# Small Tape Repair Question



## jasonsservices (Jan 23, 2012)

I have to repair a small water damaged section of wall. There is about a 4-5" section of corner tape that has come loose on the wall portion (piece in contact with ceiling is good). After peeling away all paint, can I get a satisfactory repair by mesh taping over the existing tape that is pulling away, or am I going to need to cut away the old tape first. Or is there even a better method I am not aware of?

Thanks!

Jason


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## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

Most definitely cut away all the old loose tape, I'd even be pulling the other half of it that is supposedly good in the ceiling.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

I'm trying to figure out what that is..... almost looks like metal. :blink:

Kinda looks like the paint sorta slid down the wall.


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## Mudshark (Feb 12, 2009)

No biggy, just cut back all loose tape and slide a blade under existing tape to peel back anything not fastened securely. Cut some more and retape. My preference would be to use paper tape rather than mesh tape but thats a whole other debate.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Mudshark said:


> No biggy, just cut back all loose tape and slide a blade under existing tape to peel back anything not fastened securely. Cut some more and retape. My preference would be to use paper tape rather than mesh tape but thats a whole other debate.http://yoursmiles.org/t-black.php


Did Nathan fix DWT? I havent seen you fellas around lately.


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## jasonsservices (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks!

For past repairs I've always cut back the loose tape, but on those repairs the tape was in much worse shape. So I thought I would ask just to be sure.

I won't take the tape completely off,, because the ceiling portion of the corner tape looks really good. Since my finishing skills just barely get me by, I better leave well enough alone and keep the job as simple as possible.

A drywall guy on a youtube video said that you should not use paper tape with hot mud. Is this correct? I often hear that you shouldn't use premix with mesh, but except for this one youtube video, I haven't heard that you shouldn't use paper with hot-mud.

Also, to hide the depth difference where the paint will be removed, I plan to feather over the peel ridge with mud, is this an acceptable and effective way to hide this scar, or is there a better way?

Oh yeah, one more thing: How much time would you allot for this repair? It's a time/materials job, however, I need to provide a "will not exceed" amount. Using hot-mud, is four hours sufficient to repair the damage, prime, then repaint the entire 4x8 section of wall (this is including necessary dry times for the mud and primer)? 

Thanks again,

Jason


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jasonsservices said:


> Thanks!
> 
> For past repairs I've always cut back the loose tape, but on those repairs the tape was in much worse shape. So I thought I would ask just to be sure.
> 
> ...


Again, I stress that you have someone who knows what they are doing tackle this repair. I know that we all need money, but experimenting on someone's home like this just isn't fair to them.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Again, I stress that you have someone who knows what they are doing tackle this repair. I know that we all need money, but experimenting on someone's home like this just isn't fair to them.


Thats sounds boring... :laughing:


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## jasonsservices (Jan 23, 2012)

Here, maybe the picture below will put the job in better perspective. It is a small (less the one square foot) area. It's in a restaurant restroom with texture-less walls.

I am not trying to skimp on the job, but to pull off tape that is stuck firmly in place doesn't make sense. If it appears to be loose, sure, take if off, but if it's tight, is there any real reason to re-do what appears to be good to go? 

If I didn't feel comfortable with the scope of the work, I would walk away. But I do feel comfortable with it and I have done it before (only the tape damage was more significant). If I was the incompetent idiot, I would just do the job well enough to get paid and go on my may, but instead I am here asking a few basic question just to make sure that the job will be done in the correct way.

A simple yes or no answer to the hot-mud and paper tape question would be helpful?

Though I wasn't searching out this particular job on youtube, I will admit that I use it as well as the rest of the internet often to research jobs. I research until I have several common opinions, then cross my fingers and go for it. And so far so good. Over the course of the past couple of years, I have developed a happy, repeat customer base. Though my general knowledge is not very broad, I have the ability to research and learn. And most importantly, I have the ability to realize when it is in my customers best interest to find someone with more experience for the job. I don't perform work that requires a license (which in my state only includes plumbing and electric - roofing requires some kind of paperwork, but I don't think it's a license), and I do not take on jobs where my lack of knowledge could put someone in harms way.

Regarding allotted time, sure our allotted time will be different, but certainly on a site like this, there are several guys of equal skill who could give me an approximate. I am not asking for a price estimate (the big no no here), but simply a time estimate. I would think that with the picture (the better one below) provided, it shouldn't be that difficult, but I could be wrong there.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Cut out loose tape on wall side. Scrape loose paint back. Damp sponge to wipe off dust/powder. Apply mesh tape if needed. 2-3 coats of 5 minute quickset. Tight skim topping mix. Done.

That job looks like my minimum fee. 3 hour. Thats 1 hour to to the repair and 2 for travel and bull$#*t. Not to exceed 1/2 day at the most. Does not include paint.

