# What finish for bar top???



## rockingjwolf

Hello, I am a contractor/carpenter but hope someone in this forum can help me. I am re-finishing a home bar top(mine). We bought this piece with a distressed glaze on it and under the glaze it appears to be mahogany, not the good stuff but the cheap version that they make alot of furniture out of from southeast Asia. I am going to strip it, sand it smooth and want a clear coating of some kind on it that will last. UV is not a prob. because it is inside. I have used many poly's but thought there would be something better. Any suggestions? Thanks


----------



## Frankawitz

I would use Benjamin Moore's Spar Varnish I would do shellac first do two coats of shellac, sand between each coat with 220 grit black sandpaper, then apply varnish with china hair brush, after it drys sand with 000 steel wool, in between coats, I would apply three coats of varnish.


www.frankawitz.net


----------



## WisePainter

For something like that you could use a "bar top" product from Home Depot or Lowes. I cannot recall the name of the product, or mine sometimes, because it has been awhile.


----------



## Bender

> I would use Benjamin Moore's Spar Varnish I would do shellac first do two coats of shellac,


:no::no::no:

NO shellac.


----------



## rockingjwolf

I thought spar varnish was a good idea too, but I am not sure about what bender says about shellac. Your post says two coats and then says no shellac, can you clarify?. thanks to all of you, Jeff


----------



## Dorman Painting

I would put three coats of Zar gloss poly, no sense overthinking this thing. Sand between the first coat with a worn medium grit srubby and then the next coat with a worn fine grit scrubby. All of the suggestions are good one though, but it's not that complicated IMO. Use an ox hair brush, if not at least use a white china bristle.


----------



## painterdude

if smell and drying time is a factor you can use Polycrylic..water based poly...sets up quickly and the buzz is not so bad. If this is in a basement, it's a good idea to look into. Many years ago(around 2976) I refinished a bar in a bar I worked at...at the same time me and the owner wanted to get ride of a case of Schlitz that wasn't selling...I did the bar and burried him. 6 hours of my life I'll never get back. As soon as I hit the fresh air I was fine, but have no recollection of the work and beer. pd


----------



## Forry

WisePainter said:


> For something like that you could use a "bar top" product from Home Depot or Lowes. I cannot recall the name of the product, or mine sometimes, because it has been awhile.



I've used this. Around here it's called "pour-on". Two part epoxy stuff. You wouldn't need to sand if you didn't want to. It goes on _thick._


----------



## Paintpimp

The product to use is by the company Envirotex. The smaller kits are called Pour on finish and the professional end is called Crystal. A furniture maker that supplies furniture in the Cabela's catalogs uses the Crystal. Awesome looking, tricky to use. I believe their website gives hints on how to use it. Practice first.


----------



## cooks

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M2SWNS...NQ2Q9F&tag=shopzilla_rev_1209-20&linkCode=asn Here is what you are looking for, home depot sells it. I have done this on bar tops before if done right looks like a sheet of glass. If i can get a picture i will post it up.


----------



## sparehair

Ok, so what is the trick to the epoxy?


----------



## WisePainter

sparehair said:


> Ok, so what is the trick to the epoxy?


Epoxy has a sweet spot that you gotta hit just right or you are in trouble...real quick.
Practice is the only trick to epoxy, On the job or in your own home.
I prefer on the job because that is how I roll.


----------



## Frankawitz

As for Benders post I don't know what he is talking about the Shellac gives the wood depth in the look, and it's been used on wood for hundreds of years, Shellac gives wood that Rich look to it, As for water base products think about it, you will need to refinish it every 4 years, If you want it to last for years do the Varnish and Shellac. I have restored allot of woodwork over the past 29 years, this is the way we always do our stained woodwork. Good luck, I guess Faster is Better,:laughing: instead of taking your time.


www.frankawitz.net


----------



## rockingjwolf

*Thanks to All*

I finished this job and all of you were a big help. I ended up doing 5 coats of spar varnish, sanding lightly between and 0000 steelwool before last coat. It came out great, smell almost killed me but I am not a big fan of water based finishes though I prob. could have saved a few brain cells, oh well...:thumbup:


----------



## WisePainter

rockingjwolf said:


> I finished this job and all of you were a big help. I ended up doing 5 coats of spar varnish, sanding lightly between and 0000 steelwool before last coat. It came out great, smell almost killed me but I am not a big fan of water based finishes though I prob. could have saved a few brain cells, oh well...:thumbup:



Nice!

:thumbsup:


----------



## BAForese

Ever tried Ceramathane by Graham Paints as a sealer? I heard about it recently and I'm going to try it on a commercial bar top in a few weeks. It gets rave reviews from others that I know. Any opinions on that product?


----------



## loneframer

I'm no coating specialist, but every bar I build isnt finished until its covered with EMPTIES:clap:


----------



## WisePainter

loneframer said:


> I'm no coating specialist, but every bar I build isnt finished until its covered with EMPTIES:clap:


badum.dum.tsss!


----------



## Huegymbicil

*Easier Solution...*

Use a mixture of linseed oil, spar varnish, and thinner for the first coat. Poor on liberally and rub into wood with a small piece of burlap, then wipe off access after it's soaked in for a while. Do 2 coats, wet sanding in between with 320 wet-dry paper. 

Afterward do another 2-3 coats with just spar varnish, thinned down slightly. Apply this with a brush - wipe off access only if you want a thin coat. Otherwise, if you want a thick coat just let dry.

Shellac is a good idea for 1st coat, but this method is easier and has the same affect. Don't use water base unless you want it to wear out sooner.


----------



## hoz49

Forget varnish, shellac, poly sealants etc. For a hard durable finish use epoxy. 

Here's the goods. Sorry I can't post urls yet but google US Composites Epoxy Resin

scroll down to Kleer Koat Table Top.

Make sure all old coatings/wax have been removed and wipe down with alcohol or acetone prior to application.


----------



## tcleve4911

rockingjwolf said:


> I finished this job and all of you were a big help. I ended up doing 5 coats of spar varnish, sanding lightly between and 0000 steelwool before last coat. It came out great, smell almost killed me but I am not a big fan of water based finishes though I prob. could have saved a few brain cells, oh well...:thumbup:


It didn't happen unless there are pics..........:laughing:

Glad you got it done the old fashioned way


Polycrylics.............


----------



## Nina Norris

Has anyone used Keer Koat? I'm looking for a finish for a commercial bar top. It has a round wedge so I'm wary of using envirotex, thinking it will form drips on the bottom of the rounded edge. Any suggestions?


----------

