# Sheetrock to plaster



## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

I did some searching but not a lot. I'll be honest with that upfront. 

I've got a job coming up where some of the existing plaster is staying and some is being replace with Sheetrock (remodel job, walls moved, etc). 

There is a hallway where plaster will meet drywall. Naturally studs behind drywall will have to be firred out. 

With all of that said, how do y'all go about taping to plaster. In the past I've always cleaned up plaster, roughed the edge for the durabond to hold better, and used paper tape. Maybe I need to keep doing that. Maybe I need to implement a new way.

So, what do y'all do/recommend. 


Thanks for your time and for any and all replies. 

Will


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Sounds good to me.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

I prime the plaster with Plaster Weld for these types of situations. :thumbsup:


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

I scuff the plaster, prime, use Fibertech wall liner 18” each side of the seam, roll on some hot mud, strike off with a 24”-36” Tape Tech finishing knife, scrape down just before set, let set, roll on some Plus 3 9-12” beyond hot mud, strike off as above, let set, roll on final coat of Plus 3 again going beyond the previous coat, strike off. Let dry, sand with Planex—-prime touch up if any is require, prime, paint.

Tom


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

tjbnwi said:


> I scuff the plaster, prime, use Fibertech wall liner 18” each side of the seam, roll on some hot mud, strike off with a 24”-36” Tape Tech finishing knife, scrape down just before set, let set, roll on some Plus 3 9-12” beyond hot mud, strike off as above, let set, roll on final coat of Plus 3 again going beyond the previous coat, strike off. Let dry, sand with Planex—-prime touch up if any is require, prime, paint.
> 
> Tom


holy sh!t.


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## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

tjbnwi said:


> I scuff the plaster, prime, use Fibertech wall liner 18” each side of the seam, roll on some hot mud, strike off with a 24”-36” Tape Tech finishing knife, scrape down just before set, let set, roll on some Plus 3 9-12” beyond hot mud, strike off as above, let set, roll on final coat of Plus 3 again going beyond the previous coat, strike off. Let dry, sand with Planex—-prime touch up if any is require, prime, paint.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom, is this what you're talking about? 

https://www.amazon.com/Liner-Heavy-White-Prepasted-Wallpaper/dp/B000EMWO7G


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I do this completely different. Consolidate the plaster edge with primer or acrylic adhesive diluted with IPA.

Add 25% scrylic fortifier to water, and mix durabond. Fill around the patch, which is kept at least 6 inches from criwn and base. Tape and AP for final.

The added thickness if tape, bed, and coat is very noticeable if it is too close to base or crown.


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## SouthonBeach (Oct 18, 2012)

I think I’ve just leaned I’m a hack compared to the way you guys tie into plaster. 
5/8 drywall is close to the plaster I’ve tied into. Sometimes shim it out if way different. Prefill if needed, tape and finish as normal.


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## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

hdavis said:


> I do this completely different. Consolidate the plaster edge with primer or acrylic adhesive diluted with IPA.
> 
> Add 25% scrylic fortifier to water, and mix durabond. Fill around the patch, which is kept at least 6 inches from criwn and base. Tape and AP for final.
> 
> ...


I use acrylic fortifier in things like stucco and surewall. I never thought about using it durabond. 

Acrylic adhesive diluted with IPA. I don't know what IPA is. If you don't mind, can you explain.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

zukinut said:


> Tom, is this what you're talking about?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Liner-Heavy-White-Prepasted-Wallpaper/dp/B000EMWO7G


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Saint-G...and-Plaster-Repair-Fabric-FDW8250-U/202076145

Tom


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

IPA is isopropyl alcohol AKA rubbing alcohol. Thins the adhesive caulk to a thin paint consistency so soaks in some.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Durabond doesn't stuck to plaster well. AP mud has PVA glue in it so it sticks well. Primer over the plaster gets you adhesion to the plaster, but you can also get it with the admix, and the admix makes durabond hard and able to flex more without cracking.

Just don't leave any proud, it isn't going to sand. You can shave it with a carbide scraper if you have to.

Making sure the plaster edge is stuck to the lath and consolidated is very important, Tom's method wouldn't be as picky.


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## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

Thanks again fellas. As always, I think I know something and then I learn a better way. 

Tom, have you ever used the regular width fibatape? I've seen it in the stores but I've never tried it out. Seems like it would be really good for butt joints. 

Will


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## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

hdavis said:


> Durabond doesn't stuck to plaster well. AP mud has PVA glue in it so it sticks well. Primer over the plaster gets you adhesion to the plaster, but you can also get it with the admix, and the admix makes durabond hard and able to flex more without cracking.
> 
> Just don't leave any proud, it isn't going to sand. You can shave it with a carbide scraper if you have to.
> 
> Making sure the plaster edge is stuck to the lath and consolidated is very important, Tom's method wouldn't be as picky.


