# Tile job goin sour, what to do ?



## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

Of course my first post will be out of my profession.....I got this 'jack-off all trades ' my wife hired to install a ceramic tile floor in her salon. I found out he was half the cost of the box store contractors and it is starting to show why. First problem he is trying to install 12 x 12 porc tile over an uneven wood substraight. There must be 3 different floors over those 100 yr old 5/4 boards. He removed the top layer of VCT and under that was some 3/8 ply. He just mortered over that and leveled as he went. Some of the changes in thickness are up to 1/2 " along a 4' area. The grout lines are heaving all over the place bc of uneveness. I even know not to try my hand at something that usually takes a few years to begin to get a clue what your doing. Anyhow the second thing that came up tonight is he came to an issue when he started to tile from the main floor into the bathroom. We relocated the door for the bathroom to an adjacent wall. The bath floor has 4 floors under it. The original 5/4, 3/4 hardwood (petrified), the linoleum with luan and finally the 3/8 ply w/vct. the main floor didnt have the linoleum with luan so the 2 levels are about 1/2" off. 

I sugested to install a granite threshold to offset the two levels abruptly. Unfortunately he has a full tile that is already set and grouted flush with the baseboard -he didnt remove that either, dumbass! The threshold is 4" and the gap to the set tile is about 1 1/2 ". Too small for a piece of tile. What would be the best fix for this small filler we need. Im pretty sure you cant fill that with grout and he says he cant cut a tile pice that small....get me out of this ...and away from this handy jack-off.


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## strathd (Jan 12, 2009)

Welcome.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

mendelectric said:


> Of course my first post will be out of my profession.....I got this 'jack-off all trades ' my wife hired to install a ceramic tile floor in her salon. I found out he was half the cost of the box store contractors and it is starting to show why. First problem he is trying to install 12 x 12 porc tile over an uneven wood substraight. There must be 3 different floors over those 100 yr old 5/4 boards. He removed the top layer of VCT and under that was some 3/8 ply. He just mortered over that and leveled as he went. Some of the changes in thickness are up to 1/2 " along a 4' area. The grout lines are heaving all over the place bc of uneveness. I even know not to try my hand at something that usually takes a few years to begin to get a clue what your doing. Anyhow the second thing that came up tonight is he came to an issue when he started to tile from the main floor into the bathroom. We relocated the door for the bathroom to an adjacent wall. The bath floor has 4 floors under it. The original 5/4, 3/4 hardwood (petrified), the linoleum with luan and finally the 3/8 ply w/vct. the main floor didnt have the linoleum with luan so the 2 levels are about 1/2" off.
> 
> I sugested to install a granite threshold to offset the two levels abruptly. Unfortunately he has a full tile that is already set and grouted flush with the baseboard -he didnt remove that either, dumbass! The threshold is 4" and the gap to the set tile is about 1 1/2 ". Too small for a piece of tile. What would be the best fix for this small filler we need. Im pretty sure you cant fill that with grout and he says he cant cut a tile pice that small....get me out of this ...and away from this handy jack-off.


First of all your wife and you should have been suspicious that his price was so cheap. If you ain't paid him to do the job then i would tell him to sort out the issue's. If i mess up a job and customer ain't happy i fix at my own cost. It sounds like the only fix is going to be a bodge fix. Maybe post some pictures of the area so we have better idea of how bad the problem is. 

Also if he cant cut a sliver of tile that small then he clearly don't have the proper tools to do the job also.


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

mendelectric,

Turn on your Private Messaging.


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## willworkforbeer (Mar 7, 2009)

You get what you pay for. Simple. Around here the going rate is $2.50 to $3.50 a sq ft for average work. I wont touch anything for less then $7. I wont touch questionable outcome. You have (had I should say) a job that wasnt possible to do right without a lot of starting over. Nobody could do that right without gettting the underlying stucture correct first. You knew that it sounds like. In a situation like this gettting to the point of laying tile is the real expense.


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

not sure why it is off, I dont see any options to turn it on or off.


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## RCPainting (Jan 29, 2006)

You can't pm until you have a certain # of posts, I think it is 15?


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## Ceramictec (Feb 14, 2008)

mendelectric said:


> I got this 'jack-off all trades ' my wife hired to install a ceramic tile floor in her salon.


isnt it "jack of" ? :laughing:


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

Maybe your missing the point ?
There is an underlying purpose to that typo
And its not about the substrate
Figure it out..:w00t:


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

> Maybe your missing the point ?
> There is an underlying purpose to that typo


So you are saying the not so handy handy man is handy afterall.......


