# Which compound sliding miter saw?



## Donnie D. (Feb 27, 2013)

which one guys for around 300-400..im on a budget


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

Donnie D. said:


> which one guys for around 300-400..im on a budget


I have the 10" dewalt slider. 449 right now at lowes. I'm impressed by the saw. Also look at the 10" Makita dual rail slider, a lot of guys on here like it not sure of the price.


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## Donnie D. (Feb 27, 2013)

this makita http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202757...51&N=25ecodZ5yc1vZyg&R=202757212#.UVZgbnDEW-M


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

Donnie D. said:


> this makita http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202757212?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=miter+saw&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1vZyg&R=202757212#.UVZgbnDEW-M


That's the one. Heard only good things about that saw. Those would be my choices based on your price point.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Reconditioned .....for that budget is the only way to go. IMO

DeWalt

Bosch

Makita with out laser or with laser

Milwuakee 12"

Hitachi 12"

All have plus and negatives. Heard bad about all and have heard good about all. Buy recon and you get a good price with warranty. Can't go wrong....once again IMO.


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## mbryan (Dec 6, 2010)

What are you wanting it for?

Some of the small ones such as the ls0714 are very capable. Sometimes I wish I would have gotten that over the ls1016 just for the weight savings. If your going to set up for a week than not an issue but for a dozen cuts it would be nice to have a small one.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

I also suggest the DeWalt DW717 and Makita LS1016


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

DW712 might be the price range you're looking for but may be hard to find, Remanned or used.


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## Carpenter eyes (Jan 10, 2012)

If you can find one, dewalt dw708. I got mine for about 250ish. It is one sweet saw.


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## renov8r (Feb 16, 2013)

RIDGID has a 10" model for $399.99 which should be available in your area since its listed in the HD webpage.


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## JohnKaznecki (Mar 7, 2012)

Make sure you take Harbor Freight coupon with you when you buy at a big chain store. I just bought a 500.00 saw for 400.00 no questions asked. Can't go wrong.


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## MF Custom (May 3, 2009)

JohnKaznecki said:


> Make sure you take Harbor Freight coupon with you when you buy at a big chain store. I just bought a 500.00 saw for 400.00 no questions asked. Can't go wrong.


Wow really?


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## JohnKaznecki (Mar 7, 2012)

Yes, I know you all know about it. This is why I said "remember"


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

I think the lso714 is a greatest. But that's over 400 so I would get the Hitachi 8.5 inch slider


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## Donnie D. (Feb 27, 2013)

im using the saws for all types of wood working..framing,base,window,door,crown molding


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Donnie D. said:


> im using the saws for all types of wood working..framing,base,window,door,crown molding


I recently bought a new miter saw because I too use a 12" DeWalt for framing. It has taken a bit of a toll on it so I wanted something set aside for trim work.

My suggestion would be to use it as little as possible on framing until you are able to dedicate a different saw for either purpose.


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## Jswills76 (Nov 12, 2012)

detroit687 said:


> I think the lso714 is a greatest. But that's over 400 so I would get the Hitachi 8.5 inch slider


714 is great it's what i usebut the Hitachi has horrible reviews they didn't make it like the old ones.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

The new Rigid 10" is right at $400. Doesn't seem like a bad design overall. Granted I've only messed around with the display at HD.


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

My choice for that price point would also have been the Makita 10" slider (hunt for a sale and you should be able to get pretty darn close).

Are the Rigid 10"s as heavy (proportionally) as the 12"s because those are freakin' beasts.


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## MKnAs Dad (Mar 20, 2011)

moorewarner said:


> My choice for that price point would also have been the Makita 10" slider (hunt for a sale and you should be able to get pretty darn close).
> 
> Are the Rigid 10"s as heavy (proportionally) as the 12"s because those are freakin' beasts.


IIRC, the ridgid is listed at 46lb


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

schaefercs said:


> Sorry to hijack your thread, but since its on topic hopefully I won't get it too bad.
> 
> I found a dw708 for 250 on Craigslist in what appears to be great condition. Go or no go? Advantages and disadvantages?


708 was a great saw in its day....still is a great saw if its in good condition. I would take it over a 718 any day of the week.


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## Carpenter eyes (Jan 10, 2012)

schaefercs said:


> Sorry to hijack your thread, but since its on topic hopefully I won't get it too bad.
> 
> I found a dw708 for 250 on Craigslist in what appears to be great condition. Go or no go? Advantages and disadvantages?


I got my dewalt 708 about a year ago.

