# who rip with there circular saw?



## CJ21 (Aug 11, 2007)

I am wondering do you use rip with your circular saw? This is something I have improve I guess I need to practice more with my Skil 5400 circular saw.


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## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

Um...yes, a skil saw is for ripping and cross cutting.


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## Joe Carola (Jun 15, 2004)

CJ21 said:


> I am wondering do you use rip with your circular saw? This is something I have improve I guess I need to practice more with my Skil 5400 circular saw.


Depends on what you're ripping. You talking about just framing like 2x's and plywood, or are you talking about trim?


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## rusty1986 (Jul 23, 2008)

Usually I'll have a table saw on site, but if I don't I'll rip with a circular saw.

If it's rough, I'll just snap a chalk line. If it needs to be fairly clean, I'll nail a fence/guide on.


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## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

my lead framer, GIL (RIP), once butchered a whole deer with a circ saw....if i dont have a table saw, in a pinch i will rip anything with a circ saw !!! and very straight, i dare you to pick out the factory edge


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## CJ21 (Aug 11, 2007)

Talking about both rusty.


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## Craft-man (Sep 27, 2008)

Ripping with a Worm-Drive Circ Saws

:thumbup:RULES THE LAND :thumbup:


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## BuiltByMAC (Mar 11, 2006)

I never killed a deer with one before but, yes, I do rip w/ 'em...

(wouldn't a sawzall be more versatile for parting out the animal? Kinda like an electric carver at Thanksgiving!)



Mac








PUI


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## deckman22 (Oct 20, 2007)

I use the circular saw to rip quite a bit. I use a little brass clip made for putting on framing squares for cutting stair stringers. The clip has a screw that you use to fasten to the saw table, works like a champ & no splinters.


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## romoranger (Sep 22, 2008)

I do, last deck I built I only ordered 2x6 stock for the decking, railings, balusters and such. between my worm drive and a router it looks like it came finished perfectly from the factory; in fact its the way it should have came.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

CJ21 said:


> I am wondering do you use rip with your circular saw? This is something I have improve I guess I need to practice more with my Skil 5400 circular saw.


As you are still a student, I suggest
that you practice with your saw by day,
and work on your grammar and syntax
by night.


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## JonM (Nov 1, 2007)

I have actually had someone hold a circular saw upside down and have ripped a narrow piece of trim...


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

BuiltByMAC said:


> I never killed a deer with one before but, yes, I do rip w/ 'em...
> 
> (wouldn't a sawzall be more versatile for parting out the animal? Kinda like an electric carver at Thanksgiving!)
> 
> ...


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## Mellison (Aug 3, 2008)

A teacher once cut a damn near perfect circle out of plywood with a circular saw.
Take that for whatever the hell it's worth.


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## Cdat (Apr 18, 2007)

BuiltByMAC said:


> (wouldn't a sawzall be more versatile for parting out the animal? Kinda like an electric carver at Thanksgiving!)
> Mac


Now, I have to try that! Thanks for the idea.:thumbsup:


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## CJ21 (Aug 11, 2007)

Yes I am still a student, I am also taking english classes.


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

Cdat said:


> Now, I have to try that! Thanks for the idea.:thumbsup:


Works great running the saw down the center of the backbone. 10" demo blade, but you have to have holding the carcass steady


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## Cdat (Apr 18, 2007)

PA woodbutcher said:


> Works great running the saw down the center of the backbone. 10" demo blade, but you have to have holding the carcass steady


Never mind, I read *spiral saw* instead of *sawzall*. Don't know how I did that....


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## Meetre (Nov 2, 2007)

I use the circ for ripping, sometimes. I've got an 8' straight-edge clamp with an attachment for the circ. saw, comes in handy once and a while. :thumbsup: But, if I have a choice, most rips are in the table saw, just faster and easier for me.


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## dlcj (Oct 1, 2007)

as for ripping with a circ saw, if your gonna call yourself a carpenter its a skill you must have. however depeninding on the task at hand it may vary. if im framing i use a circ saw, however if im doing trimwork and i need a precise rip i use the table saw even for free hand tapers, as its easier to see the blade and the cut line[/QUOTE]

was goin to say exactly that too. And add that using a irwin marithon thin kirf blade makes it easier and gives the saw more power especially for treated wood.


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## Higgs (Sep 9, 2007)

hey,
Ripping straight will come with time. keep practicing. Also get a summer job working for a framer. That will fix you right up.


