# Blower Fan Continues to Run



## genmin (Dec 16, 2009)

My home has a Weatherking dual pack HVAC, on the heating side this winter I have been experiencing an issue with the return/circulation low speed blower not shutting off and continuing to run. It happened early for a few days upon firing off in November. I would shut the breaker off and then it would be okay. After firing off again, I would then have to do the same to shut the blower off. It happened on three or four occasions and never happened again. Fast forward. Today 1/9/2012 I called for heat and run the unit for 45 minutes. After shutting off at the thermostat, the blower keeps running. I shut off at the panel and thought it would get the blower turned off. After 30 minutes, I turned the circuit back on. On came the fan. This did alleviate the problem when it happened in early November, but not now. I went onto the roof and pulled the blade out of the disconnect, same as utilizing the circuit breaker, to no avail, the blower keeps coming back on. Direct me please, any help will be appreciated. If it helps any, the control valve is a Honeywell VR8204 on LP gas. I do not believe the problem is with the valve. No problem de-energizing the main and pilot valves at the thermostat, the low speed blower just keeps running. Need a professional opinion here regarding a relay or switch signal of some sort.


----------



## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Sounds like you have a contactor stuck.

Really otta call a pro....:thumbsup:


----------



## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Sounds like a relay


----------



## genmin (Dec 16, 2009)

Thanks , Griz I thought of the contactor or the time delay control, thanks for your response. Just thought a real crack HVAC guru would say "heres' where you need to go" Of course griz, you sound like a "Pro". Mysel,f I am a General Contractor and a little bit of everything else, even tear into guitars amps with a lot of electrical knowledge. I just thought I would run it through here to get as close to the source as possible. Thanks for your input, you are like me!!


----------



## Cwcoomer (Apr 20, 2011)

May check your t-stat wires are installed clean. No wires bare wires touching. I've run into that before.


----------



## user84377 (Jan 7, 2012)

Model and Serial would be helpful....also when you say low speed blower motor, are you speaking about the draft inducer motor or the actual blower motor?

Kinda need the information above to be sure you're given the right advice here.


----------



## mrmike (Dec 9, 2008)

It sounds like the Fan limit controller is sticking & not breaking contact sometimes. 
This switch is independent of the gas operation. It starts the blower fan on plenum Temperature & SHUTS it off when the temp goes down (for example 120 deg).......................... 

If your not familiar- this controller is usually is near the top of your furnace. On alot of them there is a button for auto or manual operation. On most the button is out for auto.


----------



## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

How can you pull the disconnect and still have power to the blower? You sure you had the correct disconnect and/or are you sure it's simply not hooked up/wired through?


----------



## Cwcoomer (Apr 20, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> How can you pull the disconnect and still have power to the blower? You sure you had the correct disconnect and/or are you sure it's simply not hooked up/wired through?


I think he pulled the disconnect at the condensing unit outside which shouldn't effect the furnace anyway.


----------



## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

Cwcoomer said:


> I think he pulled the disconnect at the condensing unit outside which shouldn't effect the furnace anyway.


Yeah, that's most likely it. Thanks.


----------



## genmin (Dec 16, 2009)

Doc Holliday said:


> How can you pull the disconnect and still have power to the blower? You sure you had the correct disconnect and/or are you sure it's simply not hooked up/wired through?


Yes, What I meant was, when power is shut off at the panel or if shut off at the disconnect on the rooftop. The results are still the same. When powered up again, the fan begins to run. Has been operational for 16 years, all was correctly installed. Last night after firing off and it reaching the temperature that was called for it shut off on it's own. When temperature in side cooled the thermostat setting called for heat again. The burner fired off and the blower came on. Again this time, it turned off on it's own after reaching temp. Appears to be an intermittent problem and needs attended too. Will look at the contacts first.


