# Stone foundation repair - need help!



## canuck88 (Aug 6, 2007)

Hi all,

I'm an electrician by trade and know nothing of stone foundations and brick work. My wife and I are considering purchasing a 130 year old heritage home - The current owner has lived in the house for about 25 years, but has performed what appears to be no maintenance in 15 or more of those.

It seems she disconnected all of the downspouts some time ago, which has casused damage to the stone foundation and some of the brickwork. Some of it - as you can see in the photos - has left the stones completely exposed and about to fall out. Luckily, the basement has remained dry except for a few damp spots (right near the downspout locations). Also, some of the brickwork has slipped and needs re-pointing.

There is only one masonry company in town, so I was hoping I could get some advice on the extent of the damage shown in the photos below, what is involved to repair, and approx. how much it may cost (just want to make sure they aren't gouging me - I've never worked with them before as this is a small town about 30 minutes east of the city where we are now).

Also, what's a fair price for brick repointing? Is it priced per sq. ft.?

I would really appreciate your expertise!

Here are the photos of the foundation:























































Here is some brickwork damage and a photo up near the soffits to show general condition:


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## RAY MERCHANT (Aug 6, 2007)

*Hope I Could Help*

WHO EVER DOES THE JOB WILL PROBABLY WANT TO CHARGE YOU BY THE HOUR,HEAR IN FLORIDA AROUND 40 TO 85 AN HOUR DEPENDING ON WHO YOU GET
ITS A SMALL JOB FROM THE LOOKS OF IT,
FROM WHAT I SEEN IT WOULD PROBABLY TAKE 
2 TA 3 DAYS 32 X 55.OO = 1760.00
DONT HOLD ME TO IT THOW
LIKE I SAID THATS HEAR IN FL:thumbsup:


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## concretemasonry (Dec 1, 2006)

The first thing to do is correct the exterior drainage problems - Gutters, downspout extensions and surface grading.

If you have any stones that are loose or slipped, that may require more that just tuck-pointing.

When you have the tuckpointing done, do not use the the typical off the shelf pre-proportioned mortar. For compatibility, use a traditional mortar that was used when the foundation was built.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

The foundation doesn't look too bad, but there are some issues as evidenced by that pilastered window. I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole, but that is just me. I grew up in big old houses, so I know the maintenance and repair they entail.


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

I don't see any pics


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## stacker (Jan 31, 2006)

lukachuki said:


> I don't see any pics


same here!i know tscar is good,but dammmmmmmn:thumbup:


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## canuck88 (Aug 6, 2007)

Picture links updated!


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## Glasshousebltr (Feb 9, 2004)

RAY MERCHANT said:


> FROM WHAT I SEEN IT WOULD PROBABLY TAKE
> 2 TA 3 DAYS 32 X 55.OO = 1760.00


If it takes a fella 2 or 3 days to tuck point what I see .......he wont be on my payroll for the 3rd. However, I'm assuming the pics entitle the worst.

Looks like a days work to me.


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## Glasshousebltr (Feb 9, 2004)

oh yea and......like Dick said.......get the damn gutters back up.


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## canuck88 (Aug 6, 2007)

Yeah, I think the evestrough are completely stuffed with leaves and debris... but we don't close on the house until December, so I'm going to ask permission to have them cleaned and the downspouts put back on (as well as snakes to get the water away from the foundation until I can have it repaired and re-graded)...


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## [email protected] (May 1, 2010)

*not so fast!*

The proper way to point is in thirds at a minimum. Plus theres the cleanout of all the old loose debris. maybe 3 layers would get applied by a very ambitious and/or sloppy person. But just by the nature of the job though it would require more than one day of application.


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