# Tapering Jig for ripping long tapers?



## big builder (Feb 26, 2008)

Hello everyone, I am looking for a design for a tapering jig. We rip alot of long tapered sleepers ( 16') and have done with skil saws for many years.

I would like to use the big table saw in the shop and pre cut these tapers to have them ready for projects. We generally rip 1/4" per foot.

If someone hase a nice simple set up I would greatly appreciate hearing about it.

Thank you


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Track saw


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Track saw


+1 + in the field.

Tom


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Even in the shop. Rail saw is an easy set up.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Sorry, brain fart.


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## Nick R (May 20, 2012)

Get another 16' board that has a straight edge, set your tablesaw fence to the width of the board. Then, tack the board to be cut set to the taper against the guide board, then run through saw. 

Gary Katz has a jig that does the same thing- take a look. http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/tapered_columns.html


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Question answered.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

I've made some nice taper jigs for the TS but not over 8'. At that point it's easier to use a circ. saw and guide or a track saw. The problem lies in having a 16' long guide the is dead straight all the time. You could probable rig one using aluminum plate but it seems like a waste.


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

the makita tracks can be had for under $200 shipped per 118"

just know that there is a anti-tip lip on the track that conflicts with some of festools router/track accessories and parallel guides.


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## thezoo (Sep 13, 2008)

Why does the guideboard have to be 16'? Sometimes I need visualization....


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

thezoo said:


> Why does the guideboard have to be 16'? Sometimes I need visualization....


So it can ride along the fence. With a taper jig it's the guide the rides the fence, not the work piece.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

There is no reason the guide board needs to be one piece nor is there a reason it needs to be dimension lumber. Could be just a piece of plywood/osb with clips to attach to the stock. The plywood would be more stable long term.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Gus Dering said:


> I think all you need is an auxiliary fence with a 1/4" per foot taper on it.
> 
> If you are making one taper cut then one straight to capture the off fall of the first, make the fence so it slips over your regular fence so it is removed easily.


 This was a total brain fart. Don't do it. It would never work.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

Gus Dering said:


> This was a total brain fart. Don't do it. It would never work.


Too late, I just did. Does anyone know what size pliers are best for removing a 1x6 board from my intestines? It's maple if that helps.:whistling


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

EthanB said:


> Too late, I just did. Does anyone know what size pliers are best for removing a 1x6 board from my intestines? It's maple if that helps.:whistling


 Just pull it out and quit crying :laughing:


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Gus Dering said:


> Just pull it out and quit crying :laughing:


You might think you're smart, but I actually did put this brain fart into action years ago. No pliers needed - I just pulled the 2x4 the rest of the way through the wall. Not my proudest moment.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

CarpenterSFO said:


> You might think you're smart, but I actually did put this brain fart into action years ago. No pliers needed - I just pulled the 2x4 the rest of the way through the wall. Not my proudest moment.


 Smart? :no:

I'm the dumbest guy I know. Can we just keep that between the two of us? :whistling


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

Hmmm.

16' through the table saw...

...and I'm assuming this is 2X material.

You're jig would have to be at least 8' long clamped against the fence of the table saw for starters.

With the way that 2x framing is today, there is no way I would clamp up a jig to it and let even someone with "average" experience on a table saw run that.

1/4" per foot over 16' your talking a 4" taper on a 2x6:sad:

That's a lot!!!

...and to cut it across the linear growth of the 2x6:blink:

I've ripped a lot of stuff on the site table saw, the shop saw, and with the worm drive.

I've had kiln dried hardwood close itself up on the kerf to the point where 3' beyond the blade, the two pieces are now sliding past each other.

What you are asking for is a bad pinch and or kickback on the saw.

*(if you haven't gotten it yet, I'm not recommending this on any sort of "shop" saw. The wood just gets too unpredictable when you cut it like that. )*

My recommendation:

...and I'm gonna go a little old school with this:

Get a 16' aluminum concrete float, figure out your taper and screw "register" blocks to the ends of the float.

Take the float, slap it on your stack of 2x6's and draw a line.

