# What is the best way to patch crack in foundation?



## laszlo1884 (Apr 7, 2010)

Poured foundation built in 1979. An apartment basement unit. The foundation is about 4' high. It would be difficult to dig outside because there is a balkony in the way. What is the best method to seal the crack that is 1/8 wide and is about 4' long between the floor and the top of the foundation?


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

The best way is using Fortress Stabilization system 800.207.6204, call them and they will hook you up with a certified installer in your area and you can subcontract the job.

Good luck :thumbsup:


----------



## laszlo1884 (Apr 7, 2010)

Oops I forgat to mention that the owner wants it done cheap.
Would roofing cement with fibrglass fabrick last? 
Is there a 2 part epoxy type of repair with the fabric just like on boats?
Will the epoxy adhere to the concrete?


----------



## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

laszlo1884 said:


> Oops I forgat to mention that the owner wants it done cheap.


4 or 5 boxes of toothpicks driven into the crack. Wood will swell and completely seal it.


----------



## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

laszlo1884 said:


> Oops I forgat to mention that the owner wants it done cheap.
> Would roofing cement with fibrglass fabrick last?
> Is there a 2 part epoxy type of repair with the fabric just like on boats?
> Will the epoxy adhere to the concrete?


Everyone wants it done cheap...get you ass out of there and let someone else have the headache. Foundation repairs and cheap do not belong in the same sentence. If you take this on and don't do it right...you'll own the job until it is fixed which translates to you fixing it right at some point on your dime.

FYI...you are not going to fix that from the inside and stop it from leaking


----------



## laszlo1884 (Apr 7, 2010)

Chris Johnson said:


> Everyone wants it done cheap...get you ass out of there and let someone else have the headache. Foundation repairs and cheap do not belong in the same sentence. If you take this on and don't do it right...you'll own the job until it is fixed which translates to you fixing it right at some point on your dime.
> 
> FYI...you are not going to fix that from the inside and stop it from leaking


HAHA!! I love all the professional advice you people have up your sleeves.


----------



## Chris Johnson (Apr 19, 2007)

laszlo1884 said:


> HAHA!! I love all the professional advice you people have up your sleeves.


Call it hard love if you like. :clap::clap::clap:


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

The correct way to repair the wall would be to hire an engineer to access where the fault is

Putting a band aid on the crack does nothing.

If you no access on the outside then remove the concrete slab, stuff a few helical’s and call it a day, well I’m mean a few weeks


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

C'mon guys, poured foundations crack and leak all the time. I've fixed hundreds of cracks for that matter. Very few are structural. 

Use epoxy injection system or Waterplug/ Vulkem 911 polyurethane system. It's all in the technique and I'll bet my warranty on it.


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

How could you determine if it’s a structural crack or not if you don’t in*fester*gate?:jester:


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

laszlo1884 said:


> Oops I forgat to mention that the owner wants it done cheap.
> Would roofing cement with fibrglass fabrick last?
> Is there a 2 part epoxy type of repair with the fabric just like on boats?
> Will the epoxy adhere to the concrete?


Try bubble gum... I heard strawberry flavor works best :thumbsup:


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

Sugar free?


----------



## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

i've used these kits a few times. its a little messy, but guaranteed not to leak again.

http://www.radonseal.com/crack-injection/diy-injection.htm


----------



## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

festerized said:


> The correct way to repair the wall would be to hire an engineer to access where the fault is
> 
> Putting a band aid on the crack does nothing.
> 
> If you no access on the outside then remove the concrete slab, stuff a few helical’s and call it a day, well I’m mean a few weeks


Why not just crane the house off the foundation and replace the whole thing.?.?.?.?

http://www.ohiohomedoctorremodeling.com


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

Super seal is that old barney as your aviator?


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

festerized said:


> Super seal is that old barney as your aviator?


