# stairs



## 78 hotrod (Jan 31, 2006)

does any one want to share how the figure out stairs


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## Bone Saw (Feb 13, 2006)

total rise(finish to finish)/whatever you want for a rise=#of rises(rounded to nearest whole #)

total rise(finish to finish)/# of rises=actual rise

subtract tread thickness from seat cut and riser thickness from cheek cut:thumbsup:


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## karma_carpentry (Aug 7, 2005)

From finish floor to finish floor, what's the total rise? Divide by a whole number until it falls in the 6-8" range, 7" is best - that's your number of risers. Subtract one from that, that's your number of treads.

Divide the total rise by the number of risers. That's your unit rise.

Divide the total run by the number of treads. That's your unit run. Make sure it's around 10" not too much less.

Get some brass nuts and screw them onto your carpenter's square so it gives you the unit rise and unit run - that's your cutout.

Get the 2x12s. Mark up the stringers and cut them out.

Adjust the foot according to where it sits (finish floor / subfloor, etc.) Adjust the head according to how it hangs (plywood hanger, metal straps or hangers, etc.

Put on temp treads or finish work.

voila, that's a straight case, is that what you're asking?


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Floor to floor measurement divided by the number of treads. The run has to be ten inches. There also needs to be ten inches from bullnose to bullnose when the tread are laid. The rise can not be over 7 3/4" per code in the books but should be checked with local build dept. as with the run.


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## troubleseeker (Sep 24, 2006)

If only it was so simple as that. All correct procedures in a nut shell, but I suspect if he has to make this inquiry in a post, he doesn't have a clue as to how to go about the process. 

Go to the local library or bookstore ; a picture is worth TWO thousand words here. Also search "Fine Homebuilding" magazine, and "The Journal of Light Construction"; both have had good articles over the years on the nuiances of stairbuilding. 

When you think you have it, save yourself s lot of future "Fixits" by drawing out the stairs full size on the floor, sheetrock wall , or several sheets of plywood laid out. Draw thicknesses for everything.. including both finished floors and the material for the finished treads.Not allowing for the finished floors is the most common faux paux from framers.Call the local building dept to see what their requirements for riser heights are before you start. There are still numerous codes used in different areas, and nothing will ruin your day like being told that your finished stairs have risers that are a quarter inch to high. Many inspectors are anal about stairs, since they can create a real safety issue, and get the spotlight turned on them quickly if there is a serious accident and faulty stairs come to light. It is not rocket science as they say, but thought before action will pay off here. Good luck.


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

troubleseeker said:


> If only it was so simple as that.


Exactly, there's a lot more to it and before you begin check to see what the code requirements. There's a few things to consider minimum/maximum riser height, minimum/maximum thread size, nosing size if thread is under a certain size and the size of the nosing, railing/handrail height, size spacing and on and on. I'm not trying to scare you off but get a book, Taunton has some great ones, and find out the code and know it.

On the post link below Mike Finley posted a link to a "Visual Interpretation" of several building codes.
http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=14772&page=2

Great Stair Books:
http://www.taunton.com


Framing a Staircase
34 steps to building cut-stringer stairs
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00164.asp


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

I like that stair formula. Except under IRC you must have 10" from bullnose to bullnose min. and which I didn't state before because I forgot that the bullnose can't extend more than 1 1/4" past the face of the lower riser per code. So say you are using super tread (osb 1"x11 1/2") You either have to cut a 1/4" off the tread or have a run of 10 1/4. In most of the boxes I framed a 1/4" is to much. Also at 11 3/8" there isn't much material left of a 2x12 to do that with out adding more lateral support from top to bottom


And as point out in that pic head height which is 6'8" per book code.


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## Toothpick (Nov 30, 2006)

> Get the 2x12s. Mark up the stringers and cut them out.


Not to hijack a thread but just curious how many of you still use 2x10 / 2x12 for stringers? A few years ago we got turned on to using 11 7/8" timberstrand. Works great because for one the notches don't get knocked off, and 2 x material always shrinks and therefore the treads are out of level and risers out of plum - in other words the cut is out of square. I know the materials are a little more $ but final tread and riser installation is much easier. :thumbup:


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

Toothpick said:


> Not to hijack a thread but just curious how many of you still use 2x10 / 2x12 for stringers? A few years ago we got turned on to using 11 7/8" timberstrand. Works great because for one the notches don't get knocked off, and 2 x material always shrinks and therefore the treads are out of level and risers out of plum - in other words the cut is out of square. I know the materials are a little more $ but final tread and riser installation is much easier. :thumbup:


2 x 10's never, 2 x 12's yes, not sure how timberstrands would hold up outside, I doubt they're rated for outdoors, and they're pretty ugly. I've seen them for basements, stair that will be enclosed and/or covered, and the center carriage on wide solid wood staircases.


