# cut hardwood floor between door jambs



## mtplus (Jun 22, 2006)

I need to cut the hardwood flooring between the door jambs in order to install a threshold. Any suggestions as to how to do this such that the result is a nice, even, straight cut?



Thanks


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Why don't you install the threshold on top of the floor. It will look alot better in the long run.


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## mtplus (Jun 22, 2006)

*Cut Hardwood Floor Between Door Jambs*



Morning Wood said:


> Why don't you install the threshold on top of the floor. It will look alot better in the long run.


I appreciate your suggestion, but there are other doors in close proximity, and I want to maintain a consistent look.

Thanks


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## ernesto (Apr 11, 2011)

You could us e a skil saw (with good new blade) and finish off with a multi-function tool like a Fein Multimaster or the like. The finished product will only be as good as your skills and patience.


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## mtplus (Jun 22, 2006)

*Cut Hardwood Floor Between Door Jambs*



ernesto said:


> You could us e a skil saw (with good new blade) and finish off with a multi-function tool like a Fein Multimaster or the like. The finished product will only be as good as your skills and patience.


My skills and patience could be called into question :laughing:. This is also a good suggestion with my concern being for the first plunge cut.

Thanks Ernesto.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

mtplus said:


> My skills and patience could be called into question :laughing:. This is also a good suggestion with my concern being for the first plunge cut.
> 
> Thanks Ernesto.



Plunge cut is easy. Tack, or double side tape a straightedge for the skillsaw to run against. Raise all the way up & plunge into the floor. Clean up with a multi tool.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

It's stuff like this I love my TS-55, short rail, and Supercut for.


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## ernesto (Apr 11, 2011)

One of those would be nice Precision, I bet maybe 1% of all hardwood guys own one though. Beside you might get only a foot and a half across the doorway with the saw anyway.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

I was looking at a shorty board for my 55 but the shortest I found was 36. Wouldn't fit most doors. A 24 would be perfect.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

ernesto said:


> One of those would be nice Precision, I bet maybe 1% of all hardwood guys own one though. Beside you might get only a foot and a half across the doorway with the saw anyway.


I can't help it only 1% cares to invest in making their life easier and more productive :whistling True it doesn't cut the whole way but it's more than 18"...add a 3" blade on the Supercut and it makes quick work of the remaining though.



Metro M & L said:


> I was looking at a shorty board for my 55 but the shortest I found was 36. Wouldn't fit most doors. A 24 would be perfect.


I have a 32" that originally came with my MFT/3 and I cut it down to about 26" IIRC specifically for cutting flooring off in door ways. I run into a lot of situations where the previous installer ran something too far into a jamb and I need to cut it off to make my transition sit under the door.


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## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

Fein Multi master


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## ernesto (Apr 11, 2011)

Granted the T-55 is a fine tool and so is the Dewalt track saw, maybe even better but ya don't need one to make a couple 32 inch cuts.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

ernesto said:


> Granted the T-55 is a fine tool and so is the Dewalt track saw, maybe even better but ya don't need one to make a couple 32 inch cuts.


Don't need em to make an accurate long, straight cut either. I make jigs using 1/2" mdf. 1 1/2" piece of MDF tacked on top of a 6" piece of MDF. Place shoe of saw on top of the 6" MDF with the edge riding along the 1 1/2" piece. Run saw the length of the jig & you've got a very cheap, accurate track saw. Drop a few 23 guage pins through it into the floor & you're ready to go.


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

pinwheel said:


> Don't need em to make an accurate long, straight cut either. I make jigs using 1/2" mdf. 1 1/2" piece of MDF tacked on top of a 6" piece of MDF. Place shoe of saw on top of the 6" MDF with the edge riding along the 1 1/2" piece. Run saw the length of the jig & you've got a very cheap, accurate track saw. Drop a few 23 guage pins through it into the floor & you're ready to go.


 :clap:


I have a Supercut and I would love a trac saw but seriously, let's not forget at least *how* to do it old school in a pinch.

If you aren't willing to be in the 1% tool wise then plan on increasing the capacity of your No.1 tool, your brain.

