# I tiled today. I have specific questions for you.



## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

Well they thanks a bunch guys.

Sounds like I'm not too terribly far off. Sorry for the terminology errors. I'm from Jersey where we call anything that's gloppy mud and call joint compound spackle. 

Here's some insight as to what I actually did:

1. I didn't "wet" the floor, but I was taught to run a lightly dampened sponge over it. I did that.

2. I put way too much butter on. hah I was using the notch side of the trowel but kind of leaning it so I was getting really thin lines. I guess this is excessive. My bad. That probably explains all the excess in the joints.

3. I was using a combo of finger/back side of notch trowel to clean the edges. The finger worked the best, but I hate having stuff on my fingers, so I abandoned that in favor of the trowel.

4. Scraping the shmutz out with a spacer is a great idea. No idea why I thought a screwdriver would be better. I mean, it worked great, but you look like kind of a jerk putting a screwdriver on a tile job.

5. You guys that do this without a helper are crazy/amazing. I can't imagine being that fast. 

I actually kind of had fun today. Usually tiling is something I suffer through when I'm forced to and dread doing. This actually went ok. I didn't make any(well ok, many) mistakes, and it came out looking good.
Hopefully the thinset will forgive my lightly dampening the back of the porcelain and harden real nice like. :whistling

Thanks again for all the fast replies.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Easy Gibson said:


> ... I actually kind of had fun today.
> Thanks again for all the fast replies...



Well if this is your idea of fun, pretty much explains why we don't have parties at your house...:whistling:laughing:


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

griz said:


> Well if this is your idea of fun, pretty much explains why we don't have parties at your house...:whistling:laughing:


If I may.....

"I actually experienced a great sense of satisfaction and accomplishment today."

I dunno...maybe not....maybe it was fun.....:laughing:


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

I had good company. A friend of mine who is an extremely hard worker recently got laid off from his ****ty office job. I was beyond excited because I knew he'd need work. He was fantastic. Had everything I needed at the ready. Jokes, coffee, even some tile.

Also I was working at a friend's place, renovating his rental apartment kitchen so that another friend of mine could have a place to live come January 1. Comfortable environment, awesome dog, good music.

I'd say I actually enjoyed today, despite it being so cold out I had to keep pouring hot water into the wet saw to keep it from freezing. Sense of satisfaction too I guess. We'll see how I feel after I see it grouted. heh


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Robie said:


> Back Butter Buddy...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Primo-Tools-Tile-Butter-Buddy/dp/B00CC1VFTK
> 
> ...


Never had enough room on my tile jobs to use a back butter buddy.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Easy Gibson said:


> Well they thanks a bunch guys.
> 
> Sounds like I'm not too terribly far off. Sorry for the terminology errors. I'm from Jersey where we call anything that's gloppy mud and call joint compound spackle.
> 
> ...


As you become more comfortable tiling it becomes more enjoyable. It's the whole not knowing how to see and plan 10 steps ahead that make it stuck. Once you can plan ahead and see the job it's fun as hell.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

I've done maybe 50-60 tile jobs (if you count a kitchen backsplash and floor separate) and I'd have to say of all the trades I've self-preformed, it's been the slowest for me to feel proficient. I feel just a little better each time.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Easy Gibson said:


> I actually kind of had fun today.


:thumbup:

and helped some people around you.

That's all that really counts in the end


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

You could use a narrow 3/8" tuckpointer to help clean the joint, other than that, brush, spacer ,sponge, that's about it.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

You can clean the joints with cardboard scraps. Before I get to it, I cut up a bunch of 1" wide pieces from the tile packing...just in case. They come in handy.


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

Easy Gibson said:


> I'd say I actually enjoyed today, despite it being so cold out I had to keep pouring hot water into the wet saw to keep it from freezing.


Dry cut with a grinder and good diamond blade. No freezing and a lot easier clean up.


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## Okiecontractor (Oct 15, 2012)

I never cared too much for a grinder and diamond blade. Seems to chip the tile. I guess it would work for commercial maybe.

