# Corner prices for drywall



## Norrrrrrrrrrrrm (Jan 20, 2007)

Hello everybody,
I am doing a fairly large remodel drywall job and I am losing my shirt. When i bid the job I only bid on sq. footage. I did not take into consideration of all the inside/outside corners(wayyy too many) and they are taking up too much time. Also the windows, doors(arch) and outlets that need to be cut around. My question is, what are the prices for the misc. work as mentioned above? I tried searching the archives but no luck. Hopefully your help will put some clothes on my back. You lose some and you win some! :wallbash: Thanks, Norm


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## LennyV-NHSNOLA (Nov 22, 2006)

My tape/float/finish guy always counts up all of the corners, butt joints, windows, etc. They take a lot longer than taping regular joints. I never have asked him to break it down for me. Maybe I should.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I would figure around 25 a corner


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Frankawitz said:


> I would figure around 25 a corner


wall to ceiling counted as a corner?

Or are ya talking about where the walls meet the ceiling in a corner?


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I was talking corner bead not inside corners of the rooms, come on that's part of every drywall job, I thought he was talking about installing corner bead and what to charge, if he feels there are to many corner he should find another job, cause if you can't do corners your up a creek.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> come on that's part of every drywall job,


And outside corners are not?? Sorry if sometimes I ask for clarification.


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## Norrrrrrrrrrrrm (Jan 20, 2007)

I was mostly talking outside corners and windows. This house is over 100 years old. Intead of your basic four corners in a room, there are lots of corners and funky angles that have been added over the years from are added pantries, closets, ect. which have small sq footage but loads of detail. Frankawitz, I don't need another job, just want to get my numbers in order. :clap:Thanks for your input so far, I apreciate the help.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Sorry Norm, I went back and reread your original post. It was quite clear what you were referring to. I 'm glad you asked about this. Something I have not really thought about.


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

We don't use a specific formula. 
We factor the following:

1.) How many days= How much we want to make a day per person, pay for each worker ...add cost of materials, gas, any other incidentals.
Factor in the extra time it will take for any complications (Example - alot of corners, high ceilings, cathedrals, etc...)
This all equals out to a price.

2.) Figure out the actual SF price as well.

Take both the figures above and compare them. See how far off they are...and that is your extra for all the corner bead. 

This is the way we have been doing it for 22 years and the system works. Tho, we at times will thro another amount on top of the end figure just to really cover ourselves if there is ALOT of 'extras'.


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## Drywall1 (Dec 12, 2005)

Well if you have started the job already looks like your up the aformentioned "creek". If you have not started the job yet you still have a chance of not loosing your shirt. Ive been in both places before. You will never forget the jobs where you lost the most money. Remodels are the toughest jobs to bid. 2 years ago I about walked in the middle of a commercial remodel. (Large nursing home with new owners) Architect was good at adding work after the final print was done and didn't think it should cost more. When I finally put my foot down they thought it would be ok to pay for extras.

Good luck
Nate


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## Walldoctr (Feb 6, 2007)

*Before not After*

Sorry Dude,
These are things you need to determine before you sign the job. I normally figure a box of bead should be normal for one average sized house. Anything over that I add more to the contract.
Here is something I am sure will get some negative feedback but I have had great luck with it.
About two years ago, one of my builders insisted that I use the Paper-Faced bead. My men didn't want to use it, I didn't want to use it, but the builder said if I didn't, he would find another contractor.
He always paid well so I decided to try it out. 
It turns out my men will never go back to nail-on bead. I save approx. 25 gallons of compound in a one and a half box-of-bead house and I have never had a call back. It's very easy to install and coat.
There is a tool that fits on an anglebox or mudrunner and another thing called a hopper for those that don't use ames tools. You use the roller to press it on straight and wipe the mud out.

What do you have to lose.
~Bill


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## theworx (Dec 20, 2005)

We use paper tape on beads only. As mentioned, with the right tools they go on fast and are more durable than clinch on beads. We charge 25 cents a lin/foot to supply and 25 cents a lin/foot to finish (outside corners do use a lot of mud in most cases)...


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

Walldoctr said:


> Sorry Dude,
> These are things you need to determine before you sign the job. I normally figure a box of bead should be normal for one average sized house. Anything over that I add more to the contract.
> Here is something I am sure will get some negative feedback but I have had great luck with it.
> About two years ago, one of my builders insisted that I use the Paper-Faced bead. My men didn't want to use it, I didn't want to use it, but the builder said if I didn't, he would find another contractor.
> ...


...interesting....We have used it, but not for entire jobs.....you got me thinking....


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## Norrrrrrrrrrrrm (Jan 20, 2007)

I went ahead and bought some paper bead the other day and it is really fast and easy! If you put it on right you only need two coats. It is so nice to work with.:clap: This has been a good thread, I think alot of people are getting some good know-how. Thanks everybody.


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## raven2006 (Dec 19, 2006)

I do mostly residential small jobs (about 1500 - 2000 sq ft) and my prices start at 75 cent sq. ft of drywall and $1 a foot for beads. This includes supplies. The price will go up if the drywall is poorly installed, there are lots of repairs or walls need to be fixed. I think you should always charge per foot for beads because it does take a little longer to put them on properly especially if there is alot of cutting and fitting. Plus they take a little more mud to finish.


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## hrscammisa (Mar 9, 2007)

what metal I agree paper is the only way


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## drywallet (Feb 26, 2007)

It seems that every thing we do now around here is round bull nose, and chamfer bead, at least in the residential side. Commercial uses square most of the time. If you get a chance to see the chamfer bead check it out.


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## platinum24 (Mar 14, 2007)

*anyone looking to hire sub for the year*



Norrrrrrrrrrrrm said:


> Hello everybody,
> I am doing a fairly large remodel drywall job and I am losing my shirt. When i bid the job I only bid on sq. footage. I did not take into consideration of all the inside/outside corners(wayyy too many) and they are taking up too much time. Also the windows, doors(arch) and outlets that need to be cut around. My question is, what are the prices for the misc. work as mentioned above? I tried searching the archives but no luck. Hopefully your help will put some clothes on my back. You lose some and you win some! :wallbash: Thanks, Norm


im longing to catch on with a contractor for the entire yr i got a crew of 5 including myself with insurance roofs, siding, drywall, all remodeling keith cushenberry 724 314 3179


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## platinum24 (Mar 14, 2007)

*looking to sub*



Norrrrrrrrrrrrm said:


> I went ahead and bought some paper bead the other day and it is really fast and easy! If you put it on right you only need two coats. It is so nice to work with.:clap: This has been a good thread, I think alot of people are getting some good know-how. Thanks everybody.


is anyone looking for sub for entire yr roofs,siding,drywall, all home remodeling keith 7243143179


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## raven2006 (Dec 19, 2006)

hrscammisa said:


> what metal I agree paper is the only way


I had a customer insist on metal bead the other day. Wow those are a pain to put on. He said he wanted metal on the corners so they wouldn't wear down, explained that the paper ones have metal too, but he disagreed.


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