# SketchUp - deck guys



## SelectDecks

Quick question for those of you using SketchUp for decks - we've used it for some remodels and I've got a pretty good feel for it

For those of you using it for decks...do you make components for 2x10, 2x8, 2x6, or any other of the commmon materials? That way instead of drawing/copying one you can just simply pull it from the component list

Also, last time I checked SketchUp it did not have a composite/vinyl/ipe component - only thing I saw last time I used it was treated - anyone found a component for materials other than treated lumber?

thanks

James
www.renovatorswv.com


----------



## ohiohomedoctor

Good questions.


----------



## SelectDecks

ohiohomedoctor said:


> Good questions. A very grumpy guy will be by in a minute or so with his advice.


Can't wait.


----------



## Willie T

Quote:
Originally Posted by *ohiohomedoctor*
_Good questions. A very grumpy guy will be by in a minute or so with his advice._

Official comment: "This is not advice." 

I'm just hangin' around to see who comes along to offer some.
But you might try here:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-grain-textures/
or here: http://sketchupland.posterous.com/great-texture-websites-for-sketchup-and-photo


----------



## ohiohomedoctor

Willie T said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by ohiohomedoctorhttp://www.contractortalk.com/f116/sketchup-deck-guys-108887/#post1349567
> Good questions. A very grumpy guy will be by in a minute or so with his advice.
> 
> Official comment: "This is not advice."
> 
> I'm just hangin' around to see who comes along to offer some.
> But you might try here: http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-grain-textures/


:sad:


----------



## SelectDecks

Willie T said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ohiohomedoctor*
> _Good questions. A very grumpy guy will be by in a minute or so with his advice._
> 
> Official comment: "This is not advice."
> 
> I'm just hangin' around to see who comes along to offer some.
> But you might try here: http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-grain-textures/


That site is definitely cool - I'm guessing if I just Google around for composite deck components for SU I'll find what I'm looking for

thank ya


----------



## Willie T

Probably "SketchUp TEXTURES" will return a lot of hits.


----------



## SelectDecks

Willie T said:


> Probably "SketchUp TEXTURES" will return a lot of hits.


yep probably right also - I'll mess around and post back here what I find because I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering this

Just don't see the point in buying TrexDecks or something along those lines when I can do the same thing for free

thanks again


----------



## RobertCDF

Let me ask a quick question... Do you really think that when a client is looking at the following image he is thinking in his mind "What size framing material is it and what does it look like?"


----------



## SelectDecks

RobertCDF said:


> Let me ask a quick question... Do you really think that when a client is looking at the following image he is thinking in his mind "What size framing material is it and what does it look like?"


Fair enough - did you just simply color your deck boards like that or is that a component

Nice sketch by the way


----------



## Willie T

Your post made me think of this.

Are you aware that you can take almost any wood-grain that is a standard default in SU and edit it to look very different than the original? The "edit" tab and color wheel, along with tone, are right there in the paint bucket box.


----------



## RobertCDF

I make my textures from JPG images from the manufactures websites, follow it up with visiting a finished project or large samples to verify the color and sell the project. 

Components are your friend for sure, I even draw my blueprints in sketchup, (not layout) I have a component of joists @ 12" O.C. and 16" O.C. 50'x100' I just import it onto my outline of the deck, explode it and delete the unneeded lines. I have the basic layout in less than a minute, draw in the beams, piers, and notes and it's done.


----------



## SelectDecks

Willie T said:


> Your post made me think of this.
> 
> Are you aware that you can take almost any wood-grain that is a standard default in SU and edit it to look very different than the original? The "edit" tab and color wheel, along with tone, are right there in the paint bucket box.


yep sure am - I'm working on one right now I'll post when finished and see what everyone thinks

Where I'm from I'm yet to see anyone using SketchUp and it blows my mind - every job we bid we include some sort of rendering and it pretty much seals the deal everytime

take it easy


----------



## SelectDecks

RobertCDF said:


> I make my textures from JPG images from the manufactures websites, follow it up with visiting a finished project or large samples to verify the color and sell the project.
> 
> Components are your friend for sure, I even draw my blueprints in sketchup, (not layout) I have a component of joists @ 12" O.C. and 16" O.C. 50'x100' I just import it onto my outline of the deck, explode it and delete the unneeded lines. I have the basic layout in less than a minute, draw in the beams, piers, and notes and it's done.


