# Trailer: Customizing ideas needed. Long



## Robie

I finally am able to upgrade my 6 x 10 cargo trailer to an 8.5 x 16. It will be 8 weeks before it’s here and I want to get a jump-start on customizing the interior. I have gone back through all the archived posts on this site and have come up with a few ideas. I want to build this thing right…one time, the first time, and am looking for any and all ideas for what is needed. I intend to make use of every inch of space, while still allowing me to freely move around. Picking Big Dave’s brain has been useful, as he has recently purchased the same trailer. 
I do custom woodworking and handyman type stuff, so there will be a little bit of everything stored in this trailer.
Some of my ideas so far:
20” deep cabinets on both sides, with workbenches on both sides. All doors and drawers will be inset to help alleviate corners that can get in the way. I’m thinking about making the drawer boxes out of different species of wood so customers can see what the different species look like. The faces will be all maple. All will be made with dovetails and have heavy duty full extension slides. I want to get away from all the plastic cases the power tools come in, so each tool will have a specific place in a drawer. The top, shallower drawers will get chisels, marking & measuring devices, etc. On one side, over the bench, will be a backboard to secure holders for screwdrivers, nut drivers, pliers, wrenches, etc.
Like Dave, I want to have room to lay full sheets of plywood on the floor. The cabs will have a 3” high toe-kick, so drawers and doors can be opened if material is on the floor. I’m thinking of screwing down a full sheet of ¾” ply on top of the factory floor and installing 2 T-tracks 20” apart. This will allow me to use a few designs of track hold-downs if I want to secure a pressure washer, lawn mower or keep a stack of plywood in place. They can be removed when not needed and the track will be flush mounted.
I ordered a marine battery with the trailer, which gets charged when the truck is running. It will allow for 12V power if the trailer is remote and un-hooked from the truck. I’m planning on two; 8’ cold start florescent fixtures powered by 110V. I want to design a system so that when I’m plugged in, the battery gets maintained and I have plenty of 110V outlets. I’ll be asking some more questions about that setup further down the road.
There will be a dedicated, insulated box to hold tubes of caulk. It will have a light bulb installed in it to keep from freezing.
I’m thinking about installing a plastic bin of some sort, attached to a dolly to hold opened bags of drywall compound, concrete, etc (anything that gives a puff of dust if you touch it) This will be kept in a separate cabinet with a door.
There will be an on-board 30-gallon compressor, with spring-loaded hose-reel. This is an upright unit, which I’ll probably elevate a little to make it easier to drain.
Separate cabinet with custom hold-downs for brooms, extension poles, sanding poles, etc. These are always in the way.
I’m a coffee freak and will have a coffee maker somewhere. I’m considering a small stainless bar sink with a 5-gallon water supply overhead and wastewater drainage underneath a cabinet. It’s a PITA when there is just no place to wash a brush and it’s too cold to use the garden hose.
I’m thinking about putting 4 aluminum ladder racks on top. Though this has an extended roof height of 7.5 ft., I want to be able to carry a good ladder supply. I’m also thinking of making an 18 ft. long box, 6” high x 12” wide out of MDO. It would be attached to the ladder racks. This would give me a dry place to carry some lumber/moldings, etc., without being under foot.
2 floodlights mounted in the rear, to the ladder racks for those “late-day, time to pack up all your stuff” moments.
Okay, that’s about it so far. I’m looking for a “think tank” here with ideas of what I might be missing. I want to compile a list of pretty much everything that will be inside and start the layout process.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob


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## DecksEtc

Robie,

Sounds like you've got a pretty good plan in place. I'm still at the 6' x 10' stage and haven't had the time to get overhead cupboards or power into mine yet - that's my winter project.

Anyway, one suggestion that I would make is to not remove your power tools from their cases. The reason I say this, and this is personal choice, is that I would find it to be a real PITA to have to take my tools back and forth from the trailer to the work site without the cases. With that said, a lot of my work is in people's back yards so no matter how close I get to park my trailer, I'm always carrying my power tools to the work site area.

Again, just my opinion...


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## scottstef

do you need workbenches on both sides of the trailer? wouldn't one work area be sufficient and using the other side for more storage be more helpful? i am sure you will fill up the other side.

something else i saw in a woodworking mag- put drawers under your cabinets where the toe kicks are. you then have some more storage in what would otherwise be wasted storage space.


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## Big Dave

Reading your idea about the toe kick area gave me the idea to have the raised toe kick but have acces to the space from the back. It will give you a place to store long lengths of lumber or your paint sticks and brooms. I would make access holes along the way in case something slides to the front.


