# SW Duration paint-use primer or not?



## stromer (Apr 23, 2010)

I will be painting the exterior (3/4 stucco and 1/4 wood siding) of a small older home next week and might be painting with Sherwin Williams Duration paint. They have a 25% off sale which makes this expensive paint reasonably priced. This paint is self priming and only requires one coat according to the SW web site. This is supposed to be SW best paint. I have looked at previous threads and noted that it is not a easy paint to apply. So the questions are:
1. Has anyone used this paint as recommended - no primer and one coat?
If yes what were the results.
2. Is it difficult to install and why? Do you need to get the thickness correct or it runs or what?
3. Should I use a primer to insure better quality?
Thanks


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## We Fix Houses (Aug 15, 2007)

I gotta run this morning but I'm paying attn to the priming part ? I have to do my own house, trim is severely weathered after 10 yrs. I usually prime with oil base Cover Stain if bare wood is showing, or maybe now with the new Zinnser 123 latex primer.

Duration is a great product. Towards 85 - 90 deg outside I've had to use some XIM or Flotrol and stay out of the sun.

Looking to see what others say ?

I think my cost is about $44 - 46 for mid tone


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

sure, it's self priming, but that doesn't count as the 'one coat'...says so on the can. I've never found a one coat to coat in one coat but use the durations for the hassle of not having to run through primer for necessary areas then switching over to color. Even you are running it through a sprayer, why not the less expensive stuff and assume 2 coats?


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## alanbj (Feb 19, 2009)

they're taking the self priming statement back.
use the 123 for sure it blocks out cedar stains if you wait 24HRS for top coat:thumbsup:


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## ttd (Sep 14, 2010)

I'm too old school. I still like a good prime coat. Hi everyone by the way...new to the board.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

me too

Your 2nd post, you bring up a 5 month old thread?

hmmmmmmm


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

(not that there's anything wrong with that.)


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

You know, I didn't know Duration was meant to be self priming for *exterior*.


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## 4thGeneration (Nov 23, 2006)

Self priming only means if you have some problem colors or water stains. It does not mean it will bond down the existing coating. I prefer to use Mad Dog as my primer as it really does stick to the original coating like glue.

Also, the way you power wash the house will go a long way. Paint prep and just house washing are 2 different things. I actually use some TSP in my paint prep cleaning to etch the surfaces. I wet down my windows first before applying though. Low pressure and the right chems make all the difference.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Exteriors.. I always oil prime bare / weathered wood / usually with tinted oil prime / and 1 top coat / I've used duration exterior before, with a deep blue color, no 1 coat coverage. Still had to apply to 2 coats. From all these companies boasting on a 1 coat coverage, still almost always need an additional coat.


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## Megabass (Dec 20, 2008)

I have used the duration as my number 1 exterior house paint almost since it came out. I totally love this stuff. It is harder to apply as it is so darn thick in lighter colors. Def. use flotrol to extend the dry time. Used the gloss the last two days and this stuff was thick like elastomeric. Would rather have used semi but customer insisted. Cool weather and no sun and it was still next to impossible to keep a wet edge. Anyway, IMO this stuff sure is self priming on bare wood and as I found out asbestos and composite shingle. Did a house bout 6 years ago with failing paint on wood and failing paint on asbestos shingle. Did my normal power wash then scrape and sand and two coats over everything. Today, still ZERO failure. No cracking, blistering etc. This paint uses a great binder to promote adhesion but the real magic is the fact that it stays elastic longer into the coating life which of course tranlates into less cracking from flex and ultimately less failure. I have seen the merits first handmany times over and will continue to pay the price for it cause it works. As for raw masonry like stucco, I would prolly use a masonry primer like loxon or equiv. Actually foir masonry, I would prolly just do the loxon prime AND topcoat because of the masonry breathing and that stuff is designed for that purpose.


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