# radius cutting



## concrete life (Feb 24, 2010)

im trying to find the best way to cut big radiuses on bandsaw (100 foot +)im looking at buying bandsaw .wondering if there are any product sugestion. layout of of radius cuts,besides making a table 100 foot long with radius point. ive heard there is a way to do big radiuses with a type of pin system on a smaller table.im usally cutting radius in 4x4,4x6,2x6 or doubled up plywood.any suggestions or knowledge would be helpful.


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

why not lay it out, use a string tied to the centerpoint. Mark it and cut with a hand held saw?

I guess the question doesn't give me a good mental picture of what your trying to accomplish


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

There are a couple of ways. IMO, the easiest is to take a 100' steel tape measure out on a quiet dead end road and quickly lay it out there.

If you have excel, here's a calculator.

If you are good at trig, you can easily figure it out, but it will take time. If you don't know trig....well, I would just confuse the hell out of you.

Do you have a CAD program? You could lay it out on that also rather easy, but it will take a little time and effort.


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## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

If you don't need it to be the exact radius, but just a pleasing curve instead, you could bend a piece of flexible hardwood to act as a saw guide for cutting a nice clean curved cut, using a circ saw. See the 15th + pics on this page, 
http://woodsshop.com/Gazebo_Kits/How_Build_Gazebo/How_To_Build_Gazebo.htm 
the hardwood is the gray piece. Make sure you continue the bent guide's curve around past your actual end points so the curve carries thru.

If it needs to be the exact radius, you could plot out the points with cad and bend the guide to them .. get pretty close anyway. 

We might have other ideas if we know what you're actually making. How long is the piece?


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## concrete life (Feb 24, 2010)

scrapecc said:


> why not lay it out, use a string tied to the centerpoint. Mark it and cut with a hand held saw?
> 
> I guess the question doesn't give me a good mental picture of what your trying to accomplish


 
I do that steel tape thing from a center point now and cut by hand with a templet and skill saw.im looking at needing 1700 pieces at 8 foot long with radius cut.thats why i was thinking industrial bandsaw with guide on a smaller table.i need efficient mass production.it would take to long with skill saw


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

concrete life said:


> I do that steel tape thing from a center point now and cut by hand with a templet and skill saw.im looking at needing 1700 pieces at 8 foot long with radius cut.thats why i was thinking industrial bandsaw with guide on a smaller table.i need efficient mass production.it would take to long with skill saw


I have cut many radius' and never used a bandsaw. Bandsaw would be more exact if this was for a trim application. I doubt with a 100' radius that cutting with circular saw would be very slow. The saw will not bind much cutting that slight of a radius. I have seen attempted straight cuts that were curved that much.


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## Rockwood (Dec 1, 2008)

I agree with Warren a 100ft radius is a very slight radius and could be cut with a circular saw without binding. What kind of project is this?:blink:


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

what thickness is the material, if your just cutting plywood or something you could stack them. Have a template made out of material of your choice to mark them. And just cut them with a skill saw, 1700 of them, even with a band saw thats gonna take a while. I would also check into water jets. Or some one lookin for some work who has a router. That would go super quick!!! 

If I were going to use a band saw, I would pick one up that was capible of cutting a thick amound of material. then I would build a table that had ball bearing style rollers on the top of it. (If I needed to do a bunch, and wanted to spend some money. Just google ball bearing rollers. That should make a nice table that will allow a full sheet of plywood to roll around. Build that right and you should be able to clamp several sheets together and still be able to roll it around.:thumbsup:


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## Carpenter Wayne (Dec 21, 2009)

framerman said:


> There are a couple of ways. IMO, the easiest is to take a 100' steel tape measure out on a quiet dead end road and quickly lay it out there.


Exactly!

