# Who can tell me this



## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

oops


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## Ponsse (Dec 12, 2007)

MO-AMPS said:


> Well that notch is completely off I really don't think Carlton use that for accurate drywall dept it just can't be
> 
> I know i am not the only one has this problem ,if you use that notch your box will be completely off, then you have to use ext. to be code compliance in regards to combustible material


 
NEC allows a box to be set back 1/4 inch in noncombustible materials such as drywall. The notch is 3/8 inch. 1/2 inch drywall would then have the box set back 1/8 inch. 5/8 drywall on the ceiling would have the box set back 1/4 inch. If you have tongue and groove or any other combustible wall, then you would use the lines on the box to set the proper depth since it must be flush. Anyways, that's how I see it.


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## gregj (Jul 31, 2006)

Magnettica said:


> I lost my hammer so I have to use the screws. :laughing:


Screws? I thought electricians used tape.


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

gregj said:


> Screws? I thought electricians used tape.


Screws for the boxes and tape to hold the wire within 12" of the box. :whistling


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## MO-AMPS (Jan 16, 2007)

Ponsse said:


> NEC allows a box to be set back 1/4 inch in noncombustible materials such as drywall. The notch is 3/8 inch. 1/2 inch drywall would then have the box set back 1/8 inch. 5/8 drywall on the ceiling would have the box set back 1/4 inch. If you have tongue and groove or any other combustible wall, then you would use the lines on the box to set the proper depth since it must be flush. Anyways, that's how I see it.


 
that seem logical.....now that being said if i go by that notch I'll never achieve a perfect look,meaning around the cut's of the device cover it won't seat perfectly inall around and that makes my trim-out life miserable


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## Ponsse (Dec 12, 2007)

MO-AMPS said:


> that seem logical.....now that being said if i go by that notch I'll never achieve a perfect look,meaning around the cut's of the device cover it won't seat perfectly inall around and that makes my trim-out life miserable


 
I don't understand what you mean. The plaster ears on the receptacle fit up against the drywall to set the proper depth of the rec.. I think I'm missing something that you're saying.


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## dlcj (Oct 1, 2007)

its better if the boxes are a little deep rather than shallow. the screws in the recep will always reach. If its too shallow the face plate want pull tight to wall and it cant be fixed. just find out whats going on the wall and make sure the boxes are at that depth or little less and itll be fine.


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

dlcj said:


> its better if the boxes are a little deep rather than shallow. the screws in the recep will always reach. If its too shallow the face plate want pull tight to wall and it cant be fixed. just find out whats going on the wall and make sure the boxes are at that depth or little less and itll be fine.


Actually, the depth of the box by code shall be recessed no more than 1/4" from the finished surface.


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## dlcj (Oct 1, 2007)

I was talking like 1/8-1/4"
:thumbsup:


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## acrwc10 (Dec 10, 2006)

gregj said:


> Screws? I thought electricians used tape.


Thats just to hold the box while the glue drys. They fall off the stud otherwise. :shutup:

As far as heights of boxes they should be the same threw-out in other words if you have your receptacles at 18" AFF they should all be 18" AFF. :whistling

I have seen guys set switches at 48 5/8" down from the top plate on 8' ceilings so when the rock is hung the top of the box is below the seam and only the sides and bottom need to be cut out. The problem with this method is the box gets filled with taping mud, and I haven't seen a house in 4 years that has anything less then 9 ft. ceilings


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

The drywall guys will be really happy if you keep your switch boxes out of the joints in the rock. I've enjoyed some free beers doing that. :clap:


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## CNC (Mar 29, 2006)

i feel like i have wasted a few minutes of my life on the thread. but well worth it. 
PS, where do i put a ground screw on those blue plastic carlon boxes? They never seem to build them into the box, so i have to add them!


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

CNC said:


> i feel like i have wasted a few minutes of my life on the thread. but well worth it.
> PS, where do i put a ground screw on those blue plastic carlon boxes? They never seem to build them into the box, so i have to add them!


