# Screened porch frame design



## UpNorth

A screened porch is a framed structure for which the frame is the finish, or if it isn't, the ugly underlying #2 SPF frame parts are all covered up with finish.

If the frame is thus clad in finish, it may look bulkier than it needs to be, unless bulk and detail is what one is after.

If you've any details, photos, or articles to share about how you build efficient, spare, elegant screened porch frames, I'm all ears.

Here is a detail from my file, and a render view of one I did. What do you have? I am in a design rut, and need some new ideas.


----------



## Tom Struble

probably not what your looking for but i framed the windows and door with pt then clad it with cedar


----------



## griz

Screened porches are not real common out here. And maybe what I'm thinking is way different than what you are looking for. But what I have been involved in the framing was clear KD Redwood or Cedar. If solid beams were not available Architectural Grade Glu-Lams were used.


----------



## Paulie

I did one this summer that I previously posted awhile back. From the sounds of it your looking for a clean, kinda light and airy look. More modern from the one I did, in fact I had to match the new porch to a very old house. I think the trick is to space out the screens and give the porch height in the interior which I achived with a vaulted hip roof. My pictures are very poor, I never can get far enough back.  The posts are standard 4X's and wrapped in Mirtec. Although they are bulky we spaced out the posts about 4' and gave it a high ceiling plus the vault.


----------



## Willie T

I'm intrigued about your inverted hangers. Tell us about the why's and wherefore's of doing that. Please? Just to carry the weight of the beam at the end of the cantilever?


----------



## SDC

Here are a few


----------



## SDC

And a few more


----------



## PrestigeR&D

*well....*

Have you thought of arched screens with a surrounding raised panel.... it involves some work.. but will make a statement unlike everything square and drab that is out there:thumbsup:.... just my opinion.. 

B,


----------



## UpNorth

Arched screens? Sure.


----------



## jeffatsquan

I build timber frame porches and apply my screen to the frame.


----------



## UpNorth

It's the unwrapped look I think I like. The posts, the rails, the shoe rail, and the spandrel/frieze beam, all au naturale. Clear WRC.

But maybe not, I don't know. I'm floundering.

The detail shown here was a job that got done by a timberframer, and he did the posts into the beam with tenons, did a joint thing at the corners, and made the spandrel/frieze beam as a single sawn member. See the other pic.

Pegs sticking out.

What do you do for elegant simplicity?


----------



## jeffatsquan

UpNorth said:


> It's the unwrapped look I think I like. The posts, the rails, the shoe rail, and the spandrel/frieze beam, all au naturale. Clear WRC.
> 
> But maybe not, I don't know. I'm floundering.
> 
> The detail shown here was a job that got done by a timberframer, and he did the posts into the beam with tenons, did a joint thing at the corners, and made the spandrel/frieze beam as a single sawn member. See the other pic.
> 
> Pegs sticking out.
> 
> What do you do for elegant simplicity?


Curved braces


----------



## mrmike

This is not to hijack your post on the construction of a Screened porch, but just to say how great they are ! I have had one since I was young and would not be without one. I am amazed and amused at all the "fancy" homes built without the plans for one but have a big patio or deck attached. You can't use them when it is too hot, raining, or if many bugs are out-but you can with a screen porch & still enjoy the outside..........I wouldn't give 2 cents for a deck without one-been there...................

When we vacation anywhere we look for something with a screened porch. I ask all my customers with one-and they all say the same-they spend all their time out there..........................


----------



## UpNorth

How is screening attached to your timber framed panels and their curved braces?


----------



## jeffatsquan

Sorry been away from compty all day

Mr.Mike you are right-on about screen porches.

I mortise and tenon all timbers to be flush to the outside. This gives me a flat plane to attach screen and cover with a molding.
I like to use a 7x7 with a 3-1/2 x 5-1/2 brace (this is the piece that is curved) and the 3-1/2 centers on the 7x7 so it is not involved with the screen


----------



## UpNorth

Thanks, Jeff.

Here are some details of what I've done. Mid-rails of 2x4 stock fix to the posts using 5" screws angled through posts, pilot holes angled up a little, begun tight to bottom of rail opposite. Little to no fastening visible.

Have not done any screen fixing using outside battens. Show us some finish if you have pics.


----------



## UpNorth

Here is another option for screen attachment.


----------



## jemmincoaster

It was great to see all the screening porch designs, some of them were really fabulous. I used to build a screened in porch for past clients. This experience gave me a unique perspective on what works and what does not when it comes to screening the porch designs.


----------



## dproc

I have some porch pics here for ideas

http://s478.photobucket.com/albums/rr149/DCP-pics/


----------



## jhammer7

dproc, Thanks for posting the pics.

UpNorth, is that Revit that your using to draw?

