# Cabinet Finishes, Car Paint, Spray Gun



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

My parents just had a custom bathroom vanity sprayed with car paint & clear coat. Looks awesome. 

Has anyone ever heard about this before? Is this an expensive process?

Spraying was done in a spray both

Paint alone is around $180 a gallon. Any alternative paints to get the same finish?


WOuld an airless or hvlp setup be able to handle this job?


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## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

Kraftmaid has a line of cabinets called "Venicia" that looks like it was painted with car paint. If I wasn't so stupid I would just post a link, but I'm not sure how.http://kraftmaid.com/#






Wait...I mighta got lucky...


guess not


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

You can spray most anything with anything as long as the prep work is done properly.


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

Teetorbilt said:


> You can spray most anything with anything as long as the prep work is done properly.


Yep, the prep is the most important thing, I've painted cabinets and a truck with the Rustoleum (or similar) paint that you can purchase by the pint, quart, gallon at quite reasonable prices at hardware stores, etc. Mix it up with some thinner and spray it on the same as auto paint.


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## firemike (Dec 11, 2005)

A contractor friend that also does tractor restoration had a bunch of metal kitchen cabinets he salvaged from a kitchen remodel. Prepped them and sprayed them John Deere green with a the yellow trim and logos and everything. 

Looked like a freshly painted tractor. Looked really sharp when he got them mounted in his shop.

Had another guy paint his bathroom vanity with black lacquer, probably 12 to 14 coats. Looked like a piece of fine furniture when he was done, nice glossy finish like a piano.


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## DeanV (Feb 20, 2006)

HVLP or conventional would be ideal for auto paint. Make sure you are set up safely though, from what I have heard, the solvents in that stuff is much worse than what we a used to for the nervous system.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

I'm not one to shy away from a little overkill (me: "probably a little overkill for the situation...but you'll never have to worry about it")

But an auto-grade coating and clear coat on a bathroom vanity is freakin' ridiculous

:laughing:

An airless will not work
An HVLP and a special air booth (air transfer w/o dust) would be required
Well..suggested
Technically you could do it in your garage but trust me you don't want to


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

slickshift said:


> I'm not one to shy away from a little overkill (me: "probably a little overkill for the situation...but you'll never have to worry about it")
> 
> But an auto-grade coating and clear coat on a bathroom vanity is freakin' ridiculous
> 
> ...





Slick, these cabinets are painted & clear coated as well. 
What alternatives do you suggest? The cabinets are actually painted at my uncles body shop. they actually done their kitchens in this finish. i guess its because thats what they have available at the shop. 

If i could have the same looks without buying the stuff for 180 a gallon, please by all means suggest something to me (pref. something in the SW) line.


Looks like HVLP wins this one. Just curious, why an hvlp over an airless?


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

plazaman said:


> The cabinets are actually painted at my uncles body shop. ...thats what they have available at the shop.


Ah...that makes much more sense


plazaman said:


> If i could have the same looks without buying the stuff for 180 a gallon, please by all means suggest something to me (pref. something in the SW) line.


No
There is nothing else like it
Not easier and cheaper anyway


plazaman said:


> Looks like HVLP wins this one. Just curious, why an hvlp over an airless?


That type of finish would never work in an airless
It's an HVLP type unit


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

now which hvlp setup do you guys recommend? i been thinking about a spraytech turbinet setup


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## THINKPAINTING (Feb 24, 2007)

Ive used Graco, Titan, Accuspray, and Wagner(spraytech).

Accuspray makes the best guns, all different types.

We use a high gloss oil on cabinets when customer wants a mirror finish
my brother has been using SW Industrial Enamel for years with great results
whether brushed or sprayed.

We have used Devoe Devflex with good results as well......

As for automotive paint, you spray that in your garage, you will see little green men.....

Just my experince's over the years, and the green men as well:shifty:


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

what do you mean green men? (im slow at times)

Accuspray, is it only gun i should look unto or the complete setup with compressor?


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Someone here is as old as I am. The 'little green men' is a term for space aliens from the 40's-50's.:laughing::laughing:

I have a PC turbine setup that works well but I haven't found anything that beats getting down and dirty with a Binks.


