# Best Practices for Hanging Drywall



## klintala (Aug 2, 2014)

What do you believe is the best way to hang drywall?

I've heard a lot of mixed things.

I was taught to glue and screw 16" o.c. (for walls)

Recently we had a basement remodel where almost every singe nail popped. I did a bit of research and found a lot of differing opinions. I also saw some guys even brought it up in a recent thread on here about repairing nail pops.

I've read ideas about glue shrinking and pulling the board to the wall causing the screws to pop. On the other hand I've heard that glue is the only way to get the drywall to not move against the stud.

If you do glue, do you use globs or streaks?
How many screw per stud?


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## Bradcon (Sep 9, 2015)

I personally don't glue my drywall. All screws and no nails. But the absolute best way to deal with drywall is to have someone else do it!


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Screws no glue. 10" in the field, 6" to 8" on edges.


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

I never use glue and always use screws.Doubles in the field and staggered on the joints.Never had a problem.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Wet lumber is probably one of the main reasons for pops.


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## cdkyle (Jul 12, 2009)

Always screw, no glue. Always, other than a few sheets, sub it out to the pros.


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## Walraven (Jan 24, 2014)

Walls we screw perimeter only glue the center. Glue blobs 8" oc 
Ceilings perimeter screws one in the center glue blobs 8" ov again , no glue within 6" of a screw.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

klintala said:


> Recently we had a basement remodel where almost every singe nail popped. I did a bit of research and found a lot of differing opinions. I also saw some guys even brought it up in a recent thread on here about repairing nail pops.


My opinion- 

The framing was soaking wet (just taken out of a river). Shrunk big time. Glue did not adhere well due to the moisture.

And another likely factor, if this is recent, the cold snap y'all experienced aided or just outright drying the framing out. 

Or

Screw applicator error, 95% of the time. Board is not tight to the framing and - or the paper is broke (screw over driven)


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Glue obviously reduces the number of fasteners but for glue to bond better you usually need to make contact then stretch it open the reattach. The chemical reaction is better.

Some feel it helps keep boards flatter because it floats a little more than drawing tight to stud. Meh.....I dont glue. I sometime fasten in pairs that are grouped a couple of inches apart. Like the first note in the Table says.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Lots of glue on walls, with very few screws in the field. Screws that aren't there, can't pop.


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## klintala (Aug 2, 2014)

Warren said:


> Lots of glue on walls, with very few screws in the field. Screws that aren't there, can't pop.


That was my initial thought, but the IRC says you still need screws 24"o.c. so you're only saving 1 screw per stud.. If you follow them.

I've heard of people screwing the perimeter and only using 2 screws in the field (per 8-10').

The idea of more glue and less screws appeals to me, but I think that's only because I come from a background of glueing.

Also, I'd say more times than not, when we demo, drywall is glued.

I'm just curious to see if there is a general consensus or the pros and cons of different techniques.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

*to glue or not*

Iam thinking maybe glue is good on metal studs.


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

Everyone is an expert these days but the last "smart guy" that I talked to about this very exact question told me to NEVER glue drywall to the studs. He said it was because you have to give the drywall and studs enough flexibility to shift with changes in temperature and humidity.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

tedanderson said:


> Everyone is an expert these days but the last "smart guy" that I talked to about this very exact question told me to NEVER glue drywall to the studs. He said it was because you have to give the drywall and studs enough flexibility to shift with changes in temperature and humidity.


A lot of pops come from the person who installed the drywall breaking the paper with the screw or damaging the surrounding rock with a rock hammer when hammering in the nail... the second half comes from the person who spackles not addressing either...


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

KAP said:


> A lot of pops come from the person who installed the drywall breaking the paper with the screw or damaging the surrounding rock with a rock hammer when hammering in the nail... the second half comes from the person who spackles not addressing either...


Thats true,,,I see a lot of guys using impact drivers to hang drywall.Lots of screws set to deep.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

klintala said:


> That was my initial thought, but the IRC says you still need screws 24"o.c. so you're only saving 1 screw per stud.. If you follow them.
> 
> I've heard of people screwing the perimeter and only using 2 screws in the field (per 8-10').
> 
> ...


In the late 80s. early 90s, I started building "energy efficient" houses per the Detroit Edison program (they offered the home buyer major money).

So 4 or 6 mil poly on the wall studs and ceilings ( I forget which mil) before drywall. Obviously, no point in gluing.

In the early 2000s, I checked in on a couple of them - no nail/screw pops. No tape breakouts either, which tells me 90% of the battle is good and experienced hangers who give a damn.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I do both, depending on what is needed. Do not over glue, and I don't use water based glue - it shrinks a lot.


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## antonioooooooo (Mar 8, 2010)

This would be a trade where every turnip out there thinks he is a professional at. Then you watch the retardation set in as they start the first sheet. Come back 20 minutes later and paper is torn everywhere, corners are busted, screws are set too deep (or proud), and the first thing they blame is somehow YOUR framing caused this.


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## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

Hmm...16 screws per sheet...guess I'm doing it wrong?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Driftweed said:


> Hmm...16 screws per sheet...guess I'm doing it wrong?


That's a little light on the edges...


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Russ in AK said:


> I said "flipped around," as in the white side toward the stud and the brown side facing out.


That would be upside down


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## Russ in AK (Mar 4, 2016)

A&E Exteriors said:


> That would be upside down


To me, that's just "backwards". "Upside down" is when an object is inverted. Don't see how you can really "invert" a sheet of drywall, as there is no designated "top" or "bottom".

In any event, is that common in your area?


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Russ in AK said:


> I said "flipped around," as in the white side toward the stud and the brown side facing out.


