# cutting brick ledge



## tjetson (Jul 28, 2010)

have about 130 feet of brick ledge to cut. The cut depth is around 11 7/8th can anyone make a suggestion on a saw to use? is hydraulic my only option or is there something similar to the hilt dch 300 with a deeper cut ability. 

my other option is using a walkie but id have to build platforms along the foundation which is not going to be cost effective.

thanks for any advice


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

I think I would find a way to bring the grade up, no matter what you do, its going to look ugly so maybe the best option is to leave it and bring up grade. 

Looks like the brick ledge block went in one course too late. Hate it when that happens.

What's a walkie?


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

dakzaag said:


> I think I would find a way to bring the grade up, no matter what you do, its going to look ugly so maybe the best option is to leave it and bring up grade.
> 
> Looks like the brick ledge block went in one course too late. Hate it when that happens.
> 
> What's a walkie?


I believe he means walk behind.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

So you need to saw it off AND make it look nice? Is the the foundation going to be stuccoed after?


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

A Partner K960 Chainsaw will cut that, but 130 feet would probably go through 2 maybe 3 chains.


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

Maybe he is talking about a control joint machine they use on driveways and big pads that you walk behind. 

He would need more surface area to run the machine than what appears to be a 10 or 12" top. 

I really can't figure out what the purpose is, if they decided not to go with brick, leave the ledge and cover it with ground cover. If the wall is a lot taller than the one pic shows, and they have changed their mind about brick then appearance isn't critical. Cut it as deep as you have equipment on hand with and clean it up with a grinder or chisel. 

It blows when you don't have a plan that is solid. Not too many machines out there with capabilities of 12" cut through solid concrete.


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## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

Don't you love ICF stuff???

There is a break in the concrete every 8" since the foam has to tie back to the main block so in reality you are dealing with concrete in 6 1/2" increments and it is under 7" in depth. The unfortunate part is there is also either #3 or #4 rebar in each of those pockets but should be within 1/2" of the top.

Use your quick cut saw and cut as deep as you can as straight as you can. Then go back with a hand held jackhammer (I have a Hilti TS74) with a wide blade (3") and knock off everything.

Most of it should break fairly clean except the bottom, use a smaller chipping bit to clean it up. This is not a really fast job, I would say 2 guys the whole day.

After the facade is finished use DuRock B2000 and fiberglass mesh to parge everything exposed to clean it all up and no one will ever know what you did.

That Brick Ledge is about 4 1/2" wide, I would make my cut around 4 3/4".


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

That brick ledge does seem high to the existing grade. Based on the picture you have to wonder why no one questioned it. Also why are there no anchor bolts?


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## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

Now that I can see it in full size and not on my I-Phone, where you indicated to cut with the black line in your picture is not necessary to go that deep, all you need to do is cut it at minimum flush with the EPS exterior face


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

I would highly recommend trying to rent one of these rather than the chainsaw or chipping it away:


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## tjetson (Jul 28, 2010)

It needs to be cut off because its at the wrong course. The cut will eventually be behind a scratch coat with cultured stone on top of that. 

my original plan was exactly like Chris Johnson suggested. I can get a 5" deep cut using a hilti dch 3000 and then im gonna try to chip off the rest with a wide blade on the chipping hammer.

I cannot back fill until the ledge is cut off because i dont want to compromise the foundation further without the joists being in. 

I will post pictures up after its cut


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## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

So the cut doesn't need to look pretty, just make sure your at or below the face of a standard block. 

Are you needing to install a new brick ledge lower?


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## tjetson (Jul 28, 2010)

Chris Johnson said:


> So the cut doesn't need to look pretty, just make sure your at or below the face of a standard block.
> 
> Are you needing to install a new brick ledge lower?


they are going with a cultured stone now with no brick ledge


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

If their that flexible, just add 9" to the floor plan..:laughing:


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## tjetson (Jul 28, 2010)

TimelessQuality said:


> If their that flexible, just add 9" to the floor plan..:laughing:


there was no suitable detail the engineers could draw that would keep a proper drainage plane having that big lip packed with spray foam


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

jomama said:


> I would highly recommend trying to rent one of these rather than the chainsaw or chipping it away:
> 
> View attachment 52047


What the hell is that thing?


