# replacement windows



## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Not sure if this is the right place to post about this.......... I need to replace the windows in my own house with solid vinyl windows. I don't do replacement windows as part of my business so I am not really informed on what brands are good and bad. Based on the condition of the current windows in my house which are 25 year old Malta vinyl clad wood frames and sash, I need to pull them out completely and use new construction windows as replacements. Been looking around trying to find reviews on the internet, but not getting anything worthwhile. Not sure if I trust any of the products from the big box stores either. What I need is some first hand information about good quality and cost for vinyl windows . Any information would be helpful, good or bad.


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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

If you wait a few hours, you can hear from others how bad of a contractor you are, because you don't know how to change windows, "one of the most requested services for contractors."

Hopefully with this comment, the trolls have been discouraged.

Can your local lumberyard give suggestions or advice?



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## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

Metal Industries makes a pretty decent window.

I haven't had the chance to use them, but I've heard a lot of good stuff about Okna windows. 


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## Moods (Oct 30, 2016)

Your location is a factor when looking for window or door replacements. I am in Ohio and prefer the Wincore 7700 for replacement and 500 series for new construction options. Both series can be custom ordered to size and have all the latest bell and whistle options available. There are other brands that make quality vinyl products also, Siminton is one to note in my area. I just think Wincore pays a bit more attention to detail. 

Deciding between using replacement or new construction units completely depends on your project. For example, if the window is faced in brick or stone, you usually will have to go with a replacement unit. If your house has wood or vinyl siding, a new construction unit may be better as they are easier to properly flash for weather and can be ordered with built in J-channel to speed and simplify the exterior finish work.

Oh, when insulating, stay 10 miles away from the foam. I don't care if it says it is for windows right on the can. Take the time and use fiberglass, do not over stuff it, it should be fluffy. For small cracks use silicone or butyl. 

By the way, not knowing much about windows does not make you a bad contractor. I do work all the time for guys in other trades. I also never hesitate to call them when i get outside my own comfort level.


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks Moods for the info. Will look into those brands. I also have a Harvey windows distributor in my area if you have ever heard of them. Not sure of the quality of their product, but they do advertise a lot on TV. I see you are new here, once you get to know the forum you will find out that some of the responses aren't very kind and are often insulting. I choose not to do replacement windows because its a very competitive business in my area and I just don't' need the aggravation of measuring, ordering, not getting jobs I spend time bidding on etc. Besides, I am so busy all the time with the other work that I do I don't need to do windows.:no:


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## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

Harvey makes a good window. But I have to respectfully disagree with moods suggestion to stay away from foam. When properly installed, foam does a much better job than fiberglass. It actually air seals the gap, which fiberglass doesn't do. You just need to be careful with it and obviously only use door and window foam. I've never had a problem with it bowing in windows/doors. 


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## pappagor (Jan 29, 2008)

if you can not foam a window you should not give advice on what is a good window in my book.:thumbsup:


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## Framer53 (Feb 23, 2008)

I have simplified my window choices down to Anderson only.
Why?
Because when I call or need service on existing I get it as fast as I need.


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## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

Definitely depends on physical location, but here in NW Ohio I use tons of Simonton windows...New construction line is the ProFinish, and replacements are Reflection series (they have a nicer frame than the Asure series). 

The basic rule of thumb for insulating windows with foam vs fiberglass for me is to say this: If you're going to foam them, get a foam gun. It's the only way I do it anymore. The single use cans are a joke, you're better off with fiberglass...BUT...since getting a foam gun I've never fiberglassed a window or door since. It's clean and controllable, and seals drafts in the best possible way!

Definitely measure twice and make a list...then check it all again before ordering the new windows...and pay attention to the details of what you want (which way do you want the casements to open? Sliders to open which direction?) Think about the grills too, there's a billion design options these days!


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## SLSTech (Sep 13, 2008)

Just as an FYI - using fiberglass is essentially against the codes in every state & every manufacturers directions I can think of

Your big name long term companies all make some good windows (most here including me generally go Marvin first) - just check the options & watch the NFRC ratings. Beyond that the worst window installed properly will out perform the best window installed improperly


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

I know it may get me some grief, but a vinyl window is a vinyl window. Any window from the major brands in your area should be a decent window. Properly installed it will perform well and last forever.

I use Milgard mostly, but have gone to Cascade for rentals. Good window and it is a bit less in cost. You can spend more and get a better energy ratings in any manufacturer, but in the real world, unless you are in a very cold or hot area, it probably doesn't matter.

Then it is a combination of coatings and gases. Some manufacturers swear by their special frame extrusions or magic materials. There is a difference between the low end and top end windows in a line, but to me it doesn't make that much difference in performance. In pleasure to use, locks and feel it does for sure. But around here, the weather is pretty mild. Never had a complaint.

Still do your research. Years ago, it wasn't so easy. Some of the vinyl windows would let air through the weather beads and sash gaps. Haven't had that problem in a long time around here.

All that said, I don't don't do high end window installs, my customers don't roll that way, so I am talking about the standard lines here.

