# Scissor lift for wood subfloor



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Hey guys, looking for thoughts on using a scissor lift inside on new wood subfloor system. House we are building later this summer will have a large, 2 story great room. There will be a lot of beam work, drywall, paint,...blah blah blah. 

Probably looking at a 19'- 21' lift. Usually weigh around 4500lbs give or take. Do you think a second layer of 3/4” suffice to carry that or maybe use 1-1/8” subfloor?...just running options through my head. 

Could also get the room fully scaffolded but that has its own pros and cons.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

You can get that high with a rolling scaffold and outriggers.

No need to do the whole room with scaffold.

Ive never used a scissor lift on residential wood floors, so I’m no help at all. 😳


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

I've done a number of great rooms like that. Rolling scaffold(s) every time. Never heard of anyone using a scissor lift.


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

I'd have serious reservations using a lift, a lot if concentrated weight in a small foot print.


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## Kingcarpenter1 (May 5, 2020)

Not to mention the hassle

Mike


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Tinstaafl said:


> I've done a number of great rooms like that. Rolling scaffold(s) every time. Never heard of anyone using a scissor lift.


We have always used scaffolding also...but have been on a similar job that was a slab and we had a scissor lift in for that and it was much more convenient to complete window trim, beam work, chandelier install, etc. Just wondered if it was worth beefing up the floor for that vs just using the scaffold.


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

overanalyze said:


> We have always used scaffolding also...but have been on a similar job that was a slab and we had a scissor lift in for that and it was much more convenient to complete window trim, beam work, chandelier install, etc. Just wondered if it was worth beefing up the floor for that vs just using the scaffold.


I agree that a lift has a lot of positive aspects, but the only way I'd be comfortable using it on a wood structure is to be able to sure it from below.


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## META (Apr 9, 2015)

3/8 OSB, 24/0 APA span rating, 30 psf allowable live load

7/16 OSB, 24/16 APA span rating, 40 psf allowable live load

15/32 OSB, 32/16 APA span rating, 70 psf allowable live load

1/2 OSB, 32/16 APA span rating, 70 psf allowable live load

19/32 OSB, 40/20 APA span rating, 130 psf allowable live load

23/32 OSB, 48/24 APA span rating, 175 psf allowable live load

1-1/8 OSB, 48 APA span rating, 290 psf allowable live load



https://www.hunker.com/13402266/osb-floor-weight-limit



I don't feel comfortable having 4500#/4 wheels= 1,125# per wheel on OSB free span.

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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

My guess is that floor has a maximum PSF. Do you have the engineered drawings for it?


Mike.
*___*


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## mrcat (Jun 27, 2015)

About 8 years ago before I was on my own, we put an electric scissor on a wood floor.

We only had to go in a straight line though,(setting rafters in a great room) so we laid down 2x12 runners perpendicular to the joists, and it worked fine. 

I think I'd be a little leary running on just the subfloor....

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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

It also might matter which direction the joists are as well. I'd think perpendicular would be safer. 


Mike.
*___*


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

the little bit of work required to use a scissors lift in this application could very easily make it worthwhile endeavor.

the speed, maneuverability and convenience can & will make working at heights more productive.

there are several models in the 3500lb range with 20' reach.

worth a look if nothing else...


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

griz said:


> the little bit of work required to use a scissors lift in this application could very easily make it worthwhile endeavor.
> 
> the speed, maneuverability and convenience can & will make working at heights more productive.
> 
> ...


This is what my mind keeps telling me...this won't be a simple flat ceiling great room. 2 story, stick framed vault with 4 or 5 large timber trusses to assemble, install, finish, etc. Even if I had to put down a temp 2nd layer of 3/4" I think it would be worth it. 

Double 3/4 ply is specced all the time to run lifts on top of maple gym floors...

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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Calidecks said:


> My guess is that floor has a maximum PSF. Do you have the engineered drawings for it?
> 
> 
> Mike.
> *___*


No not yet. Still in final design phase and budgeting. Wheels are turning for the build process making sure I am thinking of the details. My partner brought this "problem" up today so now I am working through options. 

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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Ive had four scissorlifts, at one time a a 3/4 maple gym floor, with no issues. Sometimes we used 3/4 ply under the path of travel...

But sure as shooting, some cowboy would jump on one and drive it where ever he needed to go....


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

Gym floors typically aren't set on a wood framed system. I'd take a serious look at the beefiness of the floor assembly before I would set a lift on it.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

rustyjames said:


> Gym floors typically aren't set on a wood framed system. I'd take a serious look at the beefiness of the floor assembly before I would set a lift on it.


VERY common for hardwood gym floors to be set on wood runners, with rubber cushions set under them. The finish floor is then laid on top. Referred to as a "cushion" floor, supposed to be easier on the knees, ankles etc...

Pretty cool floors...


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## We Fix Houses (Aug 15, 2007)

What if there is a problem...then what ?

At minimum your going to deflect the floor system and not know it until the finishes are going in -- imo..


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Finishes were on, no problems...

Done it several times, especially retrofitting lighting and audio systems.


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## Jonbuild (Nov 18, 2013)

I have just done it, we had 12” TJI floor joust max span is 14’ with warmboard for subfloor (which if your not familiar with WM it is 1 1/8” subfloor with groves for floor heat tubes) 

I had it there for the electricians rough-in to finish trim-out, I thought about putting 5/8th sheathing down but decided not, I was mostly worried I would damage the heat tube grooves, but no grooves where damaged  I was running a GS1930, not exactly sure the weight of it, we also had timber truss roof so it was well worth the three month rental...



















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