# 500 sheets of plywood with beam saw



## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Looking to cut couple hundret shets of plywood 

And would like to use makita 16" beam saw for that purpose or similar saw does any body can tell if the saw will have enought power to cut full depth ..... at 13 shets of 1/2 each...?

Or wormdrive will do better job...?

Track saws have smaller capacy and have less power...

Chainsaw makes too rought of a cut


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Track saw sounds like it would be better. IMO. Easier to handle without the fuss of setting up a guide each pass.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Whats the plywood for


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

I need to make a cut with 1/8 precision so chainsaw will not work....


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Ts75 will get through that accurately and quickly.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

BCConstruction said:


> Ts75 will get through that accurately and quickly.


With 1 to 4 gear ratio with regular saw wormdrive will win the race... capacy of the ts75 is just 1/4 more as its track saw....


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## AndyWRS (Sep 12, 2010)

I take it we are never going to get the Sword Saw in the US but, that would be yet another reason to pick one up 

I'd use the TS 75 also.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

JKAY said:


> With 1 to 4 gear ratio with regular saw wormdrive will win the race... capacy of the ts75 is just 1/4 more as its track saw....


I thought it was about accuracy? If you want to go fast use a chain saw. If you want 1/8" accuracy use a track saw.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

AndyWRS said:


> I take it we are never going to get the Sword Saw in the US but, that would be yet another reason to pick one up
> 
> I'd use the TS 75 also.


Wats a sword saw?


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

JKAY said:


> Wats a sword saw?


Its a track saw but with a chainsaw blade.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I always looked at cut roughness and cut accuracy as two different things. If you get a too rough, but accurate cut off of a stack, you can sand the edges, but that's extra time. 

Whether you can power through the cut or not is going to depend a lot on how much binding you're getting - bottom of the stack could be a problem.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

BCConstruction said:


> Its a track saw but with a chainsaw blade.


With track for chainsaw or without it will be hard to make square cut on all the shets...
Its about accuracy as well the speed

As for track ...Prazzi attachment would the same thing...


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Not really kidding.... buy it from a big box..... first cut per sheet is free!:thumbsup:


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

JKAY said:


> With track or without it will be hard to make square cut on all the shets... Its about accuracy as well the speed


Why will it be hard to make square cuts? Have you ever used a track saw?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

If do it in the shop on the pm66 and be faster and more accurate than any of you


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

hdavis said:


> I always looked at cut roughness and cut accuracy as two different things. If you get a too rough, but accurate cut off of a stack, you can sand the edges, but that's extra time.
> 
> Whether you can power through the cut or not is going to depend a lot on how much binding you're getting - bottom of the stack could be a problem.


Yes you are right those are different I need accuracy. ..


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Just one cut per sheet? For me, back delivery truck into shop. Unload bunks with my forklift. Move bunks one at a time close to my shop table saw. Make cut, re-stack on another pallet. Repeat till done. If you dont have the setup, see what you yard will charge you to pre-cut them. Thats alot of sheets to cut...


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

BCConstruction said:


> Why will it be hard to make square cuts? Have you ever used a track saw?


I was talking about sword saw....


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Not really kidding.... buy it from a big box..... first cut per sheet is free!:thumbsup:


Not kidding.... they'll do it for you.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

jlsconstruction said:


> If do it in the shop on the pm66 and be faster and more accurate than any of you


What's pm66 what shops usually use those?


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Sounds like it might be easier to reframe/rebuild to 48" or whatever:clap:


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

If you can do a cut every 30 seconds for 8 hours a day it will take you 7 days.


What are they for


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

The speed at which you can push the saw through the material won't be the primary limiting factor on how efficiently you work. Spend a few extra minutes thinking about the setup instead - a jig, or stops, and guide or rail, so that you can get repeatable accuracy, efficiently.


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

JKAY said:


> Yes that was the plan does it have the power to go thorough 12shets... or will digg in...?


 I have been cutting CLT panels the last 2 days and they are a bit over 4.5" and it has no problem powering through it. You just have to go slow and let the saw do the work , push to hard it will bind up and I can't imagine that saw kicking back.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Used a makita beam saw a couple weeks ago to cut a stack of zip sheathing. Worked really well, I've found since the blade is so thick it's doesn't flex much and give a straight cut square cut.



What would be a zip sheating... ? 
Have read one of the complains on the saw wen its get older it needs reajustment every 40 cuts to make cuts square again


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I can't imagine that saw kicking back.


