# Curbless shower with linear drain



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Who likes what systems? Looking at doing one. Right now thinking Kerdi tapered pan and drain with grate. The client wants large tile so we will slope all one direction. The install is a three wall shower.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

I like the a lot. I try to size the shower to use a wall to wall drain. 

I also like the looks of a multi slope pan with a short lineal drain. 

Make sure you install a weep break between the shower floor and room floor. Schluter expansion joints work great for this.

Tom


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

I like the Kerdi system. Pretty flexible. I've done some unusual things, like sloped subfloor because it worked.

The big ones are insanely expensive though.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

If you plan on using the Schluter drain there is one that cannot be used on the room side of the shower. The grid runs straight through, the water will flow into the room.

Tom


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

I still haven't tried the kerdi linear drain kits. I think I always end up in weird situation with plumbing and layouts that it's easier to mud the floor and go from there.

Here's one with a Laticrete drain which I didn't like as much as the noble company but it worked out.
https://www.facebook.com/AloneEagle...0.1452653802./997377843608450/?type=3&theater


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Tech Dawg said:


> I still haven't tried the kerdi linear drain kits. I think I always end up in weird situation with plumbing and layouts that it's easier to mud the floor and go from there.
> 
> Here's one with a Laticrete drain which I didn't like as much as the noble company but it worked out.
> https://www.facebook.com/AloneEagle...0.1452653802./997377843608450/?type=3&theater


Good to know! The solid one catches all the water before it goes across.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tech Dawg said:


> I still haven't tried the kerdi linear drain kits. I think I always end up in weird situation with plumbing and layouts that it's easier to mud the floor and go from there.
> 
> Here's one with a Laticrete drain which I didn't like as much as the noble company but it worked out.
> https://www.facebook.com/AloneEagle...0.1452653802./997377843608450/?type=3&theater


Blast from the past. God to see you around.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

We do not have great access to Wedi, Kerdi, or Noble...I use Kerdi because I can get it online fairly easy. I think for our situation it will be the easiest way to go. The drain will be opposite the door against a wall. 

Has anyone used the Schulter profile that goes at the bottom to eliminate a long taper cut?

http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...s/Schluter®-SHOWERPROFILE-R/p/SHOWERPROFILE_R


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

I've used the filler in the second level Schluter class. It's just oaky. 

Try this site, I've had good service from the before I could get Schluter locally. Noble is their primary line.

http://www.tools4flooring.com

Tom


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## illbuildit.dd (Jan 7, 2015)

We're about to start a shower and would like to do curbless if possible. Would be our first. Is there any modification to the flat subfloor I need to start considering?


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Does anyone over here make a 3/4 or 1" pre sloped pan that can be tiled yet?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Does anyone over here make a 3/4 or 1" pre sloped pan that can be tiled yet?


Wedi.

Trending Accessibility 

Tom


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

BCConstruction said:


> Does anyone over here make a 3/4 or 1" pre sloped pan that can be tiled yet?


I think the ARC triform is what you're looking for. I think they look kind of ugly though. 
http://arcfirst.net/products/triform-linear-drain-shower-system/

I've used their tuff form and it was ok. It used a euro mapei paint on waterproofing membrane (mapegum) that was difficult to get information about over here, but otherwise the system was pretty decent


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

The Wedi looks just like a Wedi pan. You block in-between the joists to achieve the necessary support.

Tom


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

tjbnwi said:


> Wedi.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



More like some like aqua dec in Europe where you just sit it across the joists and then screw down and apply tanking membrane and tile. It's about time there were more options like Aqua deck over here. It's a great system.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Philament said:


> I think the ARC triform is what you're looking for. I think they look kind of ugly though.
> 
> http://arcfirst.net/products/triform-linear-drain-shower-system/
> 
> ...



Yeah very close. Aqua deck has a drab that can be spun around to miss joists and cone with a decent tanking membrane.


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## illbuildit.dd (Jan 7, 2015)

Good ol Google


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

BCConstruction said:


> Yeah very close. Aqua deck has a drab that can be spun around to miss joists and cone with a decent tanking membrane.


The Triform has three drain hole options to miss joist.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> The Triform has three drain hole options to miss joist.



I wondered what it was laid out like that for. In gonna have to take better look at that system.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Yeah very close. Aqua deck has a drab that can be spun around to miss joists and cone with a decent tanking membrane.


That is how the Trend I saw at the Remodeling show worked.

Tom


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

This is from a shower we built. I thought it was cool. Can't see it but it's curbless.
Just to make it clear my tile sub did this. I was the GC.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Californiadecks said:


> This is from a shower we built. I thought it was cool. Can't see it but it's curbless.
> Just to make it clear my tile sub did this. I was the GC.


