# Accidental code violation



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Just what 5 star said, use an offset flange and even if you have to notch the joist a little you can make it work, then patch the tile :thumbsup:

You can also ask the building department for a code adjustment request, they have a form were you can ask for minor code adjustment, especially in a cases like that. 

Tell them you have a room with a sloped ceiling which required at least 50% of the area to be 7' height and no portion of the room to be less then 5' (I hope you meet that egress requirement)... If you do, ask for a code adjustment to R305.1, Exception rule 4. which states Bathroom should have a minimum ceiling height of 6'8 over the fixture and that based on your situation, you request a code adjustment to have a head clearance of 6'5" a 3" variation...

With that said, why is he breaking your OO now, why he didn't say anything when you passed rough inspection, the floor and ceiling was there. 

Good luck


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## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

tgeb said:


> Rough-ins....
> 
> A standard toilet rough-in is 12" from the wall to the center of the toilet flange. This will set the tank +/- 1/2" or so from the wall.
> 
> ...


Using this toilet in this situation will help, but what the actual dimensions are from front edge of bowl to outlet will determine if any particular 10" rough toilet would make it better.

Change to an off set flange and cut in a recessed box between the stair stringers so tall people can fit. You can line it with foam so if they're there for a long one they can rest their head.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Here is another idea without f*^king with tile and plumbing. Take sheetrock off under the stair, exposing a few steps and wrap them with sheetrock individually, if you get lucky you will end up with needed head room at the edge of the fixture. Here is an example


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

DaVinciRemodel said:


> If the size of the room doesn’t help, do what TxElectrician said or cut a hole in the ceiling drywall and hope there’s a riser directly above.





greg24k said:


> Here is another idea without f*^king with tile and plumbing. Take sheetrock off under the stair, exposing a few steps and wrap them with sheetrock individually, if you get lucky you will end up with needed head room at the edge of the fixture. Here is an example


This was my first thought as well.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

tgeb said:


> Rough-ins....
> 
> A standard toilet rough-in is 12" from the wall to the center of the toilet flange. This will set the tank +/- 1/2" or so from the wall.
> 
> ...


I thought you need to get 3" correct me if I'm wrong. Also installing that 10 inch rough like tg recommended then if you need more room you could combine it with an offset flange. That's if I'm reading all the posts correctly.


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

Get some 2x2's and a sheet of drywall. Build a false wall in front of your toilet without nailing it to the floor. Mud, paint, and tape the corners. When the inspector shows up, just simply say "Toilet? What toilet? Ohh.. you must mean in the OTHER bathroom." Then tear it out after the fact.


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## TAHomeRepairs (Jun 18, 2012)

tedanderson said:


> Get some 2x2's and a sheet of drywall. Build a false wall in front of your toilet without nailing it to the floor. Mud, paint, and tape the corners. When the inspector shows up, just simply say "Toilet? What toilet? Ohh.. you must mean in the OTHER bathroom." Then tear it out after the fact.




You'll have to change your title from ultimate wire hider to master turd chute Concealer


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## GTX63 (Sep 9, 2011)

Having been an inspector in a previous life I am inclined to go with capping and sheeting over the toilet until such time as you decide to use it. Having fewer fixtures than your permit was for won't affect anything. And yes, I'd be po'd if the guy waited until a final to bring this up.


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## sonalamp (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I like greg24's idea but there is a center stringer so it wont help me much. For now I got a temporary CO and will appeal to the chief building official when he returns from leave. I'll let you all know how it turns out. If I have to do something I think I may go the route of a 10" rough in toilet. I can't thank yall enough.


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

sonalamp said:


> Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I like greg24's idea but there is a center stringer so it wont help me much. For now I got a temporary CO and will appeal to the chief building official when he returns from leave. I'll let you all know how it turns out. If I have to do something I think I may go the route of a 10" rough in toilet. I can't thank yall enough.


I think you missed something here. A 10" rough in will give you less headroom. 12" rough in is standard, 14" rough in will move the toilet and the headroom further out from the wall, which is what you need for a CO.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

sonalamp said:


> Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I like greg24's idea but there is a center stringer so it wont help me much. For now I got a temporary CO and will appeal to the chief building official when he returns from leave. I'll let you all know how it turns out. If I have to do something I think I may go the route of a 10" rough in toilet. I can't thank yall enough.


If that the case with the stringer, and if you cannot get code variation adjustment form (If you need the form PM me and I will send it to you via email) then do what skyhook said, offset your toilet and in the back of the toilet build a short wall stopping above the toilet and you can make it a shelf, we always do this when the toilet must be offset further from the wall.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

PS Here is what the form looks like


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

skyhook said:


> I think you missed something here. A 10" rough in will give you less headroom. 12" rough in is standard, 14" rough in will move the toilet and the headroom further out from the wall, which is what you need for a CO.


Actually, you are mistaken.

Refer to the diagram in this link, I realize it seems counter-intuitive but a 10" toilet placed on a 12" rough in pipe moves the toilet away from the wall.

http://www.toiletsthatwork.com/toilet-specs/CST804S.pdf


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## hammer7896 (Feb 28, 2010)

Tgeb that is true but the front of the toilet is still the distance in front of the flange


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

I doubt he needs a $400 Toto toilet. If he cant get code adjustment, just move the flange forward and reset the same toilet... all this can be done in a few hours.


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## hammer7896 (Feb 28, 2010)

I have never seen a toilet like the one you posted, with that toilet you are correct. Most of the toilets I see the bowl is the same but the tank is different


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

greg24k said:


> I doubt he needs a $400 Toto toilet. If he cant get code adjustment, just move the flange forward and reset the same toilet... all this can be done in a few hours.


It does not necessarily have to be a Toto, that's just the best diagram I found at the time.


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## ranteso (Nov 11, 2010)

Cut three inches off your tape and splice it together. Place hundred on floor by door and when he walks in have ruler extended from floor to overhead point showing correct min code height, and as his eyes glance at the ruler mention he dropped something out of his pocket.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

greg24k said:


> I doubt he needs a $400 Toto toilet. If he cant get code adjustment, just move the flange forward and reset the same toilet... all this can be done in a few hours.


Are offset flanges legal in that community?


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

ranteso said:


> Cut three inches off your tape and splice it together. Place hundred on floor by door and when he walks in have ruler extended from floor to overhead point showing correct min code height, and as his eyes glance at the ruler mention he dropped something out of his pocket.



If your have to "mention" he dropped somethin, it will take more than a hunnerd...just saying...
:whistling


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

tgeb said:


> Actually, you are mistaken.
> 
> Refer to the diagram in this link, I realize it seems counter-intuitive but a 10" toilet placed on a 12" rough in pipe moves the toilet away from the wall.
> 
> http://www.toiletsthatwork.com/toilet-specs/CST804S.pdf


I see what what you mean about that toilet. I figured he was moving the closet flange.


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