# Best backerboard



## spike8

Project is a small 6 X 9 bathroom, complete remodel. Using ceramic tile on floor, not the shower. 

Would like to try 1/2" DensShield as a backerboar on the floor because it looks so easy to use. Last use was Durock. Also considering Certaineed fiber cement board and Permabase cement board.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Any reason not to try the DensShield 1/2 on the floor? Thanks. Spike.


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## JazMan

I don't know how anyone could prove which of the dozens of backerboards are best, but when I think about it, Denshield does not come to mind. It will work, I used it for floors and walls some time ago. Its main attribute, easier and cheaper. I now use only Ditra membrane and try to avoid boards whenever possible.

You don't need 1/2" on floors unless you want the extra height. 

Jaz


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## angus242

I, too, no longer use CBU and go with Ditra.


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## reveivl

I've recently been using "Green e-board" which is an unfortunate and confusing name as it isn't green in colour, and has nothing to do with the old green drywall that didn't work for so many years.

It is not calcium based, but magnesium, and is apparently a waste product from some industrial process (hence the 'green' I guess), it is extremely light unlike most cbu, and easy to cut, score/snap, drill and scroll cut with hand or power tools.

You experts come across this stuff? ( I guess not, for anyone who has already gone with Ditra)


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## Splinter

A guy came through the other tile forum awhile back pushing a product called Magnesiacore... Same thing, made from post industrial waste. The guy met a lot of resistance because he made some really wild claims about the stuff. Said it was good for everything including eating it for breakfast.


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## Kyras

Durock= Okay, a bit prone to blowout on toenailed edges, nice and dense.
Wonderboard= Really hard and stiff, tough to nail through, really heavy.
Permabase= Handles well, stiff, nails well, use it a lot.
Hardiboard= Personally I don't trust it. Set it outside and watch it delaminate.
Denshield= Don't like that fiber dust. You can peel the surface off.
Easyboard= Never used it, I don't trust it anything I can put my fist through.

1/4" Permabase laminated with quality latex thinset. Used it for 10 years+ with no issues.

To each, his own.


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## srwcontracting

DITRA!!! No more dust or heavy lifting!:thumbup:


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## BuildersII

I've used hardibacker and denshield. Personally I like denshield as it's extremely easy to work with. Cut it like drywall and is certainly lighter than hardibacker.


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## spike8

*Thanks*

Thanks everyone for the thoughts and advice. I think I'm going to try the DensShield. Small floor only area. Water/mositure really not a problem. Ease of application probably the deciding factor for me. 
Thanks again, Spike


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## angus242

spike8 said:


> Ease of application probably the deciding factor for me.


You want ease? 

Cuts with a razor easier than cardboard. Lighter than _any _backboard. Much better uncoupling material than backerboard. No screws or nails to install. Vapor barrier. Has been manufactured and used since the mid 80's. 

*DITRA*


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## Winchester

reveivl said:


> I've recently been using "Green e-board" which is an unfortunate and confusing name as it isn't green in colour, and has nothing to do with the old green drywall that didn't work for so many years.
> 
> It is not calcium based, but magnesium, and is apparently a waste product from some industrial process (hence the 'green' I guess), it is extremely light unlike most cbu, and easy to cut, score/snap, drill and scroll cut with hand or power tools.
> 
> You experts come across this stuff? ( I guess not, for anyone who has already gone with Ditra)


I'm using this on a job right now. Good stuff.

I can't just use ditra since it's an outdoor job.


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## JazMan

Ditra is great for outdoors. What type of installation is it?

Jaz


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## Winchester

JazMan said:


> Ditra is great for outdoors. What type of installation is it?
> 
> Jaz


I've already been through all the details and talked with the schluter rep to make sure what everything I'm doing will still cover me under manufacturer's warranty.

According to local code I need a roofing membrane and ditra or kerdi don't count.