Hey !!! As ****ed up as the seams are these days!! That may not be a bad idea!!!:laughing:


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Russ in AK said:


> To me, that's just "backwards". "Upside down" is when an object is inverted. Don't see how you can really "invert" a sheet of drywall, as there is no designated "top" or "bottom".


Come on man !!! Don't get all techy .....White side out !!!


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Russ in AK said:


> To me, that's just "backwards". "Upside down" is when an object is inverted. Don't see how you can really "invert" a sheet of drywall, as there is no designated "top" or "bottom".
> 
> In any event, is that common in your area?


Never seen it done


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

Russ in AK said:


> Sarcasm? Maybe I'm missing something...
> 
> 
> 
> Which part?


The butt boards are fine. But putting the drywall wrong side out is just plain stupid. There's no advantage to doing that. I would bet the mud wont bond correctly.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

A&E Exteriors said:


> Never seen it done


I'll 2nd that! Maybe It's an igloo thang?


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

The only time I can think of doing that is when I worked for the commercial guy and he wanted back side out in the furnace rooms.

What - he thought it was more fireproof?

hellifiknow

And I've probably cut one or more fancy repair pieces and measured from the wrong side but stuck them on anyway. That'd be about it.


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## Russ in AK (Mar 4, 2016)

mike d. said:


> The butt boards are fine. But putting the drywall wrong side out is just plain stupid. There's no advantage to doing that. I would bet the mud wont bond correctly.


Don't know that I'd call it "stupid". The theory is sound, in my mind. Because of the way the edges are contoured, putting the brown side out results in a shallower, narrower gap to be filled.

Never seen a problem with the mud not bonding correctly.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

Russ in AK said:


> Don't know that I'd call it "stupid". The theory is sound, in my mind. Because of the way the edges are contoured, putting the brown side out results in a shallower, narrower gap to be filled.
> 
> Never seen a problem with the mud not bonding correctly.


Ok, but if I hired a drywall sub and they hung it like that I'd throw them the hell off the job.Ask a drywall manufacturer ,,I have,,,they will tell you the same


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## Russ in AK (Mar 4, 2016)

mike d. said:


> Ok, but if I hired a drywall sub and they hung it like that I'd throw them the hell off the job.Ask a drywall manufacturer ,,I have,,,they will tell you the same


Okay. Be that as it may, I'm not trying to argue for one method over another. Simply stating what I've seen done.

The contractors I've seen do this are all doing $50-100 million worth of work per year. I get the feeling they've figured out what works, and what methods they prefer for doing different things. 

I'll chalk it up to another example of regional differences in construction methods and techniques.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

White side out !! Brown side to the stud!


It ain't rocket surgery !! :no:


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

There's a reason the edges of drywall are tapered on the "white" side but not on the other. At least I thought so until now. :blink:


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

Russ in AK said:


> Okay. Be that as it may, I'm not trying to argue for one method over another. Simply stating what I've seen done.
> 
> The contractors I've seen do this are all doing $50-100 million worth of work per year. I get the feeling they've figured out what works, and what methods they prefer for doing different things.
> 
> I'll chalk it up to another example of regional differences in construction methods and techniques.


I guess but when I think I have seen a lot of techniques in 30+ years in the trades someone comes up with even more. Maybe thats what makes the world go round,,,:thumbsup:


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

blacktop said:


> White side out !! Brown side to the stud!
> 
> 
> It ain't rocket surgery !! :no:


"rocket sergury" 

meheheheheheh


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> And I've probably cut one or more fancy repair pieces and measured from the wrong side but stuck them on anyway. That'd be about it.


Now that I have done! Back In the day when we did the old FHA 24x40s that took 80 boards and they loaded them with 78 boards ... And we made a wrong cut on a ceiling board ?? It went wrong side up!! :whistling


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I read the backside can be hung "flipped" for paneling backing. But the back paper is not meant to be finished as it is far more porus.

And as tin said, the taper is on the edges to be able to embed the tape.


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## Russ in AK (Mar 4, 2016)

A&E Exteriors said:


> I read the backside can be hung "flipped" for paneling backing. But the back paper is not meant to be finished as it is far more porus.
> 
> And as tin said, the taper is on the edges to be able to embed the tape.


That would probably explain it then. All the places I've seen it done were in instances where FRP or some other paneling was being installed.


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## kapena (Aug 20, 2004)

I recall an architect telling me that walls sheathed with drywall are sometimes meant to also act as shear walls, where they help to stiffen a structure against heavy winds, earthquakes, etc. This might be especially so when using metal studs. 
If the drywall is going to help the building resist racking, I have trouble seeing how glue will help as much. Glue would seem to only be resisting movement on the inside cardboard surface, which is not nearly as strong as a screw which is resisting movement using both inside and outside cardboard surfaces along with the rock thickness against the screw.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

kapena said:


> I recall an architect telling me that walls sheathed with drywall are sometimes meant to also act as shear walls, where they help to stiffen a structure against heavy winds, earthquakes, etc. This might be especially so when using metal studs.
> If the drywall is going to help the building resist racking, I have trouble seeing how glue will help as much. Glue would seem to only be resisting movement on the inside cardboard surface, which is not nearly as strong as a screw which is resisting movement using both inside and outside cardboard surfaces along with the rock thickness against the screw.


I am sure there is an approved screw schedule in those cases


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## Rio (Oct 13, 2009)

While drywall does have shear value, where there are substantial seismic loads it can't be used for shear as it only works once. When the building wiggles back and forth that's if for the shear value of it. This also applies to stucco which has more shear value than drywall but also can't be used in calculations in a seismically active region.


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