And besides... I didnt pay good money for a tile saw to use a $100 grinder.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Easy Gibson said:


> Well they thanks a bunch guys.
> 
> Sounds like I'm not too terribly far off. Sorry for the terminology errors. I'm from Jersey where we call anything that's gloppy mud and call joint compound spackle.
> 
> ...


Are you mixing well measured batches?

Consistency of your thinny-thin can vastly affect squeeze out (among other things).

Sounds like you were running a little thin.

Laid down notch lines is not "way too much back butter". (IMO)


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

goneelkn said:


> Dry cut with a grinder and good diamond blade. No freezing and a lot easier clean up.


Oy vey....

with the dust, and the chippy.....and the dust.

No tanks.

Floors??? Snapper. (I don't even own one yet, but the kingpins all use em)


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Okiecontractor said:


> I never cared too much for a grinder and diamond blade. Seems to chip the tile. I guess it would work for commercial maybe.
> 
> And besides... I didnt pay good money for a tile saw to use a $100 grinder.


I user a grinder all of the time on residential. If you are chipping that bad you need a better blade and something under it to help cushion the tile. 

Most cuts are also hidden, so it doesn't matter. We also use a few files and a stone to clean up the edge.


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## Okiecontractor (Oct 15, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Most cuts are also hidden, so it doesn't matter. We also use a few files and a stone to clean up the edge.


True I guess but its a pet peeve of mine.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Oy vey....
> 
> with the dust, and the chippy.....and the dust.
> 
> ...


Vacant townhome. I was pressed for time so I subbed a portion: three tile bathroom floors to a guy a I know. He used his grinder (dry) in the house - I was &&^%^&% livid. Waste of time cleaning that up.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MarkJames said:


> Vacant townhome. I was pressed for time so I subbed a portion: three tile bathroom floors to a guy a I know. He used his grinder (dry) in the house - I was &&^%^&% livid. Waste of time cleaning that up.


Never find indoors. You buddy is an idiot.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Never find indoors. You buddy is an idiot.


"was"

4-story and he got lazy. I've moved on. (thought of it still irks me.)


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

I always do it outdoors. Lay down a tarp and cleanup is just picking up the tarp, not cleaning a wet saw. A good blade makes all the difference. Also, no worries about wet saw freezing. Don't know how cold it gets down there, but a wet saw when it's 10 degrees is not fun.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> Why not?


1) It won't save me enough time to be worth changing methods. I'm installing a back splash in a day and a half. If I switched, it wouldn't reduce time on site that would make any difference. I would still need to come back and burn a half day for cleanup, touch up and caulk. 

2) More control with a two step process. I don't have to be rushed. Having to consider final finishing when I'm setting is to much. I'm too much of a perfectionist.

3) It requires cementious grout. cementious grout is an inferior product. I only use urethane or epoxy grouts. Although I have recently added quartz grouts to my options.


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

Good thread. Everybody kept it civil, and lots of good information here. I've tiled through maybe 25-30 jobs now and like someone else said, I get about 2% better at it every time. 

Threads like these are awesome for picking up new tips, affirming some things I've been doing anyway, and correcting some things I'm really glad you fellas haven't seen me do in person!


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

onmywayup said:


> Good thread. Everybody kept it civil, and lots of good information here. I've tiled through maybe 25-30 jobs now and like someone else said, I get about 2% better at it every time.
> 
> Threads like these are awesome for picking up new tips, affirming some things I've been doing anyway, and correcting some things I'm really glad you fellas haven't seen me do in person!


That's funny, there are projects and progress picks that I refuse to post.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> Popular enough especially for paper faced sheet mosaics.
> 
> Google Laticrete One Step.
> 
> It holds really well, but when you set your tiles you can't shift them around as easily.


I better learn to basics before I even consider adding fancy.lol But, I like to be informed either easy. So, thank you for the info.

