# Skimming Ceilings



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Typical drywall on trusses leaves the ceiling not dead flat.

Often I have to skim out the ceiling to bring it flat. Just wondering what others are using to do this.

Keep in mind this is usually an existing ceiling.


----------



## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

You mean mud for a skim coat? If so R-200 magnum.


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks, that looks better than regular mud. Unfortunately not available in Canada.

I'll go to a canadian manufacturers' site.

Anyone using some sort of plaster mix? I'm looking for one coat application if possible.


----------



## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

Aren't mixes usually more difficult to sand? Very interested in a good answer to this thread! 

Are you just sick of the regular stuff?


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Correct. I wouldn't want to sand any plaster mix.

What I use for small patching is finish mud mixed with quick set plaster.

But you can't mix enough of this for a complete ceiling skimming, it would set up too fast.

Just looking for an alternative to finish mud.


----------



## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I use USG 90. We mix it in a bucket one bag at a time. Two spreaders, one pan/clean guy, 45 minutes to get it done.


----------



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

I had this job awhile back and the ceiling joists were uneven. When I run across this I usually run furring strips across perpendicular and fill with ridged insulation for added R-value. It talkes out a ton of imperfections and low spots. :thumbsup:


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> I use USG 90. We mix it in a bucket one bag at a time. Two spreaders, one pan/clean guy, 45 minutes to get it done.


Is that a sandable 90? You have to sand that after application, yes?

I'm looking for more of a plaster that will need no sanding. But thanks.


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

I've sprayed this product for a level 5 before. http://europe.usg.com/index.php?id=1083
Do you just skim the whole ceiling or do you add mud at the problem areas while skimming. 
If so. How do you determine where to add the extra mud?


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

If the area to fill are small, meaning no more than 1/8" I just use finish mud. 

If the areas are deeper than that, which is the norm, I use a sandable 90, then skim with finish mud.

I have a 4' and 6' plasterers trowel which shows me the low spots. It's a lot of work, but sometimes the client wants it perfect. No humps where the tape joints are.

Like I've said, I know a plasterer would skim the whole thing with plaster. I'm looking for a product that I can use instead of mixing the proper plaster mix.

Hey, maybe there's no such thing.


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Sir Mixalot said:


> I've sprayed this product for a level 5 before. http://europe.usg.com/index.php?id=1083
> Do you just skim the whole ceiling or do you add mud at the problem areas while skimming.
> If so. How do you determine where to add the extra mud?


So you spray that on and then trowel it out to get it flat? The website just shows the guy spraying.

Oh, and I checked the CGC site in Canada, no luck.


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

katoman said:


> So you spray that on and then trowel it out to get it flat? The website just shows the guy spraying.
> 
> Oh, and I checked the CGC site in Canada, no luck.


You can fill trouble areas w/ 9o, 45 or AP, then spray on the primer surfacer which gives you the level 5 finish (no troweling).


----------



## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Paulie said:


> I had this job awhile back and the ceiling joists were uneven. When I run across this I usually run furring strips across perpendicular and fill with ridged insulation for added R-value. It talkes out a ton of imperfections and low spots. :thumbsup:


I have done this before as well, and even ran a 4' lvl to catch to low or high ones and shimmed the furs as needed.


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Paulie said:


> I had this job awhile back and the ceiling joists were uneven. When I run across this I usually run furring strips across perpendicular and fill with ridged insulation for added R-value. It talkes out a ton of imperfections and low spots. :thumbsup:





JHC said:


> I have done this before as well, and even ran a 4' lvl to catch to low or high ones and shimmed the furs as needed.


 Yes, but I like to use metal hat channel instead.
Furring strips aren't very straight and the metal is perfect everytime.:thumbsup:


----------



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Metal hat? Whats you talkin 'bout Willis? Yer talkin' to a old schooler, the only metal hat I know about is this one.....








Whoops, didn't want to go. LOL


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I will forgive you Paulie this time because that room turned out nice.:laughing:


............


----------



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

What I do wrong??? :blink:


----------



## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Try plaster of paris maybe.


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Here's what I've learned so far. I went to a British plasterers' site.

Finish plaster has to go on a base coat or plaster board. It will not properly bond to drywall.

Another consideration is that plaster is harder. This can lead to problems associated with vibration. That is the drywall on a ceiling may 'bounce' and the plaster can let go.

So far I cannot find anything to replace doing it with drywall compounds and sanding.

I've posted about my plaster/finish mud combo. I'm going to mix finish mud 75% with slow set plaster 25% and give it a try. I'll let you know how it works out.


----------



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

So I'm curious now. You already have the drywall up obviously but have some dipsy doodles in the ceiling and you or the customer is not satisfied right? Your looking for a fix that requires no sanding. Just put up and paint right?


----------



## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

Haha sorry. Guess I'll just search it..


----------



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

dibs16 said:


> Haha sorry. Guess I'll just search it..


Ah don't worry about it dude, just had a few world wars fought over that very same question. :laughing:


----------



## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

Ohh boy can only imagine!


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

katoman said:


> Seems like a bit of work. Have you used their system? How fast do you find it?
> 
> Probably faster than skimming the whole ceiling.


No I have not used the wheel creaser. 
What I do is take a wet sponge and go over the butt with it.
Then I take my 6" with the metal end on the handle and crease the butt that way.
I have used osb for backer boards on butts and it works.
It also cuts down on waste.:thumbsup:


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I kept reading that as the butt tapper.:whistling:laughing:


----------



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I kept reading that as the butt tapper.:whistling:laughing:


Sicko.


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I kept reading that as the butt tapper.:whistling:laughing:


No here's the butt tapper.:laughing:


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I can't believe they actually make that. What a world. :shutup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 7, 2010)

all you can do is mix up some sheet rock,apply to proper level,maybe just a touch thicker.then treat it like plaster.as it sets,dip a thick paint brush or sponge in water,and throw it at it to damping it and keep trowling .little pin holes will keep appearing though,b/c your ceiling is painted and there's only one way it can escape now to dry/set.I did this at a boston pizza in Toronto on a 30x10 long patch off a scissor lift,it worked and passed.SO treat sheet rock like plaster, trowel then wet,trowel then wet till she's set:thumbsup:


----------



## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Kato, in ''some'' cases if you have a real bad joint/lump it may be best to just cut out a 2'x5' and use 1/4'' to clear bad truss. Correct all bad areas with quickset and then continue skimming ceiling.

Also I've seen plasterers useing Sheetrock brand 45 min. skimming and troweling smooth just like plaster. If I did'nt see the empty bags I would have thought it was plaster.

And ''some'' ceilings just can't be ''fixed'' by skimming alone. 
i'm sure some of you know what I'm talking about.

Good luck Kato. arty:


----------