Sure is...I had the pleasure of re-pointing barney back in the late 80's during the restoration project. I love that place :thumbsup:


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

I’m there almost every weekend July thru September. I’m a fishing fool


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

festerized said:


> How could you determine if it’s a structural crack or not if you don’t in*fester*gate?:jester:


A hairline crack over 30 + years that's consistent in width and plane and shows no other ill effects is more than likely shrinkage as opposed to structural, and I won't argue over having an engineer look at it. Just simply stating I've seen and repaired hundreds of these type cracks with very good success. 

On the other hand , I'm quite familiar with foundation failure and the nasties that come along with it. Been there, done that :thumbsup:


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

For me I need to know why before I fix.

Around here I have seen entire back yards wash out under the bulk head. Next block over you could find sink holes from buried trees, you never know. I like to know what is and what caused, otherwise I’m going back to fix again for free

You know the old saying “once you touch it, you own it”


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

That makes two of us:thumbsup:

First pic - my friends boat

2nd pic - my dream boat :laughing:


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

oops!


----------



## festerized (May 19, 2007)

Oh man too much to wax!
My dream boat 27’ Amber Jack 
Best of both worlds, luxury cabin, all out fishing in the rear
There’s another saying too “you can’t see if from my house, or in this case my boat”:laughing:


----------



## laszlo1884 (Apr 7, 2010)

3bar said:


> i've used these kits a few times. its a little messy, but guaranteed not to leak again.
> 
> http://www.radonseal.com/crack-injection/diy-injection.htm


That might be good stuff. I will check it out. Thanks!!
I was thinking of a installing floor tile over the crack with the "flexible" thin set mortar. Might end up using both methods on the same crack.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

festerized said:


> Oh man too much to wax!
> 
> Are ya sure! :laughing:


----------



## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

laszlo1884 said:


> HAHA!! I love all the professional advice you people have up your sleeves.



Well, now that's not a nice thing to say when asking for advice. I think most of the advice given is pretty sound.

Look, here is the thing, Superseal is right; most cracks are not necessarily structural and many of them are repairable. In my opinion, the only right way to repair any leaking below grade structure is to make the repair from the positive (exterior) side of the wall. Sometimes that is not feasible or economical and we make negative (interior) side leak repairs frequently. We do spell out very clearly in our proposal that we will perform the work in accordance with manufacturer's instructions, but we make no claim that our repairs will stop the leak. 

Most of the time, we are successful in making negative side repairs, but every once in a while we get one that won't go away; I'm talking in a broader sense than just cracks here, but sometimes those too. Anyway, letting the owner or contractor know up front that we won't guaranty stopping the leak keeps us from "owning" a leak.


----------



## laszlo1884 (Apr 7, 2010)

Supahflid said:


> Well, now that's not a nice thing to say when asking for advice. I think most of the advice given is pretty sound.
> 
> Look, here is the thing, Superseal is right; most cracks are not necessarily structural and many of them are repairable. In my opinion, the only right way to repair any leaking below grade structure is to make the repair from the positive (exterior) side of the wall. Sometimes that is not feasible or economical and we make negative (interior) side leak repairs frequently. We do spell out very clearly in our proposal that we will perform the work in accordance with manufacturer's instructions, but we make no claim that our repairs will stop the leak.
> 
> Most of the time, we are successful in making negative side repairs, but every once in a while we get one that won't go away; I'm talking in a broader sense than just cracks here, but sometimes those too. Anyway, letting the owner or contractor know up front that we won't guaranty stopping the leak keeps us from "owning" a leak.


hey bud thanks for the preaching even though it is not sunday yet


----------



## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

laszlo1884 said:


> hey bud thanks for the preaching even though it is not sunday yet


Can I get an AMEN!:laughing:


----------



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

just use an epoxy injection system


----------



## Michael Olding (Aug 5, 2008)

Looks like a simple urethane injection would take care of that puppy. A couple of hundred and all's right with the world.


----------