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## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

CJKarl said:


> What the hell is that thing?


That my friend is a ring saw...watch your toes


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## tjetson (Jul 28, 2010)

Chris Johnson said:


> That my friend is a ring saw...watch your toes












is what Im on the hunt to rent worst comes to worst I will purchase it and then ebay it.

I hope my Festool ct26 vacuum can handle extraction for it.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

tjetson said:


> is what Im on the hunt to rent worst comes to worst I will purchase it and then ebay it.
> 
> I hope my Festool ct26 vacuum can handle extraction for it.


We rented one similar and it came with a self cleaning hilti vac. Worked great as far as dust was concerned. If your outside why worry about vac? Just use a wet gas saw.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

Chris Johnson said:


> That my friend is a ring saw...watch your toes



Actually, it's not a ring saw, this is:











CJKarl said:


> What the hell is that thing?


It's what Partner calls a "cut-n-break" saw. It has two 9" blades with a gap between them. You can cut 2-3" at a time, chop it out quick, and keep cutting. It goes up to a total depth of cut of about 16", where a ring saw only does about 10" in a saw that size. Believe it or not, our local hardware store/rental store has one and it only rents for something like $65 a day......... :thumbsup:


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

TimelessQuality said:


> If their that flexible, just add 9" to the floor plan..:laughing:





tjetson said:


> there was no suitable detail the engineers could draw that would keep a proper drainage plane having that big lip packed with spray foam


:no::001_huh:


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

jomama said:


> I would highly recommend trying to rent one of these rather than the chainsaw or chipping it away:
> 
> View attachment 52047


Whoah.....that thing looks like the TRex of Concrete cutoff saws. What advantage does it provide over a regular 14" cut off saw. Blade doesn't look any bigger.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

jomama said:


> I would highly recommend trying to rent one of these rather than the chainsaw or chipping it away:
> 
> View attachment 52047


Have you used that saw before? I was looking to buy one.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

lukachuki said:


> Whoah.....that thing looks like the TRex of Concrete cutoff saws. What advantage does it provide over a regular 14" cut off saw. Blade doesn't look any bigger.


It's only two 9" bades next to each other, but you break out the "kerf" as you go, and it will saw as deep as about 16", where a 14" saw is only good to about 5". The other advantage is that you can cut corners square w/o over-cutting.




Nac said:


> Have you used that saw before? I was looking to buy one.


I actually haven't yet. I figured I would have by now, seeing as I have an ICS chainsaw that usually burns up once a year, but it either was rebuilt decent this time, or I'm not using it enough.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

jomama said:


> It's only two 9" bades next to each other, but you break out the "kerf" as you go, and it will saw *as deep as about 16", where a 14" saw is only good to about 5"*.


Whut? :blink:


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> Whut? :blink:


Not sure what you don't quite understand, but a typical 14" cut-off saw only cuts about 5" deep. The saw I posted is anything but a typical cut-off saw, and is designed to saw up to 16". If you care to elaborate to the confusion, I'll gladly explain further...........


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## 2low4nh (Dec 12, 2010)

the cut and break saw only cuts 3" deep at a time but as you chip away the chunks you can keep cutting deeper. it will penetrate the wall up to 16" deep with the depth of the front of the saw. it will bottom out on the motor end at 16"


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## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

Nac said:


> Have you used that saw before? I was looking to buy one.


I have, I rented it. Cutting in a garage door in 12" concrete wall.
Works great, waaay better than the ring saw. :thumbup:
And it was cheaper.

As said, no over cuts or chipping out the corners.
Nice clean plunge cuts.

I will never wrestle with the hydraulic ring saw again. :no:

If I used it more I would certainly buy one.

D.


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