# Fastpatch 30 - anybody used it?



## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

plazaman said:


> You can use durabond for the first 1-2 coats .. Then you can use easy sand for feathering .. Easy sand does just that , sands easy ...


Exactly how we do our mud work.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

JHC said:


> Exactly how we do our mud work.


After hard or hot coat patches built up to near the existing level surface, I then go with something easily sandable and dries fairly fast , I use those pre-mixed super lightweight spackle products. It saves me time not having to mix powder with water in a bucket and dries sandable in about the same amount of time. Tip: I sometimes set my small cheap 1200 watt hair dryer next to the patch to dry it sandable...faster.

Then, , I prime the patched area. That really shows if the patch is perfectly flush or not. I then may do one more quick skim with the lightweight patching spackle which dries in minutes, hit it again with some primer and finish coat it to flush perfection.

The key to getting better at this is to build up the rock hard fast drying stuff close enough to flush that it makes the final sand coat patch application... cake. I like the lightweight patching compounds out there for doing that, super lightweight and the consistency of cake frosting.

No brainer tip: If a spackle patch like this ends up a bit thicker than you wanted, help the spackle drying process along by poking some holes in the spackle material with a nail or something, then finish spackle it when dry.


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## Rbnsb5 (May 5, 2013)

ModernStyle said:


> Could be an application issue on my part. I just know that when I patch with normal join compound I can get it to feather out and be perfect. Sands up real nice.
> When I use hot mud it either is like sanding concrete or won't sand at all.
> A guy I sometimes sub for had his father in law patch some ceilings with some 5. He sent me over to sand and paint the spot. It wouldn't sand at all, just rolled up like I was sanding caulk and not mud.
> Just the most recent issue I have had with it, in my opinion it sucks.


I'm gonna have to partially agree with you here. I prefer using the joint compound for the reasons you stated. One thing that I've found helpful if I HAVE to use 20 or 45 min is to run a thin coat, as it starts to set up use a wet sponge to gently smith out the finish. Run second coat. If wet sanding with a sponge won't give you the result you need dry sand it. It looking a lot better over a sanded finish. I still don't prefer it though. Stick with what works for you.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Rbnsb5 said:


> I'm gonna have to partially agree with you here. I prefer using the joint compound for the reasons you stated. One thing that I've found helpful if I HAVE to use 20 or 45 min is to run a thin coat, as it starts to set up use a wet sponge to gently smith out the finish. Run second coat. If wet sanding with a sponge won't give you the result you need dry sand it. It looking a lot better over a sanded finish. I still don't prefer it though. Stick with what works for you.


Hot patch it with powder mix that dries rock hard, smoothed out with a sponge, I've done that where convenient, mostly exterior patches.


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Hot mud as smooth as you can get it . Topcoat coat, regular mud, then sand.


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