# Cutting Hardwood



## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

This is for the ones on here that install hardwood....or anyone that has knowledge of cutting hardwood.

Customer wants tile in front of their fireplace. There's hardwood there now that has to be cut out for a 2' x 7' space. What's the best way of cutting hardwood that's already in place?

The cut has to be nice because the tile will be flush with the hardwood.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

This is a good way.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f10/front-entry-way-112312/


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

What is that, a router with a vac attachment?

Looks pricey for a one day job.

I have a jig saw, but keeping the line straight could be tricky.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Jigsaw would probably be one of my last choices. Circular saw with a good blade and a straight edge would be a good choice.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Any router with a template and guide bushing will do.

Cutting that out and clean up took all of 10 minutes. Making the template involved a little more work. 

I like nice tools, my customers like nice work, that let's me afford those expensive tools.


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## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

I agree. Use a circular saw with a new blade and a guide. I definitely would not try to use a jig saw.


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Any router with a template and guide bushing will do.
> 
> Cutting that out and clean up took all of 10 minutes. Making the template involved a little more work.
> 
> I like nice tools, my customers like nice work, that let's me afford those expensive tools.


It definitely looks like the tool to use for cutting hardwood. Might be close to what I charged for the job though. :whistling


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

RhodesHardwood said:


> I agree. Use a circular saw with a new blade and a guide. I definitely would not try to use a jig saw.


A guide like blue tape?


Skill saw would work, except where the wood meets a step. Wouldn't be able to cut the hardwood all the way to the step.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Depending on the area and length of cut I would probably use a nice, straight 2x4, or an actual metal straight edge and a circular saw. Have two people stand on it, put bags of thinset on it, whatever you can to hold it still. Finish the corners with a chisel or a multi cutter.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Anything that is straight that your saw base can ride against like a poor mans rail saw. Use a straight 1x and screw it down on the inside so your holes will get removed when you tear that part out. Make sure the base of your saw is smooth so it doesnt scratch the floor. Finish the cuts with a fein tool where the saw cant get in.


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks Jeff, now all I need is a fein tool, lol.

I have something to get in the tight spots. Just have to fish it out of the garage.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

jkfox624 said:


> Finish the cuts with a fein tool where the saw cant get in.


If the router is too spendy, I bet there is no MM in the playbook.


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## tileman2000 (Feb 14, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> If the router is too spendy, I bet there is no MM in the playbook.


:laughing: yeah. Little more than I'd care to spend for one job. :whistling


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> If the router is too spendy, I bet there is no MM in the playbook.


Well using fein in the all around term. I've got one of the craftsman cordless ones like $60. Def isnt a fein but for all the more i use it gets the job done.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Well at least any tradesman can afford a circular saw and a set of sharp chisels-ok one would do too. As someone suggested nail a straight edge wood inside, tape to protect where you want to keep,cut with circular saw. Edges,corners etc. where you can not reach with the saw,score with razor knife and chisel out the rest.


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## ernesto (Apr 11, 2011)

Nothing is going to cut to a wall, you will need a multi-function tool at some point in time anyway. Also you can find fasteners with magnetic balls.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

SuperiorHIP said:


> Depending on the area and length of cut I would probably use a nice, straight 2x4, or an actual metal straight edge and a circular saw. Have two people stand on it, put bags of thinset on it, whatever you can to hold it still. Finish the corners with a chisel or a multi cutter.


Couldn't you just screw your straightedge to the part of the floor you were removing?


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Wasn't really picturing what the op's situation may be, of course you can screw to the part that is being removed if it is possible. I listed something I had to do once.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

I would use my Ts-55 and Supercut and be done in 10 minutes....or you can dick around with cheap tools for an hour and get waaaaay worse results. Maybe its just me, but I always look at those situations as an opportunity to get the tools I want/need so that next time there's not even a question of how I'm gonna handle it. If you honestly feel like there isn't gonna be a next time then why are you doing the job in the first place - let a pro do it...


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## ROVACON (Apr 19, 2010)

PrecisionFloors said:


> I would use my Ts-55 and Supercut and be done in 10 minutes....or you can dick around with cheap tools for an hour and get waaaaay worse results. Maybe its just me, but I always look at those situations as an opportunity to get the tools I want/need so that next time there's not even a question of how I'm gonna handle it. If you honestly feel like there isn't gonna be a next time then why are you doing the job in the first place - let a pro do it...


I agree 100%. Sure it is a bang to the pocket at first, but the minute you use the proper tools and get flawless results, the cost of the tool becomes irrelevant.

Having great tools (if you know how to use them) gives great results. I think that my TS55 and Fein MM are some of the best purchases that I have ever made.


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