# Tool for holding up cabinets



## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

I thought I saw a tool to hold up wall cabinets, for ease of instalation. Something that is vertically adjustable. 

Did a Google search, but I am not getting any hits, I am not even sure what to call it.

thanks,

Bruce


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## jproffer (Feb 19, 2005)

http://www.cabjack.com/

maybe that? 

EDIT:


> One man can now do the work of two with this incredible cabinet installation support tool


It's not THAT incredible. It's a pair of screw jacks, granted they seem to be very widely adjustable screw jacks...18" to 8 feet according to the site, but screw jacks none-the-less. There is a laser level built in, but if you can't level them yourself, especially with your hands all freed up with your new $295 screw jacks..ahem...CABINET JACKS(TM)...then you're too lazy to be in the construction trades anyway. :cheesygri


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## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

*preorder?*

Yeah I refined my search and found that site but it appears that they are not available yet.

Maybe it's time to bust out the Mig welder and get creative.

Thanks for the reply.


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## Bjd (Dec 19, 2003)

Milk Crates?

they work for me, and they make life easy to pick up later,

BJD


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## Grumpy (Oct 8, 2003)

The tool I used to hold up my cabinets when I was mounting them is called "A helper"


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## Longacre (Jun 7, 2005)

Grumpy said:


> The tool I used to hold up my cabinets when I was mounting them is called "A helper"



Same here, that tool also cleans up at the end of the day and even goes to fetch lunch!


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## bountyhunter (Feb 9, 2005)

Yea, I use a couple of 2x4's cut to size.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Bruce - do you install wall cabinets first or after counter cabinets?

If after- look at Fastcap Little Hand - 








http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/other/fastcap/little_hand.htm?E+coastest

If first- look at Fastcap 3rd Hand -

There is also the Fastcap Jack of all trades -


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I always install the wall cabinets first, why hurt yourself trying to work over the bases.
To install: pop your chalk line, screw straight 1X4's or ripped 3/4 ply strips on the line and to the studs. Cut a 2X4 with a base screwed to one end to the same height. Boost the cabinet up and hang it on the strip, then support the outside with the 2X.
Done properly, they should be leveled by the strip, all you have to do is shim and fasten. I do this even with helpers.


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## catalfanoc (Feb 11, 2005)

yeah teetorbilt's way is the easiest one i found yet, people have been using that method for years me included hasn't failed yet.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Dad taught me a looong time ago, I'm sure that it wasn't a new idea back then.


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## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

*.*

Thanks for all the input. Alot of the cabinets I install are HD or Lowes and they are not very accurately made.

A couple of times using the strips I wasn't able to get the cabs to align because of the variances in placement of the attaching board. I needed to go a little lower but obviously coundn't. Next time I will double check it.

Mike that is exactly what I am looking for thanks for the link, it will come in handy especially when Manual Labor doesn't make it to work because the dog ate his homework.


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## jproffer (Feb 19, 2005)

> especially when Manual Labor doesn't make it to work because the dog ate his homework.


3 strikes and your OUT. Maybe it's time for ol' Manual to find a different place to call in to.
Just for the record....if your really sick, that's one thing...but the dog ate the homework comment says to me that, that's not the case.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Tonka, I don't think that the problem is in the cabinets, they are made with CNC equipment and assembled in fixtures. I'm guessing that the problem is in the home construction.
I always use a 7ft. level to find the lowest point on the ceiling for wall cabinets and the highest point on the floor for bases. Use these points as a start for your measures and you shouldn't have any problems. You will have gaps at the ceiling and floor that can be caulked or trimmed (my preference).


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Tonkadad said:


> A couple of times using the strips I wasn't able to get the cabs to align because of the variances in placement of the attaching board. I needed to go a little lower but obviously coundn't. Next time I will double check it.


If you have help on the job I think it is a good idea to join as many of the boxes together in a run as you can prior to installing them. 

Do you have those special clamps designed for this? - I think they are called cabinet claws? You clamp and drill and screw all at the same time with them.









I also like to use Rockler's jig for drilling cabinet pulls to speed things up dramatically.


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Teetorbilt said:


> You will have gaps at the ceiling and floor that can be caulked or trimmed (my preference).


A little caulk, a little paint, makes a carpenter what he ain't! :cheesygri


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## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

Teetor,

I think you are spoiled on the accuracy of the high end cabinets that you install (probably because you make them yourself). I usually just use a strip to get the corner up there and then run off that one.

The last two kitchen cabs I installed one each HD & Lowes, either had excess glue on the bottom of the attaching board or when measured, the face frames relative to the attaching boards were at least an 1/8" off from one cab to another.

I use the PLS2 to check for the low/high spot, the nice thing is I am able to measure from the front to the back of the ceiling and anywhere inbetween along my line of wall cabinets. If I am running cabs on both walls the laser makes it a breeze. Thanks for sharing how you do it.

Mike, thanks for all of the info on the tools.

Anybody notice that alot of the sites for tools on sale have the exact same reviews and same prce as Amazon. Am I missing something?

regads,

Bruce


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

Yes, HD and Lowe's cabs are best installed a little 'off' to look their best!! :cheesygri 

Leave it to the Big Box stores to make a 'straight line' cause failure!! :cheesygri


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## RJS123 (Aug 7, 2005)

A couple of well placed 1x2's for support ( preferably oak) does the trick for me. Always hang the uppers first.


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## BobTheBuilder2 (Aug 14, 2005)

You can use a load bar that truck drivers use to secure their loads. it has rubber pads on both ends and is adjustable. that is what I use and it works well. the lever on the side of the bar works on a ratchet and you can jack up the cabinet.


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