# Cypress Siding 2 coats TWP (natural) application technique 4,000 sq ft. Advice



## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

I attempted to post more pics but it kept saying "failure to upload" . I do not have a lot of experience with these types of exteriors this will be my first one like this. I have done decks and fences over the years with TWP so a little familiarity with that. The wood is Cypress siding. It has been up for about 6 months here in Nebraska and the GC wants 2 coats of TWP natural and there is $4,500 sq ft of siding.This house pops "back and forth" all the way around between the stucco siding which is blue and needs covered up and the cypress siding. I want to put this on with an airless for best production rate (assuming) i have heard some people don't like the airless idea because of atomizing the colorant. assuming this won't be much of an issue with "natural" TWP although the GC said natural does have a tint. Am i going to have to back brush both coats ? to avoid lap marks from the gun ? assuming i should not put a roller on it for obvious reasons ? i did wonder about rolling horizontally "with" the siding like one would do on a deck ? but this is a 3,300 sq ft million dollar house on a lake and needs to look top notch. Any advice/opinions/experience would be greatly appreciated.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

The stakes are too high to guess on that house.

Build a tester panel and try some different techniques.

If it was me, I think I would use a 6 inch purdy whiz roller to back roll. Working off planks, or little giants you could coat and back roll pretty quickly.

Dont half ass it.

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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

sparehair said:


> The stakes are too high to guess on that house.
> 
> Build a tester panel and try some different techniques.
> 
> ...


Yeah the house is only like 12 ft high  thanks for your opinion


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## PNW Painter (Sep 2, 2016)

Spray and back brush with a large stain brush. Use something like a 310 tip and hold the gun about 6" from the surface. This helps to minimize overspray and drips compared to working out of a bucket.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

sparehair said:


> Build a tester panel and try some different techniques.
> 
> If it was me, I think I would use a 6 inch purdy whiz roller to back roll. Working off planks, or little giants you could coat and back roll pretty quickly.


Getting a test panel is a good idea. 

Production work like this is beyond backrolling using a whiz roller.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

Caslon said:


> Getting a test panel is a good idea.
> 
> Production work like this is beyond backrolling using a whiz roller.


Yeah, a six inch brush is way faster than a six inch roller.

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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

It needs back rolled or brushed

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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

Going to have to brush BOTH coats i am assuming or is there a way out of that ?


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Check out the TWP web site. There is a lot of info there on application and about two coats.

Maybe it would be best to speak with them to answer your questions and come up with a plan.


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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

griz said:


> Check out the TWP web site. There is a lot of info there on application and about two coats.
> 
> Maybe it would be best to speak with them to answer your questions and come up with a plan.


I found that and i am going to call them just to get their insight also, thank you


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Fastest brushing I ever did was with a soft natural bristle push broom cut down in width. Fence work, and I think you'd want a different looking brush stroke for that wall.


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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

hdavis said:


> Fastest brushing I ever did was with a soft natural bristle push broom cut down in width. Fence work, and I think you'd want a different looking brush stroke for that wall.


Very interesting, thanks


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

I've seen commercial jobs like that where they just sprayed it. I never saw guys trying to back roll or brush it while spraying it. The OP should maybe take a close up picture of the siding so we can tell how smooth or rough it is.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

I'm also saying buildings like these get repainted every 7 years anyways. They're on a schedule for repaints, usually mandatory.

While it might be excellent to back roll or brush this job, today's competitive painting methods (here on the left cost) forgoes brushing or backrolling,
with equal success and reliability. If I were to bid that job backrolling or brushing , I would be outbid by more than one, easily. And their siding paint job would do fine and look ok. Maybe not fantastic, maybe not as good looking as laboriously backrolling or brushing. 

That's how it is out here. The demand for super duper quality has taken a back seat to economic reality on jobs like these. It has for some time now.

Out here, jobs like the one depicted (OP pic) are sprayed. Sprayed.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

If that gc cant afford $500 so a helper can backroll then WTFFF?!!

Whats the going rate for stain grade siding? .35 a foot? Including material at .20 per foot?

Have I mentioned I dont fing paint anymore?

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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

sparehair said:


> If that gc cant afford $500 so a helper can backroll then WTFFF?!!
> 
> Whats the going rate for stain grade siding? .35 a foot? Including material at .20 per foot?
> 
> ...


I am not sure what you mean about "If that gc cant afford $500 so a helper can backroll then WTFFF?!!" ??? i am not sure what you are talking about ? the GC hired ME. I was asking for application advice. No mention of money. I am at $1.00 a square ft which includes materials but that is cheap here.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

402 Painting said:


> I am not sure what you mean about "If that gc cant afford $500 so a helper can backroll then WTFFF?!!" ??? i am not sure what you are talking about ? the GC hired ME. I was asking for application advice. No mention of money. I am at $1.00 a square ft which includes materials but that is cheap here.


Thats what Im saying. I dont know if youre bidding off wall or foot print square footage. But it sounds like your painting a million dollar house, twice, for maybe 3 or four grand.

At those prices you cant afford a helper, or doing the job right, or being safe and careful. I know because I tried to make a living at painting for five years at those prices. Hell YOU cant even afford to touch the paint with a brush.

I remember I bid a 3k square foot office space with twenty different offices, oil prime and paint all ceilings for 4k. I was beaten by half including material.

And thats why I dont fing paint anymore.

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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Painting is all about materials costs and being fast. Primer and paint I usually use $15-25 / gal paint and primer. All spray, or roll primer and spray the rest.

This project, I'd just spray. Back rolling or back brushing is supposed to get rid of any pinholes you may get from imperfections in the wood. It's more of a problem with a thick paint than a thin stain. If you're worried about pinholes, only the first coat would need back rolling or back brushing, not the second.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

hdavis said:


> Fastest brushing I ever did was with a soft natural bristle push broom cut down in width. Fence work, and I think you'd want a different looking brush stroke for that wall.


I used to use a fruit sprayer combined with a fruit sprayer + compressor + presure regulator. Then brush out with a small broom head like hdavis referenced.

Today I would just use a paint pot with about a 5ft ext wand added fruit sprayer nozzle. The light pressure spray gets it on everything at all angles, & the broom brush gives max penetration, & even application.


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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

sparehair said:


> The stakes are too high to guess on that house.
> 
> Build a tester panel and try some different techniques.
> 
> ...


When you say whiz roller which cover exactly and nap length are you suggesting ? and obviously this would have to be rolled horizontal as opposed to vertical correct ?


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