# Started this one today



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So I know I've been doing a lot of complaining about the weather, particularly the winds, that have been non stop now for a week. A little rain mixed in I can deal with but the constant barrage of gusts really get my goat 

So what makes today any different...not much. Rained this morning and was chilly... and you guessed it, friggin' wind. Where is this chit coming from?

Anyhow, got a late start after some morning funk and suddenly the sun came out and was not so chilly...still can't say the winds died down until I was leaving and tomorrow it looks like another rain out.

Started putting lath up so I pulled out the ole Malco snips and let them rip. They worked perfect...no flying sparks or chunks of lath hitting me in the face is always a good thing.

Normally I don't use washers unless I'm using Permalath, which I really don't use much, but since my supplier fronted me a free box to try out, I figured I'd give it a whirl.

I know some of you preach pneumatic nailing is the only way to go but I beg to differ on these types of small chimneys, softer mortar and fragile brick types. I still use my dowling magnets and I'm pretty efficient at placing them right where I want them and at the proper setting. A pneumatic would probably blow this chimney to pieces as I'm easily able to sink a 1" stub with my trusty 16oz. antivibe which sure beats swinging a heavy mallet all day. For the washered fastners, I stepped up to 1 1/4" stubs and it was a perfect fit. Very few nails gave me any problems.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Hey SS. Because of that block thread I was looking in my code book for rebar charts and took a look at the chimney section since I had it out. Can;t believe i've been reading the code wrong all this time. The only code requirement I have for 2'11" is that the short side of the chimney has to be a min of 2'11" so if the chimney is @ the ridge it has to be that high. Otherwise is just the 2'/10' rule and it's the short side that has to be 2'11" not the taller side that exits the roof, that's the only difference from that drawing you posted. 

Carry on

Maybe i'll save a few brick next chimney because of this thread haha


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

By the way...I hate the wind too. Blowing sand around, making noise with tarps or tyvek, twisting stuff up your trying to fold. What a pain


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

dom-mas said:


> Hey SS. Because of that block thread I was looking in my code book for rebar charts and took a look at the chimney section since I had it out. Can;t believe i've been reading the code wrong all this time. The only code requirement I have for 2'11" is that the high short side of the chimney has to be a min of 2'11" so if the chimney is @ the ridge it has to be that high. Otherwise is just the 2'/10' rule and the short side has to be 2'11".
> 
> Maybe i'll save a few brick next chimney because of this thread haha


I was thinking maybe you misinterpreted,...my liner install guides mention NFPA221 code and/or CAN/CSA-A405 as the following...I'll let you read.

Is this your code reference?


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Sorry, look under termination above roof.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

basically.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Well, it rained pretty good today like they said it would up till about 1pm...and since I scheduled a lath inspection for tomorrow, I had to get back to the job and get some more lath up.

Actually turned out rather nice and no wind...can't believe it.

Oh well inspector is scheduled for 1030 am and all I got to do pop some more nails in here and there and finish wrapping the top courses.

As long as he's on time, I should be able to at least get a scratch coat on and continue with some progress.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Left my camera on the job yesterday and it was still hanging on the scaffolding this morning right where I left it...last week, with the winds it would have probably ended up in Florida. Speaking of Florida, the forecast yesterday and today was rather nice and sunny so some work got done.

Inspector showed up at 1030 on the button like he said he would and everything was fine...he was telling me he grew up in house right behind the one I'm working on but has since sold since his parents have passed away. 

Anyhow, I buttoned up the top two courses in the morning and shot a few more nails wherever needed and as soon as the inspector left I started throwing on some base coat. Went back today and applied the brown and texture and I'll be topping with two coats of Thorolastic elastomeric. 

It's starting to look healthy again!


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So the access kinda sucks on this job as I'm working around the scaffolding upright because of that damn porch. I had to hop over a fence, remove a railing, remove a picket so I could get my leg brace in and set a ladder on the right side roof.

It's always nice when I can center the rig and work each side normally...much less climbing in and out of those mason frames, plus your materials are always handy.

I used the Sika milk on this one to try it out...it an add mix as well as a bonder. Once the scratch dried overnight, i shot it with some milk before the browncoat and texture. Ultimately this chimney will be white when I done.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Looking great!


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I spent the day today caulking all my stop beads, cleaned up a bit and then was planning on replacing the flashing on the lower porch roof. As I looked a little closer I could see somebody made previous shoddy repairs to the siding around that area. I checked for step flashing and a proper wrb and found no steps at all. There was felt, but it was old a very brittle. There also a vent in a real bad spot and lot's of potential for leakage.

Even though the flashing against the chimney looked okay, somebody shot a tube of clear silicone in the j-channel and other areas which led me to believe they were chasing a leak. I went under the porch and pulled some soffit and sure enough I could see symptoms of water penetration.

There goes my easy day...off with some siding to install step flashing. Owner is away on a short vacation...this will be an extra work order as I didn't plan on doing this. 

This siding job had to have been done by amateurs, real poor cuts and the fit and finish is horrible...really should be re-done.

I figured I'd give the chimney another day to dry and let the sealant cure out a bit before I put the Thoro on.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Well that looks better

So tomorrow you'll get out the bucket of tar and pour it all over the flashing...or will you wait til monday?


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I can stay clean using any product on the planet until it comes to muck...that chit jumps out of the bucket and sticks all over me :laughing:

I hope the guy who did that deed has the same problem


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

When i was a kid I tarred a foundation with a roller. The guy building the house gave me one of those disposible jumpsuits to wear and when i took it off i still had tar all over my arms and on my jeans


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

I'm curious, if you planned on stucco. Why not rebuild the chimney up to the crown with solid 4" block?


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

NJ Brickie said:


> I'm curious, if you planned on stucco. Why not rebuild the chimney up to the crown with solid 4" block?





Just a WAG on my part,the block would not bond out and would require cutting. If chimney block worked size wise,I would give them a consideration.

We will see what SS thinks.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

NJ Brickie said:


> I'm curious, if you planned on stucco. Why not rebuild the chimney up to the crown with solid 4" block?


I had some 52dd laying around so just used them...it's easier attaching the lath as well with all the joints. The chimney measured a heavy 17"...8 1/4" brick. That's why I ended up with some big head joints, we call'm waffles.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

16 3/4" chimney bock probably would have worked but those suckers weigh like a hernia.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

When Thoro was sold to other companies in the past such as ICI, Harris Specialties, SKW.mbt, Chemrex and now BASF, they kept the same product names...everything begins with Thoro, such as Thoroseal, Thorocoat, Thorolastic, thoro everything, enough to fill up catalogs of different materials.

Now that BASF has the reins, they've changed the names of the same products I've been using now for over 30 years 

I'm not sure this was great idea as it confusing the chit out of us loyal customers.

So instead of my quoting Thorolastic in the future as my choice of an elastomeric product, I will now be referring it as "Masterprotect EL750"...same product and formulation, only a different name. 

New buckets too! :thumbup:


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

I do very little stucco work. Honestly I try to avoid it. The only finish I've ever done is a sand finish. So I'd like to know how you achieve that texture.


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