# Help with stringers



## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

Let me start this with, I need some help and guidance here. I have not built any stairs or stringers or anything to do with "steps" in general. 
I have been looking online and researching, but I'd like some actual input from the pros. 
I'm not charging my friend, I'm just gonna be helping, so the experience is the monetary value here.

My friend had concrete poured in their backyard after ripping out a crapload of brick. In order to do so, the contractor pulled the old stringers and handrails off and left just the landing from the door.
I'm going to just be replacing what was taken down basically and I want to do it RIGHT, BY CODE. Please refer to the picture. I know about the maximum riser height of 7 3/4' and minimum tread of 10" as well as the need for a handrail that starts at the beginning of the first step. Anyway, I know there's more, but I don't wanna ramble. Please take a look and guide me in the proper direction. 
Thank you in advance.

PS. The numbers, just in case.. are 36", 48 3/4", 61" and 27"


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## wackman (Nov 14, 2005)

The easiest way is to go buy a book from HD or lowes. That will explain it as well as any of us can. 

That's a real easy set of stairs so you'll get it in no time. 

Tip: Remember to figure your tread thickness in the bottom step.:thumbsup:

Good luck,

Wack


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## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

Buy a book huh? Not a bad idea. LOL!! I've already collected quite a library. Maybe I will do that tomorrow.
On your tip? Could you explain a little more on that?
Thanks


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

bujaly said:


> On your tip? Could you explain a little more on that?
> Thanks


He means to subtract the thickness of your tread/step material from the height of the first riser which will be sitting on the concrete, other wise your first step will be 2" taller than the rest


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## steves (Feb 8, 2007)

Mitch,
looking at your picture you will be hard pressed to meet code w/ that landing at the bottom. I can't tell whats on the other (far) edge of it,but 27" aint big-nuff!
48-3/4" rise = 7 risers @ 6-15/16"
61" run = 6 treads @ 10-13/16" (steps would end short of pad)
65" run = 6 treads @ 10-13/16" (steps would bear 4" on pad)

Looking at the stairs on the other side of the fence, code may not matter!

Either way if you have stairs 36" wide you should have min. 36" at the landing pad.
Is it possible to run them off the side of the deck by the unit?

Good luck: Steve


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

I wouldn't know where to start there's a lot of considerations thread thickness (may be different than decking), riser thickness (will you be using the 2x on top as your riser), are you going to bring the stingers to the top or add a piece of 2x or remove the existing piece and add a larger one to mount the stringer down one step. It's not really hard but it can be confusing the firt time out, I think getting a book is a great idea. The 48-3/4" that you have needs to be the measurment from the sidewalk to the deck height and either you drop the stringers or remove it at the top depending on where you secure the stringers. Do some layouts on some graph paper and keep in mind that there is to be no variances between the rises greater than 3/8", and don't over-cut the stringers.

Here's a link to an online calculator:
http://www.inspectusa.com/calc/stairs/rise_run_stringer.htm

You could try these:
http://ez-stairs.com/index.html


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## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

Steves. No, code doesn't matter in the Baltimore area, so it seems. I was looking at all of the other steps in the area, and man, some of them were blatantly wrong according to code, even scary looking, but got the job done. The reason for this, is that some of these areas are really tight for a car to park. In this area, it's prime reality if you have somewhere other than the street to park, and especially since it's in a "Bar" neighborhood. SO, whoever puts these steps in, just does whatever they can to get a car to fit in there, and I'm talking compact cars, not sedans or trucks...

As far as putting them to the side, no. Not enough room. Actually, you could, but it would make it real hard to bring anything in that way, especially furniture or anything bulky.

And steves, the concrete goes further out, than what I had measured at 27". The area you can't see, that just happens to be where the driveway starts to downslope. The area measured is just level. Does that matter?


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## steves (Feb 8, 2007)

Mitch,
As long as the driveway isn't too steep you should be o-k.
I would go with the 4" bearing, and attach them like Mickey's 1st pic.
Don't forget to cut the thickness of the tread off the bottom of the stringer, + drop the top the same to keep the risers =
I aint smart nuff to draw like Mickey if you need to send me a PM w/ youre e-mail + I'll try to send a little sketch the old fashioned way.

Steve.


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

I would agree with the idea to buy the book... HD decks 123 helped me learn how to do stairs. Buy 1 extra 2x12 for a practice stringer and if you get it right you get to return it.


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## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

Robert!! I WAS GONNA BY 2 EXTRA!!! LOL
You must like to learn as I!! Trial & error!!!
I will be buying the book tomorrow though and reading up.

Steves, I'll send u a PM with my email..

Mickey, that first link doesn't work. I went to the website itself with just the domain name, and searched, but couldn't find it. Do I need to create an account to get to that calculator?


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

bujaly said:


> Mickey, that first link doesn't work. I went to the website itself with just the domain name, and searched, but couldn't find it. Do I need to create an account to get to that calculator?


