# what is the best flat roofing?



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

I have been a residential roofer for 12 years. So I have done many asphalt shingle and metal roofs. Friend of the family owns a motel with a 30,000 sq ft flat roof. What is the best product out there now for this project? And what is the best way to price a job this size?


----------



## BrandConst (May 9, 2011)

where at? several factors involved. you could always go over an existing mod bit or b/u with a 1" iso and a single ply tpo or pvc. not a fan of epdm but different regions have had better luck with it.


----------



## OldNBroken (Feb 8, 2008)

Prepare for a million different opinions.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks Brand. I'm in New jersey.


----------



## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

bryanp said:


> I have been a residential roofer for 12 years. So I have done many asphalt shingle and metal roofs. Friend of the family owns a motel with a 30,000 sq ft flat roof. What is the best product out there now for this project? And what is the best way to price a job this size?


Since your not experienced with doing flat roofs,I'd suggest getting local bids from qualified installers ,follow up on their references and hire the one you feel is capable of getting it done right.
Its an expensive system,and warranties will be void unless installed by certified roofing company.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks ol dirt. But if I never did anything for the first time, I wouldn't know how to do anything now


----------



## BrandConst (May 9, 2011)

bryanp said:


> Thanks ol dirt. But if I never did anything for the first time, I wouldn't know how to do anything now


Keep in mind, single ply is COMPLETELY different than shingles. Requires different equipment. You may want to follow the advice above or find yourself in a big mess or at the very least get someone qualified to assist you. Do your homework before!


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

I really do appreciate the advice olfrt n Brand. I've been doing homework since I was approached with the opportunity. I've researched the web, talked to friends and associates, and talking to you guys. But again, if nobody ever let me cut, I wouldn't know how to cut. If no one ever let me measure, I wouldn't know how. If I were never given a chance, I wouldn't have my own successful business. I do appreciate all the advice and opinions.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

bryanp said:


> I really do appreciate the advice olfrt n Brand. I've been doing homework since I was approached with the opportunity. I've researched the web, talked to friends and associates, and talking to you guys. But again, if nobody ever let me cut, I wouldn't know how to cut. If no one ever let me measure, I wouldn't know how. If I were never given a chance, I wouldn't have my own successful business. I do appreciate all the advice and opinions.


This is NOT the flat to cut your teeth on. You have been warned, best of luck to you. Put your ego aside and listen to what everyone is telling you.

Every contractor should be familliar with 3 phrases, I can't, I shouldn't, and I won't. This one falls under you shouldn't.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

As much as I wish I was, I'm not fortunate enough tobe able to pick n choose my work. My three phases are: I'm hungry, need to eat, and gonna feed my family.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

bryanp said:


> As much as I wish I was, I'm not fortunate enough tobe able to pick n choose my work. My three phases are: I'm hungry, need to eat, and gonna feed my family.


I'd find a qualified person willing to do a joint venture. I understand your situation, I really do. Got myself into some trouble on a siding gig being in your shoes. I'm pretty decent on a flat and I would not take that on alone, equipment alone would be a hassle and if you have no clue, you will struggle to make cost.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

I'm not trying to come off sounding like a jerk. But what I am asking is what do professionals think the best product is and an equation on pricing this job. Thanks for all the warnings. I will be the first to post if I totally screw this up,but don't leave your computer waiting to see that.


----------



## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Part of this equation will be which product can you get certified by the manufacturer to install?

You evidently have the CAN DO attitude...

Just don't let your ego over ride the common sense you hopefully have...


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

If you can get certified through IB roof systems, they have great support along with factory install technicians. It would also be about the best product on the market but it is BIG$$$$.

TPO is a great product as well , also a plastic membrane. These are probably your most user friendly applications.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks A&E


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

The place is getting solar panels. They are required to get a New roof. They are getting prices under $100,000. Everything I've researched is telling me this job is minimum $120,000 for torch down; $200,000 for TPO and EPDM.


