# Steel Stud Primer



## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Greg Di said:


> For a basement, get all your studs precut at the supplier exactly to the height you need. Then get deep leg track so you can float the studs inside the track.
> 
> The only time you need to cut is for headers and such. It is absurdly fast doing it this way.


I had no clue either option was available. I bet that would be fast. :thumbsup:


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Yea but you pay to have the studs cut at special length. Especially for a small order.. more worth while to take the 25 min on a chop saw...

You can cut 20 or 22 ga studs extremely fast if you know the tricks.. 
Like Cutting bundles at once...

Or by hand

Like squezing the stud while cutting. And I always use left handed snips with the red handle...

I'm not a fan of metal studs in basements though...

Transfers noise, vibrations and cold from the floor above or vise versa, a lot more then wood...


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

That deep track does speed up time... 

I recommend something called slotted slip track...

Check it out..

http://sliptrack.com/


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## mrcharles (Sep 27, 2011)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7Zepr9gQTc

Cool tool, but I still think screws do a much better job. 



I used to work for a commercial framer, I loved the work and really enjoyed steel framing. That being said I think its a PITA to trim out. Basically the glue just holds the trim to the wall.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

mrcharles said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7Zepr9gQTc
> 
> Cool tool, but I still think screws do a much better job.


I would not trust they thing to hold together my walls. Plus a screw goes in just as fast.. Amagin how bad your hands would be cramped after a day of squeezing that thing... Owww


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## BC Carpenter (Dec 28, 2010)

I don't mind metal framing at all, although I've only done small amounts at a time. Nice that your stud will always be nice and strait, way lighter too.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

In regards to trim,if you install 2x6 blocking every or every other bay you will have plenty to nail into, especially since your track leg is only 1 1/4. We still run a bead of glue on the bottom,but that's it. If i have a whole wall of millwork and casing ill install plywood on the wall prior to rocking,and than have plenty of blocking the length of the wall.

Other option is trim screws,but i find its easier to just install the blocking during framing.

Getting them to pay for it is another animal.

For doors its just a double stud on each side for added support,the legs and clips hold everything in. I do however use heavier gauge for door frames,usually 18g.

As for the dimpiler, I have one but I never use it for permanent framing. The only thing its good for is if i want it tacked in temporarily if I'm floating on side of the wall before rock.

If you don't have one, don't waste your money.

I can't say its easier than wood for a primarily wood framer,but since its mostly all I've ever done, I'm 10x faster framing a lgmf wall vs a wood one.


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

Rich D. said:


> Yea but you pay to have the studs cut at special length. Especially for a small order.. more worth while to take the 25 min on a chop saw...
> 
> You can cut 20 or 22 ga studs extremely fast if you know the tricks..
> Like Cutting bundles at once...
> ...


Right handed snips are red
Left handed are green
20 or 25 gauge
I don't agree at all metals great for basements

Stud crimper is a good tool to crimp one side


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

detroit687 said:


> Right handed snips are red
> Left handed are green
> 20 or 25 gauge
> I don't agree at all metals great for basements
> ...


I guess your not around metal studs alot....

The make 22 ga studs... I've used them.. they just don't sell them at big box stores...

http://www.phillipsmfg.com/products/mcif/drywall.htm 

And I'm sorry to inform you left handed snips are red and right handed is green. Yellows are straight...

http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Left-Hand-Wiss-Aviation/dp/B001Q5WIEO


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Rich D. said:


> I guess your not around metal studs alot....
> 
> The make 22 ga studs... I've used them.. they just don't sell them at big box stores...
> 
> ...


You are correct about the snips. I should know, I'm a lefty! :clap:

Your also correct about the gauge, however keep in mind that they are much more rare, and even in the few instances they are spec'ed on a project, they usually get an addendum in lieu of 20g.

I personally like the 22g, because there not as flimsy as 25, but can still be cut faster than 20g.


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

Rich D. said:


> I guess your not around metal studs alot....
> 
> The make 22 ga studs... I've used them.. they just don't sell them at big box stores...
> 
> ...


I don't know about that model
But I've had wiss midwest and Stanley right handed snips worked with hundreds of commercial carpenters framed for many years and I've only seen
Right handers red handle left paternal
Leftys green handle right pattern
Reds cut half moon towards the left waste on the right


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

detroit687 said:


> Reds cut half moon towards the left waste on the right


So your saying reds lefty? I agree!!! :laughing:


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## sandshots (Feb 7, 2012)

first of all make sure your layout clears for your top track and go to town. for concrete floors i shoot my bottom track with a hilti dx460, depending on the application ill put in some anchors specially 6" from each king stud at the door openings.
for doors around 30" a track header with 4" shoes is plenty, for a double door like french doors go with a box header and maybe 18g king studs, its all depending on height.

backing, make sure you add backing for anything that the owner plans on hanging, like cabinets, ending of soffits, etc. i usually use 6" track with a tounge on each side for backing. 
if your floor is pretty level, get a chop saw so you can cut multiple studs at once. if the floor varies dont cut all your studs, you might end up short on one side.
i would go with some slip track, to allow for movement.:thumbup


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## sandshots (Feb 7, 2012)

on corners, do not butt the tracks to each other. cut the flange on one of the tracks to allow for overlap and shoot down, do the same for the top track, and go with a 3 stud corner for drywall application.


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## sandshots (Feb 7, 2012)

mrcharles said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7Zepr9gQTc
> 
> Cool tool, but I still think screws do a much better job.
> 
> ...


we use glue and nails, not nails to the studs but to the drywall, shoot them in at a 45 degree angle alternating. for that trim to come out all of the nails would have bend out. so with glue, nails, and cualk, its secure.


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## sandshots (Feb 7, 2012)

Rich D. said:


> That deep track does speed up time...
> 
> I recommend something called slotted slip track...
> 
> ...


this track is also referred as seismic track, leaving the studs cut to inspectors lenght say about 3/4" shorter, it allows for movement of the upper floor to minimize damage to the steel stud wall. though slip track can be modified to be used for many applications, it might not be to code.


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## FramingPro (Jan 31, 2010)

steel framing looks kinda cool.
Sharp but cool. 
They are doing some outside my school for infill between the structural steel and its kinda like damn these guys are framers too :thumbup:
commercial carpentry is kinda cool to me because of the size of the jobs. and its just a different setting then residential


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

sandshots said:


> this track is also referred as seismic track, leaving the studs cut to inspectors lenght say about 3/4" shorter, it allows for movement of the upper floor to minimize damage to the steel stud wall. though slip track can be modified to be used for many applications, it might not be to code.


Correct! :thumbsup: its used a lot when going up to q decking to help with expansion and contraction


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

Rich D. said:


> So your saying reds lefty? I agree!!! :laughing:


With your right hand grab your red handled snips. Cut both edges of stud while holding with your left hand. Half moon cut towards your left and watch your cut off fall to the floor. Vise versa for green


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## sandshots (Feb 7, 2012)

detroit687 said:


> With your right hand grab your red handled snips. Cut both edges of stud while holding with your left hand. Half moon cut towards your left and watch your cut off fall to the floor. Vise versa for green


or use the red snips upside down on your right hand to make a straight cut.


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