# Ditra in Home depot



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

sepindustries said:


> I should have expected this. ive never been to upland. I have a television. and internet here in memphis. i have in fact seen a lot of modernization in the technology of tiling over the years. but clearly don't know any other method that works involving rubberized underlayment. so please do when you get the time put down your beer and explain how you lay tile on a stud wall over a tub or in a walk in shower on a second floor that lasts for years and years without water eventually leaking unto the downstairs ceiling. starting with the studs how do you mount your tile that doesn't involve some sort of dinosaur concrete board technology that i use? that would be a good conversation to discuss. i would love to learn new things and as i made more than clear above, i never claimed to know everything or that my way was better than anyone elses. btw i have not yet seen as i have just looked one installation of ditra on shower walls. i can only seem to find pictures of it on floors. which is consistant with the times ive seen it here on jobs when other people are using it. just wondering how you would mount this to studs without using some sort of osb or backing plywood that wouldn't eventually break down from moisture whether it condenses or leaks. because the stuff i have seen is way too thin to simply screw or nail to studs.


Your methods and materials are dated. Very dated. You need to look into products like Wedi board, kerdi board, redguard, aqua defense etc etc. it seems you have a lot to learn about doing a job correctly and using the correct products. The first thing you went wrong by was saying you use mastic. May as well put your tile up with peanut butter. There's a lot of big home builders around that use the worst products and worst install methods. I ain't meet any in this area who do a good job upto yet. Most if their work don't even meet code minimum so silly to use working for a home builder as a way to say working for one us the reason your good. Stick around you will learn a lot.


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

BCConstruction said:


> Your methods and materials are dated. Very dated. You need to look into products like Wedi board, kerdi board, redguard, aqua defense etc etc. it seems you have a lot to learn about doing a job correctly and using the correct products. The first thing you went wrong by was saying you use mastic. May as well put your tile up with peanut butter. There's a lot of big home builders around that use the worst products and worst install methods. I ain't meet any in this area who do a good job upto yet. Most if their work don't even meet code minimum so silly to use working for a home builder as a way to say working for one us the reason your good. Stick around you will learn a lot.


I appreciate the fact that at least you were respectful
weid, kerdi- brands of basically Styrofoam with a little concrete dust on one side to adhere the mortar to? really.. I want a shower I can bump my elbow against and put a hole in the backerboard. you have named a bunch of brands of foam and water proof sheetrock. what around here in construction is used by the half ass hurry up and move on to the next job pay the cheapest laborers to make the maximum profit builders you mentioned. I don't do new construction. I work for myself. I don't even call myself a tile man because I do more additions and wood repair than lay tile. so maybe my way is dated but again those products you mentioned are all plastic, rubber, Styrofoam and sheetrock based. so to me that would be cheap stuff that is inferior to half inch concrete board.


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

and btw I don't put my tile up with mastic. I use mastic only to waterproof the joints. I put my tile up with rapid setting gray mortar as I stated earlier on.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Kerdi is a membrane that goes on the floor, Ditra goes on walls. To each their own but we do cement board and kerdi for shower walls and will do red guard for things like tub splashes. 
We don't use them but the Kerdi boards are really strong. When you put even a small tile over something like that you would have to bump it with framing hammer on full swing to damage it given the force distribution given by the tile. There are a lot of really knowledgeable guys around here, if you would make your posts a bit more readable by doing things like capital letters to start sentences, paragraph spacing, and commas you would get a lot more respect and much more constructive responses.


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## Eric K (Nov 24, 2005)

Mastic is not waterproof. Not one bit. I use both of the brand cement boards you listed. Wonder board and hardibacker. With both I tape seams, mud with modified thinset, the redguard all seams and screw holes. Or board and kerdi if its a shower. Mastic is only used on backsplashes. Sometimes.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

sepindustries said:


> I appreciate the fact that at least you were respectful
> weid, kerdi- brands of basically Styrofoam with a little concrete dust on one side to adhere the mortar to? really.. I want a shower I can bump my elbow against and put a hole in the backerboard. you have named a bunch of brands of foam and water proof sheetrock. what around here in construction is used by the half ass hurry up and move on to the next job pay the cheapest laborers to make the maximum profit builders you mentioned. I don't do new construction. I work for myself. I don't even call myself a tile man because I do more additions and wood repair than lay tile. so maybe my way is dated but again those products you mentioned are all plastic, rubber, Styrofoam and sheetrock based. so to me that would be cheap stuff that is inferior to half inch concrete board.


