# Wood stove outlet pipe height



## Hoop builder (Oct 19, 2010)

Last year, I put a wood burning stove in my shed/out building. I ran the vent/draw pipe out the wall instead of through the roof. How far above the roof line should the pipe be to get a good draw? I've heard 6 foot, 8 foot, above the tip of the roof.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

I've always worked with 3 feet above the highest point that is within a 10 ft radius.
If you bring it up at the peak, then 3 ft.
If it pokes up 6 ft away from the peak, then 3 ft above the peak.

If you can follow that, you should have no problems...


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

When the fabric shed guy starts asking about woodburning stoves...


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## Hoop builder (Oct 19, 2010)

Here now....don't want to burn my building down.


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## rex (Jul 2, 2007)

jlhaslip said:


> I've always worked with 3 feet above the highest point that is within a 10 ft radius.
> If you bring it up at the peak, then 3 ft.
> If it pokes up 6 ft away from the peak, then 3 ft above the peak.
> 
> If you can follow that, you should have no problems...


 
yup.....


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

Minimum 2 feet above anything within 10 feet.


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## concretemasonry (Dec 1, 2006)

If you do not have it high and clear enough, you cannot depend on it to draw well enough.


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## Hmrepairs (Sep 11, 2010)

I always heard the 2' above anything withing 10' rule myself.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

Hoop builder said:


> Last year, I put a wood burning stove in my shed/out building. I ran the vent/draw pipe out the wall instead of through the roof. How far above the roof line should the pipe be to get a good draw? I've heard 6 foot, 8 foot, above the tip of the roof.


 
I have been burning wood for years, I was a newb when I started, didn't know squat.

If I can suggest one thing, read, read, read. 
You'll be amazed at what you can learn, from others mistakes.

I started out just like you, up and out the wall. :no: Bad idea.

I also put the crimped connections the wrong way, what a mess. :laughing:

If you don't know you want the crimps running back toward the stove.
This lets the creosote run back to the stove, so it can burn away.

You don't really want to run it up and out unless you have too, the extra 90 degree bends really put a damper on the draw and can make it act unreliable, or just weird depending on the weather.

One more thing is that I am not sure what type of pipe your using but you should be using an insulated pipe. 
Once it leaves and hit the outside air you still need to keep it hot, 

Heat rises, you need a hot, insulated pipe (flue) to keep a good balanced, predictable draw.


After learning alot, I bought all the right stuff, expensive pipe, etc. Its worth it.



Back when I learned, I went to the library and checked out books.

Heck, now a days its, its all right at your finger tips.


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## CarrPainting (Jun 29, 2010)

I also run a wood burner in my building, tho I am looking for a larger stove...

I went stright up thruogh my flat roof, and my hieght is about 3ft.

Central localion in a shop is the best. I my self am dead center ( by luck) side to side, and about 10ft off, front to back (due to vehicle parking...)

A couple things... A straight pipe offers better draft over a bend. the air moves over the pipe and creates a suction causing the fire to roar, a bend will KILL that suction...

Also, in super windy conditions, (i have a flat roof) You need to stay by your stove till it has burned down a bit, or put it out... I heat 24/7 all winter, my stove rarely has down time except to clean out ashes... (allowing my shop to freeze would cause tens of thousands of dollars damage)

when it is super windy, 50+ mph, my stove gets wierd. I can have a RAGING FIRE one moment, and be flat out, OUT in the next.... wierd


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