# Where to seam?



## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

I have a basement I'm framing and hanging board with 9' ceilings.

I don't want to use 54" board because the HO is painting the joists rather than finishing the ceiling, so I won't have anything to finish tape o.

I'm going to use 48" board, but I'm not decided if I want to put the filler piece at the top, middle, or bottom.

I'm thinking about cutting a 3' piece for the top, 48" in middle, the.n a 2' at the bottom so I have all factory joints.

Any ideas that would work better?


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Why not 54" board?

The time it will save you....:thumbsup:

If you are that stubborn to use 48" board......:no:

at least put the joint in the middle so you don't have to bend down or stretch to finish it....:thumbup::thumbup::clap:


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Get 10' and go vertical. I am not understanding why you don't want 54".


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## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

The HO is painting the joists, no finished ceiling so there will be a tapered edge at the top that I don't think the taper will appreciate trying to mud it without having a ceiling of any type above it. 

That's why I don't want to use 54" board, I'd rather have a flat cut edge against the bottom of the joists


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

The taper won't give a chit....


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

WilsonRMDL said:


> The HO is painting the joists, no finished ceiling so there will be a tapered edge at the top that I don't think the taper will appreciate trying to mud it without having a ceiling of any type above it.
> 
> That's why I don't want to use 54" board, I'd rather have a flat cut edge against the bottom of the joists


Nobody ever thinks of the taper when they build why start now?


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## CScalf (Dec 18, 2008)

What griz said:thumbup:


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

The homeowner may not appreciate the jagged edge of a cut sheet. If you are really worried about the taper, tack some strips of aluminum coil or cardboard up to the joists before you hang and the butt the the board to it. Let the finisher do his job and mud the taper flat. After he sands, pull the coil or cardboard and your good.


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## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

overanalyze said:


> The homeowner may not appreciate the jagged edge of a cut sheet. If you are really worried about the taper, tack some strips of aluminum coil or cardboard up to the joists before you hang and the butt the the board to it. Let the finisher do his job and mud the taper flat. After he sands, pull the coil or cardboard and your good.


Good point, I'm going to call a supplier tomorrow and try to order some 54" board, not sure how much more it costs but should save a lot of time


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

WilsonRMDL said:


> Good point, I'm going to call a supplier tomorrow and try to order some 54" board, not sure how much more it costs but should save a lot of time


He will still have to fill the recess I believe. Also can't you just block between the joists and butt to that?


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## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

I figure ill put a piece of laminate or something thin against the bottom of the joists and he can run his knife against that, If it becomes an issue ill tape it myself I guess


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

You will be good. That's an easy joint to mud. Any finisher worth his salt will do this with no complaints.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

WilsonRMDL said:


> I figure ill put a piece of laminate or something thin against the bottom of the joists and he can run his knife against that, If it becomes an issue ill tape it myself I guess


I once did a restaurant where the walls were drywall & the ceiling joists open.

Put a piece of 1x2 on the joists & finish the rock to that...

Came out very clean...:thumbsup:


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

We have done a couple of basements with the ceilings sprayed. One was a 9' but we only ran the board up 8'. The top of the board had recycled wood trim and then the upper portions of the studs were painted with the ceiling. On another one we installed a very small crown up against the ceiling joists. Griz has a good solution as well! Just present several options to the client and let them choose.


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## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

You mean Griz' idea about putting the filler in the middle?


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

WilsonRMDL said:


> You mean Griz' idea about putting the filler in the middle?


I think he meant the 1x2.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

griz said:


> I think he meant the 1x2.


Yep the 1x2! Clean and crisp!


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

We just finished a house with a bunch of exposed beams and a 3/8 reveal between all t&g cedar cielings where wallboard meets, archi specd out either a J or an L. We went with an L and it came out sweet, Trim Tex is what we used and theres a nice edge to run knife along.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

You should be able to get 9' boards and stand them up on end. Satisfies both problems. You get your 4' board width and you get a square flat top near the ceiling without having to fill it.