I have a shed roof screen porch in design stage right now that I'm trying to get and prep for a winter build to have ready next year.


----------



## Jaf

Porch I finished in Sept. I do 1 or 2 a year. Make improvements and changes each time I build one. Done more stand alone porches then decks so far.


----------



## Jaf

inside, HO took photo, pulled it from my facebook page. Wish it showed the ceiling, 1x6 beaded v-joint cathedral.


----------



## Jaf

Just a note, the 4x4 posts between the windows are bare pressure treated. Not wrapped. I coat them with cabot problem solver, let them dry while I build the rest of the porch, then paint them with latex. Most customers go....... when they see the 4x4s go in, but after the porch is done, the concerns go away. I point out the savings between the SYP and the Cedar, and so far I've only done one with cedar.


----------



## jhammer7

How about the beadboard is that m.r. mdf or pvc,?


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Jaf said:


> Just a note, the 4x4 posts between the windows are bare pressure treated. Not wrapped. I coat them with cabot problem solver, let them dry while I build the rest of the porch, then paint them with latex. Most customers go....... when they see the 4x4s go in, but after the porch is done, the concerns go away. I point out the savings between the SYP and the Cedar, and so far I've only done one with cedar.


 Very nice, I love bead board:w00t: Way out here in the big pond we have to use pressure treated wood every where or the little bugs will eat it,oh 
sh they eat it anyway!:furious: Makes a lot of work for us:clap: yes the termite is our friend:whistling


----------



## builder49

*Porch Ideas*

UPNORTH,
This is an idea the Homeowner gave to me which I used on their Porch this summer. They wanted to take storm door panels (aluminum) and incorporate them into the design like "Easy Change" door panels. I was apprehensive at first, but it came out well. Hope this helps. JAF, Paulie and Dave; I like your designs. builder49


----------



## UpNorth

B49, can you provide a little more detail?

What swaps out with the screen panels? Glass or plexi in same type frame?

Can you provide details at stops and sills? What is used to fix panels in place?

Was the porch designed around standard sizes of panels?


----------



## builder49

*Porch Detail*

UpNorth,
The porch design was based on using stock 36" Anderson Storm Door panels and discarding the z-bar frames and hardware. (They wouldn't sell just the door blank) The bottom is fixed glass and the top half is a "roll screen" system which rolls up or down to have either glass or screen. The Homeowner's were not concerned with having a full screen. They wanted ventilation on the top half and the flexibility of sliding up the screen quickly if it were to rain. The glass is tempered.
After framing the deck i installed 1x4 T&G Fir flooring pre-primed on three sides, sanded the floor and first coated with porch & deck enamel. I installed a 2x8 p.t. plate with a bevel and drip kerf. The walls were framed on top of this plate with double 2x6 k.d. to create the rough openings for the panels. I had to incorporate sheer wall panels at the ends of the front wall. Before installing the panels, i treated the 2x8 p.t. plate with two coats of epoxy to seal and finish.
Attached are a few pictures and sketch which show the detail. After framing the r.o.'s etc. I trimmed out the exterior with 1x pine stops carefully detailing so the storm panels would lie flat against these stops set in silicone. After installing the standard door sweep I set the panels in place resting on 1/8" p.t. shims. The door sweep has double 1/4" rubber weatherstripping on the bottom, so this effectively sealed to the plate. I did not caulk the bottom because the weatherstripping sealed out any water/wind and this would allow moisture/condensation if any to escape. The interior was trimmed out with 1x pine stops similar to trimming out a door or window. 
I would not recommend using Anderson Doors for this application because of the way the "Roll Screen" is designed. The roll screen rolls up into the top and can be opened for repairs/replacement. The problem is that once the door panel is set into the rough opening and trimmed out with 1x pine, you can't access the screen without removing all the stops. I believe Larson Doors are designed in such a way that you can access the screen even with the stops applied. The homeowner had already gone out and purchased the Anderson's. Hope this helps. builder49


----------



## builder49

*Porch Detail*

UpNorth,
Hope these come through, builder49


----------



## UpNorth

Thanks for the details, and the photos. When I look at the Andersen Emco site, I see a large replacement parts catalog, and that catalog lists a number of panels for different door models, screened and glazed, priced as if for sale as parts, without the need to buy the whole door.

Your description of what got bought and used is still not making sense to me. Did you buy entire door leaves, then remove the screen/glass panels for use in the project, and discard the rest?

Handsome job.


----------



## builder49

*Anderson Doors*

UpNorth,
They bought the whole door unit which included the door panel, z-bar frame, sill, door handle, closer and hardware. When i asked my building supply people about just the door, they said you had to get the "whole thing" I look into the anderson/emco sight. Thanks, builder49


----------



## jhammer7

*ceiling details*

Thanks for posting the pics.

