# Installing new subfloor over original/laid on 45 degrees



## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

I'm just trying to get information on best practice. I've read online that it's best to screw this 45 degree flooring down to ensure that it's secured. Afterwards, glue and screw 3/4 plywood on top of the original subfloor. However, I've read that I shouldn't screw the plywood into the floor joists, as it should be independent from the original joists?

Does someone have a good link that I could follow with step to step directions?

Also can someone give me there preferences for material... Plywood/OSB/T&G etc. Nails, staples or screws etc... Glue Pl400?

Thanks.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

How about an intro? Who are you? What do You do? Unfortunately we get a lot of HO here asking these very questions.


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

TNTSERVICES said:


> How about an intro? Who are you? What do You do? Unfortunately we get a lot of HO here asking these very questions.


I'm a certified bricklayer, I've introduced myself on that forum. I'm currently renovating my own home though, and am comfortable with my trades skills to tackle a subfloor on my own. 

Would you prefer I take this question to the DIY forum? 

I'm new, I wasn't sure if a tradesperson was encouraged to take questions pertaining to a trade they don't have to the DIY forum.

Having said that, I'll admit, I didn't search the forum before asking my question. I'm new to this forum, so I'm not yet sure of the etiquette... but I'm a quick learner .


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Antropovsky said:


> I'm a certified bricklayer, I've introduced myself on that forum. I'm currently renovating my own home though, and am comfortable with my trades skills to tackle a subfloor on my own.
> 
> Would you prefer I take this question to the DIY forum?
> 
> ...


No worries. We have an intro section and is encouraged to start an introduction thread.

And this is a site for contractors. You qualify so ask away. Nothing really is off the table other than some pricing questions.

Welcome to CT!


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

As per your OP, I screw to structure. I also glue the second layer.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Yes avoid screwing to structure with your second layer. I prefer plywood and avoid OSB. I wouldnt use T&G in this situation.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tom M said:


> Yes avoid screwing to structure with your second layer. I prefer plywood and avoid OSB. I wouldnt use T&G in this situation.


Why?


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Which part? I just dont like osb in general. As for the laminating, the TCNA and other sources all advise not nailing to the joists in the cap layer.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Right, but the question remains as to why.

The OP didn't state that he was installing tile. He also stated the subfloor was at a 45. I am assuming it isn't plywood but 1x. If this is the case. I would recommend fastening the ply to the joists. If he plans to tile using a crack isolation membrane would resolve any issue with movement.

The TCNA doesn't cover every scenario or situation. While it is a good resource we shouldn't just blindly look at it and say do it because they said so. Understanding the why is just as important.

I also agree about OSB. Don't like it at all.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

One reason to not screw to structure would be screw length. If youre running 2 or 3 inch screws blind, no marking of meps, then theres a good chance of hitting them on the second layer. If youre using 1.5 inch on two layers 3/4 no worries.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Marking layout isn't a big deal.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

First off, why are you adding a second layer. As soon as you answer that I'll give you my opinion


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

I don't get why tile standards are being referenced when the guy said nothing about tile. First layer of plywood should be fastened to joists. The reason for this is painfully obvious.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Marking layout isn't a big deal.


Just gonna transfer marks from the 18 inch crawl space to the sub floor?

Scope the joist bays in multi family and condos?

For example...


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

Hey Bricklayer- rough work like us.
My post is my opinion and may not reflect standards, though NWFA is reputable in their advice and should be used as a guide to minimize potential problems.
Subfloor should be fastened securely, twist nails, screws, something with sticking power, not just a cylindrical shape, not that it's prohibited. APA plywood is best. So second layer should be fastened to subfloor 8" in field and maybe 4" around perimeter in a fan pattern as to not trap air. I don't put adhesive between layers maybe unless it was full spread to again avoid any gaps.
We usually gap the sheets @ 1/8", we check moisture in subfloor and new plywood which should be acclimated, some of it is soaked. I like cleats for fastening and they shouldn't protrude below the subfloor.
There's a lot to hardwood, most of its moisture related.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

You never glue the second layer to the first. Ask any carpenter.