Another question would be what is wrong with the ones you have now? Improper installation, frame failure, rot, etc.?

Oh, yeah. A foam gun is probably the best thing you can get for windows and doors. It is a game changer. Besides making it easier and cleaner to install, it also is way cheaper. One can will do two or three houses with properly measured windows, where the single cans might get you a couple windows before they dry up. Also, foaming the windows makes them feel more solid and tight.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

SLSTech said:


> Just as an FYI -* using fiberglass is essentially against the codes in every state* & every manufacturers directions I can think of
> 
> Your big name long term companies all make some good windows (most here including me generally go Marvin first) - just check the options & watch the NFRC ratings. Beyond that the worst window installed properly will out perform the best window installed improperly


Can you cite a reference to this?


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## SLSTech (Sep 13, 2008)

superseal said:


> Can you cite a reference to this?


Table 1102.4.2 from 2009 IRC & everyone since
http://thehtrc.com/2013/getting-details-right-air-barrier 










It specifically states that "air permeable" aka fiberglass may not be used as a sealant - ahh but I use caulk, then technically you are fine as that is the "sealant" but many inspectors will fail you if they see it. 

As for manufacturers, check out their directions


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## Moods (Oct 30, 2016)

wow...
Using Fiberglass is perfectly fine anywhere. Fiberglass insulation has nothing to do with sealing the unit. Sealing the unit is done with proper flashing and siding on the exterior of the wall. The fiberglass is simply used to insulate dead space between the wall framing and the window unit itself.
Using foam to insulate this dead space will do the same thing as the fiberglass. It is also quicker so long as you don't get it on anything it shouldn't be on. 

My problem with the foam is that it will lock the jambs in place. This makes things tougher for the trim installers. If they happen to have to pull the middle of the jamb in to straighten it up it will break the foam creating more dead space. If they have to push a jamb away, well they can't, not without butchering the foam insulation. Fiberglass has the ability to expand and contract (to an extent) without compromising the R-Value.

Maybe I'm just old school.


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

When it was said, foam is against building code. I don't know about that. I do know it is against the Energy code.

Jan 1, 2012. It became Federal law that all states had to comply with the Energy Code. Before that, the energy code was there, but it also said states could do what they wanted. In 2012 that changed.

Foam gun is by far the best way to go. They work amazingly well. 

As far as fiberglass around a window or door. Yes it is against the energy code. No it doesn't void any warranty. No, it doesn't bow the sides of the window. You have to use the window and door foam. Not the other stuff. It is different.

It was explained to me as this. Fiberglass around a window acts like a cigarette filter. It will slow down the air movement, but it won't stop it. Foam will stop it. Also, if your gap is too narrow for foam, caulking is approved. Because caulking will stop air flow. 

If you've ever had a blower door test done, this becomes evident really quick.

Back to the point of the post. Your location will make a difference on what windows are available. Post your location and someone from your area will most likely be able to help you.

I work all the time, to not be old school. I've learned I need to adapt. Believe it or not, some of the new methods are pretty good.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

OSI foam is def the way to go. If the windows are pushing out, you can use squeeze clamps to pull them in flush before foaming. Foam provides so much more structural support, especially with inserts. 

Harvey windows are good. I've used plenty of them. Many options for glass packages, hardware, colors, etc.


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Checked around and found Simonton and Viwinco are top sellers in my area. Will check out some sample windows tomorrow and probably will go with the Simontons. Thanks for all the input.


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## DLynch0009 (Feb 25, 2016)

Can't imagine anyone who installs windows on a regular basis would use fiberglass on their own house. Doesn't that say all it needs to say. Window and door foam is the way to go.


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## Lettusbee (May 8, 2010)

I am greatly disturbed by the amount of ignorance displayed on this forum regarding proper air sealing and insulating practices as it applies to window installation. 

As far as I can tell, the OP was asking for advice on brands, not install practices. He already knows he wants new construction style vinyl. 

I don't know what part of the country he is in, but if he is in Milgard territory, I would advise using their Tuscany series for replacement. 

I would advise against MI and Cascade. That is from personal experience with both of those brands. 

Simonton is good as well. 

Andersen has some good lines and some not so good lines. Their Vinyl clad wood product is crap though, and I would avoid it. 

As for all of this foam talk, Jesus Christ people, Fiberglass is allows air movement, and is specifically not recommended in our jusrisdiction. 
I've removed more windows than you have, and I can promise you that all of the dirty fiberglass I remvoed from window jamb cavities, is dirty because air is flowing across it. Thats why furnace filters are made out of fiberglass. It's porous. Yes, you caulk and tape the nailfin. Air still gets through. Using foam designed for windows and doors is the preferred method. I use Touch-n-Seal. It is AAMA approved. The window installer should verify his jambs are straight and true before foaming. Since I install and trim my own windows, that has been a non issue for me. 

But seriously, if you're still using fiberglass to insulate window and door jamb cavities, you need to join the 21st century and get educated.


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