# Set-Up for Spraying Cabinet Doors



## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Would have been hard to shoot the first 2 on the flat.

(Table created by Chuck Kiser of Knollwood Construction, I'm only doing the finish)

Tom


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

tjbnwi said:


> Would have been hard to shoot the first 2 on the flat.
> 
> (Table created by Chuck Kiser of Knollwood Construction, I'm only doing the finish)
> 
> Tom


Well now, that's not a door now, is it?... :whistling

Love the cans... lol... been there, done that... :laughing:


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

That's one high tech booth ya got there. Same type I would have if I need one.


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

Leo G said:


> On a quality job I spray 3 coats on the front and 2 on the rear. Start on the front and then flip after it dries and continue until you have the 5 coats on. The face should always be the last coat. That way no chance of damage.
> 
> On a price job 2 coats each side, use nail boards. Spray the back and then put the nail board on the door and flip it, spray the front. Put in rack to dry, repeat again.


Leo, what do you mean by nail board? Sorry for the rookie question.:sad:


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Nail boards have 3 or 4 nails or screws poking through a board (I have used 1/2" ply scraps). You start with the good side down on the points (very gently of course) and spray the back side first, no edges. Then flip the door over carefully laying the freshly sprayed door face on the points and quickly finish the sides and good face. 

By the time it all dries, it is pretty difficult to see the pin holes. You can touch those up pretty easy though. 

I used to do the nail board, but don't anymore. I spray one side at a time.


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

That's what I thought. I guess I was confused when he said he put the nail board on the door and then flipped the door. I would of thought that you flipped the door and set it on the nail board. Thinking about it now though I can see how it would be easier to hold the door(with out touching the wet finish) and with less risk of dropping it on the nails. That Leo is pretty sharp:thumbsup:


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

I was PM'd a question, can't link photos there.

The benches are MFT-3's. 

The paper roller is 2" PVC, I use a closet flange as the wheel, had to reduce to fit the 2" PVC.

Axle for new paper roll is 1/2" EMT. 

Tom


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks Tom. Nice setup. How do you ventilate the filtered intake behind the table?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Rigid air mover. 

This is the only picture I currently have of it.

I'm shooting one door so I didn't have the bench setup and the air mover connected to it. 

Tom


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Travis, do you have a picture of the air mover connected to the bench?

Tom


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

tjbnwi said:


> Travis, do you have a picture of the air mover connected to the bench?
> 
> Tom



These are a couple of your setup.




















Dale, they are connected with starting collar takeoffs for hvac available at your hardware store.


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Is that 4" or 6" tubing? How did you connect to the intake of the air mover?


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

dale rex said:


> Is that 4" or 6" tubing? How did you connect to the intake of the air mover?




6”

In the first picture you can see a small piece of foam with a takeoff in it. That piece fits to the side of the air mover. I tape off the intake on the other side so all the air will pull through the duct work.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

If I remember I'll get a pic next week of the connection. Travis and I use the same process for connection.

Tom


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks Tom. I love the setup. Going to build myself something similar, maybe not as large, when I get some spare time. Cant always find the extra time for improvements like this, business has been good this winter so far. If you get the chance I would like to see the hookup to the air mover. Also been looking at cylinder type portable air movers, might be an easier connection for intake and they come with an exhaust tube.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

The suction holds the adapter on when you turn the air mover on. Overall this is an inexpensive setup that performs better than having no air filtration and exhaust.


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks for all the pics. Definitely worth the effort for me to build a setup like yours. Do you use airless or HVLP? It looks like it should grab most of the overspray from either type.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

dale rex said:


> Thanks for all the pics. Definitely worth the effort for me to build a setup like yours. Do you use airless or HVLP? It looks like it should grab most of the overspray from either type.


I use an HVLP in the shop with this setup. I'm not sure that I would say it gets most of the overspray, but it certainly cuts down on it. There isn't enough CFM when you're spraying larger pieces such as cabinets.

If you're spraying doors and drawer fronts, pieces, etc on the bench, it does pretty well. If we get a job I just submitted a bid on, I'll be getting a more appropriately sized fan for the job because I'll be spraying a lot of pieces.


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

What type of fan are you thinking about upgrading to get more CFM?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks for getting the pictures up Travis. 

Tom


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

dale rex said:


> What type of fan are you thinking about upgrading to get more CFM?


Tube axial inline fan I think. I need to finish getting educated about the setup before I get it setup. It's been on the to do list for a while now and it will get bumped near the top if I get this job. So will lots of other things... :laughing:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I have a tubeaxial fan. Belt operated with a 3HP motor. 36" diameter fan. It sucks. :whistling


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

Leo G said:


> I have a tubeaxial fan. Belt operated with a 3HP motor. 36" diameter fan. It sucks. :whistling


That had to cost a couple bucks!


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I got it 10 years ago, brand new for $1500.

Much more now.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Leo G said:


> I have a tubeaxial fan. Belt operated with a 3HP motor. 36" diameter fan. It sucks. :whistling


That will be my setup at the next place. For now I'm in my basement/garage and I have a roll up door and a pedestrian door as the only penetrations through the brick and block walls. I'll be moving in a couple years and building a shop, at least that's the plan.

If I had a window I'd be able to have a bigger fan and it'd be a permanent setup. But as it is I'm hoping to figure out a size fan that's a decent CFM and will perform better than the air mover but ultimately it's gonna have to a flex duct connection off the rigid pipe that will connect to a boot in the foam that fits in the pedestrian door.


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