# Ply Gem Steel Siding (or others!)



## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

Talking with a long time customer yesterday I was saying that Ply Gem has some new steel siding out there that at least seemed interesting to me...but said I'd want to try some out or at least learn more before I recommended it. I guess there's a few thoughts I'd have to anyone who's used it (or if there's a better option I'm just not aware of!)

1 - The subject came up because they don't care for vinyl siding because it's always getting holes in it from lawn mower stones and 'accidents'...I'm not sure if steel is all that resistant to dents? Will I be called in a year because the whole place is riddled with dents (I'm assuming it's better than aluminum was?)

2 - Anyone have much experience installing it? Does it take 10% longer to install than vinyl? 50% longer? 

3 - I'll check with my supplier on pricing, but is there anything I should be specifically asking them about? I'm used to vinyl, so I'm not needing the basics of "you'll need J channel and starter" but instead just making sure I'm not missing the "you need gold plated nails or you'll find out that you caused the side of the house to self implode and rust to crap"...I just want to make sure there's not anything too insane!

4 - Does anyone even like the stuff or am I chasing down something crappy?

He doesn't like the 'cheap' feel of vinyl siding, isn't impressed with the Hardy products (he's not huge on keeping the place painted/sealed nicely and has had stuff crack/face pop before), he wants the durability of brick but knows he'll have to dig deeeeep into the pockets for that...and here came up maybe a discussion of steel siding that doesn't look like a pole barn?


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Although I have not heard of Ply Gem steel siding. Steel siding is all I install, Alside, If installed right IMO it is a very good long lasting product. Personally I don't figure it take any more time then vinyl. I mostly use the 8" profile with a dense drop in backer giving it a very firm surface. It stands up pretty good to any denting or damage. I have seen it take out windows before denting the siding with hail. 

The Ply Gem seems to carry a fairly good , warranty. Pretty much standard. 

Channeling is a little different then vinyl , and if you decide to use it I can share with you how I do some of the stuff. 

I think you will be please with the end product. IMO I would and do use it before most other types of siding.


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## Lettusbee (May 8, 2010)

What do you use for cutting the steel siding?


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Lettusbee said:


> What do you use for cutting the steel siding?


I use either duckbill snips , aviation snips or a profile shear. My supplier, Aside , say they now have a saw blade to cut it and that warranty will still be good. I might give one a try, just not sure if I am all for it or not. 

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## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Randy Bush said:


> I use either duckbill snips , aviation snips or a profile shear. My supplier, Aside , say they now have a saw blade to cut it and that warranty will still be good. I might give one a try, just not sure if I am all for it or not.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V520 using Tapatalk




Must have the strongest hand shake in the west. I remember just cutting vinyl would kill my hands. 


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Randy Bush said:


> My supplier, Aside , say they now have a saw blade to cut it and that warranty will still be good. I might give one a try, just not sure if I am all for it or not.


I'm surprised to hear that. You'd think a ragged saw cut would be prime rust territory.

I've used a carborundum blade and then sealed the cuts with touch-up paint. I encourage you to give the saw blade a try--it'll go way faster than snips.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

NYgutterguy said:


> Must have the strongest hand shake in the west. I remember just cutting vinyl would kill my hands.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You Easterners must be kind of soft. :laughing: While I will say I have some pretty good calluses on my hands it is still in having a good sharp pair of snips. With 8" I can cut it faster and quitter with a shear. Plus I can use that end for a finisher too. I have a double 5 job coming up and I might try the saw blade on that.


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

We cut 16" standing seam roofing panels with a circular saw and metal cutting blades. The only downside is the noise and flying chips.


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## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

Great to know how you're cutting it...any further thoughts on how it'll look in the long run? I know my standing seam metal roof looks like the day I installed it...but that's only 9 months ago. I'm thinking of the fact the place will be in full weather (straight sunlight, zero wind protection, guy probably will fly stones at it from the lawn mower, has 3 kids). I'm definitely leaning toward giving it a whirl, I'll have to check with Alside and Wimsatt/ABC to see price-points, but it looks like a good option anyway!


