# Thoughts on a dump trailer for skid steer



## EricAnderson

I would like to replace a dual axle car hauler with a dump trailer for my skid steer (Bobcat 150). I'm thinking a dump trailer could be used for transporting the skid steer and also be used to hauling/dump debris. I think transporting and dumping would be equally important in the trailer criteria. 

I don't have experience with dump trailers. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!


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## seeyou

EricAnderson said:


> I would like to replace a dual axle car hauler with a dump trailer for my skid steer (Bobcat 150). I'm thinking a dump trailer could be used for transporting the skid steer and also be used to hauling/dump debris. I think transporting and dumping would be equally important in the trailer criteria.
> 
> I don't have experience with dump trailers. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!


I have hauled skid steers and mini excavators with my dump trailer and have seen others do it. Seems like a marriage made in heaven. Loading/unloading is more difficult, but my trailer had a loading ramp option (which I didn't take).


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## Diggerguy

I am going to do the same thing for my mini ex. Way more versatile than a flatbed and cheaper than small dumptruck. Also I would buy brand new b/c used ones seem to be priced about the same.


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## EricAnderson

I saw another post with link for this outfit selling dumps trailers in PA, MI, and OH...

http://www.appalachiantrailers.com/

I've been looking around and it seems you need to spend $6,000-$9,000 for a trailer. This outfit is only 1.5 hours from me so I'm going to stop by when I'm in the area. Seems I can get a dump with ramps for $5000 plus taxes/fees. 

I wasn't sure if someone is doing this now with a particular brand, model, and/or characteristics.


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## IHI55j

Hawk and moritz are top of the line. Box tubing rust from the inside out you want C channel


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## JDavis21835

We have a Hawk dump trailer at work. It has hauled our T200, T300, and S300 bobcats, along with 331 and 430 mini excavators. It gets the job done, but I have some reservations. Of course most of our machines are bigger. My thoughts are along the lines of securement. Its hard, if not possible to chain down anything. Its the best of, and worst of both worlds.


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## Greg Di

EricAnderson said:


> I saw another post with link for this outfit selling dumps trailers in PA, MI, and OH...
> 
> http://www.appalachiantrailers.com/
> 
> I've been looking around and it seems you need to spend $6,000-$9,000 for a trailer. This outfit is only 1.5 hours from me so I'm going to stop by when I'm in the area. Seems I can get a dump with ramps for $5000 plus taxes/fees.
> 
> I wasn't sure if someone is doing this now with a particular brand, model, and/or characteristics.


Be careful with what you buy. There are really only a few very good brands of dump trailers and a plethora of chinsy brands. A good trailer is expensive because they use thicker steel and better components. I took one look at that site you posted and can tell those are not high quality even from the photos. You really get what you pay for with dump trailers. 

$500-$1000 more gets you an infinitely more durable trailer.

By me, the three premier brands are BriMar, Cam Superline, and PJ (harder to find). I see some real POSs on the road and they are all ebay style cheap trailers.


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## woodchuck2

This is the route i am taking. With NY raising registration costs every year, inspections, maintenance and having to insure my trailers i have decided to sell three of them and just buy one large dump trailer. I have already sold my car trailer and my 7k lb dump trailer and i currently have my equipment trailer for sale. The idea is to just run a larger dump trailer to carry my mini-ex so i have fewer trips moving equipment and product. This will cut back on yearly fee's, maintenance and insurance. A good friend owes me a favor "$1k worth" so i will have him build a flatbed that will pin in place of the dumpbed. I figure my mini-ex can pick up the dumpbed after the 3 pins are pulled and set the flatbed on and attach with the same 3 pins thus giving me a tilt flatbed so i can still haul a car/truck or large quantities of lumber. I am looking to by a 7'X14'X14k lb trailer and have either a 16' or an 18' flat bed made for it.


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## NICKPAUS

woodchuck2 said:


> This is the route i am taking. With NY raising registration costs every year, inspections, maintenance and having to insure my trailers i have decided to sell three of them and just buy one large dump trailer. I have already sold my car trailer and my 7k lb dump trailer and i currently have my equipment trailer for sale. The idea is to just run a larger dump trailer to carry my mini-ex so i have fewer trips moving equipment and product. This will cut back on yearly fee's, maintenance and insurance. A good friend owes me a favor "$1k worth" so i will have him build a flatbed that will pin in place of the dumpbed. I figure my mini-ex can pick up the dumpbed after the 3 pins are pulled and set the flatbed on and attach with the same 3 pins thus giving me a tilt flatbed so i can still haul a car/truck or large quantities of lumber. I am looking to by a 7'X14'X14k lb trailer and have either a 16' or an 18' flat bed made for it.


