# Few question about doing my first 8 x 12 slab of concrete?



## googles (Jul 20, 2010)

I am not a masonry but I am a landscaper. I never do any masonry work. This question is not for a customer its for myself to put my power rack and bench outside since I cant workout inside my house because I don't have the space. The power rack alone weighs 800 lbs. Plus weights and bench so its about 1500 pounds sitting on concrete. The size would be 8 x 12 slab of concrete and i want to do it myself to save the money because things are tight right now? Do I need to put gravel down? If I go with the crack resistant concrete with fiber added no wire mesh added at base then would a 4 inch thickness be ok?? They say you dont need wire mesh with fiber add. Is that true? Or if just go with the regular concrete mix with no fiber and without wire mesh then would 4 inch thickness be ok for that too or will it crack? Do i really need to add wire mesh for 100 square ft with regular concrete mix? Also the whole concrete floor will be cover with wood and thick rubber mats so when the weights slam to the floor it wont damage anything. I hope I don't get laughed at for this question but just looking for advice from others before jumping into it blind. Also these are the two concretes I saw at lowes.


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

If your pouring a 8"x12" slab you can use bags (or a bag). If your pouring a 8"x12' pad call a truck. The trucking will probably cost you more than the concrete, but the work that you will put into mixing and trying to finish a pad with bags will cost you way more than the truck is worth.

Realize your trying to save money and all, but if you can afford to buy all that weight lifting equipment and still have the energy to use it when you get home you can probably afford to have someone give you a hand or do it for you.

When I drag my carcass home after a day in the sun, the last thing I want to look at is a set of weights.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

Where are you located? if it's an 8' x 12' slab, definitely call a truck and if you live in a frost area, use rebar or mesh at the very least to keep it from cracking.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

buy some sonotubes and dig each point where the bench touches the ground to a depth of 36", fill with concrete then drill and install concrete sleeve anchors. You won't have any problem w/ that 1500lbs walking off the pad 

if memory serves, each 80lb bag = .666cuft and you would need 48 bags for a 4" slab-that would be a brutal pour where the first is dry before you get done w/ the last bag. cost would be around $176. if you call in a truck you'll may end up paying $75 more for a short load charge but you'll have 4-5 hrs extra for lifting weights afterwards and you can order the truck w/ fiber added.


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## Home Serve (Apr 26, 2007)

I'm sorry but even a landscaper knows that you aren't going to pour a 8x12 with bags of concrete. What is the real story here, gotta be a joke or a HO. :no: :no: Ain't buying it!


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## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

I agree, call a truck. That is a LOT of bags to mix and finish alone.

Reg. concrete and wire mesh will be fine.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

If it's a 4" slab with a turn down edge, you will use 60-70 bags, depending on how you do the edge. Without a turn down edge you will use 50 bags (2 sf/bag)

Mixing 60-70 bags by yourself while maintaining a continuous pour that you can properly finish would be a Herculean task.

This assumes buying the 90# bags. If you buy the smaller 60# bags, you will need 1/3 more bags.


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## googles (Jul 20, 2010)

I forgot to mention that I will be using a concrete mixter. Also I did call the ready made trucks but I need it poured in back and there a huge hill so I can't wheel barral it in or have them pour it.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

A mixer will make it less difficult than mixing in a wheelbarrow BUT

you will be lifting 65 (estimate) 90# bags of cement up to about 4' above grade then emptying them into the running mixer. This means you hold them as they empty. You can do about 3 bags in a small (electric) mixer per one batch that will fill a single wheel barrow. 

Can you do this by yourself? Can you mix, move, place, float, then finish this by yourself. You could split the slab in half, doing it in two days but you are still looking at a significant time crunch to stay ahead of the mud.

You're still going to need to get the 6000# of concrete mix up the hill.


