# Best cordless tools



## mpmaint (Sep 16, 2010)

Im at the point where I need to start replacing some of my cordless stuff. I've got some Dewalts and Milwaukee's. 
What are you guys useing?
Who's got the best tools?
Some great deals going on right now and I'd like to take advantage.


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

Makita LXT 18 volt all the way here. 
I've got:
2- 6 1/2" circular saws
sd hammer drill
regular hammer drill
2- standard drills
2 impact guns
Recip saw
2 flashlights
radio
right angle impact
right angle drill
Angle grinder
6- 3Ah batteries
4- 1.5Ah batteries

Once you get a few 3amp hour batteries, the list just goes on forever. I have yet to have a single tool fail on me yet although the impacts are starting to show some wear. Love to have everything interchangeable the way they have this set up. Just be careful once you start its kind of hard to stop. I can generally find bare tools on Ebay for less than amazon or anyone else. 

I'm praying for a set of 1/2" cement backer board shears to be released. I'd be first in line for those as well.


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## Rob PA (Aug 30, 2010)

dewalts have been good for me..i had one hitachi when i first started out go bad on me....it was a 12v drill/driver..couldnt blame it i put it 3 inch deck screws in while building a deck...it died on me putting the last screw in on a junction box we were wiring in


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

Makita LXT 18 volt all the way here.:thumbsup:


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Makita all the way here. I have old & new. The stuff held up to a crew using & abusing it. What more could you ask for?

I know a couple of guys having luck with the newer Dewalt stuff.


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## Santa's Helpers (Jun 12, 2009)

I've gone through several brands. The Ridgid 24v has been pretty good. You can't beat a lifetime warranty on batteries. (when I bought them).
As I get older, my tools gain weight and feel heavier.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I have Makita too. I went with the Black and White instead of the Blue because it is smaller and I am in the shop most of the time without a need for a lot of grunt in my drivers.

I picked up the mini stuff that runs 10.8 volts and they are great. Good power for the size and fit into a lot of places normal drills won't go.

I have 2 of the compact drills and one of the clutches is getting a bit weak. I use it incorrectly, so I can't blame it.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Make the switch to lithium. It's the future. I just got the new 12volt Dewalts lithium and they are lightweight and don't loose their charge like the old batteries.

All the manufacturers will be going lithium.


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Makita 18V lithium and 10.8V/12V lithium. We have about a dozen 18v batts, 4 drills, 4 impacts, 2 circ saws, 2 sawzalls, grinder, stapler, then the 10.8/12V stuff is 6 batts, 3 drills, 2 impacts, and the 3 3/8" saw.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

I am gonna beat him to it.

FESTOOL! 

I personally use Makita.


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## Holman (Sep 28, 2010)

I bought the black and white Makita new this past may. 18 v Litheom Ion and one of my batteries will not hold a charge starting last week. It just flashes the "Deffective Battery" signal. So im gonna try the M28 milwaukee series and see where that gets me.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

The batteries have a 3 year warranty on them. Bring it back for exchange.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

For just a drill I would say Festool but, for a whole set, I have no idea I don't use cordless tools.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Another point is if you stick with one brand, then the batteries are interchangeable.

My makitas are history, it's all dewalt now. But there was nothing wrong with the makitas, just decided to stick with one brand.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I did the swap from Makita to DeWalt a long time ago. Now I am back with the Makita's.


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

Makita, with a couple dewalt's thrown in.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Holman said:


> I bought the black and white Makita new this past may. 18 v Litheom Ion and one of my batteries will not hold a charge starting last week. It just flashes the "Deffective Battery" signal. So im gonna try the M28 milwaukee series and see where that gets me.


Those 28v Milwaukees are some of the worst batteries I have ever seen. (sarcasm) Good thing I bought 3 of them...(/sarcasm)


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## WestwoodHomes (Jan 18, 2010)

For what it's worth I have a Hilti combo drill set. I have had them for a little over a year and have beat the crap out of both of them and they just keep going. I also have a pair of Festool C12's that only get used indoors, far and away the best drills I have ever owned but I won't use them for some of the things I use the Hilti for.


