# When subject to "physical damage"



## protechplumbing (Oct 10, 2008)

I installed a water heater that failed inspection due to the electrical being done in NM. I did not install said cable but the inspector failed me for it anyway. Said it has to be done in AC not NM. Must be protected from physical damage. << 334.15 (B) ? >>

Here's me question: When does NM need to be protected from physical damage? I cant tell you how many heaters I've seen installed with NM(including my own) and they all passed inspection. Why then does this heater need armored cable? It's installed in a shed attached to the side of a mobile home.


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## plummen (Jan 9, 2010)

depends a lot on your local codes.if they allow romex to be used in the basement i would just sleeve it in a piece of 3/4 conduit with a coupling/bushing on top to protect the wire above bottem of floor joist


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

If you didn't do the install, then you cannot fail your inspection.

The person who installed it should fail theirs.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

It seems that around here, NM cannot be used for the connection to the appliance. Properly sized rubber cord (like an extension cord) could be used either with proper fixed terminations or with plug and receptacle fittings could be used. Otherwise, one could use a protected assembly like emt, armor cable, liquidtite flex, etc.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

I'm sure he did not take this out of the sky, change it and get your inspection :thumbsup:


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## BuildersII (Dec 20, 2009)

Typically AM is used anywhere where there's some measure of human activity that could lead to any kind of impact. Since the hookup for the water heater is located at floor level where someone or something could easily impact it, AM is usually the better choice. Either way, it should be a pretty easy fix if your code allows you to mount a box above it and run a few feet of AM to the heater.


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## protechplumbing (Oct 10, 2008)

I'm going to be calling the inspector back tomorrow about it. They should pass it as that cable was grandfathered in. It was there before I got there and I'm not doing any electrical work changing out a heater. I was just wondering why I see romex on some heaters and armored cable on others. I don't see any rhyme or reason to it.


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## plummen (Jan 9, 2010)

i would say its only grandfathered in on the origional heater it was installed on,changing the heater brings in current codes im thinking


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

protechplumbing said:


> ..... I was just wondering why I see romex on some heaters and armored cable on others. I don't see any rhyme or reason to it.


Some were wired by professionals. Others were wired by those who are, shall we say, less than professional.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

BuildersII said:


> Since the hookup for the water heater is located at floor level where someone or something could easily impact it, AM is usually the better choice.


What hookup might that be?


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## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

I dont want to sound negative here but why not just terminate the NM in a junction box on the wall and run a peice of MC to the heater to satisfy the inspector. It will keep him happy and you can charge the HO accordingly, more work never hurts with this economy.


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## BuildersII (Dec 20, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> What hookup might that be?


Correction: near the top. Forgive me, it's been a long time since I've even seen an electric water heater.:laughing:


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## protechplumbing (Oct 10, 2008)

Because I'm not a licensed electrician (yet) and that would mean I would have to sub-out an electrician to do that and that was not part of the original contract. The HO does not want to pay any extra money on the water heater install.

The whole thing is silly to me. So what next, every heater install I go to that has the whole hot side of the house potable water piping done in 1/2" needs to be repiped when I install the new heater with 3/4"? "I'm sorry maam but we are going to have to charge you an additional $3000 to repipe your house to bring it up to code for the heater install." 




woodchuck2 said:


> I dont want to sound negative here but why not just terminate the NM in a junction box on the wall and run a peice of MC to the heater to satisfy the inspector. It will keep him happy and you can charge the HO accordingly, more work never hurts with this economy.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

protechplumbing said:


> Because I'm not a licensed electrician (yet) and that would mean I would have to sub-out an electrician to do that and that was not part of the original contract. The HO does not want to pay any extra money on the water heater install.
> 
> The whole thing is silly to me. So what next, every heater install I go to that has the whole hot side of the house potable water piping done in 1/2" needs to be repiped when I install the new heater with 3/4"? "I'm sorry maam but we are going to have to charge you an additional $3000 to repipe your house to bring it up to code for the heater install."


So just increase your electric water heater install rate to include the cost of an electrician. Wah-lah!..... no extra charge!


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

protechplumbing said:


> Because I'm not a licensed electrician (yet) and that would mean I would have to sub-out an electrician to do that and that was not part of the original contract. The HO does not want to pay any extra money on the water heater install.
> 
> The whole thing is silly to me. So what next, every heater install I go to that has the whole hot side of the house potable water piping done in 1/2" needs to be repiped when I install the new heater with 3/4"? "I'm sorry maam but we are going to have to charge you an additional $3000 to repipe your house to bring it up to code for the heater install."


Changing out the NM to MC would be considered incidental and part of a water heater replacement, so you would legally be allowed to do it.

As a mechanical contractor I can change out breakers, disconnects and whips as part of an install, as it is incidental and allowed to be done under my license.


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## BuildersII (Dec 20, 2009)

Check the local codes. I know in Lawrence, KS, for instance, you can legally extend plumbing or electrical lines up to 6' without a license. Not sure if you still need a permit.


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