# Anchor bolts can be this close...



## Jambe (Mar 19, 2018)

Yes, you are wrong. Guess you missed the .pdf house plans I posted.

But I don't want to upset anyone so I will be leaving the group.

I wonder how many of the guys here will be on DIYChatroom also.

You are right though. I've noticed that the site is "Contractor Talk", not "Contracting Talk" and I haven't contributed anything in that regard.

The only person I will miss is Andy. BTW, it seems he has been absent lately. :sad:


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## BattleBornNV (Jul 27, 2017)

Maybe this? Found this detail in our housing plans. Cantilevered sill plate maintaining edge distance for embedded anchor. Framer on this project installs TITAN HD anchors in lieu of the embedded anchors. 


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

elementbldrs said:


> You are supposed to use a taper top. I’ve seen some not use them and use a larger sill plate.




Ahh yes ! I can buy that detail. We call them brick ledge tops.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

BattleBornNV said:


> Maybe this? Found this detail in our housing plans. Cantilevered sill plate maintaining edge distance for embedded anchor. Framer on this project installs TITAN HD anchors in lieu of the embedded anchors.




These are the serious ones.

http://www.masco.net/pdf/catalogs/formingandaccessories/page200.pdf


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

Talk to your framer to formulate a plan.

I just did one and the framer agreed to use an oversized sill so that I could maintain both minimum anchor bolt coverage on the edge, and be inside the middle third of the plate.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

If I was framing on an ICF foundation( not likely by choice) I'd plan on using either a high density foam sheathing product 1.5- 2.0 " thick over 1/2"-3/4' OSB for shear strength on the wood framed walls, thus allowing the First story siding to be plumb to the tin or whatever protecting the lower foundation exterior insulation.

Solution B, install a water "table" detail to kick the water outwards off the bottom piece of siding to basement foam cover product(s)

Why not use over width sill plates(2" x 10-12") to allow anchor bolts to achieve max tension strength? And every inch inward the plate supports the floor joist makes the floor stiffer and less likely to have crush issues on long spans.

If this bothers you, just think of your wall being a 2-4" cantilever over the concrete part of the foundation wall, and install a few extra "blocking" boards in between the floor joists adjacent/ parallel to exterior wall(s).

As No foam may be left exposed in any living areas or mechanical rooms, the uber plate can assist in furring out the inside of the exterior walls for fire safety....

In my own work I use Hurricane/ Tornado straps Simpson anchors nailed off to joists and rim joists in addition to anchor bolts ( the longer the better especially in CMUs), https://www.strongtie.com/mudsillan...-ma-mab-masb_productgroup_wcc/p/lmaz.mab.masb


The truly cheap could use the heavy banding( from delivered products such as trusses) for home made anchors that were never exposed to moisture/corrosion, drilled for nails/screws,on a drill press prior to use, the part embedded in Concrete bent & twisted to increase pull out. 

I'd encourage the use of the treated plate material as part of the form bracing to keep the poured walls as straight as possible.:whistling


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## BattleBornNV (Jul 27, 2017)

Here’s the Arch detail that coincides with the struc detail I posted earlier. Showing the use of metal flashing to cover the foam. 


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

BattleBornNV said:


> Here’s the Arch detail that coincides with the struc detail I posted earlier. Showing the use of metal flashing to cover the foam.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




One thing I'd definitely do differently,ideally,I would pour the slab separate from stem wall. If not,at least transition the wall too slab on 45 degree angle,not 90 degree. That is a sure fire way to develop a crack if not done so.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Never in my life seen an ICF building. Thanks for the edumacation gentlemen.


Mike.
_______________


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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

Download the Logix handbook. Really is a cool concept. Get it down and your production goes up. Low investment equipment. 

I did them for a few years in Washington/Oregon area. We got the sales call on the product which led to the install which led to the whole buildout. 

Really worked for us. 


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## BattleBornNV (Jul 27, 2017)

fjn said:


> One thing I'd definitely do differently,ideally,I would pour the slab separate from stem wall. If not,at least transition the wall too slab on 45 degree angle,not 90 degree. That is a sure fire way to develop a crack if not done so.




Definitely not represented in the arch’s but struc details require a 1:1 chamfer thickened slab edge. Monolithic pour. Also 4500 psi, no air. Atrocious soil conditions and the Navy did not want to entertain PT. So.... 60” OX with a gnarly sub section. Basically a runway section. They still crack. 
Only 2 types of concrete:
Cracked and gonna crack. 


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