# under-cabinet lighting



## greenley (Jan 6, 2006)

I need a new way or some new ideas for under-cabinet lights in residential applications. At the moment I use 14-2 romex and stub the wires out to the various locations described on whatever cabinet drawings are provided (if any)... I've used this system for xenon, halogen and fluorescent fixtures, and there's gotta be a better way. The wires rarely all stub out in all the necessary locations, and the fixtures are a pain in the arse to wire and set. Please let me know any new products or better ideas for rough-in that you have.


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

Normally, I will run a switch leg to a junction box (usually in the basement) and run whips from the basement to where each UC light will go. I use 55" to the bottom of the upper cabinet as my measurement for where the wire will come out of the wall and try to center them in the middle of the cabinet. Now if there's no plan for cabinets at this juncture of the project then you may want to ask the GC if he knows what the hell he's doing because there should be a cabinet plan if he has you in there wiring for UC lighting.


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## greenley (Jan 6, 2006)

That's what I've always done, and I'm looking for something new. Hopefully someone has some new ideas or products that could help us all out...I'm thinking of just running rope lights all around the light rail and calling it a day.
New ideas people - I know you're out there...


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

I've used a bit of Nora mini-track under cabinets lately. Super slick install. I've got some pictures someplace I can hunt up.


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## greenley (Jan 6, 2006)

Cool - I look forward to the pics. It seems as though installing UCL's has become the most loathed chore at the job site - at least for my guys past the age of 50. Please keep the ideas coming...


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## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Our electrical sub has a JB somewhere nearby with the transformer(s) in it and runs LV wire (I think it's 18/2) and coils it up somewhere where the lights should go in the cabinets. Drywall guys know to leave it out, cabinet guys know what to do with it, etc. When he comes back just hook'em up. It's still a pain to lean over the counter to do the splice, but oh well... Not really anything you could do other than lie on your back on the countertop (now there's an idea)


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## te12c02w (Jun 1, 2007)

I, also have been trying to find something better. Looking forward to seeing the Nora mini track system and how the wire attaches.
I don't know how you would protect the 18/2 from overcurrent unless the xmfr is fused properly. It seems like you would have to have lv wire run to each location and around here the inspector doesn't like to see lv wire run in the walls. He's right on that one I think. Not listed for in wall installations.
I have had limited success with Kichler 10563 lights. You have to use their junction box, but it is a little easier to wire than a regular fluorescent light. Then from their j-box you run a kichler pig-tail that just plugs into the light. You can do all the wiring and then fit them to the bottom of the cabinet. While you are laying on your back on the countertop of course. I am one of those over 50 guys. One good thing about these lights is that you can string a bunch of them together just by plugging a wire from one to another. Not cheap though. J-box #10570.


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## greenley (Jan 6, 2006)

Need more input - come on my electrician brothers - if any trade has opinions, it's the electricians... Looking forward to those pics MD. God bless the drop in copper prices, I'm still looking for 1000' spools of 12-2 to get under $100 again.


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## jerzeedivr (Feb 5, 2009)

*lv cab lights*

the job i'm on now is doin lv with the trans in the base cab. we were sliding the lv wire in a clear plastic hose using powder for lube, for protection in the walls. 32 story condos.


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## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

Never had a prob with lv in the walls passing inspection here


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## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

I myself have always tried to wire in the transformer on top of the cabinet and run the lv wire through the inside of the cabinet to the bottom. Once through the bottom i run it on the inside of the bottom trim where it cannot be seen unless you lay under the cabinet. As far as attaching the wire i prefer using velcro with 2 sided tape. Its clean, cheap and can be removed if need be. Everyone has different ways per application but i have found this works for me most of the time.


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## theNewDeal (Jan 25, 2009)

"Touch lights" the midnight infomercials sell them for $19.95, but if you act now they will double you order, 2 for the price of one... a couple 9v batterys, some double face tape and batta-bing your in bidness!

...No need to thank me, really it was nothing!


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## danceprometheus (Feb 27, 2009)

*Kits*

You can buy an affordable 5-10 light kit with all the wiring ready. Makes it simple and even cheaper and nicer.


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## sparkysteve (Jan 27, 2006)

I put a switched outlet in the cabinet, just like an over the range microwave. I then use linkable puck lights. I switch one half and leave the other hot all the time. Makes a good spot for a cell phone charger.


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## kawaikfx400 (Nov 16, 2008)

*lighting*

we use seagull for undercabinet lighting, quick,easy,barely shows easy to wire. We mount the transformer in the basement or above a cabinet. Run the switchleg to it and run each cabinet lights down to to a junction box.

Its 12v lamps with small sockets that snap into a tray kind of with the wire layed in the tray. Little hard to explain but very easy to run and wire.


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