# Cutting in a sharp tight line



## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

Fellas I was curious as to any pointers or "exercises" one can do in order to make a sharp "cut" between colors. I do respect your trade as I do actually enjoy painting our walls at home. But certainly don't have any intentions of becoming a painter. It's a lot of work.

It would be nice to look at those areas in question and say proudly "yeah, I've got game"


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## Joe_the_Pro (Aug 9, 2011)

I'm not a painter, but I've talked with a pro who would run a faint pencil line from a regular (non- mechanical) pencil down the transition (wall to ceiling). This gave him something to cut to, and said that it helped him (especially on irregular ceilings). 

I'm sure all the pro's will have more real techniques for you here shortly. Keep up the good work.:clap:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Cutting in a straight line has a bunch of different variables. Tape does not work unless you are spraying.

Here is what works for me;

Wooster brush.
High quality paint which for me is Dunn Edwards.
I like to thin the paint a little so it flows nice.
A dry brush for me is better than a wet one.
Dip 1/3 of the brush into the paint.
Tap the brush twice on both sides to get the right amount of paint on the brush.
When applying the paint, start away from your line and work into it.
I prefer two coats.

This is what works for me so other people will have other suggestions.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

I worked for a painting contractor when I was a teenager, he always told me when cutting to hold the brush like a pencil and draw a line.

Oh and don't push the brush!!!


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

My best cut-in work is after several drinks - calms the nerves :thumbsup:


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Good prep = good lines. Takes about 15 minutes to caulk the base and the lid on an average room. Makes all the difference in the world.


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

practice...


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

My dad could cut in a ceiling in no time flat and it looked perfect. I could never master his technique so here is what I do on my own home (using a good quality painters tape from SW). Simple taping and cutting never worked well for me because no matter how good the tape was, I would still get bleed under the tape in spots. I probably used too much paint or something I don't now. Anyway, here's what I now do around my own home when I'm cutting in anything....

1. Whichever surface you are going to apply the tape to.... start with that color and surface and completely fill into the corner (or edge) without any worries of overflow onto the other colored surface. In fact you WANT it to overflow onto the other surface some.

2. When that dries, apply your tape right into your cut line and paint over the tape at the cut line with the same color as the surface the tape is applied to (allowing it to overflow into the other surface you are cutting to). You WANT it to overflow into the other surface a bit to make sure any bleed that gets under the tape is the same color as the surface the tape is applied to. Let that dry. Now, you've got a tightly sealed tape line with any bleed that was going to happen.... having already happened in the color that's already on that surface.

3. Now, cut back into the tape line with your second color overflowing just the edge of the tape. Let that dry.

4. When you pull your tape, you'll have a perfectly clean cut line. Well, as perfect as your tape line anyway.

It's a PITA, but for an amateur like me, it gives me professional looking results.

Here is an example of my results with a white ceiling, ivory colored wall and a taupe accent wall in my bathroom I did recently. The lighting/color in this pic totally s**k*.... but you get the idea.











One hint.... like all painters tape, don't leave it on too long. I pull it after about 2 hours and that's about the limit before it starts pulling the paint along with it.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Metro M & L said:


> Good prep = good lines. Takes about 15 minutes to caulk the base and the lid on an average room. Makes all the difference in the world.


I'm trying to visualize that. Never tried that on ceilings.

While we're on the topic of caulk, who makes a flat white caulk?


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Metro M & L said:


> Good prep = good lines. Takes about 15 minutes to caulk the base and the lid on an average room. Makes all the difference in the world.


That sounds like a great idea, especially here where they texture all the walls and ceilings. I'll be trying that on the next one for sure. Thanks!


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## Paintedlady101 (Feb 26, 2011)

In teaching someone to paint, here are a few pointers I have given. When cutting in a ceiling line, hold your arm horizontal along the ceiling and when you pull the brush , pull from your shoulder. Don't flip your wrist or drop your elbow. Also , hold your brush straight and flat, and concentrate looking at the point where your bristles meet the ceiling line. Don't overload your brush with paint, and don't add to much pressure to the brush ( ie. Fanning out the bristles ) I hope this might help you out a little.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I use a 2 1/2" sash brush. 80% of the brush is used to support the last 20% which is what actually makes your line. Don't try and use the whole side of the brush.

I had two old school Italian painters that only used 3" brushes and were not only fast as h*ll, but good. They showed me the technique.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I always use a 3 1/2" sash brush and I also like 4" square brush for cutting in, I have found that if I use tape to get a nice line, after I apply the tape I will take my caulk gun and lay down a thin bead of caulk on the edge of the tape that will be painted up to, then take a damp rag and wipe the caulk down. that way the paint doesn't bleed. and the tape pulls off real nice. Leaves a nice line but thats if I'm doing walls with two colors, ceilings I just follow the angel of the drywall or plaster, When I did clean up and final walk thrus when I worked new homes I would always use caulk to clean up someones cut ins, lay down a bead of caulk smooth it out with my finger, and if need be touch up paint. As for baseboards I always caulk them and all trim on new and repaints


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

> and I also like 4" square brush for cutting in


Great big 'ol 4" square brush is what my dad used. I still have it. I still don't know how he did it.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

my last painter would set up our laser level on and cut in to the laser line, this way no pencil marks on the wall

a previous painter would mark a straight line in the corner and then lightly score it with a 3" drywall knife, this would create a crack which the very tip of the brush would follow


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

Fellas (PaintLady included), thanks for all the pointers. The job went pretty well. Flawless, no, but significantly better than any previous paint job. Kept patient, steady and tried not to over-load the brush.

The job is pretty tight. Probably mediocre by your standards, as I can see that this isn't something any ol hucklebuck can co. But you guys helped out a lot and wanted to thank all of you for your comments.

Nat


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## Diablo View (Apr 10, 2011)

Metro M & L said:


> Good prep = good lines. Takes about 15 minutes to caulk the base and the lid on an average room. Makes all the difference in the world.


Caulking walls to lid is standard practice in my company, very clean lines


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

First step is to go out behind the shed and have a smoke break.


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

I like the caulk idea as well and have done it on bad tape joints but remember you have to be a good caulker to achieve a nice caulk line... There are more bad caulkers out there than good ones...

Practice is key. all though for vertical transitions I still like to tape them with a quality tape.


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## Pete'sfeets (Mar 20, 2011)

I thought the discussion was over, but here's my two cents anyhow. I find that when cutting in I use my body, legs arm shoulder but rarely my hands 'cause they are too shakey and when cutting in the baseboard I trace my other hand on the ground for balance. I have callous marks on my shins leaning on the ladder rungs. Finally good judgement and a good brush with fine tips. I find getting too close on the first cutting in is too ballsy, but on the second cut as the first one sealed the surface, there's more control to get close and tight. On the first cut ,paint the first three inch below and then cut in the close corner, sort of like greasing the surface , a wet edge is less friction as you get in close.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I've been doing this a long time but am at a loss as to how to describe it. I push a bead(?) of paint along the edge being cut in. I follow irregular ceiling lines because it looks more like the wall was created in the color. Straight lines just look taped to me. I started my apprenticeship doing nothing but closets! I was not allowed out until I could cut in perfectly. My master was an old style Hungarian painter. He did allow me out to SAND CEILINGS, nice guy, AH?


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Good brush+Good technique+Practice.


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