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## Remodelor (Nov 5, 2010)

Since the only cordless tools I ever use are drills, I go with the Panasonic 15.6V NiMH drill. Battery lasts seemingly forever, the drill is very small and light, has high torque and you can get it for about $200 online. The only downside is no bit holder, but otherwise a fantastic all-around drill. I never seem to have a need for a cordless circular / reciprocating saw, so I couldn't tell you much about the Panasonic versions other than that they do exist.

There are a ton of good manufacturers, but no drill is *the* best. They all have strengths and weaknesses which are nicely laid out here:

http://www.cordless-drill-reviews.com/

Choose according to your needs.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

They panny's are super nice as well.


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## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

74craig said:


> I have the 18v lion Milwaukee impact and drill.I really like the feel and performance so far.


I think I have the same ones as you. Great drills.

The m18's, right?


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

Brutus said:


> I think I have the same ones as you. Great drills.
> 
> The m18's, right?



My boss got that combo kit recently and I definitely covet it. That drill mysteriously ends up in my hands quite often.
It's a great drill. Plenty of power. What the drill can't finish, the impact definitely can. Made in China, but what isn't?
Best feature is that the battery charges faster than I can wear out the other battery. I would say no exaggeration 20 minutes from stone cold dead to fully charged. If you get a 3rd battery(I think the Depot has them for somewhere in the 65-75 range) you'll never run out of juice, even if you're consistently driving 3 or 4 inch screws. Not sure why you'd even be doing that, but it's good to know. hah

I haven't used the Makitas, but I really like these new Milwaukees.


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## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

Easy Gibson said:


> My boss got that combo kit recently and I definitely covet it. That drill mysteriously ends up in my hands quite often.
> It's a great drill. Plenty of power. What the drill can't finish, the impact definitely can. Made in China, but what isn't?
> Best feature is that the battery charges faster than I can wear out the other battery. I would say no exaggeration 20 minutes from stone cold dead to fully charged. If you get a 3rd battery(I think the Depot has them for somewhere in the 65-75 range) you'll never run out of juice, even if you're consistently driving 3 or 4 inch screws. Not sure why you'd even be doing that, but it's good to know. hah
> 
> I haven't used the Makitas, but I really like these new Milwaukees.


 
I want to get teh XC batterys to have that extra life. I check eBay from time to time to see if any are at auction.


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## 74craig (Dec 28, 2010)

Brutus said:


> I think I have the same ones as you. Great drills.
> 
> The m18's, right?


Yes thats them.I like the light weight of them.A third battery is on my list.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

i cant believe nobody has mentioned the dewalt 36 volt tools. they are the most powerful cordless available.
the tools literally perform like corded tools. we'd frame whole buildings using the cordless saws. its nice not having to drag cords everywhere.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

3bar said:


> i cant believe nobody has mentioned the dewalt 36 volt tools. they are the most powerful cordless available.
> the tools literally perform like corded tools. we'd frame whole buildings using the cordless saws. its nice not having to drag cords everywhere.


Powerful maybe but they weight more than a corded tool. Unless you have No power on site then there's no reason to need that extra power as 18v will still do 99% stuff they can.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

3bar said:


> i cant believe nobody has mentioned the dewalt 36 volt tools. they are the most powerful cordless available.
> the tools literally perform like corded tools. we'd frame whole buildings using the cordless saws. its nice not having to drag cords everywhere.


I'd run right along side of the DeWalt all day with this:









But then again, why would I want to lug a 36v when an 18 will do just fine at half the weight?

My buddy, who works for Bosch, loaned me one to try. I think that I have used it once. It has been sitting in the shop for the past 2 months. It's time to go back. Every time I think of grabbing it, I think of the weight and how bulky it is. No thanks!


