# Re-Occurring Drywall Cracks



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

John1957 said:


> Sorry pards, but it's not a load of crap, and it does works very well. If it didn't work and look "pro"......I wouldn't do it. I have been doing warranty work for many of the large local home builders and many smaller builders using this technique since 2004.... Dragas, Chesapeake Homes, Franciscus, Wilmic, and many others. Not one ever questioned my work, or had to call me back due to workmanship or product. They often have the painters there waiting on me because it's paintable in about 20-30 minutes.
> 
> This ceiling below that I did this past March had probably 40'-50' of various crack lines going on with the ceiling plaster. It got Maxflex and a sponge, and it rolled out like a brand new ceiling 30 minutes after.
> 
> ...


I would be happy to take you up on a visit. How about September? (happens to be one of my favorite months for waves, water temp and sparse beach crowds.) :vs_rocking_banana:


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## Jughead (May 31, 2017)

hdavis said:


> Don't have a drywall seam at the corner of a window, doorway, or any other large hole in a wall.


Seams is a new term for me, I'm accustomed to joints.

Are they using seam compound and where can we get it?

Yes I know about hanging rock, easiest and best to run 12' sheets right over openings and then cut the opening out. Least joints the better.

Good advice Smalltownguy on your post.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Jughead said:


> And since many of the seams in my dining room showed seam cracks within a couple years and I had to tape them.





Jughead said:


> Seams is a new term for me, I'm accustomed to joints.


Sounds like maybe you need to lighten up on your joint usage. :laughing:


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## Jughead (May 31, 2017)

Tinstaafl said:


> Sounds like maybe you need to lighten up on your joint usage. :laughing:


Good one Tin 
Though I'd prefer configuration


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## Workingmanvan (Feb 27, 2017)

Regarding the mesh tape fix- I have used both mesh and paper tape to repair cracks. Never any call backs. However- with the mesh tape I have always used a fast setting type compound, not all purpose. I am curious to try that caulking for cracks mentioned above in the thread. If it works, it would save a lot of work, 3 coats with feathering out each coat, sanding, etc.

That said if there are structural issues or issues with the original boarding then who knows, obviously best to get that fixed or live with it if it does crack again, hang a picture. Maybe I am lucky though, but taping it I have never had one open up again. That I heard about anyways.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Caulk isn't unusual. It works, and there are situations where it's the only practical solution.


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## Jughead (May 31, 2017)

hdavis said:


> Caulk isn't unusual. It works, and there are situations where it's the only practical solution.


Caulk is your friend on a minor punch-list trip, who the hell has the time to be breaking out the tape and mud and watching it dry?

On drying, I learned recently my mistake in using the 45min set spackle.
It didn't set in 45 minutes, and being a late in the day visit I had to go back again the next evening to sand and paint it. This on a job where I wasn't the painter, but due to electricians making a few new holes that needed to be taped.

If you want something that sets fast use plaster of Paris.
Save your coffee and laundry detergent containers and you can do 3 coats in a half hour and paint it.


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## rosonviyavong (Jul 15, 2017)

I've used DAP ElastoPatch with good results. The material is about the consistency of yogurt, and you can apply it with a 6-inch joint-taping knife. Although it's pretty simple to use, it'll take you a few tries before you can produce a smooth finish. I'd recommend experimenting on a cast-off bit of drywall first.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

blacktop said:


> caulk it dude! and while your at it? Get yourself a corner spoon!! :thumbsup:



How would you fix it? I got a similar issue and my drywaller wants to pack in that caulk. He did about 3' and it looks like S. I think he used topping mud for taping but he says no. It cracked before he was even done sanding. 

The drywall supplier thinks it's an issue with using that new lightweight 5/8" drywall. Maybe he's right because I've always used the heavy stuff until now.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Big Johnson said:


> How would you fix it? I got a similar issue and my drywaller wants to pack in that caulk. He did about 3' and it looks like S. I think he used topping mud for taping but he says no. It cracked before he was even done sanding.
> 
> The drywall supplier thinks it's an issue with using that new lightweight 5/8" drywall. Maybe he's right because I've always used the heavy stuff until now.


I was joking about the caulk ! If you have a Mudder that uses caulk ?

You need to find another Mudder !!!


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

blacktop said:


> I was joking about the caulk ! If you have a Mudder that uses caulk ?
> 
> You need to find another Mudder !!!


So it needs to be scraped and retaped?


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Y y 


Big Johnson said:


> So it needs to be scraped and retaped?


Too many variables to even take a guess. If the the angle tape was still wet when the block and skim was applied? That can cause the angles to hairline crack. 

Too much mud over the angle tapes can cause cracking also. Machine tools (flushers & machine heads ) if not used correctly can leave the angle tapes overloaded. 
The old DIY angle tool you see at blowe s that loads both sides at once will cause the angles to crack every time ! And I'll take that comment to my grave ! 

After the angle tapes are applied properly. Meaning...a good square inside corner... all that's needed is a thin block on each side ..then let CURE! And then a thin skim on the other side. 


But to answer you question? Yes ! Dig the caulk out. And re tape it. .. but lots of times those minor hair line cracks in the angles that are caused from mud not cured or poor machine work can simply be fixed by using the corner of a 4" or 5" and scraping the corner lightly. And then repaint. I know that sounds crazy. !! But I've taught that trick to many painters. And they have all said it works .


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## TheBrando (Jul 15, 2017)

Where it's cracking is there a stud or backing behind it?


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

blacktop said:


> Y y
> 
> Too many variables to even take a guess. If the the angle tape was still wet when the block and skim was applied? That can cause the angles to hairline crack.
> 
> ...



The cracks are all in the field only on the tapered joints. The room is ~35' long. Mudder uses boxes for everything. I like the theory that he didn't let the coats dry long enough in between. The cracking occurred immediately following the application of the crows foot texture.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Big Johnson said:


> The cracks are all in the field only on the tapered joints. The room is ~35' long. Mudder uses boxes for everything. I like the theory that he didn't let the coats dry long enough in between. The cracking occurred immediately following the application of the crows foot texture.


Oh .... yeah ! He pushed it .. Machine or hand finish don't matter . When you try to push it . Too much too soon. Ya gonna have issues .


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Just because it turns white .
Don't mean it's dry !


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

blacktop said:


> Just because it turns white .
> Don't mean it's dry !




Thanks. His work has been getting worse with each house. Time to get a new drywaller I guess.


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