# I suck at caulk



## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

It just frickin' boggles the mind that I can jack a house up and replace a sagging section of I-beam, but when it comes to caulking around a toilet or a sink, it looks like it was done by Stevie Wonder on peyote. 

I've tried every "As Seen On TV" gimmicky little plastic tool, I've tried intricately taping jobs off with masking tape before I caulk, etc. etc.

Why in the hell can't I get a neat caulk job done? They end up lumpy or spread out all over the adjacent surfaces. 

It's almost come down to me seriously looking for a caulking subcontractor! It just ruins an otherwise fairly-professional remodel or handyman job, ya know?


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## Jdub2083 (Dec 18, 2011)

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Tools---Tips/DIY-Skills/Tool-Skills/caulking--pro-tips/View-All

Some helpful info here.


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## TJH24 (Jan 8, 2013)

I learned from a painter after I tried to caulk some trim and I made a mess for him.

I always cut as small as tip as possible. You can always cut it bigger if need be. I cut it on an angle too, and then I make sure I run the knife around the tip where I just cut and get all the burrs and chunks off. If you are using painters caulk or anything other than silicone, keep a wet rag with you. You can clean off the tip and your fingers once you run them through it.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Practice can only make you better :thumbsup:


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

Silicone caulk is the most challenging until you learn how----

Here's how----

You need a roll of paper towels and a bottle of Greased Lightning.

Remember this---silicone will stick to any clean dry surface--
It will not stick to a wet soapy surface

Apply a small bead of caulk---immediately spray the line with Greased Lightning

Spray your finger---then tool the caulk with your finger, removing excess to a paper towel.

Try this---it works.


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## thezoo (Sep 13, 2008)

Is a tiny clean bead of caulk enough? I like to use as little as possible.

When laying the bead, go slow and try to be perfect, skip a little spot if you glob some.

Always clean your finger, don't try to pull excess caulk when smoothing as it only spreads around the edges of you finger.

If after smoothing you still have a void just add some with your finger tip.


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## JackP23 (Jan 1, 2013)

Try different caulking...... it doesn't all tool out the same. I have my go to products for different applications. I'll drive across town to get my favorite tube, because I know how it behaves and I'm confident with the finished product it'll produce. Try out some different brands/blends. The most expensive isn't always the best one for the job. 

This goes without saying but as you're putting the job together....keep your gaps as tight as possible. Don't expect the caulking to work miracles. You'll thanks yourself when that moment of truth arrives.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

First get the tip right, as noted. For fine work, use a razor blade to cut the tip, utility knives can be tough to get the clean edges you'll need on the cut. I'll actually shape flats on the tip to match what I'm doing. One cut for the basic angle I'll be applying it at, then assuming it's a corner one flat on each side to match the angle I'll be holding it into the corner. Usually these are two 45 degree angles, but in tight spaces I may have to cut them slightly different.

With the tip cut correctly, you should be able to put down a nice clean line that just looks like a strip of piping (like decorating a cake). 

From there, don't put down way too much, and follow the tooling tips, especially what lubricant to use for which type of caulk. You should be getting better every time. Youtube could probably be helpful.


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## Kowboy (May 7, 2009)

mikewoods has got it right, but Widnex works just fine. Lay the bead, spray the Windex, spit on finger and smooth the bead. The excess will gob up on your finger. Wipe off the Windex so it doesn't streak.

Joe


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

The last time I ran silicone I just happened to be wearing latex gloves and the silicone slid right of those things like it was never on them. 

As for latex caulking if you have a tight enough gap when you wipe it with your finger you shouldn't have much caulk at all on your finger when your done. 

For me the key is the tip cut and matching the speed I lay the bead down with the flow leaving the tube. One of the tricks I have developed is rolling my finger as I pull, start with it flat and as I pull I roll it to the tip. This keeps the build up from transferring back onto the joint as I pull and I don't try to press the caulk it is a lite pressure. 

If you're caulking tops and the like you could try using DAP in the squeeze tube and it may work better for you.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

r4r&r said:


> One of the tricks I have developed is rolling my finger as I pull, start with it flat and as I pull I roll it to the tip.


