# New Drywall tape??



## Tim0282 (Dec 11, 2007)

Brockster said:


> Take a look at their website and look at the first butt joint on the ceiling in the picture. Is that a huge hump where the tape is?


Based on the thickness of the tape, I sure don't think you could use it on a butt joint. It is supposed to be the thickness of the depth of the recession on the flat. Don't really see the advantage. Hard to beat the old spark perforated, two and one sixteenth inch wide, joint tape, that has been proven a few times by all of us in the last forty or so years. Sure hard to teach an old dog like me a new trick.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

*Introduction*

This is my first experience joining a forum, so I hope I don't screw it up. I am the inventor of the Pronto™ Joint Tape. I'll put that out there right in front. But I didn't join the forum to sell anything, you can be sure.

I am hoping to learn from all of your experiences and, if you want, answer any questions about the product or the experiences I have had with it. (or out company)

But most of all, I really think that it will be people like you that help me learn more and give recommended uses.

If you allow me, I will participate in the forum. If at any time you feel I have not lived up to my promise to not "sell" just answer as best I can any questions... kick me out.

Just reading through this thread has taught me alot. 

I hope you will give me a chance to learn from you.

Thank You,

Mike


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## theblones (Dec 14, 2007)

hi pronto.
i emailed you before about the availability of your product in uk. I understand that it is early days yet to be supplying uk. 
I am looking at the tape on the video and how you use it. It does seem thicker than traditional tape can you tell me how it is better than say wet n stick. and the rolls are allot smaller than a traditional roll and priced allot higher why is this and also is it all hand applied or can you get a machine to lay it on. also can you join the tapes together on a run or do u need a full length for every drop, dont be modest you have done your reseaRCH GOT UP OF YOUR ARSE AND PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS and i want to know lots about this stuff. ps sorry for capitals it were a accident maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

theblones,

I'll try to answer the questions as best I can...

The tape is thicker in the center, as you point out. It is typically .045". It was done this way for two reasons. First, to best match the average size of a factory joint, and, second, to best mimic the thickness of the first coat of compound including the paper tape. 

Part of the reason for the roll being only 100ft is because of the thickness. The diameter of the full roll is almost 7 inches (sorry I can't do a quick calc to meters!) and it weighs just under 4 pounds (again don't know equivalent kilos!) I really should learn those facts.

Pronto is made from a combination of polymers and adhesives. Those materials cost alot more than the typical paper and joint compound.

I honestly don't know that much about the Wet-N-Stick tape. I have only heard anecdotal remarks from contractors. I am afraid that if I remark either way it will look like I am trying to sell my product, and I want to be careful of that.

Thanks for your questions. I look forward to more of them from both you and the rest of the participants.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Oh yeah, on on the equipment question. I have contacted/spoken with/ reach out to at least three drywall tool guys to ask for their help. Almost every contractor I talk to asks about the equipment and we really aren't in that business. I want there to be a tool. One gentleman I am working with (a drywall contractor) is going to try to use some existing corner tools and get back to me.

Sorry I missed it in the first post.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

would there be any interest from the forum group in me posting questions that I get either over the hotline or from tapers and contractors I meet with and the answers or discussions that come from them?

let me know as I would be happy to do it.


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## prairiewinds (Sep 9, 2007)

to prontoguy i would sure like to try this and even if it quite expensive it dont do much if a guy cannot buy it anywere


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## Drywalller (Jan 2, 2007)

Hi Prontoguy,

I just read your ad in walls & Ceilings Magazine,It does sound interesting.
I use mesh tape and durabond for all my taping as this saves a step in the taping process.
My questions are How much does it cost?
How much thicker is it compared to regular tape?
How long after applying tape do you have to wait to coat it?
How does the adhesive work.I couldnt get the video on your website to go,So maybe alot of these questions would have been answered if it did work.
In the wall & ceiling mag your offering a free roll to try,I would like to try it.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Please be patient with me (us)... the International Builders Show in FL and INTEX EXPO in Vegas gave me more exposure than I anticipated and we are trying hard to keep up with demand. We have affiliates in your area and I am looking into seeing when we can get it out there. I apologize for the delay... I am dealing with the same problems from guys in New Zealand and Europe, Australia and South America.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Drywaller,

Typical paper tape is about 5 to 6 mils (.005 - .006 inches) without any joint compound behind or on top of it. Pronto joint tape is .045 inches thick in the center and tapers to the edges. 

