# Screen/Storm Door on Entry Doory



## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

see see see


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## dougchips (Apr 23, 2006)

Patrick said:


> Doug what you smokin? You use them wierdo doors don't you? On a 6 an 9 door the mulls are 6 an 9 so again you are just adding 1 at least on a thermatru and a stanley.
> 
> DONT MAKE me take a picture for you tommorow


LOL, this thread has some of my pictures doing a buildout on a 4 9/16th" jamb. http://www.contractortalk.com/f4/anyone-know-where-i-can-find-stormdoor-door-side-lights-24990/

It's funny that we are doing them on the same brands of doors and coming up with different numbers. I can't keep track of who is assembling the Thermatru doors now.....I think Reeb but the buildout has always been the same over the past 15 years.

BTW, I might be heading out to Western MA next Tuesday to visit a friend, now I'll be driving around measuring mull projections to see which one of us is crazy. :jester:


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

tomstruble said:


> so you add a stop to the top of the door that flushes out with the mulls?


No you add 1" to the face of the mulls to flush them with the lower flat part of the brickmould


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

dougchips said:


> LOL, this thread has some of my pictures doing a buildout on a 4 9/16th" jamb. http://www.contractortalk.com/f4/anyone-know-where-i-can-find-stormdoor-door-side-lights-24990/
> 
> It's funny that we are doing them on the same brands of doors and coming up with different numbers. I can't keep track of who is assembling the Thermatru doors now.....I think Reeb but the buildout has always been the same over the past 15 years.
> 
> BTW, I might be heading out to Western MA next Tuesday to visit a friend, now I'll be driving around measuring mull projections to see which one of us is crazy. :jester:


Ill buy you a beer seriously :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: I need some of your wise business advice. (at least you serve some purpose to me obviously its not installing storm doors on doors with side lites)


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

thats what i do Patrick,i was having a hard time following Doug and where he mounts the l shaped weather strip he was refering to


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

WOW DOUG THATS CRAZY I just looked at your post We get our doors from Harvey and they are NOT like that.  

Why would they build it with that narrow of a mull????????? I could kick that door in easily


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## dougchips (Apr 23, 2006)

Patrick said:


> WOW DOUG THATS CRAZY I just looked at your post We get our doors from Harvey and they are NOT like that.
> 
> Why would they build it with that narrow of a mull????????? I could kick that door in easily


Lol, that's why I don't like to build out the 6.5" jambs all the way! Since the mulls are finger jointed you can kick them in with ease. I've seen storm doors that got caught in the wind pull the mulls most of the way off in the past


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## dougchips (Apr 23, 2006)

Patrick said:


> Ill buy you a beer seriously :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: I need some of your wise business advice. (at least you serve some purpose to me obviously its not installing storm doors on doors with side lites)


Huh, free beer.......I'll go out of my way for free beer:thumbsup:


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

I run into these all the time and this is what I do.
Take a piece of 1x and laminate it to a piece of 5/4. This gives you the 2" width of the mullion. Rip it to however deep you need it...2", 3". screw those to the original mullions with the appropriate sized screw. This will make your jamb extension as strong as the actual door jamb. Toe a screw into the bottom of the jamb extension right into the aluminum sill. Then take a piece of 5/4 and rip it so it is 1"x 5/4. screw that into your mullion extensions so it is flush with the brickmoulding. That gives the reveal on the sidelight side and the door side.
This is only for the 6and 9 or deeper jambs. For the 4and 9's with the continuous sills I take a piece of 5/4, rip it to 2", screw that to the original mullions then screw the 1"x5/4 onto that to get me flush with the brickmoulding and keep the reveals for the door and sidelights. This is for ThermaTru. There are some other doors you run into that are similar yet different in small ways. The worst is when the builder trimmed with Fypon across the top and the fypon sticks out farther than the door sill.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

thanks Tim:thumbsup:


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

dougchips said:


> Out of interest, how are you securing a piece of stock that's 1.5" x 4.25" so it does not warp over a 1/16th of an inch?


I need more coffee. The 2X ripping I add is only a couple of inches, applied to the face of the mull. I haven't had any warping issues, unless I've used lousy stock or failed to paint it promptly in order to seal it.

But details aside, I think it's been adequately demonstrated to the OP that padding out, however you do it, is the only real solution. I've never had the pleasure of seeing that Thermatru option--probably just as well. I'd be spoiled for life.


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## LNG24 (Oct 30, 2005)

Patrick said:


> WOW DOUG THATS CRAZY I just looked at your post We get our doors from Harvey and they are NOT like that.
> 
> Why would they build it with that narrow of a mull????????? I could kick that door in easily


 
Patrick, Dougs picture is EXACTLY how my doors are. The mulls are so narrow the door handle protrudes well past the surface plane of the mulls. It would have been easier to explain if I had my camera, but looks like many of you had the same problem.

Doug, thanks for the link to the other thread. Great Help.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

*Update*

UPDATE

I went to the jobsite today. We get our doors direct from a wholesaler that assembles their own doors in their own shops, the mulls are always the same as the main jamb size.

We are doing a new construction job and the doors were installed by the builder from a lumberyard and they were assembled by one of the massive mill work companies and these doors have the tiny mull like Doug gets. So I guess it depends on where you are buying the doors from.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

ive never seen the tiny mulls
now i get the L shaped weather strip:thumbsup:thanks Doug and Patrick


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

FYI, those small mullions vs full size are known in the ThermaTru catalog as "continuous sill" unit vs "boxed" unit. You'll play h$^^ trying to fit a boxed unit in the RO of a continuos sill unit since the continuos sill units are narrower than the boxed. Easily 95% of the newer developments here have the narrower continuous sill ThermaTru's in them, mainly because they are cheaper than boxed units.


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## LNG24 (Oct 30, 2005)

Once I explained to the HO what had to be done, she decided to move the screen door to the standard 36" side door. Whew! The pics here helped with that decision. At least the architectural design of the entrance has been kept in tact. 

Then it was up to the attic to open the sheathing from the inside because the siders didn't do it when installing the Gable End Vents. What exactly is the purpose of a Gable End Vent if you don't remove the plywood behind it? FYI: It's a brand new home.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

most new homes have a ridge vent so the gable ones are usually installed for looks


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

LNG24 said:


> Once I explained to the HO what had to be done, she decided to move the screen door to the standard 36" side door. Whew! The pics here helped with that decision. At least the architectural design of the entrance has been kept in tact.
> 
> Then it was up to the attic to open the sheathing from the inside because the siders didn't do it when installing the Gable End Vents. What exactly is the purpose of a Gable End Vent if you don't remove the plywood behind it? FYI: It's a brand new home.


 If the house has a ridge vent, the gable vents should not be operable. The ridge vent should draw air in from the soffit vent to effect airflow across the bottom of the roof deck.:thumbsup: If no ridgevent, you need to open up the gable vents.


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