# Polyblend Caulk



## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

I tried some Polyblend Unsanded Caulk for the first time. I liked the color match, the way it tooled, etc. I caulked the inside corners of a ceramic tiled bathroom countertop. The gap was between a sixteenth and an eighth of an inch. After four days, the caulk is still very, very soft. Like somewhere between bubble gum and a marshmallow in softness. I peeled out a piece, and it is dried evenly throughout. You can imprint it with a fingernail very easily and the dent does NOT recover. The surfaces were completely dry of course, and I am in Southern California where there is no rain and little humidity so moisture is not a factor here. The question is this: Just how firm does this caulk ever get? Will it get a lot firmer in a week than it did in four days? Or is it just that this caulk just stays extremely soft? Thanks a lot.


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## BeforeChristoff (Nov 25, 2017)

What you see is what you got.


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

Thank you. That was a concise and thorough explanation. Could not have hoped for a better answer.


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

When I use this product its for micro beads and never had any issues. 
how big are the beads? 
Check the date on the tube.


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

Hi, the beads are about 1/8 inch, not very large. I bought this stuff at a local tile supplier. Looks like they go through a lot of it, especially since it was Bright White in color. So I am guessing it is fresh. The code on it is: 18063RD02002. I am guessing the first two digits are year, but don't know for sure. I hope the 2002 at the end is not the year !!!!!!


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

What makes you think because it's Bright White that they sell a lot of it? I don't think I've ever done a tile job with Bright White.


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## tang (Jan 5, 2009)

I've used sanded Polyblend many times. Mostly because its readily available in a bunch of colors. Never really liked it. My guess would be its old, or has been frozen. Bright white, you have many options. I would use something else. From my experience, Polyblend (sanded) shrinks, gets really hard over time, and stains.


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

Avenge, maybe it was a bad assumption. I just figured Bright White would be more commonly used than say "Mushroom" or "Ice Blue" or some of their more obscure colors. But maybe for those wanting white, they just use any brand. So I'm not sure on that.


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

Tang, interesting what you said. You said the sanded version gets really hard over time. I am using non-sanded but maybe the same? My original question was whether it ever gets beyond the bubble gum stage, and you seem to be saying it does given enough time? It's now been about a week, and the stuff has firmed up more, probably as firm as say Polyseamseal or the like. Seems like a long time, but at least it's firming up. I did take a chunk of it and threw it in a bucket of water. After two days completely submerged, it softened just a little but did not break down at all. After drying back out, it appears good. Just threw that in since I know a lot of people are leery about using it around tubs or showers.


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## tang (Jan 5, 2009)

It should set up in one day.IMO.. Whats the tube say about drying time. Is this in a shower with unsanded white grout?


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

The only area that I have used it on so far is a dry bathroom countertop. I was thinking of using it around a tub as well but have not so far. I am one of those silicone haters !!!! I have a couple of showers that I used Dap Kwik Seal Plus at the wall/floor junction about four years ago. They are used daily, never towel dried, and look as good as the day I put it down. But like I mentioned, I am in a very dry climate if that has any effect. So I think acrylic latex caulks are probably okay in a lot of situations, probably not all. Silicone is great, but once you dig and scrape out about a hundred feet of the stuff, you lose your taste for it pretty quick.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Acrylic latex caulk does not belong in showers. Ever.

My experiences with color-matched Poly-blend caulks has been generally piss-poor. The only thing going for it, is that it is color-matched. Beyond that, it has no real value in my opinion.

It hardens and cracks in dry areas, worse than any grout I've ever seen, and in wet areas, it washes out quickly.

You may not like removing silicone, but it's the proper material for sinks, tubs, and showers.


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

I can appreciate that, but how do you explain my success with the Kwik Seal Plus over four years? Maybe it is just a better acrylic than some others???


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

PootyTang said:


> I can appreciate that, but how do you explain my success with the Kwik Seal Plus over four years? Maybe it is just a better acrylic than some others???


Isn't Kwik-Seal a composite, with a high percentage of silicone?

I can't remember, now I have to look it up.


