# Joining Hollow Core Doors



## Hutch01 (Feb 18, 2018)

I'm currently working on a basement renovation, the client is pretty much at their max budget. They have a set of bi-fold doors spanning a 48" opening that leads to a home office. The ceiling is getting painted flat black, I'm trimming out the top of the drywall with flat casing. 

Given that the basement will have an updated, somewhat contemporary look, I'd like to convert the exiting bi-fold doors to a barn door. Aside from glue, does any have suggestions on how best to secure all 4 panels into a single door given they are hollow core? I don't want to risk a return visit 3 month down the line if I can't come up with a good solution.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

How about pulling the hinges, pocket screw or dowel the side rails then run a solid piece of 5/4 across the top and across the bottom. Even angle iron if the inside is not visible. Thats a cheap option


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

If they’re out of money it’s time to stop working. Not look for ways to cobble the rest of the job and be on the hook for said cobbles.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Since it's modern, how about getting two hollow flat slabs and connecting those instead? Then there's just one joint to worry about vs 3 and less headache. glue, biscuits, pocket screws, etc. 

I saw a new high end home get those and it was funny at the time....I wonder how they held up. The same house had a large steam shower bathroom with floor to ceiling glass walls on a 12x16 footprint. I guess that's where they burned their budget.


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## Hutch01 (Feb 18, 2018)

Tom M said:


> How about pulling the hinges, pocket screw or dowel the side rails then run a solid piece of 5/4 across the top and across the bottom. Even angle iron if the inside is not visible. Thats a cheap option


I like the idea about running 5/4 along the top and bottom, and the dowels too.


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

Big Johnson said:


> If they’re out of money it’s time to stop working. Not look for ways to cobble the rest of the job and be on the hook for said cobbles.


X2 out of money? then you're out of a contractor. period. Good luck finding someone to finish for free. If you find them let me know...I'll put them to work.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

MarkJames said:


> Since it's modern, how about getting two hollow flat slabs and connecting those instead? Then there's just one joint to worry about vs 3 and less headache. glue, biscuits, pocket screws, etc.
> 
> I saw a new high end home get those and it was funny at the time....I wonder how they held up. The same house had a large steam shower bathroom with floor to ceiling glass walls on a 12x16 footprint. I guess that's where they burned their budget.


My time to dick around with that would be more than the cost of buying a decorative barn door or two. Or (2) 24” slabs of my customers choice.


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## Hutch01 (Feb 18, 2018)

Big Johnson said:


> If they’re out of money it’s time to stop working. Not look for ways to cobble the rest of the job and be on the hook for said cobbles.


Whoa big fella, how does max budget equal out of money? Their basement is nothing but a kids play room, they're allocating money for other parts of the house.

Last I checked an off the shelf unit that size is at least $400, this wont take more than an hour of my time. I'm pretty happy with my daily rate, but it doesn't break down to $400 an hour.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

Hutch01 said:


> Whoa big fella, how does max budget equal out of money? Their basement is nothing but a kids play room, they're allocating money for other parts of the house.
> 
> Last I checked an off the shelf unit that size is at least $400, this wont take more than an hour of my time. I'm pretty happy with my daily rate, but it doesn't break down to $400 an hour.


If you’re so sure of yourself why are you asking us? You should be telling us...... “hey guys, look at this awesome basement I finished with kickass repurposed bifolds that saved my customers money and made me some bank.”


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

It is a contractor forum. Ideas..... Shop talk


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Get a 48" slab and call it a day. 

Not only you will save your customer money and leave them with something that looks hacked up, you will save yourself some time dealing with BS.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Hutch01 said:


> I like the idea about running 5/4 along the top and bottom, and the dowels too.




Hutch01 said:


> Whoa big fella, how does max budget equal out of money? Their basement is nothing but a kids play room, they're allocating money for other parts of the house.
> 
> *Last I checked an off the shelf unit that size is at least $400, this wont take more than an hour of my time. I'm pretty happy with my daily rate, but it doesn't break down to $400 an hour.*



It's not just an hour though right? Even employing a solution like Tom mentioned above, unless you have leftover material onsite from another phase of the projects you're doing, you still have to get the materials (there and back), setup/breakdown to be able to work the doors, cutting, gluing, clamping, nailing, filling, sanding, prime/paint, then re-install... if you can do all that in an hour, hat's off to you, but my guess is more like a minimum of half-day when all is said and done... even if your daily rate is only $400, that's $200 in labor PLUS materials someone has to pay for... keep in mind, it's still only going to look like an applique because it's not going to have the traditional features that most people associate with a barn door...

You might want to instead consider doing yourself and your customer a solid and selling them on a just getting a new door...


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

This isn't going to look like a barn door, and looks is the most important thing. You can get a decent look with 2 sheets of beadboard and a basic wood framework.


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## Rio (Oct 13, 2009)

Here's a photo of a faux barn door, these were originally 3' wide hollow core by-pass closet doors. That's stained cedar fencing that was glued screwed and tattoed onto the door(s). It's worked great and was inexpensive.

I think something like that would be an affordable alternative and would cost less than trying to get the door pieces to all stay together in plane.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

if it's a 48" opening AND a home office, you need a door that's wider than 48" so that the gap is covered. The air gap around the door will allow noise to come in. 

with the time involved with glueing up 4 12" panels buying 2 24" hollow core doors is cheaper. I've seen dual doors but never one large 48" door, that will be interesting. 

If you are set on making the 4 panels into one, bonding them all together with a solid piece of wood on top and bottom while glueing each door to the other, would be the way I may tackle it.


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