# rotozip



## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

Those cheapy outlet boxes the blue ones that homowners use are harder to router around cause the bit likes to grab them. Professional grade outlet boxes are easier to router around cause the bit doesnt try cutting into them.


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## shed-n-deck (Sep 25, 2007)

I bought one about 6 years ago...It was handy to cut thermo-ply, I cut about 10 sheets and it burned out....So I exchanged it, cut about 3 more sheets, and it burned out again...I got my money back and swore I'd never get another one. I broke down about 2 or 3 weeks ago, and bought another one...I nearly burned it out, but exchanged it before it had the chance, so far so good on the new one. I use it to cut tiles around outlet boxes in backsplash, or for small tile repairs....It's pretty good at grout removal too, the new one that I have came with the grout removal tool and bit, the one I bought 2 weeks ago had a tile cutting blade, this one didn't come with it. The set I bought was the RZ20. I'll use it for cutting door casing flush with new flooring too, up til now I've used a japanese flush cut saw for this, so I don't know how well the rotozip will work for this.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

My experience using cutting wood and tile with a roto zip is emergency use only and a heavier bit to do both. They get a lot of abuse through these dense materials. The fein master may be a better investment for you shed-n-deck.


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## GT Drywall (Dec 8, 2007)

*Roto-zip Necessity*

First off dont touch a zip unless you know what your doing!
Unless you enjoy losing money or having a taper seeing red. :furious: 

Ok, Ill let you in on my way of doing things.

1. Buy a marking crayon and mark all boxes on the floor. Builders charge $50.00 for *EVERY* missed box! In new construction all boxes are set at the same height. (switches,outlets) If they use metal boxes, check to make sure that the screws are screwed in, *all the way*.

2. Take your wooden hammer handle and shove wiring in boxes.
Electricians do not like short, cut wires and they *WILL* back charge you.

3.Set your bottom board in place, pull top back and take your hatchet and mark your boxes close to bottom of box. On ceilings just measure and mark the center on previous board. Then nail everything but just tack in our skip the studs around the area of the light fixture.

4. Lift board till seam is tight then *ONLY* nail the top. 
(If you nail close to the box at the end of your zip-out it will bump out and you will have to cut out the chunk out before taping)

5. Plunge zip in, run it till you hit the inside of the box (*lightly*).Then pull out, re plunge on the outside of box and *RIDE* the outside of the box *counter clockwise*.

6. Use a 1/4 inch bit for doorways and you want to go *clockwise*. 
(it beats using the saw method by 1/2 the time at least!)

Allways use *Guide point* zip bits! *Do not use Sabercut bits!*

I pull any guides or guards off the router and let my bit stick out further then recomended.

If for some reason the switches are installed, you have to cut out the actual switch, then the box.(2 steps)

Treat window cut outs the same as boxes, in the same direction but with the 1/4 inch bit.

Never force the bit, it will break. The whole point of clockwise/counter clockwise is due to the direction the zip spins.

Once you master the zip you can zip everything! :notworthy I zip around the tub flange, I zip out all bathroom pipes (this took a long time and a great deal of technique) When doing stairways I zip out the stair stringer for my 1st board. Its a time saver and money maker when done right.

Practice at home on a box with some drywall scraps, thats what I did 15 yrs. ago when the zips were about the size of coffee cans. Oh, I still use big zips for around doors and windows its more h.p. and is much faster.

You do not have to use Roto-Zip you can use any other kind of router.

Well, I hope this info will help someone.


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