# Replacing Corner Boards on Tudor style home



## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

Need to replace some rotten corner boards on a Tudor style home such as in the picture. Can they just be pried out and replaced, or does the stucco make it more complicated.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

They can be pried out and replaced. Score the sides with your knife to avoid pulling chunks of piant, caulk and possibly stucco.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Easy does it, should come out of there with few issues.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

is it real stucco or hardi type panel?


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

tomstruble said:


> is it real stucco or hardi type panel?


real


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## codaman (Oct 15, 2008)

I've done work on similar homes, and hate to say it, but you won't know until you do it. Do you know what year the house was built?


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

codaman said:


> I've done work on similar homes, and hate to say it, but you won't know until you do it. Do you know what year the house was built?


Id say 1920's


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## Super-Mike (Jan 15, 2008)

Everyone one of those I've worked on (by that I mean 2) the stucco was done after the casing / fascia so the pieces I removed just came out with little of an issue and left a nice little pocket to fit back in.

Like the guy said, score the edge and remove any caulking before you take it out. You might not want to just rip it out as well, but use a cat's paw to remove existing fasteners to prevent mishaps and breaking off stucco.

On the 2 I did I had to plane down 2x material to get the reviles right because they used true milled lumber back then.


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## s. donato (Jan 23, 2008)

Super-Mike said:


> Everyone one of those I've worked on (by that I mean 2) the stucco was done after the casing / fascia so the pieces I removed just came out with little of an issue and left a nice little pocket to fit back in.
> 
> Like the guy said, score the edge and remove any caulking before you take it out. You might not want to just rip it out as well, but use a cat's paw to remove existing fasteners to prevent mishaps and breaking off stucco.
> 
> On the 2 I did I had to plane down 2x material to get the reviles right because they used true milled lumber back then.



i had pretty much the same experience with the 3 that i have had to do in the past few years.

but don't forget to ask your self why did it rot? i used a composite lumber back then to replace it with. and also had to mill it to fit.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

May not be necessary, but I have usually 
made a "relief cut" with a masonry blade
in a grinder.
I wear a belt and suspenders too. :laughing:


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Sounds like a good place for an addendum on the work order or contract out-lining exactly what your stated price covers and doesn't. Do that and you get to write a change order or you roll the dice on how much the stucco repairs are going to cost you and come out of the profits of the job.


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

If you run into a problem board, I run my saw up the middle at a 45 to the depth of the board, then pry it put without putting stress on the stucco.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

I'm replacing with azek, Its on an gable dormer of a 3rd floor attic, so it wont be super noticeable. Its just the bottom of it thats rotting because the second layer of roofing that was installed a few years ago touches the bottom of the board.

He had one other project he asked us to look at but we declined, I wish I took a picture... Get this

He hired a guy two years ago to add a second floor out door balcony. 4' off the house, 12' wide. Framed with 2x6 just nailed into the side of the house through the stucco and the only support is 4 2x4's at a 45 degree angle under this thing toenailed into the wall. The owner cant imagine why the handrails are pulling away from the house. I refused to even walk onto it. He said he doesn't want columns or support posts, so I said no way.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

that dont even work for bay windows:laughing:


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