# Installing backsplash tile over freshly painted drywall



## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Is it safe to tile over freshly painted drywall ? Its new construction and everything has been painted already. Are there any prep steps for this, like scuff sanding or bonding primer? What type of adhesive would be best for this application?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

What is the paint sheen? What tile?

Tom


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

Flat paint. Not sure of tile yet, homeowner didnt make choice yet. Most likely mesh backed strips or mosaic. Not sure if they will be glass, porcelain or ceramic.


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

Never had an issue going over paint. If it was super high gloss oil or something extreme... sand with 80 grit.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

You can go over flat paint with out any issues. 

Mortar will depend on the tile they pick.

I have used Bondera, worked really well.

Tom


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## dale rex (Jun 10, 2012)

How easy is the Bondera to apply tile on if it is pressure sensitive? Looks like an interesting product. Can you reposition the tile easily or does it bond instantly?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

dale rex said:


> How easy is the Bondera to apply tile on if it is pressure sensitive? Looks like an interesting product. Can you reposition the tile easily or does it bond instantly?


You can reposition until you press it into there Bandera. Once you do that it's done.

I use a rubber grout float to apply the pressure. 

Tom


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## inthe6 (Mar 18, 2018)

I've never had an issue going over paint with tiles for a backsplash. This is how I learned, so I've always done it this way. I do make sure there is primer at least, if its new drywall.

Personally, I use tile adhesive called FlexTile. I usually buy the red lid one, but sometimes I buy the blue one if the tile is heavier. It's a trowel on glue. No problems what so ever. 

I have never tried a mortar, I have seen people use it. I know a flooring contractor who only uses it, seems to do wonders for him as he does a lot of custom home for designers. However, I stay away from it due to lack of experience with the product. I stopped doing warranty work along time ago when I was working for builder. I don't plan on starting to have to do warranty work on any tiles I install because of a product I have no experience with failed on me.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

The simple answer is no. There is no approved method for tiling over paint. You need to either apply a PVA or better primer. Most builder paints are full of fillers and not binders.

I am sure the mats work, however I can't see how you get proper coverage using them and since they are new to the market what is their life?

As for adhesive, pick your poison.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

The TCNA doesnt specify anything for primer/paint at least I couldnt find anything.
With a super smooth plaster I would want something else to grip like a primer, even considered a clear primer. Perhaps GARDZ even. My painter uses it for all new drywall, loves it.
Goggling for my own curiosity I saw Sal DiLASIO skim coat the night before with thinset 

With drywall I suppose it shouldnt matter but primer will keep adhesive or thinset moist while curing.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

The problem with paint is it's a coating. It does not penetrate. Since the TCNA isn't specific (that I have found), then we must defer to the manufacturers recommendations. 

*Custom Building Products:
*
*Question:* Can tile be installed on painted surfaces?

Answer: _The bond of the tile to the surface will only be as good as the bond of the paint to that surface. In most cases, the paint should be removed. If the paint is well bonded, the painted surface can be well cleaned and roughened with sand paper. The prepared surface can then be primed with MBP Multi-Surface Bonding Primer and tiles installed with a suitable polymer-modified thin-set mortar._
*

Laticrete:*
_
The preferred method for installing tile over painted surfaces is; securely fasten 3.2# diamond metal lath on 15# builder’s felt over the painted surfaces. Then apply a scratch and leveling coat of 3701 Fortified Mortar Bed; or, 3701 Latex Mortar Admix mixed with 226 Thick Bed Mortar to the lath, allow it to harden, and install tile by the thin set method.
Some latex house paints, when not in wet areas, may be covered directly by tile. Care must be taken to determine that the paint is sound, well bonded to the surface, and will not be in a wet area. Rather than chance a questionable installation, it is best to sand, scarify, or remove the paint entirely before making the tile installation._

I am pretty sure that most, if not all manufacturers state in their installation/prep instructions that all surfaces must be free from paint.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Removing paint from a wall? Sure, I'll get right on it! Sometimes directions can be a bit over the top to cover their butt.

I'd prime it if I felt the need to fight moisture from thinset. But if using mastic, I'd be inclined to tile it straight up.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MarkJames said:


> Removing paint from a wall? Sure, I'll get right on it! Sometimes directions can be a bit over the top to cover their butt.
> 
> I'd prime it if I felt the need to fight moisture from thinset. But if using mastic, I'd be inclined to tile it straight up.


Who recommended that?

Mastic has solvents in it. I think that is as much, or more of a concern than moisture in the thinset. I would also mention the reasoning isn't just the reaction of the moisture in the adhesive, but down the road. It can break down the paint.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Score the area with a diamond pattern and go ahead and install... it's a backsplash, is not structural and not going anywhere after that...


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

KAP said:


> Score the area with a diamond pattern and go ahead and install... it's a backsplash, is not structural and not going anywhere after that...


Score or scarify? Either way, priming is still optimal. No chance of tearing the paper and exposing the core to moisture.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Who recommended that?
> 
> Mastic has solvents in it. I think that is as much, or more of a concern than moisture in the thinset. I would also mention the reasoning isn't just the reaction of the moisture in the adhesive, but down the road. It can break down the paint.


I was loosely (and wildly) interpreting the Custom Q&A response regarding painted surfaces (removing paint in most cases...) Just having fun. I'd prime it and get on with it.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Score or scarify?


Score... 




TNTSERVICES said:


> Either way, priming is still optimal. No chance of tearing the paper and exposing the core to moisture.


And a waste of money and time IMHO... If the OP is that worried, he can use some Musclebound...


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

KAP said:


> Score...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Scoring damages the substrate, not a good idea nor is it recommended by any manufacturer that I am aware of. Roughing up or scarifying yes, but scoring no.

Takes 10 minutes and less than $2 in primer. And you have adhered to industry and manufacturers standards.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

If your backsplash is getting that wet to affect the tile you have much larger problems


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## tang (Jan 5, 2009)

I've always use adhesive/mastic, on the back splash. Over primer, and paint at least on some edges, cuz the painter comes first. Never had a problem.


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