# Concrete Waterproofing Supplies



## Danny Steel (Mar 22, 2011)

Hello all, My first post:notworthy
I have a small waterproofing job to do, on a concrete wall below grade, And I'm In the need for a brush on waterproofing material.

I'm I the Guelph On. area

Thanks for any help


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

I use foundation coating, a brush on a roller frame and a long stick. I also heat up the tar with a weed dragon and a propane tank.

I would also be careful on your term "waterproofing". If by chance water does infiltrate the foundation, you could find yourself in some trouble.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Waterproofing i would leave to a professional that does it on a daily basis. Usually consists of a certain thickness spray coat, followed by a drainage board of some kind and a good footer drain. Damp proofing is a term you might be better off using.


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## Danny Steel (Mar 22, 2011)

Thanks for that tip on the term waterproofing:thumbsup:
The problem with this job Is, It grades back to the building.
I'm going to put new foundation drains In and run It to free air, then after Foundation coating:thumbup: back fill with drainage stone to near the top, and grade away from the building.


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## Redneckpete (Feb 22, 2008)

If it's just a small job, you can buy the materials at Home depot or Lowes. Apply it with a roller, and make sure the can is stored inside and somewhere warm this time of year.

If it's bigger then that there are local companies that will spray and wrap for less money then you can supply the materials. Contact Al's stone supply in Cambridge. They usually have a minimum charge of about $500, thus the rational for doing it yourself on the small jobs.

Pete


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

Redneckpete said:


> If it's just a small job, you can buy the materials at Home depot or Lowes
> 
> Pete


i "might" buy an emergency needed fitting at lowes/menards/home depot....those 3 have done more to damage the construction industry than any other factor in my opinon....other than the shoddy contractors that patronize them.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Thoroseal foundation coating is cement based if that's what your looking for - similar to Thoroseal without the pigment and a little cheaper per bag. 

I'd still hit it with a flexible system overlay for added protection :thumbsup:


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## Upchuck (Apr 7, 2009)

Foundation tar @ Home Depot & Lowe's in my area is always more expensive than the local lumberyard. I will buy sch 40 elect. pipe for small jobs there because every elect. wholesaler is in the hood & it takes forever to get stuff there.


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## Redneckpete (Feb 22, 2008)

dayexco said:


> i "might" buy an emergency needed fitting at lowes/menards/home depot....those 3 have done more to damage the construction industry than any other factor in my opinon....other than the shoddy contractors that patronize them.


Can you elaborate on that, perhaps in a new thread?

The only thing the big box retailers did around here is to put the contractor's supplies into the hands of homeowners. I can't see how that hurts. Most of them don't have a clue what they are doing, give up and end up calling contractors anyways. If they manage to fix it themselves, it's probably something I wasn't interested in anyways.

I'm not sure why the place a contractor buys supplies makes him shoddy or not. I buy supplies wherever is convenient and well priced. Local building suppliers and Home depot are both convenient because I have accounts at them and can send employees to pick up materials.

I'd love to hear your opinion.

Pete


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## Danny Steel (Mar 22, 2011)

Up here In Canada, they have a contractors parking area....Right by the door:thumbsup:.

This wall that I'm sealing Is not a real big deal, 30' and It on a bit of a hill
I would say Its leaking into the basement, between the footing, and the block wall......and like I said, Its grading slightly towards the building....Plus the eaves-trough downspout, exits right In that area.

I'm a not too bad of a painter, so I think I can handle this simple sealing job


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

Redneckpete said:


> Can you elaborate on that, perhaps in a new thread?
> 
> The only thing the big box retailers did around here is to put the contractor's supplies into the hands of homeowners. I can't see how that hurts. *This puts me in a tough spot because it forces me to talk out of both sides of my mouth. * *I'm a firm believer in capitalism, yet...box stores came to my little town, and the 5 or so mom/pop shops with each type of store that closed, took away an owner of that business that made a pretty good living, and spent it here in other mom/pop shops, replacing it with one huge store, one manager that gets paid "so/so"....pays some low level cashier/stocker wages, and takes the rest of it's profit out of my community. we don't see anymore of it. Unskilled DIY'ers that are told..."yes you can" like you said, for the most part will probably fail and hire a legit contractor. In my community, the DIY'ers were buying flip houses, creating safety issues with their lack of knowledge of what they were doing, and covering most of it up without proper inspection leaving those issues to be dealt with on the next owner. and i guess, that's okay, unless you burn somebody's house down, or methane gas them to death. * Most of them don't have a clue what they are doing, give up and end up calling contractors anyways. If they manage to fix it themselves, it's probably something I wasn't interested in anyways.
> 
> ...


i guess that's my opinion.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

We only deal with local suppliers also. I refuse to shop at Wal-mart because they basically are becoming a monopoly, plus 90% of the goods they sell in their stores are purchased from China.