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

hi everyone and thanks for the responses. Sorry I didn't give any background information on my project. 

the floor I'm working on is in the kitchen of a old house with floor joist spacing around 21" apart (it varies within this general area). The flooring was built up several layers. 1) Lino, 2) then a thin pressboard, 3) then a thin plywood, 4) underneath that a tongue and groove plank, 5) and beneath that is a plank subfloor laid on a 45 degree angle. I currently have yet to remove the tongue and groove planks.

the reason I'm intending to put plywood on top of the original subfloor is because outside of this kitchen area, the rest of the house has hardwood throughout. So I wanted to match the height of the hardwood, which would allow me to put a laminate flooring throughout the entire house, keeping the floor height all the same. 

Before you guys kill me for covering the hardwood with laminate, I'll let you know that I really wanted to restore the original hardwood, keeping the character and the better quality material, but I also removed a load bearing wall, and I think it would be difficult to transition into this area where the hardwood isn't. 

Thoughts?


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Metro M & L said:


> Just gonna transfer marks from the 18 inch crawl space to the sub floor?
> 
> Scope the joist bays in multi family and condos?
> 
> For example...


You are down to the subfloor. How could you miss them? The subfloor is attached to them. Follow the line of fasteners.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

rusty baker said:


> You never glue the second layer to the first. Ask any carpenter.


The recommendations that I have seen say that you can. And suggest full coverage of titebond. I even think that Matt posted some photos a few years ago on a floor that he did.

I also heard, but can't confirm, that it adds to the strength when it is glued.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> You are down to the subfloor. How could you miss them? The subfloor is attached to them. Follow the line of fasteners.


Ships passing in the wind


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

_But why? That's the question._

It's a matter of best practices. Causing a future problem out of spite is you putting yourself before everyone else. A perfect example is carpet going in before baseboards. If you care about the rest of the world you live in, you leave a full inch gap because you're a professional, not a sadist, and you know that if you put your strip against the sheetrock, some poor bastard is going to have to tear off all the baseboards the next time they get their carpet replaced. 

That said, tile is different. It is supposed to last the life of the structure, but I really do think that model has passed except for in schools and prisons. The leaving the second layer free of the framing, however, is for the sake of the tile assembly. The idea, anyway, is that stiff winds can move the dwelling slightly, but having that second layer (under tile) fastened to the first layer and not the framing members, makes for a more shock resistant assembly. I tell ya whut, though, if I had to get to l/720 for stone, I'd bet money that full spreading one thick layer of plywood to another with a solvent based adhesive would make a crazy stiff assembly. They'd have to move if they wanted a different floor. hehe


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> For what its worth, this seems to have turned into a goat poke. The guy is putting in laminate. That's like rolling out a rug. If its specifically a tile trivia thing, the second layer should NOT be fastened to the framing members. I think someone referenced Peter Nielsen's paper on doing the second layer on the quarter points. I admit it's counter intuitive, but he really made his case well. Cool guy, too. He really embarrassed the crap out of me one day when he was showing slides that showed off the Schluter shower system and it had the chrome rondec and dilex. I said," I think it's cool functionally, but it looks like something out of a motor home. Is that just a European thing?" That's when he told me in front of a room full of people, "Those pictures are actually from my master bathroom. They're what we used for the brochure."
> 
> I wonder who the biggest a-hole was. Me or him. hehe


You are being honest, not some arse kissing smoozer.

As for not nailing to joists, do you have a reference. I have yet to find any hard data for that recommendation.


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

Hi everyone, thanks for your responses. 

I noticed a few people asking why I wanted to remove the tongue and groove 1x's. 

attached is a picture of the room, now that I've gutted everything.

