# selfprimeing deck paint



## quality app (Nov 11, 2006)

Has any one had much experiace with self primeing deck paints?


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

You mean soild body stain?


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## quality app (Nov 11, 2006)

No they are paints


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## Flawless Finish (Aug 7, 2006)

When I HAVE TO paint a deck floor, I used a floor enamel. It is self priming. First coat I thin down 15% with water and the second straight. It seems to work pretty well, but I still prefer a stain.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

I've used a "porch/patio/floor" enamel
But never on decks per say
I don't recall even seeing a "deck paint"

I'm not sure why a solid stain wouldn't work
But I suppose if I "had to" use a paint, I'd use the enamel


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

The only self priming paint I use is duration(for houses). I prime everything, that's just me-I dont trust any other products that claim to be self priming. I've used solid stain for decks. I've used enamel for porches and garage stairs and such, never a full deck--and I've never painted a deck with "paint".


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Ive seen a "deck paint" in Behr, etc... i'd just use a solid body... these days you can get just about any color you want. This was SW stain, over a gray paint on the floor.


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## JNLP (Oct 21, 2006)

Ohhh man. That is one ugly deck. Reminds me of one I did this year in floresent green. I think the old lady is getting stoned & hitting the black lights at night or something? :laughing: 

As for color on decks, I've only used Deckscapes Exterior Acrylic Solid Color Stain. Looks better than paint & is extremely easy to apply in my opinion. Who sells the self priming deck paint?


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Heh ya... I did the body and trim in Superpaint, then the guy picks out "sundried tomatoe" for the deck and doors... I was like...uhhh, well ok....


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## Flawless Finish (Aug 7, 2006)

GLK said:


> Who sells the self priming deck paint?


Porter has it in a satin latex and an high-gloss oil.


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## Flawless Finish (Aug 7, 2006)

slickshift said:


> I'm not sure why a solid stain wouldn't work
> But I suppose if I "had to" use a paint, I'd use the enamel





Paintguy26 said:


> I've used enamel for porches and garage stairs and such, never a full deck--and I've never painted a deck with "paint".


I've only had to do it a couple of times twice. I did it about 1 month ago and the lady is complaining the light blue paint she picked is getting dirty and won't clean off with just a hose.  I told her that's why I strongly recomended she used a stain.


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## quality app (Nov 11, 2006)

Sherwin williams and devoe carry a selfprime deck paint. the customer does not like the finish of stains, they are not very cleanable and dont really have the( finish look) that they want.


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## Rich Wozny (Aug 18, 2005)

I have a personell friend who bought a house recently on a small lake, it has a large deck that was painted years ago by previous owners and it's peeling and flaking. She asked me if I wanted to paint it next year, I told her it should be stripped and power washed and either stained or treated with a penetrating oil. She's insisted that it must be painted but I don't want to paint it and have it start peeling in a year or two. Anyone out there have any ideas?


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## quality app (Nov 11, 2006)

I used the paint by sherwin williams, it is called tread plex its a semigloss waterborne and it worked well two coats.Time will tell


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## Squrtgun (Aug 27, 2006)

Gawd,Brushslinger I think there is some kind of building code against that color.


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## 4thGeneration (Nov 23, 2006)

*Think investment instead of best bet.*



quality app said:


> Has any one had much experiace with self primeing deck paints?


I always use the Flood products when it comes to decks. The solid comes with a 5 year warranty. Prep is everything and it affects the true longevity of any project as well as homeowner post care such as cleaning.


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## LennyV-NHSNOLA (Nov 22, 2006)

I think good old wooden screen doors would look better than the aluminum storms... maybe painted in a hot pink to go with the color scheme.


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## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

Woz the Painter said:


> I have a personell friend who bought a house recently on a small lake, it has a large deck that was painted years ago by previous owners and it's peeling and flaking. She asked me if I wanted to paint it next year, I told her it should be stripped and power washed and either stained or treated with a penetrating oil. She's insisted that it must be painted but I don't want to paint it and have it start peeling in a year or two. Anyone out there have any ideas?


What kind of wood is it?


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

Woz the Painter said:


> I have a personell friend who bought a house recently on a small lake, it has a large deck that was painted years ago by previous owners and it's peeling and flaking. She asked me if I wanted to paint it next year, I told her it should be stripped and power washed and either stained or treated with a penetrating oil. She's insisted that it must be painted but I don't want to paint it and have it start peeling in a year or two. Anyone out there have any ideas?



Your job is to give *your expertise* to the customer--*you tell them* what will be the best product for the job. I'm sure you have some pictures of decks to show customers your work--show them the pics and let them know what products you used

does this person want to insist on how much you'll charge too? :w00t:

I always steer clear of people who try and dictate the service and products I will be providing for them--

as far as the paint peeling---being on a lake is a big issue, the previous painter might not have power washed first, and might have used a not-so-good product


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## furiousstyles (May 19, 2006)

Concerning powerwashing deck on lake...Do you have to be concerned with contaminating the water with the coating that you are cleaning? I stain a deck on a lake every two years with cabots deck stain, but I always worry about getting in trouble for "polluting" the lake with what comes off with either pressure washing or sanding. Is there a way to do this prep work without there being contamination issues?


