# Revising poor backsplash work



## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

I have been doing backsplash and tile work for a few years so know a little about what I am doing but am not an expert. I have only done primary jobs, not redos.

The other day a new guy I have working with me botched some backsplash. Fortunately it was a small area. He put some of after it has skimmed over and it didn't bond well and then some he didn't put on as level as I would like.

So, I took it off. The problem is, that some of it did bond well and in a few spots it took the drywall off into the gypsum. It is small and not full thickness, but it did get through the paper and take some gypsum with a couple tiles.

My questions are:
1) What do I do to repair the drywall places? Can I mud over them or do I need to cut them out and redrywall it? If I do redrywall, do I use joint compound and tape or just fill the gaps with thinset? I have read you don't want joint compound under the thinset if you can help it.

2) For the remainder of the wall, what is the best way to get the old thinset off without destroying the wall? I have a couple Fein angle grinders--would that work? What grinding wheel would I use? I have also considered just putting new thinset over the old thinset. I figure it should bond to itself. I mixed the thinset myself so I know it was mixed properly, the problem was tile application.

I just found this forum--good to know it is here! Appreciate the help!


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## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

Here is a picture of the damage...


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

I'd tear the rest of those off and just skim the whole area back flat.


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## bowtie (Feb 4, 2012)

Or tear it all out to the studs and new rock, then set it ..


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Most of the time on those removals I will cut the stuff out and replace with new rock, if its not too bad hit it with 20 minute.


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## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

When you say skim it, I assume you are talking about mud? I have been told that you aren't supposed to put thinset over that....will I be all right placing the thinset over a skim coat of joint compound?

I was considering ripping it out and doing it again, although I hate the idea of having to go get the stuff to do dry wall and shifting gears to do that. 

Thanks for the help!


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## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

Anything against just hitting the thinset already there with my angle grinder to decrease thickness? If I do skim coat it, I don't want it to start walking out too far. What kind of wheel would you use on the grinder for that?

Also, if I put up new rock, do I fill the seams normally with joint compound or should I fill them with thinset? (relates to my question about putting thinset over joint compound)

I already see that fixing a tile screw up is much harder than doing it right from the start!


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Pop the last run off and replace it with same thickness CB... you're over-thinking it...


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## FrankSmith (Feb 21, 2013)

Tractor11 said:


> Anything against just hitting the thinset already there with my angle grinder to decrease thickness? If I do skim coat it, I don't want it to start walking out too far. What kind of wheel would you use on the grinder for that?
> 
> Also, if I put up new rock, do I fill the seams normally with joint compound or should I fill them with thinset? (relates to my question about putting thinset over joint compound)
> 
> I already see that fixing a tile screw up is much harder than doing it right from the start!


I would not recommend grinding it. First off its most likely the hardest way to get where you need to be. Besides that it would be very dust.

Either skim coat what is there or start over. If that is an exterior wall and you replace it just be sure to make some effort to address air infiltration from the wall cavity. There are a lot of ways you could go about that but it needs to be done.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Tractor11 said:


> I was considering ripping it out and doing it again, although I hate the idea of having to go get the stuff to do dry wall and shifting gears to do that.


When in doubt, rip it out. With that small of an area, you should have the materials for something that in your trailer, garage, basement, etc. Stores also sell half sheets of drywall as that's tossed from jobs anyway....


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

In the time it has taken you to think about it you could have replaced that piece 6 times.

I would have replaced that pc of drywall right away without thinking, drywall is $10 sheet.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

rrk said:


> In the time it has taken you to think about it you could have replaced that piece 6 times.


 :whistling Not to mention clean up the electrical......


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## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

Ok...it's getting replaced totally. Only question is what do I do with the seams where it meets the cabinets, countertop, and door frame? Joint compound or thinset right over the drywall?


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

OK--I've changed my mind and it's good because you've not done anything yet. 

Don't touch anything near any electrical wires. I do not recommend you doing anything here. I recommend you call someone that does stuff like this and has insurance to do things like this.


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## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

Are you saying call in a sub for the electrical wires? I haven't done much electrical work in my career with do know a little bit. What concerns you about the electrical situation? I don't know what I don't know here...aside from cutting out the drywall and making sure I don't cut wires (of course), what is the problem?


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Tractor11 said:


> what is the problem?


I'm just sort of screwed up in the head as far as giving out advice on how/what to do in things I'm not involved in. To me, it's a matter of liability and conscience. 

There also seems to be some exposed electrical outlet there, so like I said, I would not recommend you do anything there and hire a professional. If that is you, then fine. If that is not you, then as stated, I don't recommend doing anything there.

Don't take this wrong, but you don't seem very experienced in this--that's why I changed my mind. If not, my apologies.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

Tractor11 said:


> Anything against just hitting the thinset already there with my angle grinder to decrease thickness? If I do skim coat it, I don't want it to start walking out too far. What kind of wheel would you use on the grinder for that?
> 
> Also, if I put up new rock, do I fill the seams normally with joint compound or should I fill them with thinset? (relates to my question about putting thinset over joint compound)
> 
> I already see that fixing a tile screw up is much harder than doing it right from the start!





KAP said:


> Pop the last run off and replace it with same thickness CB... you're over-thinking it...


:thumbup:



CO762 said:


> When in doubt, rip it out. With that small of an area, you should have the materials for something that in your trailer, garage, basement, etc. Stores also sell half sheets of drywall as that's tossed from jobs anyway....


:thumbup:



rrk said:


> In the time it has taken you to think about it you could have replaced that piece 6 times.
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> I would have replaced that pc of drywall right away without thinking, drywall is $10 sheet.


:thumbup:



CO762 said:


> :whistling Not to mention clean up the electrical......





Tractor11 said:


> Are you saying call in a sub for the electrical wires? I haven't done much electrical work in my career with do know a little bit. What concerns you about the electrical situation? I don't know what I don't know here...aside from cutting out the drywall and making sure I don't cut wires (of course), what is the problem?


...if you don't see what the problem is with the "electrical", then...



CO762 said:


> Don't take this wrong, but you don't seem very experienced in this--that's why I changed my mind. If not, my apologies.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

This would be an excellent topic for the DIY forum...


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## Tractor11 (May 26, 2013)

That is honest, fair, and reasonable. I'm not the world's most experienced with this--I usually just do it right so I don't have to fix things! I understand your position but I'm pretty comfortable with this so will probably proceed. You will not be liable though! Thanks for the feedback.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

So what is your plan of attack?

If you don't mind me asking.

You asked a question of the forum here, and well, I'm curious as to how you will proceed, based on all the intel you got from this thread?


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