# Concrete counter tops



## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

I'm going to be remodeling 2 kitchens in a duplex I own. I've never done concrete tops, but would like to try it on one of my own houses first. Is there anything I should know before starting? What is involved in upkeep with them? Good idea or bad?


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## bmartin (Dec 30, 2005)

I've had them for about 7 years in my house. I like them and they have been pretty durable. Mine are acid stained and I seal them with a tile and granite sealer and they still look pretty good. I have to be careful of citrus juice on the counters because it cuts thru the sealer.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Ask Madrina.


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

it all depends on what your expectations are. they will stain, no question about it. if you slop on some sort of high tech urethane they won't stain for a while… but then when that fails you'll be refinishing a car in your kitchen. the alternative, a sealer as mentioned above or any option won't give you great protection. learn to live with the stains and accept the patina, just like copper. its totally possible to set down a glass and have a water ring stay for a short time or long time.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

hdavis said:


> Ask Madrina.


:laughing: Gel Coat kind of defeats the purpose and look of concrete :clap:


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)

Ive done a few...sealer every other year and your good. same as granite with the right product.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

I think I'm going to make a few for the bathrooms and see how it goes.


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

jlsconstruction said:


> I think I'm going to make a few for the bathrooms and see how it goes.


good call. the world of boutique concrete mixes is crazy. if your going to go some sort of bag mix run quikrete 5000 with extra cement. makes a decent mix, really straight forward.


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)

I mixed my own, played with GFRC for the last one. It was WAY cheaper to make my own mix than by a prebagged.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

You have to decide if you are going to pre-cast or pour in place. I prefer pre-cast. Your form work needs to be precise. If its in the form, it will be in your top. For your first couple pours, try the Cheng admix. It's fairly inexpensive and uses stock bag mix. It will get you started. if you like it, start experimenting with your own recipe. There is a lot of info out there on good mixes with high psi and flexural strength. Don't go thinner than 1-1/2".


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)

overanalyze said:


> You have to decide if you are going to pre-cast or pour in place. I prefer pre-cast. Your form work needs to be precise. If its in the form, it will be in your top. For your first couple pours, try the Cheng admix. It's fairly inexpensive and uses stock bag mix. It will get you started. if you like it, start experimenting with your own recipe. There is a lot of info out there on good mixes with high psi and flexural strength. Don't go thinner than 1-1/2".


Depends on the mix and if fiber is added. I have a table top thats only about 3/8" thick with no issues. 

I made a table for a competition that was also no more than 3/8". Left outside for years, it was good until a tree fell on it....


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)




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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Dan_Watson said:


> Depends on the mix and if fiber is added. I have a table top thats only about 3/8" thick with no issues.
> 
> I made a table for a competition that was also no more than 3/8". Left outside for years, it was good until a tree fell on it....


I totally agree you can do thinner, but for a first top, I wouldn't recommend it. I love that fire top Dan! Very cool!


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)

overanalyze said:


> I totally agree you can do thinner, but for a first top, I wouldn't recommend it. I love that fire top Dan! Very cool!


Gotchya. 

It was awesome. I wish I had a place to use it. I lost that one, so when it comes time to have my own outdoor space I will make another. I want to come up with a way of doing some BBQ or cooking right there. Maybe a rack or even a small spit. Sit around the table, drink and cook up some kabobs.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

It will be pre cast, I don't trust myself enough to do it on top of new cabinets


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

For the ultimate easy vanity top, plan on a vessel sink. The only two things you will need to form in place will be the faucet hole and the vessel drain hole.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

For some inspiration, my counter guy:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Monolith-Project/206596160294


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

overanalyze said:


> For the ultimate easy vanity top, plan on a vessel sink. The only two things you will need to form in place will be the faucet hole and the vessel drain hole.


I agree. 

Faucet hole, home despot has diamond hole saws, goes right through concrete with out aggregate... Like hit the staples Easy button, easy. Almost harder to form the hole in place :whistling

Play with a couple of small mock ups. You'll get a good feel fast for how and what's going on.