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## THINKPAINTING (Feb 24, 2007)

plazaman said:


> what do you mean green men? (im slow at times)
> 
> Accuspray, is it only gun i should look unto or the complete setup with compressor?


Accuspray guns and turbines or as teetorbilt said binks alos makes a nice unit.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

i have a 4 cfm 100 psi compressor, will that work? would i just buy the gun alone or the complete turbine setup?


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

http://wwwd.graco.com/Distributors/DLibrary.nsf/Files/339377A/$file/339377A.pdf


the chart says a conventional setup would leave me with a better finish. how true is that?

Basically, i want a unit that can shoot car paint, clear, and leave me with a great finish.


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## KJLinden2002 (Dec 29, 2007)

I'm not quite sure what you guys are talking about? Are you talking about using air assisted pumps. Cause the only way I see you spraying a nice coat of car paint is with out a piston pump. I've sprayed cars with the conventional air system at around 80 psi or so and it works great. I don't see a difference in painting plastic wood or anything. As long as you get compatible primers. If you go to the auto PPG store you can pick up a quart of white paint for around $25 and clear coat for probably $50. This does not include the reducer and everything you will need with it. You will probably spend about $100-$150 for the paint but if your going to take the time to prep it what does it matter. The prep will take a lot longer. Go talk to the guys at the auto paint store and they can help you.

Using a piston pump would not be feasible for the paint. Not only does it suck up paint fast but your 50' hose would store a quart on its own. Get a compressor with a regulator and a nice gun which will run about $500.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

im looking into 1 of those units that has the compressor and hose in 1


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## KJLinden2002 (Dec 29, 2007)

You are talking about getting a piston pump? It wont give you the same texture. Auto paints are shot in guns that hold the paint in cups. They don't feed paint through houses. It is simply air that atomizes the paint at the tip. Some are gravity fed. All you need is a portable air compressor and a gun with a regulator.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

who makes the best overall hvlp turbine setup?


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## ibsocal (Feb 24, 2007)

the final finish depends on how well u master the tools/material at hand (projector set/viscosity/technique). a hvlp gun will work fine with your compressor and actually requires less air to atomize,they are desinged to work @ 10 psi.all systems can produce orange peel and overspray.......
the 7500 looks like a better gun then the graco/capspray.but u can also use spraytech/wagner conversion gun with a 1 1/2 hp compressor or any turbine blower.another thing to consider is using a remote pot for spraying in tight areas ,u cant do it good with a cup gun.I dont have a prefrence for any souped up vacuum cleaners and have used many name and no name brands but i will tell u right now i use a wagner fine coat andcheapo 25 buck plastic gun,works great.spraying a lot of epoxies and acrylic urethanes daily.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

ibsocal said:


> the final finish depends on how well u master the tools/material at hand (projector set/viscosity/technique). a hvlp gun will work fine with your compressor and actually requires less air to atomize,they are desinged to work @ 10 psi.all systems can produce orange peel and overspray.......
> the 7500 looks like a better gun then the graco/capspray.but u can also use spraytech/wagner conversion gun with a 1 1/2 hp compressor or any turbine blower.another thing to consider is using a remote pot for spraying in tight areas ,u cant do it good with a cup gun.I dont have a prefrence for any souped up vacuum cleaners and have used many name and no name brands but i will tell u right now i use a wagner fine coat andcheapo 25 buck plastic gun,works great.spraying a lot of epoxies and acrylic urethanes daily.


any links to where i can purchase this gun? I guess at 25 bucks, it worth a try with my current compressor.


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## ibsocal (Feb 24, 2007)

the plastic 25 buck gun works best with a turbine / blower type system.the gun for your compressor is a conversion hvlp gun check it out @ gleempaint.com @ 130 bucks.sorry i forgot how to do a link.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

if i decided to do without a turbine. Who makes a very nice Conversion gun? Something that will give me great results. Binks, devilbiss or maybe something outside like apollo? (Which line) 

Also, if i did went with a conversion gun, that means i'll need 1 of those dessicant/filters? How necessary is it?


