# Cedar wood stained -



## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

I just asked the guru...

be patient, grasshopper.. and we shall learn the truth together.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

You're probably not old enough to remember...

But when Olympic first came out with "overcoat" (a latex stain) in the 70's, their TV commercial had an old guy on a horse saying: "whoa there pardner...you can't stain over paint!" And the painter replied something like: "welp, I can now!"

The differences between acrylic paint and acrylic stain are few.

Oil based semi-transparent stains are a whole different story.


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

Don't forget that there are now semi acrylics too.. confused yet??


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

..and is there REALLY any difference between drywall primer, and the thinned latex flat paint that ya have leftover in a 5 out in yer garage?


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

SW A100 Exterior Oil Prime & A100 Exterior acrylic later top coat. Sounds like a plan?


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

OK by me, Plazaman


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

for what it's worth...

Here's B&A of stained drop channel cedar, primed and painted


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## mjay (Feb 2, 2006)

*The homes in the Chicago area (at least the hoods I am working in) are built with cedar and with acrylic stain form the git go(usually factory applied).. We don't have the rustic look here. So the cedar was primed and coated prior to be re coating them. Why would I take the step to prime when it has solid acrylic on them all ready.*

"A little thing we like to call insurance my friend." Can't remember the movie.
Anywho! A coat of long dry oil primer if there's the slightest hint of tannin bleed through to ensure a lasting finish with no call backs. With the factory finish stuff , you can be certain it's been back primed, and if your really lucky dipped in a preservative, thus no worries re bleeding.

Steve, wonderful picture of the before and after, did you cut down the tree blocking the view from the deck as well?


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## mjay (Feb 2, 2006)

plazaman said:


> now what is the main difference between a stain and paint? just the fact paint covers more?


In a very small nutshell

Stain - Penetrating oil and acrylics available. Very dissimilar to paint.
Film forming acrylic stain. Not that dissimilar.

I said it was a small nutshell!


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

thanks guys, this is why i love the forums. Info on demand by pros!


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

Steve, nice pictures looks good even being the same color you can tell it got coated. 

I always never get true satisfaction from a job unless I change the color and can really see the difference makes the place look totally different.


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

Heres a b/a of cedar that was peeling bad it had only been done 3 yrs prior. we use a slow dry oil tinted to the approx top color (for siding & white for overhangs) scraped where needed primed 100% and top coat w/ Cabot's Pro VT


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

MakDeco said:


> I always never get true satisfaction from a job unless I change the color and can really see the difference makes the place look totally different.


Yeah, well...the color selection wasn't exactly left up to me. In fact that's the South side, it matched closer on the rest of the "cabin".


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

mjay said:


> *Steve, wonderful picture of the before and after, did you cut down the tree blocking the view from the deck as well?*


*

HA..Good eyes, mjay.

I hadn't even noticed it was missing! The before pictures where in the fall, and I did the job the following Summer. Looks like that tree was dead though (huge pine beetle problem here).*


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Let me ask you guys this, what do you guys use, brush alone or brush & roll? here is a pic of the home.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

To prime it?

Personally, I'd roll and back brush it into the channels (keeping a roller in one hand and a brush in the other. Don't ask me how you're gonna hang onto the ladder). You could also spray it and back brush.

Same w/ the solid stain (or paint).


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

Plaza did you finalize the product choice?


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

MakDeco said:


> Plaza did you finalize the product choice?


A100 Oil Prime A100 TopCoat. Roll & backbrush sounds good. Too many windows to cover. by the time i cover windows, we could roll it out quickly. not the mention the overspray and the oil...


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

I might try doing the cut-ins and channels first, and then just rolling.

Depends on how rough it is, how ya bid it, and what kind of flashing you get.

Might be worth a try at least.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

Looks like a pretty easy/ simple job.


..but of course they all do from here!:w00t:


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

I would roll and then brush channels as well. Good luck.

I know a lot guys out there would say spray it all!


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

Yeah...looks like it's sitting there all by itself in the boonies.

Are the window casings getting painted?

gutters and downspouts?


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

down spouts yes, casings no. Flashing? What do you mean? We started brushing the channels first, then realize it better to roll then cut the channels because when you roll, it will run into the channels.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

Flashing's what *I* call it when you can tell the difference between where the brush and roller have been, because it dried different.
Less common on rough wood.

But some of these guys (like Mak) know more about this stuff than me...and are also probably not just trying to build their post count.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

seems like ext. flat latex on smooth~semi-rough surfaces is most apt to, too.


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## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

211, eh?

sweet


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## Alta (Apr 3, 2008)

Check out Flood solid stain, great adhesion.


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