# Safely Removing Granite Counter & Backsplash ? Ever Done?



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

I have to rip out base cabinets in a kitchen due to sandy flooding. The counters are beautiful granite counters, with granite backsplash slabs, and even a window sill with granite trim around it.


I already notified the customer that I assume no liability for the removal, but based your experience, has anyone ever safely removed and reinstalled granite in a situation like this?


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Sure. Silicone is probably the adhesive. Just don't pry where you shouldn't pry. Maybe get your granite counter guy out there?


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Use a multitool with the scraper attachment. Run that around all the edges up inside the cabinet. As you move along use some shims to give you little up pressure. Have plenty of help to lift off the cabinets!! Good luck!


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Kent Whitten said:


> Sure. Silicone is probably the adhesive. Just don't pry where you shouldn't pry. Maybe get your granite counter guy out there?



I'd be calling my granite guy too. 


I can see your dilemma.......Everybody is swamped with the storm damage.


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## DavidC (Feb 16, 2008)

Granite, no. But it would be similar to concrete, which I've done.

First step is to make certain that your client understands that it is probably going to break and assume it needs to be replaced. You'll do what you can to salvage it, but no promises. 

The silicone is most likely a dab here and there. Locate as much as you can beforehand by looking from underneath. We used a beehive tool (flat, thin pry bar) and putty knives to tap through the silicone where ever possible.

Do not pry anywhere.

Tap in your tool to break the silicone, set a shim with out forcing close to the tool and remove the tool. After you've cut all the silicone you could find you should have a number of shims in place that just separate the c-top and cabs. Tapping all of the shims a little at a time is the safest bet.

Separating from the back splash and silicone at the rear of the cabs is the real problem area. Baby steps and patience are the rule. You want to slide forward before lifting and there may be spots of adhesive you can't reach. On a straight slab I would try to drive a shim between the wall and c-top at one end to drive it out a bit. With an L slab you may not be able to.

If you are able to break it free and move it, make certain to stand it on edge before lifting. 

Really, really
Good Luck
Dave


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## Splinter (Apr 5, 2005)

Removed one 2 days ago without breakage... The standard out here is 3cm granite, so no plywood subcounters are used. You can get to the silicone at the back of the counter from underneath. I just used a painters 5-1 tool. 

I like Dave's idea with the shims... I just lifted little here, and then a little there to get all the silicone cut.


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

Also agree with the whims and multi tool with the caulking removal tool. Works great for me....


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

I replaced two base cabinets a while,back but it was Corian, not Granite, using the following method by taking the bottom cabinet out, placing a temp support inside (I used 2x6 on the flat with a reg jack) then broke the cabinet out ... cleaning the adhesive on the bottom of the counter... then installing a new cabinet in its place, then took the jack out, broke out another cabinet and put one in its place... 

So I was thinking if this method could work on the rest of the cabinets just working around, screwing them together as you go. I think that could work without taking the counter top out at all...The smaller counter top sections like near the stove can be removed and placed a side.

What you guys think?


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## oaks renovation (Jun 16, 2007)

If the granite has an sub-base of plywood I would remove the granite with the plywood intact then flip it over on a flat surface with a thick layer of dropclothes or the like take your circular saw and set it for the thickness of the plywood.

Then cut it multiple times into thin strips and then work the plywood off with a chisel or a five way that way it has constant support and your not flexing the granite at all. Come to think of it you could probably cut the top of the cabinet off with a sawsall or what ever and do the same procedure.


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## wellbuilt home (Oct 22, 2007)

I remove tops all the time . 
We hammer shims in all around every 6" 
Then keep taping around till the bond breaks . 

We remove the back splash the same way only 
place shines on the studs . 

watch the sink cabinet


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## kitking (Oct 8, 2012)

Whoaaa.....!!!!!!!

Is there a seam in the top????

Granite seams are epoxied together... If there is a seam you have to be very careful shimming... If the seam doesn't crack straight you can ruin the top... 

Like they said, you want to break the adhesion between the top and cabs... I use a flat putty knife and run it all around the perimeter.. The flat saw they were posting about prob is better, but I have never used that....

You need to remove the backsplash first. Btw.. Lol..

The once you have it good and loose, take a torch to the seam, you want to heat the epoxy... That way the epoxy will give, not he stone.. This is very important!!! If not, you'll crack the top instead which will break along fractures in the stone... 

Hope that help )))

Good luck


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## Kowboy (May 7, 2009)

plazaman:

There are sink support tools (aluminum rails with vaccum attachments) that are excellent in keeping sink tops from cracking during removal, but they are expensive if only seldom used.

A much less expensive, but very effective method, is to hot melt a 2x4 on edge a foot past the sink in each direction on the front and back. Place nickel-sized dabs every foot or so. Soak the hot melt in alcohol and tap off the 2x4's with a scraper after the top's been reinstalled. This will work with splashes too.

Joe


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## sogno/inc (Nov 23, 2012)

Kowboy said:


> plazaman:
> 
> There are sink support tools (aluminum rails with vaccum attachments) that are excellent in keeping sink tops from cracking during removal, but they are expensive if only seldom used.
> 
> ...


Actually I have done both for ur counter top if u have 2 sections where they meet u want to use a grinder with a thin blade and cut the woody out and carry out once removed from cabinets. Backsplash you want to use a trowel and screwdriver litely tap the screw driver till the pieces come off completely. And put the tiles in a bucket of water to soffin the thinset


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

sogno/inc said:


> Actually I have done both for ur counter top if u have 2 sections where they meet u want to use a grinder with a thin blade and cut the woody out and carry out once removed from cabinets. Backsplash you want to use a trowel and screwdriver litely tap the screw driver till the pieces come off completely. And put the tiles in a bucket of water to soffin the thinset


Caps, punctuation, paragraphs & spell-check can help make your input more credible.

.....just sayin'.....


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## Mr Latone (Jan 8, 2011)

I bought a high-end kitchen from a showroom display. The company was shutting down.

The kitchen had granite tops and full backsplash.

I am not suggesting the guys taking apart the showroom were qualified installers, but....

They broke the island top that had the sink cut out.

They broke one section where the cooktop cut out was.

The above cut outs are usually finished on site if I'm not mistaken? Leaving them partially intact from the fabricator makes transport damage less likely.

They ruined the seams where the three piece backsplash joined (seams chipped from pressure)

They replaced the whole shootin' match.

Anyway, the point is that extra care needs to be exercised.


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## skcolo (May 16, 2009)

I take them out all the time. We just reused 20cm quartz tops that were glued to plywood which was glued and nailed to the cabinets and we got it out without breaking anything. Like others have said, multitool, wedges and take your time.


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## DavidC (Feb 16, 2008)

svronthmve said:


> Caps, punctuation, paragraphs & spell-check can help make your input more credible.
> 
> .....just sayin'.....


JF is apparently on vacation. Thanks for stepping in for him.



Mr Latone said:


> The above cut outs are usually finished on site if I'm not mistaken? Leaving them partially intact from the fabricator makes transport damage less likely.
> 
> They ruined the seams where the three piece backsplash joined (seams chipped from pressure)
> 
> ...


Whenever we buy granite counter tops they always come 100% complete, no onsite finishing. Same as when we make the concrete counter tops.

We make certain to build crating that will take the stress of handling and extra care on installing these pieces. It takes an even higher level of care to uninstall with reuse in mind.

Good Luck
Dave


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