How were the ceiling details achieved? 

I'm working on a design and they want some type of beadboard or v match in the ceiling. It's going to be a low slope shed roof and I was thinking about going 30" on center rafter spacing with 3/4 sheathing on top of the rafters with purlins added for additional support and allowing the beadboard to run inbetween.

BTW can anyone tell me how to add quotes back into my replies?

Thanks,

J


----------



## builder49

*Ceiling Detail*

jhammer7,
The ceiling is the roof. I had to use a structural ridge beam (double 9 1/4" lvl's, double 2x8 rafters 36" o.c. with 2x6 T&G. I pre-primed and finish painted the 2x6 T&G boards before installing to the rafters. Once installed, I just papered and shingled. Hope this helps, builder49


----------



## builder49

*Finished Ceiling*

jhammer7,
The finished ceiling: just boxed in the lvl's with pine. builder49


----------



## Snobnd

Looks real Nice Builder49.
Has that Cape Cod feeling - if you look at my Avatar you will see a CDC ( Combination Door Co) Project I did a few years back.
When the Owner wants a Breeze she can replace the Glass with Screen Panels.

What part of Shelburne Falls are you in?? I used to go up to Colerain RT 100 at the Edge of Mt Snow.
Did a lot of Snowmobiling with the Club Colerain Stump jumpers.

http://www.combinationdoor.com/3season.html


----------



## jhammer7

Thanks 49, I have not worked with that 2 x 6 material. So does that serve as the roof sheathing? Are knots a problem or is it clear? Proper size roofing nails?

I wonder what the greatest span might be?

J


----------



## builder49

*2x6 T&G Fir*

jhammer7,
I'm not sure of the span rating because it definitely spanned 36" so i never looked into it. It should be rated to at least 48" The material is pretty beefy - 1 1/2' with a substantial T&G. I probably had only 5% waste due to knots, splits etc. I had it delivered. If i picked it up and sorted myself, the waste percentage would be better. The knot issue wasn't a problem. The material could be sanded and finished natural, however I went the paint route. I spot primed with BIN and pre primed everything with oil primer and one finish coat B.M Low Luster Acrylic "Brilliant White" After installation, I used some Abitron Wood Epox to fill any small holes, gouges and loose knots that came out. Then finish painted. Actually, the Homeowner wanted a "Cottage Effect" and wasn't concerned about the knots.
The roof was easy after that because the top of the 2x6 T&G boards were flat. Installation went pretty well but on occasion I had to use a pry bar and cleat to force a board into straight similar to installing a long deck board. I fastened with 16d gun nails. After installation, I used 30# felt and shingles with 1 1/4" roofing nails. Penetration was NOT an issue. Just be carful not to use too long of a nail to install ridge cap. I would use it again. builder49


----------



## builder49

*Easy Change Doors*

Snobnd,
Thanks for the compliment, i have used "Easy Change" doors before and like them. I have a complaint with the door handles that come with them when using as an operable door. They are too close to the strike jamb, come loose too easily and just don't "feel" right. Other than that, they are great. In my case, the Homeowner didn't want to be bothered with removing/installing the panels to go from screen to glass. Using the Anderson screen away doors solved that problem. It's only draw back is that you only have the top half with ventilation and don't have the full panel screen. Also, with "Easy Change", you can stain or paint to match the situation. 
I live right in town. around the corner from McCusker's Market. i have a friend who lives right on rte. 112 (Jacksonville Rd.) on the way up to snowmobile heaven. Very nice area. Thanks, builder49


----------



## SDC

I use these quite a bit for the cost savings to the homeowner. I get them at Harvey Building Products. It is an Aluminum Porch Enclosure System. I use Azek porch flooring
Vinyl post sleeves
Azek boards for all trim details 
Vinyl beadboard for the ceilings


----------



## AustinReDevelop

UpNorth said:


> B49, can you provide a little more detail?
> 
> What swaps out with the screen panels? Glass or plexi in same type frame?
> 
> Can you provide details at stops and sills? What is used to fix panels in place?
> 
> Was the porch designed around standard sizes of panels?


@UpNorth
I grew up in CT and one of my favorite memories was of the full length covered porch on the back of the home. In the summer the breeze was great and the screens kept out the bugs. In the fall and spring we extended the use with glass windows. It was a really simple design. We built the framing for the porch so that each section could be fitted with a screen or window framed piece. In the spring we removed the windowed frames and put those in the garage, brought out the screened frames and installed those voila, 8 months of use from the porch. 

I don't have any drawings for the design, but I can sketch some quickly and post. Some design pluses were actually unintended, but help in the switching and anchoring of each window/screen section. :clap:


----------

