# Looking for ideas how to drywall painted block walls.



## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

I have a customer that wants 2 125'X8' hallway walls redone to hide the semi-gloss painted exposed block walls in his hotel in a cost effective way. His idea is to use 1/2" drywall and use mud to act as the glue to bond the sheets to the wall then use concrete nails to hold in place then tape the joints out and to finish around the metal door frames just caulk around them to finish it and same for where it meets t-bar at ceiling. I see Overanilyze skimmed a block hallway but his inbox his full I wanted to ask him if the walls were painted already , we all know mudding over painted surfaces end up with pin holes-fisheyes which are a pain to get rid of. So any ideas??


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

Rather than drywall mud, I suggest that you use glue (like Liquid Nails) and 1/4 drywall.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

IanB said:


> I have a customer that wants 2 125'X8' hallway walls redone to hide the semi-gloss painted exposed block walls in his hotel in a cost effective way. His idea is to use 1/2" drywall and use mud to act as the glue to bond the sheets to the wall then use concrete nails to hold in place then tape


That's the dumbest thing I might have ever heard.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

I agree jls that's why i'm looking for better options, the only time I have used mud to bond drywall was in doing borders in ceilings then I would still screw it off or doing cove but still I have to screw it off. I don't like any part of it even concrete nails will rust and show eventually. I get the feeling this guy wants it done cheap as possible I don't like doing work like that but a job is a job so im looking for better ideas, I forgot to mention he wants a splatter knockdown finish also so the finish only needs to be done for that with or with or out boarding.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

So framing it out is out of the question. Why not just coat the block stucco


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

I don't know what you mean by "coat the block stucco" you mean just skim masonry mud over semi-gloss paint? I do stucco to but ive never done it over a painted block wall I would have to use mesh and that may be a option also but sounds costly.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

I wouldn't use 1/4". Maybe more like 3/8" (or 1/2"). Liquid nail the hell out of it and use 1 1/4" concrete round nails to secure it until the glue dries. Just leave the nails in, coat, and texture.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

^^ that's a good idea and prob the most feasible so far.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

IanB said:


> ^^ that's a good idea and prob the most feasible so far.


I've done it that way a couple times. I never had a call back. I wish I could say I have been back to check it out but I haven't. But knowing most of our customers they would be letting us know if something went wrong.


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## ejsmgmt (Nov 29, 2012)

Screw 1 by material to to block every 16 inches and then put up 1/2 drywall.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

ejsmgmt said:


> Screw 1 by material to to block every 16 inches and then put up 1/2 drywall.


I'm not a drywall person, but this seems to be the best solution. You'll spend about the same or a little more for the 1X's than you would for all of that glue right? Plus, you would then end up with a more traditional finishing situation that would go quicker and thus, be more cost effective.

Sometimes, the "right" way to do something, is also the more cost effective yes?

Just sayin.... :whistling


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

ejsmgmt said:


> Screw 1 by material to to block every 16 inches and then put up 1/2 drywall.


Bingo.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Other than the method described in the opening post, I see no "right" or "wrong" way to do it in this thread so far. Just different ways.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

CrpntrFrk said:


> Other than the method described in the opening post, I see no "right" or "wrong" way to do it in this thread so far. Just different ways.


Sorry.... I didn't mean that it was right or wrong I guess - than to frame it out and install it in a more "traditional" way would be just as cost effective because it was more familiar and thus faster. Plus, I figured you would need a whole bunch of adheasive, which would cost out about the same as or close to the 1X's.

Sorry.... poor choice of words. My bad.... :sad:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

CompleteW&D said:


> Sorry.... I didn't mean that it was right or wrong I guess - than to frame it out and install it in a more "traditional" way would be just as cost effective because it was more familiar and thus faster. Plus, I figured you would need a whole bunch of adheasive, which would cost out about the same as or close to the 1X's.
> 
> Sorry.... poor choice of words. My bad.... :sad:


:laughing:It's hard to read emotion through written word sometimes but I wasn't offended. You gave a very tried and true method and I feel it is a good method. 

I know I need to use more of these....:laughing::whistling:thumbup::jester:


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

They make drywall track for a reason right?


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Thanks for all the input they are all good! The only thing that concerns me about doing 1X's then 1/2" drywall is the metal trim is prob only maybe 1 " so 1 1/2" I would have to bead around the doors with L edge I will have to go back and check that out, and glueing drywall is a good idea I just wonder how many tubes ill have to use 1 small tube of [email protected] sheet? That can get costly also im looking at roughly 80 12 fter's so 80 tubes of [email protected] 8 bucks a pop 640 bucks alone, you guys ever get headaches pricing stuff out lol im getting one now lol with enough input there will be a solution ive been working on this for a while I just got back from working up in the arctic (Nanuvit) -65 weather, 8 feet of ice on the lake man that's another horror story lol but thanx for the ideas there all good!


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

IanB said:


> Thanks for all the input they are all good! The only thing that concerns me about doing 1X's then 1/2" drywall is the metal trim is prob only maybe 1 " so 1 1/2" I would have to bead around the doors with L edge I will have to go back and check that out, and glueing drywall is a good idea I just wonder how many tubes ill have to use 1 small tube of [email protected] sheet? That can get costly also im looking at roughly 80 12 fter's so 80 tubes of [email protected] 8 bucks a pop 640 bucks alone, you guys ever get headaches pricing stuff out lol im getting one now lol with enough input there will be a solution ive been working on this for a while I just got back from working up in the arctic (Nanuvit) -65 weather, 8 feet of ice on the lake man that's another horror story lol but thanx for the ideas there all good!