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

These might interest you JLS:

http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/categories/edge-profiles/


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

For admix, try the Sika "Ultimate Fortifier" (not the acrylic stuff). It's available at Home Depot; it's the same animal as the Cheng super-plasticizer/water reducer, at about 1/10th the unit price, and available right away. It will turn a stiff mix into a flowable one, or an impossibly stiff mix into an easily workable one, and make a very strong and hard top. The drawback is that if you mess up, breaking up that 400-lb behemoth will require a saw, because a sledge will just bounce off.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Texas Wax said:


> ...
> Play with a couple of small mock ups. You'll get a good feel fast for how and what's going on.


Very good advice.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

CENTERLINE MV said:


> These might interest you JLS: http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/categories/edge-profiles/


I was looking at some from a different company, but thanks


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

jlsconstruction said:


> I'm going to be remodeling 2 kitchens in a duplex I own. I've never done concrete tops, but would like to try it on one of my own houses first. Is there anything I should know before starting? What is involved in upkeep with them? Good idea or bad?


When you're done you'll realize why a good concrete top should cost as much as any other top.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

CarpenterSFO said:


> When you're done you'll realize why a good concrete top should cost as much as any other top.


If not more depending on how detailed and unique they want the pour.


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## Fundi (Jan 5, 2009)

And post how it went, even if it didnt go so well. About /----/ that close to trying myself.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

Need at leadt 5000 psi. For water resistance. I did an out door table with 5000 psi kwikcrete and a super plasticiser /water reducer. It came out very hard.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

If you search back I may have stated what sealer I used. Food grade supposed to fill the microscopic pores of the crete. I then put on a layer of Carnuba wax.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Yep. Please post pics if you go for it. I'm thinking this will be what we will do as well.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

VinylHanger said:


> Yep. Please post pics if you go for it. I'm thinking this will be what we will do as well.


 I will, plumbers and sparkys will be here wednesday and Thursday. So hopefully I'll have some time to mess around with it then


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

One thing I notice a lot of people do when starting out with concrete is they dont let it mix long enough. It needs time to hydrate while in the mixer. 

I will mix mine for a minimum of 5 minutes after the last bag is in, usually around 7, let it sit for another 5-7, then spit it slowly for another few minutes. If you mix fast and dump right away you will get a lot of bleed water and be there all day troweling, or if you pour pre cast tops, you will have water all along the top, and you could get water staining once you flip them. 

Remember to vibrate them well. I usually would put my forms up on blcoks of 2" foam so I could get my vibrator under the form and hit them good. It really cuts down on the bug holes. 

You will have to slurry the top once for sure I would think. I mix my cement with acrylic. It hardens faster, sticks better, and doesnt shrink as much.


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Is the acrylic the binder? I'm not fully sure of the terminology. I have a local guy I know who does some really nice tops. He said there was a binder(?) for sticking the cement to the crushed glass (in his case) or sticking everything together. I'm trying to recall the percentages he stated. Along the line of 85% recycled material? Does that sound right? Is it a recipe of cement, aggregate, water and binder? I'm interested as well. It's certainly interesting. Where do you get the coloring for it? Is it organic dyes?


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## madrina (Feb 21, 2013)

Did some body ring? Is this post still in the works or is it over and done with?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

madrina said:


> Did some body ring? Is this post still in the works or is it over and done with?


I haven't had time yet. Every time I think I'll have a few days to play with it something comes up


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## madrina (Feb 21, 2013)

What are the counters now? Laminate?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

madrina said:


> What are the counters now? Laminate?


Nothing, cabs aren't installed yet


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

CJKarl said:


> If you search back I may have stated what sealer I used. Food grade supposed to fill the microscopic pores of the crete. I then put on a layer of Carnuba wax.


that was a work of art..had those glow stones right?


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## madrina (Feb 21, 2013)

Is the food grade acrylic sealer that fills microscopic holes the same thing as a densifier?


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

I bought all my chemicals from these guys. Good prices and VERY helpful over the phone.
http://www.concretecountertopsupply.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=MixProducts


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