----------



## KennMacMoragh (Sep 16, 2008)

When something like this comes up, I find it's best to call the different manufacturers and talk to them about installation techniques. They know more about what they're selling than anybody here will know. Then do as much research as you can on the product since you haven't installed it before. 

But I am with you as far as having the confidence to do it yourself. It amazes me how often pro's on here say "Hire someone else to do it". Once you've done enough carpentry, it's not that hard to learn something new, I do it all the time. Difference of opinion I guess, I don't understand it.


----------



## KennMacMoragh (Sep 16, 2008)

bryanp said:


> The place is getting solar panels. They are required to get a New roof. They are getting prices under $100,000. Everything I've researched is telling me this job is minimum $120,000 for torch down; $200,000 for TPO and EPDM.


If that's what you've researched then keep it at that, don't even think about lowering it to be competitive. I remember on a roofing job I was helping with, the guy I was working for got multiple bids for putting on some 3-tab. He got one price at $30/square, one at $40/square, and one at $58/square. He figured the guy priced at $58 a square was way out of the ball park and that he didn't want to do it. 

So he hired the $30 a square guy, he lasted about two days then left, said he couldn't do it for that low. Then he hired the $40 a square guy, they lasted a couple weeks before we fired them. They had their rows going up and down like a roller coaster, never heard of a chalk line I guess. Then we found out he was unlicensed, had no insurance. So we resorted to the $58 a square guy who worked out fine. 

The guys priced under $100,000 might be skipping something, like workers comp. You don't want to stoop that low and do the same thing to be competitive. Let the builder know that you are properly insured, provide WC, and provide a warranty consistent with the manufacturers warranty. If he still wants to do it cheap, then let him do it cheap. He can hire the lower priced guy, but he may be calling you back anyway to finish.


----------



## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Your attitude is commendable for sure. But cutting your teeth on a flat that is 30,000 square feet with (i'm guessing) multiple penetrations that need to be properly flashed and (I'm guessing) some substrate repair needed before roofing.... is borderline insane. And I don't mean ANY offense by that at all. It's a huge project that a typical commercial roofer would probably use a fairly large crew on. They would bring in a dozen guys and have that roof torn off, all repairs done and the new roof back on in a couple of days.

If you've got access to that many experienced roofers who know what they are doing on a flat that size, then do your research, pick a product (I agree on the TPO rec), get certified with the manufacturer, figure our your costs and desired profit and price out the job and go from there. If this is something you think you and a couple of buddies can handle, don't. That's my best advice.

Cut your teeth on residential flats or even small commercial flats before you take on a 300 square project.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

CompleteW&D said:


> Your attitude is commendable for sure. But cutting your teeth on a flat that is 30,000 square feet with (i'm guessing) multiple penetrations that need to be properly flashed and (I'm guessing) some substrate repair needed before roofing.... is borderline insane. And I don't mean ANY offense by that at all. It's a huge project that a typical commercial roofer would probably use a fairly large crew on. They would bring in a dozen guys and have that roof torn off, all repairs done and the new roof back on in a couple of days.
> 
> If you've got access to that many experienced roofers who know what they are doing on a flat that size, then do your research, pick a product (I agree on the TPO rec), get certified with the manufacturer, figure our your costs and desired profit and price out the job and go from there. If this is something you think you and a couple of buddies can handle, don't. That's my best advice.
> 
> Cut your teeth on residential flats or even small commercial flats before you take on a 300 square project.


That was my point exactly. I really wish this guy the best. But as you say, this is borderline nuts. It might seem like the answer to the OP's problems, but in reality, will probably come back to bite the OP and leave him in a worse predicament.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Be sure to add the cost of a $10,000 robotic seam welder to the price. You'll never handweld 300 sq


----------



## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

A&E Exteriors said:


> That was my point exactly. I really wish this guy the best. But as you say, this is borderline nuts. It might seem like the answer to the OP's problems, but in reality, will probably come back to bite the OP and leave him in a worse predicament.


