# Bending Azek



## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

The metal studs were in fact edge guides. Initial research I thought I had to get the oven much hotter than I actually needed it. The holes were to let the heat rise into the "baking shelf". In theory the edge guides would retain and radiate more heat. They just ended up making the edges swell more than the rest of the piece. So I took them out. I used a 100,000 btu heater and a 170,000 btu heater side by side to get it up to 220 degrees quick. 20 mins or so. Then I shut down the 170,000 heater and maintained that temp with the single 100,000 btu heater. It comes apart in two sections. One 12' and one 8'. Make sure you get a heater that is NOT thermostatically controlled. Other wise it shuts off once it gets above 95 degrees. I don't have any more photos right now. I have to disassemble it and get it back to the shop still. It's been out there for the last 4 weeks or so.


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

So I am thinking through a design that is 12' in length with 1/2" holes drilled for the first 6' and then 3/4" holes for the last 6' and a 170K BTU heater on one end. I am hoping the smaller holes will push more heat to the back to go through the larger holes to keep things more uniform. What kind of spacing did you use for the holes? What do you think of this?


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## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

I think that will be way too much heat. When you build your box. Seal off the back end and throw two grill thermometers on the end. One on the heating chamber. And one on the baking shelf. The holes work fine the same diameter all the way down. I used 1 1/4" @ 6" on center. Keep them towards the outside edge of the shelf so the material doesn't sag if it lays on the holes. 190 - 250 is optimum heat temp. Usually at 30 mins once the oven gets up to 200 in the baking shelf. Any other questions. I'd be happy to help.


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Cool, thanks Mike.


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## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

RobertCDF said:


> Cool, thanks Mike.


Let me know how it works out for you! The longest you'll wait is intially getting that oven heated up first thing in the morning. once it hits 200 degrees it stays hot all day as long as you keep a door covering the baking shelf. it's a heck of a lot easier if you build a jig table same height as the shelf so you can slide it out. if you try to pull it out and carry it it will sag and crease and you'll have wasted a board.. keep that in mind.. I learned that one the hard way..


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Hey Mike, 
We are going to start construction on our oven at the end of the week, can you give me some of the dimensions, just so I have some direction. I decided to do a 16' long oven. 

Thanks


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## MarkDeck (Dec 24, 2011)

RobertCDF said:


> Hey Mike,
> We are going to start construction on our oven at the end of the week, can you give me some of the dimensions, just so I have some direction. I decided to do a 16' long oven.
> 
> Thanks


Would be interested to see progress pics or a thread on the oven your building.


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## SelectDecks (Nov 27, 2011)

Once you remove the material from the oven how long do you have to work with it? Does it have to go directly into your jig table or is there a little bit of lag time before it will no longer bend?

If ya had to do it all over again would ya build your own or purchase one like Trex, which I think is about 5k


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## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

You have about 45 seconds to get it clamped. Sounds like its too quick. But the fact is. If you have your jig right infront of the oven. It's plenty of time. If I had to do it again. I wouldn't. 5 grand is ridiculous if you can build it yourself!


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

We had to put aside the oven construction a few days, maybe we'll start on Tuesday. I plan on drawing it up in Sketchup over the weekend so we have something to work from. I will take a ton of pics and even put the sketchup design up after everything is done.

Thanks again Mike for the pictures and inspiration, you saved me some money and I can't wait to build it and try it out.


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## RS Sam (Feb 9, 2009)

Very smart. Nicely done Mike :thumbsup:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

We used giant concrete drain pipes as heat tunnels with same heaters blowing into them while doing a doctors office a few years ago. Then placed our pliable hot as ya know boards in a pre-built plywood forms.


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## skillman (Sep 23, 2011)

Nice job with the bending the azek to your job.:thumbsup:


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Missed this thread...very nice results and quite the oven for sure. 

Some guys are full of ingenuity and yours shows :thumbsup:

What was the installation schedule as far as nailing or screwing and what filler, if any, was used.


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## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

This house is right on a bay so we used Simpsons stainless screws. Probably overkilled it on fasteners but better safe than sorry. We used bond & fill structural to fill all the holes and joints. Used a lot of PVC glue during installation for all joints. As well as polyurethane glue up against the subfascia.


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## JeepOnDecision (Jun 3, 2014)

Digging this one up from the grave

Are you still using your oven? 
How is it working for you?
What types of heaters do you use and where do you locate them?
Would 1/4"backer board be acceptable inside as woods seems a bit...flammable to me?

Thanks for you help

Todd


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## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

Just message him, easier way to ask him the questions...


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## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

I used Fire retardant treated ply. (Had a bunch left over from a recently finished job at the time)

I used the propane heater. We don't use them much down here in Florida. I don't know what the guys up north refer to then as but they're about 3' or so long. Slightly angled 12 or 14" diameter. Tubes. 

I haven't used the oven again after we did that job. No one has called looking for bent Azek. I will say it worked great. Sure did the trick.


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