I was told by a local logger that all of the hardwood flooring sold in Lowes comes from trees processed in Brazil. Not sure if it is true or not, but I refuse to support big box stores if at all possible.


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## peteo (Jan 8, 2011)

Dayexco makes a pretty good point. As far as tools go, like your shovels, rakes, hammers, etc, I dont think Lowe's or Home Depot is all that bad. I'll even by pipe and fitting there for certain jobs but when it comes to things like pavers and retaining wall stone I like to go to a legitimate supply house. Also like Day says, the big box places like those have really put a hurting on mom and pop spots around town and there arent very many of them left. too bad really since alot of those people put their whole lives into those stores and found they had to sell to be able to retire.


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## Danny Steel (Mar 22, 2011)

As we all know, we can buy top notch brand name tools at HD.....Or pipe fittings etc.as a matter of fact they have a great tool selection IMO:clap:
I Dont like buying junk tools or supplies, Thats one reason why I was asking you guys, were I could get some good concrete sealer.

Some products at HD are for the home owner......But There are a lot of products In that store that are good for the contractors as well.:notworthy


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

Danny Steel said:


> As we all know, we can buy top notch brand name tools at HD.....Or pipe fittings etc.as a matter of fact they have a great tool selection IMO:clap:
> I Dont like buying junk tools or supplies, Thats one reason why I was asking you guys, were I could get some good concrete sealer.
> 
> Some products at HD are for the home owner......But There are a lot of products In that store that are good for the contractors as well.:notworthy


as i said earlier, i speak with forked tongue. i'm happy you're getting the quality of tools you want, at the price you want at the big box....just KNOW, when you buy there, instead of at the mom and pop....the profit on that item leaves for your town, course, you may live in a metropolis and it makes no difference. i NEED that money to stay here. i need that store owner and his employees to make a profit, spend money at other local stores, and all hire me to do their work. if you're content seeing local business close in the name of capitalism, i'm happy for you. as i've said repeatedly here...i have a LOT of mixed feelings about this.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

dannysteel, know this....you know that weird/oddball/goofy stuff that your local supplier keeps on the shelf for you...just because you "might" need one? home depot/menards/lowes won't stock it unless they can move truck loads of that stuff...my local supplier appreciates my loyalty and maintains an inventory of that stuff for those of us that patronize him. i've been out on weird saturday afternoon, sunday morning water/sewer repairs...and needed something to adapt from tuballoy to copper for example, or an old 1920's era sand cast fitting or a way to adapt to/from it...guess what, HD ain't gonna have it...

maybe the next step in this dance is for there to be "one" excavating contractor for each county, or the state for that matter? each area having one contractor could more efficiently handle all the paperwork, ordering, HR issues, etc. etc...is this what we ultimately want for america?


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

Here is the stuff we are using by WR Meadows. Can't get it at HD or Blowes, but get on Meadows web site and you can find your local distributor.

We are putting this on a concrete wall that goes 28 feet below grade, and then gets backfilled and part of the building extends out over the top. So if it fails, we have to tear part of the building down to get back in there to fix it. :w00t:

Needless to say, I am making sure it is perfect prior to backfilling. Meadows has an area representative coming to next week to critique the installation and offer technical support, and we have a third party inspector hired to to some testing and check millage thickness etc.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

mudpad said:


> Here is the stuff we are using by WR Meadows. Can't get it at HD or Blowes, but get on Meadows web site and you can find your local distributor.
> 
> We are putting this on a concrete wall that goes 28 feet below grade, and then gets backfilled and part of the building extends out over the top. So if it fails, we have to tear part of the building down to get back in there to fix it. :w00t:
> 
> Needless to say, I am making sure it is perfect prior to backfilling. Meadows has an area representative coming to next week to critique the installation and offer technical support, and we have a third party inspector hired to to some testing and check millage thickness etc.


that's a freakin incredible water proof job. this stuff easy to apply? would it work good on sanitary manholes?


