# What's a tool you would recommend to another contractor?



## platinumLLC (Nov 18, 2008)

Just a fun thread, that may get expensive for some of us. 

What's something you would recommend to other contractors? Could be a tool or something on those lines. Looking for more unique things that all of us don't already have. So lets skip things like cordless drills and stuff like them that everyone on this forum probably already have multiples of. Just something you bought or even built that really impressed you or that others would probably benefit from having also.

One that I came across this year that really impressed me is the Franklin Prosensor stud finder. I've had stud finders of all shapes and sizes and they have always been hit or miss and a pain to use.But this one actually does what it's supposed to most of the time.

Another one of mine is the Ridgid stackable tool boxes. Decent price and heavy duty.


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## J L (Nov 16, 2009)

A track saw. Brand doesn't matter. If you don't have one yet you'll be amazed at how often you use one once you get it. :thumbsup:


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## jstanton (Mar 25, 2012)

wobble light, every trade we work with is amazed by how bright it is. Also, http://www.reechcraft.com/bronco/ bronco staging. It's pricey but we use it a ton more than we thought.


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## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

I don't own much in the way of fancy tools (except my makita track saw ) but I'm a huge fan of dewalt tstaks. To me it's like buying systainers for 1/4 the price. They stack easily and you can get into lower boxes like with t-loc systainers. I'm selling off my other stacking tool boxes and going all tstaks.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

A level.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Oscillating tool.


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## Defenestrate (Aug 13, 2015)

Cordless nailer(s). I love not having to lug hoses and a compressor around to shoot base for a single room or case a door.


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## SectorSecurity (Nov 26, 2013)

2 way radios no more shouting or wasting time pulling out phones and dialing numbers and waiting for an answer.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Defenestrate said:


> Cordless nailer(s). I love not having to lug hoses and a compressor around to shoot base for a single room or case a door.


I second this. I don't know why I didn't start using cordless trim nailers sooner. So convenient not dealing with a hose and compressor.


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

Rotary, line, & dot lasers. Reading a level seams to be very difficult for some people. lasers leave little room for operator error.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Glue bot

I recently started using these. Where have you been all my life...

I love the mini for carrying in my bags.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Spencer said:


> Glue bot
> 
> I recently started using these. Where have you been all my life...
> 
> I love the mini for carrying in my bags.



I use the same ones. They are nice. Get clogged at times but easy to clear out and spares are available here too so can keep them running.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Backhoe and or a Skid steer.

Articulating boom lift.

a good planer.

a good jointer.

when you think you have it all....

wide belt sander


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## Anderson (Sep 7, 2009)

Leatherman Wave

if I forget to put my Leatherman in my pocket I get pi**ed how many times I reach for it through the day.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

Not exactly earth shattering and maybe not even a tool, but I use this pretty often even with my 8' bed...



Turn it up and it carries stuff on top of the cab.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I would recommend any roofers spend the coin on an equiptor


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## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

Robie said:


> Not exactly earth shattering and maybe not even a tool, but I use this pretty often even with my 8' bed...
> 
> 
> 
> Turn it up and it carries stuff on top of the cab.


link?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

griz said:


> Backhoe and or a Skid steer.
> 
> Articulating boom lift.
> 
> ...



And a moulder and a straight line rip saw, and a 20hp dust collector and....


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## Boda (Jan 18, 2013)

A Gunook. Incredibly useful addition to your tool belt. Ive carried framing nailers, trim nailers, a corded skil saw as I climb on the roof to cut out vents, a 16" and 32" level as I climb a ladder, a sawzall, and it even holds a cordless drill nicely on the grip.

It's lasted 2+ years and still going strong. The little black plastic cap comes off but its not important or useful. I once had a framing gun on it, the gun got caught on some framing as I was climbing and it bent the hook. I bent it back and it still holds its original shape perfectly with no compromise to its strength. 

There are a lot of gun hooks out there, I have tried quite a few. This one is worth buying and its only $13


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## META (Apr 9, 2015)

These are fantastic. I bought sets for all my guys. These are something I wish I had had years ago, so cheap, fast, and you'll actually use them for ear protection. I also bought replacement buds as they get dirty over time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DZO87M/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

This


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Or this


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

jhark123 said:


> link?


Most Lowe's or Home Depot stores.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Maybe these


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

I think everyone should have the fuel 7.25. I framed this whole deck with 2.5 batteries. Zero wormdrive. It was my test deck with that saw.


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## tccoggs (Dec 17, 2008)

Couple tools that always make me smile:

Bosch Bulldog SDS hammer

Use a regular hammer drill and then this, and you will go buy one immediately. No comparison

Makita DA4031 Right Angle Drill

Put a big self feed bit on it and let it do the work

Track Saw

I have the festool, but they are all good saws. A friend of mine is a hobby woodworker and his wife got him the grizzly for xmas. Its not a bad saw for the money. I would say most contractors would be fine starting off with this saw. They have a mini version as well which could be great for certain types of installers.

Tormek Supergrind

Sharpen any hand tool to a mirror finish with minimal time and effort. Makes every chisel, hand plane, etc work like it should.

Any Latest Gen Brushless Circular saw, Milwaukee Fuel, Ridgid, Makita, etc.

In comparison to the previous generation, these are night and day improvements. Sure, brushless drills and impacts are great, but my previous generation lith-ion stuff got the job done fine.


Ridgid Stealth Force Oil Impact Driver

Latest addition to the fleet. I have very sensitive ears, and wear hearing protection all the time. This unit is a good 20db quieter than a standard impact with no sacrifice in power. I love it, especially for indoor use.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

A foam gun. Not sure why I waited so long.


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## platinumLLC (Nov 18, 2008)

VinylHanger said:


> A foam gun. Not sure why I waited so long.


