# Form Framing for Stone Column Caps



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

I helped my friend set up forms on his porch columns so he can pour 10 degree sloped concrete caps that will cover future stone wrap. I have never seen this before with concrete, but he said it was typical in FL, where he's from. I like the idea of concrete for the cap. Seems very low maintenance. Typically we just build the caps out of wood here.


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

I just love how downspouts do that over the columns. 

It's interesting. It seems fine to me.

Showing off your Makitas are you? I am getting ready to buy the exact same thing. They are nice!


----------



## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

What's the material called you're forming with? Looks like plywood with masonite adhered on each side. Looks like slick stuff for forms.


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

Its MDO, medium density overlayment. Usually used on ext. applications signs etc.
I think.


----------



## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

D.Foster said:


> Its MDO, medium density overlayment. Usually used on ext. applications signs etc.
> I think.


?? The only MDO I've seen has more like paper on each face.

EDIT... the only plywood I can find with masonite on each side is something called "Armorboard".


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

I could be wrong,, is their a HDO, high density overlay??


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

Armorboard, cool i wonder if that would be a special order deal. Iknow masonite doesnt hold up too well to weather though right?


----------



## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

D.Foster said:


> Armorboard, cool i wonder if that would be a special order deal. Iknow masonite doesnt hold up too well to weather though right?


It'll hold up long enough to get the forms stripped, and there won't be any woodgrain marks.


----------



## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

http://www.canply.org/english/products/overlaidplywood.htm

http://www.insidewoodworking.com/lumber/794mdo-and-hdo-plywood.html

http://www.mccauseylumber.com/ppcfp.html


----------



## TempestV (Feb 3, 2007)

I've built forms for a concrete cap on a chimney before. It seems like you would want to finish the caps like concrete counter tops when it's right at eye level though.


----------



## Gold Tie (Feb 26, 2008)

Nice jobsite radio!!! You guys like to break into a freestyle dance while your working? 

"Check it, this form was put on by...... 'the robot'!" LOL.


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Hard to tell on this monitor,
Could be HDO (AKA, architectural grade).
Used a lot for form work on 
commercial work, especially slip forms,
columns, stuff that is reused a lot.


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

mdshunk said:


> It'll hold up long enough to get the forms stripped, and there won't be any woodgrain marks.


 I wonder what the price diff would be between that and melamine? I'm sure melamine wouldnt hold up as well though for repeat applications.


----------



## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

D.Foster said:


> I wonder what the price diff would be between that and melamine? I'm sure melamine wouldnt hold up as well though for repeat applications.


If you made me guess, I'd guess not much at all. I hope Walmaxx reposts. He might just say it was scraps they had leftover and thought they'd use them up here.


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

It's 1" thick (3/4" CDX plywood with 2 layers of the peg board type material laminated on each side.) The HO / builder got them from someone for free. They were all 4' x 5' (and very heavy) Some had circle cut outs along an edge, so I think they were for forms at one time. Maybe you can see the notch outs in this photo.


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

It looks like good stuff, i'd like to try it.


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

The music is a must.

I busted my DeWalt radio...so I revived my sound system from my old BOOM car days and power it with a 100 watt RMS per channel Yamaha home receiver into an MTX Terminator box.

A bit loud...but real c-l-e-a-n.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

so your wraping the post in concrete?


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

The top gets a kind of Azek but off brand. Then the concrete cap (black dye to match the concrete deck). Then under the caps, wire mesh attached to the PT plywood for the mortar and finally synthetic stone to the mortar base.

The HO is a stone guy...he'll do good work.


----------



## nailman (Sep 4, 2008)

We run our downspouts inside. would like to see pics when finished.


----------



## MarkmillerConst (Feb 3, 2009)

*Major Malfunction in the works!!! *Never embed wood into concrete. Rainwater will chase the gap to the bottom and get trapped. Even treated will rot when submerged. Even a highway sign would have some tar coating it. Those posts will be rotten in five years, ten tops.

Also, if wood is filling up the form, how much rebar do you have in there?

If you want the 6x6 look either use tube steel painted, or put the wood posts on top of the concrete column base. Also don't us a simpson column base unless you have enough side covering. I think they require 3"


----------



## Static Design (Nov 30, 2008)

Those down spouts are ugly, other then that it looks good.


