# recessed lights problem



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

Boycer88 said:


> yes


For what reason?

Also, check the neutrals in the j-box, in the lights, and at the switch.


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

should the white wires be showing they have power to them? i checked the switch box and the junction box and the wires are twisted tight and have a nut on them tight


----------



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

Boycer88 said:


> should the white wires be showing they have power to them? i checked the switch box and the junction box and the wires are twisted tight and have a nut on them tight



Did you take them apart to check?


Now check the housing cans.


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

precisionbuild said:


> For what reason?
> 
> Also, check the neutrals in the j-box, in the lights, and at the switch.


i ran one wire from the panel to a junction box and then branched off there for 2 different switches


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

precisionbuild said:


> Did you take them apart to check?
> 
> 
> Now check the housing cans.


yes and i checked the first can and all the wires are good, so at least the first can should light up if the rest have bad connections right?


----------



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

Boycer88 said:


> i ran one wire from the panel to a junction box and then branched off there for 2 different switches



There was no need to branch off.

Anyhow, I bet the stranded wires in your cans is the open neutral.


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Boycer88 said:


> should the white wires be showing they have power to them? ....


No. That means you've got a bad splice somewhere. Probably there or start working back towards the panel.

Take the wire nuts off and check the physical connection between the two wires. Don't just assume that since the nut is tight, it's got a good connection.


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

precisionbuild said:


> There was no need to branch off.
> 
> Anyhow, I bet the stranded wires in your cans is the open neutral.


then how would i run the wires to to different switches across the room. ill check the stranded wire in the cans


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Boycer88 said:


> then how would i run the wires to to different switches across the room. ill check the stranded wire in the cans


My money's riding on a bad neutral connection in the j-box or panel. if it's in a light, there's no return path for the power and the voltpen wouldn't light up at the switch or j-box. Plus, an open neutral in on set of lights wouldn't affect the other set.


----------



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

480sparky said:


> My money's riding on a bad neutral connection in the j-box or panel. if it's in a light, there's no return path for the power and the voltpen wouldn't light up at the switch or j-box. Plus, an open neutral in on set of lights wouldn't affect the other set.



Mine would be, but he said he checked them. 
It's not easy doing this online...LOL!

Coulda had em working by now.


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

precisionbuild said:


> Mine would be, but he said he checked them.
> It's not easy doing this online...LOL!
> 
> Coulda had em working by now.


If I was there, yes, they'd be on by now. But I get kinda expensive doing service calls half-way across the country.


----------



## Bubbles (Sep 27, 2007)

*...*

the suspense is killing me


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

480sparky said:


> My money's riding on a bad neutral connection in the j-box or panel. if it's in a light, there's no return path for the power and the voltpen wouldn't light up at the switch or j-box. Plus, an open neutral in on set of lights wouldn't affect the other set.


just double checked everything. the neutral in the basement does not light up so i assume thats good, and the neutrals in the one switch light up but i opened them up and checked them and they look good. im lost i think im just gonna have someone come out and look at it. my head hurts from buming it running up and down the basement so many times. thanks for everything guys


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Bubbles said:


> the suspense is killing me


Here's something to occupy your spare time, then....


----------



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

You can't just leave us like this.:furious:


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Boycer88 said:


> just double checked everything. the neutral in the basement does not light up so i assume thats good, and the neutrals in the one switch light up but i opened them up and checked them and they look good. im lost i think im just gonna have someone come out and look at it. my head hurts from buming it running up and down the basement so many times. thanks for everything guys


 
Let us know what it was!


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Let us know what it was!


will do. ive been trying to troubleshoot it for 2 days now. sometimes you have to admit when your beat. cant wait till its done so i can rock the ceiling something i actually know how to do lol thanks again fellas


----------



## Bubbles (Sep 27, 2007)

*...*

I have blue balls now..


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

precisionbuild said:


> You can't just leave us like this.:furious:


if you guys wanna keep helping me ill give it another shot i dont wanna waste your time though


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Boycer88 said:


> if you guys wanna keep helping me ill give it another shot i dont wanna waste your time though


Let me see if I got this right. You took power from the panel to a j-box. You split the circuit in two at that point, taking power to two switches, then to the lights.

And NONE of the lights work?


----------



## Boycer88 (Jul 20, 2008)

8 out of 8 work. woo hoo. thanks guys you were all a big help. the 2nd can had a loose neutral and played with it and all of them came on


----------



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

Boycer88 said:


> 8 out of 8 work. woo hoo. thanks guys you were all a big help. the 2nd can had a loose neutral and played with it and all of them came on


:thumbsup::clap::clap::clap:
And let that be a reminder to all those who do leave us hanging.:furious:


----------



## Hidyusbeast (Dec 21, 2008)

Cool I knew you could do it! Btw you can easily test if a bulb is good by doing a continuity check between the 2 contacts of the bulb.


----------



## mrmike (Dec 9, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Did you take them out before you ever put a bulb in? If they're like the plastic I've always seen in them, they're way to thick to even allow a bulb to be screwed in. At least not without either busting the bulb or doing some other sort of damage.
> 
> And they're not there to prevent you from putting a bulb in. They're installed to prevent drywall texture and paint from getting in the socket between rough and trim.
> 
> Are the two that work on the same switch, or is there one on each switch?


These new Halogen Junos came with the lamps already in place with that plastic in there when you purchase them. Thats what ;issed me off. It is crazy, what are they thinking. These are the type that have 2 pins on the bottom of the lamp and they just twist in by about a half inch. Glad it worked out for "88"!!


----------



## precisionbuild (Nov 17, 2008)

I was getting frustrated for awhile tryin to chase it down, and I wasn't even running up and down the steps. There were open neutrals in more than one place...LOL!


----------



## 220/221 (Sep 29, 2007)

If you sell the house be sure and disclose that you did some electrical work yourself. I can't understand why people find it so difficult to install a wire nut properly


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

220/221 said:


> ..... I can't understand why people find it so difficult to install a wire nut properly


Mebbe they were factory-installed Wagos.


----------



## mrmike (Dec 9, 2008)

We were taught in industry to always do the pull test on your connections etc wire nuts, soldered, & crimped connections. As for wire nuts there is a new tool out which I have, & I can tell you I wouldn't be without it. You can buy it at www.licensedelectrician.com.


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

mrmike said:


> We were taught in industry to always do the pull test on your connections etc wire nuts, soldered, & crimped connections. As for wire nuts there is a new tool out which I have, & I can tell you I wouldn't be without it. You can buy it at www.licensedelectrician.com...........Mike


 
Lookls like Klein waited for the patent to expire on Smitty's Wire Nut Crank.

BTW, your link doesn't work.


----------

