# Bought a new bandsaw today



## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Great to meet ya and your brother. Never got to say I liked his porkchops. 

Anytime you want to come up and poke around GR for old tools let me know. 

Kinda surprised me that ya pulled out that Ryobi drill to attach that bad boy tho. :devil:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Ryobi :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Ryobi :laughing::laughing::laughing:


RYOBI?????? When did Ryobi get bought out by Festool?:blink::laughing::laughing:


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Glad you got it home in one piece. The top part was wiggling pretty good when I was following you on the dirt road. Was worried it might crack it you hit a big chuck hole. Guess it turned out ok from the pictures. 

Nice old guy ya got it from. Good thing we didn't have to move that broke down car.


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

How did the 'burb do on the road trip from MI to IN?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

mehtwo said:


> How did the 'burb do on the road trip from MI to IN?


It is a comfy ride with great tunes, she just likes to stop at all the gas stations though. The 454 is a hungry beast.:laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Paulie said:


> Glad you got it home in one piece. The top part was wiggling pretty good when I was following you on the dirt road. Was worried it might crack it you hit a big chuck hole. Guess it turned out ok from the pictures.
> 
> Nice old guy ya got it from. Good thing we didn't have to move that broke down car.


I noticed it bouncing around a little bit too. I don't know how you could avoid it, short of putting a block in there and another strap over the top.

I am still wondering about the tranny being out of that car, did he mean that someone took it out or it just went out like broke.:laughing:

That thing was not going to move, unless I could have dragged it backwards with the Burban.:laughing:


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It is a comfy ride with great tunes, she just likes to stop at all the gas stations though. The 454 is a hungry beast.:laughing:


I got a 454 in a crew cab i need to put back together someday, I bought it wrecked and fixed most of it. Anyways I hope it will justify itself over buying a diesel for as little as I will use it.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I was outside giver her a good looking over and I did find a marking on the upper guide roller, the lower is missing.

I have no idea if it is the original roller or not but, it says J. A. Fay and Egan on it.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I found some stamped numbers on the guides and two patent dates.

One was August 2 90 (1890) the other was March 3 91.

There are also some other numbers and some total mumbo jumbo on the one.

Is says NEWORANGE on the one.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Ok, the guides were made by Charles Wright.

The Aug 12 1890 was the patent date and they were made in New Orange, NJ.

I don't know if this gets me any closer to figuring out who made the saw but, I feel like I accomplished something.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

angus242 said:


> So you're saying it's actually older than Tin????
> 
> I thought maybe you went to Sears today and picked up one of these:
> 
> ...



That looks awesome...wonder how good it is....


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Hey D,
This is a tuff nut to crack- is it on the shaft or the guides themselves? Can you throw some pics of all that info? 

Thanks,

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Hey D,
> This is a tuff nut to crack- is it on the shaft or the guides themselves? Can you throw some pics of all that info?
> 
> Thanks,
> ...


it is on the guides.

I bet it won't photograph too well, I almost had an aneurism trying to read it to begin with.:laughing:


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

These? http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/repairparts/bandsawparts/wrightguides/wrightguides.htm

If so, they are most likely #0. My Tanny has two #1's.

They are also sometimes called "Black Diamond" guides....one & the same. The Black Diamond shop is still in existance somewhere in the Northeast. A lot of heavy band saws used their guides, & parts are still available. Let me know if you need a supplier. I'm pretty sure the place I bought tires for my 7 1/2hp Grizzly resaw sells Wright parts.

I ended up making some new jaws out of some old lathe cutterhead knife stock to fix mine up.

I kinda doubt that that machine is a Fay Egan. Nothing about it resembles mine, or any I've seen. My money is still on that it's a Silver Manufacturing saw, circa 1890-1900.
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Yeah those are almost identical. I will post some pictures of my guides. 

Thanks man.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I can't get any of the markings to hardly show up on these.

