# zero clearance throat plate for DW745 tablesaw



## pn70 (Jun 11, 2006)

I would like to install a zero clearance throat plate on my new DeWalt DW745 table saw and was wondering if anyone knows if I can buy one ready but I'm guessing I will have to make it. I figured I might ask first since the stock throat plate seems to be on the proprietary side.

thanks

pete


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I've made them ever since I can remember. I make stacks of them using a bandsaw and sander. Make a 1/4" steel jig for locating the holes, it'll last for many years.


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## pn70 (Jun 11, 2006)

thanks Teetor, I've been trying to get out of making a custom one because the stock throat plate is so proprietary but looks like I'll just have to take the time to make one. The Images below show built in tabs on one side and a plastc tightening/tension clip on the other side. I had to adjust the color on the one pic to rub out the bright flash.


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## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

It looks like the plastic table bed is just gonna give you trouble. You cut a nice zero-clearance insert on a cool 62 degree day, and go to use it on a hot 95 degree day, and it won't fit, or rub the blade badly due to table warp.

Or is that a painted aluminum table bed?


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## pn70 (Jun 11, 2006)

It is aluminum but this will also expand/contract with hot/cold temperature changes but doubt it will even be noticeable.


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## In_Mexifornia (Mar 7, 2007)

*Zero Clearance Inserts* 









http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10714&filter=zero clearence


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## pn70 (Jun 11, 2006)

Mexifornia, that will not work on my saw but thanks anyway.

I'm gonna make a couple of plates, should be fun and it gives me an excuse to buy a shop band saw to make the rough cut easier :clap:


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

What are the side tabs for?
I make my own but use a router and template bit. It makes easy work of making them. Do a rough cut with a jigsaw and then use double-sided tape to attach it to your template. You can make a dozen in about an hour after you get the thickness of the wood just right. Keep the template around for future use. I put 4 screws in the bottom of mine to fine-tune the height. I also just slot out the front a little way, with a dado head in the TS and screw a piece of 1/2" metal stock in the slot. That keeps it from kicking up, just in case.
Seems to me, you could fashion something simple to replace the tabs with, if they are needed.


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## pn70 (Jun 11, 2006)

Thanks Robie,

The tab's go under the table to keep the plate from coming up.

I'm going to make it simple with a fairly tight tolerance and drill the appropriate holes for leveling screws then level it and call it good.

Greg DI stated on the JLC forum that I do not need to secure it down and that seems like it may work out fine. I also have a local carpenter buddy that sticks his throat plates in without securing them and has never had any problems.


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## In_Mexifornia (Mar 7, 2007)

For my shop table saw I just take the one that came with the saw, then use double sided tape and attach a piece of wood. Then use a flush bit with a guide bearing. You'll get an exact replica. I have some made out of melamine, some out of maple, some out of prefinished birch plywood. If they get messed up I just make more.

Franks Custom Construction:thumbup:


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

hate to bump an old thread, but here's an option.

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.c...nce_Table_Saw_Insert_139_16L_x_33_4W_DeW.html


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