Med. to large Parking lots work really well too


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## concrete life (Feb 24, 2010)

Rockwood said:


> I agree with Warren a 100ft radius is a very slight radius and could be cut with a circular saw without binding. What kind of project is this?:blink:


 
poured in place concrete walls, gang style,2 foot to 3 foot thick,35 foot tall,its for a waiste water treatment plant.friggin huge.my cad program says its about a 2 inch bow over 8 foot span.oh yeah,and they want to pour all at once in 4 foot lifts


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

Well that made the Carpenter's forum go quiet for a while.:laughing:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Could this help cutting with a circular saw?

http://www.arcusblade.com/woodsystem.html


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Information???*

I think if we had more information on "why" and "what" he is constructing that would be of great help -I think it was framer dude that suggested the CAD solution-that would be the easiest method, slap a grid on the material in cad, if 4x8 material ,don't know, just guessing (CAD) transfer your measurements at specific points from the CAD layout on your material and connect your points- pretty simple,fairly accurate, and would save you a lot of unnecessary labor in layout, and depending on the material- you would definitely be able to use a circular saw with this large of a radius ,, but there is not enough INFO-- can you elaborate?
Brian


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

scrapecc said:


> what thickness is the material, if your just cutting plywood or something you could stack them. Have a template made out of material of your choice to mark them. And just cut them with a skill saw, 1700 of them, even with a band saw thats gonna take a while. I would also check into water jets. Or some one lookin for some work who has a router. That would go super quick!!!
> 
> *If I were going to use a band saw, I would pick one up that was capible of cutting a thick amound of material. then I would build a table that had ball bearing style rollers on the top of it. (If I needed to do a bunch, and wanted to spend some money. Just google ball bearing rollers. That should make a nice table that will allow a full sheet of plywood to roll around. Build that right and you should be able to clamp several sheets together and still be able to roll it around.:thumbsup:*





No offense to you, but I can tell you this is realistically not going to happen. He would have to have a BS that had a 60" throat to truly cut out a perfect circle - not going to happen. You would have to build a massive turret lathe base principle at a massive 95' x 95' ,can not but up to the BS table, a center point assembly, massive strapping on the face to join the material and 10,000 recessed ball bearings on the field of the table to glide the massive structure. I don't think so-not cost prohibitive and unrealistic. 
Brian


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> No offense to you, but I can tell you this is realistically not going to happen. He would have to have a BS that had a 60" throat to truly cut out a perfect circle - not going to happen.


Think outside the throat. :thumbsup:

First the exercise is to cut an arc, not a circle. Picture a table mostly in front of the blade, with 2-3 pins (or bearings, if you want to get fancy) that your template piece can ride against.

Fasten your raw stock to the top of the template and go to town.


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Maybe you have checked in on this, but have you thought about looking at symons or any other systems? They make forms that sound like they would fit your application. 

Also, if it were me, I would check into how much it would cost to do it out of steel. A metal shop shouldn't charge that much to roll that radius into angle iron to back the face of a form. Just a thought.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*write,write,write,*



Tinstaafl said:


> Think outside the throat. :thumbsup:
> 
> First the exercise is to cut an arc, not a circle. Picture a table mostly in front of the blade, with 2-3 pins (or bearings, if you want to get fancy) that your template piece can ride against.
> 
> Fasten your raw stock to the top of the template and go to town.


Your correct ,my appologies,, I misread- what else is new, sooooooooory:thumbsup: he still maybe better off transfering from Cad rather than creating a huge monstrocity just for this,,,- JMO 
thanks
Brian


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## billy d (Mar 12, 2008)

Tin has it right with the template and the pins and a table on the exit side of the BS so the template is bearing against the pins from start to finish.
If your surprised that they want it poured in one go then maybe Scrapecc has it right on looking into a system.The one that comes to mind is Peri I know they hire their form work out so it might be worth while just giving them a bell to see what it costs.
In the link I've posted you can see what their products look like.O.K I know its all in German but in pic No 7 you can see the size of the turnbuckle they use to get the Radi. Google them I Know they are in the US.
Another name is Doka also worth a try the one's I have used is Wenzal bit I don't think they are in the US. http://www.peri.de/ww/de/produkte.c...ID/23/imgpath/3_10_grv_titel.jpg/app_id/2.cfm


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well, Are you refering to somthing like this - http://www.contractortalk.com/f48/radius-concrete-forms-pics-37295/


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## Carpenter Wayne (Dec 21, 2009)

Pound a nail in a parking lot (black top) measure/pull your tape out 100' - lay your (plywood?) 4x8 sheet (or 20 sheets all butted together if need be) down and swing the arc of the radius thru/across the plywood using the tape measure (dummy end hooked to the nail) and a pencil (at the 100' mark on the tape) holding it at 90" to your work and then go cut it on your saw - simple geometry dude - you don't need cad programs and/or pins & template crap or any other horse S*** these guys are talking about here - "carpentry 301 dude" - 3rd yr apprentice's know this stuff - that's how we do it in the field. Will take you 10 mins total and it's a no brainer.