Not to mention the BIG thing that hasn't come up yet (unless it's on page 2 which I haven't gotten to yet)... is how well equiped is the OP to carry thousands of dollars for the next three months? A typical comercial project can go 60 - 90 days before it's paid and they don't think a thing about it. So the OP will have to have the $$$ to pay for his materials _and_ labor LONG before he will ever see a dime for the project.


----------



## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

We do this type of work. Everyone who has commented basically saying crawl before you walk. 300Sq is no little thing and not something you want to jump in to. Some mentioned TPO and PVC. Both great products they also mentioned the welders you have got 10+k for a robot welder, and you will need one of these on that big of a job, you also will need a hand welder, better set aside another 5k for that. Not to mention training to use these items. You also need to be trained to install the product. are you going to Fully adhere it or Mechanically attach it? 

Lets take a look at EPDM, another great product. You still need items to install this.

You mentioned Torch down. Have you ever ran a torch? Figure in cost of the torches and related equipment.

You could also do a BUR roof, IMO one of the best roofs out there. Better set aside 5-10K for a used kettle. Again lots of training on this, we have people who have worked here for years who still can not mop to save their life.


Now lets look at some other things. How are you going to get the tear off down and the materials up? You said it was a motel so I would assume at least 2 storys tall. You can't just chuck the trash down. SO better set aside for a crane or tele fork lift to get materials up, Going to have to get a trash chute as well, you may be able to rent these. 

Now I would guess they owners would want a warranty right? Good luck, if you do not have any experience with flat roofing. Any distributer will sell the materials to you, the manufacture wont just hand out a warranty.


Another aspect to look at you said it was a family friend, what happens when you don't flash a pipe correctly, or any penetration for that matter and it leaks? This could put a big strain on that relationship.


Doing flat roofing is more then just watching some videos on the internet. You have to do the work first hand and it's damn sure not as easy as it looks.

I seriously would start on something a lot smaller, you said you need to eat and feed your family, be prepared to pay upfront for 50+K of materials and wait until 60-120 days to get paid after the job is done. Any mistakes and that comes out of your pocket. 

When we started doing flat roofs we did little porches and stuff. Slowly building our selfs to where we are today. 

Please for you own sake do not do this. The companies coming in at 100k are more then likely experienced. Maybe you can work out a deal with them and gain a bit of it your self.


----------



## BrandConst (May 9, 2011)

1985gt said:


> We do this type of work. Everyone who has commented basically saying crawl before you walk. 300Sq is no little thing and not something you want to jump in to. Some mentioned TPO and PVC. Both great products they also mentioned the welders you have got 10+k for a robot welder, and you will need one of these on that big of a job, you also will need a hand welder, better set aside another 5k for that. Not to mention training to use these items. You also need to be trained to install the product. are you going to Fully adhere it or Mechanically attach it?
> 
> Lets take a look at EPDM, another great product. You still need items to install this.
> 
> ...


I would say he's got to go mechanical for the prices he listed earlier.


----------



## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

More then likely, still though you can't expect a couple of guys with drills to do that big of a job in good time. I don't see that being a winning situation for him. I would start with 3 sq or maybe even push up to 30 sq if he's feeling frisky. 300 is really just out of the question IMO.


----------



## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

1985gt said:


> More then likely, still though you can't expect a couple of guys with drills to do that big of a job in good time. I don't see that being a winning situation for him. I would start with 3 sq or maybe even push up to 30 sq if he's feeling frisky. 300 is really just out of the question IMO.


Even a 30 square mechanically fastened flat would be pretty daunting for a first timer.

And the whole "friend" thing muddies the water even more.


----------



## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

Very true, but I'd rather lose my ass on a 30 sq then a 300sq. The friend thing is big clue not to make any mistakes. If you do and you some how remain friends you won't live it down.


----------



## WindowsonWash (Nov 1, 2011)

Is there zero slop to it at all?

If there is any slope (0.5:12) you can run mechanically seamed metal.


----------



## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

tell me if im wrong but i thought it was against the "rules" on this here site to post and promote yourself?


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

JWilliams said:


> tell me if im wrong but i thought it was against the "rules" on this here site to post and promote yourself?


