# Questions for the paint GURU?



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Mr. Bill*

A question?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*a paper Q?*

I love wall papering. It's relaxing.


----------



## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

George Z said:


> Wrong!
> 
> Behr makes one line only, and it has been a colossal mistake


Ditto that!


----------



## STUMPFOOT (Aug 25, 2006)

Mr. Booger, Can you help me with these conundrums:


If Jimmy cracks corn and no one cares, why is there a song about him?


Why does mineral water that has "trickled through mountains for centuries" go out of date next year?


If the professor on Giligan's Island can make a radio out of coconut, why can't he fix a hole in a boat?

Why do people point to their wrist when asking for the time, but people don't point to their crotch when they ask where the bathroom is?


Can blind people see their dreams?


Why do they call it "getting your dog fixed" if afterwards it doesn't work anymore?

Why do they call it taking a dump? Shouldn't it be leaving a dump?

Where in the nursery rhyme does it say humpty dumpty is an egg?

Why do they sterilize needles for lethal injections?


If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?

Why does Donald Duck wear a towel when he comes out of the shower, when he doesn't usually wear any pants?


If a cat always lands on its feet, and buttered bread always lands butter side down, what would happen if you tied buttered bread on top of a cat?

If the #2 pencil is the most popular, why's it still #2?

What color would a smurf turn if you choked it?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

If you get overspray on the bottom of a cabinet ... shouldn't it be called "underspray"? Yes. :jester: 

If the drywaller used screws, shouldn't they be called "screw-pops"? Yes. :jester:


----------



## George Z (Dec 23, 2004)

> Simply telling me that BEHR is no good doesn't describe the problems encountered with the product.
> 
> Many products behave diferently depending on how they are aplied.
> 
> What was the problem? What were the expectations? And what climat was it used in?




We can make BEHR work, if we really have to.

1- Problems: Do a search. People here love it. Look for posts by _some guy named Slickshift._

2- It is sold by the Devil :devil: As a principle, they won't get our money.


----------



## Zip (Oct 20, 2005)

paint_booger said:


> I am the paint GURU. Any questions?


Here goes...are you a painter, painting contractor, material manufacturer?...in business?...how long?
I've been giving prices of how much, then painting, or having painted resi & comm for about 40 yrs and I still don't get the fact that regardless of paperwork, some people just can't be trusted.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

First painted as a kid - 10 yrs old. A few times.

Painted parents house at 13 - little by little Not very good, but free.
It was a chore.

Painted for neighbors at 15.

Foreman for a small nonunion company at 18.

Started my own company at 20. 

Grew it to 25 painters and a couple office people by 30.

Hundreds (thousands?) of estimates.

Divorce dismantled the company - been running all kinds of union jobs since.

I've seen all sides to the business, and done just about everything. I'm not a fan of stage work - painting the exterior of sky scrapers. I'm more comfortable with a brush or a pen in my hand.


----------



## George Z (Dec 23, 2004)

> Check the health hazard rating for BEHR. You could almost make plants grow with the stuff.


I heard that If you paint with it long enough, radishes sprout ouf of your ears...
They should list TDS and MSDS in their website like anyone else


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I've never had radishes grow out of my ears before, but my fingers did start turning a little pink while using their decking stain. I'm glad the deck wasn't any bigger. That may have been the first symptom.


----------



## furiousstyles (May 19, 2006)

Kudos to stumpfoot for a humor break!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Michelangelo finished painting the ceiling in the sistine chappel and gave the bill to the pope. The pope told him "I said Two Coats!"


----------



## Paul_R (Jan 22, 2007)

O Mighty Guru :notworthy:Thank you for the encouragement. I have borrowed a copy of "The E Myth Contractor" and have been reading it during my recuperation. It is a really good book. Now for some more questions. 

As you may know there seems to be a continuing debate over paint coverage, What are your ideas on one coat coverage?

How do you measure the thickness of paint film?

A local contractor is advertising in the classified adds that they use a "lifetime exterior paint-never paint again". What in the world is he smoking? Should I call and ask what brand it is? Or MYOB?

Salutations, eagerly awaiting your response. Paul :wheelchair:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Paul*

One coat coverage ...

Awesome for new construction primes using a dead flat. Our cost for SW CHB is $8 per gallon, and touch-up with the dead flat is awesome. It makes good $ sense for the paint contractor during new construction, but it will bite into the repaint guy. The walls are just plain "THIRSTY". The repaint guy will walk in thinking 10 gallons, and burn up 15 to 20. And if it's an eggshell or better ... 2 coats.

As far as film thickness ... 

I believe you are talking about "wet film thickness". Many contractors have requirements as to the wet film thickness, and angle of refraction for the gloss levels you use. You can get a wet filmthickness gauge from your local Sher Wms store. It looks like a metal credit card with grooves around the edges. You spray and backroll the drywall, then push the card on the surface. The grooves are different depths, and the depth of your paint coat will be evident by the lack of paint on the recessed edge. Imagine a hair comb with teath of different lenghts. Say 1/8 inch incraments. Measure the depth of your shag carpet in incraments of 1/8 inch. Same as the wet paint but it is measured in microns. 1 inch = 25.4 microns. A 7 mil wet film is plenty.

Lifetime exterior paint ...

I have a bridge I want to sell you. Let me tell you a story about when I was an "expert witness" for a small clames law suit. The painter gave a 7 year guarantee against chipping on a house that was 80 years old. After 3 years the window glaze and paint was chipping ... as we all would figure. The judge used me as a tool to gauge the amount of work it would take to return the house to the condition it was in 3 years prior. "What % would be scraping? What % would be sanding? What % would be priming?" ... and so on. When we were done with those questions, the judge asked me if I had any comments. 

I said, "It wasn't this guy's paint that chipped, it was the guy's paint that was aplied in the 1950's that chipped. This painter's paint is still sticking to the paint chips. (The guy who paid me to be a witness turned thao blue.) 

"But he guaranteed 7 years without chipping. 

"I would have only done that if I charged tripple to begin with, or guaranteed MY PAINT not to chip. His contract just says "_*chipping*_". Go figure!" Judge gave my client $3000.

Your lifetime guarantees are as good as the LLC that writes them.

Get well Paul.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

It was a bizare question ... 

being asked to be an "Expert witness" in a small claims case ... 

but the guy who owned the house was a lawyer,

and payed me a fee ($200)

which was done before my testomony, 

and entered it into the court records ... 

I said ... what the hell ... half a day (1991) ... 200 bucks ... lets go.

Kind of flattering ... being in the right place at the right time helps.

Put that on your resumee ... LOL.


----------



## Ranger Rohland (Jan 28, 2005)

paint_booger said:


> I am the paint GURU. Any questions?


Paint Guru,

Questions:

1. Do you use a crystal ball?

2. Is there anything you don't know about painting?

3. Do you know the Shell Answer Man?

4. What would it cost to hire you fulltime as the "GURU"?


Tom Rohland, Jr.
Ranger Painting & Pressure Cleaning, Inc.
Lake Mary, Florida


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

1) No.
2) Yes.
3) He's chained to the wall in the basement at BP.
4) The real question is, "How much would you make by having me as your full time guru." :thumbsup:


----------



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

guru, please answer my question in this thread

http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=23511


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Try these 2 links.

http://www.archpainting.com/ask_a_pro/chalking.htm

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro...ms_paints/masonry_products/print/index_p2.jsp


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Plazaman,

I must admit your questions are in the grey areas of my memory. Its been 15 years since I've done that kind of work. Although I do remember it well. Just make sure all of the h2o has worked it's way out before you prime. You don't want to lock it in (it will find it's way out.) I used Ben Moore products ... even had the BM guy come out to set me up with the right stuff.

From what I read, and what I researched last night ... you are on the right track! Those products all look like winners. One little tip though, call the SW district mngr, and have him set you up with the exact product you need. Doing that releases you of the liability if anything goes wrong. I'm all about "differing liability and creating credibility". Your customer wont think you are clueless ... on the contrary ... they will be very impressed by the fact that you want to do the very best for them! 

The SW guy will probably give you some free paint for the asking too. That's all they do ... drive around and promote their products. Make him feel like he's the know it all, and he'll smother you in free stuff.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Tom,

There is a plane leaving out of Ohare to Miami at 8pm. Should I be on it? Guru's tend to be "_fly by nigh" ... if the price is right_". LOL


----------



## KellyPainting (May 30, 2006)

*Alright, I'll play*

Paint Guru,
Are blind people affected by color? 
and if so, in what way?
And is there any proof?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Yes.
Bigotry affects everyone. 
It doesn't matter whether you are blind or not. 
If you don't have the same color skin as the racist ... he doesn't like you!
Color does affect even blind people (I'm sorry to say.)


----------



## KellyPainting (May 30, 2006)

your right.


More recently, studies have shown that colors can affect you when you don’t see them. Noted neuropsychologist Kurt Goldstein confirmed in his classic, The Organism, that a blindfolded person will experience physiological reactions under rays of different colors. In other words, the skin reads color, and our bodies, minds, and emotions respond.

