# Hanging Cabinets with metal studs



## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

I was wondering,, Is procedure for hanging wall cabinets to steel studa the same as wood studs? Do you use a fine thread screw?


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## GRB (Feb 23, 2009)

Is the wall open or finished? If open, install solid lumber blocking horizontally between the studs & secure the cabinets to that as you normally would.

If you have to fasten to the studs, use screws designed specifically for the application. Do not use drywall screws, as they have no tensile strength & may fail in a shear application. BTW - we use trim washers with the above screws for a more finished appearance.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

well well well lookie what the cat dragged in:whistling


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## GRB (Feb 23, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> well well well lookie what the cat dragged in:whistling


 :huh:


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

If I can't install plywood backing, I use toggle bolts. In every stud.


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## MLCcarpenter (Dec 11, 2011)

Install 6" 20 ga backing strips at the top and bottom of cabinet location and use self tapping screws when installing cabinets. You can pick them up at your local drywall supplier.


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## MLCcarpenter (Dec 11, 2011)

Also if plywood or 2 bys are used more than likely fire treated lumber will be required.


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

I also attach fire treated 2x's in the studs. I'll cut out the drywall if it's there, install my backers, and either re-attach the drywall, or use the same thickness ply. The cabs cover the patch, so it's no biggie.


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## ROVACON (Apr 19, 2010)

http://www.danback.com/

This is what we use.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

MLCcarpenter said:


> Install 6" 20 ga backing strips at the top and bottom of cabinet location and use self tapping screws when installing cabinets. You can pick them up at your local drywall supplier.


Ive done that in the past to hang heavy jewlery display cabinets..

Just screwed the flat stock on the face of the drywall into the studs and the cabinet hides it.

And of course you can cut the drywall out and install the flat stock and patch and hang on that


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

For those of you who do this often I have a question.

I installed wood blocking in between the studs a few times at best and when I did I use a hand seamer metal bending tool to flatten the stud rollover so my blocking laid nicer.

It obviously worked okay but I wonder how much strength was lost by doing it. Is there a better technique?


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## packer_rich (Dec 27, 2009)

I always cut a kerf in the backing material to avoid weakening the stud.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I like that, probably the same effort in the end and safer.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

these work great and are firetreated


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I just screw to the studs:blink:


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

packer_rich said:


> I always cut a kerf in the backing material to avoid weakening the stud.


I just set up the table saw with the dado blade, and go for it.


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## 3bar (Jan 14, 2011)

toggle bolts in studs


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Use a screw, if its a really heavy sucker use quarter inch zip toggles.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I never once thought about using a metal stud to hang a cabinet..........


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## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

MLCcarpenter said:


> Install 6" 20 ga backing strips at the top and bottom of cabinet location and use self tapping screws when installing cabinets. You can pick them up at your local drywall supplier.


We did a Ferguson showroom that way. They ran the flat stock to the studs prior to putting the drywall up and it worked great. The sheet rock helps keep the flat stock secure. 15 mock kitchens and solid as a rock.


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## MLCcarpenter (Dec 11, 2011)

Google 'concealed sink carrier' it transfers the weight of the sink to the floor within the wall and is typically used in most commercial sink applications.


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## RareRenovations (May 26, 2012)

I know residential wall hung sinks have a bracket that is lagged into blocking set behind the wall. I don't doubt that this is what was spec.'d for your project, but for in all of my commercial experience, I have never seen a sink, urinal, or wall hung toilet that did not have a concealed carrier anchored to the floor. They are very common for commercial applications in this area including office buildings, schools, hospitals, etc.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

RareRenovations said:


> I know residential wall hung sinks have a bracket that is lagged into blocking set behind the wall. I don't doubt that this is what was spec.'d for your project, but for in all of my commercial experience, I have never seen a sink, urinal, or wall hung toilet that did not have a concealed carrier anchored to the floor. They are very common for commercial applications in this area including office buildings, schools, hospitals, etc.


Yes toilets I would deffinitly agree 100% u need that carrier :laughing:


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## jessrj (Mar 30, 2012)

MitchellInstall said:


> If I have the opportunity, I ask for (and usually get) a plywood hanging rail.
> 
> If I'm coming into it too late to make such requests, then I use fastcap's self-tapping screw and call it a day.
> 
> .


I agree. It's nice to have the backing but you can certainly screw right to the studs. If its a monster upper cabinet then you may need to think about some backing.


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## Winchester (Jun 29, 2008)

GRB said:


> Is the wall open or finished? If open, install solid lumber blocking horizontally between the studs & secure the cabinets to that as you normally would.
> 
> If you have to fasten to the studs, use screws designed specifically for the application. Do not use drywall screws, as they have no tensile strength & may fail in a shear application. BTW - we use trim washers with the above screws for a more finished appearance.


You actually pay _money _for philips drive screws?


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