# Caulking toilet to floor??



## Double-A

Hehe. I use a razor and it still leaves icky behind although really thin icky, but that's not really the biggest problem. 

The biggest problem with resetting a toilet is pounding those 40d spikes through the little holes in the toilet. You really have to hit them hard if you happen to catch the closet flange.:blink: 

But, I look way cool doing it cause I use my DeathStick!


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## nadonailer

I used to use silicone for everything sealant wise but it is awfully difficult to work with, so I've gone to a caulk/silicone blend which (IMHO) solves both problems. Just my .02


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## Brushslingers

Double A has a point, just didn't state it... latex caulks were designed to resist mildew. I can't STAND caulked toilets but, it's better to use a latex than a silicone.


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## Tom R

Brushslingers said:


> Double A has a point, just didn't state it... latex caulks were designed to resist mildew. I can't STAND caulked toilets but, it's better to use a latex than a silicone.



Trouble is (as already stated), - - latex caulk is absolute garbage, - - and is not even allowed in my truck . . .

Best I can say about it is, - - it's one of the few products I WON'T use that IS all it's 'cracked' up to be!! :laughing:


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## Mike Finley

Tom R said:


> Was reading newest edition of JLC that arrived today, - - about closet flange 'fixes'.
> 
> Anyway, - - they were mentioning on a side-bar about the debate between those who caulk the toilet-to-floor connection and those who don't, - - they didn't allow room for any 'other' choices (aside from 'grouting' the connection).
> 
> Basically, - - they said the over-all consensus was to 'caulk' said connection (also mentioned it's now required by several codes).
> 
> Anyway, - - I've always felt (and still do) the best way is to caulk along just both sides and the front, - - that way, the back (unseen) is still a 'leak indicator' . . .
> 
> I can't be the only one that does it this way, - - can I??


We do it the same, but since we are almost always setting it on a new tile floor we installed the caulk is the same caulk that is color matched to the grout, the same caulk that is going to be used to run a bead between the tub and the tile and anywhere else, this really ends up looking sharp since the grout in the tile floor always will end up running into the caulk of the toilet seal.

Whether it's silicone or latex, is irrelevant to me.


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## Tom R

I usually match the caulk to the color of the terlet (makes it look like it grew right out of the floor), - - but your way sounds good, too.


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## ch0mpie

I ran into one at the begining of this summer where liquid nails was used between the toilet and the floor:furious: If I hadn't been replacing the tile floor, it would have been a real nightmare.


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## Peladu

I do it the same way as Tom R has posted throughout this thread.

What I noticed a lot with the color match caulk is that it is the color of the grout when the grout is wet, not dry. (after curing of course)

Come to think of it, color match grout seems to me that it would give off the appearance that he toilet was set in a bed of grout.

Nah, I will stay with the white silicones. It's worked perfect so far.


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## Mike Finley

Peladu said:


> What I noticed a lot with the color match caulk is that it is the color of the grout when the grout is wet, not dry. (after curing of course)


We use C-cure brand grout and color matched caulks, the caulks dry to the color of the cured grout. We also use a sanded caulk with a sanded grout and a non-sanded caulk with a non-sanded grout. We can apply the caulk right over the grout for say a spot that gapped or cracked and you can't see the difference between the two products.

Now, for caulk that doesn't match the color of the cured grout - that would be a stretch to call it color matched, now wouldn't it?:laughing:


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## Peladu

Mike Finley said:


> Now, for caulk that doesn't match the color of the cured grout - that would be a stretch to call it color matched, now wouldn't it?:laughing:


You got that right Mike...and that's why I am fed up with it.
I used TEC, and it matches wet, but not dry.
Enough for me to notice and not enough for the customer to complain.
Gonna look up what you're talking about.


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## Mike Finley

That's ironic, I have been considering looking at Tec products because C-cure grout is so finicky. It seems like if you just look at it wrong while installing it you run the risk of it curing in an uneven coloring.


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## Peladu

Tec grout I like, but they need help with the caulk.
Maybe it's the colors my customers pick, but they have not been so nice for me.
If I can dig up a pic, I will show you an old one, if the camera picked it up.


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## Atricaudatus

Double-A said:


> The use of silicone is too permanent a solution in this situation. If I install the WC, I want to know that I can pull and reset it and seal the foot of the bowl to the floor just as well the second time as the first. That entails cleaning up the old sealant. Silicone is hard to clean off. Uncured (fresh) silicone does not stick to cured silicone. There is no effective solvent that will remove silicone that will not damage some floor finishes.
> 
> Why would I use silicone to seal down a toilet when a good 50 year siliconized latex caulk with a mildewcide in it is more expensive? I wouldn't. I use the more expensive siliconized latex with the 50 year warranty that I can remove from the floor and reseal the potty without any of the bother of silicone.
> 
> How did I come to this strange and awful place in which I stand all alone, decrying the use of silicone sealants for toilets? Experience. Years and years of experience pulling and resetting potties. Does this make me a better person? No. Does it make me right? No. It makes me different.


For what it's worth, I'm with you on this one.

Also makes ahelluva mess to scrape off the tile floor if you replace the toilet with one that has a different footprint.

Love sillycone, but not for toilet bases.


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## cmwacasey

with masking tape mask the bottom of the toilet and the floor. on the floor you may have to use many small overlapping peices to match the toilet curves.fill toilet bottom with caulk(of your choice)finger it and rip off tape.perfect caulk job without the excess residue.if you have to remove the toilet later,then cleanup is no concern because the caulk is where it is supposed to be-under the toilet.


