# anyone use this product yet...(sheathing)



## mtp (Feb 13, 2005)

I just used the zip wall on a commercial building the engineer wouldn't except it on the roof because Hubber wouldn't certify it for commercial use. I would use it again in a heartbeat. I have been using advantex t&g for years fur subfloor cant compete


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

i saw a building in our area, large office type building but looks like residential housing, the roofers were papering over the orange panels. i almost stopped in to find out why they were doing that.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

ApgarNJ said:


> i got quoted 11 bucks and change for the wall sheathing, 7/16s they call it, which is what real 1/2 plywood measures anyways. then the true 1/2 for the roof panels were more, but i forget the exact number.
> 
> 11 bucks is cheaper than 1/2 cdx is here in NJ.
> 
> i'm going to order a skid soon, and see if my yard can keep some there for me and i have it delivered as i need it for each job. my roofer sometimes uses it when he reskins jobs with old roof boards that aren't getting ripped off.


I know this is an old ass post, but how did you make out with that? I imagine you are talking about Niece when you say 'Your Lumber Yard'. They always seem like nice people. Did they hold it for you? Did you think about buying a skid and then telling them if they need to they can sell some of and give you credit for it or something?


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

TBFGhost said:


> I know this is an old ass post, but how did you make out with that? I imagine you are talking about Niece when you say 'Your Lumber Yard'. They always seem like nice people. Did they hold it for you? Did you think about buying a skid and then telling them if they need to they can sell some of and give you credit for it or something?


i never ended up using it. they arent stocking it. i would like to use it on a project someday though.


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

*Do not ever let the edges get wet*

I have some on a project that ended up with the bottom edge touching water (we had a really bad few days of rain/snow a few weeks back).

I had the stuff all nailed 4/12 edge/field with 3" .131 HDG nails, and taped as required by the manufacturer, but with the direct water contact from all the rain that flooded the area, the panels have swelled up and are buckling in between the stud bays (16" o.c.). It looks like azz.

Just be sure to install it dry and tape the seams as you go. Then get your finished veneer (shingle, standing seam, siding, brick, stone, whatever) installed asap.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

wallmaxx said:


> I have some on a project that ended up with the bottom edge touching water (we had a really bad few days of rain/snow a few weeks back).
> 
> I had the stuff all nailed 4/12 edge/field with 3" .131 HDG nails, and taped as required by the manufacturer, but with the direct water contact from all the rain that flooded the area, the panels have swelled up and are buckling in between the stud bays (16" o.c.). It looks like azz.
> 
> Just be sure to install it dry and tape the seams as you go. Then get your finished veneer (shingle, standing seam, siding, brick, stone, whatever) installed asap.


 
Oops! So much for my curiosity. I wont touch the stuff now, Im stcking with doug fir plywood.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

wallmaxx said:


> I have some on a project that ended up with the bottom edge touching water (we had a really bad few days of rain/snow a few weeks back).
> 
> I had the stuff all nailed 4/12 edge/field with 3" .131 HDG nails, and taped as required by the manufacturer, but with the direct water contact from all the rain that flooded the area, the panels have swelled up and are buckling in between the stud bays (16" o.c.). It looks like azz.
> 
> Just be sure to install it dry and tape the seams as you go. Then get your finished veneer (shingle, standing seam, siding, brick, stone, whatever) installed asap.


what do you do on the gable ends where the sheathing gets cut. does that get taped over and onto the framing of the rake? so no weather gets to the edge?


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Another thing to think about is that your drainage plane is totally relying on tape. Not lapped felt or typar. I would be very worried about the tape not holding up over time and causing a leak. Plus the whole OSB thing with holding fasteners. I don't think that Advantech holds fasteners very well myself.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

I don't think any particleboard type plywood is any good, but i would be willing to try this and just put ice/water in the valleys like we would normally do. that would act like one big thick row of tape. once the roof is on. i don't think you ever want to rely on the plywood or paper below it to keep it from leaking with all the holes that get put in roof paper, it's really just there to keep the shingles from sticking to the plywood. and a vapor barrier.


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

If you are going to leave it exposed...this product will have issues.

Any place in the field where your nails sink a bit below the surface the OSB swells...so as you look up at the roof, in the right light, you'll see bumps in the field of the plywood.

The edges are taped where they butt...but the bottom of the first row is just hanging there. As water runs down the outer surface it ends up hanging on the bottom edge...it SWELLS. I think Huber could fix this by encapsulating the edges in the same coating as on the face edge.

Point is...it works for as few days exposed...but DO NOT let any OSB edge get wet, and DO NOT overdrive your nails in the field (or you will be cutting small pieces of tape to cover each over driven nail..


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

i don't see the advantage. all the time spent on tape and taping. etc. you could just paper the whole roof or wall in.


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