# Coping saw issue?



## Dave in Pa (Oct 10, 2009)

Yes, as stupid as it does sound! 

We hired a new carpenter at work this week, and got into a discussion on a coping saw. WHAT way do you all put the blade in? To cut on a pull up stroke, from the back to face, or the push down stroke from the face to the back? 

I do the push, down from the face to the back.


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## jaydee (Mar 20, 2014)

Dave in Pa said:


> I do the push, down from the face to the back.


that's how I do it.


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## Dave in Pa (Oct 10, 2009)

And I did buy a new saw at HD today, and the blade was in the pull stroke, must of been from china! LOL


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

jaydee said:


> that's how I do it.


Same. Your pushing down into the wood not risking splintering out the face.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Push to cut. It leaves a cleaner finish, it's easier to hold material against cut bench, & uses weight of arm & saw to an advantage, instead of disadvantage. 

Having said that, you have to have a strong frame, & very good blades of the proper pitch to cut on the push.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

What is this coping saw you speak of?









I do all my coping with the jigsaw.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

ah..just miter it..:whistling


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

tom struble said:


> ah..just miter it..:whistling


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

American blades cut on the push stroke.I like to use Japenese saws for cutting joinery because they cut on the pull stroke and are much easier to control.
When coping molding these days I use an older Bosch jig saw that is very smooth cutting and does a fine job.I don't even use a fine blade with it.Find it does better for coping with a 14 tpi blade.You have to be careful as it is aggressive but will be quick and does a clean cut.


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

I have never seen or tried a japanese coping saw but would like to find one if anyone has any clues.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

mako1 said:


> I have never seen or tried a japanese coping saw but would like to find one if anyone has any clues.


I was about to launch into a sarcastic rant,
But decided against it.

http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/medias/sys_master/712517_01_P_WE_8.jpg

As mentioned before, the Japanese style has more to do with the blade tooth shape and orientation than it does the saw itself.


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## C&C Custom Trim (Apr 20, 2014)

Push also. 

Anybody know of a saw on the market with a good strong frame? The old Craftsman with the square hoop and threads on the handle and far end was my long time favorite and they no longer carry them.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

What am I missing? I've always cut from the back, on the pull stroke, with a coping saw. Don't the teeth point towards the handle on all coping saws?


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

tenon0774 said:


> I was about to launch into a sarcastic rant,
> But decided against it.
> 
> http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/medias/sys_master/712517_01_P_WE_8.jpg
> ...


Don't know why you would go on a rant.I own and use many Japanese saws.Just have never seen a Japanese coping saw.Sure there were some out there.Would like more information than just that online pic with no link?


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## Dave in Pa (Oct 10, 2009)

Railman said:


> Push to cut. It leaves a cleaner finish, it's easier to hold material against cut bench, & uses weight of arm & saw to an advantage, instead of disadvantage.
> 
> Having said that, you have to have a strong frame, & very good blades of the proper pitch to cut on the push.


Where in the hell can you find them in today's world? Good quality, just not in the market place anymore!!


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

There are places like Woodcraft and Rockler that have them but they are not the same quality they used to be and are expensive.I'm glad I have several good ones bought 20 or so years ago.Like every thing else ,good quality just not the same.
I just never thought about looking for a Japanese coping saw then.


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## Needles (May 18, 2012)

C&C Custom Trim said:


> Push also.
> 
> Anybody know of a saw on the market with a good strong frame? The old Craftsman with the square hoop and threads on the handle and far end was my long time favorite and they no longer carry them.


I was looking at a Bahco coping saw the other day. I almost bought it to replace my rarely used chi-com buck brothers. I hate that saw. 

From the looks of it. Looked pretty solid and will do 360 degrees. German made tooling. Definitely will be going back to get that saw. Didn't have all my tool buying cash on me that day. Best part was under 20 bucks.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

mako1 said:


> Don't know why you would go on a rant.I own and use many Japanese saws.Just have never seen a Japanese coping saw.Sure there were some out there.Would like more information than just that online pic with no link?


I have never seen one either...

More to the point of "it's about the blade, not the saw".

The spiral toothed blade the "scroll saw" guys use kinda makes the pull vs. push debate, moot.

Don't know if they make that blade for the "western" coping saw frame.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

tenon0774 said:


> I have never seen one either...
> 
> 
> Don't know if they make that blade for the "western" coping saw frame.


What about for the Kobalt coping saw frame...? :whistling

I'm guessing the blades it came with aren't the great cause it's kinda hard to cope honestly...


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

EthanB said:


> What am I missing? I've always cut from the back, on the pull stroke, with a coping saw. Don't the teeth point towards the handle on all coping saws?


I have always done coping on the push stroke. That way I can place the material on the bench, just off of the edge and have a nice solid backing for the stroke.

Andy.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

ScipioAfricanus said:


> I have always done coping on the push stroke. That way I can place the material on the bench, just off of the edge and have a nice solid backing for the stroke.
> 
> Andy.


I used to(jigsaw and grinder guy now) run a piece of material with a 45 bevel off the edge of my bench by about 6" and lay the trim on that so I had free space below to work the saw. I've pretty much always used pull saws though so it's natural to me while pushing a saw is very uncomfortable. I remember using my grandfathers push saws when I was little but I started using dozuki and ryoba in high school.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

EthanB said:


> I used to(jigsaw and grinder guy now) run a piece of material with a 45 bevel off the edge of my bench by about 6" and lay the trim on that so I had free space below to work the saw. I remember using my grandfathers push saws when I was little but I started using dozuki and ryoba in high school.


