# 12' Dump Trailer



## McCarthy D+B (Feb 12, 2010)

I was recently at my trailer dealer getting a tire replaced on my cargo trailer, and noticed they have a used 12' dump trailer for $4500.00 I am considering getting some type of dumping vehicle, either a trailer or stake-body 2-ton for smaller remo jobs where a roll-off is too much, or just won't have room on the site. I have a small kitchen job coming up that I thought would be a great job to have a dump trailer or truck on - any thoughts as to which might be better? Thought the dump trailer would be good - cause I can leave it at the site, and not have to worry about catching a ride back to my truck. Anyone out there have a good/bad experience?


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

A guy in Pittsburgh had a thread a while back about his trailer.

I have a 14' and it is fine. I would recommend a gooseneck, but they are rare in the used version. Rig it up so that your battery is constantly charging.

Can anyone tell me why they need a battery at all when your truck has dual batteries? Why can't I just run a wire from the truck? It's not like your windshield wipers require a separate battery.

I don't know what else to tell you. Removable sides might be nice, but I reckon it is difficult to build something like that which can still hold 6 tons of gravel and not get bent up.


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## BAREIN (Dec 26, 2007)

For the work you describe I would go with the trailer. I always feel safer leaving a trailer on a jobsite vs a truck, and the cost of ownership will be lower on a trailer. Trailers also have great resale if you keep them in decent shape. Keep in mind If your state is like mine, that your Combined GVWR will be over 10,001 lbs so your truck will need DOT stickers and yearly inspection when used commercially.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Sounds like a pretty decent price for a 12' dump trailer.
I vote for that one.:thumbsup:


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## Rockwood (Dec 1, 2008)

I've been shoping these trailers also and the price is not bad. For some reason these dump trailers retain a good resale. I would take it through the motions to make sure everything works and the hydraulics aren't leaking, maybe negoiate a new battery if you can't get them to come off the price and buy a good lock and chain.:thumbup:


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## wellbuilthome (Feb 5, 2008)

I have to rules now . 1, I don't buy any thing with out a built in lite . 
2, every truck must dump . 
I think my dump trailers are my favorite tool 

I have a line item on my bid sheet that says DT $650 This was my 30 yard dumpster cost , every job gets a dumpster but now i pay out $100 at the dump and 50 bucks in fuel and driver. 
The best part is I can tool up a job site in 1trip . 
I drop a trailer full of tools off to the guys and i can just leave to do boss work .
I drive a ford LCF 450 with a 11'1/2 foot bed and have truck boxes for my personal tools but the guys tools go in the gang box in there trailer. 
I have a few trailers and rent them out to HO and handy men . 
A 12' 12000lb trailer is heavy and you will need a heavy duty truck to pull it . 3/4 ton 250 or larger . 
Most 2" trailer hitches only hold 6500lbs and require a WTDH to hold up to 12500lbs
watch your CGVWR if your over 26,000 lbs you will need a CDL class A licence.
The dump trails are convenient . John


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## McCarthy D+B (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks all for the great info! I actually looked into a a little further and decided the 12' trailer wasn't going to do me much good. So I decided it might be wise to get the 16' with a goose neck, which forces me to upgrade my truck (no cries there). Looking now, and will hopefully have a new rig by the middle of the month!


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

i've been looking at them too but not going to buy one until the economy gets better. Hawke Trailers are the ones sold where I bought my closed in trailer. I really like their setups. i would get one that is 12' long double axle. the single cylinders are the better way to go according to their mechanic there, less binding especially when loads dump unevenly from one side or another. I would plan on either buying their solid walls or building some out of 2x treated lumber and making it so it's 5'-6' high total including the factory sides which are usually 24". most companies have solid walls or mesh walls too that don't add as much weight. depends what you are hauling.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

cleveman said:


> Can anyone tell me why they need a battery at all when your truck has dual batteries?


DOT requires a breakaway activated brakes which requires battery power. In addition, the current draw through a long run of wire to power the hydraulic pump would put stress on the wiring system-something like why we don't run the chopsaw off 150' of 14gauage extension cords.


