# wallpaper removal



## lornmastro (Mar 17, 2006)

someone told me when removing wallpaper the best way would be to mix up a solution of dif/hot water/white vinegar/baking soda and fabric softener. has anyone ever tried removing wallpaper with this concoction???
another question...i was told that after removing wallpaper you should always oil base prime to prevent the residue wallpaper glue from crystalizing.....is this true or do you have to get all the glue off the walls first??
and yes one more question after removing wallpaper should you oil base prime...then spackle then prime again??or can you strip wallpaper,spackle then oil based prime.
thanks all for all your help....still in a learning curve


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## simmons (Mar 21, 2006)

Have been checkin out the site for some time - one of the best we've seen !! Here's our take on wallpaper removal-
1-hot water will soften the adhesive but since there's no way to keep it hot the adhesive will usually retemper rather quickly
2-never heard of the concoction (it's more of a witches brew)
3-our best results have been to score the wallpaper using a paper tiger, spraying a solution of two cups fabric softener in one gallon of water, apply using a garden sprayer. Let sit 5-10 minutes and scrape, peel and pick.
4-You need to prime. But oil based primer is not the only ticket. Zinnser has a product called GARDZ meant specifically for sealing prior to or after wallpaper. It's water based so you can cut drying times in your scheduling vs. oil based primers. Some glue and backing usually aren't a problem if your final finish isn't too smooth.
5-spackle and then apply sealer.
good luck


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

You want the skinny on w/c removal? Stay tuned, I'll tell ya tomorrow.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

ProWallGuy said:


> You want the skinny on w/c removal? Stay tuned, I'll tell ya tomorrow.

















...
Usually I just use hot water and a steamer
If I have to score it or use something (DIF I think) I will

Gardz is a great primer for this app.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

ProWallGuy said:


> You want the skinny on w/c removal? Stay tuned, I'll tell ya tomorrow.


:whistling


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

All right, here goes. 
Use cool water, it won't evaporate as quickly as hot.
Generally, I don't use a removal solution, but if I do, the first I try is just a shot of dish detergent in the pump sprayer. If more is needed, you can't beat Safe & Simple. Best removal solution hands down.
Cut a piece of light-mil painters plastic the length of the wall. 
Wet wall thoroughly.
Cover wall with plastic. 
Wait about 10-15 minutes.
Test a spot, see if it's ready. If not, spray again and re-cover.
Wait 10-15 again, and start removing.
Beware, the plastic wrap works great, but has a window of opportunity. If you let it sit too long, it can delaminate the drywall paper from the gypsum.
As you remove the paper, while the wall is still wet, scrub off the paste using a stiff, brillo-type pad. We use this type. Choose the brillo pad according to how thick/what type of adhesive was used.
Immediately wash wall with sponge/clean water. Change rinse water often.
Prime with GARDZ, or oil primer if you like the smell.
If the wall wasn't primed prior to w/c installation, all bets are off.


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## lornmastro (Mar 17, 2006)

thanks all for the great information i love this forum...but...um..i...well...have....a few more questions...i just started using the light mil plastic over the walls that have been saturated and i think it works great ...but i guess i better find out how LONG IS TOO LONG!! also i had some spots where the paper portion of the dry wall came off...i guess that is called delaminate the drywall from the gypsum?? am i right?? i went to home depot to get the gardz and they didn't have it...so i went to sherwin williams they said that the gardz is a conditioner and its used for those spot where the paper comes off the sheetrock....is that true is gardz a conditioner??so i got the conditioner and put it on those spots and spackled i also got a can of oil based primer which i plan to use over the walls that have been striped of wallpaper and for the spots that have been conditioned....is that right?? and can i use the conditioner INSTEAD of oil based primer??? i guess i'm a little confused about this gardz/conditioner...i've always been told to use oil based primer over walls that have been striped of wallpaper...thanks all for all your help...trying to learn


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

lornmastro said:


> thanks all for the great information i love this forum...but...um..i...well...have....a few more questions...i just started using the light mil plastic over the walls that have been saturated and i think it works great ...but i guess i better find out how LONG IS TOO LONG!!


This is where it helps for me to be a w/c installer. At the bid, I determine what type of paper (vinyl-coated, solid vinyl, paper-paper, FBV, etc.), and what combonation of paste/primer was used. I ALWAYS TEST A SMALL SPOT AT THE TIME OF THE ESTIMATE. I keep record in a notebook of all the different types/combos, and can tell by the test if its comparable to others I've removed. Basically, what I'm saying is experience will help you determine the window you have to strip in.


lornmastro said:


> also i had some spots where the paper portion of the dry wall came off...i guess that is called delaminate the drywall from the gypsum?? am i right??