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## Chris G

What about a rollout canopy on one side. I know you've got lots of room in there, but it's always nice, (and sometimes necessary) to work outside. You could keep extra stuff dry in the case of a shower, or be able to work out of the direct sun on hot days, (I imagine it will get hot in the trailer too). 

Sounds like a great sutup so far though!


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## Big Dave

Chris G said:


> What about a rollout canopy on one side. I know you've got lots of room in there, but it's always nice, (and sometimes necessary) to work outside. You could keep extra stuff dry in the case of a shower, or be able to work out of the direct sun on hot days, (I imagine it will get hot in the trailer too).
> 
> Sounds like a great sutup so far though!


Yea, I've been wanting a rollout canopy also. I just haven't ponied up the money yet.


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## Robie

Yeah, this is what I'm talkin' about! I didn't think of using the area at the toe-kicks. There's my broom/pole/extension storage! 
I priced out the canopy for install at the factory. $878 for a 14'. I think it will be on the list as when it's just a fine mist..you're covered and when it's 102* you can pick up your combination square without suffering 1st degree burns.
Thanks! Keep 'em coming.


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## Chris G

I don't know how much walking in and out of the trailer you do, but it might be nice to have 3 x 3 foot steel grate with a pan underneath at one of the doorways. If it's muddy, mucky, or snowy outside you just stomp your boots on the grate when you walk in. Or you could grate the whole floor, but that would ugly. 

You gonna put a stereo in there?


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## Big Dave

I priced a canapy at a local RV store and they had a 15' for between 5 and 6 hundred.


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## RobertCDF

Shoot I have a heater on mine that keeps the whole box warm. It is better for your tools if they dont get down to freezing temps all the time. Especially cordless tools and batteries. Of course I plug my trailer in at the customers house and leave it there. So they pay the heating bill on the trailer.

I also put a refrigerator, microwave, toaster oven, and coffee pot in mine. I also have a portable camping grill that I will probably toss in there when the summer rolls back around.


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## RobertCDF

I almost forgot LOCKS AND ALARMS! most inportant thing. Do a couple differant locks. As no one lock is safe (even hidden shakle key locks as there is a very simple way to get around those. PM me for details as I dont want to give theives ideas on a public forum) and INSURANCE! Get a wheel boot or 2 for the wheels and get a good tounge lock. I am going to be setting up 2 alarms for redundancy purposes in mine.


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## Robie

The security issue hasn't been a concern as yet. I take my trailer home each night and so far my neighborhood isn't too bad.
The stereo is something else I haven't thought of. I don't listen to a radio while working too often but it would be nice to have something small to use while cleaning/packing up, etc.
It would be nice to have ac and heat but that may be down the road. This trailer will come through without a ceiling. I'm planning on adding white fiberglass sheets after I do dome wiring. Do you think it's worth the time and effort to install some insulation while I'm at it? The sun beating down on a hot day on that roof must make the temps go up. Seems to me some styrofoam insulation would help some.
Also looking for a way to store shorts of molding copper pipe, pvc. Any ideas there?


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## Big Dave

Definately insulate it. I didn't have mine done when I ordered it and regret it now However with the ceiling in it, it does stay cooler than you would think. ON the hot summer days this year as long as I left the side and back doors open it never got hot at all.


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## Robie

Just wondering what the proper setup is to have a compressed air fitting on the outside of the trailer. Can anyone explain or direct me?
Thanks.


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## Chris G

Don't know if you'll be doing any finishing in there, (poly and stuff), but a roof vent with a fan might help in the winter when you don't feel like having the door open. Might help cool it in the summer too. 

Are there clear panels on the roof to let light in? Hmmm...you're putting in a ceiling though...If I were my trailer, I would love to have natural light in there. Structurally, I don't know how much those roofs can hold.. But maybe a couple of solid glass sunroofs wold be nice. Aw what the hell, get some big ass electrical retractable ones.

Plus, a disco ball would be nice, maybe down the road...


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## Teetorbilt

There is a guy here that does Teak decking. He put a small door in the front of the trailer with a roller the same height as his tablesaw. He feeds from the rear and the board can pass through the front.


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## Mike Finley

Sounds like you have a great plan so far. One thing you might consider is a solar powered fan on the roof. They make them for marine applications in different sizes, but all you do is cut the hole mount it and forget about it. When that sun beats down the things run automatically and keep the air circulating and help pull out the heat.
They seem reliable as all hell, I've had one running everyday on my boat for about 5 years now.


