# 8 1/2 ft walls best practices



## bob_cntrctr (Jan 30, 2008)

Gentlemen,

Thinking a lot about drywall these days, trying to adopt best practices.

Lesson learned about the usefulness of lifts.

Next - I think it's time to move on horizontal sheet hanging like the pros, instead of vertical like I've always done.

Now, vertical - studs on 16" centres for joints, cut the sheet length to ceiling height, place ragged cut end at the floor where it'll be covered up by baseboard, and the clean original end at the ceiling for a nice finish on the corner. Easy.

But horizontal.....I've got 104" ceilings. 8' 8". OK, so I use 54" sheets, for 108 total. 

If I take the 4" off the top of the top sheet, then I've got the tapered factory edge at the floor which may cause the baseboard to install at a a slight non-vertical angle when the foot of the baseboard is pressed in.

If I take the 4" off the bottom of the bottom sheet, well, there I am with the factory tapered edge up at the ceiling to finish. Even if there's going to be crown moulding, that taper's gotta get flattened out or it'll look like heck.

What would you do?

Thanks.


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## ChimneyHill (Apr 10, 2011)

First full sheet is installed tight to the ceiling. Factory tapered edge gets filled with tape and first coat of mud.

Second sheet is cut at the bottom with a half inch or so gap and lifted up tight to top sheet.

I always thought vertical sheets were only in commercial with metal studs.


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## bob_cntrctr (Jan 30, 2008)

ChimneyHill said:


> I always thought vertical sheets were only in commercial with metal studs.


Funny - my first construction job was in commercial, building interior office walls in office buildings, many decades ago, with pre-papered panels on metal studs. Plastic ribbons went over the seams, since, clearly, being pre-papered, there could be no mudding or finishing. Yep, all vertical.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Upper angles are easier to get taped / mudded with the tapered edge. I almost never hang sheet rock vertical. The few times I do, I try to make sure the seam falls in a stud bay, if possible.

Ignoring flex, It's easier to tape and finish the seam 4' off the floor on a horizontal install - less back bending compared to vertical.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Take 2" off each sheet...the top and the bottom sheet. Now that is as pro as it gets:thumbup:


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## ChimneyHill (Apr 10, 2011)

iDAHOchris said:


> Take 2" off each sheet...the top and the bottom sheet. Now that is as pro as it gets:thumbup:


Seems like extra work to me.... Twice as many cuts :blink:

Do you cut the factory bevel off the ceilings too?


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

ChimneyHill said:


> Seems like extra work to me.... Twice as many cuts :blink:
> 
> Do you cut the factory bevel off the ceilings too?


 on one side usually..


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## bob_cntrctr (Jan 30, 2008)

iDAHOchris said:


> Take 2" off each sheet...the top and the bottom sheet. Now that is as pro as it gets:thumbup:


Why does IDAHO never have an entry in the Miss America pageant?

'Cause no one wants to be Miss I Da Ho!


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## bagtowall (Jul 11, 2011)

Come over the pond and get half and half boards. One tapered edge, one square edge. 


Just as a matter of interest, whats wrong with fixing drywall vertically. Its normal practice over here.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

bagtowall said:


> Come over the pond and get half and half boards. One tapered edge, one square edge.
> 
> 
> Just as a matter of interest, whats wrong with fixing drywall vertically. Its normal practice over here.


So is driving on the wrong side of the road. :thumbup:


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## bagtowall (Jul 11, 2011)

Ha ha, you're right I'll try driving on the right side today and see how that works for me.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

bagtowall said:


> Come over the pond and get half and half boards. One tapered edge, one square edge.
> 
> 
> Just as a matter of interest, whats wrong with fixing drywall vertically. Its normal practice over here.


I know we would use it. wonder why we cant get that rock over here.


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## bagtowall (Jul 11, 2011)

Start a CT email campaign and send it to the US manufacturers. If people want a product and are willing to pay, it will get made. I'm sure the cost of modifying the tooling is tiny compared to the revenue it will create.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

bagtowall said:


> Start a CT email campaign and send it to the US manufacturers. If people want a product and are willing to pay, it will get made. I'm sure the cost of modifying the tooling is tiny compared to the revenue it will create.


 CT email acct.??/ Tell me more..


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## bagtowall (Jul 11, 2011)

Get a generic statement something along the lines of;

To whom it may concern, 
One of the most easily remedied profit leakages we face whilst hanging drywall is filling the tapers on boards fixed horizontally to allow flat and plumb skirting/base boards and internal ceiling/wall joints. Would you as manufacturers consider making 'half and half' (one tapered and one square edge boards). There is a real market for it.


Or something similar, then get as many CT users as possible to copy and paste it into their own email and send it to the biggest manufacturers, customer service email addresses.

It's got to be worth a try?!


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## Sweebs (Jan 31, 2011)

I would just hang horizontally, full sheet at top, full sheet at bottom and filler piece in middle = one wide joint to mud half way up the wall (I'd post a picture if I knew how), but I'm sure you get the idea


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## Sweebs (Jan 31, 2011)

like this


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

People argue for and against vertical application of dw versus horizonal. I like the less mudding with horizonal, but I don't care much for butt joints. I guess butt/backer boards would help with that. I don't think I have even seen any of them around here.

Or maybe I just need to do more dw to get comfortable with butt joints.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Try the trim-tex buttboard... They really work well for me:thumbsup:


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