# flush doorways



## kevinv52000 (Apr 11, 2012)

I am a GC, who works by himself and does mostly carpentry stuff, I do not like or enjoy drywall, but it is must. I have a customer that i am working for, that wants the following; remove the interior doors, cut out the rough opening and make a new rough opening that will go to 93", install new door with 5/4 jambs, because of size screw the jambs to the
framing, then finish the drywall to the jamb somehow so that it is flush, no trim to cover the joint. 
One thing to consider is that we usually install door casing to help hold the door jambs in place, I do not have that luxury. Also even with big shims and three inch long screws set into the framing, i have a little wiggle of the door jamb. Thus I need a way to meet the back of the door jamb that will allow for some movement. Simply taping to the jamb will crack and will leave a fragile edge at the opening(IMO).
I am all ears to any ideas or prior experience to this. Or better yet if you are in DE, I would enjoy learning from someone, improving your skills is always a good idea. 
Thank you all for your time and efforts.


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## brick (May 8, 2012)

Just a stab at it, why not encase rough w/ drywall, add corner beads, plaster and then attach jambs( maybe with a bead of caulk), like i said just a thought!


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Part of a remodel I am starting next week is to add caseing to about 10 doors that were spackle finished to the jamb. Looks terrible every door jamb has chips and fractures where the mesh tape laid over it. And that with light occupant use. 1 Senior


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

A tear away L-bead by trim-tex?


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

were just wrappin up a house that has similar detail. The rock is 5/8 so the jambs are sized to the width of the framing. All doors were ordered with a kerf 1/2" deep in edge spaced leaving a 1/4" reveal. A piece of 7/8" L Bead is inserted in kerf and makes a clean edge for wallboard.


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## FineLineBill (Feb 5, 2013)

donerightwyo said:


> A tear away L-bead by trim-tex?


you are correct sir, caulk between the "zip" bead and the back of the jamb, use a quality caulk that will allow for some movement.


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Some were doing.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

There's a great thread on here, with pics, from last year about this. The jamb should come out flush to the outside of the drywall and have a kerf on the outside edge where it meets the drywall which, I think, was wrapped with J-bead. I'll start digging for it but maybe someone else on here remembers it. 

For some reason I think Whipple was in on it but that might be his shadow reveal baseboards I'm thinking of.

This is all I found, I might be mixing up a couple threads.
http://www.contractortalk.com/f3/flat-door-ways-116319/


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

I'm thinking that is what the J-channel stuff is for.

I would make up a jamb with the jamb sticking out proud of the sheetrock by maybe a 1/4" and see how that looks.

I always have a hard time with "flush". It seems that 4 9/16" is always too little.


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

If u have option of ordering jambs, pre kerf them for l-bead. It really is the only way to do it. J's give you extra flare on the rock, twice as much as a corner.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Element has it right.

Around here we order the doors with a kerf jamb. The jambs are flush with the framing. Sheetrock is hung about 1/2" away from the jamb (for round corners). Then kerf bead is used like these in the picture.









Personally I don't like the the look. I also don't like having the jamb up while the sheetrockers are doing their thing. The longer they are there they more apt they are to get damaged.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Slight kerf, screw jambs, prefill, tape. Let first coat dry 100%. Then finish. No bead.

Walls need to be plumb and true for this system. Better for the jambs to be too wide than not wide enough!

If you're not good at finishing just use all purpose bucket mud. You can sand your sins away.

Good luck


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