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

I ran a heavy wire out to the pump, and I do feel it get hot when I operate the pump. When it charges, however, it is fine. As for the battery for the brakes, I haven't ever heard of anyone being checked and I doubt that there is a battery on the earth in that position that is charged and ready to go.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

the batteries for the brake charge while you drive. plus if the trailer sits for a while, you can have a trickle charger on it.
i bet if you have a problem and they come to check out the accident, you'll find out fast enough that you need to have a batter backup brake system which is why all the trailers like this come with one. i don't see the big deal with having a battery back there incase you ever need it. plus to dump the trailer.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

I've got a 12' dump trailer and have had several others. Here's what I know:

A single cylinder can possibly tip when dumping if the load is badly unbalanced and that's sometimes hard to tell with high sides.

Sides much higher than the ones the unit came with encourage overloading, especially with shingle tear off, dirt and gravel. It's nice to haul a lot, but it sucks to hand unload so it'll dump.

The models with wheels under the bed are narrower over all and easier to get into tight spots.

If you use it for a garbage scow, you'll get lots of flat tires at the dump or transfer station. Have more than one spare and find a way to mount one to the trailer.

Removable sides allow for forklift loading.

The battery will always be low/bad when you're in a hurry. Install a trickle charger and plug it in when you park it. You'll likely go through a battery a year.

A set of racks makes the trailer more versatile and designed properly, do not effect dumping.

If you'll be trash hauling, study how a tarp will attach. Some trailers are hard to tarp. 

Load trash carefully. One cockeyed sheet of plywood can hang up the entire load. 

Hydraulic fluid can damage/stain concrete.

In my case, using a dump trailer offers a substantial savings over dumpster service and has caused less property damage than dumpster delivery/haul off. Plus, we use it to haul lots of other stuff.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

one large cylinder is what the hawke trailers have. some companies have one dinky cylinder in the center but i do like the hawke setup.

thanks for the tips seeyou. some good things for people to remember.

i wouldn't have a problem with high sides as i don't haul gravel/dirt etc. mine would be debris from kitchens, bathroom remodels and window/door jobs. so it may be bulky items but not a lot of weight compared to dirt/stone


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## user38755 (Jan 1, 2009)

I might recommend disconnecting the trailer plug from your truck prior to lifting the load to dump. It seems that if the batteries are low enough the current gets drawn through the wiring on the truck and there is enough draw to melt the wiring on your truck clear to the fuse box. Keep a long heavy set of jumper cables with the trailer to help avoid this problem. Even the cables heat up by the time the trailer is up.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

ApgarNJ said:


> one large cylinder is what the hawke trailers have. some companies have one dinky cylinder in the center but i do like the hawke setup.


Mine is a single cylinder as well. I'm not advocating double cylinders, just reminding that a little common sense when loading will make life easier when dumping.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

"With a Valley Breakaway Kit in your towing arsenal, you add safety in the case of an accident and comply with DOT regulations in many states. The added security of Breakaway Kits has prompted many states to make them mandatory whenever your trailer’s GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) exceeds 3,000 lbs. "

I can attest to the state of Maryland handing out citations for not having the above...I think it was around $125 in my case :-(


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## outlaw (Jan 7, 2009)

I have three dump trailers. I have ran 2 gauge wire from one of the front batteries to a quick-connect that is attached at the rear bumper. All the trailers have a quick-connect on them. No more getting on top of the dump with a a dead battery.


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## daho78 (Jan 12, 2011)

Check out the 3 way dump post on this forum........ godsend.


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## GettingBy (Aug 19, 2010)

If you need a deep cycle battery for a dump trailer it has to be separate from the other battery, but a regular battery can probably give you 300 A for 30 seconds once/day without shortening its life. For a 60 Amp-hr battery this is a 5% loss of charge. 

Battery charging current should probably be 1/10th of discharge current so the wire heating during charge would be 1/100th of what you'd feel during discharge.

If you post amp draw and wire length, sizing the wire should be easy. 
Getting electrical specs on dump trailer current draw off the Net doesn't seem to be easy.
20' of #2 copper is OK for up to 200 A at a 5% voltage drop. I wouldn't go higher than 5% (0.6 v out of 12 v). Bosch specs a max of 1/4 v for the cable voltage drop for vehicle starter motor circuitry.

Replacing a battery/year probably means "abuse" or "undersized" or "wrong battery type."


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