# Drill bits for cabinet installation?



## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

I am frustrated lately with the drill bits I have been using for drilling between cabinet face frames when installing cabinets. I usually use an 11/64 bit through the one style and about 1/4" into the cabinet we are joining it to. But it seems that there is so much build up that I have to pull the bit out 2 or 3 times to unclog it. I have been using Dewalt and Vermont American bits. Also used the Hitatch ones. ( mostly HD and Lowes bought) 
Any suggestions for bits that don't clog up?


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Forstner Bit.......?


B,


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Pretty small hole, probably in pretty hard wood. Just where do you expect the debris to go? 

Try chucking up in a Hole Hawg & just lean on it...:laughing::laughing::whistling


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Forstner Bit.......? B,


Heck no, use a hole saw...:whistling:whistling:laughing:


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Use a countersink+bit for an impact drill  don't forget to thread your screw into some minwax :thumbup:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

YA,,,,OK Griz........:laughing: 

But seriously, 
what speed are you using to drill your pilot holes? that could cause some Jambing of material ..... 


Just a thought....:whistling

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Just use better screws and screw drilling that hole.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Just use a better screw:
http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/R4_1_2_information.htm


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

:laughing: At least I gave an example


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I didn't want to give it all up at once.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Tease!


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

I'm certain there are a number of guys that use the GRK screws or whatever & do not pre-drill a pilot hole.

There is absolutely no way in he!! I will fasten two face frames without a pilot hole. I don't care how often i have to pull the bit and clear debris.

Now if you're doing Tract work & no one gives a chit....:whistling

But try 'splaining why you split a face frame on a 100g worth of kitchen cabinets...:no:

You do that more than once you won't have to worry about doing it again. :whistling


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

The correct screw for the application won't split it.

try on scraps of different variety's.

Better then the dry wall screws in supposed 55k kitchen.......


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

ready......aim...............











B,


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The correct screw for the application won't split it.
> 
> try on scraps of different variety's.
> 
> Better then the dry wall screws in supposed 55k kitchen.......


Darcy, I have no doubt you can pull this off.

Never used drywall screws installing cabinets.

This is probably more the old dog new tricks thing...

I'm just not going to drive the screw w/o a pilot hole....into a high dollar cabinet...If you guys do it, more power to you...just not going to happen on my job...:thumbsup:


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## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

Are you guys using the trim head grk's for face frames? There's no way I'm taking a chance with the R4s


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

What was this post about again.....

B,


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

PrestigeR&D said:


> What was this post about again.....
> 
> B,


Ya, thought we were making s'mores......:laughing::whistling:thumbup:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

PrestigeR&D said:


> What was this post about again.....
> 
> B,


Maybe screwing and getting the smage out of the way:blink:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

But yea, I'll keep predrilling with the countersink on the bit for now:whistling


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

I've always liked the Milwaukee and Dewalt bits, dunno if they are better then the ones the OP is using though.

Also like the Cabinet Claws. :thumbup:


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

The best bit is a new bit, I bought many expensive bit sets over the years and have been nothing but disappointed. Don't waste your money on cobalt bits, just order a pack of brad point or hss jobbers from your local fastener store and throw then out as they dull.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

WildWill said:


> Cabinet Claws. :thumbup:


:blink:


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> :blink:


You don't like Cabinet Claws? I've always thought they were the best thing since sliced bread. :thumbsup:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Come on now DWB, even _*I*_ have the cabinet claw!


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## mattsk8 (Dec 6, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The correct screw for the application won't split it.
> 
> try on scraps of different variety's.
> 
> Better then the dry wall screws in supposed 55k kitchen.......


All I ever use is drywall screws on faceframes, I always predrill though. I'd like to use GRK's, just never have enough foresite to remember to get some!



angus242 said:


> Come on now DWB, even _*I*_ have the cabinet claw!


I don't have one of those but I should. One of those things I always forget about till I need it, then I make due w/ my clamps! Imagine it's a huge time saver.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I have seen the cab claw and like the idea. They are over 100 bucks a set at woodcrafters and then I don't think I need them that much:no: I don't do a lot of cabs and when I do they are cheapos and I don't take off the doors and for the claws you need the doors off, yea? So I just use the regular type for now.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

You old dogs. I got the claws for under $40. I also use cabinet screws without pilot holes.

:wheelchair:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

So are we using #6 or #8 to screw the face frames with?:blink:


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Why bother with screws....just use 1/4" lags, a impact driver & call it good...:thumbsup::laughing:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

I use these:


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

griz said:


> Why bother with screws....just use 1/4" lags, a impact driver & call it good...:thumbsup::laughing:


Griz, we should start Power Grabbing cabs together :laughing:


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Tech Dawg said:


> Griz, we should start Power Grabbing cabs together :laughing:


Power Grab em to the wall too! :thumbsup:


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Sorry, I'm with griz and I use grk's. Pilot hole. No way in hell am I taking that chance. 

I don't go through alot of bits. When they get dull, time for another. Buy in bulk if you have to. 

Maybe a wolfcraft(sp?) bit?