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

BCConstruction said:


> Powerful maybe but they weight more than a corded tool. Unless you have No power on site then *there's no reason to need that extra power as 18v will still do 99% stuff they can*.


are you serious? :blink:

the 36 volt has lots more power, and the batteries last at least twice as long over the 18 volt. and with the 36 volt, there is no power drop off. its full voltage until the battery dies.

i dont even carry a corded saw, sawzall, or drill around with me anymore.

dont knock it till you try it.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I'd run right along side of the DeWalt all day with this:
> 
> View attachment 41233
> 
> ...


agree about the bulky drill. i dont use the 36 volt dewalt to drive screws, but i definetly use it for boring big holes, and mixing thinsets.


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## Remodelor (Nov 5, 2010)

3bar said:


> agree about the bulky drill. i dont use the 36 volt dewalt to drive screws, but i definetly use it for boring big holes, and mixing thinsets.


On the few occasions when I need a super powerful drill, I use my 8 amp $90 Miluakee Magnum drill. I don't need portability when mixing mud, although if I were boring a bunch of big holes then it'd come in pretty handy. Cutting can light holes in a metal lathe plaster ceiling comes to mind.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

3bar said:


> are you serious? :blink:
> 
> the 36 volt has lots more power, and the batteries last at least twice as long over the 18 volt. and with the 36 volt, there is no power drop off. its full voltage until the battery dies.
> 
> ...


Yes I'm serious. I have owned the dewalt 36v drill and also owned the makita 36v drill back when i used to work on sites with no power. Guess what though! The drills both never got used as the 18v setups would be fine for 99% of our work. theres just no need for it and the one time you need the power of 36v you may as well pull out your corded drill. Also clearly your un aware of battery technology as the 36v tools use the exact same batteries as the 18v drills and they a around 2.4ah batteries so they both have the same exact capacity. Also the drop off in power has nothing to do with the 36v batteries and more to do with battery chemistry as li-ion holds their voltage right until current runs out.


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## Hobroom (Jan 30, 2007)

Before you go calling others 'unaware of technology' you should know that it's the number of watt hours, which is V x Ah, that is the capacity of the batteries, so the 36V batteries have twice the watt hours compared to a 18V 2.4AH battery.

You've used the DW 36V?? You wouldn't be saying what you are if you actually did. The saws in that kit make the 18V versions worthless literally. Had mine going on 5 years and the batteries are still rock solid. If I used 18V for the same as what I've done with that kit, I wouldn't even want to know how many batteries I would have gone through by now.

By the way, the 36V circ saw is NOT heavier than corded saw. It's lighter than most.



BCConstruction said:


> Yes I'm serious. I have owned the dewalt 36v drill and also owned the makita 36v drill back when i used to work on sites with no power. Guess what though! The drills both never got used as the 18v setups would be fine for 99% of our work. theres just no need for it and the one time you need the power of 36v you may as well pull out your corded drill. Also clearly your un aware of battery technology as the 36v tools use the exact same batteries as the 18v drills and they a around 2.4ah batteries so they both have the same exact capacity. Also the drop off in power has nothing to do with the 36v batteries and more to do with battery chemistry as li-ion holds their voltage right until current runs out.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

BCConstruction said:


> Yes I'm serious. I have owned the dewalt 36v drill and also owned the makita 36v drill back when i used to work on sites with no power. Guess what though! The drills both never got used as the 18v setups would be fine for 99% of our work. theres just no need for it and the one time you need the power of 36v you may as well pull out your corded drill. Also clearly your un aware of battery technology as the 36v tools use the exact same batteries as the 18v drills and they a around 2.4ah batteries so they both have the same exact capacity. Also the drop off in power has nothing to do with the 36v batteries and more to do with battery chemistry as li-ion holds their voltage right until current runs out.


you're right, for most light work, 18 volt is plenty for drills, but when you want corded performance, the 36 volt system is where its at.




