# Framing Walls on a Sloped Slab



## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

You can just chalk it on the ground if you can't use the CM. CM is the best most efficient way. 

_________________


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Californiadecks said:


> CM is the best most efficient way.


If you're just cutting to get an even slope, measure your slab drop, and "square up" one end of the studs to match the drop, then gang cut the other ends. Same approach as 

No marking, and no individual cutting. It's my go-to method. Basically, Larry Haun's technique for cutting a bunch of studs to the same length, but the un-cut ends are lined up out of square to get the right drop, and the other ends cut square as usual.

I don't know how you'd get more efficient than that.


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

If the drop is a even 4" (straight line no undulation) on a 30' run each stud is gonna be about 1/8 longer (4.00/30 = 0.133) 3/16" at the most

This crap wouldn't even pass around here...if slab is grade foundation must be min 8" above grade and if a conc man can't pour a level foundation stuff him in the redi-mix truck


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## Timuhler (Mar 7, 2006)

The fastest way is to use the method I described. It has the least measure and calculating. This is an old method that was taught to me and lots of guys back in the day here and JLC forums used this. 

It was/is a standard way of framing on slabs that are all over the map. 

My experience is that nothing fits perfect in the field that is drawn on a computer, especially framing on concrete. Once you've got a good flat surface you can draw and make a cut list, eg for rakewalls.

As a production framer, learn to love your laser and chalk line :thumbsup::thumbup:


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Timuhler said:


> It was/is a standard way of framing on slabs that are all over the map.


Agreed.


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## 51carpenter (Jul 4, 2016)

Construction master here, just did this a week ago on a garage. It was a shed roof so I used the calculator to figure the rake walls which were level, then I used it to figure the side walls which were on the slope of the slab. 

Took a little playing to get the calculator figured out, usually I just use it for stairs and finding diagonal lengths when checking square. 

How many use the calculator for rake walls? 


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

Good day,
I have been lurking around these forums for a bit and decided to make a account. I was just reading this thread and I can’t for the life of me figure out why you guys would pour a slab 4” out of lvl for a garage? I’m I missing something.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

So water drains out, otherwise could get water pooling in the garage.


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

Are we not talking about a garage here? Water from what? Your car?. Seems crazy, if I showed up to one of my sites and somebody sloped the entire slab 4” to drain the water out the front door I think I would laugh, then cry, then skid everyone.


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## Stilla (Sep 23, 2017)

J.C. said:


> I've never had to do it but, I think I'd probably use a laser level to calculate the slope and construction master to tell me the stud lengths.


Easy to do with the balusters function with the construction calculator buildcal.


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## 402joel (Sep 1, 2011)

Sloping a garage floor here in snow country is mandatory


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

MeanWeen said:


> Are we not talking about a garage here? Water from what? Your car?. Seems crazy, if I showed up to one of my sites and somebody sloped the entire slab 4” to drain the water out the front door I think I would laugh, then cry, then skid everyone.


Drive around in snow, then park your truck in the garage. You'll wish that slab was sloped.


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## Stilla (Sep 23, 2017)

51carpenter said:


> Construction master here, just did this a week ago on a garage. It was a shed roof so I used the calculator to figure the rake walls which were level, then I used it to figure the side walls which were on the slope of the slab.
> 
> Took a little playing to get the calculator figured out, usually I just use it for stairs and finding diagonal lengths when checking square.
> 
> ...


I don't use a calculator for framing, but use a calculator for finish work, which is the same. I use buildcal. It's an app for the phone.


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

I’m sorry guys, I live in northern Canada. You can put a small sump in middle of floor, even dig in a 4” pvc pipe and get finisher to put a small slope to that. The whole “live in snow country I seem what happens” thing doesn’t make sense. So what happens when you drive in the snow melts and rushes out towards the garage door and freezes the thing to the ground? There is so many things wrong with this method I still don’t understand why anyone would do it. Not trying to be a dick. Do you guys supply shims for the customer when they want to put some free standing shelves in, or some wheel chocks for the dude when he is sitting in his chair having a beer:drink::drink:


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

Ok, one more quick question then I am moving on, if the customer wants a man door in the “rake wall”, do you hang it plumb, install out of plumb but good with slab or try to convince won’t meet code.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

MeanWeen said:


> Ok, one more quick question then I am moving on, if the customer wants a man door in the “rake wall”, do you hang it plumb, install out of plumb but good with slab or try to convince won’t meet code.


You can insall these plumb and square and meet code pretty easily. It isn't a side hill, it's maybe 1" in 5' or less slope.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

MeanWeen said:


> I’m sorry guys, I live in northern Canada. You can put a small sump in middle of floor, even dig in a 4” pvc pipe and get finisher to put a small slope to that. The whole “live in snow country I seem what happens” thing doesn’t make sense. So what happens when you drive in the snow melts and rushes out towards the garage door and freezes the thing to the ground? There is so many things wrong with this method I still don’t understand why anyone would do it. Not trying to be a dick. Do you guys supply shims for the customer when they want to put some free standing shelves in, or some wheel chocks for the dude when he is sitting in his chair having a beer:drink::drink:




Do you also install the code mandated oil/water separated for that drain? 

Garages are sloped here. But typically their is a stemwall that is level installed around it first. Slab gets back poured. Garage walls don’t need to be angled then.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

slowsol said:


> Do you also install the code mandated oil/water separated for that drain?
> 
> Garages are sloped here. But typically their is a stemwall that is level installed around it first. Slab gets back poured. Garage walls don’t need to be angled then.


This is how all ours are done.


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

Generally yes we will install an oil interceptor for commercial if the drain is hooked to city services. Residential usually is not hooked to city so not in that situation. Depends on project really.


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## B.Johnson (Sep 17, 2016)

I have never understood why it is that if you have a drain you need an oil separator, but you can force it out of the door and into the ground and that is ok.


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

Usually when hooking to a drain the melt will be using sanitary lines instead of storm lines it would eventually find if out the front door.


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## 51carpenter (Jul 4, 2016)

In town that's the code here, garage slabs slope 1/8" per foot I believe. If the garage is not attached to the house, it's usually a monoslab, cheaper than a foundation. 

Parking in a garage?! They're meant for tools and toys. 


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