# Goodman condensing unit



## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

Just open service valves on 3 ton a/c unit. When we popped the suction side freon flew straight out.also when in vacuum you take service valve cap off suction side you can feel vacuum pulling and service valves closed tight. What i did wrong or is something else wrong.


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

Hello Jesse, I'm sure you'll get all the help you need.:no:. Good luck, welcome to CT. I know nothing of hvac so no help.


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

Thank you sir


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

Dry charge for a 22 system? I always remove the shraeder cores prior to any brazing to not melt the seals which will cause leaking. 

Explain in detail the install. I'll tell you where you "messed up" for lack of a better phrase.


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

Thanks Doc,I was just going to bump it back to the top, I figured you would try to help him.


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

You're welcome and no problem. I'm always down to help.


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

jesse5 said:


> Just open service valves on 3 ton a/c unit. When we popped the suction side freon flew straight out.also when in vacuum you take service valve cap off suction side you can feel vacuum pulling and service valves closed tight. What i did wrong or is something else wrong.


Why it's always best to perform a nitrogen pressure test BEFORE opening any valves. That way you know right off the bat where the leak may or may not lay. I'm betting it's due to the shraeders which you didn't remove prior to brazing due to excessive heat during the brazing. 

you melted the o-rings. 

Now you need to replace them and since the vavles are open already, vacuum the entire system (valves open so condenser/compressor as well) after a nitrogen pressure test to confirm no leaks. 

And triple evac that thing now that it has moisture in it.


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

I did take the scradier pins out its it possible the rubber seal got to hot on the suction side isolation valve and if so how hard is it to fix i did wrap it with a wet cloth and had torch on it for a miniumal amount of time i appreciate your time and knowledge ive been hanging duct for 20yrs but with the decline in new const. Im trying to learn the other aspects of this trade again thank you.


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

Also amen to the lord above tm an alcohlic with 8yrs of soberity and all i had to do was ask that simple and i was at the bottom


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

Explain in exact detail the steps taken. Regardless, what's done is done. Now we nee need to determine where the leak is, how to isolate it, a.nd how to correct the problem.


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

jesse5 said:


> Also amen to the lord above tm an alcohlic with 8yrs of soberity and all i had to do was ask that simple and i was at the bottom


You aren't the only one. I'm not going to get deep with this but yes, I know.


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

i brazed indoor coil then took out scradier pins on condenser brazed condenser pull vacuum down to -30 stopped vacuum after 1 hr(only line set 10 foot long)let set (had no nitrogen) stopped vacuum held at -30 for 20 minutes no leak unhooked gauges put pins back in uncap service ports started to release suction side freon was coming from inside service port straight up proceded to back valve back down tight when i stuck finger on top of service port(suction side) while in vacuum you could feel vacuum


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

Seals on the suction service valve probably got over heated while brazing the line-set.


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

are the seals very hard to replace


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

can i save freon in compressor while i change suction line assemblly if i have to change it


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

You should replace the valve altogether. This would reqire you to reclaim the refrigerant. Might be able to keep system sealed with a snug fit with the service valve cap, but...


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

mr flashheatingand, only recieved part of your response. to answer you 20+yrs but 98% of that time is making and hanging duct hell my email is ductgod and service part was not what i wanted to do. i enjoyed new work where i could turn tunes on pull my shirt off and elbowe and a..holes to answer your other ? for anybody to offer help in the same trade was always a no-no to must companies i worked for the last man i had been with 6yrs and he wants us to do pm calls and actually damage unit while doing pm. sorry i dont play that. thanx for everybodies hlp


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

i got tighten service caps and nothing after that


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

If you're talking about replacing the acual service valves then there is no way to trap the refrigerant in the compressor. With the valves removed the entire coil and compressor will be open to atmosphere. 

You're going to have to reclaim it, as Flash has said, and then pump it back into the unit via a recovery machine. 

Expensive mistake, huh? My recovery machine cost $800. And the cost of R-22? 

Now you're going to really have to use some nitrogen and triple evacuate the system. You're going to have a lot of oxidation flakes and moisture in there that needs removing. Make dang skippy you use a brand new filter drier as well.


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

Triple evacuation involves shooting 2-3 psig of nitrogen into the system (leave the valves open so the compressor is included), let it sit there for 10-15 minutes, vaccum it out to a minimum of 1000 microns, shoot another 2-3 psig of nitrogen into the system, wait 10-15 minutes, vacuum and then one more time, repeat.


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## Doc Holliday (Jan 2, 2012)

Btw jesse, you may want to practice your brazing on some scrap copper. You're using way too much heat if you're burning the seals in the valves.

Not an insult of any kind, I'm just saying.


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## jesse5 (Apr 14, 2012)

for sure on that one i rember when i first started we used flux and solder didnt have cordless drills either thanx my friend


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## beenthere (Mar 5, 2009)

Might want to see if the liquid line service valve has the same problem first befoe swapping out the vapor side. If it does, then do both at the same time, and save yourself some work later.

May not be your brazing. Some of those valve are real cheaply made.


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

Maybe jumped the gun on how you braze. Don't think your the first guy to over-heat a valve or so. Just one simple tip, use a wet rag. Reason being is that wet rag helps in absorbing the heat, so, keep the valve body wrapped in a wet rag.


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