# Short walls with steel stud



## cairnstone (Oct 26, 2008)

I just got a drawing the other day and the client wants a couple 4' high walls made. The problem is that one end is unsupported. What is the best way to frame this out of Steel stud. I have never framed anything like this


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

Are there any returns at the ends or do they run into anything, need more info such as concrete or wood floor


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Need to tie it into the floor. A bracket may work, or you may need to cut a hole and tie it in below.


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

You can put 1/2 ply under the 5/8 sheetrock to help stiffen up the wall . I have seen some carpenters frame the wall then sheet it then fill half way with concrete or spray foam and let it set up a while and then reapply the top plate.Thats a little extreme for me though,but it all depends on the application.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Warren said:


> Need to tie it into the floor. A bracket may work, or you may need to cut a hole and tie it in below.


Yep.
Add some cross bracing to that and you're good to go.:thumbsup:


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## I Mester (Aug 21, 2011)

is there going to be anything against these walls?


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## cairnstone (Oct 26, 2008)

The floor is concrete and the walls are an L


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

cairnstone said:


> The floor is concrete and the walls are an L


Plywood on the wall faces and an "L" bracket lagged to the floor and the wall.


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## Stunt Carpenter (Dec 31, 2011)

Could you just build that part of the wall with wood or are steel studs required


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

1/4'' Tapcon 2x4 bottom plate. (or 2-1/2'' Hilti pins) Screws installed parallel(across from each other)1/2'' in from edge. Then add another 2x4 with 3'' screws. Cut tabs on steel studs, plumb and screw. Adding diag. brace helps to keep end from rocking.

Hang board paper edge down. Screw bottom first 6''o.c. Keeping plumb as you screw. Hit both 2x4's.

Run a good bead of glue (prior to drywall) on floor/bottom plate to add strength. For overkill I'll run a bead of glue on the outside edge of drywall on the floor.

This is foolproof and not that complicated if done this way.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

4x4 fence posts at corners and ends


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

A drywall supply house will have a knee wall brace.It is a 't' shaped metal bracket that you ancor to the floor and it runs about 2' up the stud and you screw it to the end stud.

Also glue your bottom track and put your concrete ancors across from each other about 12" apart.Than glue your drywall and screw the heck out of it.And helps if you can use a heavy guage track and screw your studs on both sides.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

In the past i was on a job that we built 12' high x12' long freestanding walls out of 16 ga 3 5/8 metal studs. 

No L in the wall, just straight.

The track was shot down like normal but then we added 2 brackets that were 3 1/2 angle iorn with a flange welded to the bottom. Used expansion bolts in concrete and screwd to studs in the wall..

Then slapped 5/8 over it all..

Thats what the plans called for.

And if that wasnt enough this wall was getting a 400lb clothing display wall on it.

A day after the display was up we were ordered to take the thing down.

It was "unsafe"... No kidding.. we could of just threw some kickers up to the decking but thst wouldnt fly with the designers.

So to answer your question..

The method we used would work for your application...


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## A-1 Interiors (Oct 12, 2011)

cairnstone said:


> I just got a drawing the other day and the client wants a couple 4' high walls made. The problem is that one end is unsupported. What is the best way to frame this out of Steel stud. I have never framed anything like this


believe it or not how you screw the drywall will also help stiffen it up a lot
if you put a screw in the plate at the bottom below the stud then put another one like a inch and a half up on the stud (this ties it in better than normal screwing believe me it helps ) also when you cap the end of the wall do the same thing screw right in the bottom plate each side then an inch or so on the stud then about 6 inches apart up the stud 
also shoot some screws in the plate between the studs 
this is not a framing solution but will help if the wall is a little shaky try it you will be surprised how a couple well placed screws makes all the difference :thumbsup:


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

Big Shoe said:


> 1/4'' Tapcon 2x4 bottom plate. (or 2-1/2'' Hilti pins) Screws installed parallel(across from each other)1/2'' in from edge. Then add another 2x4 with 3'' screws. Cut tabs on steel studs, plumb and screw. Adding diag. brace helps to keep end from rocking.
> 
> Hang board paper edge down. Screw bottom first 6''o.c. Keeping plumb as you screw. Hit both 2x4's.
> 
> ...




So you have done some steel framing me-boy ........<what he said :thumbsup:


I have built a few short and strange walls in my day!

stepping stone Museum in Norwalk


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## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

iDAHOchris said:


> 4x4 fence posts at corners and ends


I've sunk 2.5" rigid conduit with hydraulic cement for an 8' wall under a 10' ceiling. no L just straight and it worked like a charm.

As to the "L", it would depend on the length of each leg. If they're both 10' long I'd sink a pipe. If they're both 4' then I'd plywood.


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## silverwood (Jan 30, 2013)

You get a 2x2 metal post with a 6in flange 3 anchor bolts two sides so it fits in the wall bolt down directly to floor 36 in high screw to stud using framing screws and make sure it is directly on the concrete do not have it on the trackI've been framing for several years we do it all the time and it works really well


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

weve been doing lots of these lately. the plans have been calling for steel posts at the end of the wall.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Just tore out a 5' high by 12 long wall I built about five yrs ago. Tapcons and 2-1/2'' hilti pins. I needed my BIG crow bar!


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