# Any Advice on this Repair?



## TLP (Jun 17, 2013)

seabterry said:


> If the fit is that tight and your are doing sections at a time, how will you get the seam sealer in there and then run your bolt in the concrete. Are you talking about still opening up the exterior wall a certain way up?


The temp supports are tight, not the permanent structure. Right, I'm wondering if this can all be done from the outside without tearing out the interior. I don't have all the details worked out, just a concept to consider before you have to tear it all apart.


----------



## seabterry (Jun 21, 2012)

TLP said:


> The temp supports are tight, not the permanent structure. Right, I'm wondering if this can all be done from the outside without tearing out the interior. I don't have all the details worked out, just a concept to consider before you have to tear it all apart.


The interior is serious mold damage. I doubt it will be missed. Lets also keep in mind that this room is doing nothing right now but holding a bucket that is catching water from a leak.


----------



## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

*My 2c Worth...*

We've run into this quite often unfortunately, rotten sills and bands...without really tearing into it, we've supported the floor joists from the crawl space...with uneven dirt down there, we've taken a few 2x8's or 2x10's the length of what needs repaired, and doubled them up (if needed we've staggered the joints in them...typically anything over 10' I'll just stagger the joints as it's sometimes difficult to maneuver much longer timber in crawl spaces!). Then I'll take some bottle jacks, and use the 2x's as a beam under all the floor joists, using some toe-screws to hold it all in place. This'll hold up the floor at least, and as another has mentioned we'll do something similar inside the room to support the ceiling...somewhat depending on whether it's a load bearing wall or if it's just supporting a gable end, where sometimes you may be able to take a 2x8 or 10 and screw it into the studs along the wall to support it temporarily while you gut underneath it. Always make sure you support it, and when you replace what's rotten, you may need to raise the bottle jacks a tad if the entire room's structure has started sinking...so the bottle jacks actually serve a dual fold purpose of holding it all in place, and you're already setup if you need to gently raise the structure back up! (use a good one though! A decend 20 ton jack will run ya $75-100, but last years and years!)

I'd sure think about just replacing everything with treated lumber, I normally do just for good measure, though if you take care of the problem that caused it, you're overkill at that point!

Oh, and PS...do the next guy a favor, do the job right and get rid of everything that's rotted and bad!!! Can't tell you how many times I've had to go back to do some repair work to something someone else put a band-aid over only to find that everything that was rotted was left in place and 'sistered' to...looks bad when it's only 1/2 a job done!!!


----------



## seabterry (Jun 21, 2012)

mstrat said:


> We've run into this quite often unfortunately, rotten sills and bands...without really tearing into it, we've supported the floor joists from the crawl space...with uneven dirt down there, we've taken a few 2x8's or 2x10's the length of what needs repaired, and doubled them up (if needed we've staggered the joints in them...typically anything over 10' I'll just stagger the joints as it's sometimes difficult to maneuver much longer timber in crawl spaces!). Then I'll take some bottle jacks, and use the 2x's as a beam under all the floor joists, using some toe-screws to hold it all in place. This'll hold up the floor at least, and as another has mentioned we'll do something similar inside the room to support the ceiling...somewhat depending on whether it's a load bearing wall or if it's just supporting a gable end, where sometimes you may be able to take a 2x8 or 10 and screw it into the studs along the wall to support it temporarily while you gut underneath it. Always make sure you support it, and when you replace what's rotten, you may need to raise the bottle jacks a tad if the entire room's structure has started sinking...so the bottle jacks actually serve a dual fold purpose of holding it all in place, and you're already setup if you need to gently raise the structure back up! (use a good one though! A decend 20 ton jack will run ya $75-100, but last years and years!)
> 
> I'd sure think about just replacing everything with treated lumber, I normally do just for good measure, though if you take care of the problem that caused it, you're overkill at that point!
> 
> Oh, and PS...do the next guy a favor, do the job right and get rid of everything that's rotted and bad!!! Can't tell you how many times I've had to go back to do some repair work to something someone else put a band-aid over only to find that everything that was rotted was left in place and 'sistered' to...looks bad when it's only 1/2 a job done!!!


I've thought about a bottle jack. Looks that will be a must. I like the idea. I've never put a band-aid on something. Hard to tell if that is a contractor idea or a customer's checkbook idea.