The adhesive on the back is a pressure sensitive adhesive that has enough initial strength to position, and re-position, it on the wall before putting the joint compound on it. It builds peel stregnth over the first few days after being on the wall.

You can coat joint compound on it immediately. We recommend going lighter on the amount than typical for the first coat as you don't need as much joint compound as with paper tape or mesh for the first pass.

If you can't get the video to work on our site try going on youtube and searching for Pronto Joint Tape.

The recommend price per 100 ft roll is around $25 (USD)

To get a free roll call the phones number in the add ( believe it is 888-5PRONTO) and they can give you the details on the offer, and take you info.

Hope that helps.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

prontoguy. 

has the tape been tested for shear and board movement? For conditions like truss uplift? and compared side by side in laboratory conditions with paper tape in the same conditions? some of the home with larger rooms experience structural movement. perhaps you have seen this with common paper tape with one edge of a corner breaking bond with the drywall. have you tested with similar conditions? Also are you confident enough in your product to warranty it against the board to tape bond failing? Does the adhesive perform the same on blue board, green board and purple board? can oil based paints interact detrimentally with the adhesive? 

also I find the graphic on one of the web pages a bit misleading. (twelve buckets of compound versus six pails of compound shown in the graphic) In my opinion is is not possible to save half of the joint compound by using your product. That is unless the volume of the tape itself displaces the equivalent in drywall compound. Do you agree?


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## OilersFan (Apr 11, 2008)

Pronto, can it be used for angles, and if not, how does the overlap of paper tape over your product turn out?

Are you selling this in Canada?


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Al,

Great questions. Forgive me if I take a bit of your time to answer.

First, we have done alot of lab testing to best mimic the conditions you are talking about. We have done what we can "deflection" testing which pushes outward from behind the finished joint to simulate movement of the board away from the studs (my layman's understanding of what would cause nail pops) and also we did constant load testing cycled through cold and hot, wet and dry conditions. 

For the deflection testing, due to the flexible nature of the product, we saw a 1.5X improvement (deflected further) over paper tape before we saw a crack happen, and 2X improvement over mesh tapes.

For the constant load, whe stopped the test at 1000hrs since we didn't see any failure against the paper tape control.

As we learn more about the different forces the joint is subject to we develop more of these tests to best mimic conditions.

For the truss lift, which has come up as a question, it appears to be a combination of both tensile (pulling up) and shear (pulling over - or left-right) and the guy in the lab is working on a single test to see what he can come up with. I am not convinced that two separate test results can be combined to give a "true" picture. Best test for this one is on an actual application. That being said, two separate contractors took Pronto for that very reason (one who had been back to the job three times already) and were going to call me if they had any problems. They haven't called, but I am going to follow up with them to be sure.

I will post to this forum when they do.

Pronto will work on all board types, mainly because the long term bond is reinforced from the bond made from the joint compound through the perforation. Also, because, as the joint compound shrinks- it shrinks "around" Pronto not through- this actually pulls the Pronto closer to the wall and makes the repositional bond stronger. We haven't had any issues sticking to different boards.

Paint will not interact with Pronto. It has been specially formulated to accept primer and paint.

We are confident about the mud savings. Both from a volume calculation (guys in the lab always want it to be scientific) and from watching it in actual use. The majority of the joint compound now is used to fill up that recessed joint. Pronto does most of that work.

We have actually seen, based on the brand of board you use, up to 60% less joint compound needed. But not all boards have the same recess so I didn't want to make that a broad claim.

