# hanging vertical versus horizontal



## RLLD

I have a situation where hanging the drywall horizontal will still leave about 20 inches where I would need to cut another piece to apply at the bottom. The idea of taping that makes me think that I will actually work less by going vertical, in this instance. make sense?


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## avenge

I just finished a garage where the drywallers hung 12 footers horizontally. the ceiling was 9 foot and they pieced it in the middle, that was stupid. I don't like the taper at the bottom either, it messes with my base.

I know drywallers like horizontal but I don't hang mine that way if it creates a butt seam. Unless the framing isn't 16" OC and vertically creates more seams. I stay away from butt seams as much as possible.


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## SteveinNEPA

Ill rail road (run horizontal) a room IF the rock wont have a butt seam. If there will be butt seams Ill run them vertical so I keep all seams tapered. Hell is was how I was taught and I havent had any issues yet. Well except once, but it wasnt my fault, the home owners son got drunk and fell into and and then out of the wall... Went right between the studs. So I had to replace the whole damn sheet...


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## jaydee

RLLD said:


> I have a situation where hanging the drywall horizontal will still leave about 20 inches where I would need to cut another piece to apply at the bottom.


#1 hang ceiling.

#2 24" rip cut side up against ceiling

#3 full sheet taper to taper

#4 tape up cut down

good for base trim, not to low for plasterer / mudder.


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## jaydee

as far as horizontal or vertical.

vertical is acceptable, if all non beveled edges hit the plates.

my plaster, hanger screw but seams ever 8-10"
couldn't do it on high or cathedral ceilings without blocking walls.


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## Quad Racer

That's the way to do it jaydee. Start with a 24" ripper at the top.

I apply all sheeting the same way. Perpendicular to the framing.


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## jaydee

Thanks for ageing with me.

I'm not the finisher. But, make they're life easier and they'll make
the finish guy's easier. Oh that's me.....


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## ubcguy89

On commercial projects with metal studs hanging stand ups is part of the interior system. In order to get your fire rating you need 5/8 board to break on a stud. Then you stack sheets on top (topping off). On residential jobs you lay down to hides seams it's an easier finish


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## Calidecks

SteveinNEPA said:


> Ill rail road (run horizontal) a room IF the rock wont have a butt seam. If there will be butt seams Ill run them vertical so I keep all seams tapered. Hell is was how I was taught and I havent had any issues yet. Well except once, but it wasnt my fault, the home owners son got drunk and fell into and and then out of the wall... Went right between the studs. So I had to replace the whole damn sheet...


IRC R702.3.5 allows either


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## hdavis

I like going vertical on this one.


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## Big Shoe

Both ways for me. Depends on the job.


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## jb4211

Both depending on situation


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## Quad Racer

ubcguy89 said:


> On commercial projects with metal studs hanging stand ups is part of the interior system. In order to get your fire rating you need 5/8 board to break on a stud. Then you stack sheets on top (topping off). On residential jobs you lay down to hides seams it's an easier finish


I used to finish on a commercial crew and yes all the board was vertical. We used the bazookas and boxes for everything. Residential is a whole other animal.


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## ubcguy89

Quad Racer said:


> I used to finish on a commercial crew and yes all the board was vertical. We used the bazookas and boxes for everything. Residential is a whole other animal.


Im a commercial guy, I do a little residential and in my experience residential is lay downs for quality control. Commercial is stand ups for fire rating, ceiling heights would not make sense for lay downs, and it's just the norm commercial stand ups. With that being said I have layed down commercial and stood up residential


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## Quad Racer

Its always good to be flexible. Different jobs call for different approaches at different times.

I kinda miss slinging the mud. I ran all the tops (12' acoustical ceiling usually) so was on stilts all day everyday for years. They hurt my feet too much to wear now and Im old so I sold them.