Here are a few pictures, I will see if I can get a better shot later.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

That is old.... that's for sure,,,,,:thumbup: Is is missing some parts? :blink: I don't expect to see a thrust bearing on it but there has to be a back guide of some sort - you may want to consider going with ceramic for the sides (channel) D if you plan on using that- they are awesome-


I wonder if you can throw a Carter guide setup on that post-it may be a possibility....I see them up for sale - they are a nice setup....Got it on the Moak 32- operates as smooth as planned board ..... :thumbup: 


Thanks for the pics D.:thumbsup:


B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> That is old.... that's for sure,,,,,:thumbup: Is is missing some parts? :blink: I don't expect to see a thrust bearing on it but there has to be a back guide of some sort - you may want to consider going with ceramic for the sides (channel) D if you plan on using that- they are awesome-
> 
> 
> I wonder if you can throw a Carter guide setup on that post-it may be a possibility....I see them up for sale - they are a nice setup....Got it on the Moak 32- operates as smooth as planned board ..... :thumbup:
> ...


The one guide roller is out in the shop, I am missing one.

I will take these apart and get them all cleaned up and functioning properly and use them. I can still get replacement parts for them so that is good.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

A little more info on the Wright guides: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2154
Just download pdf.
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Maybe I should make it treadle operated.:laughing:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That is what Jesus would do.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Maybe I should make it treadle operated.:laughing:


Invest in some good footware........just a thought.....:whistling:laughing: 

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Invest in some good footware........just a thought.....:whistling:laughing:
> 
> B,


I will make my oldest daughter man that operation. Just fill her full of Mountain Dew first.:laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

or,,, remeber that Cola back in the 80's,,,,the one that was pulled from the shelves, hmmmmmm,,,,,, I want to say JOLT....somthing like 5 times the caffine.........










Ah...." give it to me, give it to me",,,, "dammit!!".,,,, "NOW where's my cheesburger",, "and where the hell are the fries"..... "your not moving fast enough"- "get going!!!!!"... "I'm in no hurry"- " but for the love of caffine"..."STEP ON IT",,, "GET GOING"!!!!!!!!:laughing: 


B,:laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I like the new tags, you clowns.:jester::laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Thank you,,,,where looking out for you.....:clap::clap::laughing:


B,


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## Aaron Berk (Jul 10, 2010)

PrestigeR&D said:


> or,,, remeber that Cola back in the 80's,,,,the one that was pulled from the shelves, hmmmmmm,,,,,, I want to say JOLT....somthing like 5 times the caffine.........
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Here ya go --- a coke, fry and a cheeseburger http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DOEVzL9mCs&feature=related


But if it's just caffeine your lusting after --- Starbucks --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zl-B9FPj6xI


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Guy's, it's only 40 hp.:whistling

It's 60 hz. I bought this to replace a 60 hp on my straight line gang rip. Once I figured out that the 60 hp was a y delta soft start, I realised that I was much better off with the original 60. I thought that I could use the Baldor with the saws soft start sytem, but I was wrong.

The original 60 hp is rated at 160 amp at 60 hp, but I've not seen the ampmeter go beyond 80, even on start up, even with 6 blades set up.

Here it is before I set it up. My guys thought the tank needed some dressing up, so hence Shrek with hardhat, cannon, & swastika!:jester:
Not my taste, but they thought it was funny.









Brian, 
The Tanny is complete, & runs great. I guess I could post a few more picts of final repairs. I eventually plan on painting, but that'll have to wait for the next slow down. We've been pretty busy, & it appears it's going to stay that way for the next quarter.
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Getting real close. I am going to go get my new tires put on this week and order a few blades. I will just use the current motor until I sniff something out for it. 

I have to order/find one guide roller as well. The UBS ( unidentified band saw) has a couple nice projects lines up for it.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

That Table turned out great!!!!:thumbup: Nice Job D! :thumbsup: So what's her first project........









B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> That Table turned out great!!!!:thumbup: Nice Job D! :thumbsup: So what's her first project........
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Getting herself put back together.:laughing:

I will have some questions about the hole in the table after while.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I see the tag fairy struck again.....:shifty::laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Are you wondering about the Blade center line/center point. :blink:



Take the upper and lower guide assemblies off. Get a sheet of plywood and cut it to a manageable size for this jig. Cut it to the length to Span the upper and lower wheel. Cut out the middle area on the plywood, just a little larger than thickness of the table (your sliding it into the table). Once it's over and resting up against the wheels on the tire area ,there is your vertical center line. You can also use the jig to get the center point of the wheels as well just use some quick clams or "C" clamps, whatever works for you, then clamp the jig to the wheels. 