I couldn't believe I waited so long also. I used to buy the cans by the case and usually only needed a quick squirt here and there and would throw the rest of the can away. The guns are great and by not throwing out the remaining foam you don't use in each can it pays for itself very fast.


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## RangoWA (Jun 25, 2014)

For a reciprocating saw this works great for most tasks and is much smaller and lighter.











I picked one of these up for about $25 at Harbor Freight. It uses a propriety saw blade but I realized the slot was about the size of a hack saw blade. I was right. I broke one in half and used it the other day replacing a bathroom heater. The old box was nailed in and had it out in seconds with this little guy.


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## jetdawg (Apr 9, 2015)

tccoggs said:


> Couple tools that always make me smile:
> 
> Bosch Bulldog SDS hammer
> 
> ...


Any particular reason you chose the ridgid over the makita oil impulse? Great recs btw.


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

platinumLLC said:


> I couldn't believe I waited so long also. I used to buy the cans by the case and usually only needed a quick squirt here and there and would throw the rest of the can away. The guns are great and by not throwing out the remaining foam you don't use in each can it pays for itself very fast.



Do you have to clean it out after every use? I've been looking at buying one, but I hate cleaning things.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

TaylorMadeCon said:


> Do you have to clean it out after every use? I've been looking at buying one, but I hate cleaning things.


You leave the can on the gun, as long as the gun is sealed the product should not cure. I've gone as long as 6 months between uses, pick the cure product off the tip, apply the foam. 

Tom


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

*What's A Tool You Would Recommend To Another Contractor?*

My Hiliti one went bad from leaving foam in it and couldn't take it apart to clean it. The OSI gun done the same but it can be stripped down. Not sure exactly what causes mine to keep curing in the gun. I do leave it for as long as 2-3months between using it at times though.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

Tools I would recommenced to other contractors

Pam Tite hot glue.

Of all the tools I could recommend I think the Ermator S 26 Vacuum is the one that has changed how I work the most.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

This is double top secret. For applying waterbased floor coatings this is the only way to fly.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

A dremel and an assortment of cheap bits from HF. They solve a lot of weird nuisance tasks. For example, I just used it cut screwdriver slots into "one-way" screws to remove a bunch of iron window grates. Piece of cake. Yes, there are other ways, but this was clean and no scratches on the iron from a recip blade....

,,,now that I think of it, I probably COULD have cut those slots with the recip blade. Doh!


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Today I went to grab my angle finder out of my veto and it was not there. I have no idea where it went. I felt naked without it. Such a pain running base or crown without one of these. Ordered another along with the cheaper model as a backup as soon as I got home.


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## carp.addict (Dec 26, 2015)

Californiadecks said:


> Maybe these


What's that vac system called that's attached to your circ saw? Always wanted one for indoor work, and do you have to buy the tools to go with it or is it an attachment?


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## META (Apr 9, 2015)

Spencer said:


> Today I went to grab my angle finder out of my veto and it was not there. I have no idea where it went. I felt naked without it. Such a pain running base or crown without one of these. Ordered another along with the cheaper model as a backup as soon as I got home.


Spencer, I just ordered this from Amazon and they sent me 3! No clue why cus the order says 1 pc. Guess I have backups now for the guys.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

META said:


> Spencer, I just ordered this from Amazon and they sent me 3! No clue why cus the order says 1 pc. Guess I have backups now for the guys.



Wow!!! Those are heirloom tools IMO. If you can keep from loosing them they will do the job for a long time. I have had my original for several years. If only I knew where it was...


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

I'll agree with the Pamtite gun. A good hot melt gun with good adhesive gives you a lot of flexibility installing millwork.

My primary recommendation would be premium quality, standard kerf, industrial saw blades for both miter and table saws. A good saw blade makes such a difference in performance that it's like using a different tool. Box stores do not sell good blades, retail woodworking stores do not sell anything but consumer grade tooling and any blade that has the word "Industrial" printed anywhere on it is usually anything but.

I'd also add a good set of calipers. You cannot set up tools accurately with a square no matter what the manual says and I have yet to see a saw come out of a box that didn't need adjustment to make it usable. It's amazing how many saws I see that are way out of whack and guys "cutting 'til it fits".


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## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

tjbnwi said:


> You leave the can on the gun, as long as the gun is sealed the product should not cure. I've gone as long as 6 months between uses, pick the cure product off the tip, apply the foam.
> 
> Tom


Yep, I keep window and door in 1, maximum expanding in another all the time. Have 2 more for spares. The control you get over the foam expanding in the tube is amazing. I clean the gun well between cans and use the spray cleaner. I would be lost without the foam guns. I have even used short pieces of tube on the end to get into hard to reach areas.


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## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

Tools:

Kapex - amazed at the accuracy of the cut and smoothness of the saw, truly a work of art IMO.

TS55 track saw - nuff said

Clam Clamps - my trim and casings haven't been tighter and better:thumbsup:

Oscillating tools, mine are Dewalt 20v and Milwaukee M12. Use the Dewalt more but I would be lost without either. I really would struggle to find ways to do things without those.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> My Hiliti one went bad from leaving foam in it and couldn't take it apart to clean it. The OSI gun done the same but it can be stripped down. Not sure exactly what causes mine to keep curing in the gun. I do leave it for as long as 2-3months between using it at times though.


The Hilti one comes apart, I took mine apart a few months ago, the valve that gets depressed by the can was seized.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> The Hilti one comes apart, I took mine apart a few months ago, the valve that gets depressed by the can was seized.



I got it took apart as far as I could. Couldn't get the nozzle off the valve body at all. Ended up destroying it. I had it in a vice with the biggest pipe wrenches I had. Gave up on it after about an hour.


