# Hanging 8 ft 1 inch walls



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

donerightwyo said:


> This is why I love Griz:clap::thumbup:. He could of closed the thread, but no, he gives the OP the benifit of the doubt and lets everybody have a chance to give an intelligent response.:thumbup::laughing:


Griz has stopped a few of my run-away-fun-trains...but he's good at letting squeeze a few laughs out first. :thumbup:


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

rjconstructs said:


> dw85 your trade is drywall?


Even most DIY'ers know to leave a gap at the floor. :laughing: 

Obviously he doesn't, which means he can't be a real a drywall contractor. :whistling


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

donerightwyo said:


> This is why I love Griz:clap::thumbup:. He could of closed the thread, but no, he gives the OP the benifit of the doubt and lets everybody have a chance to give an intelligent response.:thumbup::laughing:


Yup.... griz can be pretty funny sometimes. His first post in the thread was CLASSIC.


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## Sar-Con (Jun 23, 2010)

Jim875 said:


> I have a related question, because we're working on a job with sheet rock too, which they're putting on new on the ceiling (8'7"). I'm in charge of the electrical - I'm a electrical contractor. New recessed cans. Is it better to put the light bulbs in the recessed cans before or after putting the cans in the ceiling? There will be some soffits at 8'4", so I'm trying to include that in my calculations. I realize that's an unorthodox height, so I'm wondering if we put the bulbs in later, is it better to use a ladder or one of those long sticks with a suction cup that holds the bulbs? Which is faster? I'm a little worried that the some of the bulbs might get broken by the suction cup.
> 
> I might also be doing the painting - it's really my main business. My question is this: is it worth having them use that shaker thing at the store, or if I'm in a hurry is it OK just to put them in the back of my truck and drive fast over some speed bumps on the way to the job?
> 
> ...


I like the new guy already:laughing:


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Jim875 said:


> I have a related question, because we're working on a job with sheet rock too, which they're putting on new on the ceiling (8'7"). I'm in charge of the electrical - I'm a electrical contractor. New recessed cans. Is it better to put the light bulbs in the recessed cans before or after putting the cans in the ceiling? There will be some soffits at 8'4", so I'm trying to include that in my calculations. I realize that's an unorthodox height, so I'm wondering if we put the bulbs in later, is it better to use a ladder or one of those long sticks with a suction cup that holds the bulbs? Which is faster? I'm a little worried that the some of the bulbs might get broken by the suction cup.
> 
> I might also be doing the painting - it's really my main business. My question is this: is it worth having them use that shaker thing at the store, or if I'm in a hurry is it OK just to put them in the back of my truck and drive fast over some speed bumps on the way to the job?
> 
> ...


Do you do windows and siding by any chance?


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

Nobody thinks Jim is a new handle for an existing member to troll with?:blink:


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## TAHomeRepairs (Jun 18, 2012)

EthanB said:


> Nobody thinks Jim is a new handle for an existing member to troll with?:blink:


No..he's my sub. M,E,&P. He's one handy dude!


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## nicktools561 (May 29, 2013)

Yeah I am not 100% sure but it sounds like you are just hanging drywall. If that is then case the start with the ceiling afterwards proceed with the walls. Any gaps at the top can be covered by crown modeling and base boards will cover the bottom gap. When if comes to seams between the drywall, all you have to do is use tape and joint compound. Sand and reapply as needed. Then you should be ready to go for ceiling texture followed by paint. I hope this helps you in your home project!!!


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

EthanB said:


> Nobody thinks Jim is a new handle for an existing member to troll with?:blink:


Without a doubt, it _was_. :whistling


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

nicktools561 said:


> Yeah I am not 100% sure but it sounds like you are just hanging drywall. If that is then case the start with the ceiling afterwards proceed with the walls. Any gaps at the top can be covered by crown modeling and base boards will cover the bottom gap. When if comes to seams between the drywall, all you have to do is use tape and joint compound. Sand and reapply as needed. Then you should be ready to go for ceiling texture followed by paint. I hope this helps you in your home project!!!


That's a brilliant suggestion but it would be a code violation here, even behind the crown you have to tape that gap.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Inner10 said:


> That's a brilliant suggestion but it would be a code violation here, even behind the crown you have to tape that gap.


Yep, here to.


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## steex (Feb 19, 2013)




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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> Without a doubt, it _was_. :whistling


Probably just one post and gone.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Probably just one post and gone.


Hopefully :laughing:


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Probably just one post and gone.


