# Proper Pvc Cleaning And Gluing



## SPEEDSQUARE (Dec 29, 2006)

I Sometimes Help A Semi Retired Plumber With My Spec House Projects. I Have Had Several Drips Upon Water Testing The Waste Lines. My Process Is , Cut The Pvc, Wipe Burrs Off With Hand As Well As Any Apparent Dirt, Purple Prime Then Glue Immediately And Hold Tight For A Few Seconds. I Know This Is Not Rocket Science. I Have Noticed That Sometimes His Glue Gets Turned Over And Some Trash Will Get In It, Could This Be Our (my) Culprit. How Critical Is Dryness,cleanliness . Any Tips Would Be Greatly Appreciated


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## JamesNLA (Jun 2, 2006)

You have drips from PVC drain lines at solvent connections?

Umm, it kinda takes a lot to mess that up. I dunno, maybe not enough solvent? Or dirt on the POC, but one would have to be pretty lame to put primer/solvent OVER a dirt clod, than attempt to make a connection. FOr the sake of my own blood pressure, Maybe just not enough solvent!!


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

That "wipe burrs off with hands" worries me a little. Ridgid makes a tool to chamfer the end of the pipe a bit. You can do the some thing with a knife too. If you have a hard sharp edge on the end of the pipe, that can scrape off the glue on the inside of the socket and push it forward as you insert the pipe into the fitting. For this reason, it is always advisable to insert the pipe and also give it a bit of a twist to distribute the glue more evenly throughout the joint.

Also, if you're trying to glue up wet pipe or wet fittings, you're causing some of your own trouble. There is special glue for wet situations, if you absolutely have to do that. Dry your fitting bells and the pipe ends first. I was working in the rain two weeks ago, and I went through a great many rags drying off the bells and spiggots before I made up the joint. I kept my dry rags stashed inside my jacket to keep them dry until I needed one.


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## cmwacasey (Aug 13, 2006)

dryness and cleanliness is critical,along with a fulll and square connection.that being said,are you priming and gluing both ends of conection?


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## Ron The Plumber (Oct 10, 2006)

mdshunk said:


> That "wipe burrs off with hands" worries me a little. Ridgid makes a tool to chamfer the end of the pipe a bit.


Twenty Two years and never used this tool, never had a problem, as long as the pipe is square, clean, prime and glue pipe and hub, twisting 1/4 turn, hold for 5 sec.


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

Also, if you're trying to glue up wet pipe or wet fittings, you're causing some of your own trouble. There is special glue for wet situations, if you absolutely have to do that. Dry your fitting bells and the pipe ends first. I was working in the rain two weeks ago, and I went through a great many rags drying off the bells and spiggots before I made up the joint. I kept my dry rags stashed inside my jacket to keep them dry until I needed one.[/quote]

hunk i assume you are doing no pressure joints (since you are an e1)
dont drive yourself nuts w/ drying (though be diligent) glue/ primer ins 
oil based & will dislace moisture..


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

my routine.

1. sawzall all pipe (clean square cuts are KEY @ allow for proper joined surface area)

2. deburr - rag

3. prime -- allow to sit as this is the first step (primer softens the pipe in addition to cleaning) i like to prime the date stamps off my joints

4. glue -- then twist to expell air bubbles

5. allow proper curing time for handling & pressure check (before backfill)

i have some cements that will set in 10sec, underwater set, or all weather. all weather meaning it can stay in my truck in sub freezing weather & not "snot" on me

my personal pref is clear glue & primer above grade (exception of commercial & municipal, where inspector is looking) 

ray


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## JPF (Dec 20, 2006)

SPEEDSQUARE said:


> I Have Noticed That Sometimes His Glue Gets Turned Over And Some Trash Will Get In It, Could This Be Our (my) Culprit.


Sounds like it to me.....did custom pools for many years, and saw this situation many times. The owner of the company's brother, of all people, would drop his brush in the dirt, then just keep on glueing!!!!....he'd say " it gives it more grip"!!!!! LOL!!! Then he'd quit laughing when he was back there cutting everything apart and redoing it after it failed inspection!!!!! Also, water will tend to be problematic if it's real wet.....slight amounts shouldn't be an issue. And ALWAYS give yer joints a good 1/4 to 1/2 turn......does make a difference!!!


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

mdshunk said:


> That "wipe burrs off with hands" worries me a little.


I'm with md on this, one little burr and you could have a leak and in electric work, inside burrs, especially on metal conduit become a wire stripper. I've been using the Vargus de-burring tool for copper, metal, aluminum and pvc, bought it 22+ year ago and still have it and still use it.