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## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

-Stabila laser measure
-2p10 glue
-23 ga. Pin nailer
-rafter hooks for circ saws and framing nailers 
-an awl, I use it for way more then I thought, especially snapping a chalk line by myself
-Bosch dare devil paddle bits, with the screw tip...way better then normal paddle bits
-zero clearance inserts for table saw and miter saw


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## jetdawg (Apr 9, 2015)

Justin Huisenga said:


> I'll agree with the Pamtite gun. A good hot melt gun with good adhesive gives you a lot of flexibility installing millwork.
> 
> My primary recommendation would be premium quality, standard kerf, industrial saw blades for both miter and table saws. A good saw blade makes such a difference in performance that it's like using a different tool. Box stores do not sell good blades, retail woodworking stores do not sell anything but consumer grade tooling and any blade that has the word "Industrial" printed anywhere on it is usually anything but.
> 
> I'd also add a good set of calipers. You cannot set up tools accurately with a square no matter what the manual says and I have yet to see a saw come out of a box that didn't need adjustment to make it usable. It's amazing how many saws I see that are way out of whack and guys "cutting 'til it fits".


What blades are you using?


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

brhokel606 said:


> I have even used short pieces of tube on the end to get into hard to reach areas.


You probably already know about these but just in case...










Dow Tips

I need to get some more.


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

Have to agree with the foam gun. Works incredibly well. Had mine about 4 years now. Haven't cleaned it yet. Just go from one can to the next. I would guess the longest it has set is 2 months. Still works perfect.

Johnson stud finder. It's about $10. Has 2 strong magnets. Lightly slide it across the wall and it will pull out of your hand when it goes over a screw. Works on drywall great. Works good on thin coat plaster. Will work on old lath and plaster, but not great. It's just too thick. 

Almost forgot about the cordless grinder and cordless oscillating tool. Very handy. Cordless finish nailers are really handy as well. I haven't gotten a cordless framer, yet.


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## RangoWA (Jun 25, 2014)

Justin Huisenga said:


> My primary recommendation would be premium quality, standard kerf, industrial saw blades for both miter and table saws. A good saw blade makes such a difference in performance that it's like using a different tool. Box stores do not sell good blades, retail woodworking stores do not sell anything but consumer grade tooling and any blade that has the word "Industrial" printed anywhere on it is usually anything but.


I agree that a good blade makes a huge difference but Home Depot carries, or at least it did last I looked, the Diablo triple chip grind. It's a very good blade and seems to be on par with my Forrest. Plowed through tons of plywood, oak and even aluminum on the Jet cabinet saw.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Justin Huisenga said:


> I'll agree with the Pamtite gun. A good hot melt gun with good adhesive gives you a lot of flexibility installing millwork.
> 
> My primary recommendation would be premium quality, standard kerf, industrial saw blades for both miter and table saws. A good saw blade makes such a difference in performance that it's like using a different tool. Box stores do not sell good blades, retail woodworking stores do not sell anything but consumer grade tooling and any blade that has the word "Industrial" printed anywhere on it is usually anything but.
> 
> I'd also add a good set of calipers. You cannot set up tools accurately with a square no matter what the manual says and I have yet to see a saw come out of a box that didn't need adjustment to make it usable. It's amazing how many saws I see that are way out of whack and guys "cutting 'til it fits".


I would agree with using a speed square, but my grandfather was a machinist and have me his set of calipers along with his machinist square. I would have a problem setting up a saw with that square. But I will say I always check it with calipers.


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

RangoWA said:


> I agree that a good blade makes a huge difference but Home Depot carries, or at least it did last I looked, the Diablo triple chip grind. It's a very good blade and seems to be on par with my Forrest. Plowed through tons of plywood, oak and even aluminum on the Jet cabinet saw.


A TC grind is prefered for aluminum. It is also sometimes used for ply and laminates. The difference between NF blades and ply blades is usually the grade of carbide used. NF blades use softer but more impact resistant grades like C2. A TCG has no sharp points. All of the teeth have little bevels on the tops making it a durable grind. It isn't really comparable to a Forrest WWII blade (using your example of the table saw blade) which has an ATB grind with a 20* top angle. Two different blade types with two different functions. I'm personally not a fan of Forrest either. Not terrible blades but just about everything they make has specialty grind with very limited life. 

Diablo blades have a nickname of "Diwobblo". The plate tension is terrible. When a saw blade spins it wants to expand at the rim. The best explanation I've see of the phenomenon is a ball attached to a rubber band. As you spin it the rubber band expands and the radius of the spin increases. Saw blades do the same thing but the material between the arbor and the rim won't let it so the rim gets wavy and the blade wants to flutter. The tendency to do this is overcome by heavier plates and proper tensioning. Manufacturers of good blades tension a blade to function correctly based on the intended purpose of the blade and the rpms it's designed to function at. Flatness and tension are two different things. Freud uses a bunch of expansion slots instead of good tensioning and in doing so weakens the plate making far more prone to deflection. Anyone who owns or has owned a Freud blades has seen red paint coating a good portion of their rips or miters due to this deflection at one time or another.

Most of the Freud or Diablo blades are thin kerf or ultra thin kerf which actually make the wobble problem worse. As the rpms on the saw drop when making a cut the wobble becomes more pronounced. This is one of the reasons why I said standard kerf not thin kerf. I own a few TK blades but when the cut counts they won't be on the saw. 