Again you got a lot to learn about these products. You won't see many home builders using Wedi or kerdi board. They can build a complete bathroom for what a shower kit costs so unlikely. Lets teach you some stuff right now. Wedi board for example does a few thing hardi and CBU dies not. It insulates and sound proofs, it acts as a crack isolation layer, it don't soak up water, its covered with a modified thinset with a fiberglass mesh for strength, it will accept modified thinset between tile and the board, its light weight, it has a great warranty, it installs fast but is very expensive so saves labor, its available in different thickness so can match transitions, pans come pre slopped and can be cut to size by hand, 

Also they may be foam but you ain't gonna make a hole in a wall. If you decide you want to attack the wall with your feet and drop kick the wall then maybe you might put a hole in the panel. 

These products have been available for years. I have been using them for over 10 years with zero issues. Can't remember the last time I used CBU. 

There's nothing wrong with using CBU if you use the right products with it like redguard. That at least would set you apart from most other contractors. There's only a couple guys in this area using Wedi and I'm one of them. using advanced products others don't has advantages. def sets you apart from the pack.


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

sepindustries said:


> I should have expected this. ive never been to upland. I have a television. and internet here in memphis. i have in fact seen a lot of modernization in the technology of tiling over the years. but clearly don't know any other method that works involving rubberized underlayment. so please do when you get the time put down your beer and explain how you lay tile on a stud wall over a tub or in a walk in shower on a second floor that lasts for years and years without water eventually leaking unto the downstairs ceiling. starting with the studs how do you mount your tile that doesn't involve some sort of dinosaur concrete board technology that i use? that would be a good conversation to discuss. i would love to learn new things and as i made more than clear above, i never claimed to know everything or that my way was better than anyone elses. btw i have not yet seen as i have just looked one installation of ditra on shower walls. i can only seem to find pictures of it on floors. which is consistant with the times ive seen it here on jobs when other people are using it. just wondering how you would mount this to studs without using some sort of osb or backing plywood that wouldn't eventually break down from moisture whether it condenses or leaks. because the stuff i have seen is way too thin to simply screw or nail to studs.


I personally use all the schluter products. Ditra on the floors and Kerdi on the wall. Used to be I installed 1/2" durock the Kerdi over top in the shower stalls until they came out with Kerdi board, which beats the hell out of carrying and cutting and well using durock. You tape all the seams with Kerdi band. And you could take a shower with out and tile. 
Here are some pictures on how I waterproof showers. First two are 1/2" durock and third is Kerdi board.


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

Kerdi is a membrane that goes on the floor, Ditra goes on walls. To each their own but we do cement board and kerdi for shower walls and will do red guard for things like tub splashes. 
We don't use them but the Kerdi boards are really strong. When you put even a small tile over something like that you would have to bump it with framing hammer on full swing to damage it given the force distribution given by the tile. There are a lot of really knowledgeable guys around here, if you would make your posts a bit more readable by doing things like capital letters to start sentences, paragraph spacing, and commas you would get a lot more respect and much more constructive responses. Re: Ditra In Home Depot 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mastic is not waterproof. Not one bit. I use both of the brand cement boards you listed. Wonder board and hardibacker. With both I tape seams, mud with modified thinset, the redguard all seams and screw holes. Or board and kerdi if its a shower. Mastic is only used on backsplashes. Sometimes

