# Sound-proofing walls and ceilings in basement remodel



## stanfordconst (Mar 7, 2010)

I have a new unfinished basement remodel that will turn a basement into a small apartment. The other half of the basement is used by the homeowner as a meditation room. They want sound-proofing both in the walls between the apartment and the meditation room, as well as in the ceiling between the apartment and the main house.

This may be considered two topics... first, what is the best (and most economical) way to soundproof a wall? What kind of insulation inside the wall, and what kind of drywall (or other wall exterior) is best?

For the ceiling, same thing - what kind of insulation/exterior ceiling covering is best?

Any other considerations we should be looking at?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

You are asking for conflicting information. Best and economical aren't usually in the same category. 

Standard construction would be 1/2" gypsum board over wood or metal stud framing with fiberglass insulation. When you start using foam or mineral wool for insulation, resilient channels for framing and QuietRock drywall, they are considered premium products and are priced accordingly.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

If you do a site search, you will find
a great number of threads on the topic.
Any amount of research will reveal
the fact that most every expert and
contractor has their own pet theories
and methods.
Do some work, then come back here.


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## BuildersII (Dec 20, 2009)

The the HO to save their money and buy some of these: http://www.amazon.com/Hearos-Ultimate-Softness-Ear-Plugs/dp/B000NPBEZC


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## DavidLuke (Apr 21, 2010)

Start by checking the areas around the windows, doors, and electrical outlets. Are they properly sealed? If not, you'll need to get some acoustical caulk like quietseal and fill in the cracks. 
Are your doors hollow or solid? Try replacing hollow doors with stronger, solid doors to help block sound and seal all the gaps with Weatherstrips.
Finally, you'll use a series of techniques to add damping compound and drywall or quietrock to the walls and ceilings. Apply the damping compound to your existing surface (as it is), screw the new drywall over top, and fill in the seams with acoustical caulk and repaint.


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## Jeff G (Apr 5, 2010)

A lot of the effectiveness of soundproofing depends on what sounds (frequencies) you are trying to isolate. Higher frequencies are much easier to control than are the lower ones, as these are physically large enough (when they complete their cycle) to pass through typical wall construction. As already pointed out here there are many ways and techniques to deal with "soundproofing". Each has a different effect of various frequencies as well as the "absorption coefficiencies" (how well they reflect or absorb various frequencies) of materials used. There are even different insulation panels sold that effectively absorb specific frequency ranges. 

But in general terms, just try to isolate or change the way sounds can transmit through walls, ceiling, floors. Varying thickness of sheetrock (i.e., 1/2 one side 5/8 the other side) from one side of a wall to the other will cause sound wavelengths to change or dampen. Also, insulation made from denim (blue jeans) is much better at sound dampening than your typical fiberglass insulation batts. But keep in mind low end frequencies can travel through any framing members that are not physically isolated from the other side of the wall, ceiling, etc.


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## BattleRidge (Feb 9, 2008)

If its really important for sound I could blow cellulose and then do a layer of 535


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## BattleRidge (Feb 9, 2008)

535 quietrock


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## 2concept (May 24, 2010)

*A new product*

Check out serious materials they have a new product that they call "Quietboard". I'm new to this forum and when I tried to send you the URL address to answer your posted question I was told that I can only add a link to another site after having posted 15 times......so you will need to add the typical http: stuff and there will be not space between the serious and the materials.

NO I HAVE NO VESTED INTEREST IN THAT COMPANY,,,,,MY SON IS A PATTEN EXAMINER WITH THE US PATENTS OFFICE AND HE TOLD ABOUT THIS PRODUCT FOR SOUND ATTENUATION IT LOOKED GOOD TO ME.


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## Taylor8 (Feb 17, 2010)

We just discussed basement sound proofing in the insulation area, heres a link.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f80/basement-ceiling-sound-dampening-75322/


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

There is a mix of information in this thread. Some conflicting. Fortunately there is lab data that tells us what the right thing to do is. You can build a very well isolated room at a reasonable cost if you follow the following basic, tried and true methodology.

#1 Decouple the framing. This can be done with staggered stud or double stud walls. To decouple the ceiling, consider clips&channel. Resilient Channel (RC-1) attempts to decouple, however there is no industry standard or specification for its construction, so I’d be concerned about using it.

