# Caulk and putty



## izzy (Oct 6, 2009)

Client just ran my painter off the site and insist that I personally finished the job. I explained to her that I'm not a painter but she is still instant that I finish the job " she is confident in my ability". I'm not a painter by trade but I do possess a decent painting skill, but I really didn't want her to know that because I don't enjoy it very much. So here's my question, since she is very particular what is the best caulk and putty for seems and nail holes that you guys recommend for wood trim.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

Generally I would ask who is running the job, the customer or you. You left out some important details, like why your customer ran your painter off the job. Maybe the problem is your customer, and maybe you have a much bigger problem, your painter. 

If the customer has a significant legitimate beef, then do the work. 

As for caulk and putty, you will find many different answers here. I like e-z sand (drywall mud) for filling nail holes and small spaces in trim. I like latex caulk between the trim and drywall or at long joints in trim.


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

izzy said:


> Client just ran my painter off the site and insist that I personally finished the job. I explained to her that I'm not a painter but she is still instant that I finish the job " she is confident in my ability". I'm not a painter by trade but I do possess a decent painting skill, but I really didn't want her to know that because I don't enjoy it very much. So here's my question, since she is very particular what is the best caulk and putty for seems and nail holes that you guys recommend for wood trim.


I wont use caulk on trim, at all. IMO a total hack play. If you want a fuller rant on the caulk/trim subject...

http://www.contractortalk.com/f11/need-advise-gap-filling-problem-75756-post906536/#post906536

If the wood is to be painted I use this,

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=142&SubcatID=23

:thumbsup:

If the trim is to be stained I have gotten good results with this,

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537

If I need hi-strength or there is rot I go with an epoxy filler. Or something like this which Neolitic posted, which I am interested in checking out,

http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildingandrestorationproducts.html

If I need a *fast and cheap* hi-strengh filler fix (though not good for rot), like say at a mortice or at a chewed up lock-set I have also gotten good results with regular old Bondo (also a good number of folk say good things about Durham's Rock Hard Putty).

But caulk on trim? Just put the tube down and step away from the woodwork...nice and easy. :laughing:

But like Thom said, I would want to know what the HO's problem with the painter was, generally I wouldn't let the HO determine *how* or *who* gets the agreed upon results (assuming it's a workmanship related problem). HO's don't get an honorary position in my HR Dept.


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## izzy (Oct 6, 2009)

> I wont use caulk on trim, at all. IMO a total hack play. If you want a fuller rant on the caulk/trim subject...


I think maybe I was misunderstood or maybe I wasn't. I assume you use caulk on painted trim where the trim meets the wall, I was just curious if there seemed to be a superior brand. I usually use dap latex caulk. And I totally agree, caulking nail holes and joinery is total hack work.

As for the painter he is a sub contractor not a hired employee, and as far as I know any project that I have been involved with from $1 to $30mil the owner or client has the right to qualify sub contractors. And it has been workmanship according to her. I cant let the painter stand in the way of completing what has been til now a good project. "dollar waiting on a dime"


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## gallerytungsten (Jul 5, 2007)

Yes, you'll use caulk where the trim meets the wall (assuming it's all going to be painted). For filling holes, MH Ready Patch is pretty good. But an alternative, thanks to another thread, is oil-based glazing putty, which doesn't shrink at all. However, I wouldn't use that if you're using latex paint.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Moore, you don't use caulk where the trim (painted) meets the wall or ceiling?


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

boman47k said:


> Moore, you don't use caulk where the trim (painted) meets the wall or ceiling?


In that kid of location, honestly, I go back and forth a bit. The stuff I use (that Crackshot) works great on drywall or plaster as well, so yes most times, especially in the old houses here (100-130 years old and plaster) the Crackshot is what I will use.

I have had good stability with the stuff over time (years later), it's just not nearly as fast as a tube of caulk. That is my one major beef with it. I can backfill into a gap between wall and casing and get good adhesion to the point where I am not finding cracks even several years later.

I know in that location a lot of folks might prefer caulk, and in new construction where you may have a fair bit of movement (settling, new wood , etc.) a case might be made to me for it being preferable. I am still waiting for enough work to get old enough to settle the matter for my self in my own mind.

As far as quality of results (leaving aside for the moment the possible issue of longevity), in my mind no question, caulk always gives an inferior result appearance wise.

Long answer to a short question, yes in most cases I do, and in a few specific cases I probably wouldn't (a crown/ceiling seam comes to mind).



izzy said:


> I think maybe I was misunderstood or maybe I wasn't. I assume you use caulk on painted trim where the trim meets the wall, I was just curious if there seemed to be a superior brand. I usually use dap latex caulk. And I totally agree, caulking nail holes and joinery is total hack work.


My mistake, I thought you were referring to general wood filling, holes, seams, etc.



> As for the painter he is a sub contractor not a hired employee, and *as far as I know any project that I have been involved with from $1 to $30mil the owner or client has the right to qualify sub contractors*. And it has been workmanship according to her. I cant let the painter stand in the way of completing what has been til now a good project. "dollar waiting on a dime"


Hmm, interesting, well you're the GC. I'll take your word on that. I guess I am applying my thinking on a crew to your situation as a GC, maybe that's an error on my part. 

How many other guys find the HO having right of refusal (as opposed to simply setting the level of quality i.e. outcome) on subs to be standard operating procedure?

EDIT. Just to clarify, I was not calling caulking trim to wall surfaces hackery (just on wood to wood). I understand that is how most do it and I don't generally have a problem with it in that context, even though personally I often choose the alt. method mentioned above.

Not trying to throw hack bombs in painterville. :whistling


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## izzy (Oct 6, 2009)

> Not trying to throw hack bombs in painterville. :whistling


:laughing::laughing: Letem rip


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