# EP Henry patio bricks over concrete patio with thinset



## Pheasant89 (Apr 1, 2011)

Did anyone ever thinset EP Henry type pavers to a concrete patio then fill the joints with a sand /cement mix . I live in Pa. which we have winters. E P Henry says not to do it but I cannot understand why I have used thinset bricks on a patio with 3000 bricks and spaced not even 1/8 in and spread pointing sand and cement 5/1 and not a loose brick and job (moms house) going on 10 years. Want to do my own patio.


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

It certainly can be done.

The way we have done it is to pick a product that is available in 8cm thickness as well as 6cm thickness.

We glue the perimeter with approved adhesive with the 8cm material, allow the adhesive to cure, screed sand into the field and set the field area with the 6cm material, sweep with polymeric sand.

There is also an acceptable method for installing on a mortar bed.

You can find these documents at:
http://www.ephenry.com/products/technical-info.aspx?selid=3046#library


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## concretemasonry (Dec 1, 2006)

As Tom said, it CAN be done and much depends on the location and climate.

I can understand the reason for E.P.Henry not suggesting it because of the general liability.

It is a unique small volume (market-wise) and there are many potential pitfalls. The main one is the accumulation of water between and under the pavers sitting on a concrete slab - where is no where for it to go which is a huge problem if the slab does not drain properly and the climate has many annual freeze-thaw cycles. In many countries, they commonly reccomend a perforated edge restraint and occasionally put a gravel base with perforated pipe for drainage and then a setting bed for important applications (usually roads).

The did cover themselves after reading the pdf and the requirements.

Patios are a small market for concrete pavers in comparison to other markets. I personally do not think a polymeric sand is a benefit and have never seen it on a major major paving job with real loads like a street (a block or two with light loads), an airport runway or a industrial/commercial installation of 20 to 40 acres.

E.P. Henry is a very good manufacturer with units between 8,000 and 10,000+ psi and is a member of the National Concrete Masonry Association (NCMA) and the Interlocking Concrete Paving Institute (ICPI), both of which are involved in the certification program for contractors. They certainly do give a great list of ICPI technical note for the users to rely on.


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## Pheasant89 (Apr 1, 2011)

The sand /cement mix doesnt come in to play as far as sealing the joints once the paver is thinsetted to the concrete? Isn't a 3/1 or 4/1 mix a good seal. That is the method EP henry gave me with the sand over the concrete but I would just rather cement it down.


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

In a place like PA I wouldn't do it that way. Too much of a pain in the ass when it does heave.

If the concrete can't come up then just screed sand and lay them like normal, then it can be easily fixed later. If the concrete can come up, take it out.

The more layers you begin adding the more likely it is for water to get where it shouldn't be.

I like the poly sand for the joints. Seems to do a good job of keeping the water on top.


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## jeffbudding (Jul 26, 2012)

*poly sand*










Yea we are in PA too. I would avoid doing that. Poly sand is the way to go. alliance gator dust or techno seal will be fine.

I would just follow Eps advice on this one.

-Jeff


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