# colored cement



## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

I am doing a bathroom and the homeowner wants a cement floor. I have done a ton of floor mix pours and some concrete finishing.

It is only 4'x8' and I have a mixer.

Can anyone recommend a product or technique?

Will I need to put a relief cut in somewhere?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Do you mean something like this?

http://tinyurl.com/33uxv9e


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

I guess I am looking for dyeing it during the mixing. I was wondering if anyone had done a bathroom in concrete before.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Are you going to overlay it, i.e. 3/4" or less or are you going to place a new floor, 4" thick?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

You give little to no info about the situation. Hell, you are even calling it "cement". Call me stupid but I'm guessing you don't know what you're doing here. Why not try to sub the job out to someone that doesn't need to come to the internet and ask for free advice?

You might not make as much money on the initial job but it will be better than screwing up something like a concrete floor and having to do it over again.


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

I am planning new floor over wirsbo or electric mat. There will be a shower waste on one end.

I was planning on going overkill on rerod and/or lathe and doing it similar to how I finish floor mix pours.

If it looks like I might make a mess of it, I will sub it out.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

carterarce said:


> I am planning new floor over wirsbo or electric mat. There will be a shower waste on one end.
> 
> I was planning on going overkill on rerod and/or lathe and doing it similar to how I finish floor mix pours.
> 
> If it looks like I might make a mess of it, I will sub it out.


Well see, a bit more info comes up.

I don't think a new pored floor over the heat will work. Electric mats are designed to be under a minimal amount of material. Either the mat would have to be on for a very long time to get enough heat transfer or it won't heat at all. Pour 4" over Wirsbo may be an issue too. I believe the temperature of the boiler output would have to be quite a bit higher to heat that much material. Think exterior temps.

Do they want a colored floor or a cool looking floor? That might make a difference between staining or using dyed concrete.


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

As if I am not googling this **** at the same time.

From what I understand, cement is wet, concrete is cured cement. Just thought I'd use both. Like I said, I want to color the cement, not dye existing concrete.

Yes, I can sub it out if I want, I can even call my subs and ask them what they would do, but I am culling as much info from various sources as I can.

Thanks for the entertainment.


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

angus242 said:


> Well see, a bit more info comes up.
> 
> I don't think a new pored floor over the heat will work. Electric mats are designed to be under a minimal amount of material. Either the mat would have to be on for a very long time to get enough heat transfer or it won't heat at all. Pour 4" over Wirsbo may be an issue too. I believe the temperature of the boiler output would have to be quite a bit higher to heat that much material. Think exterior temps.
> 
> Do they want a colored floor or a cool looking floor? That might make a difference between staining or using dyed concrete.



They want a cool looking floor. Super modern. Have a suggestion?

I can see why elecric won't work but I think people do wisrbo all the time. Have to put a regulator valve att he beginning of the run I believe.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

carterarce said:


> From what I understand, cement is wet, concrete is cured cement.


Cement is an ingredient in concrete.


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

angus242 said:


> Cement is an ingredient in concrete.




Correction noted.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Stained concrete:









Colored concrete:









Based off what you're saying, I think stained is more of the look. But I dunno. The customers have conveyed their wishes to you. What do you think between the 2?


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

The stained is what I am envisioning but a solid black would be nice too.

Thanks for helping me clarify my intent.

The stained is plain concrete that has been stained? Does it have to have a clear finish put on? I understand they can be slippery with the finish on it.

Should I put a relief cut at 4'? I think relief cut is the correct terminology.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

There are overlays that can be applied down to 1/4" and be internally colored or stained. They are only going to work over a cementious floor in good clean condition though.


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

Tscarborough said:


> There are overlays that can be applied down to 1/4" and be internally colored or stained. They are only going to work over a cementious floor in good clean condition though.



Thanks. I am tearing out the old floor to replace the shower waste and to keep the grade the same as the rest of the basement.

1/4"? That is an interesting thought. is it a self leveling type product?


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

No, as a rule S/L products are not for wearing surfaces, they have to be covered by something.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Stained concrete isn't actually stained. It's acid etched. Yes it should be sealed and yes, it might be slippery. Lots of commercial building will have stained concrete floors (think Walmart). I'm no expert but I believe I have seen sealers that are marked as, slip resistant. Not sure if they are.

As for the specs on a new pour...I don't know.

However, you're talking about a bathroom floor. Even if you used colored concrete, you might still have to seal it. Would an epoxy coating be an option?


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

angus242 said:


> Stained concrete isn't actually stained. It's acid etched. Yes it should be sealed and yes, it might be slippery. Lots of commercial building will have stained concrete floors (think Walmart). I'm no expert but I believe I have seen sealers that are marked as, slip resistant. Not sure if they are.
> 
> As for the specs on a new pour...I don't know.
> 
> However, you're talking about a bathroom floor. Even if you used colored concrete, you might still have to seal it. Would an epoxy coating be an option?



Epoxy coating is an option, now that I know it is an option 

Another dumb question: Why does it need to be sealed? Because it is inside and the moisture won't evaporate as it does outside?


OK, now I am armed with some knowledge when I call my sub or go to the concrete plant to find the products.


Thanks man, and I enjoyed bickering with you


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

angus242 said:


> Stained concrete isn't actually stained. It's acid etched. Yes it should be sealed and yes, it might be slippery. Lots of commercial building will have stained concrete floors (think Walmart). I'm no expert but I believe I have seen sealers that are marked as, slip resistant. Not sure if they are.
> 
> As for the specs on a new pour...I don't know.
> 
> However, you're talking about a bathroom floor. Even if you used colored concrete, you might still have to seal it. Would an epoxy coating be an option?


I'm not a huge SW fan but they make a product called sharkgrip which when properly mixed with sealer works wonderfully for adding traction to sealer.

Sherwin Williams - SharkGrip


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

lukachuki said:


> I'm not a huge SW fan but they make a product called sharkgrip which when properly mixed with sealer works wonderfully for adding traction to sealer.
> 
> Sherwin Williams - SharkGrip



Thanks!!!!


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

And FYI there ARE "colored cements". Normally portland cement is gray through a range of darkness, but there is also white (made by not allowing the clinker to touch metal through a portion of the process) and also buff (made by injecting diesel fuel at a certain point in the process). This do not have any color added, that is the actual color or the portland cement itself.


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

To the OP... one reason it gets sealed it to really highlight the color. 

Your best bet is to probably overlay and acid etch it. There are also gels you can use that dont contain acid, therefore you dont need to go through the trouble of neutralizing it, although you do have to take a bucket of water and sponge, and sponge off the residue before ceiling.


There is also many manufactures out there that offer slip resistant sealers, as well as colored sealers that give you great color that go right over the gray concrete.

There are so many options available we could go all day. Its ultimately up to you to do the research and figure what is best.

I've done overlays at abotu 3/8" thick over wooden substrates where we nailed down diamond lathe and poured out over lay on top. Customer was aware there would be cracking, and sure enough, next day there was tiny spider webbing on the floor. 

It really looked great after acid etching, and 6 years or so later, the cracks have not opened up and the sealer is still holding. We used diamond clear.


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## carterarce (Jan 13, 2009)

6stringmason said:


> To the OP... one reason it gets sealed it to really highlight the color.
> 
> Your best bet is to probably overlay and acid etch it. There are also gels you can use that dont contain acid, therefore you dont need to go through the trouble of neutralizing it, although you do have to take a bucket of water and sponge, and sponge off the residue before ceiling.
> 
> ...



Thanks!


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