That's just about the most important (and hardest to really perfect) factor. :thumbsup:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

prep is the key:
masking tape, trash bag, plenty of paper towels, water, wet sponge or paper towel, etc.

silicone:
mask edges
caulk
wet finger, smooth, wipe finger on paper towel
remove masking, drop in nearby open trash bag (this cannot be underestimated)
one more time to feather it: wet finger, smooth, wipe on paper towel

siliconized latex:
same as above, but you can just wipe your finger repeatedly on a wet sponge

polyurethane:
caulk, then don't touch it no matter what.

toilet base:
usually looks like hell no matter what. I try not to caulk it.


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## kookoomouse (Jan 31, 2013)

Boy did I read that topic wrong!
I wish I could tell you what to avoid but don't remember the name of the junk! Some sort of painters caulk? Well, between the new 8 foot sinktop and the caulk shrinking it pulled the paint off the wall about a half inch up. Just sayin, The crap I bought had no "give" factor.. It happened here at home so no biggie.
(I doubled my post count from 1 to 2!) Whoot!


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

You need a cup with water in it to dip your finger in:whistling and to store extra caulk on the top edge of it. Caulking is an art form:blink:


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## O25 (Dec 23, 2011)

A Sider friend told me to cut the tip square . Doing it like that for years now work great.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

O25 said:


> A Sider friend told me to cut the tip square . Doing it like that for years now work great.


"It's so crazy, it just might work." Might give it a try and see what happens.


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## iceman61 (Jul 26, 2007)

Like everyone else said so far, get your tip cut right first thing. After that, I'm with Kowboy if the fact that I spray the caulked joint and my finger with Windex, then tool with my fingertip. Always start the next joint to be caulked with a clean tip. Keep plenty of paper towels with you. The better you get, the less towels you need. Some caulk tools better with mineral spirits. Usually you can read the label and use whatever it recommends for cleanup to tool with, but Windex works 90% of the time for me.

Having a good caulking gun helps tremendously too. I use to always grab the cheap guns and had no choice but to spend $15 on one at Sherwin Williams one day. It is the best gun I have ever used. It will make a huge difference in your caulking jobs.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...aulks-sealants-caulking-tools/caulking-tools/

It always drives me nuts when I hire a new guy, let him do some caulking, and later find caulking all over the gun, all over the ladder, and all over the guy I left to do the caulking.


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## Daveylad (Oct 20, 2008)

This is what I do 

Cut tube nozzle with a slanting cut probably about 45 deg to form a nice nib. Then squeeze the sides of the nib end together with my pliers to squash it in to flat slot shape, trim again to make sure the finish end is flat. You can lay down a really fine bead if you squash it realy tight or a wider bead if you squash it just a bit, just make it to to suit your requirement. You can cut the nozzle as big as you like because you squash it together to form the size of bead you want. I would usually then tool it with a profiler to give a nice 45 deg chamfer, wiping the profiler after each pass with a " wonder wipe" (trade wipes that contain "isopropanol" which dissolves silicone), sometimes wrap the wonder wipe over the profiler on a bigger chamfer setting to remove excess from the wall and base without touching the bead. If siliconing outside against a rough surface, eg. around an extractor outlet, I tend to go for the welded look, letting the bead form into little ripples and then don't touch it.

Hope this helps


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## ccappaul (Dec 3, 2010)

Iceman, good call on a good gun. Twas surprised no one else mentioned it...

I didn't look at the link, I like the friction style guns rather than the ratchet junk. I agree with spending more than $ 3.00 spend as much as you have to, I have had my guns for at least 10 years, forget how much more they cost. 

As far as getting good at it ? Practice and think while your practicing, it doesn't come easy. 

Cutting an angled tip. Say 10 degrees. A couple of mentions for 45 degrees, but that would be to much for most everything for me. Cutting the tip at an angle but straight  (does that make sense?) Is important. The size you cut depends on the joint you are filling ( big enough to span the gap and rest on the solid surface. 

Then keeping the gun tipped at the same 10 degree angle so the angled tip is flat to the surface and 45 degrees out of the 2 surfaces you are caulking . Always if possible dragging the tip and letting it do most of the tooling for you.. don't put too much caulk in. It is easier to add then remove . Wet finger when tooling and don't.press the material out of the joint. ( you didn't put too much oin did you ?) 
You are just trying to stick the sides and smooth the top. 

There is no way that made sense :b. 
God luck 

Silicone for around a toilet.. not poly or latex. And D.A.P. is miserable even if you are great at it


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## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

for latex caulk, I wipe my finger with a wet terry towel. If you're caulking a lot, keep a rinse bucket with a couple in there. It's all about smooth even strokes - both when applying and tooling. Keep your finger clean and wet. Don't put down so much that you're taking a bunch out.

