# planing joists



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I'd like to level (plane or trim a little bit) a few joists to get a nice and flat ceiling in continuous rooms. Got any preferred method for marking them up? 

I've got two sagging down about 3/8" tops..over 8' feet, but otherwise fine, sturdy and tight on the ends, and a couple other random ones. Going back and forth on power plane vs. snapping some lines and then a circ. saw.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Depends how good you are with a saw.

You could always leave the line + and hit it with the planer.

Mark your cut locations and pop with a very thin chalk line.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Thin line and circ saw. You aren't making a piano.

On remodels with stuff in the way, it maybe be faster to shim the whole ceiling.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

griz said:


> Depends how good you are with a saw.
> 
> You could always leave the line + and hit it with the planer.
> 
> Mark your cut locations and pop with a very thin chalk line.





hdavis said:


> Thin line and circ saw. You aren't making a piano.
> 
> On remodels with stuff in the way, it maybe be faster to shim the whole ceiling.


yup.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Thanks.

It'll probably be a pita to see my lines, so will probably go with the combo method. I could use some new planer blades anyway, so this is a good call to action.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Piece o' cake. Here's how I do it.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Tempting.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

when using an electric planer I usually take a sharpie and mark a start and finish point and then make an x in the heaviest spot.

3/8 is a bit much but I use a planer often it works very well.


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## sunkist (Apr 27, 2012)

hdavis said:


> Thin line and circ saw. You aren't making a piano.
> 
> On remodels with stuff in the way, it maybe be faster to shim the whole ceiling.


 I am with you. string it then cut strips and pin them to the under side of the joist let the drywall screws hold it good and tight.


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## Deckhead (Dec 9, 2010)

I make marks at end and snap lines with a Fujitsu white chalk line, don't take the line and should be one small pass with the planer. If it's only a few and there's stuff in the way, break out the cordless jigsaw finish with a nice sharp chisel. If it's a pot of them, shim the damn thing.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Just did this on a ceiling today. Use a planer with a vacuum attachment. Makes quick accurate work of it. Take some off and use a straight edge to get to where you need to go. I have a 12' aluminum square tubing bar specifically for this. Here's where I used it to set up my fences on my miter saw setup. Hard to see but it's sitting on the fences. 












Mike.
_______________


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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

Tinstaafl said:


> Piece o' cake. Here's how I do it.




Wow, I didn't know you are a plumber.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Planer on a vac is the deal.

Last winter I furred out a ceiling that had a belly in it about 2.5 down in the middle. major settling due to hacking and poor planning from old plumbing work above. I put a laser on it and used the track saw to create tapers then tuned it up with the planer. Dead flat. The rockers said its was flatter than the new work they see.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Mordekyle said:


> Wow, I didn't know you are a plumber.


Nah. That's a chainsaw, not a sawsall.


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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

Tinstaafl said:


> Nah. That's a chainsaw, not a sawsall.




With cordless chainsaws becoming more popular, it's only a matter of time before legitimate plumbers switch.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Tom M said:


> The rockers said its was flatter than the new work they see.


That ain't always saying much :whistling


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## sunkist (Apr 27, 2012)

Texas Wax said:


> That ain't always saying much :whistling


 Now that's funny "RITE THURE" :laughing:


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Texas Wax said:


> That ain't always saying much :whistling


I know, sad state of quality these days. I doubt these guys framing even crown lumber. When I framed we always did strong backs in attics to keep ceilings in line. It's a rare occasion I see it now.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Tom M said:


> I know, sad state of quality these days. I doubt these guys framing even crown lumber. When I framed we always did strong backs in attics to keep ceilings in line. It's a rare occasion I see it now.




Sad but true. We had to fight to get strong backs in some models. The truss sagging was a drywallers nightmare. 


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

I would ignore the sagging joists, put the boards up, and try to not look at the wavy ceiling too often.

Did it in my own house just a couple months ago. Worked great!


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