# drywall knives vs hawks



## Mavis Leonard (Mar 13, 2013)

I swichedfrom nives an pan too hawkk antrowels much better:thumbsup: any oneelse switch


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## JR Shepstone (Jul 14, 2011)

I prefer a knife and hawk over the bread pan. I've found I stay cleaner, too. 

Once you get some on the outside of the pan, it ends up on your shirt and then it's all over you before you know it.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Hawks are for plaster guys in my opinion. Every guy on our crews us pan and the ones who come to us with bad habbits quickly see the light...


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## Mavis Leonard (Mar 13, 2013)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> Hawks are for plaster guys in my opinion. Every guy on our crews us pan and the ones who come to us with bad habbits quickly see the light...




trowes rnot a bd habbit jus diffrent thy work betterfr me but whenin rome doas them


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

I've used 'em all.

Pan, hawk, trowels, and knives.

I like the hawk for skimming a room, and the pan for patching and taping.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

tenon0774 said:


> I've used 'em all.
> 
> Pan, hawk, trowels, and knives.
> 
> I like the hawk for skimming a room, and the pan for patching and taping.


Yep! I am the same. Sometimes I will use a pan, a hawk, and a trowel all on the same job!! Crazy!!


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

overanalyze said:


> Yep! I am the same. Sometimes I will use a pan, a hawk, and a trowel all on the same job!! Crazy!!


:no::laughing:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

We roll on our skim coats with a 1" nap roller and trowel down with 2' er.

I really prefer the tools the drywallers bring...


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> We roll on our skim coats with a 1" nap roller and trowel down with 2' er.
> 
> I really prefer the tools the drywallers bring...


I will have to try that sometime. Never occurred to me to achieve a skim coat that way! Of course we don't do a whole lot of skimming in house...


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## I Mester (Aug 21, 2011)

I've used a hawk and knives for almost 30 yrs. at one point I tried the pan approach. didn't like it. 
It's all a matter of personal preference.

just like the old mesh vs paper tape battle. there is no winner.


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## JR Shepstone (Jul 14, 2011)

I Mester said:


> I've used a hawk and knives for almost 30 yrs. at one point I tried the pan approach. didn't like it.
> It's all a matter of personal preference.
> 
> just like the old mesh vs paper tape battle. there is no winner.


There has to be a winner!

No participation trophies here. 

Nobody leaves til we figure this out.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

overanalyze said:


> I will have to try that sometime. Never occurred to me to achieve a skim coat that way! Of course we don't do a whole lot of skimming in house...


I do it on every job now. Only takes a little extra time and completely eliminates small imperfections and flashing.


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

if your skimming, you are loosing money if you are not spraying! I have a Mark V for level 5 finishes, fire blocking, block filler, elastomerics, and my roofer tells me i can run some of his roof products! She will pump a bucket of green full strength, just gibe it a mix first


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Pretty sure I have that same sprayer its the big bad boy we purchased for a huge warehouse job last year. I can only speak for me ofcourse but I have found the rolling to do a much better job monolithically applying the mud. Also the over spray when using mud is a huge mess and for most remodels and additions its just not worth the required prep. I am admittedly a skitso neat freak too which plays into this I'm sure.


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

you have a mark v? have you ever tried to spray mud? you will notice it atomizes quite differently than paint. spraying it just apply's it, still needs to get hit with a trowel, just like spray'n paint you should be back rolling. It will splatter much less than mud on a roller. 

then there is the best product ever called tough hide basically one thick coat of level 5, you have never seen a better looking wall in your life (with the obvious exception to an old school polished plaster job) that you will have to mask off the area for over spray, but separates the good from the great.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Will a 390 spray thinned mud? How much damage does it do to the pump?


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

world llc said:


> you have a mark v? have you ever tried to spray mud? you will notice it atomizes quite differently than paint. spraying it just apply's it, still needs to get hit with a trowel, just like spray'n paint you should be back rolling. It will splatter much less than mud on a roller.
> 
> then there is the best product ever called tough hide basically one thick coat of level 5, you have never seen a better looking wall in your life (with the obvious exception to an old school polished plaster job) that you will have to mask off the area for over spray, but separates the good from the great.