I've been learning a lot about masonry and tile setting lately. With both trades there seems to be one common denominator: there is no "one" way to do it right. Everyone seems to have their own way of doing the job, their products, tools, etc.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jb4211 said:


> I better learn to basics before I even consider adding fancy.lol But, I like to be informed either easy. So, thank you for the info.
> 
> I've been learning a lot about masonry and tile setting lately. With both trades there seems to be one common denominator: there is no "one" way to do it right. Everyone seems to have their own way of doing the job, their products, tools, etc.


And you can even find a low volt guy who likes to dabble in tile.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

I looked into a good quality snap cutter. I was surprised that they're almost as costly as a new saw.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jb4211 said:


> I looked into a good quality snap cutter. I was surprised that they're almost as costly as a new saw.


Yeah, but they are worth their weight in gold.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

I just tiled a second floor bathroom with a borrowed Ridgid wet saw. That thing was so big and heavy I wish I had used a snap cutter. 

I could have: tiles were 2x2, 6x6 & 12x12s. All straight cuts and those that weren't, I could've used my grinder. I used my grinder around the closet flange. Worked great.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Rob, which one do you own (snap cutter)?


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Yeah, but they are worth their weight in gold.


Your inbox is full... Had one more question about those blades.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

jb4211 said:


> Rob, which one do you own (snap cutter)?


He has a Rubi, I rock a sigma. Both top drawer cutters.


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

Grouted today. I have to say that I'm pretty pleased. Everything is pretty straight and pretty flat. Flat is the hardest part for me. I make a very straight line but I really struggle with the level portion of the job. I'm not great at lifting the edge and sneaking more thinset under one corner like I've seen the pros do. No toe breakers, but there's a couple transitions that I would consider less than perfect. Still within the realm of acceptability though. Got paid anyway. Count it.

I debated buying a snapper for this job. I had one with the old company(like most things). I couldn't justify the expense since I already have the saw. Maybe if I take another.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Your inbox is full... Had one more question about those blades.


Cleaned it out a bit.


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## Doctor Handyman (Mar 13, 2012)

*I Tiled Today. I Have Specific Questions For You.*



Easy Gibson said:


> I'm not great at lifting the edge and sneaking more thinset under one corner like I've seen the pros do. No toe breakers, but there's a couple transitions that I would consider less than perfect. Still within the realm of acceptability though. Got paid anyway. Count it.



Not sure if this is considered professional or not... I use a paint can lid opener to lift a sunken tile. It has just enough hook on the end and the loop to pull up on. Then shove a wedge or spacer under the tile. Of course, there should be sufficient thin set to start with, otherwise pull it up entirely and reset.

The Tavy tile puck is really helpful for not just leveling but confirming no lippage. Just slide it back and forth over the tile edges. A roll of tape laying flat works well also. With experience just feeling over tile edges with your fingers is better than any visual acceptance.

If your concerned about speed, setting tile like this will slow you down. In a perfect world, a flat floor that has been properly prepped will yield the greatest speed.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jb4211 said:


> Rob, which one do you own (snap cutter)?


Rubi TR-S 700.


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2014)

jb4211 said:


> I looked into a good quality snap cutter. I was surprised that they're almost as costly as a new saw.


Worth every penny though!


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2014)

Easy Gibson said:


> Grouted today. I have to say that I'm pretty pleased. Everything is pretty straight and pretty flat. *Flat is the hardest part for me.* I make a very straight line but I really struggle with the level portion of the job. I'm not great at lifting the edge and sneaking more thinset under one corner like I've seen the pros do. No toe breakers, but there's a couple transitions that I would consider less than perfect. Still within the realm of acceptability though. Got paid anyway. Count it.
> 
> I debated buying a snapper for this job. I had one with the old company(like most things). I couldn't justify the expense since I already have the saw. Maybe if I take another.


Are you leveling out your floors first? Make sure you maintain a consistent angle on you trowel.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> Copy Craig's idea and put a flexible cutting mat from a hobby shop on your snapper first.
> 
> Sadly it won't work with a Rubi because the breaker foot is wider than the sigma.
> 
> But I actually wasn't referring to cutting sheet mosaics, I was talking about setting and grouting in one-step.