Looks great!


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Tech Dawg said:


> Looks great!


Not sure if you noticed, but that seat is marble and the walls are travertine. It was an amazing lucky match. Found at two separate companies.


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## dmcarnes (Dec 13, 2015)

Yeah, beautiful match there. How did the underside of the seat work out - wrap the marble underneath?


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

dmcarnes said:


> Yeah, beautiful match there. How did the underside of the seat work out - wrap the marble underneath?


I certainly remember throughly discussing that, but my brain doesn't tell me with who. It was either marbled or tiled but I know it was wrapped.

The ceiling is travertine as well.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

It's called an Ole Hanson design. It's a specific taste the HO's wanted. They were extremely happy with the outcome. Not really a style I personally like, but that's irrelevant.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Here's the custom vanity


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## dmcarnes (Dec 13, 2015)

Style is definitely distinctive, but great looking work there.

Saw a curbless shower today that was too small for the style. Only about 3ftx5ft, with a glass wall halfway down the length - homeowner says water splashes out all over the place, because the curbless shower was a great idea in principle, except the bathroom is way too small to do that (gotta hand it to the contractor who put that one in and didn't say anything about how bad an idea it really was).


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

dmcarnes said:


> Style is definitely distinctive, but great looking work there.
> 
> Saw a curbless shower today that was too small for the style. Only about 3ftx5ft, with a glass wall halfway down the length - homeowner says water splashes out all over the place, because the curbless shower was a great idea in principle, except the bathroom is way too small to do that (gotta hand it to the contractor who put that one in and didn't say anything about how bad an idea it really was).


I made it absolutely clear that it's not an aquarium there may be some water they gets out, but these folks are in there 80's and it was more important to them to not have a curb. It was funny because out of respect I always referred to it as "when they get older" that the curb could be a problem.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Here's a pic of the curbless.


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## daviemac (Oct 30, 2015)

*Signature Hardware Linear Drain*

Have any of you guys worked with Signature Hardware Linear Drain? I have a question: How do go about installing a waterproofing membrane underneath it? It has two legs on the sides what, I supposed, is to support the 5 feet long drain but I'm afraid of supporting it on top of the membrane. This particular drain is called Cohen linear shower drain. Any tips appreciated.

Thank you!


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

looking at the site it appears to be used in conjunction with a pvc pan and adapter flange. It does not say how it is to be used with a topical system
http://www.signaturehardware.com/pvc-bolt-down-shower-drain-flange-coupling.html

Does it have any installation sheets with the product?


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## daviemac (Oct 30, 2015)

Yes, there's is a manual. I was hoping I could find something online, but I haven't had any luck yet. I can't make sense of those 2 legs on top of the vinyl.




Thanks for replying!


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

overanalyze said:


> Who likes what systems? Looking at doing one. Right now thinking Kerdi tapered pan and drain with grate. The client wants large tile so we will slope all one direction. The install is a three wall shower.


had a good experience with weedi. very very easy....


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Well I installed the Kerdi linear drain kit today. I like it. It installed well. Saves a bunch of time with the membrane being pre-attached to the pan. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

...


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Hey Travis I used the RLS 1/16" clips on the floor this time. I really like that size grout joint! I did end up soaking them in water just in case. I only had a couple break on me.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Looks good. I don't even have the 1/16" in stock. I've never done 1/16" joints other than subway tile. I'm too afraid that if a client asks for a 1/16" joint and I try it, I'll get tile that aren't perfect and it's going to result in a major pain in the butt trying to somehow get through the alignment problems.

Did you have those issues at all on this job?

I still don't soak my 1/8" and on average break .5 clips per job. It's just not worth it to me to deal with the water when at most I'll probably break one clip on a job. I've got the clips and wedges in two separate systainers. I'm going to combine them with a center divider since floor square footage is always at a premium.

Whoops... I think I hijacked your thread... :laughing:


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

No hijack at all. Good discussion! I had the tile before hand. They just asked for the tightest joint possible. Once I saw the tile and their quality/consistency I was comfortable with the 1/16" clips. I dumped the clips in a 5 gallon bucket and filled it with water. It wasn't a nuisance at all grabbing them from the bucket of water...they actually float. 

It may be my go to size moving forward with large format tile.


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

1/16 RLS clips are all I've ever used. Haven't ran into any problems a few wedge shims couldn't fix. Seems that everyone here wants really tight grout joints. Sometimes I soak them, but not always. I only ever tighten them by hand though, so breaking them hasn't been a problem.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Philament said:


> 1/16 RLS clips are all I've ever used. Haven't ran into any problems a few wedge shims couldn't fix. Seems that everyone here wants really tight grout joints. Sometimes I soak them, but not always. I only ever tighten them by hand though, so breaking them hasn't been a problem.