Ill take a pic of my heavey coatings sprayer in the morning. I'm not arguing whether one can do a better job with a sprayer than a roller. At the end of the day one could do either and achieve almost perfection since getting the mud on the wall is the mere objective. 

I am just pointing out for the sake of conversation that spraying creates additional prep work and a mess while rolling allows me to work in occupied spaces which is the majority of our work. Also not loading, cleaning, and setting up my sprayer makes me happy too.

To keep it real a lot of our typical process now has a lot to do with our current drywaller, western ohio drywall. This guy is AMAZING!


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

I didn't know anyone actually used pans and knives.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

overanalyze said:


> Will a 390 spray thinned mud? How much damage does it do to the pump?


Yes. Most sprayers will do it if thinned enough but the heavey duty ones will work time and time again. The durability is what your paying for in a pump, in my opinion.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Hawks are a East Coast thing...

Only time I've seen one on a drywall job a guy from NY was using it...:laughing:


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

I had a supposably experienced taper that didn't use a hawk or a pan, he like to keep his mud on a 12" knife. This is a terrible idea and anyone that says it ain't should be shot.:wallbash:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Easy Gibson said:


> I use a 6" and 12" knife.
> 
> I never use a hawk or a pan. Hate them both.
> 
> Does that mean I'm Canadian or something?





donerightwyo said:


> I had a supposably experienced taper that didn't use a hawk or a pan, he like to keep his mud on a 12" knife. This is a terrible idea and anyone that says it ain't should be shot.:wallbash:


I have seen this before on TV. 

There are times when the mud needs to be pretty thin. I don't quite understand how one accomplishes the task at hand when the mud is very thin. Seams as though it would be all over the place.......more than usual


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## IBEX Drywall (Oct 25, 2008)

*.*

I use hawk and trawl. I've used knife and pan also.

I found it very difficult to apply the mud with a knife, and was much slower, however the wiping and feathering is easier with knife.

Hawk and trawl takes some practice, curved trawls are very handy for first coat on bullnose cornerbead.
I can carry more mud on a full-size hawk, and apply it without the wrist strain that comes with using big knifes all day. I can also apply mud 30-50% faster than the fastest knife and pan guy in my crew.

Surprisingly for such a simple tool as a trawl, theres a noticeable difference between a cheap trawl and a professional one.
I use a 65$ Curry 11.5" flat trawl, I also have some cheaper marshaltown ones that just dont glide and feel quite as nice as the curry.


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## pibe (Jan 21, 2013)

overanalyze said:


> So what do you put your mud in?


A lot of people use hawk and knife.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

pibe said:


> A lot of people use hawk and knife.


I know...my reply was to Easy Gibson. He said he didn't use a hawk or a pan...


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## pibe (Jan 21, 2013)

overanalyze said:


> I know...my reply was to Easy Gibson. He said he didn't use a hawk or a pan...


Hahah...my fault youre right. I have seen some people use a trowel and just carry small amounts of mud on it and load it up with a knife. Cant imagine only using knives without anything to hold your mud.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Neither, I go no farther finishing sheetrock than patching a hole. I've tried, but I just can't do it...chitty results every time... :sad:


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

I use my pan light for my 3 way corners and touch up when mud is very wet:stuart:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i usually keep my mud on my sleeves..sometimes my pants too if it's a big job:drink:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

We had a drywaller years ago who would show up in a geo metro covered in mud. It was like the mud was evenly distributed about the interior and much of the exterior of this guys car. Amazing how resilient a mud blob can be In the weather. 

We used to try and figure out how the different areas got there. The consensus opinion was that he was just a slob who probably felt more comfortable in the mess because its hard to comprehend how a baseball size blog of drywall mud can get onto the hood of your car..


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

I use a hawk with knives and trowels. For small stuff I use a 6" knife off of a 12" trowel. I don't use a pan for anything. I'll load either the hawk or trowel directly from a mud bucket.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

EricBrancard said:


> I use a hawk with knives and trowels. For small stuff I use a 6" knife off of a 12" trowel. I don't use a pan for anything. I'll load either the hawk or trowel directly from a mud bucket.


