# pros and cons of Zipwall system



## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

Seems quite a bit more expensive than standard OSB, is it that much better?


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Are you talking about these?


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

If your tearing down the side of a house to add on, I would build a temp wall. 

But for all other applications , Zip System. Definitely worth the dough.


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> Are you talking about these?


I'm talking about the green painted OSB... it may be called Zip system not Zipwall


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Brian Peters said:


> I'm talking about the green painted OSB... it may be called Zip system not Zipwall


He's talking about Zip Systems sheathing...stuff that is OSB with Tyvek all in one panel.


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

http://www.zipsystem.com/ 
This is what I was referring to, sorry about the confusion. My mistake


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)




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## elementbldrs (Sep 26, 2010)

I have yet to use the product, but after siding a recent high end custom, I would have saved a tremendous amount in labor if we would have sheathed with this product.

The house has so many pop outs, elevation changes, and structural to finish blocking details, it took over 60 hours to fight the tyvek. Seriously.

Plus were now pushing the time limits of the tyvek open time, and have made numerous repairs due to wind damage.

I would say depending on structure open time and complexity, it could definitely pencil out.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

We used it for the first time recently. Walls only on a large beach house. I loved it and highly recommend it.


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Haven't used it yet, but plan to first chance.


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

I have used it and really like it . Just wondering, are the benefits mainly to the building process, or are there other advantages in the long term?


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## broncofatboy (Dec 23, 2010)

Used it first time on personal project love the wall system great for installing Hardi siding as to know where fastners are.
I plan on using it on upcoming projects
One thing you will notice is it alot harder on saw blades


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

I've been using it for 3 years now and I love it from a framers standpoint. :thumbsup: If you price it out, osb and tyvek is probably cheaper material wise, but you save a ton on labor. We haven't used it on a roof application but somebody else on the forum (sorry, I forgot who:blinkdoes it on his remodel roofs so he doesn't have to wait to get it weathered in. Comes in 8,9 or 10 foot lengths, too.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

one day sheathing is going to be required to be taped at the seams anyway i'll wager


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## Dpscott (Jan 20, 2010)

I use it all the time on walls and roof. It's far superior to tyvek and osb. Of course dry in time is biggest advantage. Also you can do a better job waterproofing. I don't care how good you are with tyvek there will be weak spots. It looks cleaner from an observer standpoint. Flashing doors and Windows is easier also. It lays very flat. You definitely save money when you factor material and labor in. 

Set your nails guns at least to never overdrive the fasteners. Better to take a few minutes and set the nails with hammer than blow through that protective coating. I have a tape gun but I found it faster to get the tape without the paper backing and you can alawys use a j roller to stick the tape the best after its applied. But its very sticky tape anyways.


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

I agree with above. I've ONLY used the zip system for the past 4 years or so (can't remember the last job using CDX).

Personally, i don't like the tape dispensing gun, I think it's overpriced and prefer applying tape by hand. 

To reiterate the above post, don't overdrive the nails, especially on the roof. Set the gun to under drive and hammer them flush. 

It's also worth cutting squares of the tape to cover the exposed nail heads in the field (on the roof)---water always seems to make its way in otherwise. Also make sure you lap the properly--don't think that because its tape, you don't need proper laps, because it can still leak.

For inside wall corners, I like to per-fold the tape down the middle, get it in tight, and apply one side at a time. Make sure to roll the tape (or rub it) so that you can see the ridges and bumps of the sheathing.

You'll love it if you try it.:thumbup:


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## NINZAN STUDIO (Jan 10, 2012)

Last year I produced the construction set of drawings for a project which I also worked as part of the framing / siding / trim subcontractor crew. I had originally spec'd zip system roof sheathing but the builder decided to switch to CDX / peel-n-stick during roof framing. I would have liked to use the zip system purely for the dry-in factor. Given the complex roof of the project (many bodies and different pitches), we ended up leaving the roof plywood exposed for many weeks before dry-in.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

thing that bothers me is adhesive backed or not your still creating a reverse lap and over time would not be surprised to see some tape seam erosion

there are fluid applied wrb that don't have this potential problem that i think we will be seeing more of


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

Tom Struble said:


> one day sheathing is going to be required to be taped at the seams anyway i'll wager


so true...


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

Tom Struble said:


> thing that bothers me is adhesive backed or not your still creating a reverse lap and over time would not be surprised to see some tape seam erosion
> 
> there are fluid applied wrb that don't have this potential problem that i think we will be seeing more of


insulator just offered this as a wrb/air sealing on the ext of the home. 

http://www.tremcosealants.com/commercial/products/product_detail.asp?selected_type=1&product_id=298

$3800 for the house, and it ain't big.


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