# Paper/mudd not sticking to metal bead



## banctecbobn (Dec 30, 2005)

Nailed on the metal corner beading and attached the paper with 90 minute hot mudd. Coated with green lid premix and after a few days the outer edge of mudd/paper is rolling or lifting up. This only happened on two 45 degree corners, the rest of the house is looking good. Any ideas why this happened? Looks like the mudd didn't stick to the metal bead at all.

Also, how do you guys fix a mess like this? Or should I ask, how do you get the mudd and tape off the drywall. I used a 4" grinder and disk to blast thru the tape and mudd (and into the drywall somewhat). Then retaped with just the green lid premix after scratching up the metal bead somewhat.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

I've never applied tape over beading.


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

I have never taped over corner bead either. Nor have I used a grinder on drywall. The holes in the bead are there for the mud to grab onto, if you tape over them, it defeats their purpose.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

If I use metal bead, I always tape the edges with mesh tape and set with hot mud. Really reduces cracks.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> Nor have I used a grinder on drywall


.

Same here. Have had to chisel some out with 5 in 1 though when runinng new rock up to old rock in the corner. Anything to keep the dust down.


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## Aaron111 (Nov 24, 2007)

Try plastic beads no rust and it works better with hot mud


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## dryrocker27 (Dec 2, 2007)

we have not used metal beads for 1 year now
we use No-Coat products exclusively
yes, they cost more, but consider the benifits:
1. no nailing 
2. no clinching
3. no staples
4. applies with joint compound
5. a greenhorn can put them on, making them more productive
6. no edge cracking
7. does not dent if hit by other trades, only a little mud repair
8. very little mud to fill level
9. not as heavy as metal
10. does not ramp up off the drywall causing a bad base trim job.

Try them, you will enjoy them as much as the trim man
your builders will like the fact that you have reduced bead related call-backs


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## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

banctecbobn said:


> Nailed on the metal corner beading and attached the paper with 90 minute hot mudd. Coated with green lid premix and after a few days the outer edge of mudd/paper is rolling or lifting up. This only happened on two 45 degree corners, the rest of the house is looking good. Any ideas why this happened? Looks like the mudd didn't stick to the metal bead at all.
> 
> 
> well you say this only happened to a few beads but the rest of them worked?? i would guess the beads that it didnt stick to might have had some oil on them or something. ive seen metal beads taped alot and it didnt cause any problems sticking to the beads. Id bet anything you had some oil on those two beads.


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## banctecbobn (Dec 30, 2005)

Wow, I thought you had to tape metal corner beading. It won't crack right at the edge of the metal bead?????????? Guess I could of saved myself a heck of a dust storm. Think I'll still stick to taping the beading. 

How do you guys remove mudd and tape from a joint?


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## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

well on commercial it was pretty common to tape beads because of the metal studs the only thing holding the bead was from crimping it so the tape was highly recommended , on wood framing you can staple or nail it and taping them isnt as important. but with the emergence of bead ex i dont think anyones using metal anymore. 
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How do you guys remove mudd and tape from a joint?
i havent done that but id just cut out the lose stuff and repair it.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> How do you guys remove mudd and tape from a joint?


I recently removed mud and tape from the very first patch job I did. This is at my house, and I had been looking at it for years. Man, it was uugly! Not a taper anyway, but man that was some rough patching. "Cobbler's son...." kind of thing. Anyway, I cut some horizonal lines in the mud and scraped it (perpendicular to the lines) off with a 5-in-1.


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## Second Look (Jan 13, 2007)

banctecbobn said:


> Also, how do you guys fix a mess like this?


Have you tried just pulling the corner beads off and starting with a new bead?


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## banctecbobn (Dec 30, 2005)

I'm sure I fixed the problem with the mudd not sticking to the bead, just scratched up the surface and remudded. I was really looking for suggestions on how the best way to remove the old mudd and paper off the drywall.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Bob, did you nail the bead instead of using screws, use Durabond 90 brown bag then hit with your green lid mud, On some of my repairs I have used Plaster corner bead with wire mesh, I would use the plastic bead, with Durabond.


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## GT Drywall (Dec 8, 2007)

Your problem was definately oil on the bead. 
I have no idea why you would want to tape metal corner bead exept to tab the corners where 2 pieces if bead meet. 
I know that if you dont get paid for a job you can go and spray all the bead and drywall seams with pam cooking spray - nothing will stick - lol. Ive seen it done. 

In response to getting the tape off the wall, just make a vertical cut where the tape is and pull it. It should pull the tape off along the whole seam, then sand off the surrounding mud. 

Same as before, when I worked for a company back in high school, the Boss had us leave a 3 inch tab on the bottom of the walls, the corners and the butt-joints, just in-case of non payment. Just grab the tab and pull. 
Easy tape removal all the way up the corner.


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

oldrivers said:


> well on commercial it was pretty common to tape beads because of the metal studs the only thing holding the bead was from crimping it so the tape was highly recommended ,.


I use 1/2 or 5/8" pneumatic stapler all the time on metal stud applications. Works great and is better and faster than crimping. I have had to remove my stapled beads before I mudded them and they are tough to take off. IMO just crimping your beads is a bad idea.


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