# best/lightest worm drive circular saw?



## TempestV

BKFranks said:


> Direct connect rocks! You don't have to disassemble the saw to replace the cord. I have a 25' cord that's always plugged into the saw. If it ever gets cut, it's so much easy to replace it.


If you cut your cord so much that ease of cord replacement becomes an issue, then I would think that there is a better solution than an easy to replace cord. Personally, I've never cut a cord on either of my saws, or any of the ones I've used over the years.


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## Michaeljp86

TempestV said:


> If you cut your cord so much that ease of cord replacement becomes an issue, then I would think that there is a better solution than an easy to replace cord. Personally, I've never cut a cord on either of my saws, or any of the ones I've used over the years.


I have never cut a cord, I have come close. One thing nice about direct connect is there is no cord getting tangled up in the back of your truck.


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## bcradio

Michaeljp86 said:


> I have never cut a cord, I have come close. One thing nice about direct connect is there is no cord getting tangled up in the back of your truck.


also another nice thing is no getting snagged up on a long cut... just put a 25 foot extension and the plug will never get caught and mess up your cut


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## Michaeljp86

bcradio said:


> also another nice thing is no getting snagged up on a long cut... just put a 25 foot extension and the plug will never get caught and mess up your cut


Ive done that, always ends in  :furious::furious::furious:


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## Greg Di

FWIW, I have a Bosch Wormdrive and the new Makita Hypoid.

The Makita is lighter and has a better feel to it. The Bosch has a little bigger set of balls, but I prefer the Makita now and have never had it bog down.

Hell, I dry cut concrete with the Makita Monday which reminds me I have to go blow the crap out of it now...


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## john5mt

you can fix that by either adding a 10' cord to your saw or cutting it down to a 6" cord


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## RedFlint

*Now I Feel Old!*

Nearly all the saws are good and have their own place, but it always depends on what works for you the best and what you are cutting! Other than the Rigid (it's not lack of love, just never ran across many) I have owned and used the Skill, Milwaukee, Rockwell, Black & Decker, Bosch, DeWalt, and the Makita hypoids and the only one I ever shot-putted off the roof was the older (pre Bosch) Skill. During that time period, the Rockwell out performed it and took far more daily abuse. When you need to cut through layers of roofing & sheathing, nothing can beat the Milwaukee and every Plumber loves to tear-up our wet-walls with them. Need to cut a little concrete, the Black & Decker, still gets the job done after 25 years! I have both the original & new Makita (added my own sky-hook) and wouldn't swap it for anything! Yes, it took getting use to the start-up kick, and the weight dosen't bother me, but they do everything I need and quickly. Haven't used the DeWalt much, but it seems fine, like the Bosch, when working on the deck, doing multiple beveled cuts. So it just depends on what you are doing. As for the comfort/what works for you, you need to test them, as everyone has their own requirements. On my crew, no one with touch my Makita hypoid, one alwys uses a Milwaukee, two pre Bosch Skills users and two current Bosch/Skill users, so hold them at every angle in the stores, start them up and do your bi-cep curls. There is one you will talk to you the best!


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## carpentershane

I have an old Skil 77, made in America, 13 amp saw. It is a heavy bugger but it is a workhorse... I have used the Makita, Bosch, Ridgid, Skil 77 and the Skil 77 mag. If I bought a new one I would go with the Bosch direct connect, although I am not happy with the amount of plastic on it. The new 77's are made in China, not quite the same as the old ones. I got mine from my dad and it is easily 15 years old. Still runs like a champ though...


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## fr8train

I have the Bosch direct connect. It does the trick for me, but it is also the first wormdrive saw I have ever owned/used, it is also the heaviest saw I have ever used. I didn't use it for about 2 months, picked it up and thought "Holy crap, this thing is a lump". Also, I haven't had to do much over head cutting with it. I think the weight of it helps with the start-up torque, and for some reason it just seems to cut straighter than any sidewinder I have ever used (but that could just be me). I never feel like I have to push the saw through anything I've cut with it, just line it up and guide it through, cuts like butter.


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## Inner10

I "had" the new milwaukee until I blew up the gearbox in about 100 cuts...now I'm waiting to hear back on its fate.


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## Michaeljp86

Ive got a skil with a old blade in it. It works fine and seems to be built good. Ive never used enough of them to say which is better. 

My 14" gas engine saw is the way to go.


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## jtpro

john5mt said:


> you can fix that by either adding a 10' cord to your saw or *cutting it down to a 6" cord*


That's pretty clever. I'll tell a freind about that as I um never um cut...well my friend says thanks.:thumbup::whistling


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## maninthesea

I have the milwaukee and am happy with it. But it aint light!


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## Inner10

Wormdrives in general arn't light....do you have the new milwaukee or the old one?


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## maninthesea

I have the newerone. Had the old one for proably 10-12 years until it went on a walkabout. Just was not where it was supposed to be one day. No one knew anything. 
I have been waiting to hear what happens with yours in case I have the same problem. I have closer to 1000 cuts than your 100 and all seems well so far.
I bought the blade left tiltlock on vetrans day. Been happy with it until it drew blood friday. Had to put 3 stitches in(my fault completly dont ask) Just wondering if i should put it down now that its tasted human flesh.