Use a GOOD dripless caulk gun. Don't use the tip cutters - I use a razor knife to cut the tips. Sherwin Williams has a really nice all plastic black and yellow gun which is great for latex, but I use a lot of urethane and silicone so I get use the one that looks similar but is all metal. It's good for both. If you're tooling urethane use a thinner rag instead of water, and take extra care that you're not picking any up on your finger or you'll be sorry!

Maybe I'll make a caulk video


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## Millworker (Jan 17, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> Every trade is like that...that's what separates trades and rocket science.:whistling



No they aren't. There are people that can just never learn a trade. There are people who were born to be ditch diggers. Usually people who lack common sense.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Millworker said:


> No they aren't. There are people that can just never learn a trade. There are people who were born to be ditch diggers. Usually people who lack common sense.


Ditch digging isn't a trade?


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## Millworker (Jan 17, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> Ditch digging isn't a trade?


I suppose lol


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Lemme make a scientific analysis with our findings...

Trades are something anyone can do and learn with practice.

Ditch digging is a trade.

People born without common sense are doomed to be ditch diggers.

Therefore tradesmen lack common sense.

Welcome to CT. :laughing:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Millworker said:


> No they aren't. There are people that can just never learn a trade. There are people who were born to be ditch diggers. Usually people who lack common sense.


The sky is blue:blink:


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## Millworker (Jan 17, 2013)

Perhaps we should go by Skilled Trades rather then "Trades"...:laughing:


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## Millworker (Jan 17, 2013)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> The sky is blue:blink:


Man your on me like nugent on a minor! :no:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Millworker said:


> Man your on me like nugent on a minor! :no:


Dude you went off topic again:blink: Like I said the age of consent over here was 14 till 5 or 6 years ago, it went up to 16! I never tell a 32 year old lady what a cute baby she has because it's more than likely her grand baby. Do you feel the same way about John Walch you know from Americas most wanted? Search the web and you will never find his wifes birth date. They have gone through big work to cleanse it out! She too was young when she had Adam. It was not uncommon in that time and still goes on today! So what? It is not illegal. The list is long on this stuff. Ted approved Pele approved and Pele's parents approved and who cares what the peanut gallery says


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## Boda (Jan 18, 2013)

Jdub2083 said:


> http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Tools---Tips/DIY-Skills/Tool-Skills/caulking--pro-tips/View-All
> 
> Some helpful info here.


That was really a good read, thanks for the link.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Is that Tim:blink:


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Millworker said:


> Maybe you should have read the following posts I made. There is no doubt someone can be proficient in other areas. This doesn't necessarily apply to anyone here but 99% of the guys I run into that say "oh I do everything" turn out to be good at nothing and complete butchers. It's not to say I am limited to indoor finish either. I choose finish carpentry because there is more of a demand for it and I am never out of work.
> 
> Again maybe read more into the thread. His explanation does not apply to indoor caulking on say a Countertop or Vanity. How many people use bond breakers or baker rods in a kitchen or bathroom application?
> 
> ...


Dont know many GCs? Many are proficient in many areas, some a superb in many areas. Same for a lot of carpenters.


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## Millworker (Jan 17, 2013)

Jaws said:


> Dont know many GCs? Many are proficient in many areas, some a superb in many areas. Same for a lot of carpenters.


I have met a few. Mostly doing custom homes who did very nice work. Even they sub contracted certain things out. Most sites I work on use various trades and not a GC. There is no doubt there is good guys out there but these days they seem to be few and far between. People seem to be more concerned about saving a buck then paying someone a little extra that's going to do a good job.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

KennMacMoragh said:


> I've tried the plastic tools and find they do a sloppy job, I can do it much neater with my finger. You might be waiting too long to smooth out your bead, run your finger over the bead right after you do a section, don't go around a whole window and then try to smooth it. The longer you wait the more it dries up which can cause lumps when you go to smooth it out. Are you cutting the tip at an angle and dragging the gun so the long point is dragging behind? I find it helps to keep some *tie wire*, rags, and a putty knife too when caulking.


?????


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Dude you went off topic again:blink: Like I said the age of consent over here was 14 till 5 or 6 years ago, it went up to 16! I never tell a 32 year old lady what a cute baby she has because it's more than likely her grand baby.


Where isn't that true? - it ain't no island exclusive.



