# Butt shims



## Mop in Hand (Feb 21, 2009)

I was wondering how many drywall contractors that use them for what they are called and designed for?


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2008)

Several variations on that. Butt-boards, cardboard shims, and some guys use 5' metal track. The effect is to hump the drywall in slightly at the joint so you get a flatter finish.


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## Mop in Hand (Feb 21, 2009)

Yes, I know what they are used for, I was just wondering how many drywall contractors actually use them for that purpose, or do most just flat tape the butt joint without the shims underneath on either side of studs?


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

We use them, and it makes a big diffrece, in the install, and taping. But we make our own, out of 1/2 osb and 1/8 hardboard.
Will continue to use them.


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## nwksremodeler (Aug 24, 2007)

after reading about butt boards on here and talking with AARC drywall and several others I was convinced to try them and I will continue to use them in the future. It took a bit of experimenting but with a little tweaking I was able to produce a very flat ceiling. I would give them two thumbs up:thumbup:


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## John1 (Nov 11, 2008)

*Aarc*

Can u tell me how u make the butt boards??

Thanks
John


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## BKFranks (Feb 19, 2008)

They sell cardboard drywall shims at HD. They're pretty cheap.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

do you shim all studs except at the butt joints or just the two studs on either side?


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

John1 said:


> Can u tell me how u make the butt boards??
> 
> Thanks
> John


 
Sure,
Rip plywood into the width that you want, 1/2" and 5/8 rock flex diffrent so you will have to take that into consideration.
We are now using 1/4" hardboard air stappled onto each side of the plywood.

They work really well, and when we finish them we run tape, 7" 10" and 12" and done....on knockdown ceilings we run tape 7" and 10" 
With both you only need to make one pass with your box's.

They work so well, we are in the final stages of patening them.


J


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## John1 (Nov 11, 2008)

*Aarc*

Thanks so very much!

Are you making them 47" long?? Also, how o the hardi strips?

John


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

no 48" for walls, and 54" for ceilings...the hard board is 1"*48"


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## Mop in Hand (Feb 21, 2009)

So, AARC you are talking about butt shims that are between the studs, meeting the butt joints in the middle of the studs attached to your job site shims, correct? Have you ever seen or heard of , or used placing 1/8 cardboard shims on the studs on both sides of the butt joint?


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## d's (Mar 16, 2008)

AARC - I hope you make lot's of money on your patent:clap:! Are you looking for product testers?

D's


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## d's (Mar 16, 2008)

Just found this link for what Jay's describing...

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/tips/invisible-drywall-butt-joints.aspx

D's


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

d's said:


> Just found this link for what Jay's describing...
> 
> http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/tips/invisible-drywall-butt-joints.aspx
> 
> D's


ah...now it all makes sense. very cool!!!


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

The problem with cardboard on the truss, is the fact that it makes the over all area wider to fill, yes it makes a resessed joint, but its 22.5" wide. you are still using the same amount of mud as normal coating, and coating just as much as normal.
With our butt splices, the recesed joint is approx 1.05" wide. and you coat it just like a bevel joint.

J


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

As for the link, above, its very simalar, but we found that 1/16" shim was not enough. and over 9" created a wider joint to fill....but the thought and proccess is the same...
For the cost of materials and time to make them, its well worth it.


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## CIS (Aug 11, 2008)

AARC Drywall said:


> The problem with cardboard on the truss, is the fact that it makes the over all area wider to fill, yes it makes a resessed joint, but its 22.5" wide. you are still using the same amount of mud as normal coating, and coating just as much as normal.
> With our butt splices, the recesed joint is approx 1.05" wide. and you coat it just like a bevel joint.
> 
> J


My name is Ralph Birchard and I run a small d/wall company in Cow-Town, AB.
This is a very interesting thread,...with a title "Butt Shims" is it any wonder? :w00t:
Anyway, I am looking to verify that the recessed joint is 1.05" wide?
Wouldn't the width need to be closer to 3" to give the tape a wide enough bevel to be seated lower than the rest of the d/wall?
thanks in advance,

Ralph


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

the joint will be recessed inward gradually over 10" where the center will be 1/4" deep. The best thing that you can do is make one and try it.


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