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## RobertCDF

Robie said:


> Just wondering what the proper setup is to have a compressed air fitting on the outside of the trailer. Can anyone explain or direct me?
> Thanks.


I just used 1/4" Galvi pipe. You could use black pipe too if you wanted to. I drilled a hole and fed a 2" piece through and put a T outside with 2 quick disconects. Then I put a hose end on the inside and attached a 3' piece. Added a nipple on the end of the hose and plugged it into the compressor. Works great for me. My compressor has 2 outlets so I can still use one inside if I need to. This would be something you will want to add if yours does not have 2 fittings.


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## Eric K

I built custom trailers for about 5yrs. I have lots of ideas and methods when working on trailers. Any specific questions feel free to ask me. I also have a few pics of some things Ive done that were trailer proofed. I tryed reading through the original post but its late and my eyes hurt. :thumbup:


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## Teetorbilt

Robie, you can PM me about pneumatic systems. I have a few simple tricks.


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## Chris G

I see this thing around town every once in awhile. I had my camera in my truck, so I snapped a pic at the stop light. Hope you can make it out. It has a glass canopy on the front half of the bed. And a metal shop at the back. I think it's a promo vehicle for a bar or something.


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## Cashking63

I have a water proof plastic box inset in the side of my trailer. It has a door that seals it closed. In that i mounted a Galv. pipe with air fitting and got a reverse plug ( like you find on semi trucks for block heaters) to plug the trailer in. i ran 110 all through with plugs and Flouro lights.


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## jibbers

*Hi Eric*



Eric K said:


> I built custom trailers for about 5yrs. I have lots of ideas and methods when working on trailers. Any specific questions feel free to ask me. I also have a few pics of some things Ive done that were trailer proofed. I tryed reading through the original post but its late and my eyes hurt. :thumbup:


 I'd love to check out some of those interior trailer photos, Thanks !!


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## Stewy

How about a portable toilet or rv toilet and tank


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## AustinDB

hey guys-what's up with these ancient threads popping up. It's because of the search feature returning 'similar threads' at the bottom of the page. Here I was ready to give the OP advice...


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## MALCO.New.York

Yeah! No siht!


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## Dadx4

*Robie's Trailer?*

Hey Robie, I know this is an old thread. Just wondering how your trailer setup worked out .
I am looking to outfit a 7x14 (Double back doors, single side) for construction - after working out of my truck for WAAAY TOO LONG I would appreciate the feedback or pictures of what you found worked for you. Anyone Elses ideas much appreciated.
Thanks


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## rojigga

Here are some pics of mine taken with my crappy camera phone; I know when I bought my trailer I wanted ideas and there weren't many examples on here... My trailer (8.5X20) is 80% setup.... Just need to add the toolbox/microwave and some shelving at the front of it.


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## MALCO.New.York

rojigga said:


> Here are some pics of mine taken with my crappy camera phone; I know when I bought my trailer I wanted ideas and there weren't many examples on here... My trailer (8.5X20) is 80% setup.... Just need to add the toolbox/microwave and some shelving at the front of it.


That my Friend.........I _WAAAAAY_ BEYOND SWEET!


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## Dadx4

*Reply to rojigga*

Nice job. Your trailer is a bit wider which allows a wider center corridor and fixtures on both sides. I am playing with the layout a bit to decide whether to bench only the one side. I'm surprised you fit a metal break in. I can see some real possibilities . Thanks


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## Vrooman

We just got a 7x16 v nose trailer a few months ago. We nearly have it all set up how we want. We ordered it with a slip proof floor and got E-track on one wall. We didnt order it insulated, but now think we should have.
We ran power in there, so you just plug it in and you can have chargers or a heater running in there. put a built in microwave (not pictured) and flip down tool shelves.
We built a work bench up front that you can read blueprints on, or eat lunch at. everything has its place and is easy to get at, still needs some improvement which will be done in the future.

Anyone ever try heating an uninsulated trailer with 110 heat? I will be trying it this winter, hopefully i can get it to at least -5C.

here is some pics


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## rojigga

Thanks guys. I prob would have made the shelving/workbench on either side wider but I wanted to keep the aisle at least 4' wide to accommodate material or scaffolding. As it is it's about 4'6" for some wiggle room when transporting things. 

I've got a crew cab long box 1 ton with a rack and when I move sites it's fully loaded with planks, cutting tables, sawhorses and material... and whatever else; having the trailer to transport the stuff that won't fit on my truck is a life saver when traveling across town. I hate making multiple trips and the time wasted when doing so.

