# Unleveled bathroom floor in small bathroom.



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

andeeznuts said:


> just worried if there might be a wall running in between joist long ways so if i cut plywood then isnt supported.


It sounds like you never done this before and don't have experience with framing and how framing assemblies constructed. 
Call a carpenter and see how its done so next time you feel more confident doing it yourself and you will know more or less what is going on and how framing components works. 
Don't practice on customers house and don't end up in a situation over your head. There could be other structural issues that need to be corrected and if you don't identify the cause for that sag and throw a band-aid on it, same thing will happen down the road and it will be on your head.

Good luck


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

greg24k said:


> There could... and it will be on your head.


"Yes your honor, I was the contractor that did that, but....."


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

This job is going to be a fun one. Full gut. No shortcuts. And yes, slide that tub out (without giving yourself a hernia - seriously) to fix the issue...Of course, this means disconnecting the tub drain for a little while. And so on......


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Anything happening below the bathroom that might indicate why the tub has settled with a backpitch? A wall removed or header cut for some reason? Did they turn the tub around in the first remodel cutting into more supports for the drain?


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## Doctor Handyman (Mar 13, 2012)

I just did this last month in a 1928 single story. Similar problem. Floor dropped 1" in 8.5' towards exterior wall (measured). 

Removing tub to replace with shower, drain would have been uphill.

I got lucky, because I first tore up the floor to avoid removing 5 layers of linoleum. Thought I should check joists for level, Dang! 

But that's what change orders are for.

Sistering the joists was the solution.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Are those joists 24" on center?


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## Doctor Handyman (Mar 13, 2012)

22.5" now


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## andeeznuts (Feb 21, 2008)

funny thing is i have done abunch of jobs on newer homes and for some reason the second floor has rooms that are just unlevel as hell...as i mentioned before it is on a slab, shoot it could be due to crappy concrete work...i have seen alot of this here in Virginia...check this idea out I was wondering if once all tile on floor is pulled and cbu, if you could take strips of wood taking it to what it is out of level to nothing, screw them down like every 24" and then use a thinset or leveling compound and screed across to each strip and then pulling up the strips and filling it in...and then using ditra on top......:whistling...


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

That'd be a PITA, everything would have to be scribed to the floor. Takes a lot of time to do that and get it right.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

...but it can be done.

I think the bigger issue here, Andy, is:

*Why* is the bathroom "about an" inch out, in 5 feet?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

tenon0774 said:


> ...but it can be done.


Easier to tack boards along the walls with their bottoms at the new floor height, fill under the boards, strip them, then screed to that.

Or just pour leveling compound....


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## andeeznuts (Feb 21, 2008)

Ok im gonna be honest we did one before like this and i shimmed over the plywood and over top of the joist to make it level then put 3/4 tongue and grove over it worked very well but jacked the floor up some, i told them this is how we were going to do it and they said go for it...but i kinda want to find a solution that isnt so high


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

leveling compound could be used without spacers or boards. Just put mark on the drywall starting at the lowest spot and working away from it. Be sure to stuff something between the wall and the pour to keep the leveler from running into a hole or gap. Also, provide some expansion along the wall with any soft compressible material like foam strips. Rake the leveler to smooth it out and spread the material. 

Still, you won't know what the problem is if you don't open the floor. I can't understand why the 1" sag hasn't shown up as a cracked wall below or some other symptom.


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

Adding floor leveler or concrete, and CBU, will add significant weight. Correct problem first, then have at it. I prefer floor joists at 12" OC for tile.


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