# mdf crown



## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

mdf crown 5 inch.does everybody mitre it and use butterfly nailing ,or do you cope it.im currently using mitres with triangle backing strip to nail into.when the walls are bad i dont no how these guys measure all the walls cut everything and then install.if you have to ajjust mitres then the next piece may be a bit shorter or even need to recut.

IM INTERESTED IN ANY GOOD TIPS always learning


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Installing crown - we first install plywood angle strips, screwed into the top plate. We size it so there will be 1/8"gap between it and the back of the crown.

Then install crown, nailed to plywood strip. We cope inside corners - tight, no caulking allowed. Outside mitres we use a gauge to get the exact cut, it's almost never a true 45 due to the corner bead. Usually 45 1/2 or 46.

We caulk any minor gaps at wall and ceiling. If the gap is 1/4" or more, we mud out the ceiling to staighten it out. NOTE- We do the drywall straightening before we start the crown install.

This method will serve you well, I hope. If you have to install clear finished oak crown, you will need everything perfect. No inside mitres!!

Hope this helps.


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## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

*mdf*

so im on the wright track ido it the same as you pritty much except the cope.in toronto mdf crown is very competitve so speed saving idears are very helpfull.becuase mdf is so fragile how does the coping work out so easy to damage.do you use a coping saw or jig saw.iwould never inside mitre oak or any real wood


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I know, I see the signs on the telephone poles "crown installed $3/ft" . I don't do that kind of work.

For fast install - no plywood backer, use some pl adhesive on the top when there is no joist to nail to and cross nail it. Just caulk the gaps.

I use a coping saw and two files - a half round and a round - to fine tune the fit. On wood I'll use a grinder with sanding disc in it.

I suspect the fastest guys are just mitering the inside corners, some glue and dap.

The last crown job I did was paint grade poplar with frieze behind it and the installation cost worked out to $6/ft. Plus materials! Just FYI. For customers like that they won't accept the 'fast work'.

Everyone calls this crown molding, but actually it is cornice mold. Crown molding is what is on the top of kitchen cabinets.


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## JohnLINY (Oct 13, 2007)

I agree with Katoman and his technique for fg wood or stain grade work. MDF can be difficult to cleanly cope sometimes and has a tendency to crush if you try and over spring it in.

I normally don't use a lot of MDF crown molding but when I do I have found that mitering the corners and TB molding glue produces a solid long lasting joint that doesn't open up. Still using the same backer board technique that Katoman described except using ripped down 2x4 to the spring angle vs plywood backer.

Also, I go around the room and measure all the inside corners with a Bosch miter finder to get a tight fit. Mitering is a lot faster than coping. But for solid or fg wood I still cope. Solid wood moves a lot more than MDF.


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## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

I cope inside corners and glue outside corners. No backing strip, just 2 1/2" 15g nails into the studs.


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## Mrmac204 (Dec 27, 2006)

I see that price locally here on Craigs List = $3/ft (vancouver) I can't compete with that. Coping MDF is easy! and it goes quick once you get the hang of coping. Its not a race though!
Measuring? I use a Hilti pd42 laser measurer. Its so accurate its scary! LOL


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## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

Coping is the way to go. with MDF I like to back bevel it a little steeper so the face rides smooth onto the other piece. I use a coping saw and a old Craftsman srtaight shaft grinder when needed.:thumbsup:

It's no fun when the PM's on you a** and you have to miter it all and chaulk the rest. Generally " I think it looka like a**" but it's not in the budget.


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

A $10 jobmate dremel tool, (on sale) from Canadian Tire works wonders for adjusting the cope on MDF.


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## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

*cornice*

Thanks




katoman said:


> I know, I see the signs on the telephone poles "crown installed $3/ft" . I don't do that kind of work.
> 
> i always called it cornice till i moved from uk to canada and everybody did not understand me when i called it cornice.thanks for your input kato,so do you think i should cope the mdf instead of inside mitres.i always cope my baseboards SKIRTING.
> 
> ...


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## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

*mdf*

next mdf corown job im going to try coping it ,i think i may even be faster this way,im very handy with a coping saw,in uk we worked by hand all the time on site ,no power,that was 20 years ago mind.

tthanks everyone for your input.I know most of the moulding companys in toronto only butterfly nail and dap.


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## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

*more input guys,*

where in toronto can i buy the colins coping foot for a jig saw


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## jarvis design (May 6, 2008)

Good Day from down the 401!!

I picked up a set of these from Lee Valley a few years ago. They work pretty good for doing coping - and its a lot faster than doing it by hand.


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## edson group inc (Feb 3, 2010)

*collins coping foot*

I got my coping foot online "collinstools" but Lee Valley is supposed to have it according to the collinstools. I've used the coping foot on 3 jobs along with my Starret miter gauge, great time savers:clap:


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## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

*thanks*

thanks guys


edson group inc said:


> I got my coping foot online "collinstools" but Lee Valley is supposed to have it according to the collinstools. I've used the coping foot on 3 jobs along with my Starret miter gauge, great time savers:clap:


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## bbgcarpentry (Apr 11, 2009)

*Thanks*

Any one else want to chime in


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

bbgcarpentry said:


> Any one else want to chime in


 everyone left six years ago


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## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

bbgcarpentry said:


> Any one else want to chime in


Why you messing with us like this?


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