# Ford power stroke talk



## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

I might be getting close to getting another truck for the business. This one will be another F, long bed, extra cab, 4x4 auto, but I want a diesel for this one. Will probably keep the price under 20K.

Seems that there is some controversy with the newer powerstrokes?

So as usual, I'll ask the experts what they have to say. What years should I avoid or look toward and anything else to know?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Here are a few things I've posted here previously:

As for issues with an '05 6.0, the 2 big issues with the 6.0 were head gaskets and the EGR system.

Navistar, in their infinite wisdom, decided it didn't need as many head bolt as the previous engine, 7.3. Under stress, the heads can lift and actually stretch the head bolts. That issue was never really fixed. Ford redesigned the head bolts but the real fix is to install aftermarket head studs.

The EGR system can become dirty and clog up. There's an EGR cooler that's prone to failure. The fix has been to remove the EGR system (illegal) but there is now an aftermarket cooler fix for this too. Allowing the truck to excessively idle is not a good idea. You can clog up the EGR system quicker that way.

As with many of the newer electronically controlled injectors, they are prone to failure, mainly from getting dirty. I use a fuel additive to help keep them clean & change my oil at the recommended intervals.

I don't tow a horse trailer up 9° grades nor do I allow my truck to sit an idle extensively. Those 2 things on a completely stock 6.0, along with regular maintenance are enough to keep my truck running fine. Once my warranty is up, I'll spend the $2800 to get the truck studded and the cooler replaced. At that point, I will have no worries.

Should I have to spend that kind of money for what are essentially design flaws? No. Will I glad spend it for what I believe to be the best overall truck made? Yes. 
http://www.contractortalk.com/f41/ford-v8-diesel-78985/
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6.0 powerstrokes have 2 main issues. First one is the heads are rarely machined flat from the factory. That combined with a less than optimal amount of head bolts can lead to the heads lifting enough to get coolant into the cylinders. This problem can be solved by having the heads machined as flat as possible and getting actual head studs installed. It's about a $3000 job. Sucks that it's your responsibility but once done, you will not have any worries there.

Second, the crappy EGR cooling system. The EGR valve and cooler WILL go bad. Not if but when. If you're not lucky enough to have had it replaced under warranty, start saving up now. There is a much better designed aftermarket cooler available. I'd consider getting that installed along with a new valve. Some of the ramifications of the EGR clogging are the turbo gets gunked up too. If not too far gone, it can be cleaned successfully. Because of this EGR stuff, these trucks DO NOT like to be overly idled. There is another resolution to this but suffice to say, it's illegal for on road use. I'll leave it at that.

Those are the 2 main issues with the 6.0

As for a few other things that can go wrong (but also can be avoided), the injectors can clog and malfunction if your oil isn't maintained properly. If you live in a cold climate and use regular oil, consider using 5W30 from Nov-Apr and 15W40 the rest of the time. Change your filters as recommended! I personally recommend adding a remote oil filter. This supplements the main one and will filter down to 1 micron. This will keep your oil from breaking down prematurely and help extend the life of your injectors. If you are going that route, take it one step further and use a synthetic (or blend) oil. I started using Schaeffer 9000 Supreme oil. Good stuff!

You have an '04. There have been some updated parts since then. The HPOP system has changed a bit. I believe an HPOP line was changed and the way the line is clamped to the pump has been updated too. The oil cooler has been updated. And if I'm not mistaken the VGT sensor has changed too. 

Finally, it's a good idea to bring it to someone that can update the programming on the PCM. Having the latest firmware is a good thing. 
http://www.contractortalk.com/f41/6-0-powerstroke-71995/
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As for the 6.4, if you find one in your price range, they get horrible mileage for a diesel because of the emissions. That can be resolved with removal of certain components.



Of course, any emissions altering might be illegal. If you have state-wide testing on diesels, it would be impossible to hide it.

Without any modifications at all, I'd look at '06-'07 6.0. Most of the issues were resolved by then. An '08 6.4 is not justified because of the horrible mileage.