If this wasn't the question, well, ah, :blink::laughing:

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

That was sort of it. I didn't go all jigged out on it but, I found where the blade would pass through at 0 and 45. I figure I can drill a shallow 2" hole for an insert and then drill a hole just a little bit bigger then the distance between my two marks.

Just have to mark a line to cut so you can install the blade.

I did find an issue that I have to address. 

I will go out in a little bit and take some pictures with a real camera.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Real picture time.

You can see the spot under the table where I had to route out some of the Hickory to clear the guide when I tilt the table to a 45.

There are two marks in the last photo, the one on the right is where the blade is at 90 and the one on the left is where it is at 45.

I need to get the wheels painted tonight and I can have the old girl back together and running by weeks end.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

It's coming together:thumbup:Looks good D:thumbsup:



B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Wheels painted. Off to find a replacement roller, wish I could find an old one but, I am out of time to be picky.

I need to wax the table too.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Well, I just picked up my wheels with the new tires installed. 
They found me a new wright guide roller, a #2 by the way and I have determined that I need to get another one. 
I had 337.00 bucks in new tires, installation and the guide roller. 

The dang guide wheel was 120 bucks and I am going to have to 
order another one. 

Band saw 140.00
Paint 10.00
Tires with install 200.00
Guide roller 120.00

Total so far: 470.00 

I will have 600 bucks into it when it is all said and done. 
I guess that is not too bad. 
I could have bought one for 600 bucks and still dropped a few hundred into it.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Shouldn't you be at a clients house getting yelled at or something. :laughing:

Looks like she's coming together.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I dropped off all the stuff I had done. 
I have a 20' trailer and there was no room for tools. I am painting the crown right now.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

you still havn't turned it on as of yet..... ,, something may happen resulting in













B,







:laughing: :jester: look forward to seeing her up & running D,,,,:thumbsup:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> you still havn't turned it on as of yet..... ,, something may happen resulting in
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I still need to try and find a vintage motor for it too.

Hey, thanks for the encouraging words.:laughing:


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

From top of pg 4 this thread:



Railman said:


> Maybe put this one on top, & your other one (smaller one?) on the bottom.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
> Joe


I tried!:whistling

The first listing round started at $29, & no one bid. 
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Railman said:


> From top of pg 4 this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well.....uh..yeah.:001_unsure: I wasn't, hell I don't remember what I did yesterday morning.:laughing:

I did figure out tonight that there is no way I can run a new guide wheel on the bottom one. I just have to modify what they already had there and it should work really good.

I think it probably had a wood guide for the lower guide.

So that saves me some money.

I am kind of glad I bought a new Guide wheel, never have to worry about it again.

Next time I will try to pay more attention.:laughing:


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Band saw 140.00
> Paint 10.00
> Tires with install 200.00
> Guide roller 120.00


The thrill of getting some vintage iron back in action:
PRICELESS
:thumbup::clap::thumbsup:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

mehtwo said:


> The thrill of getting some vintage iron back in action:
> PRICELESS
> :thumbup::clap::thumbsup:


Seems to me their were prices listed there. :whistling


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Not quite priceless. .


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That's what I'm saying...


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

So how's it coming along...










B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> So how's it coming along...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Better then your jointer........:jester::laughing:



























wheels are one, guides are done, need to cut slot in table and drill a hole in it. Still need to make a vertical piece of hardwood for the left side (runs along the blade) and a piece for the riser.

I have some timber from a house built in 1849 and I have some chunks of Chestnut from my house.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Well, it cuts wood!!

Got a few little issues to go over, mostly reducing vibrations.

I see now that this frame style does not offer too much in terms of rigidity, I need to chase down all the little sources of vibration.

I got the blade tracking right down the middle of both tires and a couple other small things really smoothed it out.

Getting real close to earning it's keep


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

That's Awesome D....:thumbsup:


B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Another horrible video by yours truly.

I have no idea what I need to do to get this thing running a little more smoothly.

I did cut a few things with it today.