I have 2x8 @ 12oc spanning 6' -> 3/4 ply -> 1/2 CBU -> Jiffy Seal (roofing membrane) -> Ditra-Drain (drainage layer) -> Tile

Using Mapei Granirapid.


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## JazMan

OK, you've got a special situation and sounds like your local building department isn't familiar with alternative products and methods. But you're using Ditra, looks like. 

It sounded as if you were saying Ditra is not for outdoor use. :thumbsup:

Jaz


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## rossi inc.

I dont know why everyone goes nuts when a mfg co. introduces a new product.They make claims that these products are good for 50 years.but just started production.Stick with proven methods Durock or wonderboard screwed or nailed down ontop of 3/8 thinset.I have never seen concrete rot out in my 35 years!


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## JazMan

Hey Rossi,

What new unproven product or methods are you referring to? 

Wonderboard first made by Fin-Pan, came out in the early '70's, others followed soon after. Ditra was extensively tested then introduced in 1987, I believe they have only made one modification since. They all have a place. 

Jaz


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## rossi inc.

Hey Jaz,thanks for the feed back...There are suppliers offering tile adhesive products that allow ceramic tile to be bonded directly to linolium or wood flooring.Another one is hardi backer.Leave a pice out it the rain for an hour and see what it looks like.I wouldnt use it in my bathroom.A few years ago there was a mfg selling a gypsum based tile underlayment,looked exactly the same as 1/2 inch drywall complete with a papper exterior.As for schluter ditra,Lots of guys use it and have claimed to have no problem,so I am not saying that ALL of these products are inferior


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## angus242

rossi inc. said:


> Stick with proven methods Durock or wonderboard screwed or nailed down ontop of 3/8 thinset.I have never seen concrete rot out in my 35 years!


Rossi,

Even USG recently "updated" Durock. 

Use a waterproofing membrane and/or liquid and you keep moisture from getting the chance to rot anything out. That's why I don't worry about backerboards.

If I have a project such as a fireplace surround, I would choice Durock. Otherwise, skip the heavy, dusty backerboards all together and just use Ditra/Kerdi.


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## rossi inc.

Angus, I have seen some guys put a waterproof membrane over the durock in a custom shower.Is that an over kill in your opinion?I usualy install roofing papper over the studs-durock- then-tape and mud the seams and install the tile.Been doing it that way forever never had a problem.Thanx


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## JazMan

Angus will be back soon.

I prefer applying a surface membrane. I now only do Kerdi Membrane & Drain showers when I do a complete shower. The secret is the Kerdi Drain and how we do the floor and floor/wall intersections and curb. That is where most of the failures happen.

Your paper on studs is OK, but old school and doesn't compare to surface waterproofing. Methods and products have improved since that was the only choice. All you're doing with plastic or paper on studs is reducing vapor infiltration of the wall cavity. Does nothing for the backer or tile work.

Jaz


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## angus242

rossi inc. said:


> Angus, I have seen some guys put a waterproof membrane over the durock in a custom shower.Is that an over kill in your opinion?I usualy install roofing papper over the studs-durock- then-tape and mud the seams and install the tile.Been doing it that way forever never had a problem.Thanx


As usual, I agree with Jaz's comments.

As for being overkill? Perhaps. I personally don't do it but quite a few others will. To me, as long as the surface is being waterproofed, it's a lot less important what's under it. If you're comfortable with using Durock, go ahead. Is it needed? No.


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## jarvis design

I will have to agree with Angus, who is agreeing with Jaz!
I still use CBU - then Kerdi in all my custom showers

I personally like permabase for its ease of cutting and installation. I can also get it in 32x60, 36x60, and 4x8 sheets which is handy.


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## Winchester

JazMan said:


> OK, you've got a special situation and sounds like your local building department isn't familiar with alternative products and methods. But you're using Ditra, looks like.
> 
> It sounded as if you were saying Ditra is not for outdoor use. :thumbsup:
> 
> Jaz


Actually it's Ditra-Drain. It has weep holes in it :thumbup:


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## Winchester

rossi inc. said:


> Angus, I have seen some guys put a waterproof membrane over the durock in a custom shower.Is that an over kill in your opinion?I usualy install roofing papper over the studs-durock- then-tape and mud the seams and install the tile.Been doing it that way forever never had a problem.Thanx


Durock is not waterproof. Cementous backer boards absorb water.