 That's a scary thought...


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

What's it for? Menards sells 1x4x8' pine for less than $2...


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

jlsconstruction said:


> What are they for


Yeah... what he said


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

CrpntrFrk said:


> Kinda sounds like you made your mind up before you asked. I am sure the beam saw will do fine as Tylerwalker32 mentioned it worked well for him.
> 
> Every way will have plus and negative.


If I would have a chance to try every avilable option I would made a decision... Makita beamsaw might be great for beam cross cuts and to slow and inaccurate for rips...


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

JKAY said:


> What would be a zip sheating... ? Have read one of the complains on the saw wen its get older it needs reajustment every 40 cuts to make cuts square again


 zip sheathing is made by huber building products, it's Osb that had the house wrap and an impregnated layer on the outside so one your install the sheathing you just have to tape the seams. Great product I like working with it. And yeah I typically square it up right before I cut , not that big of a deal.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Well he does siding so maybe furring or something.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

overanalyze said:


> How thick is the plywood?


1/2 inch


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

jlsconstruction said:


> If you can do a cut every 30 seconds for 8 hours a day it will take you 7 days.
> 
> What are they for


Backing


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I have been cutting CLT panels the last 2 days and they are a bit over 4.5" and it has no problem powering through it. You just have to go slow and let the saw do the work , push to hard it will bind up and I can't imagine that saw kicking back.


Makita have 1800 wats out the maffel beam saw have 2800watts out but cos 4000 $ 
With the stack I will use full capacy of the saw all 6 3/4 inch if it will go slow with stops it will be faster go with a worm drive but in two passes.. ..


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

jlsconstruction said:


> Well he does siding so maybe furring or something.


Backing


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> The speed at which you can push the saw through the material won't be the primary limiting factor on how efficiently you work. Spend a few extra minutes thinking about the setup instead - a jig, or stops, and guide or rail, so that you can get repeatable accuracy, efficiently.


All efficiency in place need select right equipment for the job


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)

Jkay-jk-just kidding?


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Backing for what?


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

1x4 Baseboard backing?

We recently used 1/2" plywood for baseboard backer for 2' O.C. walls.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

To summarize:

500 sheets of 1/2'" 4' x 8' plywood ripped into 6,500 3-1/2" strips.

13 3-1/2" strips per sheet 

That's 9.848 linear miles of ripping 1/2" plywood. 

You will likely go through multiple blades, perhaps even multiple saws.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

TimelessQuality said:


> Backing for what?


Those are cabinets, doors, suport handles, different things will have different dimensions some will have to be precise for some it not important


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

How about make a jig with 3 or more work drive saws spaced just right and make multiple cuts at once.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Gang rip saw:thumbsup:


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Golden view said:


> How about make a jig with 3 or more work drive saws spaced just right and make multiple cuts at once.


Its good approach but as soon as you make many cuts material will lose stability if you have few operators... you can pair the saws but pieces would need to be at least wide as the saw body itself...


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

I was thinking one saw staggered behind the other so they can be spaced 3.5", so the loose pieces could be taken away for the next cut.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

I use to cut plywood trim for wooden one piece garage doors on a table saw its fast and easy. This company was in business for 35 years and it worked fine. Cut full sheets in 2" strips. You get really good at it, and learn how to handle the sheets without fighting them. We were building 100 doors a day.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Golden view said:


> I was thinking one saw staggered behind the other so they can be spaced 3.5", so the loose pieces could be taken away for the next cut.


What would the practical realization ....???
three saws will require three operators that will be in a way of one another one more person will be needed just to pick up the cut matterial


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

This is a 20-ft (or if you prefer 6-meter) high stack of plywood, to be cut for backers. For a project of that size, the yard gang saws it and delivers 13 wrapped pallets.

Edit: I'd sure get their price, anyway.

Edit again: As Dan hinted, maybe we're being trolled. Or JKAY is the FNG and after he figures this out he has to go find the boardstretcher.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

CarpenterSFO said:


> This is a 20-ft (or if you prefer 6-meter) high stack of plywood, to be cut for backers. For a project of that size, the yard gang saws it and delivers 13 wrapped pallets.


What would be cost per cut for that.... or per 1 pallet of ply?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

A PM 66 is a table saw.

The TS 75 will easily cut through five sheets at a time, clean edge, square edge, straight, accurate to the thousandths of an inch. 

I have 175 sheets of 3/4" mahogany ply coming for vanities I have to fabricate. Every piece will be cut/sized with my TS 55.