I never pull mud out of a bucket with a knife:whistling I dont even bend over a bucket to get mud:laughing:


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

icerock drywall said:


> I never pull mud out of a bucket with a knife:whistling I dont even bend over a bucket to get mud:laughing:


I generally pull it out of the bucket with a scooper, not a knife. But I don't do a ton of drywall. If we are doing a bathroom, I'll do it myself. Houses and large additions get subbed. I won't even be doing my own home because it's not worth it for me.


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## Mavis Leonard (Mar 13, 2013)

IBEX Drywall said:


> I use hawk and trawl. I've used knife and pan also.
> 
> I found it very difficult to apply the mud with a knife, and was much slower, however the wiping and feathering is easier with knife.
> 
> ...




not hearda curry trowels


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Mavis Leonard said:


> not hearda curry trowels


I have a set they are out of Ca. and I have an old 5" knife I use to scoop out of the bucket and scrap goobers off the floor.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

EricBrancard said:


> I generally pull it out of the bucket with a scooper, not a knife. But I don't do a ton of drywall. If we are doing a bathroom, I'll do it myself. Houses and large additions get subbed. I won't even be doing my own home because it's not worth it for me.


small or big jobs I use a rubber seal ...keeps the mud clean  no bugers in my bucket ...


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## Mavis Leonard (Mar 13, 2013)

icerock drywall said:


> small or big jobs I use a rubber seal ...keeps the mud clean  no bugers in my bucket ...


whomak it


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

Mavis Leonard said:


> whomak it


whomak what ? the tube or the rubber ?


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

icerock drywall said:


> whomak what ? the tube or the rubber ?


The 5 gallon condom??


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

TimelessQuality said:


> The 5 gallon condom??


:laughing:


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

griz said:


> Hawks are a East Coast thing...
> 
> Only time I've seen one on a drywall job a guy from NY was using it...:laughing:


East Coast, and San Francisco. I don't know why anyone spreads anything without a hawk.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

CarpenterSFO said:


> I don't know why anyone spreads anything without a hawk.


Thinned mud (like what I use for finishing) won't stay on a hawk.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I'm not going to reinvent the wheel at this point in my life. :no: I'm sticking with a pan and knife. :laughing:


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Big Shoe said:


> I'm not going to reinvent the wheel at this point in my life. :no: I'm sticking with a pan and knife. :laughing:


Come on Shoe I'm 68 and just switched.


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

I'm 27. I've been working in construction since I was 18 and I've only seen two people (which were older white guys thou that doesn't really matter) use a hawk and trowel. The rest used a knife and pan. Guess it's just personal choice or how they were taught?


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## Greg from K/W (Jan 28, 2010)

I throw the mud on the hawk and use a 3" knife for the corners. For the main beads I start with a 10" trowel and graduate up to a 14". 

I feather each side of the seams out with that. Nice a smooth. 

Total seam width will be about 24' when I am done. You can look down the wall and not see one hump for the butt joints either. 

I only use knives for touch up and repair. I got used to trowels about 10 to 15 years ago and I can't use knives to seams any more. Its too hard on my right wrist for one thing.


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

Greg from K/W said:


> I throw the mud on the hawk and use a 3" knife for the corners. For the main beads I start with a 10" trowel and graduate up to a 14".
> 
> I feather each side of the seams out with that. Nice a smooth.
> 
> ...


That's impressive about the butt joints. I hate those so mych they are a ton of trouble. I don't think I have been in a house that doesn't have one butt Joint.


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

Part Time Taper said:


> That's impressive about the butt joints. I hate those so mych they are a ton of trouble. I don't think I have been in a house that doesn't have one butt Joint.


Part time look into butt boards from trim tex and you can eliminate butt joints.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

ToolNut said:


> Part time look into butt boards from trim tex and you can eliminate butt joints.


If you're subbing the hanging, you have to find a sub who will do it right, though. Some still just can't get the idea in their heads. We require backers - when we do it ourselves we've used rock-splicers I think they're called.