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## maninthesea

Inner10 said:


> Wormdrives in general arn't light....do you have the new milwaukee or the old one?


Inner 10 I remember you said your lube oil seemed wrong. Cant remember if you said it was different color or too thin? I want to check if mine is the same and maybe replace.


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## Inner10

> Inner 10 I remember you said your lube oil seemed wrong.


When I first looked through the sight glass I didn't see any oil, then I realized that it was really thick and grey in colour. I decided to read the manuel and it says they come lubed from the factory with "special milwaukee oil" and only service centres should change the oil. I then assumed that they must use some special synthetic oil that looks weird.

When I took it in for service (still haven't heared back BTW) the service guy commented on how the oil looked incorrect. 

I guess it may have grenaded because they filled the fcukin gear box with saki or eggrolls or some sh!t instead of oil.


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## KennMacMoragh

I started using the Bosch worm drives about six years ago, I think when they first came out. I thought they worked way better than the old Skilsaws, the Bosch ones were more comfortable, lighter, and more powerful. The only thing I saw wrong with them is the handles to adjust the blade depth had a tendency to break really easy. I bought a Bosch for myself a couple years ago and it's been working great. 

I'm not sure about Bosch now with all the rumors of them being bought out and making junk. I think if I were to buy another circular saw, I would buy the Makita, it looks pretty slick.


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## maninthesea

> Quote:
> Inner 10 I remember you said your lube oil seemed wrong.
> When I first looked through the sight glass I didn't see any oil, then I realized that it was really thick and grey in colour. I decided to read the manuel and it says they come lubed from the factory with "special milwaukee oil" and only service centres should change the oil. I then assumed that they must use some special synthetic oil that looks weird.
> 
> When I took it in for service (still haven't heared back BTW) the service guy commented on how the oil looked incorrect.
> 
> I guess it may have grenaded because they filled the fcukin gear box with saki or eggrolls or some sh!t instead of oil.


 
I did not recall a sight glass so when I checked I dont have one?? Maybe I have a diff model (6377) when I removed the plug I have brown oil. So I am guessing yours either had the wrong oil or it went silver from so much metal in it. I feel better about my saw now so thanks for the heads up and hope yours gets sorted out.
Cheers Jim


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## Inner10

> Maybe I have a diff model (6377)


Yeah I believe mine is a 6477 (newer model) like this http://www.milwaukeetool.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6477-20&CategoryName=SC:++Circular+Saws

In the sight glass you could see grey thick sludge peppered with a pile of metal chunks.

I'm sure it was just a fluke, I'm just routeinly discouraged with the level of service offered by my local tool stores. I pay top dollar for the local support and to support local business and I rarely expierience quality customer service...I think from now on I'm going to shop on price online. Why would I pay more localy when I'm not getting any value added service?


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## Michaeljp86

Dont the makitas not use any oil?


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## Inner10

> Dont the makitas not use any oil?


Yeah but most small hypoid gearboxes are sealed, they don't wear the same as worm gears. I think the hypoid is a more practical drive train for a application such as a little saw.


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## maninthesea

Yes inner I remember now I looked at that and decided I wanted the metal shoe. They can call it composite but I call it plastic! I would rather have deal with the extra weight. RE local vs online. I used to buy anything I could wait for online and assume there was no warrenty. Now that we have a HD on island and I know they will make a deal I consider buying local. Before everything was outrageous price and very little support. I am of the opinion that warrenties are not worth me keeping track of.


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## Inner10

See I though the same thing at first as I held up the Makita beside the Milwaukee. I though wow that plastic deck is pretty lame, but the plastic suited it well its ridgid enough for cutting, yet resiliant enough to now bend when it takes a dive, and it won't burr like metal either.

I'l really put it to the test when its -20 C in the winter though.


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## tccoggs

I have an older makita Hypoid which I break out for the tough jobs, but more and more these days I reach for my Ridgid Fuego 6 1/2 saw. Its very light, yet has plenty of power, I kinda wish it was left hand blade though.

I typically only break out the Mak for gang cutting plywood, or when I need the additional depth of cut.


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## maninthesea

> I'l really put it to the test when its -20 C in the winter though


Wont have that concern here. I does not even get below +20 C here in the "Winter":clap:

Cheers Jim


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## Hardly Working

Another vote for the Bosch. I prefer the the cast shoe over the stamped steel. Dropped it a few times and that SOB is still flat.


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## powderjester

We've got a mag 77, bosch and ridgid mag in the trailer. The ridgid is 7 years old and is the first saw out of the trailer every day. Doesn't jump, lots of power and pretty light. Looks like the new Makita is two pounds lighter yet though.


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## mike d.

My 77 is about 18 years old. I was almost going to sell it. Then I realized I had the last fully US made saw. I love the weight. I use it to my advantage. If I was ever in the market for another wormsaw, I would seriously consider Ridgid.


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