# Screw size



## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

It's my fault, I should of checked the rafter layout, but hell I didn't see it and just assumed 24centers.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Yes. The 24-3/4" is a clue that it might not be.


I will straight edge the ceiling and use cardboard shim strips where needed. :thumbsup:


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> It's my fault, I should of checked the rafter layout, but hell I didn't see it and just assumed 24centers.


When I remodeled my kitchen I looked outside and saw rafter tails on 24" centers....


When I went inside to fur the ceiling for insulation I found that the rafters were on 16" centers....

Who'd have thunk it....:laughing::no::clap::whistling


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

griz said:


> When I remodeled my kitchen I looked outside and saw rafter tails on 24" centers....
> 
> When I went inside to fur the ceiling for insulation I found that the rafters were on 16" centers....
> 
> Who'd have thunk it....:laughing::no::clap::whistling


I'm trying to make since of that but can't. Did they head out all the tails to change the layout? We've done that with false tails where we wanted 4x corbels but can't recall doing it for 2x rafter tails.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

1 5/8" all the way. No glue. I used to, but seems to really be no need.


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## kambrooks (Apr 24, 2012)

Yeah. 1 5/8", only the ceiling gets glue here.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

What?????? I guess I've been doing it wrong my whole life. :blink:

I never was on a job that required 1-5/8 screws. And they are a lot harder to put in than 1-1/4. Nearly 1'' penetration with 1-1/4 course thread into framing.

I've demoed enough drywall to assure you all that 1-1/4 screws do not come loose or fall out.:no: 

No code I ever knew of that required it. That's crazy.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

I use to hang drafts upon drafts of 5/8 in the union..

Never once saw a 1 1/4 screw.

Rule of thumb for me...

5/8 rock 1 5/8 screw

1/2 rock 1 1/4 screw

Double 5/8 rock 2" + screw

25 ga metal - fine point hi lo screw.

20 ga metal - self tapers or fine thread sharpys.

16&18 ga - self tappers.

Wood - coarse thread.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Rich D. said:


> I use to hang drafts upon drafts of 5/8 in the union..
> 
> Never once saw a 1 1/4 screw.
> 
> ...


Yup!


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

Rich D. said:


> I use to hang drafts upon drafts of 5/8 in the union..
> 
> Never once saw a 1 1/4 screw.
> 
> ...


Your going to have to explain this one because it makes no sense to me.

If its a metal stud you would have 5/8 in the stud with a 1 1/4 screw. Whats the dif of 5/8 in the stud and 1" in the stud Nothing. The only way you could change the holding power is by changing the diameter of the screw not the length.

Now wood is a little diferent because its multiple threads , more threads more holding power. but if you ever demo drywall you know the screws stay and the drywall pulls off.

buy 1 1/4 screws because
its recomended by usg for 5/8 board
there cheaper
and roll faster off the fingers for screwing.
double layer 5/8 use 1 5/8 screws


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

detroit687 said:


> Your going to have to explain this one because it makes no sense to me.
> 
> If its a metal stud you would have 5/8 in the stud with a 1 1/4 screw. Whats the dif of 5/8 in the stud and 1" in the stud Nothing. The only way you could change the holding power is by changing the diameter of the screw not the length.
> 
> ...


I was taught what Rich posted. 

I also believe it's the recommended specs by the GA, but I'd have to check the book.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Here's what I found from the code book

Screws shall be long enough for the full-diameter portion to penetrate into wood framing not less than 5/8 inch and through metal framing not less than 1/4 inch

So 1-1/4" should be fine for 5/8. Do we have a consensus?


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Californiadecks said:


> Here's what I found from the code book
> 
> Screws shall be long enough for the full-diameter portion to penetrate into wood framing not less than 5/8 inch and through metal framing not less than 1/4 inch
> 
> So 1-1/4" should be fine for 5/8. Do we have a consensus?


Works for me! :thumbsup:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I just Googled screws for 5/8'' board. I was shocked to see so much about 1-5/8'' screws. I still think that's nuts.

USG recommends 1-1/4 screws on their website. Thank God. So I think I've been doing it right all these yrs.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Cant believe were arguing bout screw length? Its high school all over :laughing:

All i kno is 1 5/8 screws are the standard around here..

But i never used 1 5/8 for double rock.. thsts nuts imo 

Dont be cheap guys... :laughing:


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Ok heres a good question.. whats everyones screw spacing? :laughing:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I always use 2" screws for double layers.

