# Makita track saw



## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

My makita trac saw will be delivered tomorrow. Wondering if anyone has this saw, and what blades you use?

Do festool blades fit? I know I will need a good finish blade as I cut mostly finished hardwoods and veneer


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I think the Makita uses the same blades as the Festool Also the same trac.


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

I know I still on the original festool blade in my ts75 and all my cut edges are perfect chip free edges, check the arbor spec on the Makita but the blades are expensive!
Though It's like putting a Mercedes rotors on a Toyota


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Five Star said:


> Though It's like putting a Mercedes rotors on a Toyota


I think they both buy the blades from the same manufacture:blink:


----------



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

Yes, Makita and Festool parts are pretty much interchangable. Makita's are obviously cheaper, probably both in cost and in quality, though not by much.


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

I believe Makita also does not have the riviving knife to help the material not bind while being cut


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I think they both buy the blades from the same manufacture:blink:


Ok Lexus rotors on a Toyota haha


----------



## jiffy (Oct 21, 2007)

The Makita seems to be as good as the Festool or better depending on how much kool-aid the person you ask has been drinking. The Makita saw has more power, anti-tilt lock so the saw won't tip off the rail, more cutting angle, and a little less upfront cost.

The blades that Makita uses are Tenyru, so I wouldn't call them cheap.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

jiffy said:


> The Makita seems to be as good as the Festool or better depending on how much kool-aid the person you ask has been drinking. The Makita saw has more power, anti-tilt lock so the saw won't tip off the rail, more cutting angle, and a little less upfront cost.
> 
> The blades that Makita uses are Tenyru, so I wouldn't call them cheap.




The festool has more features overall than the Makita. I love Makita as much as festool but for the price difference there's no doubt i would buy the TS55 over the SP6000.


----------



## WilsonRMDL (Sep 4, 2007)

What kind of features does the festool have the Makita doesn't? Other than price I couldn't find much


----------



## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

TS 55 blades fit the Makita. The tracks are also interchangeable along with the track joiners and with little adapting the parallel guides also work.


----------



## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

WilsonRMDL said:


> What kind of features does the festool have the Makita doesn't? Other than price I couldn't find much


Riving knife is the only thing the Festool has that the Makita doesn't. The makita cuts a deeper bevel (50 degree) and it will go to a -2 degree, it has an anti tip, and it doesn't shut down when it gets hot.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

The Makita blade is 165mm vs the Festool 160mm. That being said, I use the Oshlusn FesPro blades (160mm) in my Makita SP6000. I have been for over a year now...maybe over two?


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

I like Makita too but overall the festool ts is a proven saw and in the long run is a great saw ! 

Just like in the cordless nail gun market there's a lot of new stuff coming out but in the long run paslode is the most recognized and proven itself above the rest!

And the multi tool market all these people coming up with these versions yet there's nothing comes close to the fein!

It's good that the saw shuts down it tells you the saw is straining and the material is burning !

I'm not saying the Makita is bad but your there and the poster wants to put a festool blade why not just get the festool saw and the vac for a package instead of mixing and matching


----------



## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

Five Star said:


> I like Makita too but overall the festool ts is a proven saw and in the long run is a great saw ! I've had my Makita for years and it works the same as the day I bought it.
> 
> Just like in the cordless nail gun market there's a lot of new stuff coming out but in the long run paslode is the most recognized and proven itself above the rest!
> I agree Paslode is the best.
> ...


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

WarriorWithWood said:


> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


I don't know about the ts 55 I have the ts 75 and never shut down on me or even bogged down! 

I have all Makita other tools including The table saw which in times scares me its so powerful!! Even when binding the saw never trips and just keeps winding!

Again I'm not knocking the Makita I'm just curious if I bought a Makita and wanted a extra blade I would go for a Makita blade, to me it's like buying a Toyota and putting Mercedes rims on it!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Festool is a better quality saw for one and which is the most important. the customer service is above Makitas by a fair bit which to me is very important. but onto the more technical things below is what it has over the Makita and more important than what the Makita has over the TS55. The TS55 is also feels more slick. 

