# Ditra and Warmly Yours questions



## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

I am putting Ditra down first with modified thinset. Then putting Warmly Yours unit. I think i should inbed the heat in thinset. Unmodied? And then unmodified to lay the tile?

Only second time using Ditra and haven't used a heating product in at least a decade.

Any suggestions?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Paging Dr. Angus, Dr. Angus......


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I assume Ditra is going over a wood substrate?

If so, embed the heat mat UNDER the Ditra with modified.

Set tile on Ditra with unmodified.

Done.

:thumbsup:


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## JazMan (Feb 16, 2007)

Absolutely. Just make sure the entire subfloor is covered with the modified thin set otherwise you'll need to use modified assuming the floor is the proper type of plywood. Some people, and some floor warming manufacturers, would rather set the mats then pour SLC over everything to make the floor flat. What does Warmly Yours recommend? 

Jaz


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

Going to call them tomorrow. Didn't have time today.

Probably call Schluter, too.

Probably get too different responses.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Schluter will tell you to install the mat under Ditra. Whether you use modified or unmodified thinset will depend how you embed the mat. If you're installing the mat & Ditra at the same time over wood, you use modified. All other scenarios (with mat under Ditra) will be unmodified.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

angus is the most interesting man in the world.


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

Thanks, Angus.

I'm a tad confused. If I just use Ditra, I use modified to set it, and unmodified to set the tile to it, correct?

If I set the heat and Ditra at the same time, i use modified, and then unmodified for the tile.

But if I set the heat first, wait until hard, then set the Ditra on top of it, I use unmodified for the whole job? Or did I get that mixed up?

I'm hesitant to trowel on thinset, imbed heat pad, trowel on another layer of thinset, lay Ditra and smooth it out. Just sounds like something I could easily mess up.

Which approach would you suggest?

Glenn


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Tashler said:


> Thanks, Angus.
> 
> *I'm a tad confused. If I just use Ditra, I use modified to set it, and unmodified to set the tile to it, correct?
> 
> ...


You got that perfect!

As Jaz said, check with Warmly Yours so see what they recommend to embed their mat.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

ApgarNJ said:


> angus is the most interesting man in the world.


Hardly. But the wife will say I very well may be the crabbiest!


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## JazMan (Feb 16, 2007)

Glenn,

Is the warming mat gona cover the entire floor? Usually not. If you cover 100% of the plywood with modified to install the mats and flatten it, then your substrate is not plywood anymore as it relates to installing Ditra. Now it's thin set, which is cementitious, therefore unmodified is what Schluter wants you to use. That's where the confusion arose, right?

Jaz


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

Jaz,

The confusion arises when I arise.

But I think I get it. Now we need to build the floor up a tad, so its either going to be 1/4" cement board or Hardie backer, I don't know which would be better.

Then it will be the mat, thinned slurry of modified (Warmly Yours website shows this, almost like using Gypcrete), then unmodified for the Ditra and tile.

We might go with Durock or Wonderboard backing for the walls, but I thought I had read that Schluter recommended drywall. Perhaps it was ok to use, but not the only option. Their website lists drywall, cement board, etc., so I think it will be cement. Didn't care for Hardie the one time I used it.


Thanks

Glenn


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

Angus,

I just called several places about DensArmor, as you suggest in other threads I have been reading.

Not cheap, not easily available in some places, and one guy thinks I'm nuts.

It having a fiberglass coating, how do you finish the areas to be painted, not tiled?


Glenn


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

When you're looking at a bathroom, the difference in cost between standard drywall & DensArmor is minimal. $50 more to have a paper-free, no food for mold wall finish? That's not bad to me.

As for finishing, I've had great results using SW Preprite Problock latex primer with a 1/2" nap (Purdy Colossus). Finish with 2 coats of SW Duration or Bath semi-gloss paint also with a 1/2" nap. I've had a few where we only replaced parts of the walls with DensArmor and when finished, you cannot tell the difference between old or new finish.


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

Taping and spackling and sanding just like on normal drywall?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Tashler said:


> Taping and spackling and sanding just like on normal drywall?



Yep. I have had my drywall guy finish with both paper and mesh. Seems silly to use paper on fiberglass drywall so I use mesh exclusively.

1st coat mesh is embedded with Durabond (brown bag). 2nd (& finished) coat with DensArmor Cote. Both are mold-resistant.


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## jarvis design (May 6, 2008)

How'd you guys get onto drywall??:laughing::laughing:

My normall installation for in floor heating is: 3/8" plywood over existing 5/8" subfloor, layout and install heating cables, cover with SLC, install ditra with modified, set tiles with un-modified


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

What is SLC?


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Salt Lake City.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Tashler said:


> What is SLC?



Mike is correct.......


But for a heat mat, try *s*elf *l*eveling *c*ompound :laughing:


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