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

MarkmillerConst said:


> *Major Malfunction in the works!!! *Never embed wood into concrete. Rainwater will chase the gap to the bottom and get trapped. Even treated will rot when submerged. Even a highway sign would have some tar coating it. Those posts will be rotten in five years, ten tops.
> 
> Also, if wood is filling up the form, how much rebar do you have in there?
> 
> If you want the 6x6 look either use tube steel painted, or put the wood posts on top of the concrete column base. Also don't us a simpson column base unless you have enough side covering. I think they require 3"


Good input. 

I just forwarded your comments to the HO/builder so he is aware of the issues you raise. 

Thanks

Mike


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

MarkmillerConst said:


> *Major Malfunction in the works!!! *Never embed wood into concrete. Rainwater will chase the gap to the bottom and get trapped. Even treated will rot when submerged. Even a highway sign would have some tar coating it. Those posts will be rotten in five years, ten tops.
> 
> Also, if wood is filling up the form, how much rebar do you have in there?
> 
> If you want the 6x6 look either use tube steel painted, or put the wood posts on top of the concrete column base. Also don't us a simpson column base unless you have enough side covering. I think they require 3"


Not very observant tonight,
are we?


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

downspouts built into columns are a problem waiting to happen


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

Wrapping the columns.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

post look really nice as does the trim work on the building any more pics Wallmax?


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I had to do a pure white, exposed, raw concrete lintel (3' tall) for a church. Wrapped the inside of the form boards with visqueen stapled tightly to the backs, and it came out looking like glass. Some of the joints still needed polishing, but overall, most of the shine was already there.


----------



## catawba (Feb 13, 2009)

Are the footings exposed aggr. If they are that's pretty neat, never seen that on footings(foundation wall).


----------



## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

> catawba;618587]Are the footings exposed aggr. If they are that's pretty neat, never seen that on footings(foundation wall).


I saw that as well, it looks good. :thumbsup:


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

*In-progress pix*

Worked today on the columns - cold and windy...the camera can't capture that:no:

The guy in the photo is the HO who I also work with often. He's a true handy-man. Multi-skilled in several construction related disciplines. He does all the concrete and stone work.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

very nice and clean work wallmax:thumbup:


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Yes, they come out real nice. We did an outdoor bar, and we made concrete countertops, and stained them.


----------



## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

How thick are they...the forms look to be pretty tall. 

what is the process for finishing the edges?


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

72chevy4x4 said:


> How thick are they...the forms look to be pretty tall.
> 
> what is the process for finishing the edges?


The counter is regular thickness, edge comes in a 1-1/2" some 1-3/4" thickness. The foam already comes with an edge profile that you select, when you order forms, you tell them how many feet you need and how many corners. Set them up, and you use a mix they provide and an additive that comes in buckets, the instructions, everything you will need is there and you will need to rent a vibrator to make sure there is no air pockets. After it sets, you cut the wire that holds the forms and remove it, (they also have a wireless system), and you smooth the edges, wetting them a little using the same form profile for the edge and a trowel for the top. After 48-hr you can stain it, if anything else you like to do, i,e stamping, etc, you have to do it while its workable. This was our first counter-top, and it came out really good, I was surprised and impressed from the outcome :thumbup:


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Let me add this, the form looks allot thicker, is because you have a plywood base, and you attach 1X or 2X lumber under it using finished nails, so it can be pried easily when being removed. Then you attach the foam form to that using wire which is part of the wire-mesh, (not sure how wireless system is attached). So most of the thickness you see is the base of the whole form, the actual thickness of the counter top is the profile section only.


----------



## Cole (Aug 27, 2004)

I like it!


----------



## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

wallmaxx said:


> Good input.
> 
> I just forwarded your comments to the HO/builder so he is aware of the issues you raise.
> 
> ...


what was the resolution on this. I always put a pt post to a spread footing :shutup:


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

The HO was appreciative of all the input. Upon hearing of the potential for standing water rotting out the PT posts over time...he put a small piece of rain screen mesh and gravel in the bottom of each post column. The top gets a full silicone back caulk fill between post and crete, prior to the Azek wrap being applied.

I think it will be good.


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

wallmaxx said:


> The HO was appreciative of all the input. Upon hearing of the potential for standing water rotting out the PT posts over time...he put a small piece of rain screen mesh and gravel in the bottom of each post column. The top gets a full silicone back caulk fill between post and crete, prior to the Azek wrap being applied.
> 
> I think it will be good.


We used rubber that is used in the shower pans. We folded a few times and stapled on to the post.


----------