Does the lightweight/easy sand/blue bucket have the glue or just the old school green ap bucket?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

zukinut said:


> Thanks again fellas. As always, I think I know something and then I learn a better way.
> 
> Tom, have you ever used the regular width fibatape? I've seen it in the stores but I've never tried it out. Seems like it would be really good for butt joints.
> 
> Will


Yes, I keep a roll of paper, mesh and FibaFuse in the grab. Pick what I think will work best for the situation.

Tom


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

hdavis said:


> Durabond doesn't stuck to plaster well. AP mud has PVA glue in it so it sticks well. Primer over the plaster gets you adhesion to the plaster, but you can also get it with the admix, and the admix makes durabond hard and able to flex more without cracking.
> 
> Just don't leave any proud, it isn't going to sand. You can shave it with a carbide scraper if you have to.
> 
> Making sure the plaster edge is stuck to the lath and consolidated is very important, Tom's method wouldn't be as picky.


The tie-in’s/repairs I’ve done the plaster has been paint numerous times. As long as the paint film is solid, scuffing the paint and going over it with hot mud has worked well for me. If I was still doing the remodeling thing I’d try the Plaster Weld Sir Mix linked. 

Any edges that have loose white coat, I knock off the loose white, plaster washers and screws to the lath or nearest stud. I find hot mud sticks well to the scratch or brown coat.

Tom


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

zukinut said:


> Does the lightweight/easy sand/blue bucket have the glue or just the old school green ap bucket?


The all purpose has way more glue. I also use Trim-Tex Drywall Mud-Max Compound Additive Powder that improves strength, durability, resilience of compounds, textures and plaster. Trim-Tex Drywall Mud-Max Compound Additive Powder. It improves strength, durability, resilience of compounds, textures and plasters.

https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Tex-Dry...qid=1529588444&sr=8-1&keywords=trimtex+mudmax


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## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

Can guardz be used on plaster like the plaster weld? Tom turned me onto that guards stuff when I was fixing some torn drywall paper. The stuff was amazing for that application. 

Will


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## zukinut (Dec 24, 2017)

The top photo is where I'm gonna do the tie in. The second photo is a wall I was gonna drop and drywall but I may try the the stuff tom reccomended. 

How do y'all go about fixing cracked plaster corners. I've always just used paper tape and durabomd. The stuff that tom posted would be amazing for cracked plaster corners if it's allowable to be used for that. 

Around here, on remodels, I have to do all my own drywall and plaster repairs because there are no folks worth giving money to, to do it for me 😞


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

zukinut said:


> Can guardz be used on plaster like the plaster weld? Tom turned me onto that guards stuff when I was fixing some torn drywall paper. The stuff was amazing for that application.
> 
> Will


I love Gardz too. But, I only use it on drywall situations. Not saying you can't use it on plaster. However it doesn't mention anything about Plaster in the specs like Plaster Weld.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c.../primer-sealers/gardz-problem-surface-sealer/
*ABOUT GARDZ® PROBLEM SURFACE SEALER*
Lock down porous and crumbling surfaces with Rust-Oleum® Zinsser® GARDZ® Problem Surface Sealer. This low-odor, water-based formula dries to a clear, matte finish, creating a hard, paintable seal over damaged drywall, adhesive residues and other chalky surfaces.

Repairs torn paper on damaged drywall, eliminates bubbles
Seals skim coats & spackling
Protects new drywall
Seals old wallpaper adhesive
Easy to apply, high spread rate, fast drying
Water-base, low odor, dries clear

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

http://www.larsenproducts.com/plaster-weld-2/
*Plaster-Weld®* bonds new plaster to any clean, structurally sound, interior surface. The original chemical plaster bonding agent is a patented formulation incorporating polyvinyl acetate homopolymer. DESIGNED FOR INTERIOR USE ONLY, the high performance bonding of one-coat finish plaster and/or two and three coat work to concrete ceilings, walls, columns, beams, and other structurally sound surfaces. Plaster-Weld® prepares the surface to allow you to plaster directly to concrete over electric radiant heat cable, and to bond cement mortar beds to smooth concrete for installation of rigid foam insulation. Concrete, brick, block, glass, ceramic tile, wallboard, metals (e.g. sheet lead in x-ray rooms) and marble are suitable sound surfaces, structurally. Plaster-Weld® can be used over paints having oil, rubber or vinyl bases, and over silicone-treated surfaces, as well as latex paints.


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