# crooked backsplash tile



## fourcornerhome (Feb 19, 2008)

I was putting up glass tile on a wall and was having trouble keeping it straight. These were 2"x4" tiles on 12"x12" sheets.
The back splash over the counter went well but the tall wall behind the range gave me problems. I did notice that some of the tiles were not straight on the sheets. Also, my mortar was a little loose and some were sagging.
After the wall was all set, I couldn't push the crooked tiles straight. They could move but because they were attached to the matt, it would cause other tiles to go out of alignment. I ended up with spacers everywhere but couldn't get it perfect. 
Should I have cut the mis-aligned tiles off the sheets first before setting? What do you guys do to prevent this?


----------



## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

I cut them out before I set them, when I can. If I miss them before I set them I try to work it out.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

fourcornerhome said:


> I was putting up glass tile on a wall and was having trouble keeping it straight. These were 2"x4" tiles on 12"x12" sheets.
> The back splash over the counter went well but the tall wall behind the range gave me problems. I did notice that some of the tiles were not straight on the sheets. Also, my mortar was a little loose and some were sagging.
> After the wall was all set, I couldn't push the crooked tiles straight. They could move but because they were attached to the matt, it would cause other tiles to go out of alignment. I ended up with spacers everywhere but couldn't get it perfect.
> Should I have cut the mis-aligned tiles off the sheets first before setting? What do you guys do to prevent this?


you wont ever get them sheets perfect. at best you can cut the mesh and try to line them up but even then you will miss a few.


----------



## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Lots and lots of spacers. Use the wedge spacers to dial them in. Just takes a lot of time.


----------



## Chopsaw Chick (May 6, 2011)

I used to work with a guy who took those tile sheets, removed all the individual tiles and then installed them separately, with spacers. He insisted that the glue that holds the tiles to the mesh is weak and that the factory spacing sucks. I think he has a really good point. (Although I usually don't have the time or patience for his method!)


----------



## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

For 2x4 tiles I just remove them from the mesh, cut long 1/8" pcs of pine or however wide the grout joint is and put them up. just slide the spacer right/left a little so it can be removed when tiles are just setting up. Much faster than individual spacers.

To remove mesh quick soak sheets in water, most of the time mesh or paper comes right off.


----------



## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

if the glass is back coat colored, Pam Tite is your friend. Cut them apart set them with pam tite hold it in place for a count of 15 and go to the next one.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I set them and as needed cut the sheet to adjust.


----------



## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I like using a finish trowel to assist inside the joints, the blade is thin, has a handle offset and away from view, if they sag a finish nail helps, have to kind of see if it fits decor if it has to be perfect or is not visually detractive.


----------



## river rider (Dec 31, 2012)

Cut any obviously really bad tiles off the mat before, or immediately as you place them & set (or re-set) those individually so you aren't fighting the mat. Spacers as needed. Shim type spacers are very helpful in areas that have to slightly "blend" small grout line inconsistencies. Sometimes, unfortunately, extensive shimming & adjustment is just mandatory. 

If you can jump to other walls or time it so it is the end of the day, sometimes it can be very helpful to let certain rows set up before laying above it so you have a solid anchor to shim & push on with out shifting everything below it. I often do this on inlay bands & extremely heavy tile. The catch 22 is you can no longer adjust the set up areas to compensate or blend those tiles. So check it well before you leave it to set.

I have used a dremel to smooth out a couple small sags i missed on some tiny glass & mixed stone accent bands after it had set up. Very minor only, but I did not want to just live with it. Worked good. BE CAREFUL! Easy to make it way worse. Low speed. Tiny, tiny bites at a time. I used more of an edge sand/grind approach as opposed to cut approach. Don't need to remove the full tile thickness, just needs to be groutable. Brace your tool hand with your other hand & patiently work it in the minute scale. Arms/hands resting on the wall surface for stabilization. If it grabs & pulls you'll have a nasty scar (the finish, not your finger). If it's rectified or rounded, sheen, material type, etc, etc can all matter of course. Gotta use good judgment. It can be a very good minor detail touch up-blending method, it's not a fix the wall solution.

Tile is pretty much literally a set in stone situation. This is always in the front of my mind before walking away, whether I am tired, or late, or whatever. Just have to spend the time & attention up front.


----------



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Having done a couple of these glass mosaic mats now I can tell you it seems common. It takes tons more time to set these vs. A subway tile pattern or something similar. I have cut mats, used spacers, etc.


----------



## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2014)

They seam to all be inferior as far as mosaics go, Wedges, Laser Levels and Masking tape are your friends!


----------



## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

charimon said:


> if the glass is back coat colored, Pam Tite is your friend. Cut them apart set them with pam tite hold it in place for a count of 15 and go to the next one.


I just checked Amazon for Pam Tite. I never heard of it.

Are those prices right?
$100.00 - $200.00 for the gun only
Various prices for glue sticks


----------



## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

You haven't heard of Pam tite? You must not have been to any flooring conventions, the company thinks it's the greatest thing since sliced hardwood with a magnum shear.


----------



## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

MIKE ANTONETTI said:


> You haven't heard of Pam tite? You must not have been to any flooring conventions, the company thinks it's the greatest thing since sliced hardwood with a magnum shear.


No to both: I haven't heard of it nor have I been to flooring conventions. I'm all ears though.
I've used hot glue before, but not that.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

jb4211 said:


> I just checked Amazon for Pam Tite. I never heard of it.
> 
> Are those prices right?
> $100.00 - $200.00 for the gun only
> Various prices for glue sticks


The HB220 gun is 100 bucks, PamTite is the type of adhesive.


----------



## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> The HB220 gun is 100 bucks, PamTite is the type of adhesive.


So, when/how is this used with setting tile?


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

jb4211 said:


> So, when/how is this used with setting tile?


Backsplashes, decorative walls, set your tiles with glue instead of thinset, ready for grout right away.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

In my experience, mosaic mats are a "you get what you pay for" situation to a decent extent.

The better quality ones have many less misalignments to deal with.

I set with a grout float and use it to "stretch" sheets that are out of square or have slight waves in them.

Wedge spacers.

And....I keep a sharp blade on my knife. (sometimes I have to not only make a release cut in the backer, I have to then cut away the "hairs" that are left over so that they don't act as a de facto spacer)
This can become a real PITA when attempting it on a shower floor over a membrane....


(P.S. I would rather shoot myself in the face than pull every tile from their mats before an install:blink: (even 2x2's or bigger))


----------



## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> Backsplashes, decorative walls, set your tiles with glue instead of thinset, ready for grout right away.


Wow. I never heard of that. I feel like I live in a cave at times. Sounds like a "too good to be true" kinda thing. The glue is strong enough to hold the tiles to stand the test of time?

I know that area isn't subject to the abuse of floors and even standard walls, but I'm just curious.


----------

