# Drywall On Top of Plaster Boards



## UCG (Oct 22, 2010)

Hello everebody, I got a question for you guys.

I got a customer who wants me to install drywall on top of his plasterboards (it is a old house), he doesn't want to remove the plaster to install drywall because of price. 

According to you is it ok to nail furring wood stripps (1"x2"x8') to studs and joists behind plasterboards? That's the only way I found to do it without dropping to much the ceiling (it is only 8' AFF).

I appreciate your comments.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

If the surfaces are flat (big if), I wouldn't even bother with furring strips. Just fasten directly to the framing. Either way, don't forget to figure in extensions on all of the electrical boxes, and fussy trim details.


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## UCG (Oct 22, 2010)

Ok, I'll do wood stripp just on ceilings to make the corners look better because it is very wavy already. 

And there is a small patch (2x3) of plaster on one room. Plaster board is ok but had water damage and the brown coat has fallen down. Can I fix it with hot mud or should I do plaster (have to tell you never did plaster before and don't want to try - not my trade).

That is my main concern. Can I do small patches with Durabond? because also there is a 2'x1' hole on the wall where plasterboard is gone, Can I screw a patch of drywall and do the mud or it has to be plastered?


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## Doubleoh7 (Dec 3, 2009)

Here is some info, yes, I am an electrician, so take it for what it is worth. I did a new 200 amp service in a 100 year old farmhouse last week. I was talking to the HO's daughter (HO has alzheimers) She is going to have several rooms gutted and redone. They are plaster over lathe and the plaster is cracking and falling away from the lathe in many places. The drywall guy told her that he won't drywall over plaster because it will continue to separate over the years and cause bulges in the drywall. What she is going to do is demo the plaster herself, leaving the lathe, then he will drywall directly over the old lathe. She will be doing the demo of the old plaster herself due to RRP lead nonsense.


Why was this relevant to me you may ask? I had to know where to set the depth of the new 200 amp panel and she is planning on having me rewire the rooms while they are gutted. Then, I can just cut out the lathe where I need to.


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## Muddauber (Nov 2, 2007)

UCG said:


> Ok, I'll do wood stripp just on ceilings to make the corners look better because it is very wavy already.
> 
> And there is a small patch (2x3) of plaster on one room. Plaster board is ok but had water damage and the brown coat has fallen down. Can I fix it with hot mud or should I do plaster (have to tell you never did plaster before and don't want to try - not my trade).
> 
> That is my main concern. Can I do small patches with Durabond? because also there is a 2'x1' hole on the wall where plasterboard is gone, Can I screw a patch of drywall and do the mud or it has to be plastered?



And how long have you been in the drywall trade???:whistling


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

make sure there are no radiant heat wires in the ceiling.:thumbsup:


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## NaeGan (Sep 8, 2009)

What I do in a case where the plaster is failing is just chip away the lose pieces of plaster and fur just those spots. If you glue the drywall and screw it there shouldn't be bulges in it. If you make sure you don't skimp on the screws it should be fine. Sounds like some chicanery from the drywall guy maybe. The thing I will say about layovers in old houses is there's no saying the studs are on center and a good chance they're not. 

And you don't need to plaster in the holes. Just fur out where the lathe is over the studs where the screws are going to be so you don't cave in the drywall.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Doubleoh7 said:


> Here is some info, yes, I am an electrician, so take it for what it is worth. I did a new 200 amp service in a 100 year old farmhouse last week. I was talking to the HO's daughter (HO has alzheimers) She is going to have several rooms gutted and redone. They are plaster over lathe and the plaster is cracking and falling away from the lathe in many places. The drywall guy told her that he won't drywall over plaster because it will continue to separate over the years and cause bulges in the drywall. What she is going to do is demo the plaster herself, leaving the lathe, then he will drywall directly over the old lathe. She will be doing the demo of the old plaster herself due to RRP lead nonsense.
> 
> 
> Why was this relevant to me you may ask? I had to know where to set the depth of the new 200 amp panel and she is planning on having me rewire the rooms while they are gutted. Then, I can just cut out the lathe where I need to.


The last couple of guts I did the same thing. Not so much for the reason the drywall guy stated, although I don't disagree, but the plaster is _generally _around 1/2" and the trim and elec. meet up to the new rock just the same....... mostly.


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## Doubleoh7 (Dec 3, 2009)

NaeGan said:


> What I do in a case where the plaster is failing is just chip away the lose pieces of plaster and fur just those spots. If you glue the drywall and screw it there shouldn't be bulges in it. If you make sure you don't skimp on the screws it should be fine. Sounds like some chicanery from the drywall guy maybe. The thing I will say about layovers in old houses is there's no saying the studs are on center and a good chance they're not.
> 
> And you don't need to plaster in the holes. Just fur out where the lathe is over the studs where the screws are going to be so you don't cave in the drywall.


