# UGH! schluter jolly metal is 8 ft. My walls are 8 ft. 1 1/2 inches



## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

small fill in cut, top or bottom of the corner. I was thinking at the top. Seems out of eye sight. I have 5 corners like this.


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## rescraft (Nov 28, 2007)

?????????


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

here's a similar pic
You know for all the tiling I've done, I've never run into this issue where the run was longer than 8 feet on a vertical run. Since its that tiny of a remnant. A 1 1/2 inch cut to fill in


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Jolly is 8' 2-1/2" long, not 8'

You'll need to cut off an inch to get it to fit. 

Tom


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Assuming it's too short regardless of the actual measurements, I'd do the splice at the bottom. People look down much more than up.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Hmm. Shot myself in the foot with that one. :laughing:


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

If I have to seam the metal I place it at the lowest grout line. Done properly the seams will be invisible from normal viewing positions. 

Tom


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Assuming it's too short regardless of the actual measurements, I'd do the splice at the bottom. People look down much more than up.


I find the opposite, most never look up. I swear I could get away with no ceilings sometimes. Most look down more often when walking or just standing around. 

The room is normally darker lower down with more shadows. 

Tom


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

tjbnwi said:


> I find the opposite, most never look up.


That's what I said. But that actually argues for doing the splice up high where that spider guy is clutching the ceiling before pouncing on you.

Good point about the lighting down low, though.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> That's what I said. But that actually argues for doing the splice up high where that spider guy is clutching the ceiling before pouncing on you.
> 
> Good point about the lighting down low, though.


Higher it is closer to most lines of sight. Low the angle changes and is farther from most lines of sight. 

Tom


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

I was leaning towards up. 
Thanks


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

Anyone ever set the metal on the wall before starting to tile the wall. I do this a lot when i do shampoo niche's. Frame it and tape it to the wall.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

gowings said:


> I was leaning towards up.
> Thanks


You shouldn't need a seam.

Tom


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

tjbnwi said:


> You shouldn't need a seam.
> 
> Tom


well I put the metal up on the corner to see what I was faced with and its 1 1/2 inches short


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

tjbnwi said:


> Higher it is closer to most lines of sight. Low the angle changes and is farther from most lines of sight.
> 
> Tom


Yeah, most people's eyes are closer to the ceiling than the floor.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

gowings said:


> Anyone ever set the metal on the wall before starting to tile the wall. I do this a lot when i do shampoo niche's. Frame it and tape it to the wall.


Well it has to be on the surface before you tile, sometimes I level it and hot glue it. I'd piece it in at the bottom.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

tjbnwi said:


> If I have to seam the metal I place it at the lowest grout line. Done properly the seams will be invisible from normal viewing positions.
> 
> Tom


As long as the shower isn't across from the chitter.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

gowings said:


> Anyone ever set the metal on the wall before starting to tile the wall. I do this a lot when i do shampoo niche's. Frame it and tape it to the wall.


I always set the profile before tile.


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## Jay hole (Nov 12, 2013)

I like to do at least an 8" piece instead of an 1 1/2" tiny pieces never look right IMO.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

Golden view said:


> Yeah, most people's eyes are closer to the ceiling than the floor.


Not DWB’s girlfriend Bridget.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

gowings said:


> well I put the metal up on the corner to see what I was faced with and its 1 1/2 inches short


Measure the length of the Jolly. If it's not 8'-2-1/2" long someone cut it. 

Here is the selection sheet from Schluter;

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-u...-Outside-Wall-Corners/Schluter®-JOLLY/p/JOLLY

Tom


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## kirkdc (Feb 16, 2017)

A little dinky piece looks crappy. I'd do a larger piece as someone else mentioned. And right at the grout line too. Personally I try and hide those things high and not low. Preference. 


If it's for an HO, I always run those kinds of things by them and let them know what I'm doing, present some options and then have them give me the OK.


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

Thanks ALL
For the advice.:thumbsup:
The homeowner said do what you want. We don't care. Top/bottom whatever.
I found out the metal I had was not Schluter. It was Bengard. I have used both and for some reason I thought I had Schluter in my hand. Didn't even look. My apologies.
Worse thing is I didn't even know Schluter was longer lengths.
I get Bengard since it's more a convenient supplier to get to and thought they were the same.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

gowings said:


> Anyone ever set the metal on the wall before starting to tile the wall. I do this a lot when i do shampoo niche's. Frame it and tape it to the wall.


