# Transition from textured plaster to new drywall in basement stairwell?



## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

Does anyone have any pictures or ideas for transitioning from an existing sand/grit textured plaster wall to new sheetrock directly below for a new basement stairwell?

Here's a pic before the framing and new stairs went up. You can see where the existing textured wall stops at the I-beam. That I-beam on the right is a PITA to deal with. Basically the stairwell is already at 36" and I can't overlay the edges of the beam or I'll end up too narrow.

Thanks,
Dustin


----------



## MVH (Jun 24, 2007)

Back up in New England, all we did was use a 1x2 in the transition. Not too many basements down here, although some of the higher end homes are starting to have them.

Mike


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Have used a heavy base molding
with a routed "bead" or ogee profile
on the bottom edge.
If you have a problem with the beam
it would help to see a pic that's looking 
straight down the length of the beam.


----------



## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

I thought about the band around the perimeter but that would reduce the width of the stairwell at that point and I don't know if the inspector would approve of it.

I don't have an in-line picture but I threw together a quick sketch to show it. I screwed a piece of 1-3/4" LSL lumber I had laying around to the beam to act as a backer for the sheetrock. It's the right thickness at the bottom edge but it sticks out too far at the top edge due to the beam tilt so I'll have to shave it down enough to get the sheetrock to sit flush with the plaster.


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong
(and I'm sure they will)
but I think the minimum 36" is
on frame, 35" finish.
Long time since I've looked
I usually go for minimum 38" 
on frame.


----------



## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Variance.


----------



## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

neolitic said:


> Somebody correct me if I'm wrong
> (and I'm sure they will)
> but I think the minimum 36" is
> on frame, 35" finish.
> ...


I'm going by the IRC-



> R311.5.1 Width.
> Stairways shall not be less than 36 inches (914 mm) in
> clear width at all points above the permitted handrail
> height and below the required headroom height.


Visual guides on the right side.
http://www.stairways.org/codes_standards.htm


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Only you know your inspector,
but code being code,
I'd say sand and taper the plaster.
Then mesh tape and durabond.
Try posting in drywall see if they
have any clever tricks.
I'd proly jus' use sand tex paint
on the new and try for a blend.


----------



## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

See below


----------



## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

looked again, can't do that:blush:


----------



## Cole (Aug 27, 2004)

What's up Jason, what are you trying to accomplish?

I may be able to help.


----------



## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

Sorry, I'm guilty of a hasty post:hang: I don't think you can do more than infill the I beam and tape it because of the minimum clearance already existing from beam to beam.

Add: You could also cut away the bottom of the upper wall at the height of the landing and replace it with a 1/2" board so that the lower section could be flat taped to it and break up the difference in textures between the two walls.


----------



## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

I'll be scheduling an inspection this week- maybe the inspector will say something, maybe he won't. Searching Google for pics of stairwells and trim turns up nothing for me.


----------



## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

ask the building dept planner he or she will tell you if it requires a modification review from building dept.


----------



## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

Perhaps molding could be added ------------------------- Later:whistling

Actually how would you even fit a handrail?


----------



## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Out of the 8 different building depts I deal with I can't imagine a single one that would spend more than 30 seconds on this issue before stamping the permit and saying go for it. At worst it would be 3 minute delay as they take the plans into the back room to talk to the dept head and get his sign off on 1/2 of an inch.

Most building depts are about helping people improve their homes, not being caught up over a 1/2 inch in a stair way.

Just take the thing into your building dept and get a variance.

The fastest path to getting it stamped is the simple "what would you suggest?" question. Old homes have lots of non-conforming issues and building depts know this and have to work with them. The smart ones know that the alternative is somebody doing whatever they want without pulling a permit. Most figure it's better to work with somebody pulling a permit.


----------



## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

As far as making the transition itself. We usually, just scrape, and skim-coat the upper, existing textured walls smooth, to match the new work. It always comes out just fine. 

Only a few times, have we been asked by the HO to just do a transition of somekind (they didn't want to spend the money to skim-coat).

Here's a few pictures of a "basic-budget" transition:


----------



## Dustball (Jul 7, 2006)

Update to my thread, finished the basement remodel today. I ended up using oak chair rail as the transition. Inspector didn't have a problem with it.


----------

