# Wedged Slivers For Filling Gaps in Century Old Houses



## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I think I'll just give up on wedges, I'm just not that good with a saw. I'll do various sizes of 90 degree strips that don't require as much saw experience. I am a painter, after all. In this case, the floor needs fixing before I "paint" it.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Golden view said:


> How many linear feet?


I'm thinking about 200 l.ft. possibly double that.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Shipped from Europe or UK is a minimum $160/100 meters (Canadian) Really!, it's only milled scrap wood! The shipping cost more than product! I just received my first quote back from one of the "cheaper" outfits.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

JenniferTemple said:


> I think I'll just give up on wedges, I'm just not that good with a saw. I'll do various sizes of 90 degree strips that don't require as much saw experience. I am a painter, after all. In this case, the floor needs fixing before I "paint" it.



How big are the gaps? Got any pics? Are you sanding the floors before painting? Have you considered a trowlable floor filler, like woodwise or bona? They'll require sanding the floors if you go that route.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

pinwheel said:


> How big are the gaps? Got any pics? Are you sanding the floors before painting? Have you considered a trowlable floor filler, like woodwise or bona? They'll require sanding the floors if you go that route.


The reason the wedges matter is the variation in the gap sizes. Anywhere from a 1/4" to 1/16. I did not consider floor filler because word has it, they all break up over time and then look like gaps filled with gravel. Wood slivers are the "gold standard" but may not be possible in my case.


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## Frank Castle (Dec 27, 2011)

Since you're not good with the saw, have a local cabinet shop or handyman make you some.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

JenniferTemple said:


> The reason the wedges matter is the variation in the gap sizes. Anywhere from a 1/4" to 1/16. I did not consider floor filler because word has it, they all break up over time and then look like gaps filled with gravel. Wood slivers are the "gold standard" but may not be possible in my case.



The big gaps, I'd probably not use full trowel filler, but the smaller gaps, absolutely use floor filler, it's not going to fracture loose . I fill every new floor I lay. I have no issues with woodwise floor filler fracturing or crumbling. I've had gaps up to 1/8" that I've had to fill & havent had trouble with crumbling filler. Here's a good option for your wide gaps if they're not extremely long & numerous. I've made some pretty sizeable repairs on older floors where door jambs don't hide the gaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Home-Solutions-Wood-Filler/dp/B0007ZG9T4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520875894&sr=8-2&keywords=wood+bondo


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

pinwheel said:


> The big gaps, I'd probably not use full trowel filler, but the smaller gaps, absolutely use floor filler, it's not going to fracture loose . I fill every new floor I lay. I have no issues with woodwise floor filler fracturing or crumbling. I've had gaps up to 1/8" that I've had to fill & havent had trouble with crumbling filler. Here's a good option for your wide gaps if they're not extremely long & numerous. I've made some pretty sizeable repairs on older floors where door jambs don't hide the gaps.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Home-Solutions-Wood-Filler/dp/B0007ZG9T4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520875894&sr=8-2&keywords=wood+bondo


I'll give the Bondo a try for for small gaps between my fill strips and the nail impressions where I need to sink and hide the nails. These are pictures of a section of floor (the worst of them!) and a picture of some thin strip wood fillers I;m trying out.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

JenniferTemple said:


> I'll give the Bondo a try for for small gaps between my fill strips and the nail impressions where I need to sink and hide the nails. These are pictures of a section of floor (the worst of them!) and a picture of some thin strip wood fillers I;m trying out.
> View attachment 440154
> View attachment 440162


Google woodwise floor filler & get you a gallon of it as well. It'll work easier filling the small gaps ya don't get with the wood strips. It has great bonding power & won't crumble or chip out easy.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Why not a taper jig for you table saw?


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Why not a taper jig for you table saw?


Yup, Going to do just that! I will make my own and I'll offer to make them to order for anybody that wants some.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

JenniferTemple said:


> HOWEVER, I can not yet figure out how I would get the required *V* shape. It seems no mater what type of saw I used, it would not be angled on both sides. Am I wrong about this? I am trying to imagine the process for getting that nice V.



The long wedges are easily made with a track saw. 

The track saw can be set at any bevel angle from -1º to + 47º.

These pieces are 3/16" thick, all ripped with a track saw.

Tom


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

OK, the table saw arrived. I have made a few slivers now and am finding the best way (safest) is to take them from the salvage side of the blade. Some are coming out better than others but they are all working in the floor.


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## Defenestrate (Aug 13, 2015)

Don't be sticking your hand on the wrong side of the blade. A pushblock with a hook (and no metal fasteners where the blade is going to cut through it) is what I'd use.

I think Fine Woodworking did an article a while back on ripping thin stock safely.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Defenestrate said:


> Don't be sticking your hand on the wrong side of the blade. A pushblock with a hook (and no metal fasteners where the blade is going to cut through it) is what I'd use.
> 
> I think Fine Woodworking did an article a while back on ripping thin stock safely.


I use one of these:


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