# uneven ceiling coat



## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

I'm doing a small living room repaint using SW Pro200 and a 1/2" SW contrator roller cover. Been having trouble with shadows on the ceiling in part due to uneven pressure or dry time and continuing paint. Do you have any tips to painting and leaving a perfect finish-especially no noticible roller lines?


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I had the same problem a while back. I think my situation was caused by not pushing the paint further considering the extra paint on the 1/2" roller cover and adding additional coats too soon before the previous coat had time to properly dry. I was in a hurry and do not remember if I paid any attention to the leading direction of the roller. This may have caused some problem with pressure on the edges of the roller. I usually can pretty well adjust pressure by feel and sight. I thought I could anyway :sad:. I usually use 3/8", so maybe the 1/2 threw me off.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

The three biggest causes of roller lines are

1) Cheap paint
B) Cheap roller covers
IV) Bad technique


Can't say for the 200 if it's good for ceilings or not
Most of the time a flat, specific to ceiling paint will yield better results and is less forgiving than wall paint
(with a little practice that won't matter any more...but for n00bs, def.)
I'd suggest Ben Moore's Muresco off-hand
I'm sure SWP has something sim.


Those those SW "contractor" sleeve s-u-c-k
(as with most of SW's "contractor" stuff, it's over-priced slightly better than W*M stuff)
At min. get some Purdy White Doves or the SW Contractor 50/50s

Most of the time, the bad technique is people trying to squeeze every last drop of paint out of the roller
Remember to "apply" or "lay" the paint, don't "squish" it on


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

Ok....I respect the slick-miester, but I disagree that every painting issue is resolved by using a different brand or product. Anywho......

The paint and roller cover are fine. I use them ALL the time with no issues. 
I believe your technique is the issue. You need to not be afraid and put some dang paint on the roller, but not so much that you leave lines. You need to span the whole length of the ceiling and then go back. DO NOT DO LITTLE SECTIONS ALL THE WAY DOWN... 1 CONSTANT ROLL is key :thumbsup: 

let us know how that works...


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## painterofeveryt (Apr 8, 2005)

one more small point... if its primed it will take the paint a bit longer to set up ,and dry before it starts to look like crap.....


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## DelW (Jul 7, 2005)

I usually use PM 400 for ceilings and either Wooster 50/50's or Purdy covers and haven't had any problems. Believe it or not I think PM 400 yields better results for ceilings than PM 200.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

Paintguy26 said:


> ...I disagree that every painting issue is resolved by using a different brand or product...


Rich-I agree

My logic for answering this Q this way is this:

Eliminating possible problems is the goal for a n00b situation
(I've got to assume the poster is not as experienced as us to post this Q)
And those are the top three reasons for lines

I can't speak for the paint, but unless it super sucks I wouldn't have a problem with it either
The truth is, however, ceiling paints are much more forgiving for painting ceilings


That leaves rollers/technique
IMO those rollers are not the best choice
Yes, you and I can get them to work
But not necessarily Mr. First Time Ceiling Painter
A better roller would be much more forgiving

Now, with those two items taken care of, or _eliminated as possible/potential problems/problem areas_, we can focus on technique

Yes, technique alone might solve the issues Mr. 72 is having
I agree
In fact, I think that IS the issue here

But w/o seeing him/his work and knowing for sure, I think looking into, and/or addressing the other two top reasons for roller lines on ceilings covers all the bases, helps the n00b understand more of what has to be addressed and/or what's involved in painting a ceiling

It can also help him/her eliminate possibilities other than technique if they know what else causes lines

Just trying to give a quick hit all the bases answer to get the project back on track ASAP


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## Danahy (Oct 17, 2006)

Here's an out of the box sort of look that I've been using lately with pretty good results as of thus far. I can from time to time have weird issues pop up when I'm doing ceilings. I've been doing this long enough to know that my technique is the same all the time, same product, same roller... then what was it? My guess was initially the house.... 

So I called the chemist... I found out in a round about sort of way that with primers & ceiling paints the formula's that make up the paint are "free poured"... meaning not necessarily measured for complete accuracy. I'm not talking about tint either... just the basic binders, levellers, etc. etc...

with that being said, we talked about ulti-matte. It seems that ulti-matte or 602 is like one of those products that was specifically meant for one thing, but has other wicked effects on other things... Kind of like the history of Aspirin... 