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## Madmaxz (Dec 19, 2010)

www.powerstrokenation.com 

id get a 09-10 6.4


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Madmaxz said:


> id get a 09-10 6.4


Not for under $20K :no:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Of course there's always an '02-'03 7.3. They are not easily found and only have a 4 speed trans. Turning radius on the longer WB is crappy but the motor (aside from cam position sensor) is solid.


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

If you find a 6.0L you like do an oasis report on it that will tell you if it has had problems. What I have found with the 6.0l is they are either problem free or are lemons. There don't seam to be many that fall in between.

I am currently running an F450 with a 6.0L with no problems related to the engine or drivtrain.

Cole


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## kyle_dmr (Mar 17, 2009)

I have an 04 6.0L.
Just had a headgasket go on me. 200k on the odo though, with very little engine issues since new. I ended up studding the engine (ARP), new oil cooler and EGR delete kit, and a long list of other small items that are wise replacements while in there. I am going to have to say Angus is a little low on price for a 3k head job. I am in Canada granted, but I had 2500$ in parts (also did a fuel pump in there), 500$ worth of machine work and I paid CASH at 1500$ in labor. I'd put you at 5k for a good headgasket and stud replacement.

If your looking to stay sub 20k, and looking for what you want you may find yourself in an 06 XLT maybe Lariat (leather). The biggest thing for these trucks is frequent oil changes. Many, many guys on other powerstroke forums all highly say to run a synthetic or blend (T6 or T5 Rotella at the top of the list). I change mine 10k km intervals always and you can notice a large difference instantly on how the truck idles. Like Angus said, keeping up on maintenance on these is a biggie. Also a wise idea to run any type of fuel additive (ULSD just doesn't lube the injectors enough). A lot of guys are finding issues with running the factory Ford Gold coolant in these. The coolant is one of the problems that are causing the egr/oil cooler failures. Switching to an Extended Life Coolant (such as CAT ELC-EC1) is a cheap measure to help the problems.


If you find any trucks you like. Go there on a COLD day, and demand the truck not to be warmed up or ran for the day. Cold starts tell a ton on these engines. Firstly, open the hood and check the degas bottle (coolant overflow bottle). Check the cap and around the top looking for an "puking" which looks like a white dried milky substance. If you see this at all, you have cooler or head problems.
When you goto start the truck, leave the hood up and door open. Put key in and goto "on" and let injectors cycle/preheat. Should head a buzzing/clicking noise. Listen carefully right as soon as you turn the key, you want to hear a smooth buzzing without and skipping. If you hear some buzz buzz buzz ----- buzz buzz but clears up in a second you are still ok. Large amounts of skippage of this may bring you to needing an injector, or few of them. Could also prove to be a FICM dieing.
Once you finally get the truck running, get out and watch the exhaust immediately, looking for large amounts of white smoke (some is to be expected on a cold start), blue smoke (oil), black smoke (injector sticking and dumping raw diesel).

Remember these trucks like to be warm before driving. Letting it idle for a few minutes isn't always a bad thing.
I would like to say though, I do idle a fair bit more then average and when I had my truck into the shop it had a 100% intact EGR cooler. First orgional 2004 cooler with even close to that many k on it that the mechanic had ever seen. My Intake though was quiet carboned up and required hot tanking for 3 days to look quiet good again.

Take the VIN to the dealer, get them to run an OASIS report. Read it carefully and ask lots of questions on it. I'd also suggest looking at the 4x4 autolock hubs. Make sure they "auto".. 300$ a pop replace just to let you know. Not that it has any mechanical issues but the overhead computer that displays temp,MPG,compass are known to fail and not display on the LCD screen. Might be worth haggling the 150$ for a new one if they want to play hardball on price.

Kyle


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## not2late (Mar 31, 2005)

I have a 2000 7.3 6 speed supercab. Purchased new. 429,000 miles now. Bone stock. No chips, no mods. No engine work. Its pulled a 24 foot enclosed trailer for a good portion of that mileage. 