Hobroom said:


> Before you go calling others 'unaware of technology' you should know that it's the number of watt hours, which is V x Ah, that is the capacity of the batteries, so the 36V batteries have twice the watt hours compared to a 18V 2.4AH battery.
> 
> You've used the DW 36V?? You wouldn't be saying what you are if you actually did. The saws in that kit make the 18V versions worthless literally. Had mine going on 5 years and the batteries are still rock solid. If I used 18V for the same as what I've done with that kit, I wouldn't even want to know how many batteries I would have gone through by now.
> 
> By the way, the 36V circ saw is NOT heavier than corded saw. It's lighter than most.


well said :thumbsup: i'd also like to add that dewalt uses the exclusive Nanophosphate battery technology from A123 systems, which are the best battery cells available. even hobby guys buy the dewalt 36 volt batteries and take out the cells to use in their rc airplanes and whatnot.
www.a123systems.com/a123/applications/portable-power


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## carp.780 (Jan 2, 2010)

I work beside a guy with a full Milwaukee M18 kit, another guy with a full Makita LXT kit, and I myself have a full Bosch Litheon kit. We have this debate everyday but it's mostly poking fun at each other; "I saw you're taking out trash, don't forget that Makita bag full of tools". Coffee time usually features some kind of showdown.

After having drill, driver and reciprocating saw competitions I have observed a few noticeable points:
-the milwaukee and bosch tools tie for the win nearly every time, with the edge usually going to the bosch
-the makita has the best ergonomics
-milwaukee's battery charge indicator should be adopted by everyone
-the bosch lineup is limited compared to the other two (to my dismay)
-the milwaukees heat up very quickly

What it all boils down to is personal preferance. It's hard to go wrong with most large tool manufacturers since the field is so competitive. I can say that with a full cordless line I rarely run any cords anymore, and if they were stolen I would buy another set immediately. Any tradesman who can appreciate efficiency needs a set. I've eliminated generators off many one day jobs and save so much time because the tool I need is always right in my bag and ready to go.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Hobroom said:


> Before you go calling others 'unaware of technology' you should know that it's the number of watt hours, which is V x Ah, that is the capacity of the batteries, so the 36V batteries have twice the watt hours compared to a 18V 2.4AH battery.
> 
> You've used the DW 36V?? You wouldn't be saying what you are if you actually did. The saws in that kit make the 18V versions worthless literally. Had mine going on 5 years and the batteries are still rock solid. If I used 18V for the same as what I've done with that kit, I wouldn't even want to know how many batteries I would have gone through by now.
> 
> By the way, the 36V circ saw is NOT heavier than corded saw. It's lighter than most.


Im not talking about power I'm talking about run time. It don't matter if it's 240v 2.4ah or 1v 2.4ah voltage only increases speed and this speed can be converted into more TQ. As an example my 4s race packs last almost exactly the same amount of time as my 6c race packs as they are both 5000mah batteries. Yes I have the extra power the 6s can put out but guess what, its un needed just like 36v tools are for 99% of people. I know they are more powerful and I'm not saying they ain't. Why do you think almost every person who has a 36v never uses them. They all get rid of them. Perhaps try some good quality 18v tools before comparing the 2 types of tools.

Also I buy every tool I think I may need and have no problem buying the tool if it will get used and a 36v tool of any type would never be on my list. Even if I was on sites that had no power.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

3bar said:


> you're right, for most light work, 18 volt is plenty for drills, but when you want corded performance, the 36 volt system is where its at.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Lol ohhh dear another person sucked in by dewalt. Ok first off when nano tech cells first come out of any type they were all the rage. Guess what though. That was around 6-8 years ago and even I was taking them apart to build packs with. But technology has come a long way and cell capacity now is upto around 8000mah for current available tech. The Sony cells used in makita batteries work out to almost the exact same spec when calculated and have an even faster charging time and they were out before the nano tech batteries.

Maybe check some previous posts about this as someone on here wouldn't have it until I posted specs for both batteries.


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

You know that BCConstruction is a baaaad Makita....shut yo' mouth.:laughing:










:jester::laughing::laughing::laughing::jester:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Smify06 (Dec 23, 2010)

Makita LXT 18v 3AH all day long, dewalt has been taken over by black and decker and anyone from the uk should know that black and decker is B&Q's own make and it is total horse poo!!


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Smify06 said:


> Makita LXT 18v 3AH all day long, dewalt has been taken over by black and decker and anyone from the uk should know that black and decker is B&Q's own make and it is total horse poo!!


Black and Decker has owned the DeWalt brand for a very long time, not headline news.


