# Hardwood floor inlay



## Platinum8 (Oct 8, 2008)

Hey fellas,

I am about to start a hardwood floor job and they want to do maple floors with a cherry inlay. I am using prefinished floors, 3 1/4" wide boards. I wanted some of your opinions. Should I picture frame around the room with the maple or should I just run it in one direction even on the short ends? I think I want to picture frame it and if so how many times should I go around before the inlay? I was thinking about 3 wraps. 

Also how do you guys start? Do you start with outer picture frame or should i start in the middle with all the boards running in one direction and screw some strappin to floor where my inlay is going? 

Thanks in advance!!:thumbsup:


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## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

as Bob Ross used to say "it's your world"

if you do a border, then start with the field first..measure out where you border will start and lay just beyond this point.

you can use a dummy board as a guide where your border will start....

insert cherry inlay( I assume you mean feature strip) where you want in placed in the border. then you can zip the other side

since pre finished,

apply tape to where you will be cutting and use a quality cross cutting blade.(prevents splintering of finish)..router in a groove and install slip toungue.

then start your border.

border size is subjective, but should fit to the size of the room..
always a preference..


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## s. donato (Jan 23, 2008)

i did a cherry with maple inlay ;-)
http://picasaweb.google.com/saldonato/Flooring#5264583341639653362

i make sure i lay the flooring square to the most noticeable feature of the room. i usually snap reference lines all over the place. i use my 4 point laser to square out the room. good luck i can't wait to see the pics of it.


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## Cdat (Apr 18, 2007)

I'd picture frame it but it depends on the size of the room, don't it? As stated above, lay out the cherry to go over the places of the inlay, then cut the inlay and tongue/groove the ends and install.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

I prefer to snap lines and lay the field first. Then I use my Festool saw and guide rails to get nice smooth, square, and chip- free edges. Depending on the thickness of the material and the substrate I will then route a groove around all sides, make some tongues on the table saw real quick, and install the border.


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## Floordude (Aug 30, 2007)

Platinum8 said:


> Hey fellas,
> 
> I am about to start a hardwood floor job and they want to do maple floors with a cherry inlay. I am using prefinished floors, 3 1/4" wide boards. I wanted some of your opinions. Should I picture frame around the room with the maple or should I just run it in one direction even on the short ends? I think I want to picture frame it and if so how many times should I go around before the inlay? I was thinking about 3 wraps.
> 
> ...




All options you should get discussed and documented which pick, how far and where, then signed off on, before you take it upon yourself to chose these specifics of the job.


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## firemike (Dec 11, 2005)

> all options you should get discussed and documented which pick, how far and where, then signed off on, before you take it upon yourself to chose these specifics of the job.


 bingo!


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## Platinum8 (Oct 8, 2008)

should i miter the corners of my feature strip and the 3 or so rows that picture frame it or should I but them? Or is that all just personal pref?

thanks


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## jcalvin (Feb 1, 2008)

i done a herringbone border using 5 boards white oak then 3 boards walnut and turned the white oak inside that traditionally in my personal home. it was the first piece of hardwood i had ever put down before in my life. i had always hired it done but didn't want to pay it when the money came out of my own pocket. it was absolutely beautiful. the way the wood came together with the different grains and colors, i loved it. the only advice i can give on the installation is to take it one board at a time and make darn sure you stay straight. it is VERY tedious, time consuming, and trying. take your time it is well worth it. as far as pricing a job like this, hourly only! make sure the ho knows there is no way of pricing something like this unless you only do floors like this everyday.


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## s. donato (Jan 23, 2008)

i would not miter the corners. utilize the T&Gs as much as possible. like jcalvin said just alternate sides of the the picture frame. they will weave together nicely and it will be a strong finish unlike miters.


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## the big 12 inch (Jan 22, 2009)

Platinum8 said:


> should i miter the corners of my feature strip and the 3 or so rows that picture frame it or should I but them? Or is that all just personal pref?
> 
> thanks


Only pu**sys log cabin their corners!!!​


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

s. donato said:


> i would not miter the corners. utilize the T&Gs as much as possible. like jcalvin said just alternate sides of the the picture frame. they will weave together nicely and it will be a strong finish unlike miters.


Um..I can still have a tongue & groove with a miter....that's what a router is for :thumbsup:


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## Floor Inlay (Jan 7, 2010)

*P word*



the big 12 inch said:


> Only pu**sys log cabin their corners!!!​


Well that's good to know before I start


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

I must be a p*ssy, huh?:laughing:

Here's a floor I laid last spring. It was 4" red oak with a walnut border. I started at the wall & worked my way in. I've demoed some period floors laid like this in the past & they were all started at the wall working their way to the middle.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Here, here to Festool and flooring work.


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## Floor Inlay (Jan 7, 2010)

pinwheel said:


> I must be a p*ssy, huh?:laughing:
> 
> Here's a floor I laid last spring. It was 4" red oak with a walnut border. I started at the wall & worked my way in. I've demoed some period floors laid like this in the past & they were all started at the wall working their way to the middle.