I have, I'm not skilled enough to set it with the tile without making a mess.


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## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

Inner10 said:


> I have, I'm not skilled enough to set it with the tile without making a mess.


I wish I had known you could preset the edgings. I only just realized it on the last little reno I did. Previous times I did it with the tile and while acceptable, I wasn't happy with the result.

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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

heavy_d said:


> I wish I had known you could preset the edgings. I only just realized it on the last little reno I did. Previous times I did it with the tile and while acceptable, I wasn't happy with the result.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Serious question.

How else would you do it? Set all the tile real fast and then slide it in?


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## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Serious question.
> 
> How else would you do it? Set all the tile real fast and then slide it in?


Put a bit of thinset where it goes, apply the edging then tile on top of it. How they show in the installation videos lol.

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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

heavy_d said:


> Put a bit of thinset where it goes, apply the edging then tile on top of it. How they show in the installation videos lol.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


I'm confused... :laughing:

Say you're running a piece from a shower curb up to the ceiling. I spread a 2" - 3" wide strip of thinset all the way up, set the strip perfectly plumb, push it into the mortar, wipe off the excess, and then start at the bottom and tile up.

I would consider that presetting the strip and it sounds like that's how you're saying you would do it?

If there are more pieces than that, I set them all, but you get the idea.


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## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I'm confused... :laughing:
> 
> Say you're running a piece from a shower curb up to the ceiling. I spread a 2" - 3" wide strip of thinset all the way up, set the strip perfectly plumb, push it into the mortar, wipe off the excess, and then start at the bottom and tile up.
> 
> ...


I guess I was doing it right after all then haha

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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Serious question.
> 
> How else would you do it? Set all the tile real fast and then slide it in?


Hot Glue. Couple of dabs and done. The thing doesn't budge a mm from plumb.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

I thought most of the Schluter edging/profiles came only in 8’ lengths. The reason given is because they made a supply decision for shipping and 8’ is the max length for UPS packages. 


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## RichVT (Feb 28, 2009)

I think that they know that they are too long for UPS but nobody at UPS has caught on yet. I seem to remember hearing this when I took a class at the factory in Plattsburgh.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Hot Glue. Couple of dabs and done. The thing doesn't budge a mm from plumb.


I've used the hot glue before but I typically just use thinset because it's what I have out when I'm tiling.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

AustinDB said:


> I thought most of the Schluter edging/profiles came only in 8’ lengths. The reason given is because they made a supply decision for shipping and 8’ is the max length for UPS packages.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Regular UPS length limit is 108". 

Tom


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Hot Glue. Couple of dabs and done. The thing doesn't budge a mm from plumb.


I have tried and had some success pre-mounting metals. But how do you come up with a depth that includes the tile plus thinset and say a return on that Rondo corner edged metal. I had 2 today that were corners but they returned into a tub surround with a small 2 inch tile cut the first 6 ft., then came into the wall tile above the surround. I did the 5 inch face first up 6 ft. then moved to the tub side and adjusted the metal as I went up. Then the other side of that face.
BUT the whole time I'm thinking hey TNT must have a concrete solution.
I'm just not seeing it.

P.S.
The other thing that pisses me off is my Manual tile cutter with new titanium wheel on it still giving me tail in/outs on 24's. My big clunker is going to be a big scrap of metal soon.
I switched to my wet saw and gave up on the manual. Yet I watch video and man do they make it look simple on the manuals. All be it either a Sigma or Montolit


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

gowings said:


> I have tried and had some success pre-mounting metals. But how do you come up with a depth that includes the tile plus thinset and say a return on that Rondo corner edged metal. I had 2 today that were corners but they returned into a tub surround with a small 2 inch tile cut the first 6 ft., then came into the wall tile above the surround. I did the 5 inch face first up 6 ft. then moved to the tub side and adjusted the metal as I went up. Then the other side of that face.
> BUT the whole time I'm thinking hey TNT must have a concrete solution.
> I'm just not seeing it.
> 
> ...


There is a very big difference in snappers. The higher quality ones are worth very penny.

Tom


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## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

My last little reno I had to patch in some plastic edging to match the existing so I glued it on with trimtex adhesive for vinyl beads. Worked well!

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