# Speedhide



## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

How does PPG Speedhide compare to SW Pro Mar 200? Thinking of doing some businessw ith PPG. SW seems to be getting a haughty. I was told Speedhide is comparable to PM 200, but the guy telling me didn't sound real convincing. Good price difference in the two. About $7 I think.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Too dumb a guestion?


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## remodeling joe (Feb 21, 2007)

i use pm 200 with great results, i've tried ppg and was very disappointed. :thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I appreciate the feedback. I was at a lawyers office recently and commented on the paint job someone had done. It looked really good. It was reddish color and she told me someone referred by Pittsburh had done it, so I thought I would check them out. It had been on my mind anyway. The guy at PPG also said Manor Hall was comparable to Superpaint. I have read here on the forums that some have had good luck with Manor Hall. Duration and Super Paint here is just out of $ight for me, I think.


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## Faron79 (Nov 29, 2007)

*"% Volume Solids"*

Check out each brands "Percent-Volume-Solids" for the real story.
Usually found on their MSDS pages, &/or the TDS's (technical data sheets).

This is a different rating than "Percent solids by WEIGHT"!! 
The PVS-rating is the only meaningful rating.
* Low quality/contractor-lines have PVS percentages in the low 20's.
* Higher-end lines are in the 30's.
* Ultra-Premium brands are upper-30's for their %-Volume-Solids.
* C2's PVS for their Flat is 43%.

The "Solids" are what's "really" left behind on the wall...

Faron


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## Ranger Rohland (Jan 28, 2005)

Faron79 said:


> Check out each brands "Percent-Volume-Solids" for the real story.
> Usually found on their MSDS pages, &/or the TDS's (technical data sheets).
> 
> This is a different rating than "Percent solids by WEIGHT"!!
> ...




Faron,

Great advice!

Price per gallon only tells us part of the story.


Tom
RLTW


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> About $7 I think.


I was wrong about that.Well, with interior flat latex anyway. Speed Hide is less than half what I pay for Pro Mar 200. And I do remember using that paint. Seems like it was kind of runny. Seems like I recall turning my roller when bringing it out of the pan to keep it from dripping before it got to the wall.


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## Paintpimp (Nov 15, 2006)

Faron79 said:


> Check out each brands "Percent-Volume-Solids" for the real story.
> Usually found on their MSDS pages, &/or the TDS's (technical data sheets).
> 
> This is a different rating than "Percent solids by WEIGHT"!!
> ...


You are partially correct. The volume or weight solids do NOT give an accurate count of the quality of a paint. The quality of the solids, the type of solids, quality of binders, pigments also. Additives put in the paint for better brush and roll characteristics or for better sprayability can put adverse reactions on coverage solids or washability characteristics. Paint companies can skew their own data sheets however they want. You cannot take what a data sheet says as far as solids percentage. Even MSDS can be skewed as well. Some paints with the highest volume solids are block fillers, cheap high build paints, high build primers. These obviously are not on par with high end paints even though they have similar solids (percentage) content. But contain very different quality type solids. One way of determining the quality of the paint you use, is doing a side by side blind test of each. Test the coverage, brush and roll characteristics, flow, odor, wet hide, dry hide, washability, burnish resistance, sheen, fading, paint store support and obviously many others.


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## Jonesey (Jul 7, 2006)

Speedhide is notable thicker than PM 200. The Manor Hall is so thick that it mudcracks on the wall if you're not careful. It is NOT comparable to Superpaint. Speedhide is a decent product. Coverage is on par with most other paints. Nothing particularly special. It dries a little softer than PM 200. Other than that the two products are about the same. 

Pittsburg makes some good paints that perform well in commercial applications. I just can't use it in residential where superpaint is the standard.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

boman47k said:


> I was wrong about that.Well, with interior flat latex anyway. Speed Hide is less than half what I pay for Pro Mar 200. *And I do remember using that paint. Seems like it was kind of runny*. Seems like I recall turning my roller when bringing it out of the pan to keep it from dripping before it got to the wall.


To clarify that statement, the Speedhide seemed thin and watery to me. The guy I was working for may have added too much flotrol or something. I remember asking him how much he put in it since it wanted to drip off the roller when I removed the roller from the pan. Interesting comments, thanks.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

I feel Speedhide is one of the most underrated primer/sealers for new drywall
Please keep in mind I'm usually brush'n'rolling it as part of an occupied remod, but I find it's coverage, sealing, hiding, adhesion, and finish, as a "commercial/builder's grade" to be excellent for the price and good enough for premium jobs and I do not hesitate to use it as such when it's appropriate or convenient

I wouldn't use it for many other apps, but new drywall I find it excellent

The guy really, really, shouldn't have put floetrol in it
I can't imagine why anyone would do that
Short of viscosity for spraying specific reasons, you really shouldn't be conditioning primers anyway
Sounds like a "the guy at Home Depot said...." type tip
'cept I know he didn't get the Pitts at HD...lol....


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> you really shouldn't be conditioning primers anyway


 
I was referring to the guy putting something in the paint. I remembered you comment on Speed Hide from earlier post. One reason I wanted to check into it. Guess I was thinking you were talking about the paint too.


