# Tricks of the Trade



## Journeyman T (Feb 21, 2007)

*Tricks of the Trade​*I’m posting this in general discussion, because I want to include tricks from several trades:

_Carpentry_
Including _Decks & Fencing_, _Finish Carpentry_, and _Framing_.
_Flooring_
Not only _Ceramic & Stone Tile_, but _Wood & Vinyl Tile_ as well.
_Drywall_
_Roofing_
_Windows, Siding & Doors_
_Excavation & Site Work_
_Residential & Commercial Construction_
_Remodeling_
Please restrict your posts to actual _*building tricks only*_.:thumbsup: This excludes tips on business, as well as tips on “were to get the best deal on whatever.”

Here’s an example of what I mean:
* 
Framing:​* 
To speed the removal of door plates, wait until framing is complete before installing the jack studs. Then cut the plates off with a circular saw set a 1 - ½” depth, using the king studs as a guide.


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## reveivl (May 29, 2005)

I cut the door plates about 1/2 way through from underneath during layout, come back later and it takes two strokes with a saw and no chance of hitting the concrete or sub.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

I blunt the metal tips on my "Cat-of-nine-tails" so as not to so seriously injure my guys that they are unable to work.


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## Journeyman T (Feb 21, 2007)

Speaking of blunting tips, blunting nail tips can prevent splitting. Simply blunt the point of the nail with a hammer before driving it into the wood.


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## wackman (Nov 14, 2005)

Journeyman T said:


> Speaking of blunting tips, blunting nail tips can prevent splitting. Simply blunt the point of the nail with a hammer before driving it into the wood.


Heard that years ago when I was an apprentice, along with running it through your hair to "grease it", and neither seemed to work any better than normal for me. I'd watch all these apprentices blunting the point or rubbing 16d on their head like fools and decided we were being hazed.


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## dirt diggler (May 14, 2006)

Journeyman T said:


> Speaking of blunting tips, blunting nail tips can prevent splitting. Simply blunt the point of the nail with a hammer before driving it into the wood.


no kidding!?

makes sense more i think about it

good tip - i will try that


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## TempestV (Feb 3, 2007)

wackman said:


> Heard that years ago when I was an apprentice, along with running it through your hair to "grease it", and neither seemed to work any better than normal for me. I'd watch all these apprentices blunting the point or rubbing 16d on their head like fools and decided we were being hazed.


most of the time when your hands are sweaty, the sweat on your hands will do the same thing. and Blunting/lubricating does work to keep nails from spliting the wood.


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## TempestV (Feb 3, 2007)

pushing a nail into the female end of an air hose to push on the air valve makes a great easy to carry blow nozzle for blowing sawdust off a floor or whatever.

(rather old, but I thought the blunted nails were too) the back of your tape is a great place to write your cut list- the pencil rubs off with a smuge of your finger

tacking the top and bottom plates of a wall together with 8's when cutting them to length and doing layout keeps them identical


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## Journeyman T (Feb 21, 2007)

The best way to lubricate fasteners is with either bee’s wax, or Akempucky.


Jamestown Distributors / McFeely's


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## TempestV (Feb 3, 2007)

Journeyman T said:


> The best way to lubricate fasteners is with either bee’s wax, or Akempucky.
> 
> 
> Jamestown Distributors / McFeely's


I've heard of carpenters hollowing out a cavity in the base of their hammer handle to press some bee's wax into for that purpose


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## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

I doubt it's new to anyone, but when trying to set deck joists alone I'll tack a 16 to the top of the board at the opposite end and bend it over. It allows me to nail off my end while the opposite hangs from the rim joist. The easiest is to use joist hangers of course, but a neat trick to keep up your sleeve anyway.

I'll use your tips tempestv...thanks!


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Blunting nail points causes them to crush the wood instead of split it. My Grandfather taught me that when I was 5, and I still do it on trim and thin wood.

My tip:

On new construction, brick or rock, immediately after washdown (once it dries, of course), use a penetrating sealer on the bottom 2'. This will prevent splash-back stains from the dirt.


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## supercrew (May 15, 2006)

reveivl said:


> I cut the door plates about 1/2 way through from underneath during layout, come back later and it takes two strokes with a saw and no chance of hitting the concrete or sub.


or just cut the plate at the king and run the jack to the subfloor, makes for a stronger opening.

slap staple the sill seal to the bottom to the green plate, keeps it in place.

when using TGI,s run the furthest walls rim board first, lay your joist on layout, then snap a line across the front wall to length and then cut all TGI's at once..(major time saver)


before sheathing the wall, mark the bottom n top of the inside jacks on the plates, mark the plywood top n bottom when you get there, snap a square, cut, nail, perfect opening..

when filling a new chalk line, pull out a "normal" amount of line...then fill.

when siding a gable....run a piece level with the siding and another up the rake to create your angle(pattern)

when siding a gable...Always snap the soffit line from the peak to the birdbox so the pattern works....

when sidin ANY wall, ALWAY measure the total length 1st and do the math so you dont end with a 1' piece.

