# Hanging methods, screws vs. glue



## carpenter 22 (Nov 21, 2004)

just relocated to the NE from the SW, where all wall drywall was hung with nails or screws every 10 -12" , I'm finding here some guys go with PL glue and one screw in the center of the board. What is the lifespan of this method ?


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Not long. One screw in the middle doesn't cut it. I'm no sheetrock expert, but the same scenario applies to our floor sheathing. If we put one nail in the middle, the span that is between the nails will not have a complete bond and fail.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Im sure alot of ppl hang this way but i never bought into it. It doesnt seem like it would save time to me. Plus when insulating i like to pull the lips of the kraft face over the face of the stud/joist then overlap the next one to create a continuous vapor barrier. Not sure if its neccesary or not but its the way ive always done it.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

One screw won't pull it tight to the studs, it would probably make your wall more wavy then the pacific ocean.

Glued drywall is stupidly hard to remove so I wouldnt worry about the sheet falling off.

My father always glued his sheetrock but used half the screws.


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

glue, nail 4 or 8 nails on the outside to hold, screw every 16"...


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## matt grisham (Aug 17, 2008)

*dry wall*

when hanging dry wall with glue only ,you always prey bow your sheets where the middle touches thin fasten at top and bottoms woks really well


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

If and when I run into glued sheetrock I'll place a curse on that mans family that will never go away. 

Do you know what that would mean to a guy in the remod/rehab business? It would totally blow an estimate.

It might be fast and easy for you guys but give a thought to those coming in behind you.


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## Ancient Rocker (Jul 25, 2009)

*Unbelievable Post*

This is the most assinine post ever. Since when is it the drywall hanger's responsibility to make a remodeler's job "easier"? If you are cursing because it is so difficult to remove, then we have done a superb job to ensure the walls and ceilings are as tight as possible. Your me first attitude is childish and selfish. If there is a possibility it might be glued, then price it accordingly. Seems quite logical to me. If you hired a hanger, I hope you want the BEST job, not the most advantageous to a job that might be remodeled. I just realized you might have posted this as a joke. If you did, you put one over on me. If you are serious you need to find a different forum for your misguided,misinformed,and amateur musings. :furious:


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## Ancient Rocker (Jul 25, 2009)

*Simpleton*

Your disrespectful and condescending statement about faster and easier proves you should stay in another forum. It is not easier or faster to glue, but better. If you have a problem with that, that is a reflection of your values, which seem to be in the tiniest minority. I don't believe any one has told to do a job, but don't do it the best way. If you think quoting Einstein elevates your intelligence, it didn't work. Please go back and reevaluate your attempt to sound knowledgable about drywall and let professionals exchange ideas. I am sure you will respond and say some thing equally profound, but you need to research the subject before posting such drivel.:laughing:


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

> If and when I run into glued sheetrock I'll place a curse on that mans family that will never go away.


Yeah, I agree we shouldn't glue subflooring either, only use box-nails, never glue trim, never glue crown...that way its much easyer to take houses apart during a re-model....heck maby lego would work well.


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## Gary H (Dec 10, 2008)

In my area of Michigan, all the hangers glue the walls and set one screw in the middle of the sheet and every stud along the edge. On the ceiling, no glue but 3 screws in the field per truss. They used to fasten to every stud but there is a big problem with screw pops.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Here in Florida we do alot of remodels. Thank god they don't glue here:thumbup: :thumbup: 
When I started out in the ealy 70's we glued and nailed everything. Moved here to Florida in 79........threw away my glue gun and picked up a screw gun.

We make alot of changes before we finish and I often think what a pain it would be if we glued and nailed Sure would add alot to the bill.
By the way, how do you get all that glue off the studs when you do do remodels?


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## doitallman (Sep 29, 2009)

*Drywall Fastening*

Drywall fastening techniques are different in quake zones. The glue and screw method is the best. If you use a screw every 12 inches and glue that is the best fastening method. Commercial and residential is different. Lumber spits nails and creates pops. Whats the big deal when you have automatic strip :whistlingscrew guns.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

Man....wow...holy cow...a simple post like this started world war 3....
For you remodels out there , sorry if we screw up your estimates, but its your responsibility to check things out first...if the wall is glued, you need to add for that. But for you skeptics out there, GLUE is better, Somewhat faster for the finisher, painter, and less problems in the end. As for the boarders, its is a bit faster, but its well worth the extra effort. If the sheets are glued, properly to the studs, meaning proper drywall glue, and not PL than you will maximize the bond, and have way less problems. For you out there that have hung sheet rock for 30 years and always done with screws, and would never glue....you need to get with the times, and maximize your time, and maximize your profits. We are turning out a far better product in the end, and with my company, we have not fixd a single screw pop in 3 years. We use to have to go an fix several a month. but since we have not been depending on screws to hold the sheet, its been nice to know that the glue is holding and doing its job.
Give it a try,,,, glue a sheet with drywall glue, and put one screw every second or third stud..let set for several days, at normal room temp...that sheet will not come off in one peice.


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## Ancient Rocker (Jul 25, 2009)

*read very carefully*

I know this is repeating myself,but apparently few are reading and comprehending. AARC is 99% correct about glue. It is not faster to glue and screw compared to only screwing, even if it's negligible. If you are foolish enough to believe only screwing is the best way, you are either stupid and/or stuborn. I have been gluing and screwing ceilings and walls for 38 years and had zero problems or complaints. I don't understand the amateurs who don't glue ceilings. Please enlighten me. By reducing the amount of fasteners by at least 50%, every one is a winner. Our responsibility as hangers is to make sure the drywall is as tight and flat as possible and that is ONLY achieved by gluing and screwing. If you want to live in the past, you can never move forward.:clap:


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Ancient, perhaps before going off on a tirade you could explain the ADVANTAGES of gluing.