ok. then I am wrong and stand corrected on the strength and maybe which brand I am referring to. I have never used the stuff so obviously I shouldn't knock the quality of it. I am only thinking of repair shows I have seen over the past years and a few times I was on jobs where ive seen it. there was a pile of scraps on a site I stacked on my cut table to bring my wood to the height of my saw fence one time and we were all commenting on what it was and whatever it was it was on the shower walls it was basically Styrofoam with mortar dust the could be broken and I rememeber thinking how I was glad it wasn't on my shower. this must have been some other brand. but it looked just like the stuff I see online as kerdi or weidi. removing old jobs I see what causes the problems and what works and doesn't but u are right and I have never taken apart a failed shower where this stuff was used so I cant criticize it. the mastic I use is absolutely waterproof. only if you allow it to fully dry. I have used the different mortars for movement but I still have found that they all have microcracks in them wherever two walls come together there is independent movement and all mortar based products I have ever used have fine cracks in them a few days after it dries. so u must be using some other brand or type that I am not familiar with. I have pulled many floors where they used that fortified mortar that's supposed to support movement and or stick to wood subfloors and in my experience it never does. but again I don't do tile everyday and im just one person in one small area and you are correct that I have a lot to learn. i will pay more attention the next time i see this new stuff and learn more about it. i wasn't trying to discredit those that use it. the red guard or whatever has been mentioned if that is a pinkish red colored liquid that you roll on like paint i have seen that many times. but just assumed i wouldn't be able to use rapid setting gray thinset to bond my tiles to it so i have never used it. i just don't have a lot of faith in new plastic stuff meant to replace old tried and true methods. the plastic water pipes that came out in the sixies or seventies (way before PEX or PVC) that was supposed to be so great that years later broke down and had to be replaced comes to my mind. i don't use pex. im sure there are a lot of plumbers that think pvc and pex for pressurized water is great. but i work in so many 100 plus yo houses that have copper that's been there for 70 or so years and still has never changed. i just have always believed in the old tried and true methods of doing things. in my own experiences plastic always breaks down over time with heat, uv or movement. i started my first comment with the principle of mortar sticking to plastic or rubber. so what i have learned is that this stuff i assumed was plastic or rubber maybe isn't and there are better bonding agents developed to bond to them and there are newer and better ways that have been developed than the way i have always done this. i can accept that. i appreciate the good conversation. thanks for the tips i will educate myself further on this subject.


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

I personally use all the schluter products. Ditra on the floors and Kerdi on the wall. Used to be I installed 1/2" durock the Kerdi over top in the shower stalls until they came out with Kerdi board, which beats the hell out of carrying and cutting and well using durock. You tape all the seams with Kerdi band. And you could take a shower with out and tile. 
Here are some pictures on how I waterproof showers. First two are 1/2" durock and third is Kerdi board. 

so the third picture is the way that everyone now says it the best., if its so much more expensive as I think I read above somewhere why is it better? assuming my mastic is waterproof as I think it is my shower would look identical to that one except mine would be hardibacker on the studs flush with the surrounding sheetrock with all the joints taped with mastic and yours is kerdiboard taped with kerdimastic or whatever they make to use with their board? is the fact that it doesn't weigh as much and probably doesn't destroy a sawblade and fill the air with concrete dust when you cut it what makes it better? how much does a .5x3x5 sheet of that cost? that isn't what I saw at hd and lowes. ive never seen that ., I think what I saw was what you have in the first two pictures. it was more like a plastic membrane. they look good. thanks for taking the time to respond and post that. sp


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

sepindustries said:


> I personally use all the schluter products. Ditra on the floors and Kerdi on the wall. Used to be I installed 1/2" durock the Kerdi over top in the shower stalls until they came out with Kerdi board, which beats the hell out of carrying and cutting and well using durock. You tape all the seams with Kerdi band. And you could take a shower with out and tile.
> Here are some pictures on how I waterproof showers. First two are 1/2" durock and third is Kerdi board.
> 
> so the third picture is the way that everyone now says it the best., if its so much more expensive as I think I read above somewhere why is it better? assuming my mastic is waterproof as I think it is my shower would look identical to that one except mine would be hardibacker on the studs flush with the surrounding sheetrock with all the joints taped with mastic and yours is kerdiboard taped with kerdimastic or whatever they make to use with their board? is the fact that it doesn't weigh as much and probably doesn't destroy a sawblade and fill the air with concrete dust when you cut it what makes it better? how much does a .5x3x5 sheet of that cost? that isn't what I saw at hd and lowes. ive never seen that ., I think what I saw was what you have in the first two pictures. it was more like a plastic membrane. they look good. thanks for taking the time to respond and post that. sp