Yes, I meant when the paper facing peels from the backing or gypsum. It usually looks like a brown paper bag surface.


lornmastro said:


> i went to home depot to get the gardz and they didn't have it...


Shop at a real paint store, not a discount store. Get a paint rep and set some good contractor's prices for yourself.


lornmastro said:


> so i went to sherwin williams they said that the gardz is a conditioner and its used for those spot where the paper comes off the sheetrock....is that true is gardz a conditioner??


Yes, GARDZ is a drywall conditioner. But don't be tricked into buying Sherwin's Drywall Conditioner, its weak and doesn't compare. Use GARDZ or DRAWTITE.


lornmastro said:


> so i got the conditioner and put it on those spots and spackled


Joint compound would be way better than spackle for this application.


lornmastro said:


> i also got a can of oil based primer which i plan to use over the walls that have been striped of wallpaper and for the spots that have been conditioned....is that right??


Yep, that'll work.


lornmastro said:


> and can i use the conditioner INSTEAD of oil based primer??? i guess i'm a little confused about this gardz/conditioner...i've always been told to use oil based primer over walls that have been striped of wallpaper...thanks all for all your help...trying to learn


That's the tricky part. GARDZ can be used, IF ALL THE ADHESIVE HAS BEEN WASHED OFF. If you are uncertain whether the paste is gone or not, then use oil.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

ProWallGuy said:


> Shop at a real paint store


Post Of The Day!!!!


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

That's some wild process PWG
I'll have to try that next strip job I get
Thanks for the tips


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## chris n (Oct 14, 2003)

http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/wallpaper_stripping.html


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## mgmmike (Feb 14, 2006)

Just recently had a kitchen remodel job that required paper removal. Tried the Dif solution with not so pleasant results. A guy I was working with on the job suggested Windex window cleaner. Worked great but could be a little pricy for a large application.


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## lornmastro (Mar 17, 2006)

*thanks pwg*

thanks sooo much for clearifying that for me....there we a couple of spots that still bubbled after the conditioner was put on....did i not put it on thick enough....or do you think it was because i got suckered into buying the sherwin williams conditioner....


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

lornmastro said:


> do you think it was because i got suckered into buying the sherwin williams conditioner....


Probably. I've tried it 3 or 4 times, and was highly unimpressed each time.
It is a very cheap/weak knockoff of the real thing.


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## dayspring (Mar 4, 2006)

ProWallGuy...Sure wish I'd seen this thread a year ago, Had a job removing over 6,000 sf of paper, we tried everything you can imagine excepts the plastic on the wall. That makes good sense. Maybe that's why I didn't think of it! All I know is over-all I under estimated the job (big-time) @ $8.00 a roll, some took as long as $32.00 a roll to remove, it came off in tiny pieces. Good thing the homeowner paid the labor difference. Once again, the Pro's in this forum "SHINE"


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## chris n (Oct 14, 2003)

ProWallGuy said:


> Probably. I've tried it 3 or 4 times, and was highly unimpressed each time.
> It is a very cheap/weak knockoff of the real thing.


You got that right.:notworthy


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## lornmastro (Mar 17, 2006)

thanks for the info will search/buy the gardz


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## Rich Wozny (Aug 18, 2005)

IMHO, I would always get as much of the paste off as possible, no matter what the new finish will be. After wetting, scraping, etc. I always wash walls with a non-sudsings cleaner, such as Soilax or Dirtex mixed in water, changing it as it gets dirty, until walls are paste free. If you tear through the drywall paper in spots, let dry completly, then sand those spots down tightly, then prime with gardz, let dry then patch. I've had homeowners who stripped their own wallpaper, they usually get 60% of the paste off and think its OK to paint over. Then I tell them I'll do it the right way, charge them accordingly, and tell them next time call me, don't waste your time doing a half assed job.


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## lxdollarsxl (Apr 13, 2006)

Ive never had any problems with just warm water, just wetting 2 lengths at a time and letting soak for 2 mins. Then using soilax to wash off the remaining adhesive. If you also think about it and try teasing the paper from the top first and find it comes off is small peices try from the bottom and you will find its possible to pull off a full length taking your time - wallpaper when made has (you may think it funny) grain which runs one way a bit like steel when rolled one way try to go against this grain and you get bits go with it and it comes off sweetly.:thumbsup:

Just a thought if its got a vinyl top to it, peel off that layer dry leaving the backing, then warm water again removes.


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## donb1959 (Dec 9, 2004)

I just recently remover paper/paper from a kitchen, it had been hung over latex painted walls. I have used the DIF liquid with no success, but I tried the DIF gel, and to my surprise it worked fairly well. I sprayed it on _heavily_ then waited at least 30 mins, and it peeled off fairly easily with a minimum of delamination. I'm *always* looking for a more effective way of paper removal, as it's always a pain in my arse.


