# find this miter and bevel angle



## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

sounds like a game show...
i can't help but wonder if there is an actual formua to figure out how to cut larger millwork on funny angles... ok so here is the problem... we are to install this 10" log looking siding on this house. material measures 1 1/2" at center of profile and tapers down to 3/8" on top and 3/4" on bottom with a 3/8" ship lap on the back. client wants mitered outside corners... no problem. client wants to add some stone veneer on foundation that will stick out about 2 to 2 1/2 inches past sheeting, can i make a "skirt" on the bottom coarse to eliminate the stone sill... sure, no problem. we riped some 2x4 on a 15 degree angle and screwed it in and added suport where the top will hit. time to install... oh crap... i can't stand the material up on my saw with a 15 degree block behind it!! time to play my favorite game of *GUESS THAT ANGLE*! :thumbup: well although some were close, and my inside copes needed re-coping and re-coping, i don't think we did the best we could do... we lost alot of time messing around with angles. so i ask... how do i calculate correct bevel and miter angles to cut pieces laying flat? if i do another one and it's 10 degrees or 5 degrees or 14 degrees but it was supposed to be 15 :whistling 
any advice is greatly appreciated


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## MBS (Mar 20, 2008)

world llc said:


> sounds like a game show...
> i can't help but wonder if there is an actual formua to figure out how to cut larger millwork on funny angles... ok so here is the problem... we are to install this 10" log looking siding on this house. material measures 1 1/2" at center of profile and tapers down to 3/8" on top and 3/4" on bottom with a 3/8" ship lap on the back. client wants mitered outside corners... no problem. client wants to add some stone veneer on foundation that will stick out about 2 to 2 1/2 inches past sheeting, can i make a "skirt" on the bottom coarse to eliminate the stone sill... sure, no problem. we riped some 2x4 on a 15 degree angle and screwed it in and added suport where the top will hit. time to install... oh crap... i can't stand the material up on my saw with a 15 degree block behind it!! time to play my favorite game of *GUESS THAT ANGLE*! :thumbup: well although some were close, and my inside copes needed re-coping and re-coping, i don't think we did the best we could do... we lost alot of time messing around with angles. so i ask... how do i calculate correct bevel and miter angles to cut pieces laying flat? if i do another one and it's 10 degrees or 5 degrees or 14 degrees but it was supposed to be 15 :whistling
> any advice is greatly appreciated


Try this:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=2
Go to bottom of page for chart.


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## MBS (Mar 20, 2008)

MBS said:


> Try this:
> http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=2
> Go to bottom of page for chart.


Sorry, that chart will probably not work.


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## KennMacMoragh (Sep 16, 2008)

I kind of lost the picture in my head when you said "can i make a "skirt" on the bottom coarse to eliminate the stone sill... sure, no problem. we riped some 2x4 on a 15 degree angle and screwed it in and added suport where the top will hit."


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## Jim Allen (Dec 8, 2008)

I would approach this like I do crown molding on my compound miter saw. I am sure there is a mathematical equation to this but even that would only work if you know for sure that the corner is square and the siding line is running absolutely level. So for me I take two scrap pieces maybe 3 feet long or so cut the opposing angles, ( I would probably start at 30 angle and 15 bevel) be sure to mark both pieces so you don't forget if your saw gets changed while your away. Check it and adjust accordingly each time marking your practice pieces until you get the right fit.


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## orson (Nov 23, 2007)

Consider buying one of these:

http://bosch.cpotools.com/other_tools_and_equipment/digital_protractors/daf220k.html

Set the angle of the joint, set the spring angle, and voila! gives you the bevel and mitre.


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## Jim Allen (Dec 8, 2008)

I was thinking this morning how we could make this even more challenging, we could always throw the corners out of plum in both directions and lets add and arch to the top of the wall, now that takes on a different meaning to the word challenge. I think it would be fun though.:no:


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

Jim Allen said:


> I was thinking this morning how we could make this even more challenging, we could always throw the corners out of plum in both directions and lets add and arch to the top of the wall, now that takes on a different meaning to the word challenge. I think it would be fun though.:no:


why don't we just make a 3 dimensional 16 point star out of crown molding... just to keep it interesting:jester:


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## reveivl (May 29, 2005)

world llc said:


> why don't we just make a 3 dimensional 16 point star out of crown molding... just to keep it interesting:jester:


That's for rookies, make it a 17 point star.:jester:


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## DrewD (Jun 10, 2007)

Just don't mention false corners to the HO. They can be a nightmare to make.


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## skymaster (Oct 23, 2006)

Jim Allen: MY plane is bigger and better than yours ROFLMAO


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## Jim Allen (Dec 8, 2008)

*Plane*

Yes it is!, how about this one--->












or this one---->






:thumbup:


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