# OSB hangerboard for stair stringer?



## old27 (Feb 13, 2005)

Thunderdome!!!!!!!!!!!


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## sage (Feb 3, 2005)

JustaFramer said:


> You have been called out.


Someone here can't admit when he's wrong (justa ). You seem to be the only one that didn't understand the posts. 

Lets get something straight, you don't have what it takes to call me out.:no: You are not worth my time :no: 

I'm surprised you don't start every how to with " First, plug in your saw".:laughing: :clap: 

Can't wait to see the next clever valuable crap you come back at me with next :laughing:


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## sage (Feb 3, 2005)

JustaFramer said:


> :laughing: Even if a block is flush mounted it would have to be cut more than 3/4" more like 1 1/2" Your still wrong. With todays standards that is hackish. the jacks should be strapped as Robert and I have both stated or some other Simpson metal attachment. Plus a thrust block on the bottom run :laughing:


"And then you take your pencil and sharpen it":laughing: :laughing:


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Sage you can go on with your bull. I did understand the question and I understand that Spencer is learning. You obviously don't have a good read on the situation. 
Nathan is asking for tutourials so write one and add some value. I can production cut 3 sets of stairs and install in a day by myself. So still write a Elementary tut on the mathmatics involved in cutting stairs while staying with in code.


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## stairman (Oct 3, 2004)

May I ask what type of stairs we are building here? Are they a trenched out box stringer type? Or a open stringer with mitered risers? I shop build all my stairs and have never needed to hang my stringers with any kind of straps. I am assuming these are jobsite built with cut out stringers? Since the top riser requires no stringer on these type you have no plumb cut to sit against the 2nd floor header. So is this where the straps come in? Is there no walls next to or under these stairs? Let me know, I will gladly give my imput if it would help.


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## karma_carpentry (Aug 7, 2005)

I've used straps for that application although I would feel comfortable to use 3/4 ply or OSB. I was just reading the JLC book Residential Structure and Framing, the article on Plywood vs OSB by Paul Fisette, which outlines the major problem with OSB is swelling with moisture. Otherwise structurally it's similar. OSB is not chipboard. Let's hope you don't have moisture at the top of your interior stairs. Anyway, I use straps for this application outdoors of course. Straps add just 1/8 inch. With ply or OSB hanger you have to figure on moving the whole staircase back 3/4 inch. Because the top riser will be against the hangerboard not the header framing. But I feel hangerboard is more rigid than straps so I like it for that reason for interior.

Well, can I split the thread to another stair topic? I wonder how many of the stair framers when setting stringer against a wall, kick out the stringer with a 2x4 to provide a pocket for the finish wall and finish stringer? That's on the most basic site-framed stair, not routed and shimmed stringers.


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## maj (Mar 13, 2006)

Karma-- I always build stairs on sawhorses, preassembled 1 1/2" smaller than the opening. This allows me 3/4" on each side to slide the sheetrock down. That way the sheetrock doesn't need to be cut at an angle like it would if the stringers were spaced with a 2x4.

The middle of the stairs are supported temporarily from underneath, then after sheetrock is hung, I will screw the outside stringers the studs with structural lag screws. If it is not a studded wall on each side of the stairwell, I will support the stringers from underneath with cripple studs.


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