> Do you feel the same way about J*ohn Walch* you know from Americas most wanted? Search the web and you will never find his wifes birth date. *They have gone through big work to cleanse it out!* She too was young when she had Adam. It was not uncommon in that time and still goes on today! So what? It is not illegal. The list is long on this stuff. *Ted approved Pele approved and Pele's parents approved and who cares what the peanut gallery says*


Well, that makes it OK then...
Uh, Pele is the least of butheds scores, mkeh?
He's a serial caulker (wink-wink, nod-nod)
But that's OK, because Jerry Lee Lewis got his chantilly lace from the juvenile section too...

:no::no::no:


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

Fellas, I assure you sealant installation is a trade. We perform miles and miles of sealant installation each year. However, virtually none of it is interior and certainly not "painters caulk" or "plumbers caulk". We generally stay on the exterior. Our work generally includes sealant in masonry control joints, pre-cast or tilt panel to same, site concrete expansion joints etc.

We use tools that we call "slicks" to tool the sealant after gunning sealant into a joint. Using spit, water, soapy water, blood, Windex, solvent or any other wetting agent are not appropriate methods for tooling sealant. Also, the type of sealant we use has a specific width to depth ratio that must be followed. We regularly use backer rod or bond breaker tape.

Now, I can tell you that even though I grew up in this business and have shot miles of exterior sealant, I absolutely suck at painters caulk or plumbers caulk. Almost none of the methods we use on the exterior work on the interior. I can also tell you that I regularly use a wet finger to "tool" inside caulking for my personal projects; usually spit. 

I think the one big mistake I see while installing any type of caulking or sealant is applying too much material initially; it's a lot easier to add some than it is to remove it. Other than that, my best advice is to find a method that works for you and practice.


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## Kowboy (May 7, 2009)

Supahflid said:


> Using spit, water, soapy water, blood, Windex, solvent or any other wetting agent are not appropriate methods for tooling sealant.


Supahflid:

Why?

Joe


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Supahflid said:


> Fellas, I assure you sealant installation is a trade. We perform miles and miles of sealant installation each year. However, virtually none of it is interior and certainly not "painters caulk" or "plumbers caulk". We generally stay on the exterior. Our work generally includes sealant in masonry control joints, pre-cast or tilt panel to same, site concrete expansion joints etc.
> 
> We use tools that we call "slicks" to tool the sealant after gunning sealant into a joint. Using spit, water, soapy water, blood, Windex, solvent or any other wetting agent are not appropriate methods for tooling sealant. Also, the type of sealant we use has a specific width to depth ratio that must be followed. We regularly use backer rod or bond breaker tape.
> 
> ...


exactly..there's caulking and what I like to call ''schmooing''


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## ccappaul (Dec 3, 2010)

Kowboy said:


> Supahflid:
> 
> Why?
> 
> Joe


Well, class begins today. But we are not just giving out answers. 

So riddle me this ?
What would be the intended purpose of Spraying ? Licking ? Or somehow wetting the caulk . ?

How could this ultimately affect the original purpose and intent of caulking in the first place ?

P.S. I always ! 99% of the time my finger is wet at some point when dressing / tooling a caulk joint.  just because you know it doesn't mean you can't do it


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Millworker said:


> With all do respect you put siding on. I do finish work indoors. So in reality what do you know? Your clearly not in the trade I am in. In fact I would love to see you come in and caulk a brand new kitchen counter top or vanity with a massively cut tip. The gaps I work with are never any bigger then a 1/8th and in extreme cases slightly larger. I scribe everything so there is never much need for exterior type caulking, that is what I would call a botched butcher job indoors.
> 
> I have seen plenty of clowns over the years cut the tip of their caulking gun with the spout cutter on the side. They then proceed to goop it all over the place and make a mess. The worst case being clear caulking on top of oak chair rail for a commercial restaurant.


I didn't mean to disrespect you,just that true caulking is a specialty and [I'll include myself]most of the time we aren't actually creating good working joints..more cosmetic ones..for awhile anyway

I guess the best advice I could give is read the tube


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## ccappaul (Dec 3, 2010)

Tom Struble said:


> I didn't mean to disrespect you,just that true caulking is a specialty and [I'll include myself]most of the time we aren't actually creating good working joints..more cosmetic ones..for awhile anyway
> 
> I guess the best advice I could give is read the tube


I'll include myself with Tom, it was disrespectful to be called out like that. A trade being interior or exterior has no bearing on a man's knowledge, capability, craftsmanship or pride in his work.


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