# Do you tape your corner beads?



## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

I do,

I'm sure we all have seen house after house with the corner beads busting loose. :sad:

My solution, I always tape my corner beads.

This weeks project is drywall, I'll add pics of my progress. :thumbsup:

Not a real elaberate job, just trying to give it a face lift. 

110+ year old home, so I am sure you will see somethings a little out. 

I have straightened out most of the big problems, new rock on the ceiling, demo'ed out the existing closet, reframed new closet. 

I have to order a 48" 8-lite french door, frame the opening, revamp/ re trim windows, etc. 

Anyways here's where i am right now,


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

Saved for progression pics, up to this point.


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## ROVACON (Apr 19, 2010)

CCC.....try No Coat Corner beads. Extremely strong and does not crack like a traditional bead due to its paper flange. :thumbsup:


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## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

Yes, most of the time, GMOD


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## Anderson (Sep 7, 2009)

Never thought of it til you mentioned it. SOunds like a good idea though.


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## Ashcon (Apr 28, 2009)

I've used the one coat or no coat for inside corners on those little bastard closets. First time we tried it one of the guys installed in backwards.Wtf?

So the no coat became and expensive paper tape.

Live and learn.
Good luck
Chad


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

ROVACON said:


> CCC.....try No Coat Corner beads. Extremely strong and does not crack like a traditional bead due to its paper flange. :thumbsup:


I totally get where your coming from, heres my view.

The corner beads that have paper are around $3.50 approx. for me, and they are mudded on, no mechanical fasteners. ( are these the ones your referring to?)

Standard bead costs $1.50 approx. for me, mounts solid, I ALWAYS use 1 5/8" screws in place of 1 1/4", for the corner beads.

Add approximetly $1.50 for 250' of tape.

$3.00 bullet proof corner, no looking back. :thumbsup:


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## ROVACON (Apr 19, 2010)

No doubt a properly installed metal corner will last especially if it is taped but my experience with no-coat has been great plus you eliminate the screwing/adjusting with the metal. If you had many many corners to do, I feel no coat would save you time and time in the end.

By the way, I like how all of your screws are straight! :thumbsup:


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## ROVACON (Apr 19, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ld-X5Dh05E.

Check out the video.


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## Tim0282 (Dec 11, 2007)

You could use a three inch screw.... if you are hanging a metal bead and taping it on a header across a room and one 2x dries or moves different than the one it is next to, the bead is gonna turn and crack because you attached the bead to that wood. If you use a mud on bead, you don't have that issue. It stays on the rock and doesn't turn or crack. 
Just my two cents worth.  More than my opinion.... Past experience. 
Too bad you have to pay 3.50 for the bead. We pay 2.00 from Sherwin Williams. Talked them into carrying them. No Coat Sticks. Good stuff!


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## JumboJack (Aug 14, 2007)

I always have my corner bead taped.:thumbsup:


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

I clinch all my Soffits and Tape, If I in a high traffic area I compound before I put the Corner bead up then Tape - No nails or Screws - Super Strong. 
Resists most dings and dents.


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## AutomaticTaper (Aug 18, 2010)

i put mesh tape on it and its pretty hard to crack if someone hits it, you don't know how to spot the nails with one stroke??


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## A. Spruce (Aug 6, 2010)

Yup! I always tape my corner beads. Cheap insurance. :thumbsup:


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## dave_dj1 (Mar 16, 2010)

I have never seen a metal corner taped. I don't see the need for it but that's just my opinion. I do like to have durabond 90 or 45 (depending on the job) used on all corners. I do like using the no-coat corners when the job permits.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

*Remodeling Demo*

Some of the demo work, out with the trim, carpet, pad, tack. 
Then up with a layer of bruce hardwood flooring, I am guessing its from the early late 60's, or early 70's (just speculating). 
I know the carpet was laid in the early 80's for sure.

