# Inside 45's



## ELM (Jan 10, 2005)

When rocking an inside 45 degree angle I started scoring the back of the board and keeping the face paper with no/little mud on the joint if I am careful. How screwed up is this and what will go wrong? I do remodelling not fulltime drywall.
Let the bashing begin.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2008)

I won't bash you on this and I've tried it before, but it won't work long haul. I thought it was a cute short cut too. But when the lumber moves, that will cause the paper to tear and leave an unsightly mess. Trim-tex makes Adjustable Inside Corner trim which I preach pretty heavily, but others will say they like a No-Coat or Strait-flex roll product. To each his own.


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## ELM (Jan 10, 2005)

I'll look those products up but I don't rock and mud but every so often and really get out of practice. Taping and finishing an inside 45 is hard for me to make it look razor straight because I don't have a hard 90 to run my knife along and I'm not an pro finisher.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

I won't bash ya either, actually I never thought of it. Question: do you use bucket mud (airdry) or setting type (chemically hardens)?


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## Tim0282 (Dec 11, 2007)

Use the No Coat and it kinda does the work for you. When you coat, stay away from the very corner and just float out the outside edge. You will be amazed how easy and straight they are.


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## Brocktologist (Sep 16, 2008)

Straight Flex is easy to find and will work. Just be sure you use taping mud or durabond. You can wait until you have the seams coated before you tape it and might help you keep it straighter. Prefill any big gaps before you tape...

BTW, you took all our fun away.:laughing:


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## ELM (Jan 10, 2005)

I have been using lightweight joint compound in a bucket for taping and finishing. I add some water and it feathers and sands easily.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

OK, the reason I asked your post reminded me of a way I watched a guy mud inside 45's. He first ran one side, let it set, then used that edge to guide his knife on the opposite side, but of course he used 45min. durabond. It sounds slow but he would do a whole room just mudding one side then go back for the other and get done pretty quick for doing it by hand.


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## A+ Texture (Sep 23, 2008)

ELM said:


> When rocking an inside 45 degree angle I started scoring the back of the board and keeping the face paper with no/little mud on the joint if I am careful. How screwed up is this and what will go wrong? I do remodelling not fulltime drywall.
> Let the bashing begin.


Let me bash you!! I really don't care for that condescending lookin eyeroll. Keep your beady little peepers outa here ya freakin jerk. Not a bad question though.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

I would go with the adjustable inside corner. The problem I have with straight flex and no coat as well as level line is they tend to peel when the framing shrinks or the trim is installed. It doesn't take much and there is no give in theses products. This is not to say you won't have a problem with AIC. Just that AIC has a little more give and won't pop or peel if installed correctly.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

use the no coat, by far the best product for the job.
J


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## muddymen (Feb 3, 2009)

Do what I do. fire tape the 45 then tell the gc to put trim up on all off angles....problem solved!
But really we all have our favorites bottom line is if house moves something has to give we just have to hope it's not the drywall but most the time it is.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2008)

Butcherman, starting to think I was the only one using AIC. Everyone else likes that roll crap here. Adjustable I/S corner NEVER, NEVER, NEVER fails.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Butcherman, starting to think I was the only one using AIC. Everyone else likes that roll crap here. Adjustable I/S corner NEVER, NEVER, NEVER fails.


Some guys don't realize that the AIC is not applied to the stressful part of the joint. No coat,straight flex and level line (even though they can help straighten an angle) do nothing for stress because it's still applied with mud. The AIC is glued on and since the stress point is not mudded it doesn't crack. Also it works like a door hinge opening and closing with settling. Tomorrow I have to redo a ceiling that was done with straight flex a year ago because its popping. I get this call all the time. I redo it with magic corner and never a problem. If cost isn't an issue there's no reason to go any other way. Trim-tex makes some of the best products. I think the guys who post against it have never used it.


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## Brocktologist (Sep 16, 2008)

I've been wondering what you two were talking about with the AIC and it looks to be the same thing as Magic Corner. Great product for ridges but I like strait flex for the ceilings to wall angle for a cleaner look.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2008)

Magic Corner was the 1st incarnation of AIC I used. The difference is Magic corner has a rubber gasket at the hinge. Great idea, right? I thought so too, but it won't take paint(yellows, poor adhesion) on the rubber. And Magic came in a roll too. Anything that starts off in a roll wants to roll back up later IMO. I use the AIC in 10's only as can be cut down and supplier only stocks the one length (also comes in 8' and 9'). I wish I had a dollar for every lf of No-coat, strait-flex, and sure-corner I've fixed in my career. And it never failed to be 18' high over a leather couch and antique table. And yes a box of roll speciality fits in the toolbox so well.... A stack of 20 AIC goes right inside that open box of CB we all carry around. Trim-tex oughta give me a commision:lol:

And there is no cleaner look than AIC. It delivers a PERFECT line every time. If it won't go on straight, it's the framing and may have to be chalk-lined and floated first, but you'll have to with any other product if the framing is that bad.

I paid $1.29 per stick for AIC yesterday. That's way cheaper than No-coat.


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## Brocktologist (Sep 16, 2008)

Good stuff, huh? I'll have to see if my local supplier will order some for me to try. 
Thanks for the clarification Darren.:thumbsup:


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2008)

Trim-tex stock #4310 for the 10' 70 pc box, #4310M for 10' 20 pc box


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

> Magic Corner was the 1st incarnation of AIC I used. The difference is Magic corner has a rubber gasket at the hinge. Great idea, right? I thought so too, but it won't take paint(yellows, poor adhesion) on the rubber.


The painters have to use a latex primer or not paint it at all. I still use this on ceilings because it's the best product on trey's and cathedrals. It's a lot more adjustable then the AIC. The trick is to Snap lines ( on the flat walls not the pitch). Staple where there are no valleys. Use EZ sand to fill the valleys under the product. Then use tite-bond to glue the edges. Then coat with EZ sand. this gives the best bond and it wont snap back. Finish with your favorite compound. I recommend two coats.



> And Magic came in a roll too. Anything that starts off in a roll wants to roll back up later IMO.


I haven't had that problem. I have seen it when you wait a day to coat it.



> I use the AIC in 10's only as can be cut down and supplier only stocks the one length (also comes in 8' and 9'). I wish I had a dollar for every lf of No-coat, strait-flex, and sure-corner I've fixed in my career. And it never failed to be 18' high over a leather couch and antique table. And yes a box of roll speciality fits in the toolbox so well.... A stack of 20 AIC goes right inside that open box of CB we all carry around. Trim-tex oughta give me a commision:lol:


Or over the most popular stairway in the house. I just spent the whole weekend fixing level line popping. Four days to do a six day job. Two hour ride each way every day. A very expensive mistake.




> And there is no cleaner look than AIC. It delivers a PERFECT line every time. If it won't go on straight, it's the framing and may have to be chalk-lined and floated first, but you'll have to with any other product if the framing is that bad.


Not always the case. Sometimes the rockers overlap the meet with their miters and screw it tight. Watch out for this. It's better to cut them open then to snap a line. But yes, sometime the framing is off.




> I paid $1.29 per stick for AIC yesterday. That's way cheaper than No-coat.


Price doesn't matter. To me this is the best product for vertical stand ups. Reason being, it stands up to stress and you don't have a gap in the base molding that magic corner leaves. Let's keep the carpenters happy.


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