# Wall Hung Toilet Help!



## NestoG510 (Dec 29, 2013)

Hello Everyone,

I just started a bathroom remodel in the bay area,Ca and have demo everything to the studs.
For this project I have to install a Geberit wall hung toilet. I have installed these before with out a problem.

On this particular project, it happens that there is a 4' vent in the wall and in the way.

Note, bathroom is on the second floor.

how can i reroute to accommodate for wall hung toilet?


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

NestoG510 said:


> Hello Everyone, I just started a bathroom remodel in the bay area,Ca and have demo everything to the studs. For this project I have to install a Geberit wall hung toilet. I have installed these before with out a problem. On this particular project, it happens that there is a 4' vent in the wall and in the way. Note, bathroom is on the second floor. how can i reroute to accommodate for wall hung toilet?


Looks like your gonna have to re route the vent if you can't put the toilet in a different place. Even if you could move the toilet your gonna have to cut a lot of that vent out.


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

First of all – welcome to CT! You really should do an intro post.

I checked and there is indeed a company with your name in the Bay Area so...

I’m confused by your post. None of the toilets you’ve replaced before had a vent?


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## NestoG510 (Dec 29, 2013)

DaVinciRemodel said:


> First of all – welcome to CT! You really should do an intro post.
> 
> I checked and there is indeed a company with your name in the Bay Area so...
> 
> I’m confused by your post. None of the toilets you’ve replaced before had a vent?


Thanks for the tip about intro post,

toilets i have replaced have had vents just not directly behind it.
for example, one toilet had exterior plumbing so there was space to put in wall hung toilet kit.
in other the location was slightly different.

in this case, i need to put the kit right where the vent is.


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

Like BC said, you’re going to have to reroute the vent. This should not be a big deal since you need to remove the flange and closet bend anyway. Your plumber should have little problem with this reroute. 

I’m guessing (based on the picture) the original work is fairly old – so hopefully you won’t have much repairing of plaster on the ceiling/walls below.

Good luck!


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

Snap the vent above the tee twice, remove the piece of CI, burn the tee out of the hub below it, and reroute the vent stack with four 1/8 bends and a sission joint. This isn't rocket surgery.


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## huggytree (Nov 3, 2013)

you could add a 2nd 2x4 wall and put the in the wall toilet stuff in front of the vent pipe


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

KillerToiletSpider said:


> Snap the vent above the tee twice, remove the piece of CI, burn the tee out of the hub below it, and reroute the vent stack with four 1/8 bends and a sission joint. This isn't rocket surgery.


This is where I have a battle with my plumber also, he says "just remove the studs" not caring that it is a load bearing wall and the upper portion of the vent cannot be moved with out doing work in the room above. I can't put a header in if the pipe is in the way. He always is willing to remove any studs that get in his way.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

KillerToiletSpider said:


> Snap the vent above the tee twice, remove the piece of CI, burn the tee out of the hub below it, and reroute the vent stack with four 1/8 bends and a sission joint. This isn't rocket surgery.


As I understand it, the drain from the toilet drops straight down, into what we think of as the existing vent stack. Is there now a tee or wye sending the vent off to the side?


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

You are going to have to re plumb the drain anyway. So just move the vent while you're at it. 

Keep us posted.


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## mrcharles (Sep 27, 2011)

KillerToiletSpider said:


> Snap the vent above the tee twice, remove the piece of CI, burn the tee out of the hub below it, and reroute the vent stack with four 1/8 bends and a sission joint. This isn't rocket surgery.




It's not rocket appliances...


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> As I understand it, the drain from the toilet drops straight down, into what we think of as the existing vent stack. Is there now a tee or wye sending the vent off to the side?


You would cut the 4" cast iron below the floor (yes, there will have to be some demo and patch work on the first floor). You would then reduce the stack to 3" with a CP-43 shielded coupling, install a 3" C/O tee to be used as a test point and then stack a 3x2" Wye above the test tee. The 3" would go vertically up the wall to pick up the carrier and the 2" would go horizontally through the wall of the floor below before changing direction and transitioning to vertical in the adjacent stud bay. 

