# Laminate floor expansion gaps



## bdoles (Sep 11, 2007)

I'd like to see some pictures of this from someone that has already done it. Personally I cant stand floating laminates. But that's just me. At a minimum I'd do engineered.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Ta2ude said:


> Wow aren't you something. So where do I start with this one?
> So you have experience... what makes you think you have more than me? or that the experience you have makes you any better than me? As far as a "bought certification class" about the only education you don't pay for is public and high school, other than through your taxes that is. It's nice to know your view on educating yourself in your chosen field of work though. I know, you've probably "been doing it this way for years and never had a problem" right?. Now how am I over thinking this?? I am asking a very simple and logical question to try and see if there may be a different and perhaps better solution than "worse case scenario is you have to come back later and install t-molding". That may be the way your experience has taught you to do a job, I guess I just choose to approach it a bit differently.
> 
> Your catch line should read "we do it right the first time....unless we have to come back later and install T-moldings"


Where do you start? How about starting with sharpening your reading comprehension skill set :thumbsup: This thread wasn't about what is text-book correct. This is about what will work. The customer wants something that is technically incorrect but is absolutely possible. If you were as experienced as me (which I didn't say you were, you brought that up) you would know this. 

All I can infer from your post is - apparently you're not because you're arguing with me about something myself and others have in fact, in real life even, done. I don't need your weak attempt at condescension to make me see the light. I install every day. When it comes to laminates I know what works and what doesn't. 

Manufactures and trade associations make installation directions and recommendations all the time that may or may not be "correct" dependent upon the specific situations. Again if you are experienced you would know this. You would also know there are grey areas that pop up from time to time that, while not technically correct will work just fine. This instance is one of them. That doesn't make you a "hack"...it makes you a problem solver.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

bdoles said:


> I'd like to see some pictures of this from someone that has already done it. Personally I cant stand floating laminates. But that's just me. At a minimum I'd do engineered.


Doubt you'll see many. This type of install is usually a small dining room table mat or foyer rug type of deal. I wouldn't do it on something large, but a hundred feet or so it works. A ton of homeowners down here hate transitions and we're asked all the time to eliminate them if possible. Most times it's not.


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## Ta2ude (Jan 22, 2013)

> This thread wasn't about what is text-book correct. This is about what will work.


I don't see any reference any where to any text book, not sure where you came up with this, but you do seem to have an aversion to any type of education other than your own hands on experience.




> The customer wants something that is technically incorrect but is absolutely possible.


It's possible to install it completely tight as well with absolutely no caulk doesn't mean it's the smart or right thing to do.



> I'm speaking from experience here, not what is taught at a bought certification class.





> If you were as experienced as me (which I didn't say you were, you brought that up) you would know this.


You brought up the experience thing not me, I just said you had no idea of my experience, and you still don't because you can't get over yourself long enough to even pose the question.



> All I can infer from your post is - apparently you're not because you're arguing with me about something myself and others have in fact, in real life even, done. I don't need your weak attempt at condescension to make me see the light. I install every day. When it comes to laminates I know what works and what doesn't.


I am sure you have done it this way, and I'm the guy they have come in and replace it. But since you know so much about what works and what doesn't, why don't you enlighten me as to when your solution to this type of install won't work. Is it at 130 sqft , 140 sqft or is 187 sqft the magic number? So the caulk fills the gap but what are you going to do about the saw cut edges of the laminate, aren't they going to chip and flake over time. 



> Manufactures and trade associations make installation directions and recommendations all the time that may or may not be "correct" dependent upon the specific situations. Again if you are experienced you would know this. You would also know there are grey areas that pop up from time to time that, while not technically correct will work just fine. This instance is one of them. That doesn't make you a "hack"...it makes you a problem solver.


This is the one I like the most it's priceless, thanks for the laughs. Help me get this straight though because I have weak reading comprehension skills. I read that not only are you above educating yourself, you also believe you should disregard following manufacturers instructions whenever you believe your specific situation warrants. I would love to be in the courtroom the day you use that defense.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Use glue down engineered flooring


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## adamsb (Aug 25, 2005)

PrecisionFloors said:


> I don't care how much you type it out on a keyboard, it just ain't true sport. If the substrate is flat it ain't gonna move up and down when stepped on. Prep your floors right and you won't see this unless the underlayment is not dense enough, in which case it is wrong.


Whatever dude, I could see you floating and grinding for a little 100 sq. ft. of laminate. Your prep bill would cost more than your install bill. Lol. Plus, if you float, then the laminate may end up higher than the tile so I doubt if you could do a lot of prep on a small inlay. You can do that kind of jack leg work and they can pay folks like me to come fix it. And yes, it would still flap ip and down when stepped on and off if its not held down with T- mold. You can't just stop it and walk away.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

adams said:


> Whatever dude, I could see you floating and grinding for a little 100 sq. ft. of laminate. Your prep bill would cost more than your install bill. Lol. Plus, if you float, then the laminate may end up higher than the tile so I doubt if you could do a lot of prep on a small inlay. You can do that kind of jack leg work and they can pay folks like me to come fix it. And yes, it would still flap ip and down when stepped on and off if its not held down with T- mold. You can't just stop it and walk away.