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> So you are saying the not so handy handy man is handy afterall.......


 
he may be using both !


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

It sounds like your wife isn't getting what she wanted but is getting what she paid for. Expecting her hack to do a great job in a sh*t building is cheating both the hack and your wife.


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

It sounds like the threshold is the least of your worries... 

Why is 1 1/2" gap too small for tile? I'm guessing he's cutting with a score & break? Tell him to take some tile to the local Lowes and have them cut on their wet saw to the width you need. 

Then take him out back and beat the sh** out of him for setting tile directly to a wood substrate. Why wasn't the floor taken down to the subfloor?

I hate to say what you probably already know, but that mess is going to be giving you fits for years to come.


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

ChrWright said:


> It sounds like the threshold is the least of your worries...
> 
> Why is 1 1/2" gap too small for tile? I'm guessing he's cutting with a score & break? Tell him to take some tile to the local Lowes and have them cut on their wet saw to the width you need.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the interest.
3/8 ply was under the VCT... glued and ring nailed,
woulda been impossible to demo that.

Is the ply not a good base for tile ? 

Also, he didnt remove the adhesive that was used for the VCT, will that have any effect on the thinset?

On the third question related to the gap, he is using a wet saw, guess hes not a total hack, but he only said he couldnt cut pieces that thin, maybe he just never tried. 

He just called me from the job, and hes finished for the night. He decided to leave the threshold area for tomorrow night and asked me to get a wider threshold, maybe a 6"..? is that even available? I didnt see those at Lowes. BTW, believe it or not the wall that we moved the door to is 4 1/2" at the top and 6" at the bottom


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

mendelectric said:


> Thanks for the interest.
> 3/8 ply was under the VCT... glued and ring nailed,
> woulda been impossible to demo that.
> 
> ...


I DO NOT want to be "that guy" sh**ing all over a job you're paying good money for... But from the sound of it, he doesn't have any business installing tile. 

What kind of threshold are you looking for? Stone?

The door frame is a different width from top to bottom? Why so far off?


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

ChrWright said:


> I DO NOT want to be "that guy" sh**ing all over a job you're paying good money for... But from the sound of it, he doesn't have any business installing tile.
> 
> What kind of threshold are you looking for? Stone?
> 
> The door frame is a different width from top to bottom? Why so far off?


 
I am already 'that guy'. Got the black stone threshold over at Lowes but only in 4"


Walls are from the 20s so were heavy stud and plasterboard /rockboard. Many adjustments made over the years to that wall with plumbing in and out and the like. Not sure how the wall ended up like this but I need to deal with what I have. Not sure what the trim will look like, with flush at bottom and 1" gap at the top... uck. Whats your take on that ? 
Cant cut a filler that looks like a doorstop. Only choice to add a 1" extension jamb and caulk the gap in the back ?

I just repaired the joists underneath that wall. After I cut the opening for the new door i saw a hole through the plate like it was used for a return plenum. To my dismay, I also saw 12" of the floor joist below cut completely through which is directly above the cast main sewer line. Someone added this sink drain and tapped the main, but decided to cut the 15' joist out of their path (clueless bitches) This place has seen its share of hacks in the past. Told the wife to burn this POS down years ago, I hate working in there, especially doing my own trade.
Too bad she is still sucking...a profit :shutup:


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

mendelectric said:


> Of course my first post will be out of my profession.....I got this 'jack-off all trades ' *my wife hired to install a ceramic tile floor in her salon. I found out he was half the cost of the box store contractors and it is starting to show why*. First problem he is trying to install 12 x 12 porc tile over an uneven wood substraight. There must be 3 different floors over those 100 yr old 5/4 boards.* He removed the top layer of VCT and under that was some 3/8 ply. He just mortered over that and leveled as he went*. Some of the changes in thickness are up to 1/2 " along a 4' area. The grout lines are heaving all over the place bc of uneveness. I even know not to try my hand at something that usually takes a few years to begin to get a clue what your doing. Anyhow the second thing that came up tonight is he came to an issue when he started to tile from the main floor into the bathroom. We relocated the door for the bathroom to an adjacent wall. The bath floor has 4 floors under it. The original 5/4, 3/4 hardwood (petrified), the linoleum with luan and finally the 3/8 ply w/vct. the main floor didnt have the linoleum with luan so the 2 levels are about 1/2" off.
> 
> I sugested to install a granite threshold to offset the two levels abruptly. Unfortunately he has a full tile that is already set and grouted flush with the baseboard -he didnt remove that either, dumbass! The threshold is 4" and the gap to the set tile is about 1 1/2 ". Too small for a piece of tile. What would be the best fix for this small filler we need. Im pretty sure you cant fill that with grout and he says he cant cut a tile pice that small....get me out of this ...and away from this handy jack-off.


