# Saw-Chain Dulling Far Too Soon



## kirkdc (Feb 16, 2017)

hdavis said:


> IMO the big use for the auto sharpener is taking an abused chain and getting it useable. You can also use it to change angles for winter cutting frozen wood.
> 
> I've hit rocks, iron pins, nails, you name it. Hand filing out badly damaged teeth just isn't practical.
> 
> Hand filing, a well cared for chain will last through a lot of cutting.


Much agreed, good point. If I accidently took a big chunk out of a few cutters I'd have to take all of them down to that level otherwise I'd be cutting all wonky-like.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> When I was into some pretty heavy cutting (back when I walked barefoot in the snow), I'd take the time to touch up the chain after every tank of fuel. Double benefit: cutting like butter, and no noodle-arm syndrome.


2-3 strokes each tooth is recommended after each tank, and it's what I do, too. Cutting dirty wood, I may have to go to 4-6 strokes.

I have a Husky file set up that files the gages at the same time. Gage height makes a difference in cutting speed.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

As far as the hand sharpeners go, the bar mount seems a big time saver. 

By the time I pull the chain, and replace (not to mention the trip down to the shop, if chosen) ... stacking this onto the added advantage of a longer lasting chain, as already pointed out.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

artinall said:


> As far as the hand sharpeners go, the bar mount seems a big time saver.
> 
> By the time I pull the chain, and replace (not to mention the trip down to the shop, if chosen) ... stacking this onto the added advantage of a longer lasting chain, as already pointed out.



It's very easy, fairly quick, and is done with the chain on the saw wherever you are cutting. The big thing is getting the angles consistent. Any kind of a visual guide for getting the angles us good enough. You do have to get the right file size for your chain.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Agreed, no need for a bar mount anything unless you're physically dyslexic. Just a modicum of practice makes freehand quick & easy.


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## Peter_C (Nov 26, 2014)

I still prefer just to swap chains and get back to cutting as fast as possible, as it always seems there isn't enough daylight. Swapping a chain is very fast. 

Once an electric sharpener is setup, it will sharpen a chain at least 2/3's faster than with a hand file. When I do get around to sharpening chains I do 6-10 chains at once. Using those smaller cheesy carabiners to differentiate by color if a chain is dull or sharpened. Tossing the chains in the ultrasonic cleans them up and removes pitch.


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## XJCraver (Dec 21, 2010)

Peter_C said:


> I still prefer just to swap chains and get back to cutting as fast as possible, as it always seems there isn't enough daylight. Swapping a chain is very fast.
> 
> Once an electric sharpener is setup, it will sharpen a chain at least 2/3's faster than with a hand file. When I do get around to sharpening chains I do 6-10 chains at once. Using those smaller cheesy carabiners to differentiate by color if a chain is dull or sharpened. Tossing the chains in the ultrasonic cleans them up and removes pitch.



That's how I do it too - a half dozen chains for each saw live in the toolbox on the truck bed trailer I drag when I cut wood. If I dull one I swap it out for a sharp one, and right back to cutting. I sharpen the dull ones at the end of the day in the nice, warm shop. 

Don't forget to do them at the end of the day though. Because you'll forget that you didn't. And then you end up in the woods with a couple saws that won't cut sh!t, and you're going _back_ to the shop to do what you should've done last time before you quit. :sad:


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Tinstaafl said:


> When I was into some pretty heavy cutting (back when I walked barefoot in the snow), I'd take the time to touch up the chain after every tank of fuel. Double benefit: cutting like butter, and no noodle-arm syndrome.




Tin man,that is a very good approach. Keeping a chain sharp is easier and more productive than trying to bring back a abused one + a dull saw is like a dull knife.......more dangerous than a sharp one.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

What about the Oregon powersharp.

You press on the end of the chain bar and let it rip, sparks flying:




 
Looks like it works in about 5 seconds but does it work? Or remove huge amounts of metal? Seems it could require that special 2 hole bar.

And I see Stihl's multiple filer:


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

artinall said:


> What about the Oregon powersharp.
> 
> You press on the end of the chain bar and let it rip, sparks flying:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THLg6EgLJk8
> ...




Don't know for sure but reminds me of the kitchen gadgets that come on the late night TV commercials. The ones for $19.95 but if you order now we will throw in this,that and something else.:laughing:


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## Mike-B (Feb 11, 2015)

I don't know about the power sharp but we have a couple of those stihl file setups and the guts love them for quick touch ups. As noted, don't expect to repair an abused chain but it works great for maintaining a chain.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Peter_C (Nov 26, 2014)

XJCraver said:


> That's how I do it too - a half dozen chains for each saw live in the toolbox on the truck bed trailer I drag when I cut wood. If I dull one I swap it out for a sharp one, and right back to cutting. I sharpen the dull ones at the end of the day in the nice, warm shop.
> 
> Don't forget to do them at the end of the day though. Because you'll forget that you didn't. * And then you end up in the woods with a couple saws that won't cut sh!t, and you're going back to the shop to do what you should've done last time before you quit*. :sad:


Highly recommend always keeping a file in your tool kit for the size(s) needed. Sometimes things happen and a quick file can get you back to cutting. I think I have used a file a handful of times in the last 10 years.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Here is the video of the Granberg sharpener I previously mentioned. It may be the best of both worlds,you can take it to the woods,it is powered ,not hand and relatively inexpensive .


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## kirkdc (Feb 16, 2017)

not bad ^^


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

fjn said:


> Here is the video of the Granberg sharpener I previously mentioned...


 Great up-close vid.


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## Peter_C (Nov 26, 2014)

Most often I fully respect Wranglestars videos. In this case though he had the chain backwards in the sharpener. The tool should swing in from the front of the cut towards the back, with the stop at the rear of the teeth. He is locating the stop at the front of the teeth. Looks like a pretty cool tool, although I could see that little round stone wearing fairly quickly. For shop/garage use I would say get a 110volt unit. For a field unit it looks viable, but a file is a nice peaceful break in the quiet woods, before the saw screams again. 

As to power sharpeners and only getting a few sharpenings, someone must be over-grinding the chains as I get more than 8-10 sharpenings before I usually bend the chain, or otherwise destroy the chain, with plenty of meat still left on the teeth. (Rusted barbwire is abusive to chains and super hard to spot when clearing brush. Heck just clearing brush is hard on chains, as they often get pinched. I throw chains way to often clearing brush and keep the chain tight.)

The depth of cut does need to be adjusted every other sharpening, or so too. 





Edit: Here is a better vid showing the battery powered sharpener. It is pretty fast once set up, but without clamping the teeth I can see it wobbling. Skip to 1:40 where he shows actually sharpening.


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