# Oil VS Water, BM Satin Impervo VS ?



## outsidethelines (Oct 19, 2007)

I am bidding on a house where the HO wants me to paint kitchen cabinets that are like brand new. They are wood with a clear finish and the woman wants them to be *white*. However, what she is asking for is a factory quality finish.There is a lot of anatomy to these cabinet doors and she is very concerned about the paint pooling in the corners, dripping or not getting into all the detail. I told her that the best thing that I know of is to spray them and have someone go behind the sprayer with a brush to massage the paint into the details. 
Questions: 
· What products would you use to prime, and then to paint? 
· To paint, we were considering the BM Satin Impervo either the waterborne or the oil. Is there, for example, a SW product that would be a better choice? 
· Oil VS Waterborne: Everyone was thinking that an oil base product would provide a durable, long lasting finish that will level out real nice when applied. However, I am concerned about the finish yellowing over the years. What would be your best choice? 
Thank you


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## capital city (Mar 29, 2008)

The oil will level out better, Sw has Pro Classic if you go that route. First thing you would have to sand everything, then prime with a good bonding primer. If the HO doesnt want oil then I usually use exterior paint. I used exterior Duration on some a couple of years ago. Went back last month and painted a couple of rooms and of course checked out the cabinets and they still looked great.


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## DeanV (Feb 20, 2006)

Do not use exterior paint. It stays softer than interior enamels to allow for better expansion and contraction. It is not the way to go. It would also be less resistant to blocking. For pure white, I would be concerned about the oils. For awesome flow in a WB, try Insl-X cabinet coat. It gets harder than WB Satin Impervo and flows as well or better.


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## Jonesey (Jul 7, 2006)

Problem with the cabinet coat is that it gets too hard too quickly. If you caulk anything on those doors, make sure you use high quality stuff (55 yr or better) and wait a full day for that caulking to dry. The cabinet coat will crackle if you don't. I've had this happen. HO was not happy. 

Kelly-moore's DuraPoxy is a better product in a waterborne, imho. I'd suggest SW proclassic before BM alkyd impervo. The BM doesn't spray worth crap. It's too thick and it stays wet too long. 

The way we do kitchens is dewax/degrease, sand, caulk, prime 2x, sand, topcoat 2x.

If you get your caulking right all those nooks and crannies will be smoothed out with the caulking, allowing a close to perfect finish that you don't have to backbrush into the corners. 

We spray PM 200 alkyd when we go white. Durable, dries fairly quickly, and needs no additives whatsoever to spray well w/ an airless and a 3/11 RAC5 tip.


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## outsidethelines (Oct 19, 2007)

*thank you*

Wow! Great info. Any suggestions on the best way to set up the cabinet doors to spray? Also, I am concerned about dust, etc. getting into the finish. 

Thanks

BTW, 

PM 200 alkyd - I'm not familiar with this. Can you tell me more?


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