# Laticrete Hydra Barrier / Hydra Ban



## oldschoolcq (Jul 8, 2016)

Doing a little research on Laticrete Hydra Barrier / Hydra Ban. From what I am given to understand the biggest distinction between these two products is that "Ban" does not require mesh embedment while Barrier does require it. Both products will replace the requirement of using a 40mil vinyl liner but as with all products such as these that warranty precludes using all their product line (drain:$100, mortar: $40 per 30# etc) which is prohibitively expensive.

Here is the biggest question I have thus far. Because the liquid liner is flexible I do not have to worry about the floor / wall expansion? What if I use the Hydra Barrier (which I lean towards) and its associated mesh at the wall / floor junction.

Also. I did a tile shower above the tub in our other bath and grouted at the tub junction. What is the worst that can happen? Is it worth tedious removal and then caulking? (Its been four years w/ no issues) :blink:


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## Krok (Jul 9, 2016)

Why not just hot mop it like always has been done?


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

Krok said:


> Why not just hot mop it like always has been done?


Hot mop is a local SoCal only thing. Most of the nation has never seen one.


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## Stevarino (Sep 28, 2013)

Two words ...Schluter System


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Jul 15, 2016)

There will always be differential movement between floors and walls and it will manifest at the juncture, so there should always be a modicum (or more) of concern at these areas. Typically, membranes such as HYDRO BAN or HYDRO BARRIER will handle up to 1/8” of movement. As far as using the mesh with HYDRO BARRIER (or HYDRO BAN), some people are just more comfortable using the mesh at critical areas (changes of plane, board joints, penetrations, etc…).

For the existing tub surround, the worst that can happen is that differential movement of the wall and the tub can cause the joint at the junction to crack. IF a crack does occur then water can get behind the system. A flexible sealant (e.g. LATASIL) at the junction can handle much more movement without cracking or delaminating. Thereby preventing water from penetrating through the system. If there have been no problems in the past 4 years then you can probably feel pretty good that nothing will happen.


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## oldschoolcq (Jul 8, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> There will always be differential movement between floors and walls and it will manifest at the juncture, so there should always be a modicum (or more) of concern at these areas. Typically, membranes such as HYDRO BAN or HYDRO BARRIER will handle up to 1/8” of movement. As far as using the mesh with HYDRO BARRIER (or HYDRO BAN), some people are just more comfortable using the mesh at critical areas (changes of plane, board joints, penetrations, etc…).
> 
> For the existing tub surround, the worst that can happen is that differential movement of the wall and the tub can cause the joint at the junction to crack. IF a crack does occur then water can get behind the system. A flexible sealant (e.g. LATASIL) at the junction can handle much more movement without cracking or delaminating. Thereby preventing water from penetrating through the system. If there have been no problems in the past 4 years then you can probably feel pretty good that nothing will happen.


...thank you [email protected]! yes I think I am in the mesh "school" too. From what you say tho, I do not then need to thin set at the shower corners. Only barrier and mesh. I also have a window sill in the shower and will use hydra barrier on it instead of 40 mil sheet goods.


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## oldschoolcq (Jul 8, 2016)

Stevarino said:


> Two words ...Schluter System
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


four words: way too much moola


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Krok said:


> Why not just hot mop it like always has been done?


Never seen a hop mop.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Stevarino said:


> Two words ...Schluter System
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah super expensive and you get overlap on all your corners and seams.

I like Kerdi Pans and Curbs as well as Ditra, but that's were it stops. I was thinking Wedi but then landed on Denshield with a sealant between the sheets and a quick couple of coats of roll on water proofing on the seams. Cheaper, quicker and no overlap and thinset to float out or flimsy foam board.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

oldschoolcq said:


> ...thank you [email protected]! yes I think I am in the mesh "school" too. From what you say tho, I do not then need to thin set at the shower corners. Only barrier and mesh. I also have a window sill in the shower and will use hydra barrier on it instead of 40 mil sheet goods.


I fibafuse corners and seams.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

oldschoolcq said:


> four words: way too much moola


Less than $500 for pan, curb, drain, walls, and thinset. Plus it's all passed on to the client. It's also a labor saver. So what you spend on material is more than made up with the savings on time.


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## oldschoolcq (Jul 8, 2016)

Yea/ wish they had Denshield in my area. That was what I landed on too but Id have to drive two hours ..


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

oldschoolcq said:


> Yea/ wish they had Denshield in my area. That was what I landed on too but Id have to drive two hours ..


Where are you at?


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## oldschoolcq (Jul 8, 2016)

Monterey CA


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

oldschoolcq said:


> Monterey CA


Salinas has a ProSource. They may be able to get it for you.


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

ProSource or Probuild?


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ProSource


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Yeah super expensive and you get overlap on all your corners and seams.
> 
> I like Kerdi Pans and Curbs as well as Ditra, but that's were it stops. I was thinking Wedi but then landed on Denshield with a sealant between the sheets and a quick couple of coats of roll on water proofing on the seams. Cheaper, quicker and no overlap and thinset to float out or flimsy foam board.


What sealant are you using?? I tried Sika 1A, but that takes 3 days to cure.


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## [email protected] (Jul 15, 2016)

oldschoolcq said:


> ...thank you [email protected]! yes I think I am in the mesh "school" too. From what you say tho, I do not then need to thin set at the shower corners. Only barrier and mesh. I also have a window sill in the shower and will use hydra barrier on it instead of 40 mil sheet goods.


The board should be installed per manufacturer’s installation instructions, so thin-set with the 2” wide fiberglass mesh tape and thin-set would be required for those areas. Once the thin-set has hardened then the installation of the HYDRO BARRIER can begin.


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