# drip edge ?



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Patrick i swear 6 '' higher i would have needed a lift


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

God bless you driftwood thats when men were men, how much did you get a sq back then?


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Around here, normal procedure is to bend the fascia wrap in an "L" shape, with the bottom wrapping over (under) the ends of the vinyl soffit. You'd nail that the same way?
> 
> Seems like that'd be a fussy PITA.


 It works very well if you use soffit J or something you can up bend behind to keep it straight, but I've done it with just a hem on the bottom, which I make about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches wide. If the drip-edge fits snug, it actually holds the fascia wrap pretty straight, then predrill and nail straight up about every 24-30 inches, same on rakes. the doubled up "hem" is very strong and ridgid. No oil-canning to speak of either.:thumbsup:


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## maine man (Sep 21, 2008)

Every roof i have ever done in Maine has had drip edge. It helps to keep a clean line up the rake. It also keeps the water away from the fascia board slowing or preventing rot and infiltration. I like to lay my shingle hanging wild nail it down then cut upwards with a hook blade along the drip edge the shingle is always perfect.. and thats the way i roll.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

with me it seems that out of 10 pcs i hem i dink 1 in the brake:furious:


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Here is an example of the hem on the bottom and tucked behind the drip. You can see the nails on the bottom about every two feet, much less noticable than face nailing. I'll try to get better pix in daylight.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

loneframer said:


> You can see the nails on the bottom about every two feet, much less noticable than face nailing.


Had to zoom in to see them, but yes. I do believe that you and Tom have gained more than one convert.

I'm a bit handicapped in that I came to the trade late and have only worked with one crew. So any techniques they didn't show me I've pretty well had to ferret out or develop on my own. 

This place is a treasure trove. :clap:


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Had to zoom in to see them, but yes. I do believe that you and Tom have gained more than one convert.
> 
> I'm a bit handicapped in that I came to the trade late and have only worked with one crew. So any techniques they didn't show me I've pretty well had to ferret out or develop on my own.
> 
> This place is a treasure trove. :clap:


 That photo doesnt have drip-edge though, I made a receiver out of coil stock. I hemmed a 4" rip about 3/4" then hemmed it again about 1 1/4 ". I used a slotting punch to put holes about every foot, tucked it up to the bottom of the shingles and nailed with aluminum siding nails. The trim fascia slips into the receiver nice and snug. I'll post pics tomorrow if I get a chance.:thumbsup:


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## Driftwood (Feb 15, 2004)

*Back then*



tomstruble said:


> God bless you driftwood thats when men were men, how much did you get a sq back then?


Thanks Tom, We made a killing! I charged $25.00 per square. I paid $7.05
for bird regulars. $8.25 for bird wind seals.Harvey Industries. No roof loading. I had just come out of the U.S.M.C. Lean and mean. I carried 2 bundles each trip up the ladder 2 stories,80 lbs. per bundle . Snapped lines vertically for a pyramid, Horizontally
every other course. Can't imagine not doing this.Still have My slate hammer
Called a zax. Did slate repairs ,also. I look at roofs today, they go any wich way
Up and down ,LIKE A DOGS BALLS. P.S.Alco use to buy fry shingles,sometimes they would burn My back,HOT from the factory!


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## buildpinnacle (Sep 2, 2008)

We come across roofs from time to time that we are replacing that didn't have it. For some reason, most houses trimmed out in cedar don't use it around here. We always replace it. It averages a couple bucks a square but offers much more in piece of mind to the HO and myself. Nicer, cleaner finish as well. As far as usefulness, it does protect the fascia as if moisture does pull back from the shinlge edge (reverse capillary action) it will protect the wood. You look way more professional using it than talking an HO out of the extra $60.00 expenditure.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

we use 8" drip edge on all rakes and facias


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

from what ive seen and heard of your work Patrick i would expect no less:thumbup::notworthy


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

tomstruble said:


> from what ive seen and heard of your work Patrick i would expect no less:thumbup::notworthy


LOL heres the real story, its 25% for quality, and 75% pure laziness, cause all i gotta do now is just stock cartons of 8" drip edge, I dont have to see how much rake and how much facia there is.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

but its goof proof and bullet proof i stand by what i said:thumbsup:


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

loneframer said:


> That photo doesnt have drip-edge though, I made a receiver out of coil stock.:


Yes, I saw that, but at the moment it was irrelevant to my epiphany. :thumbup:

I was really more focused on the bottom detail, and it might seem silly but I'm excited about playing with that. I'm pretty good at face-nailing without undue distortion, but I've always had the idea that there has to be a better way. You guys have just shown me a couple of them. :thumbsup:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

so an old goat can learn new tricks:laughing:


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

Tom, Heres a real brain buster, Your sytem, however put an undersil under the drip edge, and snap lock the rake and facia..... No nails????? maybe????


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

yes Patrick i likey ill have to give that a try:thumbsup:


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

tomstruble said:


> yes Patrick i likey ill have to give that a try:thumbsup:


we are building a house for the home show today, I will try it out.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

your building a house? today?:notworthy


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