Riving knife
Splinter guard
Plug it power cord system
MMC system (Makita has their own version but from what i hear it does nothing and does not protect the motor at all. My friends on his 3rd one and about to buy a TS55 to replace it)
Warrenty


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Five Star said:


> I don't know about the ts 55 I have the ts 75 and never shut down on me or even bogged down!
> 
> I have all Makita other tools including The table saw which in times scares me its so powerful!! Even when binding the saw never trips and just keeps winding!
> 
> Again I'm not knocking the Makita I'm just curious if I bought a Makita and wanted a extra blade I would go for a Makita blade, to me it's like buying a Toyota and putting Mercedes rims on it!


If the TS55 needed more power they would have added a bigger motor. Mine has never bogged down. Not even when cutting 2" Hard maple counter tops 6ft long cutting into end grain the whole length. It went through it like butter. that was the first time i used that saw and i was well impressed.

People also say the kapex is under powered yet its more powerful than my old makita that was a 15amp saw! its not always about power.


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Festool is a better quality saw for one and which is the most important. the customer service is above Makitas by a fair bit which to me is very important. but onto the more technical things below is what it has over the Makita and more important than what the Makita has over the TS55. The TS55 is also feels more slick.
> 
> Riving knife
> Splinter guard
> ...


Warranty is sec to none I can vouch for that personally! And I love the speed control on the ts great for azek sheets , never had a sec thought and if I wanted to sell the saw tomorrow I would get 90% back these tools hold there ground firm!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Five Star said:


> Warranty is sec to none I can vouch for that personally! And I love the speed control on the ts great for azek sheets , never had a sec thought and if I wanted to sell the saw tomorrow I would get 90% back these tools hold there ground firm!


The Makita also has speed control but the TS55 still a much nicer saw to use. Guess i better return my kapex and replace it with my old makita because the Makita has 15amp motor and my Kapex has 13amp


----------



## Five Star (Jan 15, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Chairmon have you even owned the saw because it seems to me you either had a defective saw or you just didn't know how to use it.
> 
> Let's bust some of these myths
> 
> ...


That's a system right there and it's a matching set that's interchangeable to work with at least 10 different things! I never regretted buying my festools and the bottom line is if the tools make you work faster easier and smarter its worth every cent to me !


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

john27 said:


> The carvex had a fixed strobe light which when used on kitchen worktops you could not see the cut line, the d-grip handle was designed for a 6 year old childs hands, the saw would not cut straight, the ejection for the blade never lined up when you stopped the saw...
> I also did not return it, i had to sell it on Ebay..
> The splinter guards started peeling after a couple of weeks, then saw dust gets behind and they get worse..
> The guide rail connectors do not align the rails up straight and the grub screws are crap, if you over tighten them they crush into the rail.
> ...


John The only reason your saw wouldn't cut is because it's either faulty, dull blade or user error. As you can see from my video my TS55 has no issue going through a piece of hard maple counter top even with the 48 tooth blade. My TS is not some special version which cuts better than others by the way so it's clearly a fault your end. 

As I already said I have no had the splinter guards peel off. Perhaps be more careful with your tracks as the splinter guards are not welded on. They are designed to be removed and replaced after they wear. 

Sounds like your using a cheap screw driver to tighten the grub screws. I have snapped 2 screws driver on my grub screws and one of them was my toolie driver I used to tighten them. yet my grub screws are still in great condition and no sign of wear even after 3+ years of use. 

I ain't used the carvex but the only complaint the guy I meet the other day who has one was that when reversing the cut the blade would jump out of the guide. Which he showed me and he said this was the reason the tool was withdrawn from sale. 

The other issues you have with the carvex sound like user errors. I can't see some pencil lines that well on some things when I use my makita jigsaw but if that happens I tape the line. It ain't my Jigsaws fault.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Right There shows that he didn't set the saw up correctly. User error and he's blaming the saw! Mines never tipped off the track like that. I rarely even leave it on the track as its taken off the track after the cut is made and put on the tack before the cut is made. Not sure why you would even leave the saw sitting like that anyway. Just ajust the guides correctly and it won't tip. Pretty simple


Maybe I'm being presumptuous but the guy bought his saw years before you bought yours...you think he just never figured out how to use it?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> Maybe I'm being presumptuous but the guy bought his saw years before you bought yours...you think he just never figured out how to use it?