You _should _use waterproofing of some kind.


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## cleveman

Anyone buying pallet loads of backer board direct from the manufacturer? Is it possible? I need about a pallet and a half and my retailer says I can't get a half pallet, only full pallet quantities. They mark the stuff up 20%. They don't stock 4x8 sheets, and this is why I'm special ordering. I need about 2000 SF.


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## JazMan

You can't buy direct from the manufacturer unless you're an official distributor. If you're a tile setter you buy it from your local distributor. Obviously they don't want to stock 4x8 and so you'll have to order by the full pallet, that's normal and makes sense.

Why on earth do you have to have 4x8? 

Jaz


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## cleveman

The 4x8's hang much faster on the walls, less joints. The 32x60's just seem stupid on anything but a tub surround. The 4x8's go much faster and less joints on wide open floors as well.


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## Winchester

cleveman said:


> The 4x8's hang much faster on the walls, less joints. The 32x60's just seem stupid on anything but a tub surround. The 4x8's go much faster and less joints on wide open floors as well.


My best prices I could find here for the 4x8 sheets was from a drywall distributor. Probably not as good of a deal as you're looking for but maybe they will be more negotiable.

Check your PM


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## R&D Tile

cleveman said:


> The 4x8's go much faster and less joints on wide open floors as well.


Save yourself a ton of time and aggravation and use Ditra on the floors.


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## CO762

Kyras said:


> Durock= Okay, a bit prone to blowout on toenailed edges, nice and dense.
> Wonderboard= Really hard and stiff, tough to nail through, really heavy.
> Permabase= Handles well, stiff, nails well, use it a lot.
> Hardiboard= Personally I don't trust it. Set it outside and watch it delaminate.
> Denshield= Don't like that fiber dust. You can peel the surface off.
> Easyboard= Never used it, I don't trust it anything I can put my fist through.
> 
> 1/4" Permabase laminated with quality latex thinset. Used it for 10 years+ with no issues.
> 
> To each, his own.


Good post. I've been steering away from hardibacker as it does seem to suck up water. I'm liking denshield and tolerate the dust, treating it like drywall (vac). Liking the CBUs for floors, ditching the HB. I'll use ditra if I have some concern with cracking, but then if given the choice I'll use an antfracture membrane over those and ditch the ditra.


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## angus242

CO762 said:


> given the choice I'll use an antfracture membrane over those and ditch the ditra.


Is that just an extra (costly and timely) step over just using Ditra?


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## CO762

angus242 said:


> Is that just an extra (costly and timely) step over just using Ditra?


No on both counts. 
I just see the cracks and run some anti-fracture over them, then set the floor. I only need one type of thinset, doesn't eat thinset, it's easy to mark, easy to trowel, and can use whatever type of tile/stone I want on top--all things that ditra doesn't allow.


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## NorthernSails

I wouldn't use DensShield or any other gypsum based product. It's basically glorified drywall and not exceptionally good. The reason why people like it is that it is light and easy to work with but it performs poorly. Take a piece and submerge it in water for a while and you'll see what I am talking about. On top of that they have to put chemicals in the paper backing to ensure that mold and fugus don't grow.

Cement and fibre cement boards perform way better than any gypsum based products. The unfortunate thing is that they are heavy and hard on tools. I would take HARDIBACKER over DuROCK any day but even HARDIE is a tough product to work with.

Someone mentioned GREENE-BOARD and MagnesiaCore. These are both Magnesuium Oxide based backer boards and the advantage they have over cement and gypsum is that they perform like cement (very well) but are light and easy to install like gypsum based boards. There is another one available as well called Dragon Board. What makes them all environmentally friendly is the recycled content in them and the lack of any chemicals.

