# Power Inverter for Trailer



## CENTERLINE MV

Hey fella's. I just picked up an enclosed 6'x12' trailer. I've had a 2500 watt power inverter sitting in my basement never used for 4 + yrs now and would like to install it in the trailer.

My understanding is that it's best to use a marine deep-cell battery if my memory serves me correctly. 

What's the best way to hook this thing up so I could have some power in the trailer for a laptop, chargers, etc..?

I tried a search, but the threads are a little out-dated and I'd prefer advice based on the actual unit and set-up I have since I'm completely in the black about this kind of stuff.

Thanks in advance for your help my friends!

Here is the unit: http://www.cobra.com/downloads/manuals/CPI2550_MANL.pdf


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## Randy Bush

CENTERLINE MV said:


> Hey fella's. I just picked up an enclosed 6'x12' trailer. I've had a 2500 watt power inverter sitting in my basement never used for 4 + yrs now and would like to install it in the trailer.
> 
> My understanding is that it's best to use a marine deep-cell battery if my memory serves me correctly.
> 
> What's the best way to hook this thing up so I could have some power in the trailer for a laptop, chargers, etc..?
> 
> I tried a search, but the threads are a little out-dated and I'd prefer advice based on the actual unit and set-up I have since I'm completely in the black about this kind of stuff.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help my friends!
> 
> Here is the unit: http://www.cobra.com/downloads/manuals/CPI2550_MANL.pdf


A friend of mines swears that using two 6volt marine batteries is the only way to go for max amps and lasting power. I would make sure too that the inverter you have is ok to run stuff like computers. 

How do you plan on keeping the batteries charged? From the truck system. I am thinking of using a rv style converter in my trailer to keep my batteries charged for my furnace , although that does noting to give me 120 when no land line . I pack My Honda inverter with me most time though so that part is ok .


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## CENTERLINE MV

Thanks Randy. The "keeping the battery charged" part is what I'm most curious about. I'm not sure if there is a way to splice into the trailer plug that connects to my truck? I know some of the guys around here have it all figured out. 

I can carpenter the crap out of a piece of wood, but when it comes to this stuff, I'm a bit in the dark.... :laughing:


Here is a description from some website:

"With a modified sine-wave output these models are ideal for powering most small appliances, tools and mobile office equipment to outfitting your vehicle or trailer with an entire kitchen/entertainment system. Just connect to any 12 VDC source and convert vehicle battery power to clean, safe and efficient 115 volt AC power. 

CPI 2550 Specifications: *Output power: 2,500 watts continuous, 5,000 watts surge *AC Outlets: 3"


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## Calgaryfence

I recently set up an inverter in my trailer. I used 4 golf cart batteries but you don't need that many, it depends what you want to power. I used golf cart batteries because they are the cheapest true deep cycle batteries you can get (costco has the best price usually).

If you don't mind spending a bit more you can get newer AGM batteries which have no liquid inside and therefore can not spill, and they also don't need topping off with water, and they don't give off any gasses while charging. The cost is more than double but they may last nearly twice as long so the value is still somewhat decent.

You wont be able to draw 2500 watts from a single battery without heavy voltage drop, so I would consider wiring two batteries in parallel at least.

You need to use heavy cables (0 gauge at least) to carry that kind of current. You will also want to keep the cables from battery to inverter as short as possible. Make sure connections/lugs are tight and secure. You should install a 250 amp ANL fuse between the positive battery terminal and the inverter.

For charging I would not recommend using the trailer/truck wiring. You will only be able to replace a few amp/hours through that tiny trickle of power. You will need a larger proper battery charger to get a decent amount of charge in a decent amount of time. I am using a 55 amp IOTA charger. For two smaller batteries you could use a 30 amp charger.

You mentioned having power for "laptop and chargers", I am not sure what chargers you are considering using but hopefully not for power tools. If you will be charging power tool batteries you need a pure sine inverter or you will risk damage to the batteries and chargers. This is actually mentioned in the manual you linked for the product too.