Companies that supply blades to box stores aren't really concerned with quality. They are concerned with filling store shelves and warehouses. They count on the end user tossing the blade and buying a new one when it develops problems. Companies that make industrial tooling don't market outside the cabinet and millwork industries. They sell high quality blades with very long service lives to companies that demand performance for their money. I don't work at nearly the volume that these companies do but definitely value the performance and edge life I get using good tooling and recommend them to others frequently. The attached pics are of a Royce Ayr miter saw blade and an FS Tool 40T General Purpose/crosscut blade. In addition to the superior plates you get a lot more carbide which gives you more life from the blade.


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## Sisyphus (Nov 1, 2010)

jhark123 said:


> link?


http://www.extendatruck.com/ Use it for carrying the 40 ft ladder on the roof (and other things).


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

jetdawg said:


> What blades are you using?


Primarily FS Tool or Royce Ayr. I have a few Everlast blades in the mix that are pretty good. For things I don't want to use a premium blade on I use A.G.E. by Amana.


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## carp.addict (Dec 26, 2015)

So you wouldn't go zipping through nail embedded lumber with those puppies would ya!?


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## Youngin' (Sep 16, 2012)

Spencer said:


> Today I went to grab my angle finder out of my veto and it was not there. I have no idea where it went. I felt naked without it. Such a pain running base or crown without one of these. Ordered another along with the cheaper model as a backup as soon as I got home.


I gotta get me one of those.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i have the bosch digital protractor..never can figure how to use it..:sad:


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

Youngin' said:


> I gotta get me one of those.



Those are the tits!
I have the cheaper plastic model, but it works great.


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## jetdawg (Apr 9, 2015)

Justin Huisenga said:


> Primarily FS Tool or Royce Ayr. I have a few Everlast blades in the mix that are pretty good. For things I don't want to use a premium blade on I use A.G.E. by Amana.


My sharpener was talking about royce for production work and he had some fine blades I handled at his shop. He mentioned amana as being the best readily available blade (not age series though) and age/cmt as pretty good blades. He had no comment on diablo :lol:


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

jetdawg said:


> My sharpener was talking about royce for production work and he had some fine blades I handled at his shop. He mentioned amana as being the best readily available blade (not age series though) and age/cmt as pretty good blades. He had no comment on diablo :lol:


The sharpener I use has lots of comments on Freud and Diablo. None of them would make it past the censors. 

Amana blades aren't bad. A.G.E. is a company they purchased. For the price they are decent. The plates are miles better than anything Freud puts out.


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## Agility (Nov 29, 2013)

I have a lot of the same answers that have been going around: track saw, OMT, dust extractor. 

I'm hoping this will be something I'll start recommending. Haven't ever used one yet but I've always hated the way guys around here just cram whatever lumber or chunk of ice is nearby under the ladder so it'll stand upright. I'm fine with heights and taking risks - used to be a rock climber - but for some reason I've never liked ladders. Maybe this will make things a little safer:


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

an inconspicuous place to write down passwords to different accounts... :jester:Yeah thats a great tool.


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## Jswills76 (Nov 12, 2012)

I'd recommend a Starrett spring loaded center punch. I know we have all bought more of the Empire ones from home Depot then we can count. They don't last. Same with combo squares. The Starrett's are worth every penny


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Agility said:


> I have a lot of the same answers that have been going around: track saw, OMT, dust extractor.
> 
> I'm hoping this will be something I'll start recommending. Haven't ever used one yet but I've always hated the way guys around here just cram whatever lumber or chunk of ice is nearby under the ladder so it'll stand upright. I'm fine with heights and taking risks - used to be a rock climber - but for some reason I've never liked ladders. Maybe this will make things a little safer:
> 
> View attachment 260634


Stabilizers and ladder mitts are a great way to improve safety as well.


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## Lettusbee (May 8, 2010)

Ladder mitts? We always called em ladder condoms. You're verbage is definitely more Homeowner friendly.


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## RangoWA (Jun 25, 2014)

Agility said:


> I have a lot of the same answers that have been going around: track saw, OMT, dust extractor.
> 
> I'm hoping this will be something I'll start recommending. Haven't ever used one yet but I've always hated the way guys around here just cram whatever lumber or chunk of ice is nearby under the ladder so it'll stand upright. I'm fine with heights and taking risks - used to be a rock climber - but for some reason I've never liked ladders. Maybe this will make things a little safer:
> 
> View attachment 260634


I have one and it's a huge benefit. Very quick and easy to use once set up. Replaced my stack of wood blocks....:whistling


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Agility said:


> I have a lot of the same answers that have been going around: track saw, OMT, dust extractor.
> 
> I'm hoping this will be something I'll start recommending. Haven't ever used one yet but I've always hated the way guys around here just cram whatever lumber or chunk of ice is nearby under the ladder so it'll stand upright. I'm fine with heights and taking risks - used to be a rock climber - but for some reason I've never liked ladders. Maybe this will make things a little safer:
> 
> View attachment 260634


I have those on all my ladders. Problem is they still don't help me get excited to climb the damn ladder.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Lettusbee said:


> Ladder mitts? We always called em ladder condoms. You're verbage is definitely more Homeowner friendly.


If I would have known they were ladder condoms I would have put them on my 2 footer and that would have stopped the multiplying.


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

avenge said:


> If I would have known they were ladder condoms I would have put them on my 2 footer and that would have stopped the multiplying.



I know right! What do you call a large gathering of ladders? A litter of ladders? Herd? Pride? School? I'd say just a cluster phuk. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Defenestrate (Aug 13, 2015)

Jswills76 said:


> I'd recommend a Starrett spring loaded center punch. I know we have all bought more of the Empire ones from home Depot then we can count. They don't last. Same with combo squares. The Starrett's are worth every penny


Agree that those are a thing of beauty. I got the 18C, which might possibly hit too hard (though you can dial it back), so maybe I shoulda gotten the 18A.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

A broom .


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

blacktop said:


> A broom .



