# Condo With Concrete Subfloor: Please Recommend Best Species/Brand Hardwood Floor



## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Would anyone care to share any installation tips/tricks with regards to gluing engineered over cork/over concrete?

Thanks


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

How many?


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Bostik's Best is a good glue. No glue with water in it.


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## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

If you like distressed looks and are interested in wide plank, maybe check out Stang-Lund. They make very quality solid and engineered wide plank flooring. Here is a link http://stang-lund.com/


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## sunkist (Apr 27, 2012)

Glued floor in high rise?. C/k with HOA STC specs?. 65 and up?.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> The super-flooring guys can give you more info, but as far as glue goes, I'm partial to Bostik's Best. Do NOT use anything with water in it. It may be too late, but good glue costs good money, and you need to factor it into your price. Monitor movement and brace things in place as you work, unless you keep up good production and keep things jammed; glue starts out slimy, and once things have set in place with a 1/8" gap half-way into the room, you have a tough situation to fix. Get the thinner/cleaner recommended by your flooring supplier; you'll have some glue drips.
> 
> That's my 3 or 4.


This will be my first flooring job, working alone.

Thanks


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

sunkist said:


> Glued floor in high rise?. C/k with HOA STC specs?. 65 and up?.


HOA just says "use some sort of pad underneath."

Thanks


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

When you say this is your first floor job, you mean that, right? This is your place?


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> When you say this is your first floor job, you mean that, right? This is your place?


Correct, I own it (not going to practice on someones property).

Thanks


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Condo_Guy said:


> Correct, I own it (not going to practice on someones property).
> 
> Thanks


DIYer, then. That's OK; sometimes it takes me a while to catch on. Do a simple, all-in-one-direction layout like the super-stores do, go slowly and carefully and you should get decent results.

Kenn's advice, from early in the thread, was good advice for a DIYer: consider a floated, click flooring. It is much more tolerant of novice installation error.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

CarpenterSFO said:


> We frequently work in multi-story condos on concrete floors. Our most common installation is engineered, glued on either cork or rubber underlayment, glued to the concrete. In California, and with additional rules in must condo buildings, the underlayment is required, and must meet a specific STC or IIC standard. Customers who want something less expensive usually go for a floated floor, and we generally send them to a flooring store rather than do it ourselves. With a glue-down engineered floor, you should be able to go to a wider plank.
> 
> Personally, I wouldn't glue down solid wide plank in that situation. Even though humidity is stable in most larger condo buildings, I'd be concerned about movement. In the end, though, you could refer to the manufacturer's warranty.


I work in a few condos which have floors like that. The base is 1/2" rubber, Regupol I believe. Very heavy, no sound transmission to lower floors. Everything is glued to that, hardwood, tile, marble. 

I would check for requirements for sound transmission or you could be removing your new floor.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

Regupol is very good. Personally, I like the cork tiles. They go down really fast and nothing is wanting to curl up.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

ccoffer said:


> Regupol is very good. Personally, I like the cork tiles. They go down really fast and nothing is wanting to curl up.


Yep the rolls are a pain in the ass.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Yep the rolls are a pain in the ass.


They must weigh a ton, just the small pieces I have moved weighed a lot. Hard to believe marble tiles can be installed over that.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Thanks for all the great replies, so far.

Considering that I'm going to be living in this condo for while (might even die there), I'd like to spare no expense on this flooring project.

Unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm presently leaning toward gluing, as opposed to floating.

While I will be addressing any potential sound transmission issues by using by proper underlayment, which feels better to walk on, Regupol or cork?

If it were your personal living space, how would you proceed?

Thanks


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Condo_Guy said:


> ...
> Considering that I'm going to be living in this condo for while (might even die there), I'd like to spare no expense on this flooring project.
> ...


Then hire a professional. No matter how you competent a DIYer you are, a professional will do a far better job of layout, edges, corners, transitions, etc.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Then hire a professional. No matter how you a DIYer you are, a professional will do a far better job of layout, edges, corners, transitions, etc.


That's definitely true, but regrettably, not in my budget (hence my exhaustive research).

Thanks


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Condo_Guy said:


> That's definitely true, but regrettably, not in my budget (hence my exhaustive research).
> 
> Thanks


I thought you were sparing no expense.

Edit: I hope a mod comes along soon and saves me from myself. This is just a DIY thread.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Op will need a fein chop saw table saw jig saw and a nail gun to reinstall base.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

CarpenterSFO said:


> I thought you were sparing no expense.
> 
> Edit: I hope a mod comes along soon and saves me from myself. This is just a DIY thread.


You're right Bob..... But it is X-mas.... and sounds like a nice guy



(Plus... selfishley, I'm learning something about different underlayments)

Best

Merry X-mas

Peter


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Metro M & L said:


> Op will need a fein chop saw table saw jig saw and a nail gun to reinstall base.
> 
> View attachment 104990


Got all that, so far. What else?

There never was baseboard in this unit (concrete walls). 

Thanks


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I looked up regupol or whatever that name was and learned something myself.
If you were a pro I would recommend only the Taylor meta-tec adhesive, it also has sound deadening properties but not sure about specs , it doesn't have water in it, and less steps to take.


