# drywall to shower flange



## mbaker76 (Jan 12, 2009)

Going to do some minor repairs in an existing bath and have a problem around the tub.shower. The drywall is fixed to a stud about 10" away with no support directly behind either the board or the shower flange along the vertical edge of the surround so no fasteners here either, next stud is approximately 6" beyond the vertical edge. This leads to the board flexing independent of the tub/shower and breakdown of the edge finish, caulking, paint etc. I have considered pre drilling the flange and fastening the wall board to the flange of the shower to keep them from separating? I cant decide if this will cause other problems in movement flex, etc of the tub in use? Although probably not a lot different than laying the board up to the flange and then flat taping the gap, it ends up being a solid joint. I know best would be cut some openings and install some framing to backup both but I cant get that deep at this point.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

That surround was improperly installed. You are not going to effect a lasting repair without framing behind the flange.

Do it right or pass on the job.


----------



## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

What Tins said......If you can't open it up and add full framing support for that panel/flange then don't touch it. Screws are not going to hold in that flange for the wall board and you'll be taking a chance on cracking it into the exposed part even trying it.


----------



## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

There's hack ways to do it (like wood inserts behind DW to be able to screw your flange into) but you're better off doing it right... if you choose the inserts, be sure to tie a string around pipe (and if need be push the loop behind the bend) so when you push it into the cavity to be able to put the inserts in, you'll have a way to guide it back out...

Other option (more preferable) is to use an over-sized shower-flange... use a hole saw to cut a circle the inside diameter and depth of said flange; drill hole the size of pipe in center of circle; liquid nails insta-grab to back of circle and place pipe in center and attach to wall; place small shims (depth of flange so it touches back of flange after installing, L/R/T/B) between pipe and center hole to keep pipe from moving in and out and after drying and rigid, place flange on, drill small hole on top and bottom and screw... plenty rigid for your purposes... 

Nothing replaces doing it "right", but you get what you pay for... if they want a long-term solution, they need to pay for such...


----------



## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

I read it as the nailing flange on a fiberglass or Sterling type surround.?


----------



## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

dsconstructs said:


> I read it as the nailing flange on a fiberglass or Sterling type surround.?


I think you're right... 

I read that wrong based on the stud 10" in and 6"... thought he meant the shower head flange between the two... oopsie... well, at least you know a couple hacks should the occasion arise and they don't want to pay for the right fix... :whistling :laughing:


----------



## mbaker76 (Jan 12, 2009)

Yes it was the nailing flange I was referring too, sorry for any confusion.

Thanks for the replies. As I understand it is being cleaned up/fixed up for resale but I knew the best route was going to be to put some support behind the flange. Just wanted to see if anyone else had any luck doing something different.


----------



## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Clean it up and use a better caulk. 6'' is acceptable. Some things are better left alone.


----------



## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

I wouldn't call it acceptable, except for by the seller. But we all know cleaning and recaulking is how this is going to get "fixed"


----------



## mbaker76 (Jan 12, 2009)

The problem is the drywall does not sit tight to the flange, without blocking there is no way to pull everything together and secure it. I explained that we could clean and caulk, but as soon as someone leans puts pressure on the wall it will break the caulk loose and your back to square one. I have suggested a better solution and that I didn't feel comfortable any other way just patching it... Ill see what happens.


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Big Shoe said:


> Clean it up and use a better caulk. 6'' is acceptable. Some things are better left alone.





dsconstructs said:


> I wouldn't call it acceptable, except for by the seller. But we all know cleaning and recaulking is how this is going to get "fixed"


Yup.


----------



## trussme (Jan 18, 2013)

post a pic of this mess.


----------



## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

mbaker76 said:


> The problem is the drywall does not sit tight to the flange, without blocking there is no way to pull everything together and secure it. I explained that we could clean and caulk, but as soon as someone leans puts pressure on the wall it will break the caulk loose and *your* back to square one. I have suggested a better solution and that I didn't feel comfortable any other way just patching it... Ill see what happens.


It'll break his back?


----------



## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Drill a few small holes and fill the cavity with self expanding foam, cailk the joint and call it a day.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

m1911 said:


> Drill a few small holes and fill the cavity with self expanding foam, cailk the joint and call it a day.


I've foamed things in solid when I had to.:thumbsup:


----------



## mbaker76 (Jan 12, 2009)

No pictures but here is a sketch of section cut looking down through the wall and shower unit. Its the 1/16 flex that concerns me. 


I never considered foam....


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

You might not like to hear this, but ...

Bite the bullet and open up that wall to add some decent backing is the right way to fix that. Lille bit of drywall mud/tape/paint will fix it right up.


----------



## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Big Shoe said:


> Clean it up and use a better caulk. 6'' is acceptable. Some things are better left alone.



I wasn't paying attention to the first post. Cut open a 48''x 4-6'' between the top and bottom of the shower. Add a 2x4, stud to stud, horizontal, top bottom and center. Glue the backside. 

Or just leave it alone. :whistling


----------



## trussme (Jan 18, 2013)

Foam = $350.00
New Stud = $1300.00 (Maybe close to 2k if done with tile)


----------