Nevermind the switch laying on that 16" saw blade, that is the factory location.:laughing:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

The blade should not rub against the bearing until you push a pc of wood into it.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> The blade should not rub against the bearing until you push a pc of wood into it.


yeah, well I could not pause my video camera to adjust it all when I put the blade on. So, lets just roll with the shimmy thing I got going on.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Ya, the shimmy thing....it's not suppose to do that.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I also can't get the guides over far enough so that the blade does not rub.

Good thing the scrap yard is only 4 blocks down the road.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Ya, the shimmy thing....it's not suppose to do that.


Has to be the top wheel. It is pretty smooth with just the bottom wheel turning. Could be the craptastic blade too.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Either the blade is warped, the wheels have vertical runout, or the upper wheel is out of balance.

I'd check the wheel runouts 1st. If you don't have a dial indicator, just clamp a piece of wood so it just touches the rubber at the highest spot. Then use a feeler gage, (or eyeball) to see how much it runs out. A typical sheet of note paper is about .004". 
Then I'd spin the upperwheel to opperating speed without a blade to check the bal issue. A hand held drill can be used to do this. 

Have you tried indexing the upper & lower wheels to different locations with the blade? If it's a balance issue, relocating wheels might cancel each other out.

Don't pay any attention to me though if you don't want answers.:whistling
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Railman said:


> Either the blade is warped, the wheels have vertical runout, or the upper wheel is out of balance.
> 
> I'd check the wheel runouts 1st. If you don't have a dial indicator, just clamp a piece of wood so it just touches the rubber at the highest spot. Then use a feeler gage, (or eyeball) to see how much it runs out. A typical sheet of note paper is about .004".
> Then I'd spin the upperwheel to opperating speed without a blade to check the bal issue. A hand held drill can be used to do this.
> ...



I have checked the lower axle shaft and it has no run out.
The lower wheel is another story. I set up my magnetic base dial indicator and it is all over the place. Not sure what the issue is there, maybe a lumpy casting causing that. 

I am not sure what you mean by relocating the wheels.

I need to get a new blade made, that will only cost me 24 bucks, so that is cheap.

Thanks Joe.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I am not sure what you mean by relocating the wheels.


Make a chalk mark at the 12:00 position on each wheel. Loosen the blade and rotate one wheel so the mark is at say, the 6:00 position while the other remains at 12. Tighten the blade and try it. Also 3:00 and 9:00.

But from the video I doubt that will do the trick.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> Make a chalk mark at the 12:00 position on each wheel. Loosen the blade and rotate one wheel so the mark is at say, the 6:00 position while the other remains at 12. Tighten the blade and try it. Also 3:00 and 9:00.
> 
> But from the video I doubt that will do the trick.


ahhhhh, re-clocking them.

I have probably had the blade on the wheels in 15 different positions.

I guess I need to figure out how to try and balance the wheels.


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

What type of bearings support the wheels? Is a shaft possibly slightly bent?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

tgeb said:


> What type of bearings support the wheels? Is a shaft possibly slightly bent?


Babbitt bearing's. I checked the run out on the shaft and it is almost not readable. 

It has to be something with the wheels and I am thinking that the big pulley that has a little wobble to it is not helping either.

I priced out a new pulley and quickly decided against replacing. It was 150 bucks.

There was a large lead weight on each wheel that I took off when I was working on the wheels. It vibrated then too so, I am not sure.

Lots of spinning parts to check.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Good info Joe!...:thumbsup: 

I am thinking babbitts are the cause... it might have some run-out on the hub shaft or maybe both..... 

If you find the run-out on the wheel ... could be the hub on the wheel, could be the babbitts are worn, or the shaft and babbitts may be worn out of round, You have to remember this saw is from the late 1800's and metallurgy back then was no where near todays modern castings and if that saw was not oiled like it should have been in the first place, chances are there is definitely going to be some ware & tare on those parts. you might think because you have it snug that it's all good and then go to the wheel and find some run-out more than 5000 of an inch.... 

that grease was used (if not maintained) picks up fine metal particles form the babbitt and after a while will act like an abrasive and ware out the mate on those parts.

Those bearings are a real PITA...... and I HATE THEM!!!! thats why I don't have any... 