Works the same on sheet metal with a scratch awl. Also - this will work for any sort of "template" that you need for forms or whatever.

Do as you will though! :whistling


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Carpenter Wayne said:


> simple geometry dude - you don't need cad programs and/or pins & template crap or any other horse S*** these guys are talking about here - "carpentry 301 dude" - 3rd yr apprentice's know this stuff - that's how we do it in the field. Will take you 10 mins total and it's a no brainer.


Yo, dude. 1700 pieces?!? The church elders are going to be kicking your butt out of there long before you're done. :laughing:

I'll go along with the parking lot to make a template, but ideally you'd turn these things out in the comfort of your shop. And no matter where you're doing the cutting, templates and pins will speed up production tremendously. :thumbsup:


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## Carpenter Wayne (Dec 21, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Yo, dude. 1700 pieces?!? The church elders are going to be kicking your butt out of there long before you're done. :laughing:
> 
> I'll go along with the parking lot to make a template, but ideally you'd turn these things out in the comfort of your shop. And no matter where you're doing the cutting, templates and pins will speed up production tremendously. :thumbsup:


So then you make *1* freekin template on a 4x8 piece and then scribe/transfer it onto the other 1699 pieces Einstein -

Why take the EXTRA time to build a template WITH pins?? You don't need that BS and anyone that works in the feild as a "carpenter" knows this - so - I'm taking a shot in the dark here and guessing that's not YOU and that you really don't know what you're talking about but WISH you did, and somehow you're trying to make yourself look good on here to feed your own "ego" by trying to make others look bad who OBVIOUSLY know MORE/have better/quicker methods than YOU do??


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Carpenter Wayne said:


> Why take the EXTRA time to build a template WITH pins?? You don't need that BS and anyone that works in the feild as a "carpenter" knows this - so - I'm taking a shot in the dark here and guessing that's not YOU??


Maybe you should take the _time_ to read a bit more carefully about how the pins are to be used. I'm surprised that a "real" carpenter needs to have this explained.

The pins are not applied to the template. They are installed in the saw table so that you can run the template up against them, and _they_ guide the movement of the workpiece, rather than you having to (a) draw a line, and (b) carefully follow that line by eye. All of which takes extra time.

Nah, I'm no carpenter. But I play one on the internet sometimes. :thumbsup:


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## Carpenter Wayne (Dec 21, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Maybe you should take the _time_ to read a bit more carefully about how the pins are to be used. I'm surprised that a "real" carpenter needs to have this explained.
> 
> The pins are not applied to the template. They are installed in the saw table so that you can run the template up against them, and _they_ guide the movement of the workpiece, rather than you having to (a) draw a line, and (b) carefully follow that line by eye. All of which takes extra time.
> 
> Nah, I'm no carpenter. But I play one on the internet sometimes. :thumbsup:


You're talking about a 100' radius - you're not going to "pin" that on a table saw/band saw no matter how hard you try (not unless you have a table approx. 50x50 ft sq to run that slight of a radius on) -

go ahead - try it once and see how that works for you - by then I'll have the entire pile cut and ready for installation.

P.S.

I believe you when you say - "I play a carpenter on the internet sometimes"


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Carpenter Wayne said:


> You're talking about a 100' radius - you're not going to "pin" that on a table saw/band saw no matter how hard you try (not unless you have a table approx. 50x50 ft sq to run that slight of a radius on) -
> 
> go ahead - try it once and see how that works for you - by then I'll have the entire pile cut and ready for installation.


Look, I'm not interested in a pissing match. The idea here is to do some brainstorming and help the OP out.