Ps. Just brought power in (for the lights)- gonna add a few more receptacles in various places... Then add a heater in the back to keep the caulking/adhesive usable and keep my batteries from freezing... I feel like it could be getting real cold soon- Damn you Canada!


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## Vrooman

Also bought some nice nail tubs from Dollarama more pics


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## rojigga

Vrooman said:


> Anyone ever try heating an uninsulated trailer with 110 heat? I will be trying it this winter, hopefully i can get it to at least -5C.


BC's interior isn't nearly as temperature crazy as manitoba so I'm hoping to keep my stuff above zero... Even if it is just a few feet around the heater!


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## Vrooman

one more


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## MALCO.New.York

Vrooman said:


> one more


Trailer Porn!!!!!!!! Gotta Love It!


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## Dadx4

*vrooman*

WoW! Nice job. Looks like you could eat off the floor . I like the layout and it helps that you have basically the same trailer.


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## Vrooman

thanks guys, lots of late nights thinking and building and painting and drinking to make it work for us.

got some pics of the outside, its pretty dirty right now, it sees a lot of use


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## MALCO.New.York

That is a NICE Fookin' LOGO. Simple is the way!!!!!!!

AS I often say to LeoG.....You suck and I really dislike you!!!!!:clap::laughing:


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## rojigga

Just looking at your pics of the door locks you have- they look good. I've been thinking about figuring out the best system of securing my trailer... Vrooman, if someone were to cut the arm that enters your lock wouldn't that effectively bypass that lock? Or does that box lock it somehow from the inside?

It seems to me that there's always a weakspot in securing doors with swing arms or exposed locks.

I was thinking remote actuators to deadbolt from the inside? I've had to break into my trailer a couple of times and wow is it easy.


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## Newera

woodchuck2 said:


> Show us some pics of the rear ramp that slides under, i wish mine had something like that. I just may have to build something.


These pics are from the trailer manufacturer, I haven't seen it in person. The ramp is made of aluminum and is about 4' wide and 5' long. It was a $350 option.


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## s. donato

that ramp is worth its weight in gold you get the best of both worlds a ramp for easy up and down and storage space on the doors. 

i wonder if they sell it separate that you could buy it and install on any trailer.


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## john5mt

*What happens when u dont take the time to Organize your trailer when you first get it*


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## stp57

Nice job John.
Brighten up that trailer with some l.e.d lights. I got mine from this company:
http://www.oznium.com/flexible-5mm-led-dome

They offer alot of different colors & a ton of adapters to fit just about any kind of dome light.

I went to Pickapart & got three dome light assemblies out of Toyota van's (Seinna? sp?) for $11 total. The 2"x2" flexible led board fits into them perfectly & give much more light than the standard light bulb does. They only use 1 watt of power v.s 12-18W for the incandescent bulbs. Cool white seems to be the best color to work by.
There are cheaper led boards out there, but I haven't seen the flexible ones or the variety of colors that Oznium has.
Steve


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## woodchuck2

Newera said:


> These pics are from the trailer manufacturer, I haven't seen it in person. The ramp is made of aluminum and is about 4' wide and 5' long. It was a $350 option.


 Very nice, exactly what i had in mind. Do the sections come apart or are they welded to gether to become one ramp? Looks like they are held in by a hitch pin. I prefer the barn doors so you dont need the extra room to open the back up but a ramp would be nice so i dont have to do "the stair stepper" all day getting tools and supplies. A buddy of mine has worked with me on a few jobs andhe hauls around a 20' enclosed with the ramp door in the rear. He tends to take up alot of space in the yard just so he can drop the ramp and the ground needs to be fairly level. Thanks for the pics.


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## Newera

woodchuck2 said:


> Very nice, exactly what i had in mind. Do the sections come apart or are they welded to gether to become one ramp?


They are welded together to make a single ramp but I guess you have the option of ordering the amount of sections you need. There is still a 3-4" step from the ramp to the floor, but most tools on wheels will easily roll up the step.

I figured I would have to carry a step or ramp with me all the time, but once I found out they had this option, I knew this wouldn't be an issue.