As you can see the tongue and groove has a few holes cut through it from when previous owners moved vents and plumbing. Also as you can see in the bottom right corner, the tongue and groove is slightly higher than the hardwood in the adjacent rooms. My reason I was going to remove it, was to get to the original plank subfloor, then put a plywood flooring ontop of it to match the height of the hardwood. Next I'd install my new kitchen cabinets. Then after, laminate throughout all rooms (small house). 

Does anyone oppose to me removing the tongue and groove in favour of new plywood?


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

ccoffer said:


> For what its worth, this seems to have turned into a goat poke. The guy is putting in laminate. That's like rolling out a rug. If its specifically a tile trivia thing, the second layer should NOT be fastened to the framing members. I think someone referenced Peter Nielsen's paper on doing the second layer on the quarter points. I admit it's counter intuitive, but he really made his case well. Cool guy, too. He really embarrassed the crap out of me one day when he was showing slides that showed off the Schluter shower system and it had the chrome rondec and dilex. I said," I think it's cool functionally, but it looks like something out of a motor home. Is that just a European thing?" That's when he told me in front of a room full of people, "Those pictures are actually from my master bathroom. They're what we used for the brochure."
> 
> I wonder who the biggest a-hole was. Me or him. hehe


Haha that's a great story. Also thanks for your responses.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

_ I have yet to find any hard data for that recommendation. _
Hard data and recommendations are different things. Are you asking for a chart? An equation?

A reference? Are you claiming you do this for a living and you have never heard to not fasten tile underlayment to the framing? Are you just being a girl, or do you really not know? I can never tell with you.

Try this one, hero.

I can find twenty others for you, but why have you not already found this out on your own?


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

_Does anyone oppose to me removing the tongue and groove in favour of new plywood? _

You won't hear a peep from me. When its been through that many seasons, the wood fiber is pretty much dead in terms of reactivity to most moisture swings. Over time, the cell walls lose their resiliency and just sort of lay down and relax. This is why sometimes you can replace part of a job that got messed up, get the same readings all over, and then your new stuff cups to high heaven while the old stuff just lays there even though they were all at the same MC. But its your sandwich. Build it however you'd like.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> _But why? That's the question._
> 
> It's a matter of best practices. Causing a future problem out of spite is you putting yourself before everyone else. A perfect example is carpet going in before baseboards. If you care about the rest of the world you live in, you leave a full inch gap because you're a professional, not a sadist, and you know that if you put your strip against the sheetrock, some poor bastard is going to have to tear off all the baseboards the next time they get their carpet replaced.
> 
> That said, tile is different. It is supposed to last the life of the structure, but I really do think that model has passed except for in schools and prisons. The leaving the second layer free of the framing, however, is for the sake of the tile assembly. The idea, anyway, is that stiff winds can move the dwelling slightly, but having that second layer (under tile) fastened to the first layer and not the framing members, makes for a more shock resistant assembly. I tell ya whut, though, if I had to get to l/720 for stone, I'd bet money that full spreading one thick layer of plywood to another with a solvent based adhesive would make a crazy stiff assembly. They'd have to move if they wanted a different floor. hehe


I don't think I've suggested doing things just to make it hard to take apart.

However, if I believe it will help my installation, but at the same time make for a more difficult demo, I'm not going to consider the next guy.

I still don't understand if I am installing a crack isolation membrane why it would be a problem.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

What do you imagine the benefit being? Is it for the sake of your customer? If so, how? It seems more a fetish than cause for action.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

http://www.schluter.com/5138.aspx


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> What do you imagine the benefit being? Is it for the sake of your customer? If so, how? It seems more a fetish than cause for action.


Gluing makes it stiffer. Helps reduce deflection between the joists.

Screwing to joists just makes sense in the case of going over diagonal plank and doesn't cause any further work to demo at a later date.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

Uggh. There is no such thing as "deflection between joists". What you're describing is called curvature. I won't argue that stacking a bunch up won't reduce curvature, but we're talking about wildly different phenomena. Deflection occurs across the span of a joist. 

Is this a joke?