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

The wide ass pictures of some super big Dewalts are making me not want to read this thread anymore.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

Warren said:


> This doesn't make any sense. So lets say you do an apartment per day. How big are these apartments that a single cord plugged into one outlet once per day will not suffice? You have to plug a charger into the wall right? And you say you still get a cord out for the miter saw. Cordless tools have their uses. Production framing on an everyday basis is not one of them.


majority of the buildings we'd do were 3 story 12-unit buildings, sometimes townhomes. 
we'd set up a miter saw by the lumber pile, and had a guy dedicated all day to just chopping cripples, headers, blocks etc all day, for everything else, use a cordless saw. why would i waste time dragging a cord up onto a roof or etc, when i could just grab a cordless saw, and keep a spare battery nearby or in my pouch. you guys are so use to the short run time of the 18 volt tools, that its hard for you to grasp the run time of the 36 volt saws.
on one building we counted how many full batteries it'd take to cut all the sheething on a large 90'x55' hip roof 5/12 pitch. it only took 3 batteries. and no cords to trip over...


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

3bar said:


> majority of the buildings we'd do were 3 story 12-unit buildings, sometimes townhomes.
> we'd set up a miter saw by the lumber pile, and had a guy dedicated all day to just chopping cripples, headers, blocks etc all day, for everything else, use a cordless saw. why would i waste time dragging a cord up onto a roof or etc, when i could just grab a cordless saw, and keep a spare battery nearby or in my pouch. you guys are so use to the short run time of the 18 volt tools, that its hard for you to grasp the run time of the 36 volt saws.
> on one building we counted how many full batteries it'd take to cut all the sheething on a large 90'x55' hip roof 5/12 pitch. it only took 3 batteries. and no cords to trip over...


So three trips back to the charger takes longer than one trip to plug in a cord? I would love to see you lug around one of those batteries in your pouch.


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

3bar said:


> majority of the buildings we'd do were 3 story 12-unit buildings, sometimes townhomes.
> we'd set up a miter saw by the lumber pile, and had a guy dedicated all day to just chopping cripples, headers, blocks etc all day, for everything else, use a cordless saw. why would i waste time dragging a cord up onto a roof or etc, when i could just grab a cordless saw, and keep a spare battery nearby or in my pouch. you guys are so use to the short run time of the 18 volt tools, that its hard for you to grasp the run time of the 36 volt saws.
> on one building we counted how many full batteries it'd take to cut all the sheething on a large 90'x55' hip roof 5/12 pitch. it only took 3 batteries. and no cords to trip over...


So you just have the cutman toss you up batteries as you need them?

Maybe you should have DeWalt sponsor you as their *model* jobsite.:jester:


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

3bar said:


> majority of the buildings we'd do were 3 story 12-unit buildings, sometimes townhomes.
> we'd set up a miter saw by the lumber pile, and had a guy dedicated all day to just chopping cripples, headers, blocks etc all day, for everything else, use a cordless saw. why would i waste time dragging a cord up onto a roof or etc, when i could just grab a cordless saw, and keep a spare battery nearby or in my pouch. you guys are so use to the short run time of the 18 volt tools, that its hard for you to grasp the run time of the 36 volt saws.
> on one building we counted how many full batteries it'd take to cut all the sheething on a large 90'x55' hip roof 5/12 pitch. it only took 3 batteries. and no cords to trip over...


So the sites you work on have power but you still choose to use a heavy cordless tool that has less power than the corded version. If you was really worried about speed you would use cordless tools as no matter how you look at it you have to go back and forth to the charger. Using cordless to to frame out building is like framing out buildings with a paslode. They a good for short amount of work where pulling hoses out takes longer than getting the cordless version out but if you doing the same jobs all day every day then theirs no doubt that corded is much faster than cordless and also much more reliable.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

Warren said:


> So three trips back to the charger takes longer than one trip to plug in a cord? I would love to see you lug around one of those batteries in your pouch.


no, just set a few batteries on the forklift before booming up the sheething.




mehtwo said:


> So you just have the cutman toss you up batteries as you need them?
> 
> Maybe you should have DeWalt sponsor you as their *model* jobsite.:jester:


i wish :whistling


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

3bar said:


> i try to be as cordless as possible on a jobsite. the time you waste plugging in and carrying around cords and hoses all day is a waste. * back when things were good, my crew and i would frame 300 apartment units a year, and we hardly ever touched the air nailers. instead we used paslode cordless nailers. and when the 36 volt lineup from dewalt came out, we stopped using corded saws, except miters. time is money,* and the speed and convenience that cordless provides, more than pays for itself. and those that complain about weight, the 36 volt saw is still lighter than carrying around a wormdrive.



I need to go get my boots on, this is getting ridiculous.:laughing:

I had to go back and make that part bold, it is funny.:laughing::laughing:


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

BCConstruction said:


> So the sites you work on have power but you still choose to use a heavy cordless tool that has less power than the corded version. If you was really worried about speed you would use cordless tools as no matter how you look at it you have to go back and forth to the charger. Using cordless to to frame out building is like framing out buildings with a paslode. They a good for short amount of work where pulling hoses out takes longer than getting the cordless version out but if you doing the same jobs all day every day then theirs no doubt that corded is much faster than cordless and also much more reliable.


i dont understand why you keep saying the cordless saws are heavy. a corded saw is heavier. 
and as for the paslodes, sure you have to buy the fuel cells, but the time saved more than pays for it. and on the safety side, the cordless paslode are way safer to use than the air nailers. no more accidental bump fires and nailed fingers.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I need to go get my boots on, this is getting ridiculous.:laughing:
> 
> I had to go back and make that part bold, it is funny.:laughing::laughing:


whats ridiculous is how many stubborn old timers there are out there, that are against doing things a different way.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Now I need my boots too. I have many cordless tools and also the paslode impulse framers. I would never use them every day. It would be ridiculous.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

I must admit I use my 24V circular saw more than any other circular saw.....but I don't do any framing....just cut the odd piece of plywood to mount my panels on. My 24V Hilti and the 36V Hilti are both lighter than my worm drive, and the weight isn't far off of my corded sidewinder either.

I think you guys are being a little hard on him, cords are a PITA. So what if he wants to run all cordless, if that's his style and he finds it the most productive go for it.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

Warren said:


> Now I need my boots too. I have many cordless tools and also the paslode impulse framers. I would never use them every day. It would be ridiculous.


i'll see you guys out on the jobsite :whistling


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

My biggest issue w/ pneumatic framing nailers was always the thick heavy hose that always seemed to be a bit too short or hung up on something as I was working on the second floor back when I was a full time framer. The Paslode is not as fast or as reliable as a good air nailer hooked to a wheelbarrow compressor, but it is safer on the second story and when I'm nailing rafters. For light use on remodel projects, nothing touches it. I own three Paslode cordless nailers at last count.

As far as accidental bumps and nailed fingers, that stuff is usually a result of disabling factory safeties. I did it, but it was never the tools fault.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Not to jinx myself, but 25 years and shot free! Nobody uses the impulses because they are faster. Saying so only portrays ignorance.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I find it ridiculous that someone would really want to do production framing with 95% cordless tools.

I mean where is the time savings using a paslode framer? 

I can't wait until that cordless cabinet saw I ordered shows up.:laughing:

I just sold my paslode guns because I found them to slow, loud, and stinky.

Just give me a cord and a air hose.


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> So what if he wants to run all cordless, if that's his style and he finds it the most productive go for it.