Three years ago, I was in a hurry, and painted two coats of ulti-matte over a complete wall unit, that was supposed to only last 3 months, before the tear out of a future renovation. Well needless to say the reno never happened, and the kids took over the wall unit as one of thier play items, storing all kinds of toys taking alot of wear and tear. 

I saw it for the first time one month ago, and couldn't believe my eyes... it was as good as the day I did it. This was two coats ulti-matte over 2 or more previous coats of stain plus 2-3 coats of clear coat.... 

I also discovered that bm's new 319 formula contains all the same products & protection of Kit&Bath and then some... 

.... imo I've been using 319F & 602 on other things that I normally wouldn't. such as ceilings, cabinets, trim etc.... so far so good. It's funny I pay alot less for ceiling paint, but the covered blows compared to the good stuff... is it worth it?... Seems like it to me...

anywho... that's my world at the moment


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

slickshift said:


> Rich-I agree
> 
> My logic for answering this Q this way is this:
> 
> ...


that's why I love slicky so much....so thorough - yeah, I totally agree with your perspective...now as far as other things go....

I wish Martha was in here, I miss her so


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to pick up a 3/8" Purdy cover and keep a wet line, which I was not doing due furnishings in the room. Another issue may be my speed-I wasn't hurrying along enough to complete the ceiling. 
Once again, thanks for the help.


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

72chevy4x4 said:


> I'm going to pick up a 3/8" Purdy cover


This will definitely NOT help you....the more paint you can hold in your nap, the better. But then again, everyone thinks they can learn how to paint by coming in here and asking 2 or 3 questions anyway. I give up


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

72chevy4x4 said:


> I'm going to pick up a 3/8" Purdy cover and keep a wet line, which I was not doing due furnishings in the room. Another issue may be my speed-I wasn't hurrying along enough to complete the ceiling.


Going too slow, not maintaining a wet edge, yeah those ain't helping
3/8...nah, stick with 1/2" min


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## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

72chevy4x4 said:


> Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to pick up a 3/8" Purdy cover and keep a wet line, which I was not doing due furnishings in the room. Another issue may be my speed-I wasn't hurrying along enough to complete the ceiling.
> Once again, thanks for the help.


Stick with the SW contactor cover, best lamb cover out there. Stick with the 1/2 or move up to 3/4. Running to a different product everytime you have trouble isn't going to help you gain skills. The 1/2" roller needs to have lots of paint on it. Move up to the 3/4" instead of down to a shorter nap. Just get the paint on the ceiling, then roll lighty on the last strokes. 

PM 200 is also very, very good for what you are doing. Probably overkill where 400 will work just fine. Ceiling paints, specifically designated for ceilings use color and flat sheen to help hide imperfections. Probably less expensive than 200, but 200 will do the same if you have a flat ceiling white color.

Try rolling in the other direction, across the drywall joints, rather than with them.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

Joewho said:


> Stick with the SW contactor cover, best lamb cover out there....


Ah yes...they do make other "SW Contractor" series covers other than the cheapo I don't care for

Their 50/50 wool/polys are pretty good too


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## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

slickshift said:


> Ah yes...they do make other "SW Contractor" series covers other than the cheapo I don't care for
> 
> Their 50/50 wool/polys are pretty good too


Yeah, i'm talking the 12 dollar ones. Not the ones in the bin on the counter for 3 dollars. The 50/50's are good too. I use them for finer finishes. 

The high dollar lambs need to be cleaned down to the core, otherwise they mat after a few uses. Grooming with a tight pattern wire brush helps keep them in tip top shape. baa, baa.


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## KellyPainting (May 30, 2006)

Roll 2 coats finish...... one one direction ..one the other.

That usually solves allot of errors.


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## steve-in-kville (Aug 30, 2006)

KellyPainting said:


> Roll 2 coats finish...... one one direction ..one the other.
> 
> That usually solves allot of errors.



Second that:thumbup: 

BTW- I've rolled many a ceiling with PM200 and 400. I've even used the "low sheen" (halfway between flat and eggshell). Works just as good as any ceiling paint.


steve


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