# Metal Trim



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Tom Struble said:


> we need to remember when a long piece is bent in the brake that piece is straighter than any piece of wood your trying to cap,as you try to push it tight thats when the waviness happens,adding a bend always helps but not always needed if a gutter is going to be screwed over top


BINGO..When im wrapping rakes i explain to the customer ahead of time that the metal is perfectly straight and the 1x6 thats been on house for 40 years is not..


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

cleveman said:


> I have a trick to deal with any wrinkles, etc. on fascia.
> 
> I hang a gutter in front of it.


That does not do much for wide garage door caps though. :no:


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

NYGUTTERGUY said:


> BINGO..When im wrapping rakes i explain to the customer ahead of time that the metal is perfectly straight and the 1x6 thats been on house for 40 years is not..


And it does not help much when the framers put the crown going the wrong way.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

Randy Bush said:


> And it does not help much when the framers put the crown going the wrong way.


Upside-down and backwards?


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

I'm not sure how gutters were brought into this thread. 

But, to answer your question, try what I said in the post about the "X": just very slight bends from corner to corner, diagonally. It may be the answer you're looking for.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

jb4211 said:


> I'm not sure how gutters were brought into this thread.
> 
> But, to answer your question, try what I said in the post about the "X": just very slight bends from corner to corner, diagonally. It may be the answer you're looking for.


That would look good with some single 8" aluminum siding with mitered corner caps, and a cross-buck scallop storm door... And might as well throw a starburst in the gable for good measure


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

If I didn't know better, if swear you live around here.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

tenon0774 said:


> Upside-down and backwards?
> 
> 
> View attachment 115214


Yep and with a bow in or out too. Real pain to cover that kind of stuff.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

The real trick is to let the metal sit where it wants to sit and pre-drill your nail holes also the metal goes back just far enough to go under the garage door gasket. But not far enough that the nails in the gasket go through the metal


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## Anthill (Mar 23, 2013)

metal will expand and contract with temperature change. Especially aluminum. The trick is to work with it, like extra bends, crossbrakes, ribs, etc. that give the metal somewhere to go; not fastening it tighter to try to resist the movement.


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## QCCI (Jan 28, 2013)

jb4211 said:


> I'm not sure how gutters were brought into this thread. But, to answer your question, try what I said in the post about the "X": just very slight bends from corner to corner, diagonally. It may be the answer you're looking for.


I would not do this, it's not duct work. It's too long for that anyways. Would not look good, I'm my opinion.


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## QCCI (Jan 28, 2013)

Patrick said:


> The real trick is to let the metal sit where it wants to sit and pre-drill your nail holes also the metal goes back just far enough to go under the garage door gasket. But not far enough that the nails in the gasket go through the metal


I agree 100% with pre-drilling your holes. But I think for the larger 8" jambs you need to wrap the entire jamb.


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## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

Try this:

Center piece is flat stock,extending into finish trim on the left side and about 1" under face trim (on the right), that wraps around about 2" and has a hemmed edge.
The hem can be under bent to help add pressure against the flat stock.
Pre drill and nail trim on right in as far as you dare,without going through the flat stock.

Flat stock will float in place like a panel in a door.Take care to be precise with measurements so the flat stock is limited to moving sideways.The nail in the face trim and the width of the finish trim limit trim movement.

One pre drilled and strategically placed pin nail(if needed) will hold the flat stock from slipping down if its raised off the floor.

I usually bend the J into the front trim piece when doing the siding,but for your application it can be slipped behind the J and pin nailed (pre drill) through the J.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

oldfrt said:


> Try this:
> 
> Center piece is flat stock,extending into finish trim on the left side and about 1" under face trim (on the right), that wraps around about 2" and has a hemmed edge.
> The hem can be under bent to help add pressure against the flat stock.
> ...


When doing it this way are you placing the inside finish trim just up to the door weather seal?


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## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

Randy Bush said:


> When doing it this way are you placing the inside finish trim just up to the door weather seal?


 Best way is to have a piece of flat stock or I&W in place before the door seal goes up,something to waterproof the intersection of the finish trim/door seal joint.
Some guys wrap opening in PT,so I&W has a two fold cure.

Another way would be to bend metal finish with two extended legs,one to go behind the door seal,and the other one slot punched,to nail to casing.
Its a tedious job,and would probably be easier to go the PVC route,but I hate working with all that static dust.:jester:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

yea..but you go thru all of that and the h.o. runs the car into it within 3 days..:whistling

once you get a nice dust layer the waves blend right in


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## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

Tom Struble said:


> yea..but you go thru all of that and the h.o. runs the car into it within 3 days..:whistling
> 
> once you get a nice dust layer the waves blend right in


 Actually its usually the snow blower,lawnmower,weed wacker,or plow guy.
Most people seem to live with it till its time to sell the house.

I give HO the option of PVC,most go for the up front cost factor saying they'll be careful.:no:


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## owattabuilder (Sep 2, 2013)

for the garage wraps do you bend an "L" and terminate under the weatherstrip or a "C" to wrap the whole wall.

From experience, the "L" bend ripples a lot more than the "C" does. the extra bend adds a lot of stiffness to the metal. We use Mastic or ACM metal and don't have issues in wraps up to 10"


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

what that other bend is doing is forcing the installer to hang it ''straight'' he can't push in one end more than the middle and opposite end,in effect it becomes like a beam


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I don't think I've ever installed 8 inches of flat metal.

Bend some details into it. Be different..


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## owattabuilder (Sep 2, 2013)

If you use the wood grain metal, it helps also the texture helps to hide and wrinkling.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i find coated to be even more of an issue, at least visually when it comes to ''waviness''


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

When you set the nail bend the nail around the hole 2 or 3 times to make the hole a little bit bigger than the nail shank. 

I try not to have any trim over 6" without a bend though


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## RMC9 (Feb 24, 2014)

The bend is one continuos piece from behind the j channel to behind the weather stripping. A hem behind the weather stripping would have helped but I was concerned about the extra thickness messing with how the weather stripping would sit against the jamb. The screws holding weather stripping may be holding metal too tightly to allow it to move also. I tried to talk the HO into PVC but they didn't want to spend the extra money. 

It's only been a couple of weeks since install and one of the doors already has a dent from one of their kids bikes...


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## Okiecontractor (Oct 15, 2012)

I cant tell from the picture cause I'm on my phone but would a brake buddy work here? Sounds like what you're looking for but maybe I'm missing something.


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## BattleRidge (Feb 9, 2008)

Besides putting a rib in it another thing you can do depending on your fastener is drill the whole for you fastener slight larger then the shank then dont pound it tight so it can move between ever so slightly.


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## FrankSmith (Feb 21, 2013)

I build my garage door jamb so it sticks past the sheathing 1 1/2" I then just rap that and j to it. I never have any problems. When you add the 3 1/2 casing on the front you get in to trouble.


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## jon_5459 (Dec 28, 2021)

Patrick, i have been looking for the answer to that for years, thank you! (difference between mastic ts24 and s24)



Patrick said:


> All their coil is .019"they have always made whats called TS24 trim coil. A lot of vendors have switched to buying their S24 coil. Which is still .019" but 1lb less aluminum per 50' roll and it somehow still measures .019. A trained hand can feel the difference in how the material flexes though. Same box different label cheaper price to the distributor. Some pass on the savings some dont. We only
> Use mastic for colors now white coil from them costs wayyyy too much


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