# Supporting Partial Walls



## Hugh Stearns (Mar 14, 2008)

We will be building a large walkin shower. The opening is formed by two walls that connect to their perspective side walls only. These walls do not extend all the way to the ceiling. So these walls will be supported by the floor and one wall leaving one end and the top unsupported. One of the walls will be 6' 6" tall and the other will be 48" tall. How do I stiffen these walls to make them self supporting? They will have tile on at least one side. It seems that 4" masonry my be one solution. In which case should I be concerned about the weight on the monolithic slab? We do not normally work with block walls, much less 4" block walls. How much finesse does this take? Another option might be a metal end post bolted to the slab. Any clues on specifications? What options have I failed to consider?


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## EDC contractor (Jan 10, 2013)

The last ones I did, we framed up the partial walls, tied them into the existing walls, then sheeted the walls with 1/2" ply followed by 1/2" drywall. The ply keeps the walls from flexing and some construction adhesive between ply and drywall kept the whole thing tight.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Blocking and extend a leg or 2 below the floor to the joist, then a ply skin.

Ive done threaded rod and hold downs as well. not a bad option.


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Just traditional framing with 5/8 cdx would be fine if tied to two walls, but if you are worried throw two 4" sqaure tubing posts in it. 

Weight from a 6' block wall on a monolithic slab a problem? Are you for real?


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

My head is somewhere else its a slab.........duh


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I like to make a 3½" wall tie for the short wall and sheath and glue the short wall all the way on to the wall tie in the perpendicular wall. Make sure the short wall is plumb and braced as the sheathing and glue will have a lot of holding power. The perpendicular wall will need backing on top of the sheathing & wall tie on both sides. 

Now if you want to keep the short wall at 3½" wide I have another plan for that. It involves a plywood T the top of the T would go into the perpendicular wall and the leg of the T to the short wall:whistling


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## SSC (Feb 8, 2011)

Glue your drywall to the studs and plates is all we've ever needed. Although commercially we've used tube steel bolted to the deck on the free end of the wall


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

SSC said:


> Glue your drywall to the studs and plates is all we've ever needed. Although commercially we've used tube steel bolted to the deck on the free end of the wall


Why glue? Sheetrock in a shower?


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## SSC (Feb 8, 2011)

Whatever substrate you use gluing it to the studs takes out all the flex. Just have to make sure the bottom plate is screwed well and you glue to the plate as well. Also works with compound and with metal studs too.

Drywall in shower - hydroban, kerdi,red guard etc


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

I like to core the slab about 6" wide and min.14" deep.
Then insert 2" steel pipe, frame around that and voila, nice stiff end wall.


Andy.


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## SSC (Feb 8, 2011)

ScipioAfricanus said:


> I like to core the slab about 6" wide and min.14" deep.
> Then insert 2" steel pipe, frame around that and voila, nice stiff end wall.
> 
> 
> Andy.


That seems like alot of work foe.the same effect. 

2x2" tube steel with a square flange welded on the base anchored to the slab sounds alot nicer then the coring or chopping.

Also what if the slab is only 4"?


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

SSC said:


> Whatever substrate you use gluing it to the studs takes out all the flex. Just have to make sure the bottom plate is screwed well and you glue to the plate as well. Also works with compound and with metal studs too.
> 
> Drywall in shower - hydroban, kerdi,red guard etc


huh, never heard that. I would think screws would be sufficient. Good to know though.

I dig Densegaurd for showers. It cuts like drywall, might give it a try. although, if you jus a good shower guard it will be fine no matter what you use. Still makes me nervous:laughing:


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## CSinMa (Mar 4, 2012)

We build "kneewalls" with a 1/2" threaded rod vertical with washers and nuts to stiffin the walls. We have built 10 ft free standing walls 20 years ago that are still free standing today.


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