Cutting the tape on the ceiling is not necessary if it is really bonded well. Did I say ''really bonded well''.

I try not to mess with ceilings unless I really have to. Due to the painting issue. But if it has to be ......it has to be done! 

And Jason, mesh gets hot mud only in my book. :thumbsup:

Good Luck.

Edit: You should use 20 min. And bring a fan to help dry. Not sure how much experience you have with quickset.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Should be a pretty quik fix.20 min sounds better beings youre not a taper. You can mix 20 wth hot water to speed it up. I would want to use a regular topping mud for final coat. For the retapin part,if its an angle tape use paper


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I can only base my opinion from the information you provide. You need to reread your OP from my perspective.

A 1ft sq area turns into 2 or three sq ft when properly feathered.

Paper tape shouldn't be used with hot mud. But fr a small patch job, there are always exceptions to the rule. Go for it. It's not going to hurt anything on this small of a patch.

I agree with IDAHO 100%. 20 minute for the first two coats and then a top coat of topping mud. It will be so thin that it will dry in time to paint. Make sure that all areas are 100% dry before applying the next layer. Use a good primer (do not skimp on primer and paint!). If you don't have the original paint, you may want to paint the entire wall on the last coat. I would put a few coats on the patch first to build up texture (given by the roller on the original paint job). Use a wizzy roller with a longer nap to add texture.


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## jasonsservices (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks Big Shoe and Idaho, I appreciate the straight forward answers.

I have used a bags worth of 45 minute hot-mud with decent results, so I assume that moving to a 20 minute mud shouldn't be to big of deal considering my repair area is quite small.

I was hoping to complete this job in one day. If I skim coat with premix, will dry time push me back substantially, or will it dry fairly quick because it is a "skim coat?"

One more thing? I understand that I am to only use mesh with hot-mud, but my question is in regards to the opposite. If I use paper tape, can I only use premix, or is hot-mud ok with paper. I once heard that using hot-mud with paper will cause the paper tape to fail. Was this guy blowing smoke, or is that the case?

Thank again guys!

Jason


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## jasonsservices (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks TNT, we were replying at the same time.

The wall has no texture, my only concern is to hide the paint depth difference where I stop peeling it away. I hope to accomplish this with the mud.

Just curious, what is the down side to using hot-mud as the final skim coat? 

Thanks!


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Jason, If your wanting to paint that repair the same day. You might want to invest in a heat gun.:thumbsup:


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## jasonsservices (Jan 23, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Jason, If your wanting to paint that repair the same day. You might want to invest in a heat gun.:thumbsup:


Well, I had it in my brain that I wanted to do it in one day, but if has to be broken up over two, then so be it I guess.

I do have a heat gun. Is it ok to force dry mud (premix)?


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

jasonsservices said:


> Is it ok to force dry mud (premix)?


Yes. Not to fast though or the mud will crack. 
Sometimes I will even heat the surface before applying the mud. :thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I am also curious about hotmud with paper. I came across an article somewhere lately about this subject, and it got me to wondering about it. It does not seem to give me a problem with that little bit of mudding I have done over the years.

I have also read that hotmud will bleed through paint. To my knowlege I have not had that happen either. I will say that today I will use regular or finish mud for final coat.

I do remember a time or two I could see both regular mud and hotmud in a repair that was painted with no problem.

I should say what I call hotmud is setting mud. Not sure everyone considers setting mud to be hotmud.

P.S. I do not like mesh. Seems to be twice as thick as paper and more difficult to cover.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

boman47k said:


> I am also curious about hotmud with paper. I came across an article somewhere lately about this subject, and it got me to wondering about it. It does not seem to give me a problem with that little bit of mudding I have done over the years.
> 
> I have also read that hotmud will bleed through paint. To my knowlege I have not had that happen either. I will say that today I will use regular or finish mud for final coat.
> 
> ...


I've used paper tape with hot mud for years. The only problems I've ever had was when I didn't get the bedding right, and wound up with some blisters. This is typically more of a problem with patching, as opposed to new construction. The thinner mesh tapes aren't much thicker than paper, and I'll always use these on corners where cracking of the patch may be a problem in the future.

Lightweight hot mud has a different dried texture than a painted wall, so it can be a pain to blend it with the already-painted wall - it shows through on a smooth wall unless you use the right primer, and may require extra coats. I use Durabond for a final coat to get the final texture so I don't have to put too many coats of paint on.


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## Mudshark (Feb 12, 2009)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> Did Nathan fix DWT? I havent seen you fellas around lately.


He has made some improvements but not entirely fixed. Some members there have just left and not come back, some of us are suffering through the changes. Nathan has his advertising dollars coming in now so I guess that is all that really matters to him.
:whistling


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