Hope this answered your questions.

Oh yeah, and the warranty is the standard industry warranty. We learned early on that these are the greens fees and couldn't come to market without them so you can be sure we are behind the product.

Mike


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Oilersfan,

Yes Pronto can be used in the corners. Our plan is to sell in Canada, however, we have not set up any distributors there yet. But please be patient as we are going to.

If you call the hotline at 888-5PRONTO you can help us in that regard by sending us in the direction of your current supplier.

MC


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## sandman25 (Mar 15, 2008)

I own a Drywall business in edmonton alberta Canada and talked to Amanda just now....
Let the little contractors test this so we talk to our suppliers if this is a good product or not....That is were the key is the little fish in the sea.......
You be amazed what we can do in that regard...to getting suppliers to do there job...

Guy


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## jett_painting (Oct 27, 2005)

On standup joints when you have a bad stud, and one sheet is already protruding a bit farther than the other, I would think that the higher profile would make a bigger hump to float.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

jett_painting said:


> On standup joints when you have a bad stud, and one sheet is already protruding a bit farther than the other, I would think that the higher profile would make a bigger hump to float.


 
The only experience I can speak to that would related to this would be the "offset" joints that we have done. Again, forgive me if the terminology is not what you all would use but I had to call them something to our people so we could understand. For me an offset joint is one that has a cut edge to a factory edge, which would give might relate to the "protruding" that you talk about. I wouldn't know for sure until I came across it or actually looked for a bad stuc to use on purpose.

Since Pronto as a profile, and the outside edges are thinner than the center, for something like this we recommending that you also "offset" the tape, lining up the center of the tape into the recessed area. For us that seems to work. And by "us" I mean myself, our lab guy, and a bunch of pro contractors that worked with it and put it through the ringer to see if there was something it would be terrible at. 

By the way... if anyone has tried Pronto and has any recommendations on what would work better, please let me know what they are. I am not a taper (don't even play one on TV) so anything I share here is just what I have learned. And I am the first to admit that I have a lot more to learn.


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

Pronto- All I hear is blablabla, if you've read through this forum than you know who would use your product so send a few rolls out to be tried by trusted forum members...


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Brockster,

Thanks for the guidance. I didn't want to ask for people's contact info in the forum. Again, I am new at this type of communication. If anyone in the forum calls the 888-5 PRONTO, we are running a "Do a room on us" special (I believe it is in Construction Dimensions this month) where you can get 2 free rolls. 

I sensed from the forum that some people had tried and didn't get through and so I am following up on it.

And you wouldn't be the first to hear "blablabla" when I write or speak. I think I should list it as a second language. (if I knew how to add those smileys I would probably do that right here)


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## sandman25 (Mar 15, 2008)

Brookster,,,Good job you hit the nail right on the head....
Called that # all i heard was bla....bla.bla...he is not hear right now....he will get back to you.....
Looks like they are scared to have us testing it......


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

I will go back tonight to see one of the tests I did on Thursday of last week. 

The only thing I can add that differs is that I couldn't get a clean cut with just my drywall knife(mud knife) I had to use my razor knife, but it cut cleanly and easily. With the drywall knife, it just stretched and tore.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

kgphoto said:


> I will go back tonight to see one of the tests I did on Thursday of last week.
> 
> The only thing I can add that differs is that I couldn't get a clean cut with just my drywall knife(mud knife) I had to use my razor knife, but it cut cleanly and easily. With the drywall knife, it just stretched and tore.


