# blueprint reading



## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

Can anybody recommend a good book to get up to speed on reading blueprints? Any online sources for learning.

thanks,

Bruce


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Click right >>>>>>>>>>> HERE.

And remember:


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

And for Pete's sake... if there's a symbol or code on a set of prints for the area in which you are working that you don't understand, please ask someone. Most of those seemingly insignificant symbols or codes can be very, very important. Better to look "dumb" for 2 minutes asking someone than having to correct an expensive omission for hours, days, or weeks.

Some more free advice... read the spec sheet or spec book thoroughly too. Some of the oddest, most unusual, strangest, and expensive stuff in contained only in the specs and not on the print itself. Read the prints for the other trades too. Some of the things that are detailed on the prints of the other trades may well (and often does) pertain to you too.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

mdshunk said:


> . Read the prints for the other trades too. Some of the things that are detailed on the prints of the other trades may well (and often does) pertain to you too.



What do you mean they have to run wire through that wall. (pertaining too a double sheer wall)  



Tonkadad here is another site with alot of books on construction craftsman-book.com


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## Glasshousebltr (Feb 9, 2004)

Sorry Mrs Jones, but we need to run the double lammy through the car windows.

Bob


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

JustaFramer said:


> What do you mean they have to run wire through that wall. (pertaining too a double sheer wall)


Yeah, I hate you guys for that. Couldn't you just leave one side off and get everything else inspected but that shear wall?


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

mdshunk said:


> Yeah, I hate you guys for that. Couldn't you just leave one side off and get everything else inspected but that shear wall?



I do. I worked for this guy last summer that did that. The inspector was pissed they like to see the skeleton before it is covered. I had to do all this stuff and pull some strings to get it to pass. Now I don't know why I did it. 


Hell I try and tell the super you can use 3/4" ply instead of the double shear wall. I don't like sheeting it twice.


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## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

Thanks for all of the help.


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## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

The strength of a nailed plywood and stud sheer wall is determined essentially by the number, size, and type of nails that can fit around the perimeter of the panels. Therefore, adding another panel to make a double-sided shear wall effectively doubles its strength. Thickening the plywood is not as effective since the panels are expected to "unzip" along the perimeter edges before the plywood fails in shear.


Red Vector ( http://www.redvector.com/ ) has online courses for contractors:

http://www.redvector.com/web_store/add_course.asp?id=1104


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## camas (Oct 21, 2005)

Being up here in colonial New England, we sometime build log cabins. Fella better read the plans cause carving a new chase through solid log walls can make a person cry. Or result in some suspiciously dark rooms.

About the question, pick up copy of Architectural Graphic Standards - if you really want to know drawings. It's spendy ($500), but even the edition from a couple years ago will give you a pretty functional idea of things, and they're usually on sale on Amazon.


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## noreast05 (Sep 4, 2005)

camas said:


> Being up here in colonial New England, we sometime build log cabins. Fella better read the plans cause carving a new chase through solid log walls can make a person cry. Or result in some suspiciously dark rooms.
> 
> About the question, pick up copy of Architectural Graphic Standards - if you really want to know drawings. It's spendy ($500), but even the edition from a couple years ago will give you a pretty functional idea of things, and they're usually on sale on Amazon.



  wow I'm lost


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

mighty anvil said:


> The strength of a nailed plywood and stud sheer wall is determined essentially by the number, size, and type of nails that can fit around the perimeter of the panels. Therefore, adding another panel to make a double-sided shear wall effectively doubles its strength. Thickening the plywood is not as effective since the panels are expected to "unzip" along the perimeter edges before the plywood fails in shear.
> 
> 
> Red Vector ( http://www.redvector.com/ ) has online courses for contractors:
> ...


AHEM I have seen the engineering for 3/4 so hold your horse's again. :thumbsup: 

ps Don't go crying to the mod again it's unbecoming and a serious ***** in your armor.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

One more thing what does 3" perimeter nailing do on two sides I'll bet $100,000 that the whole wall will fail because of over nailing even with 3x (not hacky double stud b.s.) material on the vertical edges.


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## Grumpy (Oct 8, 2003)

mdshunk said:


> And for Pete's sake... if there's a symbol or code on a set of prints for the area in which you are working that you don't understand, please ask someone. Most of those seemingly insignificant symbols or codes can be very, very important. Better to look "dumb" for 2 minutes asking someone than having to correct an expensive omission for hours, days, or weeks.
> 
> Some more free advice... read the spec sheet or spec book thoroughly too. Some of the oddest, most unusual, strangest, and expensive stuff in contained only in the specs and not on the print itself. Read the prints for the other trades too. Some of the things that are detailed on the prints of the other trades may well (and often does) pertain to you too.


