# Beam saw: Bigfoot vs Makita?



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

jamesdc said:


> *So really its a matter of choosing the better of the 2 saws.* Neither are great and I prefer to just roll 6x material with my 10 1/4 Bigfoot or an 8 1/4, if the cuts aren't visible. But if you need nice clean single pass cuts a beam saw is your best option.


That's the reason for the thread. :laughing:



> If your cutting miters on large lumber I'm guessing you can't do it in a single pass? If so you might want to look into a chain beam saw like the prazi or linear link. You can check out my recent thread for info on the linear link. It definitely doesn't cut as clean as a circular saw but it does pretty good with sacrificial boards for each cut, and its a hell of alot easier then cutting miters from both sides with a beam saw.


Watched that thread with much interest. :thumbsup: These particular miters are one-pass cuttable with either beam saw, and frankly it's doubtful we'd have much use for a prazi-style saw. We can use a regular chainsaw for most cuts like that.












chappellt said:


> I would say go with the Makita, Those 2 extra inches make a huge difference (one pass saves a lot of time).


That's what we're thinking; thanks. Bendable base duly noted; have seen that in other reviews. :thumbsup:


----------



## jamesdc (Aug 27, 2010)

Tinstaafl said:


> That's the reason for the thread. :laughing:


 
:laughing: OK, better suited for your own saw preferences. 

I'd go with the makita unless you can't use any other saw besides a wormdrive, like myself.

Edit: By the way, nice setup with the chainsaw :thumbsup: . Got any more pics of that job?


----------



## jiffy (Oct 21, 2007)

Makita all the way on this one. The saw is made to do this type of work. I find it not difficult to manipulate and it is fairly tame considering the size of the blade. I think it gets some odd looks, but once you start using it you will find it very useful.


----------



## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Hey Grand Pa, 

I have a couple of both saws.
Each sorta has their place.
For what you are going to do I also vote for the Makita.
Once you get used to using it, you will love it.

A little finesse, soft touch & let the saw do the work.
Don't force it.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I have used the Makita a lot and the term unmanageable can come into play:whistling I'd buy a 10 gauge cord and a good blade and keep it lubed or waxed up and they are a lot more loveable :whistling


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

griz said:


> A little finesse, soft touch &
> Don't force it.


Lubrication is the key, and be gentle:laughing:


----------



## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

^that's what she said:thumbup:


----------



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

I've had 2 of the big Makitas for over 20 years. Most of what has been said is accurate.

It's a heavy saw and does have a little kick to it. It's really slow ripping beams. We have had trouble keeping the base and blade at a true 90. We pretty much have to readjust it every time we use it. Replace the base every few years.

That said, if you have a sharp blade, it can be a huge time saver. We call ours "Jaws", for it's ability to cut your whole leg off.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I know that Makita makes good products, but isn't this what Bigfoot does?


----------



## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

CanningCustom said:


> ok so we all know i am makita fan boy over here. In this case i'd go with the bigfoot just for the reason already stated "easily controlled" if a tool with a big ass blade isnt controlled easy i see a* potential disaster*. *But that's just me*



I highlighted these for a reason we all know what you do to saws. Yah smoke em':laughing:


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Excuse the dumb tile guy but what about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224SA/


----------



## Timuhler (Mar 7, 2006)

chappellt said:


> I would say go with the Makita, Those 2 extra inches make a huge difference (one pass saves a lot of time). We have had quite a few over the years, and they are great saws (although I was partial to older all metal style) the new style is nice too.
> They will bog down if ripping full depth, but be smart and its fine. We use them to rip all our backing angles on our hip and valley rafters.
> The really nice saw was the 13" Makita, which they have stopped making. big enough to do most deep cuts you'll need and light enough to use for almost everything else. Base will get bent if it is thrown around...


Someone told me a few years back that you could buy the 13" Makita through some importer, but then then Makita stopped that :blink: Too bad I've heard that is a good saw.


----------



## Timuhler (Mar 7, 2006)

We have the 14" Big Boy saw. It works great, but you really need the "slip foot".

Also run a big gauge cord to it. 










