# Counterflashing Chimney's



## Travis (Dec 20, 2006)

What does everyone use for counterflashing chimneys and tucking into mortar joints? Silicone or mortar?


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## tinner666 (Nov 3, 2004)

Geocel, NP1, BJ, and/or mortar. Depends on the situation; ie- what the customer wants holds weight.


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## Snow Man (Aug 18, 2008)

Mortar , more tar or geocel


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## OldNBroken (Feb 8, 2008)

we're supposed to seal those things???

:whistling:whistling:whistling:whistling:whistling


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## Grumpy (Oct 8, 2003)

Ice shield first, second baby tins (step flashing), third custom bent and raggled counter flashing stepped with the ground out mortar joint and sealed with polyurethane (not silicon). Proper flashing is a dyeing art. Every time I see straight flashing I laugh at the installer. 

I hate Geocel, and would never ever ever use tar on a new install... ever!


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## mattp (Apr 5, 2006)

Gruppy I always step my counter flashing also. Just because its easier to cut into the morter than brick. Why is a straight counterflash wrong?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I have done it both ways, stepped and straight. The straight ones kinda had to be done that way, in my opinion. I always hem the counter flasing back onto its self so it is kinda like a spring. A little bit of polyurethane, push it into place, walla!!


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## apkole (Mar 18, 2006)

Pretty much same as Grumpy. Use M-1, NP1, Duralink for sealer.

BTW, for those of you who cut in the masonry joints, how deep are you cutting in/how wide is the inserted flange on the counter flashing? (Gotta love those 18V Dewalt angle grinders.)

I know what's been working for me, just curious . . . .

Alternate chimney flashing as taught to me by grandfather and father would be a bucket of plastic roof cement.
HEY NOW . . . I said alternate . . . . didn't say it was legitimate!!


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## dougger222 (Jan 29, 2004)

I have my Dad do most chimneys. Ice and water 3ft around with 5 inches up on the brick. Step flashing with base and top flashing details. Factory painted riglet all the way around with a couple mason nails per side. He always rates them when he's done. Most are 9's some are 9.5's and every once in a while he'll yell, "Hey Doug you better come check this one out gotta 10 here". 36 years roofing and he's cut miles and miles of riglet.

He says he learned to do chimneys and torch down back in the 70's while in the Union.

Stepped counter flashing looks to much like stairs on the side of the chimney for me. All the home owners like the look of the riglet compared to the stepped counter flashing.

95% of my jobs are insurance paid and the detail they call for is new step flashing and riglet, paid in three sizes, small, average, and large.


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## Travis (Dec 20, 2006)

What's a riglet? Never heard of before in my 14 years of roofing.Might be a different term than I am used to.


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## tinner666 (Nov 3, 2004)

How do you counter-flash with Ice and Storm? :blink:

Never saw much reason to install it around the base either. Good idea if you're not sure of your flashing abilities though.


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

tinner666 said:


> How do you counter-flash with Ice and Storm? :blink:
> 
> Never saw much reason to install it around the base either. Good idea if you're not sure of your flashing abilities though.




Here is why I do, same reason I use it on eves instead of double felt. This job was for an attorney, belt-n-suspenders all the way.


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

hmmm, I shouldn't post so early in the morning, I do *not* couter-flash with ice and water but do run it vertically along side the chimney and roll it up the edge 3", this bridges the gap left between the framing and chimney. The picture in my last post shows water marks left by previous ices damming, water was leaking in around the nails and staples in addition to finding it's way in nest to the brick.

I counter flash with color matched aluminum and seal with polyurethane. Silicone is for nonporous surfaces.


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## J-Peffer (Mar 3, 2007)

Easiest way I've found to cut the riglet in the chimney is to put a 2x4 on it's side, let your circular saw ride along that 2x with a blade set 1 1/8" deep. Bend a lip on the 1" part of your flashing inserted in the riglet, bend it "UP" so if water does get it, it is shed DOWN the lip created by that bend. The bed keeps the aluminum from pulling out as well.


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## JonM (Nov 1, 2007)

Lead...:thumbsup:








​


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## tinner666 (Nov 3, 2004)

davitk said:


> Here is why I do, same reason I use it on eves instead of double felt. This job was for an attorney, belt-n-suspenders all the way.


Those water tracks on the line line up with the tracks on the step flashing. I'd say the steps were installed wrong. Wish I had seen it as it came off.

Bridging that gap has never been a prioroty for me. Warm air leaking out there has always kept snow and ice clear of the chimney sides.


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## tinner666 (Nov 3, 2004)

JonM said:


> Lead...:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Lead is good! I see you're all ready for the back pan.


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## dougger222 (Jan 29, 2004)

tinner666 said:


> How do you counter-flash with Ice and Storm? :blink:
> 
> Never saw much reason to install it around the base either. Good idea if you're not sure of your flashing abilities though.


Umm, code states ice and water shield required around chimneys and skylights. As a matter fact I ice and water around all roof penetrations as required by Certainteed to offer the four star Integrity warranty.

Could Roofer Sellect be used in the place of Winterguard for a proper seal? Sure. Would that pass inspection? NOPE.

Keep in mind my family has done it this way on thousands and thousands of roofs. We offer a written 30 year warranty against leaks too. If there is a better way to do it we'd be all over it. We know what works here in Minnesota.

We also run ice and water up on side walls 6 inches. The inspectors always seem to like how we do that.


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## tinner666 (Nov 3, 2004)

"Umm, code states ice and water shield required around chimneys and skylights. As a matter fact I ice and water around all roof penetrations as required by Certainteed to offer the four star Integrity warranty."

Ever wonder why the manufacturers want underlay so badly? Stating in the 90's? They know the material they sell as a roof is nearly worthless. Unlike the quality of the material they used to sell.

We didn't have I and W here in the sixties to my knowledge. No problems either.
The problem now is the material itself and workmanship issues.


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## Grumpy (Oct 8, 2003)

mattp said:


> Gruppy I always step my counter flashing also. Just because its easier to cut into the morter than brick. Why is a straight counterflash wrong?


Why because very few that do it straight take the time to cut the brick. They just caulk the top and call it done. The caulk will wear away within 3-5 years. Sure if they cut it in it is acceptable, but like I said damned near nobody who does straight flashing at side walls will cut it in.


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