# Shoe Molding



## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I need to bevel back bottom side of shoe molding to clear sloppy grout job. Table saw with jig or hand planer with jig. A few hundred feet. Going to measure and get paint sample today. Going to pre paint as well. 


I'm starting to think planer, jig and 16' bench.


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

Router table and a bevel bit?


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Couple horses, 16'- 2x8 ?, few thin strips to trap mldg. fin face down, hand held power planer (3 1/4"? makita etc). Most have a v notch on the back side that will act as a guide for the bevel cut. It should be pretty easy. It don't have to be perfect.

Be sure to save a few uncut ones for door opening clip cuts....otherwise you need to do returns.

The problem with table saw & router is explosions if the material isn't supported well with finger/spring pressure guides.


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## dumbass (Jun 29, 2016)

I made a bevel jig for my planer to do custom transitions.Simple to make from scrap and you can make it any angle you want.Clamp it to the infeed and outfeed tables and rock and roll.Only takes a few minutes to make one up.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Big Shoe said:


> I need to bevel back bottom side of shoe molding to clear sloppy grout job. Table saw with jig or hand planer with jig. A few hundred feet. Going to measure and get paint sample today. Going to pre paint as well.
> 
> 
> I'm starting to think planer, jig and 16' bench.


Assuming you're looking to do this... 








...then just use the table saw (sharp blade)... put the blade at 45 degrees and use a featherboard before the blade to stabilize molding as it goes through and push-stick at end of length to push it through (see image below sans featherboard and push stick)...

You'll be quite happy with how little time it takes... :thumbsup:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Meeting my guys tomorrow about cleaning/acid washing grout/tile prior to shoe molding. Buys me some time. (I'm plenty busy)

I'm going to do a quick table saw test like Kap illustrated. And like Railman said with the planer. The shoe molding is 7/16 x 11/16. 

It's a shame she has this added cost. She is such a nice lady. One of those customers you love to have. :thumbsup:


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Is it really much added cost? I assume you are just meaning the running of the shoe through a tool of some kind? Can't take more than a few minutes once you are set up. I'd just do it and have a happy thankful customer.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## nickko (Nov 11, 2012)

Could you run it on a router table with a straight bit and take a notch out instead of a bevel? Or run it on the table saw with a sacrificial fence and just set your blade height and take a blade thickness notch out. 

nicko


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

nickko said:


> Could you run it on a router table with a straight bit and take a notch out instead of a bevel? Or run it on the table saw with a sacrificial fence and just set your blade height and take a blade thickness notch out.
> 
> nicko


 I was thinking the same thing on the sacrificial fence. I really don't like the set up pictured above with the table saw blade out in the open. The blade needs to stay hidden while cutting.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

The safest way I think is to use a router table with couple feather boards and a chamfer bit.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Railman said:


> I was thinking the same thing on the sacrificial fence. I really don't like the set up pictured above with the table saw blade out in the open. The blade needs to stay hidden while cutting.



I'm one of those dangerous floor guys, but I do it the way kap posted. Set the blade height no higher than necessary. As you said, it don't have to be real accurate.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

VinylHanger said:


> Is it really much added cost? I assume you are just meaning the running of the shoe through a tool of some kind? Can't take more than a few minutes once you are set up. I'd just do it and have a happy thankful customer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


No, added cost of paying to get floor acid washed. Plus me having to run about 400' of shoe molding. 

A few minutes x 25. :whistling


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

I should clarify that the drawing above was a quick 5-10 minute drawing that I did as an example and that the "blade" pictured (because of the program I was using to draw it) when I tried to reduce the "blade" to bring it to proper height, it kept warping the shape (and taking it away from the 45 degree I was tying to show) and also wasn't sure if it would be able to be seen when uploaded...

I didn't think it all that important to keep messing with it, as I was just trying to give an illustration and because I assumed on a contractor site anyone who uses a table saw knows about actual blade height versus material as it relates to cutting wood as well as feed speed to avoid chatter...

There's really no danger involved if you are using a sharp blade, feather-board and push stick for final feed... it's not rocket science or complicated and really quite simple... Like I said, you'll be quite happy how little time it will take... below is a pic of shoe mold showing the actual cut using oak (excuse the blurriness but my cell camera sucks at zoom)...

Big Shoe... let us know how it works out... :thumbsup:


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Big Shoe said:


> No, added cost of paying to get floor acid washed. Plus me having to run about 400' of shoe molding.
> 
> A few minutes x 25. :whistling


Ah, that's different.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

So Big Shoe... what happened?


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## woodyacd (Jul 31, 2016)

y know ,
you could make a type of jig with 2 strips of wood running parallel
just enough a part where the 1/4 round sits in between them , 
lay the 1/4 round upside down( point edge up ).
then run a planer down it.
it`ll ride on those 2 strips of wood.
or you could get 50 grit belt for your sander if thats all you have


the 2 strips of wood would have to be thinner than the 1/4 round ( maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch deep/so as not to get in the way of planning/sanding down that point.

we`ve done this a few times


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

woodyacd said:


> y know ,
> you could make a type of jig with 2 strips of wood running parallel
> just enough a part where the 1/4 round sits in between them ,
> lay the 1/4 round upside down( point edge up ).
> ...


As mentioned in post #3 above...


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Finished up that job yesterday. Grout was a *****. Ended up scraping the grout off with 3/8" chisel and painters tool. 

Used belt sander to knock edge off also where needed. Amazing how useful that tool is. 

Worst tile job I've ever seen. 

Thanks for all your tips. Never got a chance to bevel them first. And the grout was so bad I needed to scrape and clean all the base anyways.


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