# How do you embed your warm wire and why?



## Ethos (Feb 21, 2012)

I've done two warm wire installs now, and am about to do my third. In the past, I've done both the skimcoat of thinset and then tile, and I've also tried the trowel as you go method with a plastic trowel. Neither was very pleasant and were very time consuming with all the additional leveling that was necessary. Basically, I'm needing some tips on what makes your installs go the easiest.

I could try self leveling compound, but one problem with SLC is that according to the manufacturer's instructions, I'm supposed to patch the plywood, then prime, then apply metal lathe and then pour. What about SLC over a tileable substrate such as denshield? Any need to prime or lathe then? I'm confused a bit when it comes to SLC, so any help there would be appreciated!

Thank you in advance!


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

I've done the skim coat then tile in the past. The way I do them now is to attach the wire, skim coat then Ditra.

This way you don't have to worry about damaging the wires if you ever have to replace a tile.


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## srwcontracting (Dec 11, 2009)

Never heard of it requiring lathe? Sure patch the plywood and prime.

I use ardex liquid backer. It's not cheap, but makes it easy


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## Ethos (Feb 21, 2012)

tileman2000 said:


> I've done the skim coat then tile in the past. The way I do them now is to attach the wire, skim coat then Ditra.
> 
> This way you don't have to worry about damaging the wires if you ever have to replace a tile.


Now there's an idea! Won't the ditra insulate the warm wire from the surface though?


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## Ethos (Feb 21, 2012)

srwcontracting said:


> Never heard of it requiring lathe? Sure patch the plywood and prime.
> 
> I use ardex liquid backer. It's not cheap, but makes it easy


Maybe that's my problem. I'm looking at the wrong stuff perhaps.


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

The heat transfers through the Ditra and can be felt on the surface.


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## Ethos (Feb 21, 2012)

tileman2000 said:


> I can feel the heat on the surface of the tile. It transfers through the Ditra


One last question:

The Ditra install specs call for first embedding it in thinset, letting it dry and then applying Ditra. Have you had success is combing over the wires and applying Ditra, or do you use the recommended two-step process?


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

tileman2000 said:


> I've done the skim coat then tile in the past. The way I do them now is to attach the wire, skim coat then Ditra.
> 
> This way you don't have to worry about damaging the wires if you ever have to replace a tile.


Ever try cutting the ribs of the Ditra and pushing with wire in like this?










Of if you don't like using lath get a mesh floor warming mat that does the lath's job.


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## srwcontracting (Dec 11, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> Ever try cutting the ribs of the Ditra and pushing with wire in like this?
> 
> Of if you don't like using lath get a mesh floor warming mat that does the lath's job.


That doesn't seem like something that would be recommended. Looks kind of time consuming anyways.


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

It's a two-step process. The main reason I use Ditra is to protect the wires.


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## koegg58 (Dec 12, 2009)

*warm wire*

Ive done a bunch of the warm wire installs. I always use 1/4" cement board and then cut strips where I don't want the self leveling to go. I attach the wire then to the single layer of cement board staying well away from closet flange and all areas under anything or fixture. Then I fill the void flush to the top of the second layer. Its just about the same thickness as 1 layer of 1/2" cement board over your 3/4 substrate


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

srwcontracting said:


> That doesn't seem like something that would be recommended. Looks kind of time consuming anyways.


I honestly have no idea whether it's recommended or not, I didn't do the work I just snapped a pic on a job site. All I can say is the guy that did the work is a veteran tile setter who does brilliant work. He did this in all 5 of the bathrooms on the second floor of the 12k square foot house.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

It is not recommended.

I agree with simply changing the hear you're using. Try Laticrete's mat. You prime, install the heat mat and pour SLC. 

It's not expensive and doesn't take a long time to do. No adding unnecessary floor height as with Ditra.


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## rjconstructs (Apr 26, 2009)

My understanding is the wire must be completely enbedded in self leveling. Even an air bubble can cause a failure.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

SLC surrounds the wire and gives you a pretty flat floor to start with. I'm not comfortable just priming a plywood floor and pouring SLC over the matt. IMO, plywood movement is directly telegraphed into the SLC. I use 1/4 " CBD set the wire matt and poured SLC over it. Never had a failure/cracked tile in the many years I've installed.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

angus242 said:


> It is not recommended.
> 
> I agree with simply changing the hear you're using. Try Laticrete's mat. You prime, install the heat mat and pour SLC.
> 
> It's not expensive and doesn't take a long time to do. No adding unnecessary floor height as with Ditra.


Or do you mean install the mat, then prime, then pour...


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

No. If you do it that way, the primer will pool within the mesh of the heat mat.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

angus242 said:


> No. If you do it that way, the primer will pool within the mesh of the heat mat.


Why does laticrete say to do it that way?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Maybe they've never installed their own mats. The primer pools too much which is a very bad thing.


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## Aaron Tritt (Feb 4, 2011)

I do the same thing as many here do.

Wire, then slc according to manufacturer's instructions, then spider web. I have had to replace a tile and this order of operations saved me!

Also, it is good peace of mind when walking around.

I used to work for a company who did durock, then wire, then slc, but I don't like this method.


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