I live in So. FL. Everything here has to meet OUR code which is one of the toughest in the Nation. I have not seen one job where anyone has used glue. I have no idea why anyone would do this.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

perhaps you are right.....i apologize.

Glue. 
The benefits are as follows. When you glue the studs in a 1/4 to 1/2" continuous bead down each stud, you gain more bonding area for the drywall sheet to the stud, on all studs. Rather than having the screws bonding the drywall to the studs, in two the three spots per stud. Where as glue is a continuous bond for the whole stud on the back of the sheet. 
Because you are using glue, you will only require one screw every few studs. Now this is a topic on its own, so that is for a later post. We put screws every second stud, screw or nails top and bottoms and sides. What this does is sucks the sheet to the studs and when the glue is allowd to set, it will hold the drywall from the back of the sheet rather than the front. And by having less screws, you have less to fill, less mud or materials, and less labor to coat screws. Also the main advantage of glue is that you will have far less drywall screw pops, and call backs.
As for time, it takes about 20 seconds to glue a 12' by 4' area, if you know what you are doing and are well practiced. 
So basically that is it. there are other advantages, but above is the main.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Now look at it from my POV. MY guys are hanging while YOUR guys are applying glue. I'm still missing the advantage.

I'm 58, Dad was a CBC, You aren't dealing with a newbie.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

Ancient Rocker said:


> I know this is repeating myself,but apparently few are reading and comprehending. AARC is 99% correct about glue. It is not faster to glue and screw compared to only screwing, even if it's negligible. If you are foolish enough to believe only screwing is the best way, you are either stupid and/or stuborn. I have been gluing and screwing ceilings and walls for 38 years and had zero problems or complaints. *I don't understand the amateurs who don't glue ceilings.* Please enlighten me. By reducing the amount of fasteners by at least 50%, every one is a winner. Our responsibility as hangers is to make sure the drywall is as tight and flat as possible and that is ONLY achieved by gluing and screwing. If you want to live in the past, you can never move forward.:clap:


We don't glue ceilings in Florida, if we don't use 5/8" boards, we will use 1/2" ceiling boards and I haven't seen them sag.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I'm still asking 'why glue?' 

I guess that it could be considered a structural component until it got wet?


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## MacRoadie (Dec 9, 2007)

For me, the ONLY book that matters is the Code book. Obviously, in Canada the code allows you to glue, here in the States you can but only in conjunction with traditional fasteners and only with significantly more fasteners than the pro-adhesive advocates apparently use.

I can read and I have read the book(s).


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## ARI001 (Jun 16, 2009)

MacRoadie said:


> For me, the ONLY book that matters is the Code book.


I disagree with that statement. The code is the absolute minimum applicable standard. A true professional understands this and whenever feasible will try to exceed the code requirements. 

One should also always be willing to try and improve the methods they use in order to provide a better end product and increase productivity. Reading about other methods used by various tradesman is a very inexpensive way to learn what works, what may not work, and what may be cost prohibitive.


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## MacRoadie (Dec 9, 2007)

ARI001 said:


> I disagree with that statement. The code is the absolute minimum applicable standard. A true professional understands this and whenever feasible will try to exceed the code requirements.
> 
> One should also always be willing to try and improve the methods they use in order to provide a better end product and increase productivity. Reading about other methods used by various tradesman is a very inexpensive way to learn what works, what may not work, and what may be cost prohibitive.


I agree with you 100% as to the Code being the minimum standard and that we should strive to exceed it whenever possible. My point here is that the adhesive methods AS DESCRIBED HERE don't even meet that minimum standard and until there is a code-approved adhesive method that allows for the extreme fastener spacing advocated in this thread, we have to follow the Code.


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## superdeez (Oct 28, 2008)

Glue or not, when it comes time for the screw inspection down here, esp. on commercial work, one every other stud/joist/whatever will get you red tagged.

Give me my SuperDrive and a box of screws.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

Capt-Sheetrock said:


> Glue is way better???? in your opinion
> 
> Glue is faster??? yeah, in your mind your a legend
> Don't know bout you, but i am in the drywall buss to make a living If you think that glue is faster, you have obviously never seen professional drywall hangers at work
> ...


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

MacRoadie said:


> I agree with you 100% as to the Code being the minimum standard and that we should strive to exceed it whenever possible. My point here is that the adhesive methods AS DESCRIBED HERE don't even meet that minimum standard and until there is a code-approved adhesive method that allows for the extreme fastener spacing advocated in this thread, we have to follow the Code.




100% correct the code book is a min standard...and any good contractor of any sort will not go below the code.
Here in BC we do not have drywall inspection, sometimes i think that we should to get rid of the fly by nighters.....the inspectors here in pg, only enforse the codes min standard, and unfortunately some of them have no clue what they are talking about at the best of times. When this happens the enginere will over rule their desisions.


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## ARI001 (Jun 16, 2009)

According to IRC Table R702.3.5 drywall installed with adhesive must have a maximum fastener spacing of 12" to 16" on ceilings and 16" to 24" on walls depending on board orientation and fasteners used. This does not equate out to 2 to 4 fasteners per sheet max. Type X in garages beneath habitable rooms installed perpendicular to the framing (required) requires fastening 6" o.c.


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