Besides, somebody needs to keep the cordless power tool companies in business!:jester:

.....then I'll buy them "slightly used" on Ebay and CL for less.:thumbup:


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

HandyHails said:


> As far as accidental bumps and nailed fingers, that stuff is usually a result of disabling factory safeties. I did it, but it was never the tools fault.


with air nailers, guys would usually bump fire the guns when nailing walls together. but too often, their aim would be off, and the nail would go skipping off the edge of plate, and nail themselves.

with the paslode, you cant bump fire, so its a lot safer. only had one guy nail himself with a paslode, and that was because he was trying to nail a hanger, and had his hand right next to it...the nail missed the hole, curled, and got his thumb.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

Warren said:


> Not to jinx myself, but 25 years and shot free! Nobody uses the impulses because they are faster. Saying so only portrays ignorance.


not faster at nail speed, but you dont waste time setting up compressors and dragging hoses around.
with a paslode, just pop a battery in and you're ready to nail.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

3bar said:


> with air nailers, guys would usually bump fire the guns when nailing walls together. but too often, their aim would be off, and the nail would go skipping off the edge of plate, and nail themselves.
> 
> with the paslode, you cant bump fire, so its a lot safer. only had one guy nail himself with a paslode, and that was because he was trying to nail a hanger, and had his hand right next to it...the nail missed the hole, curled, and got his thumb.


You do know that Paslode also makes real nailers right?? You keep referring to them like they are all Impulse models.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I find it ridiculous that someone would really want to do production framing with 95% cordless tools.
> 
> I mean where is the time savings using a paslode framer?
> 
> ...


you dont have to setup a compressor.
no hoses.
with a paslode you can just hang the nailer off your tool belt. never need to set it down. its right there next to your hammer, ready to fire. 

if you cant see the benefits, then i pitty you.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

Warren said:


> You do know that Paslode also makes real nailers right?? You keep referring to them like they are all Impulse models.


yes, but i think you know what i was referring to.


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

This is getting good!!

Anyone have experience w/ the new Paslode Impulse framers. Any real benefits? I think I read that they improved the safety on the nose to allow for easier firing in tight spaces. Is this true?

I saw they finally started carrying individual fuel cells for these at Lowes. $10 each though.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

3bar said:


> you dont have to setup a compressor.
> no hoses.
> with a paslode you can just hang the nailer off your tool belt. never need to set it down. its right there next to your hammer, ready to fire.
> 
> if you cant see the benefits, then i pitty you.


I had all of the damn impulse guns.

I thought they were awesome for like a year.

Then I realized that I spent a fortune in fuel cells, they were sloooooooowwww, loud and they stunk.

I don't understand why anyone would want to frame an entire structure with one. Not to mention use a cordless saw.

It takes like 5 minutes to drag out a compressor and plug some air hoses in.

What if you could get a cordless air compressor?:laughing:

When is that damn cordless shaper going to be delivered?


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I knew one guy who framed his houses entirely with Impulses. He is now out of business. Even he had the brains to at least use corded saws.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

3bar said:


> whats ridiculous is how many stubborn old timers there are out there, that are against doing things a different way.


Well I'm sure I'm younger than you to start with and using the right tools for the job has nothing to do with being stubborn. I put money on it I own more cordless tools than you and they have their place for sure but not for what your doing. Corded is much more productive for what your doing. Now if you would have told me your working out on sites drilling 2" holes through concrete all day for pipe work and power was not available and batts where charged in your truck then I would give a big :thumbsup: as that's what these tools a designed.

Your are also mistaken about them being lighter. They have less power and are heaveir than corded versions. 

As an example your saw weights in at 12.3 lbs from dewalts specs and a skil saw in the same blade size weights 9.2 lb and is much more powerful.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

3bar said:


> and as for the paslodes, sure you have to buy the fuel cells, but the time saved more than pays for it.


Those thinge are S L O W:whistlingyou use them on production framing:no: .


3bar said:


> and on the safety side, the cordless paslode are way safer to use than the air nailers..


 Not on production man:laughing:


3bar said:


> no more accidental bump fires and nailed fingers.


Where's the funn gone


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

HandyHails said:


> This is getting good!!
> 
> Anyone have experience w/ the new Paslode Impulse framers. Any real benefits? I think I read that they improved the safety on the nose to allow for easier firing in tight spaces. Is this true?
> 
> I saw they finally started carrying individual fuel cells for these at Lowes. $10 each though.


I bought it a few months back. It's a very nice gun but it ain't cheap to run. I have been using it to frame out some small partition walls and it works nice. Its still not as quick as my pneumatic makita nailer but it's nice not to have to get the cords out for just small jobs. I sometimes even run my makita nailer with my co2 system if my paslode gas is out.