I noticed a bit of tearing too but i reasoned it was because of the built in taper the tape had. Once I firmly planted the blade of the knife into the tape it tore cleanly. Another technique I will try to help with the problem I had cleanly setting the tape into an inside corner. I will see if i can find my old inside corner two sided knife i gave up using some 28 years ago. That would work well to guide the tape into the corner without having to tuck it in with a blade and risk cutting it.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

Brockster said:


> Also, mesh tape hardly sticks to *durabond*, how does your tape stick to it? In real world we get joint blow-outs that needs to be prefilled. I know Smith said he did not prefill but I'd be more comfortable using this or any product over prefilled surfaces.


did you mean Durock? or Durabond?
My experience has been that Durabond brand setting type joint compound sticks to everything and drys like automotive bondo. Mesh tape and durock cement board however have always been a problem for me with the mesh falling off before i can coat it.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Prontoguy, this product is looking interesting. Looking foward to trying it out.

AW, You can borrow mine.:tongue_smilie:


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## sandman25 (Mar 15, 2008)

*Free TAPE IS EXPENSIVE*

Well call that # that was on the post.....to get free tape..Amanda said that Chad would get back to me....well no call back for a week....Then email Mike and he said he would send out some of his FREE TAPE.......
Well got a call from UPS......They will not release the FREE TAPE unless I pay broker fee........+ + +

$19.45 for brokers
Gov charge $5.85
At the door charge of $4.25
Plus others fees from the gov she replied that she could calculate at the time...

Wow $29.85 plus other unknow fees from gov

Now that is what I call FREE TAPE........

Told them they could send the tape back to the company and charge them double.......

Freeeee Tape 
Yeah
Keep it


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## Tim0282 (Dec 11, 2007)

sandman25 said:


> Well call that # that was on the post.....to get free tape..Amanda said that Chad would get back to me....well no call back for a week....Then email Mike and he said he would send out some of his FREE TAPE.......
> Well got a call from UPS......They will not release the FREE TAPE unless I pay broker fee........+ + +
> 
> $19.45 for brokers
> ...



What country are you in, Sandman??
Haven't you ever gone to the courthouse to pick up a free landowners hunting or fishing license? Try it some time.
Kinda stinks when they say free. I always thought free was no cost. Silly me...


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

Tim0282 said:


> What country are you in, Sandman??
> Haven't you ever gone to the courthouse to pick up a free landowners hunting or fishing license? Try it some time.
> Kinda stinks when they say free. I always thought free was no cost. Silly me...


 
He's in Canada. Government "Free trade" problems I suppose. If it wasn't invented or manufactured in Canada, They don't want you bringing it in over the border without paying a penalty.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

For anyone in the forum asking for samples to be shipped to Canada... I am encountering some problems getting samples over there "free of charge".

I am working on a solution so please be patient with me.

Of the over 100 samples that have been sent throughout the US I haven't had anyone call with a problem.

Thank you for understanding.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

My good friend is a chemist at National Starch.

I will get to the bottom of this ASAP and report back to you guys.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

OK. My buddy says that he has used it and it does work as advertised. Granted, he is a chemist and not a drywaller, but he'd tell me if it was a flop. He knows the guy that came up with it as a matter of fact. Small world.

He is on business in Switzerland but is going to see what he can do to get me some samples from National Starch.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

I got my samples fast and free. Of course, I don't live in Canada.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

Went over to the school and the day classes didn't put the rest of the coats on the tape, so I have to check next week on Thursday.


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## Tapingfool (Feb 28, 2008)

*pronto tape*

Wow!! this seems like a popular thread!! glad I started it..it's great to get everyones opinion, being in the trade for decades gives people different perspectives. I just e-mailed pronto, and hope to get 2 rolls (pronto):laughing:!!

i wonder how it will work in sub freezing temps 32 and under..35 is over freezing..I sometimes have to use my trusty propane heater, if I can save money heating the job up and running the tape then coating it, and then heating it once, I save money and time..and make more $$$..we shall see..looking forward to getting the rolls soon!!thanks pronto..

BTW..looking to hire any part time field demonstrators in the NNJ area??


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

I have two free rolls due in tomorrow @ 18 lumber but don't have a drywall job to use them on yet. Had a kitchen and living room ceiling quote out in Sayreville two weeks ago that would have been perfect for the tape but I think I overbid.


