# Pond Water-Leveling Pipe Install



## Trencher (Mar 6, 2007)

Guys, I have a job dealing with a new pond, which I did not build, to install a 6 inch water leveling pipe. The bank is comprised of clay. 

I intend to trench three feet down to the needed water line level and trench back the width of levee (14 feet) to install a 6" PVC (which is smoothe - sch.40) or ADS (which is corrogated, but thin in construction) pipe. 

My question is, what would be the best method to seal underneath the pipe to prevent seepage?

I will have a 'jumping jack' to pack everything with.

I know there are a lot of ways to do this, but the most straight forward functional method is needed, due to the rain that seems to start and stop after 2 - 3 mins. Just enough to mess up a day of work.
I know there are not a lot of variables listed, but a method which will fit most any application is what I am loking for.

Thanks in advance guys,
Allen


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

Trencher,

Good to see you again. Seems like it's been a while. Have you gone to Agri-drains website? www.agridrain.com. They have a lot of products for what your looking for.

Like, www.agridrain.com/watercontrolproductsinline.asp

We have purchased from them and liked the quality of their products


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Trencher said:


> My question is, what would be the best method to seal underneath the pipe to prevent seepage?


Bentonite?


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

nick provided an excellent source, we have on occasions, midway in the dike, overdug about 2' from the pipe invert elevation for about 2'......swept out all the loose material from the excavation, ordered a yard of concrete and poured a collar around the pipe....worked well


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## cexcavation (Apr 17, 2008)

A 6" pipe might be tough, but with smaller stuff you can push a pointed steel pipe through the bank with an excavator, attach PVC and pull her back through and not have any of the issues you are describing-******* version of a directional bore:thumbsup: My Dad just pushed a pipe for filling livestock troughs a couple of months ago........said it worked slick except for the getting wet part:laughing:


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

All good advice above.

But since you are working on an existing pond, I found this by following Denick's link and looking around.

This might work better for you, since you will not be putting your outlet at the bottom of the pond. 

http://www.agridrain.com/pipeproduct.asp?prodtype=104


Nice to see you again, Trencher.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

Anti-seep collar

For what you are doing, I would rather use a double wall corrugated pipe. The dirt gets into the grooves on the pipe and it seals better than a smooth pipe. What I would rather see you do is to dig the trench deeper and use a sch 40 pipe and bring it out into the water a couple feet and put a 90 degree elbow on it standing up. This will prevent water washing out under the pipe while it flows through. The only bad thing about that is garbage and sticks can plug the pipe. They do make small trash racks to fit over or inside of the pipe you use. Backfill in 8" lifts and run the jumping jack around and you will be golden.


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## Trencher (Mar 6, 2007)

Thanks guys!

I went to that site and it has some pretty good ideas. Thanks for the link.

Rino, The very idea is to put in a 6 inch pvc pipe and, eventually, the land owner will put an Elbow on it at a later date for summer dates to swim and then lower it during winter (if you want to call it that in the south)
The customer now wants to wait for the weather to dry out and wait until spring. I told him that the level of the natural drain will drain towards his barn, but he wants to hold off on it. 

I suppose I will be doing additional work for him if it does...

Good to be back!


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