# flashing detail on residential



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

On my computer the picture is pretty small and grainy, can't see a lot of detail, what's insulation or what's concrete. If the brick/pavers are against concrete I wouldn't flash it neither would i have an air space. I would put my flashing at the sill plate level. Basically teat the brick that's against the concrete as though it's part of the foundation

Earlier i thought you were asking if the sides/vertical edges of a step foundation needed to be flashed


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

dom-mas said:


> On my computer the picture is pretty small and grainy, can't see a lot of detail, what's insulation or what's concrete. If the brick/pavers are against concrete I wouldn't flash it neither would i have an air space. I would put my flashing at the sill plate level. Basically teat the brick that's against the concrete as though it's part of the foundation
> 
> Earlier i thought you were asking if the sides/vertical edges of a step foundation needed to be flashed




Hmmm... did you try clicking on it? It should expand a bit. I uploaded it from my 'smart' phone.

I have to have an air space behind the brick on the lower level of exposed foundation due to the layout of the wall. The studded portion of the wall is flush with the edge of the foundation, so I couldnt really fudge it.

Regardless, thanks for all the input.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

*Flashing*

Any peel and stick membrane could do the trick for you. I guess we are getting into the semantics of things. If the peel and stick membrane were 4" wide and was directly under the brick,you could call it a bond break. If it were 8" wide and went up the face of concrete as well it would be bond break/flashing. In any case,an old rule of thumb in construction (not always applied but it should) any time you change material,break the bond. That rule has been around for quite some time. I will say though,when i first entered the trades,the logic was leave top of foundation rough/grainy to enhance bond with brick. Along comes the late '70s the mindset changed to troweled smooth with bond break.


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## xcmason (Mar 20, 2008)

I think the problem with the picture is that most of the brick ledge stepping down is directly behind the material planks in your picture. Looks like you only have about 4 vertical feet of concrete foundation behind the brick at the lower corner, so if you ran your flashing across at the sill plate height you'd probably be OK. Wouldn't have been a bad idea to have had a water proof membrane sprayed on the wall and ledge though.


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## 2low4nh (Dec 12, 2010)

when we are using copper or metal flashing at the base we always carry it up the step in lay it just like a step flashing. I do it that way as a personal prefrence. I think it will help carry any water where it has to go and not find its way out through a random joint or carry across the brick face.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Thats a big drop, normally it isnt that much of a step and we use lead on that portion and bring the paper over it. I would assume it would either need to be filled solid and have the weepers up higher, or yes run the flashing down. What flashing, you got me. Maybe just tar it, dunno.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

problem with running the flashing down is then you need weepers way down there, close to grade, good place for water to get in, snow blocks them in the winter ans bugs also think they're great. better to grout the void and flashand put in weepers up higher. 

My opinion


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

dom-mas said:


> problem with running the flashing down is then you need weepers way down there, close to grade, good place for water to get in, snow blocks them in the winter ans bugs also think they're great. better to grout the void and flashand put in weepers up higher.
> 
> My opinion


Ya that would make sense.


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