I love the thing. Been useing it real heavy in the last few days doing trim and odds and ends. Cuts dead nuts, not to loud, the handle feels good. Dentents are ok to find.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

TBFGhost said:


> 708 was a great saw in its day....still is a great saw if its in good condition. I would take it over a 718 any day of the week.


I haven't used the 708 personally but I have heard from a few guys that used to use them that they don't like the new ones. They say the 708 tracked different, like when you pulled the saw out to cut something wide the blade on the new one goes lower. Who knows...

If you aren't getting the kapex my vote would be for the dewalt slider but I am biased as its all I have used.


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## valparaiso (Mar 9, 2010)

dewalt 780.

the led light is great. couple it with a fast cap saw hood.


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## krist (Dec 2, 2011)

I have had the Makita Ls1016L for about 2 1/2 years now. Very smooth saw. The gripes I have are: the 90 degree bevel stop is a joke. I have to square it up every time I flip the bevel. It explodes way too much when cutting smaller moldings like scocia. The miter lock twist is just plain strange. Before this saw I bought the 12" Dewalt for the greater capacity than my previous makitas but had to return 2 of them because the fence was not square to the table. I really like the dewalt features, except for the nonsoft start, and would buy the 10" if I could find one with a true fence. IMO you don't need a 12" any more because of the way the manufacturers are designing the saws to use the back of the blade to get just about the same capacity in a 10". By the way, I've always had Makita chop saws and am sad to say I don't like the new one. Good luck!


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## rstarre (Dec 19, 2008)

JackP23 said:


> I know I may get kicked off CT, but I actually have a cordless Ryobi I use for punch list stuff and small jobs like running shoe etc. I already use the battery system so the saw cost me around 65.00.
> 
> It's got it's issues but it sure comes in handy.
> 
> ...


Jack, I agree with MAXWAGE. Who cares what anyone thinks as long as your Ryobi saw gets the job done. I gave my Ryobi cordless saw away to a relative because at the time I thought it was beneath a builder to own one. Now I am sorry I did. After I gave it away, I realized how convenient that battery operated saw really was for quick jobs. Back in 2005, I bought it out of desperation. Someone had stole the electric meter & copper wire on a new construction house i was working on. I did not want to drive the 40 miles back home to get a generator. I had only about 3 hours work to finish up on this job. There was a Home Depot nearby. So I bought the Ryobi cordelss saw to finish the job. The guy behind the contractors desk charged the batteries for me. About 6 months later I bought a Ryobi combo kit to keep in my van at all times. If a thief got into my van one day, I be out less than 90 dollars instead of 300 plus for a Dewalt or Makita combo set. I began using the Ryobi everyday without a problem. Now I have my three Dewalt cordless drills collecting dust in the garage. I've been using Ryobi drills along with my Milwaukee tools everyday without a problem. I just bought a Ryobi cordless trim nailer for a $119 dollars that works a well as a my Passlode.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

I wouldn't let anyone with Ryobi tools come near my job site...


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## JackP23 (Jan 1, 2013)

rstarre said:


> Jack, I agree with MAXWAGE. Who cares what anyone thinks as long as your Ryobi saw gets the job done. I gave my Ryobi cordless saw away to a relative because at the time I thought it was beneath a builder to own one. Now I am sorry I did. After I gave it away, I realized how convenient that battery operated saw really was for quick jobs. Back in 2005, I bought it out of desperation. Someone had stole the electric meter & copper wire on a new construction house i was working on. I did not want to drive the 40 miles back home to get a generator. I had only about 3 hours work to finish up on this job. There was a Home Depot nearby. So I bought the Ryobi cordelss saw to finish the job. The guy behind the contractors desk charged the batteries for me. About 6 months later I bought a Ryobi combo kit to keep in my van at all times. If a thief got into my van one day, I be out less than 90 dollars instead of 300 plus for a Dewalt or Makita combo set. I began using the Ryobi everyday without a problem. Now I have my three Dewalt cordless drills collecting dust in the garage. I've been using Ryobi drills along with my Milwaukee tools everyday without a problem. I just bought a Ryobi cordless trim nailer for a $119 dollars that works a well as a my Passlode.


Got my eye on that little nailer as well........I do miss setting up my hitachi slider in the front yard for 4 sticks of shoe. 

Guess I could learn to live without getting my compressor out....hauling it up the stairs to shoot 8 nails. :thumbup:

Does it work?

