# Wirelath



## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

I have 2" of built up flooring (all old stable strip oak), now I have to go on top of it with ceramic, I cannot build up to much because I need to be handicap accessible at the entrance door (it's a steel store front door).
I am already flush with the slab outside of the door (public side) with my built up wood floor (which cannot be removed) so I am thinking of installing self furring lath with a rich Portland cement mixture with additive as a scratch coat then standard tile setting procedure. 
What are you thoughts


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

Oh the area I'm working in is 12'by45'


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

2" strip oak? Is it unfinished?


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Robert carozza said:


> What are you thoughts


I'm going to have to do the same thing in the future, but with stone.
I'm taking it down to the joists.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Yeah, you may want to look into going to the joists or subfloor so you can get some plywood and a thin membrane like the Noble TS in there. I don't think a Jersey mud job is going to work all that well...


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

Tech Dawg said:


> 2" strip oak? Is it unfinished?


Yes, 
it's a double layer 1 is a sub. It's an old place


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

CO762 said:


> I'm going to have to do the same thing in the future, but with stone.
> I'm taking it down to the joists.


Client is renting the space so he is not going for that kind of money to rip it down to the bones.


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

Tech Dawg said:


> Yeah, you may want to look into going to the joists or subfloor so you can get some plywood and a thin membrane like the Noble TS in there. I don't think a Jersey mud job is going to work all that well...


There is no ply sub, it's an old building they used hrdwd strip flooring s a sub


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

My pops used this wire lath method and never had problems, so I think I'm gonna do the same.
Thanks guys for you input! &#55357;&#56835;


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## HS345 (Jan 20, 2008)

Robert carozza said:


> My pops used this wire lath method and never had problems, so I think I'm gonna do the same.
> Thanks guys for you input! ��


If you're going ahead with this method, in addition to the rich sand/portland mixture, I would use an admix.  How thick will the mortar bed be? Why self furring lath? How do you plan to fasten the lath?

Inquiring mimes want to know. :laughing:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Robert carozza said:


> Yes,
> it's a double layer 1 is a sub. It's an old place


You think your friend is cheap, I'm doing it and going to keep the wood.

I had someone wanting me to do a quickie floor for them, but I figured out they were renting the place, so I told them I'd need to talk to the owner to get the OK, thinking the owner would want to spend a little more money and have it done right. They never got back with me....


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Have you looked into the self adhering products like the Mapei Sound and Crack Isolation?

Diamond lath over a wooden substrate is technically suppose to be in the 1 1/2" thickness. Over a sound floor and with premium setting materials I have gone lower.

This route you are planning on taking will take you outside industry standards. You will own th install.

What is the deflection of the current floor? An L/720 should be met if your going low low with your build up.










The use of the building paper is a slip joint so the Screed Mortar does not bite to the plywood. I used roofing nails everywhere to fasten the lath to the floor. Loose nails keep my lath in the middle of the screed mortar. I used 1 1/2" roofing nails and these just miss the joist tops. A second sheet of lath was installed with the screed mortar.

These "Old School" setting methods your daddy taught you are hard to regulate. All setting materials will default to thicker lifts to protect themselves and the clients.

This job went from 1/2" to 1". Roofing nails place on 6" centers.

This install falls outside recommended procedures.

I tested it to see if it set up properly.






JW


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

HS345 said:


> If you're going ahead with this method, in addition to the rich sand/portland mixture, I would use an admix.  How thick will the mortar bed be? Why self furring lath? How do you plan to fasten the lath?
> 
> Inquiring mimes want to know. :laughing:


Yes I am going to use an admix, 1/4" self furring lath, 1"&1/2 roofing nail, about 3/8" bed


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

CO762 said:


> You think your friend is cheap, I'm doing it and going to keep the wood.
> 
> I had someone wanting me to do a quickie floor for them, but I figured out they were renting the place, so I told them I'd need to talk to the owner to get the OK, thinking the owner would want to spend a little more money and have it done right. They never got back with me....


So what are u saying


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Robert carozza said:


> Yes I am going to use an admix, 1/4" self furring lath, 1"&1/2 roofing nail, about 3/8" bed


For all that you could install a 3/8" 7ply underlayment with Noble membrane and be tiling by lunch :whistling: use a single hollywood bevel strip at the door


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## tang (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm sayin pull the floor! Add ply and a crack isolaion membrain. TS or Ditra. Beats a Jersey mud job all day long!!


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

There are solutions to your situation but none of them are going to be as easy as your suggestion. Problem is, your suggestion has fail written on it.

Good ole dad might have used that method for years but the simple fact is that method is not endorsed by the TCNA for a reason; it's prone to failure. 

You are getting great alternative advice but it seems like you were just looking someone to give you thumbs up to your method. I don't think that's gonna happen. 

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

angus242 said:


> There are solutions to your situation but none of them are going to be as easy as your suggestion. Problem is, your suggestion has fail written on it.
> 
> Good ole dad might have used that method for years but the simple fact is that method is not endorsed by the TCNA for a reason; it's prone to failure.
> 
> ...


Thanks for wishing me luck but i was Actually looking for someone with experience not just text book knowledge and FYI my "good ole dad's" floor haven't moved or cracked in about 30yrs so you should choose your words more carefully Your tcna can kiss my ass, 
I've worked with great mechanics with minimal materials and superior workmanship and I've seen a lot of so called pro's with their state of the art this n that and bogus workman ship I guess there"s an ass for every seat


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## Robert carozza (Jan 3, 2011)

Robert carozza said:


> Thanks for wishing me luck but i was Actually looking for someone with experience not just text book knowledge and FYI my "good ole dad's" floor haven't moved or cracked in about 30yrs so you should choose your words more carefully Your tcna can kiss my ass,
> I've worked with great mechanics with minimal materials and superior workmanship and I've seen a lot of so called pro's with their state of the art this n that and bogus workman ship I guess there"s an ass for every seat


I meant "floors" there where quite a few


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Well that was fun. Nothing like stopping by for free advice, getting some, ignoring it and then attempting to insult those who gave the advice.

I still wish you luck. And yes, I chose that word wisely :thumbsup:


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