217............:whistling:thumbup::clap::laughing:


B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I Just watched your video... top wheel,,, I would start there... move the wheel side to side...with out the blade installed....see if you have some play...

your blade should be riding top dead center. If your babbitts are worn on the bottom of that bearing ,that could be why she won't run at TDC ......you should have an adjustment for the tilt on the upper wheel ,,,

throw the blade on , but not to tight... if you have an adjustment for the pitch back of on it so the blade starts to fall TDC ... 


but that wear on the bottom side of that bearing may be causing a Ya affect...because of the ware and angle of the wear....


I would start with the wheel.... if there's some slop then all the other possible issues cant be discovered until the slop is gone...

B,:thumbsup:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I really don't think it is the bearings.

there is no run out on the drive shaft at all.

I either have an out of round wheel, which can be fixed by dressing the tire or I have out of balance wheels, or both.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> I Just watched your video... top wheel,,, I would start there... move the wheel side to side...with out the blade installed....see if you have some play...
> 
> your blade should be riding top dead center. If your babbitts are worn on the bottom that could be why she won't run at TDC ......you should have an adjustment for the tilt on the upper wheel ,,,
> 
> ...


There is a yaw adjustment and adjustment for the left to right skew too.

I can get the blade to track right in the middle of both wheels.

I may need to check the pitch of the lower shaft and see if it is level or not and add shims under the bearing housing to adjust that.

If I get this damn thing running smoothly I am going to sell it. I am tired of looking at it.:laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

If you look at machinery from that era , running today.....they have some wobble,....somewhere .....

Unless they have been updated, pillow bocks.....and the shafts and wheels turned....


Your going to get some vibes.....



Thats the Nature in that period of Arn D.... Can be fixed to run like a top, but at what cost....

,
If there is some machining involved.... they are going to need to throw the wheel on a turret lathe and bore out the hub, install a compressed steel sleeve and then machine the center bore and mill the key-way ... then machine the pulley shaft, or replace it completely with new.
That's the bottom wheel... The top would have the same process... 


And if the babbits are being considered for an updated replacement utiliziing pillow block bearings.,,,, and that option is only available if you have a decent platform to work with as far as fabrication,,,,,


I would do what you can D,,,,but once you get into machining & milling,,,,,,,.it better be worth it,,,,


You really should crown the tires if there is no slop in the shaft....



B,:thumbsup:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I really don't think it is the bearings.
> 
> there is no run out on the drive shaft at all.
> 
> I either have an out of round wheel, which can be fixed by dressing the tire or I have out of balance wheels, or both.


Don't mention bearings to Brian...he's relentless.:laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Why can't you believe that there is no slop in a shaft run in babbitt's?:whistling:laughing:

I can pull the lower wheel and see if I can get a reading on the tapered end of the shaft where the lower wheel goes on. 

I need to figure out a way to stop the drive pulley from having it's slight lean too. 

The tires are plenty thick enough that I can work on getting them trued up so I don't have all that outside rim runout.

I think you would be a little out of round too if you were 125+ years old too.:laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Don't mention bearings to Brian...he's relentless.:laughing:


:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

I don't know much about OWWM, but when I first looked at the video and saw the first pulley, the one driven by the motor, it looked pretty wonkity to me. I would start there and get that end running true.

Then move on to the lower wheel and get it dead on, then figure out if the top wheel is even an issue at all.

The different stresses created by the motor and first pulley could throw that whole unit out of whack.

I think that it is possible to get that baby running smooth as silk, with a little work.

You pulled the weights, but it might still need some weight somewhere to get her smoothed out. Like B. said the manufacturing back in the day was nothing like today...

The motor or even the pully on the motor could create the issues I see.

That is a cool old saw D. stick with it, you'll get it fingured out.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> :laughing::laughing::laughing:


http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/tls/2556707360.html


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

tgeb said:


> I don't know much about OWWM, but when I first looked at the video and saw the first pulley, the one driven by the motor, it looked pretty wonkity to me. I would start there and get that end running true.
> 
> Then move on to the lower wheel and get it dead on, then figure out if the top wheel is even an issue at all.
> 
> ...


the drive pulley is a little suspect, it's bore is a little bit big for the shaft and when I tighten down the set screw, it skews the pulley a little bit. I about pooped my pants when I priced out a new one though. 

