# Angle Iron to Block



## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

Hope you guys are doing well...haven't posted in a while.

This is a question that I'm sure has a simple answer...however, I've never done this before.

Can an angle iron be easily bolted onto a CMU wall? Could I attach the iron in the middle of the blocks, vs in the mortar joint?

Any type of special bolts, or standard anchor bolts would work fine?

FYI, this is to support a stack of brick to simply fill in a 4" void between 2 rowhouses. There is no footing, so was hoping to use the angle iron method.

Thanks!!

-Tommy C


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

Tommy C said:


> Hope you guys are doing well...haven't posted in a while.
> 
> This is a question that I'm sure has a simple answer...however, I've never done this before.
> 
> ...


I don't think going through the mortar joints is beefy enough. Can you get to the backside? Perhaps thru-bolting it would work. I also have done it where we'd bust out cells a few courses below, stuff it; then bust out above where you want to anchor; then fill with grout, leaving a filled cavity to insert an expansion anchor. However, you might want to consult an engineer.


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

So anchoring into a hollow cell would not be good? This is not going to be holding that much weight...just about 21 half bricks stacked on top of one another.


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

There are "double-cinch" or dual expanding anchors for using on hollow core block that I've used successfully. But without seeing your situation, I don't know if they are what you should use.


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## macatawacab (Jan 1, 2009)

how high are you going? Mort joint not the right place for a bolt.

Sleeve anchors (Red Heads or equivalent) works best. Usually need to have grouted cores three courses to mount lintel or angle like you are talking.

don't know enough about your situation to adequately answer but as a CM I have done RFI's handling many situations like this. Have a pic?


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

I have a pic, but it's on my other computer, I'll post tonight hopefully. 

It's not going high at all...this is a stupid patch job really...just filling in the 4" gap between 2 rowhouses. It goes about 7' high, half bricks stacked on one another should work. It's just to keep the rats out that have been nesting in there.

Luckily I'm also doing a stacked stone wall, or else this wouldn't really be worth my time.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

I think the angle with 2- 3/8" or 1/2" anchors are plenty, as the brick seem like they'll wedge them self in place when cured.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

If there is a CMU to bolt TO, why can't you stack on top of them?


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

Tscarborough said:


> If there is a CMU to bolt TO, why can't you stack on top of them?


Rats, I forgot to post the pics last night from my home computer.

OK, let me paint the picture. This is in the back small patio area behind an old brick rowhouse. There is a 4" gap between the rowhouse, and a block garage that belongs to the neighbor. Rats have been nesting in there (this is in the City). So the homeowner needs to brick up the gap, just to keep the rats out.

In the 4" between the 2 structures, there is no footing there. Just dirt. So the only feasible option that I can fathom is to bolt an angle iron to the block wall, and bridge off of that with my brick. 

It's not a lot of weight...will really just be about 50 lbs total that's being supported by the angle iron.

Sooo...do you think it's OK to bolt into a hollow celled block?


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

I'd say you'd be fine using the dual expansion type anchors for an application like that. But now you got me thinking of how you're going to attach the bricks to the sides, just mud them to both buildings?


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

rustyjames said:


> I'd say you'd be fine using the dual expansion type anchors for an application like that. But now you got me thinking of how you're going to attach the bricks to the sides, just mud them to both buildings?


Exactly. The brick will lock in no problem with head joints.


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## bobcaygeonjon (Aug 30, 2007)

Rat poisen?


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

Almost sounds like you can just pound in an 8' piece of 2x treated between the structures and call it a day. Except for getting rid of the rat's.


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

For the love of God. The photos I tried to upload FAILED. Too big perhaps? It's always somethin....Anybody knowhow to re-size them??


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Tommy C said:


> For the love of God. The photos I tried to upload FAILED. Too big perhaps? It's always somethin....Anybody knowhow to re-size them??


upload them to tinypic.com and you can choose to resize them as they are uploaded... i resize to 800x600


for each photo just copy past the link for IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards and paste it into your message and you will be good.

If you absolutely can't figure it out or are tired and frustrated just email them to me and i will post em for you this once. 
[email protected]


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

Let's try this!]


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Tommy C said:


> Let's try this!]


Hmm i see your problem more clearly now! 





After examining the picture closely I would say.....forget the bolts you could just f26 the angle iron to the cmu....


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

LOL - the masonry site pic is on my other computer at home! I just wanted to see if tinypic worked! I'll post the masonry pic tonight


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

If it's your boat, good luck selling it; if it's not, don't buy it, unless you have a lot of money you want to get rid of.


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## Tommy C (Jul 11, 2005)

rustyjames said:


> If it's your boat, good luck selling it; if it's not, don't buy it, unless you have a lot of money you want to get rid of.


Was thinking of buying it...why, what's wrong??!! (aside from a few scratches)..??


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