Exactly how does this happen? Attached to the human brain is the pineal gland, which controls the daily rhythms of life. When light enters through the eyes or skin, it travels along neurological pathways to this pineal gland. Different colors give off different wavelength frequencies, and these different frequencies have different effects on us.

It’s not by chance that McDonald’s restaurants executives chose a golden color for their arches, and that employee uniforms of many successful fast food chains are a combination of yellow, range, and red. These colors, with some of the longest wavelengths, are known to stimulate the appetite. In fact, years ago, when Burger King changed the color of its employee uniforms to blue and green — colors reputed to suppress the appetite — sales went down considerably.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Ahhh, Psycology and science. One of my favorites!

The ancient Egyptians built temples for the sick that were bedecked with color and light. They set aside special colored rooms as sanctuaries where the sick could be bathed in lights of deep blue, violet, and pink. 

Native American Indians also used color for healing ... to fight chronic illness and to heal injuries sustained during buffalo hunts and intertribal warfare.

Research demonstrates that the full spectrum of daylight is needed to stimulate our endocrine systems properly.


----------



## JMGP (Mar 29, 2005)

How many licks does it take to get to the tootsie roll of a Tootsie Pop?



I can't believe I am participating in this.....


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I've never gotten there without crunching ...

The world may never know. :w00t:


----------



## Paul_R (Jan 22, 2007)

O Mighty Guru, :notworthy:. How would you approach painting an old half rusted chain link fence. The thing is about 10 feet high, and surrounds a pool at an apartment complex. Seems like I painted a chain link fence with a thick nap roller a lonnng time back. The maintenence genious there thought it might should be sprayed. :blink: Thanks, Paul. :wheelchair:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

It's been windy lately in Indiana. If your overspray insurance isn't paid up ... I'd go with the roller.


----------



## rpminc (Apr 25, 2007)

*Spray Tips*

I will be spraying my third project and figured it might be the right time to find out which Tip to be using in my sprayer..the sprayer I have is a Magnum XR-7 piston pump Gun Model SG-2 max working pressure is 3000 psi....

hoping not to get too technical with this post just looking for the right tips... for this project I will be spraying it is a garage... not sure what the stock tip is I think there are probably better ones out there though ...Thanks Guys RM


----------



## Tmrrptr (Mar 22, 2007)

*xr7*



rpminc said:


> I will be spraying my third project and figured it might be the right time to find out which Tip to be using in my sprayer..the sprayer I have is a Magnum XR-7 piston pump Gun Model SG-2 max working pressure is 3000 psi....
> 
> hoping not to get too technical with this post just looking for the right tips... for this project I will be spraying it is a garage... not sure what the stock tip is I think there are probably better ones out there though ...Thanks Guys RM


the little xr7 is really not much of a pump, if you didn't know that, already. But if has got you through 3 projects, it might have paid for itself by now, and that's the name of the game!

the 515 tip is pretty much the best place to start w residential.
with the xr7 you may need to thin the product a bit.
Always use strainer bags! and flush the pump out well after use.

When it dies, get a graco 390/395 or titan 440i and you will be able to do most anything but spray the heavy bodied products and you can rent a rig by the day for that, before spending serious bucks.
r


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

It looks like "The Califonia Kid" hopped in my seat as I was out investigating a product for a friend. Thanks Left coast. 

I'm thinking the boy needs a little education on the meaning of the numbers on spray tips, and the practical uses for each size. 

I'm not so sure using a 515 with a 440 would be the best idea (unless you are spraying block filler). The sprayer will have a hard time keeping up. 

First, I'm going to sugest getting an extention wand ($20-35) to get yourself closer to the ceiling. The low power sprayer you are using will exhaust your arm with the speed it pumps the paint out, and you will save your eyes some pain from the "White Rain". Second, drop it down to a 415. It will cause less wear and tear on your machine. 

Here is a hyperlink to teach you what size you need for every surface and every product.
http://magnum.graco.com/products/MagnumSelector.nsf/TipSelector?OpenForm

Remember to wear your mask. LIVE TO PAINT ANOTHER DAY!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Substitute GURUs need to help people, not flaunt their own knowledge. Thanks for helping out California.

GURU. :bangin:


----------



## Jethroe (Jan 27, 2007)

*I've heard enough*

Go on and flaunt ur own knowledge of nothingness. As far as I'm concerend you are a JOKE!! There you go BOOGER! a JOke I said!!!.
We all take this stuff seriously, I mean c-mon some guys like you who sit at the computer every day, day in and out and study all this carp where is your REAL field knowledge?? You probably forgot half of what you know while you drive around in your F -350 and employ people from across the border:no:
I'm a hands on guy and I'll make money without your help thanx..:thumbsup:
BTW paint booger If I've got something to say please dont post anything on my threads paint booger & This is the last post for you from me too..
I like all you guys but this is crapo:furious:


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Can anyone point out anything booger has said that would be wrong so far? Different from what some would advise maybe but wrong?? Diff strokes for diff folks and all that. Booger made a bold statement at the beginning among what are actually strangers. If he was too far off base, the flaming would have already begun. I, for one, am enjoying this thread. Take big bails to make that statement in a forum like this and seemingly follow through.


----------



## daArch (Jun 8, 2007)

Jethroe said:


> Go on and flaunt ur own knowledge of nothingness. As far as I'm concerned you are a JOKE!! There you go BOOGER! a JOke I said!!!.


But how do you REALLY feel?. 


> We all take this stuff seriously,


Careful about being GLOBAL. "ALL" means EVERYONE, and you certainly shouldn't speak for me




> You probably forgot half of what you know while you drive around in your F -350


Well if he knew TWICE as much once as he does now....well, I'm impressed




> I'll make money without your help thanx..:thumbsup:


Well, it's a free world, er, ah COUNTRY



> BTW paint booger If I've got something to say please don't post anything on my threads paint booger & This is the last post for you from me too..


You are definitely entitled to request that he not post anything on your threads. But likewise, he is entitled not to honor your request



> I like all you guys but this is crapo:furious:


And we like you too. "Crapo" is subjective. By the number of people replying, a good number do not share your outlook.

One thing I've learned about internet forums in the last 11 years, they are diverse and no one person can direct or dictate what goes on. I have found that if I do not like a person or a thread, I stay away from it. And if everyone wants the person to go away, then he is not answered. But apparently, by the number of responses, many people are enjoying the fun here. Personally, I wonder about paint_booger. My jury is still out. But if I find I do not think he is a valuable asset, then I'll ignore him. You oughta try it. You'll like it.

And a little fun in our lives is healthy. Can't be serious 24/7/365 Why should we not be able to lighten up here?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

TY b47k.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

TY Paper guy!


----------



## Paul_R (Jan 22, 2007)

Another question for Mr. Booger. This is a little off topic, but what the hey, eh? My wifey was talking on the phone tonight with her bro and I overheard her say WD40. I politely waited for her to finish her conversation, and then asked where the reference to WD40 came from. She told me that her brother who suffers from arthritis in his knees uses the widely known lubricant as a topical medicine for relief of symptoms! He told her that it penetrates to the joint and gives him up to two weeks of relief from pain and discomfort. Now have you ever heard of such a thing? If i didn't know better I would wonder what he had been smoking. Can this be? 

Happy Painting, Paul. :wheelchair:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

prosthetics ... YES.

artheritis ... NO.

I think they are up to something unusual ... not that there's anything wrong with that. :whistling

Here is the urban myth buster link for wd40 

http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp


----------



## lornmastro (Mar 17, 2006)

I personally think some of you guys are way too serious about this stuff. I personally got a big chuckle reading some of these reponses...thanks for the laughs:thumbup:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Thanks lorn. 

The negitivity people can take this thread and sew a button over their lips. 

I enjoy an informative debate, but it's hard to debate the topic of whether I'm an idiot or not. 

As soon as you think you know everything, you stop learning, and soon you realize you know nothing. 

GURU


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> artheritis ... NO


Sounds strange, but I will withhold judgement on that. The article stated some unintended uses may work but are not recommended by the manufacturer. I heard years ago that airplane mechanics discovered it helped them with arthritic hands. Don't know from personal experience.


----------



## Ranger Rohland (Jan 28, 2005)

paint_booger said:


> Tom,
> 
> There is a plane leaving out of Ohare to Miami at 8pm. Should I be on it? Guru's tend to be "_fly by nigh" ... if the price is right_". LOL




GOOOO-ROOOOOO,

LOL

Cool your jets.

I'm not convinced you're the GURU yet.


Only time will tell.


By the way, you're doing a fine job!

Pretty BIG shoes to fill though.

Don't you agree???????


Tom Rohland, Jr.
Ranger Painting & Pressure Cleaning, Inc.
Lake Mary, Florida


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I'm actualy flattered, because you only get critics and hate mail when you've gained respect and notoriety. 

Back to fun and games ...

The WD40 thing ... I'll bet there are plenty of other uses that haven't even been tried yet. 

I looked at my 5-in-1 one day, and changed it's name to a 27-in-1. I stopped at 27. I'll bet there are more.

GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Tom:*

The size of the shoe is never important. The road traveled in those shoes will show you who you really are. Each step forward shows progress. Each step to the side shows compromise. Each step backward shows lack of commitment.

I wear size 10 double wide steel toed tan Dickies boots, and they are full of paint.


----------



## Tmrrptr (Mar 22, 2007)

*Sometimes*

you can tell when you walk into the wrong bar...
r


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

you can tell when you walk into the wrong bar ...

when everyone is dressed like you, but they are all dancing to YMCA!


----------



## Workaholic (Feb 3, 2007)

LOL. Well paint guru you are getting closer to the million posts i see. 
I too enjoy this thread and do not understand why Jethroe is so pissed at you. I suggest you challenge him to a painting duel to the death.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Let's just give him the old "_brush-off"._


----------



## DelW (Jul 7, 2005)

Just let it roll off ya:laughing:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

:rockon:

I figure that subject has been _*covered*_, and if I _*drop*_ it and _*roll on*_ ... he'll _*cut it out*. :thumbup1:_


----------



## Zip (Oct 20, 2005)

Sir Paint Booger:
I also have been apinting for many years on a smaller scale in less populated areas. The one thing I can't figure out is: if you paint a hunting cabin in the forrest can you hear the paint dry?:w00t:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*"If love is blind, why do they make Lingerie?"*


It's a sales gimic, brother. 
If you go to a job interview, or do an estimate for a new client, you're going to clean yourself up, and wear your better clothes. 
Eventualy they realize you aren't that stud at the first meeting, but you do damn good work ... so they keep you.

It's also a self confidence booster.
For all you know, they would have hired you if you walked in with "Racoon Face" from a spray job. 
Just like Billy Crystal used to say ... "It's better to look good than to feel good. And my darling ... you look mahhhvelous!"
"Women need a reason to have sex. Men just need a place."
(Also Billy Crystal)
If they feel sexy ... that might be reason enough.

Also, in a recent study by researchers at Rutgers University (published in Health Psychology), a person’s appearance, as judged by others, was found to be a good barometer of their overall state of health.
Women do live longer than men.
Perhaps they know something we don't about fancy underware.

Billy Crystal's Mahvelous video on YouTube>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZl3gGV4H6c


GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*"... if you paint a hunting cabin in the forrest can you hear the paint dry?"*

If you use enough Jap Drier ... it will dry so fast that you can hear it for miles.

If you want to keep the noise from the paint drying down to an inaudible level ... use flotrol or penetrol. The paint will dry at a level that can not be heard by human ears. 

GURU


----------



## daArch (Jun 8, 2007)

Booger_GURU said:


> Women do live longer than men.


I thought the reason for that was discovered - Most men are married to women.

Now does that mean that gay men live longer than lesbian women ???

NTTIAWWT 
(Not that there is anything wrong with that







)


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*"Now does that mean that gay men live longer than lesbian women ???"*

It depends on which partner wears the pants, and which one wears the lingerie.


----------



## BMAN (Aug 21, 2006)

Back to the WD40, I thought that petroleum based products were carcinogens (spelling) I guess you have to decide what pain you want to die from?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

BMAN,

Very good point. I would advise against prolonged skin contact. Here is the hyperlink to WD40's MSDS Report >>

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/pdfs/msds-wd40_bulk.us.pdf

"Prolonged and/or repeated contact may produce mild irritation and defatting with possible dermatitis."

PAUL R ... I would tell your brother in law to quit the wd40 shenanigans.


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

Well...

It took me a number of years to learn that I didn't know ANYTHING about paint. I can remember the old days when I used to think of myself as some kind of expert... ha ha... It's so funny... 

In general, anyone who calls themself a guru is probably not. I guess you all knew that though... lol... There is at least some humor value to this post... 

Wolvie (who knows about 1% of anything about paint)

PS... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucosamine


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

The more you learn ... the more you realize how little you know. Eric, you are well on your way to reaching the rank of GURU yourself. 

Thanks for the hyperlink. It looks like the wd40 issue is still a bit of a contraversy. Here is a quote from the hyperlink below: 

" A popular myth has grown around the use of WD-40 as a joint lubricant and pain reliever for arthritis. The liquid is sprayed on the painful joint much as one would fix a squeaky mechanical hinge. To be used by the body, the substance must be absorbed through the skin. The thinner the skin, the more is absorbed.
 To date, no credible scientific studies have shown any benefit from the use of WD-40 for arthritis. In fact, there may be *cumulative harmful effects*. The manufacturer's warning indicates that contact with skin and vapors should be avoided. WD-40 contains petroleum distillates, as do gasoline and oil. Problems ranging from *mild skin rash to severe allergic reactions* have been reported. Prolonged exposure can cause *cancer* and other serious health problems.
 WD-40 has a documented dangerous synergism with insecticides, notably pyrethrin, the active ingredient in head lice medication and some dandruff shampoos. Pyrethrin is made from dried, concentrated powder of flowers from the chrysanthemum family. Both the natural pyrethrin and synthetic pyrethroid insecticides mimic the hormone estrogen, which causes cell proliferation. Misuse of these insecticides can result in proliferation of *breast cancer* cells as well as *endocrine disruption, kidney problems, and nerve damage*.
 Proponents of WD-40 may be experiencing a placebo effect or may realize some benefit from increased blood circulation in the affected area as the substance is massaged into the skin. Breathing the vapor may have a temporary pain-killing effect, but delicate linings in the *nose, throat, mouth, and lungs may be damaged*."

http://arthritis.about.com/gi/dynam...fection-connection.com/free_articles/wd40.htm


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

paint_booger said:


> I enjoy an informative debate, but it's hard to debate the topic of whether I'm an idiot or not.
> 
> As soon as you think you know everything, you stop learning, and soon you realize you know nothing.
> 
> *GURU*


Nuff said.

I looked through the thread............

Nuff said.


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

> Eric, you are well on your way to reaching the rank of GURU yourself.


lol... You have NO clue!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

If you've ever heard someone say, "I forgot more than you know." 

You probably rolled your eyes.

Then comes the day (many years later) when you are teaching something to a bright eyed "know it all" kid, and you realize it's your turn to say it.

Because, hell if you can remember half the stuff you've done, and this kid doesn't know jack. :no:

Nuff said.


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

paint_booger said:


> If you've ever heard someone say, "I forgot more than you know."
> 
> You probably rolled your eyes.
> 
> ...


I don't pick fights that much... couple few here and there, but your ask.com answers really get on my nerves.... this is a site of contractors not babies, there are no "wide eyed" people here that are so stoned they are trying to stay awake while you spout your gibberish. You claim to be a guru yet state people that do so are idiots... so you call yourself a self-proclaimed idiot. Fits well. 



paint_booger said:


> I am the paint GURU. Any questions?


I mean, come on.. we all know there are 15 ways to skin a cat, there is no such thing as a paint guru. Reminds me of a post from a deck man that claimed the same thing, he was laughed off the forum. You don't even know the problems with Behr, obviously you are just grabbing generic answers from the internet and posting as a pro. Give it up... please, or at least give a real answer. I suppose I am just allowing your post count to go up at this point so... end of story. Prove it or shut up.


----------



## Ranger Rohland (Jan 28, 2005)

Brushslingers said:


> I don't pick fights that much... couple few here and there, but your ask.com answers really get on my nerves.... this is a site of contractors not babies, there are no "wide eyed" people here that are so stoned they are trying to stay awake while you spout your gibberish. You claim to be a guru yet state people that do so are idiots... so you call yourself a self-proclaimed idiot. Fits well.
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, come on.. we all know there are 15 ways to skin a cat, there is no such thing as a paint guru. Reminds me of a post from a deck man that claimed the same thing, he was laughed off the forum. You don't even know the problems with Behr, obviously you are just grabbing generic answers from the internet and posting as a pro. Give it up... please, or at least give a real answer. I suppose I am just allowing your post count to go up at this point so... end of story. Prove it or shut up.



BULL Slinger,

I'm R O T F L M A O!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That should stir up the pot a little bit.



Hey man, Go with the flow............
Take a couple of DEEP BREATHS.
Sit down. Put your feet up.

RELAX!



IMO Booger-breath is just having fun. And so is everyone else.

Don't spoil it!



I'm sure he wouldn't mind sharing the "GURU" title with you. 

Just ask him. 

:laughing:


Tom Rohland, Jr.
Ranger Painting & Pressure Cleaning, Inc.
Lake Mary, Florida

I'm designing a contraption that will help get panties unwadded. You interested in one???????????

But then again, you may just want to cut those suckers off and throw them away.:whistling

HOOAH


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Heh, Tom i'm not interested in a guru title... but like in the past, and in the future... this is a profession, joking is one thing but anyone in this business will tell you horror stories about people that claim they have been painting forever, and ruin a contract/house whathaveyou. Problem is, someone like that will find the RIGHT anon person drifting through that really IS wideeyed and will take his "advice" seriously... then one of us will have to fix it for them. 