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

*Pronto Application Temperature*

I spoke to the guy in the lab and he was very firm in his requirements for low application temperature. 50F and above for application. Here are his exact words, 
"Pronto is definitely NOT capable of being applied at 35F. That is a temperature where the PSA will not have any tack or wet out. "

On the plus side, 

"Pronto can be stored at this temperature without a problem. Pronto can survive being on a wall at this temperature. It just can't be applied at this temperature."

Hope this helps.

Pronto


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

A W Smith said:


> Mesh tape and durock cement board however have always been a problem for me with the mesh falling off before i can coat it.


This is why I'm asking if he or anybody have tried the tape over Durabond.:thumbsup:


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

prontoguy said:


> I spoke to the guy in the lab and he was very firm in his requirements for low application temperature. 50F and above for application. Here are his exact words,
> "Pronto is definitely NOT capable of being applied at 35F. That is a temperature where the PSA will not have any tack or wet out. "
> 
> On the plus side,
> ...


Five stars for Honesty!:thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

prontoguy, Thanks. I received my tape today. I will be trying it out tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## prairiewinds (Sep 9, 2007)

got my 2 rolls of free tape and tryed it out i love on the flat joints but dont like it in the angles does i havent done any butts joints with it yet either my biggest concern is the cost on getting it here in canada also got 2 find some kind of spool holder because it is quite auckward to apply by yourself unless you can have a extra hand to cut the tape without laying on the floor


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

Mine came today as well. I have a double WIC closet reno next week that this will be perfect for. 

Has anyone tried it on an off-angle yet?

I cut off a small piece and stuck it on the wall in my basement just to test out the tack. I'm impressed thus far. For smallish jobs, I can see this being completely worth the higher material cost due to time savings provided the results are as advertised. 

After speaking with Mike at Pronto, I think this has huge potential from the standpoint of the National Starch backing. These development guys are hardcore scientists. They didn't cook up this product in their basement unlike most drywall products. Don't be fooled, taping and mudding is all science when it comes to adhesion, drying, curing, shrinking etc...


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

*What to do about corners?*

Need your help. I have heard mixed opinions on Pronto in the corners. I have watched guys tape the corners using other types of products, including regular tape and other tapes, like the straightflex types.

For those of you who have used Pronto on the corners... a couple of things:

1. What are your biggest concerns?

AND

2. How would you apply Pronto in the corners to make it work (short of using a tool - which I am trying to work on now.)?

Is there a trick you would recommend? Is there something you would stay away from?

We have our "recommended use" for the corners but I feel like that is asking a fool for his opinion (with me being the fool of course!)

Thanks for your help.


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## theblones (Dec 14, 2007)

let me help brother, the difference between applying the pronto tape and drywall tape is the joint compound isnt immediately permanant. ie you can adjust it and it will slide into place. i assume pronto sticks like a mesh tape. also it needs a groove so it can fold. or a thin plastic bead through the center so you have summat to push into the corner. when folded the tape would fold over this bead. so maybe that and an adhesive that behaves like drywall mud. i would love to use it with the monster mesh. if i've been helpful send me a roll over the uk. i got a big mouth and people listen to my opinions..do they?


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## theblones (Dec 14, 2007)

yeah maybe i talked rubbish there


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## OCRS (Apr 29, 2008)

I don't know if this is the same stuff I tried, but it seem to stick well. It's like working with a banjo (don't know what it's called in the states) but without the box and the mess. Just water dripping. I didn't try in the corners though. I think it wouldn't hold it's shape. Kinda like trying to fibatape corners.


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## TooledUp (May 1, 2008)

Hi people. My first post here, looking forward to joining in 



theblones said:


> yeah maybe i talked rubbish there


Nahh (well mostly lol). You hit the nail on the head. The problem is going to be that you're going to struggle to position the tape. I haven't used it but I can't see anyone being able to apply it at any great speed, even after some experience with it.

I note from the web site that it already has a crease on the tape so maybe that makes it a little easier but for the most part you really need that bit of slide for positioning.

