# Home made wood fitting bin project



## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

I'm redoing my fitting bins in my truck...again. I thought I would post how I'm doing it.

My truck is a Spartan cube van and the factory shelving allows me to make a bin 22" deep. It's a 12' cube van and has exterior boxes on it so I only have two shelves on each side.

The bins are 22" X 22" and as of now they will be about 5" deep. Equally divided I end up with 16 spaces in each box, enough to keep everything I need for water distribution piping in all the materials. I'm also making boxes for my black iron fittings and galvanized.

I have wood working equipment so it makes sense to just build it myself in the shop. 
*Materials​*
For materials I decided to use 1/2" plywood. The type of plywood is called Auraco Radiata and it seemed like pretty decent stuff at $23 a sheet. I bought it at the local lumber yard that's been around for over a hundred years. They were happy to cut it into pieces for me so I didn't have to deal with 4 x 8 sheets by myself on the table saw. I bought enough for 16 boxes but I only need about 12. I had them cut sheets up in 5" strips then I sanded the strips with a sheet sander in 120 grit then 220 grit. I also had them cut bottoms for me and they
are 24" x 24" that I can trim later.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

For cutting the 5" wide by 8' long strips I clamped a chunk of phenolic the the work table and clamped the saw down as well.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

I did some research online about how to build box joints. Since I have a dato blade set it seemed like the perfect way to connect the joints considering all the weight in each bin. A box joint has a lot of gluing surface so it should be pretty decent.

For the jig I had some scrap Oak from a previous project. Using bolts and counter sinking them on the face it allowed me to fine tune the jig. Here is the jig and a sample joint. Now I'm confident it's good.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

After the joint seemed like it was good I got a little nervous about how this box is gonna go together. I need to sit down and figure this out tonight when the kids go to bed.

I figured the bottom should be dadoed in instead of face nailed/glued. This can get me into some real trouble though. I have never made a project like this so I could end up with a disaster on my hands If I can't get everything in the puzzle together.

After some thinking I decided to run all my side pieces through the dado blade. I shimmed the blades an extra .030 to allow for moisture issues and warped plywood if it gets cupped.

Here are all the side pieces. This is as far as I got today.

I'm getting a little nervous about how the hell I'm gonna make all these joints line up.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

You'll soon see why you're a Plumber & not a Carpenter.:whistling:laughing::laughing:

Take your time.
You will be just fine.:thumbsup:


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Yeah you could be right about that. I'm posting this stuff live as I do it so if I make any mistakes you will definitely see it.

The joints have me concerned Griz. I think I made them way to tight on the sample. I just tried to apply glue and it's a no-go. I just re-adjusted my jig and added about .10 to the fingers in the joint.

I think what I'm gonna do is run half the pieces all at once, basically two opposite sides of each box and they will be the same. Then I'll build each box one at a time.

Once that is done I need to run 3 dadoes on each piece for dividers. Man this is getting confusing. Once I have the 3 dadoes in each piece I somehow have to figure out the center dividers and dado them accurately enough so that they all line up with the sides. I guess I'll just take it one step at a time.

I'm starting to wonder how heavy these are going to be when they are filled with copper. So far these are the boxes I have in mind, each one is dedicated to each type of material and each type of size.

*One bin for each*

1/2" copper
3/4" copper
1" copper
1 1/4" copper

1/2" CPVC
3/4" CPVC
1" CPVC
1 1/4" CPVC

Pex fittings
Galvanized fittings
Black iron fittings

If I don't screw it up I may make more for other items on the truck. This will make mobilizing on a job easier and also doing inventory etc.

When this is done I have to make some type of pull-out for each of these to fit in........I don't even want to think of that right now.

Mike


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Looks nice already, Mike, but I gotta ask, why not just go to American Van Equipment and buy bins? Of course, I hate woodworking/trim stuff. I'd take plumbing any day!


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

Lookin good mike!:thumbup: I can't wait to see the finished product.


Dave


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

OK, WTF is a plumber doing with woodworking equipment first of all?

Secondly, WTF is a woodworking plumber doing with a shop that's finished nicer than a sauna at a 5 star health club?:blink:

You are living the good life my brother.:thumbup:


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

Well, you've got 4 extra drawers to practice on!! Way to buck up and give her he.. heck!


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

The box jointery looks nice.

