# trouble hiding ceiling tape joints



## mooredw (Feb 9, 2012)

What brand of rock did you use? Certainteed/temple both have very high shoulders..[garbage board]..


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

jazzpur said:


> greetings everyone, brand new to the forum and brand new to drywall.
> 
> after a little reserach, what im trying to achieve is the so called "level 5 finish"
> 
> ...


Time to learn how to texture now. :thumbup:


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## mooredw (Feb 9, 2012)

I know It's hard to tell from a pic,,But that home was stocked with temple rock [high shoulders] I takes alot to level out those seams ..I went back to finish off the basement ,and checked out the rest of the house with a 500 watt hologen ..Came out good ,,but was alot of extra work.. Certainteed - pro rock/ Templeinland SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

greg24k said:


> ..and not to mention what they paying you to do this...


sounds fishy to me


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## Anti-wingnut (Mar 12, 2009)

72chevy4x4 said:


> sounds fishy to me


I think we have a DIY'er


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

mrmike said:


> Yes, the lighting illuminates the ceiling & will accent the joints everytime and look like shadows. If the paint coverage is not right, even if the joints are smooth, this is what you get. It will show up even more by big windows near natural light. It is the paint!


Then do me a favor. Take a flash light and place it against the ceiling and snap a pic and post.


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## Pete'sfeets (Mar 20, 2011)

I'd be a little suspicious of pink ceiling paint anyhow. Get up to the ceiling and see if the seam will shift when you press on it. If it does no amount of skim coats will help. I just got terrorized by a plasterer who used mesh tape on drywall that had no strapping, oh I could blame the drywaller, waste of mud, primer and a whole lot too much dust, cracks came back anyhow. Too coats of ceiling paint is the bare minimum, just to get the patchy look gone, look for the flattest sheen, gelled ceiling paint often has more sheen.


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## remomarc (Jul 10, 2007)

If you don't get paid until its flat; Take the rock down, run some string. fir to the string, hang the rock on flat happy joists


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## mooredw (Feb 9, 2012)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These pics are from a home I turned down back in the early fall.
I was busy ..The framing was a cluster..The h/o ordered the wallboard before calling me [all pro rock] plus It was a 500 boarder..so I gave her the names of two of the best d/c in cental Va. Both of there bids were close..very fair for that type of home imo....But they find the low baller ,,or I should say the low baller found her..His price was close to the other two ,,but It included a spray prme on the entire home [ I know this bible thumpin hack ,and theres a reason why I didn't throw his name at her]

The primer was sprayed heavy to the point where it pooled , runs etc,,, no back roll .. EVERY seam in this home has peaked/crowned/humped how ever ya want to desribe it...Looks like chit..Was not a sandable prime it has a shine to it.. 

His finish was not good ..Then he soaks the house down with a water hose basicly .. ALL the feild screws are sunkin..Like they were only coated once. 

I love these guys!!!! GOOD FOR BUISINESS . 

The reason I'm there fixin The worst areas ,,and doing touch up behind the trim/floor guy is cause she run the hack off..


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

jazzpur said:


> its standard 1/2" rock
> 
> as for primer it was a valspar drywall sealer primer
> as for paint i used zinsser rustoleum ceiling paint...the pink stuff 1 coat so far, 2 and even 3 coats in problem areas
> ...


 Then hire a tradesman that does the work u need done


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Yes,it is the tape joints and yes a 16th will show in certain lighting


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## Ext. Sol. LLC (Apr 22, 2012)

Masterhide Flat white paint from Sherwin Williams


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Ext. Sol. LLC said:


> Masterhide Flat white paint from Sherwin Williams


 That's a lower tier paint around here. 
I'd say splurge for Promar 200 or Super paint at least, if your going to go with SW. :thumbsup:


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## Ext. Sol. LLC (Apr 22, 2012)

For sure its entry level paint for a ceiling its perfect. It is ultra flat. Most ceiling paint has a slight level of sheen. For walls we use Pro Mar 200


