# Best Cordless 18V Drills?



## jarhead0531 (Mar 5, 2008)

My opinion is based off of personal observation of how my tools behave, not a scientific study conducted in a lab. Having never used a Hilti I have nothing to add on that front. 

The tools I have used are the 18V Dewalt XRP, 18V Milwaukee (both nicad), and the newer 18V Li-ion Makita. The Milwaukee felt like the strongest drill by a narrow margin (borrowed a friends to try out) but didn't feel right in the hand. My Dewalts have been tanks, as long as you don't kill the batteries being stupid they are pretty damn fine tools. The Makitas are so comfortable it almost doesn't make sense, but they are weak compared to the Dewalt using older tech.

In 2nd gear on the Dewalt the motor sound never changes when drilling through the tough stuff, when the hole starts getting deep you hear the makita straining to keep going. I did some time trials on the impact drivers driving ledger locks into a 6x6 PT block. The Dewalt was an AVG of 2 seconds faster even thought it has been my daily user for 2 years with original batteries, and this was against a just outta the box Makita 18v Li-ion impact with 3AH batteries.

With that said the most important thing in this class of tool is what feels right in your hands. When your on top of a ladder trying to drive a screw one handed battery voltage/torque/color don't mean squat. 

I haven't had to to replace any of my Dewalt drivers so that great Hilti customer service wouldn't mean much to me. For that big a price difference it should connect to the interweb when it breaks letting the rolling Hilti-mobile know to bring me my loaner....


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## slowforthecones (Aug 24, 2008)

Try a hilti 18volt lithium ion drill (cpc model). You will not go back to Bosch, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita.

I have both the old Hilti 18v and the new 18v. Both work like 36v drills......can't imagine what hilti's 36v power is like.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

I tried the 36V hammer and 36V circular saw, they are awesome! The 24V hammer has good power (I have one) but the battery life isn't the greatest, drills em fast but dies quick!. Its so effective that I rarely haul out the TE-25 unless I have a lot of holes to make in one spot in a hurry. If your thinking about a hammer steer clear of anything but the 35V lithion.

As a side for all thoes cordless circular saw haters out there the more I use em the more I like em. As long as you keep your cut straight and supported and be gentle they work dandy.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

jarhead0531 said:


> My opinion is based off of personal observation of how my tools behave, not a scientific study conducted in a lab. Having never used a Hilti I have nothing to add on that front.
> 
> The tools I have used are the 18V Dewalt XRP, 18V Milwaukee (both nicad), and the newer 18V Li-ion Makita. The Milwaukee felt like the strongest drill by a narrow margin (borrowed a friends to try out) but didn't feel right in the hand. My Dewalts have been tanks, as long as you don't kill the batteries being stupid they are pretty damn fine tools. The Makitas are so comfortable it almost doesn't make sense, but they are weak compared to the Dewalt using older tech.
> 
> ...


 
Did you say you used the Makita Impact and the Dewalt impact in a test. I have done that same test and found them to be almost exactly the same. Both were a few charges old and the Makita had the slight edge because it was impacting quicker than the dewalt. They both have the exact same TQ rating so you shouldn't have been able to tell the difference. Unless you was using the 1.5AH batt on the Makita which really cuts down on available amps. If you was using the 3.0ah then i would return the Makita for a new one as it should be the same of not better. 

The other thing with repair centers is they are the ones giving the service and not the company who makes them. I have had Makita dealers who have been awful and no my current dealer is great. Tool has a problem and he fixes it there and then in no more than 10-20mins and just changes the faulty part straight out instead of trying to repair the part thats broken.


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## jarhead0531 (Mar 5, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> Did you say you used the Makita Impact and the Dewalt impact in a test. I have done that same test and found them to be almost exactly the same. Both were a few charges old and the Makita had the slight edge because it was impacting quicker than the dewalt. They both have the exact same TQ rating so you shouldn't have been able to tell the difference. Unless you was using the 1.5AH batt on the Makita which really cuts down on available amps. If you was using the 3.0ah then i would return the Makita for a new one as it should be the same of not better.
> 
> The other thing with repair centers is they are the ones giving the service and not the company who makes them. I have had Makita dealers who have been awful and no my current dealer is great. Tool has a problem and he fixes it there and then in no more than 10-20mins and just changes the faulty part straight out instead of trying to repair the part thats broken.


