# Huge gaps in newly installed hardwood floor



## colinfitz (Mar 17, 2013)

We have a client in Marstons Mills on Cape Cod with a random width wood floor and the filler is crumbling and coming out. The floor is only two years old, but was obviously installed improperly. Is there any good way to repair it?


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Looks like it wasn't properly nailed or major movement in wood substrates. Might also be due to extra large width boards contracting, you did say random width right?

Sounds like you should start at the wall take up all the boards, knock the fasteners back out and relay the floor. At least now you know it's acclimated. May also want to glue and nail it this time.

Also is this over a crawl space that was previously damp or something like that? The problem is water/humidity or fasteners.


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## A-1 Interiors (Oct 12, 2011)

Let me guess he went with the cheapest price :whistling


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## colinfitz (Mar 17, 2013)

Unfortunately No, this is a high end remodeling job. They paid good money.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

It's not "obviously" anything. If you don't know the moisture content of the floor, you don't know anything.


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## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

strip the floor and fill with Glitsa wood flour epoxy/dust mix...

if sever gapr 1/4" or more..make slivers/aka Dutchmens..
fill void with some carpenters glue and sand.

the glitza will be a perfect match if done well..

then refinish with desired color and finish..

this fill WILL hold..


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## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

ccoffer said:


> It's not "obviously" anything. If you don't know the moisture content of the floor, you don't know anything.



the floor is 2 years old...there is nothing to know anymore..

gaps like this are generally excessive moisture to dry issues..gaps are larger due sizes of boards..

now the floor will read stable..

the best fix is as I outlined above,


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I agree that there is no need to pull the floor and reset. Do what James suggested, fill and refinish.


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## B.Scott (Feb 1, 2013)

Did the client contact the original builder? Seems to me he should be fixing this one. 

If I'm seeing those pictures right it looks like the tongue is not in the groove anymore. I feel this floor should be re-laid. 

Bob


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## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

B.Scott said:


> Did the client contact the original builder? Seems to me he should be fixing this one.
> 
> If I'm seeing those pictures right it looks like the tongue is not in the groove anymore. I feel this floor should be re-laid.
> 
> Bob


wide planks will move more thus causing wider gaps which in this business are considered normal for a size..this would not be acceptable for a 21/4 strip.. but for a 5-7 inch plank it would be..there is a formula for calculating shrinkage coefficient in a certain span vs size of plank..


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## colinfitz (Mar 17, 2013)

Thank You. Is there any way to fix without stripping the floor?


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## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

colinfitz said:


> Thank You. Is there any way to fix without stripping the floor? BTW, I'm will be putting a link to website on my blog


not with any conventional fillers and not with the epoxy..it needs to be sanded for this..
the only thing you can try which would be very tedious if at all possible is to make the slivers and get them flush in the voids which means taking all old filler out first..

getting them in flush to surface and staining at minimum..re coating floor area..

i wouldn't touch that as an option


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## B.Scott (Feb 1, 2013)

jamestrd said:


> wide planks will move more thus causing wider gaps which in this business are considered normal for a size..this would not be acceptable for a 21/4 strip.. but for a 5-7 inch plank it would be..there is a formula for calculating shrinkage coefficient in a certain span vs size of plank..


I agree wood moves. All I see Is one small area of the floor. I assume the whole floor looks like that. I'd re-lay it.
We don't know how wide the gaps are or how wide the flooring is. 
Any gap where the tongue and groove separate is too big. Doesn't matter the width of the plank. is it separated here? OP needs to respond.


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## B.Scott (Feb 1, 2013)

jamestrd said:


> wide planks will move more thus causing wider gaps which in this business are considered normal for a size..this would not be acceptable for a 21/4 strip.. but for a 5-7 inch plank it would be..there is a formula for calculating shrinkage coefficient in a certain span vs size of plank..


I disagree that his gaps considered normal for 5-7 inch plank. 









If it posted above that is five inch face, qtr white oak, no gaps, Installed for six months. 

Your earlier post on the moisture meter is good advice. 

Bob


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

colinfitz said:


> Thank You. Is there any way to fix without stripping the floor? BTW, I'm will be putting a link to website on my blog


??? !!! Dont be a ho, bro. Lol


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## colinfitz (Mar 17, 2013)

No problem, had a brain skip, did look a little crappy. Just took the link out. Sorry.