Well his video proves he didn't know how to ajust the guides. The guides are meant to be snug so that there's no play in the saw on the track. Too tight and the saw will bind up on the track and too loose it will give a sloppy cut and tip of the rail very easyly like his did. Mine will tip of the rail if I make it but I can let it go and it not fall off like his does 

Some people can own tools for years and never figure them out fully. I'm always learning what stuff my tools can do and I'm sure everyone's the same. He prob didn't read the instructions when he got the saw. I don't normally either but when I got that saw I did.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> Well his video proves he didn't know how to ajust the guides. The guides are meant to be snug so that there's no play in the saw on the track. Too tight and the saw will bind up on the track and too loose it will give a sloppy cut and tip of the rail very easyly like his did. Mine will tip of the rail if I make it but I can let it go and it not fall off like his does
> 
> Some people can own tools for years and never figure them out fully. I'm always learning what stuff my tools can do and I'm sure everyone's the same. He prob didn't read the instructions when he got the saw. I don't normally either but when I got that saw I did.


Relay that info to the pros:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...ng-ts-5575-to-the-rail-while-set-at-an-angle/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/ts55-anti-tip-device/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/tilt-locker/


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> Relay that info to the pros:
> 
> http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...ng-ts-5575-to-the-rail-while-set-at-an-angle/
> 
> ...



Looks like some people are over thinking a simple task. I will posts some pics in the morning of the guides you have to adjust. They won't hold the saw to the track if you move the track about like a crazy man with the saw on it but they will hold the saw if your ajusting the track to a line your cutting.


----------



## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

bc if your guides are snug enough to keep the saw held up in worksite conditions and are still lose enough to let you slide the saw good for you. if you adjust your guides every time you switch rails- I have 5 of them 2-3000's, 1-2400lr32, 1-1400, and an 800,-- hey great. 

Your saw is underpowered!!!! but if you like to baby it through cuts or keep new blades on it at all times great:thumbsup:. But when you insist that we dont know what we are talking about-- have you been to Lebanon?? Do you know even what I am Referring to,-- you are sadly mistaken.


----------



## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> Looks like some people are over thinking a simple task. I will posts some pics in the morning of the guides you have to adjust. They won't hold the saw to the track if you move the track about like a crazy man with the saw on it but they will hold the saw if your ajusting the track to a line your cutting.


The REASON that these Festool Junkies Jump these hoops is because the TS55 will tip if you are not anal about preventing it. As to not knowing my saw I know that saw better than most. I know it well enough to set it's "toe in" propely. I know it well enough to make the mod you saw in the vid. (the vid was a demo by the way to show how the sliding hold down, modified festool hold down to move with the saw, operated.) I have the supplemental manual by Rick. Festools instructions SUCK that is why Festool USA has undertook to make supplemental manuals avaliuble http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/ts_55_eq_us.pdf you can find them if you know where to look


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

charimon said:


> bc if your guides are snug enough to keep the saw held up in worksite conditions and are still lose enough to let you slide the saw good for you. if you adjust your guides every time you switch rails- I have 5 of them 2-3000's, 1-2400lr32, 1-1400, and an 800,-- hey great.
> 
> Your saw is underpowered!!!! but if you like to baby it through cuts or keep new blades on it at all times great:thumbsup:. But when you insist that we dont know what we are talking about-- have you been to Lebanon?? Do you know even what I am Referring to,-- you are sadly mistaken.


I keep the same setting on all my rails. No need to change it. 

