# Stucco Panels Water damage



## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I took down some stucco panels that got water on the back side, caused them to belly at the bottom of the panels, I'm replacing three there are three others that you can see they are starting to belly. I'm gonna try and draw them back to the framing with deck screws. here's some pictures


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

The reason the panels failed was cause of the Painters not doing their job. Here's where the water came from:whistling


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Hardi makes a stucco panel. Won't match exactly with those, but if your replacing more than a few..................


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Good job Frankwitz. :thumbsup:


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

I have 40sq of that I have to rip off to replace with vinyl. The original panels were poorly installed Masonite. Home owner was sick of paying for new hardi panels one at a time


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

Sometimes the painters caulk too well. I did some rot repair on the upstairs section of a house overhanging a pool that the painters caulked the drip edge at the bottom of the siding. In three short years the outside floor joists (doubled at that) were almost rotted through. Mildew was growing through back of the crappy Masonite siding. I could not find anywhere that water was getting in behind the siding, but moisture could not escape as it was sealed up tight as a drum.
Steve



Frankawitz said:


> The reason the panels failed was cause of the Painters not doing their job. Here's where the water came from:whistling


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I will be replacing three panels, but with the two different styles of stucco panels the size of the Hardi stucco boards are 4'x8' sheets and the stuff that is up on the house are 10'x4' sheets so I may have to work something out to line up batten boards, but there is water damage on other panels so I may have to refigure the whole side of the house with all new hardi stucco board. here's some pictures of hardi stucco panels.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Here are the pictures we talked about Frank.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

nice work :thumbsup:

i dont know about blaming the painters tho,thats a crappy detail from the start,relying on caulk on a horizontal joint is doomed to fail

there needs to be metal z


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Paulie 
I don't know if it's me but those windows don't have any trim or case mouldings, was this a HomeOwner build? I would have trimmed those windows out with some type of trim. then you could work something in to cover the seams of the stucco boards, but these type of stucco panels need batten boards to cover the seams.

Tom I think even a couple pieces of flashing would have worked, but thats how they build them up here, cut corners were they can.

Paulie 
Looking at the pictures the owner should have had the carpenter just trim those windows with 1x8 ruff saw cedar or something otherthen stucco panels, that's lame, I think wood would have worked out better


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Frankawitz said:


> Paulie
> I don't know if it's me but those windows don't have any trim or case mouldings, was this a Homeowner build?
> 
> Yep, I framed and sheeted the addition and left it for the HO to go from there. I got a call awhile back to install the windows and doors (HO bought). I said OK and went and did that. The windows are meant for siding that's why when I got the last call for help I just figured it was double 4 or the like. When I saw what he bought my jaw dropped. I told the HO this (4x8 hardie) is not meant for this application. HO responded with "I just wanted to button it up for winter and I think it will look fine". I said OK but there will be seams that show he then walked over and held up a bag with 5 tubes of caulk.
> ...


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i think the battens,atleast the horizontal ones cause most of the problem
your probably better off just caulking and painting the seams


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

HO likes it :laughing: Some people hey, Yeah you could use masonary caulk it's grity but it's caulk you know it will fail at some point. you could open a bigger gap between the panels and then use wire mesh then use some mortar add some sand and Latex Fortifier that may work, but man this is a pain, the other thing I was thinking maybe strips of lattice adhesive caulk and finish nails to cover the seams paint same color as stucco panels. I don't know Paulie this is a hard one, HO's sure can throw a wrench in the engine work can't they:laughing::no:


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I got the last panel down and then I put up two of the replacement panels. here's some more pictures.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I am going out todayand get the lastpanel up then I'll have the batten boards to put up.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

seems like the vent was the culprit,maybe you need some type of pan?


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I'm going to make up a piece of flashing for the underside of the vent trim.


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## Red Adobe (Jul 26, 2008)

Z flash in the horizontal joints then the trim boards is how we did it when I was framing.
Even if the painter would have cualked chances are in a year it would have had gaps anyways at least with the flashing it wont allow water behind the lower sheet

I hate stuccoto (masonite) , its gotta be the cheesiest siding I know of but hey its cheap and easy.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Well I got the ;ast sheet up and then starting put up batten boards. I hope I get this done today cause they are calling for snow on Thursday:w00t:


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

*How does that wall breath?*

Isn't there suppose to be a way for air to circulate behind the stucco so it can dry out.

I have seen local Stucco crews here in Vancouver use rain screens and vent strips so the stucco can dry out. And I see no flashing at all around the window or horizontal wood trim.

Your install looks like stucco up hard against building paper.

Perhaps the codes haven't changed in your parts.

Your repair looks good but I'm guessing your back every 3-5 years for the same problem.


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