# HB&G Permacast Help



## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

Hey all,

I'm trying to use HB&G Permacast columns as the supports for a beam on a freestanding deck (attached to house but not bearing). Anyone know the best way to anchor these to footings and to connect the beam to the top of them? Only used them in wood to wood applications before.

Thanks,
Andrew


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## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

I just predrill the bases and use a TapCon.


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## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

You mean screwing brackets into the column and then using tapcons to attach those brackets into the masonry footing?


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

I would attach base first with tapcons like Jason said then cut the column and slide it into place.


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## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

Oh OK, for some reason I thought the base on those permacasts was just trim and not structural.

Am I wrong about this?


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## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

The base and the capitals are what holds the columns from shifting from side to side. I wouldn't run a screw into the column itself because you could ruin the structural integrity of the columns by weakening it with holes from the screws.


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

Honestly I not sure. But I would assume they are structual since the column sits on or in the bases, they would transfer the weight of the deck to the column. Even though the bases are referred to as ornamental features. I am sure someone smart than me will be around with a better answer


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## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

Ok, now I understand. So for the cap connecting to the beam.....screw or lag those into the (3)2x10 beam bearing on it?


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## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

One other thing; I usually cut my column to size, slide the base and capital over the column, move the column into place, and attach the base and capital.

If you have several in line with each other, set them to a center mark rather than a string line. These columns vary in shape and size. If you string one side, the opposite side will look out of whack. Best to snap a center line along the row and trust that line.


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## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

Agolk2 said:


> Ok, now I understand. So for the cap connecting to the beam.....screw or lag those into the (3)2x10 beam bearing on it?


Yup, thats about it. I wouldn't call them structural, but rather a trap that keeps them from sliding around. The column itself is what holds the weight from above. 

Caulk around the base and capital to the column but not to the floor. Let water come out at the bottom should the caulk joint ever fail. Use a good sealant with plenty of flexability. I would use DynaFlex, not painters caulk.


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

Yup Jason got you on the right track. 

I see you are in DC. Do you want me to run the calcs, size the columns and install them for you too:w00t:


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## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

Would be open to it, as long as the contractor is OK with you taking a good chunk of his profit :laughing:


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## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks to Jason as well.


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

Email me when you get a chance and I will put your info in my rolodex [email protected]


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## Agolk2 (Mar 24, 2008)

RBS, I do work with contractors in the DC, VA, MD area, send me an email at [email protected] -- we could give each other some work I'm sure.

Thanks,
Andrew


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

Email sent Andrew


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## buletbob (Mar 16, 2008)

Here what I have done in the past. Just thought I throw it out there, I took some 5/4 ACQ and cut it the same dia. as the inside of the post just shy 1/4" and screwed it down to the deck and then laid the column over it to help give it some support from kicking side to side. I have seen some BRATS! grabbing them and swinging around, just did not want to put all my faith in the base's being the only thing holding them in place. Don't want to wind up with a letter from there Lawyer if you know what I mean.


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