Put in the first alternator last May. Changed out the original serpentine belt at that time also. New starter in June. Beyond shocks, brakes, one set of ball joints, one clutch replacement and the front u-joint nothing major has needed to be done. Change the oil every 10,000 (Rotella). 

Its getting slower, no doubt. Always has averaged 20 mpg on the highway. It has 2 glow plugs out so a cold start can be a little hard. Everything still works on it. 

I'd definitely recommend a 7.3. Even if you have to travel to get one its worth it. Just my 2 cents.


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## Eicherbilt (Jan 31, 2011)

Had 03' f350 dually xlt 6.0, 09' f350 dually lariat 6.4 and current truck is 10' f350 dually lariat 6.4

all trucks had/have banks six gun tuner, banks exhaust and kn cold air. every truck ran exceptionally well.

the only issue I have had is the amount of fuel the trucks drink, especially when I turn the power level to 6 on the tuner.


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## Ashcon (Apr 28, 2009)

If your looking for under $20,000 your are probably looking '06 or older. I 

don't know much about them other than '04's seem to have injector 

problems. I bought an '08 F 350 SD dually last year in April and have put 

25,000 kms on it with no real problems. Had an issue with the clutch fan 

and which was causing it to rev really high in low speed. Hard on the fuel 

milage. Dealer changed the clutch fan and flashed the computer under 

warranty no issues since. Except that diesel prices keep going up.

Good luck and congrats on being in a position to add to your fleet.:thumbsup:

Chad


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## alboston (Feb 22, 2007)

Just get a Duramax. You wont lose your hearing. Cannot believe how shocked people are when they realize my truck is a diesel. So quiet.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

My cousin has an '05 Duramax (stock) and it's louder than my '06 Powerstroke.


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## Joasis (Mar 28, 2006)

I traded my '03 3500 Duramax for an "07 Ford 250 Crew Cab XLT, 6.0, and the mileage is worse, power is very noticeably less, and it is noisy. You guys know from my pictures that I work a truck, not just have a work truck, and I wish I had left this Ford where I found it. It will not pull the same load as the Chevy......and if I have to spend money on a custom tune and then sweat blowing the engine just to get it to perform like the Chevy, what exactly have I accomplished? 

I wanted another Duramax, but I knew the "08's would be a problem, as all the diesels are getting to be with the emissions, and I simply could not find a Chevy like I wanted with under 125k....so I traded the Chevy with 255k in on the Ford that had 71k.....swapped for 13k difference. 


I will say I love the way the Ford handles.....I like the seating...it is comfortable on a long drive...and it rides nice, but so did my Chevy.......


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## Wolfgang (Nov 16, 2008)

Mike, I have an 06 F250 CrewCab Diesel 4wd, with a little over 60k on it. Never had a problem. Towed some good size trailers, plus my Bobcat with the attachments loaded on a trailer. I bought it used year before last and the dealership had gone through everything and documented all the up-dates. I know the service mgr and he will call on occasion whenever he see's reoccuring problems in others and just has me stop in to have mine checked. I paid about $22K for mine at the time which was a good fair price - they had it listed at $27K. I just remembered - it did need a set of tires, which came to about a grand for the Revo2's with Road Hazard warranty.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

I have an 06. 6.0 mike, crewcab, no engine issues. 70k miles 
i change the oil every 6-7k with Mobil one synthetic. 

Diesels are an investment, you pay more up front but you get more when you sell it. fuel is more, but it gets better mileage than a gas. sometimes twice the mileage depending on the gas engine. 

I hope mine stays good for a while because I don't want to deal with it outside of the warranty. I feel by 06 07, the 6.0's were strong and very few had problems. it's the 03 and 04's that had the most issues.

if you can find a 7.3 liter, that will be less problems but the truck itself might need more work, more parts might be starting to be worn out by then since it'll be at least 7 or 8 years old and most likely have high mileage.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

We have 2 Fords now, so if I'm getting a 3rd truck I want to keep them the same brand, just makes things easier to deal with.

