# LP siding buckling check out the original photo



## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

builditguy said:


> Look at the butt joint, just below the circle top window. To me, from an internet picture, it looks tight.
> I'm not saying you didn't gap it, when you installed it, but it doesn't have a gap now.
> You can almost see the piece to the right, bowing, because it can't expand anymore.
> 
> ...


I was thinking the same but couldn't really tell on either pic if the gap is correct. I know from my supplier the gap is the main installation mistake in any type of Smartside.

To the OP is that piece that looks water stained off the house? Is water getting trapped behind the siding? Did you use a vapor barrier?


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Of course the gap isn't right, it's expanded and closed the gap, then buckled. These aren't photos of fresh after install.


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

Golden view said:


> Of course the gap isn't right, it's expanded and closed the gap, then buckled. These aren't photos of fresh after install.




Yes. That’s what I see. Probably/possibly installed with a 3/16 gap, but then expanded to close the gap and kept expanding, causing the siding to bow. 

As to why it expanded, so much, I don’t think we can tell from the pictures. 
Could be water, but the pieces of LP I’ve seen exposed to water, doesn’t affect them. At least not in the short term. Which this is. 


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## rescraft (Nov 28, 2007)

On the spec sheet, the gap you said they listed-3/16"--was that for a particular limit in length? Like 8', 12', or 16' pieces?


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## META (Apr 9, 2015)

Is there a significant exterior temperature difference between the install and the buckling period? 

Was the house new construction, or had latent water in the walls prior to install?

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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

avenge said:


> Found this in lap siding instructions
> 
> • Foundations 76 Series and Architectural Collection 76 series
> primed colonial lap siding is not warranted against buckling in
> ...


No wonder we don't use it here.
Looks like the siding was very dry when installed and now is very wet and has expanded. If it was painted properly I don't see how that can happen but it has. Seems almost like it needed to sit out and get acclimatized before install like flooring.


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## yachtwork (Jan 1, 2020)

Thanks for the ideas. The siding was installed in the hot dry summer. The house was 20 years old and the old siding, a very similar product had come to bits so it was removed. The house had been wrapped and we added a second layer of house wrap over the old wrap. The house felt very dry when we put on the new siding. I am now looking for what step we should take to rectify and save the situation. My best guess at this point is to reach in with a sawzall and cut out a kerf that will allow the siding to lay flat. Any other thoughts on what I should do next? Thanks again.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I would use a multi tool instead, cleaner. You can customize a blade to get under the laps.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

I'm betting that isn't LP's Smartside-looks nothing like the current stuff. I've seen a masonite back that looks similar to OP's photo

re: smooth Smartside, pretty sure I recently read LP just reintroduced smooth to the market this year.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

given the issues you have, after a relief kerf is cut, face nailing may be necessary.


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## Rooster Cogburn (Jun 29, 2016)

How did you nail it? What is the reveal?


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## yachtwork (Jan 1, 2020)

*Nailed with gun*

The planks were nailed on every stud at 16" with the nails they gave me at the shop where we bought the siding. We used an air a nail gun. The nails looked right and we set the gun so they were just flush when nailed. We marked the OSB/paper with a red crayon to mark the studs. If I missed a stud I could see the nail went too deep into the siding and I could try again to find the stud so I think we did pretty good on getting the nails into the studs.


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## META (Apr 9, 2015)

ZIP panels are also made with better adhesives, and an OSB derivative. If it gets moisture in it, it has tremendous power to expand and buckle. It is much more "rigid" than standard OSB even after becoming wet; it doesn't compress well.

I suspect this is very similar material, and agree with needing to face nail any material with relief cuts (or replacing), as it likely will not lay back down nicely.

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## Rooster Cogburn (Jun 29, 2016)

You are probably going to have to face nail it.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

I would just replace the pieces, at least cut it out past the bowed areas and stagger the joint. Either way still might need to face nail.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

What is the "fiber" version made of? What kind of fiber, never heard of it.

They use a lot of the wafer Smartside around here. If I was to reside my own place, I would probably use it if I didn't do vinyl.

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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

VinylHanger said:


> What is the "fiber" version made of? What kind of fiber, never heard of it.
> 
> They use a lot of the wafer Smartside around here. If I was to reside my own place, I would probably use it if I didn't do vinyl.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It’s similar looking to the stuff they make pegboard out of.

I have a piece of 4x8 I’ll try to dig out and take pics of.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

Here’s a picture I just found online: 


And the article that it was attached to:


http://www.startribune.com/problems-with-lp-smartside-installations/330824331/


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Oh man, no way would I use that around here. That looks a lot like masonite type siding.

We used to get mushrooms growing out of that stuff around here.

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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> No wonder we don't use it here.
> 
> Looks like the siding was very dry when installed and now is very wet and has expanded. If it was painted properly I don't see how that can happen but it has. Seems almost like it needed to sit out and get acclimatized before install like flooring.




Acclimating is kind of the conclusion I have come too. And leaving a gap.


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