I like a dustpan to go with it.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

A cement mixer. I don't get to use mine to often, but when I do, it is a back saver.


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## platinumLLC (Nov 18, 2008)

VinylHanger said:


> A cement mixer. I don't get to use mine to often, but when I do, it is a back saver.


What is his name? :jester:

I agree with the mixer. I got sick of mixing a while back and went out and bought a harbor freight mixer. For 160 or so dollars I paid after the 20% off coupon it has paid for itself many many many times over. It's just a cheap one but it gets the job done and I don't have a sore back at the end of the day. Well worth it. I doubt it would last being used everyday but for those of us that only use it maybe a dozen times a year and it's fine.


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## Jswills76 (Nov 12, 2012)

Defenestrate said:


> Agree that those are a thing of beauty. I got the 18C, which might possibly hit too hard (though you can dial it back), so maybe I shoulda gotten the 18A.


I use the 18AA


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

These were indispensable when I was doing crown alone.

Andy.


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## Obi Wan Cannoli (Dec 30, 2014)




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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

True Position Hardware Jig. This thing saves so much time on cabinet hardware


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## mgcain12 (Dec 30, 2015)

I would vote for the track saw, a worksharp sharpening system, and a good set of Lie-Nielsen planes and chisels....


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

100% for the track saw. Every time I use it, it fills me with glee.
Also a good quality hammer drill is worth every penny. For the longest time I thought drilling holes in concrete was almost impossible, because I was using a cordless "hammer drill" or the crappy box store special.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> Listen son, I'm pretty much an expert at this you're not. The drill bits I use are the best on the market for drilling through steel buckets. I gaurantee you, you haven't drilled close to as many buckets I have. As usual you're full of ****. I live in seismic country, I've worked on framing hundreds of homes, every hardware guy worth his salt uses the big boy drill. Cordless for drilling 5/8" buckets are for sissies.



Well clearly they ain't are they. I have drilled hundreds of holes in a row with 1-3/8 self feed bits on cordless dewalts let alone the Brushless Makitas. 

Most recent was about 250-300 holes for a manifold system in a basement that supplied a kitchen and 5 bathrooms and a garage. All 1-3/8 holes and all done one after each other. 

So yes it can be done with a cordless.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Californiadecks said:


> I suppose if I dabbled in the decking industry like sissies do, I'd probably use a cordless to drill buckets too. :laughing:


You have a Fuel cordless Hole Hawg yet?


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Here's an example of a home my company framed. I'd throw you to the curb if you attempted to drill all those buckets with a cordless.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

BCConstruction said:


> Well clearly they ain't are they. I have drilled hundreds of holes in a row with 1-3/8 self feed bits on cordless dewalts let alone the Brushless Makitas.
> 
> Most recent was about 250-300 holes for a manifold system in a basement that supplied a kitchen and 5 bathrooms and a garage. All 1-3/8 holes and all done one after each other.
> 
> So yes it can be done with a cordless.


I'm sure you could, but why? I don't know an electrician or plumber that I work with who drills with anything other than a Hole Hawg. Just more efficient.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

EricBrancard said:


> You have a Fuel cordless Hole Hawg yet?


I would use that one for what I do. 

But a twist bit bogs down much easier than a ship auger. A twist bit fills up fast and has a tendency to bog. It's a different animal. A ship auger cleans itself a lot more efficiently. Apples and oranges.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

EricBrancard said:


> You have a Fuel cordless Hole Hawg yet?


In fact Eric that's on my list.


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## GregB (Jan 8, 2016)

Cordless are all wimpy compared to corded drills of Milwaukee's high end lines like the Magnums. I have Milwaukee 1/4" 0-4000rpm, 3/8" 0-2500rpm, and 1/2" 0-950 rpm in daily use. 

I tried out their new Fuel Super Hawg and it is impressive for a cordless but to say it is equal to their corded Super Hawg, no. The Fuel Hole Hawg is claimed to be the equal of the corded Hole Hawg in the above video. Again, it is impressive for cordless but NOT equal. Super Hawg draws 15 amps, same as my Milwaukee 6" Straight Grinder, roughly a 1.5hp hand held bench grinder.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> I would use that one for what I do.
> 
> But a twist bit bogs down much easier than a ship auger. A twist bit fills up fast and has a tendency to bog. It's a different animal. A ship auger cleans itself a lot more efficiently. Apples and oranges.


The do, but at that point you pull back and clear them out. If you keep clearing the bit they use a fraction of the power that an auger bit uses.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Now if we talking 2"+ self feed bits then my Dewalt comes out. My cordless would def burn up with them bits after than many holes. 5/8th could be done on high speed with the cordless.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

The pitch in Doug fir can be very gummy as well.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> The pitch in Doug fir can be very gummy as well.


We don't see it that often, it's all spruce, you pay a big premium for DF.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> The do, but at that point you pull back and clear them out. If you keep clearing the bit they use a fraction of the power that an auger bit uses.



That's how I drill the deck bolts through the 6x6's. Drill on high and start cutting when drill starts to slow pull back clear bit then plunge again and in through.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Now if we talking 2"+ self feed bits then my Dewalt comes out. My cordless would def burn up with them bits after than many holes. 5/8th could be done on high speed with the cordless.


I did the CVAC in a house with nothing but a 2-9/16 self feeding bit and my 20v DeWalt. Wasn't ideal but I didn't want to drive to take my generator off another site.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Inner10 said:


> I did the CVAC in a house with nothing but a 2-9/16 self feeding bit and my 20v DeWalt. Wasn't ideal but I didn't want to drive to take my generator off another site.


