# Baseboard to Metal Studs?



## MHMConstruction

posted this in another section:

*Baseboard to Metal Studs?* 
I'm running baseboard on a commercial remodel, and the new walls were all framed with metal studs/tracking.

what's the best way to fasten? I don't think my usual 2" finish nails in my little Porter Cable gun will do it.

or will it?

anyone?

MHM


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## In_Mexifornia

a 15 gauge finish nailer might work. If not maybe trim head screws or construction adhesive.


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## Celtic

Glue and shoot the nails at an angle...one this way / ; next this way \ .


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## AtlanticWBConst

Use trim head screws.

Links:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/screwlist.asp?sclass=tst

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1355

It's industry standard...


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## Chris Johnson

ET&F guns for steel studs and trim carpenters


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## C.C.R.

Celtic said:


> Glue and shoot the nails at an angle...one this way / ; next this way \ .


:thumbsup: That's the way to go. Construction adhesive and angle your nails. Don't aim for the studs just get the sheetrock. Thousands of feet of base never a problem :thumbsup:


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## Celtic

C.C.R. said:


> Thousands of feet of base never a problem :thumbsup:



That's comforting to know because I have only about 200' LF under my belt :thumbup:


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## mdshunk

Celtic said:


> That's comforting to know because I have only about 200' LF under my belt :thumbup:


Since I'm an electrician, people hardly ever ask me to install base trim. Good thing. Hard to say what it might look like.


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## send_it_all

C.C.R. said:


> :thumbsup: That's the way to go. Construction adhesive and angle your nails. Don't aim for the studs just get the sheetrock. Thousands of feet of base never a problem :thumbsup:


I use this method quite often, except instead of construction adhesive I use latex painters caulk. It's plenty strong and if it gets on the walls, you can actually remove it with a damp rag. Construction adhesive = not so easy to remove.


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## send_it_all

I actually ran a bunch of solid mahogany base at the Kodak Theater in Hollywood, where they hold the academy awards. They didnt want to see any fasteners, so we used a cleat on the wall with a 45* bevel screwed to the studs much like a hanging cleat for a wall cabinet. Then ripped the base with the opposing angle so it hooked onto the cleat. Then attached it with const. adhesive and carpenter's glue and used kickers held by a screw sticking out of a small hole in the ground to hold it until dry. It sucked out loud to do it that way, especially on curved walls.


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## Celtic

mdshunk said:


> Since I'm an electrician, people hardly ever ask me to install base trim. Good thing. Hard to say what it might look like.



I got mad skills :notworthy
You know that....being an electrician is what I do between learning new trades.


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## mickeyco

Construction adhesive, nails and carpenters glue on outside corners and dabs of hot melt glue every so many feet to act as a "clamp" while the construction adhesive is setting up, it stops the molding from pulling away from the wall or falling over.


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## firemike

mickeyco said:


> Construction adhesive, nails and carpenters glue on outside corners and dabs of hot melt glue every so many feet to act as a "clamp" while the construction adhesive is setting up, it stops the molding from pulling away from the wall or falling over.


I do mine the same way as Mickeyco, hot glue and construction adhesive (not a lot of adhesive, just enough to hold it on the wall) as you might be the one that has to take it off during the next remodel (been there, done that, learned the hard way!!!) Works like a charm and after a few pieces you get really quick at it too. Test fit the piece for flatness first, then you can see where you need the hot glue to hold it tight in the depressions.

I prefinish it when possible and only an occasional touch-up from a saw mark or scratch. No nail holes to worry about.


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## Celtic

First...accept the FACT that I'm a total hack at carpentry ~ only do it at my own home....moving on...



firemike said:


> Test fit the piece for flatness first, then you can see where you need the hot glue to hold it tight in the depressions.


Isn't that what caulk is for?


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## firemike

Celtic;2on...
47290 said:


> Isn't that what caulk is for?


:thumbup: :clap: :notworthy Sooooo True!!!

It's also considerably cheaper than Chico for seal-offs!


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## Celtic

firemike said:


> It's also considerably cheaper than Chico for seal-offs!


You stay on your side of the yard and I'll stay on mine ...LMAO.


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## Teetorbilt

Y'all can bite! How about the guy that has to come in for the remod?

I do an estimate based on general construction methods and then find out that somebody has glued trim. Bad news for me and the HO.

Hit the base and the studs, let the caulk do the rest. Pretty p*ss poor but better than adhesive that can ruin a wall.


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## AustinDB

commercial jobs I've come in behind have crewed the stained baseboard into the steel studs and filled and touched up the base. No adhesive on those jobs-I'm just reporting-but I did touch up in the same manner.


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