# looking for Worm drive case ideas



## Erikfsn (Dec 6, 2009)

I just bought a Makita Hyphoid saw and since it did not come with a case I thought I'd see what other people are doing for a case. A friend puts his in a canvas bag. I may end up doing the same.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I am not much of a fan of tool cases. I do love the canvas bags, but mostly for smaller hand tools. A worm drive is a pretty tough tool that in my opinion doesn't really need a case. Not to mention that it will only add to the weight. If you must have a case however, maybe one of those large cases that the cordless combos come in may be big enough.


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## gdwoodbutcher (May 4, 2010)

I agree, I've never had a case, can't see the need. I keep wrench in handbox, never check grease, and keep new blades under seat of truck. Never had a problem with a saw that case would have prevented. As for that combo case, I took my tools out of it , feels to much like luggage. But thats just me.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Naaa,,*

Canvas bag,,, Warren:thumbsup:
Brian


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

I have a couple Plano 20" tool boxes with a top tray. Got them at least 15 years ago. I used to keep my Skilsaws in them to make the side boxes of my truck cap more organized. The tray was convenient for the saw wrench, rip guide, stair gauges, etc. They have held up well, but now they are loaded with my powder actuated nailers and corded screw guns.:thumbsup:
Very similar to this newer model.


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## gdwoodbutcher (May 4, 2010)

rip guide? wow, is that what those little slots are for, are thought they just made foot lighter


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

gdwoodbutcher said:


> rip guide? wow, is that what those little slots are for, are thought they just made foot lighter


 That's what I thought for the first 10 years.:laughing:

I've actually found many uses for it over the years.:whistling


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I don't think I have used a rip guide in at least 20 years. Thats what the index finger on left hand is for right? If its gotta be that accurate, I will get the table saw. Also the auxillary handle that comes with the crappy little drills. If I need that much power, I am gonna use a better drill.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Warren said:


> I don't think I have used a rip guide in at least 20 years. Thats what the index finger on left hand is for right? If its gotta be that accurate, I will get the table saw. Also the auxillary handle that comes with the crappy little drills. If I need that much power, I am gonna use a better drill.


 Many times, while framing bastard hip roofs,I'll rip the steeper pitched rafter, to get it to plane to center on hips and valleys. This method also comes in handy to make the inside angle meet at the corner, instead of being offset. I use this technique on bastard octagons quite often.


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## gdwoodbutcher (May 4, 2010)

I used somebody's Makita about 20 years ago, and thought it really torqued when I pulled trigger, compared to Skil. Wonder if they have changed. At least I imagine they are made in Japan, and not China like my favorite brand is now.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

And how does the engineer feel about that? That does seem like a lot of work. We would usually just fur down the shallower (is that a word?) pitch ones.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Warren said:


> And how does the engineer feel about that? That does seem like a lot of work. We would usually just fur down the shallower (is that a word?) pitch ones.


 The architect/engineer that drew most of the plans I worked off of specified "ripped to meet center of hip/val". Primarily because the GC requested it of him. Those framing members are always over sized to get a higher R-value in the sloped ceiling.

As for being a lot of work, I always looked at it as a challenge to make it work. That's what made it fun for me.:thumbsup:

I've done the fir down method as well.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

My WD sits in this beside 2 sidewinders:










Unless I don't have my lock box with me, then they move from it to one of these:










My cordless sidewinder sleeps in one of these:










I never use to use a rip guide until I was in a position where I needed to rip a whole pile of plywood strips by myself. Since that day I use the rip guide for as much as I possibly can. If I can avoid using the table saw I will.

A saw is a lot lighter and easier to move then a sheet of wood.


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## wellbuilthome (Feb 5, 2008)

Since most of the tool boxes are molded plastic now and wast so much space I started making my own boxes out of oak with AC pine sides or SS .
I can make them so they fit in my weather guard truck boxes exactly and hold every thing i need for a tool 
My 71/4 worm drive sits in a custom ply wood box with blades for the other saws . I use a 8" for cutting pavers and concrete , a old 71/4 for cutting roofing and a 101/4 big foot for timber and headers . 
Most of the time the saws just sit on a gang box shelf. Or in the shop .
I have a bunch of Makita 71/4 mag sidewinders that sit out naked in the truck the boxes are way to big to keep.I did have a plastic skill box for a wile but its big . John


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## BuiltByMAC (Mar 11, 2006)

Fits my worm drive, jigsaw and sawzall along w/ blades, wrenches etc.

Have another identical bag that holds all drills and accessories.

30 lbs ea (+/-), one in each hand, away you go.

Mac


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