# Quick Connects vs Wire Nuts



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

This pic: a Halo H71CT can (LED going in).

Does it really matter if using the quick connects or the wires are clipped and nutted? 

If I do us them - how far to strip before inserting. And, once they are in, how does a person get them back out if needed?


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

It's *not *a quick-connect. It's a push-in wire splice. The only reason you really need to cut them off and use wire nuts is if you need to splice more wires than they have ports on them for.



There's a strip gauge on the piece itself. Hard to see, but it'll be there.


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## B.Johnson (Sep 17, 2016)

Those things are a huge timesaver. I'm sure when wire nuts came out that there were people who refused to switch to them as well.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Not allowed to use them in Chicago r most of the AHJ's around Chicago. 

Tom


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

They're a timesaver, no doubt about it. So's backstabbing.


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## B.Johnson (Sep 17, 2016)

Tinstaafl said:


> They're a timesaver, no doubt about it. So's backstabbing.


Do you have a point?


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

some are good some are crap.
When I was an apprentice sparky I was told to never use them. 


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

cedarboarder said:


> some are good some are crap.
> When I was an apprentice sparky I was told to never use them.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


When they first came out, they were *all* crappy. I had serious, time-consuming/money-costing issues with them. I didn't use them for years. But they've gotten better now.

I still prefer wire nuts even today, but I will use these on occasion.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

I use the ones in the Halo cans and wafer LEDs but I don't buy loose ones to use as a wire nut. I was taught to use the screws on switches and outlets and still do. My mind tells me that a can light doesn't have internal parts that move or get wear due to use like switches and outlets.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

B.Johnson said:


> Do you have a point?


Sure, right at the top of my little head.

Point is, just like backstabbing, those connectors rely on spring pressure to make the connection. Long term, springs lose force much sooner than a properly torqued threaded connection. 

I prefer my work to last well beyond the taillight warranty.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Tinstaafl said:


> Long term, springs lose force much sooner than a properly torqued threaded connection.
> 
> I prefer my work to last well beyond the taillight warranty.


Something to consider.



480sparky said:


> It's *not *a quick-connect. It's a push-in wire splice.


Cooper's calling them quick-connect; 
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...ng/incandescent/_6_inch_housings/_269408.html


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

artinall said:


> .........Cooper's calling them quick-connect;
> http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...ng/incandescent/_6_inch_housings/_269408.html


I don't own Cooper, so I'm not responsible for their ignorance.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

480sparky said:


> I don't own Cooper, so I'm not responsible for their ignorance.


But they do connect quickly. :whistling :laughing:

I agree with 480, when they first came out they universally sucked.

They're a little better now. I still don't use them, except for where they come already installed, like can lights.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Just replaced a light in the kitchen with them. If I hadn't seen this thread I would have been looking for the white nuts I must have lost.

I like them in this case. Put up light fixture, push wire in and turn it on.

This was a LED strip light. Not sure I would want them on a high wattage ceiling fan or fixture.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Up in the attic I see the newer Halo won't work. This is the old Capri that I pulled. Cheap guy (QL 75ICX). 

I see where I could replace the socket and rewire but the fixture lost its bulb housing mount and falls through onto the light cover. Then there is the interrupt to replace...

Open hole nearest the left is just under 1" away *(edited)*. While inner to inner span is 22 1/2" and I'm not going to block for this. Can barely reach as it is with connections on the far side and with knees extended through truss chords, hurdling a vent pipe, wiring, etc . 

Also, specs that I have found on the Capri have been scant and nowhere has it listed as moisture rated. (where trusses take a change to a right angle)


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Had trouble following that post.

Are you saying the new Halo won't fit right next to the truss chord? (Most wont).

If so, use a remodel can. You can even wire it from below, so no more crawling into the attic. :thumbsup:


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> Had trouble following that post.
> 
> Are you saying the new Halo won't fit right next to the truss chord? (Most wont).
> 
> If so, use a remodel can. You can even wire it from below, so no more crawling into the attic. :thumbsup:


Yeah............ if the original install left a couple feet of extra NM for ya.......... :whistling


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> Are you saying the new Halo won't fit right next to the truss chord? (Most wont).
> 
> If so, use a remodel can. You can even wire it from below, so no more crawling into the attic. :thumbsup:


 Did a Halo remodel can, clipped in easily from below. Was about $18 with the standard can around $10.

Did have to crawl the attic however to detach for some slack on the romex so it could be pulled down through.

Used the stock connectors.


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

retrofit cans I don't mind the quick connects. Not much space in the box and they seem to save room.


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