 
If it was my home, I think I'd go the demo route. It is just the way I like to do things. Another issue in the situation I brought up is that there is this really nasy old insulation blown into the walls, it looks like wood chips. She has been advised that she can get a better R value with a modern blow in insulation. The house is balloon framed. On top of that, I can give the HO a better price on rewiring the rooms. It will be a piece of cake with exposed lathe that I can sawzall wherever I need to. The HO (daughter) will do the demo and disposal, no real cost to her, just sweat equity.


Please note that the above paragraph is oozing with the opinions of a lowly electrician!


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Doubleoh7 said:


> If it was my home, I think I'd go the demo route. It is just the way I like to do things. Another issue in the situation I brought up is that there is this really nasy old insulation blown into the walls, it looks like wood chips. She has been advised that she can get a better R value with a modern blow in insulation. The house is balloon framed. On top of that, I can give the HO a better price on rewiring the rooms. It will be a piece of cake with exposed lathe that I can sawzall wherever I need to. The HO (daughter) will do the demo and disposal, no real cost to her, just sweat equity.
> 
> 
> Please note that the above paragraph is oozing with the opinions of a lowly electrician!


Daughter doesn't have to follow the RRP either. 

That's some real mule work. Hope she knows what shes getting into.


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## Doubleoh7 (Dec 3, 2009)

paulie said:


> Daughter doesn't have to follow the RRP either.
> 
> That's some real mule work. Hope she knows what shes getting into.


 
It won't be too bad for her. It just seperates and crumbles when hit with a hammer. She'll just have a big mess to clean up.


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## UCG (Oct 22, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> And how long have you been in the drywall trade???:whistling


:laughing: I am in the trade for about 6 years, and on my own 2 years. Things is only worked in new constructions,but you just can't be too selective anymore with this economy. Plaster? Never worked and really I'm not interested, I respect plasterers just just don't want to go into. That's why I don't now if I can use hot mud over plasterboards, even if it is 6 SF don't want to take any risk of doing a bad job.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Doubleoh7 said:


> It won't be too bad for her. It just seperates and crumbles when hit with a hammer. She'll just have a big mess to clean up.


That's pretty awesome. Just crumbles when you hit it with a hammer. Yep that about sums it up. Not to worry tho, the ho will put on some old jeans and wear a paper filter mask some of the time. She'll be fine. For now.


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

UCG said:


> Hello everebody, I got a question for you guys.
> 
> I got a customer who wants me to install drywall on top of his plasterboards (it is a old house), he doesn't want to remove the plaster to install drywall because of price.
> 
> ...


K, now I know guys do it this way but... I have a 1890's plaster building and I recommend not doing it this way. Plaster is *heavy* (try hauling a small walls worth to the dumpster and you will understand *exactly* how heavy) and once it starts separating it just gets worse. And all that screwing you will be doing is going to cause exactly that. On a wall I would have less reservations about skinning over with drywall, but a ceiling I say drop it to lath at least.

Just my 2 cents.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Doubleoh7 said:


> It won't be too bad for her. It just seperates and crumbles when hit with a hammer. She'll just have a big mess to clean up.


Spoken like a true sparky. :laughing:


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## Doubleoh7 (Dec 3, 2009)

Metro M & L said:


> That's pretty awesome. Just crumbles when you hit it with a hammer. Yep that about sums it up. Not to worry tho, the ho will put on some old jeans and wear a paper filter mask some of the time. She'll be fine. For now.


 
I'm just the electrician. What she does is her own business. This gal is quite capable of doing that job. Not all women are helpless pussies.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

done many times with 3/8s or 1/2" drywall . Laminating the walls .


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Doubleoh7 said:


> If it was my home, I think I'd go the demo route. It is just the way I like to do things. Another issue in the situation I brought up is that there is this really nasy old insulation blown into the walls, it looks like wood chips. She has been advised that she can get a better R value with a modern blow in insulation. The house is balloon framed. On top of that, I can give the HO a better price on rewiring the rooms. It will be a piece of cake with exposed lathe that I can sawzall wherever I need to. The HO (daughter) will do the demo and disposal, no real cost to her, just sweat equity.
> 
> 
> Please note that the above paragraph is oozing with the opinions of a lowly electrician!


Who's going to do the new rock? If it's you PM me and I'll tell you a little something I left out that will make your life lots easier and the rockers. :thumbsup:


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