# drywall pricing



## frank1633 (May 2, 2006)

in north east ohio how much should i charge a square foot for hanging drywall.


----------



## KEITH (Jun 7, 2006)

*Help!!!!*

Trying to find pricing per square foot, I have 3015 sq ft walls at 30 cents a square foot. I have 343 sq foot of sheet rock ceiling and i have 580 sq ft of slabs also known as Ketex celings 65 cent per square. Looking for help pricing. I also have hallways 1356 sq ft of walls and 225 sq ft of celing. Need help pricing job please. Thank You . Help..! :thumbup:


----------



## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

*regarding butt joints*

Try looking into the Butt-Taper(Butt-Taper.com) if you are interested in flat butt joints and don't want to put a recurring cost item in the wall. You will need to put a 4 Inch wide piece of osb or plywood, but I normally find that in the scrap pile. Or rip a bunch out of a sheet for a very low per piece cost.

The Butt-taper is a tool that reforms the edge to make it taper. Although the website says it is a 6 inch seam on a butt instead of a 24, I find mine are closer to one inch. It also works on patches too.

Flat butts are especially good on ceilings and behind cabinets and counters. You can try to hide the bump by feathering, or just remove the bump with this tool. Your choice.

Also uses less mud so it dries faster and you can do your next coat sooner. Works with hot mud as well.

And, for those who care, no I do not have an affiliation with this company. I just like the tool.

Kirk


----------



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

I just subbed 8350 Sq. Ft @ .55 hanged & taped


----------



## DaveH (Jun 2, 2006)

The price for drywall installed in any area is the price that a particular contractor will charge to do YOUR job not some job in your area. You might have a little job that takes several ins and outs or a large production job that a crew can keep moving on for days. Never use an istalled price received on a forum unless someone sends it to you in a formal proposal and willing to do the work themselves. Even then I would be hesitant. For an idea of what others pay around the country or down the street it's just fine, but you have no idea who gave them their pricing and what that same person would give you. 

As far as butt joints go...Man put 'em on a stud. It's only been done that way for 100 years. Yes studs twist...people bump dressers into them...kids playing touch football fall into them, but on a stud is the only way to go. If you know how to measure a job properly for drywall you shouldn't have to worry about saving material and doing rediculous breaks mid span. If you were framing a wall would you put a stud splice in the middle of a wall? Even in a non-loadbearing application? No way! Why? You know it would be structually improper to do so. Have them fall on a stud. If you have a tool such as Kirks for making a taper on the butt end good for you, if not bust 'em out wide...do it right...and reduce your call backs with a proper application. I went to USG's board manufacturing plant in Shoals Indiana a few years ago and asked why they don't taper the butt ends of drywall. The answer? Cost. The board rolls of the presses at a fast rate. While it's still soft they have rollers running down the edges putting the taper on them. The have huge knifes that then cut them to length. After the cut they are stacked, banded, and loaded on trucks. They said they would have to redo the entire production line and take much more time to put the taper on the ends too. They told me it would cost the end consumer 35% more to do this. Nobody wan'ts that now do we....:no:


----------



## Bodrey (Jun 24, 2008)

theworx said:


> The guy I work with has been boarding for 25 years. He carries with him 5" wide pieces of plywood at all times. He never cuts a butt to end up on a stud. He floats them all and uses the plywood as a backer (make sure it's cut long enough to put a few screws in the sheet above or below). Your cuts are always in the corners and have factory edges to tape. Same thing on ceilings. We float all our ceiling joints and use backers to tie it all in. If you're getting paid by the board foot, will save you lots of time, and that's money in your your pocket...


Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you're saying the guy you work with lays his joints between studs as a matter of course instead of on the studs. I prefer that approach myself as the width of a stud leaves little room for error when butting two ends together while still providing a sound backing to fasten to. However, if he still has to mud the joint like a regular butt it seems somewhat counter productive to not create a recess at the same time.


----------