Yep I test the Makita against the Dewalt impact using 3 5/8" ledger locks and there was a very real speed difference. I was using the 3.0ah on the Makita and what I believe is a 2.2ah on the Dewalt, both freshly charged overnight. I don't think the Makita is bad since it handles everything the dewalt does, but with those bolts the speed difference was noticeable. I also tried driving the leger locks with a plug in 1/2 impact driver, now that was FAST, between 2 and 3 seconds to sink them flush.

What size fastners where you using in your test??

I was just kidding around about the tool dealers/ service centers. Good points though, customes service will differ at different areas and it pays to find a good service center.

Barry


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## Joining_heads (Mar 4, 2008)

To bad the panny was 14.4. I have that drill and can attest that it doesn't have the power of the competition. However, its balance, ergonomics, and battery life are what make it my fave. 
Also, I think the 14.4 panny impact is the best on the market.


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## KyleVH (Jun 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> To bad the panny was 14.4. I have that drill and can attest that it doesn't have the power of the competition. However, its balance, ergonomics, and battery life are what make it my fave.
> Also, I think the 14.4 panny impact is the best on the market.




http://www.hilti.com/holcom/modules/editorial/edit_singlepage.jsp?contentOID=233257

I've always heard Panasonic made some of the best cordless drills. I guess this makes sense Panasonic develops some of the electronics...batteries and Hilti make sweet tools.


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## Aiken Colon (Jul 14, 2008)

From what I know Panasonic has stopped, or is planning on, stopping production of power tools.

JJ


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## KyleVH (Jun 1, 2009)

Since this article is from January...Maybe some tools, but they are still making cordless just under a joint venture company


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

jarhead0531 said:


> Yep I test the Makita against the Dewalt impact using 3 5/8" ledger locks and there was a very real speed difference. I was using the 3.0ah on the Makita and what I believe is a 2.2ah on the Dewalt, both freshly charged overnight. I don't think the Makita is bad since it handles everything the dewalt does, but with those bolts the speed difference was noticeable. I also tried driving the leger locks with a plug in 1/2 impact driver, now that was FAST, between 2 and 3 seconds to sink them flush.
> 
> What size fastners where you using in your test??
> 
> ...


 
I dont really use the cordless impact drivers for anything but taking out and putting in screws. So they dont really get a proper work out. I use my Drill/driver to put larger stuff in just because of the extra TQ you get from the Gear ratios. The other nice thing about the Makita's is they are over a pound lighter than the dewalt. The LED light is great feature also.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Amp Hour only has to do with run time, not strength. 

I specificaly bought an extra 1.3ah for one of my drills, it cuts down on a lot of weight. Power is the same, battry just runs out of juice befor the 2.4ah.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Amp Hour only has to do with run time, not strength.
> 
> I specificaly bought an extra 1.3ah for one of my drills, it cuts down on a lot of weight. Power is the same, battry just runs out of juice befor the 2.4ah.


Not always. Better cells can put out more amps and normally these cells are a high AH rateing because they are better cells. I have a few packs of NI-MH cells here which i use for RC cars and boats and the better quality cells can keep a higher norminal voltage for longer and can supply more cranking amps. As an example a 3000MAH set of cells might be ok at a discharge rate of 30amps but a 5000MAH set of cells might be good for a 50amp discharge rate. So if the motor pulls 50amps then the battery wont have aproblem doing it without over heating the cells. This is the reason why some batts get so hot is because they cant supply the Motor with enough amps so they get hot. My makitas so far have never got anywhere near as hot as my Dewalts did because of the Extra AMPS avalible But normally the higher the MAH rateing of the cells the better quatlity the cells are. Also this is the reason some of the Makita tools wont let you use the smaller battery packs because they will burn them out trying to pull so many amps.


