# DensArmor Finish ?



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

I've been wondering ever since we started using
DensArmor in bath rooms, what do others use for tape and mud?
Seems a waste to use the paperless board
then finish with paper tape and same old mud.
Much as I hate fiber tape for anything but backer board
I have been using it here, but I wonder if there's 
something more mold resistant than 
regular setting compound to bed and skim.
GP has something they recommend called 
DensArmor Cote Ready Mix, but I can't find anything
that says what makes it any different to DuraBond.
Next job has a 5'X5½' tub room that has always been
mildew heaven, even with a new 80cfm I want insurance here.


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## McMasters (Feb 18, 2006)

*Mold in bathrooms - who is at fault...*

I prefer the paper tape over nylon even in bathrooms. To be safe I mix a little bleach into my durabond and make sure the the final topping coat is fresh material. Too often I see or smell mold in the topping bucket if someone forgot to properly cover the compound with plastic wrap before closing the lid. I tend to use topping very lightly as I have learned to get very close to flat with the second coat of durabond. Less sanding and overall labor costs go down. 

However the biggest mold problems I run into are caused by poor ventilation habits of the homeowners. I hear the following a lot:

(a). I don't like the noise of the fan.
(b). I forget to turn the fan on. 
(c). I always forget to turn the fan off so I don't really use it all the time. 
(d). The kids use this bathroom and I can't force them to use the fan.

My fix is to install a timer controller the runs both fan and lighting at the same time. Some clients object to the fan always being on but, the mold can be limited if you install a truly quite and properly sized fan and exhaust run. Truth is they need to either change their ways or change the system. 

Good luck and remember mold is a fact of life but, it is very seldom the end of it. A little education is often the best remedy to this problem.

Mike


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Yup,this one gets one switch,
fan and light no choices.
80cfm for 26 sf ought to vent it.


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## reveivl (May 29, 2005)

Hook the fan to a humidistat and leave it on.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

Can't say enough about dens armor.I did a basement one year ago where the homeowner wanted to save money.The job was done in regular 1/2" but the bottom 4' of the walls were dens armor.The basement flooded and had about 4 inches of water on the floor for at least two weeks.It looked like a crap bomb exploded.But the bottom 4' not a speck of mold even on the spackled areas.We used EZ-sand 90 to tape and coat and usg mid weight to top.Sounds like there would be a problem but there was'nt.I might suggest using zinzer primer to be safe.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

One more thing you may want to look into XP board for mold/mildew right now it's purple board but they are going to make it green.This stuff works great. Dens Armor may be overkill for baths.Plus XP paints like green so you don't deal with texture complaints.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Thanks.
I'd call that "field tested"! :laughing:
Good to hear real life experience. :thumbsup:


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

No problem,good luck and don't sweat it


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

But what was behind the drywall in the stud bays?


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

Foam insulation. The problem was the house was made wider.Where they excavated for the new foundation they left a space about 2' wide with no gutters.Then we had three straight days of rain.The tie in to the house had a big leak and all the water channeled to the hole.The basement was 6' below ground level.All the water went right into the basement.The pump wasn't in for that level yet so it sat there.


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## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

BUTCHERMAN said:


> Foam insulation. The problem was the house was made wider.Where they excavated for the new foundation they left a space about 2' wide with no gutters.Then we had three straight days of rain.The tie in to the house had a big leak and all the water channeled to the hole.The basement was 6' below ground level.All the water went right into the basement.The pump wasn't in for that level yet so it sat there.


What about the studs themselves? Did you check the studs?


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

The painters ended up bleaching the walls.They didn't want to rip it down.The only reason i even know about it was that i went back to take care of puchlist repairs(such as reloacated electric outlets on the 2nd floor)this house was a renovation that was made wider. They didn't want me to address the problem.So my guess is it was never checked.But there is no question that the mold came from the inside over primed walls.The walls didn't show water damage at all.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

everyone here loves durabond.

spent the last 25 min calling every drywall supply shop in San Diego. nobody has it  one guy says he gets a call for it about once a year.

just gonna use easysand setting compound to set the mesh on the densArmor anyone strongly recommend against that??

gp sells the toughrock setting compound but a search within 50 of my zip brings up nothing


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

wopachop said:


> everyone here loves durabond.
> 
> spent the last 25 min calling every drywall supply shop in San Diego. nobody has it  one guy says he gets a call for it about once a year.
> 
> ...


 
I use ez sand and not durabond. There's no problem with it on any drywall product. I only use durabond when plaster walls are involved.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

thanks man one less thing to worry about :thumbsup:

i saw a pretty cool video by mike bell where he uses a roller to apply compound and then goes over with a big blade.

is that how all you guys skim coat i need to skim the densShield and densArmor?

im more an electrician/carpenter/plumber when it comes to drywall im never that happy with the results it really is an artform...

going to spray a med. orange peel texture if that matters.


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## Tapingfool (Feb 28, 2008)

I suggest never using mesh for anything..only because of the fact that paper tape is better and lasts longer..


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

Tapingfool said:


> I suggest never using mesh for anything..only because of the fact that paper tape is better and lasts longer..


what about for remodel work i have densArmor and densShield meeting existing gloss painted wall?


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

If you have a high moisture area,
and you are going to the trouble 
and expense of using paperless board,
it would be foolish to use paper tape
and general purpose mud.... 
now wouldn't it.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

wopachop said:


> what about for remodel work i have densArmor and densShield meeting existing gloss painted wall?


You may want to prime the existing wall. Joint compounds don't stick to gloss walls well. I would use zinnser primer or plaster weld and cover the whole area you have to tie in.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

BUTCHERMAN said:


> You may want to prime the existing wall. Joint compounds don't stick to gloss walls well. I would use zinnser primer


so zinnser has the good stuff huh ill try to find it. around here kilz has taken over. any comments on kilz (reg or premium)

the gp website recommends ICI paint GLIDDEN int/ext. primer. ever work with that stuff? i will try to find this or the zinnser thanks for the heads up!!


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