# Slow toilet/ weak flush



## paintr56 (Feb 4, 2005)

I am a painter by trade and a diyselfer by addiction. I have a house that was built in 1916 and bathroom over a crawl space. The problem is a toilet that is allways on the verge of not flushing. when it doesn't a quick plunge and down it goes. The drain pipe is 4" cast iron and looks to drop at least 6" over 18'. This pipe has been rooted out by a plumber about 3 years ago when the line was clogged. This feeds to a septic tank. Every other drain and toilet in the house works well so I don't think it is the septic. It never has worked well. My question is would installing a toilet with the power flush help this situation, or do you have a better suggestions?

Thank you 
Jim Bunton


----------



## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Pain,
How old is the toilet itself? It's possible that something may be blocking the flow of water from the tank to the bowl and not creating a good enough flow in the bowl to get a swirling action going to push the waste out. Maybe if you have hard water it may be partially blocking the water channels to the bowl. Swap out the toiletfor a new one and see . Or you can post a sign " Don't do doo doo in this crapper!" :jester: :laughing:


----------



## ron schenker (Dec 11, 2005)

Can you post a picture of the doo doo?


----------



## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

:no: :no: Eoooh, nasty.:laughing:


----------



## Joasis (Mar 28, 2006)

I am no plumber, but I would check the vent first...really sounds like the vent is plugged.


----------



## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

If it was the vent it seems other fixtures would be sluggish also, but hey I'm not a plumber either.:no:


----------



## Daren (Jun 11, 2006)

Every fixture needs a vent, the toilet for sure, a tub/sink will "glug" but still drain... eventually with gravity. The toilet, the "glug" brakes the siphon action needed to clear the bowl. If it was built in 1916 (and even if the bath was added later) it may not even have a vent. 
The water level in the tank may be too low also. Lift the lid and see if it has filled all the way (there is usually a mark to indicate where that unit works best, maybe just a dented line in the china).
Hey Jay, did I tell you before I bought a sawmill I was a master plumber for 15 years? Plumbing service, yuck, and chase your money. Sawmill, cash and carry!!!
Daren


----------



## Joasis (Mar 28, 2006)

Welcome aboard Daren....least I didn't invite you to this one...you stunbled in on your own...


----------



## Daren (Jun 11, 2006)

Yea I did, but it is your fault I posted. I saw your name and figured I would chime in and agree it could be a vent/lack there of problem.
I'm afraid this is one forum I will not be hanging around. When I walked away from contracting...I ran. I love what I do now. I still carry my plumbing license and nuke welding certs., but will probably drop them soon. I am all about wood now.


----------



## fez-head (Mar 15, 2005)

paintr56 said:


> I am a painter by trade and a diyselfer by addiction. I have a house that was built in 1916 and bathroom over a crawl space. The problem is a toilet that is allways on the verge of not flushing. when it doesn't a quick plunge and down it goes. The drain pipe is 4" cast iron and looks to drop at least 6" over 18'. This pipe has been rooted out by a plumber about 3 years ago when the line was clogged. This feeds to a septic tank. Every other drain and toilet in the house works well so I don't think it is the septic. It never has worked well. My question is would installing a toilet with the power flush help this situation, or do you have a better suggestions?
> 
> Thank you
> Jim Bunton


I am having the same problem and have to use a bucket of water to flush the toilet. I was told to put muratic acid down the down tube and let it sit for 8 hours to dislodge the lime deposits? Has not worked yet after 3 tries.


----------



## Daren (Jun 11, 2006)

handyman, if he is on a septic system acid is not a good idea. It can kill the digestive part of the system, I don't want to go into detail, but trust me those little guys are the most important part. Changing a $4 part is easier/cheaper than a backhoe/honey wagon.


----------



## paintr56 (Feb 4, 2005)

Darren:
You are right there is no vent. Adding a vent will not be easy there is no place to run one from the first floor bath through the second floor. Is there another option?

Jim Bunton


----------



## Daren (Jun 11, 2006)

They make a thing called an "auto vent", the are not code legal in Illinois (but they still sell them, and I will fess up...I have used them:whistling ) It is a spring loaded check valve that lets air into the line when a fixture drains. I won't go into all the details of how it works, but it just like a vent to the roof but it just installs on the line. It is just a little threaded thing about the size of a baby food jar. You said it was cast iron, you would have to drill a hole in the drop from the stool and put a saddle and then put the "auto vent" on the saddle. Did you check the water level in the tank? it could still be that too.
Daren
http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/


----------



## fez-head (Mar 15, 2005)

Daren said:


> handyman, if he is on a septic system acid is not a good idea. It can kill the digestive part of the system, I don't want to go into detail, but trust me those little guys are the most important part. Changing a $4 part is easier/cheaper than a backhoe/honey wagon.



I know what you meen about those enzymes...I flush a box of them down the drain once a year for good measure.

What is this $4 part you are refering to? The flapper is doing its job but the water is not leaving the tank fast enough. The muratic has helped a little bit but not enough for the loads I leave in there
 

I may kick it up a notch and try some Hydrofloric acid.

Thanks
Jesse


----------



## MisterFIXIT1983 (Jun 4, 2006)

I Agree, muratic acid = bad idea for septic system!

Your problem is deffinatly in the upper portion of the bowel. water is not leaving the tank fast enough? sediment builds up quickly in some parts and will cause the flow from the tank to those little holes in the bowl to slow and even quit. you can goto home depot and buy an eljer elite toilet and bowl, wax ring with floor bolts, and a lid for about 55-60 bucks. my eljer will flush a basketball! give it a shot. also if it is an older toilet you will be doing your septic system good justice since now you will only use around 1.6Gal per flush as opposed to 3-5! you got nuthing to lose... except for a crappy crapper!


----------