[This PSA has been brought to you by Crusty Old Bastards.] :laughing:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Wow. A helluva lot of ASSuming going on in this thread...where did I say I couldn't do it the "old" way? All I said was I love my TS for that job. I can't help it if you guys are cheap and don't want to spend what would amount to, what - one room's worth of labor money on something that has only a ****load of uses, and can still give finish grade cuts too. Don't let me stand in the way of your professional progress. 

Pinwheel - I respect you a ton and you put out some of the best work on this board. I find it hard to believe you would rather waste tons of time and labor building a jig when you could simply adjust a saw, make a measurement or two, and slap down a track and make the cut. Not to mention get waaaaay better results than a circular saw - I don't care what blade you use.

Using some of you guys mentality against you here:

Why do you use compressors and nail guns? You could hand nail everything. Why use sanders? Hand scrapers and sand paper does the job. Why use miter saws? A box and a hand saw works just as good. But I mention a track saw and everybody in the peanut gallery jumps up and shouts down the blasphemy - hypocrits. 

You know - I'd be willing to bet that every person that talks **** about a TS not being necessary and how much they "cost" has never used one. Use one for a week and I bet my ass you wouldn't sell it back...

While you guys are making jigs, taping surfaces, using chisels, etc. - I'll be four doorways ahead of you with better results and less aggravation. But hey - you "saved" money. My time is worth money, if yours ain't give me a call, I'll just sub my grunt work out to you and make a profit.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Wow. A helluva lot of ASSuming going on in this thread...where did I say I couldn't do it the "old" way? All I said was I love my TS for that job. I can't help it if you guys are cheap and don't want to spend what would amount to, what - one room's worth of labor money on something that has only a ****load of uses, and can still give finish grade cuts too. Don't let me stand in the way of your professional progress.
> 
> Pinwheel - I respect you a ton and you put out some of the best work on this board. I find it hard to believe you would rather waste tons of time and labor building a jig when you could simply adjust a saw, make a measurement or two, and slap down a track and make the cut. Not to mention get waaaaay better results than a circular saw - I don't care what blade you use.
> 
> ...



Man, you obviously don't realize where I live. I'm literally in the middle of BFE. I don't have access to big tool stores where I can walk in & put my hands on high $$ tools. My only access to anything provacative is the internet. I'm a tool whore & don't hesitate to spend my hard earned money on a tool that will increase my productivity. Had I seen one in action first hand, I imagine I could justify it.

But the reality, I haven't & what I'm doing works very well for me & has for the past 25 years. I'm not knocking anyone for trying to be the best they can by buying tools to help them do professional work. It's just at this point in time, for me, my extra money is better spent trying to figure out how to get my new shop built, rather than buying a new tool.

BTW, preciate the compliment on the quality of work we put out.:thumbup:


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Oh, & BTW, you're not gonna be 4 doorways ahead of me while I make my jigs. I'm extremely efficient with my time & movements. Men half my age rarely keep up with me when we're doing floor work. The jig I described, literally takes 5 minutes to put together & it only takes seconds to pin to the floor & seconds to remove & move to the next spot that needs cut. 23 guage pins break off easily with just a little bending back & forth & become invisible.


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

I guess I am part of the "peanut gallery". :laughing:

What Pinwheel said above. I am also a tool whore, hence the Supercut and lust of trac saws and Festool, etc.

My post was meant for the OP who wants to resist buying the speciality tools. If he doesn't want to pay then he has to go old school. And that entails using his brain to construct some method to get the same results with more basic tools.

Me personally, I like to pay. My rule is if I am going to accept more of the type of work that the tool would be useful for then time to go shopping (Primatech P250 anyone?).

We are actually in the same boat on the value of the right tool. :thumbsup:

Just giving a general shout out to old school, not directed to you.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Depends where the boards end up at the door way it may be a way doing it without circular saw etc..If you have couple more boards extra, all you need to do is remove one or two rows and cut new narrow boards, glue/nail.You may need to use short two boards instead of one if the space under the doors jams are tight.
Note: above is good if the boards are parallel to the door.If not I suggest using router to groove out and sharp chisels.


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

astor said:


> .
> Note: above is good if the boards are parallel to the door.If not I suggest using router to groove out and sharp chisels.


I second the router---It will get you closer to the jambs than a Skill Saw.

I'm a router guy.--:laughing:


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