# Mesh Tape



## Thompson (Aug 9, 2007)

Just wondering why you guys dont like mesh tape. I have allways used mesh with no problems. I glue the board to the studs put the mesh on and mud. I only have been doing drywall for 3 years am i doing something wrong


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

When you get one of those houses that move all the time you'll see what happens then you will know why :thumbsup:


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## NFMudder (Aug 20, 2007)

*mesh tape cracks me up*

You must like call backs. I have not seen a mesh job that didn't crack.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

We only use paper tape on inside corners. Mesh goes everywhere else, but we also only use setting compounds, never drying. Never had a call back yet for drywall issues.


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## raven2006 (Dec 19, 2006)

I don't understand how anyone makes good time using only setting compounds. I mix up a big bucket of mud and go until it's empty, then make another. With easy sand you have to mix small amounts at a time, seems you would spend more time mixing mud than actually putting it on the wall. Plus the easy sand never goes on as smooth as regular mud.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Raven 

- if you're drywalling an entire house, I totally agree. We drywall small rooms (bathrooms), and making good time is exactly what setting compounds are all about.

- Setting compounds mix up as smooth as drying, at least they do for us. Maybe we've just gotten to that point from lots of practice.

- Setting compounds definitly separate the men from the boys, I think is the saying. There is little room for sloppiness. There is a different skill set to be learned, but the trade offs are well worth it if you are up to learning a different way of working.

We mix one sack at a time, starting with 45 and put on the first coat, then switch to 90 for the 2nd and 3rd. We run a blower in the room to circulate the air and help with the drying. We keep a 5 gallon bucket full of water and a sponge, any tools not in use go in the bucket. All tools are stainless steel. With practice 2 guys can easily have a bathroom ready for texture by lunch.

We use DensShield in our wet areas and setting compounds are also the only products allowed in the transition from drywall to DensShield.

I really should start looking at trying some topping mix for the final, but it just makes for another set of materials to keep in the trailer.


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## taper71 (Dec 5, 2006)

I am not a fan of setting compound either, but I will agree with Mike that if you are doing small rooms it would be definately better. Drying compounds you would waste too much time. I dont like mesh tape either, but I can see the benifit of using it when using setting coumpounds in small areas as it would set better and save a step in the taping process. Time is money


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

Mike,

Do you mix two batches of 90 for the second and third coat or just stretch it? 

I have been doing a couple of 20's and then finish with GP for the last. It is so thin, that it drys like hot mud. Now that I am experimenting with hoppers and mud tubes, I am using the 40 minute for my corners.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

Hot mud Tip
If your using metal beads, try adding a pan full of 90 min easysand to a bucket of all purpose, It runs the same as straight all purpose, but it will NOT shrink, it isn't enough to make the mud set up fast, so you can use it all day, and then pour some water on it when you leave, next day, pour the water off and its good to go again. Have someone pour it in slowly as you mix, this will eliminate ANY clumping (if you just dump the powder on top and then mix, it will clump)
Good luck


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

kgphoto said:


> Mike,
> 
> Do you mix two batches of 90 for the second and third coat or just stretch it?


Yes every lift gets another batch mixed. Unless I am missing something here, I don't see how I could not mix another batch for each coat, since the last coat has to set up enough to dress it for the next one and that would mean the last batch would have also set up in the bucket by then.

Capt-Sheetrock - personally I'd be real cautious about "no shrinkage" claims by adding a little setting to drying compound. I'm sure there is some effect on some level, but I would have my doubts to the claims of drying compound taking on the gap filling and spanning abilities and non-shrinkage abilities of setting compounds just by a little mixing of the two.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

Mike,

Sometimes i find the stuff on the wall sets faster since it is so thin and there is a fan blowing on it. So I can start on one end of the room, make the circuit and then keep right on going with another coat. 

Also I don't keep mine in a bucket once mixed. I pour it out onto one or more hawks and wash the bucket immediately while it is still easy. I will sometimes set up a plaster board if I am moving a lot of mud.

I use a hawk and knives for most coast and then a pan and knives for the last skim, since the mud is so thin, it tends to fall off the hawk.

I have just got a drywall trowel. it is like a cement trowel but slightly concave. I will get a straight one also in stainless. I just had to get this one as it was only $5.00 and with the comfort handle too.

