# roof drain pipe clogged



## Grumpy (Oct 8, 2003)

I've got a situation where we replaced a flat roof and now the roof drain is clogged. It is possible this was a pre-existing condition, and also possible we some how caused it.

The customer has called 26 plumbers who all refuse to climb a ladder, since there is no scuttle hatch. The roof is only 22' from ground to gutter and is flat. We even volunteered to bring out a ladder for the plumbers if they wanted. 

So we tried going out with a shop vac. What seems to be a 4" pipe must reduce since the standard vacum doesn't fit very far down. We just rented a power rodder. We get about 20' down and the metal rod starts to bunch up, obviously hitting something. We stuck a garden hose down it just to see what would happen and same thing, about 20' down and it stops.

We believe the pipe to be straight up and down, maybe there is a bend at the 20' mark. Who knows...

Anyways what advice do you professional plumbers offer? Perhaps I can rent one of those scopes that see inside drains? Ths is a monkey I need off my back so I can focus on other things.


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

Cast iron or PVC drain? Some non plumbers advice, if the drain is not in a wall and accessible inside, if it was PVC I'd cut it off inside as close to the floor as possible (leaving plenty of pipe to attach to) and either you or a plumber rod it. I'd probably do the same with cast iron and then replace the cast with PVC, but that's a bit more work.


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## Grumpy (Oct 8, 2003)

Cast iron about 50 years old. Seems in good shape form what I can see from the roof.

If I cut anything I'd have to open walls and ceilings. That's not going to happen. I'm not even totally convinced it's our fault.


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

Grumpy said:


> Cast iron about 50 years old. Seems in good shape form what I can see from the roof.
> 
> *If I cut anything I'd have to open walls and ceilings. That's not going to happen. I'm not even totally convinced it's our fault.*


That sucks, maybe look for a plumber with one of those drain cameras run it down the pipe to see what the problem is, if you can get one that isn't afraid to climb a ladder. Maybe he can determine who is at fault, if it's a bunch of roofing material, yours, a bunch of tree roots, theirs and they pay for the camera guy.


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## NICKPAUS (May 11, 2008)

Most likely filled with roof grit at a bend. I have had this happen twice and it was preexisting before we roofed and was reason roof was leaking. Opened wall cut out section below bend shop vacced out about 15lbs of grit and added 2 no hubs and a smallsection of pipe.


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

Just thought of something, you might look to see if there is a clean-out on the drain. A clue might be if any of the drains are exposed (assuming there's more than one, might not be) and have them.



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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

There should be a CO at the base of the stack, that is code for the city of Chicago. You can rent a sewer camera at AJ Coleman on north Ravenswood, I think they are about 5700 north, but unless you know what to look for this may not help you at all and it's not a cheap rental. If you can't find anyone I can probably put you in contact with a contractor that will come out, but it won't be cheap.


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

Go rent a snake cam. There not cheap to rent. At least you will know exactly what your up against.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

I had a similar situation a few years ago. I took 2 sections of fiberglass tent poles (the ones that are used for a dome type tent) and duct-taped them together. I taped a brass garden hose nozel on the end of the pole and regulated it until it was a jet stream. I ran the fiberglass pole down until it hit the blockage and then turned the water on. It took about 30 seconds to break through and was all pine cones and other tree debris.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Robie said:


> I had a similar situation a few years ago. I took 2 sections of fiberglass tent poles (the ones that are used for a dome type tent) and duct-taped them together. I taped a brass garden hose nozel on the end of the pole and regulated it until it was a jet stream. I ran the fiberglass pole down until it hit the blockage and then turned the water on. It took about 30 seconds to break through and was all pine cones and other tree debris.


If you go this route, the fiberglass poles
for a flue brush are cheap and the sections
*screw* into each other. :thumbsup:


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## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

If the drain had beehive strainer on it, I would suspect roofing tar from days of yore to be the problem. We've run into this many many times. Get someone to camera the line or to open it professionally grumpy with a jetter. If its tar, it will just destroy a cable or rod machine.


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## Driftwood (Feb 15, 2004)

Please come over to the ridgid forum. We will help. Not so fast on the camera.
I would take My k- 380 up the ladder first and snake it out. We somehow got by with cameras for many years. You might get it clear for $250 without a cam.
You'll save,maybe $350


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