Tom


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

JKAY said:


> What would be cost per cut for that.... or per 1 pallet of ply?


Only one way to find out - ask the yard.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Only one way to find out - ask the yard.


If your in good with a lumberyard they will probably be cheaper then your guys, because they will be much faster with 100s of thousands of dollars worth of equipment at their disposal.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

JKAY said:


> What would the practical realization .... three saws will require three operators that will be in a way of one another one more person will be needed just to pick up the cut material


one operator is what I had in mind.


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

I have the Makita beam saw and that is what I would use.

If you can cut 13 sheets at a time... the 500 sheets can be cut as if you were cutting 38 sheets. Then the insane task of making 10 miles of rip cuts becomes 3/4 of a mile. Still mind and body numbing, but not quite crazy.

I would build a shooting board style jig that registers on the outside edge of the rip to be cut. The jig would create a track for the saw to ride in with blocks below the jig that grab the pile at the front and exit edges.

I would build the jig out of 10' long stock. At the jig entrance I would bolt a speed square to the bottom of the jig, maybe two poly speed squares, with just a saw kerf space between them. So if your blade is not true, you can't even enter the jig. Automatic calibration, every time.

After each rip, remove the cut offs and move the jig over tight to the next rip and repeat.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

If you use a beam saw, you will be cutting it close (pardon the pun) to get 13 - 3.5" pieces out of a sheet. A beam saw has at least a 1/4" kerf, doesn't it?

13 x 3.5 = 45.5 inches

12 x .25 = 3 inches

That exceeds 48 inches so you would only get 12 strips.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

It's more like 1/8" kerf


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Personally, I wouldn't want to be pushing any saw through a ply stack full depth - I haven't done it and I really wouldn't want to be the first to find out that there can be problems. I don't imagine it would be as bad as doing a full depth lumber rip on a 12" TS can be, but please post what you did and what you ran into. Having a strong MOFO in the saw might be a good idea.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I would get someone else to do it. That's a lot of rips. I would really have to toke up to do 200 sheets. Another thing that came to mind is a table saw with a power feeder set on a high speed Pretty darn safe especially if you're stoned.


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

Got any pics of this job? I'd love to see the size of a home that has 10 miles and $10,000 worth of "backer" in it.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Golden view said:


> one operator is what I had in mind.


The jig will be 3 1/2 ft long and will weight 70 lb and will need designed and build mechanicall support system and would be not viable for 500 sheets...


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

@txgencon,

The Beam saw blades I use have a .114" kerf which is about 7/64" or just under 1/8"

http://www.cpofreud.com/diablo-d163...t,pd.html?start=2&cgid=diablo-beam-saw-blades


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

basswood said:


> I have the Makita beam saw and that is what I would use.
> 
> If you can cut 13 sheets at a time... the 500 sheets can be cut as if you were cutting 38 sheets. Then the insane task of making 10 miles of rip cuts becomes 3/4 of a mile. Still mind and body numbing, but not quite crazy.
> 
> ...


Yes thats how its done

Can you tell me about the saw does it have it, to power up trought the stack, the wormdrive can be pushed and it will cut as requested... its also more manageable and creates a better rhythm. ..

I see as bouth saws can make comparable production each by its own strength. ..


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

CENTERLINE MV said:


> Got any pics of this job? I'd love to see the size of a home that has 10 miles and $10,000 worth of "backer" in it.


Its an upscale condominium 500 is aproximate number there will be more...


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

JKAY said:


> Its an upscale condominium 500 is aproximate number there will be more...


That makes WAY more sense.:thumbsup:


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

The Beam Saw can handle 5-1/2" rips in 6x beams. I have not used it in a stack of plywood, but I think it would do just fine. That saw creates it's own weather, if you know what I mean. It clears sawdust out of the kerf and shoots it into rows like a combine filling grain trucks.

I would try it on a series of rips. If it didn't work my second choice would be a worm drive with a 10" Bigfoot set up.

With a good jig, and a big saw, that job would only take... well it would still take about 40 or 50 hours of non-stop ripping. 

Sounds like a blast.:laughing:


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## tccoggs (Dec 17, 2008)

Direct ship the sheets to a large commercial shop that has a beam saw and I'm not talking about a large track saw I mean a gabbianni or holzma beam saw that is a large stationary saw where the material is clamped in place and a 14inch saw head rides on a fixed beam at a high rate of speed. Come back in 2 hours and it could be done.






