# How much do you thin your latex paint?



## steve-in-kville

I've been experiementing lately with various paint viscosities. Some paints are a lot heavier than others (SW ProBlock... heaviest I've ever used) and benefit from thinning, especially when brushed on. Other topcoats are meant to be thinned, while others get trashy when water is added.

So I'm curious, is there a set formula you guys are using to thin paint, or is every can you apply different? What's your experience on this?

steve


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## Brushslingers

steve-in-kville said:


> I've been experiementing lately with various paint viscosities. Some paints are a lot heavier than others (SW ProBlock... heaviest I've ever used) and benefit from thinning, especially when brushed on. Other topcoats are meant to be thinned, while others get trashy when water is added.
> 
> So I'm curious, is there a set formula you guys are using to thin paint, or is every can you apply different? What's your experience on this?
> 
> steve


Thats the mil thickness layer you are messing with. Heh, but on the can of most latex paints it actually gives formulas for how much water to add for spray, and etc. I like thick heavy paints personally.. makes me feel good when a big fat drip hits me in the eye.


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## AAPaint

I have no problem with thinning latex, and like Brushslinger said, most latex paints allow as much as 1qt of water per gallon (in some cases). Personally, when I do trim, I tend to add just a little shot of water into my cut pot to give me a tad better flow. I have done this with every kind of latex I've used, and never had ill results. Just make sure it's mixed in thoroughly. I've never seen it get trashy...

Oh, and if you think problock is heavy stuff, spread a few lines of Color Accents (slickshift loves to call it "deep" accents for some reason) and you will see some HEAVY HEAVY stuff.


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## Brushslingers

AAPaint said:


> Oh, and if you think problock is heavy stuff, spread a few lines of Color Accents (slickshift loves to call it "deep" accents for some reason) and you will see some HEAVY HEAVY stuff.


That stuff is lightweight compared to colorwheel optima.. now THAT, is a thick paint.


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## slickshift

steve-in-kville said:


> ...Some paints ...benefit from thinning, especially when brushed on.
> So I'm curious, is there a set formula you guys are using to thin paint, or is every can you apply different? What's your experience on this?
> ...


I never thin latex/waterborne when brushing

Occasionally I'll use a conditioner for oil-based paints when brushing


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## slickshift

AAPaint said:


> Oh, and if you think problock is heavy stuff, spread a few lines of Color Accents (slickshift loves to call it "deep" accents for some reason) and you will see some HEAVY HEAVY stuff.


I especially don't thin Deep Accents by SWP


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## steve-in-kville

AAPaint said:


> Oh, and if you think problock is heavy stuff, spread a few lines of Color Accents (slickshift loves to call it "deep" accents for some reason) and you will see some HEAVY HEAVY stuff.


What brand is that?? Never heard of it.

Thanks!!


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## AAPaint

It is Sherwin Williams Color Accents. It's what you must go to when say you want duration but you want a super dark red. Color accents is a high quality (THICK) paint with an ultra deep base for the real dark colors.

/me LoL @ slick!!


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## slickshift

It is by far the best paint ever for deep colors like reds etc.
(this from a Ben Moore guy that doesn't even know the correct names for SWP products)


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## steve-in-kville

AAPaint said:


> It is Sherwin Williams Color Accents. It's what you must go to when say you want duration but you want a super dark red. Color accents is a high quality (THICK) paint with an ultra deep base for the real dark colors.
> 
> /me LoL @ slick!!


Okay, thanks!! I buy a lot of SW products, but most of my paint is interior latex in some off-white, non-offensive, all-loving type color.

steve


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## Joewho

Ahh, color accents. I just did two exterior trim and one interior wall with it. There are formulas for both, but the exact name escapes me right now. I've been working around laquer thinner all day.

Depending on humidity, I may thin paint. It seems that the accent line is much more brush friendly than duration. Since moving to las vegas, I've noticed that the paint dried out in the pot very, very quickly. So I try to keep some condioner on hand. 

I will use water, but not much. In this climate it just isn't feasible to keep adding water every 20 minutes.


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## Brushslingers

Joewho said:


> Ahh, color accents. I just did two exterior trim and one interior wall with it. There are formulas for both, but the exact name escapes me right now. I've been working around laquer thinner all day.
> 
> Depending on humidity, I may thin paint. It seems that the accent line is much more brush friendly than duration. Since moving to las vegas, I've noticed that the paint dried out in the pot very, very quickly. So I try to keep some condioner on hand.
> 
> I will use water, but not much. In this climate it just isn't feasible to keep adding water every 20 minutes.