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

My biggest issue w/ the Impulse framer has always been toe nailing in tight areas. You really got to give it hell to get the pressure to the nose so it will fire. Is this particular issue addressed in the new model?

Same battery?


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

HandyHails said:


> My biggest issue w/ the Impulse framer has always been toe nailing in tight areas. You really got to give it hell to get the pressure to the nose so it will fire. Is this particular issue addressed in the new model?
> 
> Same battery?


Yep same battery and toe nailing in tight places is better but still not great.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Atleast you won't saw through the cord on your circular saw. :whistling

Not that I've ever done that.....twice.....:shutup:


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

HandyHails said:


> This is getting good!!
> 
> Anyone have experience w/ the new Paslode Impulse framers. Any real benefits? I think I read that they improved the safety on the nose to allow for easier firing in tight spaces. Is this true?
> 
> I saw they finally started carrying individual fuel cells for these at Lowes. $10 each though.


on the paslode cf325, there are no rubber orings anymore. they instead use metal sealing rings, which last a lot longer. paslode also decided to change the fuel cell design, to force you to buy their nail/fuel combo packs, but they now sell the new fuel cell design seperately.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

HandyHails said:


> My biggest issue w/ the Impulse framer has always been toe nailing in tight areas. You really got to give it hell to get the pressure to the nose so it will fire. Is this particular issue addressed in the new model?
> 
> Same battery?


you sure your contact piece is adjusted right? if its all the way up, it can be tough to toe nail.


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

Yeah I think the loyal Impulse users felt betrayed by that little stunt. $10 each is total BS still and kind of a slap in the face. I expect it will come down soon enough though. Wonder if I could get a bulk discount.........



3bar said:


> you sure your contact piece is adjusted right? if its all the way up, it can be tough to toe nail.


Yeah, I know how to use my guns.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

A good tip for getting the nail packs a little cheaper is do a shop savvy scan on your phone and get lowes/HD to price match they will match and beat by 10%. makes them a bit more bearable.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

BCConstruction said:


> As an example your saw weights in at 12.3 lbs from dewalts specs and a skil saw in the same blade size weights 9.2 lb and is much more powerful.


i stand corrected. i just never felt a difference.


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## Rustbucket (May 22, 2009)

So 3Bar. Where are you located?


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

BCConstruction said:


> A good tip for getting the nail packs a little cheaper is do a shop savvy scan on your phone and get lowes/HD to price match they will match and beat by 10%. makes them a bit more bearable.


paslode nails have gone way up the last few years. 
even if you buy them by the pallet, you dont get much of a deal.
i stopped buying them. have been using hitachi nails lately.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

Rustbucket said:


> So 3Bar. Where are you located?


Illinois


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## vos (Apr 6, 2010)

For the cordles vs corded at school when we are building sets are dewalt 18v's work grate especially when you have girls at 5' 2" trying to drive 3" screws. The only time that I wished we had a corded saw was when i was cutting a par of stringers 5 steps high took 3 or 4 batters. But in there defense they were not all less then 2 years old.


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

Dewalt is garbage they have not kept up with there competition at all. You can not replace air framing guns with gas on a production framing crew it's not what it's meant for. Every one should definetly have one. I use my hitachi gas lithiom ion 18 gauge and 16 gauge finish nailers there awesome. But I do commercial work I'm not going to carry hoses compresor through a hospital. If I was triming out houses allot would be done by air. As far as circular saws any one who has held a rockwell 315 in there hand knows the benefit of a powerful corded tool. And I use my cordless drills allot but when my guys can use corded tools they better be using them. Screw guns run at 4500 rpms cordless impacts run at 1500 cordless drills run at 800. It makes a big difference how many screws you put in in a 8 hour day. I was hanging board with a guy with a cordless drywall router. Hanging 12 foot 5/8 lids and watching this idiot rout cans. I was about to smack it out of his hands and kick him off the baker. Ridiculous ! You need to know when to use cordless and it's usually when you can't possibly plug in.


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