# I don’t even like sayin’ “Vinyl Siding”



## WindowsPlus (Oct 29, 2012)

Inserting insulation under "paint-able" aka wood, siding doesn't work as you feel it might due to moisture from weather conditions based of course out of a region you live in. Most current siding being used is that doomed, dare you say it, VINYL SIDING. In the long run investment, it's the easiest, no hassle solution to keeping your home from wear and tear and insulating as you are in search of. 

Installing foam insulation under vinyl siding is a wise choice for homeowners who are seeking to protect their homes against moisture infiltration as well as improve energy efficiency like I believe you were stating. It also serves as an air barrier. Generally referred to as rigid foam insulation, this type of foam insulation is also called foam board, foam plastic, insulated sheathing and rigid foam sheathing. Just make sure care is exercised during the installation process to ensure that the insulation works effectively to control the penetration of water and air into the wall assembly.


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## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

I recently finished a project similar to this one. The siding had many years of paint jobs of differing quality, and the house was poorly insulated. I ended up removing the siding and restoring it off the house, as there was nothing wrong with it. While the siding was off the sheathing was removed, and all wall cavities were spray foamed. Not as big a project as it sounds and the end result was what we wanted.


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

With a house built in 1929, there 's a good chance its balloon framed with no fire blocking. When you gut the upstairs it might get you access to most of the wall cavities except under the main floor windows. Just a thought. What are you doing with the windows, anyway?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

To do this right:

1 Control moisture
2 Air seal inside
3 Pull the clapboards
4 air seal & air / water barrier outside
5 Flip the clapboards over when you reinstall them (new paint surface)

Blow in, foam, board, whatever kind of insulation. They can all be done effectively. Moisture control and air sealing are the most important - if you don't do that, don't insulate.

If you're having paint problems so fast, chances are you have a moisture control / water barrier problem or a major prep / paint issue - you can tell by looking at the paint failure mode.


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## Red Adobe (Jul 26, 2008)

That so-called insulated siding isnt what its cracked up to be......since the foam isnt locked and sealed. Its like putting up foam board and leaving an 1/8 inch gap at the edge then after shrinkage finding its almost a 3/16 inch. Id be more inclined to use r-max 1/2 foamboard and side over that giving an honest 3.8ish

As others said blown cellulose is a good option but it settles and leaves nothing at the top eventualy. ( my cabin was done 20 years ago and i found some that settled down almost 2 foot ) also found other areas that had blocking so none went below it. IR camera finds lots of unknowns

I havent looked in awhile but energystar.gov use to have info on weatherizing and writing the cost off of yout taxes


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

I do believe most of the new blow has something added/ mixed to it to make it not settle. That is what my insulation guy says anyhow. have never tore a wall back apart to find out.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

The good thing about a dense fill in an older house is it slows down air infiltration / movement in areas you can't easily get to. It also doesn't settle like lower density fills do. Downsides to any drill and fill: wires in the wall, existing insulation, blocking, junk dropped into the walls, corner braces, etc all conspire to make the job less than perfect.

Now is the perfect time of year to get someone out with a thermal imager to map out where the blocking, bracing, gross air leaks, etc are. I have one, and that's why I bought it. I use it on all major old house renos. I don't know how much hiring someone there would cost you, but they can be expensive.

FWIW, It's pretty common on old framing for lath and plaster to have interior walls that have no top plate. If they go into the attic open like that, you're going to lose a lot of heat.


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## Red Adobe (Jul 26, 2008)

In my house the problem was anywhere there was plumbing they made hole 5x larger then needed and never reinsulated or blocked up. 

I always tell people to start at the top and work down......
I start with roof venting , making sure the ceiling is properly sealed around all ductwork and plumbing then an R50 worth or insulation. This has a bigger result since you have a chimney effect with hot air rising drawing the cold upward

from there i look to the sunny side of the house in summer and the windows, if they are older then some solar tint can make a huge difference. It always amazes me how many people say they want alot of windows then have the blinds closed 99% of the time. The main thing is are the sealing up not just the window but around the casings. I pull alot of trim off and find large gaps that werent filled and cualked.

I have found that houses w/o wall insul can be managable with the above done and the cooling bills arent much more then new homes of = size. I dont think it would be so weel in cold climates where heating is more of the concern


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

When did you become a beer drinking pro Red?Did you go to school for that or just apprentice?:confused1:


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