I really need to use this thing for a few projects and it is just getting frustrating. I knew it was going to be a project for sure, it just gets annoying when I can only work on it for an hour here and there.

Thanks for the encouragement Tom.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/tls/2556707360.html


I am going to an auction in a couple weeks where there is a nice direct drive Oliver 217. I might try to pick it up but, it could be a total project too though.:laughing:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Just trying to get you to buy something plug and play....


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Just trying to get you to buy something plug and play....


I bought a couple plug and plays, there were anything but when it came down to it.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Some pedals, a seat, handlebars... would make a cool looking bicycle:thumbup:


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> the drive pulley is a little suspect, it's bore is a little bit big for the shaft and when I tighten down the set screw, it skews the pulley a little bit. I about pooped my pants when I priced out a new one though.
> 
> I really need to use this thing for a few projects and it is just getting frustrating. I knew it was going to be a project for sure, it just gets annoying when I can only work on it for an hour here and there.
> 
> Thanks for the encouragement Tom.


Maybe you could get a drive pulley with a smaller dia. and get it sized correctly by a shop for a few bucks.

The graceful/delicate frame of that saw will not take the yaw and vibration as would the rigid boxed beam frame type saws. 
It could be that the saw is a "one of" because it needs to be dead on with little margin of error to run well.

I would not do anything with the big wheels until you get the drive worked out. Maybe you could shim it and get it running true?

Maybe a different motor with a tapered shaft would keep it strait?

Watched the video again, and I'd say for sure it is the lower end, motor side that is the problem.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I have some thin brass shim stock that I am thinking about wrapping around the shaft to see if that takes up the slop in the pulley.

I can't really run a smaller pulley on the drive shaft or it will throw off my rpms and the blade speed. 

The brain storming has been great, too bad I have to work all day tomorrow and then all evening at another house when I get back.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

I looked at the video some more. I believe it's mostly tire runout, & upper wheel balance...probably both. The jumping seems to be more vertical than side to side.

How much up & down runout did you see on the tires? If you haven't ground the tires true, it's bound to be a good part of problem. You can static balance the wheels with a shaft, & two smooth steel bars, or rods. Just snug the wheels down to shaft, & ride shaft on the two level steel bars. You need to get the balancing weights back on!

I really don't think the pulleys are the problem, but if your going to throw money at it, this is by far the best place I've found for them.
Fixed bore:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?keyword=PPP2&catname=powerTrans&PAGELEN=20&PageNo=6

Bushing type: 
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?keyword=PPT2&catname=powerTrans&PAGELEN=20&PageNo=1
They also have single, in bushing, & fixed bore sizes. 
Their belts are also extremely reasonable. 

Before you go this rout, remove one of the belts & see if it makes a differance. If not, I doubt it's the issue. 

Then next time you start her up, take a marker, or chalk, tape it to a stick, & hold it so it barely touches whell when spinning. Then add some weight to the oposite side. I had to do this on my Tanny. I added one 1/2" bolt about 3/4" long to get it smoothed out. I can now set a nickle on edge on the table when running.
Joe


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Once your done fixing it, buy this one:
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/2564905075.html
:jester:
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

That 16" pulley is only 62.00 bucks there and it has a 1 3/16" bore.

I know I have to true the tires but, I was going to save that for one of the last steps.

I have to go back through everything and check to see if there is anything else causing my vibrations. 

I think that it is going to be difficult to get it perfect due to the flex that I get from this frame. I have seen a couple video's of the old Silver's and Crescents that had a similar frame and they were a little bouncy.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Railman said:


> Once your done fixing it, buy this one:
> http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/2564905075.html
> :jester:
> Joe


there is an auction coming up soon that I am going to go to.

I am eye balling this one:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Found a little time to do a little work on this thing.

I still have not tried to true the tires or crown them yet. 

I have been trying to chase down some of these vibrations.

Another short video of my progress.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Great progress!:thumbsup:
Your dial appears to be moving about the thickness of a sheet of paper....004"+-!
How did you find heavy spots?