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## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Tell the guy to throw down some topsoil and grass seed and get rid of the rocks that will f-up the siding. Problem solved 


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

mstrat said:


> Great to know how you're cutting it...any further thoughts on how it'll look in the long run? I know my standing seam metal roof looks like the day I installed it...but that's only 9 months ago. I'm thinking of the fact the place will be in full weather (straight sunlight, zero wind protection, guy probably will fly stones at it from the lawn mower, has 3 kids). I'm definitely leaning toward giving it a whirl, I'll have to check with Alside and Wimsatt/ABC to see price-points, but it looks like a good option anyway!


It holds up very well. 50 year hail , 35 year against chalking. Even with some rocks getting kicked against it will hold up good. It is best to put a drop in backer , helps a lot. 

The only rusting you will get is if it is ground contact. 

With Alside look at their Satinwood Select, the new finish on it is very nice and does not fade like others.


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## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

Got samples of the Alside and Ply Gem...first initial thoughts are that the Ply Gem seems better...but that's just a first glance. The panels 'seemed' thicker and more rigid, but I'll look better at them once I get everyone's pricing... +1 for Alside having pricing on hand though!


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

mstrat said:


> Got samples of the Alside and Ply Gem...first initial thoughts are that the Ply Gem seems better...but that's just a first glance. The panels 'seemed' thicker and more rigid, but I'll look better at them once I get everyone's pricing... +1 for Alside having pricing on hand though!


Ply Gem is 28 Ga G-60 , Alside is 29 Ga G90. G- 90 is a heavier galvanized coating then G- 60 G-90 life is 1.5 times longer then G-60. 

Ply Gem has a SMP coating Alside has a Kynar on the Select and a PVC on the regular Satin wood. 

I f you don.t mine me asking , what kind of price did alside quote you for the Satin Wood or Satin Wood Select? You can Pm if you don't want to share in open forum. Just wondering how back there to here compare is all.


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## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

Started installing the Ply Gem today, we're all getting cramps in the forearms after day 2! (well, the cut guy is anyway!) It absolutely does look nice and flat without much effort...but working in tight places (i.e. a window near a corner) and you're fighting to get pieces set in place without being able to flex the panels at all...so we cut them shorter and fight not being able to hide the cut in the j-channel because it's not a very deep pocket. I think it'll take a little getting used to, but it does lay nice and flat and looks like it'll last a good long while!


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

mstrat said:


> Started installing the Ply Gem today, we're all getting cramps in the forearms after day 2! (well, the cut guy is anyway!) It absolutely does look nice and flat without much effort...but working in tight places (i.e. a window near a corner) and you're fighting to get pieces set in place without being able to flex the panels at all...so we cut them shorter and fight not being able to hide the cut in the j-channel because it's not a very deep pocket. I think it'll take a little getting used to, but it does lay nice and flat and looks like it'll last a good long while!


As much as possible I try to use a full piece where I can. A number of tricks in tight areas. Most of the time I never double channel a inside corner, but rather lay a colored L in the corner first then a J piece for the other side. IMO I think it makes a cleaner looking corner. That is easier to do. With care you would be surprised how much you can flex a panel. But you learn real fast how much you can go. 
Snips do do get hard on the hands, plus blisters if using duckbill snips. Hope it all works out good.for you. 

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## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

Randy Bush said:


> As much as possible I try to use a full piece where I can. A number of tricks in tight areas. Most of the time I never double channel a inside corner, but rather lay a colored L in the corner first then a J piece for the other side. IMO I think it makes a cleaner looking corner. That is easier to do. With care you would be surprised how much you can flex a panel. But you learn real fast how much you can go.
> Snips do do get hard on the hands, plus blisters if using duckbill snips. Hope it all works out good.for you.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V520 using Tapatalk


Thanks, Randy! It was raining all day today, I'll be sure to post a couple pic's as we truck along!


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