# From the "there are no stupid questions" files...



## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

K, so I have a small job coming up replacing a chimney chase cover,

http://www.contractortalk.com/f33/questions-chimney-cap-104682/

and this is definitely the right time to pick up the fall arrest gear.

Passed through a couple of threads,

http://www.contractortalk.com/f59/best-fall-protection-system-remodeling-98253/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f15/how-use-safety-line-99528/#post1218235

And I have one question. Do these reusable roof anchors get used on shingled roofs as well? OK, a couple of questions, if so how do you find the underlying truss? stud finder? and when you pull the anchor how best to deal with the holes?

Sometimes it just plain hurts being this green. :laughing:


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## Splinter hands (Aug 31, 2011)

If you are talking about the hinge type anchor, yes they do get used on shingled roofs also. As far as finding the truss I use the old tap tap with the hammer method, more times than not I find it the first time and not have to make any unnecessary holes. As far as dealing with the holes:whistling , I make sure I get some tar under all the shingles that are affected but I don't really like the method just have not figured out a better way yet. Hopefully one of the roofing guys will stop in and have a better method. The anchor goes at the peak. But you are probably already aware of that.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

I'm right there with ya bud, I was hoping someone would ask the stupid questions so I could get the answers. I'm been stepping up my $afety program a bit and would like to do more. Wanting to get the self retracting life lines next..

:stupid:


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Splinter hands said:


> If you are talking about the hinge type anchor, yes they do get used on shingled roofs also. As far as finding the truss I use the old tap tap with the hammer method, more times than not I find it the first time and not have to make any unnecessary holes. As far as dealing with the holes:whistling , I make sure I get some tar under all the shingles that are affected but I don't really like the method just have not figured out a better way yet. Hopefully one of the roofing guys will stop in and have a better method. The anchor goes at the peak. But you are probably already aware of that.


I'd deal with them just the same as filling the holes that we make when setting up the pick and poles. Lift the shingle and shoot the holes full of tar, then apply a bit of tar on the top of the holes, lay a flat piece of step flashing on top of that, a bit more tar and lay the shingle back down.


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## Splinter hands (Aug 31, 2011)

WildWill said:


> I'd deal with them just the same as filling the holes that we make when setting up the pick and poles. Lift the shingle and shoot the holes full of tar, then apply a bit of tar on the top of the holes, lay a flat piece of step flashing on top of that, a bit more tar and lay the shingle back down.


That is what I do except without the step flashing. I think I will start using it though after you mentioning it, it adds a little more protection that way. Thanks WildWill:thumbsup:


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

Thanks gents, I wish one of the roofers would drop in with a cleaner solution also. Putting holes in a perfectly fine roof seems a little counter-intuitive to me. :blink:

Thanks for the detail on treating the holes WW, I'll adopt it as well.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

FWIW.... instead of a blackjack or roofing "tar" type product, I'd suggest using Geocel's 2300 tri-polymer sealants when filling any holes and re-adhering shingles. The tri-polymer sealants are a much better product than roofing tar which can get brittle and crack after a few years.


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