# retaining wall with built in grill



## hollywood465 (Apr 27, 2011)

Was wondering what would be the best way to take this on and build it. I have a customer that has a walk out basement and right outside the door is a 17 x 17 crete pad with 3 foot tall retaining walls on either side. He wants both walls knocked down and rebuilt, along with a bunch of other things. On one wall though he wants a built-in grill top. it's one of those that has the separate stainless door mounted into the wall under the grill itself to keep the propane tank in. here's my question: because I will have to basically have a box (sides and back along with the front wall itself) to house the tank and create something to place the crete countertops and grill on what would be the best way to build or best material used to create the back and sides? It will also have to retain the 3 foot of earth.
The front face will be the same block (which will be cut so that they are not so deep) as the rest of the retaining and freestanding walls to keep it uniform. I was originally going to pour concrete walls and then considered blocks for this box. I also thought of the precast pieces but didn’t think it would withstand the pressure as doubling as a retaining wall.
Any suggestions?


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## Calisota (Apr 15, 2011)

I'm just going to assume your in the LA basin due to your name. So, without getting into all the caveats about hillside ordinances and retaining walls, you need to consider the forces exerted on that wall. Does 3' height include the footing, or just what's above grade? You're dancing around the maximum height requirements for permit/non-permit retaining walls, especially troublesome in hillside zones, and the wall is measured to the BOTTOM of the footing. Is the grade behind the wall level or sloped as it approaches the top of the wall? If sloped, there is even more surcharge exerted on the wall. 

If slope stability is not a concern (basically garden wall) you could use drystack, interlocking block.

You're safest installing reinforced concrete block and footing with proper drainage at the base of the wall. Block out the alcove you need as part of the wall's footprint. Once back-filled and compacted, you'll need to put a reinforced counter footing under the perimeter of the counter at grade (assuming grade is flat and level above retaining walls). The counter will be at grade and subject to moisture and settling if not suported by it's own "footing", which shouldn't need to be as deep as the wall.

Without pics, this could go a million different directions. Unless you need full cabinets along the whole wall, building a double wall is a waste.


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## hollywood465 (Apr 27, 2011)

Calisota said:


> I'm just going to assume your in the LA basin due to your name. So, without getting into all the caveats about hillside ordinances and retaining walls, you need to consider the forces exerted on that wall. Does 3' height include the footing, or just what's above grade? You're dancing around the maximum height requirements for permit/non-permit retaining walls, especially troublesome in hillside zones, and the wall is measured to the BOTTOM of the footing. Is the grade behind the wall level or sloped as it approaches the top of the wall? If sloped, there is even more surcharge exerted on the wall.


Sorry. You’re right Calisota, I didn't include any of the important stuff. Got too far ahead of myself. The first specific is no I am actually very far away from LA. I live in South Dakota. :lol: (off topic but I have had the nickname "Hollywood" for the past 10 years and it just stuck. Enough so that there are more people here that know me by Hollywood then my real name! Some of which are even coworkers and called friends. So Hollywood Landscapes was born. Plus, from a marketing stand point "Hollywood" definitely stands out here in South Dakota. ) Now with all that, the max height before a permit is needed here is the 4 foot including the wall base. So the total height of this wall would be 3.5 feet, 3 foot would be exposed. This will give me my 36” to place my countertop (38” once installed. They are pretty tall so this height will be comfortable for them) I’m using Anchor Wall Artisana 6” multi-piece retaining and freestanding block. As far as surcharge, it is close to level moving away from the wall but slopes away from the house or with the length of the wall (the two walls run perpendicular from the house) The wall will get lower the further out I go. And yes you’re right. I don’t need a full double wall. It would really just be a 5’ long x 2’ wide “bump out” from the main wall. The portion of wall directly in front of the bump out will appear the same as the rest of the wall for aesthetics but not actually be retaining anything. This portion will just be freestanding to support the grill top and stainless door.


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