# 5 level of drywall finish



## jmthouston (Apr 2, 2006)

hello

:cheesygri :cowboy: not a contractor but tradesman 

new to drywall forum but not contractor talk 

Where could I get a course/training/ and/or just a pdf for the five levels of drywall finish 

Found the National gypsum website but I know i found a pdf a while back just can't it through a google now. 
I appreciate any thread!


jmt


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

go to: drywallconstruction.com/levels of finish.htm 

sorry, contractortalk wont let me paste links til I have 15 posts  .

Anyway, the site has a good amount of information on all levels of drywall finishing, also has the appropriate painting techniques that coencide with the levels of finishing..hope it helps!:thumbsup:


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

usg.com/products/moldandmoisture/pdfs/J1*5*64.pdf 

oh,yea there is a link for a PDF is you prefer, mostly the same thing, little more detail however. Straight from USG..just copy and paste!!!!


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## jmthouston (Apr 2, 2006)

*Thanks*

Thank you Mud Master :thumbup:


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Yup. :thumbsup:


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## RockStar (May 11, 2006)

*Levels of Finish*

The levels of finish were incorporated by the Drywall Finishing Council Incorporated.
This is a council with all the major drywall manufacturers.
Do a search on Levels of finish and you can download the PDF.

Keep it because it comes in handy when dealing with an owner or architect that spec-ed a level four when they should have spec-ed a level five because of "critical lighting". 

The best way to keep from having a problem in the future and on larger projects is to do a mock-up of a level 4 and present it BEFORE starting the project.
I hope this helps............
~Bill


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## r_t_interiors (Mar 10, 2007)

I am self taught in all the trades. Jack of all Master of paint. What do you mean by 5 levels


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

r_t_interiors said:


> I am self taught in all the trades. Jack of all Master of paint. What do you mean by 5 levels


Never mind, look at the post below.


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Actually, that link is broke, so here you go:


Levels Of Gypsum Board Finish

LEVEL 0: No taping, finishing or accessories required. This level of finish may be useful in temporary construction or whenever the final decoration has not been determined.

LEVEL 1: All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable. This level of finish often referred to as "fire taping", is frequently specified in plenum areas above ceilings, in attics, in areas where the assembly would generally be concealed, or in building service corridors and other areas not normally open to public view. Accessories (cornerbead, base shoe other trims) optional at specifier discretion in corridors and other areas with pedestrian traffic.

LEVEL 2: All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and one separate coat of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound, tool marks and ridges are acceptable. This level of finish is specified where water resistant drywall is used as a substrate for tile; may be specified in garages, warehouse storage or other similar areas where surface appearance is not of primary concern.

LEVEL 3: All joints and interior angles shall be tape embedded in joint compound and two coats of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a primer/sealer prior to the application of final finishes. This level of finish is typically specified in appearance areas which are to receive heavy or medium texture (spray or hand applied) finishes before final painting, or where heavy-grade wall coverings are to be applied as the final decoration.

LEVEL 4: All joints and interior angles shall be tape embedded in joint compound and three coats of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a primer/sealer prior to the application of final finishes. This level of finish is typically specified where light textures or wall coverings are to be applied, or economy is of concern.

LEVEL 5: All joints and interior angles shall be tape embedded in joint compound and three separate coats of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. A thin skim coat of joint compound, or a material manufactured especially for this purpose, shall be applied to the surface. The surface shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a primer/sealer prior to the application of final finishes. This level of finish is recommended where gloss, semi gloss, enamel or nontextured flat paints are specified or where severe side lighting conditions occur. This highest quality finish is the most effective method to provide a uniform surface and minimize the possibility of joint photographing and of fasteners showing through the final decoration. (note: Application of primer/paint products over Level 4 and Level 5 smooth finish: Industry experience demonstrates an effective method for achieving a visually uniform surface for both the primer and topcoat is spray application immediately followed by back rolling or roller application using good roller techniques such as finishing in one direction and using roller types and naps recommended by the paint manufacturer.


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*hmmm.....interesting.......*

I can quickly achive a level 5 appearance by "mopping" the walls with a slightly damp sponge style mop. I've done this before. ..After sanding and it brings me the identical results. I even inspected 2 ceilings I did with a 500watt halogen light. On the 1 ceiling, I actually did skim the entire area ceiling, and on the other I just mopped it after I sanded it. I couldn't see the difference. I would only do this on a smooth/untextured ceiling. Level 5 here in my area is unheard of. When we do our final sand we look over with a 500watt and hand sand everything......everyone else does this right? In 5 years I never did a level 5, maybe except the occasional smooth ceiling. It's interesting though because when I talk to some contact I have in south carolina, they always bring up this level 5.
I would have to be paid some big bucks to go that route.


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## clogman1 (Feb 25, 2007)

If you mop things........Do you get janitor wages?


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## RockStar (May 11, 2006)

*Level 5 Paint*

There are some great paints that offer a level 5.
You would bring the walls up to a good level four and spray a certain paint to achieve a level 5.
The one I use is called Tuff-Hide by USG. It has a high amount of solids and goes on really thick (approx. 15 to 20 mils). The advantages are that you are applying the fifth level as well as the prime coat and it can be tinted.
You figure a can of joint compound is around $12.00 and a five gallon can of decent primer is $50.00. This stuff only runs about $45.00 a 5-gal can so it's not bad.
As a matter of fact the literature even says you don't have to paint over it if you don't want to.

Be careful, it's not self leveling paint. It will make a good job GREAT but will also make a bad job worse.

It helps to determine who will be applying the product before you take the job. Either the painter or drywaller will be doing one less coat so someone needs to get paid for it.

Good luck!


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*clogman1........*

moppin up the competition................


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## JL_COG (Oct 8, 2008)

*Category 5 finish*

Category five is for preventing the 'telegraphing' of the surface difference between the compound surface and the paper surface of the finished surfaces when a semi-gloss, gloss or egg-shell paint is going to be used. Since it is a wipe-on wipe-off of compound before brushing down (sanding) it isn't really much more trouble than the 'mopping' you described. I suspect you have been fortunate not to have had any problems in that these types of paint may not have been used. There is more detail on this subject but this should siffice for now. Just trying to be helpful, JL.


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## TCDI (Oct 9, 2008)

*subcontractor*

Im a subcontractor I do metal framing and drywall
Any damages in your home office buildings ect. give me a call
at 832-519-6317 ask for Fidencio


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## Brocktologist (Sep 16, 2008)

TCDI said:


> Im a subcontractor I do metal framing and drywall
> Any damages in your home office buildings ect. give me a call
> at 832-519-6317 ask for Fidencio


We should Jihad his fricken phone!:laughing:

This should be fun.:thumbsup:


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