(Draw the line in a fine point pen if you have to)

Get a few of your guys proficient with the circular saw (preferably, a worm drive) and let them RIP.

The worm drive will not bog down like a table saw will with what your trying to do with it. And after a few day you will find that the guys can perform this procedure way faster and WAY safer, than trying to do this on a table saw.

-Scott


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

All joking aside. Don't attach anything to the TS fence to make it out of parallel to the blade. You will get a kickback.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

I wasn't joking about that. :no:


I think there are at least six sentences in there telling him Not to do that.

...No?

...better?

-Scott


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

tenon0774 said:


> Get a 16' aluminum concrete float, figure out your taper and screw "register" blocks to the ends of the float.
> 
> Take the float, slap it on your stack of 2x6's and draw a line.
> 
> ...


I can't believe a "skilled" trades person would suggest such silly method?

Just use a chalk line and a hand saw!

But really if your gonna go spend $400-$500 on a concrete float to use as a straight edge just go and buy a track saw.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

BCConstruction said:


> I can't believe a "skilled" trades person would suggest such silly method?
> 
> Just use a chalk line and a hand saw!
> 
> But really if your gonna go spend $400-$500 on a concrete float to use as a straight edge just go and buy a track saw.


I got Fetooled again...

I concede...


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## fourcornerhome (Feb 19, 2008)

> Too late, I just did. Does anyone know what size pliers are best for removing a 1x6 board from my intestines? It's maple if that helps.


:whistling 










That didn't work...it was giant pliers


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> I can't believe a "skilled" trades person would suggest such silly method?
> 
> Just use a chalk line and a hand saw!
> 
> But really if your gonna go spend $400-$500 on a concrete float to use as a straight edge just go and buy a track saw.


And if he already owns a float, but not a track saw, is your advice still to do it your way? What if the monies not in budget for a new track saw, rack up debt to do it your way?

I've spent most of my career making do with what I had to get the job done till I could afford the tools that make it easier or more efficient. That ability is what seperates many of us from our competition & financially sound.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

pinwheel said:


> And if he already owns a float, but not a track saw, is your advice still to do it your way? What if the monies not in budget for a new track saw, rack up debt to do it your way?
> 
> I've spent most of my career making do with what I had to get the job done till I could afford the tools that make it easier or more efficient. That ability is what seperates many of us from our competition & financially sound.


He can do it anyway he likes. I used to do it free hand, jigs, guides and then decided to move to the best of the lot the track saw. We can only tell him what our experiance is. If I has a 16ft straight edge I still would have got a track saw at some point. I wish I purchased one to start of with.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

pinwheel said:


> And if he already owns a float, but not a track saw, is your advice still to do it your way? What if the monies not in budget for a new track saw, rack up debt to do it your way?
> 
> I've spent most of my career making do with what I had to get the job done till I could afford the tools that make it easier or more efficient. That ability is what seperates many of us from our competition & financially sound.


He already had a way to do it. He was looking to see if there was an easier way to accomplish his task.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

Just snap a chalk line and take your time with worm saw.


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## big builder (Feb 26, 2008)

Hello Gentlemen I am very sorry to not have been part of this discussion. I didn't realize that my email notifications were going to an old address and I hade assumed no one had replied. I just checked old address and saw everyones comments. Thank you so much.

Yes we just set up the same old jig and ripped with skil saw.

I am going to attached a picture of the cutting.


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## Reilly (Oct 6, 2019)

I have a track saw. It’s slow difficult. I just found this video. It looks perfect. I’m building g one of these for a bathroom project I’m doing that has severely crooked walls 


https://youtu.be/IGK3w2I_Bms

https://youtu.be/-693rYQITM0


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## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

big builder said:


> Hello Gentlemen I am very sorry to not have been part of this discussion. I didn't realize that my email notifications were going to an old address and I hade assumed no one had replied. I just checked old address and saw everyones comments. Thank you so much.
> 
> Yes we just set up the same old jig and ripped with skil saw.
> 
> I am going to attached a picture of the cutting.


well nothing wrong with that jig . simple ,works .


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