The breaker foot isn't too wide to cut mosaics. Why would you think that? Have you ever used a Rubi TS-700?


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Doctor Handyman said:


> Not sure if this is considered professional or not... I use a paint can lid opener to lift a sunken tile. It has just enough hook on the end and the loop to pull up on. Then shove a wedge or spacer under the tile. Of course, there should be sufficient thin set to start with, otherwise pull it up entirely and reset.
> 
> The Tavy tile puck is really helpful for not just leveling but confirming no lippage. Just slide it back and forth over the tile edges. A roll of tape laying flat works well also. With experience just feeling over tile edges with your fingers is better than any visual acceptance.
> 
> If your concerned about speed, setting tile like this will slow you down. In a perfect world, a flat floor that has been properly prepped will yield the greatest speed.


RLS and you don't have to worry about any of that.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Are you leveling out your floors first? Make sure you maintain a consistent angle on you trowel.


Get the floors as flat as you can and then use a leveling system.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

jb4211 said:


> What are the dollies for?


If you are setting floors. use one for a couple boxes of tile and the second for a rough tote of mortar that way you can roll them along with you as you move, keeping them right at hand yet out of the way can't ask for more than that. The third one will be for the next couple boxes. These are the unsung hero's of all my tools.

Another thing if you are setting large format get a Festool Gecko they are the most ergonomic suction cups you can imagine More importantly they will make your sets faster and cleaner while saving your elbow from tendinitis.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

jb4211 said:


> I presently have a DW 4-1/2" grinder with a few diamond blades.
> I have a bunch of floats and trowels.
> I have a set of nippers.
> I was undecided between the Ridgid Beast and the DW wet saws, but I was leaving towards the DW.
> ...


Hasquvana TS-60, best water management right now. I have used the DeWalt, the TS-60 is better.

Tom


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

charimon said:


> An Huskvarna TS60 (this saw is controversial, people either love or hate it, I personally have mine dialed in and love it.) It has the BEST water containment you can get.
> 
> If i were to recommend a wetsaw I would suggest the DW 24000. It is like the Glock of wetsaws,


I have no experience with either of those saws, but have heard that the DW has the best water containment you can get. Have you used the DW? I have been eyeballing it but haven't pulled the trigger. Water containment is my #1 priority. Obviously I am going to purchase a saw that is true and has power, but water containment is really important in cold environments.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

jb4211 said:


> What are the dollies for?


You don't actually carry the tile around do you? I have a dolly for tile and a dolly for the snapper. When I'm setting I have a dolly for the thinset bucket and a dolly for the tile.

I had a tile from HD last year that just wouldn't snap without chipping like crazy, it also wouldn't cut without chipping. It was crap. It was also the last time I expect to install box store tile without charging a LOT more for labor.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

EthanB said:


> You don't actually carry the tile around do you? .


Ummmmmm....I have been, from truck to second floor. Along with the Ridgid saw which squirted water out the front (on me) and out the back and a little out each side. Sucked.

But, I'm not sure if it was the saw or the owner's poor handling of the saw. I know the laser was shot. I borrowed the saw, not mine.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I was thinking about getting a few of these for my thin set and water buckets.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...IQbZXwQfRJb5AldZOdH6-fQYvSU9QfT8XYhoCdN_w_wcB

I do need to get a few dollies for tile. After Chars videos and posts on what he uses I keep meaning to pick some up, but only remember when I start the next tile job and by then it's too late.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-mini-movers-dolly-61899.html


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I have no experience with either of those saws, but have heard that the DW has the best water containment you can get. Have you used the DW? I have been eyeballing it but haven't pulled the trigger. Water containment is my #1 priority. Obviously I am going to purchase a saw that is true and has power, but water containment is really important in cold environments.



I have used the DeWalt prior to purchasing the TS-60. Water management is why I went with the TS-60. Instead of water being sprayed on the blade the water feeds through the kerf slot in table. On bevel cuts you can split the flow between the blade and kerf. 

