# Split-level HVAC syndrome



## ejleonard (Jun 17, 2008)

Aside from installing a zoning/stage furnance, anyone have any meaningful HVAC rememdies to help mitigate the split level syndrome for your typical 1970s slab under first level along and master over garage? Both are always 5-8+ deg cold differential from the rest of the house. 

While manipulating the furnance zone helps, its only a small benefit for a much larger energy problem - the uninsulated slab being the main culprit. 

Here are my questions --

Has anyone found a low profile slab insulation that can easily be retrofited under carpet aside from Radient heat that actually works without an air-gap? 

Would re-insulating the garage ceiling be worth the effort/expense for the master over? 

Anyone tried putting a small combo unit in the attic as an alternative to a two stage for the upper floors? Remember the furnace in these homes is anything but centrally located due to the half basement. It makes even a blower upgrade ineffective due to long bedroom runs and leaky 70s ductwork. 

Thanks for reading. Hopefully at least serves as a reminder to never buy a split.


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

If I am thinking of the layout you are discussing, the furnace is located in the laundry room? and the supplies are located in the ceilings for the bottom floor, and floor registers for the second floor? I like that layout, but thats me. 

Since you said that the furnace is not centrally located, where is it installed? Is the garage door insulated. That will make a difference. Does the garage have a second entry, and what type of door is that? (chincy hollow frame door or solid wood) If the ceiling is already insulated, I don't see a major benefit in re-insulating (unless its not insulated well). I would try to make sure that the garage is relatively tight. 

Adding a second furnace sure wouldn't hurt, especially if you intend to stay there for a long time. But I would try other measures first. 

I had a customer who purchased some type of insulant that was very thin, which would be considered low profile. He said it was made of a form of kev-lar. Honestly, I know nothing of the product, but the guy said it was great and expensive.

Hopefully the info I provided is of some use, but, I would want to hear other ideas as well

Good luck


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Split levels and two stories = stratification.
As soon as the blower cuts off the coolest 
air sinks to the lowest level, the warmest
rises to the upper level.
Run the blower on the "continuous" setting.
It really helps even things out.
Really doesn't cost any extra, and should
let the blower motor live longer.


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## ejleonard (Jun 17, 2008)

Thanks. I didn't think about letting the blower run. Great suggestion. 

I put new insulated garage doors in and the difference was negligable for the master. I also added a few inches of cellulose insulation in the attic to keep the heat air from raising out as fast. 

I really want to find a reasonable way to insulate the first level slab, hopefully without raising the floor too much. I may try raident but hate to address a pure insulation issue with a constant energy heat source. 

Thanks


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

neolitic said:


> Split levels and two stories = stratification.
> As soon as the blower cuts off the coolest
> air sinks to the lowest level, the warmest
> rises to the upper level.
> ...


I do the same thing Neo suggest espescially when humidity is high in the house as well


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## coolmen (Mar 25, 2006)

HAVE A nci CERTIFIED tech inspect equipment and ductwork


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