# John Deere 345 riding mower battery & power issues



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

After having the battery replaced, the most recent, the second within a month - the latest depleted unit is being charged as this is being posted. _Something on the 345 is obviously drawing it down_.

Also, the battery indicator on the panel has been lit while riding.

Searching, I've seen where a voltage regulator has been successful.
So I picked one up. But to replace it, they've manged to put it in a very obscure spot, hidden behind the battery box so either the front panel will have to be pulled or possibly, if I pull the mower deck, I can deal with the connectors from below.

Anyway, the* symptoms *are that the battery is mainly depleted after mowing the day before, where it simply sits overnight. 
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*Q:* can a faulty voltage regulator bring down the battery? What about when the ignition is off - can it cause a power leak? I do know that it can kill the battery, sending 'too much of a charge' while in operation.

*Q:* if there is a voltage leak, how and where to detect it. Realizing I'll have to pick up a voltmeter with ohms, is anyone familiar with this process? 

- What I have to go on is that the ignition switch be metered following a 'turn of' having the leads disconnected.

- That the solenoid should be tested.

note: the battery cables have been checked along with their connections at the solenoid & ground connection at the engine although the engine mounts have not, they seem fine but will view these. Also, occasionally when the mower sits stationary with the engine running it starts to slowly die off until it is manually choked. Since the mower relies on a charged battery even while running, not just starting, maybe this could be voltage regulator-related as well? 

Hopefully the battery isn't cooked. Before the charge, it tested at 11.9v & 160 cca (525 cca stock).

_Any help worshipped._


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

Very simple to check for a battery drain. Unhook the negative battery post and with a multimeter connect the probes between the battery post and the cable end. Any reading above zero volts indicates a discharge. And yes, a faulty diode in the charging system will cause a drain. 

If you're not into ripping it all apart just leave the battery unhooked after use, or install a disconnect.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

rustyjames said:


> Very simple to check for a battery drain. Unhook the negative battery post and with a multimeter connect the probes between the battery post and the cable end. Any reading above zero volts indicates a discharge. And yes, a faulty diode in the charging system will cause a drain.
> 
> If you're not into ripping it all apart just leave the battery unhooked after use, or install a disconnect.


THX rj - great advice about finding the discharge w/o waiting day to day.

Did install the voltage regulator today ($80) and the battery light has stayed off as it should.

Suspect this will take care of the problem.

If the battery still drains, then I'll get the battery tester _(guess I could disconnect battery and have metered at an auto parts store in couple days, to see if the amps hold) _ 

Then get a multimeter to further pinpoint where the site is, if I can do this. 

Did see a disconnect at the store today, which seems an alternative but since I use the tractor daily, don't know if I want to lift that expensive plastic hood after every go. Especially when it gets cold, more brittle. Have already replaced it once. Those JD parts aren't cheap.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

My 318 has been acting the same as of late. Sounds like I need a voltage regulator.
Joe


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Now even the engine seems to run better, smoother through a range of acceleration.

Sitting at idle, as far as I can tell, is much improved. Before it would start to die off at times til choked. Have tried to get it to fail but it won't.

Maybe now I won't have to blow out the tank fuel line as was planned...


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Railman said:


> My 318 has been acting the same as of late. Sounds like I need a voltage regulator.
> Joe


On my 345, with it bolted to the back of the battery box (nearest the front panel of the mower) luckily I was able to 1st remove the bolts. Then, pull the regulator out from under a minor open section of the bottom battery box to expose it.* 

Noting* the position on the cooling fins before detaching (the 345 fins surprisingly face the mount - a small separation - almost the reverse of what you'd think ). 

I then reconnected the new one, pulling it back up under the same way before re-securing with bolts. 

_Had I not been able to do this way_ - I've seen vids/descriptions of others who have gone on to partly remove the entire front dash panel or reached up through at ground level (unable to "two hand" the connectors back together, restricted by space, and instead forcing the connectors back together with a clam/straps)

Maybe this will save some time/aggravation, but again, I'm not sure about the 318.

JD has a tendency to pack things tight, with little practical space to work on things, I can attest.


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