While pinning isn't always the optimum solution, it can and does work. You could also make an "outside" template to run a sidewinder against. You could go back to the parking lot and tie a string to your sidewinder, and have _that_ guide the cut.

But trying to mass-produce over a thousand identical pieces by manually guiding a saw (or the workpiece) to follow a traced line is most definitely not the most efficient way to get the job done.


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## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2010)

Carpenter Wayne said:


> You're talking about a 100' radius - you're not going to "pin" that on a table saw/band saw no matter how hard you try (not unless you have a table approx. 50x50 ft sq to run that slight of a radius on) -
> 
> go ahead - try it once and see how that works for you - by then I'll have the entire pile cut and ready for installation.
> 
> ...


 Man you guys should re read what the guy is cutting there only 8 ft long pieces with a 100 ft radius. That just barely an arc in 8 ft. Easily done with a skillsaw faster than a band saw.


To the op check with procter forms they rent form for columns and tanks. Id like to see the print on the tank you shouldnt need to cut radius in any of your form. Ive worked around some large concrete tank forming before and there where NO radius cut forms. Maybe bit of a little here huh. Take a pic of the print and I could help you a little more on how to form it up.


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## billy d (Mar 12, 2008)

Lets chill out guys and look at this logically the only information that we have comes in post No10 in which the op states that he is trying to build a wall 36' high by 3' thick.Well for guys in the field I would like to know how many of you have built a wall this size?
Not a lot I'd say,so if you want to get an idea of this size look at the 1st pic in the link I posted.It's more than twice the hight and more than twice dia thats one hell of a wall.So this IJMO and I could be way out but I dont think I'm, the op is not trying to build a platform this size.
He gives the diamentions because he wants to form his waling's and these would be cut as cords of 8' span and 2" rise, to mark this out is not 3rd year apprentice stuff but 1st year apprentice stuff.If you want to form a diameter of 200' in the field and then scribe it out go ahead.A production method would be to do this in the shop with 8' in front of the saw and 8'behind it.but then again what do I know?
I know enough that my pants would go brown with the thought of the size of these walls
As a professional I would be calling in other professional to hire me the formwork(shutters)and sleep soundly in my bed. billy


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

You could do a 100' radius on a 2" x 8' long pc of stock. It only has a deflection of 1 5/8" over the 8' span.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

I calculate the arc height of about 15/16ths of an inch over 96 inches. Not much curve to that. 

A skilsaw and a bottle of whiskey should be enough to getter dun...


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

With your 1700 pieces needed I'm guessing your using them as horizontal strongbacks and not walers right? There is roughly 628 LF of inside wall, and 647' or so more of outside wall. so 1700 * 8' = 13600lf of horizontal strongbacks. Gives ya about 10 for each side of the wall. That means you need inside and outside archs and a bandsaw could do both pretty easily in 4x material. Just a matter of how long it would take. May want to look into some of the rougher blades for a bandsaw that'll gnaw through the wood quicker.

I think the waterjet idea maybe cheaper if you can outsource it. May want to look into getting 4or6x8 lumber also and cutting the inside and outside archs at the same time. Saves alot of cuts.


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

Holy Sheet, I just calcd' out around 2050yards of mud, must be nice. Is the project in cali? Even if you guys dump 20+ trucks an hour with a couple pumps, it'll still take 10hours . Good luck.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Have you considered these,*

Instead of going through all the hassle of trying to make radius forms couldn't you use this application???? 
Brian


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

I just can't believe some ppl are still thinking a skill saw. Even if you could do one every 2 min which is doubtful thats still almost 57 hours. And thats if you can put the sheet down, cut it, and move it for the next sheet in 2 min. That isn't gonna happen!


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

How do you plan on doing it. Crossing your arms and blinking your eyes?

You will still have to move from sheet to sheet to do it. Even if you are doing multiple sheets at a time you are still gonna have to move them around.

What is _your_ plan?


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Leo G said:


> How do you plan on doing it. Crossing your arms and blinking your eyes?
> 
> You will still have to move from sheet to sheet to do it. Even if you are doing multiple sheets at a time you are still gonna have to move them around.
> 
> What is _your_ plan?


