# Scratched travertine



## JTW (Jan 22, 2009)

Ok so they woork is done in the house and there are some scratches in the travertine"Noche AlpaKa" kind of medium brown. It is a honed/filled product. What is the best way to minimize or get rid of the scratches? When the countertop guys were installing I asked him if he could touch up a couple of these spots where the floor sander(from the wood floor transition) had hit the edge, he used a high speed polisher and what looked to be a dark colored wax or paste. it seemed to minimize this spot, but that was only on the edge of a couple tiles. The ones I am refering to are in the middle of tiles, things like, plumbers boots scratching tile when installing baseboards and kickte heaters...

Also as a side note, would you guys say that the travertine is more snsitive to cracking than other materials? No broken tiles, but I see what looks like stress cracks that look like a vein going across tiles(this is not a natural line).


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## Shaughnn (Aug 3, 2005)

Hello JTW,
Scratches in honed material can sometimes be worked out using a palm sander with varied grits of paper. I've found that I can often match the finish of most honed material with a 400 grit paper, though you might need to work it wet? Experiment on some scrap tile after scratching it with a utility knife or your truck keys.
The cracking is another issue entirely. What's the method of installation for this floor? What's the underlayment and the construction of the substrate? Travertine is pretty durable stone, but all stone is more susceptible to stress fractures than porcelain or ceramics. Does the "crack" follow the line of the sublfoor panel? Does it match the joint of the underlayment board used?
Shaughnn
PS: Do yourself a favor and find a supplier for USG's "Fiberock Floor Protector Paper". It's a heavy-duty carbon-less product which I use to cover ALL of my finished floors during construction and it will stand up to weeks of boot traffic if taped down well at the perimeters. Because it's carbonless, there's no danger of it leaving marks on the floor but it will still hold up reasonable well to getting wet without falling apart or staining, like rosin paper will. I pay about $20 for a 300 sq ft roll and it's well worth the investment.


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## MattCoops (Apr 7, 2006)

I'd remove the tile and replace before I'd start messing with sanding and polishing. It will get done quicker, easier, and will ultimately look better.
It sounds like a pain to remove tile on a finished surface, but believe me when you start grinding and sanding it will be more of a painstaken task.


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

> Also as a side note, would you guys say that the travertine is more snsitive to cracking than other materials? No broken tiles, but I see what looks like stress cracks that look like a vein going across tiles(this is not a natural line).


Travertine floor tile being a natural stone product requires special attention be paid to the construction of the substrate. Maximum deflection limits exist. The Marble Institute of America publishes all the required information. A wise GC undertaking or overseeing a natural stone installation on one of his projects would be wise to bone-up on the subject.


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## JTW (Jan 22, 2009)

Indeed, same old story got to busy and trust all was done properly! Seems as though some of the stress cracks are in places that I beleive are seems for the Hardibacker(@ 3 or 5ft). This was a remodel, we built up over an exististing slab w/2 x 8 and decked with 3/4" advantech. Then 1/4 Hardi. If this is occuring @ the seams what would be the best way to correct once I remove the effected tiles. IS there any trick to "popping tiles other than the obvious break and chip? As always thanks again!


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## StoneRenew (Feb 26, 2009)

It needs to be honed with Diamond resin pads that fit on a backer pad which fits right on a Milwaukee or Makita Hand grinder. Most Travertine comes out of the factory at 400 or 800 grit. Taking out those tile is not any easier then re-honing the tile. But since you dont know how that might be the best bet. If there is a lot of scratch's all over...I know some guys in your area that like me  are Stone Restoration guys. The whole floor just might need done. Good Luck


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## JTW (Jan 22, 2009)

It is primarily a scrape hear and there, most are a none issue, but a few are not cool!


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Dude you really got to look into protective floor coverings if you're going to put finished flooring down first then bring in different trades. There are threads with many websites on ct. I'd go with a call to a stone restoration guy like suggested and chalk the $ to a lesson learned.


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## JTW (Jan 22, 2009)

Agreed, but lets just say the plumber was not on schedule, oh, maybe a schedule somewhere??? I almost wonder if he should pay fo the repairs!!!!!


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## Shaughnn (Aug 3, 2005)

I include this in all of my contracts.

"Repair of preparation materials or finished product will be paid for by responsible parties"

Shaughnn


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