In Canada I have to use GREENE-BOARD over the other two. I found MagnesiaCore brittle to work with anyways but on top of that GREENE-BOARD is the only CCMC evaluated magnesium board available in Canada. As well it is the only board with a CAN/ULC S135 non-combustibility test done on it.

So of all the boards I know of GREENE-BOARD would be my choice. HARDIEBACKER would be a good option if I wasn't able to get my hands on GREENE-BOARD just because I know it works well.


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## CO762

Winchester said:


> Durock is not waterproof. Cementous backer boards absorb water.
> 
> You _should _use waterproofing of some kind.


[....sigh....]

Unless it's a steam unit, millions of units have been installed w/o waterproofing of _any kind_ sans horizontals, 90s and pans.


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## CO762

NorthernSails said:


> ...DensShield...Take a piece and submerge it in water for a while and you'll see what I am talking about. On top of that they have to put chemicals in the paper backing to ensure that mold and fugus don't grow.


Denshield has a 'waterproof' coating on the face of it, so the only places where water s/b able to penetrate is at the seams/ends. On verticals, one needn't worry about it (but I take a 39 pail of waterproofing and do the seams anyway). Where it abuts a horzontal, those 90s are waterproofed with the same 39 pail of redgard/aquadefense waterproofing, but fabric is also embedded.

I bet they put the mold/fungicide in the backing as protection from those that don't do the seam waterproofing and/or a sales tool as 'mold' has been a hot topic for a while now. Sort of like all the bioblock stuff in "mud" and caulks.



> I would take HARDIBACKER over DuROCK any day but even HARDIE is a tough product to work with.


I've gone away from hardibacker, but still use it sometimes. I have a hardibacker cutter (shears) that's pretty slick. Around outside entrances, I often quickly paint down some of that $39/pail redgard/aquadefense or that billion dollar a bucket 9235. Don't have to, but I do a little bit extra.
I've gone back to the "durock/wonder board" on the floors due to me liking the smooth, flat surfaces--and having to tear up some floor that was rocked and tiled over.

Be interesting to see what the new rock is like.

I've used another product a lot in the past, but not recently as I've not done work on my own dime. I'm now all out of "leftovers" and work on my own dime, so I'm going to find it again. I'm amused that no one on any of the "tile/stone boards" mentions it. They don't have a large marketing arm though....so no hats, t-shirts or the like.


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## angus242

CO762 said:


> [....sigh....]
> 
> Unless it's a steam unit, millions of units have been installed w/o waterproofing of _any kind_ sans horizontals, 90s and pans.



And some now need replacing too. The old theory of not worrying about it is "good enough" for some. The newer theory of not letting moisture penetrate the tile substrate is a way to get a shower to last a lifetime, not just xx of years. 

There is absolutely nothing wrong with waterproofing a (non steam) shower area. You can call it overkill if you'd like. In the big picture, the cost and time of waterproofing is completely minimal compared to "just good enough". 

If it was truly "useless", the TCNA would not have spent the time testing, approving and publishing these materials and methods. But I suppose the TCNA is just another conspiracy, manufacter-loving, John Bridge marketing machine


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## WarnerConstInc.

CO762 said:


> No on both counts.
> I just see the cracks and run some anti-fracture over them, then set the floor. I only need one type of thinset, doesn't eat thinset, it's easy to mark, easy to trowel, and can use whatever type of tile/stone I want on top--all things that ditra doesn't allow.



Where do you find this info?


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## CO762

> The old theory of not worrying about it is "good enough" for some.


I didn't know it was "old". Following industry specifications are "old"?

Here, please contact them and tell them their stuff is "old". I'm sure they'd appreciate your instruction.



> Tile Council of North America, Inc. (TCNA)
> 100 Clemson Research Blvd.
> Anderson, SC 29625
> Phone: 864-646-8453
> Fax: 864-646-2821
> Outside U.S.
> Phone: +1-864-646-8453
> Fax: +1-864-646-2821





> The newer theory of not letting moisture penetrate the tile substrate is a way to get a shower to last a lifetime, not just xx of years.