Never work for anyone that you have heard say "im the person who pays you".
:blink: 

oh yeah...when finding a center, use 2 tapes and just find the corresponding marks, faster than a caculator and no double checking.

:laughing: when plumbing...the stuff runs downhill.

ok im done.:clap:


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## dreamwvr (Mar 4, 2007)

*Wood To Concrete Cheap*

TO ATTACH WOOD TO CONCRETE DRILL THROUGH BOARD AND INTO CONCRETE WITH A 3/I6 BIT, INSERT A PIECE OF TIE WIRE, THEN HAMMER IN A 16D DOUBLE HEAD NAIL. VERY STRONG AND PULLS OUT WITH HAMMER OR BAR. I USE THIS ALL THE TIME IN FORMWORK. SPACE ABOUT 12 TO 18 INCHES. 2 8D NAILS WORK WELL 2.:ninja:


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

Never adjust your seat whiie braking or accelerating.


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## ajbackhoe (Nov 26, 2006)

*Septic system pipes*

When setting pipes in your drainfield, set grade stacks dead center in the trench and use plumbing strap to fasten the pipe to the top of the stake every 10 feet. Then put your stone in, pipes stay on grade and on center. Works great for us guys that do it alone.

Alan


aoconstruction.net


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## wackman (Nov 14, 2005)

Tscarborough said:


> Blunting nail points causes them to crush the wood instead of split it. My Grandfather taught me that when I was 5, and I still do it on trim and thin wood.


I'll have to give this trick another try then, I't been a long time and I've never seen anyone do it except that first time I was told about it.

Heres a good one: When removing trim that is attached with casing nails and you need to put it back on, to keep from having pry marks or cats paw crushes use a punch (about 1/8" wide and 2" long) to just push the nail all the way through. Works great on cedar and other soft woods.


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## Rich Turley (Apr 9, 2005)

wackman said:


> Heres a good one: When removing trim that is attached with casing nails and you need to put it back on, to keep from having pry marks or cats paw crushes use a punch (about 1/8" wide and 2" long) to just push the nail all the way through. Works great on cedar and other soft woods.


Just pull the nail from the backside. No larger opening from the punch and if the holes have been filled it leaves them filled, then you can nail in a different spot, which is ideal anyway.

Rich


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## TempestV (Feb 3, 2007)

To expand on Rich's comment- a pair of channel locks works wonderfully for this task


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Since we are posting tips that some of us think of as well known but not necessarily so in differnt areas, I'll post one. Maybe two. Got a nail not wanting to come out the normal way with a claw hammer? Put the claw on it near the substrate and pull it sideways down toward the substrate. Repeat until nail release. 
Prying sideways with a flat bar seems to make base and trim less likely to split if you intend to reuse it. Of course don't try to loosen too much at a pry, work down or up the length in increments.

Anyone who has driven a 16 p nail in some of this old wood just far enough that bends and does not want to come out will appreciate the claw turned sideways ( if they did not already know about it).


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## twlinks (May 11, 2007)

Same Old said:


> They are blunt for a reason. Blunt nail points tend to break the wood fibers instead of splitting them apart. This reduces the number of split pieces. By firing sharpened trim nails you are creating small splits in the trim that will eventually become bigger with moisture content movement of the wood.
> I was also taught to hold the magazine of the trim gun perpendicular to the grain of the trim whenever possible. The points are usually oriented in line with the magazine and will further help to break the fibers by cutting more across the grain when fired in this position.
> 
> Try a blunted nail versus a sharp point on a piece of cedar which it is very evident. You'll see what I'm saying.


As a former Senco rep of 15 years, Same Old is exactly right here. Across the grain is best ...and most of the nail mfg's have it right and make their nail strips accordingly.

Ditto on the using a nail for a pilot hole if you're hand nailing. 

The nail through the hair used to work because they were coating it with "Brillcreme" for lubrication...lubricated shafts always work better.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Old thread, but worth adding to. Share, guys!


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Thsi may be basic for all of you framers but anyway. Say you are infilling the last couple of short rafters at the bottom of a hip. You know the little short crips with no birdsmouths that just run from the hip to the fascia. On the plumb cut fascia end, have your cut man tap an 8d nail into the end so that it can hang on the fascia. But the kicker is, dont just tap it in randomly, for a typical 2x fascia the tail will purlin 1/8 per rafter rise. So for a 6/12 pitch he would put the nail down 6/8 (3/4) for a 9/12 it would be down 1 1/8. Keeps you from having to lean over to check the purlin and also makes them easier to install. Sounds like extra work but most of my cut guys remember to do it and its a no brainer now. The nail can be left in after the rafter is nailed to. Just tap it in far enough to be flush with the fascia.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Rather than using tapcons, drill 3/16" hole, insert a piece of electical wire with the insulation still on, and use a normal screw. I usually use deck screws 'cause I have them handy. It won't come out!