Make a jig so I didn't have to keep my eye on a line to cut. Also use a saw that has more power than a skill saw to cut through the stuff in a hurry. 

Plus with a jig and a powerful saw, you get precise repeated cuts fast!!!!!

Plus the op said something about 2x6 and 2x4 material. double that up on a skill saw. But hey maybe you guys are running a 10 inch bladed skill saw or something.


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Oh wait just went back and read the first post. You tell me Leo how your gonna cut a arc like that in a 4x4 with a skill saw with any kind of speed!!!!!!!


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I wasn't the one suggesting a skill saw. If you had to cut 4x4 stock you would have to use band saw. Even though the curve is slight it is enough to bid the blade on lets say the Makita 16" circular saw.


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Well I wasn't trying to get into a pissing match. But I did notice one guy trying to insult another guys intelligence a few posts back. And to me that guy is as closed minded as they get. 

I wish more of my competitors were like him. Cause they run things about as smooth as oatmeal. Nice and lumpy.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Ok Guys*

Call me slow whited- thats fine, but I still am not sure why he is not using radius forms to create the wall. --- The tech and tools are already out there,,, why would you spend all this time trying to reinvent the wheel ,,,, am I missing somthing,,BE NICE-:laughing:


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Prestige, you were not the guy I was talking about. Also you didn't insult anybody. I was talking about the guy talking trash to Tin. He just seemed immature to me.

And your right. To the OP, have you checked with any form rental places? it may be cheaper to do that also. The forms have been built already. If You were in Chicago I know symons would rent them to you. That may be a cheaper alternative.


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

There could be many reasons why not to use a designed system. If he's doing only one wall making them could be much less cost. Designed systems aren't cheap, I doubt gates is going to roll you a 200' diameter arch in 13,000LF of perforated tube steel and not make you buy it all. It's going to take at least 2-3 weeks to build and erect these forms anyway, so one guy cutting strong backs for 2 weeks, 80hrs, is a drop in the bucket. Plus there are other things to consider as far as ties go, water treatment plants are finicky projects.

I don't know about you guys, but if it's going to cost me the same vs. steel, and not push out my schedule, I'd rather keep my carpenters busy then some cad guy running 10 robots in a factory somewhere.... No offense intended.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*No- I know scrapecc,*



scrapecc said:


> Prestige, you were not the guy I was talking about. Also you didn't insult anybody. I was talking about the guy talking trash to Tin. He just seemed immature to me.
> 
> And your right. To the OP, have you checked with any form rental places? it may be cheaper to do that also. The forms have been built already. If You were in Chicago I know symons would rent them to you. That may be a cheaper alternative.


 
I was insulting myself-:laughing::laughing:, I am not a concrete contractor- period , but to go to such extremes when the technology is already out there-?????????? Time,,,material,,,, labor,,,, money,,, - you know what I mean- there has to be a better alternative- I agree with you 100% --rent it- less headaches and it would be designed for this application- but- as you know,,, tons of opinions and suggestions on CT- it's all good:thumbsup:
Brian


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

If you look at those forms they are adjustable. you don't need to bend steel to make them work.

Sometimes it's cheaper to rent than build something from scratch. Why would they produce specialized equipment if it wasn't needed. 

I am a great metal fabricator, does that mean I am going to try to build a bobcat from scratch? Its just an option to look at as far as total cost vs time. I know there are times when I would like to spend my time where it is going to be the most profitable. 

If you were going to pour a basement would you try to build all the forms yourself? And if you were going to do so, wouldn't you make sure that it was worth doing so?


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

And yes prestige, your right. The op is the only one that knows what is gonna work for him. :thumbsup:


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## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2010)

What i said last night
*Man you guys should re read what the guy is cutting there only 8 ft long pieces with a 100 ft radius. That just barely an arc in 8 ft. Easily done with a skillsaw faster than a band saw.*

What i meant to say

Whoops must of had a whiskey last night.:laughing: Buy easily done with a skillsaw i was talking about the op cutting plywood as stated and i meant faster WITH a band saw and jig. If you go to http://www.timbertools.com/Products/Dario-SN33-wood-bandsaw.html watch the video, pretty impressive saw but very costly. But man does he whip out some lumber. Before i got an oliver band saw i came up with mounting casters on a band saw to move around the workpiece for corbels and decorative beam ends. 