_____________
Mike


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

JackP23 said:


> Got my eye on that little nailer as well........I do miss setting up my hitachi slider in the front yard for 4 sticks of shoe.
> 
> Guess I could learn to live without getting my compressor out....*hauling it up the stairs to shoot 8 nails.* :thumbup:
> 
> ...


doesn't anyone know how to use a hammer and nail set anymore? :blink:


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

m1911 said:


> doesn't anyone know how to use a hammer and nail set anymore? :blink:


I am 25 and can honestly say the thought of putting up a piece of trim with a hammer and nail set has never crossed my mind. Would not even be an option on the table for no other reason that it isn't. Must be a generational thing...


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

m1911 said:


> doesn't anyone know how to use a hammer and nail set anymore? :blink:


I'm 20 and I can say on occasion I have used a hammer and nails set, I actually enjoy it somewhat, make me feel old school. Doing it this way is def not for lack for nail guns either.


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## Carpenter eyes (Jan 10, 2012)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I'm 20 and I can say on occasion I have used a hammer and nails set, I actually enjoy it somewhat, make me feel old school. Doing it this way is def not for lack for nail guns either.


Ive trimmed entire rooms by hammer while waiting on a compressor.


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

Carpenter eyes said:


> Ive trimmed entire rooms by hammer while waiting on a compressor.


I find it to be kinda fun doing it that way, I mean anyone can pull a gun trigger. Most of the time I done for time sake, I just not that fast.


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## Carpenter eyes (Jan 10, 2012)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I find it to be kinda fun doing it that way, I mean anyone can pull a gun trigger. Most of the time I done for time sake, I just not that fast.


I like to think it keeps ya sharp. Plus what carpenter dosnt like to pound a box or 2 of hand bangers


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

krist said:


> The gripes I have are: the 90 degree bevel stop is a joke. I have to square it up every time I flip the bevel. It explodes way too much when cutting smaller moldings like scocia. The miter lock twist is just plain strange.


I am not saying the LS1016 is the best but I haven't had any of the problems you stated. 

I trust my 90" bevel stop, I check it now and again and had always been fine.

The exploding small stock might have to do with one of two things, the kerf plates are too low or high and the off cut is falling into the blade as it gets cut off or the fence are not parallel AND in plane. What happens is if they fences are not in plane, the stock is slightly off of one of the fences and as you complete the cut it gets pushed back into that fence which closes down the kerf causing it to catch on a tooth and BOOM.... When ever I am cutting anything smaller then base cap...and alot of it, I install an aux table and fence....not one part has gotten caught up since.

The miter lock is fine...Yeah DeWalt is better but I am sure they have the patent on that so Makita can't use it.


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## krist (Dec 2, 2011)

TBFGhost said:


> I trust my 90" bevel stop, I check it now and again and had always been fine.
> 
> I install an aux table and fence....not one part has gotten caught up since.
> 
> The miter lock is fine...Yeah DeWalt is better but I am sure they have the patent on that so Makita can't use it.



Maybe my bevel stop is bad. I'll have to look into that. I always use an aux fence for the small stuff but never thought of the table. Thanks for that. Yeah the miter lock is rock solid but what happened to righty tighty, lefty loosie thing? I might add that I have a tool addiction problem.:whistling


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## JackP23 (Jan 1, 2013)

m1911 said:


> doesn't anyone know how to use a hammer and nail set anymore? :blink:


I drive pins with my framer all the time.....it's a very nice finish!:whistling


Back to the OP....this is a nice saw.....you might get a refurb somewhere

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FS...7250&sr=1-7&keywords=hitachi+sliding+compound


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## van-island (Dec 6, 2012)

Got the Bosch 4310 about a year ago, no regrets. Love the thing.

Well made, accurate and just feels good using it.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

krist said:


> Yeah the miter lock is rock solid but what happened to righty tighty, lefty loosie thing? I might add that I have a tool addiction problem.:whistling


Ok, never thought about it before, in fact I can't remember which way it locks and unlocks, but if you turn it right to unlock then I can see that being 'backwards'....

As far as the stop maybe you get saw dust built up? I dunno.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

m1911 said:


> doesn't anyone know how to use a hammer and nail set anymore? :blink:


I'd say I can swing a hammer as well as anyone and I would walk 100 yards to the truck for my nail guns to shoot a dozen nails.....primarily because I don't keep anything but gun nails on the job.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I hate to hand nail I di not have as many guns as lone but I do own 14 guns.


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## JackP23 (Jan 1, 2013)

When I die.......I want a twenty one nail gun salute!!

:balloon:

____________
Mike


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

loneframer said:


> I'd say I can swing a hammer as well as anyone and I would walk 100 yards to the truck for my nail guns to shoot a dozen nails.....primarily because I don't keep anything but gun nails on the job.



you can't count those 6 shiittty HF ones in there... :laughing:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

m1911 said:


> *I * would stay away from Ridgid power tools.


