# Converting garage - adding heat/AC



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I'm converting a garage to a rec room. Carpet, insulated walls, etc., Garage door will be replaced with an insulated door and will continue to be in use for parties, etc. 

As for heat and ac, would you advise tapping into the existing ductwork (in the ceiling) to drop a register in there, or add something completely separate? I'm thinking about some sort of Daikin wall combo unit or something like that. Alternatively, maybe tapping into the duct for AC, but adding an elec. baseboard. 

This is a townhouse. Single garage, 23' deep, 8' ceiling (drywalled). Two windows in the rear of the garage. 

Thanks for your thoughts.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

To tap in to the existing system wil depend on the capabilities of the unit and is the duct work sized sifficiently to allow more load to condition the space properly.


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

The easiest and most effective thing to do is to get a separate self-contained unit. 

Even if your existing HVAC system can handle an additional 200 to 300 sq. ft. at the air handler, chances are that the ductwork was not designed with the garage in mind. 

I've seen a few guys attempt to tap off of the existing system only to have very unsatisfactory results. Not only do they end up with a situation where they can't effectively heat/cool the garage conversion, it also affects the comfort in the rest of the house.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Thanks.

Regarding small, self-contained units, anything specific you might suggest taking a look at?


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I'm looking into this right now for my own garage conversion - I can increase the duct size leading through my garage pretty easily, but it's the return which will be a bugger.

This site has some mini split systems available and I remember a neighbor of mine who went in this direction. 

Hang in there - some HVAC fellas should chime in soon any maybe help us out.

http://www.minisplitsystems.com/


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

I am very pleased with the Mitsubishi mini split systems.

Depending on the size of the room maybe a PTAC unit will work.


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## Dr Heat (Dec 25, 2008)

A PTAC heat pump will fit the bill.


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## beenthere (Mar 5, 2009)

In most areas. As long as there is a garage door that a car could be brought in through, code prohibits the garage from being on the same system that the rest of the house uses.


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## jaredhvay (Jul 9, 2009)

I'm getting ready to price converting a storage area above a garage to a bedroom / rec room so I am curious about the heat /cooling also. 

Any other considerations with code, etc. that I should be aware of with finishing an area above an attached garage? 

Don't mean to hijack the thread, thought it might be applicable. Thanks!


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## beenthere (Mar 5, 2009)

If you run the duct work in the garage for the room above. it must be chased and drywalled/sealed from the garage itself.

If you use a ductless mini split, no duct worries.


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## BadgerBoilerMN (Sep 10, 2010)

Here in Minneapolis we install Mitsubishi mini-splits for bonus rooms and additions. I use one in my own home as well. It is a great way to control a single room or suite be it addition or conversion such as yours.


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

No problems with the winters in Minnesota?


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

BadgerBoilerMN said:


> Here in Minneapolis we install Mitsubishi mini-splits for bonus rooms and additions. I use one in my own home as well. It is a great way to control a single room or suite be it addition or conversion such as yours.


What a very rough cost of installing one of those? I need just one wall unit, ground level. The compressor could be placed right behind the garage.


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## Aaron Berk (Jul 10, 2010)

I installed a mini split in my personal garage, cost me $50 for a used climaire off craigslist, $100 for a coolant charge, and $2 for a can of spray foam.

Time was about 2hrs.
It runs 110v and I have it plugged into an outside receptacle.


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## BadgerBoilerMN (Sep 10, 2010)

My MSZGE18NA Mitsubishi mini-split cools the whole 2100sf and heats the second floor most of the year, 19 SEER with a COP of 2.7 down to -4°F (our ODDT is -13). So when it gets cold for a week, we go to direct resistance with radiant floor on an electric boiler or light up the wood stove. 

Installation cost is a one time thing, comfort and return on investment is a 20 year thing.


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