For production cutting a beam saw is the fastest for sheet goods. When you go CNC you typically decide between nested manufacturing with a router vs. Beam saw and post production CNC to drill holes and mill joints. Both have their place depending on what you are producing and how much you are producing.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Affix a 48" piece of allthread to your worm drive output shaft with a coupler, and then mount a blade every 3.5", with a nut and a lock washer on each side.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

How about build the units to tolerances that don't require 9 miles of 'backer'....?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

well then that would make this thread meaningless


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Tom Struble said:


> well then that would make this thread meaningless


Or possibly a rather funny joke...


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Or do a T$M and use a Harbor Freight jig saw.:whistling


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

basswood said:


> The Beam Saw can handle 5-1/2" rips in 6x beams. I have not used it in a stack of plywood, but I think it would do just fine. That saw creates it's own weather, if you know what I mean. It clears sawdust out of the kerf and shoots it into rows like a combine filling grain trucks.
> 
> I would try it on a series of rips. If it didn't work my second choice would be a worm drive with a 10" Bigfoot set up.
> 
> ...


Lol will see.
Did it before with a tablesaw, but had more hands, with beam saw should be easier...


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

is all this backing for behind exterior trim?


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Golden view said:


> Affix a 48" piece of allthread to your worm drive output shaft with a coupler, and then mount a blade every 3.5", with a nut and a lock washer on each side.


Thats a saw with 48" jaws, it can be chalenging to cut with one blade with 13 you have a new game...a wormdrive is powerfull tool, but have limitations as well.... nonetheless if everything build and set up runs like a clock will cut 500 sheets in matter of hours ...that being said setting up will take more time than cutting...


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Tom Struble said:


> is all this backing for behind exterior trim?


Interior work, backing is ment for steel framing


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## Nick R (May 20, 2012)

This is kind of ridiculous to me. Have you considered a different material like strapping or rs ledger? Use something already milled, cutting that amount of plywood is boggling my mind how it could be worth you time. That's like ordering 2x12s for a 2x4 framed walls. I don't get it.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Nick R said:


> This is kind of ridiculous to me. Have you considered a different material like strapping or rs ledger? Use something already milled, cutting that amount of plywood is boggling my mind how it could be worth you time. That's like ordering 2x12s for a 2x4 framed walls. I don't get it.


Customer have its requirements and project specifications I have my estimate....


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

JKAY said:


> Thats a saw with 48" jaws, it can be chalenging to cut with one blade with 13 you have a new game...a wormdrive is powerfull tool, but have limitations as well.... nonetheless if everything build and set up runs like a clock will cut 500 sheets in matter of hours ...that being said setting up will take more time than cutting...


Please don't actually do this. I was joking.


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## tyb525 (Feb 26, 2013)

Find a 4' wide gang rip saw with lots of blades.


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## steex (Feb 19, 2013)

I don't get why it has to be cut with 1/8" precision if it's for backing. For backing what?


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

steex said:


> I don't get why it has to be cut with 1/8" precision if it's for backing. For backing what?


I just went through all his posts, can't seem to get a straight answer on this. Great question though!


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Get a Bigfoot chainsaw guide, it would be with buying a few more sheets because of the extra extra sawdust.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/mafell/MAF-PSS3100se.html
have them throw in a 3 1/2 jig and you are gold


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Golden view said:


> Please don't actually do this. I was joking.


Thats a great saw in tabletop version of it but would need new safety guy the one that is now would saw it would say - "that is it I quit!!!!"


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Here ya go...used gang rip

for 10K, you can be the backing ripping king of Ontario:laughing:


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## packer_rich (Dec 27, 2009)

jlsconstruction said:


> If do it in the shop on the pm66 and be faster and more accurate than any of you


That's a very generous offer.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> I just went through all his posts, can't seem to get a straight answer on this. Great question though!


There are many questions I cant answer all of them .... 

1/8 is requirement.... pieces reinforce door openings and need to sit flush wen drywall comes on top.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

jlsconstruction said:


> Get a Bigfoot chainsaw guide, it would be with buying a few more sheets because of the extra extra sawdust.


Yes Thats one way to go, plenty of power big capacy .... but big cerf, and variance and roughtness to the cut...., make me not consider it ...but it worth a try, likely have some defficiency but will do very well in some instances....


