# Multi-tool blade for plaster?



## BrooklynBravest (Oct 12, 2015)

Have to make a pretty clean cut to tie in plaster walls with Sheetrock. Thankfully the plaster has a perforated drywall type material behind it rather than wood lath.

Would a semi circle grout blade me a good choice? Any brand recommendations?

If not the multi tool I was just going to use a diamond wheel in a grinder.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

I have had good luck using the Bosch carbide blades.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Keep in mind, they make some good sawzall blades for plaster which will cut very clean...I tried the multi tool...it works, but pretty slow. 

Since I own the Bosch tuck pointer, I'll slap a single blade on and plunge in under vacuum...badazz, quick and little mess.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

You have to use the bi-metals or carbide blades, the round ones are toothless in about 6 inches of cutting

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

I've seen the grout blade used. We've also used the Bosch Carbide to do the cutting.

My normal method for plaster is a Festool TS55 with a CMT blade for cutting plaster and an angle grinder to finish the corners.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Fast, pretty good cut, but a lot of dust - circ saw and demo blade.

Really fussy stuff and not much dust - oscillating multitool, but won't cut wood lath once the teeth wear off, plaster still cuts with the teeth gone.

Best sawzall blade for plunge cuts - DeWalt, has a single tooth on the end, then skips a few teeth. it doesn't wander around as bad when you plunge.

Personally, I'd use the cir saw for long cuts, and the multitool for finishing the cuts.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

Unless you are certain there is no electrical behind the plaster, I wouldn't risk the sawzall. Very easy to slip and cut a live wire. 


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## BrooklynBravest (Oct 12, 2015)

slowsol said:


> Unless you are certain there is no electrical behind the plaster, I wouldn't risk the sawzall. Very easy to slip and cut a live wire.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm trying to split the difference of a stud anyway sawzall won't work.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

As Travis said, TS-55 with CMT blade.

Tom


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## SouthonBeach (Oct 18, 2012)

I do like superseal, I don't have a tuck point setup but I do have the dust shroud for a grinder. Pop a diamond blade on it, hooked to the vacuum, cuts it like butter with minimal mess. Finish off the corners with an omt grout blade


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## BrooklynBravest (Oct 12, 2015)

tjbnwi said:


> As Travis said, TS-55 with CMT blade.
> 
> Tom


That's an awesome setup. I have a DW track saw. Not nearly as nice.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

BrooklynBravest said:


> I'm trying to split the difference of a stud anyway sawzall won't work.


Why split the stud...you get more meat to secure the plaster side if you pack it out. Plus, you'll probably have to shim out the drywall anyway to meet the plaster thickness...just thinking out loud :whistling


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

slowsol said:


> Unless you are certain there is no electrical behind the plaster, I wouldn't risk the sawzall. Very easy to slip and cut a live wire.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I always pop a hole and jam my inspection scope in there for interior walls...you never know what you're gonna find...including ex-wives :laughing: With insulation...all bets are off...stay shallow my friend.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

BrooklynBravest said:


> I'm trying to split the difference of a stud anyway sawzall won't work.


Still doable with a sawzall - blade and technique.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Yep, diamond sawzall blade. I can usually keep it to no more than 1/8" of wander.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Grinder with a cutoff wheel works great too if you don't have much to cut. You get maybe 10' out of a $2 disc. Diamond wheel also works. 

Rotozip also works.

Too much risk of cracking with a sawzall, though it's a little better if you're following a stud.


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## J.C. (Sep 28, 2009)

tjbnwi said:


> As Travis said, TS-55 with CMT blade.
> 
> Tom


+1 Although I use a diamond blade.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

SouthonBeach said:


> I do like superseal, I don't have a tuck point setup but I do have the dust shroud for a grinder. Pop a diamond blade on it, hooked to the vacuum, cuts it like butter with minimal mess. Finish off the corners with an omt grout blade


Last time I did it like you but I used tape to close the side of the grinder. The vacuum took all of it but....... can't see the line. I have to make an offset mark that matches my guide so I can see it.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

J.C. said:


> +1 Although I use a diamond blade.


I have a diamond blade for my TS 55 also, the CMT blade cuts plaster and drywall better with less dust.

Tom


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Who makes the diamond with a 20mm bore? 

_________


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> Who makes the diamond with a 20mm bore?
> 
> _________


I have them shipped from across the pond---friends in low places:thumbsup:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ATS-Diamond-Bushboard-Max-Top-Festool/dp/B00J1HEGFI

Tom


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## J.C. (Sep 28, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> Who makes the diamond with a 20mm bore?
> 
> _________



I got mine from amazon. Diamond Blade


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## Donquardo (Oct 29, 2015)

I've been using a fein diamond blade for plaster work a whole lot lately. IIRC it's a grout blade.


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

Officially signing on for the Superseal method. 

The sawzall sucks for plaster. You can be perfect for the entire day using the thing, but if you hang up on one stupid nail or something for one single second, the entire wall is compromised, then you might as well have just torn the entire thing down and replaced with rock. Especially if you're working upside down like Tom posted pics of.

Plastic everything off, get a vacuum set up, and make the cut with the diamond blade on the angle grinder or that tuck pointer thingy Seal has that I've never used. Cuts like butter and never hangs up on anything causing vibration.

Last thing, for whatever reason, that weird holed drywall predecessor that comes in the 2'x4' sheets gets called Beaver Board around here. It's one of my favorite colloquialisms and always makes me giggle whenever I find the stuff.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Easy Gibson said:


> Officially signing on for the Superseal method.
> 
> The sawzall sucks for plaster. You can be perfect for the entire day using the thing, but if you hang up on one stupid nail or something for one single second, the entire wall is compromised, then you might as well have just torn the entire thing down and replaced with rock. Especially if you're working upside down like Tom posted pics of.
> 
> ...


I can make the entire cut without any plastic being hung. 

Tom


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## BBuild (Oct 10, 2012)

tjbnwi said:


> I have a diamond blade for my TS 55 also, the CMT blade cuts plaster and drywall better with less dust.
> 
> Tom


Will it also go through the wood lathe and an occasional nail easily?


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## Deckhead (Dec 9, 2010)

BBuild said:


> Will it also go through the wood lathe and an occasional nail easily?


They don't like wood and a nail would ruin them.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

BBuild said:


> Will it also go through the wood lathe and an occasional nail easily?


The CMT blade? If so;

Wood, wire and blue board easily. Nails are not an issue, it does not like screws. 

The diamond blade---wood not well, blue board not an issue, should be fine with metal. Avoid screws. 

The first three are photos of drywall cut so I could let in cabinet backer. The drywall is over a hollow cast plaster wall. The cut is very clean, used caulk in anchors to secure the backer. 

Fourth picture is a close up of the plaster ceiling cut.

Tom


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## BBuild (Oct 10, 2012)

Yes I was referring to the 4 tooth CMT blade and the nails would be the small 4d nails used to hang the wood lathing.

I assume it would also work pretty well on rock lathe. 

I don't think I'm brave enough to try it on wire lathe.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

BBuild said:


> Yes I was referring to the 4 tooth CMT blade and the nails would be the small 4d nails used to hang the wood lathing.
> 
> I assume it would also work pretty well on rock lathe.
> 
> I don't think I'm brave enough to try it on wire lathe.


Like Tom says, it works good through wood. It's so much better than any other method I've tried, it's not even close. I've set the depth to cut through plaster and wood, as well as plaster and rock lathe both and have had no issues. I've cut through plenty of nails with it I'm sure. 

3 of the teeth are missing off mine and it still cuts fine. I can make a good 30' of cut and have less dust than about 6" with the angle grinder and a vacuum.


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