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## Mike Finley

cmwacasey said:


> with masking tape mask the bottom of the toilet and the floor. on the floor you may have to use many small overlapping peices to match the toilet curves.fill toilet bottom with caulk(of your choice)finger it and rip off tape.perfect caulk job without the excess residue.if you have to remove the toilet later,then cleanup is no concern because the caulk is where it is supposed to be-under the toilet.


Wow, you've got to be kidding me, at least I hope?

How about apply caulk, smear with finger, wipe with damp sponge, perfectly tooled joint, done.

Not sure what the advantage would be doing it any other way, but maybe I'm missing something.


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## cmwacasey

I am not kidding about the masking.when you mask,you will not have any excess caulk residue.your way works fine with grout or latex caulk,if you get ALL the residue off.There lies the problem with caulking as we have all seen hundreds of times---caulk all over the place.bad caulk jobs do not look near as bad when they are fresh as they do when they begin age.


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## troubleseeker

It is not required by code here to caulk, but since most floors, especially tile are hardly ever as flat as the bottom of the toilet, the customer usually requests if anything can be done with the uneven gap. I use silicon if the plumbing fixture and floor colors are basic and will look ok. If not, I get a tube of color matched caulking to match the grout color from our tile supplier.

And definately leave the back open for leak detection. I can not believe how many strange looks I get when I tell guys this.


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## Tom R

Silicone caulk is only as messy as the operator . . .


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## Double-A

Tom R said:


> Silicone caulk is only as messy as the operator . . .












That might explain a few things...


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## cmwacasey

any caulk is only as messy as its operator.hats off to the good operators.it is a learned skill.i agree that it does explain a few things.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

journeyman1 said:


> Been a member a while but never talk much but here is my take. Latex caulking has its place but bathrooms and kitchens are not the place for it. I have been a painter for 25+ years and own a Maintenance company now. From my experience silicone tub and tile is best ANY where you stand a chance of having leaks or standing water or messy kids. Latex is water-based therefore water will break it down and cause it to deteriorate over time. That's the purpose of using silicone based caulks in wet or moist areas. Just my 2Cents. A properly installed floor and toilet shoud require NO caulking.


I have always used silicon only in bathrooms just because of it being more resistant to water and mould but I had a guy in SW tell that there's not a lot of difference anymore and if it's oil, latex, silicon etc etc that it's just a carrier and it's more to do with the quality of the product than what carrier is used. I still won't use latex in a shower or bath install but I have seen many people use it.


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## Trick1

Any of the ICC family of codes (International Residential Code, International Plumbing Code) call for any plumbing fixtures to be caulked and sealed to the adjacent walls or floors.

Pulling a water closet on a repair that hasn't been caulked usually results in a urine smell like no other


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## Tom M

We have used plaster of paris on many occassion. Providessome support, dries fast and solid.


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## Builttolast

Tom M said:


> We have used plaster of paris on many occassion. Providessome support, dries fast and solid.


I have not come across that yet, and when I do, I truly think I will be PI**ED  ... I do have to ask though, WHY plaster of paris of all things? Ive done alot of plumbing, but never used that to seal around a toilet...


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## stp57

IMO, the #1 reason to seal the toilet is so that Bubba, with his lard arse doesn't snap the plastic closet flange when he shifts his weight on the can.
Steve


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## hdavis

Double-A said:


> My main gripe with silicones is that they are too hard to clean off if the WC is pulled for some reason (because humans are only human after all and drop more down the potty than last nights meatloaf and iced tea, such as a hair brush, toothbrush, wallet, pager, cell phone, ninja turtle, batman, curler, nail file, dentures, toy cars, dolls... I've pulled all of these out of toilets, many that had to be pulled from the floor, taken outside and turned upside down).
> 
> The use of silicone is too permanent a solution in this situation. If I install the WC, I want to know that I can pull and reset it and seal the foot of the bowl to the floor just as well the second time as the first. That entails cleaning up the old sealant. Silicone is hard to clean off. Uncured (fresh) silicone does not stick to cured silicone. There is no effective solvent that will remove silicone that will not damage some floor finishes.
> 
> Why would I use silicone to seal down a toilet when a good 50 year siliconized latex caulk with a mildewcide in it is more expensive? I wouldn't. I use the more expensive siliconized latex with the 50 year warranty that I can remove from the floor and reseal the potty without any of the bother of silicone.
> 
> How did I come to this strange and awful place in which I stand all alone, decrying the use of silicone sealants for toilets? Experience. Years and years of experience pulling and resetting potties.


I do the same thing and use the same type of product for the same reasons. Chances are I'll be the one pulling, prepping, and reinstalling. Whether I caulk all around or leave a gap in the back depends on which way the floor slopes. Easy enough to see with a little cleaning solution on the floor.


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## Tom Struble

stp57 said:


> IMO, the #1 reason to seal the toilet is so that Bubba, with his lard arse doesn't snap the plastic closet flange when he shifts his weight on the can.
> Steve


HEY!!:w00t:


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## mdiack77

what ever happened to plaster?


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## ohiohomedoctor

I tack silicone in a few spots on toilets we install for people with young kids. It keeps them from turning the toilet and breaking the seal. I do not agree with caulking around the whole toilet for a couple reasons.


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## Tom M

mdiack77 said:


> what ever happened to plaster?


We use it from time to time. Its dries non porous, pure white and provides solid bedding for un even floors. Better than caulk or silicone.


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## Brian Peters

Mike Finley said:


> WHat's a western style commode? You mean an out house they haul in to the bathroom and set over the toilet flange?


 He was talking about the commodes we use here in America...


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## miillersickness

I love it when people use caulk in a situation that calls for silicone. Caulk is for wood trim man!


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## rex

i use clear latex, tub and tile caulk....i just don't feel right not caulking a toilet


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