# Stackable Washer and Dryer



## Tashler (Mar 4, 2006)

Doing a remodel and addition. Now that it is underway, the HO decides that the linen closet on the new second floor should be made larger to accommodate a stack-able laundry unit. Is there a standard or normal size of the closet or room for these?

Would be a great idea if he would call the archy, but not sure he would be much help regardless.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I've been involved with many a nightmare, impossible hook ups on those.

Water hook up access for shut off. Venting hook up issues. Waterproofing, curb, floor drain and tile optional. 

Common sense. Tools needed............Tape measure.

No big deal, really. :cowboy:


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Tashler said:


> Doing a remodel and addition. Now that it is underway, the HO decides that the linen closet on the new second floor should be made larger to accommodate a stack-able laundry unit. Is there a standard or normal size of the closet or room for these?
> 
> Would be a great idea if he would call the archy, but not sure he would be much help regardless.


Big Shoe covered most of the bases, most important being drain on a second floor and water valve closet... but keep in mind it will depend on the type of stackable they choose which will then determine the dimensions... 

That's your starting point...


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Sorry Kap. I edited my post while you posted yours. Then I had to re edit. It's the oxicodine kicking in. :blink:


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Depth is the killer. Have a small condo rental with one, using Electroluxe (I think) and if I recall, the depth to the face of the wall is 32" - just enough with bi-folds mounted.

Bosch & Miele were even bigger than Electoluxe/Whirlpool.

If the closet space is barely wider than the unit, then there's no option but to use flexi tubing - no rigid piping, and this requires some back space.

If the unit is allowed to be shoved all the way back, it can crush the tubing - ask me how I know. Need blocks to stop tenant from shoving it back to store laundry soap and paper bags,etc.

Also, dryer exhausts mid-height, at about same level of a traditional laundry supply/waste box.

And, there needs to be enough free space directly in front of the unit to be able to make the connections before sliding unit back in.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

These SUCK!!!! We just did one in our last remodel and they are a complete pain to hook up. Is there a way to gain access from the rear or side for hooking it up?


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

The floor drain is an absolute necessity,I would also highly recommend a curb and tile up wall around 6" minimum. 


Of course,the curb also makes placing the unit way more fun.:laughing:


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

All of the above, plus the front clearance needs to allow at least pulling and turning the unit to be able to repair it. If you have basically 0 side clearance, then you have to be able to pull it 100% out and clear on a diagonal when it gets turned.

Most front loads have pump filters that aren't always easy to get to, but they have to be cleaned periodically. Enough room to lay on the floor and do this in place is always good. 

Last comment - if it walks, it can get up against base (if there is base), and it will seem to be out of balance. In a tight space, I'll install something like cleats on the floor so it can't walk sideways.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

I've put a few of these in.

People hated them.

Went back on two of the jobs and figured a way to install conventional washers & dryers.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

Look into dryer box for the venting.
Pain to service them but nice if space is really limited.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Love dryerboxes!


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Tashler said:


> Doing a remodel and addition. Now that it is underway, the HO decides that the linen closet on the new second floor should be made larger to accommodate a stack-able laundry unit. Is there a standard or normal size of the closet or room for these?
> 
> Would be a great idea if he would call the archy, but not sure he would be much help regardless.


36" x 36" sounds good. Whatever it takes to make installation doable. 

Accessibility for water hook up and emergency shut off should be planned. 

Meet with your plumbing,electric and mechanical trades for rough in locations.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Depth is the killer. Have a small condo rental with one, using Electroluxe (I think) and if I recall, the depth to the face of the wall is 32" - just enough with bi-folds mounted.
> 
> Bosch & Miele were even bigger than Electoluxe/Whirlpool.
> 
> ...


Practice your upside-down, backwards, from behind, left-handed foil duct tape wrapping, which you will resort to when the hose clamp chops through the flex for the 4th time.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Practice your upside-down, backwards, from behind, left-handed foil duct tape wrapping, which you will resort to when the hose clamp chops through the flex for the 4th time.


Yup. On original install, I had carefully foil taped all the connections leading from the rigid connections to the flexi.

Then the blower impeller exploded. Get new blower - no clamp included - improvise.

Blower easily accessed from front cover. 10 minute job. Turns out it is physically impossible to remove blower housing without dismantling all those rigid couplings/elbow/foil tape.

Guess what - no new foil tape - would have to completely pull unit back out again, which means pulling front entry door, putting down underlayment to protect hardwood, popping up over curb YI-YI-YI!. It goes off-lease this week, and it'll get pulled for a 100% repaint before putting it on the market to sell.

Damn! what frustration!


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Practice your upside-down, backwards, from behind, left-handed foil duct tape wrapping, which you will resort to when the hose clamp chops through the flex for the 4th time.


I've never tried it, but I wonder if you expand the interior dimension to 42" and installed a 1000lb. lazy susan so you could turn the unit if that would make it easier for connections?

What I did for a rental was made the closet for the stackable in the kitchen next to fridge and to look like built-in pantry but the side is removable for access for easy pull to repair or connections...


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

If there is any way to get access to the sides, it will make it so much easier to install.

My wife wanted a stackable. I took out the conventional and installed a stackable. She loves it. She also loves the extra floor space in the laundry room.

If it is doable, the homeowner will really appreciate it. having a laundry on the second floor is a good thing.


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## TWhite (Oct 29, 2013)

Why are you guys installing appliances? I've done it before but....just pay the extra $50 to $100 to have the installation done by professionals. It's so much better and easier on your back!


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## river rider (Dec 31, 2012)

I looked into it before and found there is no standard. Select the unit & build for that if you can. Additional clearance in any direction will ease connecting 

Last one I did, I put the washer box and the GFI on the side wall. Very beneficial to be able to reach in to connect, shut off, or reset. Thought I might have to go GFI breaker, but elect inspector said fine as long as GFI can be reached. 

Tape hoses & cord to the unit so you don't have to fight them during duct connecting. Make those sidewall connections fairly easily after the venting contortions in back are done.

This laundry was added for future use, in a bathroom while remodeling an adjacent bathroom, but I ended up doing the stacked unit install a few months later as a courtesy after her son in law couldn't do it. She reused her full size (but stackable) units, which made it way worse.

I ended up removing the stub out elbow for the vent, and cutting a slot in the rock to allow the flex connection to be the elbow and recess fully into the stud bay. This eliminated the need for any "periscope" section that needs more depth to not be constricted. It gained me a few inches and allowed door to operate.

Much swearing involved with the whole thing. PITA right from it's first glimmer of a plan. Access panel in adjacent closet is an excellent idea if possible. Keep it in mind while running wiring & mechanical. Some trade will consume the easy open stud bay if allowed to.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

TWhite said:


> Why are you guys installing appliances? I've done it before but....just pay the extra $50 to $100 to have the installation done by professionals. It's so much better and easier on your back!


Because I don't trust those delivery driver/installers around my newly done floors/walls/cabinets.


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

As a rule, I don't install appliances. I never hook-up a washer, dishwasher, or ice maker. We do get stuck installing above the range microwaves, once in a while. I always tell the customer to pay for installation when they buy the appliances. What happens is sometimes they want to re-use their existing appliances.

The stackable I mentioned above was used and it was for myself. (wife actually)

Lately I've seen customers buy above the range microwaves with installation. When they show up to install it, they make some weird excuse as to why it can't be done and they are told to call the contractor. I suspect this is a way to get out of installation.


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