# Washing Machine/Floor Vibration Problem



## NHCharger (Oct 23, 2005)

I built an mother-in-law addition this summer. The home owner wanted a clear span in the basement so I went with a I- Joist system. I spanned 25' 6" with a 14" I- joist that was rated to span 29' 1" . Could have gone with a lesser series but I don't like building to the minimum. They ended up rearranging the interior walls once I got the exterior walls up and the W/D combo ended up in the middle of the floor and approx. 7' in from the end of the other exterior wall. 

They told me that when the washing machine is in the spin cycle the whole floor vibrates. I went over and noticed they have a front load washer. I believe those type cause floors to vibrate because if the load is slightly out of balance it will cause the machine to hop, unlike a top load that dispurses it's load sideway instead. Anyway, I installed a double 2x6 header under the floor area of the W/D and posted it down to the concrete floor in the basement.

I get a call today that the vibration is still bad. They had the repair guy from Sear's check the washing machine. He said there was nothing wrong with the machine and the problem was shoddy construction by the contractor    . 
I have built many Colonials with the W/D set up on the second floor and never had a problem, all were built using 2x10 floor joists. Is the I-Joist system more susceptible to problems like this? I told her (mo-in-law) I was coming back on Saturday and building a support wall the length of the basement, which is what the homeowner (son-in-law) doesn't want.
Any input would be welcomed, meanwhile I need a drink.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

Sheesh!!

Obviously the 'practiced response' from the Sears guy.

All I can think of (other than checking the balance) is padding under the machine and/or maybe a strongback under the joists.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

What O.C. did you go with?


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## NHCharger (Oct 23, 2005)

JustaFramer said:


> What O.C. did you go with?


16" O.C., 3/4" T&G Advantech(glued and nailed with 8D ringers), 5/16" Birch Techply underlayment for the vinyl floor.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Mighty Anvil is against this LOL 

However I wonder if a 8" o.c. in the laundry area could stop this problem.


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## MinConst (Oct 16, 2004)

Not to say this wasn't checked by the original installer or the Sears guy but I had the same problem on a second floor laundry room. Seem when the machine was delivered and set up they had forgotten to take the shipping crap off the bottom of the machine. Fully thing was that the machine worked fine except it shook when spinning. Might be worth a look anyway.


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## zoso (Oct 7, 2005)

I have a front load washer in my wooden house and it's (the house) been standing 102 years and the entire house shakes a bit. If you reinforce the area around the washer, the shake will transfer through that any way. Maybe hang the washer from cables. Get the numbers on the centripital force used by the washing machine and tell the client, they are dealing with a good amount of it.


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## Kevin Lizak (Jan 17, 2006)

It is not anything that you did, It is with the machines, they do not tell you that when you buy them. I have a friend that sells appliances and he has informed me that the manufactors know about this but the salesmen are told not to inform the buyer. The centrifigal force is different with the rotation being opposite. The vibration is even worse when the additional bases are added. They are not designed for first floor laundry rooms (wood floors)


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## A+Carpenter (Apr 19, 2005)

What I would do man. Save your time and the framing of another wall. Take the floor up and pour you a strongback. what Im saying is lay you a slab in the room thinset . 1 inch max and recap it. Then have the homeowner sign off on it.MO-IN-LAW or not.


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## Peladu (Jan 8, 2006)

Getting the floor to cease vibrating will be and is impossible.
The amount of deflection can be decreased, but not totally eliminated.
If your customers wish to have no vibration at all, then bring them a Sears catalog and point to a top load unit.
You should be the final call on what is reasonable or unreasonable amount of deflection.
Bring a load of your laundry and have the Mrs.’s wash it for you and observe the deflection. (that would be funny)
Remember, some clients expect what is not only impractical but also impossible.
The more detailed you explanation, the more comfortable most clients feel.
Good luck, but Sears will point the finger elsewhere whenever given the chance.


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## copusbuilder (Nov 8, 2005)

I love the people that will take a Sears appliance mans word over a builder???
Kinda like the customer that says the Home Depot guy said this....I look at them and say "why do you think he's making $8.00 and hour":furious: 
Drive you nuts!!


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## Peladu (Jan 8, 2006)

“…..but my sisters, husbands, fathers boss’s, nephew’s are chefs and they say that this job can be done for under twenty dollars.”


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

NHCharger said:


> I built an mother-in-law addition this summer. The home owner wanted a clear span in the basement so I went with a I- Joist system. I spanned 25' 6" with a 14" I- joist that was rated to span 29' 1" .



What brand I- Joist? What is the deflection rating to make that 29' 1"? What size flange on your I-Joist?


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## NHCharger (Oct 23, 2005)

All fixed. I went over with two floor jacks. The homeowner (a former carpenter) and I jacked up the 2x6 header that's under the W&D almost a 1/2". Ran the Washing machine, still vibrates, but not quite as bad. Home owner then mentions that they just bought a Sears front load washing machine for themselves which is in the basement and when it spins he can feel the concrete floor vibrating. It turns out both these models are the energy saver ones that spin at a very high rate of speed so the clothes come out almost dry. They returned the mother-in-laws machine for a regular front loader with out the super-duper high speed spin cycle and everything is fine.


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