# Lath and Plaster Cutting



## kburk (Aug 26, 2008)

Hey New here So Hello for starters. Nice site :thumbsup:
A bit of a question for you guys. I have a job coming up that we bid last year to remove 6" baseboard moldings and cut the lath and plaster behind the baseboard. We are remove it so the Electrical contractor can run wires around the suites in the building, and install new plugs and switches. There upgrading the building wiring to 100amp per suite. So I was planning on getting my guys to cut the lath and plaster with grinders with dust covers that hook up to vacuums. The people are staying in the suites. So we have to watch the dust and clean up. Any Ideas on this?? We are also fixing and mess the Electrical contractor makes and reinstalling the base board. Oh ya its 6500lnft of cutting and baseboard
We are also using 2800lnft crown molding to hide the main wire runs in the common hallways to. 

Just on another note the plaster has a cardboard or heavy paper over the surface too. So tell me what you think how would you do it? Thanks!!


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

kburk---You better forget about the grinders--I've never tried that-but the dust will be ridiculous.

Not to mention the lead paint every where,

I always use a Sawsall-still a mess but controllable with a big vacuum. Try the search button --there was a post not long ago about plaster cutting--someone had a link to a special blade for the sawsall.

By the way the covering for the plaster is usually canvas, that's good for you!

Pulling the base molding off without damaging the plaster will be a challenge.
I saw a restoration guy that used a couple of automotive slide hammers--he had square binding plates
with a stud sticking out of the center.

He screwed the plate to the molding--attached the slide hammer to the stud--wham-wham 

Trim pulled straight out--no pry bar--fun to watch.

---Mike---P.S. fill out your profile and location--Welcome.

Also check out the post about the new EPA regulations regarding lead.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Def don't use a grinder. The dust will be unreal and def uncontrollable unless you have a very powerful extraction unit. A jigsaw with the correct blade in can work pretty fast and you can cut the blade down so you only cut the depth of the plaster and lath. Still will have dust but no where near as much. Ridgid make a cement board saw that has an extraction system. I ain't read any reviews but it might be perfect for what your doing. Put a cement board blade in there and cut away.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R3400-Fuego-Saw/EN/index.htm










Connect a powerful vacuum to that and have a dust extractor right next to where your working and you might catch 95% of the dust.


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## kburk (Aug 26, 2008)

*Lath and Plaster*

Hey thanks for the response guy's

Ya I figured grinders would be a big mess I was hopping the dust covers would work. I like both of your Ideas. I think we will give them a try
We don't run in to a lot of the Lath and plaster mostly in residential around Vancouver. But we mostly do commercial and strata based work. I will look at the post tonight and see if I can find the blades for the sawsall. I like the skill saw idea also it would be fast and my guys know how to use both sawsalls and skillsaws.

Thanks 
Keith


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## EricTheHandyman (Jan 29, 2008)

Diamond blade on an angle grinder works great, but you HAVE to have a dust cover with bottom and a powerful HEPA vac hooked up to it, or you'll have a dust storm. We use this method and it captures virtually all of the dust.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

If it is the orginal baseboards, I bet there is not any plaster behind it.

Usually a piece of lath at the top of the base and one near the bottom.
Used purely as shims. Most were trimmed out first and then plastered up to the trim.

I really like the slide hammer idea.

One more thing to watch out for, sometimes long runs of base went behind partition walls and were notched to accept base from the other direction.


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## bob_cntrctr (Jan 30, 2008)

Many vintages of lathe & plaster have asbetos in the plaster. Has anyone tested it? The answer may radically alter what should be done and how much it should cost, especially if people are remaining while the work is done.

Also, old plaster can be quite brittle - careful even with a sawzall - I recently had to re-drywall an entire kitchen wall when the plaster basically fell off the lathe when I tried to cut a slice out of the middle wth a sawzall.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Don't cut holes with a recip-saw, ever in lath. It bounces too much.


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## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

Wire or wood lath? 
If wood and your only cutting behind the baseboard. After you pull base cap, locate a horizontal slot between the lath use a plaster sawzall blade through plaster. Clear off plaster then pull the lath you need too.

If your cutting through vertically/ perpendicular to the lath, cutting tight to a stud reduces the bounce.

Securely screwing a piece of strapping(1x) on the cut line will help keep the plaster and lath in place.

With either wood or metal, just have plenty of blades


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## bodean614 (Jan 15, 2010)

*cutting lathe*

In my several times dealing with this situation the lath runs horizontial
I would score at the top of base and it should break at the top of lath then just raise the base a 1/4 and use a shoe. I would not cut with saw or grinder way to much dust


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## kburk (Aug 26, 2008)

*Cutting lath*

Thanks again for the response. All good info. We have had both the paint and concrete tested for lead and asbestos but no Asbestos, it is to old they said and yes the paint has lead. I have taken one base board off and unfortunately there was lath and plaster behind. I also know it is wood lath.
At this point. I think I'm going to try the Ridgid saw. I do have grinders with dust covers and bottom plates so I will give this a shot to:blink:. I do like the Idea of the sawsall for the corners and tight up against the walls. But I'm hopping to find the special blades for plaster. Really I'm willing to try it all we have 30 suites and just over 6500ln feet so I have a few to try out I will let you know when we get started next month what works


Thanks Keith


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

*Dust free remodeling_____________*

You are new to this site and may not have found this helpful posting.
Dust-Free Remodeling - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum 


I warn you the thread is many pages long-----But worth the time----

Many suggestions for dust extractors,including some home made ones.

