# Round 2- What do you other pros use to putty nail holes prior to painting?



## vandyandsons (Dec 23, 2008)

I am talking about trim now...

I use glazing putty mixed with powder durabond.

I make a ball with the glazing putty and roll it around in a bag of durabond. I work the powder into the putty ball to dry it out and take off the "stickyness"

Works like a champ for me.


----------



## DRC (Dec 4, 2008)

I do the same but use pumice instead of durabond.


----------



## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

a wet sponge. It shrinks the holes around the nail and it disappears


----------



## vandyandsons (Dec 23, 2008)

rbs,

i have no idea what you are talking about, please explain


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

I like Fast'N Final, it swells a tad
when it dries, and just a swipe or 
two and it's sanded.


----------



## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

You sink the nail a bit further than normal with the nail punch. You wipe the area around the nail with a wet sponge. The wood closes up around the nail. Nail disappears. Works good with pine


----------



## gallerytungsten (Jul 5, 2007)

*MH Ready Patch*

I use the MH Ready Patch, but I may try the glazing putty with Durabond.


----------



## WisePainter (Sep 16, 2008)

Crawford's Putty.


----------



## Mellison (Aug 3, 2008)

Elmers Wood putty.
Dries fast, sands easy, no shrinky.


----------



## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

spackle or wood filler, if I use wood filler I will usually mix a little water in it to make it easier to work with.


----------



## vandyandsons (Dec 23, 2008)

I like glazing putty with durabond because it saves an additional trip to the surface because it doesnt shrink causing a 2nd time around and there is no sanding needed. 

Literally, just plug up the hole and wipe with your finger. One application, No sanding at all. I've tried most other ways and this to me was the fastest and cleanest.

We used to use the "shrink free spackle" on big production jobs. The only problem was, it shrank too much. My foreman thought it was unacceptable to have to run it with a 2nd application of spackle so he says "pile it on once." That filled the hole alright, but the apprentices were sanding forever.

We switched to the glazing/durabond and startedmaking crazy time with fantastic quality.


----------



## StefanC (Apr 14, 2009)

Mellison said:


> Elmers Wood putty.
> Dries fast, sands easy, no shrinky.


That's what we've been using lately with great results.


----------



## antnepi (Aug 26, 2008)

Elmers wood putty works the best for me. it works better when it dries out a little IMO.


----------



## Dustyrose (Feb 13, 2009)

Play Dough


----------



## Mr. Mike (Dec 27, 2008)

I always give two prices for this one a High price for Elmers Wood putty and one cheaper price for the painters putty method.:thumbsup:


----------



## Dave Mac (Jan 30, 2006)

WisePainter said:


> Crawford's Putty.


:thumbsup: me to


----------



## Dave Mac (Jan 30, 2006)

Mr. Mike said:


> I always give two prices for this one a High price for Elmers Wood putty and one cheaper price for the painters putty method.:thumbsup:


:blink::laughing::w00t:


----------



## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Painters Putty:whistling that's what it was made for, glazing leaves oil spots and takes longer to dry.


----------



## We Fix Houses (Aug 15, 2007)

Most of my work is remodeling / repair and I paint most of it. The customer is going to look at the work pretty closely. I use Durhams Rock Hard Wood Putty. Mixes easy and dries in 45 min. Touch it with some #80 or #100, done. No dimples.

Additions, larger work I've used latex painters putty in a ball. But not doing those now. I go into McMansions and see dimples all over the trim. I heard about Crawford's on these forums and would use it for the next med sized job. I can get it at SW.


----------



## waynec (Feb 17, 2009)

I'm with Vandy. We use glazing and mix it with plaster of paris. This dries it out for ease of use but also prevents it from shrinking. Works great for us.


----------



## StefanC (Apr 14, 2009)

We used to use Crawfords, but after spraying the trim we'd still see some dimples here and there.


----------



## WisePainter (Sep 16, 2008)

StefanC said:


> We used to use Crawfords, but after spraying the trim we'd still see some dimples here and there.


Crawford's is a product that takes some getting used to, adding white to it helps.


----------



## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

neolitic said:


> I like Fast'N Final, it swells a tad
> when it dries, and just a swipe or
> two and it's sanded.


Fast'N'Final as well, or One Time.


----------



## Mr. Mike (Dec 27, 2008)

> Originally Posted by *Mr. Mike*
> _I always give two prices for this one a High price for Elmers Wood putty and one cheaper price for the painters putty method.:thumbsup:_



Oops, I use a wood filler and I think it is an elmers product all I know is it has to be sanded, and my cheap price is for putty. Putty shows and the wood filler does not.