I believe my sheets come 49x64 and at something like 50 bucks. For me it makes sense, yes it costs more ok the material end but I can cut the stuff right where I'm working so it overall saves on labor and I do have to mover durock around, and I'll pay anything to not have to move or cut that stuff.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Sep,

It's good that you are finally using the internet to better your skills. But you are way,way behind new standards, methods, and material. That's why you stopped here isn't it? to learn and compare?

Go to the Hardi backerboard installation instructions. Where does it say to use mastic? Mastic formulas have changed since you started and aren't as waterproof as you think.(I've used the old formulas myself.)Even letting it dry longer won't make it more waterproof. Check the bucket. Some will tell you not to use in wet areas.

The plastic/liquid membranes have been used for years. Check out these websites:Schluter, Noble Company, Laticrete, Mapei,Customs Building Products (just for you Floormaster). The products have been used for years and people here comment on their success and failures with these products. You have everything to gain and nothing to lose by checking it out. Then when someone with a thousand posts comments on your method, you'll understand how much better you could be doing things if you took their advice.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

sepindustries said:


> ive seen it or something like it at lowes and hd for awhile now. never used it. still prefer hardibacker taped with mastic. I still cannot accept the idea that mortar will be stable anchored to flexible rubber.


The mortar does not bond to the plastic (not rubber) of the Ditra. The mortar when dry locks into the dovetail squares. It is designed not to have the mortar bond, it is a mechanical bond.

The sheer of Kerdi is greater than any TCNA spec. 

The Kerdi or Wedi boards are strong enough to be used as structural elements. 

Tom


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

SuperiorHIP said:


> Kerdi is a membrane that goes on the floor, Ditra goes on walls. \


You have that backwards.


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

The mortar does not bond to the plastic (not rubber) of the Ditra. The mortar when dry locks into the dovetail squares. It is designed not to have the mortar bond, it is a mechanical bond.

The sheer of Kerdi is greater than any TCNA spec. 

The Kerdi or Wedi boards are strong enough to be used as structural elements. 

Tom 

mechanical bond. wedge bond. either way my point was concrete based mortar DOES NOT bond to rubber,plastic, kerdi, or anything that isn't masonry;. but I get it you and the others are telling me its not masonry mortar its the same company that makes the kerdi, or whatever the new stuff is, that makes a specific mortar that obviously they sell you and claim that it does and I guess for those that are now using these new products will claim it does now bond ceramic,porcelin or natural or man made stone to it. so I feel I was right to say these new products don't work because mortar doesn't bond to them but I was ultimately wrong to say so because I didn't realize that obviously these same new products would also have newer mortars that in fact DO bond these products to them. if that makes any sense to you


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

i have had a terrible work day. feeling like i have all these new "ememies" because i simply stated i have not subscribed to the new methods and that i do things the way i know works for me best. i figured id get a lot of "hate" responses and i get on here now and see that i do not. i appreciate that. if i could relive the past day or so i would have never even commented on this post. i have seen a lot of new stuff that ive assumed was inferior to tile board and so i commented and now realize i really havent opened my mind and realized there are maybe better newer ways to get tile jobs done. i appreciate all those that have shown and proved that i was wrong. i accept i was wrong. i saw some plastic liner stuff a few times and assumed it was all plastic or styrofoam which i hate and really may not have known what i was talking about. thank yall. i stand corrected. i will find out what this stuff is really and maybe even start using it. i dont even do tile full time and honestly i have thought all day about it and really i think ive redone maybe sixty showers in my life. to me thats a lot but thinking about it some of you who tile for a living maybe do more than that a year and would consider my experience as nothing compared to doing it full time i realize that and i apologise for my assumptions. i love remodeling houses. i love building things i have spent my entire adult life remodeling houses and ive always wanted to join a remodeling/construction fourm and now midway thru my life have finally done so and i guess its hard and not easy for me to get the way this goes. i dont have a lot of faith in forums where on the internet you can be whatever you want and i guess unless i boastfully post pictures of my truck and tools and jobs ive done theres no real way to prove i am anyone who really knows this trade. i am jacking up a building and was planning to start a post to get some advice and really dont want to make enemies here and feel like i am just arguing with people which i have no intention at all to be doing so let me just finish by saying i admit i need to accept there are newer ways of laying tile than i know that could save time and labor and i will learn more about them before i make these type of comments that really just stir a lot of emotions because i can understand someone who has developed this and uses this method will defend it against someone like me who challenges it and reallly doesnt understand it. i appreciate all the constructive criticism. spi