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## Lyle Clark

dljones said:


> thanks lely
> yes please put togeather a price incl shipping to area code 204 (not like youre busy) i really appreciate your time and effort i cant get this much service from stores in town and here you are helping from thousands of mi away thank you
> dane


Sorry Dane,
Been dealing with illness, and getting on web wasn't a priority. I would send you a PM later with some questions, but send me e-mail so I can have yours..
They are FINALLY shipping product next week.

lyle at trailer-alarms.com


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## dljones

hi lyle
no problem, dont know how to pm and stuff
my e-mail is [email protected]
let me know what you need to know and ill get back to ya
hope you are feeling better
thank you d. jones


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## Cole82

Do you guys use tool chests in your trailers? I come from a mechanic back ground and am thinking it would be nice in my trailer. 
My Dad who I worked construction with for a very long time never used a trailer. So I am still trying to get my trailer setup better, I've only had it a short time.
Right now I have large plastic bins with tools and supplies in them. I'm not digging it that much.
Cole


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## woodchuck2

I have considered putting in an older crapsman top box that i have laying around just for all the sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers/nut drivers and pliers so i can be rid of the extra tools boxes. Problem is the only place i have to put it is on one of the shelves in the front and the trailer has too much tongue weight already. I have seen other trailers where the owners chose to install a 40" top and bottom box and some just use the bottom box for tools. Its not a bad idea just for me i dont have enough room in my trailer for a large box.


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## CScalf

john5mt said:


>



That's not unorganized, I will post a pic of mine, I will show you unorganized. :biggrin: maybe tomorrow, if i got time.


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## RussellF

All that weight on the drivers side is going to be hell on that side tire......


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## Rawhide

*Robbie-air connection request*

An alternative to drilling a hole through the side of your trailerit is to drill a hole in the floor just large enough for the male and your air hose to pass through my then plug it into your compressor inside the trailer. Run the hose into the job and use splitter to feed multiple lines. That way, you can keep your trailer locked up and not have to hear the compressor noise while you are working in the house. I run an electric line from the house or power source out to the trailer, then run the air hose into the house. When I am not using the air, I disconnect the hose and nobody knows there's a compressor in the trailer. Those who piped through the wall telegraph to thieves that there is a compressor to be stolen inside.


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## csv

Yeah,all these are way more organized than mine is. I have only had 4 months or so, havent had time to do much to it so my tools take up most of the floor. I have got a lot of ideas from here, thanks


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## Santa's Helpers

I'll try to post some pics this week but, organization is great. Place things that you use most near doors so you don't have to climb in to access them.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Had a little tidy up and rearrange this morning and took some pics.


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## The Coastal Craftsman




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## Santa's Helpers

excellent trailer setup. You have really taken your time to organize and do it with style.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Santa's Helpers said:


> excellent trailer setup. You have really taken your time to organize and do it with style.


Thanks Santa's Helpers. The main thing was to make sure i had all the tools i wanted ready to lay out the trailer before i started cutting the wood. Def wouldnt have come out like that if i didnt already have the tools.


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## katoman

Nice, clean set up. Any attachment to Makita tools? :whistling


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## The Coastal Craftsman

HeartlandContr. said:


> do you use a panel and a breaker or two? is it all one circuit? the lights and all?


Lights plug into a socket behind the fan heater. So basicly one circuit of sockets. The other lights in the trailer on the ceiling are the 12v lights for when i need light and dont have power handy. No circuit breakers but i do have a overload protector.


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## HeartlandContr.

I'm sorry...probably sound like idiot....so the 12v lights are connected to a battery? how?

Also...how big is your trailer? I think it is exactly what I am looking for.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

HeartlandContr. said:


> I'm sorry...probably sound like idiot....so the 12v lights are connected to a battery? how?
> 
> Also...how big is your trailer? I think it is exactly what I am looking for.


The 12v equipment runs from my truck batteyr when my trailers plugged into my truck. I have very rarely had to use it but i also have spot lights on the rear of the trailer so that when im loading up at night i can light up the area around the trailer. 

It's a 14x7


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## katoman

BC - how do you like the 7x14 for towing? Right now I've got a 6x12 and like that it is the same width as my van.

But I'm thinking of moving up to the 7x14 for my next trailer, as I need to be able to carry more weight. Just not too sure about how it will tow.

Thanks.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

katoman said:


> BC - how do you like the 7x14 for towing? Right now I've got a 6x12 and like that it is the same width as my van.
> 
> But I'm thinking of moving up to the 7x14 for my next trailer, as I need to be able to carry more weight. Just not too sure about how it will tow.
> 
> Thanks.


I went from a 5x8 trailer to the 7x14 and to be honest it didnt take me more than a few days to get used to the difference. My truck is quite wide and the massive mirrors do help with towing. I wouldnt have thought you would have to worry to much going from a 6x12 to a 7x14. That little extra space will kake the world of difference. I looked at a 6x12 when i went to look at mine but the 7x14 felt a lot bigger inside.


