# caulking above baseboard



## cynthiann (Feb 12, 2006)

Any tricks to caulking above baseboard? I've seen it shrink and leave a groove, and hate when it ends up on the wall and I have to touch up.


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

The way i caulked above baseboard was run the caulk then i went over it with a damp washrag and it looked perfect. But then i can't caulk worth a crap. Some people can I CAN'T.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

cynthiann said:


> Any tricks to caulking above baseboard? I've seen it shrink and leave a groove, and hate when it ends up on the wall and I have to touch up.


Let the wood acclimate (and shrink) more before 'installation', - - or at least before 'painting', - - use a more 'flexible' caulk, - - and 'blue tape' 1/16" to 1/8" above your 'baseboard-line' before caulking, - - then 'wet-finger' caulk, remove tape, and 'wet-finger' caulk again. :thumbsup:


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

Also, if the gap is wide enough that you are getting shrinkage, you may want to use 2-3 applications.


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## AAPaint (Apr 18, 2005)

All good suggestions....I'll add one more that helps. Get a caulk with some body to it. I find the runnier the caulk the more it shrinks, sags and cracks. I always use SW 1100A 55 year siliconized latex caulk. Cracking is also caused by not allowing the caulk to dry properly before paint because the two products dry at different rates.


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## painterofeveryt (Apr 8, 2005)

*question*

Let the wood acclimate (and shrink) more before 'installation', - - or at least before 'painting', - - use a more 'flexible' caulk, - - and 'blue tape' 1/16" to 1/8" ..................why use blue tape ?


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

painterofeveryt said:


> Let the wood acclimate (and shrink) more before 'installation', - - or at least before 'painting', - - use a more 'flexible' caulk, - - and 'blue tape' 1/16" to 1/8" ..................why use blue tape ?


Just a method for those who may not be as 'experienced' in caulking, - - not saying who is or isn't, - - I can't really tell from here.

The blue tape will keep the wall clean from 'too much (accidental) caulk' SPREADING. 

Sounded from her question like she's having a problem with the caulk 'overshooting' it's intended area, - - and 'carrying' onto more of the painted area than desired. :thumbsup:


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## painterofeveryt (Apr 8, 2005)

ok, makes sense now that I understand where you wanted the tape,I thought you wanted it on the base...oops ! Thanks !


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## CarlW (Feb 2, 2006)

I would say that if somebody has to use blue tape to caulk, they should just work on correcting their caulk overshooting problem instead. When you have a 2500 square foot house filled with base to caulk or something, that's a lot of tape and that stuff ain't cheap! What I do is cut a hole in the caulk tube that is the smallest hole possible...if you poke it with that pokey thing on the caulk gun, that hole is too big. Anyway, these days caulk doesn't really need to be poked or pierced...it comes out on its own with no problems. Too much water applied with the caulk may be a reason the caulk ends up looking concave going into the gap instead of bridging the gap. This is why a moist finger is best instead of using a sopping wet sponge or rag...you don't want to fill a gap with caulk and then wipe it all away.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

CarlW said:


> I would say that if somebody has to use blue tape to caulk, they should just work on correcting their caulk overshooting problem instead. When you have a 2500 square foot house filled with base to caulk or something, that's a lot of tape and that stuff ain't cheap! What I do is cut a hole in the caulk tube that is the smallest hole possible...if you poke it with that pokey thing on the caulk gun, that hole is too big. Anyway, these days caulk doesn't really need to be poked or pierced...it comes out on its own with no problems. Too much water applied with the caulk may be a reason the caulk ends up looking concave going into the gap instead of bridging the gap. This is why a moist finger is best instead of using a sopping wet sponge or rag...you don't want to fill a gap with caulk and then wipe it all away.


No argument there, Carl. :thumbsup:


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## Guardi Pro (Mar 15, 2006)

TOP GUN 2000 :thumbsup:


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

Guardi Pro said:


> TOP GUN 2000 :thumbsup:


Radio-controlled aircraft?
Tom Cruise movie re-make?


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

slickshift said:


> Radio-controlled aircraft?
> Tom Cruise movie re-make?


Not sure about the flick, but I use/highly endorse Top Gun 200 caulk.
Distributed around here by Porter Paints, i assume its made by Pittsburgh/PPG Indus.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

ProWallGuy said:


> ...I use/highly endorse Top Gun 200 caulk.
> Distributed around here by Porter Paints, i assume its made by Pittsburgh/PPG Indus.


Two Hundred?
Hmmm....no Porter paints here
Though the Mid-Cape Home Centers has Pittsburg (I haven't had the need for it up here, but I love their Speed-Hide Primer Sealer for new drywall )
I'll check it out for "Top Gun 200"
Thanks GP and PWG


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## Pearce Services (Nov 21, 2005)

I agree that the brand makes a big difference, I have found that the cheap "DAP" is too watery. I use Phenoseal, it is much thicker than most


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## firemike (Dec 11, 2005)

I also like thicker caulk, it is easier to work with and doesn't shrink as much when it drys. I generally use PolySeamSeal. I hate Dap and the other "runny" caulks, they make more of a mess.


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## colin (Dec 1, 2005)

*Caulk Smoother*

The Caulkrite tool is good for a nice clean caulk line. Can't get it in the UK at the moment, the one I've got has nearly had its day


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## Guardi Pro (Mar 15, 2006)

1 to many 0's... Top Gun 200, and Pro wall you are correct it's by PPG. Thanks for the correction:thumbup:


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## mc_ci (Apr 1, 2006)

Just throwing this out there but Howmany of you caulk and putty your own trim when working for a GC. I under stand for a H/O but when I sub just the trim for a project I dont include caulk or putty. I would say that better that half of the trimmers in my area are the same way.


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## camaroman2125 (Apr 13, 2006)

mc_ci said:


> Just throwing this out there but Howmany of you caulk and putty your own trim when working for a GC. I under stand for a H/O but when I sub just the trim for a project I dont include caulk or putty. I would say that better that half of the trimmers in my area are the same way.


After I blow out a house My dad will come in and do the finish (Dad was a finish carpenter for 25 years then went into Building). After he gets all the trim in I come behind him and fill all the holes. No caulk cause he uses a stain package.


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

mc_ci said:


> Just throwing this out there but Howmany of you caulk and putty your own trim when working for a GC. I under stand for a H/O but when I sub just the trim for a project I dont include caulk or putty. I would say that better that half of the trimmers in my area are the same way.


Of all the carps I've had the pleasure of following, only maybe 10% of them filled their own nail holes, or caulked the gaps. Out of that 10%, I wish 90% of them hadn't touched it. I'd much rather finish the wood myself, than sand out bad fill. 
It's worse now that most use nail guns. Some of the trim I see looks like it was sprayed with a machine gun. Back in the days of swinging a hammer, much more care was put into how many nails were sunk, and where they sunk them.


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## slickshift (Jun 14, 2005)

ProWallGuy said:


> Of all the carps I've had the pleasure of following, only maybe 10% of them filled their own nail holes, or caulked the gaps. Out of that 10%, I wish 90% of them hadn't touched it.


That sounds just about dead-on from my end too


ProWallGuy said:


> I'd much rather finish the wood myself, than sand out bad fill.


That's it
No matter how you slice it, it's less time to do it right than sand out a bad job


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