# Tips/Tricks for Large Cutouts Around Electrical Boxes!



## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

I'm curious what the group does when they encounter a switch/outlet whose "ears" are not supported against the drywall because the opening was cut too large? 

Hearing neat tips/tricks from folks from all over the country is my fav part about this forum.

Regards,

Harry.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Fix it with hot mud, preferably before painting. In old work, green spacers. Look like mini Legos.


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## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks Golden. any idea who makes the green spacers? my google-fu is bringing up all types of things related to "green spacers"


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

http://www.lowes.com/pd_117701-12704-172451L_?PL=1&productId=1213367


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## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

Robie said:


> http://www.lowes.com/pd_117701-12704-172451L_?PL=1&productId=1213367


Awesome! What's the application like in this scenario ? Fold the space against the screw hole, screw the switch/outlet into the spacer and into the gang box at until your desired depth?


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

...


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## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

Perfect. Thanks!!


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

We call them caterpillars.....


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

I do this alot when tiling backslpashes. 

I buy the 100 packs of 1 3/4 #6 screws because i need them for the extra leingth. I have taken to using the little nuts as a chaser to get the standoff you need. You can get to the point where you tighten the nut aginst the outlet just as you get to the proper distance out.

or I just pack it with wet Grout and call it a WIN :thumbup:


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

hboogz said:


> I'm curious what the group does when they encounter a switch/outlet whose "ears" are not supported against the drywall because the opening was cut too large?
> 
> Hearing neat tips/tricks from folks from all over the country is my fav part about this forum.
> 
> ...


fibafuse it:thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

icerock drywall said:


> fibafuse it:thumbsup:


fibafuse it:clap:


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## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

icerock drywall said:


> fibafuse it:thumbsup:


add green lid mud or hot mud around the opening and cut and apply fibafuse? I'm sure i can find tons of posts about fibafuse, but in short what's the difference than just using mesh tape?


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

hboogz said:


> add green lid mud or hot mud around the opening and cut and apply fibafuse? I'm sure i can find tons of posts about fibafuse, but in short what's the difference than just using mesh tape?


fibafuse keeps it shape...it dose not sag down.sometimes I use both .this is just a tapecoat with a 1.5'' gap. see no sagging


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

A sparky showed me how he does it.. He carries a length of plastic tubing and just cuts it to the length he needs


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

tape coat and with ff its all most gone ap mud only


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

here is a bad outlet in a seam ...fixed and cover with fibafuse and boxed over...cut out after 3rd coat


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

hboogz said:


> add green lid mud or hot mud around the opening and cut and apply fibafuse? I'm sure i can find tons of posts about fibafuse, but in short what's the difference than just using mesh tape?


no need for durabond or ezsand when you use fibafuse ...I lite to use AP with mud max ///if you were doing a quick patch I would use hot mud:clap:


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## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

awesome thanks for the great pics. I was beginning to think I was the only one with really bad drywall cutouts.

Suppose I should start another thread on the tips/tricks needed for accurate cuts everytime. Lord knows i'm no pro drywaller and i'm sure I will need these tricks for some of my future work... Still curious about the lipstick trick i've heard of marking the outside of boxes, then placing the drywall against the box.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

hboogz said:


> I will need these tricks for some of my future work... Still curious about the lipstick trick i've heard of marking the outside of boxes, then placing the drywall against the box.


Screw that. Tack it up, use a RotoZip with a guide bit.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

hboogz said:


> awesome thanks for the great pics. I was beginning to think I was the only one with really bad drywall cutouts.
> 
> Suppose I should start another thread on the tips/tricks needed for accurate cuts everytime. Lord knows i'm no pro drywaller and i'm sure I will need these tricks for some of my future work... Still curious about the lipstick trick i've heard of marking the outside of boxes, then placing the drywall against the box.


I did not do the hanging...I am just a finisher ,,,I here this alot" can you fix that"


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## ToolNut (Aug 9, 2012)

That's OK the finisher can fix it.


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## TiM Management (Jul 18, 2013)

CrpntrFrk said:


> Screw that. Tack it up, use a RotoZip with a guide bit.


