# Extending 4" studs to 5 1/2"



## Danno6102 (May 31, 2007)

I have an old house built in 1900 I am remodeling. I am extending the old true 4" studs out to 5 1/2" for R-19 insulation. What would be the best & most efficient, both time & energy, way to do this?

My thoughts, 
1. Shim 1 1/2" strips to the face of the studs & nail in every foot or so. Slow! & I wonder about the drywall eventually pulling the nails & strips away from the old studs.

2. Scab 2x4 to the side of the existing studs. Concerned about the insulation cavity. There would be a pocket behind the new stud.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan


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## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

I would use #1 . Angle the nails and throw in some screws or glue


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## strathd (Jan 12, 2009)

Those old native timber walls are rarely straight. I use method #2. I also plumb each corner stud first then run a string line end to end. One about a ft. from the bottom and one about a ft. from the top. The string lines are reference points for the rest of the sistered studs.

Also check the wall to see if it's bowed in the middle to the inside. If it is you will want to cheat your end studs in more 1/4" or 1/2" or whatever it takes to accomadate the bow, if using 2x6.


I also use 2x6 when possible (more wood to nail to and not as flimsy). 

Insulate the cavity with rips first. Then insulate the rest.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

strathd said:


> Those old native timber walls are never straight. I use method #2. I also plumb each corner stud first then run a string line end to end. One about a ft. from the bottom and one about a ft. from the top. The string lines are reference points for the rest of the sistered studs.
> 
> Insulate the cavity with rips first. Then insulate the rest.


I'll second that.


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

Greg Di said:


> I'll second that.


 I will third that but add insulate with sprayed cellulose or foam


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## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

I missed the part about how crooked the walls are


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Get some 2 x 6 and rip 1 1/2" strips from it. Double nail every 16" and angle the nails away from each other. The old studs will likely be very hard by now. If you feel like you need more assurance, then use some construction adhesive. Not going to go anywhere.


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## strathd (Jan 12, 2009)

knucklehead said:


> I missed the part about how crooked the walls are


I have found very few native timber walls that were straight or plumb in this part of the country Knucklehead. If they are straight method #1 is cool. :thumbsup: I would'nt chance it in a kitchen though.


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

Rigid board and insulation on top of that


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

strathd said:


> Those old native timber walls are rarely straight. I use method #2. I also plumb each corner stud first then run a string line end to end. One about a ft. from the bottom and one about a ft. from the top. The string lines are reference points for the rest of the sistered studs.
> quote]
> 
> 
> That is the best way. I would use either a 2x4 or 2x6 and then have the wall insulated with a blown-in blanket system with chopped fiber glass.


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

I can't believe no one has suggested a board stretcher yet.

I agree with what strathd said, that's how I've had to deal with my old farm house.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I wonder how good the layout in in this old place. How bout going another 2 1/2 inches and build a new 2x4 studwall in front of it. You could put R 19 (or more) in that and know that the layout is good (to help with insulating) and walls will be straight.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Here: Sorry I have the other side rocked. This wall was orginally an exterior wall of my old farm house. Now this wall will have cabinets on the side that is rocked (22'), this side will get ply and then hand paneled walls.
. It took 2 tries to get it darn close to plumb, flush, parallel and level.

I also had 3 string lines run while I did this, 2', 4' and 6'. Hit both corners first and went from there.


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## Danno6102 (May 31, 2007)

Ok, sounds like method #2 is what I'll do. That's what I did with method #1 when I tried it is ran three strings. a foot from top & bottom & one in the middle. The shimming is what takes so damn long. Not in the kitchen. That part of the house was torn down & I reframed the whole thing, so we have all new 2x6 studs there.

Warner, my house looks exactly like that. Right down to the raccoon piss stained, petrified wood studs. Built in 1900-ish.

Thanks for all the input!

Dan


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Hey, that is just water stains from when it was the exterior wall. My hoiuse has studs and then siding nailed to the studs, no kind of sheeting at all.


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

Sistering makes insulating difficult. Another option is to just shim the wall flat with drywall shims and ply rips with R-13 in the old stud bays, then add 1-1/2" foamboard (R 7.5) and strapping run horizontally. This gives you a total of R 20.5 and minimizes thermal bridging.

I use the InsulPink Basement Finishing System for this (not just for basements anymore):


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

use 16' 2x4's and run them horizontally at 24" intervals-pull a string the width then shim and shoot. Or, just shoot the 2x4's on top of the existing old lumber-if you're not pressing hard with the gun, it's likely you won't have as much waviness as the original wall-it is an old house...leave the character


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

I can't believe you can run your framing horizontally over vertical. Adding foam to that is a major fire hazzard. No way we could get away with that here. Each stud cavity must be isolated from the adjacent cavity.


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

thom said:


> I can't believe you can run your framing horizontally over vertical. Adding foam to that is a major fire hazzard. No way we could get away with that here. Each stud cavity must be isolated from the adjacent cavity.


How is it any different than using foamboard exterior sheathing? I do seal every stud bay with PL300.

Note: the foam board is continuous with seams sealed, the furring is in dados--flush with the face of the InsulPink board--but with continuous XPS behind the furring.


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