# Shower valve location



## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I have next to zero experience with shower renovations. So, I'm breaking myself in on a small bathroom with a good client. Ripped out a one piece fiberglass shower and have had to fix alot of other plumbing and structural problems. Anyway, my plumber on this job is a bit slap/dash. I had to relocate a shower valve. We are using a symmons temptrol shower valve. Pretty basic. Anyway the question is- the valve has a plastic shroud on it. It says that the back side of the plastic needs to be at the finished face of the tile. Now, it is going to be a kerdi job with porcelain tile. I'm figuring 7/8" finished including 1/2" cement board. But what I'm not sure about is what part of this plastic trim ring is the tile supposed to be referenced from? The thin part, or the smaller diameter circle? I think it is the thin part. And, wouldn't there be some play in this, as tile thickness can never be exact? I've included some photos. Thanks for any help. Nick


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Most of those I see want the FINISHED wall to be flush with this part


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## J L (Nov 16, 2009)

angus242 said:


> Most of those I see want the FINISHED wall to be flush with this part


I'll second that :thumbsup:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

So finished wall is finished face of the tile. Or finished surface to the back side of that thin plastic piece?


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Angus, didn't see your fancy arrow. Ok, so I'm ok. That is what I had figured. Now, as long as 7/8" is a good measurement for cement board kerdi and tile...


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

I'm unfamiliar with that type of valve. If it doesn't say on the plastic or in the directions, cut a piece of 3\4 ply with a hole and use that as a template to make any depth adjustments


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I guess it's worth asking this too. If you have to install a valve like this and tile has not been picked yet, so the tile thickness could vary up to 1/4". What do you do? Er on installing the valve proud or recessing it?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I wait until the tile is picked. I wouldn't want to be the one tearing out the tile to fix the valve if it's set incorrectly. :no:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I just can't believe there isn't some play with these valves. I mean, even if you know what all the thicknesses are can't the install very up to an 1/8" depending on how the tile is applied?


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## J L (Nov 16, 2009)

There is a little bit of play. Each valve is different. But I think what Angus is trying to say is don't rely on the play in the valve to fit the tile. Because if it's some off the wall tile that's really thick or thin, who's going to have to fix the valve? You are. And the only two options are go through the tile or go through the wall behind the valve. Neither of those is fun....

It may be worth waiting anyway because if you're working on the plumbing right now, the next step is usually tile. And if the tile isn't picked out yet, there could be a lead time with the tile that could delay the project. It's better to wait until the tile is known and then go from there.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

The tile is picked etc. I'm not worried about this job. Just tryin to figure for future jobs. Seems like people are always changing their minds about what they want. Or at least my wife is.


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## Terrorron (Nov 7, 2008)

There's always a degree of "playroom"; many of the more common "contractor line" valves have as much as +/-3/8": Price Pfister JX8 for example. Most "contractor" valves sit at the proper depth (or within the "tolerance") when screwed to a 2x4 on the flat in a 2x4 wall; i.e. backing at 2" from front of rough lumber. General rule is...bigger the price: tighter the tolerances. Grohe's and Riobel's are both "tight" to the written specs (3/32" for most Grohe stuff that I've dealt with) so do your math well and double check your plumber (if you're using one). Beware of the tolerances on Grohe's tub spouts as well (_if _you're doing your own plumbing):whistling... 

Yes, I went to school for plumbing...don't crucify me.:laughing:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I've got a plumber, but he is a bit slap dash. Good for this job, as everything is on the cheap.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

On the Price Pfister valve bodies we've used, when the plastic reference guide is removed you can adjust the depth of the body with shims (provided, that is, that you haven't locked it down like the OP's plumber did with the clamp as indicated). I will go behind the plumber and modify the mounting so that it is left at max depth and then shim to fit wherever the finished surface ends up. I am leary of drywall screws for that application. I'd go with a brass wood screw.


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Morning Wood said:


> Angus, didn't see your fancy arrow. Ok, so I'm ok. That is what I had figured. Now, as long as 7/8" is a good measurement for cement board kerdi and tile...


1/2" Cement board.
1/8" Kerdi
1/8"-1/4" thinset
3/8" tile

I usually allow 1" to 1 1/4" from framing.

Your rough in should allow this.

Dry fit the unit together because of the the handles look quite far out and if the rough in is set a little deeper they look better.

JW


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Terrorron said:


> General rule is...bigger the price: tighter the tolerances. Grohe's and Riobel's are both "tight" to the written specs (3/32" for most Grohe stuff that I've dealt with) so do your math well and double check your plumber (if you're using one). Beware of the tolerances on Grohe's tub spouts as well (_if _you're doing your own plumbing):whistling...


Ghohe is PITA, but at the end, looks great!:thumbsup:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

astor said:


> Ghohe is PITA, but at the end, looks great!:thumbsup:


Grohe fixtures are the most over engineered, time-consuming, aggravating to install, pieces of bathroom art in the world :laughing:

I *love* the results but *hate* to install them :thumbsup:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

JohnFRWhipple said:


> 1/2" Cement board.
> 1/8" Kerdi
> 1/8"-1/4" thinset
> 3/8" tile
> ...


Agreed - I typically shoot for an inch :thumbsup:


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Grohe fixtures are the most over engineered, time-consuming, aggravating to install, pieces of bathroom art in the world :laughing:
> 
> I *love* the results but *hate* to install them :thumbsup:


And Price Pfister is some of the worst crap out there. Some nice and different designs than the rest, but terrible QA inspection before it leaves the plant. I've had sealed boxes show up with missing parts or defective valves almost 100% of the time.

I used to call their customer service and they're happy to send replacement parts or merchandise. But when you've got a customer's sink faucet torn apart and dinner's 2 hrs away, a week for delivery is a little out of the question. And I got tired of having to run back to the supply house on my dime to exchange them too.

I won't touch them anymore! :no: :thumbdown:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

svronthmve said:


> And Price Pfister is some of the worst crap out there. Some nice and different designs than the rest, but terrible QA inspection before it leaves the plant. I've had sealed boxes show up with missing parts or defective valves almost 100% of the time.
> 
> I used to call their customer service and they're happy to send replacement parts or merchandise. But when you've got a customer's sink faucet torn apart and dinner's 2 hrs away, a week for delivery is a little out of the question. And I got tired of having to run back to the supply house on my dime to exchange them too.
> 
> I won't touch them anymore! :no: :thumbdown:


Yeah that would piss me off for sure. Thanks for the info.


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