# Tile backsplash



## Wooden Details (Jan 15, 2011)

Any tips/ suggestions on installing this type of backslash would be greatly appreciated. Regular mastic should work? The rope has some rub through...do you seal just these areas or should I put a coat over everything? What's the best way to grout a border that so profiled. Thanks


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

The rope tiles you apply with clear silicone after the field tiles are applied, set and grouted. You don't grout the rope border tiles. At least I've never seen it done that way.

PS.... you're not using that one rope tile facing up at the bottom right next to the horizontal surface with the one at the top facing out are you? That would be an awkward and difficult install for sure IMHO.


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## Wooden Details (Jan 15, 2011)

CompleteW&D said:


> The rope tiles you apply with clear silicone after the field tiles are applied, set and grouted. You don't grout the rope border tiles. At least I've never seen it done that way.
> 
> PS.... you're not using that one rope tile facing up at the bottom right next to the horizontal surface with the one at the top facing out are you? That would be an awkward and difficult install for sure IMHO.


The tile company print shows one row of rope against the counter, a row of decorative tile and another row of rope tile than the rest is glazed tile at a 45 deg angle. Also gets a design above the cooktop that's 4 decorative tiles with a rope border around it.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Wooden Details said:


> The tile company print shows one row of rope against the counter, a row of decorative tile and another row of rope tile than the rest is glazed tile at a 45 deg angle. Also gets a design above the cooktop that's 4 decorative tiles with a rope border around it.


Hmmm.... well, I would check with them and see what they recommend then. I've never seen that done before. I used a rope (actually a pencil tile as it's called, but similar in application to your rope) around the outside of my backsplash.

And to correct something I said above, I set the tiles, then siliconed on the pencil (rope) trim tile and THEN grouted. Sorry about that.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

:blink:

Just use thinset and be done with it. Although, crappy mastic should work too (but I never recommend mastic). Silicone has *no* business being used to install tile.



Wooden Details said:


> The rope has some rub through...do you seal just these areas or should I put a coat over everything?


 Huh?




Wooden Details said:


> What's the best way to grout a border that so profiled.


Carefully? There are no "tricks".


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## Wooden Details (Jan 15, 2011)

Where the rope is rubbed through it is like the terra-cotta base of the tile. All the rest is glazed....so I guess it's just the rope that would need a sealer?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

angus242 said:


> :blink:
> 
> Just use thinset and be done with it. Although, crappy mastic should work too (but I never recommend mastic). *Silicone has no business being used to install tile*.


Yeah, I was going to suggest thinset as opposed to mastic (which is what I used on the counter top and backsplash). But, I'm not the tile professional and didn't want to start any mastic vs thinset controversy. 

As for silicone used to adhear the pencil trim, that's the advice I was given and seconded by several tile professionals over on the John Bridge tile forum. So, I went with it. It was a snap to do and has worked out perfectly for me in my situation. They also recommended that I use the matching Laticrete sanded caulk (instead of sanded grout like I used elsewhere) where the backsplash meets the surface tile and also between the surface tile and oak cap trim around the top. That has so far worked out well for me in my situation too.

So, I suppose there is more than one perfect solution to every problem. Thank you though for your comments.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

what's the thinking behind using silicone, rather than just thinset along with all the other field tiles? why treat the pencil tiles differently? i'm with angus - thinset it all and make your life easier.
color matched caulk is a good idea where dissimilar materials meet or on plane changes.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I agree with the color-matched caulk idea!


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## jarvis design (May 6, 2008)

Never heard of setting border tile with silicone either...
I hope you are using a better, ie. Epoxy or Urethane grout


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

I have no idea why they suggested it that way. I used Laticrete thinset and the Laticrete sanded grout, then the matching sanded caulk and finally siliconed the pencil trim. It's what they suggested I think to make my life easier I suppose. Not being a pro and used to working with those products every day, they maybe tried to make my life a little easier? I don't know. I just followed their directions.

But it all seems to have worked out beautifully. It's been done almost four years now and everything is still rock solid with zero stains or cracks anywhere. I sealed the grout right after completion and then again last year and all seems to still be perfect.

FWIW.... I used 3/4" baltic birch plywood for my top with a coat of thinset and 1/4" hardi board over that - all coated with two coats of Red Guard sealant prior to setting the field tile.


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## HS345 (Jan 20, 2008)

CompleteW&D said:


> I have no idea why they suggested it that way. I used Laticrete thinset and the Laticrete sanded grout, then the matching sanded caulk and finally siliconed the pencil trim. It's what they suggested I think to make my life easier I suppose. Not being a pro and used to working with those products every day, they maybe tried to make my life a little easier? I don't know. I just followed their directions.
> 
> But it all seems to have worked out beautifully. It's been done almost four years now and everything is still rock solid with zero stains or cracks anywhere. I sealed the grout right after completion and then again last year and all seems to still be perfect.
> 
> FWIW.... I used 3/4" baltic birch plywood for my top with a coat of thinset and 1/4" hardi board over that - all coated with two coats of Red Guard sealant prior to setting the field tile.


