# Cutting installed tile?



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

Customer bought wrong countertop, said make it fit. Wtf? How do i cleanly demo this? chisel it? specialty blade for sawzall?


----------



## skillman (Sep 23, 2011)

Grinder with diamond wheel . Tile cutting bit with roto zip or dermal tool .


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

dang. no cheap fix. oh well, change order time...


----------



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I haven't done it, but I'm thinking you could score it with a carbide tile wheel, then tap the low piece gently with the back of a nail set. I would think it would break nice and clean. Then pry up the low piece. 

If you give it a try, please report back the results!


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

multimaster with a diamond blade would surely work - a little slow, but precise.


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

getting ready to tackle it. May have figured out an alternative by raising the cabinet & removing 1 whole row of tile.


----------



## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

I would remove the last cut piece and then after counter install install new cut tiles from full tiles down to counter tops. Those look like 4x4 you can get anywhere.


----------



## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

Those tiles are 50 cents each. Why cut any of them?
edit; to answer your question I would cut with a diamond blade on my angle grinder with the shop vac hooked up.


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

No materials. I aint buyin shiat for this place. Sorry but they pissed me off and bought blank doors to hang, now i'm chiseling out hinges and (as always) they never hang right. Just spent $50 on tools because my chisels were damaged by a helper unknown to me until i got them outta the toolbag...

frustrating day, aAaargh

I need off this job. What should took an hour is now eating my profit margins on this one.


----------



## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Tell the HO that you'll set the top, then retile their obama'd tile on the wall too.....


----------



## Dave in Pa (Oct 10, 2009)

Spend a few bucks! take the bottom row of tile off, buy some UGLY pink/green/purple/chit, install it, and say "that looks fantastic, what do ya think?"


----------



## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

I dress my chisels on my angle grinder in a pinch. hang in there, and learn a lesson on how you got porked, and how to prevent it from happening again.


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

ArtisanRemod said:


> I dress my chisels on my angle grinder in a pinch. hang in there, and learn a lesson on how you got porked, and how to prevent it from happening again.


amen! ha yeah no kidding. I gotta turn two more units by friday. So at least i'll make it up on the next one.


----------



## tyb525 (Feb 26, 2013)

Use a router for the hinges, much easier


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

i havent had to chisel out hinges in eons. thought everyone bought them ready to hang


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

Done deal.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

These are rentals...huh...


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Driftweed said:


> i havent had to chisel out hinges in eons. thought everyone bought them ready to hang


Just curious, if it's a slab, how do they know how to cut the hinges and 
bores????? 

Or does a shop come out and measure and then you just pick-up and pin them???

Curious if different parts of the country work differently

Best


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

I get em all drilled out normally . holes basically go in the same spot. I can pick em up even at home cheapo ready to hang.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Driftweed said:


> *I get em all drilled out normally . holes basically go in the same spot.* I can pick em up even at home cheapo ready to hang.


Yes Drift....* I figured they were drilled/routed normally with holes basically/specifically going in the same spot*....but who is the mill shop and how do they know the specs.

Drift.... I know it sounds stupid... but do you take the doors into HD, or call out your dimensions....... or do you take the old doors into a mill shop that works for HD?????

*I've just never heard of a slab door coming ready to hang*..... unless you call a carpenter/mill shop and ask them to do it for you....

Drift.... I'm not trying to be an AH..... I hang alot of slabs (several hundred +..area I do a lot of work in was production built with cheap ass flat panels)... and if I could order a pre routed/bore door.... I would sure like too. (Almost all remodels here call out new doors)


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

No prob dude. All I do is measure height & width. 

your typical door is 80" tall so all you need is say a 32" wide door. So I just go to depot and grab a 32" door (hollow core or steel entry). Go check it out in the morning. 

Theyre not fancy just cookie cutter doors.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Drift.... Still never heard of it.... You must live in a very standardized area, or are replacing the same manufacturer with a same manufacturere door of different style.

I can buy (on some models) a pre-bored slab (not mortised) but then have to measure out my mortises relative to the bore... or just likely redo the jamb lock set.

If you could buy them pre-mortised, assuming they were a fit, you'd have to buy them LH or RH.

It's easier just to buy a straight slab... and mortise and bore it to the existing jambs.

Thanks.... Just never seen it.

Best

Peter


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

no prob & your right you do get left or rightys. I'll be at home depot tomorow, will see if i can snap a pic.


