# Strapping detached concrete block garage for vinyl siding



## jhteichr (Oct 10, 2014)

I'm hoping someone can advise on the following: So I've been tasked with covering a detached garage with horizontal vinyl siding. In researching this and talking with a few people I've received just about every answer possible. I am planning to strap the wall with 1x3 lumber and fasten with tapcons. On the advise of a several people I purchased non-treated lumber, which I wondered at the time if it is a mistake. I realize this is normally used for strapping sheathing, but against concrete is it asking for rot? It was suggested that I show put a strip of tyvek between the wood and concrete to prevent wicking into the wood. As far as I know Tyvek will not "wick" moisture, but is not a vapor barrier either. Would 6mil Poly or tar paper be more appropriate? I'm considering giving the backs of the strapping a quick coat of green preservative before the go up. Lastly, are there any thoughts on putting additional weather barrier on top of the strapping, which isn't usually done?

Any thoughts are appreciated!


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

I would have suggested PT but it is what it is now and it is only a garage.

No vapor barrier, just my opinions of course.

Now, who the hell are you and why didn't you post an introduction?

Just giving you a hard time.

It's like being in the field ain't it?

Andy.


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## Framer53 (Feb 23, 2008)

I would hope you are covering the strapping.
I have used strapping on concrete with no problems. Just don't start at ground level.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Putting vinyl siding just over strapping, I can see that not holding up over the long haul. 

I have done something like this before with a block house. Used 1x4 strapping with ridge foam board in between, then was covered with steel siding. Liquid nailed and screwed wood to the blocks. Still looks good 20 years later.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

Randy Bush said:


> Putting vinyl siding just over strapping, I can see that not holding up over the long haul. I have done something like this before with a block house. Used 1x4 strapping with ridge foam board in between, then was covered with steel siding. Liquid nailed and screwed wood to the blocks. Still looks good 20 years later.


I was going to say, use some construction adhesive to add another means of connection in case any of the anchors loosen up over time.

Then again, i cant imagine liquid nails holding up longer than tapcons, if they snug up when driven.

Unless you do the siding, flashing and trim all wrong, and the garage is over a marsh, i imagine non treated furring will last a long time. But sounds like youre very concerned, so why didnt you get PT?

By the time the wood starts rotting and the tapcons lose their grip, that vinyl will be in a landfill in exchange for another style or color of that decade.


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## jhteichr (Oct 10, 2014)

*thanks for the replies*

Thanks all for the replies! Sorry for not introducing myself. I do small to medium renovations, working out of southwestern Ontario, Canada. I've only been running my own business for 3 years now, but have worked for a friend for about 7 years before this. Its good to hear from people who've been doing these things much longer than me!

Should have mentioned that as was pointed out I'd be putting foam in between the strapping for support. Since no one carries PT strapping nearby I'd probably have to rip my own (easy, but extra work). It seems like the consensus though is just screw them directly to the blocks, maybe a bit of adhesive, and probably put some breathable housewrap between the strapping and vinyl. Wicking in the block is probably minimal since it is all above ground and the vinyl lets a lot of air around it. Probably you are right that it is overthinking since the vinyl will probably be gone before the wood rots and if I go PT, the tapcons will probably rust out before the wood rots.


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## paul100 (Dec 7, 2008)

I think tapconing the strapping is overkill and time consuming. We usually use glue and nails to do this. Either hand nail with masonry nails or if there is a lot to do we get hardened nails for our framing nailer and shoot them on. You are not holding a lot of weight with vinyl siding.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

personally i would sheath over the furring first and eliminate the foam before installing vinyl,but thats just me


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Tom Struble said:


> personally i would sheath over the furring first and eliminate the foam before installing vinyl,but thats just me


Is this because of wind behind the vinyl? If it's not I'm clueless as to why and also really curious about the desire for sheathing which in my mind is just more weight.


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## JAH (Jul 27, 2014)

We use pt 2x4 sleepers with pl premium and a few tapcons. If the inside of the structure is conditioned we will fill in between the sleepers with 1.5" rigid insulation. The rigid doesnt do much but something is better than nothing.


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