Looks good to me Did you install a medallion?


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Floor Inlay said:


> Looks good to me Did you install a medallion?



Thank you. No, not in that floor, but I have installed medallions on other jobs, just don't have any pics handy.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

Pinwheel-do you have any finished pics of that floor? I would be interested in seeing better details where the two rooms come together.


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## KG007 (Oct 23, 2009)

*Corner blocks*

If you haven't already bought your wood, and you are doing it yourself, have you considered buying some actual borders and corner blocks?

Personally, I'd miter the corners if I wan't using corner blocks.

Means mitering the rows OUTSIDE the picture frame, too. (Assuming you are running the outside rows in both directions.

If your room isn't really square I might consider changing baseboard and using 3/4 x 3/4 quarter round to give myself some leeway, especially if you start from anything other than the wall. Look forward to pics.


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

Cherry floors with maple borders, 5"wide each... unfortunately, it was unfinished, site-sanded....


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

Nice---Very nice--


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## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

msv said:


> Cherry floors with maple borders, 5"wide each... unfortunately, it was unfinished, site-sanded....


That looks awesome...

Who the hell is walking over that with their boots on though?


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

it's a $10 mil+ house in Nashville, TN.... i'm in Atlanta and the guy called me all the way up there.... he wanted Provincial stain on Braz cherry...(stupid) it's about 5500 sqft... every hallway, every room and walkway and closet has a border.... i spent 2 days just taping the maple, so that i don't get stain on it.... took me 2 weeks to sand and finish with 2 coats... just me and my helper.... I installed it in 5 days with 2 helpers back in 2006.... i sanded it in july of 2008...


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## root69 (Jan 17, 2010)

*niceeee*

looks awesome, nice work, but get them boots off of it lol, so what did you get for that job, i done a similar job with prefinished stuff about 4 years ago, when you invest the time in jobs it shows and everyone is happey in the end, keep up the good work


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

the whole thing was about 37k...including materials.... he stood me up for the last 11-12k and there's absolutely nothing i can do about it.... and that, i can say it was the best job i've done in my 6 years of flooring and after hotel expenses and helpers i kinda did it for free.... it's kinda funny in a sad way....


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Good to see ya over here msv. Very nice work on that floor.


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

these are pics from the install back in '06, the week before christmas...


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

some other borders and stuff....:thumbsup:


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

and some more..... they are all from different houses.... sorry for jacking the thread:whistling
hey pinwheel, what's up?


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## Rockmonster (Nov 15, 2007)

Beautiful work.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

indeed. nice work.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Here is one of my projects,custom designed/made maple/wenge feature strip border with Brazilian Cherry Parisian parquet field.
Obviously when it comes to borders,the planning is the key;in this instance, the parquet panels are made to fit without any cut in the field even at the diagonal corner and around fireplace.(half panels used, due the design it has a cut line corner to corner)
Once the field is glued exactly in place, the border and the skirt installed.
Nowadays I only install borders with panel flooring field,I think that is when it shows the best.Somehow, I can able to convince the clients to do that.


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

very nice.... what's the cost for the wood? ballpark....


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## KG007 (Oct 23, 2009)

*Beautiful work...*

Wonderful work. Are you making the parquet yourself or have a source for it? I'm assuming it is 3/4" solid and glued down? Any special prep or subfloor you insist on?


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Thanks!
This poject was while back I really do not remember the pricing but I guess I figured my cost about $8-10 for unfinished parquet. I ordered the custom width T&G flooring locally-was not enough time to mill for me.Then I cut and assembled all in my shop. Every square needed to be some odd size like 10 9/16". Every piece is T&G 3/4" solid including maple and wenge feature strip-which itself is glued and laminated. Whole thing is glued to 12mm(1/2") cork underlayment (which was glued to slab first).
This was not a new house, it was remodelling ,so the existing room dimensions needed to work for this design,somehow I manage to fit it!


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

got another one i just did this last friday... 6" hand scraped oak with marble medallion... the medallion cost around 5k ....


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Hey msv, 
Looks great man! Looks like you took last pics with phone camera though. It would be nice if you get a nice digital camera to make the better pics.I am sure your workmanship will show much better.Take it easy!
My pics were not good as you can see above,nowadays a good camera is around 150 bucks, now I am getting better pics.


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## msv (Aug 5, 2009)

astor said:


> Hey msv,
> Looks great man! Looks like you took last pics with phone camera though. It would be nice if you get a nice digital camera to make the better pics.I am sure your workmanship will show much better.Take it easy!
> My pics were not good as you can see above,nowadays a good camera is around 150 bucks, now I am getting better pics.


 well, my $450 Fuji with wide angle and 18X zoom was dropped on tile this new year's by a damn kid... so i'm down to the Iphone for now.... I really love having great looking pics with my work for my site and blog but right now i can't really spend on a new camera.... and when i do it's not going to be a $150 one.... sometimes, late at night i still shed some tears for my Fuji....:sad:


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