# Quick question...Acrylic lacquer over oil based stain?



## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

I've only got one tall cabinet door to finish, but I only have some water based lacquer on hand. Just wondering if I could use that over the oil based stain. I guess I'm trying to avoid buying more lacquer for just one door.


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## CarpenterRN (Dec 3, 2009)

Yes over dry stain, but you may need to seal it first. Check with the manufacturer, or on the container, about that.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Water based over oil is not generally recommended but the manufacturers are changing it up every year. Refer to post #2.


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## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

I'll give it a shot tomorrow after it's dried well. I'll do a test area on the backside first.

Thanks guys!


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## CarpenterRN (Dec 3, 2009)

Make sure what you're using is self-sealing as not all are.


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## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

Ok. I've been having some bad luck with this. The water based finish didn't adhear well so I stripped it and started over. After I restained with Valspar Graintone Plus wiping stain (white), I followed up with a semi-gloss polyurethane. First coat came out great, but after I got the second coat on there I noticed it was yellowing. So now it's stripped again. I'll need to restain it again and spray on another finish. I have a Dunn Edwards near me, that's where I got the stain in the first place. It matches this customers kitchen perfect so no problems there. Anyone got an idea what I should pick up at Dunn Edwards tomorrow? I need a semi-gloss that I can spray on that doesn't yellow. Thought I would ask before I head over there tomorrow.


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## CarpenterRN (Dec 3, 2009)

First, Did you seal the stain or was the lacquer self-sealing? Next, on your new clear coat, was the poly oil based? Oil poly will amber a bit on the first coat, but more noticeably on the second as the amber color builds and then more so over time. Neither acrylic lacquer nor water reduced poly yellows which is why many choose it?


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## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

Stain is oil based. First attempt was water based, says no primer required. Second attempt was oil based poly. Didn't notice the yellow on the first coat, but did on the second coat. The finish was great except the yellowing. Project is stripped and awaiting refinish. Just looking for a semi-gloss finish product that wont yellow.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Wouldn't it be easier to just run down & buy a spray can of deft lacquer? Less than $10. You've wasted more time than that already.


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## CarpenterRN (Dec 3, 2009)

BKFranks said:


> Just looking for a semi-gloss finish product that wont yellow.


Acrylic Lacquer or water reduced poly won't yellow. There is something missing from your finish schedule or information you gave that caused the adhesion issues the first time. If it is a self-sealing acrylic lacquer, then there should be no problems using it alone over stain, water or oil, provided everything was done right.


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## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

pinwheel said:


> Wouldn't it be easier to just run down & buy a spray can of deft lacquer? Less than $10. You've wasted more time than that already.


That's what I used the first time. Waster based Deft semi gloss lacquer. Stuff is crap.


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## woodtradesman (Apr 23, 2008)

Since you're going to Dunn Edwards you might try Valspar Zenith waterborne lacquer.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Is it really yellowing or going off color/hazing? All coats should be gloss until the final finish.

I've never heard of Dunn Edwards, I'm guessing that it's a paint or hardware store. For stain/varnish I go marine and oil. If it's good enough for a $120M yacht, it's good enough for most HO's.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

BKFranks said:


> That's what I used the first time. Waster based Deft semi gloss lacquer. Stuff is crap.


Never mind, I see you're in Cali. You guys got way, way too many voc laws for me to even begin to give you any advice that will help you out.


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