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

I would do it slickshift ways. Go rent a wallpaper steamer. Score the wallpaper to make little holes in it and steam it loose. Once you get the paper off go with this.http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=27


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## Rich Wozny (Aug 18, 2005)

747 said:


> I would do it slickshift ways. Go rent a wallpaper steamer. Score the wallpaper to make little holes in it and steam it loose. Once you get the paper off go with this.http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=27


747... I've always thought of a wallpaper steamer as a personal sauna, in my encounters with them, they suck, but some people might like a two for one!


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

I rented one once and the wallpaper just pealed off actually in sheets. No problem it way gravey all the way.I thought it worked excellent. But i did have to buy one of those hand held scoring tools to run over the wallpaper and make the holes in it. It was a little bit steamy but i new it wasn't going to be a clean job.


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## Rich Wozny (Aug 18, 2005)

Wow 747 your an airline pilot? how come you didn't get in on the airline security thread?


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

I didn't see it.


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## lornmastro (Mar 17, 2006)

bringing this back to the top...great thread


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## Red Canary (Mar 16, 2007)

Never heard of the concoction of dif, vinegar . . . etc. Would like to try the fabric softener recipe.

I score the paper, wet it with warm water, spray with dif and warm water, let stand, spray again, let sit again (less time than the first) and then remove, re-wetting as necessary with dif.

Then, wash the wall with TSP phosphate free. Then, I usually wash the walls again with a dif mixture, then another wash with TSP--gets all the glue almost all the time.

Sherwin Williams makes a primer/sizing product (can't think of the name off the top of my head right now) and this works great--it's latex, also. 

After priming, I spackle, etc., then spot-prime over repair areas with the same primer and/or primer/sizer.


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## Traditions2 (Jul 3, 2008)

I'm getting ready to paint over wallper removed wall. I've always used oil. Sherwin told me to use latex problock. ANyone use this? Good results.>?


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## WisePainter (Sep 16, 2008)

I use a mix of hot water mixed up with Krud Kutter in a pump sprayer after I run a paper tiger lightly over the surface.
It usually takes 3 passes with the sprayer over a 30 minute period.
After the paper is off I use an alkyd primer to prevent the left over wallpaper adhesive from reconstituting when a latex primer/top coat is applied.

I have 50 cheap beach towels that I place at the baseboard to mop up any run off.
Works for me.


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## hanger1966 (May 2, 2012)

*Lou's Painting ang wallpapering Chgo Il*



lornmastro said:


> someone told me when removing wallpaper the best way would be to mix up a solution of dif/hot water/white vinegar/baking soda and fabric softener. has anyone ever tried removing wallpaper with this concoction???
> another question...i was told that after removing wallpaper you should always oil base prime to prevent the residue wallpaper glue from crystalizing.....is this true or do you have to get all the glue off the walls first??
> and yes one more question after removing wallpaper should you oil base prime...then spackle then prime again??or can you strip wallpaper,spackle then oil based prime.
> thanks all for all your help....still in a learning curve


First of all you have to evaluate what kind of wallcovering your dealing with. ome papers the top coat removes easily which then you soak the backing with DIF. With prepasted wallpapers it is best to sand the paper with 80 grid to destroy the vinyl barrier. Then soak with a Hudson sprayer. Using a score you will cause damage to walls. my way will save you time on labor. Remove all paste with DIF hot water and a scrunge pad. prep and prime with a latex primer. Oil is not required. Roman primer is great for reinstallations, but for repaint I would use a universal latex primer. Note: if adhesive is not completley removed and painted over the paint will flake or alligator.


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## hanger1966 (May 2, 2012)

*Lou's Painting and Wallpapering*

Sand prepasted with 80 grid and soak with Dif three or four application and then peel loose. Use a scruge pad and resoak with Dif and remove all residue. Simple.


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## hanger1966 (May 2, 2012)

*Lou's Painting and Wallpapering Chgo Il*



Woz the Painter said:


> 747... I've always thought of a wallpaper steamer as a personal sauna, in my encounters with them, they suck, but some people might like a two for one!


Never used a steamer, no need, use a hudson sprayer, sand with 80 grid first if prepasted. A score will **** up the walls.


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## Painter NYC (Sep 17, 2012)

I agree with Simmons, just i don't always need to prime the walls to kill the glue. Wallpaper glue can simply be washed with hot water and sponge. But, i remember in my fast wallpaper removal that the home owner was very proud of the installer, so that meant that i had to remove the paper inch by inch. It was a nightmare that i would never want to go through again. Guys use R35 to make our life easier.

http://www.interiorpaintingnewyork.com
Check us out


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