Assuming this isn't the only bathroom in the house, the cross sectional requirement would have already been met by the other bathroom(s) and you would be free to yard out the oversized 4" VTR and replace it with a 2" VTR. Yeah, some demo of the ceiling/attic space of the 2nd floor is going to have to happen in order to make this work.

This is isn't Rocket Surgery -- You just need to know what you're doing and you need to stand your ground when the GC starts flipping you a steaming pile of poo about having to open up walls and ceilings in spaces he/she didn't account for. A good GC wouldn't bid a project like this w/out first consulting the other Trades involved in the project. Period. I generally walk away from projects where the GC expects me to perform miracles. There is zero profit to be made in sucking up to folks with unrealistic expectations. Sucking up is a dangerous (and expensive) precedent to set. Period.

It isn't Brain Science, not by any stretch of the imagination. But it does require some coordination with the other Trades. GC's who argue with me and limit my ability to do the job correctly are kicked to the curb.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

rrk said:


> This is where I have a battle with my plumber also, he says "just remove the studs" not caring that it is a load bearing wall and the upper portion of the vent cannot be moved with out doing work in the room above. I can't put a header in if the pipe is in the way. He always is willing to remove any studs that get in his way.


There wouldn't be a battle if you listened to the Plumber and took his/her advice.

We're there to get the job done as quickly and as efficiently as possible, not get in a pissing match with a combative GC.

You hired us to do something you couldn't do yourself -- Let us do it the way it needs to be done so the job can keep moving forward.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> You hired us to do something you couldn't do yourself -- Let us do it the way it needs to be done so the job can keep moving forward.


That's all well and good, but when did they start training plumbers in the fine details of framing codes and structural stress analysis? No specialty fully trumps another; it needs to be a cooperative effort.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Tinstaafl said:


> That's all well and good, but when did they start training plumbers in the fine details of framing codes and structural stress analysis? No specialty fully trumps another; it needs to be a cooperative effort.


Cow patties.

Framing can always be fixed. Always. It may cost a bundle, but there are still ways to correct butchery.

Plumbing, OTOH, must still follow the laws of gravity and physics.

Also, you missed the point -- It isn't my job to keep promises the GC shouldn't have made to the HO in the first place. My job is to get the poopy out of the building as expeditiously as possible.

And just so we're clear, I don't have a combative relationship with my GC's -- They respect my wisdom and make me a part of the bidding/budgeting process. Not one of them would go in on a job like this and start throwing numbers around w/out first seeking my input.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> Cow patties.
> 
> Framing can always be fixed. Always. It may cost a bundle, but there are still ways to correct butchery.
> 
> ...


That's right framing has nothing to do with gravity, or load paths. You still have not mentions how to move your pipe over to another stud bay without doing work in the room above or below while still staying within the 3 1/2" wall thickness. If you have to do work above and below it would be more cost effective just to build out to fit the relocated pipe.


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> Cow patties.
> 
> Framing can always be fixed. Always. It may cost a bundle, but there are still ways to correct butchery.
> 
> ...


Hey, Cow Patties.

Removing butcher plumbers from the project can always be done. Always! It doesn’t cost a dime!

Framing follows the laws of gravity, wind shear, live load, dead load and physics. 

You missed the point – “No specialty trumps another” – not “always” – not sometimes – NEVER!

And just so we’re clear, you now have a combative relationship here! Your 3 posts here have not earned any respect for your “wisdom” and based on what I’ve seen here, I would not go to a project with you.

You assume that the OP screwed-up and doesn’t have the budget to do it – with or without your help or “butchery”. You also assume that a member here, that has earned our respect, needs input from a newbie who doesn’t have the balls to post his/her real name, location, website…

I don’t/won’t seek/want/need your input. Kicking you to the curb!


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## totes (Oct 17, 2013)

huggytree said:


> you could add a 2nd 2x4 wall and put the in the wall toilet stuff in front of the vent pipe


Simple easy solution. ^^^

I'm in the same situation, except there is a tub/shower adjacent to the WC, so I can't fur out the wall behind the WC to accommodate the wall mount toilet, due to space constraint.

