# Repainting interior block walls - Drylok?



## CarrPainting (Jun 29, 2010)

I now have two seprate jobs that came in where the HO wants the block walls in their basements painted. One leaks, the other doesnt.

What should I use? 

First the wet one: He called me wanting me to sandblast the walls in his basement, and repaint the walls (after talking him out of this idea now what? lol)

For the record, I have done basement sandblasting of fireplaces and even with cases of duct tape, rolls of plastic, and tons of prep, that dust just seems to get EVERYWHERE. Also, given that I am not insured for sandblasting... and, my air compressor used for such is completely winterized and covered... :clap:

He said he used Drylok on the walls before but after about 5years they began to bubble... not sure what to tell this guy, to me sounds like he has bigger problems than paint. :blink:


Ok, the dry guy with the packed basement; he lives on the top of a hill and wants his baby blue walls to be white. Can I use drylok directly over the blue? Or, should I prime the walls first with Gripper, and then use a latex paint from Glidden over the top?


----------



## briancreary (Feb 10, 2010)

*Uh oh*

He has a bigger problem. 

As far as Drylok goes, it has a prep solution that they sell with it that should be fine in most usual applications. This is not usual. Drylok stops moisture from getting in your house and does not stop the problem. Also ask your paint store to add some grey or white to the Drylok for coverage. 

Now the real problem. I'll bet his cinder block is starting to fail and turn into sand. My first guess would be that the outside of his house is improperly graded. My second suggestion would be to get a professional excavator in to give him a quote on digging around the foundation, putting in some sort of drain tile and properly grading the ground outside. If this customer has ever seen the effects of a sudden foundation failure he won't try to just Drylok it.


----------



## briancreary (Feb 10, 2010)

*Btw*

Drylok does not cover well, definatly prime or have something added to the Drylok *(Again I.E. White or Grey).


----------



## Steve Richards (Mar 7, 2006)

You'd need to get either of them down to bare block/concrete before using dryloc.
Putting it over existing paint would be a waste of time.


If the second guy doesn't have a moisture problem, then just prep and paint.


----------



## Faron79 (Nov 29, 2007)

S.R. & Brian are completely correct...

Wet Guy:
That block may be starting to fail. What's on the inside of the bubbles? Any water...or is it grit?
What kind of landscaping/ground-slope is near the foundation? 
>>> Moisture-control starts at the TOP/OUTSIDE.
>>> How deep is the foundation?
>>> How far out do the gutters go? They've GOT to be 6' or so, if at all possible...
>>> Yes, wall has to be cleaned, dust-free, and dry b4 applying Drylok.
>>> Is there a sump-system of any kind operating?
>>> Do a sample wire-brushing to get a feel for the concrete in the bubbling areas.

Dry Guy:
* Drylok useless here! It HAS to go onto bare concrete so it can "wick into" it, and bond/fill the teeny pores.
* Use normal prep & paint.

Faron


----------



## briancreary (Feb 10, 2010)

*Right*

Good point, it's an acrylic and therefore is breathable and needs to be that way. I've only ever used Drylok on bare concrete, but it's been a while. Thanks. :thumbsup:


----------



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

http://www.thoroproducts.com/products_waterproofing.htm


----------