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

ToolNut said:


> Part time look into butt boards from trim tex and you can eliminate butt joints.


I have and none of our local Drywall specialty stores have them. Can someone provide a link to where I could possibly purchase some and have them shipped?

Thanks


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

try this http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=234


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

ToolNut said:


> try this http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=234


Fifty bucks a piece? Wow!


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Part Time Taper said:


> Fifty bucks a piece? Wow!


Yeah that's insane...


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

Part Time Taper said:


> Fifty bucks a piece? Wow!


12 to the box


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

donerightwyo said:


> 12 to the box


About $5 per butt joint. The use of any of the butt backers is driven by generals or by full-service drywall contractors. If you're dealing with separate hangers and finishers, it's harder to get them to use it, because it takes some labor away from the finisher and gives it to the hangers, who if they're not familiar with it don't know how to quote it and will mess it up. That's my experience anyway.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

donerightwyo said:


> 12 to the box


That's better. :laughing:


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

donerightwyo said:


> 12 to the box


Okay well that makes more sense. I would like to get a couple of those. I will see if they ship to Canada.


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

They ship to Canada and its more than what the butt boards would cost. Ill have to find a local supplier. 

I like taping much more than boarding. Ha Ha


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Part Time Taper said:


> They ship to Canada and its more than what the butt boards would cost. Ill have to find a local supplier.
> 
> I like taping much more than boarding. Ha Ha


If you just want to try them out just to see how they work, it's easy to make up a few with a little MDF and a router or some strips of 1/4" ply. Gotta change your hanging routine, too, to put the butts between studs, not on them.


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

CarpenterSFO said:


> If you just want to try them out just to see how they work, it's easy to make up a few with a little MDF and a router or some strips of 1/4" ply. Gotta change your hanging routine, too, to put the butts between studs, not on them.


My friend who is more of a carpenter said the same thing about making some of our own. I hate but joints. LOL


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Part Time Taper said:


> My friend who is more of a carpenter said the same thing about making some of our own. I hate but joints. LOL


If you make some of your own, don't make the center groove too deep. You'll get a tapered joint with these, but if the center's too deep, it will be an 18" wide taper - better than a butt, but still a lot of work. The center of a rocksplicer looks to be only about 1.5 mm deep.


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## StrongBuilding (Mar 25, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> If you're subbing the hanging, you have to find a sub who will do it right, though. Some still just can't get the idea in their heads. We require backers - when we do it ourselves we've used rock-splicers I think they're called.


What's a rock splicer. ?? The old guy that I first worked with said that he would double up all his joints on ceilings with a peace of rock. He would put mud on one side a slid it upthen put some mud on the next sheet going up. He said his seams finished out great. Seems like it would be awesome for fire proofing.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

StrongBuilding said:


> What's a rock splicer. ??


Rock Splicer is just the brand name of one of the butt joint backers we were discussing in this thread.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

So if you use this rock or butt splicer.... is it a one blade/pass with what width blade... a 12?? or what's the usual finish.

You obviously still tape it right?

To get the "bend", how far off a stud do you have to be in general. I would guess you'd like it near the center of the stud bay... but if you have a sheet landing say 4" off a stud, will it still work.

If you were hanging vertical (or repairing), it would't work on a horizontal butt joint between studs would it.???

Thanks for your experience


Peter


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> So if you use this rock or butt splicer.... is it a one blade/pass with what width blade... a 12?? or what's the usual finish.
> 
> You obviously still tape it right?
> 
> ...


You finish like a regular factory taper joint. They work well!


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

CarpenterSFO said:


> If you just want to try them out just to see how they work, it's easy to make up a few with a little MDF and a router or some strips of 1/4" ply. Gotta change your hanging routine, too, to put the butts between studs, not on them.


Bob.... I was trying to really see how these splicers work... mainly because I'm the world's slowest taper and I do alot of small remodel type work myself.

You said make one with a router. Did you really mean a router... can't figure out how'd you do that.