That's some damned good advice!

For example I am not a plumber or electrician but I have to look at their specs and their sections of the prints to know where theya re to place penetrations in my roofs. 

Also as you said in the specifications you can find some of the weirdest oddest most poorly written specs you could imagine. Just weird stuff that makes me scratch my head.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

JustaFramer said:


> AHEM I have seen the engineering for 3/4 so hold your horse's again. :thumbsup:
> 
> ps Don't go crying to the mod again it's unbecoming and a serious ***** in your armor.


I don't 'get it', - - we've got an 'on-site' architect here who rarely chimes in unless it's to give some sound (and free) advice, backed by years of experience and knowledge, - - and we're going to chase him away??

No real need to reply, - - I'd rather you just 'ponder' it.

Thanks.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Tom R said:


> I don't 'get it', - - we've got an 'on-site' architect here who rarely chimes in unless it's to give some sound (and free) advice, backed by years of experience and knowledge, - - and we're going to chase him away??
> 
> No real need to reply, - - I'd rather you just 'ponder' it.
> 
> Thanks.



What are you talking about? What free advice? 

I have had the paper work in my hands Engineer stamp included. And he try's and say different again. Sorry but I am not going to be pushed around by some guy that is a architect for backwoods America.


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## plumguy (May 29, 2005)

Tom R said:


> we're going to chase him away?? I'd rather you just 'ponder' it.
> 
> Thanks.



:wallbash: :bangin:


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

JustaFramer said:


> What are you talking about? What free advice?
> 
> I have had the paper work in my hands Engineer stamp included. And he try's and say different again. Sorry but I am not going to be pushed around by some guy that is a architect for backwoods America.


Not really trying to start an argument here, - - 'less you want to talk about POLITICS :cheesygri (I'm always up for that!!), - - and not trying to 'judge' who may be right or wrong on any particular point (we've all been on both sides of that), - - just saying it's of great value to me (and I'm sure many others), - - to have an architect among us.

The inherent value of this site is the myriad of opinions from all 'walks', - - the vast knowledge comes from no one person, - - but from the sum of 'all', - - that would include (hopefully), me, you, and HIM.

The 'free advice' statement comes from my many experiences with his 'wealth of knowledge' on another site, - - you may not be so aware of it, - - because he's barely even been given a chance on this site.

P.S. Didn't know Boston had a 'backwoods'!! :cheesygri


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## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

Perhaps I didn't expain it properly.

When a conventional plywood or OSB sheathed wall (with maximum nails/screws and glue) is not long enough to provide the required lateral bracing and a double-sided design is inconvenient, it is necessary to further increase the strength of the perimeter attachment of the panels and the connection to the foundation. 

Increasing the thickness of the panel would only add bracing strength if it allowed for greater nail/screw placement and I have never seen evidence of that although I can see a definite benefit in compensating for overdriven nails which is a common and serious problem with nail guns. Whatever the panel thickness, greater perimeter attachment is usually provided by using wider vertical members (3x studs) which allows greater staggering of the nail/screws. Additional bolts are usually added to transfer the greater forces to the foundation. 

Another way to provide greater bracing in a limited wall length is to use a factory built unit like Simpson's Strong-Wall which reinforces the edges of a 15/32" thick OSB panel with steel nailing strips and provides 7/8" hold-down bolts. Even though these prefabricated units provide double or even triple the shear force of conventional walls of the same size, the 1/2" thick OSB panel is not overstresed.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/strongwall/standard.html

Here is a good explanation of lateral bracing methods for homes designed to comply with the IRC. It includes the IRC allowed alternate short shear wall design where 3/8" plywood is allowed.
http://www.co.thurston.wa.us/permitting/docs/Building_Code/Fig 30 Framing Lateral Bracing.pdf

JustaFramer:
The suggestion that a single sided shear wall using 3/4” plywood is equivalent to a double sided shear wall using 1/2” plywood is incorrect and it seemed important to inform the members here of that fact and to explain why. If you are feeling pushed around perhaps you should think twice before making statements on issues about which you have limited knowledge or, alternatively, toughen up about having them corrected and about having your personal insults reported to the administrator.

If this kind of 1&2 family dwelling design information is somehow outside of, or in conflict with, the purpose of the Contractor Talk forum, please ask the administrator to let me know and I will stick to other forums where it is welcomed.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

mighty anvil said:


> Perhaps I didn't expain it properly.
> 
> When a conventional plywood or OSB sheathed wall (with maximum nails/screws and glue) is not long enough to provide the required lateral bracing and a double-sided design is inconvenient, it is necessary to further increase the strength of the perimeter attachment of the panels and the connection to the foundation.
> 
> ...




Again I know the a GC that has engineering for the 3/4" ply so  off


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