# drywall seams



## jhcontracting (Jan 10, 2009)

I've got a couple of questions for you guys. First question is this. Had a drywall contractor tell me that on factory tapered seams, you should leave a slight crown of mud when you're done. Said it has to do with shrinkage. Never heard of that before. I've always sanded until smooth. I have never had a problem before, but I was just curious if he was right. 

The second question has to do with using the corner bead that has paper edges on it. I had all kinds of problems with it. I applied mud on the corner, and then embedded the corner bead into it. then I feathered the excess mud from the paper, and that's where I had the problem. the metal part of the corner bead didn't adhere to the wall in the mud. Is there a special tool to use on that type of corner bead, or is there a trick to installing it? Like I said I'm not an expert, but I have done quite a bit of mudding over the years. Just slow at it. Any help would be appreciated.


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## illbuildit.dd (Jan 7, 2015)

jhcontracting said:


> I've got a couple of questions for you guys. First question is this. Had a drywall contractor tell me that on factory tapered seams, you should leave a slight crown of mud when you're done. Said it has to do with shrinkage. Never heard of that before. I've always sanded until smooth. I have never had a problem before, but I was just curious if he was right.
> 
> The second question has to do with using the corner bead that has paper edges on it. I had all kinds of problems with it. I applied mud on the corner, and then embedded the corner bead into it. then I feathered the excess mud from the paper, and that's where I had the problem. the metal part of the corner bead didn't adhere to the wall in the mud. Is there a special tool to use on that type of corner bead, or is there a trick to installing it? Like I said I'm not an expert, but I have done quite a bit of mudding over the years. Just slow at it. Any help would be appreciated.


No crown!! That's completely wrong.
I've use they bead with no problems. Not my fave. So long as there is solid mud beneath it will be solod when dry


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

jhcontracting said:


> I've got a couple of questions for you guys. First question is this. Had a drywall contractor tell me that on factory tapered seams, you should leave a slight crown of mud when you're done. Said it has to do with shrinkage. Never heard of that before. I've always sanded until smooth. I have never had a problem before, but I was just curious if he was right.
> 
> Can't say .. I Don't know his methods .
> 
> ...



Would you place mud beneath a nail on bead? There are many ways to apply the paper face bead . Some use a compound tube with a flat applicator ..Some a hopper .. some by hand with a 5ver .. I myself use a 3'' wool roller to apply the mud to the inside flange /paper then place and wipe down. I let dry before block coat .

Oh.. The more mud placed beneath the metal flange can push the nose out causing more fill . knife check with a 12'' while wipe down.


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## illbuildit.dd (Jan 7, 2015)

Sometimes I forget that after doing so much drywall for so many hours for so many years that I had to quit due to the pains in my elbows and wrists that I need to be extremely presice with my answers. Who'd a thought???


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Leaving a crown due to shrinkage is one of the dumber things I've heard.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

I use shrinkage to my advantage. I like to have the mud suck up sometimes. But I don't rely on it. You can't predict it like that.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

:no::no::no::no:

Don't know why you guys don't just put metal bead on. Not the Home Depot crap.
I can see guys like Blacktop doing it (paper) because that's all they do. But guys that don't do it every day should learn failsafe methods.

I've done drywall most of my life. Metal bead for me. Salt water environments get plastic/vinyl.


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## illbuildit.dd (Jan 7, 2015)

Big Shoe said:


> :no::no::no::no:
> 
> Don't know why you guys don't just put metal bead on. Not the Home Depot crap.
> I can see guys like Blacktop doing it (paper) because that's all they do. But guys that don't do it every day should learn failsafe methods.
> ...


Metal is the only way to go ceiling to floor due to people bumping it. Clench and nail and its solid. 

