# PopCorn Match



## Creter (Oct 13, 2009)

Patching in a four inch wide by about 12 feet section of heavy popcorn...any tips would very much appreciated...


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

The best advice in my my opinion is remove the rest of it. But since apparently that is not an option, for a patch that size I think you will have to go to a hopper and compressor. Get some big pieces of cardboard and practice before you spray the ceiling.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

I really like the blue box of texture from lowes, usually works really well unless its very course then I have to buy the bag of course. 
I always tack up painters plastic to the ceiling to form a spray booth and always tack it up far enough away from the edges of the repair that you don't create lines where the plastic was from the build up. As with any repair always feather the new texture into the old to blend. How thick the mix is makes a hug difference in how it looks, as toolnut said, test it out on something first.


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## Creter (Oct 13, 2009)

I knew damn well this was going to be a major fn problem and I tried explaining to the client this as well. I had originally opened the walls leaving a soffit. She wanted it all gone and after explaining why not a good idea she replied...nobody is going to look up there...they will all be looking at my beautiful granite...

I removed the wall, patched it in, mud n tape and several coats of corn mixed with paint with a 3/4 4 in roller and brush.

Couple more passes and it would have been pretty good. Well on the tail end of knowing I needed a few more passes on my punchlist she would be reheating lunch on stove, making cookies, pies or what else or her new roomate would be in the middle of a in home nursing visit...
h
Now she wont stop callin about this dang ceiling...

If ya wanted it done so bad why would you not get out of my way when I was there??

Dunno, venting I guess...


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

So you applied the texture with a roller and brush??? That won't work, you have to use a hopper.


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

I used to be of the same opinion and tell anyone that wanted a patch it couldn't be done well enough and it would always stand out as just that a patch. 

Well, I was forced to come to terms with patching popcorn and no longer believe that. It can be done and I have done it more than once. 

Scrape until all the loose popcorn is off, float the edges (and it doesn't even have to be a stellar job either just good enough to get rid of the edge), prime the spot, mix your popcorn, get the pressure and the gun right, spray the patch (mix the paint in if you can) feathering into the existing popcorn and your done. 

You have to start with the right popcorn and, for me anyway, I have to spray it until it looks a little heavy or it dries out thin.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

r4r&r said:


> I used to be of the same opinion and tell anyone that wanted a patch it couldn't be done well enough and it would always stand out as just that a patch.
> 
> Well, I was forced to come to terms with patching popcorn and no longer believe that. It can be done and I have done it more than once.
> 
> ...


remove it all


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

icerock drywall said:


> remove it all


Yeah a lot of people say that until they hear the numbers. Then they ask how much to patch it?


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

r4r&r said:


> Yeah a lot of people say that until they hear the numbers. Then they ask how much to patch it?


o well I still remove it !


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I would rather remove it than patch it. Nobody is great at patching textures.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> Nobody is great at patching textures.


 
Practice, practice , pratice... :whistling


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Im sure your as good as they get but its still a patch and those pics dont depict the finish product of the entire room. Im sure its great though. For me unless it is a huge room it has always been better to drop the whole ceiling and start over drywall is cheap.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Creter said:


> Patching in a four inch wide by about 12 feet section of heavy popcorn...any tips would very much appreciated...


What are you repairing? A tape joint?
The key to a popcorn patch is good mud work and feathering the new popcorn out into the existing popcorn texture. 
Start by scraping out from the new mud work about 8" to 10" on all sides of the repair. Next scrape out another 12" with light pressure going to no pressure feathering out from where you just scraped the popcorn. I alway's prime the area with a can or two of Kilz before spraying the popcorn. Use a hopper and spray the popcorn in a circular motion and from all directions, starting at the repaired area first. Once you have the repair sprayed. Start feathering out the popcorn into the old popcorn texture.:thumbsup:


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Hey Mix when you do them do you have to apply until it looks too heavy or is it just me?


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

mr mix you rock :thumbsup:


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

r4r&r said:


> Hey Mix when you do them do you have to apply until it looks too heavy or is it just me?


He does it to the point of perfection..... And I'm sure it took many years to get to that point.

Nice job Paul


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

r4r&r said:


> Hey Mix when you do them do you have to apply until it looks too heavy or is it just me?


I guess it depends on each individual ceiling repair. :thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Creter said:


> Patching in a four inch wide by about 12 feet section of heavy popcorn...any tips would very much appreciated...


Also, keep in mind that there are three different sizes of poly beads (the popcorn). 
Choosing the right one can also help in blending a popcorn repair. :thumbsup:

Fine:









Medium:









Course:


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

That's what I meant by starting with the right popcorn.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

oops


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Airless and I think he said in a previous post that he had sprayed it and let it sit for a few once before that.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

boman47k said:


> Okay, that was wet before he sprayed for the video, right?
> 
> Also, is that a hose run in from the outside with a spray nozzle? Looks like it really puts out some water.


Yes, I alway's do a pre soak first.
It's a line from my airless sprayer and I use a .517 tip when spaying water on the popcorn. :thumbsup:


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Yes, I alway's do a pre soak first.
> It's a line from my airless sprayer and I use a .517 tip when spaying water on the popcorn. :thumbsup:


Question for ya Mix I was always told to not pump water through a tip as it would mess it up, cut the opening. Is this an old tip you use or was my advisor incorrect.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

r4r&r said:


> Question for ya Mix I was always told to not pump water through a tip as it would mess it up, cut the opening. Is this an old tip you use or was my advisor incorrect.


Yes it's an old tip. :thumbsup:
I'm sure it does wear a tip. Paint does too. 
My old paint rep told me a tip is no good after it's sprayed 35-40 gallons.


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Yes it's an old tip. :thumbsup:
> I'm sure it does wear a tip. Paint does too.
> My old paint rep told me a tip is no good after it's sprayed 35-40 gallons.


I knew paint did as well but the higher viscosity didn't eat it up as fast is what I always thought. But really that little, that's two maybe three decent sized jobs if you figure primer and top coat. Hell I just ran a five of PVA on walls and ceiling in a 120 sg ft bath alone spraying taped and then textured . I have always just used them until I notice the fan is crappy. Damn chalk more up for job costs.


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