# Retaining Wall Advice Needed



## Sciethen (Apr 10, 2012)

This year I've been getting into a lot of landscaping (purely personal, nothing professional) and am now looking to replace about 30' long by 4' tall length of rotting railroad ties with stone or concrete.

I am looking for the best of all worlds--the greenest grass on both sides of the fence: I want low cost (materials under $1000 preferably) aesthetically decent (though doesn't have to be amazing), and extremely durable by design. I am willing to use mortar but would prefer a dry wall.

I can get pictures up tomorrow, however the wall is on a steep slope (probably 40 degrees) about ten feet below the top of the slope, and so has to counter considerable erosion. (I've been considering building it taller for that purpose.)

I've also read about someone using simple concrete bags stacked one on another, then hosing it down thoroughly for several days until it sets.

I realize I'm asking for a lot, but willing to consider anything--including cinder blocks with a flagstone facade (although that sounds difficult given that I believe the blocks would have to slant backwards into the slope).

What material should I consider? How should I build the wall with the given material? What is the estimated cost?

I'll post pictures tomorrow for a better idea of what I'm up against.

Thanks in advance!

- Sci

EDIT: Increased price range to $1000, as all quotes on stone/blocks I have found so far are $220 to $300 a pallet.

EDIT 2: Pictures added.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Sorry if I offend. 

This site is for pros. If you are looking for some DIY help there is a DIY forum.

As it stands right now you are going to get hazed beyond belief with your post. $300 for materials for a 30'x4' retaining wall??:no: Not gonna happen. That is not being mean. That is honest.

If you are in the trades please do an intro so we know who we are typing to.:thumbsup:


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Well first thing I would look into is codes. Most munis around me require permit over 24" and some dictate material, to some degree. Example one city does not allow wood of any type if it can be seen from any street, even if it is down an ally. Once you hit a certain height some require engineered walls.


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Figured I would leave the 300 material thing alone as it was just to easy.


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## Sciethen (Apr 10, 2012)

CrpntrFrk said:


> Sorry if I offend.
> 
> This site is for pros. If you are looking for some DIY help there is a DIY forum.
> 
> ...


I found this forum by Googling, and read several other contractors' advice on similar items:

- Retaining Wall Around a Tree
- Similar project

I appreciate the insight though and will go ahead and do an intro.

Also, edited limit to $1000 as it seems more reasonable. I knew my original cost was very low, but figured I'd ask!


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## Sciethen (Apr 10, 2012)

Photos added. I also realized that the support pole on the porch was actually _bolted into_ the railroad ties... talk about shoddy and cheap construction. Because I'm not familiar with external construction, if anyone has advice on that I'm all ears. I'm expecting to have to replace the entire beam with one 5' longer and pour a cement foundation (which I would hire someone with the equipment to do).

The exact measurements of the ties, from left to right are: 7', 13', and 6.5' for a total of 26.5'. Because the ties vary from being stacked 1-6 on each other, the maximum height is 4'.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I'll sell ya 10 of the mafia blocks for g-whiz :thumbsup:


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## wellbuilt home (Oct 22, 2007)

I do a lot of stone dry stack wall with 2 /3 ' boulders as a base and smaller 1x2' rocks above with gravel and pipe drain behind . 
I always have a pile of rock around for a wall . 
I don't know what type of work you do but the material can be had for fuel cost and a landscaper can build a wall in a day with a skid . 
Ive done a bunch of walls for about 2000 bucks but i have all the equipment to do the work and there are boulders laying all over


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

Looks like you have a fairly damp and dark area there, so this might be good for you.

Find a guy who is ripping out some old sidewalk, like a municipal job. If possible, you'll want to get the sections as unbroken as possible. Sidewalk is generally 4' wide.

Fast forward to you and a large supply of 4x4' slabs of old concrete.

Get rid of your railroad ties and excavate out an area to accept something 4' wide. Go ahead and tamp it down. You can put in some rock to get started as you desire.

Now just lay that concrete in there and cross your joints as you go. Step it back an inch or two or four every course. Backfill as you go and tamp it in as well. Do any drainage back there that is necessary.

Repeat as necessary until you reach the top.

I think you'll find that the weathered edge of the concrete will blend in very quickly and you can plant some climbing plant on the face if you want.

The guy getting rid of the concrete should be happy, and your wall should last a good long time.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Hire someone that knows what they are doing.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

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