# Flitch Beam



## Oslerblue (Jun 10, 2008)

Great question ... quite possibly with some extra work in terms of probably having to put a footing under basement level floor below for one of the supporting posts ... assuming I could what are you thinking? Even if I could the new supporting beam would be on the outside of the original wall? The foundation/basement is 10" block construction.


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## DesignPlanBuild (Nov 6, 2010)

Avoid the liability and get the engineer involved. If you're following prints, call your client and notify them that the header drops below the ceiling. The engineer will re engineer the beam to something more suitable for that space and load. ( i.e. W8 steel which will work with 2x8's. You still might need to fir the ceiling a 1/2" because 2x8 = 7 1/2")


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## festerized (May 19, 2007)

I’m estimating a kitchen Reno which requires the center bearing wall to be removed and a flush girder to be put in its place.


After meeting the customer I went straight to my architect/engineer and within 2 hrs he had specs for the beam.


The width of the opening is 13’7” “clear span” The engineer specked a “Better Header” triple 1¾” x 7 ¼” with (2) ¾” steel plates, total weight 575 LBS.
It’s going to be a fun one!


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## wellbuilt home (Oct 22, 2007)

Seems to me that you have 2 micro lams on the out side of the house now . 
If you have good bearing under the beams you could add 2 7.5" lvl to the inside and run bolts thru and just Joist hanger the floor onto the new 7.5 micro lams .
Most houses here have 2x8 beams and if we have a shed roof addition with a large opening Span i remove the existing box beam and add 2x8 lvl across the Span and bolt 2 14" lvl flush to the bottom of the ceiling a nail them to the wall on the second floor.
Just send the engineer a picture and let him sine off on it. John


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