That hole hawg almost caught fire. I'm ok with not using up my smaller drills.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

We don't see Doug fir here either it's mainly SYP.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

GregB said:


> Cordless are all wimpy compared to corded drills of Milwaukee's high end lines like the Magnums. I have Milwaukee 1/4" 0-4000rpm, 3/8" 0-2500rpm, and 1/2" 0-950 rpm in daily use.
> 
> I tried out their new Fuel Super Hawg and it is impressive for a cordless but to say it is equal to their corded Super Hawg, no. The Fuel Hole Hawg is claimed to be the equal of the corded Hole Hawg in the above video. Again, it is impressive for cordless but NOT equal. Super Hawg draws 15 amps, same as my Milwaukee 6" Straight Grinder, roughly a 1.5hp hand held bench grinder.


I'm tempted to buy one, the hole hawg is the only too I lug the generator around for.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Milwaukee has a policy that they will fix the drill no matter what's wrong with it and the price tops out at 120 bucks no matter what they replace. They completely rebuilt that one it was that bad.


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## BBuild (Oct 10, 2012)

Man, this is the thread that just keeps on giving. First the great blade debate now bits. The OP is probably heading for the hills.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

BBuild said:


> Man, this is the thread that just keeps on giving. First the great blade debate now bits. The OP is probably heading for the hills.


Those 5/8 twists I use are about 40 bucks a peice. I Probably have 20 of them. I also sharpen them myself. Right on a grinder with a cup of water to keep it cool. Trick is to never let it get too hot.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Edit: they are 50 bucks. Great bits!


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Huttobhsc said:


> Sharphog for sharpening dull oscillating blades



Shameless plug!


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## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

BCConstruction said:


> Shameless plug!


Yeah, first post in CT and its a "hey look at this " basically.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

Miter saw works great, but it is just too big and heavy. Circular saw works great, but it can kick and the blade is big and expensive and obnoxious to install. Reciprocating saw is great, but it isn't pretty. Oscilating tool is great, but they are painfully slow and the blades cost a fortune. 

I'm going with my jig saw. Most people think they are just for making occasional curved cuts. I had a little 2.5 amp one for 7 years and I hardly ever used it at all. But if you get one with some decent power and orbital action, it suddenly turns into a really useful power tool! I cut landscape timbers with no problem. 

- compact and doesn't take up much room
- light weight
- doesn't kick and feels much safer
- doesn't require a heavy extension cord
- very easy to change blade
- all kinds of different blades available 
- cut metal, wood, laminate, tile, pvc, plexiglas, whatever
- blades are cheaper than pretty much anything
- cuts straight up and down and you can stop exactly where you want. Unlike a circular saw where you have to cut past your mark due to the radius of the blade.


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## platinumLLC (Nov 18, 2008)

SectorSecurity said:


> You all have such big ego's can't you all just find a small corner and stroke each others ego?
> 
> Why is it lately everything turns into a pissing match?


I'm not really sure why you quoted my post saying I have a big ego? All I said was instead of running for the hills I was just sitting back reading the posts and I knew where to look when I need info on saw blades and drill bits I know where to read.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

A coping foot for jig saw.
Miter clamps.


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## Huttobhsc (Jan 14, 2016)

BCConstruction said:


> Shameless plug!


Joined the other day. Just thought I would throw my two cents in. Saves me money on blades, I can sharpen blades 5-6 times before it turns in to a paint scraper. I think the guy who makes em is from Roanoke


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

Huttobhsc said:


> Joined the other day. Just thought I would throw my two cents in. Saves me money on blades, I can sharpen blades 5-6 times before it turns in to a paint scraper. I think the guy who makes em is from Roanoke



Now this is something useful! Never heard of it. I have SOOO many dull blades it ain't funny. Going shopping in 5, 4, 3, 2, .....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

Oh god... It's pay pal only account. Now I've got to try to remember where and how to use pay pal again... Never was fond if it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Builders Inc. said:


> Oh god... It's pay pal only account. Now I've got to try to remember where and how to use pay pal again... Never was fond if it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can use a cc on PayPal without signing into your PP account.


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

Justin Huisenga said:


> If you take a few minutes and set up a dial indicator you can set the blade in relationship to the arbor so that the runout is either canceled out or minimized even on a portable saw. The combined run out of blade and arbor on the saw pictured is .002 read at the rim. With a little practise I've gotten it down to a 10 min process.


Your gonna have to show a video, I have no clue what your talking about...


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## platinumLLC (Nov 18, 2008)

Builders Inc. said:


> Now this is something useful! Never heard of it. I have SOOO many dull blades it ain't funny. Going shopping in 5, 4, 3, 2, .....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm trying to figure out how a few cut off discs on a shaft can sharpen a blade with new teeth? Seems like it would just make a bunch of grooves in the blade and wouldn't cut that good. Most of my cuts with a multitool need to be clean so a good blade that doesn't just naw it's way through is a must. The rest of my cuts are in stuff like drywall where pretty much any blade will work.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

platinumLLC said:


> I'm trying to figure out how a few cut off discs on a shaft can sharpen a blade with new teeth? Seems like it would just make a bunch of grooves in the blade and wouldn't cut that good. Most of my cuts with a multitool need to be clean so a good blade that doesn't just naw it's way through is a must. The rest of my cuts are in stuff like drywall where pretty much any blade will work.



I have sharpened old blades with cut off wheels to cut drywall but now the carbide blades available I have not had to sharpen them anymore. They just don't wear down.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I have read on the Festool thread guys can't live without a rotex sander. I don't have one but have recently been thinking about one for stripping finishes or restoring surfaces quickly.


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

platinumLLC said:


> I'm trying to figure out how a few cut off discs on a shaft can sharpen a blade with new teeth? Seems like it would just make a bunch of grooves in the blade and wouldn't cut that good. Most of my cuts with a multitool need to be clean so a good blade that doesn't just naw it's way through is a must. The rest of my cuts are in stuff like drywall where pretty much any blade will work.