Read my mind man - I've been drawing a single joist then copying it for each joist I need which seems like an absolute waste of time

thanks again


----------



## RobertCDF

I could waste hours (maybe days) of your life when it comes to sketchup, I love it. 

Remember to not waste your time drawing pointless things, does the client count the treads in the drawing? I doubt it... I have stair components that are 3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17 risers, instead of wasting time making in multiples of 1.

Take some time and draw out your components, stairs, rail posts, rail sections, benches, planters, etc. Save these in directories and import as needed. 

When you start your drawing start with the house and draw the back wall and then make it a component. Draw your deck and make it a component, import stairs, rails, planters, etc. Done, go sell it!!


----------



## SelectDecks

RobertCDF said:


> I could waste hours (maybe days) of your life when it comes to sketchup, I love it.
> 
> Remember to not waste your time drawing pointless things, does the client count the treads in the drawing? I doubt it... I have stair components that are 3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17 risers, instead of wasting time making in multiples of 1.
> 
> Take some time and draw out your components, stairs, rail posts, rail sections, benches, planters, etc. Save these in directories and import as needed.
> 
> When you start your drawing start with the house and draw the back wall and then make it a component. Draw your deck and make it a component, import stairs, rails, planters, etc. Done, go sell it!!


Exactly what I was looking for when I posted the question, thank ya


----------



## greg24k

RenovatorsWV said:


> Quick question for those of you using SketchUp for decks - we've used it for some remodels and I've got a pretty good feel for it
> 
> For those of you using it for decks...do you make components for 2x10, 2x8, 2x6, or any other of the commmon materials? That way instead of drawing/copying one you can just simply pull it from the component list
> 
> Also, last time I checked SketchUp it did not have a composite/vinyl/ipe component - only thing I saw last time I used it was treated - anyone found a component for materials other than treated lumber?
> 
> thanks
> 
> James
> www.renovatorswv.com


Ledger, post, girder you can make as a component... joist, railings, etc I would make it as a group; this way when you need to make adjustments,i.e resizing,etc it will not effect the whole drawing, same goes for framing.


----------



## wbr

RenovatorsWV said:


> Read my mind man - I've been drawing a single joist then copying it for each joist I need which seems like an absolute waste of time
> 
> thanks again


Lets say you need 20 joists @ 16 o.c.to fill in an area.
After placing the first one @ 15 1/4 Copy that one and move it enough to make sure its on the right line then type in 16 and enter,
You'll see your copied joist at the 16" mark.
Next type "x" and "20"(no space) then hit "enter" and you'll get 20 copies at 16" intervals.
In a hurry you can overestimate how many joists you need then just erase the extras.


----------



## Willie T

greg24k said:


> Ledger, post, girder you can make as a component... joist, railings, etc I would make it as a group; this way when you need to make adjustments,i.e resizing,etc it will not effect the whole drawing, same goes for framing.


It is not necessary to limit changable parts to GROUPS. Any COMPONENT in the model can be altered and changed without affecting the other similar COMPONENTS in the model. Use the MAKE UNIQUE option.


----------



## SelectDecks

wbr said:


> Lets say you need 20 joists @ 16 o.c.to fill in an area.
> After placing the first one @ 15 1/4 Copy that one and move it enough to make sure its on the right line then type in 16 and enter,
> You'll see your copied joist at the 16" mark.
> Next type "x" and "20"(no space) then hit "enter" and you'll get 20 copies at 16" intervals.
> In a hurry you can overestimate how many joists you need then just erase the extras.


Excellent, didn't know you could make 20 copies, I've been doing it 1 by 1, thanks for the help

Let me ask ya this, is there a way to make all the 16" marks on a ledger when you stretch the tape across it? Typically I would set the
1st joist then measure over 15 1/4 and copy the 1st joist to that mark and on and on. If I was able to mark where I wanted every joist at one time (when I have the tape measure feature out) it would be so much quicker than having to get the tool out for every joist...make sense?

thanks again


----------



## greg24k

Willie T said:


> It is not necessary to limit changable parts to GROUPS. Any COMPONENT in the model can be altered and changed without affecting the other similar COMPONENTS in the model. Use the MAKE UNIQUE option.


You can, but this is just an extra step...


