# Skim coating a Gloss surface-Questions/Solutions?



## NewWorldArtisan (May 2, 2013)

I am a decorative painter and texturer by trade, though I mostly work in new builds and have never encountered this issue. Done a bit of research and just want to run my solutions by all of you.

I am getting ready to texture and multi-color a salon. The problems? The original wall treatment is some sort of fabric based application. It has since been painted many times with high-gloss paint. The final outcome is a high gloss surface with thousands of 3milx3mil raised squares. Weird, I know...

I use glazes that I tint myself for the multi-color(Faux Effects). So, even if I were to just be painting the wall I would need to de-gloss and/or prime. Where I run into the problem is the need to also skim/retexture and latex before I even do the pretty stuff.

So, my solution is as follows, stop me and yell if you disagree or can add to it.

The original wall treatment is on there and not going anywhere, ever. 

So...
1. Scuff gloss paint with 120 grit
2. double coat with Zinsser BullsEye 1-2-3(Or would Gardz be better)
3. Skim coat with Green Lid JC, twice minimum
4. Apply hand trowel Sante Fe Style texture(Probably heavier, more dramatic)
5. Coat with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 again(Needed?)
6. 2-coat with eggshell latex
7. Paint with glazes

Outside of this solution, how long would I need to let the first 2 coats of primer dry before adding the skim coat over the original wall treatment? Am I an the right path for this project?

Thanks in advance for all of the help!


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I would think one coat of Guardz or my favorite Cover Stain oil would do. Also you should prime before topcoat.

Good luck.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

I think your solution sounds like it will work. Under step 2, two coats never hurts but I would think the second coat may not be necessary but obviously you will have a better idea at the time if that is so.

For step 5 I think I would use a latex primer to seal the skim coats.

As for letting the first two coats dry I know it is fast drying stuff but I would not rush it. I use the SW Shellac primer and I always do it at the end of a day and let it dry overnight, the stuff stinks so bad I want to get out of there. If thats not possible then at least a several hours. 

Good luck.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

I'd prime with gardz and let it dry overnight > skim with 90 or 45 minute mud > skim second coat with green lid ap > texture > prime zinnser 123. Good luck and keep us posted.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

I'd do what Paul says, but if time is an issue or if you're really paranoid about the bonding then use plaster-weld. It's ready for a skim coat in an hour.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

aptpupil said:


> I'd do what Paul says, but if time is an issue or if you're really paranoid about the bonding then use plaster-weld. It's ready for a skim coat in an hour.


 I knew they had an exterior product but never saw the interior one. Who sells that. 

How does it do over wallpaper and or glue residue from wall paper?

And I've still never seen Guardz in any stores. (maybe PPG) I know Paul likes that one and I'm itching to try it.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

Big Shoe said:


> I knew they had an exterior product but never saw the interior one. Who sells that.
> 
> How does it do over wallpaper and or glue residue from wall paper?
> 
> And I've still never seen Guardz in any stores. (maybe PPG) I know Paul likes that one and I'm itching to try it.


I get mine from a building supply place that specializes in stucco and plaster products.
So long as the wallpaper or glue is sticking to the wall, the plaster-weld will stick to it and you should be fine. I think the instructions give the usual "sound and clean substrate" guidelines. It's good stuff.


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## Tim0282 (Dec 11, 2007)

We use white glue. Buy it in a gallon jug and add just a little water to it so it flows easier. Roll it on to anything and anything will stick to it. Works great when a homeowner has scraped off most of the wall paper and leaves all the hanging out paper. This will make it hard and stick to the wall. Sand it lightly and skim with mud. Works great for going over glossy surfaces. The mud won't bubble and drive you nuts.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

I think your plan is a good one. I've done steps 1-6 exactly, stopping there because we aren't decorative painters. 1-2-3 works great for this purpose.

Have you checked out fauxforum.com? Lots of great advice on exactly this sort of question.


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## NewWorldArtisan (May 2, 2013)

Sorry for the long wait between my replies. Been SO BUSY it's not even funny. Thank you all for your replies! I truly appreciate all your expertise. I can't tell you all how helpful this forum has been for this issue. I let the client know of the issues and am currently awaiting the go ahead and materials payout. I'll keep you all updated and I'll be sure to post plenty of pictures when it's all done!

One more question, when using adhesive supplemented hot mud, do you all add after mis adhesive, or just rely on the adhesive already in the mud? If you add, what are your mixes? I know when I make vertical concrete I use 25 percent bonding agent to 75 percent water and just use that as my liquid for the concrete mix. Is it the same for mud?


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

If you are applying a bonder to the wall first I really don't think you need to add anything to the hot mud.

I've never added a bonder to anything(pre primed) ever. No problems.


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## NewWorldArtisan (May 2, 2013)

Big Shoe said:


> If you are applying a bonder to the wall first I really don't think you need to add anything to the hot mud.
> 
> I've never added a bonder to anything(pre primed) ever. No problems.


K. Sounds great! Thanks!


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

The only concern I have is breaking down the paint surface I would use 80 grit sandpaper you do that then use 90 Durabond brown bag then apply your texture over the 90 then prime, then you can finish with your faux finishes :thumbsup:


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## westco (Nov 21, 2007)

I'll offer my 2 cents.

Sand to scuff the gloss and either roll on a coat of glue you can get it in gallon jugs or add it to your mud, we have also used the concrete bonding agent, the milky white stuff you're supposed to add to cement to make it stronger I forge it's name, woks great and a small bottle goes a long way.


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## endo_alley (Apr 9, 2013)

We've had good luck using a coat of "Drawtite" over paper and then kilz when it has dried. The drawtite helps bond any loose layers.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

How much area are you talking about? That would play a role in what I do im like mike holmes I like to rip stuff out and do new if the options are labour intense with lots of pricey products but I board and tape to so its a bit easier for me.


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