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## jarhead0531 (Mar 5, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> I dont really use the cordless impact drivers for anything but taking out and putting in screws. So they dont really get a proper work out. I use my Drill/driver to put larger stuff in just because of the extra TQ you get from the Gear ratios. The other nice thing about the Makita's is they are over a pound lighter than the dewalt. The LED light is great feature also.



I do exactly the opposite of you. My drill/drivers are pretty much relegated to drilling these days. If its got a thread on it, the impact comes out. Last I checked the impacts have about twice the torque of regular drill/drivers with almost no torque transfer to your wrist. The torque transfer is THE reason I use an impact on the big stuff. Not to mention the impact action reduces the cam out problem.

Barry


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

I just bought milwaukee 18v ion compact drill and impact driver for $200. As an everyday all day drill it wouldnt hold up. But the weight of it is amazing, i run a few screws with it then go back to the heavy clunky dewalt and it feels like a cement block in my hand. I mostly bought it for cabinet installs, works great with its small size for running screws into the face frames of cabinets. Also easily fits in between 16" centers with a bit or screw on the end with ease.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

jarhead0531 said:


> I do exactly the opposite of you. My drill/drivers are pretty much relegated to drilling these days. If its got a thread on it, the impact comes out. Last I checked the impacts have about twice the torque of regular drill/drivers with almost no torque transfer to your wrist. The torque transfer is THE reason I use an impact on the big stuff. Not to mention the impact action reduces the cam out problem.
> 
> Barry


My impact driver cant come anywhere near the power of my drill/driver when in 1st gear. I have tried driving some lag screws into some rawplugs with my impact gun and they got them in but couldnt tighten them. Pulled out the drill/driver and it nearly took the head of and almost pulled it through the timber. These impact drill and drill are also not measured in the same way. I cant remember at what point in the output they measure them but when the power goes through a reduction gear the TQ in a normal drill is a lot more than an impact driver. Thats why i never used the impact drivers for larger nuts/bolts as it will damage the impact driver. Now if we are talking 1/2" cordless impacts then thats a whole diffferent matter. They are monsters for TQ.


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## jarhead0531 (Mar 5, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> My impact driver cant come anywhere near the power of my drill/driver when in 1st gear. I have tried driving some lag screws into some rawplugs with my impact gun and they got them in but couldnt tighten them. Pulled out the drill/driver and it nearly took the head of and almost pulled it through the timber. These impact drill and drill are also not measured in the same way. I cant remember at what point in the output they measure them but when the power goes through a reduction gear the TQ in a normal drill is a lot more than an impact driver. Thats why i never used the impact drivers for larger nuts/bolts as it will damage the impact driver. Now if we are talking 1/2" cordless impacts then thats a whole diffferent matter. They are monsters for TQ.


Ummm, whats a rawplug??

I guess it depends on the size of the lag screw. With predrilling I haven't had the same issues as you. I normally don't go above the 1/4" ledger locks in anything I do. I alternate using the impact and the drill when installing them when the tools start getting hot.

I know the drills in first gear have lots of torque, just much harder to control when your standing on a ladder and have to lean into it to keep the bit in contact with the fastner being used. I really don't like being off balance on a ladder.

I'd love to pickup 1/2" cordless but them puppies are expensive and a one trick pony. Instead I picked up a cheap corded one from Harbor Freight and I'll use it til it explodes. At that time I'll judge how much I used it and decide whether to upgrade to Makita/Dewalt corded one or just purchase another HF for $30.

It came down to whether having to hop down to swap batteries or draggng a cord was a bigger headache when running ledger locks on 50' of deck. Dragging the cord won out due to the raw speed/torque of corded impact. And it about the only time I use a 14 guage cord because these monsters really don't draw that many amps. 

My general rule these days is anything over 1/4", or more than 10- 1/4" the corded gun comes out. Saves the expensive cordless tools and batteries too.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

jarhead0531 said:


> Ummm, whats a rawplug??
> 
> I guess it depends on the size of the lag screw. With predrilling I haven't had the same issues as you. I normally don't go above the 1/4" ledger locks in anything I do. I alternate using the impact and the drill when installing them when the tools start getting hot.
> 
> ...