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## MakDeco (Jan 17, 2007)

slickshift said:


> I feel Speedhide is one of the most underrated primer/sealers for new drywall
> Please keep in mind I'm usually brush'n'rolling it as part of an occupied remod, but I find it's coverage, sealing, hiding, adhesion, and finish, as a "commercial/builder's grade" to be excellent for the price and good enough for premium jobs and I do not hesitate to use it as such when it's appropriate or convenient
> 
> I wouldn't use it for many other apps, but new drywall I find it excellent
> ...


Hey Slick, you can Pitts in big box store here in the midwest. Some lines Manor Hall and an Ultra line which I am sure is a repack of one of there lines that they sell at there stores.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

MakDeco said:


> Hey Slick, you can Pitts in big box store here in the midwest. Some lines Manor Hall and an Ultra line which I am sure is a repack of one of there lines that they sell at there stores.


Wow...cool


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

boman47k said:


> ...Speed Hide from earlier post....I was thinking you were talking about the paint too.


Ah, no
I've used it...it's not bad...nothing wrong for the price really
But it is kind of thin and after two coats kinda looks like it needs another one
For a commercial/builder's type paint BM's Super Hide is probably better


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## lil_trumperboy (Sep 8, 2013)

*SpeedHide is a joke*

My builder makes me use speedhide and it is horrible! They need to post a sign on the label of each five gallon bucket "MUST BE STRAINED BEFORE EACH USE". Without failure I have had to strain each five and I'm talkin' BIG chunks of crap. The paint drags unlike anything I've ever used and it dries wayyyyy too fast. These are the facts and I'm sticking to them. I thought painters friend dragged, this stuff is worse than that!


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

I am using some speed hide eggshell on a repaint right now. I don't use a lot of Porter so I just asked for something inexpensive since the guy is just having me paint the place so he can sell it. 
Its not the worst paint I have ever used, although given the choice I would have taken SherScrub eggshell over it. 
It seems kinda thick and has kind of a drag feel to it when brushing it out. The finish seems OK, 2 coats over drywall patches and they didn't blead through with no primer, so I guess I can't complain.


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## sunkist (Apr 27, 2012)

C/k out promar 700, I pay $7.35 a galon in 5,s. Drys strange but let it dry. It Covers great.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Promar 700 is by far the worst thing I have ever used. Zero hide, when I sprayed it the ammonia content of the paint made it so I couldn't stay in the room. 
We got spec'd to use it on some condos. The builder said it was good. I could spray a ceiling until it was almost dripping off the texture and once it dried I could see through it. 
Most Sherwin stores dont even keep it on hand because nobody wants it. Most painters don't even know it exist. 
If you are making money with it and having good results then more power to ya brother, but man my experience was horrible. I switched to the 400 and paid the difference out of my own pocket


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## Rbnsb5 (May 5, 2013)

Promar 700 is crap. A buddy of mine who's been painting for a good while said the stuff used to be really good for light commercial and apartments. Not anymore.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

On new production houses I like CHB for the ceilings, its dead flat. Usually go with Sherscrub flat for the walls. 
Higher end homes I will still use the CHB on the ceilings but upgrade the walls to 200 eggshell.


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## mark DRP (Apr 19, 2011)

Why don't you use a quality paint? work out a deal with your SW rep. I pay 2 dollars more for Cashmere than pro mar 200, and the extra coverage makes up for that 2 dollars easily.


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## Rbnsb5 (May 5, 2013)

mark DRP said:


> Why don't you use a quality paint? work out a deal with your SW rep. I pay 2 dollars more for Cashmere than pro mar 200, and the extra coverage makes up for that 2 dollars easily.


I've never tried the cashmere. What are the advantages? Do you like it?


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

I wonder as well. Why would you want to use crap paint. Spec a couple of levels and stick to it. I never pick a product on price alone. You always end up spending more time than cost to make it work.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

I don't like Cashmere. I will use it in a repaint but not new construction, have had too many touch up issues with it.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Trim paint I use whatever is spec'd. One builder likes Pro Classic acrylic, one likes the alkyd/acrylic, and one likes the Porter Advantage 900. 
I sometimes handles the service calls for another builder, his guys use BM satin Impervo. I used it when I did a few houses for him, for the money I wasn't impressed. 
The builders here all spec one type of paint or another and that's what we have to use. Sometimes if a decorator is involved I get a little more of a voice in the matter. I have one decorator I work for who loves Sherwin's Emerald and will gladly pay the extra cost of me using it.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

I have used the PPG paints more than any other brand of paint ( my supply carries) and have had great results.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Everyone here kept telling me how bad Glyptex oil is, I actually like it better then the Satin Impervo everyone here raves about. 
There are products I have used and liked from all the major paint stores, and they all have products I hate. 
All the builders here spec what they want used so we are kinda at their mercy. I did manage to get our 2 main builders to switch to CHB for ceilings, I get better results with it then I did with the SherScrub and Builder Craft they used to make us use.


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