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

BTW; More plywood will reduce deflection. And curvature. Some people claim more plywood won't affect deflection, but they're wrong.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> Uggh. There is no such thing as "deflection between joists". What you're describing is called curvature. I won't argue that stacking a bunch up won't reduce curvature, but we're talking about wildly different phenomena. Deflection occurs across the span of a joist.
> 
> Is this a joke?


Really? Why do you feel the need to be a prick? Just tell someone that they are using the wrong term, or what you think is the wrong term.

However, I have read in many places concerning deflection of joists as well as deflection of the entire floor system. One would have to conclude that there is more than one definition of deflection. And that deflection is more of a measurement in the movement of a structure or a part of the structure in a certain direction.

I've also learned that curvature is measure across parts or the entire plywood assembly, meaning the joist are involved in that curvature. 

BTW, joists have curvature as well. 

So when I said the deflection between the joists, you knew what I meant. My conclusion was that laminating the second layer will only help that movement between the joists.

The funny thing about this discussion is that the conclusions around this building science is ever changing. What they thought they knew yesterday will change tomorrow. There is talk concerning using floor system curvature measurements as the standard not deflection of floor joists.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I like the word vertical movement.
Curvature is "art"

The plank looks like a mess, I would pull it and put down "pretty" wood.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

ccoffer said:


> BTW; More plywood will reduce deflection. And curvature. *Some people claim more plywood won't affect deflection, but they're wrong.*


They're probably confusing it with what they read about adding cement board on top of a subfloor.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Just to add to the confusion, there is differential deflection from joist to joist as described in this article:http://www.structuremag.org/?p=1131

The gist of the article is that long manufactured joists can have different deflection because of a supporting (whether intended or not) wall under only some of the joists decreasing their deflection compared to non-supported joists which would deflect more. That seems obvious but can be forgotten. It can cause tiles to crack even though the floor is built to code following the manufactures' deflection numbers.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

_However, I have read in many places concerning deflection of joists as well as deflection of the entire floor system. One would have to conclude that there is more than one definition of deflection._

One can make stuff up if one would like, but deflection (when the context is tile) means movement of framing members. Curvature (again, when the context is tile) describes movement of panels between framing members. If you'd like to invent your own vocabulary, just submit it to TCNA and maybe they'll change it all for you.

Geez.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> _However, I have read in many places concerning deflection of joists as well as deflection of the entire floor system. One would have to conclude that there is more than one definition of deflection._
> 
> One can make stuff up if one would like, but deflection (when the context is tile) means movement of framing members. Curvature (again, when the context is tile) describes movement of panels between framing members. If you'd like to invent your own vocabulary, just submit it to TCNA and maybe they'll change it all for you.
> 
> Geez.


LOL...

http://www.schluter.com/5140.aspx

Just can't have a conversation without being a prick.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I also want to understand something, are you saying that the tile industry uses its own terms. You kept saying, when the context is tile. That would mean that the TCNA made up it's own terms? I would think we are discussing terms that are universal in building science. 

But I like how you made yourself a nice little out.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

TNTSERVICES said:


> That would mean that the TCNA made up it's own terms?


Its more likely the TCNA refered the specs from the link I posted earlier on the APA website as being best practice.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tom M said:


> Its more likely the TCNA refered the specs from the link I posted earlier on the APA website as being best practice.


Point being the TCNA is using building science terms. There's none of this when the context is tile. They at using structural engineering terms.

He is saying that I am making things up. It's just what I have read on industry literature.


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

Both joists and sheathing deflect given an applied load. 
Both joists and sheathing have a radius of curvature given an applied load
The radius of curvature and deflection are not linearly related (read “caclus n’ sh*t is involved”)

The most likely reason why people in the tile industry refer to them differently is given in the summary of the referenced article:


> The predicted curvature of the joists used in these assemblies is approximately 10% of the predicted curvature of the sheathing systems. This fact suggests the possibility that limiting the curvature of the plywood assembly by design may help prevent tile cracking and grout problems in residential applications.


