# Fire blocking



## kidcurry (Oct 24, 2006)

:furious: 
I have 16 ft walls were should my fire blooking be ???


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

You need to check your local codes. I haven't seen blocking used here in years.


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## house bldr (Jul 11, 2006)

According to the building code, if it is a shear wall you need blocking on all sheathing edges including horizontal edges.But nobody enforces that around here don't see it much anymore,but as teetor says check with your local building department


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Every 6"


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Mid span, and between floors if a 2 story. Like mentioned above, check with local officials.


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## K2 (Jul 8, 2005)

Here we have to block a wall over 10' high. We block so no section is longer than 10' so on a 16' high wall we can block anywhere between 6' and 10'. Most guys would go either 8' or 10'. Here they can be staggered so if you snap your line at 10' and go one above and one below the line, the one above won't meet the requirement. 

That's how it is done here. You should check with some local boys as stated above.

On insulated outside walls a fire in a wall cavity is pretty well contained and the blocks are probably more for adding ridgidity. On inside walls I'm all for keeping a fire contained to a smaller cavity. I'm also all for stopping fire or drafting between wall and joist cavities. A well fireblocked or firestopped home can add the extra minutes to save lives and or property in the event of a fire.

Here we block just below any interior soffit. A wall fire getting into a kitchen soffit has a path through to many joist spaces. A couple of blocks will slow it down or sometimes even suffocate a fire. There are other ways to firestop a soffit but that would be another thread.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

I've read blocking every 10' vertically, but as others have pointed out local code prevails.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

I draw it in at 8'. Technically it's not required, however at all brace locations (plywood) the panel edges are required to be blocked solid. Since the sheathing is 8', I require my guys to do it at 8', then the bracing blocking is not an issue when the inspector shows up.

For wall sheathing, we use osb only. No fiberboard, no gypsum. Costs a little more, makes a more rigid house.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

house bldr said:


> According to the building code, if it is a shear wall you need blocking on all sheathing edges including horizontal edges.But nobody enforces that around here don't see it much anymore,but as teetor says check with your local building department


As a fire fighter, I can assure you that fire blocking is a critical step that should not be discounted. Blocking is often the difference between us stopping a fire with a water can or sending a 2-1/2" line in with a crew venting the roof. Which would you rather have at your house?

In layman's terms, fire blocking BLOCKS the spread of fire. Don't knock it even though it's a pain in the neck.


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## troubleseeker (Sep 24, 2006)

kidcurry said:


> :furious:
> I have 16 ft walls were should my fire blooking be ???


 
Different regions support different codes, so check locally in your area. In my area, no wall cavity over 10 feet is allowed, but most framers automatically block anything over 8 feet. Pay particular attention around furr downs and the bottoms of stair stringers. Also locally they have become really strict about caulking (regular latex is ok for residential) all the wire and pipe penetrations through the plates.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

We used to do it 1/2 the way up the wall. It added some rigidity and could take the twist out of the occasional errant 2 X 4. Never did know why, just Dad's way of doing things.


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