# shingles will not peel apart



## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

We were cutting in a valley today on an addition we were doing. Didnt matter what we did we could not get these shingles to peel apart. Not sure what brand it was, the glue strip was in the middle of the shingle so im gonna guess GAF. Only 2 options we have around here really are GAF and OC. It was an architectural shingle, no matter what we did they just wanted to tear. Is there a trick for the newer style shingles to get them to peel apart? Never have had trouble before, it was even a cool morning and the shingles were still damp from a morning shower. Usually with that scenario they pop right apart and we could tooth them back in.


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## MJW (Jan 27, 2006)

Reroof if possible. Probably were OC if they tore and wouldn't pull apart. Popping them apaprt voids the warranty anyhow.

Try prying them apart when the get really warm, if you have no other options.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

Not sure what tools you were trying it with, but when a flat bar won't bust em' ..I grab a sharp 5 way, "painters tool" works great, :thumbsup:


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

CCCo. said:


> Not sure what tools you were trying it with, but when a flat bar won't bust em' ..I grab a sharp 5 way, "painters tool" works great, :thumbsup:



Yeah shingle warranty's are about worthless anyhow, if it voids the warranty what do they expect you to do to replace say a blow off area? Insurance rarely pays to replace a whole side when 3-4 shingles blew off or a tree branch damaged them. But that point aside will have to try the 5 and 1 on the front side when we redo the deck and add a roof over it, the flat bar def wasnt working at all.


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## Santa's Helpers (Jun 12, 2009)

It can be really slow but, try a heat gun. Warm them up and use a stiff putty knife.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

jkfox624 said:


> Didnt matter what we did we could not get these shingles to peel apart. Not sure what brand it was, the glue strip was in the middle of the shingle so im gonna guess GAF. Only 2 options we have around here really are GAF and OC. It was an architectural shingle, no matter what we did they just wanted to tear. Is there a trick for the newer style shingles to get them to peel apart?


I just did a Tamko Hertitage that had a Glue strip similar to the OC. They stuck to everything in site real easy -----too easy, it was a hassle. IMOP OC is the absolute worst shingle to work with in warm weather. They melt together instantly and these Heritage are a close second.

The only way I was able to work more efficently without scuffing up the material I was installing was to bring a hose on the roof to keep the temperture down on the shingle.


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## dougger222 (Jan 29, 2004)

I would try to peel than apart like MJW mentioned with direct sunlight when they warm up. Most tar on the shingles become more pliable when warm. Have done repairs in the past on Landmarks and had to do them on warm days with the sun right on them. Still they can be tough to work with! BTW, not wind repair or leaks but wrinkles in the ice and water shield.

Make sure to hand seal the new to old shingles or any shingle that you seperate from the bond.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

dougger222 said:


> I would try to peel than apart like MJW mentioned with direct sunlight when they warm up. Most tar on the shingles become more pliable when warm. Have done repairs in the past on Landmarks and had to do them on warm days with the sun right on them. Still they can be tough to work with! BTW, not wind repair or leaks but wrinkles in the ice and water shield.
> 
> Make sure to hand seal the new to old shingles or any shingle that you seperate from the bond.



It didnt matter hot or cold, it was warm enough yesterday afternoon that you couldnt touch the shingles. Dark green with small amount of black in it. If they didnt tear on the face the top of the shingle it was stuck to would rip, miserable PITA i must say. And yeah OC glue leaves me annoyed, anything above like 50 degrees with sun you set a shingle down and it insta sticks.


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## dougger222 (Jan 29, 2004)

They want to make them so they don't blow off but they can't be repaired as a result.

What does the ridge cap look like? In most cases you tell a lot about the shingles by the ridge. In most cases GAF Timberline is triple thick with a solid cheater tab. OC Oarkridge or Duration while also three layers thick has a half cheater tab. Certainteed in most cases one layer thick.

Seen some roofs were they put on a non Certainteed shingle but put down Certainteed Accessory ridge cap.


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

dougger222 said:


> They want to make them so they don't blow off but they can't be repaired as a result.
> 
> What does the ridge cap look like? In most cases you tell a lot about the shingles by the ridge. In most cases GAF Timberline is triple thick with a solid cheater tab. OC Oarkridge or Duration while also three layers thick has a half cheater tab. Certainteed in most cases one layer thick.
> 
> Seen some roofs were they put on a non Certainteed shingle but put down Certainteed Accessory ridge cap.



They just used a 3 tab of the same color for cap.


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## buildpinnacle (Sep 2, 2008)

jkfox624 said:


> Yeah shingle warranty's are about worthless anyhow, if it voids the warranty what do they expect you to do to replace say a blow off area? Insurance rarely pays to replace a whole side when 3-4 shingles blew off or a tree branch damaged them. l.


FYI, it is not the insurance companies responsibility to offer or continue a warranty on a roof. The policy is very clear about that. The are not in the warranty business, so they don't care.


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

jkfox624 said:


> We were cutting in a valley today on an addition we were doing. Didnt matter what we did we could not get these shingles to peel apart. Not sure what brand it was, the glue strip was in the middle of the shingle so im gonna guess GAF. Only 2 options we have around here really are GAF and OC. It was an architectural shingle, no matter what we did they just wanted to tear. Is there a trick for the newer style shingles to get them to peel apart? Never have had trouble before, it was even a cool morning and the shingles were still damp from a morning shower. Usually with that scenario they pop right apart and we could tooth them back in.


Cold water from a hose or a cooler poured on the shingles will cool them and make them contract (helping them pull away from each other).

Next step (as suggested), flat bar.
A molding bar would be ideal to help pry them apart as well.
It has a wider and thinner profile making it easier to wedge them apart.
Other than that, you're going to have to re-roof that side 
(which really is the best choice as your new work won't be affected by the old roof).


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## AaronB. (Oct 6, 2004)

Water is what I was about to recommend as well.

Sometimes, especially with O.C. shingles, the tar strip comes up with the shingles. For this I apply a thin bead of polyurethane caulk in the void on the adjacent shingles in order to both re-seal them down and waterproof the removed tar strip.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

i find they pop off easier when it's cold out. the hotter it is, the harder. I assume you are trying to take a few rows away from the valley to frame a roof of the addition?

my roofer hates the 30 year timberlines metrics now that they have the tar strip at the bottom. he says if it's hot, it's sticking to the paper before you get a chance to even run the next staggered row to the peak. or if you step around a chimney to keep going, they stick fast with that bottom tar row. i bet they won't blow off as easy though.


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

AaronB. said:


> Water is what I was about to recommend as well.


That's because great minds (almost) always think alike!


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