# Proper fix for leaking metal roof



## tripster (Jun 30, 2007)

Hey guys. Searched the forum until my neck hurt but could not find to much help. Finishing a garage that has a metal roof. Roof is leaking from some of the seems. Is there something out there better than the buytrate tape for use on the seems? Also getting some condensation. I realize proper ventilation is required. I'm dealing with that. The metal was screw directly to 2x4 purlins with no felt or ice/water membrane. Any fixes without ripping it all off and starting over? Thought about spray foaming the back of the metal panels. 

Thanks guys.


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## bob_cntrctr (Jan 30, 2008)

I'm gonna guess you have ice dams. That's just about the only thing that will make metal roof leak at the seams.

I would clear off the roof, remove the screws just along the seams, put in a bead of caulking where the sheets overlap, and screw it back down. Regular silicone won't work in your current temperatures, so you'll need a caulk specifically capable of being applied in winter temps. In your neck of the woods, that would be something like Mulco Supra.


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## tripster (Jun 30, 2007)

Thanks for the reply Bob. I guess first challenge is getting the snow, and ice off of there. Does anyone no the proper method for metal roofing from the trusses/rafters up. Seems like there are many opinions.


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## Red Adobe (Jul 26, 2008)

your wasting time and money NOT using "sticky tape brand" buytl, less then $4 a 50 ft roll. its very workable in cold weather and has very good adheasion and sealing. most cualkings will void warrenty and are just a bad idea

We have some porches framed at 1:10 pith using this tape and no leakage


Metal can be done on open framing but in colder wetter climates its recomended to use a layer of chicken wire and roll insulation with a heavy plastic vapor barrier before attacking the panels.

For your delema spray foam should stop the condensation problems just make sure you have it watertight first.


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## 4 seasons (Jan 4, 2010)

I second the use of sticky tape, you can use it at every seam and transition area. Just apply it to a dry surface.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Go with the sticky tape better then caulk.


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## tripster (Jun 30, 2007)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will use the tape on the seams, and new screws/seals. I have decided to put an underlayment under the metal. Hence the use of the word "under" in underlayment

Checked out the Typar site. They have a product called Typar Surround SR. Like the original Typar with a different weave. It is for use on roofs. Also not slippery like normal building wrap.

I'll post an update once complete.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Check out some of the pole barn sites. They make a poly roll that is used for putting down first over the purlins then metal on top to stop the condensation.


BTW, what is the pitch on your roof?


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## tripster (Jun 30, 2007)

About 4/12


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## LCG (May 30, 2011)

The myth of metal. It's watertoght!. Yeah right. Sounds like you may have a handle on it in some regard. Use the butyl tape and stitch your seams every 12". New screws in the feild. You MUST have top and bottom Closers. These are foam things that go under the metal at the eves, valleys, and the top of the metal on the ridge. 

My philosophy is simple. NEVER trust the roof covering for water tightness. Its simple a peice of trim as far as i'm concerned.


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## RoofSales (Dec 7, 2011)

Can you post any pictures of the roof?

Are the leaks coming in along the vertical or horizontal seams (or both)?

What do you think the issue is with the seams?

Is this a standing seam seam roof or another profile?


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## roof-lover (Sep 19, 2008)

We need to know which metal profile before anyone can give an educated answer.


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## RoofSales (Dec 7, 2011)

roof-lover said:


> We need to know which metal profile before anyone can give an educated answer.


Exactly. If you don't know the profile type just send a few pictures of the panel in question.


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