# Screwing Drywall Around Tub Enclosures



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Have always been weary of driving nails or screws around the tub tab.
Even when pre-drilling. Having seen occasions where it split.

_Is pre-drilling fine thread screws the best we can do?_

On the elevated areas, it's easier to avoid the tab altogether by bumping the screw off the molding and onto the stud. Sides have to be done though and you're not always given 1/2 stud width...


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

artinall said:


> Have always been weary of driving nails or screws around the tub tab.
> Even when pre-drilling. Having seen occasions where it split.
> 
> _Is pre-drilling fine thread screws the best we can do?_
> ...



Drywall shouldn't overlap the tab. Stop right above it on top and next to it on the sides. My drywallers use durabond or 90 minute ez sand to fill in the gap.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

artinall said:


> *Have always been weary *of driving nails or screws around the tub tab.
> Even when pre-drilling. Having seen occasions where it split.
> 
> _Is pre-drilling fine thread screws the best we can do?_
> ...


Did you mean "leery"?

No fastener within 2" of tub flange. Therefore, no issue.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Big Johnson said:


> Drywall shouldn't overlap the tab. Stop right above it on top and next to it on the sides. My drywallers use durabond or 90 minute ez sand to fill in the gap.


 Don't follow you. Drywall has to overlap the nailer tab (flange; _edited later_)...

Fill in what gap? you referring to the height difference between the nailer tab and the stud?


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

What's a tub tab? The flange? I wouldn't fill the gap with anything that wicks water. (I don't use drywall, either).

Or are you talking about the top and sides of a surround?

(Nail to stud...then drywall screws outside the "tab", not through it)


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Did you mean "leery"?
> 
> No fastener within 2" of tub flange. Therefore, no issue.


- If no fastener within 2" then how do you attach drywall at the sides?

Mine's not getting tiled. Painted green/purpleboard.

*Correction* (sorry) this is the shower flange (wall kit) . All the way around including the base tub unit.

BTW: I guess I did mean a little bit of leery and weary both!


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

artinall said:


> Mine's not getting tiled. Painted green/purpleboard.


doesn't matter. Sounds like s*** tho. What do I know...


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

artinall said:


> - If no fastener within 2" then how do you attach drywall at the sides?
> 
> Mine's not getting tiled. Painted green/purpleboard.
> 
> ...


Then I have no clue WTH you are talking about. I posted a pic - if it doesn't relate - them maybe you got to post one so a dufus like me can see the situation better.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

artinall said:


> Don't follow you. Drywall has to overlap the nailer tab (flange; _edited later_)...
> 
> Fill in what gap? you referring to the height difference between the nailer tab and the stud?


You stop the drywall before you get to the flange. Then fill in the area between the shower surround and the drywall. Durabond with paint and primer will hold up no worse than drywall with paint and primer.

My drywallers use mesh tape.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Then I have no clue WTH you are talking about. I posted a pic - if it doesn't relate - them maybe you got to post one so a dufus like me can see the situation better.


He's talking about the enclosure kits, like fiberglass or gel coat, etc. His problem is where the alcove isn't deep enough, so a sliver of wallboard is needed outside the tub...and how to apply.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I run it over the lip and fill with caulk.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Believe shower bead could be of help, which I have not seen before http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/commercial-beads/tear-away-beads/shower-bead


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Nobody glues a strip and corner bead on? I'll either do that, or do the whole strip as a fill, depending.

If I need a nailer to screw to, I'll put one in.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

hdavis said:


> Nobody glues a strip and corner bead on? I'll either do that, or do the whole strip as a fill, depending.
> 
> If I need a nailer to screw to, I'll put one in.


Doh! I've glued 'em.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

artinall said:


> Believe shower bead could be of help, which I have not seen before http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/commercial-beads/tear-away-beads/shower-bead


That looks like it might work pretty good, might give it a try on my own bathroom remodel.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

artinall said:


> Believe shower bead could be of help, which I have not seen before http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/commercial-beads/tear-away-beads/shower-bead


Ah. That would work for me. Seems ideally suited...


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

I'm in the "but to the flange and durabond in the gap" club. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Tub tab, LOL. I haven't torn one out where drywall was screwed through the flange, it's always been over the flange and caulked. If the walls are open you simply add a stud if one isn't close enough. 

I have never installed a shower enclosure, pretty sure that's a 70's thing or rebath.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

you will split that surround kit if you're using a bugle head (sheetrock) screw. Use a self-drilling lathe/truss head screw.

I use to also hollow out the back of the sheetrock that sat over those screws to get it to lay flat. You can use sheetrock screws for the sheetrock over tub surround flange connection b/c the head is sinking into the sheetrock.


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## ktmrider (Jun 2, 2017)

I shim around tub flange so It sits flat and hold screws back from the flange, like others have said use the trim tex shower bead it gives it a clean look


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