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## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

B.Scott said:


> I disagree that his gaps considered normal for 5-7 inch plank.
> 
> View attachment 88932
> 
> ...


Bob,

firstly..quartersawn expands through the thickness..not the width..
2nd ..it is guidleline as to what is considered a normal void or opening..NWFA guideline.

3rd.
that same guideline adjusts according to species and width.

does it mean it cant be avoided? no...in most circumstances..some species will open no matter what.,.Maple is one of them.

an 1/8" gap between boards of 5 and wider may be considered normal if the closse during expansion months or at least considerably.

the T&G showing isnt showing here..the filler is..and if you have a 1/8 gap..you will see the tongue..its only logical..doesnt change the guidleline.

refer to NWFA plank shrinkage so you can read it yourself.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

I would put my money on the best fix......pull it up ,relay it. Call it a day.


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## colinfitz (Mar 17, 2013)

Gaps like this are all over the floor. It's hard to see in the picture but this gap is about 3/8" and I can see the full tongue and down to the subfloor.


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## B.Scott (Feb 1, 2013)

colinfitz said:


> Gaps like this are all over the floor. It's hard to see in the picture but this gap is about 3/8" and I can see the full tongue and down to the subfloor.


Then follow advice from me and others and relay floor. 

Btw, that looks like quarter or rift sawn lumber. Is it?


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> How is that more clear? You just stated you opinion. To clarify would be to explain why it would be pointless.














Tom Struble said:


> could you explain that?:blink:














ohiohomedoctor said:


> I have video proof and signed affidavits from the new pope...











fftopic:


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> fftopic:



:laughing::laughing:

Thanks man....
I needed a good laugh!

:laughing::laughing:

A site full of a$$holes...
I love this place.:thumbup:


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

Did op mention what is used to heat house .


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

> I believe there were wet subfloors and conditions underneath


Oh. I "believe" things too. I don't confuse faith with fact, though.

You know nothing about this job. You have a hard on for dumping on other mechanics as a means of feeling good about yourself. 

Weak and dumb.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> There is simply no point to nit picking everyone for no reason with no benefit to anyone.


He said he was clarifying it, there was no clarity. Why would it be pointless to lay the same flooring? That's a pretty straight forward question. It's not nitpicking and the benefit would be to understand his reasoning for tossing the whole floor. I mean it was mentioned by others to pull it and re-lay it. So we have two different opinions and I just asked for clarity. I guess for people like you who know everything there is no benefit, but for us that don't, would like to know why two different professionals say two different things.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> He said he was clarifying it, there was no clarity. Why would it be pointless to lay the same flooring? That's a pretty straight forward question. It's not nitpicking and the benefit would be to understand his reasoning for tossing the whole floor. I mean it was mentioned by others to pull it and re-lay it. So we have two different opinions and I just asked for clarity. I guess for people like you who know way more than I do there is no benefit, but for us that arent as knowledgable, we would like to know why two different professionals say two different things.


That's better.


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## smeagol (May 13, 2008)

That floor might need an old school rope job.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

I have not read this whole thread...

But, without knowing the grade & condition of the flooring when it arrived, or was it acclimated properly, were there problems with the substrate, and was it properly installed, all this banter is just that....

If the floor has had that much shrinkage & is cupping not much of an option left buy to tear it out, evaluate site conditions & properly reinstall a new floor.

Remember your REPUTATION....:thumbup:


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## ernesto (Apr 11, 2011)

Must be job specific and include specific details about issues and possible effects of the sub-standard condidions. 


WAIVER OF RESPONSIBILITY 

Customer__________________________ Jobsite Address__________________________ 
__________________________ __________________________ 
__________________________ __________________________ 

Contract # and date__________________ 
__________________ 

Conditions and/or subsurface structure on the above referenced job have been found to be at variance with acceptable conditions necessary to extend our usual guarantee on the hardwood flooring we have contracted to repair/install. The condition(s) noted are: 

_____________________________________________________________________________ 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
______________________________________________________________________________ 
______________________________________________________________________________ 

This is to advise you that we will not proceed with the installation until the conditions described above have been corrected, except on your specific instructions. Your countersignature below confirms your instructions to proceed and confirms that you assume full responsibility for defects in the completed installation and/or finished hardwood floor which may arise from these conditions. 

Flooring Contractor______________________________________________________________ 


Customer’s Signature_____________________________________________________________ 


General Contractor’s Signature_____________________________________________________


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