# Trailer Home Drywall over Wood Panel?



## lurevert7 (May 31, 2011)

Friend bought trailer home and it has wood panel interior walls. Could I put Drywall over it or is it just recommended to remove the wood panel and is it alot of work to remove?


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## Remodelor (Nov 5, 2010)

I don't know much about trailers, however I do know that the wood paneling is typically used because it weighs considerably less than drywall, and the siding is subject to a lot of flex in transit which means drywall would crack. That being said, if the trailer is going to be in this place until a tornado finally relocates it, then I don't see any harm with a 1/4" sheetrock overlay.

Again though, I know very little about trailer homes.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

The wood paneling is probably glued and nailed. So, removing it might be a bit of a challenge. I don't see why you couldn't just drywall right over it. You might want to check the window returns, to see how the drywall will sit at the window/frame though.:thumbsup:

-Paul


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## smuhhh (Dec 30, 2010)

Sir Mixalot said:


> The wood paneling is probably glued and nailed. So, removing it might be a bit of a challenge. I don't see why you couldn't just drywall right over it. You might want to check the window returns, to see how the drywall will sit at the window/frame though.:thumbsup:
> 
> -Paul


Yeah, windows and doors are going to be a bit of a pain to trim out nicely after the added thickness of drywall.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

You could use J-bead to finish off the drywall around the doors and windows.:thumbsup:

-Paul


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## csv (Aug 18, 2009)

Most always the paneling is glued and stapled on perimeter walls, interior walls sometimes aren't. We have always hung 1/4" over the paneling. Just make sure no staples are raised up or you might run into some problems.


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## lurevert7 (May 31, 2011)

So helpful Thank you very much. The trailer isn't moving it's in Vegas no tornado around here heh. I'm going to put 1/4 drywall.


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

I learned a few tricks on several I have done, I would tare off all the dividers, window molding, comer pieces, and ceilings strips. then we used silicone to get a good bite ( easer to remove later on) use 1" screws - lot of wires behind them walls!

Good Luck


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Careful, them "studs" aren't necessarily 2x material.

This is not just a random statement.
There is some experience involved here.


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## smuhhh (Dec 30, 2010)

Yeah, a lot have 1X3 interior walls.


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## Plumbing Zombie (Jun 11, 2011)

Have boarded over these many times, we're the only contractors in the area that will remodel trailers because of the complications. Most of the ceilings are textured so j bead is a must at the top, unless you cove trim it. The paneling is only 1/8" stapled and glued so 1/4" board is pretty flimsy. Alot of the foam trim is probably going to break so be prepared for replacement and cut extension jams for windows and doors (don't remove hinge screws they're only 1/2" # 6) and use 3/8" board and prefill and first coat with regular durabond (if your a decent finisher). 1 1/4" screws at most and plenty of liquid nails drywall adhesive. No drywall nails, trailers flex too much and they will pop.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

griz said:


> Careful, them "studs" aren't necessarily 2x material.
> 
> This is not just a random statement.
> There is some experience involved here.


Lol had a buddy that lived in a trailer, wanted some ******* bunkbeds built. Couple 2x4's, some plywood good to go. Lagged the 2xs to the wall, went into the hall and the lags were sticking out. Good place to hang a picture i suppose.....


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## mc handyman (May 17, 2009)

Just helped a friend with the same thing last week. There was an extreme leak in the roof as the owner was out of state and it destroyed every square foot of drywall with water damage. The paneling came off pretty easy. My advice would be to try and take the sheets paneling off as whole as you can otherwise it makes for one hell of a mess. The hardest part was getting the rock of the wall because someone decided they would screw every three inches!

Good luck!

P.S. wear that thing they call a respirator! You will find some black spots!


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## Insuranceclaims (Aug 31, 2009)

mc handyman said:


> Just helped a friend with the same thing last week. There was an extreme leak in the roof as the owner was out of state and it destroyed every square foot of drywall with water damage. The paneling came off pretty easy. My advice would be to try and take the sheets paneling off as whole as you can otherwise it makes for one hell of a mess. The hardest part was getting the rock of the wall because someone decided they would screw every three inches!
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> P.S. wear that thing they call a respirator! You will find some black spots!


While my comments are not the subject of this post, you mentioned water damage. After you remove all the water damaged materials, don't forget to use or have someone check any remaining structural materials with a moisture meter. The water had to go somewhere. If the floors are carpet or vinyl, the water most likely seeped on to the OSB sub floor. The sub floor and insulation below may also need to be replaced. This could create a real mold issue down the road. Air blowers and dehumidifiers may be needed. In turn, the temperature and relative humidity also need to be monitored.

These are just some quick thoughts that I wanted to share before you replace the walls.


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## MikeGC (Dec 6, 2008)

Dont forget about the electric boxes They will need extension sleeves


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## Plumbing Zombie (Jun 11, 2011)

MikeGC said:


> Dont forget about the electric boxes They will need extension sleeves


That depends on the mobile home manufacturer. Most mobile homes are all old work boxes and can be pulled and reset. Some are even boxless devices where the sealed outlet, receptacle or device has old work tabs right on them.


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## Remodelor (Nov 5, 2010)

MikeGC said:


> Dont forget about the electric boxes They will need extension sleeves


Actually would they? I'm not sure on the code (don't do drywall overlays ever) but 1/4" rock wouldn't extend it any further than tile on a backsplash would and I've never seen extension sleeves or boxes set to the proper depth to be flush with the tile before.

...

Come to think of it, I see a lot of work where the original electrician mounted the box flush with the stud rather than giving it the standard 1/2" offset. Is that technically a code violation?


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

We have done this many times, simply install over the panneling...use box extensions for the electrical box's, poly if nessasary...good to go..


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## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

Remodelor said:


> Actually would they? I'm not sure on the code (don't do drywall overlays ever) but 1/4" rock wouldn't extend it any further than tile on a backsplash would and I've never seen extension sleeves or boxes set to the proper depth to be flush with the tile before.
> 
> ...
> 
> Come to think of it, I see a lot of work where the original electrician mounted the box flush with the stud rather than giving it the standard 1/2" offset. Is that technically a code violation?


It may not be a code violation. But, with a cheap plastic switchplate cover, the wife will plug the vacuum in and break the switchplate because the socket is too deep into the wall. My first house all the plugs were set too deep, and it just sucked. I would have a mind to slap an electrician if he set the boxes flush with the studs (I would never want them that way in my house, or any project), when he could do them right . The box even has a tab on it to help you set it properly, doesn't it? :thumbsup:


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

griz said:


> Careful, them "studs" aren't necessarily 2x material.
> 
> This is not just a random statement.
> There is some experience involved here.


I think the walls are balsa wood.
:whistling


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## MikeGC (Dec 6, 2008)

Ignoring the depth change of the electric boxes is hack whether its a code violation or not. Debating otherwise is also hack.


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