# Shower Part II



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

Hey Guys,

I took the shower out today. I posted pics below. 

I have a couple of questions.

1. During demolition a peice of the drain broke. It was the piece that existed just above the shower hole. Is this going to be a problem?

2. Can I extend the shower pipe and outlet upwards a bit? It has always been too low. What is the standard height?


----------



## Gordo (Feb 21, 2006)

Go ahead and frame your curb. Then call your plumber to install a pan.

Do not try this your self. Plumber will tie the drain and pan in, then you will be ready to tile.

Are you a HO?


----------



## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

While you have it all torn apart I would change out that diverter and adjust your shower spoyt accordingly.


----------



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

Gordo said:


> Go ahead and frame your curb. Then call your plumber to install a pan.
> 
> Do not try this your self. Plumber will tie the drain and pan in, then you will be ready to tile.
> 
> Are you a HO?


Yes. I do Masonry work. This is my first attempt at a shower pan install. 

I picked up this book, http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Bathrooms-Projects-Remodeling/dp/1589230620 which provides step by step instructions for the pan install. It appears pretty straight forward.

How much would a plumber charge to install a shower pan?


----------



## mahlere (Aug 6, 2006)

not nearly as much as they will charge to remove the shower and fix it after you screw it up. It only looks straight forward until the real install stops looking like the picture in the book. Good luck. I am positive that you can do it, but plan on several attempts and a lot longer time frame than you planned on.


----------



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

mahlere said:


> not nearly as much as they will charge to remove the shower and fix it after you screw it up. It only looks straight forward until the real install stops looking like the picture in the book. Good luck. I am positive that you can do it, but plan on several attempts and a lot longer time frame than you planned on.



Ghee thanks


----------



## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

jerome8283 said:


> Ghee thanks


Jerome, throw the book out and run up to the ceramic tile and stone section of this forum.

http://www.contractortalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=73

Post asking for help w/a shower pan, RD or Bud Cline should be able to help you out. These guys are top notch and can walk you though.

A shower pan is not difficult at all. With your skills as a mason it should be a piece of cake. Plumbers rarely do it correctly any way.

From what I see of the photo you posted you need to remove some of the remaining old drain from the existing pipe. Looks like a gasket and metal cup from the old shower receptor is still attached.

I built my own shower pan and I am a just an excavating contractor.

PS. Nice demo job!!

And here is a link that will help.

http://ontariotile.com/preslope.html


----------



## Peladu (Jan 8, 2006)

jmic said:


> While you have it all torn apart I would change out that diverter and adjust your shower spoyt accordingly.


I agree 100%...:thumbsup:


----------



## Gordo (Feb 21, 2006)

jerome8283 said:


> Yes. I do Masonry work. This is my first attempt at a shower pan install.
> 
> I picked up this book, http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Bathrooms-Projects-Remodeling/dp/1589230620 which provides step by step instructions for the pan install. It appears pretty straight forward.
> 
> How much would a plumber charge to install a shower pan?


You already know I think you should hire a plumber........but if you want to go for it ....have at it.

Another side note as far as the carpentry goes.......add another 2x4 stud on that back wall where the drywall looks to be 'floating'. This will also give you something to screw your tile backerboard to. Skim coat using 20 mud this transition and the one next to entry door.

Also, is the floor 3/4"? Beef up the shower floor with another layer of 3/4" to prevent 'deflection' that may crack your mud floor.

Plumber in my neck of the woods would charge $500 for pan, and diverter (Delta 1700) change mat. and labor. Well worth it.


----------



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

Gordo said:


> You already know I think you should hire a plumber........but if you want to go for it ....have at it.
> 
> Another side note as far as the carpentry goes.......add another 2x4 stud on that back wall where the drywall looks to be 'floating'. This will also give you something to screw your tile backerboard to. Skim coat using 20 mud this transition and the one next to entry door.
> 
> ...


Thanks. The top layer is 3/4" but there is another layer beneath, it's hard to tell what it is. The floor does appear stronger in this area.


----------



## lxdollarsxl (Apr 13, 2006)

can you get to the drainage from beneath the stall?


----------



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

lxdollarsxl said:


> can you get to the drainage from beneath the stall?


No.


----------



## Gordo (Feb 21, 2006)

What is underneath? Even if it is ceiling, you may have to cut a hole to access underneath. Or you could cut a square around the drain on the top side and piece it back in.

Call a plumber.:laughing:


----------



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

Gordo said:


> What is underneath? Even if it is ceiling, you may have to cut a hole to access underneath. Or you could cut a square around the drain on the top side and piece it back in.
> 
> Call a plumber.:laughing:


Why do I need to get underneath Gordon?


----------



## jerome8283 (May 21, 2006)

I was able to get the drain off. It just required a little more muscle and careful maneuvering. 

Also, I confrimed again, the floor consists of two layers of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood.


----------



## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

i also agree i would install new antiscalding valve when its open. I have no ideal about shower pan the drainage pipe looks like trouble. I say 
MIKE FINLEY


----------



## Gordo (Feb 21, 2006)

jerome8283 said:


> Why do I need to get underneath Gordon?


To tie in the drain.


----------



## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

A push-on shower drain can be installed from the top side, as can a solvent weld PVC bodied drain.

Or am I missing something?


----------



## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

Double-A said:


> Or am I missing something?


Yes, the extra work involved to cut a hole in the ceiling, and the repairs related to that.:laughing:


----------



## Gordo (Feb 21, 2006)

Double-A said:


> A push-on shower drain can be installed from the top side, as can a solvent weld PVC bodied drain.
> 
> Or am I missing something?


See what I mean? A plumber will solve your problem.:thumbup:


----------