Right, wrong, who knows? 

Just don't use anything less than 1-1/4 for 5/8" board


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

with insulation and poly on wood framing 1 1/4 are too short for 5/8 rock, some say its OK but they dont know what theyre talking about. In order to get your rock sucked down tight and less likely to pop ( screws) use 1 5/8 screws. Double layer is either 1 7/8 or 2",, not any shorter. On steel 1 1/4 will work for 5/8 as long as nothing is on the steel


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Big Shoe said:


> I always use 2" screws for double layers.
> 
> Right, wrong, who knows?
> 
> Just don't use anything less than 1-1/4 for 5/8" board


Yes. I have a job comming up with double layer of 5/8 with green glue in between.. i ordered a 50lb box of 2 3/8" :thumbsup:

Sometimes your at the mercy of what your supplier has...


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Rich D. said:


> Ok heres a good question.. whats everyones screw spacing? :laughing:


 3 in the field on walls , 4 for 54" board. 4 in the field on heavy insulated lids


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

iDAHOchris said:


> with insulation and poly on wood framing 1 1/4 are too short for 5/8 rock, some say its OK but they dont know what theyre talking about. In order to get your rock sucked down tight and less likely to pop ( screws) use 1 5/8 screws. Double layer is either 1 7/8 or 2",, not any shorter. On steel 1 1/4 will work for 5/8 as long as nothing is on the steel


I agree... Type x is tough stuff sometimes. Nails can pop..


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

iDAHOchris said:


> 3 in the field on walls , 4 for 54" board. 4 in the field on heavy insulated lids


So thsts every how many inches?


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

12" for 3 in field,,,,,,,, 10" 4 in field ( approxim.) for 54,,,,," 8" on angles and borders


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Yea im pretty sure its 6-8" on boarders and 12" in the field..

Its crazy how some inspectors will look at that..


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

I love seeing people rocking jobs when the screws are 2' apart..


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Rich D. said:


> I love seeing people rocking jobs when the screws are 2' apart..


 chances are they were using glue


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

On metal??


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

Rich D. said:


> On metal??


They sell glue for metal stud framing
How do you install your vinyl board?


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Vinyl board???


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

griz said:


> I have dealt with some EXTREME job specs.....
> 
> But from HIGH DOLLAR residential, to California school stuff & commercial jobs...I have NEVER seen gluing drywall as a job spec...
> 
> Not knocking you just curious...


It's code in pa to glue ceilings. So I've been told.


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

detroit687 said:


> They sell glue for metal stud framing
> How do you install your vinyl board?


prefinished drywall not to popular now but I could see it make a come back like laminate with the advancement of technology


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

detroit687 said:


> prefinished drywall not to popular now but I could see it make a come back like laminate with the advancement of technology


Never saw it.

Learned sonething new today!


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Rich D. said:


> Never saw it.
> 
> Learned sonething new today!


Very popular in the 80's in residential construction. Wouldn't really come across it in a commercial setting.

We tore a bunch out years ago from an old home that was rezoned for commercial office and sold it to my then shop landlord who reinstalled it in his slum homes. I bet it's still on those walls. 

It had it's place, especially for clean ability, though I don't think today's modern design would really accept it's finish.

I know I wouldn't want it.


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## A-1 Interiors (Oct 12, 2011)

Rich D. said:


> Ok heres a good question.. whats everyones screw spacing? :laughing:


5 screws acros the board walls and ceilings 6 to 7 screws on the seams 

So 12 o/c and 8 oc on butt joints


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Mud Master said:


> Very popular in the 80's in residential construction. Wouldn't really come across it in a commercial setting.
> 
> We tore a bunch out years ago from an old home that was rezoned for commercial office and sold it to my then shop landlord who reinstalled it in his slum homes. I bet it's still on those walls.
> 
> ...


I should go ask my supplier for a quote of some. Im sure they wouldnt know what im talking about :laughing:


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

It was mostly commercial sky scrapers of it in Texas in the 80s. Its still in the commercial industry for small office buildings. I'm sure most commercial builder suppliers sell it but they don't keep it in stock.. like abuse board . Lead board its also used as ceiling tiles in clean rooms.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Californiadecks said:


> Here's what I found from the code book
> 
> Screws shall be long enough for the full-diameter portion to penetrate into wood framing not less than 5/8 inch and through metal framing not less than 1/4 inch
> 
> So 1-1/4" should be fine for 5/8. Do we have a consensus?