I like the bullslinger title though... thanks!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

"Do not pay any attention to that man behind the curtain! I am the GURU!" 

We worked on that "Tin-Man" problem (WD40). 

We took care of that "Lion" problem (confidence with trying new things).

I'm thinking you are the "Scare Crow" (no heart).

Learn to enjoy what you do ... don't just walk through the profession with all the facts and figures in your little book. Love it, and live it! Learn to twirl the brush, and flip it in the air ... like it is a part of you. Become one with your tools, and paint blind folded for fun every once in a while. 

Life is short. Showmanship on the job site shows that you love what you do. Don't take everything so seriously. 

BTW > I am that good!


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Well i'll tell you what booger, since i'm a retired master from the union... how bout you give me your local and i'll be cool with you. As I said before, put up or shut up.


----------



## ThreadKiller (Apr 13, 2007)




----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

DC14 Local 180 

And you?


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Your in Chicago.... me 1961, though it's been years.

I'll do as Threadkiller suggests however, I will warn you.. there are people watching that already think they can do it themselves... ever bother to look at the anon population? This is OUR profession, spouting ask.com answers to questions without knowing the backsides only makes the profession that already is the brunt of jokes worldwide worse... not only do we have to deal with people saying we are all ex-cons, drug addicts or acholics... it's mostly true. By putting moronic threads like this on a public website only makes it worse. Your stealing food from my children. I'm out.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

The thread took a hair-pin turn when Jethroe got goofy. Any questions that don't revolve around WD40 would be awesome! I agree that this thread has degenerated. 

Let's pick up where it left off, and ask a question about P A I N T. 

Any one?


----------



## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

paint_booger said:


> DC14 Local 180
> 
> And you?


where's that hall located? I know Chicago but actual address?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

coming over for dinner?


----------



## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

paint_booger said:


> coming over for dinner?


Sure, its not 87th & Kedzie? or is that another local I am thinking of?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Naw ... Berwyn ... A nice Italian neighborhood. 

Go Cubs!

Go Bears!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Let's get serious. PAINT QUESTIONS ONLY, PLEASE.


----------



## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

paint_booger said:


> Naw ... Berwyn ... A nice Italian neighborhood.
> 
> Go Cubs!
> 
> Go Bears!


Last time I checked the Italians were moving out of Cicero and Berwyn! Should be lots of Taco stands in that area now!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Oh Great Paint Guru... hear my cry!!* 
So... what is your prefered method for cleaning china bristol brushes after painting with oil?? Seems I can never get mine as clean as my aresenol of latex brushes.

I welcome anyone's suggestion on this. But I *really* want to tap the "paint guru's" professional position on this.:blink:

steve

My example of what the GURU thread is all about!

Steve,

First ... I always tell my kids starting out that you need to treat your tools better than your woman ... unless their woman make more money. 

Remember that a china bristle brush is like a woman's hair. You just gunked it up. Now you need to clean it. Don't skimp on the thinner. 

Use a clean can, pour the thinner in, and pounce it to the stock. Clean the bottom of the bucket with the bristles before you dump the thinner. Spin the brush with your hands (not a spinner). Empty the can again. Do this 3 times, then hold the brush up-side-down, and pour some thinner into the bristles. (if you pour thinner into the bristles when it is a "virgin brush" it will help prime it ... do it first next time.) 

Keep pouring thinner into the stock, and pouncing until the thinner is almost clear. Pouring thinner up the bristles is important, because the thinned out paint that worked it's way up the stock will drift down into the bristles, and harden as the brush dries. 

Massage the bristles with your hands a little, and "feel the love". That brush feeds your mouth and pays your rent. Massage it! It takes care of you ... you take care of it! 

If you lost your cover, take some paper, and wrap it around the metal stock, tape the paper to the metal, wrap it tight, then fold it to hold it's form, and tape it closed. 

Treat your tools like you treat your woman ... unless you treat her like she's just a tool ... then treat your tools better. 

And remember ... safety first ... thinner is flamable ... summer heat makes your car a good place for a fire to start. Ventelate, or bring wet oil brushes in for the night.

Good painting Steve.

GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Chicanoland is one of the best places to do buisness, and the union is strong here brother!

I'm in that local, cause I live waaayyyy west.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

If I can help ... that's the goal of this thread. Chalange my credentials, my wit, my knowledge of the profession ... why not ... I love to have fun at work ... but I can help you if you have a REAL question!


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

> mean, come on.. we all know there are 15 ways to skin a cat, there is no such thing as a paint guru.


I disagree... because... I KNOW paint gurus... The question is what level of knowledge does it take to be considered a paint guru? 

What I am sure of is that if you are a self-proclaimed guru it is probably because you are really an idiot! I would say that for me to consider anyone a paint guru they would have to:

1) Have the respect of their peers
2) Have been published in paint journals like MP (Materials Performance) or JPCL (Journal of Protective Coatings and Linings) or other advanced coatings journals
3) Know aspects of application of a majority of coatings types and end uses 
4) Be a certified coatings inspector
5) Understand polymer synthesis
6) Understand coatings formulations for a majority of chemistries
7) Hold patents

This list is not all inclusive... I think it is kind of basic... Obviously, I haven't even mentioned holding an advanced degree...

So, I think anyone who has at least those 7 qualifications is at least on their way to being a guru. Everyone can't be a guru... I wouldn't call myself one even though I meet alot of those qualifications. BUT, I do know ALOT of people that meet those qualifications. 

So, I guess my only questions is... what are your guru qualifications?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I would say that *for me* to consider anyone a paint guru they would have to:

The key words are "FOR ME".

Who are you to proclaim standards?

Got a question?


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

So, you don't meet any of those?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

your Question About Paint Is?


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Careful booger, eric can dunk you quick... though I promised to stay off it... careful where you tread.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Your question is "do I meet YOUR criteria?" 

You still have no question about paint? I think you must know it all or have nothing better to do than post nonsense.


----------



## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

hehehe... ok eric, ask a question about paint eh?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

And, guys. This thread isn't for you all to extort it by chalenging my credentials ... open your own thread called "Calling out the GURU on facts" if you want. 

I just want to help people with problems. 

I've never met a painter that thought he wasn't the best ... till he grew up!


----------



## Paintpimp (Nov 15, 2006)

*Thermal shock?*

Ok guru's. Have any of you witnessed thermal shock on paint? In all my years I have seen it twice. It is so rare, that when you explain in to them they look at you like :blink:. How have you explained it to your customers?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Have any of you witnessed thermal shock on paint?

NOPE!


----------



## painter77 (Sep 22, 2005)

I think guru has the typical wisdom that comes with age. My question is: In how many more years will you celebrate your 100th birthday? 

Okay, I actually have a question about paint: Most latex paints are recommended by manufacturers to be recoated after 4-8 hours, and some painters like to let the first coat dry overnight and recoat the next day. I often second-coat when the first coat looks dry enough (usually between 30-60 mins for flat/satin finish), and even third-coat in the same day --and so far have encountered no problem whatsoever regarding paint application or final look.. So the question is: Is there anything that I don't know or see resulting from the inadequate drying time between coats? Thanks.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I like to use the 1.5 coat system. Years ago, an old timer used to yell (so the client could hear) "Give it 2 coats." As he held one finger up and winked. 

I learned that rolling out about 10 feet, then re-rolling that 10 feet (with half as much paint) as it was almost dry, saved me from 2 coating many times. I call that giving it "One-and-a-half coats". I use a little more paint than you would by back rolling. I think this works best with the lower level of glosses. 

When you are dealing with a semi-gloss or better, a true 2 coats is best. I let it dry beyond "to the touch. It will prevent the risk of flashing, and if you jump on it again too quick, the first coat will lift and peal. Nothing is worse than dealing with a semi-gloss pealing from a pin hole to a one foot circle! The higher the gloss level is, the longer you should let it dry.

With oil ... let it dry as long, or longer than the can says. You can experience "alligatoring" and massive paint failure if you rush it. Multiple thin coats is better than one thick one.

I would never tell anyone to disreguard the manufacturer's specifications. But, with flat latex paint, I haven't experienced a problem with it.

GURU


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

> Ok guru's. Have any of you witnessed thermal shock on paint? In all my years I have seen it twice. It is so rare, that when you explain in to them they look at you like :blink:. How have you explained it to your customers?


I'll answer the question first just in case any of you with A.D.D. need to move on to the next one... lol. 

Yes... we see thermal shock issues all of the time. Here is how I would explain it to a homeowner. I would ask them if they have ever put a cold glass dish into a hot oven and seen it break? Even if they have not, most people know that glass cookware has to be tempered to be 'oven safe' or 'microwave safe'... When something that is cold (or ambient temperature) is shocked with sudden heat it expands rapidly. The problem is that everything has a different coefficient of thermal expansion at a given temperature. If the substance in question expands at a fast rate than it can expand faster than the CTE will allow, so... it will break. This is not so much about heat resistance. The exact same material might be fine at the higher temperature if it is brought to that temperature slowly so that the expansion rate is gradual. 

