# Curved Stairs



## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Need some assistance with hanging drywall underneath a curved stair. Drywallers are long gone -- it's the stair builders fault -- he was late! Now I'm left with closing the bottom of the stairs myself. The stairs curve 360 degrees from 2nd floor to main floor. On initial inspection there are 3 angles to deal with. I blocked the inside stingers at equal heights, measured from the bottom of the stringer. The drywall will mount to these blocks. I tried cutting a cardboard template to help on the circular portion by it seems the width is OK but as you try and attached the 1/2" board along the curve section the angles don't mesh. Any experience with this would be appreciated.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

When we do curved stairs, along with your nailers, we take metal studs and tab the ends to fasten them to the blocks. The metal studs will twist to acommodate the helic curve of the stairs. We will put these at a maximum 16" center. The rock can then be "broken" on these studs and fastened securely, we use 1/4" board, 2 layers.:thumbsup:


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## fr8train (Jul 17, 2007)

boy does that look like a pain in the @$$ to finish!!!!


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## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

Use double layers of 1/4''. G


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Loneframer, I'm not sure I follow you exactly. Can you elaborate a little more? Much appreciated.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro said:


> Loneframer, I'm not sure I follow you exactly. Can you elaborate a little more? Much appreciated.


 I wish I had pics, but if you were to take a 2x4 and span it across the opening flatways, it would lay flush with one side, but on the opposite side the end would not sit flush because the helix changes with the radius. In other words the 2x4 will "rock" somewhat. A metal stud lain flat however, will twist enough to follow the change. All you need to do is notch the edges of the studs to get them to sit flat on the nailer blocks. Did I make any sense of this?:thumbsup:


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

loneframer said:


> A metal stud lain flat however, will twist enough to follow the change.


That's pretty self-evident from here. I suspect fpro's quandary is:



> The rock can then be "broken" on these studs and fastened securely


Are you talking about scoring and snapping, or just forcing it until it goes "crick!"?


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> That's pretty self-evident from here. I suspect fpro's quandary is:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about scoring and snapping, or just forcing it until it goes "crick!"?


 Simply that the edge of the sheet will be cut to land on the stud for positive fastening.:thumbsup:Thanks Tin


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

I see. Does the cross member need to sit level crossing the span against the nailer blocks I already positioned or can it follow the helix equal distance up from the bottom of stringer? The nailer blocks on both sides are 6.5" up from the bottom of the stringer, however I do notice that the inner helix stringer is somewhat at a highr level than the outside stringer. Especially as you approach the 360 degree turn.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro said:


> I see. Does the cross member need to sit level crossing the span against the nailer blocks I already positioned or can it follow the helix equal distance up from the bottom of stringer? The nailer blocks on both sides are 6.5" up from the bottom of the stringer, however I do notice that the inner helix stringer is somewhat at a highr level than the outside stringer. Especially as you approach the 360 degree turn.


 Be most concerned at the bottom of the staircase, sometimes the outer stringer is lower than the inner, which allows for it to finish like my pic. The rock goes past the inner stringer to the drywall and butts the outer stringer, it will be evident at the bottom where my baseboard runs across.
An even reveal on the bottom of the stringer is the desired finish, I usually use the treads on the steps as a guide to keep the studs in proper orientation. I would not be concerned about being level so much as keeping the desired reveal. Sounds like your already on the right track.:thumbsup:


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro, please take plenty of pics and post them on this thread. I'm sure many guys will learn something from your project.:thumbsup:


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro, go back to my edited post, it addresses the question about the inner stringer being lower than the outer.:thumbsup:


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Will do my best. Not totally confident with the approach but plan to investigate it further. One way or another will get it done!


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro said:


> Will do my best. Not totally confident with the approach but plan to investigate it further. One way or another will get it done!


