# cabinets - Pro Classic



## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

Getting ready to paint some interior cabinets. Hollow doors and very inexpensive framing.

2 or 3 of the doors have been painted by previous owner, heavy brush marks.

There's no budget for me to do any kind of extensive work on them and no sprayer will be used. Out of all the paints we bought, the only good paint I could talk the HO into was prep rite classic primer and pro classic paint for the cabinets.

In some of the posts here, i think someone said PC goes on thin and tends to run because of self leveling properties?

Haven't decided whether to roll on and brush out or roll on with a short nap and leave it with that type of finish to hide flaws.

Comments and suggestions welcome. Keep in mind that there will not be any extensive prep. No skimming the brushed doors. A good sanding and maybe brush cross grain from the existing brush marks, that's about it.


----------



## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

Why do the customers have any say about what BRAND of materials you use on a job that you have to put your name on?

I would let them pick COLOR ONLY.

If they can't afford decent paint or even proper prep...then I would roll it and forget it.


----------



## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

send_it_all said:


> Why do the customers have any say about what BRAND of materials you use on a job that you have to put your name on?
> 
> I would let them pick COLOR ONLY.
> 
> If they can't afford decent paint or even proper prep...then I would roll it and forget it.


Sometimes I don't have the power to "let" the customer do anything. Specially when they are GC'ing their own job.

It's either co-operate or walk. Can't afford to walk at this time. Anyway, about the pro-classic paint......went with satin to further mute imperfections.


----------



## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

That would be frustrating for me if the customers were like that. I haven't run into that before. I carry a full color chart (fan) from Dunn. I give it to the customer to hold onto for several days before I need paint so they can pick a color. I usually choose what type of primer and what level of sheen I feel is right for the application...anyway, I'm sure you did the best you could with what you had to work with.


----------



## furiousstyles (May 19, 2006)

I have used the pro-classic{waterborn} on cabinets before. While they looked pretty good, the color didnt hold up well to typical kitchen cleaning agents,{a yellow and also base white}. Everytime I cleaned em some of the color came off. good thing they were my cabinets.


----------



## Traditions (Aug 22, 2006)

I'm getting ready to do some interior cabinets also. I always use proclassic. Great results. However, I always spray. On these, i will not be able to spray. Is the best procedure to roll on and tip off with a brush?


----------



## Richard (May 21, 2006)

I'm at the cabinet stage tomorrow myself. Pro Classic Latex. I'm rolling them for sure. I picked up a nice mohair nap. 

Joe, you've seen my kitchen cabinet post I'm sure. That was pro classic latex.

I'm not so sure I would have gotten satin since the pro classic already has less sheen than most, but you did it for a reason 

...and I just love when HO's are calling the shots, or think they are. It cracks me up even more when they try and tell you how long everything should take. :no: 

guess we'll both be posting some cabinet pics soon  

good luck man


----------



## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Yes, the stuff looks good, but has a learning curve similar to Ben Moore's waterborne Satin Impervo. Fairly thin, can run if you apply to heavy. Roll out with a short napped mohair, tip off as usual. After you lay it on, and finish it, don't try to go back and touch it again; it sets up pretty damn quick. Do a good job on the first application and you'll be fine. Might require 2 coats until you get used to it.


----------



## gary lee (Feb 17, 2007)

Like Pro I have found that the product sets pretty fast so brush, roll, whatever, but leave it alone once you leave an area. I also felt that it had a steep learning curve when first using it.

gary


----------



## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

Thanks guys. PWG nailed it.

I did mention that the HO is a friend. We've talked about working for friends, so that's where the snags come into play. He knows I've named him Mrcantyoujust. :thumbup: 

Normally, I can roll and lay it off, leaving a nearly smooth finish. I'm worried about the learning curve and the low, low humidity. Since I don't use this paint often, I wonder about the leveling properties if brushed.
I'm considering a rolled finish. To make it look good the paint gets rolled on and just as the air gets to it, you lay it off again with the roller to make finish look like it was sprayed. Either way I go, the quick set up is what I'm most worried about. I'll follow up after they're done.

Or, I'll be back asking how to fix it.