I always make a cut with a wormdrive, then the Big Boy because that 14" blade can wobble some entering the cut.


----------



## Ninjaframer (May 28, 2011)

This is the one I got for $60. it's in excellent shape, the all metal model. I've used em for years, like everyone says if you want it to cut straight go slow.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Ninjaframer said:


> This is the one I got for $60


And thanks for rubbing it in:thumbup: Like dose it look like that new one too:blink:


----------



## Ninjaframer (May 28, 2011)

It looked pretty new. Table was good and still had the original cord with out any nicks or cuts in it. I'm allways nervous when I get something that cheap that it's stolen. I know how pissed I'd be if my tools got ripped off and soled for crack


----------



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

Ninjaframer said:


> It looked pretty new. Table was good and still had the original cord with out any nicks or cuts in it. I'm allways nervous when I get something that cheap that it's stolen. I know how pissed I'd be if my tools got ripped off and soled for crack


For $ 60, it probably was stolen. My first one was stolen, give it back.:blink:


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

jamesdc said:


> Edit: By the way, nice setup with the chainsaw :thumbsup: . Got any more pics of that job?


Thanks; I invented that. He didn't have a clue how he was going to be able to make that cut. :laughing: That was one of the porch rafters.

I don't have much of the log-chopping etc. They had the framing done before I got there, and I've been busy with the chimney, plumbing and electric.

Some rafters in place:










Here's a scaffold for Superseal's collection:



















About to open the roof:



















Lunchtime is rough.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Timuhler said:


> We have the 14" Big Boy saw. It works great, but you really need the "slip foot".


I saw that on the website, and apparently Makita doesn't offer that. Is it just a larger plate to help with stabilization, or is there more to it than that?

Regarding blade wobble, reviews indicate that the Makita has some sort of setup to help minimize that. We'll have to play it by ear if that's what we wind up getting.


----------



## neill (Sep 29, 2011)

don't own the 16-5/16 makita but have used one on pine and poplar beams. i found it easy to use, and it had no problem going through wet poplar.


----------



## Cole (Aug 27, 2004)

Tin,
Get the Makita and be done with it. Go here and order a new saw base for it as well.

Now with that said, we recently purchased a Mafell MKS130Ec and let me tell you, I hardly pick up the Makita anymore unless I am needing to cut through material that is 6" with one pass. This was our second Mafell purchase (bandsaw) and it will not be the last. There is just something about German made tools that fit my style and feel. Mafell tools are expensive but in my mind they are worth the investment.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks, Cole. I think that pretty well settles it. Can't justify a Mafell, no how, no way, but thanks for making my knees wobble. :laughing:


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I actually think mafell makes the best rail/ plunge cut saw, that you can currently buy. 

Hey tin-

They make a 26" 2 man saw. You shoul get that so I can play with it.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Hey tin-
> 
> They make a 26" 2 man saw. You shoul get that so I can play with it.


Bah. I used to use a 6' two man saw back when I was 10-12 years old.

It didn't have a motor, though...


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Find a video of it, it frightens me.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)




----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Warner would be more impressed if that was a German vehicle.


----------



## Cole (Aug 27, 2004)

http://www.mafell.com/produkte/prod_saegen_fsg240k_i.htm


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Tin, Are those prefabricated log siding corners on the dormers?


----------



## jamesdc (Aug 27, 2010)

Tinstaafl said:


> I saw that on the website, and apparently Makita doesn't offer that. Is it just a larger plate to help with stabilization, or is there more to it than that?
> 
> Regarding blade wobble, reviews indicate that the Makita has some sort of setup to help minimize that. We'll have to play it by ear if that's what we wind up getting.



The makita doesn't really need a slip foot. The Bigfoot has a large opening in the table to accommodate the 75 degree swing. Hence the need for a slip foot when trimming beams(trust me, its a little sketchy when trimming smaller 4x or 6x lumber and the saw drops slightly as the beam slips into the opening in the base)


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

TimNJ said:


> Tin, Are those prefabricated log siding corners on the dormers?