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

Originally Posted by *SPEEDSQUARE*  
_I Have Noticed That Sometimes His Glue Gets Turned Over And Some Trash Will Get In It_


_ughh i call those $9 puddles:sad: _


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

anybody hanging the bigger stuff

4 inch plus? sched 40 and up?

ive been using a router to slightly bevel pipe end, what a difference they drop right into the slip


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I use a rag and acetone as a cleaner. I'm pretty sure that this is what the primer is, just dyed for inspection purposes.

My suspicion is that you are trying to save a few bucks by not being liberal enough during the glue application. If you want to keep it neat, grab the acetone rag and wipe up the excess.

There's not much excuse for leaking waste systems as the pressure is minimal.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Just to add on, make sure you aren't using the generic "All Purpose" cement that they claim can be used for CPVC, PVC, ABS. Also, if the temp drops use the cold weather cement.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Teetorbilt said:


> I use a rag and acetone as a cleaner. I'm pretty sure that this is what the primer is, just dyed for inspection purposes.


Teetor, I'm pretty sure the cleaner is MEK. Methyl ethyl ketone. Any plumbers got a can handy?


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

My MSDS book on the truck says it's mostly tetrahydrofuran, whatever that is.


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

Im with the other guys, clean clean. I usually use abs it seems like its easier. And Ive gone into a lot of houses and seen pvc fittings cracked im not sure what would cause this though? 

Dave


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

MEK is related to polyesters, not so much to polyvinylchloride's. Treat the stuff with respect.


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## gitnerdun (Nov 1, 2006)

"spin n grin" is what I say. For deburring PVC DWV, I use a scrap piece of same size pipe to run over the end of pipe and knock the burrs off.


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## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

> Purple Prime Then Glue Immediately


This might be the problem. Too much primer can keep the solvent weld from taking place if you have puddles of primer in the socket. Use primer liberally, but not enough to puddle. 

Its best to let the primer 'flash' off before applying the glue. Even if the primer dries, its done its job, but the glue can't do its job in puddled primer.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

mdshunk said:


> My MSDS book on the truck says it's mostly tetrahydrofuran, whatever that is.


I have a can of "Oatey" and lists contents as: MEK, tetrahydrofuran, cyclohexanone, and acetone.

Warning label: repeated overexposure can cause damage to brain, nervous system, reproductive system, respiratory system, mucous membranes, liver and kidneys.
Glad I'm not a plumber!


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## Lmlsoccer (Jan 25, 2008)

*pvc vs abs*

You said it was drain pipe you were working on but you were using "purple" cement. The purple stuff is for PVS but drain pipes are usually ABS.


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

What the hell is PVS?


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## smellslike$tome (Jan 22, 2006)

*spin The Pipe!*


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Maybe the OP has picked up some
skills in the last 25 months? :laughing:


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## RopeaGoat (Sep 21, 2007)

TimNJ said:


> I have a can of "Oatey" and lists contents as: MEK, tetrahydrofuran, cyclohexanone, and acetone.
> 
> Warning label: repeated overexposure can cause damage to brain, nervous system, reproductive system, respiratory system, mucous membranes, liver and kidneys.
> Glad I'm not a plumber!


 
I always thought this was one of the perks of being a plumber *TWITCH* * TWITCH*:thumbup:

Anywho, this is why I prefer ABS... one glue and 30 seconds that pipe & fitting are partners for life. I can't stand the extra steps with PVC. Just my humble opinion. Regardless though the fittings and pipe need deburring and to be clean & dry.


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## Putty Truck (Oct 6, 2007)

I use the clear PVS glue and primer now, which takes care of a few problems. 

I haven't used ABS in years. I see way more ABS breaks due to stress than anything. In fact, I had a 3" ABS coulping yesterday that I replaced with PVC and the ho loved it.


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## AJX4 (Jan 17, 2008)

The first generation of plumbers who are exposed to VOC's regarding the cleaner and cement of PVC pipe and fittings in a full career hasn't yet made it to retirement. We'll know soon enough if the warning labels are up to snuff in how dangerous the product really is. 8 minutes of exposure to any foul/strong odor usually causes nasal membranes to hide the smell. This is why customers or other people in the building/structure make comment to how strong the odor is when they first approach, all the while you don't even realize it's there. Read up on VOC's as it pertains to a serious situation. I use a fan for air movement, open windows at every given chance. 

If you're air or water testing your system before recommended dry/cure times or working in conditions that involve low/cold temperatures, this will cause premature failure of solvent weld connections.


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## wrenchman (Jan 5, 2008)

TimNJ said:


> I have a can of "Oatey" and lists contents as: MEK, tetrahydrofuran, cyclohexanone, and acetone.
> 
> Warning label: repeated overexposure can cause damage to brain, nervous system, reproductive system, respiratory system, mucous membranes, liver and kidneys.
> Glad I'm not a plumber!





OMG, that explains why some of those plumbers I see at the supply house look like that, too much priming.


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