----------



## wbr

RenovatorsWV said:


> Excellent, didn't know you could make 20 copies, I've been doing it 1 by 1, thanks for the help
> 
> Let me ask ya this, is there a way to make all the 16" marks on a ledger when you stretch the tape across it? Typically I would set the
> 1st joist then measure over 15 1/4 and copy the 1st joist to that mark and on and on. If I was able to mark where I wanted every joist at one time (when I have the tape measure feature out) it would be so much quicker than having to get the tool out for every joist...make sense?
> 
> thanks again


Not sure,I'm new to Sketchup myself.
Instead of putting marks on a ledger you could use guide lines and make multiples the same way.
Use the select tool to highlight the guide line then the move tool Ctrl.
you can type the number of multiples before the x or after,doesn't matter.(20x or x20) for 20 multiples.

If you do it how I explained before there's no reason to use the measuring tool.
When you move something the length you move it shows up in the length box (lower right corner)
Just type the length you want to move it and it will show up in that box.
Hit enter and it moves.
Do it like I explained in the other post and all your joist will show up 16" on center.


----------



## Willie T

greg24k said:


> You can, but this is just an extra step...


Not really, because (unless there's something I don't know about) a GROUP is only good for the current model. Since a GROUP is not "named", it cannot be saved or retreived for another model as a COMPONENT can be.

So you would have to redraw a new GROUP every time you started a new model. Very time consuming.

If I'm wrong on this, I hope someone helps me out to learn how to use GROUPS differently


----------



## Willie T

For stairs, don't you guys use one of the many "stair builder" ruby scripts out there?


----------



## greg24k

Willie T said:


> Not really, because (unless there's something I don't know about) a GROUP is only good for the current model. Since a GROUP is not "named", it cannot be saved or retreived for another model as a COMPONENT can be.
> 
> So you would have to redraw a new GROUP every time you started a new model. Very time consuming.
> 
> If I'm wrong on this, I hope someone helps me out to learn how to use GROUPS differently


No Willie, you're right... If you want to save it, then you have to make a component...or if you want to use push and pull tool to 20 spindles that the same size, component would be the way to go... and I still do that, but I found that using a group for certain items is better and faster... For example is I am framing a floor with walls and roof, I can use one 2x to make walls, rafters, plywood, plates etc just using copy and paste and move tools; lets say placing studs 15 1/4" then, x12 command and you got all your studs,etc. now you pick any stud and turn it with a protractor and do your window sills and headers using the same stud, then make a plywood out of it and so forth. 

Try it, I think you will get an idea what I mean.


----------



## RobertCDF

Willie T said:


> For stairs, don't you guys use one of the many "stair builder" ruby scripts out there?


I drew my stairs years ago when I first started using SU and saved them as components, it takes 10 sec to import a set.


----------



## Greg Di

Layout is a very useful tool as well. I went through almost every single CAD program out there before I realized what Layout did and how well it did it.

My problem with CAD is that I am really fast in Sketchup and think like Sketchup at this point so when I realized that Layout was how you applied scale and views, it was "heavenly".

I do all my plans in SUP/Layout now.


----------



## Cole

Amen, Greg. 

Here is an example of what Layout can do:

































































With layout, I can quickly put together a design proposal and then start a new file for construction documents and everything is not only professional looking but easy to understand etc.

I have many more examples and if some people like to see them, let me know.


----------



## Willie T

Am I right here? Basically all LAYOUT does is give you a PAPER SPACE like AutoCad does?


----------



## Greg Di

I do everything in 2D SUP and then import into Layout to dimension. Most recurring construction details I have drawn, saved as a template in Layout so all I'm doing uniquely for each job is the plan view most times. If I need to show a whacky detail, I draw it and save it in case I need it down the road but most deck projects are eerily similar in the details.


----------



## Greg Di

Willie T said:


> Am I right here? Basically all LAYOUT does is give you a PAPER SPACE like AutoCad does?


Yes...Exactly.

The benefit is that SUP is a lot more intuitive to use (for me) and I like the fact that the interface is more design oriented than CAD oriented.


----------



## RobertCDF

I did this video last night of a quick drawing just to show how I do it, it might be helpful to some or maybe not. The audio is not quite in sync with the video but you can tell what I'm doing, the cursor also does not change to the selected tool (must have been the recording software). 