Sorry i ment Rawlplug. Forgot the l. It's just a genreal term people in UK use for anchoring systems. 

Yeah 1/2" Impact wrenchs sure have some silly TQ and def not needed for most of the jobs i do. They do some nice 18v versions though that will run of your current batterys.


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## Red Adobe (Jul 26, 2008)

It realy must depend on what your using a cordless for and where. Most of my cordless work is done in high heat, full sun, on metal roofs so they all get HOT.... I have worn out about every brand mentioned

My problem is usualy batterys wearing out, I built a cooler box in the back seat of truck to store and charge them in ( I put a froxen gallon jug of water in every morning ) This has realy helped prolong the life

I decided after the last dewalt went tits up to try craftsmen 19.2 they had a deal awhile back 4 batteries,cordless, and impact for $150..... I used automotive plastic prep and painted everything white and its worked as good as anything else for me. I painted white so I wasnt always grabbing a HOT drill off my side, I also know exactly where my drill is at all time LoL


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Red Adobe said:


> It realy must depend on what your using a cordless for and where. Most of my cordless work is done in high heat, full sun, on metal roofs so they all get HOT.... I have worn out about every brand mentioned
> 
> My problem is usualy batterys wearing out, I built a cooler box in the back seat of truck to store and charge them in ( I put a froxen gallon jug of water in every morning ) This has realy helped prolong the life
> 
> I decided after the last dewalt went tits up to try craftsmen 19.2 they had a deal awhile back 4 batteries,cordless, and impact for $150..... I used automotive plastic prep and painted everything white and its worked as good as anything else for me. I painted white so I wasnt always grabbing a HOT drill off my side, I also know exactly where my drill is at all time LoL


Lol if we painted stuff white we'd lose it in the snow. :laughing:


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## XanadooLTD (Oct 6, 2007)

Hilti rated like bosch and dewalt 36v. HILTIS!!!!!!


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

hmmm sony, sounds familiar.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Warner I'm not trying to piss on your parade but there are some valid points here.

Even my old dewalt 18v would twist out of my hand, I realize I'm no hulk hogan but I abused that sucker for 5 years using a 1X18" ships auger on a daily basis.

Hilti also has the overload protection chip in their batteries, and you can charge them from any load without effect because it monitors the charge level...just like Festool.

Makita has a smart charger but there is no protection circuitry in the battery itself. Dewalt has a simple version that shuts the battery down then uses the charger as a re-set.

When you supply tools to a few other guys I'd rather pass them a ryobi too, handing off a festool just isn't right! The biggest mistake I made was buying Hilti twist drill bit sets, its cost me a small fortune replacing thoes broken bits from guys who can't hold a drill straight.

3 year warrenty, whoopie not much above Ridgid/Milwaukee/Makita etc. Espicially if you look at replacement cost.

Brushless motors and electronics make for a more efficient drill with fewer wearing parts but it also adds more electronic complexity to fail. Although I agree that brushless is the way of the future for drills.

Slow chargers can also be really aggrivating, espicially if one night you have a severe case of "gethomeitis" and leave yourself with a fraction of a charge in one battery, next day you drive a few screws and then are forced to wait for the battery to charge.

I think Festool tools are fantastic but their cordless drill (along with most of their tools) are aimed at workshop use not feild use. They have some outstanding features (espicially the badass chuck system) yet for someone in my line of work they would not be a panacea.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Inner10 said:


> I think Festool tools are fantastic but their cordless drill (along with most of their tools) are aimed at workshop use not feild use. They have some outstanding features (espicially the badass chuck system) yet for someone in my line of work they would not be a panacea.


That is a common misconception. Their stuff is meant to be taken into the field and used on site. It comes from places where people dont have shops or any more space than 10'x10'.

It is expensive because it is built to hold up to job site abuse and still be highly accurate.

Don't say it can't when you haven't.
It will out last almost anything out there.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Just tell me its a POS so that I don't end up buying one and wind up single...I'm easy to sell too and I'm good at ignoring yelling.