 I currently have my equipment trailer for sale or trade towards dump trailer. I have owned my 12' Carson dump trailer since new in 2002 and it will dump anything. They did not have ramp feature when I bought it. I am looking for a 14-16' dump trailer either PJ, Big Tex or Carson with ramps. Was thinking of having Carson make me a 16' flatbed dump with removeable sides. Would serve same purpose as my equipment trailer and double as a second dump trailer and pallet material hauler. I will go get the quote from Carson Trailer tomorrow and post how much. Like mentioned alot of cheap trailers on the market. A giveaway is a push ram. Get a scissor hoist for sure.


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## FremontREO

Mine is a 7x14 14k dump made by Cargo Mate and I wouldn't park much more than a lawnmower on it  Very dependable for the first year and put my case 45xt on it and it rocked like a boat on the lake. Never did it again. Perhaps that was because its a bumper pull.
My brother has a big tex and is extremely happy. 16' and built like a tank. Gooseneck makes all the difference IMO


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## scrapecc

I have a 14 foot load trail. I have to say it rocks. I can haul my skiddy to a site, fill the trailer up with dirt or concrete. Dump it with the push of a button. Its also nice to be able to park if i need to just take off in my truck for an errand. But be careful check the gvw on your truck and trailer. Anything over 26000 pounds and you have to have a class A cdl. I found that out the hard way.


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## psgc

I have the 14K lb PJ that is 6.5x12' and it really is a nice trailer. My neighbor also bought one after seeing mine. My only complaint is that the "powdercoat", which is really nothing more than paint, comes off pretty easily.
Also, working down inside of 2' sides to chain down your machines can be a real pain, so buy one that gives you enough room to manuever inside. I added HD tie downs to the inside bottom corners of mine, and lined the inside of the frame under the box with expanded metal to hide my chains, binders, straps, tarps, etc-best thing I ever did.


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## AustinDB

FremontREO said:


> and it rocked like a boat on the lake. Never did it again.


what is your tow rig and was it loaded properly. What was the weight of your machine?


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## Greg Di

psgc said:


> lined the inside of the frame under the box with expanded metal to hide my chains, binders, straps, tarps, etc-best thing I ever did.


Now that there is a good idea. :thumbsup:

Post a pic if you can.

My new dump trailer (BriMar) has a couple of new creature comforts that my old one didn't have. The auto locking (open) doors are so much better than the pin retained ones on my old trailer. They also put an adjustable height coupler which now lets me juggle one less ball mount in my arsenal.


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## apkole

I've owned a Bri-mar DT614-12LPHD since '04. Best equipment investment we've ever made. Well built, trouble free. Used to haul roofing debri from tear offs, roofing equipment, bark, gravel, and a Jeep Wrangler. It's a bumper pull unit, towed with 3/4 diesel pickup. I wish my travel trailer towed as well as this unit. With a reasonably balanced load, it's very stable and handles well.

At year 6, paint (except for the floor) is in very good condition. Purchase price was just south of 7k.


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## bushinspector

I have a 246 cat skid and we are running a bumper pull with a load trail trailer. It works pretty well but we are limited to hauling six tons of rock so the hoist will lift it. I like the ramps that go straight in from the back. It gets a little light when backing it off of the trailer. Will not load into the trailer without an attachment on front of the skid steer. Ramp is a little steep for that.


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## NICKPAUS

Went to Carson trailer and priced out 16' flatbed over axle dump trailer with ramps ,tie downs, stake pockets, dual 8k axles, Pintle hitch and it came out to $10,712 before tax and license. They can give me a break on price but I can not afford. Found used one all features except not over axles and 2' sides missing ramps and wiring for $4500. Going to check out monday and have agreed to buy as long as hoist functions and everything is straight. Figure i will pull pallets to back with strap as I do with current dump. Not many flat bed dumps out there and it is a $1500 upgrade even with no sides.