Solution, change order...."it's going to cost an extra 600 bucks because of this 4" cast iron stack in the way, which was an unforeseen circumstance, or we can get a traditional floor mount...."

Problem solved.

True story


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> Framing can always be fixed. Always. It may cost a bundle, but there are still ways to correct *butchery*.
> 
> Plumbing, OTOH, must still follow the laws of gravity and physics.


So you confess to butchery, eh? :laughing:

News flash: Framing follows those same laws, and without proper framing, you won't have a stable structure within which to ply your trade. Butchering that structure does no one any good.

A good end result requires cooperation between the trades; a prima donna approach by any one of them is a losing proposition.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Sounds like the the plumbers around here. "Don't worry that I have cut out 9 " of the 10" joist out. It still passes the bounce test"


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

BCConstruction said:


> Sounds like the the plumbers around here. "Don't worry that I have cut out 9 " of the 10" joist out. It still passes the bounce test"


Don't build with sticks, problem solved.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Cow patties. Framing can always be fixed. Always. It may cost a bundle, but there are still ways to correct butchery. Plumbing, OTOH, must still follow the laws of gravity and physics. Also, you missed the point -- It isn't my job to keep promises the GC shouldn't have made to the HO in the first place. My job is to get the poopy out of the building as expeditiously as possible. And just so we're clear, I don't have a combative relationship with my GC's -- They respect my wisdom and make me a part of the bidding/budgeting process. Not one of them would go in on a job like this and start throwing numbers around w/out first seeking my input.


This is just a phucked statement. Why is it that plumbers seen to think their pipes are more important then an engineered shearwall. It's not a choice where we put studs a lot of the times it's an engineering calculation. This is not optional. It really pisses me off when I come in after a plumber just drill a 2-1/2" hole through a 4x4 in a shearwall that has a holdown attached to it. This 4x4 isn't in the plumbers way because it has to be there. Period.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

totes said:


> Simple easy solution. ^^^
> 
> I'm in the same situation, except there is a tub/shower adjacent to the WC, so I can't fur out the wall behind the WC to accommodate the wall mount toilet, due to space constraint.
> 
> ...


That is the way I would have done it also, let the homeowner decide. 
Unlike a certain plumber I don't have xray vision to see inside walls.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Hey, Cow Patties.
> 
> Removing butcher plumbers from the project can always be done. Always! It doesn’t cost a dime!
> 
> ...



Oh no -- I rattled the cage of a GC. I'm truly Phac'd now.

And just so we're clear -- I steered us towards our new found "combative relationship". It's what I do. You'd know this if you were welcome anywhere but here and the DIY network.

I don't have much love for folks who can buy their licenses w/out any previous experience.

A Plumber needs a minimum of 4 years experience and has to sit for a test of knowledge in order to cement his/her gig -- A GC just needs a checkbook and enough money in his/her account for the check to clear.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Oh no -- I rattled the cage of a GC. I'm truly Phac'd now.
> 
> And just so we're clear -- I steered us towards our new found "combative relationship". It's what I do. You'd know this if you were welcome anywhere but here and the DIY network.
> 
> ...


I had to take a 5 hour test, one on the law and the other on the trades. More then one trade. prove 4 Years of journeyman experience pass a background check. GC is one of the hardest licenses to get in Cali. See I can do plumbing with my license buy you cantt do framing with yours, in cali.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> Oh no -- I rattled the cage of a GC. I'm truly Phac'd now.
> 
> And just so we're clear -- I steered us towards our new found "combative relationship". It's what I do. You'd know this if you were welcome anywhere but here and the DIY network.
> 
> ...


Whoa!

Checkbook.....money? And the knowledge and experience to either perform or oversee the PROPER completion of 14,765 different things.
Oh.....and conduct the orchestra so as to arrive at Mozart instead of Milli Vanilli.

Check yo..self son.

