# Wall makeup for tight wood stove clearance



## UpNorth (May 17, 2007)

Probably not the right forum for this q, but here goes.

Space planning for this particular design dictates the wood stove have its back as close to the exterior wall as possible. Manufacturer specs say that if the wall is noncombustible, the space should be 4 inches minimum for air circulation. Otherwise, 20 inches. We need the 16.

Now, what about that wall, which is wood-framed in 2x6 and insulated with dense-pac cellulose. What is done to finish the inside surface?

Or is it that no matter what is used, the wall is considered combustible?

Am sure my wood stove specialist knows this and can answer tomorrow, but I thought I might get a good answer today.


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## A. Spruce (Aug 6, 2010)

Last one of these I had to deal with required a 1" thick masonry/tile wall directly behind the stove with a 1" air gap between the masonry and wall. Stove STILL had a minimum rear clearance, though too many years have passed and I can't remember at this point what it was.

Code requirements in your area may vary.


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## UpNorth (May 17, 2007)

Thanks. I did a little investigation via web crawls, and found similar stuff.

Noncombustible standoff supports. One-inch air gap. Noncombustible heat shield, w x h per stove manufacturer's specs.


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## A. Spruce (Aug 6, 2010)

Mine had to be floor to ceiling and I vaguely recall 2' wider than the stove (1' on each side ).


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

You could probably call the fire marshal and they could tell you what the requirement is for your area. I would think something like cement board spaced and inch off the wall covered by some type of sheet metal would work well and look pretty good.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

cut 1" pieces of copper tubing for stand-offs.


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## Jeremy E (Jul 19, 2006)

Any chance of opting for a pellet stove over a wood-burning stove. I'm no expert, but I believe the code clearances allow for tighter installation than for a wood stove. When I installed mine, it passed inspection with just a double-walled vent pipe poked through the wall to the exterior, as well. No special wall surfaces required.


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## B.D.R. (May 22, 2007)

I just did one last month. I live on Vancouver island BC.
Copper tubing was not acceptable (conductive)? I used two layers of concrete boarboard cut into strips as stand offs .then screwed concrete board to that and tiled it. Wood trim around the edge was OK because it was far enough away it was a bit of apain in the a%#. to find out what would work. but in the end it looked great.


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

*Fireplace codes and regulations*

Your local code will trump the manufactures specs and these specs vary from city to city and country to country.

Does your wood burning stove vent through the wall above the fireplace or up and out the ceiling. This can change things greatly depending on the venting specs.

Adding 1/2" concrete board to the wall studs and covering that with tile would be a safe bet and I'm sure this would pass your local inspection. Most times you need to go 2" to 12" left and right and 16" to 28" above with the non combustible material. This will depend on the BTU output of your unit.

Venting kits are tricky and your installer or supplier will have many options for your walls make up. We have installed many fireplace here in Vancouver and I always leave this spec to the Fireplace Supplier as they are the ones pulling the permit and understand the make up of each system.

A typical fireplace instal can consist of one fireplace and up to 30 - 50 speciality pieces to take the fumes out of your home. Each home and roof line differs and local code can change every 25 miles.

Good Luck.

Lets us know what your local expert comes up with.

JW


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

jlhaslip said:


> cut 1" pieces of copper tubing for stand-offs.





B.D.R. said:


> I just did one last month. I live on Vancouver island BC.
> Copper tubing was not acceptable (conductive)? I used two layers of concrete boarboard cut into strips as stand offs .then screwed concrete board to that and tiled it. Wood trim around the edge was OK because it was far enough away it was a bit of apain in the a%#. to find out what would work. but in the end it looked great.


I use ceramic, electric fencing insulators.


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## DavidC (Feb 16, 2008)

Last one for me was steel studs on the flat for the airspace, 5/8" type x sheet rock and a Z brick finish. 

Good Luck
Dave


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## UpNorth (May 17, 2007)

Good info as re standoff options and finish. Thanks to those that contributed.

Am trying to talk the client into one of the LP stoves. Looks exactly like the woodburner, starts with a remote clicker, can be turned up or down depending on how much heat output is wanted, nice looking log kit inside, pretty realistic fire.

These can be positioned far closer to the wall, and don't require the shielding.


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## B.D.R. (May 22, 2007)

i was not allowed to put concrete board directly onto the studs,or directly onto the drywall. It also had to be 3' off of the floor.


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## Panama Wayne (Jan 10, 2011)

www hearth.com tons of great info


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