Lots of good stuff--your biggest time waster will be clean up on this job-

There are several antique plaster experts on this site,also.
I can't spell worth a damn --however -look for a post about an 1893 theater-

I'm sorry a won't insult any body here by misspelling their names.

Good luck--Make money--Mike--


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## kburk (Aug 26, 2008)

Mike thanks for the link. We use Zip wall and drop cloths but the negative pressure is a really good Idea. If I can cut the clean up time in half I would be happy. I have put in for a labor every day on site just to clean. Just depends on who pisses me of 


Thanks oh and Ya we will make money! that's the point right :thumbup:

Keith


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I would use a axe do it all by hand cut it out, should take two guys one day.:thumbsup:


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

KBURK--Frankawitz is one of the plaster experts that I couldn't spell----

To bad he's so far away--That's one set of hands that I'd sure welcome on a job like this--Mike--


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Hey Mike like I say you can call me anything just not late for dinner:laughing:


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## DuMass (Feb 6, 2008)

Just a thought… what about maybe using a plaster groover like the Metabo 00119?
The specs say the depth of cut can be set up to 1-3/16", so that should be able to get you an outline cut down to the lath, then just use a reciprosaw to cut the wood lath and remove the inner plaster/lath in one or more larger chunks.
The groover has a shroud over the blade and a built in vacuum port, so if you use it with a large shop-vac and a fine-dust/drywall filter, maybe this could possibly help keep the dust on the jobsite down to a more manageable level.
I know that Colonial Tools [www.blackbookoftools.com] sells them, but you might be able to find a good used one on ebay, if you want to go that route.
Porter Cable has the 1509FR groover, which is also marketed under the Flex brand name, but it doesn’t look like it is as beefy as the Metabo.
I think Wodack made a plaster groover years ago, but I don’t know if they are even around anymore. Anyway, just a thought.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

This is a easy job, If you use your axe cut just below the top edge of baseboards the plaster will fall off the wood lath then you come back with a flat bar and pry off woodlath and nails, all those saws are gonna do is make a Dust storm and then you'll have asbestoes flying every where. do the simple job using a axe, why make a big mess:whistling good luck:thumbsup:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Frankawitz said:


> This is a easy job, If you use your axe cut just below the top edge of baseboards the plaster will fall off the wood lath then you come back with a flat bar and pry off woodlath and nails, all those saws are gonna do is make a Dust storm and then you'll have asbestoes flying every where. do the simple job using a axe, why make a big mess:whistling good luck:thumbsup:


 
I agree 100% :clap:


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## kburk (Aug 26, 2008)

Frankawitz,



> This is a easy job, If you use your axe cut just below the top edge of baseboards the plaster will fall off the wood lath then you come back with a flat bar and pry off woodlath and nails, all those saws are gonna do is make a Dust storm and then you'll have asbestoes flying every where. do the simple job using a axe, why make a big mess:whistling good luck:thumbsup:


OK I'm listening :clap: not dust no mus I'm all for that!!!
How would you cut holes for panels 2'x3' and holes for quick boxes(plug and switch boxes)

Thanks for the help guys again!!


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Kburk, take a drill a spade bit and drill 4 holes where the boxes are going to be installed, then use a chissel and tap it to cut the plaster, then use a utility knife and cut the wood lath, it will take a few cuts with the knife just keep your blade sharp, then use the electrical boxes with the metal tabs that clap to the wood lath. Like I said it will take a little more time but it will be less of a dust storm. Good luck:thumbsup:


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## kburk (Aug 26, 2008)

Frank, I'm all for taking time to do it right and especially if it cuts on the clean up. Its a pain in the ass on a job like this one!!
I do jobs of this size all the time but not with lath and plaster. Just the little thing can cost time and kill a job like this. All the walls
are covered in canvas I'm hoping this will be a good thing not bad at the end of the day. I will have to match some of the canvas 
I'm sure and that is one thing about plaster I have never done! I have some experience. but more is always better I find


by the way nice work on the theater!! Your a real pro!!


thanks
Keith


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

Frankawitz said:


> Kburk, take a drill a spade bit and drill 4 holes where the boxes are going to be installed, then use a chissel and tap it to cut the plaster, then use a utility knife and cut the wood lath, it will take a few cuts with the knife just keep your blade sharp, then use the electrical boxes with the metal tabs that clap to the wood lath. Like I said it will take a little more time but it will be less of a dust storm. Good luck:thumbsup:


Ditto on that. Don't try to remove the plaster and lathe in one step. First the plaster, then the lathe. Saws create a lot of vibration too, which can break the plaster keys loose from the lathe a foot away.


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