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## The Cleaner

Dump Trailers are great for hauling a small skid steer. You can even haul a good amount of trash in one and save hiring somebody else to haul it for you. All you have to do is watch out not to overload the thing. If you get a unit with high sides dropping heavy items on the bottom is something else you have to be careful of. 

Lots of good used dump trailers for sale on the internet. Right now there is no reason to buy new with all the slightly used units for sale.


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## psgc

*pics of the hidden storage on my dump trailer*

Someone asked for some pics.....first time posting pics, so bear with me if they don't turn out.

In pic 3, the box is down but you can see the 3" that is between the box and the lockable box. This allows me to drop the chains and binders in, but it's really tough to get them back out without raising the box.


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## Morning Wood

psgc said:


> Someone asked for some pics.....first time posting pics, so bear with me if they don't turn out.
> 
> In pic 3, the box is down but you can see the 3" that is between the box and the lockable box. This allows me to drop the chains and binders in, but it's really tough to get them back out without raising the box.


good idea. they don't get too much road grime on them?


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## psgc

No dirt or road grime to speak of. It does get wet if the roads are wet, but not muddy or 'wish I had gloves to grab this' kinda thing.

The first thing I threw in was plywood (for the first 2 years), and because bark, sticks, dirt, etc couldn't get out, it collected in there. Last year I replaced it with expanded metal, and now junk just falls through.


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## bushinspector

In order to get the chains out you would need to reach under the trailer with the bed up. Do you use some sort of a prop to hold the bed up for additional safety precautions in the event of a hydrallic failure?


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## psgc

My trailer has the support post right there in the front if you want to prop up the bed, but I have never used it. PJ's are a closed loop system (power up, power down) so I had felt pretty safe under mine with it suspended. I have had 16K of broken concrete in it, and left it in the 1/2 up position while I answered the phone for a sub (1/2 hour discussion) and it didn't move.
May not be the safest......


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## S.R.E.

You should never put yourself in a pinch point.:no: Eventually that rule might save your life.:thumbsup: Of course I've never done anything unsafe.:whistling
But seriously I make an effort to think "Is this safe" and its amazing how often I find a safer way to do it.


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## edgnu

I haul my skidsteer in a 14k Olympic dump trailer with a 2000 F250 Pickup, overload 100 psi air bags, chipped with a 100hp extra and upgraded air intake. Upgraded pickup breaks - vented rotors, and of course electric break controller. Like most said, get a good trailer. Get D rings in the bed. Get a 14k Gross trailer, dual axle, with a 20k rugby lift or similiar - just make sure it's 20k lift or else you'll be shoveling out rocks by hand or putting your phat friends on the bumper. Also get max size you can - 14-16 feet. BUT they are easy to overload. And speaking of that, you do want to check what your gross weight is going to be with your skid steer in there. A well built dump trailer is going to weigh 4600+ and a respectable skid steer could hit 7-8000. Stick a mini excavator in there and you can be hauling 15,000 pounds. That's alot off a bumper. Check your hitch - You need a class 6. And alot of vehicles are going to gave a 20k GVWR unless you're driving an f450 / 550 dually. And 23,999 is max with no CDL. Another caveat - a heavy piece of equipment driving up those tall ramps into the dump bed will EASILY lift your rear truck wheels off the ground. And then guess what? No breaks baby. Hope you're quick with an excavator arm because you'd better grab the nearest tree. Solution? Put jacks under the rear of the trailer. Also, speaking of ramps, they don't also hold the max weight the trailer can haul. Nothing like a 9k mini excavator busting through one of your ramps sideways. Solution? Custom weld and increase gauge or decrease span. And another thing...make sure the skid steer you are hauling can be centered over the trailer axles. You may need to load backwards. You may need to rest your bucket on the top of the trailer wall. And then make sure you check your total height! A dump trailer is pretty tall. 

Ok, now for dumping. Get a trailer with a decent length of wire between the dump controller - or just upgrade it, so you don't have to stand between your truck and the trailer. A 10k load dumping out of that bed will push your pick up forward in a heartbeat. Sucks to get run over by your own truck.

And then you'll probably want to increase the sidewall height of the trailer. They don't haul debris too well without 2 foot sidewall addition. I used old forms and 2x4's. Put the 2x4 on outside for more strength, inside for a prettier trailer that might pop a sheet of plywood off the side. 