Looks like I might have to stay 2003 or older to keep it a 7.3.

Maybe something like this http://www.automotive.com/2000/65/ford/f-250/super-duty/colorado/boulder/31711270/585/index.html


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

That truck will most likely need front end work. Ball joints for sure. Check steering linkage. Make sure the hubs engage properly. 

If you (or anyone with a Superduty) needs ball joints or steering linkage, buy after market Moog parts. They have grease fittings and will last mucho longer.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

I think that truck is mis-labelled, it looks like 4x2 not 4x4


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Oh, it does say RWD. I just assumed because you said you wanted a 4x4, it was. It would still need the b/joints and linkage checked.


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

Mike Finley said:


> We have 2 Fords now, so if I'm getting a 3rd truck I want to keep them the same brand, just makes things easier to deal with.
> 
> Looks like I might have to stay 2003 or older to keep it a 7.3.


Unfortunately this is true. Mid 03 the 6.0 came on line. If you look really hard, you can still find some nice ones out there, but mostly high miles.

In my opinion the Ford is the best buy, but the Chevy out performs the stock Fords straight up. Sense I am already paying for a GM with my taxes, I will be damned if I will spend good money after bad to drive one as well.


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## room2roof (Feb 1, 2011)

I am looking at a few different 7.3's right now and seen a few nice ones. Just today my local ford dealer had one with 287k on the odometer....it ran great and had all the suspension components updated as well as many other parts they were asking 13,000 but would take 10,000 cash,,,seemed a bit steep but i do know folks with over 500k on the odometer and still going strong....


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## jmacd (Jul 14, 2009)

I just put ball joints top and bottom in my 06' F350 6.0 with 60,000 miles on it. Change the oil every 5,000 miles like the others. 
Was not easy or fun but it is done. 
Other than my ABS light staying on, the truck has been good so far.
The ABS light could be a recall, I think I read that somewhere. 
Plan on taking it to the dealer once plowing snow stops. 

I would buy another one.


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## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

Are you going after a Ford for the solid front axle? If not then a Duramax may be what your looking for, i myself prefer the 06-07 classic as it is the toughest engine and is the last year with no emissions crap. if you after a solid front axle and cannot find a decent Ford then look into the Dodge Cummins. The Ford and Dodge both have D-60's in the front and the Dodge has always been coil springs for a better ride. The Dodge also has the same rear axle as the Duramax. The Cummins is tough as nails and you can still get the 6spd manual if you chose. Again the 06 Cummins is probably the best year to get as it is fairly quiet and does not have the emissions crap yet. I know guys with Dodges that get up to 25mpg with the stick tranny.


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## room2roof (Feb 1, 2011)

thanks for the info brother, i had always been turned off to Dodge since they have been known to have Tranny issues often. I know the cummins diesel is a Beast!


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## DeVoll Erosion (Oct 28, 2010)

I have a '02 F350 7.3 and a '05 F550 6.0 and '06 F250 6.0. 7.3 Has been a great truck and is bullet proof. The 6.0's have both been to the shop for the basic egr etc under warranty. Since then i have had no problems. I have done some research and found the same info as these guys have said, 6.0 is a great engine after a couple things are done. I change these truck oil every 5k with rotela:thumbsup:, and use all OEM maintenance part. I know where you can get a '05 F550 with around 80k on it for under $20k :whistling:whistling I need to downsize to a F350, down need that much truck anymore.

Here is a good website for Powerstroke
http://powerstrokehelp.com/

Oh and you guys can keep you GM crap....I used to work on them and they had the same problems over and over and would never fix them. They are the Bobcat of trucks :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

room2roof said:


> thanks for the info brother, i had always been turned off to Dodge since they have been known to have Tranny issues often. I know the cummins diesel is a Beast!


