# Retrofit for anchor bolts



## confluencebuild (Jan 4, 2009)

One of my projects has non corrosion resistant hardware(anchor bolts) in contact with pressure treated wood(they were there when I got there, I do know better). Installed about five years ago they are already showing signs of deterioration. 

Anybody have any bright ideas, besides drilling new holes and retro bolts or simpson UFP's? I'm hoping for an out of the box idea that could save the home owners some money. 

This is in California's earthquake country, seismic zone 4.


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## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

Hey there Con if your lookin for an answer, you need some kind of description in reguards to your project. in fact the better or more detailed your description the better/more detailed your responses might be


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## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

Engineers in California have taken really quite well to the use of Titan HD's from Simpson, a little pricey but the ease of use makes it all worth while.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Put plastic hose around the bolt, use SS washer.


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## confluencebuild (Jan 4, 2009)

OK, a little more detail, the mudsill is Pressure treated, not sure what formula, acza? The anchor bolts are not galvanized. According to the 2001 California Building Code, the adopted code of the time, fastners of PT lumber need to be corrosion resistant, not the case here. 

The bolts, washers and nuts are starting to rust and show signs of decay. Seriously, they look like they've been there much longer than they have. 

The clearance is not great, it varies from maybe a foot to three feet. The clearance being the distance from the top of the foundation to the bottom of the floor system. So in some locations one could drill a hole through the mudsill and into the foundation and install a retro bolt with epoxy or with the titan(threaded bolt for "screwing" into concrete) but most of the clearance is to tight for that application. 

Im not sure how one could get a sleeve around the bolt, the holes through the mudsill are already drilled, this house is and has been done for about five years. The annular space should be minimal around the bolt too, hopefully not greater than 1/8".

Thanks for the input so far.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Sound like you have a few options. If I could get to them easily I would use a little hole saw and go around the bolt so I could sleve it. Not real expensive in materials but labor intensive, not quite as intensive as boring all new holes.


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## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

I like that idea, a right angle drill with a hole saw (wo/pilot bit) just big enough to to slide over the bolt and ream the hole just enough to accommodate the sleeve. The question is where would you find one deep enough. You would need a 3/4" x 2 1/4" min. right?
Maybe here?
http://business.vsnl.com/toolcentre/holesaws.htm


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Yeah if it was just big enough to go around the bolt that would give you plent of room to put a piece of plastic tubing around it and then install a SS waser and nut.


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## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

here's a question! it might be better served run through the "chemistry forum" but!!! considering how large this problem with the new preservatives looms in the industry, don't you think that someone could make a decent amount of coin if they concocted a neutralizer for the heavy metals in the preservatives? you know like an acid/base type dealio that you could brush on anywhere there is a hardware connection:thumbsup: Holy cow its,, its genius. 10% that's what i want, 10%:w00t: Seriously though any chemists out there with some input?


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## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

i'm serious about the 10% too


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Spray prime, then spray liquid copper coating? hmm.... good thought.


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## confluencebuild (Jan 4, 2009)

Great Ideas Guys, I like the custom hole saw idea. After I call 00 91 22 3453999/3443999/3428582:blink: and talk to :blink: Ill wait 2 months for it. 
OK, Im sorry its the best solution so far, that just the funkiest website ever!


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## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

I just googled "extra deep hole saw" and a few popped up, that was at the top. Hell, now I'm thinking it might even be possible to weld a shaft onto a piece of 3/4" EMT (metal conduit) and cutting some teeth into the end with a dremel. It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional right? 

Plenty of local welders that can do that. Well, maybe I'm thinking too far outside the box at this point but it's late.:whistling


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## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

I'm gonna piggyback on the holesaw post and add this; the chemical reaction between the dissimilar metals is greatly expidited by moisture,short story is i learned this the hard way. anyways if the anchor bolts are new then the concrete is new no?? that being said if you were to apply the holesaw technique..., then rather than a sleeve you put some tape over your threads then take say 1" x 1" piece of pipe and place it over the bolt and resting on the plate this would give you a temporary resavoir in wich you could pour in some epoxy. the concept behind the resavoir is so that you can add a little excess epoxy and allow it to wick down and cover the entire bolt. this would eliminate moisture, contact,and im only guessing on this one but oxygen is often a great catylist for reactions. good luck any way you go


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## essrmo (May 2, 2007)

if it has already passed final inspection it is a non-issue. to make the ho feel more comfy you can offer band aid solutions or,
to keep the house from sliding or jumping off the foundation, 
reccommend 18" x #5 epoxy coated rebar dowells, no more than 4' OC and no more than 2' from each corner, drilled through the PT mud sill and 10-12" into the concrete. Vacuum out the holes, set in Simpsons 2 part epoxy system.


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## confluencebuild (Jan 4, 2009)

Parker,

Here's a related material, maybe a little simpler to install.

If your building new its simple enough to use the right hardware, but hey wrap this stuff around the bolts and your the shizzle.

Well, I cant post the link because I'm not cool enough. Anyway, just google "*Grace Vycor® Deck Protector® -- Corrosion Protection"*


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## essrmo (May 2, 2007)

confluencebuild said:


> Parker,
> 
> Here's a related material, maybe a little simpler to install.
> 
> ...


 i'm guessing you are full of shizzle. :thumbsup:


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## confluencebuild (Jan 4, 2009)

Ill take that as a complement


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## JTMcC (Dec 18, 2008)

WarriorWithWood said:


> I now I'm thinking it might even be possible to weld a shaft onto a piece of 3/4" EMT (metal conduit) and cutting some teeth into the end with a dremel. :whistling


 
Might work smoother if you cut the back out of a regular hole saw and make it deeper by welding a proper size tube or pipe to it. 
Then just weld a stub to chuck up, or weld the back of the original hole saw onto your extension and chuck it up.


JTMcC.


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## chris klee (Feb 5, 2008)

JTMcC said:


> Might work smoother if you cut the back out of a regular hole saw and make it deeper by welding a proper size tube or pipe to it.
> Then just weld a stub to chuck up, or weld the back of the original hole saw onto your extension and chuck it up.
> 
> 
> JTMcC.



that wouldnt be that hard to do. use a metal chop saw to to cut the top off the hole saw, get tubing to match size, and weld it in sections to avoid warping the crap out of it.


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## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

#5 rebar???????????? then what ?? bend it over??????


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## parkers5150 (Dec 5, 2008)

hey confluence i googled it and i will admit i didn't spend much time cuz their website sucks but if im not mistaken theirs is a wrwap product designed for pre installation purposes the reason i say that is because there are several if not more similar products listed in deck builder magazine. yours is obviously a retro fit but thanks for the hot tip anyways


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