I got 9'ers when I did my spray room.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Leo G said:


> You should be able to get 9' boards and stand them up on end. Satisfies both problems. You get your 4' board width and you get a square flat top near the ceiling without having to fill it.
> 
> I got 9'ers when I did my spray room.


Also your taper will like it because there's no butt joints. However "railroading"(standing the sheets up) is not allowed here accept on metal studs. We do it all the time and I've never had a problem.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

No matter which way you hang the board you need to use ''zip bead'' on all the tops. If you go the zip bead route, make sure you leave a 1/4'' gap to install it.......... A lot of work.

Or run a 1x2 trim piece like some said.......... A lot of work

Or have a ''cut edge'' up top. Rip off 8'' on the top. 48'' on the bottom and your rip in the middle. It's not that hard to have a clean cut edge up top...........minimal work.

We don't have 54'' board readily available hear.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

WilsonRMDL said:


> The HO is painting the joists, no finished ceiling so there will be a tapered edge at the top that I don't think the taper will appreciate trying to mud it without having a ceiling of any type above it.
> 
> That's why I don't want to use 54" board, I'd rather have a flat cut edge against the bottom of the joists


 use 9' board and put your j channel on as you hang,,, now the taper is happy or put the bellyband in the middle and still use the j on top. Trimtex j and some spray glue,, done


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

its far faster to run on your stilts and fill the bevel......54" is the only way to fly...why cause yourself more work by cutting down sheets..dont recreate the wheel...use what we have and either fill the top bevel or use tear away or L edge. Simple


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

If you are going with belly band and your walls are 1/2" make your belly band 3/8" or you will have large hump to deal with.


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## Eric K (Nov 24, 2005)

If big shoe talking about what I'm going to say hes calling it zip bead. I call it tear away bead. It should go anywhere where drywall butts up to another surface that's "finished" (ie. concrete columns, metal corners, your joists, drop ceiling tile) keeps a nice straight clean line. I would never leave the raw edge of board exposed. Especially up against beams. I will bet you $100.00 that at least one sheet gets jammed by a beam and gets a little blow out.


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

get 10' board and stand it up. (vertical). a 1 man deal.


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## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

Going with 10' board vertical with tear away on top, 54" was a lot more than just getting 10s and cutting them down a ft


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

WilsonRMDL said:


> Going with 10' board vertical with tear away on top, 54" was a lot more than just getting 10s and cutting them down a ft


Sounds like a plan. You'll be fine going that direction.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Eric K said:


> If big shoe talking about what I'm going to say hes calling it zip bead. I call it tear away bead. It should go anywhere where drywall butts up to another surface that's "finished" (ie. concrete columns, metal corners, your joists, drop ceiling tile) keeps a nice straight clean line. I would never leave the raw edge of board exposed. Especially up against beams. I will bet you $100.00 that at least one sheet gets jammed by a beam and gets a little blow out.


We call it "L metal" out here


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Not sure about "zip" but the tear away "j" is vinyl not metal. But I would use the J on top for the finished look.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Put tear away on the top.

9' verticle or if you can get them down there, 2- 54" horizontal..


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## Jdub2083 (Dec 18, 2011)

I went through the same thing here http://www.contractortalk.com/f49/pros-cons-vertical-install-128254/
After speaking with our mud man he wanted us to go horizontal and put the filler at the ceiling. I wanted to get 54's but at $34 / sheet no thanks.


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## 11678 (Jan 11, 2007)

5 will get you 10 the joists are not all in a straight line.
What are you doing where they are parallel to the wall?


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

ToolNut said:


> If you are going with belly band and your walls are 1/2" make your belly band 3/8" or you will have large hump to deal with.


I do the samething. :thumbup:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Hey Mix..........Do you get any 54'' board up your way? I've never seen it here.


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