# Recommend patch technique to carpenter



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> I used mesh tape on this drywall repair.


Wanted to add that I did three coats of 5 minute (sheetrock brand) hot mud. Then skim coated with Sheetrock green box AP, light sand, prime and paint. :thumbsup:


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

For small patches I have a new cool tool its a occilating saw with a drywall blade on it works slick to cut out small area quick then if there is no backing available I cut a piece of drywall 1/2 " less wider and about 2 1/2 " longer put a screw half way in the middle of the piece just to hold it with my fingers and sneak it in then I use fatboy screws those are made for screwing drywall to drywall only then cut another piece to fit the opening and screw it off with fatboys then mud tape what ever way suits you best.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> In your case, it's about cutting your loses, and getting it done as fast as you can, so you can get your money.
> 
> Use M*SH tape, or fibafuse tape , and some type of fast setting hotmud. If you can get the fibafuse, get it. The best thing about it for patches is the product is sandable. So you can pile the mud on, and sand right into the Fibafuse tape and it won't matter (within reason:whistling).
> 
> ...


Lemme tell ya, as of Friday I'm sold on this. I have a system in a condo that has a dozen old inwall touch screen keypads. One crapped out so we decided to replace with an iport ipad wall dock. I got a drywall pro to patch the hole and he did it this exact way. I though I would be re-cutting the new hole through plywood or strapping hitting nails along the way. Nope, cut out easy with a jab saw and turned out perfect.:thumbsup:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> FibaFuse is the shizzle! :thumbup:


Paul, do you use the stuff in 2buck canucks pics? Who sells it, the Depot or Lowes? 

Not that I'm going to run out and buy a roll. I'v been using mesh for over twenty something years and am fine with it.


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## mnld (Jun 4, 2013)

Big Shoe said:


> Paul, do you use the stuff in 2buck canucks pics? Who sells it, the Depot or Lowes?
> 
> Not that I'm going to run out and buy a roll. I'v been using mesh for over twenty something years and am fine with it.


Allwall,Sherwin Williams, or ask your supplier.

A patch like 2bucks doesn't work to well with mesh:thumbup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Big Shoe said:


> Paul, do you use the stuff in 2buck canucks pics? Who sells it, the Depot or Lowes?
> 
> Not that I'm going to run out and buy a roll. I'v been using mesh for over twenty something years and am fine with it.


I couldn't find FibaFuse anywhere around here. :no:
So I ordered it online from all-wall.com. :thumbup:
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Fiberglass-Mesh-Drywall-Tape/FibaFuse-Paperless-Drywall-Tape.html


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Big Shoe said:


> Paul, do you use the stuff in 2buck canucks pics? Who sells it, the Depot or Lowes?
> 
> *Not that I'm going to run out and buy a roll*. I'v been using mesh for over twenty something years and am fine with it.


You should. Tried it awhile ago and all butts and patches gets the Fiba F, superior product in many ways. IMO

Menards stocks it.

How's it goin 2buck?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 7, 2010)

Paulie said:


> How's it goin 2buck?


Things are going horrible Paulie, how about you?

First, over at Drywall talk, every single You tube video got wiped out from the spam attack. That's years of how to vids, showcasing jobs, music vids, funny vids,,,,,,, all gone:blink:,,,,,, plus the site is still full of the spam junk.

Then the pics I posted in this thread, thought I was going to get in trouble with the drywall contractor over the home owner. She got arguing with me over scheduling , about when I was to show up to do them. (she was wrong). She was going nag nag nag at the door, to which I said "Lady, why are you nagging me, I'm just doing my job"

I knew it was wrong to say as soon as I said it:sad:, but I rarely half to deal with the Home owners. She let me in to coat the patch, then when I was done, she said I was rude to her, that she pays my wages, and to get out of her house. News to me she paid my wages, since I never taped her house, and was doing the DWC a favour.

Afterwards I was trying to shrug it off, but got to thinking she would be on the phone to the builder to have me fired some how. Maybe she would try saying I raped her or something. So I called up my drywall contractor, told him what happened, and this is what he said in a laughing like tone"Yeah, the builder said to watch out about her, said she was a big b1tch, that's why I asked you to do me a favour:laughing:"

Friggen DWC's


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Sounds like my average day. 

Sorry to hear about the DT vids. I actually have been trying to make some but as usual they are a disaster. I'm not sure if my labtop has a virus or my Nikon isn't working right but they skip and stop. 

I would have switched out her kitchen flour with 20 min. being mean like that. :whistling


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Paulie said:


> I would have switched out her kitchen flour with 20 min. being mean like that. :whistling


:laughing: 

Good to see you Paulie. :thumbup:


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Sir Mixalot said:


> :laughing:
> 
> Good to see you Paulie. :thumbup:


Hey Mixy!


