# Rapid-cement sill SNAFU.



## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

yourfriend said:


> Just to clarify, there was and is no wooden soleplate under the door. There is an intact soleplate on both sides of the upright studs framing the door. Instead, under the swinging door, there was a cement pour on top of the slab where the soleplate might have been or maybe never was. Believe me when I note that there was more than one construction surprise when parts of the house required attention and opening.
> 
> That old concrete pour was about 4" deep in back over the slab and was bonded to the previous door threshold with enough tough adhesive that it cracked during threshold removal. The bad pour of rapid set filled the void of the extracted concrete and extended into the lip pictured onto the brick landing.
> 
> *So, when I demo the rapid set, that is the replacement picture faced. *I'm working on that list of good links for you for a future posting. Thanks.


Seriously, pull the door, clean out the rapid set and start over. If pulling and resetting the door is beyond your skillset, then by all means FIND someone who can. Trying to Rube-Goldberg it while in place would be a mistake.... arid climate or not IMHO.

Once the door is out and the rapid set gone, you have a couple of choices. You can hire a Mason to properly pour and set a new sill. Or, you can set a new treated sill. But don't set the door threshold right on treated sill, because the chemicals in the wood will corrode the aluminum. Anyway, flash the treated sill with flashing tape, then pan the bottom and re-set the door.

In either case, it will cost very little to pull the door out and do it right. If you don't have the expertise, then you or your parents should hire someone who does.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

No need to be mean.


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## yourfriend (Aug 16, 2013)

CompleteW&D said:


> Seriously, pull the door, clean out the rapid set and start over. If pulling and resetting the door is beyond your skillset, then by all means FIND someone who can. Trying to Rube-Goldberg it while in place would be a mistake.... arid climate or not IMHO.
> 
> Once the door is out and the rapid set gone, you have a couple of choices. You can hire a Mason to properly pour and set a new sill. Or, you can set a new treated sill. But don't set the door threshold right on treated sill, because the chemicals in the wood will corrode the aluminum. Anyway, flash the treated sill with flashing tape, then pan the bottom and re-set the door.
> 
> In either case, it will cost very little to pull the door out and do it right. If you don't have the expertise, then you or your parents should hire someone who does.



Reading my post a few spaces above shows that the weight of other posters' comments and my observations previously convinced me the door coming out was an inevitable part of doing the job right. I thank you for seconding that move and for your other pointers.

The renovation of my mother's house has been my expense. Then there are medical bills. Where I can spread my money by doing what I can, I do. Where a task is necessary and beyond my attempt or possible efficiency, limited funds go to hiring. 

With masonry, there is something more. I like what these gentlemen can achieve. My goal isn't to compete with masons here or have them think I'm taking bread from their mouths as they speak advice. No. I'd honestly like to learn from them and produce a result that shows not only that I did but it was their generous and articulate explanation that enabled that.

I'm hoping others here will be kind enough (on top of the kindness already evident) to walk me through the right choice of materials and procedures in pouring a sill in this situation. Any opportunity I have to return such favors will be my pleasure.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Tscarborough said:


> No need to be mean.


I wasn't being mean.... I was trying to help the guy out.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

yourfriend said:


> Reading my post a few spaces above shows that the weight of other posters' comments and my observations previously convinced me the door coming out was an inevitable part of doing the job right. I thank you for seconding that move and for your other pointers.
> 
> The renovation of my mother's house has been my expense. Then there are medical bills. Where I can spread my money by doing what I can, I do. Where a task is necessary and beyond my attempt or possible efficiency, limited funds go to hiring.
> 
> ...


I sure hope you didn't take my post as being mean spirited like the previous poster seemed to think. 

I really was trying to help.... :thumbsup:


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## yourfriend (Aug 16, 2013)

CompleteW&D said:


> I sure hope you didn't take my post as being mean spirited like the previous poster seemed to think.
> 
> I really was trying to help.... :thumbsup:


I've seen more than one study about how folk on the Internet flame back because they read comments stripped of the usual vocal tone and physical mannerisms as having the unkindest intent possible. I'm too busy thinking about time, money,
rain and the project to dwell on anything but those issues.

My overriding goal is a good resolution of an imperfect situation. With a little more detail and answers to arising questions, I think things can move in the desired direction. Again, I thank you for your input and would appreciate your continued attention to the thread and my questions. 

In fact, here are questions & remarks for you or anyone:

*What materials would you use to pour
the sill?
* How soon after the pour would it be ready to accept the aluminum door threshold? 
*What would the minimum thickness of the sill lip be at the aluminum threshold for strength and considering that it would have to slope outward on to the brick landing pad about 2" from the door aluminum threshold?
*Remark. As currently positioned against the angled brick landing pad, a correctly poured level sill would be 1" high at one end of the threshold intercept and .5" at the other. With the header where it is, there is about 3/8"/.375" free space between it
and the door. The header could be raised for more space.
*Would raising the door and header be advisable to get a thicker lip on the sill?

***And the question we have all been waiting for, what might a mason charge to pour a sill with everything out of the way?


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