# Problem with sap oozing out of wood grain



## saucedo80 (Mar 21, 2005)

Hello all, just thought I would post this to see if any of you have had this problem before.

I stained a gazebo last week, and there was a wooden plank that had what appeared to be a sap stain on the surface. I came to this conclusion because I touched it and it was sticky and smelled like sap.

I went ahead and tried several solvents to try and remove the sap. I found that laquer thinner worked best. It got the sticky sap off, so I proceeded to stain. 

I came back four days later to check up on the gazebo, and to my astonishement, the sap had returned and it was oozing again with full force.

Anyone out there have a solution for this problem other than replacing the wooden plank?

Is there a solution to this?


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## Da Vinci (Jun 24, 2007)

saucedo80 said:


> Hello all, just thought I would post this to see if any of you have had this problem before.
> 
> I stained a gazebo last week, and there was a wooden plank that had what appeared to be a sap stain on the surface. I came to this conclusion because I touched it and it was sticky and smelled like sap.
> 
> ...


I have successfully slowed it down or stopped it in the past by using a heat gun or propane torch (if it's going to be painted) to crystallize the sap. SOmetimes it takes a couple of times, but it has worked for me...

Bay Area Painting Company


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

saucedo80 said:


> I came back four days later to check up on the gazebo, and to my astonishement, the sap had returned and it was oozing again with full force.


Actually, that's what I would have expected
Unfortunately, I've no solution save waiting for it to stop oozing and chip it off


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## bigchaz (Jun 17, 2006)

Can take years to stop oozing. Best bet is to replace the board


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2007)

*sap oozing*

I agree with big Chaz. There is nothing to stop that sap. Mike in Moab


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## Wolverine-Eric (Apr 9, 2007)

> I have successfully slowed it down or stopped it in the past by using a heat gun or propane torch (if it's going to be painted) to crystallize the sap. SOmetimes it takes a couple of times, but it has worked for me...


That seams like a pretty good idea to try to me. I know that when you heat pine resin is liquifies. Then, when it cools down it forms a hard film. I guess it makes sense that if you can liquify the sap (which is actually a resin) it may get into the pours and then harden when it cools... blocking the oozing??? 

I have absolutly no experience here... I can just see a way it could work... I'd try it if I were you, it's got to be cheaper than replacing a board... right?


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

bigchaz said:


> Can take years to stop oozing.


True that

Fortunately that's in the 'beyond the painter's control' area


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