# Truss Uplift Problem



## jastremski (Mar 19, 2009)

Hi folks. New to this whole on line discussion thing, so here goes. I've been a small remodeler for years, but have very little experience with new homes. I currently have a customer who just passed her second Minnesota winter in a new, rather upscale townhouse. There appears to be truss uplifting causing many cracks and a false column hanging 1/2" off a counter. The cracks were all filled (not taped) by the builder at the one year inspection, but they all reappeared. She would like me to repair the woodwork, tape the cracks, and repaint. I don't want my work to fail. I can build flex into the woodwork, but I don't know about the cracks. Does truss uplifting die down after a couple of years? Is tape strong enough to hold the cracks? Will cracks show up elsewhere? Any suggestions or insight would be appreciated. Thanks


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

Uplift is from wind loads. 

What you are describing sounds like a heat transfer issue. The wood in trusses tends to expand and contract with changes to temperature and moisture in the air in the attic. The truss plates rigidly prevent the wood members from moving individually (a good thing) so a truss can deflect under tension from such wood expansion (a bad thing)

It could be something else too. There are guys here with much truss experience who will be able to narrow down your issue and maybe provide some insight.


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## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

Unless there are cracks along an entire outside wall it's probably not due to wind uplift. As far as the column, solidly attach it to the countertop and remove most of the nail fastening it to the truss. Then heavily caulk the top of the column and trim out that joint with wood. They souldn't be able to see the gap if/when it opens up again


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## jastremski (Mar 19, 2009)

It appears I didn't use the correct terms. I don't think wind is the issue. As Wallmaxx described, its a truss movement issue. My question is will the movement from summer to winter (rather extreme in Minnesota) lessen over time. The wood columns are not a problem because I can make floating joints and cover them with molding. I'm concerned that the cracks in the sheetrock will keep coming back. I'm afraid that the sheetrock was not floated at the ceiling/partition joints.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

*truss rise*

find the screws or nails in the ceiling drywall that are within a foot or so of the walls and remove them. This will allow the ceiling drywall to lay on top of the wall drywall and float with the seasonal change in the truss lumber. The walls (or more correctly, the partitions) _should_ have been attached to the truss chords with truss clips.


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## Gyprockerman (Nov 10, 2008)

To avoid this uplift problem, first I nail up 2x2 metal to the top plate of all interior walls. Then when screwing up the ceiling I screw the metal between the trusses, and keep all other screws 16" back. And yes I believe uplift happens forever with the load on the roof. Cheers.


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## tapwall (Jun 17, 2008)

I would say use crown molding, it's tough to fix if there hasn't been preventive measures taken.


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