# Beam Clipping



## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Caught part of a Fixer Upper episode the other day and watched as they removed a wall (like they always do) and then clipped what appeared to be a 3-1/2" x 18" x twenty-something LVL beam (perhaps it was a doubled 1-3/4" LVL) that was supported on an exterior wall under a very low slope roof (4/12 ?). It seemed like they took a lot out of the top of that beam (see image below) and it looks like the structural integrity of the beam was greatly compromised. It made me go looking for the limitations on that sort of thing. So far, no luck. I must be searching for the wrong terminology. I can't find anything in all of the notching and boring literature. Looking for some guidelines that specify the allowable cut dimensions for A, B and C.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

I guess this applies.


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Here we can't "fire cut" past the interior of the wall.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

kiteman said:


> Here we can't "fire cut" past the interior of the wall.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Translate that for me, please.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

This piqued my interest because I have almost this exact thing coming up. Just got off the phone with the Boise-Cascade engineer and he said I could take "B" down to A/2 with a 1/4" steel plate (on both sides) of 2C length. And could take it down to A/4 with 1/2" plates. He said there would be a specific bolt pattern and bolt strengths to use. This pic below is NOT the specific bolt pattern as he was walking out the door and didn't have time to sketch it out but is representative of the concept.


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

I would be calling my structural engineer, but if it's just for your own curiosity, here's a field note from the American Plywood Association. 
Figure 1 c)
http://murphyplywood.com/pdfs/engineered/APA_LVL_Hole_Drilling.pdf


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Philament said:


> I would be calling my structural engineer, but if it's just for your own curiosity, here's a field note from the American Plywood Association.
> Figure 1 c)
> http://murphyplywood.com/pdfs/engineered/APA_LVL_Hole_Drilling.pdf


Thanks. The "Sloped End Cut for Roof Drainage" is exactly what I was looking for. The Boise-Cascade engineer said the plates were for extreme situations - as much for reduced bearing surface as it was for how much stock needed to be removed.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Here is the code clip in regard to that.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

I'm certain I'll have to use the reinforcing plates. Most likely I'll have to use the 1/2" ones. I won't know until I have the beam sized but I'm guessing he'll spec a 3-1/2" x 18" LVL (or two 1-3/4" ones) to span 22 feet.


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

greg24k said:


> Here is the code clip in regard to that.




We can clip joists that much, but not headers/ lvls. What I meant was if it bears on a 6" wall, the slope (c) can only go back 6" on top. So, girder trusses are preferred.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

kiteman said:


> We can clip joists that much, but not headers/ lvls. What I meant was if it bears on a 6" wall, the slope (c) can only go back 6" on top. So, girder trusses are preferred.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes, for slope and end bearing you can only cut back the width of your wall (bearing with)

For sloped end cut or roof pitch you can cut 1/3 of the span max.

On the general note, notching should be avoided altogether if possible, BUT sometimes you can not go without it. 
Always best way to get that information is to contact the manufacturer of LVL and ask what is the best way it and how it should be done. These guys are helpful and they can provide answers on the spot but you have to have the answers to their questions available. There is also literature for every manufacturer of LVL available and you can get it on your cellphone for basic guidelines on cutting and notching.


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