Looks like it's maybe 4" wide, and you said the total groove depth was about 1.5 millimeter. If I understand this thing, wouldn't you just take two rip passes down it at 2" blade height at maybe 2-3 degree cant/bevel.

Maybe I don't understand it

Thanks... Peter


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

I've made them with osb rips, about 8" wide and then staple a couple paper shims on each edge..

The trimtex ones seem to work a little better though


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

TimelessQuality said:


> I've made them with osb rips, about 8" wide and then staple a couple paper shims on each edge..
> 
> The trimtex ones seem to work a little better though


Those would be excellent to use. I need to find somewhere near me that sells that stuff.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

I use osp 6 in wide then I staple 1/8 shims on both side


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Bob.... I was trying to really see how these splicers work... mainly because I'm the world's slowest taper and I do alot of small remodel type work myself.
> 
> You said make one with a router. Did you really mean a router... can't figure out how'd you do that.
> 
> ...


The first time I did this I made them out of a width of MDF, with a very shallow, wide dado in the middle made with multiple runs, in order to to imitate the rocksplcers, but Icerock and Timeless's suggestions are easier - a width of ply or osb or mdf, with shims running down the sides. Paper shims stapled works pretty well.
These work like a factory tapered joint, but they're not as even, which is a good reason to keep them shallow. If you get over-enthusiastic about the depth, you end up with an uneven, deep, very wide joint. Try to get in the middle of the stud bay, it might work within 4 inches of the stud, but the concept is that the rock has to bend back, so too close won't work. Yes, you tape just as for a factory joint, and no, it doesn't work across studs.


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## StrongBuilding (Mar 25, 2013)

Thanks Bob ; even I'm beginning to understand it now.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

CarpenterSFO said:


> The first time I did this I made them out of a width of MDF, with a very shallow, wide dado in the middle made with multiple runs, in order to to imitate the rocksplcers, but Icerock and Timeless's suggestions are easier - a width of ply or osb or mdf, with shims running down the sides. Paper shims stapled works pretty well.
> These work like a factory tapered joint, but they're not as even, which is a good reason to keep them shallow. If you get over-enthusiastic about the depth, you end up with an uneven, deep, very wide joint. Try to get in the middle of the stud bay, it might work within 4 inches of the stud, but the concept is that the rock has to bend back, so too close won't work. Yes, you tape just as for a factory joint, and no, it doesn't work across studs.


Thanks.... Gotcha... In so far as much as I enjoy taping....I'm dying to try it.... and appreciate the advice.... Peter

Never stop learning


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## StrongBuilding (Mar 25, 2013)

OK, its morning. Had my coffee and went back thru this. I'm understanding it pretty good. Probably impossible to get them up here. But I can make them as you guys described. . In the long run on the house I'm working on now it will save time. I haven't found a wall in the place yet that was laid out right so I've been having to cut every sheet. 

Thanks for putting up with my dumb?


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

I use both hawk and trowels and pan and knives. 12x4.5" and 14x4.5" trowels for bead and skimming I find it doesn't have the flex that broad knives do and leaves a fuller coat plus I can get more footage done with trowels that way, in between 2nd and third on bead we some times do a cheater coat with 6" knife, back in the days before we used boxes hawk and trowels we mostly used for all hand coating butts, flats and bead. Knives and pans for nail spotting, inside odd angles, 3 ways, wiping tapes, I have on occasion had to use a broad knife on some 3 ways if they look crappy still.


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## StrongBuilding (Mar 25, 2013)

So, I made some rock splicers today from some 3/8 cdx I had on site and some 2x stock ripped to 1/8 th" thick. I stapled them to the cdx with a hammer tacker. I ripped the ply 8" wide x 48" . I think I'll try to rip some 2x stock a little thinner . It takes a little bit to get used to installing them. But its no problem once I figured a couple things out. I don't know who the knuckle head was that laid out the walls. But he didn't have the sheet rockers best intrest in mind. Not a wall in the whole house from any direction comes out on even feet. .