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

sepindustries said:


> i have had a terrible work day. feeling like i have all these new "ememies" because i simply stated i have not subscribed to the new methods and that i do things the way i know works for me best. i figured id get a lot of "hate" responses and i get on here now and see that i do not. i appreciate that. if i could relive the past day or so i would have never even commented on this post. i have seen a lot of new stuff that ive assumed was inferior to tile board and so i commented and now realize i really havent opened my mind and realized there are maybe better newer ways to get tile jobs done. i appreciate all those that have shown and proved that i was wrong. i accept i was wrong. i saw some plastic liner stuff a few times and assumed it was all plastic or styrofoam which i hate and really may not have known what i was talking about. thank yall. i stand corrected. i will find out what this stuff is really and maybe even start using it. i dont even do tile full time and honestly i have thought all day about it and really i think ive redone maybe sixty showers in my life. to me thats a lot but thinking about it some of you who tile for a living maybe do more than that a year and would consider my experience as nothing compared to doing it full time i realize that and i apologise for my assumptions. i love remodeling houses. i love building things i have spent my entire adult life remodeling houses and ive always wanted to join a remodeling/construction fourm and now midway thru my life have finally done so and i guess its hard and not easy for me to get the way this goes. i dont have a lot of faith in forums where on the internet you can be whatever you want and i guess unless i boastfully post pictures of my truck and tools and jobs ive done theres no real way to prove i am anyone who really knows this trade. i am jacking up a building and was planning to start a post to get some advice and really dont want to make enemies here and feel like i am just arguing with people which i have no intention at all to be doing so let me just finish by saying i admit i need to accept there are newer ways of laying tile than i know that could save time and labor and i will learn more about them before i make these type of comments that really just stir a lot of emotions because i can understand someone who has developed this and uses this method will defend it against someone like me who challenges it and reallly doesnt understand it. i appreciate all the constructive criticism. spi


Use the enter key and break that up into paragraphs if you want anyone to read it...if you want everyone to ignore it carry on.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

no ones here to bash you. just get a lot of people who come along to claim they know what they are talking about and don't. 

I will admit there's a lot to learn. It's gonna take vastly more than 5years to become an expert in one trade let alone try and be even good at a few. This site is great for that. I have learnt more on here than I expected to as there's a lot of information available from the members. Go ahead and ask your other questions. The worst that can happen is he learn something. Be prepared for a possible bashing though. You got if pretty lightly compared to most.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

sepindustries said:


> The mortar does not bond to the plastic (not rubber) of the Ditra. The mortar when dry locks into the dovetail squares. It is designed not to have the mortar bond, it is a mechanical bond.
> 
> The sheer of Kerdi is greater than any TCNA spec.
> 
> ...


The mortar does not bond to Ditra. This is by design so the tile can move independently of the sub floor. 

The mortar does bond very well to the Kerdi, also not a rubber product. Otherwise the tile would fall off the walls. 

The mortar that should be used with Ditra is an unmodified mortar, it is less expensive than the modified mortars. It is portland based, so it is closer to masonry mortar than the latex modified mortar. The unmodified thin set has been around since the1960's, nothing new. Bonds just fine to all of the tiles and stone you listed. I can chose any brand I want, until a few years ago, there was no Schulter branded mortar. The choice of mortar as nothing to do with bond. It is all about how long one takes to cure over the other. The modified mortar will work very well to either product, just have to wait longer to grout. 

