# Patch Holes behind Baseboard ?



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

There was a flood and restoration co. drilled out about 3 inch holes in the wall bays with the baseboard removed. No moisture found.

Basement on slab and tile floor.

These really needed patching before new baseboard is installed? _Which would conceal the holes._ Why would there be another reason to close the wallboard up first?


----------



## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Drafts & critters.


----------



## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Fire marshal would think so.

Fire tape with a california patch and put the base on.


----------



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Leo G said:


> Fire marshal would think so.
> 
> Fire tape with a california patch and put the base on.


California patch?


----------



## Leo G (May 12, 2005)




----------



## SLSTech (Sep 13, 2008)

Griz & Leo nailed it but it should only be about an inch to an inch & a half not three - with that fill with foam & shave off excess as baseboard covers it


----------



## Adamthebuilder (Apr 14, 2016)

If it is required for all the reasons that have been mentioned above, the insurance company should pay to patch the holes. I am guessing at least $75 per hole?


----------



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Leo G said:


> https://youtu.be/Zvxxy-BPUEQ


 I know that as a Butterfly patch.


----------



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

How about the self stick, metal-backed patches? cut to fit, skim it, done. dries quick, too, since it's not too thick with mud.


----------



## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Mix some 20 minute mud a little thick and fill the holes.:thumbsup:

*Edit- The holes are 3" in diameter?


----------



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

What started out as a "why should it be"...quickly became "how to patch" I tend to think the glass tape with its lower build behind the base, to keep it tight to the wall. 

Or maybe no tape, as pointed out.

If it was a full bath I might seal over it but it's a half.


----------



## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That's why I suggested the california patch. It's only as thick as the paper if you are only doing the 1st coat.


----------



## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

is a california patch essentially a level 1 finish? 

one reason not to use the metal wall patches is the added thickness-if it matters.

a 3" hole above the bottom plate brings the damage up 4-1/2-5" off the floor, that would require a nice wall patch unless you're using a taller baseboard on top of the tile.


----------



## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Do they really need patching? Meh, really depends upon the owner or if the insurance company will pay for it. Have never heard a definitive answer. Cali patches are ideal, but PIA mickey mouse time consuming. Not bad for a handful of holes, but I've seen 20-50-100 holes. They really like the 3" holes down here, if the base board will cover it. I lean toward a "draft Stop" solution. In good conscience, at a minimum, I fire tape (draft stop) with fibrous mesh wide enough to cover.


----------



## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Screw patching holes just cutout and replace the drywall.


----------



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

AustinDB said:


> a 3" hole above the bottom plate brings the damage up 4-1/2-5" off the floor, that would require a nice wall patch unless you're using a taller baseboard on top of the tile.


 Which has occurred to me. 



avenge said:


> Screw patching holes just cutout and replace the drywall.


 Probably best.

Don't know why they cut these large holes.


----------



## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Duct tape. Seal the draft. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## woody123 (Apr 29, 2018)

" 5-minute mud " is my buddy for that kind of thing


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Lots of ways to do this.

The first consideration is any fire rating requirements.

Fastest is probably plug with foam cutouts slightly recessed, and skim with durabond. You can put the trim back up before it sets if you want.


----------



## Allspark (Sep 5, 2018)

*fire rating*

The fire rating is a concern as the above post. But gyp is always lifted off the floor so it doesnt crack with the house flexes, rarely does anyone seal behind the baseboard. or put a jam of a mdf door over gyp, I for one wont trust insurance companies, but I know for a fact insurance companies let that go as its common practice and rarely do every building codes stipulate open gaps in fire rated material to the 1/8 of an inch. What would be needed wud be a fire stop for combustible framing. I would just put a back fire rate ply and then a piece of gyp then time mud then ur finish coat.


----------

