# Tile Heat shield



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

I'm making a heat shield for my wood burning stove.

It needs to stand off the wall ~1". I used steel track to accomodate that. I had to run them vertically for air flow and screw them into existing studs.

My question is, due the existing stud layout, the 1/2" concrete backerboard extends 5" beyond the last stud/track. Is that a problem? I guess my concern is if anyone bumped the end of the screen whether everything would crack.

I can add another track behind the backerboard @ the end, to fill the gap between the drywall and the board, it just won't tie into the wall.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Why not pop for the $3.00 track and not have to worry?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

3 bucks!:blink:this is for his own house not some rich customer


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

I have the track, that's not the issue. I have to take the time to cut it, paint it and screw it in.:whistling On both ends, mind you.

My question is how easy is backer board prone to breaking


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Put t he dam track in and be done with it....:whistling:laughing::laughing:

If you were being paid for this job, in money anyways, how would you do it?.....:whistling


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## Ethos (Feb 21, 2012)

redwood said:


> I have the track, that's not the issue. I have to take the time to cut it, paint it and screw it in.:whistling On both ends, mind you.
> 
> My question is how easy is backer board prone to breaking


Depends on the tile. If you have a 12" tile spanning across the whole thing, it might be fine. If you have 4" tile with a grout line right there at the last track, it could easily flex and crack. I'd just go for it and install the extra track. Sounds like 30 minutes work for peace of mind. That's a bargain at twice the price.


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

griz said:


> Put t he dam track in and be done with it....:whistling:laughing::laughing:
> 
> If you were being paid for this job, in money anyways, how would you do it?.....:whistling


I probably wouldn't do it, I'm a carpentry contractor, not a tile contractor, though I have laid a fair amount of tile.

As a update, I tried and I couldn't fit the track in, so I took some cutoffs and slid them in where I could.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

This would be a perfect place for foam in a can. :thumbup:


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

Ok, here is my hearth and tile heat shield. You can't tell, but the sheild is offset from the wall by 1"

Go easy on me, I'm a carpenter, not a tile setter. Design was a combo of myself and the better half. I would have done something a little different, but I didn't want to fight it.

The chiminey was existing and I did not want to move it, so unfortunately, the stove is not centered. We might get a new stove, this one is about 30 years old, but works great.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

redwood said:


> Go easy on me, I'm a carpenter, not a tile setter.


Is that what you said to your wife?  I've said things like that to mine, "OK, I'm not....but...." 

Looks good (for a carpenter, lol.) Why didn't you bring out the wall tile to match up the deck tile?


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

CO762 said:


> Is that what you said to your wife?  I've said things like that to mine, "OK, I'm not....but...."
> 
> Looks good (for a carpenter, lol.) Why didn't you bring out the wall tile to match up the deck tile?


Actually, I think that the edge pieces of the shield are pretty much even with the hearth tile. The ipe trim on the hearth extends out beyond that. That was my call.


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

redwood said:


> Actually, I think that the edge pieces of the shield are pretty much even with the hearth tile.


Optical delusion then on my part then. Looks good to me then....but I'm not the one that counts.


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

CO762 said:


> Optical delusion then on my part then. Looks good to me then....but I'm not the one that counts.


It may look like that because the sheild is elevated 1" above the hearth for air space.

The boss loved it and that is what counts:thumbup:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

redwood said:


> It may look like that because the sheild is elevated 1" above the hearth for air space.


Couldn't you have run it down below the deck and put the intake on the face of the deck? It's just hat channel on rock on the wall isn't it?


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

CO762 said:


> Couldn't you have run it down below the deck and put the intake on the face of the deck? It's just hat channel on rock on the wall isn't it?


Possibly, I really struggled on the design. There was no info on making these shields, only spec's for the gaps.

That pic is taken from a low perspective, the gap at the bottom really doesn't look that bad when you are upright. If anyone questions it I just tell them it had to be there. If they don't like it, F*** off.:no:

I did paint the channel to match the grout. In retrospect, I probably should have painted the wall down there, dark, as well.

When the better half wants something done, she just tears stuff out. She tore out the old hearth and screen about 3 mos. ago. She kept hounding me that it better be done before it get's cold out. That little stove heats all the public places pretty well. We pretty much never use the furnace. Anyway's, we hooked up the flue over the weekend and it got rainy and cold last night, so I beat the deadline:clap:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

redwood said:


> Possibly, I really struggled on the design.


Don't feel bad as at times, I've really struggled coming up with a solution to carpentry stuff. 



> There was no info on making these shields, only spec's for the gaps.


If that's the case, then I'd guess it was just a gap, an air space to stop contact transference of heat. Kalifornia is weird in many ways, so as long as you had a gap at the base, I figured there needed to be some air flow like an attic...but then that brings up the question as how you terminated it on the top and sides? 

I don't have a good picture. Are those trav ogee as your trim? 
If there's no other end to 'vent' out the hot air, no use in having an air intake, so to speak. I've never seen something built like this, but as I've said, kalifornia is weird in a lot of ways (no offense).



> That pic is taken from a low perspective, the gap at the bottom really doesn't look that bad when you are upright.


No comment. 
If there's no kali code for an air intake gap below, I'd just cover it up. Rip some matching trim and run it to the coners, starting on the inside of the ogee. Be easier than taking out the bottom row, splitting the difference and putting in two rows where there was one.



> I did paint the channel to match the grout.


Your studs are showing..... 
Tile can be considered 'finish work' sometimes 

Or just redo it later, when ya have some time, give your woman a demo hammer.....


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## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

I don't know what those edge pieces are called, I'm a carpenter. I was just looking for something that would cover the edge of the backer board.

There is actually 1" between the backerboard and the wall. With the trim pieces, that gap is about 1/2". From what I could gather, I needed that gap at the bottom, though our original shield did not have it. It was a pre manufactured panel that just had screws and spacers attaching it to the wall, thus it had a gap everywhere other then the bottom. The track prevented me from having a gap on the sides, though I contemplated drilling holes in it. The track, as far as I could think of, was the only way of adequately supporting the CBU.

Had we wanted to spend a lot of money on a new stove, we could have eliminated the shield on some models that have their own built in shielding. This way we have more options, including using our existing stove.

All stoves are listed and give the min. spacings to combustible surfaces. Using the shield off the wall, cuts that spacing in half, basically. This is a requirement that is everywhere, not just Calif. In some parts of the state, you are no longer allowed to burn wood in stoves or fireplaces.


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