# tuckpointing 1890 home



## MAULEMALL (May 16, 2010)

artisanstone said:


> Most of what I know about it is from researching. I have used what would be considered a Type O mortar. 2 parts hydrated lime to 1 part white portland. I did premix and slake the lime overnight. The portland helps give it an initial set, and can affect the reaction, making the lime hydraulic.
> 
> From what I understand, the bagged hydrated lime will never have the same properties as putty made from quicklime. In areas without access to quicklime, the mix I described is often used.
> 
> ...


http://www.mc2-ice.com/support/estref/popular_conversion_files/masonry/mortar.htm

The recipe booklet :whistling





From the above page



*Mason Work*

The five typical mortar mixes designated types *M,S,N,O* and *K* are labeled so because each is an alternate letter in the term *MASON WORK* in descending psi strength. These designations were assigned in 1954 and replaced the mortar designations A-1, A-2, B and C.

*M* 2,500 psi

A

*S* 1,800 psi

O

*N* 750 psi


W

*O* 350 psi

R

*K* 75 psi

Know that a weaker psi mortar is not a "bad" or inferior mortar to one with a higher psi. A lower psi mortar has much better adhesive and sealing powers than a higher one. Mortars are selected on the balance between these attributes as to what is required for the building situation on a particular spot in the job. A type M mortar with its high strength yet poor adhesion and sealing can be a bad choice for one area of the job and just what is needed in another.

*Minimum compressive mortar strengths, ASTM and its psi requirements*
The ASTM assigns minimum required compressive strengths to the various mortar types. To meet the minimum psi requirements, a mix just has to be at or above the psi. It can be greatly above the psi. It only has to meet or beat the minimum psi.
Here are the ASTM minimums:
*Type M *2,500 psi
*Type S* 1,800 psi
*Type N* 750 psi
*Type O* 350 psi
*Type K* 75 psi 
But, be aware that the mix listed for type N mortar typically achieves a 28 day strength in the range of 1500 to 2400 psi. This meets and beats the ASTM requirement of 750 psi by a great deal.
Another example is the mix listed for type O mortar provides a usual psi in the range of 750 to 1200 and higher, sometimes up to 2000. Again, this meets the minimum psi of 350 by a large percentage.
Typical type M mixes have strengths of 3000 to 3800 psi and so exceed the ASTM minimum compressive strength requirement of 2500 psi.
Type S mortars are required to have a minimum of 1800 psi and their mixes usually give you strengths of from 2300 to 3000 psi.
So, if you are involved in the historic preservation of masonry and need to be concerned not with a mortar’s minimum strength but with its maximum strength, you need alternate mixes to obtain mortars with a wanted maximum strength. Remember, the ASTM requirements are for minimum psi’s and the normal mix ratios for types M, S, N, O and K exceed, sometimes by a great amount, the minimum compressive strengths. 
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## painterman (Feb 5, 2005)

several years ago I was sent to pick up some material to give to a mason to do some tuck pointing on an 1880 house one was menusha any ideas as to what that was?


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## MAULEMALL (May 16, 2010)

painterman said:


> several years ago I was sent to pick up some material to give to a mason to do some tuck pointing on an 1880 house one was menusha any ideas as to what that was?


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=menusha




As per the click above :whistling


*1.* menusha *78* up, *55* down
An idiot trying to spell minutia.
While it may seem to be minutia, anyone who writes menusha is a ****ing dumbass.
minutia idiot spelling morons stupidity retards 
by D Guy Jun 5, 2006 share this 
*2.* menusha *32* up, *64* down
**** no one cares about cuz its so stupid; just stuff
Your'e full of menusha!


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## painterman (Feb 5, 2005)

Big f'ing help


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

artisanstone said:


> There is also Virginia lime works?? A U.S. company that supplies the restoration industry.


 
I used Virginia Lime Company last year on some hundred year old buildings in town. They have a support fella there that is real good. He gave me samples to try and advice on how to manage the drying time. 

I had burlap curtains hanging all over town for several weeks. Got a few questions on that. The repairs look great and I learned a few tricks on how to match the old color as well.:thumbsup:

Lime mortar is a great product that should be in every masons arsenal for repairing old structures and even building new buildings in the right circumstances.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

I hope he was super careful raking/grinding those joints out. Those are really nice brick and ANY damage to those sharp edges is going to make the repair joints look HUGE!


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## artisanstone (Nov 27, 2007)

I googled Virginia Lime Works after I posted that, and they have a new system for new construction. Lime based block, mortar, insulating grout, and plasters. It looks pretty interesting. http://www.virginialimeworks.com/enviro-web/product_info/productsinfo/products.htm


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## Rock Headed (Nov 8, 2007)

Very interesting. Portland cement mortars are too brittle and carry a major impact to the ecosystem. I am rather pleased to see what virginia lime works is doing.


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