# What is this spot on the bruce engineered hardwood



## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

I am a deck guy on this website and I recently had engineered hardwood flooring installed on my concrete slab (foyer). I was not happy at all with the install. I have this black looking mark that just appeared on the bruce flooring what is it? Also are the gaps to big from end to end on the boards. I am fighting with the installer to fix my newel post where they butchered it. I offered for him to use my mm but he insisted on this jamb saw that made my smoke alarms go off.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

more pics. any help you guys can give me I would appreciate, I wish I would have just done the install myself but I didn't have the time and no I am regretting it.


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## CookeCarpentry (Feb 26, 2009)

The spot you are talking about, could be just a color variation in grain - depending upon the grade floor you chose (select, natural, utility, etc.).

If not that, it could be that piece was at the end of a carton and it either got wet and stayed that way for a while, or something was spilled on it, etc.

The end to end connection you have pictured - not the greatest, but some of that is the quality (or lack there of) of Bruce flooring. It also looks like a piece of something is stuck in there.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

that is glue that is stuck in there, that spot wasn't there when it was originally installed and we haven't even walked on the material with shoes so it cant be water or anything.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

I figured there were large gaps because there could be a variation in the squareness of how they were laid.


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## CookeCarpentry (Feb 26, 2009)

This was a glue down application?


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

yes, bc it is on concete


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## CookeCarpentry (Feb 26, 2009)

dvatt said:


> yes, bc it is on concete


Could have been floating, I didn't know.

The newel post - I have seen worse. Your best bet now, might be to apply some clear caulk in there just so dust, etc. does not get trapped.

If a lot of the end-to-end connections are filled with spots of glue, I would think that would warrant the installer coming back to clean it (if possible) or removing and re-installing.

How much do you still owe him? That should get him to rectify this asap.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

I went through lowes, its a flooring company in downintown, pa. Lowes is supporting me 100% I am going to have trim put around the newel post. I am concerned with that black mark


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## CookeCarpentry (Feb 26, 2009)

dvatt said:


> *I went through lowes*, its a flooring company in downintown, pa. Lowes is supporting me 100% I am going to have trim put around the newel post. I am concerned with that black mark


If you would have said that up front, this would have been way easier.

Forget it and move on. Lowes is giving you lip service about supporting you 100% - they got paid, the installer got paid, and you got screwed for trying to cut corners.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

they are coming out to fix the trim bc they are currently staining the trim to match the color.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Pic.1.That is a small knot, it is a part of the wood,some grades of wood may contain these,if there is only one,that is odd,should had been not installed.
Pic.2.That is a glue, can be cleaned out with a semi-sharp object,should come easy.For most of the flooring sold in big box stores, you should visit the paint dept for matching color fillers.Low grade flooring products sold.
Pic.5 and 6. That is a bad installation,they cut the post higher than wood floor thickness,boards should be changed to go under the door jam/post.Wonder how can cover the curved piece with shoe moulding.

Like HD, Lowes use a subcontract who hires more subcontractors, they pay peanuts,the installer installs the floor accordingly what is paid for,the customer gets lousy job,ask yourself;would you do a deck for Lowes for 1/4 of the rate you are getting now?


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

I was pressing down on the dark spot and the board seems to flex when I push down. I wonder if the material broke off underneath before install and the glue is showing through


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

the installer was the owner of his company that is the sad part


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## Insuranceclaims (Aug 31, 2009)

Well, first, let me add some salt to the wound:

1) Being in the trade, I can't imagine why you would buy wood flooring from a big box store AND use their installers.

This method is a "get what you pay for." Most people buy flooring at a big box store, so that they can charge it on their Lowe's account.

2) While I can appreciate your asking for help, and expressing your disatisfaction, I can't imagine why you are letting work continue with the staining of the molding.

3) Based on the photos, these issues could be the least of your headaches.

Now, for some questions and recommendations:

1) First, I would stop all work. Notify the installer and Lowe's of all complaints in writing; possibly by certified mail.

2) Considering the legitimate items of concern in your photos, the:

a) dark spots, as others have stated, could be a grain discoloration. If so, the installer should have noticed this eye sore and replaced these pieces. Maybe these peices were used because not enough planks were ordered. 

b) For a serious headache, the dark spots could be due to excesive vapor emission from the slab. This testing is the #1 priority for any type of flooring.

Was the vapor emission checked on the entire slab before the floor was installed? This is a long topic, but all slabs should be checked before any type of flooring is installed. The technical term for an acceptable level of vapor emission from the slab is "not to exceed 3 lbs of vapor pressure in a 1000 sf area within a 24 hour period." Any specs over 4-5 lbs of pressure will cause floor failure. One must always check manufacturing specs.

More so for wood installation are other considerations:

---How old is the slab?
---What are the soil conditions surrounding your home?
---Does water pool around your slab?
---Is your slab lower than the surrounding elevations?
---Does it rain a lot in your area?
---Do you have a gutter system to divert water away from the house or have a french drain installed?
---Was the wood acclimated to your interior atmosphere before installation?
---Was any painting or drywall installation done before installing the wood floor?
---Was the temperature and relative humidity tested prior to installation?

These are just a few considerations. A lot more information is required.

c) If the plank already has an excessive amount of flex, this is also a concern.

Is this a bad plank or was the proper installation and adhesive used?

d) Spacing between planks. No matter what the reason, this is the installer responsibility.

---As others stated, maybe, it is a piece of adhesive between planks. This should have been checked during the installation.
---Is it a bad box of planks, where the edges are not smooth...........again, installer responsibility.

If there is only one gap, maybe it can be fixed depending on the location and amount of gap.

e) the newel post is not acceptable. The installer can buy a new one.

With 17 years as an insuranace restorer and former adjuster, I am, on a daily basis, performing damage assessment.

Again, my biggest concern is whether a vapor emission test with a concrete moisture meter was used or whether a calcium chloride test was performed on the slab for excessive vapor emission.

If you paid for it and it's your home, why not have it done right?

This can be a detailed conversation to fix with many open variables to be answered. Send me a PM if you need more info on how to handle. Once we clarify details, I don't mind posting the resolution.


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## We Fix Houses (Aug 15, 2007)

dvatt - the last one I did - floating 6" wide - came out about perfect but I had to burn some planks / recut to do it. Complex hallway, w/ 6 doorways and den and foyer. Ended up with about 15% waste. Curious to know how much flooring was purchased over and above the actual sq ft ? I don't think I could do as good a job without some addl planks to work with except on a very basic install. 

I don't think these installers have too much extra to work with. I also don't install everyday.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

I actually had an entire box left over. another thing that I found odd was that the boards are run perpendicular to the front door.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

dvatt said:


> I actually had an entire box left over. another thing that I found odd was that the boards are run perpendicular to the front door.


There is not much to say,when you get a job done by those guys, don't expect consultation with you about job beforehand.They are in and out in no time-unlike going to boss's store; you are in,lost and never out!
Unfortunately the job is done accordingly what the installers paid for, not how much you paid.


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## CookeCarpentry (Feb 26, 2009)

dvatt said:


> I actually had an entire box left over. another thing that I found odd was that the boards are run perpendicular to the front door.


I'm sorry, but how do you list your trade as carpentry and get taken for a ride like this?


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

I am a deck builder


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