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

tadah! no more chiseling


----------



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Driftweed,

I need that door slab with metal cladding on one side (outside) only. Have you seen it off the shelf, by any chance?
(6-panel, no light, exterior door, 3'0", right inswing.)

Just wondering how often you move strike plates when replacing with one of those. Probably often, right?


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Replacing the tile would be a last resort. You will never get the color or size close enough to match. 

I know it's done, but I would have gently removed the row. Installed the top and cut and installed the removed tiles. Everything would match.


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

Tnt: i generally dont deal with tile, so i wasnt tooled for this little "surprise". I wound up taking out the enire row with a chise and raising the whole assembly up 1/2". I only went that route bexause luckily the cabinet was not secured. Looks like I got some specialty blades to buy. 

I don't do tile because it is so easy to eff up and look horrible. One day I will learn, but overall theres not much demand in my market for it (rentals).


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

mark, i honestly don't pay attention. I may hang a door once every 3 months. I do know i can get it in steel entry or interior. If its steel, its steel on both sides. 

But as i tell my clients, if i'm chiseling it gonna be slower and wind up costing the same as if I weren't. Generally they just want a door, & dont care about style.

I'm currently makung the same case for repairing jambs. Either way it's gonna cost ya $120.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Driftweed said:


> Tnt: i generally dont deal with tile, so i wasnt tooled for this little "surprise". I wound up taking out the enire row with a chise and raising the whole assembly up 1/2". I only went that route bexause luckily the cabinet was not secured. Looks like I got some specialty blades to buy.
> 
> I don't do tile because it is so easy to eff up and look horrible. One day I will learn, but overall theres not much demand in my market for it (rentals).


Knowing your limitations is one of the keys to success, and so is expanding your knowledge base.


----------



## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> These are rentals...huh...


Could you tell by the cheap arse vanity? 
Or by the lipstick on that pig new top....then figure out how to do the in-fill....on your own dime?

If people figure out their real hourly wage for obama work like this, I'd bet it'd be $10-$12/hr range. Oh, and that's not even after their real expenses for being self employed....ya know, the "rich business owners" are deducted...... 

Rentals, hotel/motels, tourist areas seem like little more than the scam called 'property preservation'....but it's always the same stinking units and the same stinking owner(s).....


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

One day I'll try out tile. I've honestly learned alot from the tiling forum. Just too chicken to actually do it. That aint a cheap screwup (tilework) and thats what spooks me.

Surprisingly, they authorized a change order for 2 hrs labor this morning, just not the doors. I'm liking these guys (guess that means the knife is coming soon haha).


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Drift.... Still never heard of it.... You must live in a very standardized area, or are replacing the same manufacturer with a same manufacturere door of different style.
> 
> I can buy (on some models) a pre-bored slab (not mortised) but then have to measure out my mortises relative to the bore... or just likely redo the jamb lock set.
> 
> ...





Driftweed said:


> tadah! no more chiseling
> 
> View attachment 99800
> 
> ...


Drift.... Thank You for the photo and discussion.:thumbsup:

If that is not just a steal/fiberglass exterior door.... it must be a regional issue. Your area must have some kinda standard manufacturer prevalent where they can stock slabs pre-mortised.

I got so curious I was going by my BIG HD, not closest but biggest as to stock in Denver, and talked with 10 year employee on the millwork desk.

He told me unequivacally, that the only pre-mortized stock door carried was , of course, steel exterior. They did not even carry slabs pre-mortised in their house brand Jeldwen... in any profile/relief.

I did learn something though.... on many of their special order slabs, you can call out mortizing and bore... for an up-charge of 20 to 25.

Spec out LH/RH, hinge size, each/every (2 or3) hinge/mortises by distance from top of door to top of mortise by 1/64, and lockset bore to OC from top of door.

I see what you sent.... and believe you...just can't comprehend how anyone can supply pre-mortise'd slab as there is no industry standard , plus you would have to stock LH/RH also... (there are some rules of thumb... like bore at 36".. but that's just a rule of thumb.)

Maybe it's regional in that major suppliers in your area have some standardization. For instance, Cali HD's stock Federal Pacific breakers... and Colorado does not know what you're talking about.

Best to ya... .

Peter


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

Were all in this together. If I can enlighten someone, so be it. After all I have learned here its nice to have something to contribute.