...except for their wormdrive......


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

loneframer said:


>


Boy, for a lone framer, you sure have a lot of guns.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

StrongTower said:


> Even though I used to run a 10" blade on my old 12" dewalt for rail parts and nicer miters.


What blade did you use? I've thought about that, but have only come across 5/8 arbors on 10s.


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

CO762 said:


> What blade did you use? I've thought about that, but have only come across 5/8 arbors on 10s.


On Dewalts you can run either 5/8 or 1" arbor. Just has an insert that comes off.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Oh yeah, that's the PITA thing that I have to chase around every time I change the blade.   

Went to HD today and while there, checked out the dw slider. I extended it out and easily could move it I'd guess 1/8 to either side. Slid easily though. They had a pallet of them there for $339 or something close. I got the non sliding 716 for around that price....and I got the better deal.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

The DEWALT DW717 is the one to get...


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## Donnie D. (Feb 27, 2013)

m1911 said:


> The DEWALT DW717 is the one to get...


yea ive got my eye on that one!


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

Just make sure to get the LED worklight. Once you use it, you'll wonder how you survived with out one.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

StrongTower said:


> Just make sure to get the LED worklight. Once you use it, you'll wonder how you survived with out one.


Unless you use the laser then it could make it difficult to see.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> Unless you use the laser then it could make it difficult to see.


me thinks the LED light is more useful than the crappy laser! :blink:


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

m1911 said:


> me thinks the LED light is more useful than the crappy laser! :blink:


The laser on the kapex, I find very useful


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

m1911 said:


> me thinks the LED light is more useful than the crappy laser! :blink:


The Dewalt worklight system is the bees knees for interior trim...prob only reason I run Dewalts, that Kapex is sooooo appealing, I would miss the worklight.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> The laser on the kapex, I find very useful


yes it is, I was referring to the Dewalt.


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

I have the DW717 and do not like it what so ever. It is not user friendly at all. The blade gaurd has to be thumbed to see what you are cutting. Where the blade passes through the clearance insert is solid. So your fine scrap pieces and dust get trapped in it. The fence is awkward to slide out. You have to slide the saw out of the way to release the miter bevel. Just about ZERO dust collection.
The plus side it is very accurate just not user friendly. 
The DW716 is a much better saw in my opinion.

Cole


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Cole82 said:


> I have the DW717 and do not like it what so ever. It is not user friendly at all. The blade gaurd has to be thumbed to see what you are cutting.


The last month, I've been using a dw slider that doesn't have the slop I found in the new DW slider on sale at HD. I don't know what models each one are as sometimes I'm a hired gun, so I don't pay attention to other people's stuff I'm using. The slider I've been using has two vertical bars where the HD sloppy one has those slides horizontal. 

I like my 716 because I can thumb up the guard and I can't do that on whatever one I'm using now. And the makita's w/the vertical grip suck too.  Come to think of it, any chop box with a separate safety sucks......


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## mbryan (Dec 6, 2010)

CO762 said:


> The last month, I've been using a dw slider that doesn't have the slop I found in the new DW slider on sale at HD. I don't know what models each one are as sometimes I'm a hired gun, so I don't pay attention to other people's stuff I'm using. The slider I've been using has two vertical bars where the HD sloppy one has those slides horizontal.
> 
> I like my 716 because I can thumb up the guard and I can't do that on whatever one I'm using now. And the makita's w/the vertical grip suck too.  Come to think of it, any chop box with a separate safety sucks......


The dewalt with the 2 bars stacked vertically was an awesome saw. They replaced it with the newer style that has the 2 horizontal bars. The change wasn't good.


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

Was probably a 708. Those were good. The new ones are great saws, you just have to know what you're looking for, how to adjust things, and how to cut material for optimum dust collection. As far as the 717 goes I've had a great experience, as with the 780 as well. The 718, was horrible. The 712 (8 1/2 slider) was a good saw as well.


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## krist (Dec 2, 2011)

Am I the only one who removes the blade guard on these saws as soon as it comes out of the box?


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## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

I'm pulling the trigger on a slider any day, as my dewalt is about shot. HD has the 780 for $550. Is the 780 better than the 718 or 708? I'm not sure of the differences.


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

I never had a 708, but remember using one my boss had, but I've had/have the 718, 712, 780 & 717. Light years ahead of the 718, I would say the 717 and 780 are close to the same. 780 has better dust collection and capacity, but its still a 12" with blade deflection. Note: I use for interior trim, so I don't know how they perform getting big lumber slammed into them.