Something I do here is keep a bucket of water on the ground, every so often (smoke breaks) I toss the brush into the water bucket... and go from there.


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## Joewho

Actually, I wash the brush a lot. That saves on a lot of thinnning. And it saves my expensive purdy xp pips.


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## Terrence

When I spray, I usually add about a 1/2 cup of Floetrol, and a shot of water to a gallon if the paint is very thick.

Also when it's hot and dry out, I keep adding a little water to my pot. I also wash my brush frequently to keep it nice and fluid. Also, I wash my roller covers before I use them to get loose lint off, and to prelubricate it. This seems to make the paint flow into the fibers easier so it loads faster.

Here's a trick I discovered yesterday by accident:
The hose wasn't connected to the spigot. The HO was standing over me talking and distracting me, and I accidentally got a little paint on the concrete. Since it was a hot and dry day, I knew I had only a few seconds to get it wet. When I realized the hose wasn't ready, I ran to my giant tupperware box-o'tricks, and pulled out the Floetrol,and dumped a capful on the spill. That kept it wet while I hooked up the hose.

Worked like a charm, and the HO was impressed! 

--And then I told him to go away.:w00t:


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## GoodPainter

I just got a gal of Floetrol for my latex--havnt tried it yet but im gonna use it for all prob--brush roll and spray

I add water sometimes but never a lot, usually just stir paint every 10-15 min in hot weather

Robert


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## steve-in-kville

I keep a bottle of Floetrol around for those special circumstances when I mix two different brands of paint together, helps things blend better.

You contractors may never mix different brands together, but us landlords often mix leftover paint into one 5-gallon bucket and paint a room or trim with it. The Floetrol helps everything to get along.

I just painted a few bedrooms of my own home with three different variations of "Linen White".... had half a fiver from Lowes, a full can of Behr as well as two cans of SW Classic 99. Mixed her all together and it came out great (just remember this was my own home, not someone else's).

steve


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## Brushslingers

Actually, ALL leftover light colors I pour into one and use as primer on the next job... and I have at one time poured three different brands/colors into one to get the color right.


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## steve-in-kville

Brushslingers said:


> Actually, ALL leftover light colors I pour into one and use as primer on the next job... and I have at one time poured three different brands/colors into one to get the color right.



Do you mix the left-over topcoats with a primer, or use the topcoats alone as a primer? Seems like most topcoats I've used don't do a whole lot of good as a sealer/blocker (unless its a repaint).

steve


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## Brushslingers

steve-in-kville said:


> Do you mix the left-over topcoats with a primer, or use the topcoats alone as a primer? Seems like most topcoats I've used don't do a whole lot of good as a sealer/blocker (unless its a repaint).
> 
> steve


Depends on the app, raw sheetrock i''m gonna have to sand alot anyhow, outside and re-paints, I use regular primer. Commercial build outs and such it's normally just raw, flat sheetrock.


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## steve-in-kville

Makes sense. I once had three 1-gallon cans of paint stored in the basement. My two little girls (ages 1 and 2) thought it was great fun to tear the lables off while I was at work. Wife thought nothing of telling me she found the torn off lables and threw them away. A month later I found the cans with no lables... so what to do with 3 cans of "mystery paint?"

I knew it had to be something SW made since the cans looked about the same. But had no clue if it was a satin or semi topcoat or one of their primers.

So, I had a few bedrooms to paint (again, one of my rentals) and mixed the three gallons with a Linen White from Lowes that I had sitting around. Turned out quite nice... used up that mystery paint.

steve


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## Richard

I dont thin and never will


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## AAPaint

Paintguy26 said:


> I dont thin and never will


Why not? If you use the approved thinners in the right proportions it won't affect the paint at all, ever. The only thing it MIGHT do is make it harder to get coverage in one coat, but that would mean you thinned too much which would affect the integrity of the paint.


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## SalG

Whatever you do, NEVER combine latex paint with an epoxy-based paint. I wasted 3gallons of premium primer when I did just that ... :furious:


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## Florida11

SalG said:


> Whatever you do, NEVER mix latex with an epoxy-based paint. I wasted 3gallons of premium primer that way ...


:laughing: GTFO of here. Are you serious?


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## Workaholic

SalG said:


> Whatever you do, NEVER combine latex paint with an epoxy-based paint. I wasted 3gallons of premium primer when I did just that ... :furious:


You bumped a 4+ year old thread for that?


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## skyhook

Richard said:


> I dont thin and never will


THD thins it for me. :furious:


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## SalG

Workaholic said:


> You bumped a 4+ year old thread for that?