Closest festool dealer is Brockville, about a 45 min drive, all highway, unless I move or one comes to Ottawa I can't see taking the plunge.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> Warner I'm not trying to piss on your parade but there are some valid points here.
> 
> Even my old dewalt 18v would twist out of my hand, I realize I'm no hulk hogan but I abused that sucker for 5 years using a 1X18" ships auger on a daily basis.
> 
> ...


The problem with overloaded protection is most of these drills can pull way more amps(more than double) than the batterys can supply and thats the reason they heat up. the overload protection is great if you dont over load the drill and stress it but i would be setting that thing of every other second. Some of Makitas LXT tools have a built in system in the high amp demand tools like the angle grinder that will shut down the angle grinder if you overload it. I set that dam thing off almost every time i use it and it pisses me of to no end.


Also i dont think the Festools are designed to be used the way some of use some of these tools. 15v drills aint really desined to bore 1"+ augers and 5" hole cutters. They would run of of TQ before you would finish each hole. Even my makita with almost double the TQ of the Festool struggles with some of the stuff i drill. But there's no doubt they are a great tool if they are within the specs you require.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

We bored 1" auger holes in a piece of 8/4 poplar with the 15+3.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> We bored 1" auger holes in a piece of 8/4 poplar with the 15+3.


 
I should hope so for the cost of them. I have a crappy porter cable drill with same TQ and it would be able to do that. Porter cable one never used to be able to go through a 12" thick oak beam in a 500 year old cottage though. Even my Makita had trouble doing that. Only problem was battery used to get stupidly hot but it saved my pulling out the angle drill with reduction head on it.


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## Bone Saw (Feb 13, 2006)

I've always been a milwaukee man, no complaints with several 18v hammer drills and RAD, BUT, I can tell you that milwaukee's L ion batts absolutely suck $h!t, 2 years ago I picked up another 18 v lion hammer drill, and since then I've taken the batts (2) back to a milwaukee service center at least 3 or four times, upon diagnostic, they havent even been cycled but 50 or 60 times, finally just asked for nicads last time


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Bone Saw said:


> I've always been a milwaukee man, no complaints with several 18v hammer drills and RAD, BUT, I can tell you that milwaukee's L ion batts absolutely suck $h!t, 2 years ago I picked up another 18 v lion hammer drill, and since then I've taken the batts (2) back to a milwaukee service center at least 3 or four times, upon diagnostic, they havent even been cycled but 50 or 60 times, finally just asked for nicads last time


 
It's to do with the quality of cells in the packs. Dewalts use the most expensive cells at about $2.50 a piece and they have about 15 of these in a cell. But they are a low MAH rating for the cost of the cell. Makita use cells that are about $2.30 a cell but they have more capacity because they are normal LI-ION. Milwaukee use cells that are about $1.20 a cell and they wont hold up anywhere near the length of time compared to the more expensive cells.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

You guys do realize that some of the things you want a cordless drill to do, should be done with a drill that has a cord.

That might save your guy's cordless tools.

Sometimes you cant improve on electricity.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You guys do realize that some of the things you want a cordless drill to do, should be done with a drill that has a cord.
> 
> That might save your guy's cordless tools.
> 
> Sometimes you cant improve on electricity.


Your 100% correct lol. I have 2 sds drills that are exactly the same but one is cordless and one is mains and even when i need to drill a 2" hole in Engineering brick i still try to use the cordless knowing full well it will stop half way through lol. I have corded versions of most of my tools but still the Cordless get used a lot more than they should.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

> Their stuff is meant to be taken into the field and used on site.


Warner I guess what I meant to say was its aimed at woodworking, not something that I do much of, they don't appear to have an extensive hammerdrill and impact driver line.



> We bored 1" auger holes in a piece of 8/4 poplar with the 15+3.


You could piss a hole through poplar, how about 4 2x6s with a thousand nails?



> You guys do realize that some of the things you want a cordless drill to do, should be done with a drill that has a cord.


Absolutly agree, but not having to haul out the extension cord, fight for the one of the few plugs they have on that floor is really swell. After getting a cordless SDS I only haul out the big bugger for serious holes. I realize your rather anti-cordless but I've really been running the watts through my cordless circular saw lately...its just handy.