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## Rustbucket (May 22, 2009)

krist said:


> Am I the only one who removes the blade guard on these saws as soon as it comes out of the box?


Hope so! Personally I don't feel like getting my a$$ sewed off because some idiot decided to use my saw and got hurt. 

One concern I do have with doing this is that if you get kickback on a sliding saw, it can potentially come back toward you. Haven't seen it happen, but would think it could be a possibility.


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## krist (Dec 2, 2011)

One of the main reasons I took it off the Makita was because it would pull the stock back into the blade on a miter cut. I use these saws everyday all day and have never touched one when I didn't think about where my hands are and what could happen in any given situation. As for a law suit, can't get blood from a stone.:thumbsup:


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

krist said:


> Am I the only one who removes the blade guard on these saws as soon as it comes out of the box?


I did...except for my Makita...its blade guard doesn't bother me.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

Rustbucket said:


> Hope so! Personally I don't feel like getting my a$$ sewed off because some idiot decided to use my saw and got hurt.
> 
> One concern I do have with doing this is that if you get kickback on a sliding saw, it can potentially come back toward you. Haven't seen it happen, but would think it could be a possibility.



My makita did that the other day, twice...bowed stock...shouldn't have cut it, but I did...it came back, nothing I couldn't control but it makes you thing.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Like what mbryan alluded to, change isn't always for the better. Dewalt used to be good, contractor grade, but their QC has been more miss than hit. I'd bet they loosened up their tolerances on their slides and compensated for that slop by making the slides horizontal, one on each side of the blade to capture the slop.
Guess that didn't work dewalt. Guess that's why home depot has pallets of your saws on sale in the the middle of the aisles for 300 some bucks. As long as I gotta walk around that, I might as well buy one......



StrongTower said:


> optimum dust collection.


What? :sailor: I have no idea what you are talking about..... :laughing:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

ArtisanRemod said:


> I'm pulling the trigger on a slider any day


why do you need a slider?


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

krist said:


> Am I the only one who removes the blade guard on these saws as soon as it comes out of the box?


I don't because my wife uses mine and if I bring mine to a commercial site, I'd get fined.


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

All I know is that I empty a lot of bags out of my CT22 per week that is attached to my miter saw. Kinda funny how that works. Ifyou have a 717 with a vac attached, cutting base standing up, the dust collection works great. If you have a 780, with a vac attached, parts laying flat the dust collection works very well. This is of course using good judgement on the speed of cut. If you like to 'chop' with your chop saw, a Kapex won't collect dust. I cut many many feet of mdf & hardwood, there is a method to cutting to achieve the best dust collection. I used to have to wear a dust mask when cutting mdf, now I never do.


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

I've also noticed if you dial in the tension screw on the rails to allow a smooth slide, it takes a lot of that side to side out of it. 

All dewalt needs to do is beef up the diameter of the rails. Has nothing to do with vertical or horizontal IMO.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Large crown and vinyl.


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## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

CO762 said:


> why do you need a slider?


My hand saw is in the shop


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## Foxit (Mar 2, 2013)

I still use my 15 year old makita LS1011 10 inch slider. Nice small and compact but still can cut 12" wide stock. I bring out my 12" dewalt for large crown jobs. I can still get parts on Ereplacmentparts.com


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## Tim J (May 19, 2013)

I am very happy with my Ridgid 12" compound Miter Saw. It is the slightly older model with a stand. I got it refurbished off the Homer website a number of years ago for cheap. I use it almost daily depending on the job I am working. It will cleanly cut all the trim work I throw at it while also blowing through any and all framing...

The saw has zero slop, cuts true, has enough power to cut anything I throw at it and it is simple to adjust and dial in for atypical angle cuts. The dust collection isn't the best but I understand that has changed on the newer models. The laser isn't accurate but I never saw one that was. Yes, it may weigh too much but with the stand, who cares. 

I have used the Dewalt and I was less than impressed. It felt cheap and there definitely was slop. Can't speak to the Makita that alot of you are using, however I made the mistake of buying a smaller 10" Hitachi chop box to keep in one of my new work vans. The saw is really a piece of junk. 

I realize that the blade you use on your saw can make a world of difference and I always put a decent blade on my saws, usually either a Freud or Woodworker II.

Stock Google pics, not my actual saw...


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I've had that saw (above) and she has never let me down.......:thumbsup:

Going on 9 years and she cuts very accurate.....love the indents and the large field table and I have it on the exact same stand you pictured....the hole set up is great, easy to set up, move and store.......