The trannies are not the strongest by any means in stock form but if are willing to sink $5k or so in the tranny they can be built bullet proof. The Dodge tranny is actually preferred to some who drag race a lot. If you do some reading in dieselpower magazine you will sometimes see a Dodge tranny behind a Duramax because it is lighter and fewer gears to row through on the track.

Even the manual trannies have issues with higher miles. I read on Pirate 4X4 where a fella in Syracuse, NY put a 18 speed road ranger in his Dodge after going through his second rebuild. He said the 18spd was cheaper to by already rebuilt that to have his 5spd rebuilt again. He stated everything bolted up except the starter because of clearance with the exhaust manifold, a high torque starter solved that. Other than that he installed a compressor and locked out the low range and has ran it since with no issues. So, being a Cummins engine apparently there are other tranny options out there.:thumbsup:


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## kyle_dmr (Mar 17, 2009)

jmacd said:


> Other than my ABS lite staying on the truck has been good so far.
> The ABS lite could be a recall, I think I read that.


When you start the truck, watch the ABS light. Does it flash? If so, read the code it is flashing. Might point you in the right way.


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Mike, I've got an 03 F350 dually 7.3L. 

150,000 miles on it, and it runs great. I did have to put a new alternator in last summer, and average maintenance. I used the 4x4 alot in the winter so I put new bearings and manual locking hubs in the front end. 

Replaced the cam sensor that Angus had said was a problem with some. Its a $20 part and takes 5 minutes to change. Very easy to do.

Never chipped it out, but put a stage II intake on it and 4" exhaust from the turbo back. Keeping it at 67 mph I get about 16 on the highway, and about 12 in the city.

I've never heard anything bad about the 7.3 except the late models from 2001 I believe, and later, they used forged rods. Which are weaker, so if you plan on chipping it out and racing you'll want to stay with 2000 or earlier. (years may be off a bit) But I dont imagine you'll be doing that.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

6stringmason said:


> so if you plan on chipping it out and racing you'll want to stay with 2000 or earlier. (years may be off a bit) But I dont imagine you'll be doing that.


I got a chuckle out of that. 

Naw, I don't think I'll be racing it.:laughing:

Thanks for the other info


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## T&S contracting (Nov 9, 2009)

ive got a 02 f-250 with a 7.3 with 205,000 miles on it with no problems at all and ive been running an extreme tune for the last 50,000 miles on it the only problem the 7.3s have is the cam sensor but i just keep an extra one on the dash if it goes out it takes litterally 2 min to swap not even long enough to get your back dirty yeah 7.3s are a little on the loud side but a diesel is suppose to be to me anyway i had 2 buddies with 07 classic cheverolet and they have both been a piece of **** they both drive fords now but both 6.0s and they have never had a problem with them they are pretty relaible if you stud them and delete the egr they run there trucks just has hard as i do ive been told by to ford diesel mechianic that the 6.0 and 7.3 have to be run hard for them to run right


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## cdkyle (Jul 12, 2009)

DON'T DO IT.

GO DODGE CUMMINS.

I HAVE BOTH.

FORD POWERSTROKE and DODGE CUMMINS.

TRUST ME, GO DODGE CUMMINS.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Hundreds of thousands of powerstrokes out there.

I don't trust you.


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## T&S contracting (Nov 9, 2009)

cdkyle said:


> DON'T DO IT.
> 
> GO DODGE CUMMINS.
> 
> ...


good motor ****ty body it sqeauks like crazy dash falls apart tranny want stay together


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## AmeliaP (Apr 22, 2007)

We have a '97 - ish F350 Diesel - We bought it used and it had some good maintenance records. The only problem we've had is a stalling issue that appears to run through a lot of year model. It is a $30 sensor that craps out. It's annoying but an easy fix. We've replaced it twice in less than a year.