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

I typically use mesh or fibafuse. I tend to drag my first coat too thin and fibafuse is more forgiving of that. I also patch like Peck does but for a cutout like the OP is dealing with I cut the original drywall out with a bevel on it so I can reuse it and have nice edge support in addition to the furring strip.

I use two coats of hot mud and one of AP or, if I'm in a rush, I'll use EZ-Sand for the last coat so I can sand by the end of the day.

Here's a video from a guy who makes great videos on Youtube. This is part 4 of 7, it was his first video so it ran long and is chopped up but he's showing the plaster/mud technique.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Well, that guy knows his stuff. And pretty good with that trowel. He can do it his way all he wants. :thumbsup:



I'd prefer to do it my way. Mesh and five minute mud. :whistling


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## livingsoulsdie (Sep 29, 2006)

Paper tape mesh tape doesnt really matter. Feather out as far as you can so you dont see the hump.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

EthanB said:


> Here's a video from a guy who makes great videos on Youtube. This is part 4 of 7, it was his first video so it ran long and is chopped up but he's showing the plaster/mud technique.


:thumbup:

That was a great video Ethan!

I'm gonna have to try that the next time I have patches.

(The pie technique)

Very cool!


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

keke said:


> maybe you guys should try this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQsi7hJyJRM





schaefercs said:


> That's the one I use all the time. I've heard it called many things, I call it a blowout patch.


Old union finisher taught me that trick years ago. Have used it to this day, right up until I read this thread.



2buckcanuck said:


> The drywall has to be cut perfectly to fit the hole, to which must rockers will say "close enough". Then when you try to coat over them right a way, they will blister. So most times you can only install them, then coat the next day.
> 
> *Agreed.*
> 
> Do all carpenters think everything can be fixed with some wood, nails or screw. This system requires none of those:thumbup:


That's usually what we have on the truck/van. I'm liking the drywall patching without the need for all of that.

:thumbup:



Big Shoe said:


> Well, that guy knows his stuff. And pretty good with that trowel. He can do it his way all he wants. :thumbsup:
> 
> I'd prefer to do it my way. Mesh and five minute mud. :whistling


I'm wondering if you could use 5min Easysand in the "center of the pie"?

Its along the same lines... no?

The thing I liked about this video was that, it shows how to save the "extra" step of dumping more powdered "hot mud" into the pan each time, and cleaning out the pan in between mixes.

That's assuming you own a hawk. :whistling

(Thanks Ethan :thumbup

I'd like to combine the two techniques of fibafuse and this.

I now might finally be free from the rolls of fiberglass screen and Wellbond, to skim coat old plaster walls that I have stabilized with plaster washers.

Thanks guys.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

tenon0774 said:


> I now might finally be free from the rolls of fiberglass screen and Wellbond, to skim coat old plaster walls that I have stabilized with plaster washers.


Pricey, but check this out:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1628100,00.html


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

I've always used the blow-out patch, but simplify. 

Make the patch piece first, then, hold the patch against the wall, draw around it with your pencil and cut out the line. 

Doing it this way eliminates the need to measure to insure the patch fits the hole. Start with the patch then make the hole you must cut anyway match your patch. 

It ain't rocket surgery.

To make things even quicker, put the mud on the patch, not the wall. Run the mud around the edges of the patch to fill any gap between the cut edges of the wall-board.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

thom said:


> Make the patch piece first, then, hold the patch against the wall, draw around it with your pencil and cut out the line.


Fastest way I know.


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## carpenter uk (Nov 25, 2009)

schaefercs said:


> That's the one I use all the time. I've heard it called many things, I call it a blowout patch.


i personally would have put a piece of timber behind that one to give it a bit of strength for the next time someone opens the door too fast:thumbsup:


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

carpenter uk said:


> i personally would have put a piece of timber behind that one to give it a bit of strength for the next time someone opens the door too fast:thumbsup:


That won't solve any problem. The drywall will still be damaged and need replacement. Replacing a blow-out patch with another is pretty easy, easier than replacing the patch with the block and screws. The block and screws patch will tend to extend the size of the problem by pulling the screws above and below the patch into the drywall. 

The real way to solve the door knob problem is with a door stop.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

thom said:


> I've always used the blow-out patch, but simplify.
> 
> Make the patch piece first, then, hold the patch against the wall, draw around it with your pencil and cut out the line.
> 
> ...


I do this too but the paper will get too moist sometimes and break up a little. Probably from not doing it enough.


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