# Interior wood beams



## red_cedar (Mar 30, 2005)

My vaulted ceiling with a popcorn finish is loosing up at many of the corners ( hip style ceiling) and rather then patch the corners am considering covering the corners with wood beams.
Question is: For best appearance based on everyone's experience, should the beams be built with mitered corners or the sides be straight and slightly extend past the bottom middle board?


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Yes, butt joints with reveal or shadow line


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## Lugnut1968 (Dec 11, 2014)

I prefer the shadow line look over the flush look.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

A slight reveal is way more forgiving than a miter..


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## digiconsoo (Apr 23, 2012)

My favorite:


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

digiconsoo said:


> My favorite:



I usually always rabbet the bottom in some way or form. I like it.


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## owattabuilder (Sep 2, 2013)

I have always done the reveal and shadow line


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## AZ_Framer (Feb 1, 2015)

Take it from me...miter is not for the faint of heart. 

This was a pain and no matter how percise we tried it still wasn't "perfect". 16 finnish nails, glue, some clamps, and a whole lot of patience. 

Set aside some time if you dont yield the warnings. It wont be easy or fast.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

AZ_Framer said:


> Take it from me...miter is not for the faint of heart.
> 
> This was a pain and no matter how percise we tried it still wasn't "perfect". 16 finnish nails, glue, some clamps, and a whole lot of patience.
> 
> Set aside some time if you dont yield the warnings. It wont be easy or fast.


If you're gonna miter it, use a lock miter joint.


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## AZ_Framer (Feb 1, 2015)

We used a skillsaw on a 45 and straight line. Didn't have the tools to lock miter it. Turned out good, but not perfect.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

m1911 said:


> If you're gonna miter it, use a lock miter joint.



That's the only way I'd consider doing a mitered corner. But trust me when I say, don't try making a sharp outside corner with a locking miter. It's just not worth the aggravation. Chamfered edge is a lot more forgiving.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

I built 17' beams glued them up them sanded flush w the RO sander-made quick work of the cheap pine wood that wasn't straight


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## red_cedar (Mar 30, 2005)

The beams I'm thinking are going to be 1x6 on all the sides if mitered.
1x6 sides with 1x4 for the center if it will have a reveal.
Like the locked mitered corners as well as the rabbited joint for the reveal method.
Will have them made for me seeing I don't have the best equipment or experience to do it real well. 

Many of the pictures online like on houzz seem to mostly have mitered, but the reveal method looks more formal to me. I lean towards formal looking features. Room is about 20' ( w)x30' (L) with about a 13' ridge on the ceiling.

All the information has been extremely helpful. Pictures, if you guys have them, of the work you have done would be great.


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

Here's a couple of pics for you 1/8 to a 1/4 reveal are pretty normal....bevels take a run through the saw which takes a little more time an time equals $$$


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

I'll vote miter.....









Makita track saw (the only way to miter IMO) with biscuits.:thumbsup:


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

CrpntrFrk said:


> I'll vote miter.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Because a Festool tracksaw won't do it? :whistling:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Because a Festool tracksaw won't do it? :whistling:


Nah....you read too far into it. :laughing: Track saw period. DeWalt, Makita, Festool.....what ever flavor you like. Track saw is the best option for mitering a long run IMO.


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

I'm lost; I have 4 beams that need beveled down the length of a 12ft board. 4 beams 3 sides...so setting up the track twice for the bottom boards seems like a lot of work when u can set the table in two seconds an have all the boards ripped in like 10min. Your gonna spend ten min setting up all the moving parts with that track...carried one around for 6 months used it only once tapered Colums....


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Gaboy said:


> I'm lost; I have 4 beams that need beveled down the length of a 12ft board. 4 beams 3 sides...so setting up the track twice for the bottom boards seems like a lot of work when u can set the table in two seconds an have all the boards ripped in like 10min. Your gonna spend ten min setting up all the moving parts with that track...carried one around for 6 months used it only once tapered Colums....



If your job site table saw can rip a 45° bevel on a 12' board that is flawless you have more skills than me. The slightest slip and you're screwed.