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## LNG24

katoman said:


> BC - how do you like the 7x14 for towing? Right now I've got a 6x12 and like that it is the same width as my van.
> 
> But I'm thinking of moving up to the 7x14 for my next trailer, as I need to be able to carry more weight. Just not too sure about how it will tow.
> 
> Thanks.


I had a 2003 Yukon with a weight distribution hitch (I like to keep things level) and pulled a double axle 7x14. She towed like a dream! :thumbup: It easily fit into any double (pull through) space in a parking lot without blocking any isles. Easily fit 4x8 sheets right inside, in fact, I might have wheeled an entire HD cart or two right into the cargo hold, strapped her down and headed to the job site a time or two.  Of course I always returned my empties.:thumbup:

Make sure you get the high ceiling height. Can't begin to tell you how much I miss that rig!


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## TBFGhost

LNG24 said:


> I might have wheeled an entire HD cart or two right into the cargo hold, strapped her down and headed to the job site a time or two.  Of course I always returned my empties.:thumbup:
> 
> much I miss that rig!


 OMG that is freaking genius....:thumbsup:


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## Dave R

> OMG that is freaking genius....:thumbsup:


 
That IS genius. I wish my trailer had a ramp door now. That may be one of the best tips I've heard!:w00t::w00t:


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## Robie

> That IS genius. I wish my trailer had a ramp door now. That may be one of the best tips I've heard!


I guess it depends on how many times you think you've been screwed by a big box and how "even" you want to get.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

You dont goto my lowes do you lol. Would explain the reason for lack of carts. :thumbsup:


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## WarnerConstInc.

I bought a bigger trailer because I needed more room.
I then bought tools that take up less room.
I think I have some extra space, oh well.
I still have my 14' wells cargo, it is now a portable shed.:laughing:


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## Oz Enterprises

*Trailer woes*

Five years ago, when I bought my trailer, I had the idea to reduce weight by using upside down wire shelving and plastic bins tied down with bungees. The trouble is, if I happen to forget to secure the bungee cords, this is the result....Bins dumped out on the floor and sometimes hours of cleanup. I'm now 100% FED UP. So I started searching and found you guys. Thanks so much for your postings. I'll update you as I make my improvements using your ideas. Just about anything will be better than what I have!:furious:


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Oz Enterprises said:


> Five years ago, when I bought my trailer, I had the idea to reduce weight by using upside down wire shelving and plastic bins tied down with bungees. The trouble is, if I happen to forget to secure the bungee cords, this is the result....Bins dumped out on the floor and sometimes hours of cleanup. I'm now 100% FED UP. So I started searching and found you guys. Thanks so much for your postings. I'll update you as I make my improvements using your ideas. Just about anything will be better than what I have!:furious:


 


 you def need this thread :thumbsup:


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## Osito

Looks like my garage


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## Schmidt & Co

Wow dude.....  You found the right place!


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## davitk

:thumbup:

All my troubles seem so much smaller now...


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## KarlV

Oh my, thanks for the "tip"... I know what not to do! Best of luck in finding the best solution from here.


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## Oz Enterprises

*No doubt BC!!*

 you def need this thread :thumbsup:



HA HA HA!!! ...And how!! BC, yours is the best design to accommodate what I need. I plan to plagiarize you as much as possible. I love your simple locking drawers, and use of the Stanley boxes. I love those things. I need a work bench like yours also. I like "Robie"'s wall hung hardware cabinet as well. Did you insulate your walls when you wired?


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## The Coastal Craftsman

my trailer was already pre wired. I have no idea if there's even insulation behind the panels or not to be honest. I have no idea how much difference it would even make as most of the heat from the trailer comes through the roof and that not to easy to insulate. It's like touching a hot pan in the summer when you hold your hand to it.


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## Oz Enterprises

Your trailer was prewired for A/C? Is that 1X or 2X you used for the top rails of your cabinets? When I first started out, I was all concerned with weight and balance. Have you noticed any tire wear or handling issues with the majority of your load on the left side?


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Oz Enterprises said:


> Your trailer was prewired for A/C? Is that 1X or 2X you used for the top rails of your cabinets? When I first started out, I was all concerned with weight and balance. Have you noticed any tire wear or handling issues with the majority of your load on the left side?