Chairmon underpowered for what. What exactly are you cutting that bogs the saw down as I ain't ever had it bog down even at its capacity with hard woods! Check the video out I posted. That's a 3 year old blade that's in need of a good clean. How much more power do you need? My Kapex has less power than 80% of the other 10" saws on the market yet it deals with material better than my makita that was 15amp! Also who said anything about babying a cut? I cut it as quick as the sharpness of the blade allows. Yeah let's put a 50amp motor on it so that we can burn our way through the material with dull blades. You should know as well as anyone what happens when you force the tool to do the work the blade is meant to be doing. You get deflection which is what you don't want and is the reason to use a track saw in the first place.


----------



## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

While you guys were on here bitching about 2 GREAT tools. I was out actually making money with my track saw.

You guys need to remember not every body likes the same tools. Get over it some people find one under powered that is an OPINION that doesn't mean they are wrong. 

These are opinions you people are arguing about and every body has one and they all stink.

Cole


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

charimon said:


> The REASON that these Festool Junkies Jump these hoops is because the TS55 will tip if you are not anal about preventing it.


The reason they do it is because like you they didn't set the saw up right. No the saw wont stay on the track is you want to kick it around or knock it with material but under normal conditions the saw stays on the track just fine.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Cole82 said:


> While you guys were on here bitching about 2 GREAT tools. I was out actually making money with my track saw.
> 
> You guys need to remember not every body likes the same tools. Get over it some people find one under powered that is an OPINION that doesn't mean they are wrong.
> 
> ...



Both are good tools. I have been cutting hard maple with mine all day today and it didn't big down once nor did it tip of the track. People who give feedback need to make sure they are using the tool correctly to begin with. Just like the tread with the Kapex that didn't work it ended up being user error. Something as simple as a dull blade can change the way a tool performs drastically. If they are gonna review the tools they have/owned then be honest about how they were being used. To say the TS55 was underpowered because it couldn't burn it's way through the material is idiotic to say the least when everyone else's finds it cuts hardwoods to its capacity just fine.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

I think TNT and BCC are the same person with two accounts.:laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Inner10 said:


> I think TNT and BCC are the same person with two accounts.:laughing:


Took you long enough to figure that out. Ain't you ever noticed we don't argue with each other :laughing:


----------



## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> Both are good tools. I have been cutting hard maple with mine all day today and it didn't big down once nor did it tip of the track. People who give feedback need to make sure they are using the tool correctly to begin with. Just like the tread with the Kapex that didn't work it ended up being user error. Something as simple as a dull blade can change the way a tool performs drastically. If they are gonna review the tools they have/owned then be honest about how they were being used. To say the TS55 was underpowered because it couldn't burn it's way through the material is idiotic to say the least when everyone else's finds it cuts hardwoods to its capacity just fine.


This thread was about if the festool blade fits the makita saw.:whistling
Unitl five star startied calling the makita crap. Not much of a review if you ask me.



Five Star said:


> I know I still on the original festool blade in my ts75 and all my cut edges are perfect chip free edges, check the arbor spec on the Makita but the blades are expensive!
> Though It's like putting a Mercedes rotors on a Toyota


Cole


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Cole82 said:


> This thread was about if the festool blade fits the makita saw.:whistling
> Unitl five star startied calling the makita crap. Not much of a review if you ask me.
> 
> 
> ...



I doubt crap. I have more Makita tools than most but they are far from festool quality. Still very good tools and they last but you can feel the quality and the thought that went into the festools when you use them. I wouldn't have spent $13k on Festool gear if it weren't any good that's for sure.


----------



## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

I think you have mistook what I was saying, I like the Saw(TS55). let me reference "underpowered", when you push the saw under heavy load, like dropping a 10' rail on a green treat 2/12 to make the last 8' of a ramp, when the saw gets hot it's protective circuitry will shut the saw off mid cut, the first time it happens you swear you broke the saw but it is fine, I also have had trouble cutting phenolic plywood on the 45, same thing happens. The Mak dosn't get hot doing the same cuts...

When I refer to "professional" use here on this forum I am talking to contractors who I assume Think like I do, that If i have to baby my tools on site I don't want them when there is an alternative. The Makita is a better contractor jobsite tool.