There are a lot of little shortcuts that can be used with sketchup that I did not learn till I had a good system (like keyboard shortcuts to tools) so I have issues trying to do it differently.

I used some free software called "CamStudio" nice little program.

http://youtu.be/4lroayhbRPc


----------



## aureliconstruct

Have you ever used Solid Works. I like it a lot better.


----------



## SelectDecks

RobertCDF said:


> I did this video last night of a quick drawing just to show how I do it, it might be helpful to some or maybe not. The audio is not quite in sync with the video but you can tell what I'm doing, the cursor also does not change to the selected tool (must have been the recording software).
> 
> There are a lot of little shortcuts that can be used with sketchup that I did not learn till I had a good system (like keyboard shortcuts to tools) so I have issues trying to do it differently.
> 
> I used some free software called "CamStudio" nice little program.
> 
> http://youtu.be/4lroayhbRPc


How do you get the dimensions to appear? For example your 7' 1/4" measurements


----------



## JustaFramer

Dimensions in sketch-up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKLc3hb9Crk


----------



## SelectDecks

JustaFramer said:


> Dimensions in sketch-up
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKLc3hb9Crk


excellent, thank ya


----------



## blackdoghamma

Old post, but after seeing posts on Chief Architect and REvit, I thought I'd revive this.

I find SketchUp so incredibly useful both as architect and as carpenter. It alllows creation of actual scenarios for both sales/illustration and also for jsut working out how the heck to do something. there are many, many situations where I'm trying to figure out how to frame something, how to attach something, etc, etc, etc...that SketchUp is just so perfect for. And it's FREE! If you want to import CAD and export to cad you'll need a paid version but for many of us that's not needed. And getting something, even something very complex, modeled accurately, is WAAAAAAY faster than Revit or any other software. Look at some of the into videos on YouTube.

GROUP is your friend (unlike in Revit). Use it constantly to keep things "separated". COMPONENT is great too, but for multiple occurrences of an item. Model up that complex porch column assembly, make it a component, copy it around the whole porch...now every time you edit or change that column at all, you see it being edited and updated in real time everywhere in the model that it occurs.

Drawing 2x material in section is sort-of a waste of component methodology. It's so fast to create a rectangle that's 9 1/4" x 1 1/2" and group it, that going and retrieving and placing "components" of such a simple thing is a bit tedious. Now, for doors, windows, toilets, light fixtures, entourage like plants and trees and TVs...absolutely.

For framing plans and such, having a "component" "square and X" symbol for a column, for example? Sure! Makes life easier, have a whole bunch of plan symbols.


----------



## KennMacMoragh

It's a good program, for me I would have to learn how to use it a lot faster to make it useful. I can draw an isometric with a paper and pencil in about half hour. If I use Sketchup I'd have to spend all day to get it how I want, even when I'm using compenents, groups, etc.


----------



## EthanB

KennMacMoragh said:


> It's a good program, for me I would have to learn how to use it a lot faster to make it useful. I can draw an isometric with a paper and pencil in about half hour. If I use Sketchup I'd have to spend all day to get it how I want, even when I'm using compenents, groups, etc.


The more you use it the faster it goes. I can rough an isometric in minutes but I find Realtime Landscaping Architect even faster. In an hour or two I can have a very realistic isometric which I can export to Layout and submit for my permits with full framing, dimensions and annotations. One of the major benefits over a hand-drawn document is that I can easily modify it to include and resizing or material changes the HO can think of versus having to redraft the entire thing.

@blackdoghamma: The benefit of importing your pre-made 2x components is that they also have a material applied. I just drop a bunch of components on the plan at the start and pull and copy from them as needed. It saves multiple trips to the component interface.


----------



## RobertCDF

EthanB said:


> The more you use it the faster it goes. I can rough an isometric in minutes but I find Realtime Landscaping Architect even faster. In an hour or two I can have a very realistic isometric which I can export to Layout and submit for my permits with full framing, dimensions and annotations. One of the major benefits over a hand-drawn document is that I can easily modify it to include and resizing or material changes the HO can think of versus having to redraft the entire thing.
> 
> @blackdoghamma: The benefit of importing your pre-made 2x components is that they also have a material applied. I just drop a bunch of components on the plan at the start and pull and copy from them as needed. It saves multiple trips to the component interface.


Save even more time and make a saved file with all the components dropped in and name it template. Then you just open it up and arrange them all.


----------

