# Fixing mesh-taped corners



## intjonmiller (Jan 8, 2014)

I'm doing a small job for a neighbor. Previous homeowner "finished" the small basement. Did a full, pretty good job on a bedroom, and did a rough tape on the hall/stairs leading to the room and the bathroom. This owner is now trying to refinance so he got an appraisal and the appraiser said he can't count the basement bedroom until the hall is complete. I'd never heard that before. So he needs me to finish it up so he can count the additional square footage. 

It's a small job in terms of square feet, with only one small board to hang over concrete. But the idiot used mesh tape for the corners. And all of his joints have way too much mud. The numerous butt joints and few tapers are easy enough to knock down with a power sander, but what about the mesh corners?? They aren't sharp. Do I need to cut it out (maybe with my oscillating tool?) and re-tape the corners? (My 5" R.O. sander doesn't get into corners all that well, especially interior 3-ways, and it would just chew up the tape and leave a ragged mess anyway.) Before I left I tried smoothing it with more mud, but the exposed mesh in the corner where it wasn't tight enough makes the knife bounce and gives me lines across the length of the knife. Not cool. 

So, what do you think? The homeowner isn't expecting perfection, but it can't look like absolute crap either. Maybe just smooth it with the knife just shy of the corner and then caulk it? It won't be a crisp corner but at least it will be smooth? 

Any ideas are appreciated. Sorry I forgot to take a picture of it for reference but you can probably imagine. Thanks!


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Can you go over it with Strait Flex?


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## intjonmiller (Jan 8, 2014)

I thought about that but it's already built up so much I'm not sure how it would look. I may try an area like that to see how it goes. I just don't want to spend hours experimenting. I have a tendency to do that because I lose track of time.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Get a stiff knife and knock as much chunks and high spots off as possible. 
If not painted, sand with pole sander. 

If go the straight flex route. 6" first coat and follow with 10 if it is as bad as you say. 

Good luck.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

Forget the straight flex. In a stairway with over built mesh angle you risk popping. Straight flex is very stiff. It doesn't crack but it does pop. I suggest opening the point with a razor knife, side scraping as much of it down as you can and consider level line which is more forgiving. Just fill in the rail and don't take it to the corner. If it's real bad you may want to run an adjustable double sided knife skim as a prefill before the level line.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Just re-read original post. Be sure to check back in and let us know how it all worked out. And It's really hard to recommend how to fix something like that without physically seeing it.


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## Quad Racer (Jun 2, 2014)

Remove the mesh and as much mud as possible down to the paper of the DW. Maybe even water would help with removal? Then tape with paper and use as big a blade as needed to blend the previous guys mess. Definitely use Durabond but I use it for everything anyway. My $.02


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Have to agree on removing the mesh. I think you are also going to find on the high joints that when you start sanding them you find those lovely little squares peeking out at you.


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## PoleBarnsNY (Jan 18, 2014)

Three options 

1. Cut the mesh in the corner with a razor knife paper tape it and do the best you can

2. Use a square power sander in the corners with a very aggressive grit to get all you can then cut the tiny remainder out in the tightest part of the corner with a razor knife then paper tape it as normal 

3. If it is indeed small amount of square footage, cut out the section of boards in the corners and back to the last stud and replace the board then finish as normal

My choice would be number 2


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## Walraven (Jan 24, 2014)

What about scraping it back with a tungsten scrapper?


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

Mesh paper sands away pretty easy. I would just get yourself a 1/4 sheet sander and some 100 or 80 grit. Shouldn't take long at all.


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

I think the best idea is to sand down so u can get enough
I read somebody said to cut it back to the next stud, I wouldn't do that.you will have a but joint with a hump and trying to float that out to the corner you will have a bigger problem than u started with


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

Just sand it down and retape
Opening the wall to the next stud just increases your problems. Having butt joints close to corners is worse than just tapering out corner.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Quad Racer said:


> Remove the mesh and as much mud as possible down to the paper of the DW. Maybe even water would help with removal? Then tape with paper and use as big a blade as needed to blend the previous guys mess. Definitely use Durabond but I use it for everything anyway. My $.02


 :thumbsup: get it wet and wait ten minutes. It will all scrape out like butter,,, maybe cheese. The water will help:thumbsup:


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## Quad Racer (Jun 2, 2014)

I can agree with that. A good approach because it all has to come off the board.


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