Or I'll keep doing it for ya......THAT, is what I do.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> This is just a phucked statement. Why is it that plumbers seen to think their pipes are more important then an engineered shearwall. It's not a choice where we put studs a lot of the times it's an engineering calculation. This is not optional. It really pisses me off when I come in after a plumber just drill a 2-1/2" hole through a 4x4 in a shearwall that has a holdown attached to it. This 4x4 isn't in the plumbers way because it has to be there. Period.


Because the routing of my piping is important.

You as a Framer/Carpenter have a lot more options than I do.

I don't go out of my way to Phac with you, not ever, but I do face more limitations than you do. I'm only allowed so many changes in direction or so many lineal feet in a Drain/Waste/Vent system.

There is an entire industry devoted to fabricating hardware to correct and repair the structural damage caused by Plumbers (and the other Trades) who have to overcome engineering/architectural defects. Avail yourself of them.

I will always check with you before I start my rough-in -- It's called 'Professional Courtesy' and I will walk you through my layout and even take the time to consider your ideas insofar as altering the layout -- But ultimately the finished product is my responsibility. I'm the one who has to get the job through the Inspection process and honor the warranty. Not you.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> I had to take a 5 hour test, one on the law and the other on the trades. More then one trade. prove 4 Years of journeyman experience pass a background check. GC is one of the hardest licenses to get in Cali. See I can do plumbing with my license buy you cantt do framing with yours, in cali.


Cow patties.

California is easily the easiest state to get a GC's license in.

Doubt me? Consider the OP (who's from Cali) who couldn't figure out how to re-route an already oversized vent. 

Sorry, CD, I'm just not buying it.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> Because the routing of my piping is important.
> 
> You as a Framer/Carpenter have a lot more options than I do.
> 
> ...


That was soooo.....reasonable. I almost feel bad. I do...kinda.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Whoa!
> 
> Checkbook.....money? And the knowledge and experience to either perform or oversee the PROPER completion of 14,765 different things.
> Oh.....and conduct the orchestra so as to arrive at Mozart instead of Milli Vanilli.
> ...


Still not feeling much love for someone who paid for his license instead of earning it.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> That was soooo.....reasonable. I almost feel bad. I do...kinda.


You'd be amazed at how little I care.

Positively amazed.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> Still not feeling much love for someone who paid for his license instead of earning it.


Thank you so much.

I can remove that miniscule bit of guilt I had.

Carry on Commander.:thumbsup:


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> You'd be amazed at how little I care.
> 
> Positively amazed.


I believe the truth of that statement is abundantly clear.

Good day sir.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

KillerToiletSpider said:


> Don't build with sticks, problem solved.


And don't build w/out first considering the folks who will be coming in behind you.

It's not my fault you (or your framing crew) didn't read the prints and centered a joist where a shower, tub or WC is suppose to be when you rolled out the joists.

Now it (the joist) is going to have to be headed off. And don't even think about blaming me for your shortsightedness. You put it there or you supervised the folks who put it there, not me.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I believe the truth of that statement is abundantly clear.
> 
> Good day sir.


See ya.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Thank you so much.
> 
> I can remove that miniscule bit of guilt I had.
> 
> Carry on Commander.:thumbsup:


No worries.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Cow patties. California is easily the easiest state to get a GC's license in. Doubt me? Consider the OP (who's from Cali) who couldn't figure out how to re-route an already oversized vent. Sorry, CD, I'm just not buying it.


 Your license isn't any harder to get then mine. Not trying to sell you anything.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> Your license isn't any harder to get to get then mine. Not trying to sell you anything.


Spoken like a man/woman who has never sat for what is unarguably the most intense competency exam of all the Trades.

I hold GC licenses in the states of Washington and Oregon, btw -- All I had to do to obtain the licenses was pay the licensing fee, set aside the money for the bond in an escrow account and buy insurance. 

All of it was done online and in a single afternoon.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

You have to prove 4 years experience as a journeyman carpenter or supervisor here. Poof as in W-2 and tax documents.You have to take a 5 hour test on all the trades along with a law exam. Have you been over to the licensing threads if so tell them guys over there how easy Cali is.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Spoken like a man/woman who has never sat for what is unarguably the most intense competency exam of all the Trades. I hold GC licenses in the states of Washington and Oregon, btw -- All I had to do to obtain the licenses was pay the licensing fee, set aside the money for the bond in an escrow account and buy insurance. All of it was done online and in a single afternoon.