A dozuki and ryoba to cope?

Nice! ( mad handsaw skills )

( I'll have to try that. )


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

I cope using a pull stroke as well. I start at the knife edge of my miter cut and angle the saw to get a significant back cut.
I always stop just short of the profile and file the rest away.
I haven't learned any of these new-fangled jigsaw and grinder techniques yet.:nerd:::notworthy


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

From the front of the molding, push to cut.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

tenon0774 said:


> I like pina coladas and walks in the rain.
> 
> Nice! ( mad editing skills )


Turnabout is fair play.:whistling


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Coping miters and general finish carpentry on the push. Typically standing over the work.

Bench work cutting on the pull. See pic

Coping saw was the first one (saw) I was taught to use, at 6-7 years old... LOL on the pull stroke. Was absolutely amazed a decade later how well cutting on the push stroke worked for coping miters.

Personally the frame is not all that important. It needs to have a stiff spring action and a fairly large diameter handle to feel comfortable and have control. (Freud would have a field day) Having the proper tooth per inch blade for thickness-species-type of cutting-personal "style" is the most important.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

EthanB said:


> Turnabout is fair play.:whistling












Btw, I wasn't being sarcastic.

Good shot, anyways.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

tenon0774 said:


> View attachment 114598
> 
> 
> Btw, I wasn't being sarcastic.
> ...





EthanB said:


> *I've pretty much always used pull saws though so it's natural to me while pushing a saw is very uncomfortable*. I remember using my grandfathers push saws when I was little but I started using dozuki and ryoba in high school.


Oh, you edited out the bold part so it sounded like I did cope with those saws. I thought you were pranking me. :thumbup:


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

Not at all.

I actually thought about it, coping with those Japanese saws.

Interesting.

That's what I thought.

...that and it's kinda "calling" me to try it!

Even on 1/2" x 3/4" base shoe. 

I use a jigsaw for all my copes ( after the mitersaw back cut and perp cut ) and clean everything up with a file.

- Scott


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## C&C Custom Trim (Apr 20, 2014)

Texas Wax said:


> Personally the frame is not all that important. It needs to have a stiff spring action and a fairly large diameter handle to feel comfortable and have control. (Freud would have a field day) Having the proper tooth per inch blade for thickness-species-type of cutting-personal "style" is the most important.


Have to disagree with that. I've found frame strength directly tied to blade life. Weak frames and I pop blades daily, a good strong frame and a blade will last many months. Much cleaner cuts and less binds with a strong frame also.


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## C&C Custom Trim (Apr 20, 2014)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> What about for the Kobalt coping saw frame...? :whistling I'm guessing the blades it came with aren't the great cause it's kinda hard to cope honestly...


The Kobalt frame is one of the stronger round style frames. Blades do suck, Stanley is much better. The handle will come apart in short time though.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

C&C Custom Trim said:


> The Kobalt frame is one of the stronger round style frames. Blades do suck, Stanley is much better. The handle will come apart in short time though.


My first one came apart after a couple months. This one has lasted maybe two years.

I need new blades though, or a better knowledge of which blade type to use... the thing is hard as crap to cut soft pine with on PFJ base and crown.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

C&C Custom Trim said:


> Have to disagree with that. I've found frame strength directly tied to blade life. Weak frames and I pop blades daily, a good strong frame and a blade will last many months. Much cleaner cuts and less binds with a strong frame also.


You don't get a stiff spring action from a weak frame. 'Not important comment' was geared toward brand and tool snobbery


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## mgb (Oct 31, 2008)

I like to cut on the pull. Must be all the years of holding the jigsaw upside down...


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

Push stroke here. Like most woodworking...a sharp blade makes all the difference.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Sharp blade actually makes it harder to start the cut, once it's started it's much nicer.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

I start the cut with a razor knife slit.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That might work.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Leo G said:


> Sharp blade actually makes it harder to start the cut, once it's started it's much nicer.



Use the dull side of the blade? - Pull the saw to start the cut


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That's what I do. Pull a stroke or 2 to get it started.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Leo G said:


> That's what I do. Pull a stroke or 2 to get it started.


 Are we still talking about coping saws, or copulating?:laughing::whistling


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

You must do it different them me.  You have to push before you can pull...:whistling











Unless you're flying solo.


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## tipitop (Dec 3, 2013)

Confused here. Do you say you guys use hand coping saw? Would live trade right away. At first job in USA they give me Bosh jig saw and blade with straight fine toots (still always possible find everywhere and just say - for fine cut). Never used nothing else. Used file to fine adjust cuts, do not use even it already 10 years.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

tipitop said:


> confused here. Do you say you guys use hand coping saw? Would live trade right away. At first job in usa they give me bosh jig saw and blade with straight fine toots (still always possible find everywhere and just say - for fine cut). Never used nothing else. Used file to fine adjust cuts, do not use even it already 10 years.





tenon0774 said:


> i use a jigsaw for all my copes ( after the mitersaw back cut and perp cut ) and clean everything up with a file.
> 
> - scott


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## mgb (Oct 31, 2008)

i used to use a jigsaw for coping, but if its mdf you just end up eating dust. At least with the coping saw I find it just as fast with alot less dust.


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