# Picture framing when cutting in...



## kevbo (Jun 26, 2007)

I'm using Shewin Williams super paint, nylon/poly brush and 3/4" nap roller on heavy texture. When I cut in a wall lately I'm getting picture framing. I lay it on thick and roll as close as I can to the ceilings trying to feather it out.....? Is my 3/4" nap laying on to much paint up next to my cut in??


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## Gough (May 1, 2010)

kevbo said:


> I'm using Shewin Williams super paint, nylon/poly brush and 3/4" nap roller on heavy texture. When I cut in a wall lately I'm getting picture framing. I lay it on thick and roll as close as I can to the ceilings trying to feather it out.....? Is my 3/4" nap laying on to much paint up next to my cut in??


How soon after cutting are you rolling? Since I gave up on SW paints years ago (p-poor service in my area), I haven't tried super paint, but we've encountered some paints that require us to roll right after cutting in.

Are your cut-ins thin compared to where you've rolled? Are you trying hard to finish the job in one coat?


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## Rob PA (Aug 30, 2010)

I think there was a poll about about this on here awhile back. There was a wide variety of thoughts. I have noticed that, sometimes when your trying to one coat it will show up more. So, I always do two coats of finish. Some paints I have noticed its best to roll then cut in. Others the other way around.


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## kevbo (Jun 26, 2007)

I guess I should have descibed my issue as 'Banding".
No matter how thick I apply my cut in it seems thin next to the rolled.

As far as one coat....I've never seen any one have to cut in twice and since the Super paint has built in primer w/one coat hide, generally a second flash coat is sufficent.
If multiple coats was the remidy, I would think my issue would be the oppisite...thin rolled and solid cut in.


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## NTP74 (Feb 1, 2011)

What is the finish , not that it would make a huge difference. But might with a 3/4 nap. You said it's textured....is the texture the same near the ceiling, windows etc..(cut in areas)
I've seen ppl not carry over the same texture in the middle of wall as areas around doors,windows, ceiling etc..just an idea.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

kevbo said:


> I've never seen any one have to cut in twice


Seriously?
Only thing I never have to cut in twice is stucco which is cut once and roll twice. Even if its a same color repaint but your going flat to eggshell it takes 2 coats to get an even sheen. Picture framing comes from uneven sheen where the roller and brush overlap, if this is happening it needs a second coat.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

kevbo said:


> I guess I should have descibed my issue as 'Banding".
> No matter how thick I apply my cut in it seems thin next to the rolled.
> 
> As far as one coat....I've never seen any one have to cut in twice and since the Super paint has built in primer w/one coat hide, generally a second flash coat is sufficent.
> If multiple coats was the remidy, I would think my issue would be the oppisite...thin rolled and solid cut in.


For me, 2 coats = Cut twice and Roll twice.:thumbup:

-Paul


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## ltd (Nov 26, 2010)

i use super paint all the time no problems .on a texture wall hat banding ,pitcher framing ,should not be an issue.what i do is cut in ,not heavy not light ,just cut in about 6 feet at a time then load up roller start out about a little more than half way up the wall and roll up to the gut then down to the bottom. you dont have to go super fast but keep moving oh yea for a texture wall i never use any thing more than a 1/2 inch purdy white dove


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## Bergmeister (Feb 17, 2011)

If i notice banding or framing issues its typically with a color which has a certain color of toner, one of the gold toners SW uses. Long ago when i questioned my SW store about this, that's what they told me.... it's more an issue due to the color. 

I normally use pro-mar 200 for interior, or duration, sometimes color accents, Super paint is my go to for exterior work.

this week i asked about the new "no VOC' PM-200 and the SW store manager told me it covers better, dries quicker, touches up better, less prone to banding and only cost me .60 more pre gallon. I'll give it a try soon, have any of you guys used it yet?


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## NTP74 (Feb 1, 2011)

Rolled out some test samples of the 0voc pm200 , honestly , it does seem like a really good product. But time will tell. 
Trying telling them you wanna pay the same price as you are paying for regular pm & you might get it !


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## jsheridan (Mar 12, 2011)

Bergmeister said:


> If i notice banding or framing issues its typically with a color which has a certain color of toner, one of the gold toners SW uses. Long ago when i questioned my SW store about this, that's what they told me.... it's more an issue due to the color.
> 
> My experience as well. I find the same thing with Ben Moore yellows, it happens with some golds, green, any color that uses certain yellows. Apparently, certain tints highlight the differences in texture between brushed and rolled paints, which produces a slightly different shade. I just keep roller stop lines as close and as uniform as possible. If the customer asks, I explain and tell them I did the best I could to reduce the impact. If there is no uniformity, it looks like holy s%$&. I was told by a trusted one that there's no beating it, so I just join it.


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## Paintedlady101 (Feb 26, 2011)

I make sure I box the paint if it's by the gallon , if it's a 5 then I have found the key is to stir, stir and keep stirring . I have found that The pigment in SW paint tend to settle and change when exposed to
the air for any length of time. Also try cutting back on the nap to a half inch, sometime more IS too much. I do roll and cut in last, but I only do one wall at a time. If you cut in first you have to keep wet edges to keep it from hat banding. The only paint that you can actually leave the cut in and come back to later , is truly flat paint. If the salesman tells you it's washable , then it is not truly flat paint. Even with flat, when you come back to roll if you don't shake and stir you may still end up with the dreaded hat band. I never fell to tell my guys, " shake , stir and keep your edges wet. " I hope some of this may have helped you.


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

It is necessary with some colors to keep a wet edge.


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## MarvinWilleyJr (Sep 26, 2006)

Caught a guy working with me using one of the gallons as a cut pot, which I believe was causing a similar problem. He would pour up 3 gallons or so and box it up... But then just use one of the cans as a cut pot, which has more colorant I believe in it. He says I boxed it, but he pour the boxed paint into a somewhat different color.

if that makes sense lol


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## Bergmeister (Feb 17, 2011)

no doubt extra stiring and boxing can only help to reduce banding, as well as not cutting out of the bottom of a gallon. 

Also an update on SW Zero VOC promar 200, i've been using it exclusively on interior repaints, very satisfied. 
Just today finished a job with a goldish tone color called Gold Promise Used low sheen and no signs of banding, we did not take any extra measures to prevent banding just cut and roll as usual. 

The Zero Voc does cover better, cover farther, and touch up nicely, eventually it's all we'll be using do to EPA regulation anyhow, glad the product is better to use versus worse


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