Deflection is the predominant metric for describing joists given the very low arc of curvature for standard deflection (more of a bouncy issue). In sheathing the radius of curvature is the more important metric for determining if a brittle materials like tile will crack. 

Thanks for the debate. It’s seemingly simple questions like this one that I learn the most from. Still trying to process the physics of the other article saying why it's better to not fasten underlayment to joists though.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> Uggh. There is no such thing as "deflection between joists". What you're describing is called curvature. I won't argue that stacking a bunch up won't reduce curvature, but we're talking about wildly different phenomena. Deflection occurs across the span of a joist.
> 
> Is this a joke?


Here's one from the TCNA:

_What is the acceptable deflection for a floor that will be tiled?

Traditionally, the accepted minimum requirement for floor rigidity is L/360 - before the tile underlayment is installed. The L/360 standard means that the floor should not deflect more than the "span" divided by 360. If the span of the joists is 10 feet (between supports), then the deflection should not be more than 1/3" between the center and the end. Frequently, there is misunderstanding regarding deflection between joists. For example, while joist manufacturers regularly meet the standard L/360 criteria for code construction with 24" o.c. (on center) systems, *these floors often have deflection between the joists exceeding L/360.*

Recent research has shown tile to fail, under some conditions, when the floor is more rigid than L/360. In fact, failures at L/600 have been observed. It is for this reason that recommendations for floor rigidity are not based on deflection measurements but on empirically established methods found to work over normal code construction._

I bolded the area where I picked up the term deflection between the joists. So this is the TCNA that you stated I should reference. What am I missing?

FOR THE RECORD, this is what you said:



ccoffer said:


> Uggh. *There is no such thing as "deflection between joists".* What you're describing is called curvature. I won't argue that stacking a bunch up won't reduce curvature, but we're talking about wildly different phenomena. Deflection occurs across the span of a joist.
> 
> Is this a joke?


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## MarcoPollo (Dec 6, 2014)

m1911 said:


> They're probably confusing it with what they read about adding cement board on top of a subfloor.


I am probably going to be flamed for this. Properly thinset to a subfloor in good shape, would this not stiffen the floor? This was the method I use when floor height difference becomes part of the equation.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

Thinset will not stiffen the floor. Not enough to make any difference anyway.


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## MarcoPollo (Dec 6, 2014)

What do you use for stiffening when floor height difference is a consideration? I understand you can throw 3/4" plywood down however when you add that to 3/8" tile, apart from a stone transition the entire thickness of your door frame, how can you attone for the floor height discrepancy?


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Dont plywood or mud at the door jamb if you use a saddle. You can cheat some hieght with the stone and thinset. Can get a beveled one as well.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

MarcoPollo said:


> What do you use for stiffening when floor height difference is a consideration? I understand you can throw 3/4" plywood down however when you add that to 3/8" tile, apart from a stone transition the entire thickness of your door frame, how can you attone for the floor height discrepancy?


Sometimes, you can't.


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

ccoffer said:


> Uggh. There is no such thing as "deflection between joists". What you're describing is called curvature. I won't argue that stacking a bunch up won't reduce curvature, but we're talking about wildly different phenomena. Deflection occurs across the span of a joist.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a joke?



All through out my schooling to become a journeyman carpenter, the word deflection was used to describe any member moving from its original place. Eg. Formply deflection from concrete pressure, joist deflection, stud deflection.
It's a pretty common term that EVERYONE knows what it refers to. It's unreal that you had to bring that up and make other people feel dumb.


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## mnld (Jun 4, 2013)

I just hope the OP has enough patience to wait this one out before he does anything rash.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

Again, when the context of an industry discussion (not some stupid word game) is related to tile, curvature is the term used to describe a phenomenon that occurs in flooring panels between the span of the framing members. Deflection, on the other hand, is the term used to describe the movement of the aforementioned framing members. The reason these terms are used separately and to describe very different phenomena is for the sake of avoiding confusion. Some people thrive on confusion, though. It makes them feel like special little snowflakes worthy of adoration.

