# corner bead for drywall?



## disantodrywall

what do you used for corner bead? I like the wide paper with plastic in it but i have used the thing paper with metal in it but i find it harder to work with. Also do you mud yours or use a spray adhesive? I only have used mud but was wondering if the adhesive holds up good and is easier to work with.


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## TNTRenovate

There are several threads on this subject. I suggest using the search feature.


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## Big Shoe

Metal is the fastest, easiest, time proven method when applied properly.:thumbsup:

Sure, there are other types of beads for specific applications spec'd out by builders and architects. We'll put on whatever they want for a price.

Inside off angles get srtaight-flex for me. In the old days I used flex tape,the one with metal in it.


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## FinishCoatKing

Metal C.B. is the only way to go. Hands down, no question.


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## smuhhh

Metal is what our drywall guys use. I don't know much else about the subject.


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## KennMacMoragh

I don't know if you guys are talking about metal with paper or metal without paper. I used to use the metal without paper, but I had my drywall finisher come in and tell me he didn't like the metal corner bead without paper. I think he said it can chip later so he only uses the kind with paper. 

It makes sense when I think about it. How often have you walked into a house and seen the metal corner bead showing through the wall? I've seen it quite a few times. Won't have that problem if you use the metal with paper kind. And I use the spray adhesive to stick it on, seems to work good.


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## smuhhh

KennMacMoragh said:


> I don't know if you guys are talking about metal with paper or metal without paper. I used to use the metal without paper, but I had my drywall finisher come in and tell me he didn't like the metal corner bead without paper. I think he said it can chip later so he only uses the kind with paper.
> 
> It makes sense when I think about it. How often have you walked into a house and seen the metal corner bead showing through the wall? I've seen it quite a few times. Won't have that problem if you use the metal with paper kind. And I use the spray adhesive to stick it on, seems to work good.


Do you need to vaccuum/clean the corners of dust before applying the spray adhesive?


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## BC Carpenter

I like the paper with metal, just embed it in mud.


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## KennMacMoragh

smuhhh said:


> Do you need to vaccuum/clean the corners of dust before applying the spray adhesive?


Nope, I spray a steady stream on each flap.


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## Brawls1207

*Drywall corners*

No reason to use anything but ultra corner ..just run it thru mud hopper n tape it on ...quickest n easiest application in the field ...I promise


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## vetsdrywall

*Hydro-trim* for all outside corners and *Straight-flex* for all the inside corners. That is about the best you can use!


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## taperdave

*better bead*

I have used bailey metal bead for years, but paper bead takes less mud to fill and are definitely gonna get you less call backs. Try a bead bucket to install.


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## Tim0282

Hard to beat the Bailey bead mud on. They won't crack when the carpenter bangs his trim on. And the mud and paint doesn't chip off the corner when bumped. And they are fast installing. So you can spend more time in the :boat: :thumbup:


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## Sir Mixalot

disantodrywall said:


> what do you used for corner bead? I like the wide paper with plastic in it but i have used the thing paper with metal in it but i find it harder to work with. Also do you mud yours or use a spray adhesive? I only have used mud but was wondering if the adhesive holds up good and is easier to work with.


Here ya go.:thumbup:


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## vetsdrywall

well worth the extra money!


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## Plumbing Zombie

Square outside corner? Standard 1 1/4" corner bead. It will chip if you don't nail or clinch it straight enough also if you only use ready mixed compound (which is a mistake anyways). Readymix is only for topcoat and lightweight for second. Can't see a point in bedding bead in anything but durabond anyways. Around wet areas and shower partitions, only plastic bead, because metal rots and paper peels. A lot of guys have trouble finishing metal bead because it was not put on straight enough and may have been over or under nailed leaving rippling. It takes a lot of beading to get it nice, but once you figure it out, it's perfect.


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## 3rdgen

Been using No-Coat for a couple years now it the only way as far as I'm concerned. It can be ripped in table saw to make L metal. This comes in very handy in timber framed houses that need custom sized L metal. I turn it inside out for all my stand up inside off angles. Works great on outside off angles I even use it for arch flex just cut reliefs in it and use your roller makes a nice arch. Also when you have off horizontal off angles that run into your verticals you mightier them to gather and get a killer transition from one to the other. (I also use Ultra Flex). Since I have started using No-coat I have had slim to no call backs for dented/buckled bead and nothing but complements from finish carpenters on how nice it is to follow us. I have found myself going back to tape on metal bead on patch jobs No-Coat goes on too flat sometimes when u near that extra fill where old bead was ripped off.


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## thom

Around here, in new residential construction, we've only used bull-nose for the past 20 years. Square corner is to match existing in old homes only. 

We use metal BN, either nailed or stapled.


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## CrpntrFrk

Same here Thom. Bull-nose is standard here.

When we were building new and some remodels we were installing 1 1/2" radius bead. It looked really nice. You would have to hold your rock about 1/2" but that was not a problem.

I like installing metal because I just use a finish stapler. But it gets dinged too easy. So in the end I like having plastic bead because it can take a beating and not dent. More then likely you would still have to touch up the flange but I would rather that then have to try to fix a ding on the bowl. I like using that tape on for 45 or off corners.


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## Big Shoe

No offense guys, but I really don't care for bullnose. It causes a huge hook in base and crown if you do not float it out at least two feet. And that computes to alot more labor and BS to deal with. Trim cost more to install too. Paint transitions are a pain too. 


And it's so 90's. (no round bead in my house)

Sock it to me!


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