Those qualifications to be a GC won't even get you a city business license here. Let alone any kind of contractors license. You were a carpenter at one time? If not you couldn't get a GC license if you wanted to here. You would of at least had to of worked as a superviser for a general for four years here. Or if your a structural engineer I think you could become one.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> Spoken like a man/woman who has never sat for what is unarguably the most intense competency exam of all the Trades.
> 
> I hold GC licenses in the states of Washington and Oregon, btw -- All I had to do to obtain the licenses was pay the licensing fee, set aside the money for the bond in an escrow account and buy insurance.
> 
> All of it was done online and in a single afternoon.


:laughing:

I can't ever imagine how plumbing zone rejected ya.


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## tyb525 (Feb 26, 2013)

Widdershins said:


> Spoken like a man/woman who has never sat for what is unarguably the most intense competency exam of all the Trades.
> 
> I hold GC licenses in the states of Washington and Oregon, btw -- All I had to do to obtain the licenses was pay the licensing fee, set aside the money for the bond in an escrow account and buy insurance.
> 
> All of it was done online and in a single afternoon.


Around here, there was a time a few years ago all you had to do was take a written test and do a lead pour to get your plumbers license.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> :laughing:
> 
> I can't ever imagine how plumbing zone rejected ya.


It was a long and slow process punctuated by a lot of needless drama.

Sometimes there is a price to be paid for being too popular.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> It was a long and slow process punctuated by a lot of needless drama. Sometimes there is a price to be paid for being too popular.


Your just a famous guy aren't you? Your just pissed because of the golden rule.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

If you've ever done work for a GC you must know what the golden rule is.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

tyb525 said:


> Around here, there was a time a few years ago all you had to do was take a written test and do a lead pour to get your plumbers license.


Good thing I know enough Indie Plumbers to know that is pure and unadulterated bull shiot.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> It was a long and slow process punctuated by a lot of needless drama.
> 
> Sometimes there is a price to be paid for being too popular.


Similar to what happened to Rex?

Your avatar looks like my cat.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> Your just a famous guy aren't you? Your just pissed because of the golden rule.


*You're'*


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> *You're'*


Do you know what the golden rule is?


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> Similar to what happened to Rex?


Similar in that we both had it coming? Absolutely.

There has to be a limit in how far you push people.

I overstayed my welcome -- So did he.



> Your avatar looks like my cat.


You have a Tortie? Sweet.

Does she run around for no apparent reason with her tail all floofed up yowling at the top of her lungs? Usually after taking a crap?

We call that the 'Zoomies' around here.

Life is much fuller with a psychotic Tortie in it.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> Do you know what're golden rule is?


In Engrish?


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> In Engrish?


Dude it's my ipad it auto corrects and I'm guilty of not reading it before I post. 

So do you know what the golden rule is?


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> Dude it's my ipad it auto corrects and I'm guilty of not reading it before I post.
> 
> So do you know what the golden rule is?


I would rather you tell me what you think it is.

Bonus points will be awarded for proper spelling, grammar and punctuation.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Like I said, I'm too lazy sometimes to proof read my posts. You will either deal with it or not answer my posts. Do you like apples?


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> Like I said, I'm too lazy sometimes to proof read my posts. You will either deal with it or not answer my posts. Do you like apples?


I'm posting from one.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> I'm posting from one.


Phuck, at least you have a since of humor


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> Phuck, at least you have a since of humor


http://ipad.about.com/od/ipad_basics/ss/How-To-Turn-Off-Auto-Correct-On-The-Ipad.htm


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> http://ipad.about.com/od/ipad_basics/ss/How-To-Turn-Off-Auto-Correct-On-The-Ipad.htm


It doesn't bother me. It bothers you.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> It doesn't bother me. It bothers you.


It doesn't bother me. I was just trying to be helpful.

