# Window Glazing



## jmarcin (Aug 5, 2008)

I have a bunch of windows at a job that need to be reglazed. I have seen some products that are glazing in a caulk tube and then i have also heard others say that you could just go ahead and use a paintable silicone in place of the glazing. anyone have any tips or suggestions?

Thanks

jeff


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

I glaze about 100 windows a year, don't use anything but actual glaze in a tub. The caulk tubes of glaze are a joke. IMO they don't last nearly as long.

Roll it up in your hand like a snake more even the better.
place on a CLEAN window and sash. I use an angled putty knife and drag it across the window forcing it into the corner.

Cole


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## MAD Renovations (Nov 18, 2007)

Cole82 said:


> I glaze about 100 windows a year, don't use anything but actual glaze in a tub. The caulk tubes of glaze are a joke. IMO they don't last nearly as long.
> 
> Roll it up in your hand like a snake more even the better.
> place on a CLEAN window and sash. I use an angled putty knife and drag it across the window forcing it into the corner.
> ...


This is the only way I do it!!:thumbsup:


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## gallerytungsten (Jul 5, 2007)

I like to use the stuff in a tube for bedding the glass against the wood. It's softer and you can squish the glass down without worrying about breaking it. Then the oil glaze on the exposed side.


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## J Rhino (Jun 3, 2010)

Tattoo said:


> This is the only way I do it!!:thumbsup:


Same here!


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## MAULEMALL (May 16, 2010)

Cole82 said:


> I glaze about 100 windows a year, don't use anything but actual glaze in a tub. The caulk tubes of glaze are a joke. IMO they don't last nearly as long.
> 
> Roll it up in your hand like a snake more even the better.
> place on a CLEAN window and sash. I use an angled putty knife and drag it across the window forcing it into the corner.
> ...


 You don't prime your sash??:whistling


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

So how long do all of you 
"compound only" guys wait
before you paint over it?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Isn't glazing still oil based? You should be oil priming your sash bead before glazing.


Neo, isn't it like one week recommended dry time before painting?


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Isn't glazing still oil based? You should be oil priming your sash bead before glazing.
> 
> 
> Neo, isn't it like one week recommended dry time before painting?


That's what they say.
I can never get by with less than
48-72 hours to coat with latex.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

The few windows I have glazed, I have also used the tub of glaze and work it in with a small putty knife......... dipped in mineral spirits. I have used a 5-1 in a pinch.

The waiting to paint is a little aggravating.


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## Mellison (Aug 3, 2008)

J Rhino said:


> Same here!


 
Ditto.


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## chris n (Oct 14, 2003)

Slow oil prime BEFORE and AFTER glazing:whistling. This is not a blow and go operation.:w00t:


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

I like the glazing caulking tubes. Takes a little getting used to but you can get a good looking joint pretty easy.


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## Dorman Painting (May 2, 2006)

We've only done about five or six reglazing jobs in the twelve or so years in business. You just don't see these types of windows anymore, HO are spending their money on replacements. 

However, I've done two jobs in my family alone. My dad and sister both own 1960's style ranches with the old muntin windows/double hung sashes etc. We used the Dap glazing, put it into a caulking gun and go. It's a little easier than working out of a tub of glaze, and my jobs are still looking decent after 8years. We also did some really old single hung sashes in this local church with the Dap glaze in a tube and it still looks good 7 years later. The only thing I can't really do is get the exact sharp looking lines and edges with the glazing in a tube. I have to almost finger it into place and it sometimes isn't as precise as the original way of rolling it into a snake and tooling it off.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

I broke a low-e sealed wood double hung window. It was not repairable had to order a new sash for $280.00. What a racket; non fixable windows.


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## NaeGan (Sep 8, 2009)

I just got done reglazing 16 windows and the wood storms for a 1928 Craftsman. I hadn't done it for awhile. This thread was helpful because I had to paint them also. The glazing is definitely not cured in 24 hrs. This house still had wood storm doors on it. After doing about half of the glazing I had to go back and redo some of it because I decided it was sub par. To be honest, I really enjoyed it after awhile. When you don't get to do it very often its a novelty. The wood had triple pane glass and two wood panels that were tapered like an interior door. I loved painting those two doors. It made me realize how much I love my job.


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## bauler (Nov 10, 2006)

Just as cole82 said. Back in the day I worked in a glass shop, did "hackouts" all the time. Use Dap 33 for wood sash, 1033 for metal. When you re-putty a window about all you can do is to remove the loose stuff and either putty up to the old, or go over the old. If the old putty is really hard and you try to get it all out you'll probably break the glass. It takes some practice. Its all in the angle, the pressure and the consistency of the putty.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Hope this is not a double post. I lost one when I hit the home button intead of the spell check.

Anyway, you guys never use a heat gun to soften old glazing? I have cracked windows tring to get that old hard stuff off.


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