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## wbr (Feb 19, 2011)

I don't do a lot of kitchens.
Mostly stuff for stores (clothes racks,displays,checkout counters, etc)
But I use a tapered bit with countersink when screwing stuff,including face frames.


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## TIGHTER MITER (Jul 9, 2011)

Wow..so many people screwing around here!  I do appreciate the response though, don't get me wrong. I do not have any problem with screwing (ask my wife, I tell her I am the best all the time) as I said in my initial post it is just an issue with bits clogging up with debris. This is a problem with even brand new bits. My bits are always sharp or I ditch them (or they get the blue tape on them and become "probing "bits.)

I am mostly drilling into Maple, Oak or Poplar.
I use a 2-1/2" stainless screw between face frames.
I take cabinet doors off - always.
I use "quick grip" clamps (in addition to my hands of steel pinch grip!)
I do use a countersink bit, but usually after drilling pilot hole.
I do not use any wax- do not need it.
I use an impact driver (Makite these days) to drive screw.
And, I use Old Spice "fresh" deodorant.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

Skil Brand 100pc Drill bit set. You can get them at Lowes everynow and then on sale for 12.99 or regularly at Wal-Mart for 19.99. Go ahead, scoff at them being from Wally World, but they are some of the sharpest HSS bits I have used from a store. They blow the doors of the DeWalt Bits. Its not like normal kits either, where you only get one or two of a size. You get a butt load of the bits that I find I use and break/dull down the most. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_176028-353-..._mmc=aff_gan-_-k96812-_-GAN_1280231081-_-Lowe

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Skil-45102W-Drill-Bit-Set-100-Piece/15173812?findingMethod=rr


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

I just came across "montana bits" at menards the other day. Made in Montana, USA. I used their #6 countersink and haven't had any problems with it yet. It's not my favorite design on the countersink part, but my other ones snapped, so I needed another back up.

I also have a couple packs like TBF posted up. I have no complaints about them, and always take one to the site.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

This is how we screw around


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## mattsk8 (Dec 6, 2009)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> So are we using #6 or #8 to screw the face frames with?:blink:


I think drywall screws are #6 n that's what I use. They have nice threads and they're strong. GRK's would be better and maybe prettier, but I never remember to pick them up.

I did try those regular #6 wood screws once, those are pure trash; like they're made out of styrofoam.

For hanging cabinets, it's Fastcap all the way but make sure you have your 18v impact w/ you :thumbsup:


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## mattsk8 (Dec 6, 2009)

Gus Dering said:


> This is how we screw around
> 
> View attachment 61851
> 
> ...


The tapered drill bit w/ the countersink is the only way to fly!!


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I'll use a fuller countersink bit or a brad point bit. Fuller makes nice stuff.


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

The tapered bits are what I referred to as Woodcraft bits. Tapered with a countersink


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

KentWhitten said:


> The tapered bits are what I referred to as Woodcraft bits. Tapered with a countersink


Wolfcraft


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

http://www.wolfcraft.de/jcatalog_generated/en/products/product_groups/index.html

Awesome products


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

About the bit clogging.. every hole I've drilled into wood I would have to clean out the flutes every now and then..... It's just the nature of the bit and material...

Ive always used the make it snappy countersinks. There great IMO

They come in several sizes for say a #6 screw #8 and so on.

I always pre-drill holes for screws. It became a habit.. second nature now.

No mater what I'm doing. Even if Im using grks or spax screws. 

Way better results!!! The screw Dosent wonder and its a nice clean countersink.

I have a whole set of countersinks in one of those dewalt tough cases... I'll snap a pic when I go home.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

And here's a question for everyone. Has anyone used the mcfeelys "dry lube" square head screws???

http://www.mcfeelys.com/screwlist.aspx?sclass=FSL


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

TIGHTER MITER said:


> I am frustrated lately with the drill bits I have been using for drilling between cabinet face frames when installing cabinets. I usually use an 11/64 bit through the one style and about 1/4" into the cabinet we are joining it to. But it seems that there is so much build up that I have to pull the bit out 2 or 3 times to unclog it. I have been using Dewalt and Vermont American bits. Also used the Hitatch ones. ( mostly HD and Lowes bought)
> Any suggestions for bits that don't clog up?


You are really not going to find the bit you are looking for. Drill bits were designed to have the flutes fill up and then you need to remove the bit to empty them. I'm betting you are using a high speed metal bit and not a brad point designed for drilling wood.


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## blackbear (Feb 29, 2008)

rockler drill and drive kit & beeswax make a pretty good combo.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

Rich D. said:


> And here's a question for everyone. Has anyone used the mcfeelys "dry lube" square head screws???
> 
> http://www.mcfeelys.com/screwlist.aspx?sclass=FSL


The Amish used these screws in the last job I was on for both installtion and construction. They seemed like nice screws.


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Mike- said:


> Wolfcraft


That's what I said :whistling

I use that along with my Gremlin spray equipment :laughing:


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Here's the make it snappy brand countersinks.









Here is my case of countersinks.


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

KentWhitten said:


> That's what I said :whistling
> 
> I use that along with my Gremlin spray equipment :laughing:


Gotcha. They is good.


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