Autocorrect is seldom intuitive and is usually the first feature I turn off when I buy a new phone, tablet, desktop, tower or laptop.

The second is 'Location Services'. I'm not a big fan of being needlessly tracked.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> It doesn't bother me. I was just trying to be helpful. Autocorrect is seldom intuitive and is usually the first feature I turn off when I buy a new phone, tablet, desktop, tower or laptop. The second is 'Location Services'. I'm not a big fan of being needlessly tracked.


I don't like the tracking either. As a matter of fact I don't even like the idea that my phone pings different towers automatically. There's just something about that I don't like.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

This is like a cross between Bruno and TNT, some funny chit for sure!

Carry on :laughing:


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> I don't like the tracking either. As a matter of fact I don't even like the idea that my phone pings different towers automatically. There's just something about that I don't like.


You ever check the 'permissions' you have to agree to before downloading an app?

Unbelievable.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> Similar in that we both had it coming? Absolutely.
> 
> There has to be a limit in how far you push people.
> 
> ...


Yeah the little bastard loves walking on you at night and depositing hair everywhere.


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## Widdershins (Dec 29, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> Yeah the little bastard loves walking on you at night and depositing hair everywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 105539


That's the 'Come Hither' pose -- I'm very familiar with it.

You're allowed to rub the belly exactly 2 times before the claws and teeth come out and your arm/hand is disemboweled.


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## NestoG510 (Dec 29, 2013)

Widdershins said:


> You would cut the 4" cast iron below the floor (yes, there will have to be some demo and patch work on the first floor). You would then reduce the stack to 3" with a CP-43 shielded coupling, install a 3" C/O tee to be used as a test point and then stack a 3x2" Wye above the test tee. The 3" would go vertically up the wall to pick up the carrier and the 2" would go horizontally through the wall of the floor below before changing direction and transitioning to vertical in the adjacent stud bay.
> 
> Assuming this isn't the only bathroom in the house, the cross sectional requirement would have already been met by the other bathroom(s) and you would be free to yard out the oversized 4" VTR and replace it with a 2" VTR. Yeah, some demo of the ceiling/attic space of the 2nd floor is going to have to happen in order to make this work.


sounds good. there is another bathroom on the other side of the house.
Reducing the vent size will definitely make it easier. Also, i think i might have enough space in between floor to do the work without disturbing downstairs, but if i need to, it will be done.

Thanks everyone for your input.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

NestoG510 said:


> sounds good. there is another bathroom on the other side of the house. Reducing the vent size will definitely make it easier. Also, i think i might have enough space in between floor to do the work without disturbing downstairs, but if i need to, it will be done. Thanks everyone for your input.


See how easy that was? If your like me I call my plumber that way if there is ever any leaks his insurance will pay not mine. Not only that he's great to golf with, though I think he cheats, or he's very forgetful. Seems to conveniently forget a shot or two on occasion.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Californiadecks said:


> See how easy that was? If your like me I call my plumber that way if there is ever any leaks his insurance will pay not mine. Not only that he's great to golf with, though I think he cheats, or he's very forgetful. Seems to conveniently forget a shot or two on occasion.


Phucking plumbers you can't trust them!


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

Widdershins said:


> You would cut the 4" cast iron below the floor (yes, there will have to be some demo and patch work on the first floor). You would then reduce the stack to 3" with a CP-43 shielded coupling, install a 3" C/O tee to be used as a test point and then stack a 3x2" Wye above the test tee. The 3" would go vertically up the wall to pick up the carrier and the 2" would go horizontally through the wall of the floor below before changing direction and transitioning to vertical in the adjacent stud bay.
> 
> Assuming this isn't the only bathroom in the house, the cross sectional requirement would have already been met by the other bathroom(s) and you would be free to yard out the oversized 4" VTR and replace it with a 2" VTR. Yeah, some demo of the ceiling/attic space of the 2nd floor is going to have to happen in order to make this work.
> 
> ...


You can't reduce the size of a stack, it has to remain undiminished through the roof, and increase one pipe size twelve inches below the roof penetration to prevent hoar frost.


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