# HUGE humps in old hardwood.



## jiggyjack (Mar 29, 2007)

Hi guys,

First off I am a competent Carpenter and Remodeler but by no means would I consider myself a Hardwood floor installer.

My Brother owns a Victorian turn of the century home (1900). In each of his two living rooms the floor has bubbled up in the middle of the rooms. This has been a reoccurring problem for him for the last 10 or so years. This year it has gotten to the point where he wants something done about it.

I am sure this is caused by humidity as it only becomes a problem in mid-summer. He really wants me to do the work as I have done other work on his home and it has turned out gorgeous (Back porch rebuild upper and lower Kitchen Bath yadda yadda) 

Now he would like me to tackle this. My best though process brought me to removing the floor and shaving like a 32 off of about ten or so boards in the middle, but I'm not sure how to get the stuff up without damaging it. Or if that is even the best way to do it.

Like I say I'm not a floor guy so any help on how to fix this would be great.

THANKS!! in advance

OH and to give you a idea off how bad they are the one hump rises about 3 inches and the other one about 1 and1/2 inches. I have pics but it's kinda hard to see the humps.


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## HallisseyDesign (Jul 6, 2007)

Can you get to the floor from under it? IE basement to first floor? If you can take drywall screws that will not go all the way through the piece of wood on main floor. Start screwing them back to the sub-floor. So figure 3/4 inch flooring. Old house possibly 1/2" sub-floor. 1 inch drywall screws will hold it. IF you want to put bigger screws in put a block of wood up then drill through it all. That is the only way I have found to fix it. If that doesn't bring it floor back down, you need start pulling up floor and there s no easy way to do that. Hope number 1 fixes it.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

HallisseyDesign said:


> Can you get to the floor from under it? IE basement to first floor? If you can take drywall screws that will not go all the way through the piece of wood on main floor. Start screwing them back to the sub-floor. So figure 3/4 inch flooring. Old house possibly 1/2" sub-floor. 1 inch drywall screws will hold it. IF you want to put bigger screws in put a block of wood up then drill through it all. That is the only way I have found to fix it. If that doesn't bring it floor back down, you need start pulling up floor and there s no easy way to do that. Hope number 1 fixes it.



1/2" subfloor huh. :laughing: You obviously have never worked on a Vickie. The floor is probably 3/4"-1" slates run at a 45 degrees.


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## HallisseyDesign (Jul 6, 2007)

JustaFramer said:


> 1/2" subfloor huh. :laughing: You obviously have never worked on a Vickie. The floor is probably 3/4"-1" slates run at a 45 degrees.


I did a kitchen remodel in IL and it was 1/2" in a vickie. The floor was a little soft- I had to go into the basement and re-brace the entire kitchen and walk way so you did feel like you were on a spong pad! IT sucked. I have worked on a house that had marine plywood 1 1/4" think that was some of the most over kill I have seen.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

jiggyjack said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> First off I am a competent Carpenter and Remodeler but by no means would I consider myself a Hardwood floor installer.
> 
> ...



I have demo'd some hardwood before. It is always easiest to take the last plank laid up than the first plank laid. Sounds to me like the floor want to swell up with no where to go. 
If it were me I would take up the base trim and cut the perimeter of the floor back with a flush cut saw some.


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

drywall screws into a hardwood like oak.... ... that's a first for me. drywall screws are made for drywall.(they will snap if you put them into oak.... if not at first... eventually with traffic) wood screws are made for wood..
There is no easy way to get up the wood without damaging it ...you may get a few boards up without damage ... but you will damage some. remove the boards that are buckled.... then continue with the surgery... your a carpenter.... you can figure out the rest. Good Luck


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## Demal (Jul 24, 2007)

Can you show us those pictures? Or take better ones? I don't think your going to be able to pull out the boards and save them. 
You may need to replace them and re sand after you found the cause. I think you are right about the moisture. How big is the room? does the wood touch the wall under the trim? What is the humidity like at each season? If the humidity changes greatly, maybe the answer is to have a humidity control system installed on the furnace? I will be watching this thread, I want to know what the deal is.


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