We just sent out an order today for a 2000 ft2 floor that is failing due to thermal shock at a major US Pharmaceutical factory. The company has a 16,000 Liter process tank used to make IV solutions. They have to sanitize their floor and the tank on a regular schedule. So, they dump 190-205F water on the (air conditioned) floor that contains sodium hydroxide and bleach. The floor is polymer modified fiber reinforced concrete with a 1/4" nominal troweled urethane mortar (from Valspar) that is failing. There are microcracks everywhere where the PU mortar has pulled away from itself. 

To combat thermal shock you need to have a coating with high flexibility but a low modulus. In other words, it has to stretch like a rubber band but not be spongy like one... 

I have to run...

Oh... Jack... I'll try to answer your question over the weekend... there is/are good reasons to WAIT!


----------



## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

Hey Wolverine was that a Valspar jab??


----------



## KellyPainting (May 30, 2006)

I sometimes put a second coat on when the latex is dry to the touch,
not full curred. I call it a wet coat. I did it today on an apartment.
you can get away with it.


----------



## Jerry Crumley (Jun 29, 2007)

Looking for sq. ft. pricing for interior painting


----------



## painter77 (Sep 22, 2005)

Thanks, P_B

Yes I know about the 1.5 coat system (often combined with another system, 1:2, or '1 cut 2 rolls'..) The coverage and evenness of course are not as good as 2 full coats in many cases.. I always prefer the 2.0 system, just to be safe. 

On another note, at home I like to use the 7.1 system.. When listening to music, of couse, not painting... 
_____________

_"Looking for sq. ft pricing for interior painting"_
It depends on which coating system you're gonna use: 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, or 3.0. And brand of paint. If it's Behr, $20/sq.ft.  
Just j/k. I don't know the answer, but welcome, JC.
_____________
Hi Eric, thanks in advance..


----------



## Paintpimp (Nov 15, 2006)

Wolverine-Eric said:


> I'll answer the question first just in case any of you with A.D.D. need to move on to the next one... lol.
> 
> Yes... we see thermal shock issues all of the time. Here is how I would explain it to a homeowner. I would ask them if they have ever put a cold glass dish into a hot oven and seen it break? Even if they have not, most people know that glass cookware has to be tempered to be 'oven safe' or 'microwave safe'... When something that is cold (or ambient temperature) is shocked with sudden heat it expands rapidly. The problem is that everything has a different coefficient of thermal expansion at a given temperature. If the substance in question expands at a fast rate than it can expand faster than the CTE will allow, so... it will break. This is not so much about heat resistance. The exact same material might be fine at the higher temperature if it is brought to that temperature slowly so that the expansion rate is gradual.
> 
> ...


Thank you for replying to my question. That is a good way of explaining it. I had an aircraft hanger that was coated with wb dryfall, the building never got totally enclosed (general promised it would be), several months later it reached minus 25 degrees and when the sun came up and heated up the noninsulated roof, it sounded as if a hundred shotguns fired. Dryfall everywhere. 

Now I know who the REAL guru is, Thank you Wolv


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Thermal shock? *
*Ok guru's. Have any of you witnessed thermal shock on paint? In all my years I have seen it twice. It is so rare, that when you explain in to them they look at you like :blink:. How have you explained it to your customers?*

I'll have to admit that I WAS in the same boat with you on this one Pimp. Wolfy did a pretty good job of explaining it. Kudos. While I have heard of thermal shock, I have rarely dealt with the issue at work. 

Thermal shock is the name given to cracking as a result the stress from a rapid temperature change. I may have dealt with the problem before, and never recognized the actual issue. Thanks Eric!

GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Jerry Crumley said:


> Looking for sq. ft. pricing for interior painting


Jerry, that is a tough question to answer here, due to the geographical size of this forum. The price per sq ft can vary from region to region. I'm from Chicago, and I can charge a lot more than in rural areas. I discussed doing some work in Michigan (where unemployment is a HUGE deal), and they were willing to undercut me by almost half. I would say your range is 20 cents to 35 cents.

It also depends on the builder. If you are dealing with a nationaly renown corporation, they may require a union affiliation and a low experience mod for worker's compensation. If you are in the boonies, and it is a small time builder, he may just want a cheap "splash and dash". 

GURU


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

New one to me. Off subject, but I experienced the effects when I was teenager and sprayed cold water on the windshield of my '57 Chevy on a hot Alabama day !


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

That must have been a real _*"drag"*_!


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

> Hey Wolverine was that a Valspar jab??


Well... not really... I mainly wanted to point out that it was not OUR product that was failing... 

However... now that I think about it... Valspar could probably use some jabbing!



> Okay, I actually have a question about paint: Most latex paints are recommended by manufacturers to be recoated after 4-8 hours, and some painters like to let the first coat dry overnight and recoat the next day. I often second-coat when the first coat looks dry enough (usually between 30-60 mins for flat/satin finish), and even third-coat in the same day --and so far have encountered no problem whatsoever regarding paint application or final look.. So the question is: Is there anything that I don't know or see resulting from the inadequate drying time between coats? Thanks.


This answer is not going to be 'all-inclusive'... just going to touch on it a bit... Early recoating can cause premature coating failure. This can range anywhere from a simple loss of gloss or even sometimes the second coat can delaminate from the first coat. It is always best to follow the directions that the manufacturer gives (kind of like it is always best to listen to our wives as well). 

Why? Well, it is because of what you can't see but is still happening. There are cosolvents and water in your latex. If you apply a second coat before the co-solvents and water can get out you can end up trapping them in there. When the solvents force their way out through a weak semi-dry film the result is pinholes. Some people might tell you that it's ok because they (cosolvents) can still escape through the wet film phase of the second coat. However, that is not always (and probably usually) not true. The recoat time is based on how long it should take for the co-solvents/water to escape from the film if it is applied at the thickest point of the recomendation range and how long it takes to acheive stable film formation afterwards. If you apply a thinner coat then you can usually recoat faster. Also, temperature... humidity... paint viscosity... thixotropy... and the age of the paint can make a difference. 

Think about what happens if you leave the lid off of a gallon of paint for awhile. The top might dry and feel hard. However, if you poke a screwdriver in it you will find wet paint underneath. The same thing is happening on a micro-level on the wall in a much less dramatic fashion. The 'wet stuff' is going to want to get out!

Again, there are SO many variables that affect/effect the stable film formation of your latex. Thickness, time, temperature, and humidity are the main factors.

Thickness: thick films need more time
Temperature: Cold temeratures need more time
Humidity: High humidity needs more time

So, as a general rule:
If you are appying a thin coat in hot dry weather then you should be able to recoat faster without any issues...

If you are applying a thick coat in cold and humid weather... take some extra time between coats... 

Last, 


> Now I know who the REAL guru is, Thank you Wolv


While I appreciate your kind comments, I would hesitate to call me a guru. That was my whole point to booger... here is the definition of a guru from answers.com:


> An advisor or teacher. The term, which comes from Hinduism, refers to a spiritual teacher. "Gu" means darkness, and "ru" means light; thus a guru turns ignorance into enlightenment. In the west, the term has been interpreted quite often as simply an expert in a field whether that person helps you learn or understand anything or not.


You just can't call yourself a paint guru unless you know so much that you are an expert in all things paint. I think that for any of us to call ourselves experts here in our little community, there better not be anyone else in such a small community that is more knowledgeable than 'the guru'. You see, the word itself from the Hindu or Tibetan refers to THE teacher. There was only one teacher. The guru was the ONE who knew the most. 

So, while I have a pretty extensive and impressive paint resume, I'm just not arrogant enough to call myself a guru. Someone who I would consider a paint guru would be:
Clive H. Hare


----------



## Zip (Oct 20, 2005)

Booger
You rounded the hedge row when you answered my question. I said nothing about midifing the paint with Japan dryer.
And yes I can twirl & flip my brushes.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Eric, 

I think you realy know your stuff, and I always value your oppinion because you back it up with the scientific side of things; but, I'm thinking you left a few people in the *dark* by over explaining. I'm pretty sure I said close to the same thing with out all the heavy chemistry and physics.

*"When you are dealing with a semi-gloss or better, a true 2 coats is best. I let it dry beyond "to the touch. It will prevent the risk of flashing, and if you jump on it again too quick, the first coat will lift and peal. Nothing is worse than dealing with a semi-gloss pealing from a pin hole to a one foot circle! The higher the gloss level is, the longer you should let it dry.

With oil ... let it dry as long, or longer than the can says. You can experience "alligatoring" and massive paint failure if you rush it. Multiple thin coats is better than one thick one.

I would never tell anyone to disreguard the manufacturer's specifications. But, with flat latex paint, I haven't experienced a problem with it.

GURU"*

My Chem and physics teacher's (God love them) would try to explain things to the class sometimes, and create more questions with every answer. I'm a fan of sheading *light* on a subject by keeping it simple. 

So my answer to Jack is: "SOMETIMES with flat latex, I haven't had a problem. But always follow the label."


GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Zip said:


> Booger
> You rounded the hedge row when you answered my question. I said nothing about midifing the paint with Japan dryer.
> And yes I can twirl & flip my brushes.