Right in the back just like a metal box. But remember, a drywall screw or sheet metal screw won't pass inspection. You need two treads in contact with the plastic. :laughing:


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## dlcj (Oct 1, 2007)

jrclen said:


> The drywall guys will be really happy if you keep your switch boxes out of the joints in the rock. I've enjoyed some free beers doing that. :clap:


we also try to predict where the mud joints will be and not put a box there. Or within 12" of a corner or finnished opening. Especially when we done the drywall ourselves too.


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## mdcorreia (May 21, 2006)

MO-AMPS said:


> I've been doing resi for quite a while,but hey i got a question that for the life of me no one can answer
> 
> What is the purpose of the notch on the side of a plastic new constr. box any of them
> 
> ...


Use metal boxes like many others!


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## mdcorreia (May 21, 2006)

Magnettica said:


> I measure to the bottom of the box as well. I know some people measure to the middle of the box but that's not how I learned how to do it. I do 16" AFF for bedroom/ living room/ dining receptacles, 44" for switches, bathroom GFI's, and kitchen countertop receptacles. 55" AFF for under cabinet lighting.[/QUOT
> 
> The conter seem excessive high by 10 " - should be about 48" to the top!
> standard rec. look funny to me at more than 15" to the top.
> sw - usually 48 top.


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

mdcorreia said:


> Magnettica said:
> 
> 
> > I measure to the bottom of the box as well. I know some people measure to the middle of the box but that's not how I learned how to do it. I do 16" AFF for bedroom/ living room/ dining receptacles, 44" for switches, bathroom GFI's, and kitchen countertop receptacles. 55" AFF for under cabinet lighting.
> ...


This is a countertop receptacle 44# to the bottom of the box.


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> This is a countertop receptacle 44# to the bottom of the box.


They look about a half inch to high to me. :laughing:

I like those under cabinet lights. I can't let my wife see those.


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

LOL

Those are the Juno Xenon under cabinet lights.

They were easy to work with and install.


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## chefsparky (Mar 10, 2008)

Haven't done house in a while but one of the tricks was to cut wood * like a furing strip * to the right height for plugs and switches


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## rick boyd (Mar 12, 2008)

no! the cubic inches of the box tells how many conductors of what size can be used , box fill calculations NEC


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> Actually, the depth of the box by code shall be recessed no more than 1/4" from the finished surface.


Unless you are putting boxes in a flammable material wall such as car siding.


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## 220/221 (Sep 29, 2007)

> Haven't done house in a while but one of the tricks was to cut wood * like a furing strip * to the right height for plugs and switches


Story pole!!


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

jrclen said:


> Unless you are putting boxes in a flammable material wall such as car siding.



Car siding?


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> Car siding?


Must be a local term. Tongue and groove boards, 3/4 thick, nailed to the walls. It's pretty popular around here.










Here it is in my house. Boxes must be flush or protrude. 314.20


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## te12c02w (Jun 1, 2007)

This seems to be a problem for some people, but it really isn't all that difficult to figure out. All my apprentices have had problems with this and even some of the journeymen. You don't take that mark or notch literally. You find out what the wall covering is, measure the mark or notch and use it as a guidline. Some of those marks used to be 3/8" but most of the ones we've been using lately have been 1/2". If you have 1/2" wall covering set it at the notch, if you have 5/8" wall covering the box comes out another 1/8" which is easy enough to guess at. By the way when we use metal boxes, or plastic boxes with plaster rings I've found it works out better to use the next deepest plaster ring. e.g. with 1/2" drywall we use 5/8" p-rings and it seems to come out just right.


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## jrclen (Jul 10, 2007)

te12c02w said:


> This seems to be a problem for some people, but it really isn't all that difficult to figure out. All my apprentices have had problems with this and even some of the journeymen. You don't take that mark or notch literally. You find out what the wall covering is, measure the mark or notch and use it as a guidline. Some of those marks used to be 3/8" but most of the ones we've been using lately have been 1/2". If you have 1/2" wall covering set it at the notch, if you have 5/8" wall covering the box comes out another 1/8" which is easy enough to guess at. By the way when we use metal boxes, or plastic boxes with plaster rings I've found it works out better to use the next deepest plaster ring. e.g. with 1/2" drywall we use 5/8" p-rings and it seems to come out just right.


Oh, now you went and spoiled all the fun with experience and common sense. :laughing:


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