# Door rough opening dimensions



## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Since the 70's, I've framed (or had framed) door rough openings 2-1/2" over. But jamb stock seems to have evolved from a full 3/4" to 5/8" thick or even less nowadays. Thinking of going to only 2" over. What are your practices?


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## MikeyJP1980 (Sep 30, 2011)

2” is all we have ever used! Works great for us!


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

I always get the product info on the door used Before rough and use that, plus shimming.


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## Hmbldr (Dec 7, 2011)

Likewise, learned at 2 1/2" and like it that way. This gives plenty of leeway to make the fit perfect plumb and shift to desired centering. Of course, we use mostly wider casings, 3 1/2" or larger, so the gap is always well covered.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Elyrain said:


> I always get the product info on the door used Before rough and use that, plus shimming.


Are you saying a 2'-8" door isn't always exactly 32" wide in your area? That thought never occurred to me. I can understand with windows - they're either actual or 1/2" under callout depending on the manufacturer.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Our interior doors get framed door size plus 2 1/4. Our suppliers doors are a full 36 or 32 plus reveal and they still use 3/4 jambs so 2 inch over gets a little tight at time. For exterior doors typically they are 2 1/4 over also per the ro specs from manufacturer.


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

I have always framed 2" over. It seems to work out pretty good.



Dave


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

I guess I should have prefaced my question with a recent experience with some volunteer work for H4H. I was assigned to hang six doors in the three bedrooms. The casing was the tiniest stuff I've ever seen - 1-13/16" wide.


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## I Mester (Aug 21, 2011)

we've always framed the rough opening 2" over the nominal dimension. never failed us.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

Have always framed 2" over.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

I frame 2" over most of the time, but if I'm not rushed and the planets are in proper alignment, I do 1 3/4 just because I can.


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

In GENERAL.....2". Exterior doors I go 1/2" wider, double doors 2-1/2, bypass actual to + 1 depending on the casing. 2-1/2 on the height every time. Lots of other variables like handicap accessible.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

I like 2 1/2. 2" is too tight, it only leaves about a 1/4 and that's too small to get the spray foam nozzle into.


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

txgencon said:


> Are you saying a 2'-8" door isn't always exactly 32" wide in your area? That thought never occurred to me. I can understand with windows - they're either actual or 1/2" under callout depending on the manufacturer.


I don't work on houses, commercial only. So yes I have made the mistake of the RO being to big or to small by using some generic addition. Never again. It doesn't take all that much time to find out the product info before hand.

I actually don't even remember the last time I installed a 2-8 door, maybe on a closet somewhere but everything is 3-0+ out here because of ADA.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

2 over 1 up, never fails. 3'0x6'8 and up go in like butter


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

txgencon said:


> Since the 70's, I've framed (or had framed) door rough openings 2-1/2" over. But jamb stock seems to have evolved from a full 3/4" to 5/8" thick or even less nowadays. Thinking of going to only 2" over. What are your practices?


I've always used 2" and never had an issue.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Tinstaafl said:


> I frame 2" over most of the time, but if I'm not rushed and the planets are in proper alignment, I do 1 3/4 just because I can.


:laughing::laughing:


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## 413Sean (Jan 6, 2012)

I go with 2 1/2"(width and height) on exterior doors and 2" on interior doors, usually allows ample shiming room


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## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

It depends on how plumb your walls are.

If they are real good 2" is enough.
I used to do 2 1/4, but since I started doing trim behind my framing ,I have cut it down to 2"


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