Fantastic! Having fun on the job is important. 

Over the years we have heard everyone say that painting is easy, and that anyone can do it. As we all put a few years on the wall, and a few mistakes on the wall as well, we learned how much more there is to it than just slopping it on and smoothing it out. We've all been slapped down a few times by the chemistry and physics we deal with. And we learned that it is a lot harder than everyone thinks. 

I prefer to keep those onlookers thinking it is that easy by making it look like I'm having fun. 

As a teenagers, we used to have fun at work. I remember tossing tools around, and looking like we took the "Bartendering With Flair" class at our local community college. We would have target practice with our scrapers on a tree or the ground from the peak of the roof. Have ninja training with our extention poles. Put a marble sized glob of caulk on the tip of the tube, and fling it at a squirl. Or just a simple "mud fight" with joint compound. 

Your clients will take you seriously and know that you are a professional when you leave them with quality work. But, they'll want you around more often when your sense of fun leaves them with a smile. Don't be a "buzz-killer" or a "party-pooper" on the job. 

*The Serious GURU Disclaimer (in fine print):
In no way does the Paint GURU encourage or endorse the practice of unsafe work habbits. Always consider SAFETY FIRST! 


GURU


----------



## painter77 (Sep 22, 2005)

May I just say I am taught by PB's answer, and am enlightened by WE's. 
Understanding in depth the cause and effect of things brings about enlightenment. 

Not trying to be contrary to PB's thinking, I think Eric's explanation is wonderfully clear.. To me, both are teachers/gurus and I'm learning from both. On this planet with more than three billion souls, there should be more than one guru in every field. :thumbsup:

Regards


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Getting help/answers for your problems is the most important thing. Good painting jack, and thanks for adding the missing perspectives wolf. 

GURU


----------



## BMAN (Aug 21, 2006)

In doing proper prep and laying out all the needed tarps, how long will my wife and I have to make love before the gallon dries on the plastic covered bed?


----------



## DelW (Jul 7, 2005)

Can't wait to heat the answer for that one.:laughing:


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

BMAN said:


> In doing proper prep and laying out all the needed tarps, how long will my wife and I have to make love before the gallon dries on the plastic covered bed?


 
Gallon of what dries on the plastic covered bed???


----------



## STUMPFOOT (Aug 25, 2006)

The never ending GURU thread.


----------



## STUMPFOOT (Aug 25, 2006)

It just goes on and on...


----------



## STUMPFOOT (Aug 25, 2006)

And on....


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

BMAN said:


> In doing proper prep and laying out all the needed tarps, how long will my wife and I have to make love before the gallon dries on the plastic covered bed?


If you are using oil base, I would advise a lot of foreplay. Perhaps a bottle of wine, and some sweet talking. Back rubs leading to a fashion show. And maybe even a nap before the love making. Then, you might consider one of those little blue pills. 

If you are using latex (women prefer the ribbed), drink the wine, tell her she's beautiful, and skip the nap. 

A 2-part epoxi ... take that pill earlier in the day, skip the foreplay, and drink the wine after. 

GURU arty: party on


----------



## Workaholic (Feb 3, 2007)

LOL good answer.:thumbsup:


----------



## Paul_R (Jan 22, 2007)

But remember, If you have an erection that lasts for more than FOUR hours see a physician! :thumbsup: :clap:

Happy whatever! Paul :wheelchair:


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> an erection that lasts for more than FOUR hours


I always considered that phrase to be an ingenious marketing idea.


----------



## BMAN (Aug 21, 2006)

If I get an erection that last four hours I am calling evreyone but my doctor!


----------



## ddean393272001 (Jul 4, 2007)

*Ddean*



paint_booger said:


> And, guys. This thread isn't for you all to extort it by chalenging my credentials ... open your own thread called "Calling out the GURU on facts" if you want.
> 
> I just want to help people with problems.
> 
> I've never met a painter that thought he wasn't the best ... till he grew up!


 
HELLO,
I AM PAINTING CABINETS WITH A WAGNER POWER SPRAYER. HOW DO I MIX THE INTERIOR LATEX WATER BASED TO SPRAY THROUGH MY SPRAYER? I TRIED ,BUT I EITHER GET A GOOD MIST OR IT SPITS OUT PAINT IN BLOBS.
THANKS FOR ANY HELP !!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

BMAN said:


> If I get an erection that last four hours I am calling evreyone but my doctor!


I'm thinking the "B" in BMAN stands for "BOB"?

"Everyone loves Bob" (from the Enzyte ads). :notworthy

If you experience priapism, it is important that you seek medical care immediately. As long as treatment is prompt, the outlook for most people is very good. However, the longer medical attention is delayed, the greater the risk of permanent dysfunction.

There is nothing worse than trying to paint the ceiling with a broken extention pole. You can use tape to hold it in place. But, it will still twist around a little leaving ropes and uneven coverage.

Remember Gentlemen: 

*ALWAYS TAKE CARE OF YOUR TOOLS, AND THEY WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU!*


GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

_*"HELLO,*_
_*I AM PAINTING CABINETS WITH A WAGNER POWER SPRAYER. HOW DO I MIX THE INTERIOR LATEX WATER BASED TO SPRAY THROUGH MY SPRAYER? I TRIED ,BUT I EITHER GET A GOOD MIST OR IT SPITS OUT PAINT IN BLOBS.*_
_*THANKS FOR ANY HELP !!"*_

Dean,

I've never had much luck with those darn wagner cup guns. They realy spit alot! 

For a quality job on an interior project, I would move up to an HVLP. It sounds like you are only going to use it a few times, so I won't tell you to go out and get an expensive set-up. There are cheap versions out there that won't last if you are using them on the job all the time, but for an occational project or two ... they are perfect. 

If you have never used one ... they are a little like hooking up a shop vac in reverse, and blowing a fine mist of paint on to the surface. Folow the directions on the can for thinning your product, and apply multiple thin coats. Here is a link for the cheaper version, and it's on sale. List = $150 ... on sale for $90.

http://www.gleempaint.com/fine-spray-hvlp-2400.html

If you dont want to pop for a new toy, you can rent a 440 sprayer from your local paint store pretty cheap. Try using a 211 tip.

Good luck, Dean.

GURU


----------



## lpp (Apr 11, 2006)

:laughing:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

My girlfriend asked me to strip the paint off her toe nails ... she did her fingers, and forgot to do it. I guess she didn't want to ruin her nails with the polish remover. 

I always thought there was Toluene in the remover ... I read the back, and it was acetone. Have things changed ... or am I remembering things wrong???


----------



## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

Acetone is now an exempt solvent and doesn't have to be calculated as VOC... It is also more powerful as a solvent although it evaporates much quicker. However, it has been in fingernail polish remover for a REALLY long time.


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Seems like the first time I remember seeing the word acetone was on polish remover. I'm thinking this was many years ago.


----------



## LaPintura (Jan 31, 2007)

paint_booger said:


> E-Z George.
> 
> Check the health hazard rating for BEHR. You could almost make plants grow with the stuff.


WOOOOW! so there IS actually a use for that STUFF!!! And here I was hopelessly trying to make it adhere to walls!
I feel so enlightened!:w00t:


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Welcome to my thread, Pintura.

I answered your glazing question in another thread. Good luck with it!


GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

A few tips on window glazing ...

Be carefull when scraping the old glaze. If you hit a glazer's point, you might splinter or crack the glass. 

Rather than neutralize the oils ... try changing the temperature of the glaze. It's not as sticky when it's cold. Put it in your lunch cooler.

After pressing the glaze on with your 1 inch flex blade, rub it the opposite direction with your finger > VERY LIGHTLY. It will eliminate the splits. 

Don't put it on too fat, or you will make the window look bad from the inside. Try to keep it at the same depth as the interior is.

Make sure you push it into the surface enough that it will stick, and not roll off. If this becomes a problem, try smashing it in with a 5 inch flex blade before smoothing it with your 1 inch. 

Priming the areas after scraping will create a dust-free surface.

Rub a little into the cracked glaze that doesn't chip off also. 

If the glass moves when you are smashing the putty on, it needs to be secured with a glazer's point or two. Be carefull not to put the point in too tight. A quick shot with a heat gun will soften the old glaze so you can remove it and pop the point in.

Clean the oil off the window with a paper towel and some windex right away so you don't have to do it when it's dry. Be very carefull not to touch the glaze when you do this. I usualy smooth the putty with my finger <LIGHTLY> when I'm done, then again with the windex ... on the glass only.

Show the home owner all the broken panes before you start scraping ... they might think you cracked them. Most home owners don't realize how many broken windows they have. Walk around the inside with them, and do an inspection.

And finaly, if you are taking them to the nearest ACE ... go down in the basement, and have them teach you. Ore hire the guy to work for you. You can't out-source our entire trade. This IS one of out jobs! What's next ... hiring a scraping or caulking subcontractor???