One step drywall patching - on your hawk, make a donut with finish mud. Then add water in the middle of the donut and add "quick set" plaster. Mix the plaster first, then mix in the finish mud. Mix roughly 50/50. This will set up in about 15 minutes, and you can smooth it out with your trowel like glass. I use this trick all the time for repairs. Had to practically strangle my plasterer to get him to teach me this trick.

Rather than buying a special chalk line for fine lines, just trade out the normal line for "braided dacron" fishing line. It has to be the braided dacron, other stuff won't hold the chalk. Leaves about a 1/16" snap line. I use this for finish work rather than framing.


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

Double-A said:


> This is a great trick for hand nailing trim of small size, like screen moulding. Use a finish nail of the same size you are driving as a drill bit, just be sure not to push so far as to scar the would with the drill chuck.


To take this one step further, spin the finish nail in, unchuck it from the drill and you only have 3/4" left to hammer in. Compressor stays in the truck. Works great with any size trim.


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## CharlesD (Feb 12, 2007)

Journeyman T said:


> Speaking of blunting tips, blunting nail tips can prevent splitting. Simply blunt the point of the nail with a hammer before driving it into the wood.


When hand nailing, making a small dimple with the head of the nail on the place you're going to put the nail will help keep the wood from splitting. Plus when you set the nail there is a ready made pocket. Making the dimple blunts the tip also.


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## curiouscanuck (Dec 7, 2008)

Hulk'n Out said:


> Most framing hammers 1 1/2 in circumfrace I use the head of my hammer to set backing for gables that need to be craned up much faster than carrying a block up there or having to pull out your tape . :thumbup:


Along those same lines... Many framing pencils are made 1/4" by 1/2".

Using your finger as an edge guide holding onto the base of your circ. saw is very accurate and saves a million trips to the table saw.

Total simple one that makes a big difference for me :blush:, I'm always loosing my pencil for a sec at the saw between cuts when doing a list... so I just never put it down - after about 2 minutes you get used to having it always under your finger as your sorting-moving stock.

Wiggle your mis-shot brads back and forth if you can't crank them out with end-snips and they'll break off just under the surface.

Make cheap cases for your levels out of 3" ID ABS or PVC tubing with end-caps padded inside with foam.

For a tool-belt for cabinet/finish work get a cheapo small nylon belt and resew it so that the pockets are back past your hips so you can carry boxes in front of you with nothing in the way and so that you can kneel down into boxes with your bags far back... cover the hammer loop in electrical tape so you don't mar things.

If you take only one tip from this post - this is the one :thumbsup:. Get a sandwich press and/or a George foreman grill. Any crappy sandwich or cold burrito wrap thing suddenly becomes transformed into a melted cheese culinary delight in 3 minutes. I guarantee the line up will be longer than for the microwave.

Matt


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## JamesKB2 (May 13, 2009)

One of mine, that I came up with, is to use a 4" stainless drywall taping knife for trim work. I use it to remove trim instead of a bar or flat bar. It will wedge in between the wall and trim, or jamb and trim with no mark and will pry it off nice. Sometimes they will bend, but not often and you can straighten them with your hammer. I also use it when I have to do MDF trim (I know...I know...) to make a tight joint without the face breaking out. Say in a closet, or other short piece that you can't deflect to snap it in... Set the coped end in first and tight, then on the blunt end, have the taping knife between trim and wall. Slide the trim in tight and remove the knife. No face pop!


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## AndrewHess (Apr 23, 2009)

skyhook said:


> A Pilot hole, slightly smaller for nails and screws will keep the wood from spliting and get it in the right place.
> 
> For stripped out door jamb screws, I drill it out to 3/8", glue in a hardwood dowel, drill a pilot hole for the new screw. Hmmm, no wonder I carry 4 drill motors.
> 
> Sharpen the tips of finish nail strips with a 4" angle grinder.


I keep a pack of golf tees with me for the stripped door screws. Just hammer in the tee and break off the excess. Works like a charm unless the jamb is split.


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## master of none (Apr 27, 2009)

all-pro said:


> I haven't done this for a while, but to attack a plate or lumber to concrete drill a 1/4" hole through the wood and into the concrete. Then use 3 ( 10d nails or 16's- can't remember which ones) and hammer them in at the same time. When they are sunk all of the way in it holds great. Usually better than a ramset.
> Shane:thumbup:


a little more on this.... 1/4" hole is two 16s but what works better is 3/16 hole and 1 16 with a small piece of tie wire. I also hammer in tap-cons rather than screwing them in.... all good ways to fasten 2x to concrete:thumbsup:


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

master of none said:


> I also hammer in tap-cons rather than screwing them in.... all good ways to fasten 2x to concrete:thumbsup:


Doesn't that defeat the purpose?


