# Why did the floor patch flake up?



## Matthew Healy (Aug 31, 2009)

Hi guys, just wondering if anyone can tell me why the floor patch I used cracked and came up. The product is Henry's from HD. I applied it over concrete to cover a crack. I'm not a flooring guy by trade. I do custom stairs. That market is dead, so I'm just trying to survive. Thanks for any help.


----------



## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

How about going back & giving us an intro.:thumbsup:

Didn't bond. Substrate not clean, patch mixed wrong, got cold, too thin. Any number of reasons. I'm sure one of the floor pros will come along & set it straight.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Matthew Healy said:


> Hi guys, just wondering if anyone can tell me why the floor patch I used cracked and came up. The product is Henry's from HD. I applied it over concrete to cover a crack. I'm not a flooring guy by trade. I do custom stairs. That market is dead, so I'm just trying to survive. Thanks for any help.


Was the concrete contaminant free?
Was the patch done in a traffic area and left uncovered?
Did the crack widen or contract?

More info needed.


----------



## Bastien1337 (Dec 20, 2010)

Did you prime it before your pour?
did you wait for the primer to dry?
did you leave it on too thick?


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Bastien1337 said:


> Did you prime it before your pour?
> did you wait for the primer to dry?
> did you leave it on too thick?


The Henry's patch stuff doesn't require primer.


----------



## Matthew Healy (Aug 31, 2009)

There was carpeting down. We tore it out and there was adhesive left on the concrete. A flooring friend of mine told me to rent a sander and sand it smooth and clean. We did that. The sander did not get down to "new" concrete everywhere. There has been no one walking on it. It didn't get below 60 degrees. No we didn't prime it. I'm not sure what you mean by that. The crack didn't move at all. It's not very big, 1/16"-1/8" wide and 10' long. I just skimmed over it trying to smooth it out. The patch is only 1/8" thick in the middle and goes to nothing on the edges.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

You needed to get to virgin concrete. A grinder or diamond cup wheel would be way more efficient.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

What is going to be installed on this repaired concrete after you fix the crack.

JW


----------



## Bastien1337 (Dec 20, 2010)

angus242 said:


> The Henry's patch stuff doesn't require primer.


doesnt mean that a primer application wouldnt help


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Bastien1337 said:


> doesnt mean that a primer application wouldnt help


Right but it shouldn't be a reason for failure either.

First of all, the concrete should have been cleaned properly.
Secondly, I would not have chosen a HD concrete repair material. 

Overall the Henry's stuff should have done the job. The problem was the carpet adhesive left over (IMO).


----------



## Bastien1337 (Dec 20, 2010)

Matthew Healy said:


> There was carpeting down. We tore it out and there was adhesive left on the concrete. A flooring friend of mine told me to rent a sander and sand it smooth and clean. We did that. The sander did not get down to "new" concrete everywhere. There has been no one walking on it. It didn't get below 60 degrees. *No we didn't prime it. I'm not sure what you mean by that.* The crack didn't move at all. It's not very big, 1/16"-1/8" wide and 10' long. I just skimmed over it trying to smooth it out. The patch is only 1/8" thick in the middle and goes to nothing on the edges.


this is what I mean


----------



## Bastien1337 (Dec 20, 2010)

angus242 said:


> Right but it shouldn't be a reason for failure either.
> 
> First of all, the concrete should have been cleaned properly.
> Secondly, I would not have chosen a HD concrete repair material.
> ...


you're probably right..but that information wasn't present at the time I posted.


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Best product out there for this kind of stuff is Ardex.

They specialize in concrete patch compounds, world wide company, first rate products.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Henry is owned by Ardex.....or vice versa.


----------



## dprimc (Mar 13, 2009)

angus242 said:


> Secondly, I would not have chosen a HD concrete repair material. (IMO).


Especially when it is out of your area of expertise, since everyone knows Home Depot carries all the best products.... 

Most likely the adhesive.


----------



## Matthew Healy (Aug 31, 2009)

Thanks Guys. Angus you're right, I will get a grinder. John I'm putting vct down.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Sorry no experience with Vct. Would a stucco mesh and thin set repair work?

Will the crack reappear in time?


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

JohnFRWhipple said:


> Would a stucco mesh and thin set repair work?


No way. I would _never _recommend that method for any type of flooring.


----------



## Matthew Healy (Aug 31, 2009)

So I'm assuming that the old adhesive would prevent the new vct from sticking as well. So now I have to grind it? Does a grinder leave a floor ready to install the new floor or do you have to float a thin coat of concrete over the old?


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

You have 2 choices. Skim coat concrete in current condition or grind to vigin concrete.

The skim coat will cost in materials. The grinding will cost in labor.

Go get some Mapei Novoplan Easy self leveling compound and Mapei Primer L (Menards should carry this). Put down the primer per instructions. Allow to dry. Pour the self leveling compound. In 2 days, you'll have an acceptable floor to install the VCT without having to remove all the old adhesive.

While you probably don't have access to it, a concrete grinder and extractor will allow you to grind off all the old adhesive in a few hours with minimal dust. The VCT will be ready to install after cleaning the dust off the floor.


----------



## Matthew Healy (Aug 31, 2009)

Thanks again I really appreciate it!


----------