Next I'm at depot I'll research doors further. Apparently, theres alot i dont know about doors,


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

CO762 said:


> Could you tell by the cheap arse vanity?
> Or by the lipstick on that pig new top....then figure out how to do the in-fill....on your own dime?
> 
> If people figure out their real hourly wage for obama work like this, I'd bet it'd be $10-$12/hr range. Oh, and that's not even after their real expenses for being self employed....ya know, the "rich business owners" are deducted......
> ...


I do quite a bit of reno on rentals - T&M at $50/hr, which is the high end around here. Needless to say, the people who use me aren't interested in having a chithole, they're interested on having someone who understands old buildings and how to restore / reno them and blend it together.

The problem with keeping tile is you're stuck with the quality of the original install. Driftweed got lucky - in similar situations I'll use a diamond blade in a circ saw to get a clean edge. Next choice is diamond blade in an angle grinder, but it's way too easy to have a little waiver in the cut.


----------



## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

I'm with ya davis, i pulled that one out of my ass. Each time i hit that chisel i cringed a little. Definitely buying a blade for the future.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Driftweed said:


> I'm with ya davis, i pulled that one out of my ass. Each time i hit that chisel i cringed a little. Definitely buying a blade for the future.


Yeah, that too. I was actually thinking about what you'd do if it was 3 1/2" of tile showing:laughing:


----------



## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

hdavis said:


> I do quite a bit of reno on rentals - T&M at $50/hr, which is the high end around here. Needless to say, the people who use me aren't interested in having a chithole, they're interested on having someone who understands old buildings and how to restore / reno them and blend it together.


Yet another example of how different regions/states/cities are. :thumbsup:
I figure maine is the place for NE money to summer, so it'd be different than say another water oriented vacation spot, say, I dunno....brain fart. Branson?

I think it all comes down to money. If there's a lot of turnover there, then it's turn and burn, gettem in, get their money and get them out. People don't go to branson to experience the old world charm and a slower life. I've been in hotels that have plywood showers, frp showers, concrete pans/floors, etc. and have been like that for 50 years...and no one cares. They aren't there for the ambiance....or maybe that's part of the charm?

Different areas value things differently. And strangely rustic is regional, sometimes sought out charm, other times to be avoided and scorned.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

CO762 said:


> Yet another example of how different regions/states/cities are. :thumbsup:
> I figure maine is the place for NE money to summer, so it'd be different than say another water oriented vacation spot, say, I dunno....brain fart. Branson?
> 
> I think it all comes down to money. If there's a lot of turnover there, then it's turn and burn, gettem in, get their money and get them out. People don't go to branson to experience the old world charm and a slower life. I've been in hotels that have plywood showers, frp showers, concrete pans/floors, etc. and have been like that for 50 years...and no one cares. They aren't there for the ambiance....or maybe that's part of the charm?
> ...


LOL, it's really a mix around here. There are people who can't stand anything if it isn't new. Then you have the people who love Victorians, Federals, Rustic etc. What they look for is a definite style that suits their taste. Then there are the people that as long as the shanty is standing, life is good. 

There isn't much full restoration around here, but there is quite a bit of partial restoration. Kitchens are always telling. Some people will keep the original stick built (built in place) cabinets, even when it's way more expensive than tear out and new cabs. Lots of wide molding with back bands, etc. Custom molding reproductions are a price jumping off point in any reno.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

CO762 said:


> I think it all comes down to money. If there's a lot of turnover there, then it's turn and burn, gettem in, get their money and get them out.


Turnover is a killer. You can't have high turnover in original architectural detail high end units, it's too difficult to replace some of the stuff. So there's a trade off in any remodel. New baths are pretty much a necessity, and bath doors get broken more often than any other, so one of those HD slabs cut / bored to fit the existing opening is a practical solution. I'd expect them to last 3-5 years, tops.

On a bedroom with all the fancy trim, keeping the original door is important, so the room has the correct style throughout. If one of those gets smashed, you have to find another old one that's basically identical. I only recall one smashed beyond repair, and it's in storage with all the original hardware.


----------



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

lol 4x4 white tiles are the cheapest thing possible, just pull the last tile and put new after the counter.


----------



## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

plazaman said:


> lol 4x4 white tiles are the cheapest thing possible, just pull the last tile and put new after the counter.


But finding the right white color is the trick.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

olzo55 said:


> But finding the right white color is the trick.


So true!


----------

