# Stone post pier details



## UpNorth (May 17, 2007)

Please critique these details for a set of post piers that will support a house-side carport. Three foot frost depth, and roof will extend out over and past the piers.

The structure is shown, also a sample of what the rock finish looks like.


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## concretemasonry (Dec 1, 2006)

Obviously the piers and foundations should be built with 8x8x16 block (no 4x8x16) in running bond and not stack bond. If you use 8x8x16 block for the pier, using block with both ends smooth might be better to work with when the rock veneer is applied.

Any vertical reinforcement planned?

No permit or inspection I assume.


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## UpNorth (May 17, 2007)

Thanks for looking, Dick. 

Pier base changed, as shown. I was thinking of running a #4 rod inside the innermost 4 cores, top to bottom.

And no, there's no inspection here, nor formal plans review. That footing hardly needs the two-way mat of #4 bars, but the note is there just to make our guy think I care.


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## Rockmonster (Nov 15, 2007)

I have used those stone before....the name escapes me, some Penn. river rock I think....You will have much easier time with 6" for veneer....4" will limit your stone choices to small and very small.....and those river rocks are HARD!!! So they are tough to work....I like that drawing, what software is that? Good luck


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## Stewy (Nov 11, 2007)

Have worked on a few stone pillars. We used poured concrete in tubes or drilled holes below ground with 2'x2' pad at surface all reinforced with steel. Above ground lay up 16" square blocks, wall ties at joints, core filled with concrete and steel. Damp proof base, lay up stone then 
top off with formed concrete cap.


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## Captainsls (Nov 8, 2007)

We would either pour the whole footing solid, or this:


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## masonlifer (Jun 10, 2007)

I think the original detail with a 16" x 16" inner core composed of 8"x 8" x 16" cmu wrapped with a 4" stone ledge composed of 4" x 4" x 8" block below grade would be used around here. All blocks grouted solid and ties from 8" cmu to 4"cmu. I would change the bond on the 4" cmu to get rid of that small cut and alternate the 8" cmu to get rid of the stacked bond.


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## 4th generation (Mar 28, 2008)

Try using chimney or pilaster blocks for the top 5 courses ,then run in rebar & corefill. I'd bring the foundation to above grade as well. Are you going to put in saddles to hold the posts ?


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## UpNorth (May 17, 2007)

Our local supplier (and there is only one) stocks chimney block at 18x18. Too big, and more $ than just two common 8x8x16.

The only "commons" being stocked have the open end at one, and the closed corner end at the other, making them "combos."

The yard does stock a block that is a U, 8x8x16, for use in making cored pilasters and cored piers. This would be a good app for that U block.

These piers will get posts of belled end logs. We've no plans review here, and no inspection. Even though we are seismic D1, no one looks at engineering for these. Most builders set the log post on late in the game, using a jack, and relying on a tight fit and gravity. Go figure.


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