Did you center your dado for the bottom on a finger? It is difficult to tell from here.

If you did, the dado will be hidden in one direction but will still be visible on the other. That would be ideal. Then you can choose if it shows on the side or the face of the bin.

If you didn't, you will find out what azz looks like. You will have partial dados on both the face and the sides. You will need to adjust your start point so that you center the dado on a finger and deal with the partial pieces at the top and bottom. Of coarse you could adj the height of the box so there is a full joint at the top. Or you could rip the dado off and do it over with a shorter box.

Still looks good no matter. 

And I'm with Riz, WTF is with a plumber and all those stationary tools?:laughing:


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Gus Dering said:


> The box jointery looks nice.
> 
> Did you center your dado for the bottom on a finger? It is difficult to tell from here.
> 
> ...


Oh man, I'm in the shop now and I screwed up on a couple things. Fortunately I have some extra boxes.

I did center the dado, but it was by accident, it just happened to work out because I figured with 1/2" ply the dado I figured would be half so the 1/4" lands on a finger......I got lucky on that one but that's good to know for the future.

It's hard to make sure the right side goes with the corresponding side then flip it for the other side. I think what saved me was the fact that I ran the dado first so I can tell the inside from the outside. I ended up labeling each corner A B C & D to keep my head from spinning.

I Have 4 done boxes right now and I took some photos that I'll post in a little bit. I'm getting stressed over this so I'm gonna pull the pin early I think. Tomorrow is a new day and I only have one small plumbing job in the morning.

As far as the tools, oh boy, long story. I used to have a small company making custom longbows and recurves. I don't do that any more and haven't for a long time. I'll take a photo of one of my bows tonoht and show you what I'm talking about. It was more for fun though, God forbid I would make any money doing it, just breathed in a ton of fiberglass.

Mike


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

It seems that you just need a pile of sides and a pile of fronts and backs. Start one pile with a finger and the other with a dado. (Depending on which way you want the little dado to show.) Start both from the bottom and work to the top. It is good you did the dado first so you always have the dado towards the first pass.

The easy way is hard enough, right?


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Thanks Gus, thats exactly what I did your advice is right on the money. Doing this for the first time is pretty nerve wracking.

Here is what I did tonight.

Like Gus said I really only have two types of sides. It took some thinking but I ended up making a stack of one type and putting a big "X" in pencil on it so I did screw it up.

Once I made the first type with the finger on the bottom I figured why even think about it any further, what I mean is how much different can I make it? So I was pretty confident and decided after the first one looked good to just divide the stack up in half and run all of them.....well, half anyhow, but all of the one type. See photos below.

Below are three photos; a photo of the inside, the outside, and the stack of ONLY this type of side.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Once this was done I inspected the pieces in the stack and they are all 100% alike in size.

I discovered that in order to complete the other two parts (male vs female) I needed the previous parts to mate up to the create the mating piece. 

I ran a sample and it looked like the photos which show a better description than I can explain in writing.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Finally I was able to run a few sides and come up with a few boxes before I called it quits for the night. The next step for me is to finish the stack and pray I don't make any mistakes. After that I'm gonna dado each piece three times. I have no clue how I will get all these to line up, I may just slowly run it on the fence and do one dado of one type at a time and do the whole stack 3 times.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

A.T.C. said:


> Looks nice already, Mike, but I gotta ask, why not just go to American Van Equipment and buy bins? Of course, I hate woodworking/trim stuff. I'd take plumbing any day!


I did look at them but they just don't make the sizes and quantity per bin that I need. The way I'm doing it allows me to maximize the space in the truck. I really didn't want to make these but after searching high and low I just didn't like what my option were. Making them myself I can also customize each bin based on the size of the fitting and the quantity of the fittings I need to stock in the truck. 

An example would be 1/2" coper 90's vs 1/2" copper street 45's. I need to keep a minimum of 100 on my truck at all times but the street 45's not so much. The funny thing is the boxes are almost too big, each compartment (if I keep each one equally spaced) will hold over 100 square inches of storage, 106.9 to be exact. That's really way more room than I need.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Alright, looking good.:thumbsup:

Now if I understand you right, you want to create 3 equally spaced dados on the fronts and backs or the sides to break the box in thirds.

But you maybe doing it on all sides and creating 9 cubbies. I'm not sure but the procedure for the dados will be the same.