You could rig what you need up with a jig and be super fast no need to have a caster set up as your cutting 4x4 and 4x6 jig it and rip it. I still would check on rented still forms way faster easier and safer to use.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

Just like some others have said just go with a modular form system like Dokahttp://www.doka.com/doka/en_global/products/wall/timberbeam/circular_h20/index.php
But I am pretty sure unless you’re using some special mix that you will need to have some accelerater add mix in your mix design or you will have to much liquid head on that pour.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

Elyrain said:


> Holy Sheet, I just calcd' out around 2050yards of mud, must be nice. Is the project in cali? Even if you guys dump 20+ trucks an hour with a couple pumps, it'll still take 10hours . Good luck.


Maybee i am off he said 100'Dx35'Hx2'-3'T(2'6" Avg) =314'1 15/16"x35'x2'6"=1018CY


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

Elyrain said:


> There could be many reasons why not to use a designed system. If he's doing only one wall making them could be much less cost. Designed systems aren't cheap, I doubt gates is going to roll you a 200' diameter arch in 13,000LF of perforated tube steel and not make you buy it all. It's going to take at least 2-3 weeks to build and erect these forms anyway, so one guy cutting strong backs for 2 weeks, 80hrs, is a drop in the bucket. Plus there are other things to consider as far as ties go, water treatment plants are finicky projects.
> 
> I don't know about you guys, but if it's going to cost me the same vs. steel, and not push out my schedule, I'd rather keep my carpenters busy then some cad guy running 10 robots in a factory somewhere.... No offense intended.


Based on my Calculations the job price for that wall should be about1,018,000.00 Labor & Material. Form rental should cost under 100,000.00 concrete about 102,000.00 still have to add rebar i dont know how many pounds per SF and Labor I think that the renatl of the form will not trow his budget. ther should be at leat 10% + 10% P%O on this job. Maybee I am wrong.


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

This thread is full of non readers. First off the OP said 100' radius. So double that # you got there Nac. 

Second, Scrape, those "adjustable" strongbacks are rolled to the proper arc first, read the pdf posted. The adjusters don't change the arch much if any.

Third, he won't need an add mixture because they will need 3-4 pumps and even pumping at a normal rate of 5 concrete trucks an hour(9.5yards per truck) per pump. it'll still take 10 hours to pour. If each pump makes a 4' lift that is 150' long or so, by the time it come back to do the next lift the first 4' are set already.


The problem isn't renting an circular gang forming system. The problem is renting a 200' diameter system. if it was anythign less then 100' it would probably be easy and cheap to rent. Because they are much more common. But like I said, if they have to build it for you, they'll charge ya 2/3 of the cost just to rent for half a year or so. So this guy is just exploring his options.


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Elyrain said:


> This thread is full of non readers. First off the OP said 100' radius. So double that # you got there Nac.
> 
> Second, Scrape, those "adjustable" strongbacks are rolled to the proper arc first, read the pdf posted. The adjusters don't change the arch much if any.
> 
> ...


 There is such a small radius I would have figured the adjusters could make it happen. They put them on there for a reason. If they didn't change the radius they wouldn't do anything. 

Also, my uncle just supered a project for LNG tanks. They were a bit bigger than this one. 250 diameter, 150 feet high. The project was in Louisiana I believe. I know they used a form system. I think is was PERI climbing system.


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## Elyrain (Dec 17, 2007)

scrapecc said:


> There is such a small radius I would have figured the adjusters could make it happen. They put them on there for a reason. If they didn't change the radius they wouldn't do anything.
> 
> Also, my uncle just supered a project for LNG tanks. They were a bit bigger than this one. 250 diameter, 150 feet high. The project was in Louisiana I believe. I know they used a form system. I think is was PERI climbing system.


If I remember correctly, it's been a while since I've seen the gates system, it only adjusts where each strong back attaches to the next, like a hinge point. Then you can suck each panel to the next using the bolts. You also use them to adjust for level and plum of the panel your setting.

