# two different gaps for same grout job



## jtequipment (Feb 5, 2010)

So Ive got a customer who speced out 4-1/4 glazed tile for the bathroom walls and a center border with 1x1 natural stone. The border divides the wall from top to bottom right under the window ledge. The question I have is the glazed tile has gaps at 1/16 inch while the 1x1 stone has 3/16 gaps, as they were adhered to mesh in strips. I have used laticrete sanded grout in the past for this issue but CANT find it anywhere where I am. Lowes carried it for a while now its S.nly. Ive got to get this part done by tuesday dont have time to wait for the laticrete to find its way to me.

My question is can I just apply mapei unsanded to the majority, keeping it away from the 3/16 gaps... let it set up, then follow hours later with the sanded for the large gaps? 

I miss my laticrete!


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Are you floating all the walls out? How are you dealing with the different thickness between the stone and the creramic tile?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

This is a bit confusing. What "issue" does Laticrete solve that other brands of grout can't? :blink:

If you MUST have Laticrete, try a _real _tile store....


*Daltile*
6395 CORPORATE CENTRE CIR
COLORADO SPRINGS, CO 80919
719-260-7000


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## jtequipment (Feb 5, 2010)

difference in thickness was only measured to a 16th. last row of glazed tile above the stone was floated to match the difference and the first row Under the stone was done the same way. Its so close you can barely feel the difference.

to answer the second question laticrete specs state that their sandedcan be used for gaps 1/16-1/ 2 inch

mapei specs 1/6-1/8th with unsanded, 1/8-5/8 with sanded.

I am trying to kill two birds with one stone.

Havent tried daltile as of yet, was under the impression they only carried epoxy laticrete products...hmm.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

ANSI and TCNA standards and recommendations say < 1/8" = unsanded. I realize that Laticrete says otherwise. However, the ultimate deciding factor will be the manufacture of the tiles. What do they say?


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## Kyras (Jan 2, 2010)

Yes, you can. This is the way I would go, however...

Unsanded on the field if that's what you feel is correct (and it sounds right), then a mix of unsanded and sanded for the mosaic. I use a proportion of 10 pounds unsanded/25 pounds sanded more or less to taste. Too much unsanded, it will shrink as it dries and be a bit sticky. Too much sanded and it might be a bit rough next to the other joints. I wouldn't feel a strong need to wait between, but I might do the mosaic first to avoid sand contaminating the field joints.

I often will do a blend like that, but frankly it depends on the grout brand (and the aggregate size/quantity) in the sanded grout as to how helpful it is. Bonsal grout is a bit sandy for my taste, but that's the brand the main retailer sells, hence the mix.


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## jtequipment (Feb 5, 2010)

angus I appreciate the insight. the tiles are american olean, the specify a joint 1/16 inch, of course. But getting away from the original post, since I do have 2 different joint widths, would you stick with mapei products and grout using both sanded and unsanded in their respective joints at two different times?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Kyras is a very qualified tile technician. You may want to consider his recommendations.

What would I do? Use QuartzLock urethane grout and call it a day!


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## jtequipment (Feb 5, 2010)

haha yeah I was in the middle of typing my reply to you when he typed his in! I appreciate all the insight EVERYONE!


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## MattCoops (Apr 7, 2006)

If it's just a single row of 1x1 tile as a single border, why not rip them suckers off the mesh and install them individually, maintaining the same grout width as the rest of the field tile.
If it was my bathroom, i'd want to know why the tile had differing grout widths.


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## jtequipment (Feb 5, 2010)

you wouldnt wonder if you, the customer, asked for it.


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## Kyras (Jan 2, 2010)

We install strips like that all the time. It generally looks fine. The only question in my head is the space between the strip (top and bottom) and the field and which joint size to use. Some of that depends on the strip, because if its glass or its itty bitty or maybe thinner than the field. Many times I will run a lathe strip or some such as a brace, finish the entire field and set the strip the next day while doing niches, floor, etc. Then I leave a gap on top and bottom the same as the strip for safety so I don't squish my strip. That way the strip is easily and dependably brought even with the other tiles.

Amazing how sometimes the strip just goes POW and makes it all look sweet. Other times, not so much. We ran a strip of waterjets that were $250/ lin ft for a 6 inch tall strip. It was okay, but not worth the $4000+ they spend on just the strip. The rest was all 18" Jerusalem stone and it was very tasty.


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