----------



## mstrat (Jul 10, 2013)

seabterry said:


> I've thought about a bottle jack. Looks that will be a must. I like the idea. I've never put a band-aid on something. Hard to tell if that is a contractor idea or a customer's checkbook idea.


Sometimes it's contractor, sometimes it's the customer being cheap...or sometimes they truly can't afford to do it right...but dang, nothing worse than nice clean lumber screwed into rotted (or worse yet...termite eaten) old lumber that wasn't cut out...just when you think you've seen it all, you see something else! 

Bottle jacks work wonders on a project like you're up against though...I've seen structures drop quite a bit, and if you just build a temporary support wall under any of it, you'll be up against rigging up a jacking system anyway, so why not save a step! As always, be careful though, keep the jacks plumb, don't let them kick out and have someone get hurt!! I normally dig out a nice flat portion and put a solid concrete block under it so it doesn't sink in some sand or anything!


----------



## Dustincoc (Sep 14, 2011)

Demo to the foundation and start from scratch.:laughing:

Truthfully, first thing I'd do is get all the drywall out of the interior since there was mold and mold loves the back of drywall. Pull insulation from the wall in question ans take a look at the back of the sheathing, that will give an indication as to how high up the wall the rot goes. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to check the entire room since your already there and its easy access. If the rot is isolated to the lower 1 1/2' or so of the wall in question, you could carefully pull the siding off the lower 3' and replace everything thats rotted with PT. then resheath with appropriate thickness PT plywood to match existing and reinstall the siding. If the damage goes any further up the wall or more than just the wall in question has problems, I'd carefully pull all the siding, strip all the walls to framing, replace everything rotten with PT, add blocking if necessary for the new deck, sheath the lower 4' with 3/4" PT ply and regular 3/4" ply above that, foam sheet insulation if desired, vapor barrier, maybe some vertical battons to space the siding out from the wall so moisture can escape, reinstall the siding. Then insulate wall cavities from inside, drywall and finish. Also make sure if theres going to be a new deck that it be correctly flashed since that may be the moisture source for the rot your finding. 

I'd also suggest stripping the roof. The leak has probably been going on a lot longer than it has been known and the roof sheathing may be in as bad of shape as that wall. Those shingles look a bit worse for the wear and I'd hate to see the new interior ruined by a leak that can be prevented with a little work now. 

May seem like a lot of work but not looking and hoping for the best is probably the worse thing you could do with just patching it up a bit a close second. All the great work in the interior is just cosmetic. If the structure isn't there, all the great interior work in the world is useless. If the budget isn't there now, I'd recommend doing the structural stuff first then finishing the interior as money allows. If you do the interior first you'll just have to rip it back apart to get to the structural in the future. You are lucky in the fact that its just a relatively small addition your working on, the costs shouldn't be too outragous even for everything I've listed relative to a much larger structure.

If you suspect leaks may be a common occurance in the future or where the walls may take abuse, I'd suggest using GP Densarmor drywall since it in impervious to water(water just beads up on the surface) and also has no organic matter for mold to grow on. It's also great for walls that will take a good amount of abuse such as kids bedrooms since you can hit it with a hammer and it doesn't ding.

Oh no, I thing I'm starting to sound like Mike Holmes...:blink::sad::sad::sad:


----------



## seabterry (Jun 21, 2012)

What would you guys use as the anchors in the existing foundation for the sill plate?


----------



## Cutonce (Oct 1, 2010)

Why do I feel like I've stepped into the DIY forum? Seriously, if you don't know what you are doing, then you probably shouldn't be doing it.


----------



## seabterry (Jun 21, 2012)

Cutonce said:


> Why do I feel like I've stepped into the DIY forum? Seriously, if you don't know what you are doing, then you probably shouldn't be doing it.


Lets calm down. I just want to know if a wedge anchor or an anchor side plate should be used. I was asking for advice. My first post lays out what I wanted to do. I used this thread for advice. But, it is OK to respond with that comment if I message you and ask you to show me how to do something.


----------



## redwood (Dec 5, 2007)

I've run into these problems way too many times and hate it every time. Sometimes these repairs cost more then building from scratch.

The advice you have been given is good. Temporarily support everything you can. 

Unfortunately, it looks like you are going to have to deal with the subfloor, as well.

Many times sistering is a good option. Cut out the damaged portions and then sister new material to it. Such as the bottom of a stud. In your case, if you are removing the drywall on the inside, you might be able to replace a whole stud, but many times it's not worth the effort.