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## Toothpick (Nov 30, 2006)

I meant for inside use, I would never use timberstrand outside.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

A pre-fab builder around here uses timerstrand on the two outside stringers and 2x4 joists ran perpendicular the stairs feel funny to walk up. They may have needed to put a pony wall some where in the middle of the run. They were in the middle of putting the puzzle home together when I took a walk around.


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## karma_carpentry (Aug 7, 2005)

LVL's, yes - they feel good, use in place of 2x12 Doug Fir and the beaks won't break off. But don't reduce the number of stringers because you're using them. They still only carry a slightly higher load.


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## SDContractor (Jan 28, 2007)

figuring stairs: Cheat like I do and buy a Constr. Master Pro calculator.

and LVL's make great stringers. But as Karma stated don't delete any.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

not sure if this is local to Delaware code, but rise + run must be between 17-18 (It's been awhile since I referenced this number-hope its right)


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## Joe B (Feb 13, 2008)

*Supporting system for interior stairs*

Hi All:
Great Site! 
I am in the process of building my home. I hired a framer to frame the house and a roofer to roof it and a mason to pour the concrete. I am doing the rest. As for the stairs, I am willing to try to give it a shot. I see a lot of information on the total stair systems but I have not seen too much on the support system for the stairs. My stairs will have a landing then up to the second floor. Under these stairs will be the stairs for the basement which will either have a landing or go straight. I have a good idea on framing this and even installing the stringer and landing. I really just want to see a picture or just talk about it. Anyone have an idea where I can find a pic or two? This may not be the correct post location, sorry, however your help is most appreciated.
Thanks!


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## al10fred1081 (Feb 9, 2008)

*ummm*

the absolute easiest way to build stairs is to take your rise and run to 84 and order it then get it delivered to your driveway :whistling. honestly that diagram above covers the basics but there's about a hundred different ways to go about building stairs. you can set the whole thing together with treads and risers in grooves on the stringers, dado the treads to go over the risers clear the backside and shim the treads up to firm it all up, or you can go to 84 with a total rise and run (sometimes you need to know how many treads you want too) and order em.....

honestly though swanson has a little blue book that has tables in it with procedures for constructing staircases. taunton has very good literature on stairs, but every carpentry reference should cover the basics of it.

Alex


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## al10fred1081 (Feb 9, 2008)

joe you should really ask your framer to do it for ya unless you are hellbent on doing it yourself or your framer's a dummy.

the stairs should be built to span whatever you need to whether that be joist to cripple wall or joist to floor. if its against a wall you should be fastening to the framing under the treads or even blocking under the wall side stringer and fastening to the framing. your application sounds a good bit more complicated all of this is pretty much application specific so I don't wanna jump into too much not knowing the specifics but the best advice I can give you is to talk the framer into setting your staircases for a deal since he's already there and unpacked.

Alex


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## BuiltByMAC (Mar 11, 2006)

Joe, in addition to the good points made in the above posts, you might want to take a look through this thread
http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=26903&highlight=building+bombproof+stairs

Outdoor stairs were the topic of discussion but a lot of great points were made about building a solid set of stairs, be they inside or outside.

Buy a couple of extra stringers if you're going to build 'em yourself - you'll probably goof the first time around!

Use a jigsaw to finish your inside cuts, don't overcut with the circ. saw...

Mac


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## orson (Nov 23, 2007)

JustaFramer said:


> Floor to floor measurement divided by the number of treads. The run has to be ten inches. There also needs to be ten inches from bullnose to bullnose when the tread are laid. The rise can not be over 7 3/4" per code in the books but should be checked with local build dept. as with the run.


Minimum tread depth nose to nose is 10 inches so minimum run is 10 inches

www.rubycon.us
Ruby Construction LLC 
Lancaster Kitchen Remodeling
Lancaster Bathroom Remodeling


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

ADA treads are 11". Riser no higher than 6 7/8"


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