If you are a 1 man show-- Trim carpenter/cabinet builder -- doing alot of remodel work on sight The festool SYSTEM is the BESTway to go. It produces an Awesome first impression when you show them your job trailer. Reinforced daily by how clean the site stays. You are able to be more productive by having organization. And you produce better finished product because your tools are both precise and accurate. I know. I have been drinking deeply of the coolaid since 06


----------



## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> I doubt crap. I have more Makita tools than most but they are far from festool quality. Still very good tools and they last but you can feel the quality and the thought that went into the festools when you use them. I wouldn't have spent $13k on Festool gear if it weren't any good that's for sure.


Yet again this is an OPINION that festool quality is better than the makita. I have festool it doesn't last any longer than other brands, so I never bought it again the return wasn't worth the investment. 

charimon hit the nail on the head with this post. Festool is geared towards one man show trim/cabinet guys. 

People like me that have several people using the same tool. Have found festool is no better than the rest for longevity so it's not worth the extra money to us. 



charimon said:


> I think you have mistook what I was saying I like the Saw(TS55). let me reference "underpowered" when you push the saw under heavy load like dropping a 10' rail on a green treat 2/12 to make the last 8' of a ramp when the saw gets hot it's protective circuitry will shut the saw off mid cut, the first time it happens you swear you broke the saw but it is fine, I also have had trouble cutting phenolic plywood on the 45 same thing. The Mak dosnt get hot doing the same cuts...
> 
> When I refer to "professional" use here on this forum I am talking to contractors who I assume Think like I do, that If i have to baby my tools on site I don't want them when there is an alternative. The Makita is a better contractor jobsite tool.
> 
> If you are a 1 man show-- Trim carpenter/cabinet builder -- doing alot of remodel work on sight The festool SYSTEM is the BESTway to go. It produces an Awesome first impression when you show them your job trailer. Reinforced daily by how clean the site stays. You are able to be more productive by having organization. And you produce better finished product because your tools are both precise and accurate. I know. I have been drinking deeply of the coolaid since 06


I agree 100% with you Chairmon.

Cole


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

charimon said:


> I think you have mistook what I was saying I like the Saw(TS55). let me reference "underpowered" when you push the saw under heavy load like dropping a 10' rail on a green treat 2/12 to make the last 8' of a ramp when the saw gets hot it's protective circuitry will shut the saw off mid cut, the first time it happens you swear you broke the saw but it is fine, I also have had trouble cutting phenolic plywood on the 45 same thing. The Mak dosnt get hot doing the same cuts...
> 
> When I refer to "professional" use here on this forum I am talking to contractors who I assume Think like I do, that If i have to baby my tools on site I don't want them when there is an alternative. The Makita is a better contractor jobsite tool.
> 
> If you are a 1 man show-- Trim carpenter/cabinet builder -- doing alot of remodel work on sight The festool SYSTEM is the BESTway to go. It produces an Awesome first impression when you show them your job trailer. Reinforced daily by how clean the site stays. You are able to be more productive by having organization. And you produce better finished product because your tools are both precise and accurate. I know. I have been drinking deeply of the coolaid since 06



I'm unsure why you are having cut out issues with such soft woods. But my friend said the makita will keep cutting like you say which is why he kept burning them out. He said they do have a protective system in place that is meant to stop the motor from burning out but it don't cut in. The festool will stop him from destroying the saws this time around. Just like their drills. The makitas are more powerfulmthan the festools but its easy to destroy them by pushing them beyong their design. Yeah they will drill that 3" hole but at what cost. festool ain't the most powerful amp wise but what's the power worth when you smoke the drills to death. I have done this to numerous tools and that's what's nice about the festools. They Will shut the saw down before damage happens. I would rather have a saw that has less Amps than a saw that's got more amps but melts its windings down.

But until the day I bog my saw down I will still say they are far from underpowered. A sharp blade is the most important part of a cutting tool.


----------



## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

One more thing, I can throw my Makita out of the systainer in the back of my pickup and park at the lumber yard and guys who walk by will leave it alone thinking it is just another junky Sidewinder---:laughing:


----------

