# Deep knife plate slot



## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

What do you guys think the best way to approach slotting this mortise would be. I figured on using my router but deepest I can get is maybe 3", maybe... thought of drilling the rest out, but open to ideas. Keep in mid these are around 16' long port orford cedar, pricey and being done onsite. All the other plates have been through cut not pocketed, so were easy.

Again not the biggest job.... just curious on ideas.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Check these guys out:

http://www.endmilldiscount.com/end-mill/htc-end-mills-770.asp


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

That'll do it. But dayum. . Not cheap.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

You need a Festo Chain Mortiser


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## Rustbucket (May 22, 2009)

Hammer and chisel? Route out as much as you can first.


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

Just tell them you don't need no stinking metal plate... and cut one of these lighting bolt scarf joints:

"Within the family of tension lap splices, perhaps the highest form in efficiency, required craftsmanship, and artistry is the bolt-of-lightning splice (see figure 108). This joint is a tapered, end grain bearing splice with multiple bearing faces."

http://www.tfhrc.gov/structur/pubs/04098/14.htm


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Mortise bit in a drill press? Not sure if that would have enough depth or not...


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Problem is it's a 16 foot rail. There's no drill press working on this. Figure I'll just route out the meat of it then use a long drill bit to get it deep as I can with the rest.


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## FramingPro (Jan 31, 2010)

chainsaw?


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Its funny I get comments ranging from an intricate tension joint to using a chainsaw. Hahaha... Thanks guys I think i'll stick to what I plan on doing. Lol. 

This Port Orford cedar is some pricey stuff, and this house is riddled with one off custom call outs... I gotta do what the archi calls out.


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Heres an additional detail of the mortise and the cedar wall it goes on. 

And if anyone sees a project spedc'n Cem Clad.... run. Very fasy (The cement panels posted in picture)


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## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2010)

Chainsaw. I have done hundreds of knife plates and have tried everything. An electric chainsaw then work it side to side to get the right width. 

On thinner material I set up a jig to maintain a straight slot. I also will drill start and stop points. The holes let you feel when your tip is at the right depth and lenght. This joint you have is a simple one. They will go pretty quick.

The problem with a 1/2" drill is chiseling out the left over. 5" + deep slot to chisel straight no thanks. How many do you have to do?


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## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2010)

griz said:


> Check these guys out:
> 
> http://www.endmilldiscount.com/end-mill/htc-end-mills-770.asp


I tried those once. Got a 10" x5/16". It sucked. Tried ripping my arms off, twisting the beams, knocking over the saw horses. Lol that day made my face purple a few times.


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Well Chris, and FramingPro, you do have a good point. The plate is only 1/2 by 4 1/2, so not sure I can fit a chainsaw in there, but can do the precisoin starter mortise with the router and hog the rest out with chainsaw if I can fit it in there without oversizing.

Only have one to do, as far as the job goes though we've done several dozen through cut knife plate joints, this is the only one calling for a true mortise pocket.


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Some examples of the less complicated ones...


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## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2010)

Oh only one. If you don't have a small electric saw I'd just router, and drill. Use a paddle bit to clean up the inside instead of a chisel, should be able to walk it around in there.

We blind cut or pocket all our knife plates. Never ran the slot thru I always hid the plates.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

elementbldrs said:


> Problem is it's a 16 foot rail. There's no drill press working on this.


Too late for you, but a little tip on bench top drill presses. I took the head off mine and had it bored all the way through so I can flip it upside down and move it up and down the column. For what you're doing, just mount the base to a wall, flip the head upside down and now all you need is a stand to hold the rail. Mortise whatever length stock you want.

Another use of this set up is to flip the head upside down on the column, then put the table on. You can now chuck a stone or burr to deburr metal edges, sliding the workpiece over the table.


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## jamesdc (Aug 27, 2010)

I'm with Chris, chainsaw is the best way. I start with a 1/2" x 3" router bit as deep as possible. Then it's time to fire up the husky and spray some chips. I've done many knife plates and have no problem using large gas saws, but if you're new to bore cutting with a chainsaw maybe start with an electric. Check chain sizes though and try to get the widest chain cutters, most small chainsaws run .325 pitch chain witch gives a small kerf. I run 3/8 pitch on my saws witch will give you slightly over 3/8" kerf, although you can chase the cut wider but it's a little annoying. If you do go the chainsaw route remember, THINK STRAIGHT!


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