If all your mastics and mortars were water proof, there would have never been the need for shower pan liners and drains with weep holes. No mastic or mortar that is used for setting tile is waterproof. Take some cured mortar and place a drop of water on it, it will be absorbed. Mastic will deteriorate, never have seen a mastic container that did not warn against use in a wet area. 

Tom


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Hang around and you will learn some new things.
I did a tile job for the owner of a large cement company in Chicago. He has about 600+ recipes for concrete. I might know of 5. He's a wealth of knowledge. 
Same here. You'll get differences of opinion but you'll learn stuff.
Post your other question and get some solutions to your house jacking problem. 
You might find you have more friends than you think.


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## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

sepindustries said:


> I should have expected this. ive never been to upland. I have a television. and internet here in memphis. i have in fact seen a lot of modernization in the technology of tiling over the years. but clearly don't know any other method that works involving rubberized underlayment. so please do when you get the time put down your beer and explain how you lay tile on a stud wall over a tub or in a walk in shower on a second floor that lasts for years and years without water eventually leaking unto the downstairs ceiling. starting with the studs how do you mount your tile that doesn't involve some sort of dinosaur concrete board technology that i use? that would be a good conversation to discuss. i would love to learn new things and as i made more than clear above, i never claimed to know everything or that my way was better than anyone elses. btw i have not yet seen as i have just looked one installation of ditra on shower walls. i can only seem to find pictures of it on floors. which is consistant with the times ive seen it here on jobs when other people are using it. just wondering how you would mount this to studs without using some sort of osb or backing plywood that wouldn't eventually break down from moisture whether it condenses or leaks. because the stuff i have seen is way too thin to simply screw or nail to studs.


Do yourself a favor. Obtain a TCNA handbook, and try to attend a seminar put on by some of the leading names in the tile industry. Education is paramount to being a construction professional.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

sepindustries said:


> yes i have bits that cut dovetail joints ive used them building furniture.
> 
> for a lack of a better word at the time i used the term "wedge bond"
> 
> ...


Oh fvck right off...paragraphs or gtfo.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

What device are you using that dont allow you to use paragraphs? You on a etch-a-sketch :laughing:

People use these new products because they work well. Of course CBU can be used if you use the correct methods to attach and water proof the area. I see people screwing down CBU to ply all the time without any mortar between the CBU and Ply. If its done correctly its ok but if its not then no product is gonna work well. 

The new products also save you steps. I can put up sheets and then apply a sealant to water proof the joints. There's a large cost saving in labor that offsets the price of the better materials. By the time you have hung half your boards im already starting to apply my sealant and by the time your ready to mastic :blink: your joints im tidying up my work area and putting tools away. you still have to let the mastic dry and apply a water proof membrane over the CBU. 

Im not a big fan of ditra and kerdi as its way to many steps for what it costs to purchase. Thats why i use Wedi board. Both work great but one is much more simple to install than any other method on the market.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

sepi,

I'm not going to ***** about your presentation. You'll get it eventually.

For some reason you feel there is a small amount of mortar under the tile. That is not the case, you still need to set at a 90-100% coverage rate. If you set the tile on the Ditra and lift it, there should be full coverage on the back of the tile. 

The process choice is yours. I'm just way to old and lazy to carry around cement board. I also like knowing that the install is water proof, before any tile is installed.

You are also fixated on the use of "high tech mortar". The mortar used to set the tile to the Ditra is the most low tech thin set there is. No modifiers what so ever. It's the cheapest on the shelf.

BC, I also install Wedi, I prefer Kerdi board because I don't have to cut the half lap joints and notches. I hate working with the sealant also.

For you Noble fans, what's the required cure time of concrete to set Noble over it? You're correct, the Ditra does not have an ANSI certification, hard to do seeing as there is no ANSI test that can be applied to it. Schulter does certify it to meet all TCNA requirements for over concrete installations. Including those for crack isolation, without the need for soft joints, as required by Noble.

Tom


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

What half lap joints are you talking about Tom? I just butt mine up and apply sealant. The sealant goes on so quickly and easy I couldn't ever picture a more simple and tidy way to apply a joint sealant that the Wedi system.