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## T&S contracting (Nov 9, 2009)

AmeliaP said:


> We have a '97 - ish F350 Diesel - We bought it used and it had some good maintenance records. The only problem we've had is a stalling issue that appears to run through a lot of year model. It is a $30 sensor that craps out. It's annoying but an easy fix. We've replaced it twice in less than a year.


 go to an international place and get a sensor from them they are alot better ive got a parts number transfer some where from ford to international ill see if i can find it for you international usually has parts cheaper than a dealership does


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## AmeliaP (Apr 22, 2007)

> go to an international place and get a sensor from them they are alot better ive got a parts number transfer some where from ford to international ill see if i can find it for you international usually has parts cheaper than a dealership does


I read that in one of the Ford Forums. If you happen upon the part # I'd appreciate it! :thumbup:


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## T&S contracting (Nov 9, 2009)

# 1876736C91 thats the international part number for the cps im still look for my whole reference sheet for you i got it somewhere on one of these jump drives of mine lol but the best ford forum for powerstrokes is powerstroke.org


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## EZ Land (Feb 5, 2011)

I have a question regarding Chips:

I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4x4. 260K miles. I haul 10K lbs+ on a regular basis. The truck doesn't have as much power as I'd like it to have. I'm considering putting a tuner/chip in it to improve towing performance, but I'd also like some better fuel economy (who doesn't?) as well... I was told by a local shop that Bully Dog may be the way to go. I've also been told by a diesel engine shop that the Superchip is tops in their opinion. 

Anyone here have any feedback, negative or positive, on what has worked for you. I want to get some "realworld" feedback from some folks who aren't selling the darn things....

Thanks,
Scott


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I would suggest an aftermarket exhaust and some gauges before the chip. You really need a pyrometer before chipping. With the 7.3, a better intake kit will also help.

Don't assume you will get better mileage. Technically, you should be but don't bet on it. If you're looking for more power, great. But don't forget, more power takes more fuel.


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## EZ Land (Feb 5, 2011)

angus242 said:


> I would suggest an aftermarket exhaust and some gauges before the chip. You really need a pyrometer before chipping. With the 7.3, a better intake kit will also help.
> 
> Don't assume you will get better mileage. Technically, you should be but don't bet on it. If you're looking for more power, great. But don't forget, more power takes more fuel.


Thank you. I hope for better fuel economy when I'm not towing.. I know that more more power = less fuel economy. Thanks for the info regarding the exhaust and pyrometer. I'll definitely look into it. I appreciate the feedback.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

I'm going out to look at a few trucks tomorrow. Too many nice ones appear to be 6.0s. I have a feeling I'm going to end up with one of those. With these many to choose from I'm bringing my check book so this is probably going to go pretty fast.

Here is some of the choices, what ya think?

http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Mike Finley said:


> http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


That gets my vote. Of course, I'm judging simply by year and mileage. 

Make sure to get an Oasis reports for each and run, don't walk away from any that have had any over heating issues.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Ended up with this one.

http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/d...ultCar=null&max_price=&make=FORD&cardist=7005


Turns out to be a really clean truck. Was a big corporation company truck. The oasis report showed pretty clean, just a minor issue at 60,000 miles. Spent some dough having a separate Ford service dept go through it pretty heavily, came out with a clean report, with the tech saying was one of the better vehicles he ever seen and he'd buy it himself with no reservations at all. 

It's at the dealership now having every fluid and filter changed, should be picking it up Tuesday.

Thanks for all the help.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Mike, it looks real nice. I like the back up sensors and adjustable pedals. 

Hope it works out for ya! Watch the front ball joints. Change the oil religiously!

:thumbsup:


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## jmacd (Jul 14, 2009)

Congrats on the new truck looks very nice. The owner before you took care of the truck. 

Like Angus says check ball joints. I just did mine with 60,000 miles on a 2006. My truck was used for plowing snow, so that takes it's toll on ball joints.

Perfect color.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Hey, I'm reading through the manual, and there is a lot of stuff in there about water in the fuel and the HFCL or something they call it, and about bleeding it.