Thanks again.


----------



## Richard (May 21, 2006)

hey joe

the classic does set up super fast...you could always get a scrap piece of wood and get a feel for it

like the others have said, you can't go back with this paint...it doesn't take well to the roll and then lay it off technique

I was on a job with preprimed baseboard, my carpenter was wondering what the hell was wrong with the paint as he was applying it to the baseboard (I was busy). I had him stop and realized he was moving like a snail and dry brushing it. 

My final advice...practice on something, load up with a good amount of paint, and brush or roll fast...

good luck


----------



## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

I just thought of something. Underbody.

Too late for that, but this is where underbody is very, very useful.

I'm off for a couple days and then have to do a couple other projects before the cabs.


----------



## Tommy Boy (Mar 21, 2007)

You might want to use some Latex Xtender with the ProClassic. It will flow out better and give you a nicer finish.


----------



## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

Sorry I didn't follow up sooner.

The Pro-Classic experience was anti-climatic. I was looking for leveling properties, but I don't think Pro-Classic has anything special in that area.

It went on thin, I started with a mohair roller, but switched to the mini roller that looks like a white dove. It gave a smaller stipple than the mohair.

Only 11 cab. doors. removed, saved hardware. stacked doors on table and sanded all, both sides. Dusted each one and stacked on floor, cleaned the table. Stacked on table again, one at a time, wiped with damp cloth and prime one side. Dried, primed other side. Same procedure for each coat of paint using hands to make sure they were smooth. Backs, 3x. Front's 2x and applied 3'd coat to the fronts after they were hung again. doors light green, frames and side walls dark green. (filled and sanded small holes before all this)

Since the doors and other areas were small, no problems with drying time. Quick drying time also assisted in a smooth finish.

Job has been done for over a week. 

Another "friend" lost. Gypped me on the last payment. Started bringing in dishes while I was trying to paint his cabinets and brought in the community maintenence crew to change the insinkerator and lights in the middle of my work area, while I was working. I got them out of there, but not before they took down my lighting and ceiling fan.

when I give someone 3000 worth of work for 1500, I'd hope they would recognize it, but he didn't. Usual crap, but gypping me at the end is not acceptable. I'm, not going to tell you ALL the work I did, I don't want to get slapped for giving away that much, but this was part of the panelling skim, textured paper hanging and tons of repairs to a 30 yr. old mobile home that was never maintained. This was only the lr, dr and kitchen area. 

Oh well, I want him to get another painter to strip the wall paper and repaint his bathrooms. Then maybe he will know exactly how much I gifted him. I really did it for his 98 yr. old mother who is worried sick about this move. She makes great lasagna.


----------



## Jethroe (Jan 27, 2007)

*Pro-Classic Oil or Water?*

Its been a while on a remodel cabinet job myself. But I am looking at doing the same thing on the set of cabinets In the kitchen of the house I am on now. I told the HO that it would be best toTSP everything then to sand them down not necessarily stripping just getting past the laquer finish and clean enough to put on the primer, then going with the Pro-Classic Oil or water?? which is the best over pre-stained wood work? I would say oil-based, and spray with a fine tip, air asssit would be nice but don't have one. I am going to spray them inside and out...


----------



## gary lee (Feb 17, 2007)

Jethroe to me the most important thing would be a bonding primer. With cabinets I have always used Xim for my first coat and then followed with a good latex or oil top coat.

Gary


----------



## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

Jethroe said:


> Its been a while on a remodel cabinet job myself. But I am looking at doing the same thing on the set of cabinets In the kitchen of the house I am on now. I told the HO that it would be best toTSP everything then to sand them down not necessarily stripping just getting past the laquer finish and clean enough to put on the primer, then going with the Pro-Classic Oil or water?? which is the best over pre-stained wood work? I would say oil-based, and spray with a fine tip, air asssit would be nice but don't have one. I am going to spray them inside and out...


I used prep-rite classic primer from SW, over dark wood or something that resembles wood. Waterbased. The pro-classic paint was water base also. As paintguy mentioned, SW sheens are a step back from the standard. If you want semi-gloss finish, buy gloss.


----------

