# New Tablesaw - Burnt Cut



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Made the first cut with my new table saw and discovered to be a burnt cut, on this piece of treated. 

This due to a cheap/stock blade?


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Is it on backwards?


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Warren said:


> Is it on backwards?


 Don't suppose so but will check tomorrow.

*Also - what type of blade would be used for rough rip cuts on wood siding?*


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Are both pieces of wood burnt, or just one?


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

cross cutting with a backwards blade....


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Since thats a rip off the end of a 2x4 or something is it possible that the board was run through the saw straight. Perhaps stick with ripping on the table saw and chopping on the miter saw, or get a guide.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

hdavis said:


> Are both pieces of wood burnt, or just one?


 One.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Could have been pushed through at an angle - only one piece burnt, could have hinged as he pushed, both sides burnt. Bad blade, wrong blade, dirty blade, dull blade,....


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

artinall said:


> One.


Most likely saw's blade is at an angle to the push direction. Check blade to table grooves for parallel.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

what kind of blade/ts? did it feel ok going through? happens to me when i feed slowly on harder woods, but never on pt.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

You might as well go through adjusting your new table saw. Here's a PDF that will get you started - it'll save you a lot of headaches in the long run:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

aptpupil said:


> what kind of blade/ts? did it feel ok going through? happens to me when i feed slowly on harder woods, but never on pt.


Using the miter slot or ripping? I have my contractor saw set up so the fence and blade aren't exactly parallel, so I have a little clearance on the back edge of the blade, but blade is parallel to miter slot. I run both parallel on my bigger saw.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

hdavis said:


> Using the miter slot or ripping? I have my contractor saw set up so the fence and blade aren't exactly parallel, so I have a little clearance on the back edge of the blade, but blade is parallel to miter slot. I run both parallel on my bigger saw.


ripping. can't say i use the ts for crosscuts much unless i'm making picture frames or something. i also keep the back of my fence about 1/32" more open in the back to avoid kickback.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I do the same thing. I'm not a fan of kick back. I'll make max depth cuts on my 12" and still not be through the stock when I'm making custom thresholds out of oak or whatever. If I had the fence off parallel with the blade, it's be too big a problem. That one will definitely kick back.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

artinall said:


> Don't suppose so but will check tomorrow.
> 
> *Also - what type of blade would be used for rough rip cuts on wood siding?*


Ideally a 24 tooth rip blade. I'm assuming this isn't a powerful saw, so use a thin kerf carbide blade. Freud, Dewalt, both are good and not very expensive.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

artinall said:


> Made the first cut with my new table saw and discovered to be a burnt cut, on this piece of treated.
> 
> This due to a cheap/stock blade?


 
Try cutting some non treated wood and see how it cuts. 

What make saw is it?

Rip with the fence and cross cut with the miter guage.


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

Is the fence in alignment with the blade?

A cocked fence will do that.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

You probably got the wrong blade on the saw, because something is causing heat buildup and that could be excessive friction of the blade against the wood, assuming that the saw is aligned correctly.

" Saw blade backwards ?"---- you made me spit my coffee when I saw that :laughing:


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

I once missed up an bought a chop saw blade and put it in my table saw . Would not cut for beans. cut better with the old one.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

The fact that only one side is burnt tells me that it's an alignment issue. Table saws aren't ideal for cross cuts, especially on long stock. 
Were you using the slot miter square when you made that cut? If so, were you using the fence as a length stop? If so, then the burnt piece was probably against the fence. If not, then the blade wasn't parallel to the table slot, or the mitre gauge wasn't zero'd in the squre to the blade.

Lots of variables with little info to go by to make an accurate guess.
Joe


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