# Thin Brick & Thin Stone Masonry



## dklany (Feb 18, 2017)

Has anyone worked with Glen Gery "Thin Brick"? How much square footage can I expect my masons to lay of the "Thin Brick" every day?

Thank you.


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## Deckhead (Dec 9, 2010)

Do you want a blanket bullchit statement or real one?


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## dklany (Feb 18, 2017)

I wouldn't waste your time (or anyone else's) if I wanted anything bullchit. I want to know what workload I can expect and then cover myself in case things slow down. I also want to know if there are any unforeseen issues with "Thin Brick" - it all seems pretty straight forward but sometimes there are problems that are unforeseen (is the thin-brick particularly fragile? should I expect breakage?)..

Thanks for your time. I appreciate it.


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## Windycity (Oct 3, 2015)

*Thin Brick &amp; Thin Stone Masonry*



dklany said:


> I wouldn't waste your time (or anyone else's) if I wanted anything bullchit. I want to know what workload I can expect and then cover myself in case things slow down. I also want to know if there are any unforeseen issues with "Thin Brick" - it all seems pretty straight forward but sometimes there are problems that are unforeseen (is the thin-brick particularly fragile? should I expect breakage?)..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time. I appreciate it.




There is alot of variables to your question.. i use glen gary thinbricks all the time. Thin bricks installed with lath wire is crazy strong, like I hate tearing it out and find real bricks easier to demo. 

I struggled installing thin bricks and stone at first thinking it was like real bricks but once I figured it out i can fly with them now. 

I cant give you a sq ft per day though..i dont do any large jobs i just know what i can and cant do in a day.. recently i did a 5 ft wide by 11 ft high wall and was comfortably done by noon. All of the prep was done the day before, plywood, wire, scratch coat so i just had to lay bricks 



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## MikeFL (Oct 7, 2016)

It's going to be like any other veneer. The more cut up the job the longer it's going to take. Filling in the field is the quick part.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Im slow with thin brick, dunno how people make money with it, its dumb, that is all.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I look at it as tilework...although I don't do much of it, I have made some good money with it.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

My experience with thin brick is its more labor then full bed masonry, but if you need something very light weight or just faux brick, it will last a long time in doors, and decades out of doors with proper back up and detailing.... 

Thin brick outside just shouts piss poor planning by the owners/ and designer IMO....

Forget the structure needed for masonry that lasts hundreds of years, go to thin brick....

Sadly most thin bricks are way over cooked, "glassy" and require special measures to keep them from sagging... 

If your using "durarock" type backer board, leave the more porous side exposed. or wash with a strong acid to create some bond pockets...

Keep the material BONE dry and warm if possible. if using glues, buy the correct ones, Don't cheap out with glues that out gas and blow the thin brick off a few moments after you attach them....

To maintain illusions of real brick you need to get involved with the dimensioning of any 3 dimensional uses to maintain bonds and minimize cutting and wonder bonds early in the design process.

laser beams and a lot of chalk lines...

Bid very high, or buy the exact products and build a sample panel that matches the installation... for a closer #

Colored mortars will cock block using strong acids to clean smears....

Have MORE lighting when laying & grouting then the owner will install to save a lot of cleaning and tear outs...:thumbup:

Tile mechanics and Caulkers & pointers can be very productive help here. if needed.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

It's hard to put actual production numbers out there for thin brick, as the prep takes almost as long as the brick and grouting. We've used the Glen Gary (Robinsons) for probably close to 15 years, they're a good product with minimal waste.

We almost always lay them on CBU, as mesh & plaster gets far too wavy for my liking. On exterior systems, we use the MVIS system: 2 coats of air & water barrier, MVIS bonding mortar (like thinset) and usually our own pointing mortar. On interiors, we usually use the same MVIS bonding mortar.

It's a little bit different skill set than full veneer, but if you'd laid thin stone, you'll enjoy laying thin brick.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

What do you all use for either spacers or to keep them perfectly straight?


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## Windycity (Oct 3, 2015)

JBM said:


> What do you all use for either spacers or to keep them perfectly straight?




Before i start i layout the courses and take a level and draw level lines on the scratch coat....i use a wet mortar and lightly butter the back of the brick or stone and shimmy it on...it sticks right on no spacer needed 

Key is to make sure to damp the cured scratch coat with water other wise the bricks wont bond to it


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

Mortar to scratch coat, no problem, as Windycity noted. They're light enough with enough bonding surface that they don't tend to creep.

With the durock/thin-set or MVIS mortar that I typically use, you have mix the mortar a little tighter to keep them from sliding. We usually scratch the durock ahead with a notch trowel as well, which I think helps with the "creep".

Most of the thin brick we lay are tumbled or reclaimed, so the owner is going for a rustic look anyways. I usually sight courses by eye and check them regularly with a level.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

Two crappy phone pics of a Cream City (sawed thin) fireplace we did a few weeks ago:


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