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

furiousstyles said:


> Concerning powerwashing deck on lake...Do you have to be concerned with contaminating the water with the coating that you are cleaning? I stain a deck on a lake every two years with cabots deck stain, but I always worry about getting in trouble for "polluting" the lake with what comes off with either pressure washing or sanding. Is there a way to do this prep work without there being contamination issues?


I guess it depends on how close the deck really is to the water. I am envisioning "wrapping" the outside of the deck with plastic and bringing it underneath...but I dont know if that might work for the deck you're talking about

and yes...you do need to be concerned about the environment in every way....there are product out there that are safe, but I guess its mainly the flying chips of paint that are the issue. good question though--the smoke has left my ears:laughing:


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## Barry M (Aug 3, 2006)

Woz the Painter said:


> I have a personell friend who bought a house recently on a small lake, it has a large deck that was painted years ago by previous owners and it's peeling and flaking. She asked me if I wanted to paint it next year, I told her it should be stripped and power washed and either stained or treated with a penetrating oil. She's insisted that it must be painted but I don't want to paint it and have it start peeling in a year or two. Anyone out there have any ideas?


This is exactly why no one should ever PAINT a deck. You're right that it needs stripped with chems and sealed but the problem is you'll never get all the old paint off without it being very labor intensive or without damaging the wood with too much psi. I pass on these type of jobs because it will never look like it should and I don't want my company name associated with a crappy job that won't last. I restore decks for a living and I have enough work that I'm not going to loss my ass on a deck that as been painted. I use strippers and cleaners and no more than 800-1000psi of water pressure, I then nuetralize, let dry and reseal with a quality oil penetrating sealer. That's how its done properly. I've seen some guys blasting decks with so much pressure they were making toothpicks. Sure the paint was coming off but so was a lot of wood. To answer your question, if you want to tackle a project like this, first of all price it right. Second I would do a test spot on the deck to see how well the old stuff is going to come off. Use a good stripper at full strength and your dwell time will be the key (give the stripper time to work). Pressure wash with 1000psi and then be sure to nuetralize the wood after stripping. At that point I would use a solid deck stain because I guarantee their will still be some old paint on it that will show through a semi trans sealer and look like crap. Or you could break out the sander and go to town. A lot of times the spindles are a pain and you might consider just changing them. Another trick is on the floor if your not satisfied you can flip the boards if their in not to bad of shape. Bottom line is be prepared for a lot of work.



4thGeneration said:


> I always use the Flood products when it comes to decks. The solid comes with a 5 year warranty. Prep is everything and it affects the true longevity of any project as well as homeowner post care such as cleaning.


The problem with this is: what are you faced with in five years when the deck needs maintenace? A solid stain mess. Then your tempted to just stain over the old stuff and in 6 weeks they are calling you back because it's flaking and peeling. I wouldn't use a solid unless it's like the above situation and the deck as already been destroyed. Just my 02 cents.

Very true that prep is everything. Improper prep work is the number one reason a sealer fails. It doesn't matter what sealer it is or how expensive it is, if the wood isn't prepared properly is won't be long before your getting the call back.


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## JMGP (Mar 29, 2005)

I recomend this product for marine use... decks and/or docks on the water...

www.sealonce.com


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## Squrtgun (Aug 27, 2006)

JMGP said:


> I recomend this product for marine use... decks and/or docks on the water...
> 
> www.sealonce.com



Polymers based is no better than silicone based or solid deck acrylics.They are bad for the wood.

Stop the madness.If the deck is already painted you choices are limited.However,if it new or at the very least bare wood.Oil based semi's are the best thing you can do for the wood.


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## JMGP (Mar 29, 2005)

Squrtgun said:


> Polymers based is no better than silicone based or solid deck acrylics.They are bad for the wood.
> 
> Stop the madness.If the deck is already painted you choices are limited.However,if it new or at the very least bare wood.Oil based semi's are the best thing you can do for the wood.


My recomendation was directed for those that seal decks or docks over water... this is a GREEN product... it is not "just for" marine use though... check out the product info on the site...

I always try to use oil semi's on decks...


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

Squrtgun said:


> Gawd,Brushslinger I think there is some kind of building code against that color.


Heh, hey...customer is always right! :w00t:


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## Danahy (Oct 17, 2006)

This might not be an option, but if the deck were screwed down, how about removing a row or two at a time, and doing the work on land, then reinstall?


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## Squrtgun (Aug 27, 2006)

Brushslingers said:


> Heh, hey...customer is always right! :w00t:


NOT.Most are just crazy....................:w00t:


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