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## Part Time Taper (Sep 2, 2012)

StrongBuilding said:


> So, I made some rock splicers today from some 3/8 cdx I had on site and some 2x stock ripped to 1/8 th" thick. I stapled them to the cdx with a hammer tacker. I ripped the ply 8" wide x 48" . I think I'll try to rip some 2x stock a little thinner . It takes a little bit to get used to installing them. But its no problem once I figured a couple things out. I don't know who the knuckle head was that laid out the walls. But he didn't have the sheet rockers best intrest in mind. Not a wall in the whole house from any direction comes out on even feet. .


That's generally how it goes. It's even worse if you come in and are just taping and not hanging the board.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Big Shoe said:


> The Canadian finishers are the only guys I've seen down here using hawk and trowels.


 Im from Canada and I can run circles around a guy with a pan and knive with my hawk and trowel.:blink: I can see im going to have to start putting some vids up and show a few things. When im coating bead with hawk and trowel I can eat a 5 gallon pail every 20-25 mins with hawk and trowel try doing that with pan and knife plus the the knife doesn't leave a full coat like a trowel does because the trowel is stiffer. I can stick my trowel right in the pail to get mud out also where pan I have to use a 6" to get the mud in the pan 1st, when we were kids we been through all these kind of speed test, I know some tapers still even after you show them the difference they still like to use pan and knife I just shake my head and move on.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

IanB said:


> Im from Canada and I can run circles around a guy with a pan and knive with my hawk and trowel.:blink: I can see im going to have to start putting some vids up and show a few things. When im coating bead with hawk and trowel I can eat a 5 gallon pail every 20-25 mins with hawk and trowel try doing that with pan and knife plus the the knife doesn't leave a full coat like a trowel does because the trowel is stiffer. I can stick my trowel right in the pail to get mud out also where pan I have to use a 6" to get the mud in the pan 1st, when we were kids we been through all these kind of speed test, I know some tapers still even after you show them the difference they still like to use pan and knife I just shake my head and move on.


Oh boy. You're the greatest for sure. :thumbsup: (Sorry, I'm thinking out loud again)


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Big Shoe said:


> Oh boy. You're the greatest for sure. :thumbsup: (Sorry, I'm thinking out loud again)


^^ Funny


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

CarpenterSFO said:


> The first time I did this I made them out of a width of MDF, with a very shallow, wide dado in the middle made with multiple runs, in order to to imitate the rocksplcers, but Icerock and Timeless's suggestions are easier - a width of ply or osb or mdf, with shims running down the sides. Paper shims stapled works pretty well.
> These work like a factory tapered joint, but they're not as even, which is a good reason to keep them shallow. If you get over-enthusiastic about the depth, you end up with an uneven, deep, very wide joint. Try to get in the middle of the stud bay, it might work within 4 inches of the stud, but the concept is that the rock has to bend back, so too close won't work. Yes, you tape just as for a factory joint, and no, it doesn't work across studs.


I gotta ask...how do you screw a drywall screw into MDF without shearing off the head? Pre-drill the holes?


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## mnld (Jun 4, 2013)

Mountain Man said:


> I don't know about anybody else but I kinda like it over here. There is lots of good info and chatter from all the trades. DWT still seems pretty dead anyways!!


Bloody traitor! Next thing you know you'll be calling the DWT guy a$$holes like another well known DWT member!:jester::jester:

LOL


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## Kiwiman (Mar 28, 2008)

Toontowntaper said:


> Lol there is only allowed to be one token Chinese guy and I was the token one .... Then there was a influx of spammers


You're one of the good ones Toony.....hell! you can speak english better than me inch:
I blame that catdod fella, I think he was just there to open the gate, they should have got rid of him after his first post that resembled spam.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> You're one of the good ones Toony.....hell! you can speak english better than me inch:
> I blame that catdod fella, I think he was just there to open the gate, they should have got rid of him after his first post that resembled spam.


I offered for a moderator position a few years ago!:whistling


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## Mountain Man (Jun 3, 2013)

mnld said:


> Bloody traitor! Next thing you know you'll be calling the DWT guy a$$holes like another well known DWT member!:jester::jester:
> 
> LOL


Well generally speaking I think we are all a bunch of a$$holes!! Lol!!


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