# Garage service door ideas



## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

I have to replace the service door in my garage and I have 7' walls. The problem is that it will hit the overhead door track. Looks like I have to cut 3-4" off the door. I don't remember ever cutting a metal door. I know I can, but then I would have to tear apart the threshold, cut the jamb, and put it back together and the bottom of the door itself would be pretty flimsy. It's a rental so it's gonna be a cheap pre-hung. I know someone out there has run into this and has a better idea.


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

Can you make it an outswing door?


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

tcleve4911 said:


> Can you make it an outswing door?


 Then the hinges would be outside.


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## festerized (May 19, 2007)

Key word search "low clearance garage doors":
http://www.supersneaky.com/lowheadroom-garagedoor-hardware-pictures.html


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

festerized said:


> Key word search "low clearance garage doors":
> http://www.supersneaky.com/lowheadroom-garagedoor-hardware-pictures.html


I thought we were talking about the Man door not the overhead door? No?

Is there a problem with the hinges being on the outside?


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

yes, man door.


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

as far as the hinges being outside, the only problem would be theives


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

they make outswing doors with different hinges. I have seen them many times.


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

Warren said:


> they make outswing doors with different hinges. I have seen them many times.


 Those locking hinges?


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

lukerich said:


> Those locking hinges?


I think they call them "tamper proof" but the striker is still vulnerable.

I always forget about the frikkin' crime factor :wallbash:

You can special order a shorter metal door from many of the door manufacturers. 
Try that.:thumbsup:


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

tcleve4911 said:


> I think they call them "tamper proof" but the striker is still vulnerable.
> 
> I always forget about the frikkin' crime factor :wallbash:
> 
> ...


 I know I could order a shorter door, but I'm renting the house and landlord don't care about the door. The thing is I have like $10,000 in tools in there. Maby I should spring for the door and yank it out when I move out!


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

lukerich said:


> I have to replace the service door in my garage



Well who's paying for that!?

Split the cost with him to get the right door.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

lukerich said:


> Then the hinges would be outside.


That is why you would 
order an "outswing door."


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

tcleve4911 said:


> Well who's paying for that!?
> 
> Split the cost with him to get the right door.


 I guess yer right. He would kinda have to do that. The door that's there won't even stay closed now.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

tcleve4911 said:


> I think they call them "tamper proof" but the striker is still vulnerable.
> 
> I always forget about the frikkin' crime factor :wallbash:
> ......:


That's why they make......


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## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

there are sealed hinges on the steel doors...someone tryed to get into mine couple weeks back...tore door protector(tamper proof?) to hell but door held


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## gargedoorsok (Mar 7, 2010)

*garage doors that fit*

I would definitely use an out-swing type of door for security reasons. Don't think cutting a door for low hung purposes is a good idea.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

lukerich said:


> as far as the hinges being outside, the only problem would be theives


There are hinges that have a set screw that keeps the hinge pin from being removed, also they have an interlock that keeps them from being opened if the hinge pin is removed.

If someone wants in a house, they will get in.


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## doorrepairsac (Sep 20, 2009)

*garage doors*

Maybe take the least expensive route on the door and get some motion sensor floods.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

lukerich said:


> I have to replace the service door in my garage and I have 7' walls. The problem is that it will hit the overhead door track. Looks like I have to cut 3-4" off the door. I don't remember ever cutting a metal door. I know I can, but then I would have to tear apart the threshold, cut the jamb, and put it back together and the bottom of the door itself would be pretty flimsy. It's a rental so it's gonna be a cheap pre-hung. I know someone out there has run into this and has a better idea.




Cut the top 3" off the door and screw it right back to the framework. When you open the door, the top section stays right in place, - - no jamb-work necessary . . . :shifty:


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## jeffatsquan (Mar 16, 2009)

You should be able to get a steel door in any size, I have order them as small as 3'-0 x 3'-0 for a crawl space.

One of the first jobs I worked on we were building a barn for a HO that owned a small factory and he would differentiate between doors as overhead doors or personal doors (walk through) 

We have been calling them personal doors ever since.


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## doorrepairsac (Sep 20, 2009)

*small garage doors*

I have also custom made a few doors that size, any size is possible.