Bob:

If this thread disappears suddenly, it wasn't moved to the Hard Hat area.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Warren said:


> Bob:
> 
> If this thread disappears suddenly, it wasn't moved to the Hard Hat area.


Sleep with one eye open.......you have betrayed the brother hood..:jester::laughing:


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

Warren said:


> Bob:
> 
> If this thread disappears suddenly, it wasn't moved to the Hard Hat area.


Whats the Hard Hat area:blink:


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

CrpntrFrk said:


> Sleep with one eye open.......you have betrayed the brother hood..:jester::laughing:


Mea culpa. I'm not sure how serious you are, though I know that I did upset one or two folks. I don't think I betrayed anyone - I wrote what I thought was a funny spoof, silly enough not to fool anyone, therefore not to be confused with trolling. I've always suspected that many of the one-post-and-out folks were members trolling.

I didn't do anything to cover my tracks, and don't feel the need now, obviously. For better or worse, I am who I am.

I did feel like venting, in a manner that I wouldn't be comfortable leaving as an early search result on Google. I generally go by my real name on-line, and this was an exception.

So, enough with excuses. I apologize for treating the forum disrespectfully; I'll just focus on trade and business questions for a while and let the silliness go. I am chastened.

- Bob


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## donerightwyo (Oct 10, 2011)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Mea culpa. I'm not sure how serious you are, though I know that I did upset one or two folks. I don't think I betrayed anyone - I wrote what I thought was a funny spoof, silly enough not to fool anyone, therefore not to be confused with trolling. I've always suspected that many of the one-post-and-out folks were members trolling.
> 
> I didn't do anything to cover my tracks, and don't feel the need now, obviously. For better or worse, I am who I am.
> 
> ...


I think they should give you a friggin medal:clap: That was some funny chit.:laughing:


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Bob - for what it's worth, I have always seen you display professionalism in posting. The fact that you use your real name, company name and location speaks volumes as well. :thumbsup:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Tinstaafl said:


> Without a doubt, it _was_. :whistling


Was:blink:



donerightwyo said:


> Whats the Hard Hat area:blink:


I have no idea:blink:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

CarpenterSFO said:


> Mea culpa. I'm not sure how serious you are, though I know that I did upset one or two folks. I don't think I betrayed anyone - I wrote what I thought was a funny spoof, silly enough not to fool anyone, therefore not to be confused with trolling. I've always suspected that many of the one-post-and-out folks were members trolling.
> 
> I didn't do anything to cover my tracks, and don't feel the need now, obviously. For better or worse, I am who I am.
> 
> ...


You all good in my book Bob!:thumbsup: Wasn't toward you and it is all in good fun. Carry on.......:clap:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

EricBrancard said:


> Bob - for what it's worth, I have always seen you display professionalism in posting. The fact that you use your real name, company name and location speaks volumes as well. :thumbsup:


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## GCTony (Oct 26, 2012)

Ya all are too quick. My reply to the OP wasz going to be. Leave a 1" gap between the two wall boards, the tape is 2'' wide, it'll cover.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Any walls 8'-2" to 8'-11" range you might consider 9' sheets and do stand ups if your running machine tools its not that much more work to tape out.:whistling


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## endo_alley (Apr 9, 2013)

If you need to fill in anywhere from 1-4 inches I would (horizontally) hang the top sheet tight to the ceiling. Hang the bottom sheet just off the floor enough that it doesn't grab any dirt or debris. (Cleats of 5/8" sheetrock at the floor will do, removed after fastening sheet) Of course use a factory edge for the joint between the top and bottom sheets. Then use a ripper of the next size thinner sheetrock to fill the gap. With 5/8" rock use a ripper of 1/2 sheetrock". For 1/2 rock use a ripper of 3/8" . The ripper will line up with the factory edge and finish nicely.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Just throw handfuls of 20 minute at the studs until your reach desired thickness.


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## Mountain Man (Jun 3, 2013)

endo_alley said:


> If you need to fill in anywhere from 1-4 inches I would (horizontally) hang the top sheet tight to the ceiling. Hang the bottom sheet just off the floor enough that it doesn't grab any dirt or debris. (Cleats of 5/8" sheetrock at the floor will do, removed after fastening sheet) Of course use a factory edge for the joint between the top and bottom sheets. Then use a ripper of the next size thinner sheetrock to fill the gap. With 5/8" rock use a ripper of 1/2 sheetrock". For 1/2 rock use a ripper of 3/8" . The ripper will line up with the factory edge and finish nicely.


Hey endo I noticed in one of your posts that you were in western colorado?? Where at?? I'm out of Cortez!


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