# Interior Brick "Accent Wall"



## Tommy C

OK, have to go on an estimate across the pond, over in Brooklyn...homeowner would like an interior wall to be bricked, to give it the exposed brick look. Wall is about 10' wide by 8' tall.

I've never done an interior brick wall. What kind of support underneath the floor would you guys suggest to bear this weight?

OR....should I just pitch the homeowner on the cultured brick veneer, to make life simple?

Thoughts?


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## Tscarborough

That is the application for which thin brick is designed.


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## Tommy C

OK, but what if they are adamant about real brick?

If they go with the cultured brick veneer...it would just be sheetrock, tar paper, diamond lath, scratchcoat, thin brick veneer?


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## Tscarborough

If they are adamant about real brick, use real thin brick. If I can do in any way I like, I prefer hardi-backer with floated joints and the brick thinset directly to it.


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## stacker

Tscarborough said:


> If they are adamant about real brick, use real thin brick. If I can do in any way I like, I prefer hardi-backer with floated joints and the brick thinset directly to it.


 is that opposed to kinda thin brick??:laughing:


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## lukachuki

http://www.robinsonbrick.com/products/thinbrick/

This is "real" thin brick. Nice stuff.


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## Tommy C

The Robinson Thin Brick does look nice. Can this be applied using thin-set, or regular mortar? Also, how does the cost of this Thin Brick compare to the cost of Eldorado Cultured Brick?


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## lukachuki

Price is similar if I remember correctly and it can be installed with either I would think.


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## Tommy C

Thanks Lukachucki....so I'm assuming I can buy at approx. $4-8 s.f., depending on location??

A few questions - first, would this ThinBrick have more longevity in outdoor applications than Cultured Brick?

Secondly, simply out of curiosity, before thin brick veneer existed, how would this real interior brick wall be done...it would be necessary to reinforce the floor, correct?


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## Tscarborough

On my display wall, I have robinson brick and cultured bick laid side by side. 10 out of 10 homeowners can not tell which is which.


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## lukachuki

Tommy C said:


> Thanks Lukachucki....so I'm assuming I can buy at approx. $4-8 s.f., depending on location??


Find a supplier and call. I recall about $7.00 sf here in my parts...but it was a long time ago.


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## J&A IslandWide

Brick-it is worth looking into also..Perfect for an accent wall & real easy to install..


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## CJKarl

Just finished a job with about 1000 Robinson thin-brick over a concrete foundation. Very happy with the product.
Used "English Pub" it matches their "Cambridge" full sized brick.


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## Tommy C

CJKarl,

Did you come up with corners, and chalk lines?


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## silvertree

Go with thin brick.


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## 6stringmason

Tommy C said:


> CJKarl,
> 
> Did you come up with corners, and chalk lines?


Easiest way is to scratch coat, let dry, then lay your lines out with your brick rule and chalk line it.

I just did a small entry way of about 50 sq feet. I didnt need to snap lines for that. Just eyeballed most of it, and once in awhile I'd check and see if my level was true lol


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## Tommy C

Do you guys think that I should give the wall that random look that most interior exposed brick walls have? In other words, like the sloppy joint look, with the brick not necessarily on a half bond. If it looks too neat, and on a half bond, I fear it might not look like a authentic exposed brick wall.

Do you guys know what I mean by the exposed brick wall look? It's a popular style in apartments, often found in old brownstones here in New York City and surrounding urban areas. It's considered very stylish and is a selling point in terms of real estate in the NYC area. Just checking that you guys from other parts of the country are familiar with this style?

-T


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## Tommy C

Kinda like this:


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## Tommy C

This is where the artistic aspect comes in. Should I attempt to go for this look, leaving the joints pretty sloppy, and giving the wall a random bond look...or should I make it pretty neat? Some exposed brick walls that I've seen are neater than others. Thoughts?


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## Tscarborough

Tommy, those are multi-wythe walls. They were intended to be covered, as a rule, so they just slapped them in the wall. It is possible to emulate this, but it is harder than it looks. You still need to chalk or run stringlines for long runs. To really imitate the old walls, use a flemish or english bond pattern (both of which are displayed in your photos). Another good trick is to put a slight rim of stucco around some of the edges of the wall, or do a window infill complete with arch. Also don't tool the joints, either rake them (to imitate a wall that was to be plastered) or cut them flush (standard interior joint for a non-exposed wall). In an attic type area, you can leave the mortar as is for a squeezed joint.

I see quite a few attempts at doing distressed stucco/exposed brick, but not a whole lot of convincing ones. Another thing is to make absolutely sure that the client knows exactly what you are attempting to imitate, otherwise they will not be satisfied.


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## Tscarborough

If the wall meets at 90o, just trim it with coving or whatever will match the rest of the mouldings in the place.


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## Tommy C

Hmmm...you don't think that coving will look funny on an interior corner? I've never seen that before...


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## Tscarborough

Not as funny as the bare joint. Can you make the sheet rock butt to the brick instead of vice-versa?


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## Tommy C

No - well the sheetrock already exists. I would have to make the brick butt with the existing sheetrock wall. 

What if I just stagger each course a little bit, so that the 8' tall joint is at least not continuous, but "dances" a little?

Yea, I am a perfectionist... :sad:


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## Tscarborough

No one really notices. I think I have a photo of a similar job with thin stone against sheet rock. I will look tonight. I made the joint the same width as the others. I wasn't happy with it, but no one else ever said anything.


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## Tommy C

Yea, it's not a big deal...I just want it to look authentic. You think it would look worse if I staggered the joint, rather than straight?


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