"last a lifetime"? That's interesting. 



> Subject to the conditions and limitations as stated hereinafter, Schluter Systems L.P. warrants that Schluter-DITRA (the “Product”) will meet all composition and performance criteria for a period of five (5) years from the date of purchase only when the Product is used and installed in accordance with the terms and conditions of the Schluter-DITRA Installation Handbook and industry standard guidelines that are not in conflict with the Handbook.
> http://www.schluter.com/5897.aspx


So if "new" is to do work that will "last a "lifetime", why do you use a product that will only offer a guarantee of 5 years?

Did they just mention "industry standard guidelines"?
Don't they know all those rules, guidelines, and such are "old"?



> There is absolutely nothing wrong with waterproofing a (non steam) shower area. You can call it overkill if you'd like. In the big picture, the cost and time of waterproofing is completely minimal compared to "just good enough".


I've never met anyone that uses 100% solids epoxy grout on all their residential/homeowner installs.
Don't the homeowners complain about the stink?
How do you handle that? Do you explain to them that you won't do the "bare minimum" for them on their tub surround?
Do you charge more for your epoxy grout install also? Most do.

Good job. :thumbsup:


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## CO762

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Where do you find this info?


Can't use sheet as there are size limitations and a lot of floors use sheet for inlays. A lot of residential like the accents.

If you like the stuff and it works for you, then have at it. Just remember the size limitation when considering accents.


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## angus242

CO762 said:


> I've never met anyone that uses 100% solids epoxy grout on all their residential/homeowner installs.
> Don't the homeowners complain about the stink?


You must not have met a few of the tile installers on this very site. 

I use urethane. No stink :thumbsup:

I warranty all tile work a minimum of 10 years. You wouldn't understand. 

TCNA shows "old" methods as well as new. Apparently, you don't check the handbook. 

Why would you post Schluter's warranty? I said waterproof. You jumped to a Schluter conclusion pretty quick, eh?


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## ApgarNJ

CO762 said:


> I believe that in order to use kirdi, one must first put up some boards, say drywall, CBU, etc. Those are indeed fastened to the studs with nails/screws. (same with any bench)
> Once you square and plumb those, fasten then down, then you can now apply the kerdi over what you just stuck up.
> This is one of the things I try to tell people--in spite of being scolded/yelled at/namecalled/etc. If one uses denshield for a shower, one only has to put up the "walls" once.
> 
> And denshield is as "waterproof" as kirdi.
> 
> 
> 
> On floors, there are other underlayments that don't require any mechanical fastening, just "glue", same as some others. Foam comes to mind, but I prefer a different one. After this unit, I'm going to go back to using that on the work I do.
> 
> To each his/her own. Nothing is "the best" all the time in all situations. Everything has trade-offs.
> \
> But that's just me. :jester:


that was my slip. i meant ditra. so there is no screwing any board down before hand.
just over the subfloor with thinset under it

the nice thing about the kerdi installs i have seen is that you can use drywall, or paperless drywall for the whole bathroom and then just kerdi where the tile is going, no more running drywall around where the tile is going to leave room for tile backer board.
that is what makes alot of sense and saves time putting up bigger sheets of drywall


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## WarnerConstInc.

I was talking about easyboard, it is foam and is junk.

I have tiled showers using denshield but, the nail heads and seems always worried me.
It does hold up well to sitting outside, I have had a piece in my back yard for over a year.

I saw that rolled foam mat before.


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## CO762

ApgarNJ said:


> that was my slip. i meant ditra. so there is no screwing any board down before hand.
> just over the subfloor with thinset under it


There are other substrates that not only dont' require mechanical fastening (screws/nails), but don't require you to mix thinset for it....a different thinset that you'll be using to set, btw.....

But what the hey, I always carry at least two different kinds of thinset....