Four-year-old thread or new thread, for purposes of learning, what's the difference? The information is still relevant.

The messages on this board are archived for at least as many years because the information, at some time or another, will prove useful, as it did for me, four+ years after it was originally posted . . . lighten up . . .


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## katoman

For brush work I thin my latex with floetrol, which I understand is no longer available.

Anyone know of a replacement for it?


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## SalG

katoman said:


> For brush work I thin my latex with floetrol, which I understand is no longer available.
> 
> Anyone know of a replacement for it?


Floetrol unavailable? I purchased a bottle a few days ago . . .


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## katoman

SalG said:


> Floetrol unavailable? I purchased a bottle a few days ago . . .


Are you in the US? Might be a Canadian thing.


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## SalG

katoman said:


> Are you in the US? Might be a Canadian thing.


I'm in Southern California . . . got it either at Vista Paints or Lowes, can't remember which . . .


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## katoman

Rats, not only can you get the floetrol, you're not buried in snow. I'm so jealous. :laughing:


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## RCPainting

Jock, the painter, often would thin his paint so it would go further. So when the Church decided to do some deferred maintenance, Jock was able to put in the low bid, and got the job. As always, he thinned his paint way down with turpentine.

One day while he was up on the scaffolding -- the job almost finished -- he heard a horrendous clap of thunder, and the sky opened.

The downpour washed the thinned paint off the church and knocked Jock off his scaffold and onto the lawn among the gravestones and puddles of thinned and worthless paint.

Jock knew this was a warning from the Almighty, so he got on his knees and cried: “Oh, God! Forgive me! What should I do?”

And from the thunder, a mighty voice: “REPAINT! REPAINT! AND THIN NO MORE!”


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## SalG

RCPainting said:


> Jock, the painter, often would thin his paint so it would go further. So when the Church decided to do some deferred maintenance, Jock was able to put in the low bid, and got the job. As always, he thinned his paint way down with turpentine.
> 
> One day while he was up on the scaffolding -- the job almost finished -- he heard a horrendous clap of thunder, and the sky opened.
> 
> The downpour washed the thinned paint off the church and knocked Jock off his scaffold and onto the lawn among the gravestones and puddles of thinned and worthless paint.
> 
> Jock knew this was a warning from the Almighty, so he got on his knees and cried: “Oh, God! Forgive me! What should I do?”
> 
> And from the thunder, a mighty voice: “REPAINT! REPAINT! AND THIN NO MORE!”


Good one! :laughing:


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## Workaholic

SalG said:


> Four-year-old thread or new thread, for purposes of learning, what's the difference? The information is still relevant.
> 
> The messages on this board are archived for at least as many years because the information, at some time or another, will prove useful, as it did for me, four+ years after it was originally posted . . . lighten up . . .


Actually your post was no more on topic than mine was. I will try and take your advice and lighten up. :thumbsup:


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## SalG

Workaholic said:


> Actually your post was no more on topic than mine was. I will try and take your advice and lighten up. :thumbsup:


Actually, my post followed the momentum of the discussion when posters started talking about mixing a gallon of this with a gallon of that . . . to equate the level of irrelevance of my post with the level of irrelevance in your post is hardly a fair assessment. . . . :hammer:

Just because I have less than a handful of posts doesn't mean I should sit here quietly and allow you to badger me with disrespectful comments . . . I only take disrespectful comments from my friends  . . .

Well, in any case, in order to respect others who might be reading this thread and trying to find USEFUL information, this will be my final post on this matter between us . . . if you wish to communicate with me further, please PM me.


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## SalG

katoman said:


> Rats, not only can you get the floetrol, you're not buried in snow. I'm so jealous. :laughing:


Hey Katoman, if you send me a bottle of Viagra, I'll send you a bottle of Floetrol . . . either product can spice up anyone's sex life . . . :laughing:


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## Workaholic

SalG said:


> Actually, my post followed the momentum of the discussion when posters started talking about mixing a gallon of this with a gallon of that . . . to equate the level of irrelevance of my post with the level of irrelevance in your post is hardly a fair assessment. . . . :hammer:
> 
> Just because I have less than a handful of posts doesn't mean I should sit here quietly and allow you to badger me with disrespectful comments . . . I only take disrespectful comments from my friends  . . .
> 
> Well, in any case, in order to respect others who might be reading this thread and trying to find USEFUL information, this will be my final post on this matter between us . . . if you wish to communicate with me further, please PM me.