I have a question for prontoguy:

Why is the reel the shape it is?

When hand applying tape I imagine it's going to make it clumsy to work with. Circular cardboard inserts work well with regular tape - Just 'rolls off your hand' whereas it looks as though the shape you have for the reel is just going (I imagine) to get in the way.

Apart from that, I would think the design would also make it more difficult for any tool manufacturer to come up with a working design for application as it is just now.

Does it really need to be on a reel? If not, surely losing the packaging would reduce the end cost of the product too?


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

Thanks for the question about the reel. Was wondering if anyone was going to ask. Here are the reasons, beside of course it looking pretty cool!

1. Safety - when people are on stilts doing a ceiling they can use the flat side to brace themselves for balance. We are a "safety culture" company and this aspect comes from us wanting to always consider how our products are used and how we can make the use safer.

2. Stability of the roll - After watching people use early prototypes of a round roll and watching the roll do just that- roll away- even just a few feet, which we saw it as annoying- so we made it so it wouldn't roll away when placed down.

3. Protection- Since Pronto has tapered edges, we want to protect those edges from getting damaged before you get a chance to put it up on the wall. 

4. Future designs - One of the plans is to make the inside spool roll while the hex flanges stay stationary. This way you can put it on a tool or pull it off of the roll without it rolling away.

5. Because I am "different" than most people - Rolls are round, that's normal. I am not normal (though I am round -my wife is a great cook-) so I couldn't do the round roll and sleep at night.:thumbsup:


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

*Keep It simple*

Mike.
On your packaging. I use stilts and have never once braced myself with a roll of tape. stilts are very easy to walk on, you would be very surprised. I have even climbed up and down stairs with them. Want me to bring my pair up to you in Bridgewater to try on? Very rarely have rolls of tape rolled away from me. I think there is a growing consensus here that the packaging is cumbersome. which I had pointed out in my review. I realize that because of the very nature of the tape, That it is tapered and thus does not coil up in to a tight roll presents the packaging problem. I was thinking a dispenser similar to this photo below. But make that metal blade interchangeable with a "V" blade to press the tape into the inside corners. Instead of the bulky heavy cardboard and metal spool use poster board paper and a nylon spool.


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## TooledUp (May 1, 2008)

Yeah I can see your points about the safety issues for stilts etc. I'm not really convinced that it'll help sell the tape though. Personally, I would have gone for a practical design purely for the 'speed factor'. Like Al said in the post above, I've never had to steady myself on a roll of tape and I can't remember seeing anyone else doing so. That's just my opinion though maybe others will differ. I can see your problem with protecting the tapered edges though.



> 4. Future designs - One of the plans is to make the inside spool roll while the hex flanges stay stationary. This way you can put it on a tool or pull it off of the roll without it rolling away


Why the need to have a 'rolling' center? Tools such as the MonsterMesh and fiber tape dispensers already have a wheel that the tape slots onto which turns. Invent a tool that has a similar function and maybe a seperate thing that just slots into the center of the roll that will turn for hand application? I wouldn't imagine a plastic one would cost very much to manufacture. Sell it for a nominal few $ or put a free one in each case. That way you aren't adding to the cost of the tape ($25.00 a roll will still take a lot of people a fair bit of convincing).


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## TooledUp (May 1, 2008)

A W Smith said:


> Mike.
> I was thinking a dispenser similar to this photo below. But make that metal blade interchangeable with a "V" blade to press the tape into the inside corners. Instead of the bulky heavy cardboard and metal spool use poster board paper and a nylon spool.


 
Or...

(whoops I can't post the photo - The following errors occurred when this message was submitted:

You are only allowed to post URLs to other sites after you have made 15 posts or more.
lol)

it's at technologyvault (dot) co (dot) uk/junk/tape.jpg if someone with more than 15 posts cares to insert it lol

That has a roller to push the tape into the corner the same as a bazooka (Works with a trigger).