----------



## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

genmin said:


> Yes, What I meant was, when power is shut off at the panel or if shut off at the disconnect on the rooftop. The results are still the same. When powered up again, the fan begins to run. Has been operational for 16 years, all was correctly installed. Last night after firing off and it reaching the temperature that was called for it shut off on it's own. When temperature in side cooled the thermostat setting called for heat again. The burner fired off and the blower came on. Again this time, it turned off on it's own after reaching temp. Appears to be an intermittent problem and needs attended too. Will look at the contacts first.


As others have asked, please get the model and serial number of the unit. 

It's going to be a fan relay/contactor, again, as others have stated.


----------



## user84377 (Jan 7, 2012)

> Yes, What I meant was, when power is shut off at the panel or if shut off at the disconnect on the rooftop. The results are still the same. When powered up again, the fan begins to run. Has been operational for 16 years, all was correctly installed. Last night after firing off and it reaching the temperature that was called for it shut off on it's own. When temperature in side cooled the thermostat setting called for heat again. The burner fired off and the blower came on. Again this time, it turned off on it's own after reaching temp. Appears to be an intermittent problem and needs attended too. Will look at the contacts first.


Please submit the model and serial number and I will be happy to help. Also, as previously requested...Are you speaking about the inducer draft/combustion motor or the actual blower motor for the furnace. Sounds like a either a relay of the ignition board getting stuck every so often or a problem with a thermodisc sensor but would need the above information to be certain.


----------



## genmin (Dec 16, 2009)

*Model/Serial*

Sorry for the wait. I had to dig through 16 years of receipts. The Info on the unit had degraded since it was exposed and facing west, nothing was legible. Here is what I found in my paperwork. WeatherKing: GP G 2.6T 050-1 AYA4784 CA F0995


----------



## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

This is a self contained pack gas pack, meaning it's like a unit you see on the roof?

Your numbers do not match anything during my search. There should be numbers listed on the unit itself somewhere, possibly inside the service area on a data plate but most likely on the outside. Hopefullly it's stamped and still legible. 

model and serial number would individually be needed but without them I guess it's still unanymous, it's a relay of some sort sticking. what kind of relay is on that unit is why we need the model and serial numbers.


----------



## user84377 (Jan 7, 2012)

*Your Answer*



> Sorry for the wait. I had to dig through 16 years of receipts. The Info on the unit had degraded since it was exposed and facing west, nothing was legible. Here is what I found in my paperwork. WeatherKing: GP G 2.6T 050-1 AYA4784 CA F0995


The model number to your unit is RRGG-05E31JKR which is in fact a packaged heating/cooling unit. 

Now to answer your question. If your problem is revolving around the indoor blower motor (Motor that delivers airflow to the home) and NOT the inducer draft motor...which from your question, I believe does then, the following three items are the only problems that would cause the issue described...

1)Breach or failure of heat exchanger (holes/cracks) is listed as the number 1 possible cause for safety. Should the heat exchanger be cracked or breached heat and flue gases could be escaping into the airflow causing the fan control to sense higher than normal temperatures which in turn prevents the fan from shutting off. Heat/flue gases escaping from a breached heat exchanger could also damage the fan control causing irractic operation. *MORE IMPORTANTLY HAVE IT CHECKED FOR THE OCCUPANTS SAFETY AS FLUE GASES CONTAIN CO. THIS UNIT WAS INSTALLED IN THE 90'S SO HAVE A CO DETECTOR INSTALLED IRREGARDLESS.*
Before reading possible problem 2 keep in mind that it is assumed that the thermostat fan setting is set to auto NOT on.
2) Fan limit control...This control has a factory setting for fan on and fan off temps. On a call for heat your draft inducer motor starts, closes the interlock switch which opens the pilot valve and starts the spark ignition system. Once the pilot flame is sensed the main gas valve is opened and the main burners are ignited. During this time the fan should not cycle on (unless fan is switched to ON via the thermostat) until the furnace has reached the fan on temp of the fan control. When your thermostat is satisfied it will "kill" the call for heat and the draft inducer motor will stop, opening the interlock switch which in turn closes the pilot and main gas valve. Your fan will continue to run until the furnace temperature drops below the fan off setting of the fan control. This extended time of the fan running will vary on how long the furnace has been on....shorter run times--fan should stop quicker....longer run times--fan may take a little longer to shut off.
3)Faulty thermostat.......this is very likely not the cause but a possibility. Again it has been assumed that the thermostat setting for the fan is set auto. A faulty thermostat could be sending a signal through the G terminal intermittingly causes unusual fan operation. 


