# Prehung Door Hanging - 15 versus 16 gauge nails



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Getting down to buying a nailer, I am limited to 2 guns.

For door hanging, casings, and base.

My question is, is 16 gauge _usually_ sufficient for hollow core prehung units? Or is 15 gauge really needed? And will the wider 15 tend to split jambs?

The 18 gauge finish nailer is a given for me.

Much appreciate anyone's shared experience, as always...

BTW - in past years I've come across "glued nails" (very hard to reverse) but don't see them locally. Where can they be gotten?


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## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

I use a 16g but don't do it every day. The more experienced guys will know better.


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## Defenestrate (Aug 13, 2015)

First, a 15g isn't going to split jambs... 

But the difference between the two sizes is pretty subtle. Until my 16g was lost, I'd pretty much consider them interchangeable.

If I could have only one, I'd get the 15.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

I only use a 15 and 18. I have zero use for a 16. I use 15 to connect trim to framing members and 18 to connect trim to trim.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

16 all the way for hollow core. Anything bigger is a waste of time, and fastener money. 15 ga doesn't look as nice when painted. With a 16 you can use the same gun for jambs and casing. Just shim above the top and center hinge, & shoot over & under top hinge. At the bottom hinge, shim & shoot below. I've lived in my all stain home with solid pine doors for almost 30 years, with zero movement. There isn no caulking on stain doors to help the fastener either, like their is on painted trim.
Joe


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

15ga for jamb, 18ga for casing. The holes that my 16ga and 15ga leave are very slight in difference. 

Unless you're nailing on 3/4" (or thicker) trim, there really is no need for anything larger than 18ga.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

16GA, no problems with hollow core.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Why not _always_ use the angled nailer, as opposed to the standard models?


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

artinall said:


> Why not _always_ use the angled nailer, as opposed to the standard models?


 I've never understood why you need an angled trim nailer. The only advantage is the reach, & that is only if your're shooting the nail at an angle. It would seem to get you closer to the nail spot, but in reality, both have the piston cylinder in the same place. I'm of the opinion that a nail should be put in square to the work, with very few exceptions, ie cross nailing at no wood backing areas.. At times, an angled magazine just makes it a harder reach to square up the nails. 

For framing, it's a whole nother ball game though. There are tons of reasons why an angled is the only way to go.

I say this after framing for 20 years, and running a 12 man interior trim business, and yes I had, & have, angled trim guns.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Pull the stop and hide screws behind it...no nails visible in the jamb. Use 18 or 23 to put stop back on.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

overanalyze said:


> Pull the stop and hide screws behind it...no nails visible in the jamb. Use 18 or 23 to put stop back on.


Most I get don't have removable stops.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

hdavis said:


> Most I get don't have removable stops.


Split jambs? We haven't used split jambs in a long time.


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## dutchroots2 (Sep 20, 2016)

I use 16 gauge 2 1/2" for hanging jambs, 16 gauge 2" for base and back edge of door casing, 18 gauge for front edge of casing into jamb.

My lumber yard makes up the jambs themselves, so they come with no stop, which I prefer. Then you can hang the jambs primarily with nails under where the stop will go. Add screws there for solid core.


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## john5mt (Jan 21, 2007)

Screws under the stop on the hinge side.

18ga for everything else


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

And what about setting 1 x 4 closet shelf cleats? 

18 gauge brad nailer do it?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I don't think 18s do much in that case. People load up those shelves pretty heavy at times. 4 16s, or screws.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

hdavis said:


> 4 16s...


What kind of 16's?


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Construction adhesive, & 16ga. I've lived in a home for over 30 years done this way. Not one failure, even with way overloaded shelves.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

artinall said:


> What kind of 16's?


Short enough you don't hit wire. 2" or 1 3/4" if there are wires, 2 1/2 if there aren't.


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## JFM constr (Jul 26, 2014)

if only two guns i would go 15 and 18 .if only one 16 .
as for hollow core door hangs -you could tack the casing on one side ,set the door , apply casing to other side and move on .hollow core door does not require much to hold it up . i believe years ago reading an article by Gary Katz on the subject of hanging hollow core doors with the casing . 

and like previous poster said -throw a screw in if your concerned or it needs tweeking .


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