Easiest route to go. If you're worried about the router making too big of a hole because the tabs are on already, then take measurements of the center of the box, cut out a hole big enough to fish it through then route it....


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

TiM Management said:


> Easiest route to go. If you're worried about the router making too big of a hole because the tabs are on already, then take measurements of the center of the box, cut out a hole big enough to fish it through then route it....


Ya lost me... could you elaborate


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## Stevarino (Sep 28, 2013)

3/8 water supply line. We always have pieces from installing the fixtures. I cut pieces to the size I need and use them as spacer washers and tighten the screws down. I've even used longer drywall screws in the plastic boxes when the original ones weren't long enough.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

icerock drywall said:


> fibafuse it:clap:


Remember every box of Straight Flex had a package of repair patches?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Ya lost me... could you elaborate


Before you hang the sheet, cut an undersized hole at the correct location, loosen the device screws so it's free of the box, then bring the device through the hole when you hang the sheet. Once it's hung, route out the box (with the device still hanging clear of the wall).

Personally, I'll usually do the cutout to size before hanging - no sense messing with it twice.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

Big Shoe said:


> Remember every box of Straight Flex had a package of repair patches?


my fibafuse repair patch is way better ...also dry time is faster


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## michhawk17 (Mar 31, 2014)

pull measurements from all four corners. mark it. square it. cut it. hands on it once and you're just gonna get faster.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

michhawk17 said:


> pull measurements from all four corners. mark it. square it. cut it. hands on it once and you're just gonna get faster.


That worked great In 1979!


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## hboogz (Aug 26, 2013)

I'm a bit hesitant on taking a rotozip to a metal gang box, but I suppose you learn through experience.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

hboogz said:


> I'm a bit hesitant on taking a rotozip to a metal gang box, but I suppose you learn through experience.


Metal or plastic ..A good router operator should be able to handle both without any issues. It's the dollar store boxes they hate the most . The light blue ones that twist up when nailed to the stud. [paper thin plastic]


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

A sparky showed me how to use a wire nut . He cut off the closed end of a wire nut and placed it between the box and outlet ,worked great .


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Fastest tip I know: metal cover plate.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Golden view said:


> Fastest tip I know: metal cover plate.


Yeah but to get the screw started you need to shim the back of the box a little, I suggest a folded up piece of cardboard that a Big Mac came in. :laughing:


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## ubcguy89 (Mar 23, 2013)

If you gotta patch more than two or three get different hangers! I just hung 1200 sheets 70 offices 5-8 boxes per room I hung about 900 myself all 5/8 9' standups I had 4 bad boxes all where my bit broke


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## pritch (Nov 2, 2008)

I made this tool to check the size to see if there is a problem. I use it more for device cutouts in masonry than sheetrock, but it ends all argument over whether the cover plate is going to cover the hole:



















They are pretty simple to make. Drill and tap the center of an outlet to take a drawer pull-8/32? The next size bigger than the size that's in the outlet, anyway, and then use a couple of pop rivets through the mounting holes. Leave them loose enough that the rivets can move. That way, you can also check to see if it's possible to get the device plumb if the box ain't.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

pritch said:


> I made this tool to check the size to see if there is a problem. I use it more for device cutouts in masonry than sheetrock, but it ends all argument over whether the cover plate is going to cover the hole:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've never been called on it... but is there any code as to cutout exceeding box dimensions......

(I'm aware of1/4 set back in depth if drywall/non=flamable)


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

1/8" max gap.


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## Unger.const (Jun 3, 2012)

Assuming the plate covers it but just need to shim out the plug, I like to use a springs. I get a box of them from home depot. Misc sizes and strengths just put it behind the ear run your screw throw ear then through spring then into gang box and tighten down til flush. No more guessing at depth for cutting tube price or how many spacers to fold to get correct.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

pritch said:


> I made this tool to check the size to see if there is a problem. I use it more for device cutouts in masonry than sheetrock, but it ends all argument over whether the cover plate is going to cover the hole:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Can't argue with that. :thumbup:


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