All things stated....I can almost without question tell you that number 2 is the issue. If your thermostat fan setting is set to auto and the fan will not shut down when the furance shuts down after a period of 5 minutes or so then the Fan control needs to go OR YOU COULD HAVE A FAILED HEAT EXCHANGER. EITHER WAY GET A HVAC PROVIDER OUT AND HAVE IT FIXED. 

Enjoyed helping
I work for CAS, as the name would suggest, and if you liked this answer you can like them at their Facebook page. I do have their permission to use their name and promote their services...and to be upfront, employees get "kudos" for bringing attention to their services. They do not do residential or take residential calls but permit certain employees to answer or engage via social media.


----------



## genmin (Dec 16, 2009)

Thanks CAS for your detail and lengthy response. What are you referring to regarding the numbers you posted. My nomenclature refers to my unit as a, [GPG 2.6T 050-1 B] GP (gas pack) G (series) 2.6T (2 1/2 ton scroll compressor) 050 (50,000 btu/hr heating capacity) 1 (208/230 single phase) * (is for blank defining "standard model". Appreciate the help and thanks for your concern regarding the CO and our safety,, genmin*


----------



## user84377 (Jan 7, 2012)

> Thanks CAS for your detail and lengthy response. What are you referring to regarding the numbers you posted. My nomenclature refers to my unit as a, [GPG 2.6T 050-1 B] GP (gas pack) G (series) 2.6T (2 1/2 ton scroll compressor) 050 (50,000 btu/hr heating capacity) 1 (208/230 single phase) * (is for blank defining "standard model". Appreciate the help and thanks for your concern regarding the CO and our safety,, genmin *


*


No problem...glad to do it. The number you referenced is not the actual model or serial number but did lead me to the model number which I listed for your records. Keep the model number as you or any servicer will need it for parts, etc.

Make sure to have a servicer you trust take care of that for you. They will need to dismantle it partially to view the heat exchanger. With age and environment in CA (sea salt,etc) don't be surprised if it is bad.

I believe however that you have a defective fan cycle control which is easily replaced however please have the heat exchanger checked anyway simply b/c of the age and environment it stands a good chance of being bad even if it is has not caused damage to the fan cycle control.

If in fact the heat exchanger is bad...replacing the unit would be the most practical solution as heat exchanger replacements are not cheap and your unit is old. You should have some pretty good contacts with HVAC providers as you are a contractor...they should be able to give you a pretty good deal on a unit.*


----------



## genmin (Dec 16, 2009)

CAS, Okay and thanks for your help. I went up on top while the fan was in it's continuous run mode. I then turned the Fan Cycle Control/Limit Control dial and after turning about 45 or 60 degrees in rotation the fan did turn off. Tried it again and the same. I will go to my local HVAC supplier and get the part. My wife has a HVAC contractor who she uses at her school district for her service work, I will let him give me his opinion on the heat exchanger. And thank you again for your expertise and input. Thanks to the forum and all other responses. Genmin


----------



## user84377 (Jan 7, 2012)

> CAS, Okay and thanks for your help. I went up on top while the fan was in it's continuous run mode. I then turned the Fan Cycle Control/Limit Control dial and after turning about 45 or 60 degrees in rotation the fan did turn off. Tried it again and the same. I will go to my local HVAC supplier and get the part. My wife has a HVAC contractor who she uses at her school district for her service work, I will let him give me his opinion on the heat exchanger. And thank you again for your expertise and input. Thanks to the forum and all other responses. Genmin


No problem. Definitely have that heat exchanger checked...should be checked annually actually. Also anytime you have a fuel burning furnace you should have a properly placed CO detector just in case.


----------