I think they stopped making the 12" model...:blink: being replaced with the 10" I think,,,,,.

My new Bosch 
12" glide is nice,...missing a laser, and indents @ 22.5 bevel. and one heavy saw which is why it's mounted in the shop.....


:thumbup: for the old Ridgid 12" SCMS....


B,


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

PrestigeR&D said:


> I've had that saw (above) and she has never let me down.......:thumbsup:
> 
> Going on 9 years and she cuts very accurate.....love the indents and the large field table and I have it on the exact same stand you pictured....the hole set up is great, easy to set up, move and store.......
> 
> ...


I haven't used every saw out there...are there actually some that have indents for the bevel?


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

The dewalt 10" has them my makita 1013 went up in smoke and I am looking at the dewalt 10" sliding miter. No one in my area has the millwakee 12" in a store I have not had good luck ordering tools


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## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

I've had my dewalt dw717 for 7 years now, use it almost daily and it still stays true. Motor is starting to develop some whine but it's been through probably a hundred thousand feet of trim


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

wnc viking said:


> If I can flex the rails to me that is a weak spot with the saw.


Here's my saw with no pressure on the head then 48lbs on the head. See the mark at 7.5" You will never be putting anywhere near this kind of pressure onto the rails and they have zero deflection or flex with head fully extended.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

As a comparison here's the Bosch axial glide which Bosch has boasted about having the least deflection on any job site saw. 

The gap is exactly 1/4" but after the head is loaded with a 50lb bag of thinset it deflects so much it bottoms out on my engineer square.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

The kampex is a good saw everyone talks about saws having flex in the rails. I could move the rails on all the saws. The kampex moved the most. Side to side movement. I have been looking at a lot of saws to replace my makita.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

Putting weight one the head of the saw is not what I am talking about it is side to side movement


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

wnc viking said:


> The kampex is a good saw everyone talks about saws having flex in the rails. I could move the rails on all the saws. The kampex moved the most. Side to side movement. I have been looking at a lot of saws to replace my makita.


The kapex rails do not move at all. Not even a 1/64 of an inch up and down or left to right. You will not find a jobsite saw with stiffer rails. Reason being is because the rails are fixed for one. 

I think you may have tested a Hitachi and thought it was a kapex. they are both green.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

No it was a kampex


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I like a lot of things about the kampex . But the handle is to small for my hand. And looking at other festool tools they do not feel comfortable in my hands


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## alboston (Feb 22, 2007)

I haven't seen the Kampex discussed yet in one of the hundred "Which miter saw should I buy" threads.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

wnc viking said:


> The kampex is a good saw everyone talks about saws having flex in the rails. I could move the rails on all the saws. The kampex moved the most. Side to side movement. I have been looking at a lot of saws to replace my makita.


The rails aren't flexing at all. Any movement you are experiencing is coming from the frame to base connection. I have noticed it as well, but have never owned a saw that cuts better than this one. One of the best tool purchases I have ever made.


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## tyb525 (Feb 26, 2013)

The problem is y'all are talking about 2 different saws...he is talking about the "Kampex" apparently :jester:


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

tyb525 said:


> The problem is y'all are talking about 2 different saws...he is talking about the "Kampex" apparently :jester:


I was thinking the same thing...sounds like the Kampex is a cheap imitation of the real thing.


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## Jswills76 (Nov 12, 2012)

If his hands are to big for the saw I think I believe him that it moves. Stack a couple bags of sakrete on there for a proper comparison.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

EricBrancard said:


> The rails aren't flexing at all. Any movement you are experiencing is coming from the frame to base connection. I have noticed it as well, but have never owned a saw that cuts better than this one. One of the best tool purchases I have ever made.


I went out and slapped my 4 year old kampex around and the only thing that moved was the rubber feet twisted some and the base to table flexed some.


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

Brian Peters said:


> I was thinking the same thing...sounds like the Kampex is a cheap imitation of the real thing.


 harbor freight version.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> harbor freight version.


It must have been as not one other person has ever found this issue.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I have never owned a saw with detents on the bevel part. Bevel detents would probably annoy me lots.
> 
> I have had some that had extra marks for some of those special degrees (almost as bad as the tape measures with fractions) but none with actual stops.


Yes you have. Your 5412 had them.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> As a comparison here's the Bosch axial glide which Bosch has boasted about having the least deflection on any job site saw.
> 
> The gap is exactly 1/4" but after the head is loaded with a 50lb bag of thinset it deflects so much it bottoms out on my engineer square.


