# Argument Clarification, Professional Painters using Tape



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Me and a couple of guys had a friendly arguement about professional painters using painters tape for cutting walls where it meets the ceilings. 

They claim that in very high end jobs in NYC, professional painters use tape when cutting walls into ceilings. 

My point I made is that only a steady hand, with a good loaded brush, and good taping, is all what you basically need.


I mentioned, no matter how good of a taper, hanger, framer, you can never get a 100% straight corner that will make it easy for tape. Also, can a man actually tape straight enought to have a sharp paint line. What about when you pull the tape?



Professionals, please state your input, I would like to show them this thread. 
Maybe there right, who knows, but from past experiences, the brush is proven, dont get me wrong, tape has its place.
Thanks


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## finehomes (Feb 4, 2007)

I was a painter for 7 years before I started building. I never tape walls....only trim and cabinets, etc. Always cut in walls to ceilings freehand. Just did one the other day....looks nice and clean.


Sam


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## capital city (Mar 29, 2008)

Only for accent walls, wall to wall, never wall to ceiling.


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## antnepi (Aug 26, 2008)

I always cut in a wall to ceiling free hand. I very seldom use tape unless it is a tight spot.


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## BMAN (Aug 21, 2006)

Tape lines look terrible unless you caulk them and pull them before the paint dries. I don't care for the tape method of cutting.


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## NAV (Sep 5, 2008)

I agree with everyone, i would never use tape to cut in a ceiling its a waist of time and money for something that will not look as good as freehand.

How would you tape if the ceiling is textured?


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## DavidC (Feb 16, 2008)

I'm not a professional painter, but I play one occassionally as a GC remodeler.

We don't tape unless the job is going to well and we have to muck something up. 

Good Luck
Dave


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Tape is for masking, or holding plastic in place. It is not for cutting in with a brush. Period. Those who _need_ tape to cut in with need to learn how to handle a brush IMHO.


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## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

That should be more than enough to quiet these tapers-gone-mad!


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

MALCO.New.York said:


> That should be more than enough to quiet these tapers-gone-mad!


:laughing: I should hope so!


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## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

Especially DavidC's comments!!!! Classic!


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Tape? the stuff that even when you have to use it the paint still seeps under the edge? I thought it was for color coding different things.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Normally, I do not tape for cutting purposes. I do use it for taping plastic. My guestion is, how do some of you protect chair rail from roller splatter? I do like someone else said. I run tape along the top of the rail and let the unattached tape run perpendicular to the rail.


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## CaptainAmerica (Jul 10, 2008)

boman47k said:


> Normally, I do not tape for cutting purposes. I do use it for taping plastic. My guestion is, how do some of you protect chair rail from roller splatter? I do like someone else said. I run tape along the top of the rail and let the unattached tape run perpendicular to the rail.


I saturate my roller nap, and go slow and tight, keeping well away from the chair rail until the naps good and soaked with paint. Than it's ON! 

In my experience it's mostly a matter of getting a feel for your roller. Of course there are some paints and surfaces in which preventing splatter is made more difficult.


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

boman47k said:


> My guestion is, how do some of you protect chair rail from roller splatter?





ProWallGuy said:


> Tape is for masking


:whistling


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

CaptainAmerica said:


> I saturate my roller nap, and go slow and tight, keeping well away from the chair rail until the naps good and soaked with paint. Than it's ON!
> 
> In my experience it's *mostly a matter of getting a feel for your roller*. Of course there are some paints and surfaces in which preventing splatter is made more difficult.


One job in particular that comes to mind with 10 ft ceilings and a chair rail. I was using a good 1/2" roller with, I think Pro Classic acrylic, and noticed tiny specs on the rail. To tell the truth, I am not sure they were my specks, but I decided to tape the rail off in case they were. Believe me, I am no speed roller.
I also seemed to be having an off day on cutting in some places with that job, so I taped the rail tight to the wall and cut it in while it was taped. BUt I did not worry about the tape be straight, so to speak. I allowed excess on the wall, pushed it down tight with my 5 in 1, and cut and peeled the excess off the wall. This made for a nice straight line between the wall and the rail.


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## Mellison (Aug 3, 2008)

Freehand Baby, Freehand!!!
Unless of course you have a case of the DTs


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## hockeyman001 (Sep 7, 2006)

Whenever I need to cut edges (particularly around fascia boards or the eaves on a home if a different color than the siding), the siding can be easily edged by hand but sometimes the boards can get tricky (especially if the H/O wants the sides of the fascia board to match the trim rather than the siding). You have to be in somewhat of an unnatural position to do this particularly if on a ladder so what I will do is take a straight edge up with me and angle it against the board I am painting so that it "blocks" my brush from hitting the siding with the trim color.. this is usually quite effective but you will need a very steady off hand to hold the straight edge in place because you will be moving it alongside you brush as you go. It doesn't slow you down much at all either, much faster than setting up tape to edge. I know Im talking about exteriors but particularly around the eaves you have a similar situation as you'd have on a ceiling in a home and Ive seen some H/O's that are very picky about that particularly on first floor eaves they want it perfect b/c they think people will judge them on that :laughing: but this is just my 2c...


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## CaptainAmerica (Jul 10, 2008)

hockeyman001 said:


> Whenever I need to cut edges (particularly around fascia boards or the eaves on a home if a different color than the siding), the siding can be easily edged by hand but sometimes the boards can get tricky (especially if the H/O wants the sides of the fascia board to match the trim rather than the siding). You have to be in somewhat of an unnatural position to do this particularly if on a ladder so what I will do is take a straight edge up with me and angle it against the board I am painting so that it "blocks" my brush from hitting the siding with the trim color.. this is usually quite effective but you will need a very steady off hand to hold the straight edge in place because you will be moving it alongside you brush as you go. It doesn't slow you down much at all either, much faster than setting up tape to edge. I know Im talking about exteriors but particularly around the eaves you have a similar situation as you'd have on a ceiling in a home and Ive seen some H/O's that are very picky about that particularly on first floor eaves they want it perfect b/c they think people will judge them on that :laughing: but this is just my 2c...


 
:blink:


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## painterdude (Aug 4, 2008)

Tape...used for top of vinly molding, holding poly, masking medicine cabinets in tight corners that have been cemented in and most importantly to hold on paper towel when you've cut yourself with 5 in one or razor blade knife....painters bandage. pd


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