# attaching 2x4's to brick



## JPV123 (Sep 14, 2005)

I need to attached 2x4's on a flat to double thick brick walls so I can run electric and attach drywall. My question is can I use regular common lumber or do I need pressure treated lumber? I always use pressure treated for band boards and ledgers when attaching to brick I'm just not sure about this application. By the way the house was built in 1843 and all walls including the interior are double or triple brick. FUN!!! Thanks.


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## Bill (Mar 30, 2006)

I was always told "Wood that touch masonry must be PT" but then I was told that the only time it need be PT is if there is any chance of water getting to it, so I think you may find quite a variety of answers on this one!


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

You don't need treated lumber, nor 2x4's you can use furring strips, 2x2's or metal studs (they come in 2x2's) so you don't lose as much space and it's cheaper (unless you want the 2x4's for insulation purposes), plus chances are the walls aren't plumb and you'll have to come out a bit and/or shim. Now if the electric is romex and not conduit I don't know how much room you'd need.

.


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## JonM (Nov 1, 2007)

http://www.wwpinstitute.org/mainpages/documents/2006IRC-Aug06.pdf




JPV123 said:


> I need to attached 2x4's on a flat to double thick brick walls so I can run electric and attach drywall. My question is can I use regular common lumber or do I need pressure treated lumber? I always use pressure treated for band boards and ledgers when attaching to brick I'm just not sure about this application. By the way the house was built in 1843 and all walls including the interior are double or triple brick. FUN!!! Thanks.


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## Marky Stone (Jul 10, 2008)

I use ferring strips in jersey all the time on commercial projects in jersey to laminate block or brick walls. I always glue them and I have a hilti gun the one with the banna clip saves a ton of time, shoots 1" 5/16 pins through masonary like butter!


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## Marky Stone (Jul 10, 2008)

We also use hat track its basically a metal ferring strip if fire code is an issue this is ideal... Good luck


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## bobcaygeonjon (Aug 30, 2007)

I would use metal studs 2x2 and sit them slightly off the wall. Try not to attach to the wall directly as this could cause damp problems. And then insulate between the studs to lesson condensation problems once the drywall is attached.

Hope that helps.


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## wyoming 1 (May 7, 2008)

if you can I would build a stud wall the brick in house that old will not be a hard fired brick and the mortar will be soft lime based. Hard to get a fastener to hold and ram set will most likely blow it apart if you have the room I would try a stud wall


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## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

Like said above space out from the wall, i would use PT for mounting horizontal blocks and shim accordingly to get the studs straight. I would tapcon the blocks to the wall and this will give the studs something to nail to. I would tapcon the floor plate too and use PT for that. This is what i did for my basement, i have had no moisture issues and the walls are rock solid. I tried the Hilti but it didnt always hold, just blew the concrete to peices. The tapcons take longer but hold very well.


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## davinci (Dec 26, 2007)

do furring strips even come pressure treated?


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## BTJ Const (Jun 11, 2008)

I'm currently working on a Kitchen Remodel that has cynder block and morter walls. I built out the walls with 2x4's double top plates, single sills over subfloor on joists. Did what the previous reply did. Bought a Hilti Powder Actuated DX 460 and shot 1-1/4" pins in the MORTER JOINTS only to prevent cracking and destruction to the brick. I used a Simpson H24 clip attached to the 2x4" 1/3 from top on left side and 1/3 from bottom on right side and then shot the clip to the brick wall. We are going to insulate R-13 with Kraft Face. Inerior of the brick has multiple coats of paint so moisture is not an issue in this case. Ohh, 8'walls.

Its about the sturdiest wall(s) I've ever seen. :laughing:


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## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

If you're below grade, yes. If you're above grade, no.

R319.1



> 7.Wood furring strips or other wood framing
> members attached directly to the interior
> of exterior masonry walls or concrete walls
> below grade except where an approved
> ...


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Dustball said:


> If you're below grade, yes. If you're above grade, no.
> 
> R319.1


Agreed.
Around here, brick of that age is too soft 
for powder actuated fasteners.
I'd go with Tapcons or Spax and PL. :thumbsup:


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## dutchlegacy (Feb 29, 2008)

neolitic said:


> Agreed.
> Around here, brick of that age is too soft
> for powder actuated fasteners.
> I'd go with Tapcons or Spax and PL. :thumbsup:


Tapcons are the way to go, but get ready to be annoyed most of the day when they keep reaming out on you.


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