I'm boring. I prefer clarity.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

ccoffer said:


> Again, when the context of an industry discussion (not some stupid word game) is related to tile, curvature is the term used to describe a phenomenon that occurs in flooring panels between the span of the framing members. Deflection, on the other hand, is the term used to describe the movement of the aforementioned framing members. The reason these terms are used separately and to describe very different phenomena is for the sake of avoiding confusion. Some people thrive on confusion, though. It makes them feel like special little snowflakes worthy of adoration.
> 
> I'm boring. I prefer clarity.


No you are just wrong and won't admit it. There is joist curvature and sheathing curvature, we showed it to you in print. But you think your cute little comments are to show that you know it all.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> Again, when the context of an industry discussion (not some stupid word game) is related to tile, curvature is the term used to describe a phenomenon that occurs in flooring panels between the span of the framing members. Deflection, on the other hand, is the term used to describe the movement of the aforementioned framing members. The reason these terms are used separately and to describe very different phenomena is for the sake of avoiding confusion. Some people thrive on confusion, though. It makes them feel like special little snowflakes worthy of adoration.
> 
> I'm boring. I prefer clarity.


So then Schluter isn't using industry terms in the article I posted? rrk is right. You are wrong, know it, and just won't admit it.

The industry is building science, the category is tile installation. They are not separate in terms for the sake of category discussion.

This isn't about you, but about the industry. The fact is deflection and curvature describe an action that can be attributed to parts of the structure or the systems of a structure/dwelling.

EDIT: I'll also remind you of your smart arse comment that I should contact the TCNA concerning my "made up terms" (deflection between joists). I show you an article that the TCNA described deflection between joists, and you still can't admit that you were wrong.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

Something printed is not good enough for Mr. Clarity


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

ccoffer said:


> I wonder who the biggest a-hole was. Me or him. hehe


I think we know the answer now


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

I could give a flying fug about what is printed. Get on the phone with any tech department and see what they call curvature and what they call deflection.

The fact that you people would even argue this ridiculous point is a giant indicator of what you think you know and what I know you don't know.

I'm not even making a case for the nomenclature. I'm simply telling you what it is. And for this you break out in some rhetorical yeast infection?

Bravo.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ccoffer said:


> I could give a flying fug about what is printed. Get on the phone with any tech department and see what they call curvature and what they call deflection.
> 
> The fact that you people would even argue this ridiculous point is a giant indicator of what you think you know and what I know you don't know.
> 
> ...


You were the one that was a smart arse telling me I should contact the TCNA. Now that I have shown you they use the same language I did, you suddenly want to start using tech support as your fall back. To quote you, I couldn't care less what terms some $15 an hour tech support college kid uses, I prefer to look at the guys who are actually doing the research for my education.

That is your source of education is tech department and not industry published and taught literature. All I can say is you are desperate and cligning to whatever you can. Give it up.

BTW, you were the one that broke out into this rhetorical yeast infection. You are patient zero. I'm just finishing what you started and showing others why saying you know what you are talking about and actually knowing it are two different things.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I'll let Bob Sanelli know to contact tech departments for the current tile nomenclature. I still am chuckling about that one.


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

I hate to to steal the thread again, but I have another question.

Upon removing the tongue and groove underlayment boards, I found that most of the subfloor planks are split, or sometimes not even attached to the joists. Once I began removing the damaged planks, I realized that there was more damaged then good, so decided to just replace them with new 3/4 plywood.

Here's my only question, once I cut out the subfloor from the edges of the soleplates, where do I fasten the new subfloor along the exterior wall that runs parallel to my joists?

The nearest joist runs 6" from the parallel foundation wall, meanwhile the sole plate of the exterior framing is sitting 3" from the inside edge of the foundation wall... so the distance between the sole plate and the joist is approximately 9".

If this is too confusing to understand, I could take a picture.

Thanks.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Cross blocking from the joist to the band board of I'm following you.


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