They're individual logs, but yes, they're pre-cut, thank god. :laughing:

Even though this is siding, almost every single piece needs tweaking with a planer and a knife. Compared to "normal" building, the labor is insane.


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Hate to hijack but two quick questions: How did you handle the joint from each course of the log siding? Is there a drip edge cut along the edge of the siding?


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Hijack away, I got what I wanted. :thumbsup:

You mean the butt joints? They're just trimmed neatly at 90° and butted tightly together with no other treatment. There should be very little movement lengthwise--each piece is 8' long and about 5" thick, ripped from an 8" log. The other 3" half of the rip will be used for siding on the interior.

There's no drip edge. Each piece has a smallish flat on both edges, which ensures a pretty tight fit. Caulking is applied to that joint _before_ staining--if stain is applied first, the caulk won't stick.

I'll try to remember to get some pics of that.


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

I was wondering on both long edge and butt joint. 
If you get a chance picture would be great. What are you using for the caulk?


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Some of the log mills have a profile they mill with a small lip on the bottom that will hang over the previous piece to keep water from being driven in by wind. It seems like a good idea but I wondered how practical it would be in the field. It seems like it would be easily broken off just moving the timbers around.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm familiar with that profile, but that's used on thinner siding. Though the pic doesn't do it justice, this stuff is considerably beefier. It's also going on over 1" structural foam, so even if you got water intrusion, it would only affect the logs.










I'll check on the caulk; I'm not hands-on using it, so haven't paid much attention. I do know it carries a name of "Log Caulk" or somesuch. :laughing:

Are you contemplating a similar project?


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Log home in NC. Almost every supplier I contacted said do log siding on gables and dormers and I wondered how it was to work with.
Thanks for the pics.:thumbsup:


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Siding will beat the snot out of full logs on a lot of fronts. But just to expand on what I said earlier, the faces of the butt joints will never match perfectly, because the log diameter and profile are only nominally the same. That's where you'll burn up a planer or three blending them.

If you wind up doing that job, pics are required. Log work is rarely seen on this site. :thumbsup:


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Used the Makita today.

Great saw. Had to adjust a set screw to get the base square (doesn't seem like a big deal but it took me a while to find my metric allen keys), but once I did I was cutting RS 6x10 like nothing. Never tried freehand though, screwed a chunk of 2x4 on as a saw guide and made the cuts easy.

Perfect cuts, perfectly square :thumbup: (and unlike my prazi it stays square in between cuts :laughing


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Actually if I had any complaints it would be the safety button is slightly awkward (and I don't like safeties anyway)

and I wish I could thumb the blade guard up.


----------



## Ninjaframer (May 28, 2011)

Winchester said:


> Actually if I had any complaints it would be the safety button is slightly awkward (and I don't like safeties anyway)
> 
> and I wish I could thumb the blade guard up.


I drilled a hole in the guard so I could put a nail in to keep it up. I havnt taken it apart to remove the safety button yet


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Tinstaafl said:


> If you wind up doing that job, pics are required. Log work is rarely seen on this site. :thumbsup:


Will do. I hope to break ground down there late spring or early summer. I have to get a few ducks in a row up here this winter first.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

TimNJ said:


> What are you using for the caulk?


Log Builder sealant.










Setting one of those corner pieces:




























Due to varying face profiles, not all pieces are fastened snug to the sheathing. They're tacked in the best relationship with a couple of 3" screws, and then fastened to each other and the wall studs with 10" nails.

I think I'm going to have one of these guys be my stand-in for the nailng competition.










Here's a couple of buttjoints; if you look closely you can see that the faces have been planed to match.










Some caulking pics:


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Wow! nice pictures. What method do you use for fastening? You're right, they are good size. They look like half log.


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Nevermind the fastener question. I posted before I read the captions.
As thick as those boards are, did you consider using olylogs instead of the nails?


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

TimNJ said:


> As thick as those boards are, did you consider using olylogs instead of the nails?


They're actually thicker than half-log--more like 5/8.

The entire house is a kit package from Tomahawk Log Homes. They provide all of the materials; the contractor uses whatever they send unless he wants to go out-of-pocket for something else.