It was working when I posted it, I tried it myself now and it's not working for me either. Here are some other links that may be helpful:


http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/framecarp/technique/stairs/outdoor.htm

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/framing-staircase.aspx

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/Framing/61672.aspx

*I have attached a staircase calculator, it's a chm file not a pdf, after downloading change the name from Staircase Calculator.pdf to Staircase Calculator.chm*


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## works4me (Sep 1, 2007)

first & very important make sure like Mickey said to find the right height, not sure if your 48 3/4 is to rock surface straight below or level pad section. With your pad out only 61" you could hold a 6' level out above the pad from the top of your deck and measure down from the level to find your actual height. If this number isn't correct your last step will be off. Also check this measurement across the pad (if it is not perfectly level) you will have to adjust the bottom step stringers to make your first step level as well.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Hello "Charm City"!
When you go to the Box to buy that book, pick up a set of stair gauges for your framing square. Empire makes a set of brass [email protected] $4-5--that will fit either steel or "fatboy" aluminum. 2nd; When you make your cuts stop your circular saw when the two sides meet, and finish off with a hand saw. Over cuts weaken the stair, and you want to maintain as much "beef" as you can. Next, the "pro way" is to lay out and cut a pattern piece first, hold it up and be sure everything works, then trace/mark the rest of your stringers from that. You also want to notch the bottom(the cut that rests on the concrete) about 3" back from the riser cut, to accept a 2X4 thrust block Spaxed or Tapconed into the concrete. A thrust block will do more to hold the stairs in place than the top attachments, and if they are open(no risers) you want to hold it back to keep it from making a toe stubber. Last you might even want to consider doubling both stringers since somebody is likely to be dragging refrigerators and such in and out that back door.
Have fun, I love stairs and there's no better way to learn than with a saw and a square in your hands.:thumbup:


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

*Stairs*

Hey Mitch-
Mickey gave you the best visual. The # 2 pic will work the best for you.

7 risers @ 7" = 49 total rise (6- 15/16" will give give you your 48 -3/4)

7 treads @ 10 1/2 " = 73-1/2" ( we use 10 -1/2 because 2 pieces of 5-1/2" decking will give you a 1" nosing with a space between each piece.

Lay out a stringer with (7)- 7" risers & (7) - 10-1/2" treads
Make your stringer come to the top of the finished deck.
Now cut the tread thickness off the bottom of the stringer. Now your 1st step is 7" finished height after you install your treads and your last step is flush to top of deck after you install your treads. BRILLIANT !!!!!!!!

TRY ONE 1ST AND USE IT AS A PATTERN
. 
RULE OF THUMB: But an extra stringer or a similar board to make a pattern with. The 1st attempt will usually need to be revised. LOL:thumbup:


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

Google "stair calculator". Here's one result:

http://www.inspectusa.com/info/calc/stairs/rise_run_stringer.htm

And pick up some brass stair buttons, (or stair gauges as one called them). They come in pairs and you fasten them to the edge of your square to make it easy to do repetitive cut outs. Somehow, I haven't lost mine yet. Really, they always turn up just when I think they're gone forever. 



Once you get the hang of it, stairs are a lot of fun to do. Until you get to 15 foot stringers, and then you get a headache from having to make the same cuts over and over and over and over and over......is this ever going to end...over and over and over and over....please let this be the last one....and over and over and over.....oh god, I just want to screw something....and over and over..................


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## BuiltByMAC (Mar 11, 2006)

Chris G said:


> ....and over and over and over.....oh god, *I just want to screw something*....and over and over..................


Man, keep your mind on your work! You're liable to cut your hand off if your mind wanders like that while you're cutting stringers!!

Mac


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## Norm Yeager (Sep 20, 2007)

Instead of buying extra 2x12s stop by an appliance store and get a couple refrigerator boxes. Cut them into 11&1/4" widths & lay your stringer out on cardboard. When you have what you think is correct cut it out with a utility knife and put it in place. Same thing works for rafters. If the box is not long enough tape two pieces together. You can make all the mistakes without costing more than a little effort. Lay out the platform and the landing in their correct relationship to one another on a deck,piece of plywood or the box laid out flat.You can add cardboard treads & risers ( in section view ) with pieces representing the thickness x width .


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Norm Yeager said:


> Instead of buying extra 2x12s stop by an appliance store and get a couple refrigerator boxes. Cut them into 11&1/4" widths & lay your stringer out on cardboard. When you have what you think is correct cut it out with a utility knife and put it in place. Same thing works for rafters. If the box is not long enough tape two pieces together. You can make all the mistakes without costing more than a little effort. Lay out the platform and the landing in their correct relationship to one another on a deck,piece of plywood or the box laid out flat.You can add cardboard treads & risers ( in section view ) with pieces representing the thickness x width .


I like the cardboard idea... I will keep that one in mind (not for stringers) but for other things that I need to template.


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## wink (Aug 2, 2006)

all great ideas, i like to draw out all my parts on my stringers before i cut, just to make sure i have tried to remember everything. another book that hd sells is called "building stairs" it's put out by taunton press, this book goes a little farther into stair building than the decks 123, it will help with your layout. stairs are one of those things you have to do a couple of times to start to understand. if you think it's a good feeling when you get done with these steps, wait till you do your first staircase for someone. take a look at some of the pics posted by Mack, some good examples for you good luck with it.


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

This assumes that 48 3/4" is correct for the z axis height measured from where the stringers land.


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