I hate layers,...:whistling

You can see it was in pretty rough shape.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

*Remodeling Demo*

Out with the drywall on the ceiling,the first layer of insulation, and the remaining vermiculite that was on the top plates.
Look ma, no electrical box, the fan was mounted to the drywall,...:whistling


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

*Remodeling Demo - Going back together.*

Up with the new electrical box (re located), new insulation, new rock.
Had a ceiling joist or two that where bowed down, chaulked a straight line, and cut them on the fly. 
Quite a bit straighter them it was, :thumbsup:


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## Rockhound (Jul 12, 2007)

:thumbsup: Us hangers around here would LOVE you guys if you used the tape-on bead! Cheap wood and gnarled corners make putting on bead a real PITA and the blame is always on the hangers. Good point about the bead not following the bowing and buckling wood....I've tried pointing that out a few times but :blink::blink::blink: is the response I get.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

When you walked through the door way, it squeaked, and it squeaked bad. It had been poorly repaired prior. 
After invesigating here's what I found. 1x native joist broke. :w00t:


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Feb. 08? Looks like you did like I do sometimes, forget to check the date on the camera.

I don't quite understand the guestion. Do you mean just tape and mud on the corners?

I do like the plastic with paper bead for what little I do in this line of work.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

boman47k said:


> Feb. 08? Looks like you did like I do sometimes, forget to check the date on the camera.


The date is right unfortunetly, 
Its Feb. 2010,...I did 99% of the demo work, pre-RRP.

The job has set for 6 months, now I am back on it.

Normally though, yes your right I forget to set the date, time stamp right. inch:


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

boman47k said:


> Do you mean just tape and mud on the corners?


Yes, I'm reffering to tape and mud on the corners.

All to often I find cracking corners, where people just tack the corners up, mud them out, and their done. 

IMO, It never holds the test of time.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

AutomaticTaper said:


> i put mesh tape on it and its pretty hard to crack if someone hits it, ??


:no: No mess tape for me, I'll stick to paper. 

Mess tape isn't even allowed on my property. :laughing:




AutomaticTaper said:


> you don't know how to spot the nails with one stroke??


I certainly do, I just find its a personal preference. 

I make at least 2-3 passes (at different directions), it gets the air pock out. :thumbsup:


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I mesh tape my corners. An interesting point about the metal/paper tape - that is is not fastened to the stud.

Last job I did I had no cracked corners a year later. Only one cornerbead where the mud shrank and had to be re-coated.

That's acceptable to me, considering the quality of the framing we're getting these days.

Of course the HO was told to expect some minor repair due to lumber shrinkage, and she was very pleased that that was all there was.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

From your picture you posted it's overkill. You have twice as many screws as needed and it would take superman to crack that bead in your picture. No tape needed there.:no:

I do tape beads that I'm not able to properly install due to existing frameing or just plain crappy situations I think may cause a problem down the road.

Bead properly installed needs no tape. arty:


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

Big Shoe said:


> It's overkill.


 
Thats just the way I like things, :thumbup:

One room, or a whole house. 
I choose quality, over quanity every chance I get. :thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

We are just talking about vertical corners, right?


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

The beads I see cracked the most are horizontal. Ceilings,soffits,coffers and beams. 

After those hurricanes slammed us a few years ago we had a rash of popped tape and beads. Truss movement and wind pressure in attic.


In the past we have taped all beads as an optional ($$) upgrade. Mostly high end 500 to 1000 board jobs. 

Crow, Good for you, nothing wrong with the way you do things.:thumbsup:


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## tj11314 (Aug 19, 2010)

*Taping Corner beads*

Metal corner beads we tape, tape on beads or no-coat beads We don't.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Anyone else try to avoid an exposed tape end? Like i tape my butts, then tapers then corners last. Most people look at me like im retarded but i like the way it looks better when i cover the ends of all my tape. :whistling


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## Axecutioner-B (Jan 28, 2010)

Tape can't bond too good to metal can it? I mean not like it can bond to the paper on the board?


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## A. Spruce (Aug 6, 2010)

I've never had a problem with it.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

We usually fiber-tape and use setting type compound on any plastic corner bead that we use in bathrooms, arches or oceanfront homes and condo's.


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## Mellison (Aug 3, 2008)

Absolutely!


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

*I'll throw you a bone.*

Some progression shots,

Taped, 2nd coat on fasteners.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

CC, no staggering of the joints?


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Looks like he did. Nice work Crow.:thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I was just wondering. I see several lines of mud covering the sheets on the beveled edges and two lines of mud covering two continous line of butt joints. Maybe I am not looking at it right. Not saying it will not finish out nice and smooth. I just read a lot about staggering the butt joints.

He may have used butt boards. I can't and was not dissing the work. :thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I went back and looked at the rock before it was mudded and got a better picture of how it was hung. Got a little better understanding.


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