We're not overjoyed with the company. Many of their material choices appear to center on making the kit price attractive at the cost of extra labor for the contractor. And there have been issues with incorrectly built trusses, shipping foulups and so forth. They even shipped ornamental interior beams on an open flatbed without so much as a tarp to protect them from weather and road grime.

I will say it's been a huge learning experience on many fronts.


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

I fought myself over that dilemma, precut from a log home company or lineal logs. I think I won the argument after tons and tons of pro and con articles and decided on lineal. Aside from the mark up on the precuts, I don't like the idea of being completely locked in on all my exterior walls with no chance of shifting a door or window here and there and ending up with an expensive pile of firewood.
It will be more labor intensive but I want to know the nitty gritty of log building anyway.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

That's actually not an issue with this kit. All of the logs (except special ornamentals) are 8' long, and within the limits of the structural engineering in the plans, we can put the openings anywhere we want.

I have no idea regarding the relative pricing of true log homes vs this kind, but I do believe this style is a winner. You wind up with the same look as full logs, but better insulation and a _world_ less hassle with running pipes and wires.

Not to mention, real logs are friggin' heavy. :laughing:


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Me and saw :laughing:


----------



## singlespeed (Oct 8, 2008)

I got one of the big Makita 16" saws from a customer who had it laying around, he had inherited it and had no idea what it was. He said "if you can use it then take it. It just sits here doing nothing but take up space." I threw in some extra work for it since I couldn't just take it for free. 

I am just reiterating what others have said but, I like having it for cutting 6x6's in one pass. The thing is a nightmare to keep the base plate square to the blade though. You really can't push that thing either, let it take it's time and it will cut. I will have to try using a straight edge guide for the base plate though, that might make life a little easier with the beast.

By the way, what kind of blades are you guys using in your saws? Mine is ready for a new one and prices and brands seem to be all over the place. 

Thanks.
Clay.


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

singlespeed said:


> By the way, what kind of blades are you guys using in your saws? Mine is ready for a new one and prices and brands seem to be all over the place.
> 
> Thanks.
> Clay.


Mine is still fresh enough that I have the stock blade in.

I have this one waiting for his turn:








(I think it was round $63 on amazon)

If I end up using it a lot more I will probably use these ($93 on amazon):


----------



## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Winchester said:


> Me and saw :laughing:


You look like a little guy next to that saw. :laughing:


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Is there an electric brake on that?


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

TimNJ said:


> Is there an electric brake on that?


yup

Makita model 5402NA


Large Cutting Capacity for Beams and Timber
Powerful 15.0 AMP motor delivers 2,200 RPM for enough power to cut through pressure treated lumber
Large capacity blade cuts 6-1/4" at 90° and 4-3/16" at 45°
Electric brake for maximum productivity
Low noise level at only 87dB for quiet operation
Blade stabilizer for stable blade rotation and superior cutting performance
Large depth control lever for convenience and secure adjustments
Weighs only 32.1 lbs. for ease of operation
Large support handle for increased operator comfort and control


----------



## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

looks like winchester should have a guitar in his hand singing some zac brown songs.. :laughing:


----------



## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

JWilliams said:


> looks like winchester should have a guitar in his hand singing some zac brown songs.. :laughing:


It's winter time, doesn't everyone have the "look"? :blink:


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Winchester said:


> If I end up using it a lot more I will probably use these ($93 on amazon):


Love the Diablos, but they do have a tendency to wander a bit. You're not concerned that would be even more pronounced with a blade that size?


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> Love the Diablos, but they do have a tendency to wander a bit. You're not concerned that would be even more pronounced with a blade that size?


Nah, more momentum or something like that... There is also a blade stabilizer thing that must do something ;-)


----------



## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

Winchester said:


> Me and saw :laughing:


You look like a 4 year old using a regular circ saw... :laughing:


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Brutus said:


> You look like a 4 year old using a regular circ saw... :laughing:


...cutting a 2x4 :laughing:


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Brutus said:


> You look like a 4 year old using a regular circ saw... :laughing:


I don't think my testicles would drop either, with that baby whirling nearby.


