# Metal trim edge finish issues



## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

I have a bathroom tile job where the water proof board is almost 1/2 inch further out from the drywall along the same wall. The new tub was 1 1/2 shorter for fit than the old tub. The abutting drywall finished painted walls are 6 ft long and have the existing vanity/toilet on one wall and a linen closet door on the other. I've shimmed all the walls before to get passed this issue. BUT this time that can't happen. I figure I'm going to be an inch out on each side and the jolly is only 1/2 inch max I can buy.
Any ideas how I can hide that other 1/2 inch on both sides. I wonder if I could double up the jolly. Install one behind the waterproofing to cover it then the other for the thinset and tile. I was looking for an image on the google where maybe it had been done. No luck


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## CPMKW (Apr 28, 2014)

Not sure I understand what you have going on but if my guess is right I would be finishing with drywall bead, mud and paint.

Might need to use a speciality bead like tearaway or L trim bead.

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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

CPMKW said:


> Not sure I understand what you have going on but if my guess is right I would be finishing with drywall bead, mud and paint.
> 
> Might need to use a speciality bead like tearaway or L trim bead.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


I have done that before but at 1/2 inch its not much of a drywall return.


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## CPMKW (Apr 28, 2014)

True, but a 1/2" of painted corner looks better than an 1" of stacked trims.

I did used a pencil border tile vertically once to cover it. Looked good but I seldom use any border tiles in my bathrooms.

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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Use 425 No-Coat for your corner bead.

Tom


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## BattleBornNV (Jul 27, 2017)

Schluter. 2.8-Shiene step. 

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/For-Countertops/c/P-FC

Main page 

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/For-Walls/c/P-FW


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## dmcarnes (Dec 13, 2015)

I've seen a few bathrooms done with a pvc or painted wood trim that look pretty good. A 1x1, 1x2 or so should frame out the bath and cover the change in planes from the bathroom walls to the shower/bath walls - a little more flexible and covers more space than the jolly.


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

I've done it with glossy stained oak trim, I've also done it with brushed aluminum stock from home depot in a bathroom where they were going for a modern slick metal design style. Looked pretty awesome with the brushed nickel fixtures actually. 

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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

onmywayup said:


> I've done it with glossy stained oak trim, I've also done it with brushed aluminum stock from home depot in a bathroom where they were going for a modern slick metal design style. Looked pretty awesome with the brushed nickel fixtures actually.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I'm going to look at this solution. I've used this material for LED strip lighting applications. Never thought of a tiled edge. I think I'd have to slide it behind the Prova board and make sure I have 1/2 inch reveal left for the thinset and tile.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I've used that aluminum edging Depot sells in that one section with the punch bar and angle iron stock. I had a raw tile edge that needed disguise for a linen closet and it the small angle worked well. I sanded it and gave it a brushed nickle look.


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

superseal said:


> I've used that aluminum edging Depot sells in that one section with the punch bar and angle iron stock. I had a raw tile edge that needed disguise for a linen closet and it the small angle worked well. I sanded it and gave it a brushed nickle look.


Like the work.:thumbsup:
I'm going to HD tomorrow to look it over. I'm thinking I'm going to have to slip this under the Prova. Or at least leave the Prova a little loose close to the edge so I get it underneath before tiling.


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