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

tccoggs said:


> Direct ship the sheets to a large commercial shop that has a beam saw and I'm not talking about a large track saw I mean a gabbianni or holzma beam saw that is a large stationary saw where the material is clamped in place and a 14inch saw head rides on a fixed beam at a high rate of speed. Come back in 2 hours and it could be done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Out of all these responses, this one has the most merit in my opinion. Moving forward on this without exploring this option to it's fullest would be foolish, again in my opinion.

There is a cabinet shop within a mile of mine that has one of these and I have hired him for things very similar to this. There is absolutely no chance I could do this with my cnc, table saw, track saw, hand held anything, any CHEAPER, faster, or more conveniently. 

I would have the supplier drop the units at his shop and pick up the pallets of parts as well. The easy way is plenty hard enough.


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

TimelessQuality said:


> Here ya go...used gang rip
> 
> for 10K, you can be the backing ripping king of Ontario:laughing:


2k for transporting the equipment too big for the site you would need to rent s space, and run maintenance on it..... 
Option in case of 500 shets a day but not for the site...


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

Gus Dering said:


> Out of all these responses, this one has the most merit in my opinion. Moving forward on this without exploring this option to it's fullest would be foolish, again in my opinion.
> 
> There is a cabinet shop within a mile of mine that has one of these and I have hired him for things very similar to this. There is absolutely no chance I could do this with my cnc, table saw, track saw, hand held anything, any CHEAPER, faster, or more conveniently.
> 
> I would have the supplier drop the units at his shop and pick up the pallets of parts as well. The easy way is plenty hard enough.


Everyone have a merit based on its experience in that respect every intrest and each opinion has value to me

Now level of automation shows that this equipment is capital investment to have a return on that the price per cut must be hight...
if I had to build all cabinets for this project thats around 300 kitchens and delivery consistency and precision would be at question this would be an option....


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

Jesus Christ, just give a couple teenage interns a couple circ saws with edge guides and let them go to work for a day. You're welcome. Next!


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

This is why I would deal with a Commercial Lumber Supplier for custom orders like this.

This is approx 7 units of plywood.

No way in hell would I ever consider taking delivery and then trying to rip on site.

Place the order with the yard and take delivery of the pieces cut to spec & shrink wrapped. Commercial Yards do this all the time & VERY reasonably.


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## procrpntr (Nov 17, 2013)

I would call the plywood manufacturer directly and see if they can do it.otherwise I like basswood suggests. Also I can appreciate the desire to do it all at once, but what is the installation rate to cut rate speed ? It may be a guy could cut fast enough to keep up 
with installers. Also you better make sure, you have good power supply, and replacement brushes, on hand. Cut after cut makes the saw hot so using two alternately, May be something to consider


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

how does a rip of 1/2'' ply ''reinforce'' a steel stud?

i mean i've see 2x used around doorways but not ply,and if it was proper to use ply wouldn't it be an easy item to get?


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

JKAY said:


> Everyone have a merit based on its experience in that respect every intrest and each opinion has value to me
> 
> Now level of automation shows that this equipment is capital investment to have a return on that the price per cut must be hight...
> if I had to build all cabinets for this project thats around 300 kitchens and delivery consistency and precision would be at question this would be an option....


 Lets not forget I said "MOST merit". 

If I was a caveman doing it with a handsaw instead of a sharpened rock, it would be an incredible improvement.

I still have some caveman left in me but I know how I would do this. And nobody would be pulling a trigger on a hand held saw. Times have progressed to automated machines, they have computer screens on them and everything. Big machines with wheels can lift the material on and off trucks too. :laughing:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

+1 what Ugg says..:hammer:


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## basswood (Oct 31, 2008)

You would have to be desperate for work and really really bored to take it on.:whistling

Then if you got the job you would be really really bored and desperate to be out of work.:laughing:


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

griz said:


> This is why I would deal with a Commercial Lumber Supplier for custom orders like this.
> 
> This is approx 7 units of plywood.
> 
> ...


If you will be managing the project thats what we will do....
Customer have a policy to supply the matterials and does not want to produce cuts offsite at yard because of the costs....now they have budget and its within they best intrest to make workflow cost effective....


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## JKAY (Jul 17, 2013)

procrpntr said:


> I would call the plywood manufacturer directly and see if they can do it.otherwise I like basswood suggests. Also I can appreciate the desire to do it all at once, but what is the installation rate to cut rate speed ? It may be a guy could cut fast enough to keep up
> with installers. Also you better make sure, you have good power supply, and replacement brushes, on hand. Cut after cut makes the saw hot so using two alternately, May be something to consider


No problem -20 C here..


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