I always added 1/8", since the end of the screws taper and aren't full diameter, so 1 3/8" for 5/8. Not that it matters, all the drywall I ever ripped out that was screwed in place, the screws stayed in.

I'll use glue in the following cases:

Airtight Drywall - keeps air from moving through the wall
Walls framed on the flat - adds a little more rigidity to the wall,
helps prevent twisting, bowing, etc.
Unusual fastening situations where I could use the larger spacing
Ceilings where the floor above has some bounce.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

hdavis said:


> I always added 1/8", since the end of the screws taper and aren't full diameter, so 1 3/8" for 5/8. Not that it matters, all the drywall I ever ripped out that was screwed in place, the screws stayed in.
> 
> I'll use glue in the following cases:
> 
> ...


And if your using a self tapper you also have to add an 1/8 in length due to the self tapping tip


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## Henn Drywall (Dec 17, 2012)

griz said:


> I have dealt with some EXTREME job specs.....
> 
> But from HIGH DOLLAR residential, to California school stuff & commercial jobs...I have NEVER seen gluing drywall as a job spec...
> 
> Not knocking you just curious...


Never glued any drywall either, If you hang it correctly and screw it correctly there's no need for glue.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Henn Drywall said:


> Never glued any drywall either, If you hang it correctly and screw it correctly there's no need for glue.


Unless you need it.


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## schaefercs (Jul 10, 2008)

Jeez. We use 1 5/8" and glue on 1/2" walls and ceilings. That's the norm around here.


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## artiospainting (Mar 16, 2011)

In Delaware I learn to dry wall every one glued and screwed. No were else Ive been. If I say lets glue it every one will look like you've never hug sheet rock!


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

hdavis said:


> I always added 1/8", since the end of the screws taper and aren't full diameter, so 1 3/8" for 5/8. Not that it matters, all the drywall I ever ripped out that was screwed in place, the screws stayed in.
> 
> I'll use glue in the following cases:
> 
> ...


When they say the full diameter of the screw needs to penetrate the wood they mean that all the screw needs to be in the stud and not out the side or any shiners at all. It says nothing about the point of the screw. Because even the point has a diameter it's just smaller.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

People who glue drywall really erk me when Im tearing it out..


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Californiadecks said:


> When they say the full diameter of the screw needs to penetrate the wood they mean that all the screw needs to be in the stud and not out the side or any shiners at all. It says nothing about the point of the screw. Because even the point has a diameter it's just smaller.



I always read this as the full diameter portion (non-tapered part) having to penetrate 5/8 inches. I'll have to go back and read this whole part of the code to double check.
Edit: Checked 2012 IRC and it just says 5/8" penetration.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

In this region all residential is glued and screwed. Commercial is unheard of.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

hdavis said:


> I always read this as the full diameter portion (non-tapered part) having to penetrate 5/8 inches. I'll have to go back and read this whole part of the code to double check.
> Edit: Checked 2012 IRC and it just says 5/8" penetration.


So a 1 1/4" screw on 5/8 board into metal stud is a code violation. You need 5/8 penetration right?.. so 5/8 + lets say 18 ga stud + 5/8 penetration is over 1 1/4... :whistling: that must be why ive only seen/used 1 5/8 on commercial jobs.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Rich D. said:


> So a 1 1/4" screw on 5/8 board into metal stud is a code violation. You need 5/8 penetration right?.. so 5/8 + lets say 18 ga stud + 5/8 penetration is over 1 1/4... :whistling: that must be why ive only seen/used 1 5/8 on commercial jobs.


Yup. 

Even if you don't have a screw pattern inspection in your area (we don't) it's still against acceptable installation methods as I said earlier. 

I believe it was the GA (Gypsum Association) that first instituted it followed by other non specific trade groups as all installation practices are based off of GA standards.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Wow. 
Regional thing I guess.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Rich D. said:


> So a 1 1/4" screw on 5/8 board into metal stud is a code violation. You need 5/8 penetration right?.. so 5/8 + lets say 18 ga stud + 5/8 penetration is over 1 1/4... :whistling: that must be why ive only seen/used 1 5/8 on commercial jobs.


That was just for a wood stud, not metal.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Big Shoe said:


> Wow.
> Regional thing I guess.


Seems to be - I wonder what's done in Canada.


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## profinish (Oct 7, 2005)

I always glue ceilings.
And for the most part everything gets 1 5/8
Doesnt matter to me if its 1/2 or 5/8 Board


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