----------



## ArtisanRemod (Dec 25, 2012)

My local scaffolding company rents the beams and screw jacks and assists in designing the support system. This, done correctly, is not a cheap repair. Do you have a permit?


----------



## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

From the sound of things and pics you posted, plus it looks like a fairly small addition, you will most likely do well to strip the inside down to framing.

I have done a couple of these nasty little cusses and the damage was far greater than what was immediately apparent.

Additionally if you have mold anywhere on the face of your interior walls then you almost certainly have even more inside those walls.

From your few pictures you could have rot in rafters, sheathing, studs, rim board obviously, joists... simply no way to know you have gotten all the rot/mold without skinning the inside. 

Good luck, you're gonna have fun. :laughing:


----------



## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

I had a similar repair recently.Seems every deck I replace lately has had some flashing problems that led to lots or rot.

The last one had plaster walls which I wasn't about to get into so I carefully removed bottom plate and the bottom of the rotten studs.
I ran a bead of construction adhesive along the remaining structurally sound sides of the studs where they met the back of the plaster, and on the replaced portions of studs after replacement.
Used 3" ledgerloks instead of nails (so not to disturb plaster) to sister up on the cut studs for strength.

As others have said,run the temp supports and cut out all the rot.
Work up the wall till you see solid wood.

Some pics of my repair:


----------



## seabterry (Jun 21, 2012)

moorewarner said:


> From the sound of things and pics you posted, plus it looks like a fairly small addition, you will most likely do well to strip the inside down to framing.
> 
> I have done a couple of these nasty little cusses and the damage was far greater than what was immediately apparent.
> 
> ...


I am actually pretty excited to get started. I love stuff like this. After one day I will probably hate the entire job. I have a separate quote already in to redo the entire inside of the room. That number went in before this number.


----------



## seabterry (Jun 21, 2012)

oldfrt said:


> I had a similar repair recently.Seems every deck I replace lately has had some flashing problems that led to lots or rot.
> 
> The last one had plaster walls which I wasn't about to get into so I carefully removed bottom plate and the bottom of the rotten studs.
> I ran a bead of construction adhesive along the remaining structurally sound sides of the studs where they met the back of the plaster, and on the replaced portions of studs after replacement.
> ...


I find it a lot too. The last house was rot in the second floor dormer soffit. That. Was. Not. Fun.


----------



## Hand Drive (Sep 6, 2011)

from the pic of you standing up on the roof downspout shot it looks like that roof is to flat for the shingles that cover it. even with the downspout pouring full blast across that spot the shingles"" should"" keep the water out. I've seen many downspouts that spit out onto a shingled roof and the only time there is an issue is if the shingles are not correct for the pitch of the roof. re positioning the downspout is the correct thing to do but - about the roof??


----------



## Imakenice (Jul 9, 2013)

For supporting you should be able to rent bottle jacks, cheaper than buying if it's a one time thing.. aluma-beams work as well as 2x lumber, whatever is most cost efficient I guess. Done this work before using that combo.


----------



## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

Jacking from the inside is safer than jacking from the outside in my opinion. Building up cribbing for bottle jacks and lifting all the joists with a beam is pretty reliable. Since you're doing two sides of the room then the jacking will relieve most of the pressure on the plate that is parallel to the joists as well.

Exterior jacking is iffy unless you know exactly what the load is and where the studs are. You also have to deal with potentially dangerous soil conditions around the foundation.

I'd strip the interior walls as there's no point in leaving potentially moldy drywall and the jacking is likely to mess up the seams anyway. I'd also strip back that siding to make sure you've gotten all the rot.


----------



## koa (Feb 15, 2011)

Replacing everything will probably be faster and cheaper in the long run but with that being said I have been building a new deck for a friend after tearing out the old rotted one. Along the way I have been repairing rotted areas using West Systems G-Flex Epoxy. I cut out the rotted areas and then use overlapping joints and epoxy. The joint is probably stronger than the original new wood. The epoxy is expensive and takes hours to setup. West Systems has a great website and you can call for technical help. A Fein Multimaster made the joints easier.

Unfortunately I only have a pic after repairs (last pic), but the beam supporting the floor joists between the two posts in the primed area was very rotted along with the siding. Cut out rotted sections and laminated new wood. Milled new matching redwood siding and trim and epoxied it all together with biscuits. Also lagged in a 2X to the back of beam. 

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/


----------

