# Split jamb question



## jdmartin (Dec 30, 2009)

I have a few split jamb doors to hang for someone. Stopped by this afternoon to look at them and went ahead an hung a couple. The local door shop sends them out held together with various peices of scrap casing and such stapled for support to hold it together for delivery. They also put one 6d nail through the jamb into the door to hold it shut.

It's been a while since I've hung any of these and I don't remember if they put the single nail in them last time or not. If they did, I don't remember how I took it out while hanging. Today I put the first one in, fitted it up, put a couple nails in the hinge side casing, then slide the latch side out and pulled the nail. I didn't like the strain it seemed to put on the nailed casing though. On the second, I found a piece of wood to slide into the latch hole to hold the door shut, similar to the plastic piece that comes in an exterior door to keep it shut. I stood the door up, slid the piece of wood in, then pulled the nail. When I got the door up and in place, the door was squeezed tight to the casing near the bottom hinge, and had a larger gap than normal at the top hinge. At first I thought it was just an out of square door (as that happens with this particular supplier), but the same thing happened on the next one. 

I know there's a simple reason for why the door is hanging crooked, it just hasn't hit me yet. What's the best way to pull the 6d nail holding the door shut when installing? It's been so long since I've did any split jambs, my mind has went blank.

Thanks


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## leakygoose (Dec 14, 2007)

Split jambs are junk. Anyone that makes them should be shot or for that matter anyone that buys one ,stricky a product for cheap azz homes,[moble homes?]freaking junk.


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## jdmartin (Dec 30, 2009)

For the most part, I agree. But I didn't buy them and I don't really want the folks that did to get shot. I've done quite a bit of work for them over the last couple of years. Mostly outdoor stuff.

It's strange that a door that is supposed to be easier to install is harder for me to install than a regular pre-hung.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

I haven't installed a split jamb in several years, but I don't remember ever getting one with the door nailed shut. On the next one you do, inspect it carefully before you do a thing to it. If the gap is perfectly even all around (which I doubt), but is off once you hang it, there has to be something awry with your procedure.


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## SLSTech (Sep 13, 2008)

All the crappy ones out here come with the plastic piece, no nails, just about 20 staples to pull (I have to special order my doors so I don't end up with the split system)

As I recall the directions are pretty simple
Check the floor level, (cut bottom or shim as needed) insert door side - nail off hinge side plumb
Adjust by look - nail it
Slap the other side in - nail it
Done


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## jdmartin (Dec 30, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> I haven't installed a split jamb in several years, but I don't remember ever getting one with the door nailed shut. On the next one you do, inspect it carefully before you do a thing to it. If the gap is perfectly even all around (which I doubt), but is off once you hang it, there has to be something awry with your procedure.


The nail may just be what this particular shop uses. It keeps the door together fine for travel, but is troublesome to have to pull. It would be easy to forget about it and nail the door side up and have no way to open it. They also put 1/16" or so spacers in between the door and the jamb. There's almost no way to hang one wrong...unless you pull the nail too soon. It's definately a procedure problem. I'm just thrown off as to what would cause the door to sit like it is. On the hinge side between the door slab and frame--big gap at the top, no gap on the bottom. My mind has gone blank on what causes this and how to fix it. Maybe when I go to bed, it'll come to me in my sleep. :thumbup:


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Sorry that I can't help. The last one that I did was over 10 yrs. ago. I swore that I'd never do another and my word is good.


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## Trim40 (Jan 27, 2009)

I yank the nail out when I lean the door in the opening.


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## jdmartin (Dec 30, 2009)

Trim40 said:


> I yank the nail out when I lean the door in the opening.


Which is exactly what I wound up doing. WHen I got there this morning (with a fresh mind) it hit me that it was just the door sagging on the hinges. That's not a problem, as I can straighten it up when I run some longer screws through, but it makes it a little hard to get the rest of the frame adjusted to look right. Wound up slipping a thin shim between the door and the jamb at the bottom on the hinge side. That kept everything lined up right to get it nailed up. Of course it still sagged when I pulled the shim, but again that's a problem I can fix.

Still have to go back and hang one more, they sent out a 3-0 that should have been a 2-8


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## custrel (Jun 30, 2009)

jdmartin said:


> Which is exactly what I wound up doing. WHen I got there this morning (with a fresh mind) it hit me that it was just the door sagging on the hinges. That's not a problem, as I can straighten it up when I run some longer screws through, but it makes it a little hard to get the rest of the frame adjusted to look right. Wound up slipping a thin shim between the door and the jamb at the bottom on the hinge side. That kept everything lined up right to get it nailed up. Of course it still sagged when I pulled the shim, but again that's a problem I can fix.
> 
> Still have to go back and hang one more, they sent out a 3-0 that should have been a 2-8


Did you try shimming the top hinge?


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## crovello (Sep 14, 2009)

Split jamb doors are not the best way to hang a door but the biggest problem with them is people don't take the time to hang them correctly.

Like any other door I never hang it with the door in the jamb. First thing I do is remove the door. Next check the floor for level and cut jamb accordingly. Put the main part of the jamb into the opening, check head jamb for level and hinge side for plumb. Install shims behind all hinges and tack in place. Hang door on hinges and check all margins. Shim strike side and install second jamb. Complete nailing making sure you nail thru jamb so you grab both pieces and hit shims. Move on to the next door.

I am sure I could cut the installation by 80% by skipping many of these steps but in the end you would have a crappy job that would not last. Even when taking my time I bet it takes less then 30 minutes to complete a door.


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## jdmartin (Dec 30, 2009)

custrel said:


> Did you try shimming the top hinge?


Shimming it where exactly? I shimmed the opening as needed or did you mean shimming between the door and the jamb?


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

do you have a probelm where the jamb is not perpendicular to the wall? that can happen w/ a stud is twisted (an not perp to the wall).


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## jdmartin (Dec 30, 2009)

72chevy4x4 said:


> do you have a probelm where the jamb is not perpendicular to the wall? that can happen w/ a stud is twisted (an not perp to the wall).


No, they were all surprisingly straight.

I think it was just the door sagging where I had not put any longer screws through the hinges yet. It had been a long day that day and I was having trouble putting it all together in my head. Everything cleared up by the time I finally got a little sleep. I think the longer screws will fix the problem. Now I've just got to find some longer brushed nickel screws and life will be grand.


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