You obviously know little, or are not very good at floor prep. I'm done arguing with you guys. Whatever makes you feel good. The original post asked if something could be done successfully. It can. Period. I give less than a **** what a couple of internet jockey's opinions are.


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## Ta2ude (Jan 22, 2013)

> Precision Flooring
> (772) 237-9900
> Tile, Hardwood, Laminate, and Resilient
> Installation, Sales & Repair - "We do it right the FIRST time"


"Unless we have to come back later and install T-molds"


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## adamsb (Aug 25, 2005)

Dude, why are we even arguing about this. Come on, it will not work, don't waste your time trying. Like I said, do it right or glue some engineered junk down. This other advisor is a joke! Now I don't know anything about floor prep after all this time. Let me see, is my mixing drill the wrong brand or what??


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## adamsb (Aug 25, 2005)

Coming back later to install T-molds which means the laminate has to be cut back about an inch. Damn, there goes a few hours, a new Saw blade, dusting out the place, a Fein tool blade. Yeah, I'm pretty sure he would show up for this one.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

adams said:


> Coming back later to install T-molds which means the laminate has to be cut back about an inch. Damn, there goes a few hours, a new Saw blade, dusting out the place, a Fein tool blade. Yeah, I'm pretty sure he would show up for this one.


You're showing your ignorance. Again. To cut back a 10x10 and install moldings would take me literally less than an hour and be dustless to boot. I own a track saw and a dust extractor dip****, just because you don't own the equipment to do something the easy way doesn't mean everyone else doesn't either. Again, if you would have read and actually comprehended my post above you would know it would have been the customer's choice from the very beginning. Some people have an aversion to transition moldings and would like to avoid them if possible. I would give them that option provided they understand it may not work - if so I would also give them the course of action, i.e. install t-mold at a later date. 

What you two imbeciles fail to understand is this was an optional thing from the very beginning. Instead you're superiority complex took over, and in a rush to make someone out to be a hack and make yourself feel good you failed to read and understand the complete discussion that was taking place here. Your lack of ability to understand a simple thing is staggering.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Ta2ude said:


> "Unless we have to come back later and install T-molds"


I have tried to stay out of this one, but he has a point. Why would you do it if there was a chance that you would have to come back and install t-moldings? That seems to fly in the face of your motto.


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

My first inclination was the T-mold, but it sounds as though the OP was opposed to that. :whistling

it was caulking between laminate and tile...caulking....
floor compression...

...I'm exhausted.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

This got ugly fast.

I could see how this could work. Limit the up/down movement by a very flat floor and a stiffer,less compressive underlayment for the laminate. A silicone caulk for it's strength and flexibility. Sealing the laminate edges might be a good idea, too.

Would an engineered floor be better between the tile. Sure but it might not be what the owner wants. Maybe they want to match existing flooring.

Regarding a "T" moulding. If you warn the homeowner that what they are trying to accomplish might not work but you would have an alternative method to achieve their design. Then it's the owners call. It's their house and they live with it. 

I don't see this as hack. If you aren't experienced or comfortable with the method then use another method.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I have tried to stay out of this one, but he has a point. Why would you do it if there was a chance that you would have to come back and install t-moldings? That seems to fly in the face of your motto.


Because as stated above, in a specific situation, it is an option. This has gotten out of hand. This is not a hard concept to grasp it really isn't.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

tenon0774 said:


> My first inclination was the T-mold, but it sounds as though the OP was opposed to that. :whistling
> 
> it was caulking between laminate and tile...caulking....
> floor compression...
> ...


Of course the first choice is t-mold. No one ever said anything different. This is about options. As far as silicone and floor compression - what do you think the manufacturers tell you to fill the gap with in a wet area??


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Because as stated above, in a specific situation, it is an option. This has gotten out of hand. This is not a hard concept to grasp it really isn't.


Relax, it was a legit question. I didn't make up your answer or your motto. Either the method is a good method or it isn't. If it's the right way to do it, then there will never be the need for t-moldings.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Of course the first choice is t-mold. No one ever said anything different. This is about options. As far as silicone and floor compression - what do you think the manufacturers tell you to fill the gap with in a wet area??


But you have to agree that filling a gap and installing it on all four sides is different?


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Because as stated above, in a specific situation, it is an option. This has gotten out of hand. This is not a hard concept to grasp it really isn't.


How dare you think think outside the box. Shame on you.:whistling


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Relax, it was a legit question. I didn't make up your answer or your motto. Either the method is a good method or it isn't. If it's the right way to do it, then there will never be the need for t-moldings.


I'm relaxed, I wasn't directing the second part of my post at you - apologies.


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