I have set the saw up in the hallway of a finished home with a mortar pan under it with no issues. 

A friend borrowed the saw to cut flag stone in a finished area, was very impressed with it. He is in West Chicago, if you want to try the saw let me know, I'll make arrangements for you to do so.

The stand is much better on the TS-60 also.

Tom


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

I also use the Ramondi grout wash bucket, the $100.00 one. 

Tom


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

tjbnwi said:


> I have used the DeWalt prior to purchasing the TS-60. Water management is why I went with the TS-60. Instead of water being sprayed on the blade the water feeds through the kerf slot in table. On bevel cuts you can split the flow between the blade and kerf.
> 
> I have set the saw up in the hallway of a finished home with a mortar pan under it with no issues.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the offer Tom, I will take you up on that. I have a job coming up at the beginning of the year that would be perfect to try it out on.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Thanks for the offer Tom, I will take you up on that. I have a job coming up at the beginning of the year that would be perfect to try it out on.


Send me a PM. I have a tile job starting mid-January, I'll need it back by then.

Tom


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I have no experience with either of those saws, but have heard that the DW has the best water containment you can get. Have you used the DW? I have been eyeballing it but haven't pulled the trigger. Water containment is my #1 priority. Obviously I am going to purchase a saw that is true and has power, but water containment is really important in cold environments.


I have owned both Used the DW for several years of daily use.
The DW has Very Good water containment, The Huskvarna when it is using the trough has no compare. On both saws you will have more water issues from tile dripping once you take it off the saw.

I think the Huskvarna when it is tuned and cared for outperforms the DW I think the DW runs great with little or none of the attention you need to devote to the Huskvarna.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

tjbnwi said:


> I also use the Ramondi grout wash bucket, the $100.00 one.
> 
> Tom


I have the same one....the PullRapid . Bought extra sponges too.

Never use it. 
Never have even once.
Bought it right as I was walking away from cementitious forever.

Can't figure out how it is useful for urethane installations.

Trade......free to a good home???????


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Don't get the thinny on dolly thing.

It bothers me sometimes when my bucket is not full enough and it slides or tips when I go to trowel out some mud.

If it were on wheels I could see it driving me nuts.

CHarimon....you said "totes".
Do you use something other than a 5gal for your thinset?


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

The TS-60 received two reviews on Amazon: one great, one terrible. Not much help.lol


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

jb4211 said:


> The TS-60 received two reviews on Amazon: one great, one terrible. Not much help.lol


Love my DW.

Never used the TS-60.

Not much help either.


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I have the same one....the PullRapid . Bought extra sponges too.
> 
> Never use it.
> Never have even once.
> ...


Try the epoxy sponges for urethane.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Love my DW.
> 
> Never used the TS-60.
> 
> Not much help either.


The tile guy I use loves his DW. I think this is his second or third. That's all he does is tile. Very happy with the saw, so that says a lot. He uses his saw every day.

The DW's price is justifiable for a quality saw for me and my use. Some of those $1,500+ saws are way out of my league.

But it seems that a lot of people live the DW.

I love those dollies! Sure beats muscling everything around. Great idea.

This whole thread has really been one of the best threads for me.

Thank you everyone.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Don't get the thinny on dolly thing.
> 
> It bothers me sometimes when my bucket is not full enough and it slides or tips when I go to trowel out some mud.
> 
> ...


As in Rubbermaid Roughneck Tote.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

goneelkn said:


> Try the epoxy sponges for urethane.


What he said.

http://www.tools4flooring.com/raimondi-5-x-11-epoxy-cellulose-sponge.html#.VIrtDotR7cE

Tom


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## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

I haven't read all the replies, but years ago i made 4 or 5 little dollies out of 3/4" ply with small swivel wheels, i use one for thin set bucket, one for stack of tile. I've given a few away to other tile guys. Total investment about 5 bucks each


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Has anyone used dust collection with an angle grinder with any success? 