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## Big Shoe

RLLD said:


> I have a situation where hanging the drywall horizontal will still leave about 20 inches where I would need to cut another piece to apply at the bottom. The idea of taping that makes me think that I will actually work less by going vertical, in this instance. make sense?


No. :no:




avenge said:


> I just finished a garage where the drywallers hung 12 footers horizontally. the ceiling was 9 foot and they pieced it in the middle, that was stupid.


I guess I've been stupid all my life. The finishers must have been stupid too, they never complained. :whistling




jaydee said:


> #1 hang ceiling.
> 
> #2 24" rip cut side up against ceiling
> 
> #3 full sheet taper to taper
> 
> #4 tape up cut down
> 
> good for base trim, not to low for plasterer / mudder.


This makes no sense (to me) on a 9'-8'' wall. 20'' rip on the bottom is fine. We had a rule of thumb that a 16'' would be as small as we would go on a bottom rip. That being said. we had a crew of finishers on a project once that ask us to put the 24'' rips on top. (10' wall)
The majority of the time on 10'+ the rip goes on the bottom.


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## 66 Shelby

I almost always do horizontal, and the rip always goes on the bottom so the base has a nice flat surface to lay on.


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## jaydee

I was assuming 9-1/2 ceiling height

putting the rip on the top allows the finishers to stay on stilts
and not have to bend all the way to floor.

I also give a non tapered bottom for the person that comment on that part.

I'm not a plasterer, which is what we use here. At a buck a sq ft for finishing.
I make it easier on them.


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## jaydee

NOTE: I'm talking plaster not mud.......


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## jb4211

Where's here?


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## jaydee

were I am is here.

were you are is there.

OH, the state ..........

Massachusetts, central and east.


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## jb4211

I like plaster, but don't see it much here in Philly. Older homes, yes, not new ones.

I thought that was a dying art like flare connections. Oh, that's right, all of the flare connection experts are on this site. lol


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## scottktmrider

I allways have been told if you hang vertical especially on new wood there is a better chance for the seams to crack with the drying out of the wood makes since
Plus hanging vertical the stud layout has to be dead on and plumb.


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## fjn

glasses97 said:


> The following is quoted from a drywall manufacture
> 
> "Gypsum board may be applied perpendicular (long edges of board at
> Parallel Application right angles to the framing members) or parallel (long edges parallel to
> framing). Fire-rated partitions may require parallel application (see
> Chapter 10 for specific information on fire-rated systems).
> Perpendicular application generally is preferred because it offers the
> following advantages:
> 1. Reduces the lineal footage of joints to be treated up to 25%.
> 2. Strongest dimension of board runs across framing members.
> 3. Bridges irregularities in alignment and spacing of frame members.
> 4. Better bracing strength—each board ties more frame members
> together than does parallel application.
> 5. Horizontal joints on wall are at a convenient height for finishing.
> For wall application, if ceiling height is 2460 mm (81) or less,
> perpendicular application of standard 1220 mm (4) wide panels
> results in fewer joints, easier handling and less cutting. If ceiling height
> is greater than 2460 mm (81) or wall is 1220 mm (4 ft.) wide or less,
> parallel application is more practical."






This is good info. Many moons ago,it appeared in JLC. One thing I would add,no matter how hung,opposite side of wall should have seams staggered for optimum wall strength.


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## ToolNut

Those that are afraid of butt joints check into Trim Tex butt boards. Those with 9' foot ceilings the 1' belly band is quite acceptable and done every day. But this can be eliminated by using 54" drywall. And I hang horiz. in most places but there are situations where vertical works best. Sometimes in the same room. For instance you have a short section of wall under 48" instead of putting a seam in the middle just stand one up. Do the rest of the room horiz.

One thing I don't like about the whole room vertical is even if the framing is perfect you only have 3/4" for the edge of each sheet. If the framing is less than perfect you can have a nightmare and can even end up having to add more studs to screw to.