----------



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

Winchester said:


> yup
> 
> Makita model 5402NA
> 
> ...


Weighs only 32.1 lbs. These saws are not light. Mine's not all that quiet either. The rest of the specs are correct.

I use a Matshuda? blade, expensive.


----------



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

Another use for this big saw is cutting framing at sharp angles. We frame decks with a lot of angles. Sometimes you can't get a regular saw in there to cut the angles on the beams and joists. With this saw, we just square a line down and cut from the top.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

redwood said:


> I use a Matshuda? blade, expensive.


I like the Japanese blades too:thumbsup: they are very good with blades.


----------



## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I like the Japanese blades too:thumbsup: they are very good with blades.


You're Japanese bias..... :laughing:


----------



## jlyons (Apr 17, 2011)

i have used the makita to cut a compound angle on a facia. just set the bevel and cut the 2x6 with the saw running on the edge, a little interesting but fit great. much easier than a cut from either side and a hand saw.


----------



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

I know the op was in reference to the 16" variety but we just bought Milwaukee's 10 1/4" for cutting 4x materials and i-joists. So far with one day of use it has been great. Smooth operation and balanced pretty decent. It was almost $100 cheaper than the Makita and it came with a nice beefy steal case. Very nice to have clean one pass cuts!!


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

overanalyze said:


> I know the op was in reference to the 16" variety but we just bought Milwaukee's 10 1/4" for cutting 4x materials and i-joists. So far with one day of use it has been great.


Cool! Maybe snap a couple of pics and post a product review? :thumbsup:


----------



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Will do. Big thing I liked was it had an electric brake which is a requirement with a blade that big. Also it has a 60 degree bevel capacity! Our current project is an energy star home with i-joist roof framing so it will get put to use.:thumbsup:


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

overanalyze said:


> I know the op was in reference to the 16" variety but we just bought Milwaukee's 10 1/4" for cutting 4x materials and i-joists. So far with one day of use it has been great. Smooth operation and balanced pretty decent. It was almost $100 cheaper than the Makita and it came with a nice beefy steal case. Very nice to have clean one pass cuts!!


I might be getting the Makita 10-1/4" in a couple weeks time.

Will still be considering other brands, but chances are very good the Makita is my purchase.

Bigfoot is pretty much out of the running because I will mostly use it for cutting railing posts and I'd prefer blade-right for that.









I like how the handle looks like I have lots of places to hold, so cutting from different positions/angles would be more comfortable :thumbup:


Also, I'm willing to pay $100 more for a better designed saw, and if anyone has read a lot of my other posts, I haven't been all too pleased with Milwaukee lately.


----------



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Winchester said:


> I might be getting the Makita 10-1/4" in a couple weeks time.
> 
> Will still be considering other brands, but chances are very good the Makita is my purchase.
> 
> ...


I also wanted the blade on the right. I was almost ready to purchase the Makita and then saw the Milwaukee. I read some reviews and thought why not. I have never been a fan of either brand so I picked the cheaper one. Now I don't usually go for the cheapest but we purchased this saw just for cutting 4x headers and I joist so it has done exactly that well so far. The handle is positioned so that it it fairly balanced to make cuts...as balanced as 17 lb saw can be. Time will tell if it was a good choice and I am sure the Makita will do the job as well. We can both report back over the next couple months and see what our likes and dislikes are.


----------



## pizalm (Mar 27, 2009)

Winchester said:


> I might be getting the Makita 10-1/4" in a couple weeks time.
> 
> Will still be considering other brands, but chances are very good the Makita is my purchase.
> 
> ...


The 10 1/4 makita is a great saw, very nice to handle.

The 16" makita is great for cutting timbers as long as you watch the base, like has already been said, it can be a pain to adjust and keep square. But cutting 6" timbers in one pass is a big time saver.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Well, we found a 16" Makita for $650 and bought it last week. The guys were both in heaven and PO'd that they didn't have it months ago. :laughing: It sped up production enormously.