*GURU*


----------



## fatherson (Jul 11, 2007)

First time here and this is the first post I started reading, lol... This is the type of forum I like, play and talk business at the same time. Not to get off the painting topic, But WD 40 is also good for fishing, fish love it, (salt water anyway). Spray it on the buck-tail and try it, if you do any surfcasting. 

I started painting back in the 60's if you count when I went with my father on his jobs. Painted untill 1989, took about 17 years off and now I'm getting back into it. Onething I can say is, Do not take 17 years off and then start climbing ladders again it hurts lol. Forgot how much my feet can hurt from a ladder.

Bill aka: grumpy


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Grumpy Old Man:* I'm oooooold! And I'm not happy! And I don't like things now compared to the way they used to be. All this progress -- phooey! In my day, we didn't have these fancy shmancy sprayin' machines. We used to put the paint on with brushes. We would let it dry, and sag, and we didn't care. That's the way it was ... and we liked it! 

Life was simpler then. There wasn't all this concern about _SAFETY!_ It my days, we didn't have _OSHA. We used to put lead based paint on the wall with 18 inch rollers. We didn't wear masks ... the fumes put hair on your chest. You would_ get an infection and your head would swell up and turn green and children would burst into tears at the sight o' ya! And that's the way it was and we _liked_ it! 

Progress?! _Flobble-de-flee!_ In my day, when we were angry and frustrated, we just said, _"Flobble-de-flee!"_ 'cause we were idiots and we didn't know what else to say! Just a bunch o' illiterate Cro-Magnons, blowin' lead dust on crusty handkerchiefs, over lapping wallpaper seams with out cutting and that's the way it was and we _liked_ it! 

*Just kidding Grump ... welcome to contractor talk ... check out "PAINTERTALK dot com" too. It's new.*

*GURU
*


----------



## STUMPFOOT (Aug 25, 2006)

Actually it's: http://www.painttalk.com/index.php


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Thanks for the link stump! It's too bad that site is so slow right now. As the population grows ... I'm sure it will pick up.


GURU


----------



## STUMPFOOT (Aug 25, 2006)

You betcha


----------



## daArch (Jun 8, 2007)

optional tips on window glazing:

Do all that booger said with these slight additions or refinements.


When you are replacing panes, make sure you back putty (1/32" of putty on the inside against the muntin). ALWAYS use points, and use enough. They are what actually hold the glass. Glazing just weather proofs. 

Apply a coat of Penetrol on the bare wood (dries quicker than oil or paint and gives some tack), I always like to smoosh a fat snake against pane and muntin, and then CUT excess off with putty knife in one smooth corner to corner stroke. Dip knife in linseed oil and it slides and smooths real nice. Feather glazed pane with soft brush after to rid of those tiny little "dog ears".


----------



## sprinklerguy (Jun 8, 2004)

Tips for painting pressure treated wood? I have painted a post for test purposes....2 weeks now and no blistering or bubbling.....how long can I expect it to last if I go through with this...I realize it isn't the best idea....but it really needs to get done if possible...


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

OK Tony,

_*"... I realize it isn't the best idea..."*_


I think you answered your own question. Sounds like a project for 2008.


*GURU*


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I have ahouse with pt 4x4's across the front porch. Not sure how long they have been upor how many times painted. They have been up for sevral years. They hold paint as well, if not better, as the house. I don't know how long they were up before being painted.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Hey Bo,

What kind of wood?


GURU


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

pt pine. Been so long ago, Prop primed with Kilz oil base. Can't rememeber having a problem with any of the paint on them. Few big cracks from drying but paint is holding vey well now. At that time, I would say it was a paint from lowe's. Before this last time this summer, it was about 10 years since the last paint was put on them. Used a Valspar cream color this summer.

I may have inadvertently let them dry enough before I painted them when I installed them. Then again, I may just not remember hafving any problem with the first time maybe 20 years ago.


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I was thinking about this this morning and realized there are no paint layers showing on these post as if any heavy flaking ever occured. Only place that is a little funky is where I had a railing at one time. I should have taken the time to sand and feather those places.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

boman47k said:


> I was thinking about this this morning and realized there are no paint layers showing on these post as if any heavy flaking ever occured. Only place that is a little funky is where I had a railing at one time. I should have taken the time to sand and feather those places.


 
OK! Yes you should have. "Asked and answered."


GURU


----------



## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Guru,
I accidently set on a thinner rag while driving home. what is the best cream to soothe my bottom?
Already tried WD-40, it didnt help.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

ModernStyle said:


> Guru,
> I accidently set on a thinner rag while driving home. what is the best cream to soothe my bottom?
> Already tried WD-40, it didnt help.


 
Mr Style,

I'm sorry to hear about your unfortunate accident! I sat on a laquer thinner bucket during the morning break once. 
It could have been worse if I was hanging a little lower ... it you know what I mean.  
*It's a bad, bad thing!* It realy fried my ass! :furious:

The first thing you want to do is wash the effected area with soap and water, then wash the clothes before waring them again. Turning your underware inside out for one more use would not be advised. 

You may experience some DRYNESS, ITCHING, CRACKING, BURNING, REDNESS & SWELLING. While your bum is air drying, and the washing machine is filling up, toss a roll of toilet paper in the freezer. It may come in handy later ... depending on how saturated that rag was.:blink:

Betamethasone Valerate is a topical corticosteroid. It requires a prescription, but it is mild, so your doctor may prescribe it over the phone. Don't over use it ... one of the side effects is excessive hair growth.

Search your medicine cabinet or local drug store shelfs for brands containing hydrocortisone. With out a prescription ... I would recomend Walgreens Maximum Strength Hydrocortisone 1% Anti-Itch Ointment.

The 24-hour emergency contact number from the MSDS report is:
*219-236-5856*​Good luck Style! We are all praying for your quick recovery!​ 

*GURU*


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Also, Style, 

Let us know if there is less squeeking in the areas you aplied the WD40. We may have found another use for that stuff!


*GURU*


----------



## fatherson (Jul 11, 2007)

paint_booger said:


> *Grumpy Old Man:* I'm oooooold! And I'm not happy! And I don't like things now compared to the way they used to be. All this progress -- phooey! In my day, we didn't have these fancy shmancy sprayin' machines. We used to put the paint on with brushes. We would let it dry, and sag, and we didn't care. That's the way it was ... and we liked it!
> 
> Life was simpler then. There wasn't all this concern about _SAFETY!_ It my days, we didn't have _OSHA. We used to put lead based paint on the wall with 18 inch rollers. We didn't wear masks ... the fumes put hair on your chest. You would_ get an infection and your head would swell up and turn green and children would burst into tears at the sight o' ya! And that's the way it was and we _liked_ it!
> 
> ...


 
Thanks Guru,

Your post is almost right, 

Saftey: If you fall from that ladder your fired before you hit the ground.

Lead Paint: With a brush about 8" wide. (I Did paint a house with a brush inside. Back in the 80's) Don't forget good'ol, Painter's Colic.

Mask: For what? Asbestos was in the joint compund, in my day...lol

Fumes: Took the hair off my chest...lol

Sorry for the delay, see my post about Ticks "Watch out for Ticks"  see way I was off line for a few days.


----------



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Guru

in this picture

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro...xterior_paint/pdfs/SW_WoodScapes_ExtStain.pdf



what kind of board is that?



What kind of prep is involved staining that particular wood?


What should i know about previous coatings before any stain is applied?


----------



## jackrabbit5 (Apr 30, 2006)

plazaman said:


> Guru
> 
> in this picture
> 
> ...


It's not, unless you call T-111 a board.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Bill,

Was trying to interject humor into the post with a Dana Carvy (from Saturday Night Live) character. I used his entire script ... and substituted a few paint words to make it relate to the business. I'm glad you took it "tounge and cheek"! Fun and real in one place.

I've ripped that fuzzy stuff off the pipes with no mask, wire brushed the ugly shingle siding, and powersanded 100 year old exteriors (it was the 70's ... I smoked unfiltered too!) ... but overlapping the wallpaper??? Why did you guys do that? I don't get it!!!

Today I protect the kids I teach. And teach the kids to protect themselves! I also teach them to protect the ones the will teach.


*GURU*


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Plaz and Rabbit, 

Geeze ... we are playing that game called ... I'm sporting wood ... again??? 

Pictures are a bunch of fun, but a closer image would help. 
Sorry kids.​ 

*GURU*


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I recently took care of a 12 month warantee service on a new house. Generally the drill is ... 
>Homeowner stickers all the nail pops and stress cracks
>Taper shows up in the morning to do the repairs
>Painter shows up for the second half of the day and spot paints the patches.

I walk in around 11am, and the homeowner's wife went around the day before with a highliter pen, and put an "X" on every spot to be touched-up. The highligher dried up after the first couple of rooms, so she switched to a red felt tip pen. "X"She liked the way the red stuck out, so she went back over the highliter spots with the red pen. She circled a few "O", and wasn't afraid to climb up a ladder to mark the high spots ... so we could see them real good. Her comment to her husband was, "Well, I guess they won't miss any spots now."

