# Pergo patch in middle of large floor, treat it like a hardwood patch?



## Big Hammer B (Nov 11, 2011)

Pergo patch in middle of large floor, treat it like a hardwood patch?


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Is there a question here somewhere, or do you plan on letting us all in on the conversation? Nice first post btw.


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## Big Hammer B (Nov 11, 2011)

Yeah thanks, its a question. I really did not want to take up all one side of floor just to get to a damaged plank. I could rip bottom edge off and set grooves in glue. Just not sure on this one.


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

The, only pergo that I have repaired was the original pergo that required glue on tongue and groove,, I'm talking about 1990's stuff ,,, after, that any click system laminate , even if glued back it would be hard for that, type of flooring to hold without one edge missing.. 

unless its the glue and strap type of installation laminate I would take it apart to the closest wall.


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## doncando (Mar 27, 2010)

Pergo is a floating floor system. It expands/contracts with changes in humididty. You* can not *replace a piece in the middle. You have to remove to the nearest wall and re-install.


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## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

Best way.....from the nearest wall and pull it all up until you get to the damaged area. 

Another way, if there's enough room between the edges and walls is something like this http://www.tools4flooring.com/crain-566-floor-vise-p-337.html 
Cut out the bad planks and the rest of that horizontal row(s), separate the sections enough to lay new planks in and pull the sections back together. It does actually work, I've done it in a hallway so the sections weren't very wide. I wouldn't even try it in a big area but supposedly it works there also.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

doncando said:


> Pergo is a floating floor system. It expands/contracts with changes in humididty. You* can not *replace a piece in the middle. You have to remove to the nearest wall and re-install.


*WRONG.* Stick to what you know - this ain't it. I have been to more Pergo training seminars than I care to remember. A plank replacement can be done in less than 20 minutes. 

You are correct OP in that you can rip the bottom of the groove off to allow the plank to drop in place. I use simple Tite-Bond for a joint adhesive. I have a neat little way of making clamps out of scrap wood, drywall screws, and hot glue that keeps the replacement plank and it's adjacent planks edges on plane until the adhesive sets. It is not required in every situation, depends on the floor.


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## Macsurfer83 (Mar 24, 2011)

PrecisionFloors said:


> *WRONG.* Stick to what you know - this ain't it. I have been to more Pergo training seminars than I care to remember. A plank replacement can be done in less than 20 minutes.
> 
> You are correct OP in that you can rip the bottom of the groove off to allow the plank to drop in place. I use simple Tite-Bond for a joint adhesive. I have a neat little way of making clamps out of scrap wood, drywall screws, and hot glue that keeps the replacement plank and it's adjacent planks edges on plane until the adhesive sets. It is not required in every situation, depends on the floor.



I agree 100%!!!


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## doncando (Mar 27, 2010)

PrecisionFloors said:


> *WRONG.* Stick to what you know - this ain't it. I have been to more Pergo training seminars than I care to remember. A plank replacement can be done in less than 20 minutes.
> 
> You are correct OP in that you can rip the bottom of the groove off to allow the plank to drop in place. I use simple Tite-Bond for a joint adhesive. I have a neat little way of making clamps out of scrap wood, drywall screws, and hot glue that keeps the replacement plank and it's adjacent planks edges on plane until the adhesive sets. It is not required in every situation, depends on the floor.



OK. Thanks for the information. All I have to do now is know what I don't know and I won't make that mistake again.


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

the professional way to do a plank replacement .. pergo, armstrong . unilin, any of these brands or any brand there is only one way to do a repleacement on hardwood or laminate .. THIS IS IT .! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Not worth to invest just one piece but, THERE IS AN APP FOR THAT!
Bulldog video:


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

that is a cool tool sam.. i like :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

astor said:


> Not worth to invest just one piece but, THERE IS AN APP FOR THAT!
> Bulldog video:


Thats thing is nice. Never seen that before.


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## Splinter hands (Aug 31, 2011)

PrecisionFloors said:


> *WRONG.* Stick to what you know - this ain't it. I have been to more Pergo training seminars than I care to remember. A plank replacement can be done in less than 20 minutes.
> 
> You are correct OP in that you can rip the bottom of the groove off to allow the plank to drop in place. I use simple Tite-Bond for a joint adhesive. I have a neat little way of making clamps out of scrap wood, drywall screws, and hot glue that keeps the replacement plank and it's adjacent planks edges on plane until the adhesive sets. It is not required in every situation, depends on the floor.


Thanks PF didn't know you could replace a piece like that. I have always removed and replaced. You would just glue the new piece TO the existing then right? No glue on the floor itself, am I correct?


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## Splinter hands (Aug 31, 2011)

astor said:


> Not worth to invest just one piece but, THERE IS AN APP FOR THAT!
> Bulldog video:


I think this would be the way to go, nice tool if it works like they say.


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## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

I could see that coming in handy for a few situations for the initial install as well. Would like to track one of those down, find out how much it costs.


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## hos (Nov 5, 2011)

PrecisionFloors said:


> *WRONG.* Stick to what you know - this ain't it. I have been to more Pergo training seminars than I care to remember. A plank replacement can be done in less than 20 minutes.
> 
> You are correct OP in that you can rip the bottom of the groove off to allow the plank to drop in place. I use simple Tite-Bond for a joint adhesive. I have a neat little way of making clamps out of scrap wood, drywall screws, and hot glue that keeps the replacement plank and it's adjacent planks edges on plane until the adhesive sets. It is not required in every situation, depends on the floor.


Yeah Tite-Bond does seem to work well with this


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## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

dsconstructs said:


> I could see that coming in handy for a few situations for the initial install as well. Would like to track one of those down, find out how much it costs.


http://www.torlys.com/installation/bulldog


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## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks Dennis. I didn't see the "find stores" on that page earlier. Appears I'll be visiting one of the local carpet stores here and see how much they want to order one. :whistling


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## Macsurfer83 (Mar 24, 2011)

*Re: Torlys Bulldog*

So I've fallen for this tool by far and cannot wait to get my hands on one!!! :thumbup: I do have few questions, One does the board replacement that was demonstrated always go as smooth? Does the furniture need to be moved? I did notice the carpet display but he didn't really work the floor in that direction. Also the web site says-

One Tool - Many Uses
Replace flooring planks in center of a room, without cutting.
Close open floor joint gaps.
Install end pieces cut on an angle.
Fix sub-floor hollow spots.
Easier access to underlayment.
Easily check floor perimeter expansion gaps.


My question is what is a sub-floor hollow spot? I almost feel ignorant in asking this one as I feel I should already know but I don't and would like to know. My guess would be rotten subfloor but seems to me that if that was the case the laminate would be damaged as well?


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