# What a MESS???



## daworz (Jan 24, 2006)

Got a job comming up in March, And after seeing it i wish i would'nt have taken it, you know thoses Jobs! It got the old plaster walls where the plaster has loosened from the lath,but did not bid the job to do a complete tear down to the studs, and thought i could lay 1/4" drywall over the top,has anyone had any expericencs with this type of work over? any help would be great!!!!! plus i want ti too look good as well!


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

1/4 won't be thick enough, you'll have wavy walls. 1/2 would be far better.


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## painterman (Feb 5, 2005)

Could you not use plaster washers to reattach the existing loose plaster.3/8 drywall would work better. You will have to do some type of molding to cover the joint if the original baseboard is being used.


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## dusty the taper (Jan 20, 2007)

****ty deal dude


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## daworz (Jan 24, 2006)

*March Madness?*

painterman, 
yes iam planning on useing the exsisting Baseboard, and that is also a Major problem? That i have'nt even started too think about, Got any idea's I may and try too get a picture up shortly to give you all the problem. But what i remember is it has oak trim that mesures like 5.5 inches.


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## painterman (Feb 5, 2005)

Post a few pics. I have done tons of these jobs. They always work out if you plan ahead a little.


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

We have done ALOT of these in the past. 

1.) Remove any really loose crumbling areas that will not stay on the walls. (I am referring to the plaster that might be falling off the lathing, or is just plain lumpy) Install comparable thickness sheetrock into the holes over the lathing to fill in the depth of the areas.

2.) Remove any trim work that may get in the way.

3.) Go over all of it with 3/8" Sheetrock.

Example: This coming week, we are going into an apartment unit in the Boston area to rip down the acoustic ceilings, re-frame, new electrical for new lighting and then drywall.
There was an area that my biz. partner re-sheetrocked years ago (using the method I listed).... I COULD NOT even have guessed that he had re-done the walls ...


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## Ted W (Jan 7, 2007)

If you remove the trim for reinstallation you'll have to accomodate the extra thickness added to the wall surface, probably by ripping strips of oak filler, stained and varnished to match existing. These fillers will go between the trim and door/window jambs. 

If you don't remove the trim the edge will get burried against the edge of the new drywall, thus making the trim appear thin.

If you remove the base caps but not the base boards, replacing the caps will leave them sticking out from the baseboard. Of course you could also remove the baseboards, but then you must also remove casings, plinth blocks... everything but jambs. Then you'll have to recut the length of base boards and caps, as the room will be slightly smaller.

Are there any crown or picture moldings?

If the contract is to do drywall, you should seriously consider your approach and renegotiate if necessary. If the contract is simply to repair the walls, there's a better way.

The plaster is probably 3/8" thick. For any areas where the plaster is falling from the lath, cut a piece of drywall a little larger than the area. Hold the piece of drywall against the loose area (a few screws to hold it in place) and cut around it with your utility knife. Remove the plaster and replace it with the piece of drywall. 

Where the plaster is cracked but still attached to the lath, you can open the cracks with a utility knife (or nail or whatever) then fill the cracks with EasySand 90. Then use fiberglass mesh tape and a couple of coats of your prefered compound. I like Plus 3 for this purpose. Treat the edges around drywall patches the same as cracks.

If you're good with a taping knife you probably won't need to sand at all, just wipe it with a damp sponge. 

Another similar option is to follow the same procedure but use the wide roll of fiberglass mesh and cover, then skim coat, the entire wall. 

One thing to keep in mind is that old plaster is what it is and you can't change that. Cladding it in drywall will change the room dimentions, thus affecting that nice oak trim in one way or another, depending on your approach. 

Personally, I like old walls. If the customer is looking for perfection your best bet is to remove the plaster and lath, replacing it with 5/8" drywall. The second best option is to remove just the plaster and replace it with 3/8" drywall. But if the customer is not looking for perfection, or likes old walls, consider yourself lucky. Patch, fiberglass tape, skim, PRIME! and paint.


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

Ted W said:


> If you remove the trim for reinstallation you'll have to accomodate the extra thickness added to the wall surface, probably by ripping strips of oak filler, stained and varnished to match existing. These fillers will go between the trim and door/window jambs.
> 
> If you don't remove the trim the edge will get burried against the edge of the new drywall, thus making the trim appear thin.
> 
> ...




I think he is only doing the drywall (look at his trade description under his name).


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## Second Look (Jan 13, 2007)

Break off the crumbling areas, and buy a few hundred plaster repair washers to secure the areas which are simply loose. The suggestion to fit a piece of drywall into the voids is a great idea. I've also had success with patching plaster as a scratch coat, then fininshing with plaster of paris.


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## Ted W (Jan 7, 2007)

AtlanticWBConst said:


> I think he is only doing the drywall (look at his trade description under his name).


Yep, it says drywall, finishing and painting. Doesn't mean he can't repair plaster. I'm a carpenter but it doesn't mean I can't do anything else. 

Also, I can spot drywall cladding a mile away, even with painted trim. Sometimes it's the right thing to do, other times it's considered hack work. Different situations call for different solutions. I offered one solution, you offered another.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

the way I would do this job is remove all loose plaster renail wood lath then basecoat wood lath then 2nd coat then plaster to the surface of the wall, all that drywall over the plaster allot of extra work. for the time it will take to remove all the oak trim without breaking it, I would plaster. good luck.


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