# hardwood around curved stairnosing



## stack_ca (Jul 24, 2007)

Hi all

Needs some advice or tips. I've got a job coming up installing 2 1/4" hardwood in a second floor hallway. In the majority of the area the hardwood will be butting up against curved stairnosing on which the railings are installed. 

Anyone have any tips on quick and accurate ways to profile against the curved stairnosing?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Standard way is to scribe it using a scribing compass and cutting with a jigsaw.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Leo G said:


> Standard way is to scribe it using a scribing compass and cutting with a jigsaw.


 yup


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

loneframer said:


> yup


Uh-huh. Your job?


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## stack_ca (Jul 24, 2007)

yep, my job. Jigsaw and I guess a belt or spindle sander to get the cuts precise?


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Uh-huh. Your job?


 Well. I framed it, built the decks, did most of the Azek, trimmed it, managed the subs on the finish, but no, the flooring was installed by a sub:thumbsup:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

patience.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

loneframer said:


> Well. I framed it, built the decks, did most of the Azek, trimmed it, managed the subs on the finish, but no, the flooring was installed by a sub:thumbsup:


:thumbsup::thumbsup: Great lookin job.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Just hack it. No one looks at the floor anyway. :laughing:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Leo G said:


> Just hack it. No one looks at the floor anyway. :laughing:


You would think that, based on some of the jobs I have torn out


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Start your runs from the stair nose. Tap together multiple starting courses. Take a scribe & scribe them. Then off to the jig saw using a downstroke blade. Half round file or sandpaper to make a small chamfer on the ends of the boards & touch up with color matched stain. & as darcy said, patience & alot enough time that you don't have to rush through that step.


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## stack_ca (Jul 24, 2007)

Thanks very much.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I've got a small bandsaw I use.


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## mrghm (Nov 19, 2006)

dry lay the row's.

get MDF bend to curve and tack in place with pin gun.

take router with stright bit and follow curve around.

bang nice clean cut in one pass with out jig saw or damaged edges.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

mrghm said:


> dry lay the row's.
> 
> get MDF bend to curve and tack in place with pin gun.
> 
> ...


Once you have straight line of boards line up, you can make a template of the curved section and dry lay the boards, tape them and cut it with router on a work table.
mrghm's suggestion is the one of the best way to do it, but you can not get to the boards near the wall. And one pass is tough for 3/4", I would pass in two.
Years I have used (believe it or not) low power table saw which requires a lot of attention and patience(not recommended)


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## mrghm (Nov 19, 2006)

astor said:


> Years I have used (believe it or not) low power table saw which requires a lot of attention and patience(not recommended)


low power table saw?

please explain?


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Imo*

a scribing compass does a great job.. 

B.


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