Sorry if that all sounds completely remedial... BUT it's cheaper to read it here than go off and make those mistakes one at a time. After all that, you'll be good to go. So, is a trailer good for hauling a skid steer? I think it works pretty well, after you get the kinks worked out.


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## AustinDB

nice post edgnu....and welcome to CT!


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## Big Chris

Good points have been made. I'll add that when loading/unloading heavy equipment from my trailer I always put my pickup truck in four wheel drive. That way if the rear tires lift off the ground the truck stays put. ( I set my parking brake as well to save stress on the trans.) Just remember to shift to 2 hi before you head down the road. 26,000 is the magic number for CDL too.:thumbsup:


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## edgnu

*Thanks Big Chris*

Hey Big Chris - great suggestion leaving the truck in 4 low! I don't actually do that by habit but you're right, it locks the wheels. And good catch on the CDL - it's 26,000 in WA State too (mabye all states?) OR if your towing more than 10k AND the GCWR = 26,000 or more.


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## Big Chris

I think it is a federal rule for the CDL requirements. I believe states can be more strict just not less.


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## user49169

Well I will tell you that the best investment I have ever made was purchasing my dump trailer. It is a load trail 14K 14' Goose neck. I pull it with either of my trucks in my signature. I am so very very pleased with its performance. Either machine loads just fine, my ramps are AWESOME. The goose neck is adjustable which makes it nice. Since I have a goose neck I have storage at the front of the trailer for binders and chains. I have D rings in the bed and on the outside of the trailer. Securing equipment is not an issue at all. I paid 6k for mine 2.5 years ago. I have no idea how much money it has made me let alone saved me.


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## bushinspector

avex said:


> Well I will tell you that the best investment I have ever made was purchasing my dump trailer. It is a load trail 14K 14' Goose neck. I pull it with either of my trucks in my signature. I am so very very pleased with its performance. Either machine loads just fine, my ramps are AWESOME. The goose neck is adjustable which makes it nice. Since I have a goose neck I have storage at the front of the trailer for binders and chains. I have D rings in the bed and on the outside of the trailer. Securing equipment is not an issue at all. I paid 6k for mine 2.5 years ago. I have no idea how much money it has made me let alone saved me.


how did you rate getting the D rings on the inside of the trailer. Not fair I have a load trail as well. Does brush hang up on the rings when you dump?


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## user49169

bushinspector said:


> how did you rate getting the D rings on the inside of the trailer. Not fair I have a load trail as well. Does brush hang up on the rings when you dump?


No there are four of them on the floor, 2 in front and 2 in back. Nothing hangs up in there. Pretty smooth.


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## scrapecc

edgnu said:


> And alot of vehicles are going to gave a 20k GVWR unless you're driving an f450 / 550 dually. And 23,999 is max with no CDL.
> 
> Thats the limit before they will take you to jail for not having a CDL. If your over 26K you have to hace a class A if its a combination vehicle. Or class B if its a single vehicle.
> 
> I know this for a fact because I had a dot guy make me park my truck and said It was undriveable by me because I had no class A CDL.:furious:
> 
> Also Load trail and PJ are the same trailer. They are built by a pair of brothers that got into it and one opened up shop across the street from one another. I kinda thought that was funny!


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## diversified svs

. That's alot off a bumper. Check your hitch - You need a class 6. And alot of vehicles are going to gave a 20k GVWR unless you're driving an f450 / 550 dually. And 23,999 is max with no CDL. 



Actually, not meaning to start a pissing match, but I feel someone who has drove 20 plus years and owned their own interstate trucking company for 5 (top of the s**t pile for understand fed regs) needs to clarify a few things before someone gets a ticket. 26k is the threshold for a cdl on a straight truck, and also 10k on a trailer, according to federal law (state laws can be more strict, but not anything less). class c is needed to pull a commercial trailer over 10k no matter what the tow vehicle is, this also mean it needs a breakaway system and a yearly CMV inspection sticker (just like a semi) class b is good for a straight truck (dump, garbage) up to 26k on the tow vehicle no matter what the trailer weight is (may need the special air brake endorsement depending on your setup) a class a is for all the former and a combination where the tow vehicle is over 26k. 

