# Walk In Showers - Steel Studs



## Keeyter (Sep 18, 2010)

Just curious to see what some of you all do with liners and blocking in a Walk-In Shower with Steel Studs. 

I ripped one out last week that the previous contractor used sheet metal screws to screw in 2x10's. But he screwed them from the front of the steel stud into the 2x and put the liner over top. 

Bet you can guess the screw heads poked right threw the liner, which didn't help that it was only 2 inches above the pan. 

What tricks do you guys use.


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

*Blocking for steel studs and pan liners*

We like to cut a double saw kerf about 1/4" deep to receive the fold in the metal stud.

This relief allows the block to sit flush against the back side and not bow the metal stud.

Usually just on one side and the other a butt cut. Then we drill through the back side and repeat.

Fixing the framing around a tub surround can also be a problem as most timees the drywall is boarded on side and these corners on reno's are often to weak for a proper install...

JW


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Seeing as you do custsom high end home remodels, I'd definitely not do it that way.
The work you saw sounds like a handyman/illegal/3 month helper/internet wonder type of work.

I'd hire a local professional tileman/woman. If you're in southern WI, there should be some union shops so they should at least be able to do it to tca spec if you can't find reputable non-union shops/tile people.


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## Keeyter (Sep 18, 2010)

CO762 said:


> Seeing as you do custsom high end home remodels, I'd definitely not do it that way.
> The work you saw sounds like a handyman/illegal/3 month helper/internet wonder type of work.
> 
> I'd hire a local professional tileman/woman. If you're in southern WI, there should be some union shops so they should at least be able to do it to tca spec if you can't find reputable non-union shops/tile people.



You forgot to read the part where I stated, I am ripping out a job that I think was done incorrectly. So my wonder is what have some of the others seen as far as good and bad, not seeking help. 

Again, the job I ripped out he screwed through the face of the steel stud into the 2x10 with a sheet metal screw. So the head stuck out, and poped the liner two inches above the pan. I have already fixed it and moved on. But I won't be curious anymore for others tips and tricks.

Union Shop, funny. Those are the shops out of work here. I am 12 weeks lead, I don't need a guy who pays 245 bucks a month to go to a meeting and drink a couple free beers and have some pizza hut so they can charge 50 dollars more an hour to cover a failing retirement system and political contributions. I do just fine on my own.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Keeyter said:


> You forgot to read the part where I stated, I am ripping out a job that I think was done incorrectly.


I got that....it was.
Water's pretty predictable, so things need to be adjusted/done accordingly.



> But I won't be curious anymore for others tips and tricks.


IMO, "tile" is one of those trades where anyone and everyone think they can do it. (sometimes they are right).

I don't give out any how-to information because I want the work to go to someone already in that trade, no matter what the trade. I'm sort of old school that way.

I was trying to steer you to a tradesman/woman that knows how to do it because it sounds like the last contractor was either a mexican, handyman, relative, or someone from another trade that "can do tile too".

A lot of people out here use mexicans due to they will work for, well, how cheap can ya go? So they stay busy, busier than most american companies that hire the american worker.

So I mentioned looking to a union member on your next high end remod job because at least you will (should) get it done right by a competent american worker. 

If it's you that is doing the showers, or you're employing someone, buy a kerdi shower kit and the video. That's marketed towards homeowners, so "even a caveman can do it." :


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## Keeyter (Sep 18, 2010)

I somewhat agree, Tile is probably one of the easier trades to pick up. That being said, it is more then setting a tile on the wall. Careful thought into layout, design, substrate, and the million other things that differ from a DIY'er that can hang a tile that will look good to his wife who has been nagging him for the last two years versus, a well designed plan that will last longer than any of us. Unless its Salmon, Verde, or Fuscia colored tiles.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Keeyter said:


> I somewhat agree, Tile is probably one of the easier trades to pick up. That being said, it is more then setting a tile on the wall. Careful thought into layout, design, substrate, and the million other things that differ from a DIY'er


Yup.

One of the many companies I worked for two states away was renowned for using mexicans (read: illegals). Over the years more and more work went to mexicans and less to americans. As usual, we'd get their "technical work" and they'd use their hourly/1099 mexicans for the rest. Last job we did for them we did almost all their stone. Almost--Pretty much most of the sinks their hourly/1099 mexicans set fell out. They tried to say those units were ours and force us to go and fix them. Not. Typical commercial BS. They shorted us pay, us overpriced, lazy americans. Common.

Well, in commercial work, they are rarely flood tested (pans). Once the building was about done, they decided to flood test them. Pretty much to a person every unit their hourly/1099 mexicans did failed. And the best thing.....most of the finish work was done. :laughing: So it was a Biiiiiig bill.

They are no longer in business. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Those pans failed due to how they did their drains....and fastening in the liner like the one you mentioned.

I don't know how unions work, but if you're in a pinch and can pass the additional cost along, at least their work should pass muster.


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## Keeyter (Sep 18, 2010)

CO762 said:


> Yup.
> 
> 
> They are no longer in business. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
> ...


I avoid steel framing, its never installed properly and the risk of future issue are not worth the hassle. If I have to use it, it gets faced first


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## Frankwhoa (Oct 20, 2010)

*Shower Pan*

I would screw 1/2" Hardibacker board into the metal studs, pour my mud bed, and then coat everything in RedGard or a similar product per the TCA recommendations for a solid backing bonded waterproof membrane installation (B421-07). I would never use only a pvc vinyl liner like the "old" school guys do because only the "really" old school guys know how (two sloped mudbeds with pvc lined in between) and most are dead. The new "old" school guys (15-25 years of 'experience') dont have a clue (they lay the liner right over the existing slab/wood) and I fix there showers weekly. 

I learned from my dad and uncle and dont do it the way they did but keep to the principles. My showers pan liners dont leak. Only the tile, grout, and thinset get wet, nothing else (such as the mud bed or worse your walls) so that allows everything to dry FASTER! 

RedGard the mudbed to the flange, fill the "dip" around the drain with rocks/concrete/mudbed but dont clog the weepholes. All per the attached illustration and never have a problem.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Keeyter said:


> I avoid steel framing


I used to take whatever was there and do whatever I was given.










I didn't frame this one, but I sort of grew to like steel as they're all the same.


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## Keeyter (Sep 18, 2010)

CO762 said:


> I didn't frame this one, but I sort of grew to like steel as they're all the same.


The consistency is a nice benefit


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Keeyter said:


> The consistency is a nice benefit


But if someone else frames it, they get it right, no? 
On that job, they went thru 8 mexican framing crews.
The mexican drywall crews often rock it too.

I used drywall tape and liquid nails to set that curb in place.


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