Sorry, no pics. I've been too busy hanging T&G inside to go out in the snow, rain and mud for that. :whistling:


----------



## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> Well, we found a 16" Makita for $650 and bought it last week. The guys were both in heaven and PO'd that they didn't have it months ago. :laughing: It sped up production enormously.
> 
> Sorry, no pics. I've been too busy hanging T&G inside to go out in the snow, rain and mud for that. :whistling:


Good stuff! :thumbup:

adjusting for bevels can be a PITA (2 man job), and blade guard is annoying as any other circular saw, but the main thing I dislike is the safety.

if those are the worst complaints I got then I say it is a great machine so far.


----------



## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

hey Tin. Those Diablo blades for the 16" cut unreal:thumbsup: The tool store guy sold me on the 24 tooth rip/combo blade. I was completely skeptical about it only having 24 teeth... best money I spent last year:thumbup:


----------



## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

I own the 16" makita .For a saw this big I want to use a guide anyhow so the blade on the right is more functional. i generally use it for topping post . I prefer setting up a scafold of some sort and always use a guide .generally use a guide with the 10" saw also .


----------



## jaydee (Mar 20, 2014)

I have the 10" skil, older version.

Nice saw , BUT, holy scared me to death at first.


----------



## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

you have a picture of that 10" skill .any comments regarding it's function .looking to upgrade from my older version milwaukee which has a base that warps easy and needs to be squared to the blade often .besides some blade/arbor shake .i am watching craiglist for an improvement .


----------



## jaydee (Mar 20, 2014)

JFM constr said:


> you have a picture of that 10" skill


You talk to me ??:detective:


----------



## Gumphri (May 17, 2014)

I prefer the 10 1/4" Makita to the 16". It is a better built machine. It has a good base and decent line of sight. It cuts 3 3/4". The only problem I have had with it is the dust chute gets clogged sometimes when ripping green wood. The TFG(Timberframers guild) used to have someone that sold a good base for the 16" makita. If you can get that and need the 6+" cutting capacity then I would say it is worth it.


----------



## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

I have Husqvarna chainsaw with a 48" bar, I would use that.


----------



## kapena (Aug 20, 2004)

KillerToiletSpider said:


> I have Husqvarna chainsaw with a 48" bar, I would use that.


I have learned to respect how much damage to framing a plumber can do with his trusty sawzall, but a plumber with his trusty 48" bar chainsaw could deliver an epic framing nightmare.


----------



## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Back in my tract days a plumber ran his pipes through the 2nd floor before framing. The framer cut all his pipes flush to the plywood. He was very pissed to say the least. Needless to say he waited up the line for the next ones.


----------



## Agility (Nov 29, 2013)

Gumphri said:


> I prefer the 10 1/4" Makita to the 16". It is a better built machine. It has a good base and decent line of sight. It cuts 3 3/4". The only problem I have had with it is the dust chute gets clogged sometimes when ripping green wood. The TFG(Timberframers guild) used to have someone that sold a good base for the 16" makita. If you can get that and need the 6+" cutting capacity then I would say it is worth it.


I agree. I'll often rather make two cuts with the 10-1/4" rather than haul out the 16", even if I'm working through a lot of timber.


----------



## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

kapena said:


> I have learned to respect how much damage to framing a plumber can do with his trusty sawzall, but a plumber with his trusty 48" bar chainsaw could deliver an epic framing nightmare.


I have a chainsaw for concrete too.


----------



## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

*milwaukee vs makita*

ordered the 10 1/4"milwaukee ,local store carried the makita .milwaukee has a 60 degree bevel and i really like front handle . but the blade/arbor can be wiggled as in has slop . does any one else own one of these new saws and does yours move ? take the edge of your blade in your fingers and see if the arbor has play .let me know .thankyou


----------



## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

sent milwaukee 10 1/4" back and got the makita . I want the accuracy . The milwaukee had arbor wiggle ,slight but to much for me . My 16" has "0" play why would a 10" need to have any.


----------



## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

A little bird told me that skil might be coming out with a 10 1/4 worm drive, anyone else heard?


----------



## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

i was told at the dealer bosch has one coming out early 2015 .worm drive 10 1/4"


----------

