# Top Plates Not At Same Height?



## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

I'm putting an addition on a house. The addition is 6 feet wider than the original. Roof slope is 4:12.

So this puts the new roof at just 12" higher than the existing, and since it has 2x12 rafter tails, :no: that's not gonna work.

I'm using trusses, with a raised heel, so that I can scab on 2x12 tails. I can raise the truss an extra foot, and/or raise the ceiling height a foot, (or whatever amount), but this now puts the top plates or eaves at different heights.

How is this gonna look? I can't seem to find what I'm looking for on Google Images.



Delta


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

That is the kind of thing I get paid to show and to figure out.

Andy.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

I actually hired a draftsman/designer for this project. He told me "just raise it up, it won't be noticeable". 

May I PM you? I had actually thought about asking you about this project, but I didn't know if you do stuff outside your area.



Delta


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

Oh crap, I do stuff all over the US of A.

PM anytime.

Andy.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

If you "turn" the ridge line 90 degrees, is the truss span shorter, thus lower.......?:whistling

Style wise, line up the the soffits and eaves, and sort the height difference out on the roof line, unless there is some sort of height limit in the local Zoning. IMO

If the energy heel and bird mouthed 2 x 12 rafters are the same dimension, shouldn't the soffit come together? If one wall is in line with the existing building, the roof peak will be 3 foot away from the old peak... and About 24" above the "existing" roof at the new Peak.... needing siding and a likely a half width soffit? Or you could frame up a 6' wide hip roof between the addition's roof and the old roof.(if the 6' offset is all to one side of the old house).

A few plan and elevation views would be worth a 1000 words.


You could "old school" the wall ceiling and roof framing with a ledger board to carry the ceiling joists, entirely separate from the roof framing/truss system that would bear on the top plate(s) freeing the stud length to fit any architectural requirement of alignment with existing framing... A variation on western framing...


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Here are some screen shots of the plans.

The blank section is the existing. It is 20 x 36 feet. The ridge line is down the center of the existing and the addition. If that makes sense. I can't figure out how to draw a line on it. The addition is 42' x 26'.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Can you offset the addition (and ridge)?


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

Would it not look like this then?

If it will then I am not sure what the problem would be.

It seems that the plates would be at the same height, no worries.

I must be missing something though, what is it?

I think it will look fine this way and I doubt that rebuilding the whole roof system is in the budget.

Andy.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Yes, that's exactly how it is.

My only issue is because of the dimensions. It has 2x12 tails, and the new roof will only be 12 inches above the existing. This puts the new fascia basically sitting on the existing roof. A ***** to roof and flash.

However, if I raise it another foot, so I now have some clearance, then my plates don't line up. 

I'd also thought about not doing an overhang on the transition side, but that has it's own whole set of issues.



Delta


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

Oh, I get it now.

Does it seem logical that even if you had a say 18" gable overhang on the new roof over the old that you would need to flash the roof to wall in the same manner as if there was no overhanging gable?

I might think about a snub gable detail on that side then.

I will put it together and post.

Andy.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

I dunno. With that fascia sitting on the shingles, I guess not much is gonna get in there.

I could try to convince them to re-roof the existing now, to save trouble later on, 'cause a re-roof on that is gonna suck.

In your opinion, would those plates not lining up be very noticeable, if I just raised it an extra foot? Or would that stick out?



Delta


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

On second thought, what if you were to flash the new roof fascia board to the old roof?
Rip the new fascia board to about 10.5", then install a simple "L" flashing under the fascia and at least 6" under the old roof material. Better yet, maybe step flashing?
Then fill in the two "ends" of the old roof under the new eaves so birds don't nest in there?
That would keep the look of the plans and keep out any weather.

Andy.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

ScipioAfricanus said:


> On second thought, what if you were to flash the new roof fascia board to the old roof?
> Rip the new fascia board to about 10.5", then install a simple "L" flashing under the fascia and at least 6" under the old roof material. Better yet, maybe step flashing?
> Then fill in the two "ends" of the old roof under the new eaves so birds don't nest in there?
> That would keep the look of the plans and keep out any weather.
> ...


That's a thought. :thumbsup:

And then just nail a frieze block in the overhang section.


Delta


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## hammer7896 (Feb 28, 2010)

ScipioAfricanus said:


> On second thought, what if you were to flash the new roof fascia board to the old roof?
> Rip the new fascia board to about 10.5", then install a simple "L" flashing under the fascia and at least 6" under the old roof material. Better yet, maybe step flashing?
> Then fill in the two "ends" of the old roof under the new eaves so birds don't nest in there?
> That would keep the look of the plans and keep out any weather.
> ...




We did a room like that a few years ago. Looks nice. 


Mike


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