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## 66 Shelby (Jan 11, 2009)

A couple of more suggestions - Rubber or cork, IMO doesn't matter since there's gypcrete, but definitely use one or the other. If you do glue down engineered, width doesn't really matter. It's more of what's pleasing to your eye. And I wouldn't do pre-finished in case you have to do a repair later on. Spend the extra $$, use an engineered (with a thick wear layer), and pay a pro to sand it. I just did a repair (for water damage) in a condo with 15' of lace-in. Original 13 year old floor was glued down pre-finished (over cork and gypcrete). Was only 100 s/f and it was a ***** to match. I had to use raw wood and bevel every board. Luckily my finisher is really good, so you couldn't even see the repair. Worst part is, when it was done, I found out the HO just wanted to fix it to sell the place. I could've just laid carpet over it and saved him $$$.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Does anyone have an opinion on using balanced engineered?

All the balanced material I see comes in 3/4" only.

Thanks


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

WTF? What are you thinking the term balanced means?


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

ccoffer said:


> WTF? What are you thinking the term balanced means?


It's my understanding that a 'balanced' piece of engineered wood uses only three, thicker plys of wood (as opposed to 5-7), with the bottom ply being the same species as the top.

Does this style of construction have any merit, or is it just clever marketing?

Thanks


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

66 Shelby said:


> IMO doesn't matter since there's gypcrete,


Not necessarily gypcrete, many ( most here )condos/apt.s use concrete planks for floors


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

rrk said:


> Not necessarily gypcrete, many ( most here )condos/apt.s use concrete planks for floors


Mine are precast concrete planks.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

You obviously have an agenda here. I don't believe you're simply fixing up your apartment.

Why not cut the bull**** and be honest about what you're after?

Where the hell did you come up with that definition of "balanced", anyway? Did you make it up? What the effing eff?


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

ccoffer said:


> You obviously have an agenda here. I don't believe you're simply fixing up your apartment.
> 
> Why not cut the bull**** and be honest about what you're after?
> 
> Where the hell did you come up with that definition of "balanced", anyway? Did you make it up? What the effing eff?


You think he's a balanced flooring spammer? I think next week he'll be arguing about whether the NEC allows him to skip putting a receptacle behind a door.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

ccoffer said:


> You obviously have an agenda here. I don't believe you're simply fixing up your apartment.
> 
> Why not cut the bull**** and be honest about what you're after?
> 
> Where the hell did you come up with that definition of "balanced", anyway? Did you make it up? What the effing eff?


I came upon the term 'balanced' during the course of my research of engineered wood.

Believe it or not, I'm now considering some type of wide, 5" laminate, as I really can't find any wide plank, distressed engineered that catches my eye. 

Not sure what you think my ulterior motive may be, just looking for flooring advice. Really.

I'm sorry to disappoint you, but there really is no conspiracy, or deeper meaning.

Do you have anything to offer that may help me?

Thanks


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## 66 Shelby (Jan 11, 2009)

I've been hearing the term 'Balanced Flooring' thrown around lately too. I'm thinking it's a more a marketing ploy/term than anything else to distinguish it from the stuff with an MDF core. 

Just my opinion, but I would stay away from a distressed floor. I think that fad is starting to go away (at least in my area) and then you're stuck with it. Floors get distressed on their own . JM2C


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Condo_Guy said:


> Got all that, so far. What else?
> 
> There never was baseboard in this unit (concrete walls).
> 
> Thanks


How are you going to cover the expansion gap?


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Metro M & L said:


> How are you going to cover the expansion gap?


Thinking about gluing baseboard to the concrete walls.

What do you suggest?

Thanks


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## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

I dont do any high rise work. Is it common to have concrete on the 5th floor as a finished wall?


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

*I came upon the term*

I'm done. I'll argue with someone who knows his ass from a hole in the ground. I won't entertain a fool.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

ArtisanRemod said:


> I dont do any high rise work. Is it common to have concrete on the 5th floor as a finished wall?


I don't think so. This building was constructed in 1966.

Thanks


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Condo_Guy said:


> Thinking about gluing baseboard to the concrete walls.
> 
> What do you suggest?
> 
> Thanks


Never been a big fan of glue on base. I would counter sink the molding, use a masonry drill for small diameter tapcons and then double fill and sand the paint grade base. 

You could do the same with stain grade. Use a dark would to accent the plug and finish away. 

Last year i took some 3/8 ply glued whit oak top nail to it glued 1/4 inch walnut to top and bottom for a sweet sandwhich effect. Looks like a million bucks.


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Metro M & L said:


> Never been a big fan of glue on base. I would counter sink the molding, use a masonry drill for small diameter tapcons and then double fill and sand the paint grade base.


Good idea. Can the baseboard somehow be used to hide coaxial TV cable?

I'm now struggling deciding between floating engineered vs floating LVP.

Difficult choice, as I've never actually walked on LVP (that I'm aware of).

Thanks


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## Condo_Guy (Dec 21, 2013)

Here's some pics of what I'm working with (hope this works)


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