# Translucent roof repair



## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

I bought my first cutaway van a few months ago. The roof is translucent and I like the feature a lot. 

It looks like the previous owner tried to repair this several times without much luck. the roof panel is separated from the cross bracing almost through the whole box. Seems like he tried to just caulk it w/ something. 

Question is, What is the fix? Is there a reliable repair that can be made for this, or must I replace the whole panel? It seems as though the roof is sort of misshapen from snow or something. 

I can grab a pic tomorrow if I'm not explaining it adequately.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## avguy (Feb 8, 2010)

Epoxy, not caulk is usually the way to go.

How badly is it misshapen?


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

Kinda hard to tell since it is so detached from the bracing. Not terribly misshapen, but enough that you can here it flexing up and down as you drive down the road. 

As far as epoxy goes, are you referring to putty epoxy or liquid type?


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## avguy (Feb 8, 2010)

This sounds like a bad replacement job by somebody who can't measure.

The roof material should have been attached to the bracing with rivets and aluminum straps.

Since I can't see it, I would recommend you find a trailer shop and let them have a look.

Silicone is fine if it's a proper repair or new roof.
But two part liquid epoxy will hold much better if the roof is bowed.
However in this case it sounds like it would just be a band aid and not a real solution.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

i wouldnt rivet it. as the roof expands and contracts, you may get cracks around the rivets. the fiberglass and aluminum will expand at different rates. 
i'd use a polyurethane caulk in between the braces and the roof. or maybe even gutter caulk.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I would also not use the rivets, too much room for error. The holes have to be small enough to grab and as 3Bar said you may crack around the rivet.

A better solution would be to use stainless steel self tappers. Dry the holes in the fiberglass a bit larger than the screws. Use a neoprene washer between the fiberglass and supports and then feed a metal washer and another neoprene washer onto the screw.

I would side with a good polyurethane caulk to seal any other leaks. Without pics this would be my best shot in the dark.


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## FRAME2FINISH (Aug 31, 2010)

i'll go with polyurethane caulk the glazers use for 200 hahaha

that crap is pretty flexible and long lasting and stays on your hands for weeks imo


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## CarrPainting (Jun 29, 2010)

I personally, would either use bolts with large washers on the outside, or attach strips of aluminum to the outside over the ribs, drill your holes, and work from the middle out word.

I have a E350 with a unicell body, and the ribs arnt really 'attached' to the top. Infact, prior to the massive modification we did to the truck 10yrs ago, the ribs arnt actually attached to the body at all with traditional fasteners. they are more or less glued to the body.


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