# Trow & Holden



## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Well, I got my new chisels and hammer in the mail a couple weeks ago and got to use them on the job. 

All I can say is WOW! What a difference these new carbide tipped chisels and pointer make compared to my old ones. 

I picked up the 2" tracer, 2" chipper, 1" hand point, and 4lb slab splitter hammer. Its got a 2" carbide tip on one hand and regular striking end on the other.

Its really a night and day difference from my old steel chisels. If anyone has been on the fence about spending this much on chisels, my suggestion is do it.


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

How about some pics showing your stuff...:thumbsup:


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

What size stones were you working with? Im about to spend 3 months on a 6" veneer and am in the market for some new toys. Im looking over their hammers in particular.


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## artisanstone (Nov 27, 2007)

He's right, well worth it. I may have more carbide tools than T&H themselves. Most used are 2-2.5" tracers. I've found these to be good general chisels.

Another supplier I've used is www.spartantool.us/ Local to me, make good tools, and willing to make something custom if need be. They used to give us hats when we bought a bunch.

On really hard stone like granite, etc. I'd be inclined towards chippers, handsets, and pitching tools. On Sandstone, limestone, etc. I would go for the sharper tools, tracers, chisels...


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Rebit makes some good stuff as well. Next chisels I get will be from them. They have an oval shaft that is supposed to be better for us large handed folk.


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Heres some pics. Of course the first job we used black mortar


The stone we were cutting was a 5" thickness stone for a mailbox I did. The tracer work great, and after tracing around and then giving it a few good whacks, it cut the stone nice, clean, and pretty dang square. The hand point worked like a champ too. And the chipper really plows through some material when you hold it pretty steep.

But the hammer. Man thing is really a stone buster. The yellow handle is painted with a slip resistant paint, but wears off fairly quick. ANd for $8 they laser engraved all four pieces with "Kamps, Hands off!":thumbsup:


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

how bout some pix of the mailbox


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

*tools*

Some real nice stuff ! They are pricey,i will admit,they are well worth every penny. Great choices ! Enjoy ! you will have to sleep with them under your bed:laughing::laughing:


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Alright, heres said mailbox. Its supposed to look castlesque or like a rook from a chess board.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Cool mailbox! You almost ran outta stone haha.


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

JBM said:


> Cool mailbox! You almost ran outta stone haha.


yeah lol! I was hoping theyd say come back in spring and put another one on the other side of the driveway with all the extra!


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Thats all the snow you all have up there?


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

JBM said:


> Thats all the snow you all have up there?


Yeah! It was 40 degrees when I did this last week. Unreal. 


We had a pretty warm stretch and theres more grass than snow now. Frozen tundra my ass.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Yup our grass was here the other day as well.


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## stonebuilder (Jan 13, 2013)

I'm working with 6" veneer for past 14 years and using 4lb. hammers, 3lb for sandstone or limestone (soft ones)


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## Mooman (Aug 6, 2012)

I have a couple Vaughan stone hammers. As far as I am concerned, they kick ass. My 24oz is my baby. Use it for everything. Has a waffle head on one end(carbide) and chipping edge on the other(also carbide). Thing has unbelievable miles on it. I have every other type of carbide chisels out there as well. They really are the best thing you could own if you're into a lot of stone. Only thing everyone who doesn't already know-should know....is when you get your new carbides, make sure you don't go whaling on them right off the bat! You will destroy them. They will shatter and possible even shrapnel your skin! Carbide needs to be broken in like a good saddle, especially when working with harder/denser stone families like granite. Take it easy at first and slowly work your way up to full swings with these and they should last you a long time. Just my 2 cents.


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## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

6stringmason said:


> Alright, heres said mailbox. Its supposed to look castlesque or like a rook from a chess board.


I like....:thumbsup:


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## SixHoeBob (Jan 26, 2013)

Sharpening carbide tools with a regular grinder will cause the carbide to crack, due to the heat created. I think you need a green colored grindstone.

I stand corrected; do not use a wet grinder, see below.


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## Mooman (Aug 6, 2012)

SixHoeBob said:


> Sharpening carbide tools with a regular grinder will cause the carbide to crack, due to the heat created. I think you need a green colored grindstone on a wet grinder.


The Green Stone is correct, the wet is not required, in fact it should be avoided at all costs when doing this! A standard wheel simply won't sharpen. The carbide is harder in this case than the material the standard wheel is made of- which is "silicon carbide". Here is a page with great info and perfectly suited for this thread considering the name.....

HOW TO TAKE THE BEST CARE OF YOUR TROW & HOLDEN TOOLS
DO - Sharpen your chisel blade as soon as you notice it is working harder to achieve the same affect.
DO - Grind the striking end of your chisel when it begins to distort — before it begins to “mushroom”.
DO - Choose a chisel width that allows full blade contact with the stone. Selecting too wide a chisel for
rough or irregular stone can result in carbide breakage.
DO - Allow bushing chisels to move freely (or “dance”) on the stone. If held in one position they may jam,
which can cause the carbide to break.
DO - Use all bushing tools (especially 4-Points!) gently when they are new or newly sharpened to “break
them in.” Allow them to dull slightly before subjecting them to hard usage.
DO - Bevel the corners on your carbide chisel blade slightly during sharpening, especially if you are using
it on granite or other hard stone. The blade can be sharper if it is being used on marble or softer stone.
DO - Use a green wheel to sharpen carbide blades and a steel wheel to grind
or trim steel blades and shanks, The green wheel (silicon carbide) should be 80
grit or finer so as not to leave heavy grind marks on the carbide blade. Remember, when regrinding a
chisel; never cool the carbide blade by dipping it in water or oil.
DO - For safety reasons, use Trow & Holden hammers only as they were intended to be used. Some are
designed to strike stone, some to strike hand tools, some to strike another hammer, and some to be
struck by another hammer. For more information, ask for the Trow & Holden Guide to Hammers.
DO - Always use safety glasses when using any Trow & Holden tool.
DON’T - Dip carbide-tipped chisels in water or oil when grinding. DON’T - Throw or toss carbide-tipped
chisels into a toolbox or anywhere else. Place them down with care as they are brittle and can break,
especially if they hit steel or another carbide blade.
DON’T - Use the corner of any style chisel blade to strike stone. This is called “pointing” and can easily
break the carbide. Use a Hand Point instead — it’s designed to take the abuse.
DON’T - Use a Trow & Holden Striking Cap with a Carving Chisel. These chisels are intended for use with
air tools only.
DON’T - Use a tooth chisel on granite or other hard stone. Rather, use a 4-PT or 9-PT solid-tooth bush
chisel, rippers, flats or any of Trow and Holden Co.’s other bushing tools.
DON’T - Try to drill a deep hole with a Trow & Holden Carver’s Drill. Keep hole depth to 1” or less,
otherwise the drill may break.
DON’T - Strike the shank end of a pneumatic chisel unless you protect it with a Trow & Holden Striking
Cap, otherwise It will mushroom and be unfit for use with your air tool.


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

Mooman said:


> The Green Stone is correct, the wet is not required, in fact it should be avoided at all costs when doing this! A standard wheel simply won't sharpen. The carbide is harder in this case than the material the standard wheel is made of- which is "silicon carbide"....


Very good info. I started using electroplated diamond pads to sharpen and touch up my chisels a few years ago, because I couldn't find the wheels easily. T&H sells diamond pads separately or with a sharpening system, but you can get them at stone fabrication supply stores online too. Get 120 grit to bring back a really dull edge or use 200 to touch it up. I use mine on a variable speed polisher I have, but you could use a grinder as long as you get a backer pad for it.

Diamond pads

Backer


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