Your wife hired a hack and this is what you get.

You cannot apply thinset directly to the plywood subfloor, he should have installed a cementious backer board.

I would have the guy leave as he doesn't know what he is doing and hire someone else off of craigslist to come fix the mess you have.


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

bwalley said:


> Your wife hired a hack and this is what you get.
> 
> You cannot apply thinset directly to the plywood subfloor, he should have installed a cementious backer board.
> 
> I would have the guy leave as he doesn't know what he is doing and hire someone else off of craigslist to come fix the mess you have.


Thanks for the optomistic point of view, but the obvious is already beyond us. 'Jack-off' is finished with the entire 700sf floor. Grout is done. The floor is placed... set......match..were done -we lost. Just glad it wasnt in our home as this $$it woulda sent me over the edge !

So I am trying to get this threshold thing done so this guy can be GONE ! If you have any other constructive comments to add I would be honored to hear your advice.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

mendelectric said:


> Thanks for the optomistic point of view, but the obvious is already beyond us. 'Jack-off' is finished with the entire 700sf floor. Grout is done. The floor is placed... set......match..were done -we lost. Just glad it wasnt in our home as this $$it woulda sent me over the edge !
> 
> *So I am trying to get this threshold thing done so this guy can be GONE ! If you have any other constructive comments to add I would be honored to hear your advice*.


What is the difference in height on the 2 floors?

Can you post a picture of where the threshhold goes, it might help me.


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

mendelectric said:


> ...Walls are from the 20s so were heavy stud and plasterboard /rockboard. Many adjustments made over the years to that wall with plumbing in and out and the like. Not sure how the wall ended up like this but I need to deal with what I have. Not sure what the trim will look like, with flush at bottom and 1" gap at the top... uck. Whats your take on that ?
> Cant cut a filler that looks like a doorstop. Only choice to add a 1" extension jamb and caulk the gap in the back ?


One option is to rip your extension jamb to a wedge to fit the wall width. Hopefully you have at least one wall face that's close to plumb (and hopefully that's the hinge side).

Another option is to rip your extension jamb to the widest thickness of the wall (as you described) and then rip a wedge to bridge the gap behind the casing on both sides. This will probably look better--just clamp a 1x over a 2x4/2x6 and rip it by hand with a circular saw (set to just beyond the thickness of the 1x).


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## JumboJack (Aug 14, 2007)

I feel for the OP...But like many have said you get what you pay for...I can only hope the sub floor is on the stiff side.Because a salon will get a good amount of foot traffic.The fact that the tile is directly on they plywood is bad enough.If it has any bounce to it those tiles will not stay where they where put...


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

JumboJack said:


> I feel for the OP...But like many have said you get what you pay for...I can only hope the sub floor is on the stiff side.Because a salon will get a good amount of foot traffic.The fact that the tile is directly on they plywood is bad enough.If it has any bounce to it those tiles will not stay where they where put...


I don't think there's any helping the floor at this point. :sad:

One of my favorite quotes on the subject:

_It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money -- that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot -- it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.
-John Ruskin

_That's a big bummer when you'll be having to deal with it and goober hand-job won't be around past the weekend. 

At least she's makin' money! :thumbsup:

I have a client with a day care I've been trying to talk into burning her building down for years (sans children of course!). FIVE sump pumps in a finished lower lever that floods on a cloudy day--but she keeps vacuuming it up and cashing the checks.


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

All this input and still no one has asked if the floor structure is suitable for a tile installation to begin with.

Does the floor meet the required deflection criteria to support a tile installation?

Are the floor joists of suitable size?
Are the floor joists of a suitable spacing?
Are the joist spans within suitable distances?

I very much doubt the floor should have tile on it to begin with, most buildings of that vintage won't meet the necessary criteria.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

oh come on joist height, span... jeez Bud you would think this is a professional install, oh wait...:shifty:


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

Bud Cline said:


> All this input and still no one has asked if the floor structure is suitable for a tile installation to begin with.
> 
> Does the floor meet the required deflection criteria to support a tile installation?
> 
> ...