> I set that dam thing off almost every time i use it and it pisses me of to no end.


I know the feeling, nothing like drilling a big awkard hole on a wobbly 24 foot ladder and see that overload light flash and think to yourself "bugger! just drill the hole and catch on fire damnit!"

I've never used a cordless angle grinder, let alone seen one on a jobsite.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> I know the feeling, nothing like drilling a big awkard hole on a wobbly 24 foot ladder and see that overload light flash and think to yourself "bugger! just drill the hole and catch on fire damnit!"
> 
> I've never used a cordless angle grinder, let alone seen one on a jobsite.


Tell me about it. It's dangerous the way you suddenly lose all power as your using your weight behind the drill to keep it steady then POW no power and your hanging sideways of the drill. The cordless angle grinders do work very well. But again that over load cut off is a hassle at times. 

Tell you what though. My mate could have done with some overload or clutch protection on his core drill as he was drilling a 4 inch hole in a wall and the core drill locked up in the wall and he spun the whole way around while holding the drill. Proper messed him up for the rest of the week lol. Funny watching it happen though. :w00t:


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## Anderson (Sep 7, 2009)

I just replaced my Dewalt with the Hitachi 18V lith ion, havent really put it through its paces yet but I will report on how it does


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## jiffy (Oct 21, 2007)

Anderson said:


> I just replaced my Dewalt with the Hitachi 18V lith ion, havent really put it through its paces yet but I will report on how it does


Not the best replacement. From what I have read here you will be disappointed in the long run. There is a reason Hitachi battery tools are so affordable. Don't quote me on that.


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## Kastoria (May 5, 2008)

I just picked up the Bosch 36v hammer drill with fat pack batteries the other day. Really didnt need a drill but got it for a steal at www.onetooladay.com sometimes you just gotta buy it. In any case was wondering if anyone has used this drill before as far as if it has good power, torque, battery life etc. I know its a 36v but that doesnt always mean more power...just a bigger battery. Besides it not like Im going to return it but would like to know what I have in my truck when I do decide to use it. Thanks.


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## timberframe (Sep 10, 2009)

I've always used the dewalt 18v but it sounds like I should try the Hilti.


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

Anderson said:


> I just replaced my Dewalt with the Hitachi 18V lith ion, havent really put it through its paces yet but I will report on how it does


I talked to my local tool repair guy today. I asked him what the best was and he says they all suck since box stores. Makita Dewalt Milwaukee all low quality. The best he said was Hitachi. Hilti except the service out here is bad from what he said.


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## jiffy (Oct 21, 2007)

duburban said:


> I talked to my local tool repair guy today. I asked him what the best was and he says they all suck since box stores. Makita Dewalt Milwaukee all low quality. The best he said was Hitachi. Hilti except the service out here is bad from what he said.


I would find a new tool repair guy. Hitachi is far from the best. Milwaukee and Makita have the best cordless out to date, for the money.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

duburban said:


> I talked to my local tool repair guy today. I asked him what the best was and he says they all suck since box stores. Makita Dewalt Milwaukee all low quality. The best he said was Hitachi. Hilti except the service out here is bad from what he said.


 
Your tool guys need to go back to tool school lol. Hitachi the best!:whistling

The problem with these places is most are biased towards what they sell or service even if they know better. They don't have hands on experience with tools and working on site with other trades teaches you a lot about tools. I cant remember how many lunch breaks i used to spend talking to other trades about their tools.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

> The problem with these places is most are biased towards what they sell or service even if they know better.


Or what they make the most money on...

Who would you ask for advice the guys using it in the feild everyday or the guy selling it?


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## Phillip Marsh (Oct 4, 2009)

With cordless tools using NiCads the battery and charger technology went back decades. With lithium-ion it is relatively new technology and the manufacturers are still working out the kinks - as with Sony that had to recall over a million lithium-ion battery packs that were installed in laptops. When NiCads overheat the battery life is shortened but with lithium-ion they can burst into flames so the manufacturers are much more conservative with the shut-off electronics, sometimes too much so as with the Hitachi and Milwaukee M18 lithium-ion battery packs. Recharge times vary from 15 minutes to 45 minutes and it may be that the Makita and DeWalt chargers are better or users may find that the batteries fail after few recharged - time will tell.

