# Better screws for Hardibacker?



## Kingstud

I just finished prepping a room for tile, hardibacker to the ceiling on 3 walls. 
The tile guy said use roofing nails because he didn't want screw heads sticking up. I told him I screw everything and it wouldnt be a problem. I figured my bosch impact would run em in good.
It didnt, in fact I watched the hardibacker lift off of the wall as I ran the screws in. Then the heads arent agressive enough to cut a good countersink.
Also the heads would strip out, I would run a screw in, strip it, back it out grab another. I did this for the 1st 100 screws.

So then I pre-drilled all the holes and then hit them with a titanium counter sink. Took forever, I worked 12 hrs on Easter Sunday

I looked at 3 different brand of screws, all the same chinese junk.
Does GRK or anyone make a good cement board screw?


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## angus242

I've never had issues with the Hardi screws you get from home cheapo. I also have CBU screw from Senco...no issues.


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## Dan_Watson

Never an issue with the screws from the big ol orange store.


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## Warren

Sounds like a collated screw gun would have paid for itself that day.


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## Metro M & L

dewalt impact and a new bit. I can even sink em with the 12v dewalt impact.


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## WarriorWithWood

IIRC (It's been a while) I've had that issue where the 1 1/4" wouldn't sink, they'd just strip the wood, so I went and grabbed the 1 5/8" screws. Problem solved.


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## opiethetileman

I use ring shanked 1 3/8 nails. Or shoot them in with my duofast coil siding nailer with 1 7/8 ss ring shankers. never had a problem.


Make sure if you are installing the hardi on the floor in thinseted and nailed or screwed.:whistling


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## Kingstud

Since posting I figured something out. I realized the screws I have work great on wonderboard, never been an issue. This was my 1st time installing Hardibacker, apparently there are several brands of screws just for hardi backer (all green in clolor).
Our local supply sells hardibacker and wonderboard but not the screws for Hardibacker. I'll be talking to them about this today.....


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## angus242

Hardie-screws seem to work on everything. Although I've used the gray Senco collated screws and have not had trouble with them. I _rarely _use Hardie.


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## bmcquin

Angus, Why? I don't know what is a good backer board and what isn't so.......


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## angus242

It's really personal choice. I just don't like Hardie in general. Maybe for floors but not walls. I'm not impressed with the new gen Durock's flex. I use Permabase when I need CBU. That's just me.


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## HandyHails

I don't like Hardi. Its too rigid for me. Not enough give. Permabase IS the best in my opinion. That being said, I usually use Durock anyway as it is easier to handle and bonds to thinset like no ones business. I've never had a problem getting any screws to sink in it either. Also its like $2 a sheet cheaper then Permabase or UltraBacker and they just lowered the price at B-Lowe's on the 5/16" sheets to the same price as the 1/2". 

I generally use cheap galvanized 1 5/8" coarse thread screws on the walls in showers. If not Ditra, I'll use 5/16ths CBU on floors bedded in cheap thinset (floor adhesive by name at B-Lowes $5 a bag) and that will get 1 1/4" screws trying not to hit the joists.

PS. - Wonderboard Sucks. I never use that crap.


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## jarvis design

I like permabase as well. Easy to cut and screw. I use 1 3/4 floor screws. 
I also like the fact I can get 32x60 and 36x60


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## detroit687

i use a drywall screw gun run it in back it out and sink it. Backing it out to me seems like it makes sure the underlayment is tight to the subfloor. screwguns fast and you can bounce the clutch.


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## Dan_Watson

Did you mud under the CBU?


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## tileman2000

The square head screws seem to solve the stripping problem, in my case anyway.


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## Kingstud

This sucks, we don't get any of the products you guys named.
The local store has the hardi screws at the main store and are going to carry them in the local since I talked to the manager.

Should I request they stock a better CBU? which one?

AlwaysC- No the floor is slab, this is for wall tile.


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## Joeboxer

Even when using rock-on Hardie screws, I would use impact gun and screw I to the Hardie 500 in Reverse. This predrills and bores the board. After that flip the drill and screw forward as normal.

It takes an additional 10 seconds per screw, but it saves drill bits, and overall time. Also makes a tighter mate to the stud without bucking pressure on the board. Just make sure your stud is all perfectly on plane.

And please wear a face mask when doing this. You're going to make silica dust.

For scoring and cutting holes, I use a razor blade. Well, a pack of 100 razor blade and score with those. Keep most of the used blade for normal projects because the majority of the blade is still razor sharp. Just the tips gets worn.


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## Inner10

Joeboxer said:


> Even when using rock-on Hardie screws, I would use impact gun and screw I to the Hardie 500 in Reverse. This predrills and bores the board. After that flip the drill and screw forward as normal.
> 
> It takes an additional 10 seconds per screw, but it saves drill bits, and overall time. Also makes a tighter mate to the stud without bucking pressure on the board. Just make sure your stud is all perfectly on plane.
> 
> And please wear a face mask when doing this. You're going to make silica dust.
> 
> For scoring and cutting holes, I use a razor blade. Well, a pack of 100 razor blade and score with those. Keep most of the used blade for normal projects because the majority of the blade is still razor sharp. Just the tips gets worn.


Sadly he died of silica dust inhalement back in 2011, had you been around 8 years ago when he posted this you could have saved his life.


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## Lady Dreamer

This is the reason why you always check dates!! Lol 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## TNTRenovate

I have no issue with someone commenting on an old thread, just don't address anyone in the thread after 7 years.


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## 91782

Who is that?

Does it matter? He's dead, Jim.

Dead Jim? Never heard of him.

No, he's dead, Jim.


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## Joeboxer

May be an old thread, but still relevant as any current ones.


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## TNTRenovate

Joeboxer said:


> May be an old thread, but still relevant as any current ones.


Yes and no...It's 8 years old. A lot has changed in 8 years so it's relevance is diminished quite a bit.


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## MarkJames

Occasionally, the screws do lift up the board, at least for me. I just back them out a bit, then screw 'em down. Impact gun gets them flush better.


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## FloorsByAlex

I'd this post really about how to screw backer to the wall?? 
Use newer format backer-on screws 1-5/8". The ones with the torx head. 
Use impact driver. 
Could run a bead of powergrab on the studs and set the board on that to help eliminate liftoff. 
Or use roofing nails like your smart friend. 

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk


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## tjbnwi

USG Durorock screws. 

https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG...ished_assets/durock-screw-submittal-CB400.pdf

Tom


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## sunkist

So here is my major issue with the screws sold for Hardie backing they do not make them shorter than 1,1/4 , so here me out the product is less than 1/2 inch thick and when you attach it to a exterior wall with furring strips the screws bottom out on the block.

In order for me to install Hardie I have to drive a screw back it out, then install a screw I have cut the first couple of threads off, they should offer screws in 1,1/16 I can buy course 1,1/8 drywall screws for ext block walls.


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