I agree, but what's the point in asking that now? The bomb's already gone off.

I'm sure it's a soup sandwich top to bottom front to back.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

yah but he only charged me 3.00 per sq ft. :thumbup::clap::blink::sad:


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## JumboJack (Aug 14, 2007)

Bud Cline said:


> All this input and still no one has asked if the floor structure is suitable for a tile installation to begin with.
> 
> Does the floor meet the required deflection criteria to support a tile installation?
> 
> ...


I agree with Chrwright.I thought it was a given the the substrate was not suitable...


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

The point in asking those questions now is to determine if all the recent improvements should be removed and more suitable improvements should be installed. This must be interfering with the business. How long can this BS go on? Get it done right and get it over with.

The point in asking those questions now is also to beat someone over their head for being so cheap. There is a place in the world of repairdom for a handyman but this isn't the place.

It amazes me the number of people that do dumb crap like this and when things begin to crumble that's when they seek help from the Internet. I don't understand why people don't think to research these things BEFORE they dump funds into a predicable failure.:whistling


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Who wants some action on the over/under (days) for how long it takes the grout to start cracking after it's finished? :whistling (if it starts _before_ it's all finished, all bets are off) :w00t:


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

Bud Cline said:


> The point in asking those questions now is to determine if all the recent improvements should be removed and more suitable improvements should be installed. This must be interfering with the business. How long can this BS go on? Get it done right and get it over with.
> 
> The point in asking those questions now is also to beat someone over their head for being so cheap. There is a place in the world of repairdom for a handyman but this isn't the place.
> 
> It amazes me the number of people that do dumb crap like this and when things begin to crumble that's when they seek help from the Internet. I don't understand why people don't think to research these things BEFORE they dump funds into a predicable failure.:whistling


Preaching to the choir... 

I'll take the man at his word. It's his wife's mess and he's just doing the best he can to deal with it. 

Tear it out? 

The best advice in the world--yes.

Will it happen---:no:


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## JumboJack (Aug 14, 2007)

Bud Cline said:


> The point in asking those questions now is to determine if all the recent improvements should be removed and more suitable improvements should be installed. This must be interfering with the business. How long can this BS go on? Get it done right and get it over with.
> 
> The point in asking those questions now is also to beat someone over their head for being so cheap. There is a place in the world of repairdom for a handyman but this isn't the place.
> 
> It amazes me the number of people that do dumb crap like this and when things begin to crumble that's when they seek help from the Internet. I don't understand why people don't think to research these things BEFORE they dump funds into a predicable failure.:whistling


No no no no..Logic is not allowed in these kind of threads..Please move along...:laughing:

I don't think tearing it out and doing it right is an option at this juncture.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> *All this input and still no one has asked if the floor structure is suitable for a tile installation to begin with.*
> 
> Does the floor meet the required deflection criteria to support a tile installation?
> 
> ...


I told you that thinset should not be put on a wood subfloor, that is why I recommended tearing it out and putting in the proper subfloor, but you didn't like that idea, you were worried about the threshhold.

You are going to have a lot of deflection and the tile floor will fail, then you can do it again, hopefully the right way this time.

Without knowing how the house was built I can't answer your structural questions and I am not a P.E.


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

> Preaching to the choir...


Oh how well I know, I'm real familiar with that scenario. The thing is...I am well aware that there are many lurkers out there that will benefit from the information they see here and some may even be saved from themselves in the future. Any tidbit of legitimate information is worth posting over and over and over again. 

Successful ceramic tile installations are not as easy as the home centers would have everyone believe. There can be a lot of knowledge needed to installing a successful tile floor that will last for decades.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

Ceramictec said:


> isnt it "jack of" ? :laughing:


No "Jack Off" is the right term for the hack that did the floor.

One thing the salon owner may want to consider is if the tile floor was not installed properly and a client or employee trips on it for whatever reason (out of level, excessive lippage, loose tile, etc.) they now know it is a substandard job, yet the chose to leave it down anyway.

What are they going to do when granny trips and falls and breaks her hip and ends up in a wheel chair?