It is. Poof!


----------



## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

angus i told you i should be made a MOD!


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Yes but one of your compadres actually report the post :whistling:


----------



## RoofSales (Dec 7, 2011)

Lots of things to be considered... To start with:
-How many roof systems are currently in place
-What is the condition of the existing roof system(s)
-Can you recover or is full or partial tear necessary?
-How many penetrations? 
-How much foot traffic?
-What type of structural deck?
-When is 'their season' and how long does the project need to be completed in?
-What are they trying to accomplish with the project - Keeping water out, reduce heating/cooling bill, etc...

If this is his first commercial roofing project he's in for a ride. Like someone said, get ready for 100 'best solutions.' Just make sure he understands exactly WHY people are recommending certain things (are they recommending them because they are the best options or because that is all they do).


----------



## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

i dont know how damnit!

EDIT nevermind im a big DUMMY


----------



## tekwrytr (Sep 11, 2007)

It might be that I am not as humble as I might be, but doing 300 square as a starter project seems quite doable, and probably will be one of the most interesting experiences available.

Installing EPDM is not rocket science, as long as you pay VERY close attention to detail work--seams, flashings, etc. I routinely do 100 square commercial buildings by myself, or with one helper, and I am not Godzilla. If the EPDM is loaded on the roof, there is no big deal with installing an EPDM roof. 

Avoid fully-adhered with solvent-based adhesives your first time. If you cannot use water-based adhesives (December in Jersey it is unlikely), go for screwed down ("mechanically adhered") or ballasted. Again, pay VERY close attention to seams and flashings. If you have enough help, ballasted is a no-brainer. Quick, easy, and almost foolproof, as long as you are meticulous about the details--especially the seams. There is NO room for error. Seams and detail work has to be perfect, or the roof will fail.

Prices for EPDM in Minnesota are about two thirds the amounts you stated. We can install 60 mil EPDM over buffer board all day for $2.50 to $3.00 a square foot, primo job, tearoff (if necessary) not included. 

As for modified bitumen, that is pretty simple stuff. Get a Red Dragon torch trolley (under $1000) for field work, hand torch for details, and a "standing seamer" for finishing the seams. Not as much fun (or as fast) as EPDM, but the heat from the torches is nice in winter.

In a pinch, you can hire me as a "consultant" and I'll show you how to do it. I am shut down for the winter here and bored anyway.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

Thank you so much tekwrytr. Will do.


----------



## bryanp (Dec 14, 2011)

Hey buddy


----------



## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

RoofYourWorld said:


> Lots of things to be considered... To start with:
> -How many roof systems are currently in place
> -What is the condition of the existing roof system(s)
> -Can you recover or is full or partial tear necessary?
> ...


Plus, insulation, tapered planning, pre-install drains testing, flood testing, OSHA safety regulations, permits, etc...

This isn't a weekend job. This is a bonafide marriage.

Not to mention meeting manufacturer standards as an installer in order to secure a warranty.


----------



## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

OP, 

The smart thing to do here would be to sell the job to someone who could do it (of course, getting yourself a nice fat commission) and act as a Project Manager on the job for your friend keeping an eye on the work and "learning" from watching the company doing the work (double dipping). 

Zero risk to you and you get to learn for your next sale and you can actually get the credit for successfully doing this job (which you can add to your portfolio).


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

2ndGen said:


> OP,
> 
> The smart thing to do here would be to sell the job to someone who could do it (of course, getting yourself a nice fat commission) and act as a Project Manager on the job for your friend keeping an eye on the work and "learning" from watching the company doing the work (double dipping).
> 
> Zero risk to you and you get to learn for your next sale and you can actually get the credit for successfully doing this job (which you can add to your portfolio).


What he said.


----------



## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

WORD :thumbup:


----------



## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

Personally, I like PVC membranes, but I don't have a lot of experience installing them myself. I'm getting sent to training later this year though. My company installs them. We just put on a rather large one in PVC.

TPO is second choice, but it really isn't time proven.