Well for only 30 bucks i figure i'd give it a try. If its junk y'all will know soon enough...


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

Builders Inc. said:


> Your gonna have to show a video, I have no clue what your talking about...


No video but I changed the blade and took pictures.

Every tool and every blade has some degree of runout. Nothing is perfect. What you are doing is changing the orientation of the blade to the arbor/arbor bushing so that the runout is minimized or canceled out. Set the dial indicator on sheet of something ferrous. Set the height of the feeler point towards the outside rim but far enough inboard that it doesn't hit the expansion slots. Preload the indicator by pushing it into the blade, engage the magnet, and zero out the dial. 

Turn the blade by hand a little bit at a time stopping to let the dial settle and watch how much the pointer moves. I have found that turning the blade the opposites direction it rotates when cutting bounces the least. I also know a guy who pulls the belt cover off the saw and rotates the blade by moving the belt.

To adjust turn the blade and push the blade lock until it engages. My saws engage in two positions. It is important that you engage the lock in the same spot every time. For reference I draw a vertical line on the arbor nut with an arrow pointing down and mark a witness mark on the blade in pencil. Loosen the arbor nut and rotate the blade without moving the arbor/washer/bushing about an 1/8 turn. Lock it down, zero the dial indicator, and spin the blade by hand again. Repeat the process ,rotating the blade but not the arbor, until the amount the indicator reads off is either zero or the smallest amount you've read off that blade on that saw. I've never gotten it to an exact zero. It is usually off by .001 to .003 by the time I'm done depending on the blade. 

The best I could get that saw with that blade is a combined arbor/blade runout of .003. I check and adjust this whenever I tune up a saw or whenever I change the blade at home. I don't carry the indicator with me. It takes about 10 minutes after you become familiar with the process. 

It's a picky OCD adjustment but when done I know my saw is cutting the best it possibly can.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Justin Huisenga said:


> No video but I changed the blade and took pictures.
> It's a picky OCD adjustment but when done I know my saw is cutting the best it possibly can.


Justin, a tip of my hat to you, Brother :thumbsup:

:whistling Won't air those techniques out in public. Web or in person. Too much BS always follows. 

Glad you took the time to detail it out! 

:laughing: And it's not OCD it's CDO (alphabetical order) to those truley affected :thumbsup:


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## Sisyphus (Nov 1, 2010)

Justin Huisenga said:


> .... I've never gotten it to an exact zero. It is usually off by .001 to .003 by the time I'm done depending on the blade.


What runout are you typically finding before you make your adjustments?


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

Sisyphus said:


> What runout are you typically finding before you make your adjustments?


On that one the variation above and below 0 was around .008. Still a pretty small number but like I said it's a picky and OCD adjustment.

On that blade I got a .003 only for a couple inches with the rest of the blade hovering between 0 and .001. That tells me that the runout is pretty much canceled out but the blade might have a high spot that could use some hammering next time I send it to the sharpener. The blade is one of Royce Ayr's ProLine blades. Factory spec's on those are .004 out of flat max.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Justin Huisenga said:


> No video but I changed the blade and took pictures.
> 
> Every tool and every blade has some degree of runout. Nothing is perfect. What you are doing is changing the orientation of the blade to the arbor/arbor bushing so that the runout is minimized or canceled out. Set the dial indicator on sheet of something ferrous. Set the height of the feeler point towards the outside rim but far enough inboard that it doesn't hit the expansion slots. Preload the indicator by pushing it into the blade, engage the magnet, and zero out the dial.
> 
> ...


I applaud the effort, but we're finishing houses, not building jet aircraft parts...:laughing:


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

m1911 said:


> I applaud the effort, but we're finishing houses, not building jet aircraft parts...:laughing:


Ya, I agree it's picky. That adjustment is a pretty quick and easy one. Chasing square is a bit tougher.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Justin Huisenga said:


> Ya, I agree it's picky. That adjustment is a pretty quick and easy one. Chasing square is a bit tougher.


And if you want to keep it square, don't leave your saw on the job site overnight, only to come back the next day to find the framers or plumers were cutting 2x blocking with it...


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

m1911 said:


> And if you want to keep it square, don't leave your saw on the job site overnight, only to come back the next day to find the framers or plumers were cutting 2x blocking with it...


There's a hole in the trigger. If I leave it set up I put a padlock through it. Started doing it after I showed up one morning and found a 45* kerf in one of my fences. 

Another trick to keeping the saw square is to not lock the miter into a detent when you transport it. If it's in a detent and it takes a bump when you move it it can knock the detent plate off.


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## Joemack1 (Oct 5, 2013)

Also don't carry the saw by the handle. Pick it up by the base


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Another guy on my jobsite dropped his miter saw down the stairs earlier this week. It stopped right before the front door. Felt bad for him. He missed a step on the way down and decided it was either let the saw go, or go with the saw. Good old dewalt...he went right back to work with it.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

The nice thing about the kapex is that is has the "fast fix" knob that locks the blade. When I think there is a chance someone else will use it I just turn that knob. No one has a clue how to make the saw work again. 

I walked in the door once this summer in the morning to find masons cutting blocking out of old 2x that was covered in mud and concrete...


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Spencer said:


> The nice thing about the kapex is that is has the "fast fix" knob that locks the blade. When I think there is a chance someone else will use it I just turn that knob. No one has a clue how to make the saw work again.
> 
> 
> 
> I walked in the door once this summer in the morning to find masons cutting blocking out of old 2x that was covered in mud and concrete...



Yeah that in combo with head lock and the safety makes it impossible for most people to figure out.