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE461...V66A/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1418571448&sr=8-6


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

Doctor Handyman said:


> Not sure if this is considered professional or not... I use a paint can lid opener to lift a sunken tile. It has just enough hook on the end and the loop to pull up on. Then shove a wedge or spacer under the tile. Of course, there should be sufficient thin set to start with, otherwise pull it up entirely and .



I have a large suction cup that you use to carry glass panes. It works great for pulling up glued tiles.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

Golden view said:


> Has anyone used dust collection with an angle grinder with any success?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE461...V66A/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1418571448&sr=8-6


They work ok for dust but are worthless for cutting with precision. 
I can not speak for the DW that you have a link to but i own a hilti DCG 500 with their version of the tuck pointing cover. 

Alpha made a great concept saw that had its own vacuum impeller on the saw too bad the build was a TOTAL P.O.S.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

jb4211 said:


> I presently have a DW 4-1/2" grinder with a few diamond blades.
> I have a bunch of floats and trowels.
> I have a set of nippers.
> I was undecided between the Ridgid Beast and the DW wet saws, but I was leaning towards the DW.
> ...


I had the predecessor to the Rigid beast and I now have the DW. The DW is far better


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

TaylorMadeCon said:


> I have a large suction cup that you use to carry glass panes. It works great for pulling up glued tiles.


I've been spotted using a tiny Allen wrench. Push it down into the grout line, spin it ninety degrees, and lift away. Necessity is the mother of all invention.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Hey if it works

Who spotted you? :laughing:


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

This saw was in the Richelieu flyer the other week, made by a company called Exakt. Never heard of the company or this type of saw, but it looks interesting. 










Amazon Link:
http://www.amazon.com/New-Exakt-Saw-DC280-Plung/dp/B007HH7VE2

Has anyone used it before? The theory of it seems great, but I'm sceptical of off brands. The little graduations on the side of the blade guard show you the start and stop of the blade location at the different depths to line up plunge cuts. Dust collection looks pretty thorough...


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I saw their booth at a convention, a lot of people had interest.
As Craig says visibility is priority, not marks to use as guide, I even asked that question cause I guess I got to the demonstration a little late, I believe they have several tools.
Mickey Mouse if you ask me. I believe I'm the most skeptical of all people, I may knock you upside the head if you try to pass some bs tool stating its superiority. 
Tools in my opinion are not worth a crap if you can't bog it down and have it last for years.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MIKE ANTONETTI said:


> I saw their booth at a convention, a lot of people had interest.
> As Craig says visibility is priority, not marks to use as guide, I even asked that question cause I guess I got to the demonstration a little late, I believe they have several tools.
> Mickey Mouse if you ask me. I believe I'm the most skeptical of all people, I may knock you upside the head if you try to pass some bs tool stating its superiority.
> Tools in my opinion are not worth a crap if you can't bog it down and have it last for years.


Clear shroude and a couple of LEDs?


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

MIKE ANTONETTI said:


> Mickey Mouse if you ask me.


That was my initial impression when I saw pictures of it....maybe it's the purple, I don't know, but it does have a cheap look to it. The engineering just seemed pretty interesting. Small plunge cut circular saw with dust collection and depth stops. 

I am in not pushing the tool, just curious if anyone had hands on experience. 
Reading Charimon's tiling thread and he had modified a small dewalt circular saw to accomplish the same thing: http://www.contractortalk.com/f73/how-i-work-140525/index2/#post1872161


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

It looked impressive at the show, the guys had accents and I'm sure I have some brochures on it that I never looked at. Kind of a niche tool, not used often but has a specific purpose on an irregular basis.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

I have one of these that I use for plank replacements and trimming stuff in that's already installed (like adding a molding in after the fact). It has a dust collection port on it that works surprisingly well. Blades are easy to find at Lowes or on Amazon. I've driven it pretty hard a few times and it's held up. I'd buy another one if it broke. You can get diamond blades for it as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK3440K-VersaCut-Circular-Saw/dp/B0052EK78O


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