I think you should take your own advice and lighten up. There is an ignore feature here and you can add my name to it if you wish. 

I know we are splitting hairs here but I do not think I was badgering you or being disrespectful to you. I made a smart ass comment in my first post to you and then followed it up with another comment which I believe to be true. There is a lot of banter mixed into the threads Sal. 

Welcome to the paint section of CT Sal. :thumbsup:
Sounds like you learned a very good lesson that epoxy and latex do not mix.


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## SalG

Workaholic said:


> I think you should take your own advice and lighten up. There is an ignore feature here and you can add my name to it if you wish.
> 
> I know we are splitting hairs here but I do not think I was badgering you or being disrespectful to you. I made a smart ass comment in my first post to you and then followed it up with another comment which I believe to be true. There is a lot of banter mixed into the threads Sal.
> 
> Welcome to the paint section of CT Sal. :thumbsup:
> Sounds like you learned a very good lesson that epoxy and latex do not mix.


No hard feelings . . . I must have just been overly sensitive is all . . . you know, new kid on the block syndrome, I guess . . .


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## RCPainting

Workaholic said:


> Actually your post was no more on topic than mine was. I will try and take your advice and lighten up. :thumbsup:


Yah, lighten up Vanilla!


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## Paradigmzz

Hey Work, I never pictured you as a bully! More like Eeyore from Winnnie the Pooh...


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## Steve Richards

In apartments, I've mixed (ceiling) flat with (kitchen) semigloss, to get satin for the rest of the walls. Worked ok I thought.

<


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## katoman

So what are you using to thin your latex, other than water?


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## Steve Richards

I don't usually thin latex, Kato.

I'll add a little water on exteriors, when it's hot and the paint starts getting sticky.


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## THINKPAINTING

Seems like a few contractors who posted on this thread in 2006 are long gone... Here's a fact for ya 99% of small business's especially home improvement contractors go out of business in 2-5 years! The number one reason, don’t charge enough for there work.:sad: 

We thin paints when they need to be thinned even waterborne which we are not big fans of anyway. Days of old we had quite a process for thinning oils but man what a flawless finish it was. Pratt Lamberts-Cell-U-Tone Satin and BM Satin Impervo thinned with some paint thinner, pen, and Jap drier
on woodwork a thing of freaking beauty:thumbsup: nothing comes close to that oil finish nothing please spare me with that waterborne crap its alright but doesn’t hold up ask me how I know.


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## Steve Richards

I always thin oil.

Never tried Jap drier though.

something about the name...:no:


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## Terrorron

THINKPAINTING said:


> Seems like a few contractors who posted on this thread in 2006 are long gone... Here's a fact for ya 99% of small business's especially home improvement contractors go out of business in 2-5 years! The number one reason, don’t charge enough for there work.:sad:
> 
> We thin paints when they need to be thinned even waterborne which we are not big fans of anyway. Days of old we had quite a process for thinning oils but man what a flawless finish it was. Pratt Lamberts-Cell-U-Tone Satin and BM Satin Impervo thinned with some paint thinner, pen, and Jap drier
> on woodwork a thing of freaking beauty:thumbsup: *nothing comes close* to that *oil finish nothing* please spare me with that waterborne crap its alright but doesn’t hold up ask me how I know.


Pre-cat lacquer says hi...:whistling :jester:

Ron


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## THINKPAINTING

Terrorron said:


> Pre-cat lacquer says hi...:whistling :jester:
> 
> Ron


??????


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## katoman

Origionaly I got into thinning latex for spray work. That's how I got the Floetrol.

Then, when doing brush work I found if I added 10% floetrol I increased the open time and it made the latex better for brushing back into the wet edge. Also helps it "flow" to a level surface.

Just trying to find a replacement for the floetrol. As my painter here told me it was no longer available.


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## Workaholic

SalG said:


> No hard feelings . . . I must have just been overly sensitive is all . . . you know, new kid on the block syndrome, I guess . . .


No hard feelings either Sal. 


RCPainting said:


> Yah, lighten up Vanilla!


lol I am trying. 



Paradigmzz said:


> Hey Work, I never pictured you as a bully! More like Eeyore from Winnnie the Pooh...


I wear many hats. I think I might have to turn on the full blown bully to get rid of the Eeyore image. Funny I was picturing Plainpainter more as Eeyore.


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## Terrorron

THINKPAINTING said:


> ??????


As in...I'll shoot it with PX and a pre-cat NC top coat...and squash your _measly oil finish_ in terms of build and appearance...