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## PootyTang (Sep 6, 2018)

Not sure either. I will look at it. Maybe that would explain it. I know it didn't tool very well, not very smooth so maybe not plain latex.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> Acrylic latex caulk does not belong in showers. Ever..........


All I've ever used.

Clear silicone where aluminum enclosures meets other substrates, and that's about it.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

I never use acrylic between tile and tubs or showers it's a f**kin dumb idea I only use silicone matched to the grout.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

"I never use acrylic between tile and tubs or showers it's a f**kin dumb idea I only use silicone matched to the grout."

You would not be allowed to install on my builds.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

SmallTownGuy said:


> "I never use acrylic between tile and tubs or showers it's a f**kin dumb idea I only use silicone matched to the grout."
> 
> You would not be allowed to install on my builds.


Why, because I'm using the proper caulk? Where do you get the notion that any water based caulk is sufficient in a tub or shower?

It would be the other way around, I would refuse to do your installs.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> Acrylic latex caulk does not belong in showers. Ever.
> 
> My experiences with color-matched Poly-blend caulks has been generally piss-poor. The only thing going for it, is that it is color-matched. Beyond that, it has no real value in my opinion.
> 
> ...



How about big stretch exterior? We buy it in clear & use paint to color match our smart siding. Has held up really well the last 3 years outside.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

avenge said:


> Why, because I'm using the proper caulk? Where do you get the notion that any water based caulk is sufficient in a tub or shower?
> 
> It would be the other way around, I would refuse to do your installs.



40 years of building new homes and standing behind the warranty is where.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

SmallTownGuy said:


> 40 years of building new homes and standing behind the warranty is where.


So they're calling you every time that water based caulking needs replacement due to premature failure because it definitely will. Just because you've been doing it for 40 years doesn't mean you're doing it right.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Polyseamseal tub and tile over silicone anyday for perimeter tubs...micro beads, no waffles :laughing:


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

avenge said:


> So they're calling you every time that water based caulking needs replacement due to premature failure because it definitely will. Just because you've been doing it for 40 years doesn't mean you're doing it right.


Actually, because I've been doing it for 40 years, I've 40 years experience learning what works and what does not. And its down the road, when warranty issues crop up, that makes me pay attention to failures and what causes them.

There are places silicone is suitable for. Others where siliconized acrylic is better. Others where synthetic rubber - like Lexel - may be the only solution.

Most importantly, I listen very closely to what my suppliers and installers tell me.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

PootyTang said:


> The only area that I have used it on so far is a dry bathroom countertop. I was thinking of using it around a tub as well but have not so far. I am one of those silicone haters !!!! I have a couple of showers that I used Dap Kwik Seal Plus at the wall/floor junction about four years ago. They are used daily, never towel dried, and look as good as the day I put it down. But like I mentioned, I am in a very dry climate if that has any effect. So I think acrylic latex caulks are probably okay in a lot of situations, probably not all. Silicone is great, but once you dig and scrape out about a hundred feet of the stuff, you lose your taste for it pretty quick.



If you don't want to use the silicone or other calking inside of showers or countertops... check the type of grout you use. I've been using the QuartzLock2 and I tape off my inside corners and grout them in like tooling caulking. It's a different touch to get used to but it works. The urethane in the grout dries it hard but keeps it pliable for the movement. Currently doing a bathroom for a customer and did their other shower 4 years ago. Checked all the grout and zero cracks... 
You can use the QL2 or Bostick version (same thing)


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

I have used ColorFast siliconized acrylic latex which matched TEC grout colors without problems


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

I have never gotten polyblend color matched white. They have been selling white caulking for while now. haha


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

pinwheel said:


> How about big stretch exterior? We buy it in clear & use paint to color match our smart siding. Has held up really well the last 3 years outside.


Big stretch is highly spoken of but I'm not fond of it didn't have good luck with it and that's inside. I almost exclusively use Quad on exteriors used it on my own smart siding.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

you can also use whatever grout you are using and mix it with a 2 part slow cure epoxy instead of water. That works very well. Tape on both sides first, apply, squirt with water, tool, pull tape.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Schulter corners, no caulk needed. 

Tom


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