For the top wheel...

If I were you, I'd remove the top wheel with the shaft still on. Set up two drill rods, or whatever flat straight steel bars/rods you can come up with. You just need two flat surfaces, spaced enough for the saw wheel shaft to run on. They just need to be flat, & level. Your Herbert table might work for one side, & then use whatever else you have that you can get to the same height. Then set the wheel/shaft on the bars. It's very obvious how it works once you set the wheel on the bars. The heavy side will go to the bottom. Mark the top, & add weight there. It's trial & error, but it goes farely quick. I keep a stack of odd ball small magnets (Radio Shack set) on my 4 wheel balancer when I do my lathe cutterheads. I can get a 75# head balanced down to the weight of a 1/8" nut weight.

The only thing is, if your rubber is out of round, you need to true it up first, since rubber removal will affect your results.:whistling

Let me know if this makes sense.
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I just used trial and error on the bottom wheel. I found where the old weight was and started adding there and checking my results. 

I was just out trying to true my tire on the bottom and get a crown on it. 
I think it is pretty good now, thank goodness the new tires were pretty thick.

I got the vibration down to less then it was in the video, going to hit the bottom tire one more time and then adjust my weights again.

I am going to have my sharpener make me a new blade tomorrow, I am pretty sure the old on is thrashed.

I know what you are talking about with getting the top wheel balanced. 
My Dad said he has a strobe light thing for balancing wheels the old school way, he is going to try and find it for me.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Balancing a wheel with a strobe light? Never heard of doing that. Checking RPM, all day long.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Balancing a wheel with a strobe light? Never heard of doing that. Checking RPM, all day long.


Kind of like this, only smaller. I think dad's is from the late 70's or early 80's. 

http://www.hunter.co.hu/pdf/finish_balancer.pdf


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Seems like a bit overkill for your situation. Might work. Your wheel might be to lightweight for it to work.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Here is one:

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=7443.0


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

An advertisement for them: http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/wheel-balancing.htm


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

don't you have a strobe in your bedroom?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Those lights are for growing things Tom/


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## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

I would think you'd be better off with something like this Darcy. I'm sure you could find someone local with one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MINI...tive_Tools&hash=item2c5e8d6ba6#ht_1443wt_1167


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

This is similar to what I was talking about above. It is actually much more sensitive than the ball bearing support bearing method. The issue with knife edge balancing is the trueness of the support surface, but with a 1 3/16" shaft it will be easy to get good results on less than perfect edge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTE44_whSPc&feature=related

Another easy to replicate version:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1K3o_kXBiqQ&NR=1 


A bubble balancer will be better than nothing, but is not sensitive enough for what Darcy needs.

Here is one similar to what I built to balance my lathe heads. They are very sensitive!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbsGGSjmpko&feature=related
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I will have to find a chunk of cold roll at my buddy's shop to do the top wheel.

I could easily set the bottom wheel/axle/drive pulley on something like that though.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Warner,
I guess I don't get why you can't use the existing shafts to balance. If that's the case, you can get by with a smooth piece of tubing (EMT? ) with the appropriate number of tape wraps. It's not perfect, but I've done it more than a few times with good results. You don't need to use the set screws. Just tape it till it's snug.
Joe


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Railman said:


> Warner,
> I guess I don't get why you can't use the existing shafts to balance. If that's the case, you can get by with a smooth piece of tubing (EMT? ) with the appropriate number of tape wraps. It's not perfect, but I've done it more than a few times with good results. You don't need to use the set screws. Just tape it till it's snug.
> Joe


There is no problem doing it with the lower wheel but, the top hub assembly is a bit different then most old band saws I have seen. I can take a picture of the top set up later today.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Railman said:


> I really don't think the pulleys are the problem, but if your going to throw money at it, this is by far the best place I've found for them.
> 
> http://www.surpluscenter.com
> 
> B


I am back to this one for a little bit.....:whistling

I found an old, oiled bearing Century 3ph motor for this saw.

I had to get a different pulley for the motor. Every where was like 75 bucks. I remembered this thread and Joe's link.

The pulley I needed was 50 bucks shipped, too bad it took them 3 days to get it to ups.