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## mrmike (Dec 9, 2008)

You can definately order the steel door cut down to that size opening. I have just ordered one from the local lumber yard. You can have it cut evenly top and bottom which will be more money or just off the bottom which is cheaper. Even Home depot & Blowes can order them like this.
I have also cut them off at the bottom & re-inserted the "wood bottom" that I cut off- back in between the steel panels with a good glue..... hope this helps........


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## doorrepairsac (Sep 20, 2009)

*glue type?*

what type of glue do you use mrmike?


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## mrmike (Dec 9, 2008)

doorrepairsac said:


> what type of glue do you use mrmike?


I have used PL Premium contruction adheasive. Just make sure it can bond to metal & wood & be for interior/exterior. There are other brands also. 
By the way when you cut the piece off, you will have to seperate the metal off of the wood on that piece, which is pretty easy. install glue liberally to both sides & smoothing it on the wood so it is adhered & then inserted into the door bottom & clamping it for a bit.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

The simplest, fastest, and least expensive
option remains, order an outswing
and slide it into the existing opening...


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## mrmike (Dec 9, 2008)

neolitic said:


> The simplest, fastest, and least expensive
> option remains, order an outswing
> and slide it into the existing opening...


This all depends on what he wants to spend & if he can remove the jambs & threshhold without damage. He has to remove them anyhow. he would also need to fill in the top of the old opening height so it may be too much of a hassle In That case, yes a new door would be in order
. It is usually about $100 more to have them special ordered to shorter heights so it would make sense to order the outswing for that opening. Again it is up to him if he wants to spend the money or try to retrofit that existing door


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

mrmike said:


> This all depends on what he wants to spend & if he can remove the jambs & threshhold without damage. He has to remove them anyhow. he would also need to fill in the top of the old opening height so it may be too much of a hassle In That case, yes a new door would be in order
> . It is usually about $100 more to have them special ordered to shorter heights so it would make sense to order the outswing for that opening. Again it is up to him if he wants to spend the money or try to retrofit that existing door


I wasn't really arguing with you.:no:
It's like you said, extra bucks for special order
door, or labor to cut down the door and jambs,
then labor and materials to fill in the opening
inside and out, and you still have an
oddball looking door ....
I think the last Therma-Tru out-swing unit
I ordered was only about $30-$40 more
than the standard unit.
That mostly pays for the threshold and 
tamper resistant hinges.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

OK, this has to be one of the worst threads on CT. 

The OP calls himself a carpenter/contractor with $10G worth of tools he's storing in the garage yet he doesn't know:
1. there are security hinges for outswing doors
2. door suppliers will cut doors to any size
3. he can cut a door and jamb himself


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## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

This isn't the cheapest route, but my folks had the exact same problem...it may be helpful for folks with the opportunity to look ahead.

We used a wall mounted overhead door opener. This allowed an almost zero ceiling clearance for the tracks.
http://www.gate-opener.com/liftmaster_3800.html


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

thom said:


> OK, this has to be one of the worst threads on CT.
> 
> The OP calls himself a carpenter/contractor with $10G worth of tools he's storing in the garage yet he doesn't know:
> 1. there are security hinges for outswing doors
> ...


:laughing::clap:
....and yet some really good ideas
can pop up in some of the threads
that start with the dumbest premises.


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

thom said:


> OK, this has to be one of the worst threads on CT.
> 
> The OP calls himself a carpenter/contractor with $10G worth of tools he's storing in the garage yet he doesn't know:
> 1. there are security hinges for outswing doors
> ...


 Actually I do know that. Just looking for other ideas. Like I said it's a rental and I don't want to spend money on a custom door. The landlord says it's functional so if I want to upgrade the door I will have to pay for it. You might hack up a metal door and cut it, but not me. 
Thanks to everyone else for the help. As for you thom, worst thread? You sound like a bitter old man. Go  yourself.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

:whistling


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

What's funny is there are a few other threads asking the same question. Guess I should have looked around before asking a dumb question.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

It isn't your question,
it's your response to thom.


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## lukerich (Mar 12, 2009)

My response to thom was in line with his response to the thread. It was disrespectful. If someone disrespects me they get the same in return.
I AM a carpenter/ contractor and a damn good one!


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## gargedoorsok (Mar 7, 2010)

That's a great idea wnycarpenter. I always come up with a better idea after i do the job. Now i have a place to get some idea's.


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