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## Jonesey (Jul 7, 2006)

plazaman said:


> Steve, thanks for the informative reply, as usual, i have tons of questions
> 
> 1) Do you have a link to that SW product? How does it compare to an automotive finish? I want the best possibile finish. As mentioned before, i have a custom bath vanity in my home that has been preped and spray with car paint. Its a $180 gallon PPG paint, acrylic urethane. Do you think it will compare to the SW?
> 
> ...


Automotive acrylic urethanes require an HVLP. There are two reasons for that. The pot life on automotive finishes is really low. Some are only 4 hours. Wouldn't want that to seal up your nice new thousand dollar rig. Second reason is atomization. You can get better atomization and lower material flow with an HVLP than you can with an airless. When buying expensive paint, that pays you back. You can literally cut your material usage by 50% or more by switching to HVLP. Most of that savings is the thinness of material though. What takes 4 coats to achieve 3.5 mils with an airless will take 15 or more with an HVLP. 

If you really want a perfect finish (completely smooth and free of defects) look into grain fillers and pre-cat laquers. Google grain-filler. Talk to your rep about pre-cat or CAB Acrylic laquer.

1. wipe piece down with water, resand with 120 with grain
2. wipe piece down with naptha, allow to dry 4 hours
3. apply grain filler
4. sand with 150, then 220 using sanding block
5. wipe down with naptha, allow to dry 4 hours
6. apply solid color undercoat or clear vynil sealer, 2 coats airless, 5 coats HVLP
7. sand to 220 with block
8. wipe clean with tack cloth
9. apply 3 coats solid color or pre-cat/CAB clear airless, 8 coats HVLP
10. allow to cure 36 hours
11. buff with a medium cut pad
12. buff with a flannel extra fine cut pad and menzerna extra-fine compound

Note: be careful while buffing. You can cut right through that finish in nothing flat

13. 12 oz curl, repeat. Admire finish.

That's my finish schedule for my guitars. Works well on cabinets too. I did a vanity top last year that way. Kind of a waste of time if you ask me. It was poplar, but that's what she wanted, so that's what we did.

BTW, you don't want to spray automotive paint or CV in your house unless you want everybody in the house to wear a respirator for a week.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Jonesey said:


> Automotive acrylic urethanes require an HVLP. There are two reasons for that. The pot life on automotive finishes is really low. Some are only 4 hours. Wouldn't want that to seal up your nice new thousand dollar rig. Second reason is atomization. You can get better atomization and lower material flow with an HVLP than you can with an airless. When buying expensive paint, that pays you back. You can literally cut your material usage by 50% or more by switching to HVLP. Most of that savings is the thinness of material though. What takes 4 coats to achieve 3.5 mils with an airless will take 15 or more with an HVLP.
> 
> If you really want a perfect finish (completely smooth and free of defects) look into grain fillers and pre-cat laquers. Google grain-filler. Talk to your rep about pre-cat or CAB Acrylic laquer.
> 
> ...




Thanks for the info, What is process 13? What do you use to spray? Turbine setup?


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

For # 13 my choice would be Becks dark but that's just me.


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## Jonesey (Jul 7, 2006)

plazaman said:


> Thanks for the info, What is process 13? What do you use to spray? Turbine setup?


I use a compressor setup in the shop. A turbine setup will give you more consistent air flow without valleys in pressure. Just make sure that the filters are clean if you buy used. My first choice would be a Graco procomp 4900. Comes with 2 qt remote cup, decent gun and #0-#5 needle sets, with a 2 stage filter I believe. 

The Capspray is a good system, but you have to buy your needle sets as you need them. I think it comes with the #3. 

Be careful when buying used. Graco warranties are nontransferrable, and both Capspray and Graco have had problems with motor life in earlier models. If you don't clean the filters out religeously, the motors won't last very long. 

As for the 12 oz. curl, as Teetor noted it's a fun way to say "Sit down with a six-pack and vegetate." 

