# PVC Pipe Tool Box



## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

I am thinking of making up a tool box to be carried to the trench with everything needed to lay plastic pipe. We do everything from 1" water line with hose clamps, glued conduit and sewer pipe to 8" gasketed SDR. Anybody already have one you think works. Any tool adaptations or suggestions. 


Nick


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## RobertF (Jan 20, 2006)

Somehow quite a few of my clients found out that I can do sprinkler repairs. I set myself up with a box for each size of pipe, 1/2", 3/4" and 1". Granted that's gonna get hard to do once you pass 2" or so but you get the idea. A tote for each size pipe and a single tote for the tools and glue.


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

denick said:


> I am thinking of making up a tool box to be carried to the trench with everything needed to lay plastic pipe. We do everything from 1" water line with hose clamps, glued conduit and sewer pipe to 8" gasketed SDR. Anybody already have one you think works. Any tool adaptations or suggestions.
> 
> 
> Nick


Nick,
I'm surprised in you, usually you give more information to go on.Are you talking using one of your old lunch pails for a qt. of pvc glue with a few hose clamps and a assortment of barbed plastic fittings for your water linesor we talking the mega 20' shipping containers which is probably the size you would need to carryall this stuff.
1) Electrical Conduit Supplies
A. 1" Sched 40..... couplings, 45's, 90's ( for running to pump chambers)
B. 2" Sched 40.... couplings, 30's, 45's, 90's, caps, mouse
C. 3" Sched 40... couplings, 30's, 45's, 90's, caps, mouse
D. 4" Sched 40... couplings, 30's, 45's, 90's, caps, mouse
E. 1/4" pull rope, string, marking tape, duct tape, BTW you can never have enough couplings, get plenty! PVC cement, get a case. 

2) Hancor Pipe Fittings / SDR 35 non gasketed
A. 4" ..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, dwn .spt. caps
B. 6" ..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps

3) SDR 35 Gasketed
A. 4"..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, lube
B. 6"..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, lube
C. 8'......22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, lube
Note: Now don't forget to get a couple some 4"-6" reducers, 6"-8" reducers and various size configurations of t's and t wye's for #2 and #3

4) Sched. 40
A. 4"..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, primer and glue
B) 6"..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, primer and glue
C) 8"..... 22's, 45's, 90's, t's, t wye's, caps, primer and glue
D) 2"..... 22's, 45's, 90's, couplings, primer and glue ( for pump force mains, I know out of sequence )


Quit a list and I'm sure you're going to tell me I forgot something:laughing: On the jobs we do 95% of them I'd say are copper water lines, 3/4", 1", and 1 1/4" so there's a whole nutter big list of fittings, valves, nipples:jester: , and other doo dads flare and compression. I try to keep an inventory of what I usually use in the truck as far as the water goes. The other stuff mentioned above even though I try to keep a few in the truck I just order and send out a few extra. We do have a pretty good selection in the bin behind our Model.
I don't know Nick sounds like a pretty big box, post some pics when you get her made.:thumbsup:


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

Now how about Tools?

Nick


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

OMG............you better get a 40 footer!:w00t: No wait you have that big war wagon, you ought to be able to get every thing in there. Whats with the box idea?:whistling


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

When doing sewer jobs, we use a milk crate to carry a few rags, pipe grease, screwdriver, file and the target.


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

The IDEA is that lately I've watched alot of people lay pipe and I started to look at how we lay pipe. There is one or two guys in the trench with glue and primer. Then someone drops something and there is someone walking to the truck for a rag. Next a pipe doesn't go together for some reason? out of the trench to get something to scrape the pipe of the hardened glue. Then a cut has got a bur and the end of the pipe is hanging up on the gasket, go get??? etc. etc.

I'm watching experienced people go back and forth for things all morning. Then a guy goes to lunch. First he picks up his tools. Then all afternoon he does the same thing he did that morning. This is a very competent guy.

There aren't alot of tools but there are some little things I thought of to put in a box. With the benefit of the intelligent people of this forum to bounce it off (yes Joe I'm talking about you). I thought there may be some gadgets or tricks people are using. How are people cutting pipe? How do people treat the cut end of 6" SDR on a cold morning to get it past the gasket?

Like anything ANYBODY can lay PVC pipe. Some people do it very well! Some people don't know and don't care! I have been asked dig up more than one persons electric conduit that was not able to have a string thru it. And we found pipe that had separated where the pipe was glued improperly and under the weight of backfill had pulled apart.

I also thought if the tools were all together the training of new people would be easier.

Nick


Thanks Joe I just come in from Church and you have to get me going. Good thing I'm going to vist a daughter today.


