# Convert Ceiling grid to drywall



## RichardNoggen (Dec 5, 2007)

Is there a way to convert ceiling grid to support 1/4 0r 3/8 drywall or should I tear it out and frame with wood in basement?


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

If it wasn't designed to support it, tear it out. There are suspended grids for drywall available.


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## ponch37300 (Oct 22, 2007)

The ceiling grid itself, if hung correctly could support the weight of 1/4 inch drywall, they make vinylrock ceiling tiles that are about 3/8 inch thick drywall covered with vinyl. But don't hang drywall from it, ceiling grid is pretty flimsy and drywall needs a solid surface to hang from. You can frame the ceiling down or as mentioned above they make a suspended ceiling grid that is ridgid and gets screwed together that is meant for hanging drywall from. I have used them many times and they work great, ten times stronger then normal ceiling grid.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

We just hung 1/2 inch on an existing grid system. All you need to do is add more wire to the system and install RigidX supports in between the existing grid.

We did a 20 x 40 ceiling and it probably took one person 4-6 hours to upgrade the grid for the room.

If you figure the cost of tearing out the old grid, disposing of it, relocating utilities in the ceiling, building soffits, etc... Using the RigidX is the way to go.


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## Celtic (May 23, 2007)

RichardNoggen said:


> Is there a way to convert ceiling grid to support 1/4 0r 3/8 drywall .....


Wouldn't fire codes require a minimum of 1/2"?


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## milvesco (Dec 8, 2007)

Greg Di said:


> We just hung 1/2 inch on an existing grid system. All you need to do is add more wire to the system and install RigidX supports in between the existing grid.
> 
> We did a 20 x 40 ceiling and it probably took one person 4-6 hours to upgrade the grid for the room.
> 
> If you figure the cost of tearing out the old grid, disposing of it, relocating utilities in the ceiling, building soffits, etc... Using the RigidX is the way to go.


What is RigidX and where can I purchase it? Thank you.


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

milvesco said:


> What is RigidX and where can I purchase it? Thank you.


RIGID-X is made by USG. I would venture to guess that your local commercial drywall supplier has it in stock provided they sell USG products.


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## dc7730 (Oct 26, 2008)

Did you install just 2' or 4' cross tee's in an existing standard grid ceiling? how does the t' tie into the existing grid? what was the advantage ? why not just install the entire rigidx suspended ceiling? If you had an existing grid system in place why would you need to relocate utilities in the ceiling, build soffits, etc... could you explain a bit further?


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I installed 7/8'' hat channel to the grid, added a few braces tied to truss/joist and then hung 1/2'' drywall. :cowboy:

Now I see this started in 2007 :blink:


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## dc7730 (Oct 26, 2008)

Big Shoe said:


> I installed 7/8'' hat channel to the grid, added a few braces tied to truss/joist and then hung 1/2'' drywall. :cowboy:
> 
> Now I see this started in 2007 :blink:


Ok makes sense, you just supported an existing grid system with more wire, say 12 guage , then screw hat channel directly to it. Then screw the 1/2" drywall to the hat channel, easy enough and works for me... thanks
Yep Old Post, I can't find new post regarding this age old problem. Most guys say just install new ceiling tile because you need access to utilities, I wonder how many of these guys have two story homes with drywall over the utilities on second floor, if access is so important why not suspend all ceilings????
your method works fine for me ...tks


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## dc7730 (Oct 26, 2008)

whats the best way to attach hat channel to drop ceiling grid ? maybe a clip or? screw ? wire tie? anybody have a suggestion?


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## jar546 (Aug 13, 2013)

Normally there are lots of junction boxes and plumbing valves along with other equipment above drop ceilings. Did you verify that there is nothing that is required to be accessible or readily accessible before you placed gypsum over that?

If this is a house, probably not a big deal if you simply add more supports. If this is a commercial job, you will need a sign off by a registered design professional showing that not only does the grid support the weight but that what supports the grid can support the weight.

As far as a "fire code", there are so many variables to this is does not matter. If this is a sprinklered building and you do this, there may be other complications.

So residential, it is much easier to do this if properly executed and you are not hiding electrical, plumbing and mechanical items.

In commercial, way too many things to think about.


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## dc7730 (Oct 26, 2008)

Its residential, million dollar plus home, and should not have suspended ceilings anywhere.
I know of no valid reasons people use for the Drywall vs. Suspended ceiling debate other than access to things they probably will never access, and in case of a leak then cut a hole do the repair and patch it like it never happened in the first place like you would do on your upper levels.
Valves etc. are easily moved or simple access doors can be installed. The cost of drywall or work involved is no more complex than installing a drop ceiling.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

dc7730 said:


> whats the best way to attach hat channel to drop ceiling grid ? maybe a clip or? screw ? wire tie? anybody have a suggestion?



7/16 pan head screws


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## ubcguy89 (Mar 23, 2013)

Go to a local commercial wholesale building supplier and ask for Chicago grid. They guys there will know what your talking about and will hook you up. Get 1 1/2'' track for your wall mold and #9 tie wire DO NOT USE BAILING WIRE. Also this type of ceiling generally goes in after your walls are hung


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

dc7730 said:


> Its residential, million dollar plus home, and should not have suspended ceilings anywhere.
> I know of no valid reasons people use for the Drywall vs. Suspended ceiling debate other than access to things they probably will never access, and in case of a leak then cut a hole do the repair and patch it like it never happened in the first place like you would do on your upper levels.
> Valves etc. are easily moved or simple access doors can be installed. The cost of drywall or work involved is no more complex than installing a drop ceiling.


You obviously do little or no repair or renovation work then. 

Costs for adding electrical circuits or fixing plumbing leaks, etc. go up substantially when I have to work around a drywall or plaster ceiling....

I don't disagree a plaster or drywall ceiling often looks much nicer, but save that for the main floor living and second floor areas.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

svronthmve said:


> You obviously do little or no repair or renovation work then. Costs for adding electrical circuits or fixing plumbing leaks, etc. go up substantially when I have to work around a drywall or plaster ceiling.... I don't disagree a plaster or drywall ceiling often looks much nicer, but save that for the main floor living and second floor areas.


Not to mention any junction boxes have to be accessible, not by cutting drywall either. So if there's junction boxes up there you can't just bury them, legally that is.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

There is actually a compromise. You can have a mostly drywall ceiling, with decorative panels as well.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

You may also look at a catalog of ceiling tiles. There are lots of different designs to choose from, some really neat stuff


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

it could be done. a drywall grid needs cross tees every 2 ft. stronger wire and compression posts. make sure the perimeter angle is screwed off to the wall


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