# drywalling onto a cinder block wall?



## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

BklynBMW said:


> i cant find that dot dab stuff in the us, im going to use tapcons and fering strips and see how it comes out. thanks for the advise


It will be a lot quicker and easier to use a t nailer.


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

MeatBallDryWall said:


> Hey mudpad, where in middle TN are you located?


I am in Murfreesboro- current project is in Spring Hill- right up the road from you.


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## MeatBallDryWall (Aug 28, 2008)

> I am in Murfreesboro- current project is in Spring Hill- right up the road from you.


Nice, are you looking for a good Drywall Guy?


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

Adams Construction out of Nashville has the metal framing and drywall sub contract. They usually don't sub out anything. There is actually a lot of drywall on this project, all the classroom partition walls are drywall. Unusual for a school, don't know how long they will hold up.


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## MeatBallDryWall (Aug 28, 2008)

I understand, I'm just a little guy (me & 1 other guy) so that's way too big for me anyways.  I would like to talk with you on other projects you may need drywall work on in the future. I'm Jeff BTW & my # is 931-797-5519. Happy New Year Everyone, maybe it'll be better than the last couple. :thumbsup:


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks meatball, I'll hang on to your number. 

Getting back on topic, drywall mud and a few short maize nails to hold in place till the mud sets is all you need to bond board to CMU, as long as everything is dry. If you are not comfortable with that, liquid nails. All the other methods mentioned work fine as well.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

djcg said:


> In canada if you glue that drywall to the cinder block, I guarantee in 2 years you'll have massive mold. Also, furring strips or any type of wood aren't allowed to touch concrete or cinder block according to building code. I imagine the same goes for everywhere else. You need to create a thermal break by insulating the wall.


 
They have done it that way on external walls in the uk for years and i have never seen mold behind them. It's infact it's recommended way because it increases the r values more than plastering straight over the block walls. It gives a second air gap as well as the air gap between the brick and block.


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## Carpenter Wayne (Dec 21, 2009)

bwalley said:


> Use 7/8" hat channel and shoot it onto the block wall with a trackfast gun using 3/4" pins.


 
:thumbsup:

or glue it directly to the block using hardcase nails to hold it in place until the glue sets up


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

Carpenter Wayne said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> or glue it directly to the block using hardcase nails to hold it in place until the glue sets up


I don't trust glue.

I would either T nail furring strips to the block or use a Trackfast and shoot Hat Channel to the block.


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## djcg (Dec 31, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> They have done it that way on external walls in the uk for years and i have never seen mold behind them. It's infact it's recommended way because it increases the r values more than plastering straight over the block walls. It gives a second air gap as well as the air gap between the brick and block.


If it's not in a basement, then mold won't be an issue, but in a basement you have the problem of different air temperature's at the floor of the basement and ceiling of the basement. If you trap them behind a piece of drywall and allow that ever so slight air space will allow the cool and warmer air to mix which will cause condensation and then mold since the drywall is faced with paper front and back. Unless you use DensArmor to stop the drywall from molding.

The main floor and second floor don't have this issue because the temperature is the same from floor to ceiling. Also, it's significantly warmer in the UK as it is here during winter months, so that would also be a factor. 

You'll never get as much R-value from drywall as you would if you actually insulated the wall. Drywall might give you a .5 increase which is insignificant. That air gap won't account for much either, but you're right, it would be more than a direct plaster.


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