# Thin brick application



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Not a bad idea. Not sure how much quicker it would be but it might


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

Fouthgeneration said:


> Most newer brick faux chimneys around here have just doubled up trusses under the chimney pot laid out of regular brick...Building codes actually altered to allow limited Masonry on wood framing.


I was asked to quote one of those last fall with regular modulars full 4". I said no way unless they provided a stamped blue print.

Never heard from the customer again. I can't wait to watch that thing fail. 

I was not overly impressed by the picture of a finished unit. To me the lack of step flashing makes it look naked and the joints don't look tooled. On the corbel top the joints get pretty white, but the distance along with a fuzzy picture might just be me. From the ground it looks great.:laughing:


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## Nick520 (May 2, 2013)

Yeah we'll don't get me wrong I'd prefer to do a true chimney but when given the opportunity to do 100 of these on a project it's tough to walk away. That being one of the first was an experiment of sorts and I'm sure quality will improve. I'm not the architect or engineer gotta do what's gotta be done


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Use of full bed units that start above the rain screen (roof to builders) still require all the wood framing, regular untreated wood, to be protected by the masonry side walls and usually a tin cap.
All the ones I worked on have a tin base with a "top Hat" center that forces all the water out through the base weep holes/ropes. very similiar to a properly flashed double wythe chimney, with wood under the inner wythe tin of course. Think scale model of brick veneered wood basement house...

With adequate structure, the full bed chimney pot ought to go 50 to 100 years.

Direct vents have almost totally eliminated masonry chimneys and roof top pots around here, Most younger Masons have never worked on a new masonry firebox and chimney.

I quit installing roof to chimney step FLASHING 25 years ago, I just saw in at six to eight inches up from the roof angle a piece of fascia, fast and pretty, Step counter flashing under still... Use step flashing only when someone wants the old timey look... which is much weaker in the big wind events for chimneys...

Double wythe chimneys internally, might still need to be stepped and damned... weeps exiting above the roof flashing of course.


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

Since when have chimneys been toppling over in high wind events because of step flashing? 

Must have missed that class...

When you saw the brick, the kerf comes very close the the brick cores if not actually penetrating the cores, which leaves caulking as the last and only line of defense for water penetration. A lot of guys use this method, but I don't and I don't recommend it. 

Everyone has their preferred methods.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Solids above the shingle line....other wise fill every core maybe?

What happens to cored brick when the joints crack???????
It would seem to have very similar issues to step flashing cored brick.

I've relaid two chimneys that blew over, both were flashed all the way to the flue with out any vertical tension elements(no rebar) and just a single course of rise in the flashing, even if the flue coursing had been tweaked so its coursing didn't line up with the flashing, the chimney wouldn't have failed.

I seen movement on chimneys that I leaned on...
Flashing is Good, flashing that causes structural failure, not so good.


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## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

starting a project with 4000 sq ft next week..will post pics..metal backing..caulking...should be a fun first


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