# Damage to Customers Home



## icsbill (Nov 3, 2009)

Taking a pole. About 3 months ago I installed 5" base and apparently hit a copper line with my finish nailer. So apparently the brad had rotted off in the pipe and the water sprayed into the basement. The plumber charged them them 375.00 to cut the hole and make the repair. This accident was a shot in the dark, no negligence was involved but I'm feeling I should flip the bill since its propably not worth it to file a claim. Input is appreciated.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

It's a slippery slope, because "I believe" if you cover the costs you legally assume responsibility and in so doing, may actually remove your insurance company from the equation. This could have detrimental consequences if another issues arise such as mold, etc., etc.

You may want to talk to an attorney, or at least write something up that indemnifies you, i.e., holds you harmless for future damages.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Sounds like a decent plumber as far as price... Keep his number.
You should foot the bill, doesn't sound like enough for a claim. Throw it in your expense and make a note to your accountant that it was a screw up :laughing: :thumbup:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

You should foot the bill. Next time find studs. If you nailed into studs only and hit a line with no nail plate then its not your fault because code dictates the use of nail plates.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> You should foot the bill. Next time find studs. If you nailed into studs only and hit a line with no nail plate then its not your fault because code dictates the use of nail plates.


Second that, and only use the nail size that is necessary for the job.


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## icsbill (Nov 3, 2009)

There was no nail plate and the pipe came up thru the bottom plate. So yes I was shooting into the bottom plate but after seeing the repair the finish nail went thru the plate a just caught the pipe .


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## CarpenterRN (Dec 3, 2009)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> If you nailed into studs only and hit a line with no nail plate then its not your fault because code dictates the use of nail plates.


That was my thought as well. I haven't seen this happen very often, but when I have it's usually due to no nail plate and/or the pipe too close to the face of the stud/back of drywall.

Add: My plumber did a repair a while back like that. It took 20 years for the leak to develop as this nail was put into the pipe during the original construction.


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## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

Well, well, well, you tapped into the well! We have done this on a few occasions over the years. Almost always with 5-1/4 or larger base. The code in our area (Joisey) changed recently to require all nailing plates to be larger -5" rather than the old 2" or 3"- The problem was that we would shoot into the stud about 41/2" up and because the plate didnt extend up that high....-within a few weeks -PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSST. Almost all of the occurrences were on new construction jobs where the builder was kind enough to realize that we were not at fault and took care of it (we returned to fix trim that was removed fro free-) 
The worst one required the a large portion of the hardwood floor as well as plumbing, sheerock and paint to be repaired and the jerk of a builder back-charged everyone involved-i.e- split the entire cost between the plumber, trimmer (us), and the sheet-rocker. I know it makes no sense, that's why he's a jerk..
If you are on a private job and are the main contractor, you should foot the cost- but beware of future mold issues!


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Why are you using 2 1/2" nails when 1 1/2 or 2" would suffice. You are only holding on trim. Just like when I go into an 18th century home and see trim applied with a 20D nail. Ya, the trim is 1 1/4" thick, but hey...it's only trim.


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## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

Leo G said:


> Why are you using 2 1/2" nails when 1 1/2 or 2" would suffice. You are only holding on trim. Just like when I go into an 18th century home and see trim applied with a 20D nail. Ya, the trim is 1 1/4" thick, but hey...it's only trim.


I agree- the right size nail for the right job. I tell my guys this all of the time (but they dont always listen) 

I didnt see the original poster say how long a nail he used-and depending on how the close to the front of the wall the pipe was it might not have mattered.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Just making a blanket statement. Most guys putting up trim use 2 1/2" nails as far as I have seen. I am guilty of it at times, it can be a pain to keep swapping over to use the correct size.


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

I do my trim one step at a time, it's one sweep through the whole room with the gun. This way I only change fastener sizes between stages. If it's more than a days work, I'll run multiple guns on seperate hoses.


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## BC Carpenter (Dec 28, 2010)

Sounds like it wasn't a big deal in the end, better than having to rip the basement apart.

I think with liability insurance a 1000 dollar deductable is standard, that was my deductable for a vehicle break in.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Leo G said:


> Just making a blanket statement. Most guys putting up trim use 2 1/2" nails as far as I have seen. I am guilty of it at times, it can be a pain to keep swapping over to use the correct size.


Leo,
Because they lazy to switch nails. They install doors using 2 1/2" then they run trim using the same, instead of changing to 1 1/2-2" and as we all know in most cases the pipe is 1 1/2" in and anything less then that will have a plate over it...


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## EricTheHandyman (Jan 29, 2008)

Talk to your insurance agent and let him/her know what happened. We had a similar incident a few years ago, my agent made a note of it for his records without filing a claim just in case it turned into something bigger down the line, I paid to fix the issue, and everybody was happy.


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## Wayfarer Doors (Feb 2, 2010)

*right size nail*

ok then. What is the right size nail? Do you have a formula?
Thinking it's the same as drywall screws, about 3/4 to 1" into stud?


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

It solely depends on what you are nailing up.

For trim I believe 1" penetration into the stud is more than sufficient.


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## TarahGruber (Jan 3, 2012)

If they are willing to take $375, I would recommend paying them as soon as possible and having them sign off on a settlement. This could save you from it potentially turn into a larger claim.


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## Stewy (Nov 11, 2007)

Leo G said:


> It solely depends on what you are nailing up.
> 
> For trim I believe 1" penetration into the stud is more than sufficient.


I agree, and if the plumbers and electricians are doing their part you have nothing to worry about.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

TarahGruber said:


> If they are willing to take $375, I would recommend paying them as soon as possible *and having them sign off on a settlement.* This could save you from it potentially turn into a larger claim.


*Important step*


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