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

How do you clean all of the blood & stuff off of (& inside) your saw? You don't take a hose to it, do you?
Steve


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## Joining_heads (Mar 4, 2008)

For framing I always rip with a circular.

Wormdrive all the way.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Ripping is no problem. If precision doesn't matter too much most saws have a guide that you can buy.

If precision DOES matter you can build a guide to clamp or screw to your workpiece. Helps prevent blowouts too. Dad taught me how to build one and I think that I saw a how-to by Norm over at TOH.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

how are the irwin blades anyway? ive been diablo thin kerf blades on my milwaukee for the last few years, around here the diablo's are 12.50 the irwin blades are $16. 

worth the change or stick to the diablo?


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Do they see abuse? If not I'd buy the best that I could afford. I'd put a $60 blade on a $25 saw before going the other way.


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## dlcj (Oct 1, 2007)

woodworkbykirk said:


> how are the irwin blades anyway? ive been diablo thin kerf blades on my milwaukee for the last few years, around here the diablo's are 12.50 the irwin blades are $16.
> 
> worth the change or stick to the diablo?


I havent used the diablo so i cant say but the irwins i been buying are $7-10 here. Just bought one that says its specially made for cutting treated wood but it looks just like all the others. Dont know that i can tell a difference but i do like it and i can rip a 16' treated 2x at walking speed with one on my dewalt.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

woodworkbykirk said:


> worth the change or stick to the diablo?


I switched over to Diablo about a year ago. Unless Irwin has changed during that time, they're not nearly as good.


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## deckman22 (Oct 20, 2007)

woodworkbykirk said:


> how are the irwin blades anyway? ive been diablo thin kerf blades on my milwaukee for the last few years, around here the diablo's are 12.50 the irwin blades are $16.
> 
> worth the change or stick to the diablo?


I used the diablo's, but they seem too thin to me. I've had a couple of them get warped or bent for no reason, then they cut too fat a line cause of the blade wobbleing. Went back to using the irwin's.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

right on my fellow wood cutting friend, ill pick one up next time i need one. i was kinda wondering why the hd dropped the price on em from 16, perhaps this is why

as for the 2 pack of 10 " and 12" diablo blades being discontinued at hd, they said they sell to well, its hurting their sales on the individual blades and the dewalt blades, 
within 4 days of bringing em in stock 30 units gone. where as they might move 1 or 2 of the dewalt 2 packs a week


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## CJ21 (Aug 11, 2007)

I am going to be replace my Skil Circular Saw with a Makita 5007MG Circular Saw.


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## 1018 (Mar 13, 2008)

CJ21 said:


> I am going to be replace my Skil Circular Saw with a Makita 5007MG Circular Saw.



Best decision you'll ever make.


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## CJ21 (Aug 11, 2007)

Its look like a good saw for framing.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

lots of power, the motor can create a wicked turbine of air coming out awesome for blowing off sheets of osb making the sheet safer to pass up to the guys sheething roof framing. only thing i dont like about them is their really loud compared to my milwaukee


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

CJ21 said:


> I am going to be replace my Skil Circular Saw with a Makita 5007MG Circular Saw.


I like mine...:thumbup:


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## Woodratchet (Mar 17, 2008)

I rip with mine up to 25 inches thanks to my 2 foot rip guide
excuse the red paint this is my beater saw


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

one can easily make round cuts with a skil saw. this is why it is called a circular saw.


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## Dan V. (Oct 16, 2008)

I recently made the mistake of buying a Ryobi circ saw. What a piece of crap! It will NOT stay at 90 degrees. My old Craftsman was better. I'm thinking of a Makita or DeWalt. Any suggestions either way? I generally use it for framing.


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## silvertree (Jul 22, 2007)

neolitic said:


> As you are still a student, I suggest
> that you practice with your saw by day,
> and work on your grammar and syntax
> by night.


Yes, it makes for easier reading, but the dude is going to school, so it will get better.:thumbsup:


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## gtdail (May 31, 2006)

*make your own straightedge*

I made a straight edge out of some scrap 3/4" ply and it works great. I don't think the thickness of the scrap matters to much just so it is not bending in the middle. When figuring the width of the base allow for space to clamp on the backside of the fence(without it the saw motor will hit the clamps on the fence. When you attach the fence board to the base make sure that you first rip will slightly cut the base board. This will give you your rip line, no more popping chalk on veneer grade plywood. When using this set up the base also helps to prevent chip/tear out on the good side of your cut. works great on ripping sheet goods on site, when a perfect edge is needed. make a 4' and a 8' while you are making them. They work good for me. The drawing may explain it better


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

Dan V. said:


> I recently made the mistake of buying a Ryobi circ saw. What a piece of crap! It will NOT stay at 90 degrees. My old Craftsman was better. I'm thinking of a Makita or DeWalt. Any suggestions either way? I generally use it for framing.


