# Subway tile backsplash layout. Open on both ends



## Ampridehomes (Feb 21, 2018)

Have a subway tile job. Open on both ends. Been pondering layouts. Do I start on one end or in the middle. 

Anyone have any tricks for doing the mat to make sure I dont end up with slivers on one end?


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Ampridehomes said:


> Have a subway tile job. Open on both ends. Been pondering layouts. Do I start on one end or in the middle.
> 
> Anyone have any tricks for doing the mat to make sure I dont end up with slivers on one end?


Test you layouts. It's easy to end up with slivers with subway. Are you using pencil or other kind of edge? Might help so you can trim tiles, if necessary.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I started on the outside edges for full tile and don't worry about the inside corners........most of the time.

Otherwise give yourself some finish options,bullnose if beveled tile, schulter or pencil otherwise. That's what I do.


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## Peter_C (Nov 26, 2014)

If it were me, I would probably start in the middle and possibly stop it short to get a full and/or half tile, with an edge banding like Schluter's. Tape measure, a note pad, and some thinking should reveal the best layout. We don't know the back size, the tile pattern, nor the tile size.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I lay them out on the countertop with spacers. You have to start in the middle but then can shift depending on layout.


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## Peter_C (Nov 26, 2014)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I lay them out on the countertop with spacers. You have to start in the middle but then can shift depending on layout.


LOL that is my way a lot of times. I grab the tiles put them on the floor or where ever and start adding spacers and tiles in, shifting until I find a setup I like. :thumbsup:


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

no simple answer, 
I do it both ways depending on the space, sometimes I even split the difference on the ends. 
All depends on the space!
no one can really answer this question because no one knows the tile or the backsplash size, is there a larger area behind the sink? will that look odd if tiles are not centered?
to0 many variables!


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

cedarboarder said:


> no simple answer,
> I do it both ways depending on the space, sometimes I even split the difference on the ends.
> All depends on the space!
> no one can really answer this question because no one knows the tile or the backsplash size, is there a larger area behind the sink? will that look odd if tiles are not centered?
> to0 many variables!


If it's open on both ends, there isn't much choice. It has to start centered. Then if there is a sliver you have to sacrifice one side or the other. The only other option is to picture frame it with bullnose or some other pencil liner.


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## Ampridehomes (Feb 21, 2018)

Thanks folks. I will center on stove and layout. Hopefully I get lucky or I will change edge options depending on how much the cut tiles are. Thanks!!


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## artisanstone (Nov 27, 2007)

From a center line, there are two layout options. One is whole/half and the other is 1/4-3/4. This is with running bond pattern. You can adjust between those two for best results.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

artisanstone said:


> From a center line, there are two layout options. One is whole/half and the other is 1/4-3/4. This is with running bond pattern. You can adjust between those two for best results.


1/3 offset


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## jeffmattero76 (Mar 7, 2018)

Ampridehomes said:


> Have a subway tile job. Open on both ends. Been pondering layouts. Do I start on one end or in the middle.
> 
> Anyone have any tricks for doing the mat to make sure I dont end up with slivers on one end?


I use a "story pole". Actually, two story poles (each one 8s a couple feet shorter than the area I am tiling) . Mine are lengths of vinyl shaped like an "L" in cross section. I layout the tiles and spacers on the floor, and mark each grout joint on the story poles. I then place the story poles against the wall I am tiling and spread them apart so they cover the length of the tiled area, keeping the grout markings on the two story poles lined up with each other. I then move the poles left to right as needed to avoid any slivers at corners or next to receptacles, switches, and cabinet sides. I am not a pro, but this helps me immensely when doing a backsplash at one of my rental properties. 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk


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## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

What I have been doing recently is laying out from center to see what will be at both ends, like normal. Should obviously end up with a same or similar sized piece at each end, and the next row would have a smaller or larger piece but again, the same at both ends.

If I think the smaller of the pieces are too small (alternate rows are always going to end up with the end pieces being less than half a tile), then I shift. I can never remember if I initially had a formula or I just shift around until I find a compromise I'm satisfied with.

What happens is, I end up a larger piece at one end of the row and a smaller piece at the other end. The next row up would have similar sized pieces, but switching ends.

I end up not using the center of the tile OR the grout line at the center of the wall. And for instance the left end of row A is the same size as the right end of row B, NOT the right end of row A.

How I didn't over explain or make it too convoluted.

Or act like I invented something new.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Plan layout in the framing stage. Or earlier.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Most people I run into want tight joints, so the lugs of the tile dictate.
Easiest thing is to spread them across the countertop. A picture tells a thousand words.


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