With corded tools it mattered a lot less whether a particular blade or drill or hole saw was the most efficient at cutting but with cordless tools it matters a good deal. I have done 2" holes in subflooring with a brand new Lenox bi-metal hole saw and had it take 40 seconds and the battery which started out with a full charge took more than 30 minutes to recharge. I have made holes in the same Sturd-I flooring with a 2" Blue Boar TCT hole cutter and had the hole cut in 4 seconds and there was no need to recharge the battery. My success was much more dependent on selecting the best hole cutter than on selecting the best drill. 

With all these tests on youtube.com no one knows if the battery started out with a full charge or if the RPM range selected was the best one for the job. What I really have come to appreciate is the 3-speed gear box on the new DeWalt XRP lithium-ion DCD970 drill. It has a middle and a high range setting that is equivalent to the normal 2-speed ranges on other drills. But the lowest setting is like having a granny gear on a truck and it lets the drill work at a more efficient speed both in terms of pushing the hole cutter or screw but also in terms of the rate of the charge drain from the batteries and the battery pack runs much cooler. This is not something that is important with a drill that is plugged into an outlet but I have found it makes a big difference in how well a cordless drill performs, especially with very large holes or holes in very hard materials. 

When I buy a drill and it turns out to be a mistake I give it away (like the Hitachi I bought earlier this year) to someone who is not going to be using it to earn a living. When I find a drill like the XRP lithium from DeWalt I am temped to paint it pink to keep it from walking off the job site when someone else sees how well it performs. The DeWalt is the clunkiest feeling drill in the hand of any drill I use but it is in most other ways the best cordless drill I have used.


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## hammer11379 (Oct 27, 2007)

I love the Makita 18v impact driver for cabinet installations


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## Kastoria (May 5, 2008)

Hitachi only for me. Only drill I used that has never given up on me (havent tried hilti though - dewalt, milwaukee crapped out in a years time). I have 5 cordless/hammerdrills and 2 impacts right now - 18V. Get used and abused everyday, dropped all the time and do plenty of railing installations where I am drilling through steel tubing/solid steel fixing plates and concrete floors for anchor bolts. Impacts are great too for all the lag screws I put in. Only complaint is color and the cordless drill/hammer drills are a bit chunky up top. Ive had these drill going on just over 3 years now and not a complaint, havent even replaced a battery. (Nicads suck, but still work like suppose to, just not as long a run time as the lithium ions). Just picked up a 36V Bosch but havent really put it through any tough work yet.


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## TempestV (Feb 3, 2007)

That's interesting- a guy I work with from time to time had a Hitachi, and the batteries wouldn't 5 minutes of hard use. He had about 4 batteries, and they were all like that, even brand new. Nothing was really wrong with the drill, but the batteries sucked. He used to cuss that thing every time he went to use it.


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## Kastoria (May 5, 2008)

The nicads suck...sometimes I can get a good charge out of them when its wood or screw related but not much when drilling steel or concrete. The lithium ions work great. I just installed railings on a 3 story apartment complex all three floor staircases front and rear - one lithium battery for the install and one battery to drill through the 1/4 inch fixing plates and concrete. Thats pretty good. 8 hour job, 2 batteries. Either I got lucky with my bats or your friend got screwed. I generally keep my batteries indoors at room temp to store them and plug all of them in for charging every three months without fail regardless if they werent even used since the last charge. Thats what hitachi told me to do to make them last longer, so thats what I do. 

It doesnt matter what drill make or model or type of battery technology there is there is always a bad batch and a good batch as far as Im concerned. I have a set of Ryobi 18V nicads that are going on 7 years old and the original nicad batteries hold a great charge, even better than the hitachi nicads. But those also go on the charger every three months. A little extra up keep goes a long way, as long as you dont mind chargers all over the house for a day or 2.


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