# Roof sealants



## enforcer (Aug 25, 2008)

any of you guys use OSI Quad on a roof?
How about silicone especially when doing a counter flash? Is silicone acceptable?
Opinion on solar seal?
Thanks guys


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

When we did a lot of roofing, we only used Geocel Tri-Polymer sealants. One of our guys preferred Vulcrum, but never OSI Quad for roofing applications.


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## enforcer (Aug 25, 2008)

What about silicone? If not, why not?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

We used the Geocel 2300 because it was not only designed for roofing applications, but was an approved product by all of the shingle manufacturers that we used. One reason a Tri-Polymer is superior to Quad or silicone is that it stays flexible and plyable in all kinds of temperature extremes, resists any type moisture and isn't as prone to UV degradation over time.


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## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

NP-1

To be honest I'm not exactly what anyone would use silicone for besides maybe tub and tile caulk, even there I use NP-1

http://www.basf-cc.com.au/en/products/Jointsealantsandjointsealingsystems/Sonolastic%20NP1/Pages/default.aspx


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

The only time I've had Quad on a roof is when I have to clean it our because somebody else used it and it is leaking. The Geocel stuff is great.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

geocel 2300 is the way to go. just do it.


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## welterweight (Nov 10, 2009)

Silicone is problematic if there is any moisture when applying.. I always use solar seal. Geocell is good as well.
Osi quad is meant for siding or the exterior of a window. Never a roof.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

Geocel 2300 here.


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

geocel 2300 is what i use most of the time. on occasion i will use np1


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## OldNBroken (Feb 8, 2008)

Geocel has always been a good product. Our mainstay is NP1 though.

Not a big fan of silicone. As stated above, quad has no business on a roof.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Have not heard of or seen Geocel around here. I have been using Through The Roof , it works pretty good can even be used if things are wet. I don't use silicone for any exterior work, just does not hold up.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I have used them all, solar seal is the cats rear end. Silicone is not in intended for the heat of a roof. 
Cold cured solar seal will destroy a lennox gold titanium utility blade in about 4 windows flat. 

For my chimneys I try to stick the pieces to the brick with a neoprene cement ( as it is 1/4 the cost) then caulk the perimeter on the outside of the flashing and the overlaps with solar seal. (I have stuck many thousand pieces with solar seal as well but it isn't so cost effective)

I find geocell very stringy and a pain to work with but does come in a plastic tube, quad works but does not seem to stick as fast or as well.


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

1985gt said:


> NP-1
> 
> To be honest I'm not exactly what anyone would use silicone for besides maybe tub and tile caulk, even there I use NP-1
> 
> http://www.basf-cc.com.au/en/products/Jointsealantsandjointsealingsystems/Sonolastic%20NP1/Pages/default.aspx


Silicone (especially clear) disappears with the work once it's done (besides all the other properties mentioned as well). It also doesn't shrink much, flexes with the surfaces it's adhered to and can be painted if necessary and/or accepts granules on top of it to camouflage any areas worked on that could be seen by the HO.


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## RandyB1986 (Jan 2, 2009)

I use Geocel, OSI or Solar Seal.......I don't like silicone.

2ndGen.........What brand of silicone do you use that you can paint? That is one reason I don't use silicone.....it is just to slippery and not sticky enough.


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## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

2ndGen said:


> Silicone (especially clear) disappears with the work once it's done (besides all the other properties mentioned as well). It also doesn't shrink much, flexes with the surfaces it's adhered to and can be painted if necessary and/or accepts granules on top of it to camouflage any areas worked on that could be seen by the HO.


Easy fix for this,

1. Learn to caulk. Hint: Soap and water help tool in any visible joints. Caulking works best sandwiched between two layers, not sitting on top of a surface. It will work just not as well. I guess ithats why NP-1 says "for professional use only" right on the tube.

2.) Most caulking manufactures make a plethora of colors, I thought NP-1 made a clear also but I can not find it on their web site.

Link to web
http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com/p02/USWeb-Internet/buildingsystems/en_GB/content/microsites/buildingsystems/products/items/Sonolastic_NP_1_Copy1

Lets face it, roofers need what maybe 1/2 dozen colors? Plenty of choices up there. 

I will give it the "flexibility" though. Silicone will flex more then polyurethane caulk by +/-15% 

Polyurethane is paint able and it will stick to things silicone just wont hold to. Granules are no problem.

I think your getting confuse with an acrylic caulk.


I would put NP-1 or any other high quality polyurethane caulk up against silicone and the polyurethane will win hands down.

Pay the $1.00 a tube and get a higher quality.


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

RandyB1986 said:


> I use Geocel, OSI or Solar Seal.......I don't like silicone.
> 
> 2ndGen.........What brand of silicone do you use that you can paint? That is one reason I don't use silicone.....it is just to slippery and not sticky enough.


GE. It's "apply and forget about it" good. 

As for what other brands I'll use... 
I'll go with what the supplier has that's worked well in the region. 
What works well in Florida might not work well in the Northeast. 
I tend to trust local suppliers with what they've had good luck with.

I will go for what works best first and then with what is convenient 2nd.


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

1985gt said:


> Easy fix for this,
> 
> 1. Learn to caulk. Hint: Soap and water help tool in any visible joints. Caulking works best sandwiched between two layers, not sitting on top of a surface. It will work just not as well. I guess ithats why NP-1 says "for professional use only" right on the tube.


That's why I prefer silicone. No "fix" needed. It goes on easy and 
can be manipulated to meet the sight conditions as needed. 



> 2.) Most caulking manufactures make a plethora of colors, I thought NP-1 made a clear also but I can not find it on their web site. Lets face it, roofers need what maybe 1/2 dozen colors? Plenty of choices up there.


But IMO, for roofing, an invisible caulk application (i.e. "made to 
look just like the roof itself) is always better than colored caulking. 
I almost always get compliments (by both homeowners and other 
professionals) at how nice the work looks when finished off with 
same material as the roof I'm working with. And, it's receiving the 
same surfacing that protects the roof for 30+ years and benefits 
from the technology that was invested in that material as well.


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## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

Your kidding your self. I'm pretty sure most manufactures recommend "tooling" of the caulk. Laying down a sloppy bead and pushing it in with the tip isn't tooling. 

Silicone should be left for indoors. Try a tube of something good you would be surprised. GE caulk is for HO


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

1985gt said:


> Your kidding your self. I'm pretty sure most manufactures recommend "tooling" of the caulk. Laying down a sloppy bead and pushing it in with the tip isn't tooling.
> 
> Silicone should be left for indoors. Try a tube of something good you would be surprised. GE caulk is for HO


ok.


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