 Just don't try to rush it. Once you start tinkering with the metal studs, it will become self evident. The metal studs are key to a successful finish in my opinion. Did you go back to my edited post addressing the inner and outer stringers?:thumbsup:


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Been awhile since I framed this one. Can't remember how we framed it underneath


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

loneframer said:


> Just don't try to rush it. Once you start tinkering with the metal studs, it will become self evident. The metal studs are key to a successful finish in my opinion. Did you go back to my edited post addressing the inner and outer stringers?:thumbsup:


Yes I did read it. I won't have to concern myself too much with this issue as the stairs eventually go straight again once you come out of the 360 degree turn. Much the same way you see it on the top portion of the stairs (refer back to the image I posted), but will keep this in mind. I now understand what you are referring to the cross metal members. How do you prevent them from buckling if you are to push the rock against them and force the shape by breaking it? I would think the metal if unsupported will just bend in the middle.


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Warren said:


> Been awhile since I framed this one. Can't remember how we framed it underneath


Hi Warren, your stairs have a fairly gentle curvature. The stairs I'm working on turn 180 degrees and go in the opposite direction towards the middle of the stairs. The curvature underneath is very steep and I'm working with various compound angles. The drywall isn't easy to cut or position as a result. 

Loneframer has given some very good advice on how to approach this problem. If you recall anything from your project would be interested in knowing it.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro said:


> Yes I did read it. I won't have to concern myself too much with this issue as the stairs eventually go straight again once you come out of the 360 degree turn. Much the same way you see it on the top portion of the stairs (refer back to the image I posted), but will keep this in mind. I now understand what you are referring to the cross metal members. How do you prevent them from buckling if you are to push the rock against them and force the shape by breaking it? I would think the metal if unsupported will just bend in the middle.


 When you install the metal studs, you will have to twist them slightly to follow the curve. They will actually be surprisingly ridgid after they are fastened, even though they are flat. If you use 1/4" rock, it will be flexible enough to follow the curve without forcing it too much, by "breaking" I merely meant that the seam of the sheet would land on the stud, although you will most likely have to cut it to do so.:thumbsup:


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I wonder if you were to use some 2x material that was twisted if it would somewhat follow the twist of the stairs while still giving you some rigidity. Maybe even hang a sheet first letting it run wild past some framing that is installed with edges purlined and then cut drywall parallel with one of the treads and install the 2x4 at this joint while the board is in position. You seem to have a good grasp of whats going on and I'm sure you will resolve this. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

loneframer said:


> fpro, please take plenty of pics and post them on this thread.


Seconded! If anybody gripes about the extra time for taking pics, tell them that's the fee you had to agree to for a pro consultation. :thumbsup:


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

loneframer said:


> When you install the metal studs, you will have to twist them slightly to follow the curve. They will actually be surprisingly ridgid after they are fastened, even though they are flat. If you use 1/4" rock, it will be flexible enough to follow the curve without forcing it too much, by "breaking" I merely meant that the seam of the sheet would land on the stud, although you will most likely have to cut it to do so.:thumbsup:


You had mentioned every 16", but I think I may have to have it spaced more closer say 10"-12". The curves are really steep. Did I mention it turns 180 degrees? Especially the inside stringer. I think I will need to cut the rock into pie shapes. I was hoping to template the entire turn but I don't think that will be possible. The smaller pieces will mean more seams but will be easier to manage.


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Seconded! If anybody gripes about the extra time for taking pics, tell them that's the fee you had to agree to for a pro consultation. :thumbsup:


Will do. Thank goodness I don't have to pay for all this invaluable information. What a great place. Thanks guys!!


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## gallerytungsten (Jul 5, 2007)

*Plaster*

Another option for these stairs would be plaster, if you have access to a good plasterer.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro said:


> You had mentioned every 16", but I think I may have to have it spaced more closer say 10"-12". The curves are really steep. Did I mention it turns 180 degrees? Especially the inside stringer. I think I will need to cut the rock into pie shapes. I was hoping to template the entire turn but I don't think that will be possible. The smaller pieces will mean more seams but will be easier to manage.


 closer spacing will not hurt. We have dampened the back of 1/4" with a spray mist and bent around a 12" radius. I believe they make flexible 1/4" for bending purposes.:thumbsup:


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

loneframer said:


> closer spacing will not hurt. We have dampened the back of 1/4" with a spray mist and bent around a 12" radius. *I believe they make flexible 1/4" for bending purposes.*:thumbsup:


Worth a trip to a real
drywall supplier.
Never thought of the steel studs.
Wasted a lot of time building up
laminates from 3/8 " ply rips to 
get the "twist factor."