....although sprayed oil does look pretty nice too. Just impossibly messy to deal with the overspray, unless it's a new home situation.

A _painter_ who's never heard of lacquer??? Seriously_...? :whistling_

(Just jerkin' yer chain):jester:

Cheers, Ron


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## Rent A Painter

steve-in-kville said:


> I've been experiementing lately with various paint viscosities. Some paints are a lot heavier than others (SW ProBlock... heaviest I've ever used) and benefit from thinning, especially when brushed on. Other topcoats are meant to be thinned, while others get trashy when water is added.
> 
> So I'm curious, is there a set formula you guys are using to thin paint, or is every can you apply different? What's your experience on this?
> 
> steve


 I never thin latex paints


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## katoman

For you guys who never thin latex. Try some with 5-10% floetrol in it and compare.

I bet you will continue to put in the floetrol. This is only for brush work.

Floetrol was made specifically for spray work. Unthined latex won't go through the gun.

I don't thin for roller work.


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## Terrorron

katoman said:


> Origionaly I got into thinning latex for spray work. That's how I got the Floetrol.
> 
> Then, when doing brush work I found if I added 10% floetrol I increased the open time and it made the latex better for brushing back into the wet edge. Also helps it "flow" to a level surface.
> 
> Just trying to find a replacement for the floetrol. As my painter here told me it was no longer available.


Akzo Nobel holds the rights in Canada, ICI distributes it...a quick phone-a-thon of ICI stores in your area should yield results. It's just an acrylic latex emulsion (and a popular product amongst those in the "know")...I can't see why nobody's selling it in the GTA???


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## katoman

Terrorron said:


> Akzo Nobel holds the rights in Canada, ICI distributes it...a quick phone-a-thon of ICI stores in your area should yield results. It's just an acrylic latex emulsion (and a popular product amongst those in the "know")...I can't see why nobody's selling it in the GTA???


Thanks, I did a google search and it is available. My dumb aXX painter don't know what he's talkin aboot. :laughing:


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## Terrorron

katoman said:


> Thanks, I did a google search and it is available. My *dumb aXX painter* don't know what he's talkin aboot. :laughing:


LMFAO!!! Figured as much...

Cheers, Ron


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## Rent A Painter

katoman said:


> Unthined latex won't go through the gun.


Really, I've been spraying more than 12 years like that, Just today I sprayed 15 gallons with my Graco 395


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## katoman

Rent A Painter said:


> Really, I've been spraying more than 12 years like that, Just today I sprayed 15 gallons with my Graco 395


Sorry, should have said, I spray HVLP for cabinets, not with the larger sprayers you guys use.


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## SalG

THINKPAINTING said:


> Seems like a few contractors who posted on this thread in 2006 are long gone... Here's a fact for ya 99% of small business's especially home improvement contractors go out of business in 2-5 years! The number one reason, don’t charge enough for there work.:sad:
> 
> We thin paints when they need to be thinned even waterborne which we are not big fans of anyway. Days of old we had quite a process for thinning oils but man what a flawless finish it was. Pratt Lamberts-Cell-U-Tone Satin and BM Satin Impervo thinned with some paint thinner, pen, and Jap drier
> on woodwork a thing of freaking beauty:thumbsup: nothing comes close to that oil finish nothing please spare me with that waterborne crap its alright but doesn’t hold up ask me how I know.


I hear ye! Nothing compares to oil-based paints and varnishes. Jap drier works well too, and of course, thin as needed with mineral spirits. 

Over the years I've come up with a theory about finishes . . . due to CARB and other environmental regulations, manufacturers have been forced to THICKEN their finishes - more solids and non volatiles so they can pass VOC limits . . . SO . . . I assume they'll leave the thinning to the end-user, since thinner products (i.e. Laquer Thinner, etc) are exempt by nature from thes restrictions . . . it's a "workaround" (wink-wink)

And oh yeah, water-borne finishes just aren't up to snuff yet. If you get lucky, you'll have a nice finish - but it's still finicky, unforgiving, inflexible, error-prone stuff, IMHO.


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## SalG

katoman said:


> Sorry, should have said, I spray HVLP for cabinets, not with the larger sprayers you guys use.


Same here! Turbinaire 3-Stage. Very nice when you want more control, are in a tight space, or just don't want to get the big artillery out. But even with a 1.5mm tip, I have to thin latex (with water and/or Floetrol) about 20-30%. Thin coats are good, the dry time in between is not-so-good . . . Need to get that 2.5mm tip . . . but not willing to fork out $90 USD to find out if all it will produce is bigger globs at a faster rate!


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