# Mold Infested....Need Opinion



## DLF Builder (Dec 18, 2007)

I, going to be remodeling an apartment that has water damage and I was asked to apply a spray to studs before hanging drywall. Does anyone have an idea what the name of this product is?


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

Yup!!! Clorox or any Quaternary Ammonium product such as Metaquart. (DiMethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride.)

But you REALLY need to remove (abate) ANYTHING that is porous and affected. EVERYTHING!


----------



## j_builder (May 10, 2008)

MALCO.New.York said:


> Yup!!! Clorox or any Quaternary Ammonium product such as Metaquart. (DiMethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride.)
> 
> But you REALLY need to remove (abate) ANYTHING that is porous and effected. EVERYTHING!


"DITTO"

I'm assuming that your qualified and licensed too...


----------



## LNG24 (Oct 30, 2005)

Funny reading this thread right after the Asbestos thread. Seems to be more concern over Mold than asbestos.

Once the water source is removed and the mold is killed. You are good to go. But if the studs are soaked, you need to get them dry before recovering them up.


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

j_builder said:


> "DITTO"
> 
> I'm assuming that your qualified and licensed too...



But I _DID_ stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.............:blink:


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

If you close up a wall, dried, yet contaminated with dormant spores, it WILL come back at the first opportunity(it IS opportunistic because it is everywhere already) and proliferate at a GREATER rate.

There is no TRUE way, economically feasible way, around mold containment on porous surfaces but for sealing (polyester resin or the like) or replacing.


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

LNG24 said:


> Funny reading this thread right after the Asbestos thread. Seems to be more concern over Mold than asbestos.
> 
> Once the water source is removed and the mold is killed. You are good to go. But if the studs are soaked, you need to get them dry before recovering them up.



Should be. It is more prevalent, and deadlier by far!!!!!


----------



## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

Mold is worst in my book. 

It like* herpes*, every time you think its gone,* Bam *it just pops back up at you


----------



## theartisan (Apr 16, 2007)

I use TIM-BOR it is great more effective and less caustic than bleach solutions. 

http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/spec/PICK-timbor1.htm

i buy it for ~$90 at Lesco (which is now owned by john-deere) for a 25lb bucket of powder that you mix into a 10-15% spray.

I had this product recommended to me by an environmental consultant who specializes in mold and is also a good friend.

as a bonus it kills/prevents termites and carpenter ants


----------



## We Fix Houses (Aug 15, 2007)

Let's see how this flies...

Clean surfaces with Simple Green, Bleach, Water.

Sparay this solution directly on the affected area. (Can be fogged too)
Available at HD Tool Rental, Spray on. Then spray 1 coat Kilz oilbase. I called the tech folks. The Kilz will not dissipate the encapsulation spray. 

Many folks clean and spray the Kilz.

http://concrobium.com/US/advantage.html

The pic with the double sole plate, the adjoining unit, the dw was replaced.


----------



## Ed the Roofer (Dec 12, 2006)

Also, make sure you insert a Mold Disclaimer into your contract after you speak with your attorney.

You don't want to get stuck holding the bag years down the road, especially when you have no contraol over the ongoing living conditions of the occupants after you have done the remediation work.

Recent California Court rulings have held that Farmers Insurance Company was legally right to introduce and enforce an "Absolute Mold Exclusion" into thier policy's, even if the cause of the mold was created by an insurable event.
http://www.insurlaw.com/news/news-feb08.htm

Here is a Mold Disclosure and Disclaimer that is written from the point of a seller of property to some other buyer.
http://www.forino.com/pdf/FORINOMOLD.pdf

Ed


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

Ed the Roofer said:


> Also, make sure you insert a Mold Disclaimer into your contract after you speak with your attorney.
> 
> You don't want to get stuck holding the bag years down the road, especially when you have no contraol over the ongoing living conditions of the occupants after you have done the remediation work.
> 
> ...



And this is because, when presented the opportunity, MOLD spores will regenerate. It is the single most resilient organism on the Earth.

Can go 100's of Thousands of years dormant. 

Egyptian tombs and a rare strain of Typhoid????


----------



## painterman (Feb 5, 2005)

If the project is big enough have the areas Soda Blasted. This is a approved method by insurance companys


----------



## remomarc (Jul 10, 2007)

It aint bleach, BORACARE I believe is the name. Now there are cheaper products, any Quat can kill the mold on the surface but mold gets into the wood and the Boracare stuf seeps in 2-4 inches. I believe its also an insecticide. It can be found at feed stores or located on line, the lab won't sell it direct. Get the syrup. Need to make certain with owners or contractor if they seek abatement or just getting rid of the stinch. Abatement calls for scrapping, sanding and such. Keep in mind though I do not know of mold killing anyone though "black toxic" mold must be some bad stuff.


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

Stachybotrus atra


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stachybotrys_chartarum


----------

