# How best to sand painted trim



## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

A job came my way to repaint wood trim. Trim is in place. Whoever painted it the first time never sanded between coats of paint and probably never strained the paint. The trim feels like 60 grit sand paper.
The home owner wants the trim smooth and repainted. 

My question, what would be an efficient method to sand the trim inplace? My concerns are latex paint doesn't sand easily (SW Proclassic paint was used) and lots of curved profiles in the trim, and there is a ton of it. 

I suppose it comes down to using some kind of electric profile sander, although I have never really cared for these, or a bunch of the foam sanding blocks. Any thoughts?


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Would it be easier & result in a better job to strip it?


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

Stripping it is something I had not considered.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

If your going to strip it pull it. If there is enough of it have router blades made and run the trim through the table. Then plane, paint/stain, and reinstall. Should be much less work, definitely much less bending over..


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## bconley (Mar 8, 2009)

It might make more sense to pull it all out and re-install new trim and paint it correctly.


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## skillman (Sep 23, 2011)

How old is the paint on the house.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

The house is new, built about 6 or 7 years ago. The thought had crossed my mind of just installing new trim.


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## J L (Nov 16, 2009)

Why not talk to the client into letting you sand the trim in one room on T&M to see how it goes. If it takes way too long and doesn't get good results, look into removing and sanding/stripping/replacing.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Pro Classic acrylic actually sands pretty good. Some medium sanding sponges should do the trick.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

I would probably start out with a scraper with different profile cutters. You don't have to get down to bare wood. Hand sand to blend in any edges.


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## Paintedlady101 (Feb 26, 2011)

More than likely the other painters sprayed and didn't bother to clean/vacuum the floor before hand. Happens alot with poor quality painters. There no easy answer, so put the big boy undies on and hit it hard. A corse foam wedge sanding block works well, and come from behind with a fine block and buff it out . It will sand out somewhat easier than you think.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

I appreciate all the replies. Fortunately I have done lots of work for this HO and there is no problem with me trying various methods in one room to see what works best. Got to appreciate those good customers who understand.
I also have thougt about having a scraper blade made to fit the profile of the moldings. 
Thanks again for everyones suggestions.
Martin.


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## nature boy (Oct 11, 2010)

You can do it, put yer back in to it


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## Pete'sfeets (Mar 20, 2011)

you know what I find sands the nicest is fresh paint, so I think I would likely carbide scrape the big chunks, an easy sand and then a rough sand , paint and then fine sand to buff up, cured paint is always a harder finish.


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## artiospainting (Mar 16, 2011)

try liqued sand paper wipe it down and paint


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

Before you think of trying anything else I have six words for you; heat gun, heat gun, heat gun.

I have stripped paint with strippers (a lot of different ones) messy and varying degrees of effectiveness. I have stripped with sanders, it'll work but it's work.

Trust me, get a heat gun. No muss no fuss, no hard work.

I am stripping two old doors right now, old base oil coats with newer latex on top; I can get the door to bare wood in about an hour. I started with a 60 grit on the palm sander just to see how it would do compared to the gun; not even close (not to mention the mess created with sanding.

Heat gun.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

If the trim is only one or two profiles then you can form a metal scraper and take out the rough spots pretty quick and then hit them with a sanding sponge as Modern suggested.


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