I have had to go fetch more than one person from a scale who did either not know, or who never bothered to ask about the above regulations. over 26 also puts you in the IFTA,IRP, needed USDOT# (free), Fed Med Card regulated interstate FMCSA area too. I don't know about you guys out east, but certain states around here do have reciprocal laws on fuel tax exemptions (here in wi i can go 30 miles into ia, mn, and upper mi without filing quarterly IFTA fuel tax papers) my brother cannot even borrow my smallest trailer, a 2x5200=10,400 gvw 18 foot car trailer due to it is over 10k and he does not have a class c cdl

just my $0.02 before someone gets into trouble.

looking a cop in the eye and saying "I didn't know" is the same as "I wasn't going to care to check into that until I got a ticket so I knew it was worth my time to find out that answer"


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## diversified svs

diversified svs said:


> . That's alot off a bumper. Check your hitch - You need a class 6. And alot of vehicles are going to gave a 20k GVWR unless you're driving an f450 / 550 dually. And 23,999 is max with no CDL.
> 
> 
> 
> breakaway system and a yearly CMV inspection sticker (just like a semi) class b is good for a straight truck (dump, garbage) up to 26k on the tow
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> 
> caught myself not proof reading before posting,,,,,,,,,,,,,
> 
> a class B is good up to 80k on a single unit (cement garbage) or up to 26k total gross when your trailer is over 10k (dually at 12k and a dump trailer at 14k) over 26k at any time with a combination is automatically class A


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## scrapecc

My f350 has a gvw of 12,500, and my trailer is 14,000. Kind of a bummer cause my guys can't drive that truck with that trailer. kind of a pain in the butt. 

Also my hitch is rated for 16,000 pounds. Honestly I hate driving it out here, the thing takes a bit to stop loaded, and the traffic is horrible.


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## diversified svs

*The Law*

Well, if it's anything like around here, only the State Police care unless you get into an accident, pretty much everyone else does not know or does not car as long as you use a pickup and a single tired tandem trailer, now hook a dually to a dual tandem 20 foot big tex or a tri axle and ye shall she.

I cannot see everyone over 10k on their trailer needing a CDL, after all, you can go 10k on a 3/4 ton, then put a 16k trailer behind it and need a B, DOT#, logbook, and a physical and you can go in the US and Canada, but put a dually with it and your actual GVWR is over 26k, you will need a class A and all the other stuff. 

Like anything else, we are not talking right or wrong, we are talking the law. After 18 years of trucking, 3 years owning car haulers running nationwide, I know enough to just stay in state when I only have one truck, hell, I usually don't travel more than 40 miles from home unless for fishing or hunting anymore, jobs that far away put me into Madison where to many scabs work. By staying only intrastate local I have no IFTA, IRP, log book, but I do keep my Class A, with cycle, haz mat, tanker, double and triple trailers, and physical card up to date, you never know when an opportunity will come a knocking.


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## tgeb

It's nice to see someone with good knowledge of the Commercial Vehicle laws.

I have found this, it is specific to NY State, but as you have stated a State can be more restrictive than the Fed DOT but not less.

Welcome to the site Diversified.


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## diversified svs

*Laws*

Like I said, I am in Wisconsin, so a lot of the state laws elsewhere I can't help with, and here they pretty much go with the Fed Laws to keep things simple, but I know other states really sock it to ya guys. BTW, here they also allow the physical exemption, if you had a CDL before 08/94 you do not need a DOT physical for intrastate travel, only interstate, but I keep mine up just in case.


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## scrapecc

:thumbsup:Hey divers, I just noticed the quote you put off my post, was me quoting someone else that had put down mis information. I don't know if you caught that or not. I just figured I would let you know so you didn't think I was arguing. Or had my head up my azz.


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## diversified svs

*Lubed up?*

your forgiven for having your head up your azz as long as you lubed up first:clap:arty:

i have seen some erroneous information posted on here relating to CDL, i may not know it all, but i have passed over 31 level one dot inspections in my life, failed one 3 months into driving in the early 80's (logbook, no one showed me how to cheat good enough) so i also am trying to help even though i have been accused of lubing up a time or too (april 15th?):w00t:


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## scrapecc

I was trying to clarify my head was not up my azz. that quote you quoted off my post wasn't my words. The Quote didn't work correctly. 