EPDM shrinks a LOT, and will tent around penetrations and walls. They also use adhered seams which isn't as good as a welded seam.

Mechanically attached PVC over recovery board is what you should be thinking. You'll have to be certified or you won't get any warranty. We use Duro-Last, I've heard a lot of good things about IB too. You can get tapered recovery board to make sure you don't get any ponding.

With torch down, you've got to think ... do I want to bring a flame thrower on my friend's roof? Also, I'm pretty sure that those need at least a 1/4:12 pitch.

Now to get on the bandwagon ... you don't want to go this one alone! I'd find a reputable and certified installer, and sell the job for them as someone suggested.


----------



## larson1951 (Sep 4, 2010)

take the advice of 2ndgen, A&E, completew&d and 1985GT
for your first flat roof you want to do a 300 square 100K (or more) job?
and for a family friend???? (at least for now) 
ARE YOU CRAZY ?????


----------



## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

Per another conv, and another job I looked at I'll correct myself - thin non-reinforced EPDM shrinks a LOT. The thick reinforced stuff is much better. I went on a job that was done in EPDM that was old and leaky - but it didn't shrink enough to tent or pull away from anything.


----------



## BrandConst (May 9, 2011)

RamanMaan said:


> You should consult a roofer. They have great knowledge in this field. They will suggest you the best for your house.


Uhhhh, maybe you should read the ENTIRE thread before making a dumb post like this. :blink:


----------



## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

smalpierre said:


> Per another conv, and another job I looked at I'll correct myself - thin non-reinforced EPDM shrinks a LOT. The thick reinforced stuff is much better. I went on a job that was done in EPDM that was old and leaky - but it didn't shrink enough to tent or pull away from anything.



45-60 mill ballast EPDM "shrinks" 
45-60-90 mill Fully adhered EPDM does not "shrink"
45-60-90 mill Mechanically Attached EPDM can "shrink" in areas.

45-60 mill reinforced EPDM ballasted "shrinks"
45-60-75 mill Fully adhered EPDM does not "shrink"
45-60-75 mill Mechanically Attached EPDM can "shrink" in areas. (if installed incorrectly.)

The "shrinking" from what I have been told from manufactures reps is the EPDM actually trying to return to its original form. Basically a big rubber ball.

That is why you see the Ballasted roofs pull away from the walls first, there is no positive attachment like on a fully adhered. Even the RTS and anchor bar is not enough to resist that force. I've seen them pull brick walls down not to mention screwed down nailers.

If you see a Fully adhered "shrinking" is most likely because there was a leak and it has loosened the glue. Once the glue is no longer holding it it will keep pulling and pulling until its off or fixed.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

bryanp said:


> I have been a residential roofer for 12 years. So I have done many asphalt shingle and metal roofs. Friend of the family owns a motel with a 30,000 sq ft flat roof. What is the best product out there now for this project? And what is the best way to price a job this size?


so what'd you come up with.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i think most of the major man. want you to be ''certified''with their system before they even sell to you,it should be like that anyway:sad:


----------



## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

I'm at Duro Last now - well, at the hotel RIGHT now, but you know what I mean ...

They won't sell to you until you are certified, and they won't warranty the install until they inspect it.

I think the guy's asking for trouble if he tries to install that roof without help from a pro.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

smalpierre said:


> I'm at Duro Last now - well, at the hotel RIGHT now, but you know what I mean ...
> 
> They won't sell to you until you are certified, and they won't warranty the install until they inspect it.
> 
> I think the guy's asking for trouble if he tries to install that roof without help from a pro.


No doubt about it.


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I'd settle for a nice comission on it myself, and I know what I'm doing.


----------



## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

smalpierre said:


> I'm at Duro Last now - well, at the hotel RIGHT now, but you know what I mean ...
> 
> They won't sell to you until you are certified, and they won't warranty the install until they inspect it.
> 
> I think the guy's asking for trouble if he tries to install that roof without help from a pro.


Some times being certified is not that hard, I would bet you I could call D/L right now and we would get certified. Most company's have to inspect it first before they send the warranty certificate. 

