# Exterior Tile



## lshomesolutions (Jul 19, 2008)

Have a homeowner that wants to install an exterior tile on a patio. Area is about 900sqft. We are in central Texas. We install a large amount of tile flooring and showers but all are indoors. I just want to make sure I cover myself and customer when making recomendations.

Waterproofer on top of slab as moisture barrier?
Flexbond mortar?
Epoxy grout?

Your Help is appreciated


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Noble Deck
Kerabond/Keralastic
QuartzLock 2


any vertical thrust of that slab and the tile is toast anyway
expansion joints? :whistling


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## lshomesolutions (Jul 19, 2008)

The slab has been there for 20 yrs nothing but normal hairlines. Would you recommend not laying tile outside?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Tile outdoors is fine. Make sure the tile itself is rated for exterior use.


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## lshomesolutions (Jul 19, 2008)

So I take it reguard is out of the picture?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

You could use RedGard. I wouldn't. That's just preference.


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## lshomesolutions (Jul 19, 2008)

Angus thanks for your help. I'll start gathering the price information


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

forget redguard. use Noble deck. I like Laticrete platinum (254?) to set. 

Angus, is quartzlock 2 UV stable? And some of the epoxy grouts aren't. I use Mapie HRT grout.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Gary, it _is _UV stable!

What is Mapei HRT? Never heard of it.


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

*Tile selection and colour*

What is the size and colour of the tile?

What is the measurements of the concrete slab?

Angus mentions expansion joints.... this is key outside and with large installs...


A thinset that offers a little flexibility is a good idea! Look into Mortar Fatigue and you will see why.

JW


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## lshomesolutions (Jul 19, 2008)

Size of tile they want is 24x24. Slab is about 30x30. The slab has no expansion joints. We are in central texas. 

House is on near the river. The whole house sits on concrete piers 15' in the air. The area that we will be tiling is under the house. This slab does have beams in it


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

If there are no actual expansion joints in the slab (not even relief joints???), you should still drop a soft joint in the tile install. Maybe right down both center lines.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

I'm in agreement with Angus and John. Angus would you recommend covering that QuartzLock for 7 days to insure it doesn't get rained on?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Outdoor installations must be protected from moisture (rain) for 7 days. If rain is forecast within 7 days, protect by tenting the grouted area (at least 1 foot above surface).


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

angus242 said:


> Outdoor installations must be protected from moisture (rain) for 7 days. If rain is forecast within 7 days, protect by tenting the grouted area (at least 1 foot above surface).


Gotcha :thumbsup:


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

That would be Ultracolor Plus with HCT by Mapei. As explained to me by my rep, epoxy might yellow under intense UV.


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## assets444 (Aug 20, 2010)




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## Bill_Vincent (Apr 6, 2005)

Expansion joints should be atleast every 12 feet, and one thing everyone else has left out (from what I see) is that the surface of the tile should be pitched the same as a shower pan-- 1/4" per linear foot-- AWAY from the house, if it's attached. If not, it can go in multiple directions to cut down on the drop in elevation.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

I have a slate project coming up. It is a patio/balcony over occupied space. The slate layout calls for 12x12 borders with diagonal 16x16 center field like pic below. Total 500sq ft. job area shape: balcony wraps around structure like a bay window and a 15x 18 square. Below pic shows from inside-taken 2 years ago when I did slate to this octagonal area and wood flooring to give you an idea.
The house has a great stone exterior (see below pic) and stones goes on the walls all the way to slab,planning to cut them off at the bottom and slide the slate under.
I am convinced to go with acid wash+noble deck membrane+keralastic and proper grout(not decided yet).
This is a addition to original house so this 15 x 18 area, like half is occupied space and other is filled soil, so there is a 1/4" crack temp filled with sealant now.
Keep in mind here in Austin we get occasional(5-10 times/year) just below freezing temp.
Question is if I still need expansion joint? what should I do for the crack?
Thanks


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Few things.
1) I would not acid wash. Scarify or shot blast but don't use acid. 
2) Make sure you flash where the patio meets the house. (If it actually does)
3) I'd use an actual expansion joint over the crack. Yes it may screw with your design but you cannot help that. The 2 sides are going to move separately and unless you want a crack in the finished floor, expansion joint it is. There are various version of Dilex but something along the lines of this is what I'm talking about:

http://www.schluter.com/4_18_dilex_akws.aspx

Yes to Noble Deck.
Yes to Kerabond/Keralastic.
Suggest QuartzLock 2 for the grout. It is UV stable and will resist cracking better than any other grout I know of.


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## Bill_Vincent (Apr 6, 2005)

> Suggest QuartzLock 2 for the grout. It is UV stable and will resist cracking better than any other grout I know of.


Except maybe Spectralock.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I think this is one area where QuartzLock does, in fact, surpass SpectraLOCK. 

QL compressive strength is higher than SL. However, the linear shrinkage of QL is about 4 times better than SL. That's where I think QL shines!

SL's data sheet flat out says colors may lighten or darken from UV exposure. QL will not.

And since I'm on a SL tear laughing, did you know Laticrete suggests 10 days to cure before introducing water in certain applications? No more bashing QL and its 7 day cure!


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## Bill_Vincent (Apr 6, 2005)

> did you know Laticrete suggests 10 days to cure before introducing water in certain applications?


That's actually the first I've heard of it. I also never heard of problems from UV exposure, but that's not to say it doesn't happen.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

angus242 said:


> Few things.
> 1) I would not acid wash. Scarify or shot blast but don't use acid.
> 2) Make sure you flash where the patio meets the house. (If it actually does)
> 3) I'd use an actual expansion joint over the crack. Yes it may screw with your design but you cannot help that. The 2 sides are going to move separately and unless you want a crack in the finished floor, expansion joint it is. There are various version of Dilex but something along the lines of this is what I'm talking about:
> ...


Thanks angus, 
The patio slab meets the stone walls.what you mean to flash...The client does not want any other look but the stone walls to meet the slate. Should I use some type of U-channel before I slide the slate under the undercut stone?
Got a question about the expansion joint that you have pointed out.
Does it need something under or it comes with it. In website installation instructions it does not mention anything about, but the pic and illustration both show something below the fins of joint. What is that? I can imagine that I need to cut and place something (fiberglass?-silicon?sealant?) on that crack, what that would be the best?Tnks.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

astor said:


> Thanks angus,
> The patio slab meets the stone walls.what you mean to flash...The client does not want any other look but the stone walls to meet the slate. Should I use some type of U-channel before I slide the slate under the undercut stone?


I suggest flashing because keeping moisture from getting under the slab and then dealing with freeze/thaw can heave the tile.




astor said:


> Does it need something under or it comes with it. In website installation instructions it does not mention anything about, but the pic and illustration both show something below the fins of joint. What is that? I can imagine that I need to cut and place something (fiberglass?-silicon?sealant?) on that crack, what that would be the best?Tnks.


The lines under the profile you are asking about is an expansion joint in the slab. The profile bridges it. If the 2 sides of the slab separate, the profile expands with it.

Make sense?


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