So I guess that means no lube needed!:laughing:arty:


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## diversified svs

*Original topic?*

Wasn't the topic suppose to be Dump Trailers here.....hmmm..... things got sidetracked.......again


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## scrapecc

It did, But I did put in my opinion on a dump trailer. I would always look for a scissior lift, and something that is not cheap thin wall box steel. Heavy grade trailers are a little more money, buy well worth it. 

If I would have bought a cheap one, that thing would have been bent by now.


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## diversified svs

*Grades of trailers*

Oh sure, even one maker will have the "Economy" or "Home Owner" line plus a commercial line, but when you look close, hmmmm, same wimpy box on a 14k as a 7k, just a heavier lift pump. What happens when you put 3 cord in a "Economy" dump and take her all the way up to build a pile compared to a good one? The "Economy" twists and groans and  hopefully does not twist off the frame. The good one picks the ass of your truck up by the gooseneck and slides everything forward on ya building a 4 foot tall mound of firewood in their driveway:clap:.


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## WoodenGrassMan

*In the dumps over dump trailers*

Guys,

I need your help. I started doing firewood last year at this time and grass this spring. I'm new to the biz and short on experience and knowledge. 

I spent the past 8 to 9 hours researching dump trailers. I need a dumper that can hold at least two cords of firewood not stacked. I want to go direct from splitter to dump trailer. Then dump the two cords right where my customers want it in their yard.

I want to use same dump trailer to haul my lawn equipment around. It appears no problem on that end.

I read all your posts this thread which helped me sort through the maze. There may be a dump trailer show stopper. Hopefully someone has a solution.

I found PJ Trailers Web and looked hard at the D7 14 ft long, 7' wide. 24" sides are stardard. I need the optional 24" side extensions to give me enough volume for 2 cords of piled firewood. 2 cords stacked equals 256 cu. ft. = 9.5 cu. yds. 7 x 14 x 4 = 392 cu.ft. = 14.5 cu. yds. More than enough space for 2 cords dropped in. 

What about weight? The D7 has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs. Weight per cord ranges from 3,500 lbs for ash to 4,500 lbs for hickory dry, seasoned. Doesn't seem possible. 

Anyway, 4.5K x 2 = 9K which is less than 10K GVWR which means I'm screwed. I couldn't find the D7 empty weight. Someone this thread said 4.5K empty weight for a decent dumper. I looked again real hard. The D7 does in fact weigh 4,500 lbs. Its 5,500 lb payload can not handle two cords of the lightest wood I have. 

Plan B - PJ Dump Trailer 14' - DT614 - Dual Axle. 

GVW = 14,000 lbs. Yet this model weighs less - 4,000 lbs. I was going to rock-n-roll. Then the show stopper. Please tell me I got it wrong. Do I really need a CDL to pull a 14K GVW trailer with my f350. 

Damn it. Do I have it right? If so, what's the work-around. A DT614 or similar dump trailer is perfect for my business needs.

Thanks.


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## diversified svs

Yes, a Class B is required to pull a commercial trailer over 10k no matter what your truck weighs, your truck and trailer are 10k total plated or GVW factory rated you will need commercial insurance to get a USDOT number, imagine your truck is 10 1/2 single tire or 12k dual, then add 10k trailer on for 20.5 to 22k gross, truck and trailer yearly commercial inspections, and watch out for the 26k number, a F350 at 12k and over a 14k trailer be a Class A setup.

I use a 14 [email protected] gross with a gooseneck, even stacked evenly I can do 3 cord with a little over 2k on my ball giving my truck a 9300 gross on 10k plates. I know not everyone has a goose setup, but me personally I never tow anything anymore over 8k with a hitch, once you feel a goose's stability, not to mention I can turn more than 90 degrees, you will never go back to a bumper pull again ( I am a 2 million mile trucker who is used to having the hitch over not behind me.) You could not give me a 10k bumper, had a 7k and hated it, since I have a 3 cord minimum on delivery with trailer, otherwise 3 bucks a mile from my yard to your house, it works for me. 

Well, I put 3 cords loose in a 14 foot Big Tex with a gooseneck using 1 1/2 foot sides to keep from ripping my tarp and it pulls great (except a little ass bucking on gouged pavement) Why not go and get what you should have instead of buying, becoming frustrated, selling for a loss something you should have not bought in the first place, then go buy what you really need? I thought I was smart until I had done it:furious: That 14 of mine is a killer, haul a 9k skid steer across town, dig out a sidewalk in 5 foot chunks (using only the rear 10 foot for easier dumping, slide in from tailgate) then go get wood, brush, gravel, what ever you need it will haul.

