# cutting a 3'0" x 6'0" door into CMU wall



## CINEMASUPER (Aug 23, 2009)

I have a couple of doors to cut into an existing CMU
wall filled with concrete and rebar. I have a concrete cutting
company giving me a bid to do the demo. My question
is how hard is it to install a welded frame into a cut
opening of an existing CMU wall? :blink:
Steve


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

You need to get unassembled frames, then it is no problem at all.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Double check the cut out dimensions.:thumbsup:


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

Not hard IF you have the Skill set.

I Have a few questions

What does the Contract State?
Steel Lentil?
Slush (concrete) Frame?
Threshold Prep?
6 Dimpled Welded Frame?


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## cbreeze (May 2, 2007)

Its actually pretty easy. Just make sure you order the frame punched and dimpled. Plumb everything up , drill holes and anchor. We use a 3/8" wedge anchor with a flat head. Is there a bond beam across the top or will you be installing Lentils


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

Don't forget the grout pump.


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## CINEMASUPER (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks guys for all the help. The reason I am
asking is that this job was bid in the spring
and did not start until October. I called the mason
about starting next week on the doors and infilling
a door etc. He informed me he was closing his doors
and would not be able to fulfil his contract.
Of course I am looking for another mason but have
a very tight schedule, so I am preparing for the worst
case scenario, self performing it myself.


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

The door is only 72" high?

Andy.


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## 4th generation (Mar 28, 2008)

Are they hollow metal frames?


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## CINEMASUPER (Aug 23, 2009)

4th generation said:


> Are they hollow metal frames?


Yes


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

ScipioAfricanus said:


> The door is only 72" high?
> 
> Andy.


that's a headache waiting to happen. :sad:


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## 4th generation (Mar 28, 2008)

The steps I take for a single door opening in a standard hollow core block wall are 
- cut door opening slightly larger than frame
- take out one course (or 2 if needed) over the height of the frame and 8" wider on both sides so opening looks like a "T"
- take 2 - 12 or 16 ft planks, at one end of each install nails with heads sticking down about 1" proud and about 2" in from the end 
-tape up the hinge and striker pockets on the inside so as not to let them fill up with grout
- place frame in opening , centre it and place at established floor height 
-put the planks with the nails hooking the top of the door frame one on each end, on the same side, with the bottom of the planks resting on the floor 
- level the door head and plumb the jambs 
-weigh down the planks at the bottom end with 2 blocks running up the planks and put one block underneath (optional)
- make a door spreader slightly larger than the doorframe and the same profile as the jamb out of plywood or some other & lightly wedge it in place, its ok if its on a slight angle 
- start filling the sides from the top down being careful to balance the fill on each side as you fill it up, lightly tapping the frame as you go, also fill the block cores on each side 
- once filled remove planks and fill the head, if door opener is required I will find a small piece of styrofoam and tape into place where the screws will go
-install 2 (or more depending on wall width) lintels back to back ( sometimes bearing plates are required)
- fill in lintels with 4" solid block making sure to solidly grout all around and in behind
-check plumb and level and re-measure frame to make sure it isn't bowing in or out & adjust if needed (no heavy banging)
-fill any holes, do the joints clean up and instal hoarding.
when all is set then you can come back and drill out the dimples and install tapcons (or other) deep enough to catch the blocks on the sides
Yours may be different seeing as it is core filled and re-inforced. If the door comes with sheilds where the dimples are I usually remove them I will also pour some water down the cavity to help flow and minimize flash set. If the the door is going to see very heavy usage then I will fill the sides with concrete mix instead of mortar. Hope this helps


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