 
Sorry i mean pre wired as in just electrical wireing for lights and sockets. I added some extra to suit my setup but the basics were already done. I used a combination of ply and 2x's on the frame. Not really noticed any issues with the load being mainly on the left side. it does have a very very slight lean to that side but not really noticable unless you really looking for it. Most of the weight is down low so handling is still great. I am starting to stack systainers down the right side to balance the load a little better. Tires are wearing very well. I guess i have another 3-4 years in them no problem.


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## festerized

I basically set up my trailer around my tools.
Being able to carry Plywood without it taking up the center of the trailer was a must. Same goes with the 8’ 6” metal brake.


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## Oz Enterprises

*Thanks again BC!*

... Most of the weight is down low so handling is still great. I am starting to stack *systainers* down the right side to balance the load a little better. Tires are wearing very well. I guess i have another 3-4 years in them no problem. 

You're doing better on tires than I am. So that eases my worries about load imbalance. I've replaced all 4 plus two just a month ago. Backing up in driveways with side pivots tears them up.

Systainers I've never heard of, so when I Googled it.... Well I told you I'm a Stanley box fan. The Systainers are Stanley on steroids! Thank you for that too. They're perfect! You and I must do all of the same work. That means pretty much everything. That's been the challenge. How does one carry all he needs to do any job on a moments notice. Tile saw, table saw, miter, BFG hammer drill, corded and cordless, accessories, hardware, paint gear, etc, etc. You've really done a great job at simplifying, and setting up so that if you need to change out any larger gear from storage to trailer you're adaptable. The systainer idea on top of that gives even more flexible and portable options. If there's an award somewhere for a do it all trailer set up, you'd be up there at the top. :thumbup:


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Oz Enterprises said:


> ... Most of the weight is down low so handling is still great. I am starting to stack *systainers* down the right side to balance the load a little better. Tires are wearing very well. I guess i have another 3-4 years in them no problem.
> 
> You're doing better on tires than I am. So that eases my worries about load imbalance. I've replaced all 4 plus two just a month ago. Backing up in driveways with side pivots tears them up.
> 
> Systainers I've never heard of, so when I Googled it.... Well I told you I'm a Stanley box fan. The Systainers are Stanley on steroids! Thank you for that too. They're perfect! You and I must do all of the same work. That means pretty much everything. That's been the challenge. How does one carry all he needs to do any job on a moments notice. Tile saw, table saw, miter, BFG hammer drill, corded and cordless, accessories, hardware, paint gear, etc, etc. You've really done a great job at simplifying, and setting up so that if you need to change out any larger gear from storage to trailer you're adaptable. The systainer idea on top of that gives even more flexible and portable options. If there's an award somewhere for a do it all trailer set up, you'd be up there at the top. :thumbup:


 
You cant beat having your trailer organized. Problem is you start doing it so well you find more room to put stuff so you buy more tools and more supplies. It's now getting hard to remember what i have in there and what i don't. I do a job and then after I'm finished goto the trailer and turn up a tool that i forgot i bought and would have made the job much easier. The only bad thing is now that the trailer is sorted to supply me for almost every occurrence, i cant even goto a small 2 hour job without it. Have to take the whole dam thing with me everywhere so that i know i will have everything i need to do the job and not leave to pick up stuff. 


yes systainers are great. I was going to change my Stanley boxes over but both have there place in my setup. The Stanley are great because you can stack them next to each other and get to stuff you rarely use quickly. The systainer are good but when stacking them and you need to get to the tool in the bottom box you have to remove and clip shut every other box on top of it. So now only certain things go into systainers.


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## Oz Enterprises

BCConstruction said:


> You cant beat having your trailer organized. Problem is you start doing it so well you find more room to put stuff so you buy more tools and more supplies. It's now getting hard to remember what i have in there and what i don't. I do a job and then after I'm finished goto the trailer and turn up a tool that i forgot i bought and would have made the job much easier. The only bad thing is now that the trailer is sorted to supply me for almost every occurrence, i cant even goto a small 2 hour job without it. Have to take the whole dam thing with me everywhere so that i know i will have everything i need to do the job and not leave to pick up stuff.
> 
> 
> yes systainers are great. I was going to change my Stanley boxes over but both have there place in my setup. The Stanley are great because you can stack them next to each other and get to stuff you rarely use quickly. The systainer are good but when stacking them and you need to get to the tool in the bottom box you have to remove and clip shut every other box on top of it. So now only certain things go into systainers.


I feel your pain!! I used to drop off the trailer and pick up a few tools and materials with just the truck. Now the trailer is fused to the hitch. I'm completely dependent now. And with the current mess I have, I'm hauling a nightmare of additional job time for tool digging wherever I go.