Laying out where those dados go should be straight forward with a tape, pencil and square. Then use your miter gauge and a stop block clamped to your fence to register the end of the work piece in position. Then when you start sliding it towards the blade it clears the stop block and you just hold it in position with hand pressure. It is not safe to trap the part with the fence on such a narrow part. 

You can flip the part around and get the two outside dados with one set up. 

Then test the center set up by spinning the part around and making another pass. If you cross cut the parts accurately you should be able to hone in on a fairly accurate set up.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Thanks, good advice Gus

I was thinking, I pretty much have to run it straight through the part. When the bottom is attached and you flip the box upside down the dados will be empty and visible. I guess it doesn't matter though. The last thing I want to do is try and attempt a partial dado and stop it at the bottom dado, i'd screw thatu p for sure.:laughing:


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Well if you want to stop dado the partitions you would do a similar set up with a table mounted router and a another stop block to seize the operation when the bit enters your dado. That block should be longer so you can't twist your part when you hit it. A rabbet at the bottom of it so dust will clear is a must. Then roll the part towards the stop block to remove it safely. Mark the block with a sharpie pen where the bit is for safe measure.

You could use the plastic laminate top to the right of your cabinet saw to mount it and use your table saw fence.

You just have to set up three times instead of two because you can't spin the part around. I's a little slower and a lot louder, you probably won't have the luxury of dust collection but it is doable. You can do it.

I'll support you either way :laughing:


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Thanks Gus, I think I understand what your saying. I need time to absorb this.:laughing:


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Wow Mike that looks like a lot of work, I would have just butted the ends together, slaped on some glue, tacked it and ran a few screws...but I ain't a cabinet maker either. :thumbup:


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Hey man, me either. I'm not even a pimple on the a$$ of a cabinet maker. It's more of a challenge/fun project for me. I'm way out of my element here and I know that but I'm willing to try. If one day one of my two sons want to be a plumber the boxes might actually be around and still solid. 

If I had to do this again I would do a sliding dovetail corner on my shaper. 

We'll see how this goes yet today, I'm not out of the woods yet. I can make one more mistake and after that I'll be ruining the ones I actually need. I have a long ways to go in this project.

Mike


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

You are doing fine.

Consider this;

After the box is together you could drill a hole down through the top of the box joint and send a dowel in there. Then you would have a very difficult time pulling the joint apart after you load them up with all your nipples and cocks.:thumbsup:

Leo mentioned the glue I would use too. Titebond Extend. It has a longer open time that you will need.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Yeah I'm gonna take both of your advice and get the glue you recommended. 

I'm confused about the dowel though. Where would it go?

Mike


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## bhock (Feb 17, 2009)

I hope this is easy enough to understand, the dowel will basically lock the corners. drill down through center of the fingers, insert dowel.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Holy crap is that a great idea, now I got what you guys are saying, that would be strong. What diameter would be good to use for 1/2" plywood?


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

Inner10 said:


> Wow Mike that looks like a lot of work, I would have just butted the ends together, slaped on some glue, tacked it and ran a few screws...but I ain't a cabinet maker either. :thumbup:


I'm even worse, I would have used 1/8" aluminum sheet and welded it.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

> I'm even worse, I would have used 1/8" aluminum sheet and welded it.


In actual fact I would have bought all the wood and tools, then attempted on drawer, then given up and left another project unfinished. Then I would have spent a few K on some ABS boxes. :laughing:

If its not made of wire or strut I'm kinda useless.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Mike's Plumbing said:


> Holy crap is that a great idea, now I got what you guys are saying, that would be strong. What diameter would be good to use for 1/2" plywood?


1/2" is way too big, your material is that thick. 1/4" would be max. 1/8" steel or something would work too. Even a 20D nail in the proper sized hole would do the trick.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Just an update. I was able to finish all the sides and I remade the ones I screwed up. Each bin is stacked and labeled accordingly.

When I got done with that I decided to do a glue up and see what happens. This was possible one of the shi#&#[email protected] experiences of my life. Glue oozed everywhere, all over my shirt, all over the table saw, all over the wood bin......and to top things off when I got it together I realized I had the bottom in upside down. It was too late because I used some finishing nails on the corners instead of clamps. 