Several people have recommended that I try the trowel method since I work with concrete and stucco already.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

I see. I'll have to look into that and see about it. Not a big fan of hawks, but one of my guys is.

I gave up on washing buckets about a year ago. We use 5 gallon bucket liners, they cost $1.00 a piece. With a man being paid approximately $25.00 an hour with full labor burdens included, spending 5-10 minutes washing a bucket costs $2.25-$4.15. An average job we use 6-7 bucket liners.


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## phinsher (Oct 27, 2005)

The problem with the mesh tape is that very little mud makes it through the mesh and into the joint. If your joint are perfect not a big issue, but if there's a little gap then most likely it's not being filled. That just allows the joint to crack a lot easier if there's any movement. Just experiment by skimming over mesh tape, then pull it off and see how much makes it through the tape into the joint.

Ideally the joint is completely filled in. If necessary you can prefill the crack with hot mud before applying mesh tape. We do a significant amount of drywall repair (about 25% of my business) and joints that aren't completely filled create a majority of the cracks.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

Mike,

It takes me with a brush and a sponge, about 30 seconds to wash a bucket. It takes 10 seconds with a hose.

Phinsher,

I always apply my mud to the mesh with a 6 inch knife and push it in real well. I have gone back after that and then over coated with a 12 inch knife to fill the taper. I will run a test as you describe, but I think I will find my gaps well filled.

Greg recommends doing his first coat with mesh and hot mud with a 12, but I think you need the smaller knife to be able to apply enough pressure to fill the gaps. I will try it both ways. I am tearing out a bathroom, so I should be mudding in two days.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

mike, if you don't belive the no shrinkage claim, just try it sometime
You still have to skim coat the bead, but adding a little easysand you will fill it in one coat, no matter how deep it is.
This may not be a factor in a small job, but when your looking a 100 or 2 metal beads, the time saved is considerable


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

kgphoto said:


> Greg recommends doing his first coat with mesh and hot mud with a 12, but I think you need the smaller knife to be able to apply enough pressure to fill the gaps. I will try it both ways. I am tearing out a bathroom, so I should be mudding in two days.


I apply pretty good pressure with the 12 to get the mud into the seam. The reason I like the 12 is that it holds a lot more mud than a smaller knife, so I can save pan dips. The other bonus is that you never get mud rolling over the outside edges of the knife when wiping down. I can fill the taper and wipe down neatly in one long pass (usually).

The one product I want to try out is the GP hot mud. I've been told it mixes a lot smoother than Easy Sand. I can't find the stuff though.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

The newest thing I've found that I'm trying out is Wet and Stick tape by Grabber.

Talk about fast! Holy crap. The inside corners absolutely fly. No mud needed at all.

The guy that invented the ButtTaper is now my drywall sub for larger jobs and he put me onto it. It's not cheap, but it is so fast to apply and works so well, I can easily justify the cost.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

Hi Greg,

I have tried the wet and stick tape, but kept getting bubbles. This was on a flat seam, so it really shouldn't have happened. I am much more secure with mesh and hot mud or even standard tape. I am going to drywall a shed at my house soon, so I may try it again.

As to mud squeeze out, if you apply a blob of mud on the center of your 6 inch knife, it will all apply to the wall with no squeeze out on the edges. I get the idea of less trips to the pan for fill ups, I just want to make sure I get the gaps filled. Try using a knife and trowel like Myron shows.

I also like to use a hawk since I can load it faster and empty it faster if I am running a lot of mud. Soupy stuff still gets the pan.

Any news on the BTE (hint, hint)


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## Aaron111 (Nov 24, 2007)

Thompson said:


> Just wondering why you guys dont like mesh tape. I have allways used mesh with no problems. I glue the board to the studs put the mesh on and mud. I only have been doing drywall for 3 years am i doing something wrong



it depends on what your dry walling out their??? totally ... use the best only... paper tape is very good," imagine using that tape to tape an entire house with?? you can use mesh on a bakooka... I guarantee it .... :w00t:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Never saw bucket liners?..... I use the round knife to get mud out of the bucket. Also carry my own hose and nozzle to wash out buckets. 

It always amazes me what kind of half-ass setup most HO's have.


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