# Latex Migration?



## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

I am having issues on my bathrooms where replace only part of the drywall. We have to skim what is left and re-texture. 

My drywall sub has used durabond, light weight mud, regular mud, topping mud. The issue is small pin hole sized bubbles in the mud. 

1st coat over old drywall comes out fine, all other coats leave pin holes sized bubbles to the point where he is skimming it 3-4 times. 

It was recommended that we use oil base primer over old drywall before skimming. 

Any body run into a similar issue?


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## Probity Drywall (Mar 2, 2012)

Yes and you can keep skiming and skiming the pin holes will still come. The moisture cant soak into the wall so it escapes through the finish coat. i like to paint with synko pre coat. It comonly fills those pin holes, but if not pre coat is sandable and that will get rid of them. Or prime skim, sand and prime again. I don't know about oil base. Hope this helps


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

This has been discussed before. 
Some members have said that by adding a little dawn dish detergent can help resolve this problem. :thumbsup:
I personally have not tried this method though. :no:


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## I Mester (Aug 21, 2011)

only dawn? ajax wont work? just kidding. i've heard that too. just never got around to trying it. . pain in the a$$


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## Probity Drywall (Mar 2, 2012)

I know some tapers who use dish soap for fresh board. I could'nt find a difference except my work area smelled nice.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I was wondering if maybe the mud was being mixed too much/vigorously (air), but the first coat being okay is confusing.

I have used Dawn to make the mud creamier for a finish coat. Been a while.

Maybe let it slake a bit longer before applying it to the wall?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> This has been discussed before.
> Some members have said that by adding a little dawn dish detergent can help resolve this problem. :thumbsup:
> I personally have not tried this method though. :no:


It helps, but doesn't always eliminate it. Also, it does little if the hot mud underneath isn't dry enough.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Also have to wonder if enough drying time is being allowed for the conditions. Is the bathroom being used at night between coats?


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## kevjob (Aug 14, 2006)

boman47k said:


> Also have to wonder if enough drying time is being allowed for the conditions. Is the bathroom being used at night between coats?


No, vent fan is running but I am curious if curing time has anything to do with it. normally we can get on the regular mud the next day as we have a dry climate here. 

Stumped.


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Try using a high build drywall primer and sand it down. I like duron new construction drywall primer.

It sands down like a champ and can be applied at very high mils.


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## Probity Drywall (Mar 2, 2012)

Coating over wet mud will cause this and fast set doesn't help because it locks in the moisture. When aplying the finish coat working the mud in limits the problem a great deal.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Probity Drywall said:


> Coating over wet mud will cause this and fast set doesn't help because it locks in the moisture. When aplying the finish coat working the mud in limits the problem a great deal.


 Best thing you can do is overwork it. What I mean is taking a couple xtra swipes wont hurt and even if its been on wall/patch for a minute or too. You will see the pinholes forming as the mud is drying ...take another swipe. It helps


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

also if you are able to rough up painted walls before skim and retexturing it will help. Sounds like just over the painted surface. Dont think oil primer would help as that would just seal the wall even more. Oil primer helps on damaged walls to prevent blistering


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> I am having issues on my bathrooms where replace only part of the drywall.


No problems with other rooms where you do this same repair?


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## 3rdgen (Oct 14, 2010)

kevjob said:


> I am having issues on my bathrooms where replace only part of the drywall. We have to skim what is left and re-texture.
> 
> My drywall sub has used durabond, light weight mud, regular mud, topping mud. The issue is small pin hole sized bubbles in the mud.
> 
> ...


How thick of a skim coat is he applying? I get these pin holes where the mud is deep (where patches meet existing) but where we are just skimming the texture out the mud doesn't need to bury the texture on the first coat. Two fairly tight skim coats works well and you only have to deal with the pin holes in a few areas. It seams like every once in a while I get that employee that was taught to BURY THAT TEXTURE and I gotta straiten him out. When the mud is eased on its not deep enough to gas out it can dry from the top easily. The other nice part about not putting a lot of mud on a painted wall is that it will actually dry over night not sit wet for a day or two. We do our first skim coat let it dry the next day the angle box runs nice through the angles (with fairly stiff mud) let them set up a bit and throw the second skim coat on and she ready!!


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