# fast cap 2p-10 glue -get some!



## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

I figured I would share a little secret of mine...I have been using this stuff called 2p-10 glue from FASTCAP for a while now and it is amazing for instant joining of miters on moldings. Especially on finished crowns and detail moldings on cabinet installations. Anyone else use this product? It is not too cheap, but it makes such a difference in the outcome of the mitering and final look of finished moldings that is pays for itself in the long run..when used with the activator spray the bond is instant and permanent it can also be used in combination with regular wood glue where it is used as a chemical pin nail/clamp to hold things together till the wood glue sets up. here is a link:

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=12826&idcategory=48


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## MKnAs Dad (Mar 20, 2011)

Fastcaps is good, can't stand the Titebond CA glue, and have heard some decent things about the Satelite City CA glue, but never tried it.


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## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

MKnAs Dad said:


> Fastcaps is good, can't stand the Titebond CA glue, and have heard some decent things about the Satelite City CA glue, but never tried it.


the real nice thing about the Fastcap stuff is that it comes in a 10oz container..those 2 oz ones from Satelite and Titebond are way too small. this stuff really makes doing crown on cabinets so much easier and the results are much better. How many times have you tried to back nail an inside miter and not been able to get your pin nailer back there or had the nail com through the face-


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## BrandConst (May 9, 2011)

I'm going to have to give that stuff a try.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Thanx for the info. You're right, expensive. But if it works likeyou said, worth every cent!:thumbsup:

It's listed as being available at a hardware store not far from me. I'll pick some up tomorrow and post my experience. I actually have some cabinet crown miter that is separating:







:no:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

You guys been living under a rock or something?


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## carpentershane (Feb 9, 2009)

Buy the replacement cap set when you buy the glue- you won't regret it!

Great product!


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You guys been living under a rock or something?


Lol. I have heard and used this stuff for around 6 years.


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You guys been living under a rock or something?


I've been riding the bus for a while. Think I heard about it here for the first time, and had to try it. Now I'm stuck on it :laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Or stuck to it.:laughing:


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

i havent used the fastcap stuff. however a local cabinet supply was selling it and just recently the lumber yard around the corner from me started carrying it

wonderful stuff


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Bonds to fast for my liking. I wish it was 20 second. And I wish it was even 10 second. The bond usually forms within a few seconds and if everything isn't lined up perfect, tough. I still use it but not as much if it was a bit slower. 

Using titebond II on miters can be just as quick sometimes. And sometimes not. I haven't figured out why.


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## Mrmac204 (Dec 27, 2006)

I've been using the Lee Valley stuff for a few years now, it works great. The only issue that I have is that its instant- no chance to make slight corrections.

I recently found a P210 variant in a local lumber yard, with a spray can. Tried it out, yup it's my new go-to glue for crown returns etc.

Reason is that I have a few seconds to do minor corrections because this stuff takes a little bit longer to kick than the lee valley stuff.

It's the cats meow, no need to cross nail the miter or anything, just glue it up on the bench.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

As it gets older, it slows down Leo.


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## flippinfool (Jan 6, 2009)

*Great stuff*

Been using it over ten years. Would never do trim with out it. It does have a learning curve to it. I would practice with it before I used it on finished molding. Once you put the pcs together that's it. You can pull them apart. You will have to re-cut a micro slice to get the glue off for a nice tight joint. For door and window casings you can lay it on a flat surface put all three or four pcs together, Stand it up and install the entire frame. I also works great on those micro returns no nails needed. Best to keep the glue on the back end of the joint and not let it squeeze out the finished side. It will not remove to easy after it cures. They have thin, thick and gel. I find the gel to be the best. If your a little sloppy get the debonder.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Mrmac204 said:


> I've been using the Lee Valley stuff for a few years now, it works great. The only issue that I have is that its instant- no chance to make slight corrections.
> 
> *I recently found a P210 variant* in a local lumber yard, with a spray can. Tried it out, yup it's my new go-to glue for crown returns etc.
> 
> ...


Do tell.

I've used the above and like the others knock it because there is no time for error. I'm sure there is a chemical that would slow the process down but would like to just find a variation that's a slower initial tack like the others said... or maybe just Leo.


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## carpentershane (Feb 9, 2009)

Leo G said:


> Bonds to fast for my liking. I wish it was 20 second. And I wish it was even 10 second. The bond usually forms within a few seconds and if everything isn't lined up perfect, tough. I still use it but not as much if it was a bit slower.
> 
> Using titebond II on miters can be just as quick sometimes. And sometimes not. I haven't figured out why.



If you forego using the activator the set time isn't as deadly


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## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

carpentershane said:


> If you forego using the activator the set time isn't as deadly


Yes- if you have a piece that might give you a hard time and you need more time to make it line up better, dont use the activator - just "hand clamp" it for about 25- 30 sec and voila! It does take a bit of practice and I still have to break apart a miter and redo it once in a while, but the result is sooo much better than regular glue and nails.:thumbup:


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## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

jb4211 said:


> Thanx for the info. You're right, expensive. But if it works likeyou said, worth every cent!:thumbsup:
> 
> It's listed as being available at a hardware store not far from me. I'll pick some up tomorrow and post my experience. I actually have some cabinet crown miter that is separating:
> 
> ...


looks like the electrician was wiring up some over the cab lighting and used it for a handhold..lol. Which... by the way, after we install our crown (if it is dropped down from the ceiling) I usually caulk the back along the cabinets or nailer and miters of the whole thing with adhesive caulk or pl to prevent "handhold syndrome" from affecting it down the road. Painters, electricians, give it your best try!!


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

TiteBond II, a few 23ga pins and a few seconds with a color matched crayon and it looks perfect. And there is no rush to beat the clock. The alignment is almost always perfect unless you move the joint while shooting the nail. 

Pretty sure I can match most stains.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

I tested 2p-10 vs. Azek glue on Azek decking. 2p-10 won by a mile.

Leo, where'd you get that kit of color match crayons?


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

WildWill said:


> Leo, where'd you get that kit of color match crayons?




http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/

Open an account with them, and if you get approved you can get about 25% off of their listed prices.

Retail that kit is about $400 and with the account it is about $315.

They have several smaller kits and you can buy individual pc and put your own kit together. I just bought all the crayons colors they make and now have a bunch of markers also. It really nice to watch the holes disappear. But you still have to know what you are doing and the limits to them.


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