Anyhow, I need to come up with a better game plan for the glue up procedure.

Below is a picture of the sides assembled for the prototype and 3 dividers. After the photo I cut and glued in the rest of the pieces. When that dries I'll post the photo of what the final bin looks like. I plan on painting them red to match my other bins.

Mike


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Mike's Plumbing said:


> This was possible one of the shi#&#[email protected] experiences of my life.


That's hilarious!! You know, 'cause you're a plumber!! Sorry, I couldn't resist. So, do we get to see pics of the service rig when you're all done? I'd love it if you could.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Sure, I'm going full blown rip it all apart project. I think I can improve on my efficiency even more with my new ideas I got cooking.

Wih the current bin project I need to make them pull out somehow, if anybody has any ideas please let me know. I need to be able to drive around and not have them slide out and dump all over the place, but still be able to pull it out and grab fittings quickly.

Mike


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Here is my prototype all complete. I sanded every sharp edge of the bin with my sheet sander. On all the inside corners I pressed real hard and rounded them pretty good. On the next one I'm gonna try and use my router and see how that goes.

In the photo the box looks a little curved, I'm not sure why because the box is dead nuts perfect.

All that's left is to throw some red paint on it.

Mike


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Looks real good for a plumber Mike. :thumbup:


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## bhock (Feb 17, 2009)

Looks good Mike.


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## SAW.co (Jan 2, 2011)

PLUMBER AND A CARPENTOR:clap::clap:MY HERO:scooter:


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Wanna come out to Cali and build some shop bins?:laughing:


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## jarvis design (May 6, 2008)

Those are some damn fine shelves! You could build bins out of 1/2" Baltic birch and attach a rare earth magnet on the back with a steel washer on the back of your shelf unit. Wouldn't want big ones though...maybe 1/4-3/8. They are ridiculously strong


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

jarvis design said:


> Those are some damn fine shelves! You could build bins out of 1/2" Baltic birch and attach a rare earth magnet on the back with a steel washer on the back of your shelf unit. Wouldn't want big ones though...maybe 1/4-3/8. They are ridiculously strong


That's actually a good idea. When I get to that stage I'm gonna remember that and see if I can get that to work.:thumbsup:


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

Nice woodworking skills! Nice table saw! Have you thought about incorporating this into the biz in any way?


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Thanks for the kind words. The boxes look better in the photos than they do in person. Even though they aren't perfect I figure they should last pretty long. 

I don't do much wood working anymore because of having 3 kids, a business, and an economy that keeps me on my toes. I like it though, if I had to stop plumbing I think I would try and learn cabinet making. I think I would enjoy that.

Mike


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Great job Mike, you're a much better carpenter than I am a plumber. :thumbsup:

I got a chuckle as I just did a project recently that looks _very_ similar. This was 40" x 27" 



















Of course, my project's goals were a bit loftier than yours...



















:laughing:

The box was for one of the county nature parks where they are teaching the kids about fishing in GA


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I think your doing a good job mike, not bad..not bad at all. They are storage bins, not a piece of furniture- Looks good and once you install the dowel, you will have a great rigid joint!:thumbsup: 


B,


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

J F said:


> Great job Mike, you're a much better carpenter than I am a plumber. :thumbsup:
> 
> I got a chuckle as I just did a project recently that looks _very_ similar. This was 40" x 27"
> 
> ...


Hey that's really cool. I have a kreg jig but never really used it. It looks to me like that's what you did. It's amazing how tight it sucks up the joint and when you sand it the joint is pretty much invisible. 

I'll go take some pictures of the bows I use to make. You may find it interesting.

Mike


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

It was asked why I have wood working equipment because I'm a plumber. Here is what I use to build. I no longer do this and this photo I just took minutes ago on my deck. This is the last bow I built.

This was named the "super 64" by a customer that bought this model from me and took it to Colorado and shot an Elk. The bow is a a reflex/deflex longbow and the limbs are cherry. The cherry was custom tapered by me on a custom machine that I build using mills and lathes. The machine was capable of producing tapered bow laminations that tapered .002 per inch and could hold this tolerance within .0005 in 3'. The riser (handle) was made from AAA exhibition grade Coco-bolo. The tapered stripes in the riser were custom made on a different machine that I had custom made a long time ago.