Good luck with the installation, let me know if you have any other questions I would be glad to help.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Yep be careful what you run. I looked into a system recently that was a modified sine wave but I went out and bought a cheaper model just to test the bits I had to see if they would work. Most of the stuff I have tried in the last few weeks either don't turn on, has erratic speed control, buzzing sounds that sound sound right at all. I couldn't justify the cost of the pure sine wave inverter and decent battery's so laughed it off and spent the money on festool gear instead.


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## Steve O'D

My setup kind of sounds like your looking to do, except i didn't have inverter. Are you unable to run 110 temp cord to this at jobsite/s?

I have it wired with a male 110v plug hanging through grommet in front v-nose floor(14' trlr). This i feed from house, building ,whatever power from jobsite with a 50' to 150' 10g cord. once plugged in i have a 4gang gfi at rear doors for chargers, and a 2-gang for micro, laptop, etc. in bench area. Also powers up two strip 2' lights, xenon bulbs? 

This feed cord is also tied into a battery tender that charges my marine deep cycle battery. The battery is basically just to run (2) 12volt "ambulance" lights, for when I'm not plugged in, as in moving trailer from job to job, or if i do a one day job (rare) 

This deep cell battery, is also backup charged, (when not 110 plugged in) by a 12"x 12" solar panel mounted on roof. This works ok, but really just a backup feature, as mentioned when moving trailer. I really need to be "plugged in" though to make it usefull.

Plugging into "truck" i find to hard as i my trailer is parked day on on job, for duration, and i can alway get to back up to it every day. 
I have a dual battery diesel pickup but have yet to figure out how to do inverter that way. I have a Yamaha one for beachin, atv campin

Im def. no sparky, but hope this gives you some help.


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## CENTERLINE MV

Very good points. I might wire up some outlets in the trailer and run an extension cord to the trailer on the job. 

I guess I'll hook up a couple of marine batteries with a charger for the rare occasion we don't have power or if I quickly need to print up an invoice, or a document.


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## 480sparky

Instead of using a short drop cord with a male end hanging off it, install a *120v power inlet*.










Much cleaner & neater, and will last longer.


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## Steve O'D

Cant see it but solar panel is on top of flat roof, front right corner by bracket, gooped hole through roof, down vnose to battery box, which in pick below is buried in ply box. I drilled holes in cover for venting, as tender gets a bit toasty.









4gang gfi coverd by air hoses, "black" 12v light switch(just above my belt) for two round ceiling lights. Strip lights each have own switch on fixture









Chop saw, table saw area when setup on job, becomes my "desk"; micro, laptop, printer, hotspot









Two 40w light bulbs gives a heated box for caulking, glues, etc. Can warm up a gun or worm drive in the am too. Did 2 bulbs as blow some overnight/ weekend, so backed up with the second.


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## CENTERLINE MV

Steve O----can't see the images? 

Sparky--- that's exactly what I need. Thank you!


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## Leo G

Go with the AGM battery, mine lasted 8 years.


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## Steve O'D

CENTERLINE MV said:


> Steve O----can't see the images?


They were there, then they were gone?! Back now

I did same type of thing as Sparkys elec plug, with air line. 
Hole in side of trailer at compressor box, with short feed inside to unplug for service/ drain, then a stainelss fender washer and female end on outside. 
Can leave hose plugged in and not have to worry when close doors for rain, etc. Plus comp. is quite as its not right next to you all day


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## leeson1776

I think calgaryfence answered the OPs question pretty well.

For other applications that are more light duty, you can charge a battery or two from the "hot" wire in your trailer wire harness. Look for the wire that is powered at all times- that's the one you can hook up to a battery to charge it. On my trailer I have this charging a deep cycle battery that powers an electric hose reel, and it also charges the brake-away battery. I've never had the deep cycle run down, but it doesn't get real heavy use.


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