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## Quad Racer

Those that are afraid of butt joints should hire a pro to do the finishing for them.:whistling

Another side note to hanging parallel to the studs (vertical) is twisted studs. When you hang vertical on twisted studs it makes a mess. If the board was perpendicular the twist isn't as much of a concern. That applies mostly in commercial applications but I have seen twisted studs in homes also.


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## jb4211

Quad Racer said:


> Those that are afraid of butt joints should hire a pro to do the finishing for them.:whistling
> .


I don't think anyone is afraid of butt joints. It's just more time consuming no matter who does it.


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## Quad Racer

Im not going to argue techniques. If you can eliminate an 8' vertical flat or two by adding a single 4' butt joint it's not faster. I've hung and finished thousands of sheets I'll do it my way others can do it thiers.


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## Mountain Man

Thousands of sheets??? Gosh that's a lot!! But seriously I hate finishing stand up joints myself!! Even on commercial it's rarely don't here.


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## Quad Racer

Yeah it was alot. I did 5 years commercially in office buildings. We used the bazookas and boxes for everything. The crew that I was a part of would normally do a few hundred a week. I got to know a couple things about spreading mud.


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## scottktmrider

Quad Racer said:


> Those that are afraid of butt joints should hire a pro to do the finishing for them.:whistling
> 
> Another side note to hanging parallel to the studs (vertical) is twisted studs. When you hang vertical on twisted studs it makes a mess. If the board was perpendicular the twist isn't as much of a concern. That applies mostly in commercial applications but I have seen twisted studs in homes also.


If your talking about metal studs being twisted, as long as the layout is on and you hang to the opened end on the studs you will have no twisting. that's why I like framing and hanging on metal because you don't have to worry about twisted bowed studs


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## Quad Racer

Yip the metal studs with inexperienced hangers. We'd get the blame every time for a "bad" finish on the twisted studs. With the boxes its virtually impossible to over mud a joint.


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## blacktop

Stand ups are WEAK! It's just that simple!


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## sandshooter

try hanging a 12' sheets by yourself and see whats easier u cannot stack 3 sheets by yourself, but u can stand up 12' sheets on your own and screw them off. no butt joints and us till have to get up there to finish taping.


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## blacktop

sandshooter said:


> try hanging a 12' sheets by yourself and see whats easier u cannot stack 3 sheets by yourself, but u can stand up 12' sheets on your own and screw them off. no butt joints and us till have to get up there to finish taping.


Are you the finisher ?


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## tenon0774

Quad Racer said:


> Those that are afraid of butt joints should hire a pro to do the finishing for them.:whistling
> 
> Another side note to hanging parallel to the studs (vertical) is twisted studs. When you hang vertical on twisted studs it makes a mess. If the board was perpendicular the twist isn't as much of a concern. That applies mostly in commercial applications but I have seen twisted studs in homes also.


The studs still twist even with CRC channel?


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## Quad Racer

I didn't do the framing. Just finishing. And this was 20 years ago right after I graduated high school. I have no idea what crc channel is by name.


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## tenon0774

Quad Racer said:


> I didn't do the framing. Just finishing. And this was 20 years ago right after I graduated high school. I have no idea what crc channel is by name.


Sorry, 
U channel.

I've always known it as CRC.


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## jb4211

I used metal studs from Lowe's and metal studs from a building supply house. Lowe's sucked and were very thin which made it difficult to screw into: the screw would bend the metal rather than go right into it. Just slow going.

The studs from supply house, much thicker and easier to work with. The screws would go right in.

I used course and fine screws. I actually had better results with the course.


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## scottktmrider

tenon0774 said:


> Sorry,
> U channel.
> 
> I've always known it as CRC.
> 
> 
> View attachment 115290


If the wall is layed out and hung right you won't have your studs won't twist. if the drywall is hung to the wrong side of the stud the stud will twist a little and step the drywall. that's what is good about metal vs wood studs is you will have a straight wall


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