I designed the bow for me specifically to fit my hand like a glove. It's 60 pounds at 28" and the bottom limb is 3/8" longer than the top because I snap shoot with 3 fingers under instead of split style.


Mike


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Here are 3 more. Boy, this is really bringing me back some memories. I taught myself everything about bow building, this was back before Youtube, forums, and all the online information that killed the craft. I miss those days.

If you click on the photos they should get bigger If I did this right.


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## bhock (Feb 17, 2009)

That my friend is a true work of art!
You are an artist no doubt.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

bhock said:


> That my friend is a true work of art!
> You are an artist no doubt.


You forgot the word "starving":laughing:

It was very fun being involved with the archery community but to make a living at it is almost impossible. That bow would retail for about $800 in todays dollars. By the time you subtract materials you realize what they mean by the expression "starving artist".

I also dabble in custom knives.............that's another story all together.:laughing:


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Wow :blink: Nice stuff Mike. And yes I used kreg pocket holes (_with _glue :laughing.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

BTW: What's with the fish? You just know I was gonna ask that right? :laughing:


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

nice job mike!


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

They turned out real nice mike! Can't wait to see the pics of them in use!


Dave


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Sweet.:thumbsup:

You need no more help, just do it.:laughing:


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

I do have one question for you guys.

I was gonna paint them red because everything else is in the truck. It's messy and sticky to do this with enamel and a brush and the drying time kinda sucks.

If I didn't care about color or finish and just wanted some protection what is the best and easiest coating that's quick? I was thinking about linseed oil and just wipe it down. Anybody have opinions on this?

Mike


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Mike's Plumbing said:


> BTW: What's with the fish? You just know I was gonna ask that right? :laughing:





J F said:


> The box was for one of the county nature parks where they are teaching the kids about fishing in GA


The park will be filling the box with stuffed versions of different fish here in GA as a learning tool...wonder what the catfish will look like. :laughing:

As far as your finish, ya got me. An epoxy type (think bar top) would be tough as hell, but not real quick to apply. I used minwax (yeah, I know) polycrylic satin poly, a water based product for the "fish box", and I did brush it on as I didn't feel like setting the hvlp up.

You may want to get a couple of cans of spray poly, either solvent or water based. You won't get a great finish, but it will be pretty quick to put a few coats on and it's not like this is one of your bows.


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

If you are looking for something just for a little protection. Like JF said the minwax polycrylic is an option. It dries real quick and almost has no smell. The spray cans would be the way to go, brushing the cubes would be a pita. Heck I would probly just leave them like they were:laughing: 


Dave


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## FramingPro (Jan 31, 2010)

:notworthy:notworthy wow, good job. I made similar boxes




with nails and OSB:laughing:


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## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

Those bows are sweet, Mike!

Where's the pics of the knives?


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

shanekw1 said:


> Those bows are sweet, Mike!
> 
> Where's the pics of the knives?


I can take some photos if you like but it's nothing fancy, I'm into primitive knives made with brass pommels and elk tine handles....kinda Daniel Boonish if you know what I mean.

Mike


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## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

Those are looking good. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

Mike's Plumbing said:


> I can take some photos if you like but it's nothing fancy, I'm into primitive knives made with brass pommels and elk tine handles....kinda Daniel Boonish if you know what I mean.
> 
> Mike


Put a couple up.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

RhodesHardwood said:


> Those are looking good. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


Hey, I fixed the whole "glue up mess" issue.

I was able to glue 4 boxes together today but then had to do some service work and next thing I know the day was over. What I did was take 2" painters tape and put it on all the ends on both sides. I then took an acid brush and brushed like crazy all over the ends. I assemble it on it's side and the tape sticks together trapping the glue just in the corners and keeping it covered extends the drying time. 

I simple tear off the tape at each corner, nail the fingers and wipe the glue with a wet rag. It works pretty slick so far at least.

Mike


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

shanekw1 said:


> Put a couple up.


Ok, but I'm warning you it's not as nice as my bows. I'll take some photos tomorrow sometime, I'm feeling to lazy too take them right now.:laughing:

Mike


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

Mike's Plumbing said:


> For cutting the 5" wide by 8' long strips I clamped a chunk of phenolic the the work table and clamped the saw down as well.











Mike, the plumber in you gave it away:laughing:....CT adapters for the dust collection, genius!:thumbup:


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