# Removing stucco/cement from interior brick wall



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

As well, I know for a fact I could remove and clean that much sq ft easily in a weeks time and would gladly remove 6K from your pocket.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

stuart45 said:


> What's Barn Dashing S/S?


Textbook barndashing is generally the pointing being extended well beyond the joint region. It can also be refereed to in plaster and render work in which sporadic areas of brick and stone are exposed.

https://www.cumby.com/news/historic-restoration-complete-academy-notre-dame-de-namur-mansion

http://www.mathieu-mitchell-builders.ie/blog/brick-stone-lime-mortar-re-pointing


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Cover the floor with some 10 Mil poly , cut in the second bed joint a drip edge/ gutter apron, install a Style K gutter with a pump to mud tank. proceed to powerwash...

Sponges and rubbing stones would faster/cheaper then the Bosch chewing up a bunch of soft bricks

For under 5K just lay another wythe of 2" bed bricks, saw up some commons, use lots of mesh ties.. Hire A BOOT or do it yourself so it looks ROUGH.:thumbsup:

About the same $$, maybe more time, Thin brick after a scratch coat of plaster and mesh?

What were you planning to do when you mop the floor? move out?:whistling

maybe some nail on faux bricks from lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/47-75-in-x-7-98-ft-Embossed-Red-Brick-Hardboard-Wall-Panel/1015475


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## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

superseal said:


> Textbook barndashing is generally the pointing being extended well beyond the joint region. It can also be refereed to in plaster and render work in which sporadic areas of brick and stone are exposed.
> 
> https://www.cumby.com/news/historic-restoration-complete-academy-notre-dame-de-namur-mansion
> 
> http://www.mathieu-mitchell-builders.ie/blog/brick-stone-lime-mortar-re-pointing


Thanks for the links S/S. There's a lot of stone buildings where I live, but I've not seen this method used here. Most of the repointing done on old stonework now is lime mortar pointed flush and wacked with the Churn brush.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

I kinda agree with 4th gen, just lay a course in front of it, would take a guy a day or so and would come out however you want it, clean, rough, w/e


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## Kscherbain (Jan 30, 2018)

I say start with a 2x2 area. See if you dig the action. Could be a way to save money. If it sucks, hire someone. Not for 6gs though, couple quotes will help that


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## RookiePlumber (Mar 1, 2017)

Went at the wall with a demo hammer today. Some parts fall off in decent size pieces. Others are on there good. They are sort of coming off with a few passes. As superseal suggested going slow is helping knocking those layers off.

I started spraying the wall with a 1 gallon pump sprayer and the render material literally drinks the water. Barely any runoff. The water is really helping with dust control. I think the water is making removal with a demo hammer easier. The material breaking off are like bits of sand and not dust.

Sharpening my chisel bit is helping.

The layer that is left over is going to be a pain to remove. My initial idea of using a concrete surface grinder probably isn’t going to work as many of you have advised me.

I going gently use a knotted wire cup wheel attached to a grinder. If I wet the hell out of small sections I’m hoping the remaining “smear” will come off like bits of sand and not create a dust storm. 

Getting pneumatic chisels is still an option. I’m still way under budget.

Talked to a dry ice blaster firm today. The guy walked me through the process and told me my neighbors wouldn’t be knocking on my door to complain, they’d call the cops. The noise is allegedly as loud as a rock concert.












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## RookiePlumber (Mar 1, 2017)

superseal;l said:


> when I say pneumatic tools, I mean air tools then can be dialed down to a very low bpm which can literately dance the render off the surface with extremely controlled results which preserves the brick. Very low dust as well.



On the last 1/4 of the wall I went really slow with the demo hammer and was able to get a much cleaner brick surface. I should have listened to this advice from the beginning.

To remove the render off the rest of the wall I’ll get a brick rub and a sharp hand chisel.


Is this black stuff mold? How can I remove it indoors? I cannot hose off any chemicals indoors.


Thx





























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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

RookiePlumber said:


> On the last 1/4 of the wall I went really slow with the demo hammer and was able to get a much cleaner brick surface. I should have listened to this advice from the beginning.
> 
> To remove the render off the rest of the wall I’ll get a brick rub and a sharp hand chisel.
> 
> ...


Take some Mold Armor to it and see if it removes it. 

Looking good rookie!


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## RookiePlumber (Mar 1, 2017)

Hired a kid on Craigslist to scrap and wire brush the brick for 2 days. Came out ok.

I still need to get the white marks off the brick. Using vinegar for that.

And I’ll it it with mold armor to get off the black stuff. Though I think that stuff is on there permanently. The mold has been behind the render for decades.











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## kirkdc (Feb 16, 2017)

May the Force be with you.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Smoke blacken brick? Check local fire department blotter for fire at that address, any digitized local old newspapers for same.....

Many a interior wall in the big cities were built out of used brick, many culled from the rubble of a burnt down building. Arguably, reburnt used brick can be stronger then single fired common back up bricks....

Even in an un burnt demoed building a few % of the brick were always stained by their position in chimneys present for pot iron stoves and ovens. and of course the whole building furnace/boiler chimney bricks.

I'd use muratic acid diluted 4-1 with sponge on the newer/gray mortar patches to burn out the Portland cement leaving just the sand on the surface... wear eye, lung and hand protection, roll a "gutter" cuff to protect your forearms, some lime spread on the catchment plastic will neutralize any fallen acid.

Common sense would have you sealing the soft brick and mortar, the low strength mortar and softer bricks doesn't form a lasting cleanable surface.


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