# Looking for suggestions on closing up a walk out basement



## kwasley (Jul 17, 2019)

Hi everyone, long time lurker first post.

been scratching my head on how to tackle this one. 

Looking to fill in this space, close up the door but keep the window. I've been thinking of a couple of options:

Option 1: 
- Remove outside block wall and stairs entirely.
- Fill in door with block/rebar. 
- Apply foundation wrap
- Tie in/replace weeping tile in that area
- fill in with gravel/soil, add window wells


Option 2:
- Knock down outside block wall just below grade
- Fill in door with block/rebar
- Remove stairs
- Apply foundation wrap where stairs were
- What do i do about drainage/weepers? 


Questions:
- Would the original weeping tile be located under the stairs or would it go around the stairs/outside wall? 
- Whats the best way to waterproof this? 
- Is there a better way?
- Should I add rebar?

Thanks in advance!


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## Stunt Carpenter (Dec 31, 2011)

kwasley said:


> Hi everyone, long time lurker first post.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Why do you want to close up the door? Isn’t a basement door a value add to the house?


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Stunt Carpenter said:


> Why do you want to close up the door? Isn’t a basement door a value add to the house?


Nobody responded to his previous thread:
https://www.contractortalk.com/f62/closing-up-walk-out-basement-420451/


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

hdavis said:


> Nobody responded to his previous thread:
> https://www.contractortalk.com/f62/closing-up-walk-out-basement-420451/


Everyone still trying to figure out which option to suggest...Or the answer to his 4 questions. 

But since he been a long time lurker since July/2019, and he, being a GC and he can't figure this out, this must be a complicated dilemma which takes time to break it down and find the best solution ... 
But I'm sure by Christmas someone will come up with something and find the best answer... After all, we are all professionals here :thumbsup:


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

greg24k said:


> But I'm sure by Christmas someone will come up with something


or it will be resurrected in 7 years with someone providing valuable insight lol


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## fourcornerhome (Feb 19, 2008)

AustinDB said:


> or it will be resurrected in 7 years with someone providing valuable insight lol


We should have new technology by then...


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Frame it in, adding area to the left for an upstairs enterence, landing at 8" above grade,
install matching window, replace left window with 15 lite door, add window.

Or E inclose with glass porch windows, cantilever roof over window walls. act as air lock.

Closing basement door realy lowers utility of basement space, resale value burner.


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## kwasley (Jul 17, 2019)

thanks for the replies....



Fouthgeneration said:


> Frame it in, adding area to the left for an upstairs enterence, landing at 8" above grade,
> install matching window, replace left window with 15 lite door, add window.
> 
> Or E inclose with glass porch windows, cantilever roof over window walls. act as air lock.
> ...


Adding a second story to the house. walkout is in a bad area where a future back entrance will be. 




hdavis said:


> Nobody responded to his previous thread:
> https://www.contractortalk.com/f62/closing-up-walk-out-basement-420451/


yeah shame, so i figured i'd try in the masonry channel. 



cedarboarder said:


> https://youtu.be/3Z9yK3sMDUU
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk





Stunt Carpenter said:


> Why do you want to close up the door? Isn’t a basement door a value add to the house?


it often does add value but just doesn't fit with the new plans as its in an awkward spot where a new main floor door will be placed.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

kwasley said:


> thanks for the replies....
> 
> *Adding a second story to the house. walkout is in a bad area where a future back entrance will be. *
> 
> ...


Invariably (real word look it up) it seems, 1st time poster launches with a long post that has many words, little relevant info.

Said poster gets frustrated, regulars have some fun. poster disappears.

So here we are, over a month since post #1 and finally learn that a 2nd story is being added, which of course defines what the objective actually is.


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## kwasley (Jul 17, 2019)

SmallTownGuy said:


> kwasley said:
> 
> 
> > thanks for the replies....
> ...



Ha yes yes we are? 😉

I can't edit the original post but it could've been simplified to the following:

Closing up this walk out basement as second floor addition is in the plans which will render the walkout less-useful and it doesn't fit into the new plans as a back door will be installed right where the opening is. 

How would you go about tackling the project of closing this up?


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Most value is to dig a basement under the 2 story addition that will minimize MEP intrusions into the upper floors. And keep TWO exits so basement is legally habitable by teenagers/ Mother in Law? Nanny?
Man/ Woman Cave.

Consider A cloths chute or installing a 2cd floor Washer and Dryer in a larger walk in closet. Hauling laundry up and down stairs is SILLY.

Maybe even lower the additions basement floor ~ 8" and use clear span wood I-beams or trusses to create high value full width rooms (Full size pool table) TV room/theater? Hot tub and or wet and or dry Sauna Rooms. wine cellar, food pantry....gun vault(s) (always two vaults, one for registered weapons, the other for off paper weapons )
If the clients are in their later years, a elevator chase/ temporary closet might prove very handy in a few years..... As an up sell.

You could "straddle" the stairway with a "Texas Porch" void under the new roof and addition footprint isolated from the actual existing basement. Lots of heat loss / gain exterior walls though.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

This is a pretty basic question. Just do some vert. steel, some pins on the side, pour as high as you can.

In mass we simply tar foundations, so anything beyond that would be better.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Derating all the existing basement space is very poor planning, And will Lower resale value forever...

Maybe a cantilevered second floor for larger rooms or closet's then the old footprint allowed?

Floor plan wise, I ALWAYS start with the stairwells/ entryway, that usually forces the direction of the floor system joists, You're probably stuck with 2 x 10-12" joists, but 24"/19.2 c to c 2x4 trusses(I push for 1.25" sub-floors) are very MEP friendly, and result in lower total home costs, better quality.

basement use long J hooks A Bolts, galvanized, under the top bar, consider a 3 or 4" thick sill plate for wind loads/ stronger anchor bolt connections, Super washer plates to further develop AB strength. at little cost. with a few extra wind shear anchors at large opening jambs
At least 2" high density foam board with tin panel or hardiplank cover above grade to plate if you don't add on to the existing brick veneer. use a water table trim detail here to adjust for the crooked concrete pours.... to make sure the sheathing is proud of the basement ashlar face+ foam and cover...
Vapour barrier under slab, and I'd include the spread footers now, keyway on spread footers for either poured or CMU walls.

Gravity tile system, or sump pits with a back system (generator, batteries city water driven pumps) Lots of washed rock inside and out over tiles. risers to window wells/clean outs. external pilasters/piers on any wall longer then 14' even bumping out one form panel 2-4" OUTWARDS, to preserve the straight walls inside....


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