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

The business operator should probably check with their Liability Insurance carrier to see if any personal and bodily injury claims will be honored under the circumstances. Sure hate to see them end up in court and the other side have access to this thread. Talk about a smoking gun. This is it.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> The business operator should probably check with their Liability Insurance carrier to see if any personal and bodily injury claims will be honored under the circumstances. Sure hate to see them end up in court and the other side have access to this thread. Talk about a smoking gun. This is it.


Even if the liability insuarnce will pay the claim, he knows a substandard job was done, but is willing to leave it down, which if the P.I. attorney is any good will find out, and will use it to get more money and then the insurance company may deny coverage.

It is one thing to allow hack work to be done in a private residence, it is another to allow it to be done in a commercial setting that has the public in.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

:sweatdrop: this is a commercial job where the public will have access? :blink:


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

bwalley said:


> I told you that thinset should not be put on a wood subfloor, that is why I recommended tearing it out and putting in the proper subfloor, but you didn't like that idea, you were worried about the threshhold.
> 
> You are going to have a lot of deflection and the tile floor will fail, then you can do it again, hopefully the right way this time.
> 
> Without knowing how the house was built I can't answer your structural questions and I am not a P.E.


 
Thinset is fine on a wood subfloor as long as it's stiff and you use a pva or latex bonding agent. Before Tile backer board/Cement board/ditra/aqua tuff and so on was about we always used to tile directly on top of the ply and them tiles are still down to this date. A lot of tilers i know in the UK still tile directly to wood subfloors and plasterboard. But it's like anything. If the preparation is not done, then you will have problems no mater what products you use.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Thinset is fine on a wood subfloor as long as it's stiff and you use a pva or latex bonding agent. Before Tile backer board/Cement board/ditra/aqua tuff and so on was about we always used to tile directly on top of the ply and them tiles are still down to this date. A lot of tilers i know in the UK still tile directly to wood subfloors and plasterboard. But it's like anything. If the preparation is not done, then you will have problems no mater what products you use.


It was always my understanding you should never have direct conact with non treated wood and masonry.

I doubt the plywood was treated, but even if it was a cementious backer board should have been glued and screwed to the wood subfloor.

I seriously doubt he guy who installed this job did much if any preperation of the wood subfloor.


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> All this input and still no one has asked if the floor structure is suitable for a tile installation to begin with.
> 
> Does the floor meet the required deflection criteria to support a tile installation?
> 
> ...


I believe the floor structure is sound. The joist are real 2 x 8 at 16 oc and about 15' span from central bearing beam. The floor as I revealed earlier in the post has minimal 3 floor systems on it. 5/4 T&G, 3/4 petrified HW and 3/8 ply substrate. 1/3 of the floor had vinyl w/luan under the ply hence the uneven problem. Thanks for bringing the class back on subject Bud:clap:.


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

ChrWright said:


> Preaching to the choir...
> 
> I'll take the man at his word. It's his wife's mess and he's just doing the best he can to deal with it.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the support Chris, I was not aware of the project status until AFTER the guy started the first night. 
The story started something like this.......

I get a frantic call in the middle of the day 
to get over to the shop b/c the tile is being delivered
in 30 minutes....woot ? Im like wtf you mean tile? Then she drops the bomb that she hired this nice guy to install it....im like....*WHAT ???*
So I go over to the shop and the guy is there.
While discussing the job with him when the tile was delivered he assured me he had done many tile floors and they all turned out great!....sound 
familiar? That bell rang hard in my head that evening. Then I bitched my wife out for not discussing this with me. 
What happened was she became aggrevated with me b/c 
I wanted more time to plan. Shes not one to do much planning, she thinks shes wasting time.....
We had many conversations about the need to replace the delapidated 12 yr old VCT and *I repeatedly told her not to do anything untill I could get more info on the right direction to take*. She eventually caved when she got 3 different prices on the what she thought was identical scope projects. The low baller was this handy dandy fella who is friends with one of her tenants. He boasted a 1k pricetag for labor, it seemed to cheap compared to the 2-3K the box stores quoted her.
I figured she was just doing her normal..._'I can get this done myself '_ bit
that usually follows with _'you could probably do that job'_ crap.
I wasnt falling for it this time.
I knew this place was a ****storm waiting to happen ! I was there when the first moron placed the 3/8 ply right over the 2 different floor types. That is another sad day I'd rather not discuss.