Hey while your down there ask D/l if they want their 1998 video title "installing the worlds best roof" back. This is the kicker, its a 30 minute video! 30 min's to learn to install the best roof in the world! :blink:

I hope they really do good training, from what I have seen not so much. Maybe they are trying to change that, and good for them!


----------



## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

1985gt said:


> Some times being certified is not that hard, I would bet you I could call D/L right now and we would get certified. Most company's have to inspect it first before they send the warranty certificate.
> 
> Hey while your down there ask D/l if they want their 1998 video title "installing the worlds best roof" back. This is the kicker, its a 30 minute video! 30 min's to learn to install the best roof in the world! :blink:
> 
> I hope they really do good training, from what I have seen not so much. Maybe they are trying to change that, and good for them!


The first day was all about specs, and details - what to use where, and how it has to be done to pass inspection. We got to weld some items toward the end of the day - some of the flashings, seams, and things like that - and we installed a mock up.

Second day was mostly how to lay out, and fill out the order sheets, finishing the mock up, and more welding. Some of the guys broke off into the sales / marketing section, including the sales guy that was with me.

There was a factory tour, and they showed us the lab with wind uplift simulator, burn tester, and a weld tearing machine.

You won't get certified with a phone call. The guys there are great, and they are always available with a phone call.

I like a lot of their system, but the prefab thing still seems like more of a pain than it's worth. Their factory welds though are no comparison to a weld done in the field. They are incredibly consistent and strong. The prefab thing has its advantages and disadvantages like anything else. The instructor could do a relatively simple layout in about a minute though, so even a complex one might not be that hard once you get used to it.

What I like the most about it, is that I can get someone on the phone quickly - and I call the guy I want on his cell, don't have to go through gatekeepers and listen to hold music.

Oh, and it can be installed with Rhino Bond too! That system is fire!!!

And they make 60 mil now ...


----------



## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

Somebody in roofingtalk mentioned that it spider web cracks when it's cold and gets a hail strike. I don't know about that, they had some pieces in a deep freeze, and when they pulled that icey piece of DL out, it was quite flexible, and even weldable.

From what I gather, they have weeded out some of the contractors that didn't "do right" too. They really seem interested in producing a quality end product, and the ability to provide a 20 year NDL material / labor warranty is pretty good. They don't want to eat a job because joe schmoe didn't do something the way it's supposed to be done.


----------



## smalpierre (Jan 19, 2011)

1985gt said:


> Some times being certified is not that hard, I would bet you I could call D/L right now and we would get certified. Most company's have to inspect it first before they send the warranty certificate.
> 
> Hey while your down there ask D/l if they want their 1998 video title "installing the worlds best roof" back. This is the kicker, its a 30 minute video! 30 min's to learn to install the best roof in the world! :blink:
> 
> I hope they really do good training, from what I have seen not so much. Maybe they are trying to change that, and good for them!


I want that vid!


----------



## 1985gt (Dec 10, 2010)

smalpierre said:


> Somebody in roofingtalk mentioned that it spider web cracks when it's cold and gets a hail strike. I don't know about that, they had some pieces in a deep freeze, and when they pulled that icey piece of DL out, it was quite flexible, and even weldable.
> 
> From what I gather, they have weeded out some of the contractors that didn't "do right" too. They really seem interested in producing a quality end product, and the ability to provide a 20 year NDL material / labor warranty is pretty good. They don't want to eat a job because joe schmoe didn't do something the way it's supposed to be done.



It was me and a hand full of others over there. One of them I worked on was about 8 years old. Well with in warranty and D/l would never call the owner back. Now thats customer service!

I'm sure one of the reasons they make 60 mil is to keep out with everyone else. I think they had like a 32 mil or something. 

Anything PVC or TPO can be rhino bonded. We got our machine years ago, talk about a time saver.

I would never install it my self, to me laying down a 1/4 coverboard and M/A A bag of PVC down is not roofing. Its cheap but its not roofing. Thats just my opinion.


----------

