# These lineblocks



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Anyone know where to get these lineblocks?


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## RiverCityMason (Jun 17, 2010)

Nope sure don't, but they almost look big enough to pull of a bullnose lead. Those kinda blocks are getting harder to come by anymore.


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

http://srspecialtytool.weebly.com/index.html
Not the same exact ones. But are very similar.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I'm not trying to be a smart ass these are genuine questions. For that door line block, why not use a regular wood block and twig the line to the corner? I guess it would be a bit faster with those blocks. And with those pink blocks, what's different from regular line blocks? Also what's a bullnose lead, those round cornered blocks?

I don't know the name of the company but I bought some blocks that clip to the top of the unit using a spring, rather than the side so there's no tension on anything, so no need for any sort of lead. Install your unit at either end then infill. The topper was that rather than string it used an elastic so no need to adjust the string so much. Elastic would have to be replaced after a month cause it would stretch.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

A wooden lineblock wont stay on that metal pole, itll slip off with line tension. 

The other line block will stay up on the door frame without line tension. There is usually blocks on both sides of the door so im not sure about the ranging of the line, shrug.

*The Door Frame Block is not a new idea, it is just one improved upon . This tool can increase production, as well as the quaility of work . The unque part of this tool is the fact that it takes no tension on the line to keep it where you place it. The Door Frame Block is made so it snuggly fits on to the steel door frame and stays where you place; not falling off if the line is slack. The Door Frame Block is designed to hold up to the stress of daily use, well hold up to 100 lb of line preasure; more than enough to do the job.


*


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Oh right, the door frames have roundish corners


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

dom-mas said:


> Oh right, the door frames have roundish corners


What peaked my interest is I am thinking about rigging some poles for speed leads on a fireplace.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Sounds like a big fireplace


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

dom-mas said:


> Sounds like a big fireplace


Five feet, its just tall


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

five foot fire box? that's big enough. 

I don't use speed leads but when I worked for a guy who did, he used 2x2 aluminum posts and regular line blocks. the corners of the 2x2 were a bit rounded but the line stayed on fine.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

A 5' chimney, I was throwing around some speed poles, the chimney is going to have i dunno, 5 arches in it or so.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

oh, the speed leads are for the chimney. Decorative relief arches or do they have a purpose?


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Yeah mostly decorative. I might talk to him about running a small light in the top of a couple of them.


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

JBM said:


> A wooden lineblock wont stay on that metal pole, itll slip off with line tension.
> 
> The other line block will stay up on the door frame without line tension. There is usually blocks on both sides of the door so im not sure about the ranging of the line, shrug.
> 
> ...


What do you mean by there are usually blocks on both sides of the door? I think I maybe misunderstanding what you are saying.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

*line blocks*

JBM A wild guess of mine,those blocks you posted may come from U.K. The reason i say that is because the "frog" is up. Most books on masonry in the states show the frog down. I have always heard it is to prevent a "BOWL" to catch & hold water. Also in the videos in U.K. most bricklayers use the pick and dip method. The frog up i feel is more conducive to that method. It is easier to throw or string mortar as most bricklayers in U.S do with frog down. That raises a question frog up frog down?


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Frog down, I'll put the frog up in some rebuilding when tying into the existing so that I can fill the frog before sliding the brick between the 2 toothed bricks. Another reason for frog down is because on the first course the frog will give the mortar somewhere to go.


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## RiverCityMason (Jun 17, 2010)

dom-mas said:


> I'm not trying to be a smart ass these are genuine questions. For that door line block, why not use a regular wood block and twig the line to the corner? I guess it would be a bit faster with those blocks. And with those pink blocks, what's different from regular line blocks? Also what's a bullnose lead, those round cornered blocks?
> 
> I don't know the name of the company but I bought some blocks that clip to the top of the unit using a spring, rather than the side so there's no tension on anything, so no need for any sort of lead. Install your unit at either end then infill. The topper was that rather than string it used an elastic so no need to adjust the string so much. Elastic would have to be replaced after a month cause it would stretch.


Yes Dom-mas a "bullnose lead" would either be single or double BN rounded on the jam and typically on a door/window jam or outside corner or interior window sill. 

Those blocks would be handy on a 6" wall with door frames otherwise i dont see where you would get much use out of them. Not knocking the product at all. I may order a few myself. Good old Mcgyver style chop up a scrap of 2" styrofoam and fashion an L block has saved me countless man hours in a pinch. Not the sturdiest of line holder but it does work. 

Fruit for thought or argument :laughing: There are hords of products out there that try to replace the skill of the mason. Some are good, some are just rediculous. Here are a few i found myself scratching my head over. 






By the time these fellas got these polls up i would have been at my first grout lift. And what about tolerances? Any good mason knows that tension on a pole is going to throw it out of plumb if not bracketed at the top. And even then with significant tension some flex will occur. 





 WTF????? :laughing: Good for diy i guess. 

Didnt mean to jack your thread just kicking some life in her. arty: RCM


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

NJ Brickie said:


> What do you mean by there are usually blocks on both sides of the door? I think I maybe misunderstanding what you are saying.


Usually you run a line from the corner, I dont remember filling in a wall starting from an opening before.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

fjn said:


> JBM A wild guess of mine,those blocks you posted may come from U.K. The reason i say that is because the "frog" is up. Most books on masonry in the states show the frog down. I have always heard it is to prevent a "BOWL" to catch & hold water. Also in the videos in U.K. most bricklayers use the pick and dip method. The frog up i feel is more conducive to that method. It is easier to throw or string mortar as most bricklayers in U.S do with frog down. That raises a question frog up frog down?


Good observation. Thats what its called eh/>? I was just thinking, he is laying them upside down, dumass


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## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

http://www.ibstock.com/pdfs/technical-support/TIS-25-Laying-frogged-bricks.pdf


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