I wouldn't worry too much about orange peel. If it's bad, just wetsand before you put your last 2-3 coats on with HVLP. You'll need 600 grit wet or dry or higher for wetsanding. If you do wetsand, wait for your finish to cure (at least 2 days) and add a little palmolive to the water. Just be sure to wipe the whole cabinet clean afterwards. The soap doesn't help adhesion of the final coats of laquer if you leave it on there.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

im trying to purchase a spray gun from spraygunworld.com so many guns? Can I use 1 gun for primer, base, and clear? Which should i go with?


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

plazaman said:


> im trying to purchase a spray gun from spraygunworld.com so many guns? Can I use 1 gun for primer, base, and clear? Which should i go with?


 
Yes you can use one gun for everything. I wouldn't do it myself but you could. I have two guns, one for color and one for clears. The clear only sees clear, the color is for everything else. You will need to get a few different tip sizes to spray a wide range of viscosities if you are going to spray different products. Clears and stains will require a smaller orifice, stain being the smallest and primer and base coating will require will require a larger orifice primer needing a larger orifice.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Just a Binks and change the tips. I've been doing it for 38 yrs. Cars, boats, it's just squirting paint.


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Teetorbilt said:


> Just a Binks and change the tips. I've been doing it for 38 yrs. Cars, boats, it's just squirting paint.


the compressor im thinking about purchasing will do [email protected] 40, will this be enough for great results? How much is your rated at? DO you get orange peel with your finishes?


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## user20594 (Jan 4, 2008)

*panderson2414*

I have not read the whole post, I dont have to why would you buy more air if you already have a compressor


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## user20594 (Jan 4, 2008)

*panderson2414*

I have run HVLP,s I have used air spray. I know what urethane does to cars and wood. The best gun that I have is an air spray gun. It is a Graco . I would like to know if I have helped any one? Anyone got a super stick ? Anyone ever got the other leads I sent them. PANDERSON2414


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

panderson2414 said:


> I have run HVLP,s I have used air spray. I know what urethane does to cars and wood. The best gun that I have is an air spray gun. It is a Graco . I would like to know if I have helped any one? Anyone got a super stick ? Anyone ever got the other leads I sent them. PANDERSON2414


Just so you know,
The last two posts are your first ones on this thread. Sometimes threads look a lot alike, & are even started by the same person.

He's concerned that his compressors don't pit out enough air.
Joe


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

My hoses are 3/8 id, with 1/4" connects. SHould i look for a hose with 3/8ths ends as well?


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## 98mustangguy (Sep 6, 2007)

Heres another one buy a Iawata or Sharpe finex gun but actually some of the best guns on the market are made buy sata. Ill tell you right know it is going to be awefully expensive for all this set-up why would you even bother why not just some nice stained finish hell for the price of a good set-up you could buy a few new cabinets. if you use your shop air compressor make sure you use dessicators in line as the water that builds up inside your home air compressor will kill the job. also you need to buy a supplied air respirator and have the compressor for your breathing air in fresh air far away from your painting room


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## 98mustangguy (Sep 6, 2007)

plazaman said:


> the compressor im thinking about purchasing will do [email protected] 40, will this be enough for great results? How much is your rated at? DO you get orange peel with your finishes?


all depends on the gun you want and the tip sizes you are running/ material running. Look at the gun manufacturers websites. some guns go as low as 4-6 cfm others take upward of 14-18cfm. I guess I dont understand why you would want to drop all this dough. orange peel hmmmm. well keep air extremely dry, dont over or under pressure. have you ever sprayed before?? try House of Kolor shimirin pearl or chameleon paints, throw in a speckle of metal flake or pearl powder. while your at it might as well buy a paint mixer for auto paint, a gun fill station, an ultrasonic cleaner to assist in cleaning guns, steel wool 000 grit for sanding, and a filtered air spray booth as epa might get ya for sprayin auto finish in garage. watch or for the ico-cyanides(is that spelled right) in the paint as it will have serious health effects


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

the 2 guns im considering are iwata and sata miniguns. No stain here, must be auto finish, we had a vanity sprayed with them and it looks great. 

At most i'll be spending 12-1300 at most without paint, considering we paid 1100 for 1 single vanity. Imagine what it would cost for a entire kitchen. We have airless spraying experience, and 1 or 2 time experience with automotive. Am ok with the hoses?


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