# Draft stopping



## CambridgeAl (Nov 23, 2008)

I have to put in draft stopping in a basement I'm in the middle finishing. I know I can use 1/2 ply or drywall, but sliding it up and securing it in every bay seems like alot of work. My question is, since it's just draft and not fire stopping can I use R19 or 30 insulation? Seems like that may be the fastest in my situation.

Thanks!!


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## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

You may be able to use fire proof insulation (safing? sp). Inspectors would rather it be solid blocking though, because the safing can be knocked out. Use the safing for around pipes and wires or where getting solid blocking is near impossible.


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

CambridgeAl said:


> I have to put in draft stopping in a basement I'm in the middle finishing. I know I can use 1/2 ply or drywall, but sliding it up and securing it in every bay seems like alot of work. My question is, since it's just draft and not fire stopping can I use R19 or 30 insulation? Seems like that may be the fastest in my situation.
> 
> Thanks!!


Drat stop - Fire stop = same thing. If it will suck a draft, it will suck a fire. Solid blocking, sheet metal, type X or tempered masonite. Tight


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

In Denver I use unfaced insulation and then spray foam to lock it in.


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## Brock (Dec 16, 2007)

kevjob said:


> In Denver I use unfaced insulation and then spray foam to lock it in.


 
Hopefully you mean the fire foam (in the green can) The regular spray foam is more flammable than gasoline.


...


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## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

If it is behind the wall on the top where it meets the floor joist it is actually a fire stop too. You cannot have a wall bay open into a floor bay, even if it is from behind the wall between framing and foundation into floor cavity. At least thats what code is here in ny. We started nailing 1/2 ply to the bottom of the joist, from the line where the wall will go back to the foundation, or mud sill. Then just frame your walls and fire caulk or foam any penetrations. We started doin this after we had to do it the hard way of course, i HATE mineral wool.


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## ribuilder (Jan 10, 2009)

I think I remeber that Foster...was that at the "Kings House"? haha :thumbsup:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i think the only differnce between the fireblock foam and the regular foam is the color


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## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

ribuilder said:


> I think I remeber that Foster...was that at the "Kings House"? haha :thumbsup:


 :laughing:Yes King Oren, i was itchin in bed!!!


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## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> i think the only differnce between the fireblock foam and the regular foam is the color


 I think that it is denser too. Not sure of the chemical makeup.


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## MarkmillerConst (Feb 3, 2009)

If you are trying to make a code approved fire/ draft stop, from wood, it has to be 2x lumber, no plywood. Other options are 5/8 type x drywall - fire taped, diamond lath with plaster (stucco), or for small penetrations, spray foam, but only the fire stop stuff!!! Dap makes some and they sell it at Home Depot. There is also a refractory caulk that is used in fireplaces. The caulk sells at hoome Depot also.

You are trying to stop fire for 1/2 hour most times, and sometimes for 1 hour. Not just a little wind.


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## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

I guess our inspector does'nt know his stuff then.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

IRC allows 3/4 plywood and 2x framing and unfaced insulation if attached so when fire starts it won't blow out.


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