Agreed. It still seems to cut straight, but I can deflect the head of mine as well. Bosch tools took a dump. I will only buy their older stuff now...or makita. Been starting to eye festool as well.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

TBFGhost said:


> Agreed. It still seems to cut straight, but I can deflect the head of mine as well. Bosch tools took a dump. I will only buy their older stuff now...or makita. Been starting to eye festool as well.


Yeah it def cuts fine. As long as the saw makes an almost perfect or perfect cut i dont care if the head moves 3" left to right. I got caught up in the axial glide hype like a rabid Apple fanboy to a Iphone release. Its got so many bad points and only one good point. Lowes and wood craft stopped selling them as they didnt sell at all. I think that was more to do with cost than bad points though.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

TBFGhost said:


> Yes you have. Your 5412 had them.


It did? Shows you how often I bevel something.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I did not say the kampex is a bad saw I just said I can flex the rails but I can do the same to all the other sliding miter saws I have looked at. I would buy one if the handle hole was not so small.


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

BCConstruction said:


> well yes of course if we all used the same drill, same impact, same fastener and same material yes it would be.
> 
> + where did I say only my tests are valid?


You say that by saying "I haven't done my tests yet" when others already have. You don't believe anyone else until YOU do your own, yet you want everyone else to believe your tests in this thread... It's just funny.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

RobertCDF said:


> You say that by saying "I haven't done my tests yet" when others already have. You don't believe anyone else until YOU do your own, yet you want everyone else to believe your tests in this thread... It's just funny.


Where did I say that? Keep making stuff up!


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

When it comes down to it what does it really matter? I've got some of both, and I use both. I'd say 90% of screws I drive I use the impact, but if I'm screwing down a metal roof the drill with it's clutch settings works better, for me. I know guys that prefer an impact in that application, that's OK. Use whatever works best for YOU..


Edit...sorry I got this in the wrong thread...I'm following both


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

RobertCDF said:


> Have you realized your wrong in the drill impact thread yet?





BCConstruction said:


> I will tell you once I do my tests. ...


...


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

BCConstruction said:


> I will tell you once I do my tests. I Fried my drill yesterday trying to put a 6" ledger lock into that hard maple. The impact put it all the way in and so did the drill but the magic smoke come out my drill and now it feels like my windings have fried. Needed a new drill anyway. the ease the impact put it in compared to the drill though was crazy. The 3ft long piece of material just sat there with the impact and the drill was spinning the bloody thing around.


Sorry, I didn't quote verbatim so here it is. 

I think most would agree that "I'll tell you once I do my tests" is pretty much the same as what I said, but you can do you own test/survey on that opinion if you want.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

RobertCDF said:


> Sorry, I didn't quote verbatim so here it is.
> 
> I think most would agree that "I'll tell you once I do my tests" is pretty much the same as what I said, but you can do you own test/survey on that opinion if you want.


I don't doubt the results will be different. If we used exactly the same test with exactly the same tools and materials and mines different to someone else's results then there's a problem there. Just like the guy with the kapex. His results completely different to mine with the same exact setup.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

These tools (small machines) we keep having discussions about ....

Now this is just my observation about this so don't everyone get their panties all up in a knot....


They are all marketed , and I mean ALL OF THEM.....to be replaced at some point in the near future....I am lucky I can get a year or 2 out of my battery operated Tonka toys...drill, drivers....technology....the cost of batteries....lots and lots of plastic.....they are great but I understand and can accept the fact that they will be tossed...... a short life span,,,

My electric break is gone on my 12" SCMS (Ridged) after almost 9 years.....its on its way out......but she still cuts great!

I doubt you would find the tools we use today being around for over 100 years. I don't have a piece of "WW machinery" in my shop younger than 1942...with the exception of my Planner...... and they all run and operate like the day they came off the factory floor.......after some blood sweat and a lot of cursing...:laughing: 

I know its a total different category but none the less its an example of how things have changed.......There were CMS's out there way back when....Specifically - point in case -A UNIPOINT...now with that saw there is no movement period! - it was just an absolute monster probably because it was made from cast iron and weighs close to 1000lbs....

todays technology has shrunk a monster like that down to a small table to put it on....so , there is no "beef" massive castings....etc..etc....there is play.....its......unavoidable IMO.


Everyone has their own likes and dislikes when it comes to the tools we use.....and I respect that. What is humorous to me is when some have the view there is only one brand....and its the only thing worth having....

I've tried the Kapex....me personally, I wasn't impressed.....that's just me....I love that Dominoe however...but that's it for me...

nothing personal......