> the nice thing about the kerdi installs i have seen is that you can use drywall


So was there not a shower there to begin with?
If it's new construction, why put up drywall, then cover it with something to tile it? Why not just use denshield if you want waterproof? Or if you don't need to sell that BS to a homeowner, just use standard CBU?
Or easyboard? Or the new durock?

Put down that $80 plastic pan, hang your rock and tile away.
If they want "custom" work (shape/size), then (if you have the skills/knowledge) float the pan, paint on some hydroban/quadefense and go.

Sorry there's not a hat or some Marketing Machine, complete with legions of bot drones out there to back you on this, but really, it does work and work well........................



> no more running drywall around where the tile is going to leave room for tile backer board. that is what makes alot of sense and saves time putting up bigger sheets of drywall


I guess I've never had a problem with the drywall/rock transition.

Aren't most showers/tubs in an alcove anyway?
Oh well, do whatever you need to to get to where you want to be.......


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## ApgarNJ

most of my bathroom remodels require us to gut the walls. that's what clients want, it's just easier that way. i am all for the paperless drywall from GP and then i'll try to kerdi the tub/shower area. 

name me one product other than Ditra that allows you to uncouple from the subfloor and keep the tile from cracking or grout from cracking that doesn't require fasteners, once you screw it down, you are moving with the subfloor and could be potential for cracking down the road.

i don't know of any other product like ditra where you cut it, and thinset it down, and can immediately tile right over it.

i've used hardie for years but that is coming to an end. no more of that for me unless i need to build it up first. 

also, the DITRA XL adds more height incase you do need to be higher to meet the adjacent floor


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## CO762

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I was talking about easyboard, it is foam and is junk.


I've not used it.
Have there been a lot of failures using it?
Any?



> I have tiled showers using denshield but, the nail heads and seems always worried me.


I waterproof the seams and 90s, so I just daub some redgard/aquadefense on the nailheads anyway. Don't have to, but I do.



> It does hold up well to sitting outside, I have had a piece in my back yard for over a year.



Isn't there a "purple rock" that's exterior grade? EXP or something?
It's used on commercial jobs and may be takeing the place of the yellow rock used in commercial exteriors......



> I saw that rolled foam mat before.


It's expensive, but if the homeowner is footing the bill, it'd be a good sale.
But then again, w/homeowner work, it's all about the sizzle of the sale to the homeowner. That's where a lot of people (Americans anyway) can make their sale. What sux is laying it down flat.

I'd check out other methods/materials. Ya might have to go to other boards though as my experience over the last 5 years is the orange crush, truly does. Gotten a lot better at the jb forum tho.....int he last twoyears anyway.

Hockey game over, sat nite....off I go.

Check out other stuff.
Contact manufactures/distributors. They'll usually give you stuff for free to try.


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## angus242

There are pluses and minuses to all backer boards.

Some are heavy. Some are foam. Some are grey. Some are blue. Some are cement. Some are fiberglass. 

We get that. 

It depends on what your expectations are. It depends on what the logistics to your site are. It depends on what the budget is. 

There is no _one _best backer board. 

If you want to use any of them, including the orange stuff, go right ahead. 

I feel this thread has run its course. Unless anyone has something NEW to bring up, let it go quietly away.


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## CO762

ApgarNJ said:


> most of my bathroom remodels require us to gut the walls.


That's what I'm talking about. If you have to remove something down to the studs, then put something back up, then put something up over what you just put up before you can tile, why not just put up denshield "drywall" and after you stick it up, start tiling?
Shlooter found he wisdom/sense in this and now they offer their orange denshield board. That's now all the rage/style of the moment with their followers. What's the meaningful difference between shlooters denshield board and denshield? Nothing. May cost more and get an orange hat tho. 



> i am all for the paperless drywall from GP and then i'll try to kerdi the tub/shower area.


Kewl. Your job, so have at it. :thumbsup:
I won't go around telling people your job "will fail" or similar BS. 
If it works and that's what you like, then by all means, do it.