PERI makes some nice stuff, but again, it isn't cheap.


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## scrapecc (May 11, 2009)

Nothing of that size is cheap. And I could be wrong about how the gates system works. The diagram shows the adjuster mounted in the center of the steel tubing. I would have to see it in person. 

But now I have a good conversation to speak to my uncle about next time I talk to him. Either way, serious concrete being poured. I hope it goes well for the op!

Also It says his trade is concrete formwork, so maybe he is just building a form set for someone else to pour the project. I guess my idiot ass didn't ask him.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

Elyrain said:


> This thread is full of non readers. First off the OP said 100' radius. So double that # you got there Nac.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes sorry your right 100' Radius 200' Diameter yes 2,036CY of concrete just doubled the price of the job.
Some pump can pump up th 260CY/ Hr but the problem is the concrete trucks can't keep up unless your runing more than one plant and pumping at night to avoid traffic.
The Doka system is fully adjustable and made of a grid system so it is a stock unit and they have a branch in LA.


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## concrete life (Feb 24, 2010)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Call me slow whited- thats fine, but I still am not sure why he is not using radius forms to create the wall. --- The tech and tools are already out there,,, why would you spend all this time trying to reinvent the wheel ,,,, am I missing somthing,,BE NICE-:laughing:


 
boy did i start a mess,rental systems...ive been using systems for bout 13 years some are good most are bad because of the return process.to many times ive got a cleanup charge or damage.my guys are hard on stuff,cant fire them all. lost pieces is another problem.im using a system now from atlas.its radius wall 18 foot tall.the company sends me all these parts and pieces for me to put together.i look at all this stuff and think why cant i do this my self.so thats what started this mess.the atlas system is pretty much alot of 4x6 with radius cut out of one side these are for horizontal studs.then a verticl strong back attaches to that.oh yea the radius cuts they did are crap-ola,very wavy and inconsistant.for the money im spending i think i could do better myself.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

I know waht you mean about all the extra charges. That is something you need to square away with your salesman before you rent, a lot of times they will wave to cleaning charge if you take about it before but lost parts are always a problem so you have to saty on top of it. The atlas system i have never used but have used Doka straight form work and it is great onlt 2ties and 2 clamps per form so a lot les to lose. I have never used ther circuler system before but seems about the samee just with ajustable turnbucles to get the radius you need. I know they will crete free shop drawings and panel list for you . I lloks like a short waler and no strong backs just props.


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## concrete life (Feb 24, 2010)

Nac said:


> I know waht you mean about all the extra charges. That is something you need to square away with your salesman before you rent, a lot of times they will wave to cleaning charge if you take about it before but lost parts are always a problem so you have to saty on top of it. The atlas system i have never used but have used Doka straight form work and it is great onlt 2ties and 2 clamps per form so a lot les to lose. I have never used ther circuler system before but seems about the samee just with ajustable turnbucles to get the radius you need. I know they will crete free shop drawings and panel list for you . I lloks like a short waler and no strong backs just props.


 
i just always get in trouble with rental companies.its like there trying to screw you.if my guys were renting it they would have more care but its not theres so they dont care.you know what i mean...thanks


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## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

This might be a solution, http://frontlineengineering.com.au/ a bandsaw contour cutting device. Never used it myself yet, but it looks like you can make a template, and push your stock thru riding on the template. Click that "find out more" and there's a video link. 

still alot of work for the amount you're talking about! I was going to say call them and get some more Info but I see they're in Australia ..


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## FramingPro (Jan 31, 2010)

Leo G said:


> You could do a 100' radius on a 2" x 8' long pc of stock. It only has a deflection of 1 5/8" over the 8' span.


that would give you a 60' radius..


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## FramingPro (Jan 31, 2010)

jlhaslip said:


> i calculate the arc height of about 15/16ths of an inch over 96 inches. Not much curve to that.
> 
> A skilsaw and a bottle of whiskey should be enough to getter dun...


102'-5 17/64"


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

*circles*

Years ago (maybe 10 ) i saw a add in either FINE HOME BUILDING or JLC for a 7.25 circular saw blade that cut real tight curves. Wanted to buy one but never did.


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