# Pressure treated wood



## KellyPainting (May 30, 2006)

Got a customer with a brand new purgular made from pressure treated wood bought two weeks ago from home depot. Wood was wet and heavy upon arrival.
As we all know, Home Depot does not leave their wood outside to cure.

My customer wants it painted within the next two weeks, weather here has been dry and hot, but no where near the proper time for curring.

I'm going to use Cabbott solid (oil) stain. 

Question #1. whats your knowledge of curring time (everyones different, I've heard everything from 30 days to a year)

Question #2. Would I benefit from leaving the top unstained until next spring?
so I will leave a space for the moister / pressure treatment to release itself?
instead of locking it in to peal the stain off in a few months? 

I will not be giving any warranty for this project and the customer is aware of that fact. What's everyones thoughts?


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## HUDSONVALLEYEXT (Aug 29, 2006)

When my company builds custom decks we tell people not to seal them for 6 months. I would want it real dry for oil based paint...


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## Giftcard (Dec 28, 2006)

KellyPainting said:


> Got a customer with a brand new purgular made from pressure treated wood bought two weeks ago from home depot. Wood was wet and heavy upon arrival.
> As we all know, Home Depot does not leave their wood outside to cure.
> 
> My customer wants it painted within the next two weeks, weather here has been dry and hot, but no where near the proper time for curring.
> ...


Moisture content of wood should be below 18%.
If the lumber has been treated curring is required I would sand then stain with Sikkens Rubbol Its self priming and has a excellent bond.


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## Miller (Feb 26, 2007)

Yes I would wait to stain or paint any treated wood. I would wait till next spring. Yea you guys don't want to hear this but I was a manager at Home Depot and I would Highly recommend the wait.


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## KellyPainting (May 30, 2006)

She does not want to wait. I just got done staining her whole house,
good customer.... won't wait... have explained it.


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## DeanV (Feb 20, 2006)

I wonder if an acrylic stain would be a better choice if you cannot convince her to wait. It should allow more moisture to escape than the oil will without peeling (I honestly think you are screwed either way, just slightly less likely with acrylic). Unless of course what ever they treat that stuff with is incompatible with acrylic/WB stuff???


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## Giftcard (Dec 28, 2006)

Rubbol is microporous.


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## bigchaz (Jun 17, 2006)

Ive used cabots pro vt line of solid stain when we've replaced rails and then done a white rail two tone. The pro vt is self priming, and I havent seen any problems with peeling with it. Before I found a good lumber yard I was using the nasty wet wood from home depot/lowes to replace top rails on decks and then staining that same day with the solid.


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## BDA4Life (Jul 26, 2006)

DeanV said:


> I wonder if an acrylic stain would be a better choice if you cannot convince her to wait.



Please don't use Acrylic stains they are the worst stains ever made for decks!

You should use an oil base stain and just tell her the deck made need to be re stained in 12-18 months.Then the deck will hold up much better after the second treatment.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Woolmanized wood I was told by a carpenter to wait at least two years before staining or painting. but if she wants it done do it, but tell her it will need to be restained in a year or so for an extra charge.:whistling


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

*yeah normally I insist on a season of seasoning but....*

You can do it man, I have under the same circ. (customer won't wait)
Signed off on warranty....that a key...some sort of waiver

Sometimes it holds OK...sometimes it don't
(and boy they do love to call you back 6 months later to tell you that too...lol..."Seeeeeeee....I TOld you it'd be FIne...I WAAAaaaasss right!")
Yeah, yeah, yeah....lol
(ps, it's always a she)


Normally it's a min of 1 month...and that would be I'll CHECK it in a month
I'd recommend 3

Regardless of what any PTWood rep says
They don't paint the stuff, they don't know
And it doesn't come out of _their_ pocket and it isn't _their_ name when it fails


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## BDA4Life (Jul 26, 2006)

slickshift said:


> Normally it's a min of 1 month...and that would be I'll CHECK it in a month
> I'd recommend 3



I look it as the wood needs to go thru wet/dry cycles and usually tell the customer if they don't get any rain that they should wet the deck every other day.

Then if the deck is shaded most of the day i would give the deck a min of 6 months.Then they should wet the deck once a week if it stays dry.


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## PressurePros (Jul 3, 2006)

I agree that new PT wood is not easy to stain. While waiting will get the finish to look better the wet/evaporation cycles will start to check, cup and crack the wood. I wait 30 days, clean and pH balance it, wait two weeks then stain. The wood finish looks decent and the stain holds up (somewhat). Its usually ready to be retreated in less than a year.


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## painterofeveryt (Apr 8, 2005)

why not see what wolman.com has to say,after all they did make the wood..................


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## bigchaz (Jun 17, 2006)

painterofeveryt said:


> why not see what wolman.com has to say,after all they did make the wood..................


Because their primary goal is the sale of their products


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## painterofeveryt (Apr 8, 2005)

Brand new lumber that has been processed at a lumber mill (either pressure-treated or simply de-barked, planed and cut) will contain excess internal moisture and surface wax, or possibly a glazed surface that will prevent a coating from adhering or penetrating properly. By cleaning the surface, invisible barrier wax or mill glaze is removed, and wood pores are unclogged and opened, allowing trapped moisture to escape, which minimizes cracking and splitting before and after coating.....so what did they oversell here ?


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## DeanV (Feb 20, 2006)

*re*



BDA4Life said:


> Please don't use Acrylic stains they are the worst stains ever made for decks!
> 
> You should use an oil base stain and just tell her the deck made need to be re stained in 12-18 months.Then the deck will hold up much better after the second treatment.


I did not think he was talking about horizontal decking boards, or I would not recommend acrylic either.


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## PressurePros (Jul 3, 2006)

Take this for what its worth.. From my research and discussion with a couple of experts in the industry, mill glaze is nothing more than the natural sugars and oils in the wood that were heated by excessive tool and/or planar rotation that cool and harden at the surface. To my knowlege, mills do not add wax to wood surface unless they advertise that they do so. (such as the paraffin added to PT lumber).. You definitely have to chemically clean (not bleach) new PT lumber.


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## BDA4Life (Jul 26, 2006)

PressurePros said:


> You definitely have to chemically clean (not bleach) new PT lumber.



BlEaCh is the best chemical to help speed the drying out of new PT wood! :yes:


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## Giftcard (Dec 28, 2006)

Mill Glaze Cedar and Rewood. Wolman pressure treated wood process only protects against infestation,rot and decay. You still need to ptotect the wood from UV Rays Rain and Temperature. If the solid stain you want to use is Microporous, you don't need to worry about moisture vapors escaping.


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