# plaster to drywall jamb dillemma



## schaefercs (Jul 10, 2008)

i'm sure i'm not the only one who has experienced this problem but with a quick search i wasn't able to find anything. i'm doing a kitchen remodel right now which required me to remove all lath and plaster and replace with 1/2" drywall. the customer wants to save all existing jambs and they have all been left in place. when i put my door and window casings on they are going to rock. previously on my own house i have used extra shoe moulding behind the casing and had pretty good results. what has everyone else done in this situation? thanks.


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## Ckconst (Apr 24, 2011)

Your going to have the gap on the drywall end of the casing as the drywall is thinner. The only way to solve this is 

1. float out the jambs with more mud on the drywall to match the existing thickness of the jamb

2. plane down the jambs

3 or if you don't mind the gaps (maybe painted trim, caulk, etc.) do as you suggested


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Two piece casing with an offset reveal. A fat strip on the drywall, and a slimmer one (more like ripped down normal casing at the jamb.


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## Hmrepairs (Sep 11, 2010)

I do what Willie said. It's not a problem, but an opportunity for a decorative detail that you can make a little money on.


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## Ckconst (Apr 24, 2011)

I agree also if you want to use the two piece casing. A very nice look, but some HO want the single look


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## Sampietro (Apr 14, 2011)

I just did a bathroom remodel with the same problem. I just ripped down some pine to the thickness that the trim was off the sheetrock. Then tacked it to the trim with a pinner and install like normal. It will have a bigger profile on the wall looks nice and it quick to do.


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## chris klee (Feb 5, 2008)

i do it all the time on painted. just rip strips of 1x to make up the difference and pin it to the back of the casing. its just makes the casing look thicker.


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## Scribbles (Mar 10, 2009)

dato the caseing to sit flat on the wall and the rock.


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## LEVELBEST (Dec 28, 2006)

Scribbles said:


> dato the caseing to sit flat on the wall and the rock.


Exactly what I was going to say. Quit piece milling it and make it fit tight. :thumbup::thumbsup:


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## Ckconst (Apr 24, 2011)

I am not a big fan of gaps, jamb extensions, etc. Supposedly there is a painted casing application out there that retracts and expands on the jamb, but I have not seen this myself so not sure how it would look or even how it works


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

Why not put spacers on the studs and then hang the rock??


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## TMT (Aug 31, 2005)

That is what I have always done. Deal with it at the studs.


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## Calisota (Apr 15, 2011)

Sampietro said:


> I just did a bathroom remodel with the same problem. I just ripped down some pine to the thickness that the trim was off the sheetrock. Then tacked it to the trim with a pinner and install like normal. It will have a bigger profile on the wall looks nice and it quick to do.


Ditto. Rip or Bench plane flat stock. Flush it with the outer casing edge. Spackle, prime, and paint. No gap. 

If they are stain grade casings, you need to build a step out detail.


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## Calisota (Apr 15, 2011)

goneelkn said:


> Why not put spacers on the studs and then hang the rock??


Length and height of wall vs number of windows and doors to case. Pick your poison. 

6 casements/24 ft wall, shim the studs. 1 casement/24 ft wall, shim the case.

Like recipes for chicken salad; the only thing in common is the chicken.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Everyones suggestions will work. You
could also rabbet the casing at the door side so it sits tight to the wall. Will make the casing at the door look a bit thinner if you do that though.


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## Sampietro (Apr 14, 2011)

Morning Wood said:


> Everyones suggestions will work. You
> could also rabbet the casing at the door side so it sits tight to the wall. Will make the casing at the door look a bit thinner if you do that though.


The only thing with doing that is if you take off the lats and plaster and put up 1/2" sheetrock their is a difference of about 1/4" to 5/16". With most normal casing that would be almost all of the profile.


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## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

goneelkn said:


> Why not put spacers on the studs and then hang the rock??


That's what I would do......it doesn't take much to rip 8-10-12 1/4" shims and hang the DW. 

IMO it would be faster to shim all the studs and end with a cleaner look than to 'mute' the casings....plus it gives you a chance to straighten and plumb etc.....


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## jcs1984 (Jan 24, 2009)

Cut furring strips for the studs.


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## smuhhh (Dec 30, 2010)

Remove the jamb, rip it to size, reinstall. (If it is an interior door that is).


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Sampietro said:


> The only thing with doing that is if you take off the lats and plaster and put up 1/2" sheetrock their is a difference of about 1/4" to 5/16". With most normal casing that would be almost all of the profile.


The old plaster is thicker than 1/2" no? I'm saying rabbet the casing where it sits on the door jamb. So, yeah you might only see 3/8" minimum on the door side. If you're using anything less than 1x I guess it wouldnt work


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