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

That's what I did today. Went to a local building centre and picked up flexible 1/4" sheets.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro said:


> That's what I did today. Went to a local building centre and picked up flexible 1/4" sheets.


 Nice! Don't forget to get pics during the process, if you don't, you'll regret it later.:thumbup:


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

loneframer said:


> Nice! Don't forget to get pics during the process, if you don't, you'll regret it later.:thumbup:


Absolutely!!


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Just wondering.....why don't you have the drywall co. come back and pay them to do it?


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Big Shoe said:


> Just wondering.....why don't you have the drywall co. come back and pay them to do it?


Job too small for them. Not worth their travel and setup.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro, whats the news? Did you get started on those stairs? We want pics, please.:thumbup:


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

Ok, here are some pics. It's not complete, but it's coming along.

The curved drywall is 1/4" material and after it's been wet, does yield. Although, instead of using a second sheet to cover the first I think I may resort to plastering it to the finish stage. The section of drywall I cut were using a card board template. If I recut the same pieces they will inevitably end up on the same seams, which will cause more work after trying to get those seamed areas down and covered evenly. If I plaster I can build it up to teh 1/2" stock and eventually even it out cover al the seams nicely. Anyway that's the plan...

Here are the pics so far.


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## fpro (May 10, 2009)

more pics...


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

Wow! How in the world did you curve the oak like that? Wouldn't thin MDF work better than sheetrock if you are just going to plaster it anyway?
Steve


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

fpro, that looks very nice. I see what you meant by the steep angles on the curve now. Looks like the metal studs performed well in that situation. You might be better off with the plastering idea, that is asking alot of the drywall alone. Please post a thread in framing forum with details of how you utilized the metal studs, not everyone looks in the drywall forum. Thanks, looks awesome.:thumbsup:


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## MUDBUCKET (Jun 9, 2008)

I did the taping on a staircase like this 10 yrs ago ,they used masonite instead of rock ,we coated with durabond a couple times then plus 3 or some topping mud .I got a feeling that after a few years of bouncing steps and dry wood it's gotta be cracked up.They should've used 1/4"rock.


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## Brocktologist (Sep 16, 2008)

...


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

When doing curved stairs, we use blocking every 12" oc, and to get your curve use polly and staple it to the curve you want to create, make sure it is tight, and firm, trace the stair angle to the wall on both sides using a marker, While you are doing this, make sure you have a 12' sheet 1/2" soaking in water. Remove the polly making sure you know which end is up. and trace onto the drywall laying flat. Cut out and install. some triming will needed to be done, and if you dont feel confidant it will fit, might be to narrow, add a bit to our lines.

We have done many, and this is the way we do it, and it works well.
Jay


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

AARC Drywall said:


> We have done many, and this is the way we do it, and it works well.
> Jay


If you have the time and inclination, I'd love to see some pics of that process the next time you do one. :thumbsup:


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## bob_cntrctr (Jan 30, 2008)

I recently did something similar - a corkscrew-shaped wall in the tunnel for a skylight. The lite was one rafter wide, but the opening in the ceiling was to be two rafters wide, and not centred on the skylight - so one face of the tunnel was between the upper chord at the4 skylight and the bottom chord of the next rafter over, creating a continuously changing angle between them just as these stairs.

So, since we're on the topic, I made a thread in the drywall pic area just for fun:

http://www.contractortalk.com/f89/corkscrew-shaped-skylight-tunnel-59215/

Since a lot of the work is the framing, maybe I'll post a link to it in there too.


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