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## sycamorebob (Dec 7, 2011)

LATICRETE STRATA_MAT is a next generation high performance uncoupling membrane:whistling


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> What half lap joints are you talking about Tom? I just butt mine up and apply sealant. The sealant goes on so quickly and easy I couldn't ever picture a more simple and tidy way to apply a joint sealant that the Wedi system.


That's because you aren't installing it properly, you have to cut a rabbit in the base for it to key into.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> That's because you aren't installing it properly, you have to cut a rabbit in the base for it to key into.


The base already comes with the rabbets cut.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> That's because you aren't installing it properly, you have to cut a rabbit in the base for it to key into.





BCConstruction said:


> The base already comes with the rabbets cut.


I have yet to do one that did not have to be fitted. End up cutting every base, the cutting in the rabbit. Maybe some day I'll get one that is sized to fit a standard pan.

For me, the sealant is a pain in the ....... Trying to get a 1/2" bead across the edge of the board, push the panels together, cover all the screws with sealant then spread it all out. 

Wedi makes a very nice product, I just don't like the sealant.

My favorite lineal dran is Nobles. It is well thought out. 

Tom


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Even if you do need to cut the rabbet it takes all of 30seconds with a cordless saw. 

What don't you like about the sealant Tom? It's very high quality and goes far if you don't over spread it. In the winter it dies thicken up a lot though. I just leave them in a bucket of hot water before I put it on. 

Def much faster and easier than thinset. I only used kerdi board once and never again. Being able to use modified thinset is also a big plus with Wedi.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

It is not the quality of the sealant, it is make by Sika and you can by it at Home Depot. It is Sika urethane construction adhesive. Very good product. I find it messy, most likely me.

When installing Kerdi board, no need to stop and apply the sealant. Just Kerdi band once your done installing the board. Mix the mortar, install the band, start setting tile. 

You can use modified, you just have to wait longer to grout. Not sure why everyone has an issue with un-modified mortar. I've heard the porcelain excuse, I never had one come loose. Notch the mortar, tight back butter on the tile, set.

Tom


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Haven't used Kerdi Board but have used WEDI. I'll compare the two when I try Kerdi.

I like the sealant method. Dries in about 30 minutes. Make sure you smooth it right away (but dried sealant can be shaved with razor blade if needed). Install board and "tile at 10".


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

The speed advantage of the WEDI is gonna be hard to beat. There's not one plus point of using kerdi over WEDI in my eyes and it's also more expensive. But if your like Tom and have trouble with the sealant then thin sets the way to go but I love the sealant. 

Like you say you can be tiling in a very short amount of time. The best bit is it's not that HD orange color either lol and not available to HO through HD as well.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> The speed advantage of the WEDI is gonna be hard to beat. There's not one plus point of using kerdi over WEDI in my eyes and it's also more expensive. But if your like Tom and have trouble with the sealant then thin sets the way to go but I love the sealant.
> 
> Like you say you can be tiling in a very short amount of time. The best bit is it's not that HD orange color either lol and not available to HO through HD as well.


I can't see how either one is vastly better than the other...but for the price of the foam if you arn't racing to beat the band do a mud pan.


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## sepindustries (Jun 2, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> Oh fvck right off...paragraphs or gtfo.


 
sure thing champ! what a terrible misinterpretation of what i thought you were asking. ill make sure i use perfect paragraphs from now on. good thing you were there to straighten me out, keep up the good work.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

this is why I hate tile work!


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Inner10 said:


> I can't see how either one is vastly better than the other...but for the price of the foam if you arn't racing to beat the band do a mud pan.


Agreed. It really comes down to time vs money. I use different methods for different situations.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Agreed. It really comes down to time vs money. I use different methods for different situations.



Exactly. I compare tile methods to golf clubs. They made different clubs for different situations. Of course I have a few favorites but know how to adapt to the situation.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Inner10 said:


> I can't see how either one is vastly better than the other...but for the price of the foam if you arn't racing to beat the band do a mud pan.


Oh yeah - tried to pm you. Got an error message said you can't receive pm. Wtf?


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