 
Bosch CS20, rated Best by Tauntons and I have personally used it. I liked everything about it, blew my Makita 5007 out of the water....that rafter hook is VERY nice, so is the direct connect. You can find the CS20 at store for a little as $100.


Well, I would put a link in here, but I am not allowed so you will have to google Bosch CS20.

Here is what Fine Homebuilding wrote about it

"This saw has some unique features that turn out to be fairly useful. Its Direct-Connect setup makes it difficult to unplug the saw accidentally and eliminates the usual weak point where the power cord enters the tool. The built-in rafter hook is handy when climbing a ladder or working on a roof. The bevel and depth-adjustment levers are large and easy to operate, and the 56 degrees maximum bevel is impressive. The saw has detents for 22.5 degrees and 45 degrees bevels, but the detent spring needed tweaking with a screwdriver from time to time to keep the detents strong. Depth of cut can be adjusted without moving one's right hand off the handle, and the large, easy-to-read, rear-facing gauge made depth changes fast and convenient. The front handle is pushed to the left, away from the blade, which provides an excellent line of sight. The only thing that might be improved is the fiber-composite base, which is strong and light but has a bit too much flex."



To be fair the Milwaukee 6390-21 tied with the Bosch but I have not used it....

"The Tilt-Lok handle allows the handle to be positioned behind the blade, above the blade, or anywhere in between. This enhances comfort and balance, no matter what type of cutting needs to be done. With an oblong handle mounted in front of the bevel adjustment at a 45 degree angle, this saw's sightlines were the best of any saw tested, and there is plenty of room in the padded grip for a gloved hand. The cushioned and contoured grip at the front of the saw provides for great control. The baseplate is solid, and depth and bevel controls are easy to operate. The only drawback is that there is no bevel stop or detent at 45 degrees."

The biggest thing I can say is DON'T limit yourself to what the big box stores have to offer.... there are far more and far better tools out there then just what HomeDepot and Lowes carry.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

just a note, shortly after that issue came out the bosch was recalled. the milwaukee tilt-lok has been on the top of the list for close to 6 years

one thing not mentioned in the article is that the life expectancy of the motors in these saws. consumer reports tested a bunch of different saws and the tilt-lok averaged 700 + hours before the motor burned out, the next best was porter cable i believe at 125 hours. i can vouch for this as one contractor i worked for had 3 makita's die while the tilt-lok was still going strong

im currently considering picking up a worm-drive saw for a work saw or the new corded 6 1/4 ridgid for cutting panels


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## Dan V. (Oct 16, 2008)

Great info! Thanks. I'll have to check out the Tilt-Lok. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill and I absolutely love it. Paid a bit over $200 for it and worth every penny.


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## NWBuilder (Aug 29, 2008)

First hand experience here, a sawzall work great on butchering game animals!


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

NWBuilder said:


> First hand experience here, a sawzall work great on butchering game animals!


Using the a long demo blade keeps the bone and flesh from getting into the saw.


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

Hey Dan,
Milwaukee does makes a great Tilt-Loc Saw. Normally $130, but recently HD or Lowes had it for $90. I loved mine, but so did the jerk who stole it. My new Hitachi is a joke compared to the Milwaukee.
Steve


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

woodworkbykirk said:


> just a note, shortly after that issue came out the bosch was recalled. the milwaukee tilt-lok has been on the top of the list for close to 6 years
> 
> one thing not mentioned in the article is that the life expectancy of the motors in these saws. consumer reports tested a bunch of different saws and the tilt-lok averaged 700 + hours before the motor burned out, the next best was porter cable i believe at 125 hours. i can vouch for this as one contractor i worked for had 3 makita's die while the tilt-lok was still going strong
> 
> im currently considering picking up a worm-drive saw for a work saw or the new corded 6 1/4 ridgid for cutting panels


Correct, it was recalled, something to do with the lower blade guard....it was fixed however and is no longer an issue. There are so many brands out there and each has so many different features, choosing a saw is really almost a personal thing....I would just go around and feel out a few different brands and watch for brands coming out with new stuff....Makita just came out with a new saw.


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