# Wafer screw or to punch lock crimp



## woodmagman (Feb 17, 2007)

A consensus needs to be made on whether crimping steel stud to the track is good enough or should it be screwed to the track with a wafer scew.


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## taper71 (Dec 5, 2006)

I was always taught to screw it, but I would like to know too


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## ukdrywall (Feb 21, 2007)

i only ever screw studs, or crimp them at door openings,


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

We crimp at any opening, but screw any wall studs.

However when we float studs we crimp them til' it is time to sheetrock.


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## woodmagman (Feb 17, 2007)

What is the logic of crimping the openings, does a crimp hold better in your opinion?


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

code requires screws here.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

woodmagman said:


> What is the logic of crimping the openings, does a crimp hold better in your opinion?


 
No, it's not that it holds better or worse...however, when it comes time to install the door or window, we screw the "clip" through the sheetrock into the tract and stud at the same time. So in essence they become one object when it is all complete. Than the clip gets covered by Cove Base.

As far as crimping the floaters, we do it so that they won't move around while we are working on the rest of the framing..when It comes time to sheetrock, we un-crimp it and let it float.


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## woodmagman (Feb 17, 2007)

Mud Master said:


> No, it's not that it holds better or worse...however, when it comes time to install the door or window, we screw the "clip" through the sheetrock into the tract and stud at the same time. So in essence they become one object when it is all complete. Than the clip gets covered by Cove Base.
> 
> As far as crimping the floaters, we do it so that they won't move around while we are working on the rest of the framing..when It comes time to sheetrock, we un-crimp it and let it float.


I am assuming that is for metal jambs. What would be the case for a wood jamb that did not have clips.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

woodmagman said:


> I am assuming that is for metal jambs. What would be the case for a wood jamb that did not have clips.


 

Yes, that is for metal jambs and hollow metal doors(styrofoam or cardboard). For a wood jamb I would definetly screw instead of crimp since you do not have anything that will bring them all togeather.

I have seen a couple guys before pre drill and counter sink through the wood jamb, screw the jamb to the tract and than putty and paint it. I have never tried that, but I only install metal and steel doors & frames. I guess that could work.


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## theworx (Dec 20, 2005)

woodmagman said:


> What is the logic of crimping the openings, does a crimp hold better in your opinion?


I always crimp door and window openings (screw all other studs). Not stronger, but doesn't bulge out the the drywall (wafer screws are almost an 1/8" - on two sides = 1/4")... Makes a mess of your drywall installing knock down metal frames (or even welded frames)... Scrapes the drywall like crazy forcing the frames in... Once the drywall is screwed to the framing it's solid as hell anyways... Just saves a bunch of patching after installing your frames!!!


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

From an electrician's standpoint, I appreciate when the field studs are wafer screwed. Nothing more frustrating than dislodging a mess of studs just trying to do your job with ordinary care.


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## woodmagman (Feb 17, 2007)

theworx said:


> I always crimp door and window openings (screw all other studs). Not stronger, but doesn't bulge out the the drywall (wafer screws are almost an 1/8" - on two sides = 1/4")... Makes a mess of your drywall installing knock down metal frames (or even welded frames)... Scrapes the drywall like crazy forcing the frames in... Once the drywall is screwed to the framing it's solid as hell anyways... Just saves a bunch of patching after installing your frames!!!


real good point thanks for that,,,,,,


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