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## googles (Jul 20, 2010)

thom said:


> A mixer will make it less difficult than mixing in a wheelbarrow BUT
> 
> you will be lifting 65 (estimate) 90# bags of cement up to about 4' above grade then emptying them into the running mixer. This means you hold them as they empty. You can do about 3 bags in a small (electric) mixer per one batch that will fill a single wheel barrow.
> 
> ...





well i would just bring the bags a day or two ahead where i will be building the slab. 

when you say split it up you mean build the 8 x 12 frame and then put 2 x 4 straight down the middle?? this way i can do it a different day.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Hey googles,
I have a heavy clay soil that's been submerged (in spots) due to extreme rainfall and poor drainage.

Now I have browning of the established fescue turf only in these areas...

What should I apply (or amend) to remedy this situation?


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## bert0168 (Jan 28, 2008)

TimelessQuality said:


> Hey googles,
> I have a heavy clay soil that's been submerged (in spots) due to extreme rainfall and poor drainage.
> 
> Now I have browning of the established fescue turf only in these areas...
> ...


Interesting, no reply, thats what I expected.


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

bert0168 said:


> Interesting, no reply, thats what I expected.


He's googling it now, he'll be right back:laughing:


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

The best way to pour that much by yourself is to open all the bags and place in the form dry. Then add water and mix by hand with hoe or a small roto tiller. If you use the tiller, be careful not to work up the ground beneath as that will weaken the slab.

Keep adding water til the mix is about the same as lumpy pancake mix. Screed it off and float it down. It should be ready for foot trafic in about a week.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

dakzaag said:


> The best way to pour that much by yourself is to open all the bags and place in the form dry. Then add water and mix by hand with hoe or a small roto tiller. If you use the tiller, be careful not to work up the ground beneath as that will weaken the slab.
> 
> Keep adding water til the mix is about the same as lumpy pancake mix. Screed it off and float it down. It should be ready for foot trafic in about a week.
> 
> :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Now that's just ....
cynical. :laughing:

Really, I scratch mixed and
barrowed a 20X 20 basement slab
while another guy placed and screeded.


It's something everyone should do.
*Once!*
:clap::laughing::laughing:


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Best way I know is to prep the pad, order the crete and lure a mason away from the bar with a case of beer.:thumbup:


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Let the beatings begin.:shutup:


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## googles (Jul 20, 2010)

TimelessQuality said:


> Hey googles,
> I have a heavy clay soil that's been submerged (in spots) due to extreme rainfall and poor drainage.
> 
> Now I have browning of the established fescue turf only in these areas...
> ...


 


PA woodbutcher said:


> He's googling it now, he'll be right back:laughing:





bert0168 said:


> Interesting, no reply, thats what I expected.


 

To all the rest that was kind enough to take the time out and answer my question I appreciate it greatly. Like I said I do landscaping and I always stayed away from any mason work because I am not a mason. Leave that to the pros. So I was just asking since it was something I was doing at my own house. Well thanks too all that helped out. It will save me time and hassle.

Hey TimelessQuality most likely its fungus since you said its heavy rain.


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

I have noticed that alot of youse guys up north call a concrete finisher a mason. Around here a mason lays brick, block and stone. A concrete finisher is called.....a concrete finisher. 

Is that just a Yankee thing, or are us hillbillys missing something?


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

mudpad said:


> I have noticed that alot of youse guys up north call a concrete finisher a mason. Around here a mason lays brick, block and stone. A concrete finisher is called.....a concrete finisher.
> 
> Is that just a Yankee thing, or are us hillbillys missing something?


I'm north and waaaaay west and I agree with you Mudpad.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

mudpad said:


> Around here the only thing I can think of that comes in 90# bags is straight portland.


and my buddy's stuff when his wife threw him out.:laughing:


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

griz said:


> and my buddy's stuff when his wife threw him out.:laughing:


:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## mudpad (Dec 26, 2008)

Gus Dering said:


> But you won't find a conveyor truck or a front end chute truck. Go figure because I love the heck out of those too.


I won't use a ready mix plant that doesnt have front dumps any more. Since about 5 years ago they have pretty much gone to front dumps exclusively. 

The last rear dump I had on a job ran over my foreman's foot. The company is still buying him orthopaedic work boots from that one!


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## Cjeff (Dec 14, 2009)

Rear chutes is all we have hear, no pumpers either, wheelbarrow all the way


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