#2 Install absorption in the cavities. This means standard fiberglass R13 in the walls, R19 in the ceiling. Know that there is no data that supports that any other insulation (including the “acoustic” labeled, and recycled cotton) works better. Also, foam (open or closed cell) is superior for thermal, but distinctly worse for acoustic. Use the cheapest fiberglass you can find.

#3 Add mass. Nothing better than standard 5/8” TypeX. Great mass at 70+ pounds a board, and cheap at $7 a sheet. Use two layers. Only mud and tape the final layer.

#4 Consider damping these drywall panels with one of several field-applied damping compounds. Some work better than others, and independent lab data shows you get what you pay for here. 

After that, you’d turn your attention to the ventilation, lights and doors. All of these are flanking paths for sound to get out of the formidable room you just built. They can be dealt with fairly easily, but you’ll want to design this in.


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## Rio (Oct 13, 2009)

*Mass loaded vinyl*

How about using mass loaded vinyl? This is supposed to be almost as good as sheet lead for sound reduction........................


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Good thought. MLV is heavy. Good source of mass. So is drywall. So is subflooring.


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## ultimatetouch (May 27, 2006)

I use cellulose when soundproofing a bedroom or bathroom. This works fine for most of my home remodeling needs. However extra measures will need to be taken if you want it to be ultra soundproof.


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## NaeGan (Sep 8, 2009)

I may be mistaken, and it may have already been posted, but in my opinion, you will not only want to use the Quietrock like previously said, but also use Green Glue. It blocks 80% of sound transfer through the studs, but you need a fire break also. I'd put some Thermafiber Mineral Wool in there. Its rated twice as high as normal fiberglass batt insulation for resistance. I'd put it in the ceilings and the walls.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

I'd suggest keeping this simple. 

Standard drywall is inexpensive. Use it and damp it in the field.

Pre-damped "soundproof" drywall brands have no mystery ingredient. Simply standard drywall (maybe a sheet of standard cement board) and a damping layer. Do it yourself and save a great deal of money AND have a better wall when you're done.

Cellulose, mineral fiber, fiberglass, polyester, cotton are all light, fluffy and open. All are good. Just don't compact any of them or they will all conduct a vibration = bad.


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## Jeff G (Apr 5, 2010)

Ted White said:


> I'd suggest keeping this simple.
> 
> Standard drywall is inexpensive. Use it and damp it in the field.
> 
> ...


You are absolutely correct Ted. Keeping it simple will work for the vast majority of applications in a residential setting. As it sure can, and does, get pretty darn involved when trying to isolate certain troublesome frequencies (i.e., trains, planes, automobiles (yeah, I know, that's a movie!!:w00t, various industrial noises, etc, all with potentially varying frequencies). I have in the past worked with a world renowned recording studio (control rooms) designer, Tom Hidley, and tuning rooms down to 18 - 20 Hz was quite the challenge (at least it was a little over 10-15 years ago), particularly at different locations.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Wow. That's not your daddy's studio, now is it?

I can tell you that designs that isolate at 15Hz are still a bear to build, just like 15 years ago. 

Thanks for bringing that up!


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## Jeff G (Apr 5, 2010)

Ted White said:


> Wow. That's not your daddy's studio, now is it?
> 
> I can tell you that designs that isolate at 15Hz are still a bear to build, just like 15 years ago.
> 
> Thanks for bringing that up!


No Sir, not me mommies studio either!:jester::w00t::laughing::shutup:

I've worked at Kiva/House of Blues - Memphis, Oceanway - Nashville, and Kiva - Los Angles. Also worked at Kiva/House of Blues in Memphis for a little over 5 years (hiatus from construction) doing some engineering and production work. I had a lot of fun, but put in a lot of hours too.

For many years, I used to get a free subscription to Mix Magazine (let it lapse whilst relocating) where as I would keep up with industry news and such. I was not aware of isolating down to 15Hz. I bet that is rather challenging. But, personally, I love a good challenge!:thumbsup:

Thanks for posting all you have Ted. Very helpful stuff!:thumbup:


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## joesmith (Aug 25, 2009)

Ted White said:


> Good thought. MLV is heavy. Good source of mass. So is drywall. So is subflooring.


I'm thinking just mass loaded vinyl would work for some soundproofing.


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