My only thing is it is very slow loaded evenly from one end to the other, there is a lot of weight ahead of the scissor to be picked up (re-read the sidewalk part) other than that, if I can tow it, I can dump it.


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## Redneckpete

In my humble opinion:

Dump trailers are a waste of time, fuel and energy. If you want to haul around a machine, do it on an equipment float and tow the float with a dump truck. Dump trucks beat dump trailers in every point of consideration. When hauling equipment, equipment floats beat dump trailers in every point of consideration.

The problem with that equation is that it doesn't include the fancy pickup truck you really want to have. On that point, it sucks if you want a pickup that bad.

Buy equipment that makes you money, and when you can really afford to buy the nice pickup, use it for driving around and looking pretty. Use your dump trucks for hauling your machinery.

Pete


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## diversified svs

Buy equipment that makes you money, and when you can really afford to buy the nice pickup, use it for driving around and looking pretty. Use your dump trucks for hauling your machinery.

Pete[/QUOTE]

disagree, I may only need a dump truck 1 day every other week, or sometimes for 3 days in a row, so, by combining a dump and equipment hauler into one trailer, and pulling it with a pickup I can also drive to any other destinations, it is a smart decision rather than paying insurance and plates on another vehicle that spends most of it's time in the front yard. 

now if i had a small compact hoe and was ripping sidewalks 4 days a week, then i would have a tandem 10 yard and keep it busy, but unless they have 2 way gates i do not want to use them for hauling firewood.


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## wellbuilt home

WoodenGrassMan said:


> Guys,
> 
> I need your help. I started doing firewood last year at this time and grass this spring. I'm new to the biz and short on experience and knowledge.
> 
> I spent the past 8 to 9 hours researching dump trailers. I need a dumper that can hold at least two cords of firewood not stacked. I want to go direct from splitter to dump trailer. Then dump the two cords right where my customers want it in their yard.
> 
> I want to use same dump trailer to haul my lawn equipment around. It appears no problem on that end.
> 
> I read all your posts this thread which helped me sort through the maze. There may be a dump trailer show stopper. Hopefully someone has a solution.
> 
> I found PJ Trailers Web and looked hard at the D7 14 ft long, 7' wide. 24" sides are stardard. I need the optional 24" side extensions to give me enough volume for 2 cords of piled firewood. 2 cords stacked equals 256 cu. ft. = 9.5 cu. yds. 7 x 14 x 4 = 392 cu.ft. = 14.5 cu. yds. More than enough space for 2 cords dropped in.
> 
> What about weight? The D7 has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs. Weight per cord ranges from 3,500 lbs for ash to 4,500 lbs for hickory dry, seasoned. Doesn't seem possible.
> 
> Anyway, 4.5K x 2 = 9K which is less than 10K GVWR which means I'm screwed. I couldn't find the D7 empty weight. Someone this thread said 4.5K empty weight for a decent dumper. I looked again real hard. The D7 does in fact weigh 4,500 lbs. Its 5,500 lb payload can not handle two cords of the lightest wood I have.
> 
> Plan B - PJ Dump Trailer 14' - DT614 - Dual Axle.
> 
> GVW = 14,000 lbs. Yet this model weighs less - 4,000 lbs. I was going to rock-n-roll. Then the show stopper. Please tell me I got it wrong. Do I really need a CDL to pull a 14K GVW trailer with my f350.
> 
> Damn it. Do I have it right? If so, what's the work-around. A DT614 or similar dump trailer is perfect for my business needs.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I don't know about your area but , I pulled my 12000lb trailer on a F 350 12500 gvwr srw truck with commercial plats and insurance with full signage and was told i was ok because the truck trailer combination was under 26000lbs .
> You can throw 2 cords of wood in my 12' trailer .
> I figure 165sq feet of thrown wood = a cord plus i stack the last to rows in the rear of the trailer so it more volume.
> My trailer weights 3300lbs empty 3590 with ramps on board .
> Ive never had 8000lb of split wood in my trailer and i have checked weight many times .
> I would get a 12000lb trailer with a drop axle .
> make sure your tires and axles are rated for 12000lbs Ive seen 12000lb trailers with 10000lb axles and 2650 lb tires .


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