You guys that sip the green cool-Aid....hey, knock your socks off,,...and I am glad you are happy with whatever it is your using, personally I don't care what it is.....I would be watching what it is you produce and how well it comes out......not what your using...., but that's just me..

That was kind of my point earlier in this thread,......

its what a "CRAFTSMAN" can do,...not so much the tools...


These type of threads can help some guys , kind of guide them what to try out....but the ultimate decision resides with the user.....and it should be respected what ever he or she decides to purchase,...even if we think differently....... I think the buyer needs to kick the tires.






B, JMPOV.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

Amen!


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

PrestigeR&D said:


> These tools (small machines) we keep having discussions about ....
> 
> Now this is just my observation about this so don't everyone get their panties all up in a knot....
> 
> ...


I totally disagree. a craftsman can do vastly more vastly quicker with the latest and greatest tools. 

Or he could just use his craftsmanship skills and use flint strapped to wood and build everything. 

I already know how you feel about the kapex. What gets me is the axial glide ain't 1/5th the saw the kapex is yet you own that! We been through this hundred times before though. You like the saw and I hate it. Its like Obama approval rating. You always gonna have a few who ain't got a clue.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

It all amounts to what you "personally " like......that's it...:blink:


I guess if the work comes out exceptionally ,...what ever make or model it is ,...-it's working......, it might not be the same for someone else....


You think the saw you have is extremely important, and I agree with you - to a point........what you find to be an incredible machine ,others may not...for whatever reason......:blink:....

You don't have "the best saw" in your possession BCC.......
You have the saw that "you " really love, and I understand that,:thumbsup:..

I love , admire and pursue OWWM.....

but it's not for everyone....






JMPOV,
B,


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

Some people think that what ever they own is the best of any other brand and have to let every one know it and nothing they own could possible have a fault


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

wnc viking said:


> Some people think that what ever they own is the best of any other brand and have to let every one know it and nothing they own could possible have a fault


Because we buy in our opinion the best tools. Why would you buy something that isn't the best?


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I guess to be fair and open minded about...


Might help the OP if we listed the attributes of whatever saw it is that we all have and talk about the things we like about them, and the areas we don't like.......:laughing:



Maybe that would be the thing to do,...:blink:



B,


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

jlsconstruction said:


> Because we buy in our opinion the best tools. Why would you buy something that isn't the best?


I've bought a few tools that weren't close to the best. Tools I use every day, I try and buy what I feel is best. Tools that get occasional use, I may buy something I feel is ok. Sometimes it just a matter of funds. There are things I would love to purchase that I just can't afford or that just don't make financial sense at this point in time. So I either make due with what I have or purchase what I can afford to get the job done until I can move up to something better.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

That is why there are different brands so people can choose what is best for them


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

wnc viking said:


> Some people think that what ever they own is the best of any other brand and have to let every one know it and nothing they own could possible have a fault


Not at all. I have owned loads of crap tools. The last one I have to get rid of is this POS Bosch axial glide. Its the worst saw I gave ever owned or used. 

I tell the truth about a tool when I own it. I have no reason to make it sound better than it is. If its crap I will say.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

EricBrancard said:


> I've bought a few tools that weren't close to the best. Tools I use every day, I try and buy what I feel is best. Tools that get occasional use, I may buy something I feel is ok. Sometimes it just a matter of funds. There are things I would love to purchase that I just can't afford or that just don't make financial sense at this point in time. So I either make due with what I have or purchase what I can afford to get the job done until I can move up to something better.



But you know they aren't the best, that's where I'm going with this. You're not going to buy something knowing its a lesser quality tool and come on here and say it's the best tool ever.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

Did you not look at the Bosch be for you bought it. It looked to goofy to me when I looked at it in the store.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I have owned some bad tools and a few where Bosch cordless kit I had was junk


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Ok,

I'll start....

Bosch glider-12" $780.00 
Cuts accurate, 
Nice easy movement
Comfortable to me


Things I don't like....
NO. LAsER ,!!!! Cheap bastards....,! ,
The weight......
Making a left compound cut is a pain in the ass!- poor design......

Over all,....I like it....I'm happy,...but I won't buy another one......

The Ridgid 12" SCMS $529.00 on sale (+ SLUV stand - $149.99 on sale)

Love the large field base
Full bevel indents
Laser (spinner)
Accurate

Things I don't like:
To heavy to lug around without a stand
Poor dust collection
The zero clearance is crap, I replaced that.....flexed WaY to much....

Other than that....I really enjoy that saw .....:clap:

What say you?............:blink:



B,


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