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

With a helper that knows how to catch the outfeed no problem. Bosch 4100 or the large rigid table saw both have proven time and time again


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

No pinwheels....


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Gaboy said:


> I'm lost; I have 4 beams that need beveled down the length of a 12ft board. 4 beams 3 sides...so setting up the track twice for the bottom boards seems like a lot of work when u can set the table in two seconds an have all the boards ripped in like 10min. Your gonna spend ten min setting up all the moving parts with that track...carried one around for 6 months used it only once tapered Colums....


To each their own. 

I have yet to see a table saw provide the cut that my Makita track saw does. Splinter free with most of the dust being sucked away. One tic mark at each end, set the track down, and go. Ten minutes? :no:

I have the Ridgid table saw. It definitely has it's place. But it will not create the edge I pictured above like my Makita or any major brand track saw will.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

For a one off(or maybe a two off) I can see how a track saw would be equal to or better than a shop table saw, but a table saw is better for repetitive tasks. No tearout and a vacuum are there too. My belt-drive saw with a cast iron bed could break down a lot more material in an hour than a track saw and you'd only be moving the fence a few times.

If your table saw option is a portable then it's probably track saw, all the way.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

EthanB said:


> For a one off(or maybe a two off) I can see how a track saw would be equal to or better than a shop table saw, but a table saw is better for repetitive tasks. No tearout and a vacuum are there too. My belt-drive saw with a cast iron bed could break down a lot more material in an hour than a track saw and you'd only be moving the fence a few times.
> 
> If your table saw option is a portable then it's probably track saw, all the way.


I agree to a point but with a parallel guide on the track, I would not agree. With a table saw it is more than just moving the fence, it is moving the whole sheet of plywood or material to set it up to the table. Track saw is a lot easier to negotiate.

Now with smaller items I like the table saw.


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

I've never even seen a festoon track on a job......freestyle skillz; straight edge level clamps...see lots of those.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

*Interior Wood Beams*

I've screwed up a door by my circular saw diving in a bit despite a straight edge clamped. It takes far longer to do that then it does to lay a track right on the marks and cut.

No dust, splinter free, clean cuts, the list goes on. It's not that a tracksaw is the only way. It is however a better way in many cases.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I've screwed up a door by my circular saw diving in a bit despite a straight edge clamped. It takes far longer to do that then it does to lay a track right on the marks and cut.
> 
> No dust, splinter free, clean cuts, the list goes on. It's not that a tracksaw is the only way. It is however a better way in many cases.


Same here. All it takes is for the blade to not be square with the sled which should be running parallel to the straight edge and it will want to either dive in or run away from the straight edge. 

I cut down a couple $1000 poplar doors today. With a track and festool quick clamps I wasn't even stressed about it. I would have been sweating beads doing that with a regular circ saw and level.


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## Knight-Builder (Feb 19, 2015)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I've screwed up a door by my circular saw diving in a bit despite a straight edge clamped. It takes far longer to do that then it does to lay a track right on the marks and cut.
> 
> No dust, splinter free, clean cuts, the list goes on. It's not that a tracksaw is the only way. It is however a better way in many cases.


That's probably one of the biggest plusses of a track... Put it on the line and save all that time fiddling around what the distance between your clamped straightedge and circ. saw should be.


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

Living on the edge....hahaha track isn't the only option on a door....cool calm and collective gotta relax bro.... lmfao now this isn't me but...it's always cool to see freestyle....one slip an u might be buying an new door.....lmao


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Gaboy said:


> Living on the edge....hahaha track isn't the only option on a door....cool calm and collective gotta relax bro.... lmfao now this isn't me but...it's always cool to see freestyle....one slip an u might be buying an new door.....lmao


It is great to see people who still can cut a straight line. :laughing: :thumbsup:

Not sure where you are at (inside home, work shop, garage) but look at all that dust. I have used my track saw with MDF inside a home and in fact just cut a couple doors while they were still on the hinges. Hooked to a vac, there are just so many pluses for me.

Not trying to change anyone's mind just describing how the track saw has been such a great investment for me. I am a true believer in "to each their own". :thumbsup:


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