So...as you all may already know, sometimes its easier to keep your mouth shut, sit back, and see what sticks to the wall !
Now Im telling her the ole " I told you so' speach and shes getting really hot! Im just gonna suck this one up and leave it that....before the atty's start ringing my phone.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

mendelectric said:


> T
> So...as you all may already know, sometimes its easier to keep your mouth shut, sit back, and see what sticks to the wall !
> Now Im telling her the ole " I told you so' speach and shes getting really hot! *Im just gonna suck this one up and leave it that....before the atty's start ringing my phone*.


If I was you I would just forget about pointing out the mistake your wife made anymore, or it may be a divorce attorney you hear from.

You may want to at some time over a weekend when the shop is closed, have the flooring redone properly as a present to your wife.


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

bwalley said:


> If I was you I would just forget about pointing out the mistake your wife made anymore, or it may be a divorce attorney you hear from.
> 
> You may want to at some time over a weekend when the shop is closed, have the flooring redone properly as a present to your wife.


Wow, thats a very amiable suggestion. I may decide to do that...if I can find the extra 6k in my sock drawer on xmas morning that is. I salute you bwalley :thumbsup:


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## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

Buy her jewelry... she'll appreciate it more, and you'll spend less... :thumbsup:


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## HusqyPro (Aug 3, 2009)

Got insurance? :whistling


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

ChrWright said:


> Buy her jewelry... she'll appreciate it more, and you'll spend less... :thumbsup:


OMG, you wouldnt expect this hohu could do 1 more thing right...
I just saw the job he did on the threshold..
We got em a 6" and he installed it today.
To make up for the 1/2 difference in floors I figured he would just install the thing in the doorway and there would be a little less of a drop off on 1 side maybe 3/8"...instead he installed the fu**in thing at an angle lower on the low side up to the high side...OMFG this guy is a spankmonkey!

When things go bad.........:furious:


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Come on you know we need some pics lol


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Come on you know we need some pics lol


 
I think the wife may get more annoyed if I start posting pictures of this debacle. It wouldnt serve any purpose except rubbing her indiscretions in her face....and anywhere else I may feel fit !


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

> I believe the floor structure is sound.


*YOU* believe the floor structure is sound. And what is your training and background in determining this?

I'm afraid I have some more bad news for YOU my friend. The 2X8's are bad news and the span if you are correct about that is even _badder_ news.

A floor structure used for a ceramic tile installation requires a deflection rating of L/360. Your floor with species unknown, full 2" X 8" joists, and a 15 foot span comes up to L/169. The materials covering the joists mean little in this calculation. I'll bet that bounces like a boxing ring when you walk on it.

OH WELL! Too late now.


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Still taking bets :whistling








































sorry mendel...:laughing: on the bright side, you've got a hell of a pass on any future f/u's _you_ make ... unless your wife is capable of turning this all around to be _your_ fault, as some of the fairer of our species are quite capable of doing :shifty:


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> *YOU* believe the floor structure is sound. And what is your training and background in determining this?
> 
> I'm afraid I have some more bad news for YOU my friend. The 2X8's are bad news and the span if you are correct about that is even _badder_ news.
> 
> ...


 
Sorry Bud,
You are being very helpful but I am afraid I misled you. I only guessed at the length of the floor joists. I just measured them and they are only 12'. Maybe that will help the calculation get within the requirements. Please recalc and let me know ?
Thanks x 10


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

J F said:


> Still taking bets :whistling
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your right, - but not to sound like a primadonna- My F/U 's are few and far between. I am usually anal about my research if I dont know exactly how to do something. This is a good thing but here it turned out to be a crippling characteristic, because the long delay meant it got done out of frustration and need. All in all if she or I remember this when a F/U does come up, I will have a few extra bullets in the chamber to empty.
Thanx for the comment !

ps; no big deal but how did you find my name ? I dont remember posting it anywhere


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

:blink: look at your user name :w00t:


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

mendelectric said:


> ps; no big deal but how did you find my name ? I dont remember posting it anywhere


see? :shifty:


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

hmmmm, you assumed this from my username, why not just Mend ?


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

:shifty:.....


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## mendelectric (Aug 14, 2009)

J F said:


> :shifty:.....


You are hilarious !
Where you get these neat pics from?...heheheh, but I just googled myself and its all there, man I cant fathom what else is lurking in cyberspace about little ole me....peace


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)




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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

You are giving me too much credit though, I didn't google, just thought mendel "fit" :laughing: lucky guess, peace


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## JumboJack (Aug 14, 2007)

This is without knowing all the particulars but should be pretty close.


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