# Table Saw Question



## mtp (Feb 13, 2005)

new blade, shorter 12 guage cord, square the fence


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## GriffDecker (Nov 20, 2005)

I build quite a bit of furniture in my spare time and have a cabinet saw, then got a portable table saw for job sites. No matter how much you pay, they ain't pretty. They do pull lots of amps because the motors are smaller than stationary saws.

My biggest suggestion is to use wedges when you run a board thru your saw. I've found that wet wood will turn back in towards itself after you run it through the table saw, which causes the blade to get pinched between the wood. Once you get the beginning of the board past the blade, place a shim at the end of it to keep the kerf from closing back up.


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## firemike (Dec 11, 2005)

I realize that this is an older thread, but this may help someone down the line.

In most homes built since the early 70's the kitchen counter and laundry circuits are 20 amp circuits- required that way by code. I always try to get my power for the power-hungry tools (table saw, compressor, etc.) from those sources. 

The outdoor and garage plugs were, for may years, tied on to whatever circuit happened to be close, and many electricians tied them on with the bathroom plugs so they could use the bathroom GFI to protect the garage or outdoor plugs (called downstreaming). Saves having to buy a few GFI plugs that way. That is why when a garage or outside plug doesn't work, you generally have to go into a bathroom to reset it.

New code requires bathrooms to be on a seperate 20 amp circuit, to handle the 2000 watt pl;us hairdryers they have nowdays. So there is another source of a heavier circuit. Use at lease a 12 guage cord, and keep it as short as possible, and you will have less "nusience trips" of the breaker.


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## nadonailer (Nov 15, 2005)

Try a feather board also - it will keep the workpiece strictly paralllel to to the blade and reduce the saw motor binding.


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## dayspring (Mar 4, 2006)

Rockler has a splitter that will help with the wood binding the blade. Hate it when that happens.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10889


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## erik edlund (Mar 11, 2006)

*in re Table saw question*

Hey guys,

New member, 03/2006. Tom R., others have good points.

1. Toe out your outfeed <1/32", and align the roller stands on the outfeed, or a smart helper.
2. Additional tools ('pressors, lights, etc.) on diff circuits if you can, else shut them down temporarily.
3. Use a carbide blade with fewer teeth on ALL your saws. No kidding, I worked with a GC who used a 60 tooth Freund blade on a Dewalt for rough cross/rip cuts... it's simply not justified- change out your blades for the right purpose, i.e., fine blades for finish work only.
4. Slow and smooth feed- like they say, listen to the sound- save your motor, and your blades.

Hope it helps,


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## troubleseeker (Sep 24, 2006)

I find this problem almost always related to a dull blade, out of parallel fence (a common nuisance with all but the most top end portables) or someone on the job having plugged into what I consider an undersize ext. cord. I never use anything smaller than 12 ga on any of my tools, as most pro grade tools pull 13 to 15 amps. Also they do not turn a thick tooth blade very well--stay with a decent quality thin kerf.


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## chuckwood (Oct 19, 2006)

If you're running a 10 inch blade you'll get faster feed rates -- therefore less amp draw -- if you use a 24-30 tooth flat top grind (FTG) blade. This produces somewhat rough cuts, but if you're only doing production rips, it's better than a cleaner ripping 40 tooth ATB blade.

And of course, a thin kerf blade puts a smaller demand on the motor than a standard kerf blade.


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## BradScarpenter (Oct 19, 2006)

Bees wax on a table saw blade? Rpm's are too high, no need. Basically for handsaws with low moisture content. It's usually over used even with this purpose. Usually have some somewhere though just to scuff the teeth with a bit, even for protecting chisel tips for storage. 

I like to treat a table saw in the same fashion as a skillsaw, they both have the same ability, aside from the table saw acting as a stationery jig of sorts. Today the free hand skillsaw with it's built in clutch for anti- kick is safer than the table saw as far as blade to wood exceptance. With a new table saw I like to make my own table plate that encompasses the blade area for each type of blade and wood to be cut. The manufactured ones are usually recessed more than I am comfortable with, and are made for general purpose cutting. General purpose is for whatever you want to throw into it and not for precision cutting. A good table saw that is part of our life has no need to check the blade for square like the old throw around skillsaw's did. Have three or four different gauged push sticks available for each type and size of wood and keep them between ten and sixteen inches in length depending on the size of material used, shortest for larger material. Air off the undercarriage every 100 lineal ft. of material or so to keep away possible underlying flying debris, that will most certainly prolong the motor life and switch componants. Unlike the full sized shop types, on site tablesaws are a dime a dozen, don't hesitate to huck it for a new one and nearly the same for a blade, for what they do for you, they are worth the "new" accurate procision to guarantee your work to be the same. The old belt driven we would run to the ground like an old truck and push everything we could through it as fast as possible, binding or not. The motorized ones today with there aluminum alloys are nearly as tender as a jigsaw and the blade is the most crucial componant. Most all of the recommendations stated are in the manual and the manual is again for general purpose use. Set the tool to it's application, don't just apply the application to the tool.


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## skymaster (Oct 23, 2006)

Decks; I totally agree with everything said, only thing I would like to ask/add is what type of blade r u using? If you are not using a dedicated rip blade that will definaetly contribute to ur problem. You do not want to be using a "combo" type blade and a real second on Thin Kerf blades, portable saws do not have the power to drive a full thick (1/8) kerf blade.
Jack


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## Fence & Deck (Jan 23, 2006)

Terry, all my guys have a powerbar with a built in trip. That way, you'll only blow your own fuse, and not have to worry about the customer's house and them not being home.


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