# Window insida Tile Shower



## orson (Nov 23, 2007)

I have a customer that wants a shower built against a wall with an exterior vynil window.

Idea 1: 

get a piece of 1/4" temered glass and frame it with wood extension jambs which will mount against vynil window unit, kerdi up to tempered glass and caulk joint, tile up to window w/ sill sloped inward of course.

Conern- what are the chances that moisture will get in between the tempered glass panel and the window and condense?

How could I vent it? Leave a vent in the tempered glass at the top? or is that inviting even wore moisture problems?

Idea 2: Run a small flashing up against the vynil unit @ the sill, kerdi and tile the jambs and sill, install a side to side glass sliding double window with a track mounted on the sill and jamb head.

Idea 3: Hope someone here is smarter than me(a given) and will tell me how to do it

In advance: No, glass block is not an option, customer want their view preserved.


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## Houston's (Nov 30, 2006)

I have a vinyl window in my shower and i have no problems with it.:thumbup:
make sure ur seal between window and the tile is good.


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## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

orson said:


> I have a customer that wants a shower built against a wall with an exterior vynil window.
> 
> Idea 1:
> 
> ...


I wouldn't try that. Three is a reason double glazed windows have a vacuum between the glass and not just air.


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## orson (Nov 23, 2007)

Houston's said:


> I have a vinyl window in my shower and i have no problems with it.:thumbup:
> make sure ur seal between window and the tile is good.


That's a good point, as usual the simplest method eludes me....even if water got into the window it would just drain to the exterior....I could just caulk my membrane right to the window.


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## Burby (Nov 25, 2008)

When you caulk the tile to the unit, just don;t use a latex caulk. The thermal expansion / contraction will be exreme due to hot showers, cold outside air, ect. Get a good quality silicone rubber, NP1 or GeoCel, both come in clear or colored & will serve you very well. Also can be picked up at your local Roofing supply.


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## We Fix Houses (Aug 15, 2007)

There's some pointers in here

http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45540&highlight=window+sill


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## Terrorron (Nov 7, 2008)

*Did this one a few years ago...*

...picture window for a 2x4 wall (the exterior wall is 2x 6); removed the jamb extensions and insulated with expanding foam, then concrete board, Kerdi and slate. Joint between vinyl and slate is sealed with elastomeric caulking. Custom insert was installed by the glass guys; it's vented in the lead cambing (sp?) along the top.









No complaints as of yet.

Cheers, Ron


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## orson (Nov 23, 2007)

I'd be more concerned with the caulk joint between the Kerdi and the window, but point well taken.

titebond weathermaster should do the trick.

I didn't see anything really enlightening in that JLC forum. Putting a piece of azek on the sill sounds like a painting nightmare.

Thanks for the responses.

Nice craftsmanship Ron.


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## MMC73 (Aug 31, 2008)

Another option which we use is 3M Marine Caulk. It is obviously water tight and holds up well due to the extreme expansion and contraction, also does not discolor or mold. Expensive but worth it in my opinion.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

azek paint beautifully


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

MMC73 said:


> Another option which we use is 3M Marine Caulk. It is obviously water tight and holds up well due to the extreme expansion and contraction, also does not discolor or mold. Expensive but worth it in my opinion.


3M 4200
5200 will dry underwater, but would cure too slow for this app


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Winchester said:


> I wouldn't try that. Three is a reason double glazed windows have a vacuum between the glass and not just air.


Not arguing with your recommendation, but I just can't let that statement pass. I've never heard of any window with a vacuum between the panes; normally it's just plain air, argon or some other gas.

The insulation factor comes from the limitation of convection within that space, and the optimum spacing varies dependent on the glass thickness and what gas(es) is contained within. There's an extremely detailed post somewhere here by someone in the industry which lays it out pretty nicely. If you're interested, I'd recommend searching it out. I'm too busy right now watching for Santa.

Think about it. Two sheets of say, 2'x3' 1/8" glass 1/2" apart with a vacuum between. With an atmospheric pressure of ~15 PSI, that glass is going to be noticeably bowed, if not outright broken.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

they make a quick set 4200 caulk. I wouldn't use 5200. It is meant to be permanent.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i think i read somewhere they are trying to develop a vacuum window unit,
it supposed to work like a thermos bottle.the problem that i understand it is visible spacers are required to keep the 2 panes separated.
from what i gathered from the article was that nothing between the panes,nothing gets conducted between them i think:laughing:


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