I also picked up 2 new blades for it, a 1/4" and a 3/4" blade.

I just need to find a size 0 manual starter for it, make up a new mount for the motor, get new belts, find a good spot for it, run my power to it, man I thought I was getting close.:laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

That's the way things go sometimes , I have not had the time to get back on to The Arn. .....roll with it D, no sence rushing....there is always something else on the list that needs to be addressed....:laughing:

Man,

I know the feeling.......Patience ......:whistling

It's all good......:thumbsup:


B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Well, I have done quite a bit to this thing in the last few months.

I dug through my pulley stash and found one's that would work for the speed I needed.

Installed 2 new pulley's, the large one on the lower axle was whopped out and causing most of my vibrations.

Added more weight to the top wheel, finished the left hand guard and a few other odds and ends. 

There is very little vibration and I am not sure messing with it any more will really help out that much.

Here she is, the unknown BS from the 1870's:


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

That's really nice. What a pleasure to have that much throat depth.

You better hope the blade never comes off. I don't see any guards.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

katoman said:


> That's really nice. What a pleasure to have that much throat depth.
> 
> You better hope the blade never comes off. I don't see any guards.


There is a guard on the left side....:whistling

I need to make something for the riser, but that will be it.

I am not going to cover the wheels, plus there is no way to really mount anything to the frame on this thing.

I broke the crappy blade that came with it, all it did was fall off.

It is not that big, only 24" of throat there.

I am looking for a 30"-36" BS to do my resawing with.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

When you find the 30" saw, can I have that one ? :whistling


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I am looking for a 30"-36" BS to do my resawing with.



I'll keep that little reminder statement in the back of my mind........ Only problem I see is you want something that's beet to all hell.......$$$$$$$$$$:laughing:

I faintly can see a Kapex to the left, looks like your doing some electrical with the round blue rec box,-if that makes any sense..:blink::laughing:

Don't know what that red disk thing is sitting on the chair, ...and what's up with that pulley.....:laughing:



B,:thumbsup:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

katoman said:


> When you find the 30" saw, can I have that one ? :whistling



And YOU!...........:laughing:

What the heck happened to your Henry.......:whistling :laughing:



B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> I'll keep that little reminder statement in the back of my mind........ Only problem I see is you want something that's beet to all hell.......$$$$$$$$$$:laughing:
> 
> I faintly can see a Kapex to the left, looks like your doing some electrical with the round blue rec box,-if that makes any sense..:blink::laughing:
> 
> ...


I think that was just a good spot to lay that remodel box.
That is a 100' tape on the stool and the pulley was the one that I was using when I had a 16" pulley on the lower axle.

:laughing:


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

> That's really nice. What a pleasure to have that much throat depth.


Yeah she's got a nice deep throat on her. :thumbsup:

That table would make a great cutting board.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Inner10 said:


> Yeah she's got a nice deep throat on her. :thumbsup:
> 
> That table would make a great cutting board.


Ironically, I made a few cutting boards when I was putting the table together. Great christmas presents that take like 15 minutes to glue up.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I am going to have to resaw some 8/4 poplar tomorrow so I made up a quick resaw fence. 
Just need to put my resaw blade on, clamp the fence down and let the 3hp Century go to work.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

What's the black stuff on the fence?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> What's the black stuff on the fence?


Some Formica I had laying around.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That'll make a nice fence. TiteBond II, my favorite.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> That'll make a nice fence. TiteBond II, my favorite.


I went through a little bit of that TBII yesterday gluing up posts for my girls bunk bed. 

I thought it will work out pretty good, put a coat of wax on it and I should be able to accomplish re-sawing the 8/4 x 10" poplar tomorrow.

I bought too much 8/4, but I got a deal on it. S&B 8/4 for 1.45bf.:whistling The small stack of 5/4 was more then that.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Well now you might have a place to store it.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Well now you might have a place to store it.


More like hoard it....


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

PrestigeR&D said:


> And YOU!...........:laughing:
> 
> What the heck happened to your Henry.......:whistling :laughing:
> 
> ...


Hey, better late than never. I fixed my Henry with crazy glue. Honest. I tried the JB weld and it wouldn't hold. Go figure eh ?


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