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)




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## TooledUp (May 1, 2008)

Thanks Al :thumbsup:

Actually, I just looked at my own mesh dispenser, which is similar design to that one. The trigger is for the serrated cutting blade. The roller is held in place by push clips, forward or at rest (shows how much attention I pay to details lol).


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

prontoguy said:


> 1. What are your biggest concerns?
> 
> AND
> 
> 2. How would you apply Pronto in the corners to make it work (short of using a tool - which I am trying to work on now.)?


Since it is a little stiff, it gets stuck to the side walls as you push it in, so you have to work fairly hard to get it in. Perhaps a tool that gave you more leverage and shaped it to the corner would be a help. Add a blade to cut it to length at the end and you would be golden.


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## theblones (Dec 14, 2007)

maybe the monster mesh applicator has a plate to the side of it to protect the tapered edges


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## sammy11011 (May 9, 2008)

i tried the dust control mud and noticed it shrink a lot
becareful


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## Tapingfool (Feb 28, 2008)

sammy11011 said:


> i tried the dust control mud and noticed it shrink a lot
> becareful


how much water did you use?:sad:


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

*Recommendation on the corner*

All,

I got a question/recommendation from someone about using a No-Coat inside 90 corner roller to put up Pronto in the corners. Is anyone familiar with this tool or have had a chance to use it on Pronto?

Also, I have a prototype "tape dispenser" on my desk that fits a roll of Pronto on it, but it doesn't have the corner bevel jig. 

Rest assured we are talking to the people we need to about the tool. But it wouldn't hurt if you started lighting fires under them from the distributor stand point. The more voices heard the easier to listen.

Thanks for any responses.


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## TooledUp (May 1, 2008)

prontoguy said:


> All,
> 
> I got a question/recommendation from someone about using a No-Coat inside 90 corner roller to put up Pronto in the corners. Is anyone familiar with this tool or have had a chance to use it on Pronto?


A corner roller may help push it into the corner but it still needs positioning fairly well before it's rolled out. The difficulty lies there really. I got my roll at the end of last week (thanks Mike) but have only had the chance to use it on one joint and one internal corner on a small ceiling as yet so can't really comment too well just now.

My initial impressions are the packaging is awkward, bulky and the weight of it could literally be a pain after an hour or so of taping ceilings. Maybe the/a machine will solve that problem to some extent but not everyone will have a machine. The metal insert on the reel, combined with the hex shape makes it hard going on the fingers when applying. Maybe, if the machine is being designed around the metal insert, it could be made removable? A round, lighter reel would be better (imho).


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## PalyMudMan (May 13, 2008)

lOL DUST CONTROLll : YOUR THE DUST CONTROLL>>> LESS SANDING MEANS MORE COVERAGE AND BETTER QUALLITY .... are you for real ?? lol


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## prontoguy (Apr 15, 2008)

*Free sample offer expired*

All,

Thank you very much for you interest in Pronto and response to my free roll offer. Originally we were set to have that offer expire on 4/23 but pushed it for another month because of the response from this forum.

Unfortunately the offer has now expired. :sad: People who requested before today will be receiving samples.:clap:

Best thing now to do is ask you current distributor to contact us through the 888- 5 PRONTO number so we can continue to get product out your way.

Thanks again for all of you support and help.

I am still here to answer questions and learn from each of you.

Just ripped down the wall AW did for me and it looked good :thumbsupof course, until I ripped it down.)

As others work on our Mock Ups I will let you know how it goes.

MC

... note my use of the smilies... I can be taught!


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## DryCon1 (May 23, 2008)

TimH said:


> I am new and can't figure out how to post a new topic, so I'll just jump in here. Occasionally, I read about someone adding soap to mud. I never have. Does it serve a useful purpose and if so, what kind of soap and how much? Is there a downside?


Forget about soap, try No Pock. It is designed for drywall mud. You can find it at most DIY stores or drywall supply store or use your search engine.


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