# Tapco pro 14 help



## jdorpaudi (Nov 11, 2010)

Hi. I've got a tapco pro 14 brake, 10'6" long
My problem is, when I bend a 90 degree piece the ends are a little tighter then 90 and the middle is a little looser then 90. I've be trying some adjustment and nothing seems to help. Is something worn? Or adjustment issue?
Thanks


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Pressure adjustments,,,,

The manual for your model doesn't have any info on this, unless I missed something...:blink:


When I had mine (a very ,long,long time ago ) it had adjustments for this.


Check page 5 of the pro III manual....http://www.abccatalog.com/Literature/0150060007.pdf






B,


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## jdorpaudi (Nov 11, 2010)

Ya, I've read that before and also watched a YouTube video about that. 
When it talks about clamping the piece in there and then being able to slide it, there is no way to make mine loose enough to slide. The bolt that goes through the link, at the loosest setting, is about half way up the slide. Not sure if that makes any sense, do I need to trim the piece of rubber in there so that there is more adjustment?


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Can you throw up a picture ....:blink:



B,


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

The one I've been using has the same problem...


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Same problem here. Can't get tight hems lately either. I've tried adjusting it a bunch of ways. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong.


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## builditguy (Nov 10, 2013)

Mine did that for years. Sold it. Bought a Pro 19. Fixed the problem.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

My Black Max bends the ends past 90 too. Just got use to bending them back problem solved. Sometimes wonder if it is not because the may be less bend resistance at the ends then the middle?


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

EricBrancard said:


> Same problem here. Can't get tight hems lately either. I've tried adjusting it a bunch of ways. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong.


Dumb question Eric ,but you are lifting up the bottom to hem right.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Randy Bush said:


> My Black Max bends the ends past 90 too. Just got use to bending them back problem solved. Sometimes wonder if it is not because the may be less bend resistance at the ends then the middle?


This has always been my theory.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

Have you tightened the hex bolts on the arms? We have a good tapco rep in our area one call to him and he is there same day for a tune up


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Patrick said:


> Have you tightened the hex bolts on the arms? We have a good tapco rep in our area one call to him and he is there same day for a tune up


Not sure I see how this would affect things once the brake is locked down.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Randy Bush said:


> Dumb question Eric ,but you are lifting up the bottom to hem right.


Yeah, close the jaws, position the piece in the pocket and pull up on the handle. Small pieces close nice and tight, but the long pieces just don't close up as tight as I would like. 

I'm wondering if any of this has to do with that rubber strip being worn out or oddly compressed?


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Randy Bush said:


> Sometimes wonder if it is not because the may be less bend resistance at the ends then the middle?


Yep. Basic physics. The center is surrounded by a bunch of stuff; the ends aren't. Watch any experienced brake man, and he does the compensating stroke at each end without even thinking about it.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> Yep. Basic physics. The center is surrounded by a bunch of stuff; the ends aren't. Watch any experienced brake man, and he does the compensating stroke at each end without even thinking about it.


I've always run my hand starting at the center and gradually applying pressure towards the end to kind of straighten things out. Just par for the course?


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Yep, though on a 10' piece I'd probably start 2-3' from each end. Just depends on what gauge metal and how fussy you need to be.


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## Roofcheck (Dec 27, 2011)

EricBrancard said:


> Same problem here. Can't get tight hems lately either. I've tried adjusting it a bunch of ways. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong.


Tight hems are not as strong as loose hems.


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## Roofcheck (Dec 27, 2011)

Adjusting brakes isn't righty tightly and lefty loosy.


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## Roofcheck (Dec 27, 2011)

Bending say window casings (a lot) then going to straight pieces will need adjusting. Rebuild kits are like $100 if you just wore out the cams.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Roofcheck said:


> Tight hems are not as strong as loose hems.


Loose hems can't lay as flat as tight hems when things are overlapping.


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## Roofcheck (Dec 27, 2011)

Clip the over lapped piece at a 45 and slide that piece into the hem of your next piece. Not tight- leave 1/4" from the overlap for expansion contraction. 