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## rbartlett5869 (May 1, 2012)

*Hiding seams*

Looks like the boards were hung wrong, if not what is the spacing of the joists? If there more than 16" the you should have used 5/8 rock otherwise your joints will sag regardless of install direction. Lay a bed of mud between joints and set in charcoal mesh screen (window screen) 3' widths between joints and skim over it immediately when you imbed it otherwise bubble city. Ton of work but it will give you the finish you need. Get a helper and lots of mud. Try using rapid coat gold top if you can find it. Good luck


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## jazzpur (Apr 17, 2012)

thank you guys for all of your help, ive sorted the situation out and its looking beautiful...

the drywall was hung in the proper direction and the furring layout was 16" O.C.....so that wasnt the issue.

my problem was three fold...

1.my tape joints were valleyed (only 1/32", but enough to reveal themselves with my lighting conditions)

2. surfaces were too disimilar (paper vs. joint compound)

3. paint wasnt applied heavy enough (3/8" nap was a bad choice for primer and finish coats

i started with the technique suggested to hold my knife vertically as im pulling the compound (i.e. perpendicular to the drywall surface itself)
i was amazed at how much compound was filling in the voids....none of that showed when i was pulling my knife tightly on an angle because the knife was actually bending to repeat the same contour. working with a 500watt halogen from the side helped greatly.

i then skimmed the entire surface and sanded before paint

and another very important factor was switching from a 3/8" purdy white dove roller cover to a 3/4" purdy collossus roller cover. the paint just applies so much thicker and more even with the benifit of the added nap. barely any difference in stipple also.
i think dry rolling with the 3/8" rollers was adding dimension to the imperfections.

the picture shown here was after primer and a single coat in the tested area. a lot of other things going on so ill post the final coat once its up

thanks again guys for all of your tips :thumbup:


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

I am not a drywaller so I know there are some methods that are quicker and easier than what I am about to share but I can say that through my own experience that this does indeed work-

What I will do is run a bead of mud using an 8" blade right down the middle of the bulging joint without tapering the edges. When that dries,then I will run another bead of mud down both sides of the first bead. Lastly I will run one more bead of mud on each side and then taper it off. Then I will sand everything right down the middle using long even strokes with a pole sander. If the bulge in the middle is gone, then I will sand down the edges.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

jazzpur said:


> thank you guys for all of your help, ive sorted the situation out and its looking beautiful...
> 
> the drywall was hung in the proper direction and the furring layout was 16" O.C.....so that wasnt the issue.
> 
> ...


Looks 100% better. Glad it worked out for you and very cool of you to post results:thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

jazzpur said:


> thank you guys for all of your help, ive sorted the situation out and its looking beautiful...
> 
> the drywall was hung in the proper direction and the furring layout was 16" O.C.....so that wasnt the issue.
> 
> ...


I'm glad it all worked out for you. Thanks for checking back in and giving us an update Jazz.:thumbsup:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

rbartlett5869 said:


> Looks like the boards were hung wrong, if not what is the spacing of the joists? If there more than 16" the you should have used 5/8 rock otherwise your joints will sag regardless of install direction. Lay a bed of mud between joints and set in charcoal mesh screen (window screen) 3' widths between joints and skim over it immediately when you imbed it otherwise bubble city. Ton of work but it will give you the finish you need. Get a helper and lots of mud. Try using rapid coat gold top if you can find it. Good luck


That sounds kinda crazy to me. I think learning how to ''float out'' with just mud would save the hassle and cost of screen. And if you put the screen on wrong and it comes out all lumpy you're kinda screwed. Try sanding that down.

If it works for you great. And welcome.


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## Rent A Painter (May 29, 2010)

Ext. Sol. LLC said:


> Masterhide Flat white paint from Sherwin Williams


Try Sherwin Williams Brilliance is an ultra flat specially formulated for ceilings. :thumbsup:


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