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

dayexco said:


> that's a freakin incredible water proof job. this stuff easy to apply? would it work good on sanitary manholes?


It's a spray on system. The installer is having problems getting the right millage per coat without getting alot of runs and sags. I keep telling him he needs to do more coats with less millage. It can be rolled on as well. The manufacturer reccommends 2- 30 mil coats for a total 60 mil wet, which dries to 45 mils. The specs for the job call for 60 mils dry, so he is having to do at least 3 coats. You have to detail all corners, cracks etc with a peel and stick membrane. 

Yeah, I would think manholes would be a good application for this. For what we are doing I would prefer to see sheet membrane. Then there is no question you are getting the right mil thickness and all you have to worry about is the seams. The interior side of this wall is a music rehearsal hall full of violins, pianos, etc. So not a good place to have moisture issues!:sad:


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## CanDoExcavating (Feb 11, 2010)

Tired of ramneck day? Lol


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

Now that is a foundation. Was that done monolitic or separate pours ?? The foundation contractor I work with doesn't like pouring over 11' high because of possible tie failure. I would love to see a thread with progress pics.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

CanDoExcavating said:


> Tired of ramneck day? Lol


we've gotten m.h.'s from jostens and sd concrete prods...that were poured so dry, they were nothing but exposed aggregate in the joints, little if no fines, even with 2 layers of ramneck..one on top and bottom flange, would not seal it, and had to go back and quickset the joints, or waterproof paint the interior to get them to pass. if there were a good product to apply to the exterior of the m.h's before we bury them even if it cost us $150 additional for a 15' depth or less manhole...yeah, i'd buy/apply it


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

rino1494 said:


> Now that is a foundation. Was that done monolitic or separate pours ?? The foundation contractor I work with doesn't like pouring over 11' high because of possible tie failure. I would love to see a thread with progress pics.


It was two pours at 14' each, with keyway and waterstop between pours. I have posted a few pics on the "current projects" thread. I thought about starting a thread for progress picks, and since your requested it, now I can do it without feeling like an ego prick.:laughing:

I got lots of photos, the state building inspector is kinda frail, and doesn't come out on the site much, so I keep him a CD full of pictures to hand him when he comes out. I'll try to get something posted tommorrow., 

Edit: The first lift was actually 17', top of footing 3' below finish floor


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## backhoe1 (Mar 30, 2007)

we actually have 1 more lumberyard now than we did before Lowes came to town.

I'd actually recommend Bituthene if you want it to work, IMO anything that you roll on has the potential to spread and crack with the concrete.


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## Danny Steel (Mar 22, 2011)

Mudpad, That's the exact stuff I'm using on my small job I have...Thanks for posting......You may also know that It comes In a all weather mix as well. I have never done this kind of work, but there's always a first.
I was told to use the protective accordion barrier over top of the LM before back filling.
Day Ex.....I hear yaa when It comes to keeping our local merchants.....Thanks for t he help and tips guys.


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

Danny Steel said:


> Mudpad, That's the exact stuff I'm using on my small job I have...Thanks for posting......You may also know that It comes In a all weather mix as well. I have never done this kind of work, but there's always a first.
> I was told to use the protective accordion barrier over top of the LM before back filling.
> Day Ex.....I hear yaa when It comes to keeping our local merchants.....Thanks for t he help and tips guys.


The protective barrier is also a drainage mat that lets the water run to the bottom of the footing and out the perforated drain. Not to tough to install, just need to get consistent coverage and get the proper thickness, and be sure to give the water a place to get out. 

Good luck!


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## kcwaterproofing (Apr 2, 2011)

Have you read up on foundation waterproofing products like impax and tuff-n-dri?


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## ConcreteExpert (Jan 29, 2013)

*Waterproofing Sealer - Spray On*

You want to avoid brush on waterproofing sealers at all costs. Concrete is very porous and has a natural reaction to absorb liquids. With brush on formulas there is an increased risk of over application - which, depending on the sealer, can cause for a very expensive cleanup.

The easiest, most affordable, type of sealer to apply is a sodium silicate based concrete sealer. Another great penetrant is a lithium silicate based sealer. Both sealers work below the surface and won't change the look or color of the concrete. Further, they are water based which will allow for a quick, easy, and even application. Because silicate sealers chemically react with concrete, the result is permanent so no reapplication is needed.


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