 TYW has a lot of members. When you say "they suggested", what do you mean? Do you have a link to the thread in which this was suggested?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

HS345 said:


> TYW has a lot of members. When you say *"they suggested",* what do you mean? Do you have a link to the thread in which this was suggested?


Well, the advice was given over on the John Bridge tile forum. You're a tile guy, so you SHOULD be familiar with it. The thread was about four years ago.... and while I have a little time to visit the boards today, I don't have time to search for a four year old thread. It would be easy if it were my thread, but I asked the question in a thread started by someone else.

I'm "assuming" here that you might be suggesting that I'm being less than factual in my responses about the advice I was given. If that's the case, you can take your accusation and 

I frankly don't remember who *"they"* were. I can only assume that *"they"* were tile professionals since I was on a professional tile forum asking a question about something which I knew absolutely nothing about.

If the advice given me back then.... which I passed along in this thread was so diabolically wrong as to border on absurd..... then I most humbly apologize to the OP and any other professionals on this forum that I may have offended.... you included.

All I know is, for a guy who had never in his life laid tile of any kind, the advice *"they"* gave, and my subsiquent efforts, turned out pretty nice (actually QUITE nice IMHO) and have held up perfectly now since the project was completed. And as I think about it.... it was almost five years ago now, not four.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

I've used silicone on clean fireplace surfaces but never on a backsplash for trim pieces. If I've mixed up thinset, why would I space for a tile to install later when I could install it now? Even installing later, quickset would be my choice. Then,you could grout same day. 

A grout bag might be useful for grouting. Your finger will be the grout float.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

olzo55 said:


> I've used silicone on clean fireplace surfaces but never on a backsplash for trim pieces. If I've mixed up thinset, why would I space for a tile to install later when I could install it now? Even installing later, quickset would be my choice. Then,you could grout same day.
> 
> A grout bag might be useful for grouting. Your finger will be the grout float.


Man this is dredging up memories I had LONG since forgotten. As I now recall, I decided to install the pencil trim tile AFTER I had already installed the field tile, but not yet grouted. Maybe THAT's why they suggested that I silicone them in place prior to me grouting. All I know is it worked like a charm for me. I was able to get a perfect inside corner cut and a really straight and nice looking trim around my backsplash.

Once again, to all who have responded to my (ill advised) advice or questioned my sanity.... I APOLOGIZE.


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## HS345 (Jan 20, 2008)

CompleteW&D said:


> Well, the advice was given over on the John Bridge tile forum. You're a tile guy, so you SHOULD be familiar with it. The thread was about four years ago.... and while I have a little time to visit the boards today, I don't have time to search for a four year old thread. It would be easy if it were my thread, but I asked the question in a thread started by someone else.
> 
> I'm "assuming" here that you might be suggesting that I'm being less than factual in my responses about the advice I was given. If that's the case, you can take your assumption and
> 
> ...


No no, I wasn't insinuating anything. I was just curious who gave the advice. I won't even say it's necessarily wrong advice. I personally wouldn't do it that way, but if the installation has held up well, no worries eh? 

Just simple curiosity, that's all. I'm a longtime member over there, and I know a lot of those guys personally.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

HS345 said:


> No no, I wasn't insinuating anything. I was just curious who gave the advice. I won't even say it's necessarily wrong advice. I personally wouldn't do it that way, but if the installation has held up well, no worries eh?
> 
> Just simple curiosity, that's all. I'm a longtime member over there, and I know a lot of those guys personally.


Thanks Greg.... 

Honestly, I don't remember who it was. Just a question I asked back then which went something like.... "_I've already applied my field tile and backsplash on my vanity top. Now that I'm done, the Mrs. (go figure) has decided she wants this trim tile around the outside edge.... do I need to mix a new bag of thinset (which seems like a waste) or is there another way to apply the trim tile?"_


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

W&D, everyones sanity gets questioned here!


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## pro-caulk (Jun 22, 2011)

W&D i did the same thing on some tile base trim tiles(urethane caulk) been there 7 years now was a quick fix for an after thought and look great


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

Man that tile is some kinda ugly.


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## Wooden Details (Jan 15, 2011)

Finished product....kinda pain grouting, but I was happy with the way it turned out. Thanks for the advice....


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Thanks for the update and glad it all worked out! :thumbsup:


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Wooden Details said:


> Finished product....kinda pain grouting, but I was happy with the way it turned out. Thanks for the advice....


Looks Great!!! :rockon:


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Nice Job!


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