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## META (Apr 9, 2015)

Spencer said:


> The nice thing about the kapex is that is has the "fast fix" knob that locks the blade. When I think there is a chance someone else will use it I just turn that knob. No one has a clue how to make the saw work again.
> 
> I walked in the door once this summer in the morning to find masons cutting blocking out of old 2x that was covered in mud and concrete...


This would be in the things to hate thread. I don't even let my guys cut dimensional lumber with my good blades.


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

Spencer said:


> The nice thing about the kapex is that is has the "fast fix" knob that locks the blade. When I think there is a chance someone else will use it I just turn that knob. No one has a clue how to make the saw work again.
> 
> 
> 
> I walked in the door once this summer in the morning to find masons cutting blocking out of old 2x that was covered in mud and concrete...



Ohhhhhh I would absolutely lose it on them.
I came in to find the painter using my DAP to fill the casing holes the other day. I had a hard time getting over that $5 tube of caulking, so I can't imagine what I'd do with a Kapex.
The worst part is that used 1 squirt of the stuff and put it away because he didn't like how it spread.


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## Youngin' (Sep 16, 2012)

When I was just starting out I didn't make much money so tools were hard to come by. I bought a Cali Framer and I was pretty proud of it. Found a mason bashing nails out of scrap with it. He overstruck and hit the wood handle. A lot. Asshat wrecked my new hammer.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Justin Huisenga said:


> There's a hole in the trigger. If I leave it set up I put a padlock through it. Started doing it after I showed up one morning and found a 45* kerf in one of my fences.
> 
> Another trick to keeping the saw square is to not lock the miter into a detent when you transport it. If it's in a detent and it takes a bump when you move it it can knock the detent plate off.


You're right, you can use a padlock on the trigger.
I don't risk it anymore, if I go to lunch or for materials, I lock the head down and put a bicycle locking cable thru the handle and lock it to the stand. Especially if the plumbers are around, I hate when they think it's OK to cut pipes and nail-embedded blocking with my $150 blade.


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## madmax718 (Dec 7, 2012)

GregB said:


> Wow, Amazon is almost $100 more than they were at my local tool supplier during their fall sale. I'm sure it was $149 for bare tool.
> 
> I'm sure some people are going to be upset when I say that the pile of Bosch Lboxxes #1 & #2 were $14.88 & $19.88


Ya. You can count me as one of those upset!!!


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## madmax718 (Dec 7, 2012)

BCConstruction said:


> I have sharpened old blades with cut off wheels to cut drywall but now the carbide blades available I have not had to sharpen them anymore. They just don't wear down.


I got a pic somewhere, I was cutting some metal access panels to clear something else, and used a bosch carbide oscillating blade. That thing just wore a grove. Was a little dissapointed given the rave reviews on toolguyd.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

madmax718 said:


> I got a pic somewhere, I was cutting some metal access panels to clear something else, and used a bosch carbide oscillating blade. That thing just wore a grove. Was a little dissapointed given the rave reviews on toolguyd.



I have not tried it on steel yet. Guess I won't be


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## madmax718 (Dec 7, 2012)

BCConstruction said:


> I have not tried it on steel yet. Guess I won't be


In their review they showed it cutting a lot of nails without issue. Either I had the toughest steel panel (it was pretty tough- it was not a flimsy stamped steel panel), or I was just very unfortunate. I will not be purchasing them again once Im through with the pack that I have. A cut off wheel was more appropriate, I was just being lazy and didn't want to run out to the truck for another tool.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

TaylorMadeAB said:


> Ohhhhhh I would absolutely lose it on them.
> I came in to find the painter using my DAP to fill the casing holes the other day. I had a hard time getting over that $5 tube of caulking, so I can't imagine what I'd do with a Kapex.
> The worst part is that used 1 squirt of the stuff and put it away because he didn't like how it spread.


Why was he using caulking to fill holes?


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

EricBrancard said:


> Why was he using caulking to fill holes?


I'm guessing since he didn't have any caulking, he didn't have spackling either...:blink:


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## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

EricBrancard said:


> Why was he using caulking to fill holes?


I have seen it many times, why I have no idea. Pain to get smooth after some knuckle head spread it all around, always have had to dig it out, sand and fill correctly.


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

There were a couple questions about the back-up cameras. It was a few pages ago, but this thread has been busy I guess.

I just got a basic, wireless back-up camera. Peak is the brand. Camera goes on the license plate, then connects to the back-up light wire. In the cab, the monitor plugs into the cigarette lighter. It works great.

I don't have one for the trailer, but the Peak monitor has 2 settings. If I get another camera I can view both cameras on the same screen. I think I would have to push a button to switch cameras.

It would also be possible to wire it into a continuously hot wire so there was always a picture. By hooking into the back-up light wire, there is only a picture when the truck is in reverse.

Works great and was under $100.


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## going_commando (Feb 19, 2013)

I love my peak backup camera too. I have it on my van, and it makes backing up from angled parking a breeze compared to the old back up slow and pray. Picked it up for $70 on sale at Napa.


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## Britchippy (Aug 6, 2015)

I'd definitely recommend a laser range finder I use the Leica D510 it's a top notch bit of kit- 200m range, cross hair on the display for when you can't see the red dot, area and volume, running measurements but the best bit is the phone app which allows you to "draw" a mock up on your phone. I'd also highly recommend a plunge saw- a very versatile tool, personally I have the Dewalt as it doesn't lose as much power in the 110v version as the Festool I use one side of the track with a fine blade for fine work such as doors, flooring and worktops and the other side with a coarse blade for ply when doing formwork. It's great for doing a large run of doors on price work as you can trim the bottom of the door in situ with the Dewalt.


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