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

I don't think it's a trick, but on a cold morning shucks any for that matter you juct keep a screwdriver in your back pocket and when no one is looking flip that pesky old gasket the hell outta there:w00t: :laughing: 
No seriously for sdr or most pipe we'll cut off with a cordless sawzall, or if we're talking BBBBBBBBBiger pipe then gas cut off saw. I'll take a 4' grinder with a braisive wheel and put the chamfer back around the pipe, lube it up:jester: ( just love it ) and shover home.
As far as electrical conduit, it's gotta be on solid ground man, you can't leave 3-6" voids under it then backfill it and not expect things to pull apart or break ( Nick I'm not saying that you would do that:no: , But some of the meatballs out there you gotta wonder ) Hey nice chatting with ya all, but I'm trying to work on my ductwork so c ya later.:thumbsup:


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

For pvc, ductile iron and CMP, we use a gas powered cut off saw. For storm drain pipe, we use a chainsaw. For a cut piece of SDR, I use a handfile to bevel it. Up to 6" I can twist it and pull it in by hand. For 8" I use a bar.


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## jojo (Jan 11, 2006)

Here's a good Idea,,You say that when your laying pipe the guys spend half the day walking back and forth to the truck,,,,ok,,now that the job is done and the tools you used for that job are laying all round...pick up those tools,,put them in a toobox and you have your tool kit,,,,,,good idea huh??


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

we use our stihl chop saw to bevel all our pipes, works good!. on our lube pail, (typically plastic), we take a razor knife, make a 1" long slit in center of the lid, slide a 2" paint brush handle through the slit, that way we're not getting all greased up with our hands when we're lubing joints, and keeps the dirt out of our lube pail, and off the paint brush. works for us! we don't keep many tools in our pickups. we pull a 20' cargo van where we keep all our fittings,pipe, tools, etc. we use the old style carpenters wood tool boxes. for services, it will have our pipe wrenches, flaring tools, joint compound, glue/cleaner, vise grips, pliers, etc. one for mainline work, that doesn't take too much. lube pail and the laser target. tools pertinent to that phase of the operation in each box. by the way, what brand sewer lasers you guys running? always ran laser alignment, just bought a new topcon, have yet to use it, looks like a good unit. how do you guys handle your air in sewer lines? we used to have problems with hot sun warmed pipe, going into cold ground, being covered with cold bedding material rock, and having the beam refract on us. typically making the laser want to run on the flat side. now we just take a furnace fan set at it's slowest speed, mounted to a piece of treated plywood, set it over the manhole and let it go. don't have to dink around with the hoses that come with laser, or the chance of the hose bumping your laser unit.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

We do the same thing with the paint brush through the slit in the lid for the lube. We use a AGL pipe laser. That is a good idea with the fan. We've run into problems with the dot moving back and forth from the cold air.


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

Joe, Rino, Day, jojo and Robert,

Thanks for the ideas. Every exchange of info helps and stimulates thought.

Day, I wish there was enough pipe work around here to have a pipe laser.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Nick


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

I bought an AGL back when I was doing some road work, but then sold it when I scaled back. Like Nick says ( dam this is getting old ) for the little bit of pipe work we do that requires the accuracy of an instrument I'll use the transit on it.:laughing:


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## bobstrat (Apr 5, 2006)

i keep one of those battery operated dremel tools and a couple different bits, youre not going to chamfer pipe all day with it but it beats running back to the truck for the cutoff saw to do just one .... all our guys laughed at it at first ..... now they all want to borrow it it comes in handy for alot of odd ball tasks .... installing inlet pipes on pump tanks just little things that we'd normally end up running back to the truck for a generator ... ext cord and what not for a two minute task


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

:laughing: :laughing: :shutup: :laughing: :laughing:


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

A few to many diesel fumes today Joe?


Nick


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Never to much!


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Nick,
How are you making out with this box? Any more thought to it?


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

I have a lot of notes that I am going to put together. I want to lay it all out on the shop floor and see how it goes together. I like the idea of Day's about the tool carrier. I am still thinking about how to cut the pipe. I have never used cordless tools for anything and I might put something cordless in the box.


Nick


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Toothbrush?:w00t:


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## PipeGuy (Oct 8, 2004)

rino1494 said:


> For storm drain pipe, we use a chainsaw.