It's easier to break by hand, the tools holds the sides straight as it pushes the wedge in. I've cranked them so hard I was afraid I'd break the tile.


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

Inner10 said:


> It's easier to break by hand, the tools holds the sides straight as it pushes the wedge in. I've cranked them so hard I was afraid I'd break the tile.


I think I've broke three clips in about 4000. Mixing the thinset a little looser than normal and setting the tile close to level, I haven't had the need to crank them down much to get level. Plus you seem to develop a feel better for how much tension is on them when you do it by hand. 
If it works for you, all the better. Just throwing my $0.02


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I've broken more with the tool. It's a piece of junk. Out of the last 6000 clips, I've broken maybe 5-6 clips while synching down by hand. 

The last bathroom I broke 4 with the stupid tool. I've gone back to synching by hand. Faster, easier and I can feel my work.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Philament said:


> I think I've broke three clips in about 4000. Mixing the thinset a little looser than normal and setting the tile close to level, I haven't had the need to crank them down much to get level. Plus you seem to develop a feel better for how much tension is on them when you do it by hand.
> If it works for you, all the better. Just throwing my $0.02


I have the tool if you wanna give it a shot.

I remember Angus saying years ago they had issues with the clips breaking, maybe they started making them a little thicker.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I have two of them and will ship it to you for free for taking the friggin piece of crap off my hands.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

I like the tool. I adjusted it so it doesn't over torque them.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

My hands know the exact amount of torque needed for each wedge.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

overanalyze said:


> Well I installed the Kerdi linear drain kit today. I like it. It installed well. Saves a bunch of time with the membrane being pre-attached to the pan. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.


Sorry to drag this thread back to life, Andrew did you recess pan into sublfoor to make transition from floor tile to shower tile? 

thanks,


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

kevjob said:


> Sorry to drag this thread back to life, Andrew did you recess pan into sublfoor to make transition from floor tile to shower tile?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,


Yes we did. We dropped it approx 1-1/2”. I have another one coming up next month to do. The one in the thread was I-joists which makes it a little more challenging to drop.

Here is some progress pics & finished before glass.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

overanalyze said:


> kevjob said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry to drag this thread back to life, Andrew did you recess pan into sublfoor to make transition from floor tile to shower tile?
> ...


How did you get 1.5"? Cut Joists? Curious as I typically cleat Joists 3/4" lower than tops and fill with 3/4" plywood ending up even with top of Joists.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

We have done I-joists mods a couple times. Now...we are not a permitted or inspected town so take this with a grain of salt but I am very confident in this method.

We have glued and lagged ripped down 2x10's to both sides of the i-joist's web where we want to drop it down. We set those 2x10 on the bottom flange. We also make sure to run that 2x10 bearing to bearing in that location. In both times we have done this the bearing was an exterior wall and a close basement wall. Less than 12'. Then we will cut the top flange out where the shower pan will go, add perimeter blocks around the edge of the pan area and then sheet with 3/4". 

This makes for a very solid floor and dropped pan area.


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

overanalyze said:


> We have done I-joists mods a couple times. Now...we are not a permitted or inspected town so take this with a grain of salt but I am very confident in this method.
> 
> We have glued and lagged ripped down 2x10's to both sides of the i-joist's web where we want to drop it down. We set those 2x10 on the bottom flange. We also make sure to run that 2x10 bearing to bearing in that location. In both times we have done this the bearing was an exterior wall and a close basement wall. Less than 12'. Then we will cut the top flange out where the shower pan will go, add perimeter blocks around the edge of the pan area and then sheet with 3/4".
> 
> This makes for a very solid floor and dropped pan area.


Gotcha, I am permitted and would need engineer report to do that. Everyone now seems to want these curbless showers with only 2 walls and big tiles and big shower floors. I am adding a curb on side return of shower so I can use the kerdi linear pan with drain at entrance.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

kevjob said:


> Gotcha, I am permitted and would need engineer report to do that. Everyone now seems to want these curbless showers with only 2 walls and big tiles and big shower floors. I am adding a curb on side return of shower so I can use the kerdi linear pan with drain at entrance.


I can't see an engineer not approving the above method. Basically you are sistering the ijoist with a double 2x10. That's way overkill. I also get that it would work in every situation. 

The one we have next month is dimensional lumber and we will simply sister additional lumber prior to cutting down joist in the shower area.


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