I think the systainers would be great for concrete tools. Trowels are a challenge to organize in a bin or the like because they tend to get locked together by their handles. Anything that's bulky like that. I would think even with the clip issue, that the handled compartments would allow us to grab and go....to throw a systainer and tool bucket in the truck without the trailer? I'm saying this never having seen them in person of course.


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## StayInTheCity

Dijohn5mt, I saw that in the picture of your trailer you put plywood on top of the frame under the roof, is that for snow load support?


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## CarrPainting

the crane on the back is actually there, for picking up a Jazzy 1122 power chair... this truck was my dads 'wheel chair van' for 7 years,,, complete with handicap license plates... 

now its used for work.


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## lthelec

*New systainers*

The new systainers look good

http://www.t-loc.de/Englisch/index.html


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## Greg Di

lthelec said:


> The new systainers look good
> 
> http://www.t-loc.de/Englisch/index.html


OMG. Warner is going to crap his pants when he sees this.

Scratch that, he's probably got 20 of them on preorder through a black market Danish tool smuggler operating out of Morocco.:laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc.

Greg Di said:


> OMG. Warner is going to crap his pants when he sees this.
> 
> Scratch that, he's probably got 20 of them on preorder through a black market Danish tool smuggler operating out of Morocco.:laughing:


I all ready have a couple.:whistling

I am able to get a few things early to try out. Going green has it's perks.:laughing:

You can also get the new one's from a few of the online Tanos dealers here in the US.

They are nice because I can get to one tool in the middle of the stack, without taking the one's off above it.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I all ready have a couple.:whistling
> 
> I am able to get a few things early to try out. Going green has it's perks.:laughing:
> 
> You can also get the new one's from a few of the online Tanos dealers here in the US.
> 
> They are nice because I can get to one tool in the middle of the stack, without taking the one's off above it.


I ain't paid much attention to these yet but how do you open the lid of the box your getting to if you don't remove the systainers that are on top of the box your trying to get to. I have seen some pics of them but I can't figure out how they function and what advantage they have over the normal ones.

You got any pics so I can understand how they work. It sure would be nice to be able to get to a tool at bottom or middle of pile without moving the ones on top.


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## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> I ain't paid much attention to these yet but how do you open the lid of the box your getting to if you don't remove the systainers that are on top of the box your trying to get to. I have seen some pics of them but I can't figure out how they function and what advantage they have over the normal ones.
> 
> You got any pics so I can understand how they work. It sure would be nice to be able to get to a tool at bottom or middle of pile without moving the ones on top.



Video:


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## The Coastal Craftsman

I will check that vid later Warner. Can't view it on stupid iPad.


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## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> I will check that vid later Warner. Can't view it on stupid iPad.



Does the link help?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIeE6UGKTpc


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## Greg Di

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They are nice because I can get to one tool in the middle of the stack, without taking the one's off above it.


It only took them how long to figure out that gem.

It's what pisses me off the most about them. No matter what's where, it's always in the wrong place!


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## WarnerConstInc.

Greg Di said:


> It only took them how long to figure out that gem.
> 
> It's what pisses me off the most about them. No matter what's where, it's always in the wrong place!


They took user input and put it to paper, plus they waited until the patent was up on the original one's before releasing the new one's.


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## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Does the link help?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIeE6UGKTpc


Yep that's was good. I can view them like that. I see what you mean now. You can tip the lip up even when a systainers is onto of the systainers you need to get to. They are sweet. They dot help me though as mine are stacked 5 deep at the moment. They going to use them over the current ones are run both side by side. Hope they dot discontinue the old ones.


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## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> Yep that's was good. I can view them like that. I see what you mean now. You can tip the lip up even when a systainers is onto of the systainers you need to get to. They are sweet. They dot help me though as mine are stacked 5 deep at the moment. They going to use them over the current ones are run both side by side. Hope they dot discontinue the old ones.


No plans to get rid of the "classic" style anytime soon. I think the Carvex will be the first tool that is shipped with the new T-Loc.

You can stack the T-loc's on top of the Classics with no issues, you just cant stack and lock a classic on top of a T-Loc.

They also set up a page on the website to print your own labels for the side pockets on the new T-Loc's.


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## lthelec

Here's my new set up. Really happy with it.


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## txgencon

I've posted pic before but I haven't seen anyone else use this concept. It's actually in my cutaway van but the concept would work in a trailer just as well.


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