And as far as a crown and sanding, there's nothing wrong with sanding but why work so hard? I let my knife do the work. Pretty easy after doing work in some hospitals where they won't let you sand even with a neg air machine set up. Level 5


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## jhcontracting (Jan 10, 2009)

Thanks for all the answers. I never thought about the strength factor when people bump into it. I was told the paper was quicker. Not for me.
I'll definitely continue with the metal bead. Good to know about the factory seams as well. I didn't think that made sense, but I don't do it for a living. Just small bathrooms when I can't get a taper in there. I know one thing. I can rely on getting the right answers on this forum from you guys. Thanks a lot.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

I use all 3 depending on what im doing but mainly is plastic due to its ding resistance compared to metal.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

ask that contractor if he could find you a crown pole sander then slap him over his head with it:hammer: and I like when contractor use crap bead...give guys like us repair work


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

BCConstruction said:


> I use all 3 depending on what im doing but mainly is plastic due to its ding resistance compared to metal.


Ever use the no coat sticks?


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Evidently good drywallers don't have seams. I once had to replace a full sheet on a ceiling from a leak. The customer comes home and says "I thought it would be one whole sheet" I said it is he said "No the whole ceiling" The room was like 25' x 25'.:no:

The same customer one day ask "Who smokes?" I said I do. He says "I can smell it, I have a sensitive nose" I asked him what he did for a living. He said " I'm a proctologist" i had to leave the room I wanted burst out in laughter.:laughing:


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## hthome (Feb 10, 2015)

jhcontracting said:


> I've got a couple of questions for you guys. First question is this. Had a drywall contractor tell me that on factory tapered seams, you should leave a slight crown of mud when you're done. Said it has to do with shrinkage. Never heard of that before. I've always sanded until smooth. I have never had a problem before, but I was just curious if he was right.
> 
> The second question has to do with using the corner bead that has paper edges on it. I had all kinds of problems with it. I applied mud on the corner, and then embedded the corner bead into it. then I feathered the excess mud from the paper, and that's where I had the problem. the metal part of the corner bead didn't adhere to the wall in the mud. Is there a special tool to use on that type of corner bead, or is there a trick to installing it? Like I said I'm not an expert, but I have done quite a bit of mudding over the years. Just slow at it. Any help would be appreciated.


 If he's using a flatbox, then it has its own crown on it, which could be what hes talking about. I mean you have to crown it when you float it, then you sand flat. Thats how we get flat. You can't start with flat (if you got it flat and didnt dig a trench when you made a pass with your knife) and let a shrinking material dry (shrink) and still expect it to be flat. The crown he's talking about is a mil or two thick, not like a 4x4 sized bed of mud. Run a flatbox over factory seams then use a straightedge after it dries. It will be crowned.
EDIT: NVM your right. Just reread it and don't let him leave a crown. Crown it when you float it then sand flat not just leave it crowned.

As far as paper or metal corner beads go. The quality of the material used depends on the product knowledge and skill of the installer. It goes along with the mesh or paper tape argument. With the exception of undeniable product failures ( which a lot of is again, installer related, or a manufacturing error) it comes down to what your EXPERIENCED installer uses and whether he/she knows how to use it correctly. I think that holds true in most trades.


Hunter


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

The paper metal corner beads use spray adhesive before you mud when you mud use Durabond 90 brown bag as bed coat it makes it solid cause if someone hits it with a piece of furniture it wont crack but with a ready mix mud Plus3 it will crack an may pop


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Frankawitz said:


> The paper metal corner beads use spray adhesive before you mud when you mud use Durabond 90 brown bag as bed coat it makes it solid cause if someone hits it with a piece of furniture it wont crack but with a ready mix mud Plus3 it will crack an may pop


Thats what I do, Im surprise you were the first to mention it. I was starting think there were consequences to doing and frowned on.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

jhcontracting said:


> I've got a couple of questions for you guys. First question is this. Had a drywall contractor tell me that on factory tapered seams, you should leave a slight crown of mud when you're done. Said it has to do with shrinkage.


A slight crown on the wet mud - just enough so it doesn't shrink below the surface.


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