Use spray foam adhesive, they have some made for adhering drywall but I'm sure the subfloor stuff would work fine. It's 20$ for a big can but you get miles out of single can, and the gun allows you to effortlessly pull a perfect bead.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

"Use spray foam adhesive" That's interesting! that stuff does stick to anything usually my hands and cloths lol im assuming its a low expansion spray ill look into that next time im at the lumber yard thanx!


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

I built a little block wall with that spray foam once. Two hours later we wanted to take some off.......you would break the block before you got them to separate.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Man I wish my dad was still around he was a Mason by trade he woulda had a good laugh then run out to garage and tried that!


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

IanB said:


> "Use spray foam adhesive" That's interesting! that stuff does stick to anything usually my hands and cloths lol im assuming its a low expansion spray ill look into that next time im at the lumber yard thanx!


I have a can here that says it's equal to 16 tubes of normal adhesive. The one I have is DOW Enerbond, says it's good for drywall.


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Don't know about the cost but there is a product call FibraFuse comes in 36" wide rolls and is used to skim rough walls. Attach with mud then finish coat, and sand.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

ToolNut said:


> Don't know about the cost but there is a product call FibraFuse comes in 36" wide rolls and is used to skim rough walls. Attach with mud then finish coat, and sand.


Ok thanx ill look into that stuff, i'm starting work in Winnipeg today boarding and taping a reno'ed whore house from the 50's 60's so there are lot more bigger lumber yards I can get access to check into all these products you people have talked about.


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## endo_alley (Apr 9, 2013)

In such situations we might try EIFS 38" matting embedded in quick set or durabond setting joint mud. Trowel fairly loose mixed mud onto wall about 1/8" thick. Press the mesh onto the fresh compound and cut to length at edges and overlaps using a utility knife. Immediately press the compound out with a trowel or drywall blade. Leave the compound and mesh as free from imperfections as possible. When the mud has dried lightly sand and apply a skim coat of mud. When this has dried it may be decorated or further smoothed as desired.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Surfacing paper used to be used for this type of thing - roll on mud, roll on paper, smooth.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Thinset 1/2 green board to it. Works great!


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

weve done this many times. not this size but we do it. and this is done to plan not invented. works very well. fast and easy.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

jlsconstruction said:


> That's the dumbest thing I might have ever heard.


Guess I do a lot of dumb things.


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## JackP23 (Jan 1, 2013)

hdavis said:


> Surfacing paper used to be used for this type of thing - roll on mud, roll on paper, smooth.


I'm going say a bad word so some of you guys might want to close your eyes.......what about a very heavy (maybe even grass cloth) wallpaper.
:no:

Dido on the fibafuse.....lotsa labor.:thumbup:


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

1/2 inch fibafome to block wall then 1/2 drywall with tapcon screws ...mud and paint


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

Good thread because it shows how many different ways there are to skin this cat. I was thinking 1x with some pl premium (sausage tubes are cheaper than the small ones, btw) and ramsets to hold them up til that cures.
Then I thought about parging the wall.
Then I thought about plaster-weld and a joint compound skimcoat over that. I've done this over stucco and it worked great.
Then I saw Inner's post and liked that idea even more.
It'll probably come down to whatever you feel most confident doing with your experience and tools. Let us know how it works out.


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## ryanshull (Nov 1, 2012)

icerock drywall said:


> 1/2 inch fibafome to block wall then 1/2 drywall with tapcon screws ...mud and paint


I don't know about" fibafome", but you can get tapcon screws with a tapered head and torx drive, and go directly to the block wall. I can only imagine they don't want to loose much width in the hallway.

You can hang it all using just a couple screws per sheet, then come back through and drill a buttload of holes and run the rest of the screws in.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

ryanshull said:


> I don't know about" fibafome", but you can get tapcon screws with a tapered head and torx drive, and go directly to the block wall. I can only imagine they don't want to loose much width in the hallway.
> 
> You can hang it all using just a couple screws per sheet, then come back through and drill a buttload of holes and run the rest of the screws in.


I would never put sheetrock on blocks with out a vaper ...so fome is the best:clap:


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## ryanshull (Nov 1, 2012)

icerock drywall said:


> I would never put sheetrock on blocks with out a vaper ...so fome is the best:clap:


A vaper?
Educate me.


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## ryanshull (Nov 1, 2012)

ryanshull said:


> A vaper?
> Educate me.


I've googled fibafome, and can find nothing. What is it?


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

icerock drywall said:


> I would never put sheetrock on blocks with out a vaper ...so fome is the best:clap:


 They are interior block walls and been there for 30 yrs.


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## ryanshull (Nov 1, 2012)

IanB said:


> They are interior block walls and been there for 30 yrs.


No need for a vapor barrior then, right?


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Wash the walls with a tsp solution. Skim away with dura bond. The tsp will clean and de-gloss the painted surface. Pre-fill all block joints one day. The next day, do a nice even skim coat. Sand, point up, and get paid. Use a planex or the porter cable sander to save time and dust!


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

ryanshull said:


> No need for a vapor barrior then, right?


No they are just interior block walls in a hotel hallway.


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