I mark my facia 3/4 and 2 (3/4 is the hem leaving 1-1/4 inch. So when I overlap I only overlap 1 inch leaving that 1/4 inch noted above.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Roofcheck said:


> Clip the over lapped piece at a 45 and slide that piece into the hem of your next piece. Not tight- leave 1/4" from the overlap for expansion contraction. I mark my facia 3/4 and 2 (3/4 is the hem leaving 1-1/4 inch. So when I overlap I only overlap 1 inch leaving that 1/4 inch noted above.


I don't even mark it, it comes out perfect every time.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Roofcheck said:


> Clip the over lapped piece at a 45 and slide that piece into the hem of your next piece. Not tight- leave 1/4" from the overlap for expansion contraction.
> 
> I mark my facia 3/4 and 2 (3/4 is the hem leaving 1-1/4 inch. So when I overlap I only overlap 1 inch leaving that 1/4 inch noted above.


I'm talking about where the rake comes across the return, not overlapping runs of the same bend. I also clip the hem in that case.


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## thesidingpro (Jun 7, 2007)

I've also assumed it was due to the middle of the break getting more use which caused it to wear faster. Similar to how the driver seat in a vehicle wears faster.

To adjust it I always put dollars bills under each clamping arm. I adjust it to the point I can barely pull the dollar out.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

thesidingpro said:


> I've also assumed it was due to the middle of the break getting more use which caused it to wear faster. Similar to how the driver seat in a vehicle wears faster.
> 
> To adjust it I always put dollars bills under each clamping arm. I adjust it to the point I can barely pull the dollar out.


I don't think it is so much he is having problems with the coil slipping. More so that the ends will bend more past 90 the the middle. In which case I still believe it is more because of less resistance on the ends the the middle.


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## jdorpaudi (Nov 11, 2010)

Randy Bush said:


> I don't think it is so much he is having problems with the coil slipping. More so that the ends will bend more past 90 the the middle. In which case I still believe it is more because of less resistance on the ends the the middle.


ya, ive never really thought about it like that, but it makes sense. in the middle there is material on each side the resists it to bending.
next time i do some bending im going to test with a 5ft piece, slid to one side. maybe the end (which is in the middle) will overbend also.


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## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

On the brake I've used, even fairly short pieces bend this way, I've just always run my finger to the ends to straighten it out.

I watched the brake at our local metal store bend trim, it's a big heavy pneumatic brake, computer controlled, and it seems to bend it perfect from one end to the other. It's bending thicker metal though, maybe that makes a difference.


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## thesidingpro (Jun 7, 2007)

Randy Bush said:


> I don't think it is so much he is having problems with the coil slipping. More so that the ends will bend more past 90 the the middle. In which case I still believe it is more because of less resistance on the ends the the middle.


I agree that is true but I've also noticed fresh out of box or after complete rebuild this issue is minimal.

I think it's a combination of things. The rubber piece on the hinge and meta l edge on the clamp do wear as we'll.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

If you really want to put it to a test, it's easy. Take a half-dozen or so pieces 3-4" wide, distribute them over a 10' span, and bend them all at once. With a properly adjusted brake, they should all be nearly identical.

Then do the same with one piece 10' wide, and compare the results.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

thesidingpro said:


> I agree that is true but I've also noticed fresh out of box or after complete rebuild this issue is minimal.
> 
> I think it's a combination of things. The rubber piece on the hinge and meta l edge on the clamp do wear as we'll.


Yes I would agree both of them items could do that too. Have replaced the stainless edge on mine and it did seem to help some. I am so use to just running my hand down it that it is no big thing.


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## sxr951 (May 3, 2019)

any1 got info on how to adjust a old 14 pro.. my pro 50 is different. its set way to tight. making long indent lines.. just bought this used 14 thk heaps!


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

sxr951 said:


> any1 got info on how to adjust a old 14 pro.. my pro 50 is different. its set way to tight. making long indent lines.. just bought this used 14 thk heaps!


Have you checked the Tapco website? I'm pretty sure there should be a manual that you can download with that info.


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

https://www.tapcotools.com/assets/files/24/manual_pro14_19.pdf

Just looked, not very helpful with any adjustments. I would try contacting them to see if they can give you some info.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

This is for my Max II , but same adj.ustments


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

better pic


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