Is this just something to know about in case you need to do it some time or is it something you are actually doing every once in awhile ?


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## kyle_dmr (Mar 17, 2009)

Mike,
in the 60k i've put on the truck I have never water in fuel issues. I run fuel additive every other tank as well though which may or may not help the problem depending who you talk to.


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## vwovw (Mar 9, 2007)

v10 with 150000 and i've spent $200 on engine and tranny maintenance. besides oil and filter. i plow and pull trailers. had her for 11 years.


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## vwovw (Mar 9, 2007)




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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

vwovw said:


> v10 with 150000 and i've spent $200 on engine and tranny maintenance. besides oil and filter. i plow and pull trailers. had her for 11 years.


He wasn't asking about the V10.

Mike, I'm the same as Kyle. I add cetane booster on every fill up. Never had water in the fuel.


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## vwovw (Mar 9, 2007)

ya i know. power strokes suck $$$:thumbsup:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

vwovw said:


> ya i know. power strokes suck $$$:thumbsup:


Wow, informative and didactic comment.


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

vwovw said:


> ya i know. power strokes suck $$$:thumbsup:


Your giving us other iowans a bad name.

Mike if your water in fuel light comes on it takes 2 seconds with an allen wrench to drain the water out. Like others have said ctane booster helps a lot. Have been useing it every tank.


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## vwovw (Mar 9, 2007)

Cole82 said:


> Your giving us other iowans a bad name.
> 
> Mike if your water in fuel light comes on it takes 2 seconds with an allen wrench to drain the water out. Like others have said ctane booster helps a lot. Have been useing it every tank.


what? really? why is that? i wouldn't worry about it buddy you'll be alright. all i said was that powerstrokes have issues. most of there engines require lots of cash to repair. a v10 rocks is all I'm saying. Its a open forum buddy


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Did you know in 2006, the 6.0 diesel motor was the LEAST warrantied of any Ford F-Series trucks (and E-Series too)? :whistling


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

vwovw said:


> what? really? why is that? i wouldn't worry about it buddy you'll be alright. all i said was that powerstrokes have issues. most of there engines require lots of cash to repair. a v10 rocks is all I'm saying. Its a open forum buddy


 Just busting your balls,:thumbsup: No harm intended.

Cole


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## vwovw (Mar 9, 2007)

:w00t::thumbsup:


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## Work&Play (Aug 19, 2009)

I love my powerstroke.

If you want to find out some great info on your new truck here are some good links.
Ford truck Enthusiasts .com
Powerstroke .org
Powerstroke Nation.


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## Bad Boy Biker (Dec 12, 2009)

Need to replace our one ton dump. Thinking, f450, 4x4, 7.3 diesel, late 90's to '03.

Suggestions or ideas?


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## macc4644 (Feb 10, 2011)

*Power Slope*

I have a new Powerchoke 4x4 172" CC WB F350 Diesel
It's a great truck. But Diesel is today $3.75 
That said, it gets great mileage and so I think I'm ahead of the game. Did the math and the gas engine isn't frugal and Ford was giving $9K off and the Diesel was free- if you like to live in denial :clap:


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## user38755 (Jan 1, 2009)

:thumbsup:

Love the new grill and the color!


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

macc4644 said:


> I have a new Powerchoke 4x4 172" CC WB F350 Diesel
> It's a great truck. But Diesel is today $3.75
> That said, it gets great mileage and so I think I'm ahead of the game. Did the math and the gas engine isn't frugal and Ford was giving $9K off and the Diesel was free- if you like to live in denial :clap:


Looks like a real nice truck Macc. 

Is the 172" WB long or short bed? Good to hear they are willing to deal on the new ones.......not that I'll be making a purchase anytime soon. :sad:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I think 156" is the short bed.


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## macc4644 (Feb 10, 2011)

Thxs Metalbender!!!!!!!
Tgeb,
Thxs!
The 172" is the long bed model- With the Crew Cab it's longgggggggg, but the LB comes in real handy.


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