I walked around the 4 bedroom house with vaulted ceilings, and looked at the extent of repairs. I kept a straight face :blink:, and just said, "I'll be right back. I'm going to grab my tools."

I sat in my truck, and looked around for witnesses, before I laughed out loud. :lol: I called the service manager for the builder on my radio, and told him what we had. He said, "Hmmm. Your paint isn't going to cover that, is it?" Me: "Nope." :no: Him: "Oh, well."

I told the guy what the deal was ... neither my company or the builder would foot the bill for a sealer primer. He was cool with it, and just kinda rolled his eyes at his wife's smart thinking. 

I felt bad, but if they can afford a huge house like that ... they can afford to get the place painted again. The homeowners usualy splash color around after the one-year warantee work is done anyway. Ya got to love it!


*GURU*


----------



## StraightCut (Apr 24, 2007)

Reading this thread for the first time, you got me rolling, thankx....needed the break from estimation blurr...lol:thumbup:,


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Thanks StraitCut.


----------



## duster (Dec 21, 2007)

My Van Is Gone And Paint Was All I Had In There, Therefore My Paint Drove Off And Went On A Holiday!


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

There are many ways to stop paint from running. When painting, I think the most important thing to do is pay attention to the walls you painted minutes before. You may have inadvertantly put too much product on the substrate, in which case your paint will run. The opposite problem is the lack of paint which creates the unsightly "holliday". I would say your problem could be not looking back and checking your work. 
Is your refrigerator running?

*GURU*


----------



## regal (Oct 20, 2007)

purdy brush cleaning, wide brass BBQ brush does an even job and the brass doesnt tear up the bristles.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I prefer a little more finess. No wire brushes for me.


----------



## Nigel S. Shorts (Jul 21, 2007)

Wow! Is it too late for me to be a painter? I wanna be a paint guru after reading this thread.


----------



## hometechnc (Jan 5, 2008)

*At a Loss for Quality Exterior Trim Paint*

Hello All; this is my first post here (btw, the forum looks great)

I do a fair amount of exterior remodeling, mostly Porch and deck renovation and re-construction. Over the last couple of years, I become very dissatisfied with a lot of the trim paints I've been using. So, I'm looking for specific Brand recommendations (if you can do that here).

What finally prompted this quest for quality was the results of painting three exterior doors a few weeks ago. I used Benjamin Moore's "MoorGlo Softgloss", and it was the worst product I've ever used, (at least on doors). The paint would not maintain a wet edge at all, and did not level at all. The results did not change with the addition of Floetrol. So, I have promised to go back and refinish at no charge.

So, as you can understand, I want to go back with the right paint! I am tempted to try Cabot's "Solid Color Deck Stain" (the 100% Acrylic mix). I have used this product on decks and outdoor furniture for over five years now, and it is a wonderful product (and cheap @ $26). This stuff is bullet-proof... and you can slop it on and it looks like a sprayed finish.

The problem is... it is a low-lustre finish, and the lighter colors, especially the white, seems to have no lustre at all.

So dear friends, can you recommend a high-performing, mid-gloss paint for those tough-to-paint doors?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Sherwin Williams Exterior Super Satin.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

*Yaaaawwwn... What a winter!*


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

*Guru - do that voodoo that you do.*

Paint Guru,

I'm going to be painting an 8' X 12' mural that has to be freestanding next to a building. What material should I paint it on? My thought is to find the best quality 3/4" plywood (then frame the back), but what would that be? Two-sided MDO? I need something with a very nice skin to paint on that will be durable enough to withstand the Colorado weather. Suggestions?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

MDO (medium density overlay) has a resin content of 34 to 35 percent and HDO (high density overlay) has a resin content of 52 to 58 percent and appears smoother to the touch than does MDO. The HDO is about 25% more expensive, but may give you a better product, and might last a little longer. Any high-quality edge sealer such as a polyurethane or aluminum-based paint can be used to touch up the edges when the panel is cut or damaged. 

Where exactly in Colorado is this sign going up? When you describe "Colorado Weather" ... you talking about a wide range of conditions. From Durango to Estes you have a much colder and wetter climate than Sterling to "the Springs". 

Either way ... I would lean toward the HDO. Use a Marine varnish topcoat. 

*GURU*


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

I'm in the mountains by Aspen - 8000 feet. The weather can be anything, like you said. This unit will be stored in the winter, so freezing and snow will likely not be a problem. Hail, however . . .

I've been talking on another thread about sealing the edges. The general consensus seems to be that no matter what paint is used, water will eventually get in there. Flexible u-channel has been suggested. I was thinking of sealing with caulk. What say you?

I've never heard of aluminum-based paint. WTF is it?


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

Oh - and as for the sealer. Won't a marine varnish yellow over time? I was going to use Golden MSA acrylic varnish. It blocks UV and supposedly doesn't yellow. What's the bestest, clearest exterior clear coat you've ever used?


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

"I've been talking on another thread about sealing the edges. The general consensus seems to be that no matter what paint is used, water will eventually get in there. Flexible u-channel has been suggested. I was thinking of sealing with caulk. What say you?"

Clear Silicone Caulk ... and capping it sounds like a great idea.

Aluminum >


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

SW's Polane Clear Topcoat.

Here is a hyperlink to the SW spec sheet ...

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&prodno=035777249277&doctype=PDS&lang=E

*GURU*


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

Dude - what a great resource you be. Links and everything. Damn. Thanks.


----------



## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

Guru-

What exactly is the difference between 100% acrylic solid color stain, and 100% acrylic flat latex house paint?


*averting eyes and backing away slowly*


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

The answers you seek are in the questions you ask ...

"What exactly is the difference between 100% acrylic solid color _stain_, and 100% acrylic flat latex house _paint_?"

One is stain ... one is paint.


GURU


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

Steve - the solid body stain is a great product. It's opaque like paint, and can be tinted like paint, but is absorbs into the wood because it's a stain. I've used Cabot's solid body stains on exterior decks and they are really, really nice.


----------



## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

If you compare them.. the data sheets are almost identical
http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/ImgServ?id=datapages/a100_ext_flat_102-02.pdf
http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/ImgServ?id=datapages/woodscapes_solid_stain_105-11.pdf


SW WOODSCAPES® Acrylic Solid Color Exterior House Stain

% by wt

1 Ethylene Glycol
0.1 Quartz
1 Cristobalite
6 Talc
12 Titanium Dioxide
2 Zinc Oxide

****************************** 

A-100® Exterior Flat Latex Paint

2 Ethylene Glycol
10 Quartz
1 Cristobalite
14 Titanium Dioxide
2 Zinc Oxide

****

Looks to me like the biggest difference is the amount of quartz, and the lack of talc in the paint.


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

Mr. Richards,

As a kid, I looked at the back of a paint can, and wondered why there was a different % of chemicals in one paint verses another paint. So I dialed 411, and asked for the number for the Benjamin Moore plant. When the receptionist answered, I asked to be transferred to the lab and wanted to talk to one of the chemists. 

A chemist was on the line, and I asked my question. He seemed to have all the time in the world, and loved talking about it. His answer to me was ...

*"There can only be 100% of all of the chemicals in one can. In order to have more gloss ... you need to take something away. In order to have more coverage ... you need to take something away. In order to to have more durability, color retention, etc. ... you need to have less of something else in the can. You can only have 100% of everything in one can."*

The stain has less Ethylene Glycol HOCH2CH2OH, less Quartz (silica - SiO2), and less Titanium Dioxide *TiO2* to make room for more Talc Mg3si4O10(OH)2 . 

In essense, you have removed (from the paint) some ability to prevent rot and fungus in the wood, most of the ability to create a hard shell and fire resistance, and a little of its ability to cover to make room for the talc ... which helps suspend the insoluble particles in the emulsion. (Kind of like homogenizing milk so the cream doesn't separate out.)
There is your difference.

GURU


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

And, Steve ... this should also answer your question from another trhead ...

*"..and is there REALLY any difference between drywall primer, and the thinned latex flat paint that ya have leftover in a 5 out in yer garage?"*

*GURU*


----------



## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

That sure explains it nicely.

Thank you, Guru, for taking time out of your busy day to type that reply. I can't help but feel somewhat unworthy.

..and that line about the flat paint/drywall primer was supposed to be kind of a a joke...not meant for the eyes of an all powerful and knowing Guru.

I will however refrain from further comedic styling in the future.

*once again averting eyes and backing away*


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

In absolutly no way did I mean to be condesending or demening reguarding the comment of "Junk flat paint" being used as drywall primer. I was simply pointing out that the chemical make-up ... while similar is different. Each component is used to suply different properties. Primer reaches in and grabs the substrate ... paint lies on top. 

When you thin paint out ... you change the charicteristics of the paint. 

In fact ... I enjoyed the fact that you pulled the spec sheets for both the stain and the paint. You are a self educating painter. I Love It! You are a GURU's dream! Sheding light into the darkness is my goal ... and you use your own flash light. Thank You!

GURU :notworthy


----------



## paint_booger (Jun 15, 2007)

I say we get back to how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop.


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

Fifty-four.


----------

