# Leveling Stairs



## 4319hendrie (Apr 19, 2006)

This is probably a pretty tall order but I can't come up with any solutions. A friend of mine (siding installer/jack of all) bought a house and is renovating it. Older house and it has settled over the years. The steps are no longer level. He was wondering if there is any way to use a 32" X 7" "shim" to level out the steps. I cant think of any way to make one, whether it would be code or not (probably not) or if there is any other way short of tearing out the stringer. If somebody has a solution I'm sure it's somebody here. Thanks


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

How far does he have to raise it? I build stairs onto uneven concrete all the time. I end up having to cut the BACK of the stringer to the front 1/2" - 0" all the time to get them to sit level. It does not change the rise/run but it makes it sit with the concrete. 

In this case I image he would want to cut shims from 0" - ??" the length of the bottom stringer cut where it contacts the concrete. 
THIS MAY NOT be possible depending upon how far out of level he is. As I would not want that shim to be much more than 1/2" or so at its largest point.


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## 4319hendrie (Apr 19, 2006)

Ok i apoligize i wasn't very clear in explaining. The staircase that is out of level is between the 1st and 2nd story of the house. He was asking me if I could come up with a way to use a "wedge" 7" deep 32" wide and a .5" at the front and zero at the back. Apprently it feels like you are leaning when you walk the stairs. I haven't seen the house yet. But I wonder if it would be possible to take the treads off and cut the stringer level. Just an idea.


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## karma_carpentry (Aug 7, 2005)

That's a pretty narrow stair at 7"
1/2" is a heck of a lot off level in 7"
Can you remove the treads fairly easily or is it a housed stringer?

Instead of cutting wedges the whole width of the tread, it would be better to level it off at the stringers, not the treads.

If you cut away the backs of the birdsmouths you'll be reducing the beam strength of the stringers - better be sure there's enough meat left over to carry the load.

Also careful how it affects the top and bottom stair rises, whatever you do.

Interesting one. How did it get into this off-level condition?


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

He may want to look into the entire structure. There may be a lot more going on here.

I agree to attack the errant stringer but go slowly. It took a lot of time to get into its present position. Is the stringer (low side) attached to a wall?


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Sounds more like the foundation need to be jacked and new pier pads installed. 

I wouldn't cut into the stringer to level off.


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## 4319hendrie (Apr 19, 2006)

Everybody has alot of good points, especially the 7" being real narrow, I thought the same thing myself, I probably misunderstood what I was being told. But I would guess the house is at least 80 years old, and it was an unfinished attic. Its very possible the stairs were just very very narrow. 

Based on what you guys are telling me, and so i can give a better description I should probably take a trip over to see what he is talking about. I have no idea how the stairs would have gotten that out of level, and if they really are that bad it makes me wonder about the rest of the structure. 

I will find out as much as I can next time I talk to him. Hopefully he has a solution. I'll keep posting. Thanks Everyone


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## pwrpapa (Jul 3, 2005)

I would jack the floor up to where it was when first built.
you could put a few steel beams under the exsisting joist with some new concrete pads like JustaFramer said.


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Yeah when I was out looking at some houses to buy my wife said no because the stairs scared her. This is typical of older homes with stairs that have a run of 6-7" and rise or 9". I kept telling her I would rebuild the stairs but she was pregnant at the time so I just caved. :blink: 

It could just be the fact that the stairs are old. I would check the walls around it to see how plum they are and the floor at the bottom and top of the stairs for level. A 1/2" can be played with a bit in the stairs to fix. But I would want to build them to current code. I find that stairs built to current code to flow smooth when walking them. Typically a rise between 7 3/8-7 5/8" but can be anything as long as the don't exceed 7 3/4" rise. The run has to be 10" with a 11 1/2" thread which makes bullnose to bullnose 10". 

The only problem I see with rebuilding the stair is the room you have to work with. I have found that most older stairs are built that way because of tight space.


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## clampman (Feb 25, 2006)

Justa,

Man you're hard core. I like that. Got a pregnant wife and your idea of caving in is to buy her an outhouse with comfortable stairs. 

My ex would have chopped my [email protected] off while I was sleeping if I didn't get her indoor plumbing.:clap:


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## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

clampman said:


> Justa,
> 
> Man you're hard core. I like that. Got a pregnant wife and your idea of caving in is to buy her an outhouse with comfortable stairs.
> 
> My ex would have chopped my [email protected] off while I was sleeping if I didn't get her indoor plumbing.:clap:



LOL I was typing so fast again I put the words in the wrong order. :jester:


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## BrickTricks (Jan 9, 2007)

I guess you got your answers - all being said is pretty much true. I spent years down in Baltimore City rehabbing the rennausance. Those stairs are all that way 32" is the wider model! -lol- I've see 29er's w/ 7 - runs and 9+ rise. Where are the steps? What kind of house row, or individual? In the rows a beam pocket was cut in the brick wall to hold the header for the stairs, over the years the mortar was inferior, and vibrations losened it, and the header plate eventually droped lower in the pocket - then where it was attached to the floor joist - they only used cut nails - no joist hangers back then. But, they didn't have Mcdonalds & Burger King either! A lot of building codes today are because of McDonalds, and the joist hanger industry was created too, because of them! How else do you get a 400 POUND HEFFER safely from a lower level to a higher level, and vise versa, and avoid a law suit! LOL!:laughing:


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