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## master of none (Apr 27, 2009)

naptown CR said:


> Doesn't that defeat the purpose?


try it.... of course you got to drill the hole first. the only purpose it defeats is the hex head on the tapcon.


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## strathd (Jan 12, 2009)

_If you have to nail a very short piece of wood that allways splits. Cut it wild, nail it (without splitting). Then cut the excess off._


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

master of none said:


> try it.... of course you got to drill the hole first. the only purpose it defeats is the hex head on the tapcon.


I had an old guy one time ( alright i was young and he was about my age now) tell me that the slot on a screw was for taking it out not putting it in.


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## master of none (Apr 27, 2009)

naptown CR said:


> I had an old guy one time ( alright i was young and he was about my age now) tell me that the slot on a screw was for taking it out not putting it in.


i feel ya its hard getting old... But im twice the man i was when I was in my 20s


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

master of none said:


> i feel ya its hard getting old... But im twice the man i was when I was in my 20s


 I am three times the man unfortunately it is all concentrated in my gut


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## master of none (Apr 27, 2009)

:laughing::thumbup::laughing:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

To pull old rusty nails that don't want to come and have a tendency to break the heads off of. Hammer them in a little first. It breaks the bond of the rust to wood and they come right out.

To get a nice tight fit with joist hangers toe nail the joist in a few spots then clamp the hanger to the bottom of the joist tightly and then nail the hanger off.


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

Put diapers on your subcontractors.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

When framing 2x10 headers with 2x4 bottom cap, I always order 16' stock, build them full length, then cut them down to desired length. Always longest first, then work out to minimize waste. quick tip: Just spot nail then backnail as you layout for cuts.


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## HSConstruction (Mar 21, 2009)

snap one tooth the end off your keyhole saw to create a flat head screw driver for your sheetrock knife...one less tool in my already crowded and heavy bags.

use that construction calc that is sitting in the console of the truck, it can do a lot more than 1+1=2.


I was told you can trim one side of an interior door before install and then set it like you would an exterior door with brickmold.


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## JamesKB2 (May 13, 2009)

Morning Wood said:


> To get a nice tight fit with joist hangers toe nail the joist in a few spots then clamp the hanger to the bottom of the joist tightly and then nail the hanger off.


I've done that one for years. It's great! I hate setting hangars only to have the hung member :blink: sit too high or low.....


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

JamesKB2 said:


> I've done that one for years. It's great! I hate setting hangars only to have the hung member :blink: sit too high or low.....



Also, don't forget to use dry wood. Nothing worse than your joists shrinking away from the hanger later on. Some do anyway, regardless of the measures you take.


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## ShadowLynx (Feb 22, 2014)

After prying up trim that will be reused, pull the nails through with a pair of pliers to avoid blow-back at the nail holes.

Round off the sharp corners of a new mud knife with a sanding sponge.

Cope trim molding with a jigsaw.

Tired of split trim molding? Invest in a pin (23 gauge) nailer for fine stain grade trim; use the pins to hold the miter joints together while the glue set. 

Blunt nails to avoid splitting wood.

Stop burning razor blades on hardie backer board. Use a carbide tip scoring tool. I use one that outlasted 50 razor blades and is still going strong. You can make one by cutting one out of a spent skilsaw blade with a chop saw. Wrap handle electric tape for a better grip

Mix hot mud with all purpose drywall compound to fine tune curing time.

Ran out of spacers for tiling? You can use screws instead in a pinch. Or use short sections cut from a paint mixing stick.

Invest in a carbide grit jigsaw blade for outlet and pipe cutouts in cement board. They cost a little more but will last 100x longer than wood or metal cutting blades.

Mark your 4' level as a story stick.

Use the back of your tape measure as a notepad.

Use a wet vac to clear a dripping supply line when sweating copper.

Slip a steel pipe over the handle of your pipe wrench to increase your lever arm.

Use a piece of 2x4 as a super-sized pry bar in demolition; a 4x4 can double as a battering ram.

When demolition of plaster walls, use a sawall to to cut easy to lift sections out. Much less mess than using a sledge and saves time on clean up. Also put down a sheet or two of hardboard over the canvas/tarp/building paper to protect hardwood flooring from falling chunks of heavy plaster or nail studded wood.

Keep a couple pencils in EVERY toolbox :thumbsup:


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## vos (Apr 6, 2010)

keep 1 or 2 door hinge pins in your tool belt they are grate punches for roofing nails when hanging siding and windows.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

davitk said:


> Put diapers on your subcontractors.


:laughing:

This was hilarious.


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