# Cultured Stone 45 degree corners



## supra88

What if I made a single cut to one side of the mating stones and kept the othe other stone square - then alternate this down the edge. This will break up the line and reduce the number of cuts. Thoughts? Thanks for all of your input, it's giving me a good understanding of what options I have.


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## loneframer

supra88 said:


> What if I made a single cut to one side of the mating stones and kept the othe other stone square - then alternate this down the edge. This will break up the line and reduce the number of cuts. Thoughts? Thanks for all of your input, it's giving me a good understanding of what options I have.


 The only way they will look like real stone is for opposing sides to match. the best way to achieve this is for both sides to be of the same stone. As for the $800, I think it's a good number. If there is room in the budget to take the long road, make the extra cuts. If your not happy with the finished product $800 is not a deal at all.:thumbsup:


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## supra88

Can you cut cultured stone with a diamond blade on a miter saw or do I need a wet saw?


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## loneframer

supra88 said:


> Can you cut cultured stone with a diamond blade on a miter saw or do I need a wet saw?


 I'd go wetsaw for sure, but not sure about other options.


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## jomama

I know we've ordered 45 degree corners before, although there are limited options.
We usually take that into consideration early on, becauseit can really limit your selections.
If you cant find a manufacturer or style in 45 (or the time), I would definately alternate as stated above. We too hav done it many times with OK results.


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## jciotti7

*45 degree cuts*



supra88 said:


> What if I made a single cut to one side of the mating stones and kept the othe other stone square - then alternate this down the edge. This will break up the line and reduce the number of cuts. Thoughts? Thanks for all of your input, it's giving me a good understanding of what options I have.


 Thats what I was trying to convey. I did a 30' high section on the front of a house like that and and it even looked good to me and I'm pretty fussy. The thicker the stone the better. Protruding the uncut stones out a little helps too. Experiment a little.


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## CR2

I would like people to understand that cultured stone was created to mimic the natural product, which was always used for its availability, density and durability,civilizations that created unmatched art pieces with other materials, used natural stone, mostly for its properties and in rustic ways(with some exceptions) ; rustic look and time had just made most of this structures to appear to our eyes beautiful and larger than life; I think every stone mason should try to replicate the look of our predecesors' finished products and people should understand that we are working with stone (or CS), not finish carpentry, not jewelry, not PERFECTION, stone work was always meant to be imperfect but precise, rustic, tough and opulent, not like an enhanced digital picture, that's what make stone work beautiful and real(or look like it), all the new available products should be used with the real thing in mind, there's not a PICTURE PERFECT stone work, and trying to achieve it will look PLASTIC.
Regards!


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## Tscarborough

Most 45 degree real stonework I have seen looks exactly like that picture.


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## supra88

I just had a mason bid on the job. He said he doesn't use lathe, rather he uses cement type board with thinset/adhesive. Is this a good option? How will this look with a tight stack set up?


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## NJ Brickie

For indoor applications a backer board with thinset is ok. I did a woodstove surround in my house that way. You do not have the elements to deal with inside and this way will give you less total weight on the wall.


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## laybrick

jamb the 2 sides up plumb, then miter the face ones nice & tight to the outer face of the jamb. Over cut the miters a bit so the tip goes in as tight as possible. It blends it really nice & kinda hides the miter from stareing right at ya. I use two angle grinders with 4 inch diamond cutting wheels without the guard for more versitility, & a chop saw with a 14 inch diamond blade wich is good for the occasional long cut, miters, & cutting sills. Seems like wet cuts contribute to sloppiness, no matter how clean you are.


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## dbrons

> Protruding the uncut stones out a little helps too. Experiment a little.


Good tip. As a general rule for any cultured stone that must be cut - choose a skinny one so the more natural edge of the stone next to it will protrude out past and help hide the cut.

I like the tip also to make 45s out of a long piece so the ins and outs at the cut will match (kinda). 

I used to do a lot of cultured stone though less lately. And yes I've done some 45s. But one thing is, and it's true even of natural stone veneer - there are certain things you cannot do with them and have it look believable. It's part of the trade-off of working with veneer. 

Someone getting a wall for $2000 that would cost $8000 to build with real stone is likely to look past the miter joint running up the wall, but to a stone mason it's not going to look right. 


Dave


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