----------



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Mellison said:


> Elmers Wood putty.
> Dries fast, sands easy, no shrinky.


Ditto.


----------



## vandyandsons (Dec 23, 2008)

Frankawitz said:


> Painters Putty:whistling that's what it was made for, glazing leaves oil spots and takes longer to dry.



work some powder durabond into that glazing putty ball...no more oil spots. i used straight glazing putty by itself once and every hole burned right through. 

i find that painters putty shrinks too much vs. glazing putty that doesn't shrink at all, and when flopped around in some durabond powder, won't bleed through.


----------



## capital city (Mar 29, 2008)

vandyandsons said:


> work some powder durabond into that glazing putty ball...no more oil spots. i used straight glazing putty by itself once and every hole burned right through.
> 
> i find that painters putty shrinks too much vs. glazing putty that doesn't shrink at all, and when flopped around in some durabond powder, won't bleed through.


I used the glazing and powder mix today. I was using straight glazing before. Makes sense and appeared to work, will see when I go back and paint tomorrow. Thanks for the tip


----------



## vandyandsons (Dec 23, 2008)

the key is to periodically flop that putty ball in the powder to keep it dry, yet workable. it sure is nice not having to sand out the trim.

let me know how it worked.


----------



## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I'm not a painter, but always have one following my work. I thought you were supposed to prime first so the nail hole/head is primed, and then fill the hole. Comments?


----------



## BryanG (Jun 16, 2009)

In track houses we use the glazing compound mixed with a little bit of Durabond to make it easier to work with. I've done alot of high end residential, and we do the glazing compound for the first coat and then we come back and put woodfiller over top of the compound to prevent shrinking! The problem with the glazing compound is that it does shrink and you will sometimes get "fish eyes" in your trim work!


----------



## Workaholic (Feb 3, 2007)

Crawfords


----------



## silvertree (Jul 22, 2007)

Wrigleys, flavors lasts and works with both oil and latex paints.


----------



## CTDiesel (May 13, 2009)

Never had any problems with One Time.


----------



## Crock (Mar 8, 2009)

rbsremodeling said:


> a wet sponge. It shrinks the holes around the nail and it disappears


and throw some sawdust at it.:laughing:


----------



## jmda (Apr 3, 2008)

I usually use glazing mixed with some whiting or quick set powder

But also use MH Ready Patch, which I sometimes use to fill shallow dents and scratches in trim.


----------



## Cache (Sep 18, 2007)

We Fix Houses said:


> Most of my work is remodeling / repair and I paint most of it. The customer is going to look at the work pretty closely. I use Durhams Rock Hard Wood Putty. Mixes easy and dries in 45 min. Touch it with some #80 or #100, done. No dimples.
> 
> Additions, larger work I've used latex painters putty in a ball. But not doing those now. I go into McMansions and see dimples all over the trim. I heard about Crawford's on these forums and would use it for the next med sized job. I can get it at SW.


Not a painter, but my painter is. :w00t:

Anyway, if you do anything high end I would stay away from Crawfords if you don't have time to get used to it. *MANY* nail holes left visible after using it, even with a decent amount of practice. Your first few jobs you'll almost certainly end up refilling a ton of holes. 

I guess some people don't mind a bit of a dimple showing through on every hole, but for my houses, it is completely unacceptable. For this my guy uses fast n final.


----------



## Cache (Sep 18, 2007)

Mr. Mike said:


> Oops, I use a wood filler and I think it is an elmers product all I know is it has to be sanded, and my cheap price is for putty. Putty shows and the wood filler does not.


Incredibly correct post.:thumbup:


----------



## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

I'm with RBS, and silvertree, thoes are the old school methods we used to use, but now we gradutated it one step further, we just shoot our nails perfectly flat with the wood. No filler needed. Works real gooder. :thumbsup:


----------



## RickS (Jun 9, 2009)

Mike Finley said:


> I'm with RBS, and silvertree, thoes are the old school methods we used to use, but now we gradutated it one step further, we just shoot our nails perfectly flat with the wood. No filler needed. Works real gooder. :thumbsup:


In my experience, that's easier said than done. But, if it works for you, then kudos!


----------



## ChrWright (Jul 17, 2007)

Nail holes? What nail holes? Blind fastening is the way to go.


----------