> name me one product other than Ditra that allows you to uncouple from the subfloor and keep the tile from cracking or grout from cracking


Yahoo search "anti-fracture membrane".

But like I've said, that whole "uncoupling" sales pitch is nothing but marketing BS that people can use on homeowners. It's a crock.
It isn't?

Then I've not familiar with the millions of SF of floors that have been set on CBU that failed. Care to share? I'll help ya--check out the tile/stone trade publications, trade websites, etc. All these "failures" due to not being able to "uncouple" from the floor should be readily available to cut and paste here.
I look forward to seeing what you've found. Who knows, it may just save us all from our constant failures at not using shlooter stuff..... 

BTW, what were they using before deetra was manufactured for sale again? And no, not all floors were floated, be they floating or bonded.
One may be surprised at just how many floors were and still are put down over concrete. I walked into a new Kohl's dept store yesterday and their tile was really, really nice, tho they needed to profile the edges they cut over the joints in the slab.
Anyway...



> that doesn't require fasteners


Do a yahoo search of "anti-fracture membrane" and you'll see a few pages of them. 



> once you screw it down, you are moving with the subfloor and could be potential for cracking down the road.


Like I've always said, deetra is a "severe duty anti-fracture membrane".
If not, why all the concern about needing to separate the tile from the floor with the shlooterites?
Just may be me, but I like to have a solid subfloor before I set anything.
I'd imagine the tca spec's are the same for all tile/stone?
And deetra's subfloor differs from other spec's how? From what I recall, everything is the same. So if a CBU won't crack, deetra won't crack, no?



> i don't know of any other product like ditra where you cut it, and thinset it down, and can immediately tile right over it.


Bummer for you.



> i've used hardie for years but that is coming to an end. no more of that for me unless i need to build it up first.


If that's the way you want to roll, then have at it.



> also, the DITRA XL adds more height incase you do need to be higher to meet the adjacent floor


If that's what you do, then have at it.


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## ApgarNJ

ok bud. for the FACTS. I have stated that all of my tile floors have been set on a hardie or durock surface. I have started to read up on the schluter system and I believe that its a better faster way of doing it. It's one thing to go back a few years later and see no cracks but what about 10 or 15 or 20 years later, will the tile floor set over cement backerboard on the subfloor still be ok or will the grout be cracked in spots or possibly tiles?

i'm not here to argue, you do what you want to do. I don't care for your attitude as I have not been on here pushing for everyone to use schluter. I am simply saying I'm interested in using it on my next tile project. I am a renovator. I don't tile for a living but I am fully capable of doing most of my tile jobs myself because it's something I enjoy doing instead of hiring a sub for it.

I believe we are talking about the same thing when you use densshield. it's just easier to use Dense Armor and do the whole room in that. and lay out your tile where you need to. I simply want to try and use the kerdi on a shower wall if it saves me time and it's a better overall system than just using say hardie backer and tiling over it. like angus has stated in these threads there are many ways of doing things, not one wrong or one right way for everyone. you just have a problem with someone doing something other than the way you do it. 
that's not my problem.

this thread has run it's course and should just be closed down. i'm not a person that forces anyone to use schluter because it's totally new to me and i look forward to using it in the future. having said that, no one has called me back for the many tile jobs I did over hardie board for showers or floors. some may fail, some might not. i'm not sure. i am all for finding new and proven methods of doing our jobs better and providing a higher quality for the long term for anyone that might own that house.


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## WarnerConstInc.

I just use liquid nails for everything.


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## ApgarNJ

I use elmers "glue all" it says it's for gluing all. so i tried it in a shower and well. it doesn't glue all. i found if i mixed it with super glue, it held up until I was at least down the road a ways. 


i wish it came in caulk tubes.


haha


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## angus242

ApgarNJ said:


> this thread has run it's course and should just be closed down.



Agreed :thumbsup:

Thanks for playing.


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