How do the chains hold up? How long does it take to cut an 18" pipe? 30"? I was told the chains are very short lived so I've steered clear of buying one. But somehow we're managing to waste diamond cut-off saw blades like foam ear plugs and I'd really like to hear from somone who's using the concrete cutting chainsaws on how they're working out.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

PipeGuy said:


> How do the chains hold up? How long does it take to cut an 18" pipe? 30"? I was told the chains are very short lived so I've steered clear of buying one. But somehow we're managing to waste diamond cut-off saw blades like foam ear plugs and I'd really like to hear from somone who's using the concrete cutting chainsaws on how they're working out.



The storm drain pipe that I am talking about is the double wall corrugated.


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## PipeGuy (Oct 8, 2004)

dayexco said:


> we use our stihl chop saw...we don't keep many tools in our pickups. we pull a 20' cargo van where we keep all our fittings,pipe, tools, etc. we use the old style carpenters wood tool boxes. for services...


ditto



dayexco said:


> by the way, what brand sewer lasers you guys running?how do you guys handle your air in sewer lines?


We have a Leica (Laser Alignment) 6775 green beam and bought a Mikrofyn MLP 120 last year. We have not had good service from the Leica. It needs calibration as much as every other month and seems to be in the shop constantly. The Mikrofyn was less expensive than the Leica and has provided good service but when the guys lost the remote last month it was $500 to replace. Also, Mikrofyn doesn't make a 'drop bar'.

We haven't come up with a standard for ventilating. I bought a 120V blower last year that can be set in the manhole and directed up the pipe barrel but it means running a generator all day. We really struggle for a consistent grade when the air gets screwy. At .500% grade (or maybe even less) the effects of refraction can cost a lot of money. What kind of voltage does the frunace blower use?


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## PipeGuy (Oct 8, 2004)

rino1494 said:


> The storm drain pipe that I am talking about is the double wall corrugated.


Oops...my bad. A chainsaw huh? What kind of cut do you get on HDPE? Is it ragged?


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

110. it's the ****s, but have to run little honda gen there to operate it. we shove enough air thru the main to typically blow out a match on the other end. after about 450', you'll sometimes get a beam "dance"....but nothing too severe. we do, but i get reluctant to go much more than 5-550' with our laser


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## PipeGuy (Oct 8, 2004)

denick said:


> Anybody already have one you think works. Any tool adaptations or suggestions.


For fixing glue joints in wet conditions. Oatey's Rain-R-Shine blue cement is a must - can't be beat for wet applications.


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

How good is anybody at making square cuts on PVC with a hand saw?



Nick


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Me,ME,ME I am.:thumbsup:


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

Joseph, You am What?

Nick


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

denick said:


> How good is anybody at making square cuts on PVC with a hand saw?
> 
> 
> 
> Nick


I can!:whistling


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

PipeGuy said:


> Oops...my bad. A chainsaw huh? What kind of cut do you get on HDPE? Is it ragged?



Nope, works pretty good.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

denick said:


> How good is anybody at making square cuts on PVC with a hand saw?
> 
> 
> 
> Nick



Who uses and handsaw anymore


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

Hey Pipeguy, I have a Partner K950 Chain saw.

It works very well, but you are correct the chains do not seem to last very long.
And the chains for the Partner start at like $500 and go up. Plus the bar has to be replaced about every 2 chains, $150.

I have a cutting job this week in Kensington, I ordered a backup chain and bar, (cause this chain is about done), My diamond blade supplier talked me into a chain that has twice the segments as the typical chain. Chain and bar $800, they claim 30% better life. We'll see.

I have never tried it out on RCP but I am sure it would make quick work of it. and the chain may hold up better than a diamond wheel. 
When I use it we are cutting concrete walls, minimum 8" thick and the chain wears pretty fast. 
Thinner material like RCP would not wear the chain as fast and could be comparable to a diamond cut off blade.

I will tell you it is easier to handle with out the GYRO forces you get with a cut off saw.

I chose the Partner over the ICS because of Partners rep with cut off saws and chain saws in general. I don't know if one is better than the other. 

Oh, one more thing, Thing1, you must have running water to keep the chain cool and clean. It cannot "run dry".


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## PipeGuy (Oct 8, 2004)

tgeb said:


> I have a cutting job this week in Kensington


What're you doing...putting in a basement door?


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

No not this time, have done a few with this saw though.

This one is tearing down an existing addition that looks like it was originally a screened porch. A raised foundation, with slab, then sleepers. 

Funny thing with this slab, when it was poured there was no band board on the first floor framing. 

They put blocking inside, between the floor joist, and poured the slab over the foundation wall and into the joist area. I want to cut the slab free from this before demo-ing the slab.

The Lady is real freaked out that we will crack tile in her new basement bath. Seems like the best way to get it done.

Then we'll do footings for a slightly larger addition in the same area.


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