# How you gentlemen keep your hammer heads tight?



## Graham J (Nov 7, 2008)

I posted this in Tools as well, but need a hand with this. My 14oz Stiletto Hickory handles seem to come quite loose after about a year of use or so. I replaced the original handle last summer after it started to move about 3/8 inch (slowly, over time) and I could wiggle it by the end. The second handle is starting to loosen now, too. 

Most of the guys on our crew use these hammers, and they all have the same issues, to various extents. I tried soaking the head in water, and it worked for a couple of days, but then went looser than ever. Tried an extra couple of nails in the shims, but it has not seemed to help much. 

FWIW, my 23 oz Vaughn has similar issues. Is the climate just too dry up here in Northern BC, or is there a trick I could use to get these things snug permanently?

Thanks,
Graham


----------



## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

Gorilla glue? 
Steve


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

This is a trick question, right?


----------



## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

Put the hammer in a bucket of water overnight. I have only had this problem in the late spring and summer. The rest of the time it is wet outside so it happens naturally.


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

i usually put lots and lots of gorilla glue or epoxy to the handle before i put a new handle on it. when it does come loose i beat the head down the handle so it slides back down then drive a couple nails in between the metal ring wedges


----------



## frankster (Apr 8, 2010)

The 14oz Stilletto, unless its changed, was a bad design. If you have the 14oz that has no "collar" below the head itself then you might as well toss it. The square collar that was designed with the 16oz never really had a problem with the head coming loose. Or better solution to the problem, bust out the cash and buy a 15oz Tbone and never have that problem again.


----------



## jayincville (May 15, 2010)

I believe they sell wedges that are meant for that very thing. :whistling


----------



## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

If you are using your hammer to pull nails you are going to have this problem. I've got the 14 oz too. I'm on my third handle. But it has been good for three years or more. the second handle I had I pulled too many nails with it. Also, it is imperative that when you put the handle on, you seat it as far down as you possibly can before you put in those two circular wedges. I've actually been pulling some reasonable nails with my hammer and haven't had any issues to date with the handle. I would say you are going to need to soak it in water every night to be happy. shouldn't be too big of a hassle once you get in the habit of doing it.


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

Water evaporates. I've heard of ol' timers puttin a couple a drops of oil in the end before wedgin it, it will expand it and evaporate less or not at all..I have soaked the very tip in oil, in a shallow lid, and had success.


----------



## clinkard (Feb 23, 2009)

With another hammer hit the (butt) handle end of the hammer. This uses the laws of motion (things in motion tend to stay in motion, things at rest tend to stay at rest... something like that) to force the head onto the handle. This is the oldest trick in the book! Hit a a few times really well, should lock it on there tighter than a frogs ass in water.


----------



## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

Upgrade to a solid Titanium Hammer - problem solved.


----------



## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

You can take a small swiss pattern file and file a new shoulder under the head of the hammer on the handle about 1/16th wide. Holding the hammer upright by the handle, wrap the butt of the handle on a wooden bench. Don't do this on a metal surface. This will seat the head on the new shoulder. If this is not enough to re-tighten the head, then file another 1/16th shoulder and try again.

Once you get this tight, use a punch and drive the metal wedge down tight and flush with the new head location. You can then trim the excess that sticks out of the head with a coping saw.


----------



## diamonda (May 16, 2010)

*Tight hammer heads*

Good question my blue vaughn framing hammer has that same problem and all the nails i pull are duplex nails out of concrete forms,got me an eastwing like it lots better.:thumbsup:


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Double-A said:


> You can take a small swiss pattern file and file a new shoulder under the head of the hammer on the handle about 1/16th wide. Holding the hammer upright by the handle, wrap the butt of the handle on a wooden bench. Don't do this on a metal surface. This will seat the head on the new shoulder. If this is not enough to re-tighten the head, then file another 1/16th shoulder and try again.
> 
> Once you get this tight, use a punch and drive the metal wedge down tight and flush with the new head location. You can then trim the excess that sticks out of the head with a coping saw.


I guess this stuff has passed from
every day common knowledge into
the realms of rocket surgery?

Maybe soon there will be an app for that! :laughing:


----------



## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

Doesn't completely suck to be old school I guess. I do like them newfangled batree doodads. Sure beats a brace and bit.


----------



## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

I fixed it by buying steel handled hammer. Never a problem with the head coming loose.


----------



## olligator (Nov 23, 2007)

pinwheel said:


> I fixed it by buying steel handled hammer. Never a problem with the head coming loose.


this


----------



## Mrmac204 (Dec 27, 2006)

this is an age old problem. when I was a kid living in a small logging town, It was pretty common to see the loggers soak their axes in a bucket of linseed oil. that worked great 

Laurie


----------



## Sasquatch (Mar 26, 2008)

Upgrade fiberglass or solid steel or titanium. I know wood is best for the elbow but the others last longer.


----------



## Graham J (Nov 7, 2008)

Thanks for the help. Nope, not a trick question. I have tried soaking it in water, and have tried hitting the butt of the handle, and tried putting a couple of extra nails in the head, and also tried a combination of the above as well as driving the circular wedges down farther.

I have not tried the TiBone yet, but am blamed close to doing that. Thanks for the recommendations!:thumbup:

I might give that oil trick a try. 
I wanted to see if the problem was a technique issue or a product issue. Looks like a product issue to me, at least in part.

Thanks again,
Graham


----------

