# Router Table base cabinet.



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

hey guys, 

I'm building a base cabinet for my router table top. I ordered everything but the base. 

I plan on building it out of 3/4 finish ply, just looking for some advice from someone that has built one before, like what kind of feet to put on it.

I plan on having the table in the trailer most of the time. but I think it would be better to have something adjustable on the bottom instead of just plywood base against the floor. 

What is a good brand of adjustable (screw up/down?)feet?

I got the solid phenolic woodpeckers table today and it's a really sturdy solid surface, should stay stable and flat for a long time.


----------



## A. Spruce (Aug 6, 2010)

You can never have too much storage and you can never have too much space around the router for changing bits, adjustments, etc. I recommend a minimum of 6" of clearance around the router inside the cabinet. You may want to think about dust collection, which means a vacuum port on the back or side of the cabinet and a relatively air tight door. The more air pulled around the router base, the better the chips will clear.

If the cabinet will be removable from the trailer, I'd suggest castered wheels with two of those casters having locks. The footprint of the cabinet should be small enough that an uneven floor either in the trailer or on the jobsite shouldn't be a problem. If it is, just toss a shim under one of the casters will take care of any wobble.

I would recommend a series of shallow drawers that are about 1" - 2" deeper than the tallest bit that will be in it. Cut a 1" - 1-1/2" thick board that will fit in the bottom of the drawer and drill holes that are the same size as the shanks on the bits for storing the bits safely.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

yeah. im going to have dust collecting using the SUPER fence from woodpeckers plus a second hose hooked up under the cabinet to the Triton router's dust port.
I was going to make the front a cabinet face with a single door (maybe two doors) and then a fixed shelf towards the bottom that closes off the top area to the bottom area, and then below that fixed shelf is a few slide out drawers to house bits and other tools. The router wrench and misc tools will be stored on the base too. 

I bought a kreg multpurpose router switch that will get mounted on the left side and that can have two tools plugged into it, so the vac will turn on at the same time.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

I would skip the ply and go for MDF and not the UL MDF. The weight and density of the MDF will help absorb vibration and cut down on chatter. Weight is your friend with that.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

TBF, I don't need the table top. I bought a nice woodpeckers solid phenolic top already for a plate and tracks. it was worth it, when you see how sturdy this thing is. 

I assume you were saying MDF for laminating the top right? I think for weight , the 3/4 ply would be better, since it's going in the trailer and it's already weighted down.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

I would try something other than a permanent base. That thing could end up some pretty good weight. I got my table finished yesterday and gave it a quick try just sitting on some saw horses. Worked really well and I was able to quickly set it up. Gonna be even faster once I get the mft to put it in. If you was leaving it in a shop then I would say a nice base would be good.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

I'm not sure how to keep it in the trailer if it's not on a fixed base. The router top is doing to be fastened with short L brackets to the base I build. The phenolic has pre-tapped holes and came with screws for use with woodpeckers metal stand. I don't like this because it doesn't have storage and it's all open under there. 

I don't really plan on having this out of the trailer. I don't run trim every day, nor do I make custom mouldings everyday. I just want it for when I need it. I can run some out at home this way since the trailer doesn't go on the smaller jobs. 

The base cabinet shouldn't be more than 30 inches wide, since the top is 32x24. I'm sure I can move it on the trailer floor alone and two of us can lift it out if we ever need to take it inside an addition or something we are working on. I don't see that happening often though. The trailer has a front ramp and back ramp, I can run long or short material right through on the passenger side of the trailer which is where the table is going.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

get a 30" sink base or something.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

I just tore out a kitchen but someone else took the cabinets. the sink base was 36" and not in the best of shape. I wanted a solid built one with pocket screws all over so it holds together going down the road in the trailer where things can get bouncy sometimes.

It won't take too long to build with the kreg pocket screws. one sheet of 3/4 ply should enough


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I think I would like some drawers in it to store all the parts and pieces.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

yeah. i mentioned that. I plan to have at least one larger drawer, maybe two thinner ones at the bottom. the router hanging down plus the toe kick at the bottom does take up some space vertically in the cabinet so I may only have space for one larger drawer. That should hold a lot of bits. it really doesn't even need to be a drawer, just a piece of 3/4 ply with solid wood edges and attach the drawer glides to that. put that below the fixed shelve in the center. I could drill 1/2" and 1/4" holes in the slab to store the bits, no real traditional DRAWER is necessary for the bits, maybe accessories may get a deep regular drawer if there is room.

I'll take pics as I build it. I may work on it this week. I'm just waiting for my new router plate to come in, since they sent me the wrong plate initially,


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Get some open cell high density foam stuff.

use a plug cutter and cut the holes for bits.

the stay nice and snug and the foam is gentle on them as well.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

does festool make a plug cutter?


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

ApgarNJ said:


> does festool make a plug cutter?


I don't think so.:whistling

The make a nice self centering bit thingy.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

No, I was talking for your base....The MDF base will also help to absorb the vibrations...might muffle some sound as well? Did you look at the set-ups on Plansnow.com?


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

how do you think MDF is going to hold up being screwed/glued together in a trailer that moves, and bounces around sometimes. I'm thinking long term here, is it going to have to be rebuilt in a few years. if want moisture ever does get to it, MDF isn't going to fair as well as real plywood. I think maybe something to isolate the vibration if it's a problem between the base and the phenolic top might be in order. 

I've never been a big fan of MDF and have limited use with it. just the way things have panned out. Most of my projects never have me working with it.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

MDF is a good product...but it doesn't work that well when end screwed and what not. Build a frame and cover it with MDF. MDF will be fine with the moisture unless you plan on leaving this thing out in the rail all the time. MDF doesn't just turn to dust went it gets wet. I am not trying to isolate the vibration to the top....I am trying to help take the vibration FROM it and absorb it. Same theory in Cast Iron wood working tools...weight absorbs the vibrations.

I get a feeling your very closed minded about this material. Its just like anything else....its different, so treat it that way. Look at its strengths and weaknesses...and you can find ways to overcome the weaknesses and cash in on the strengths....

Trying to work with MDF the same as ply is like trying to make finish cuts with a saw-z-all and calling it junk.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

MDO would work great.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

Same concept.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

I may line the inside of the cabinet with MDF then, but make main cabinet ply for strength so the screws hold it better. i can see screws pulling out of MDF over time going down the road hundreds of miles. 

i'm not closed minded, just need to do this right the first time and not remake it.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

If I was you.... I would be building this....
http://www.plansnow.com/dn3105.html

But shortened a bit to accept these
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21981


I am currently debating going that route...or just buying a used 1 1/2hp shaper


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

I've thought about casters and wheels to get it in/out of the trailer or move around if it was setup inside a house. I was concerned with it not being secure enough when running material through, since the wheels swivel even when they are locked tight. 

that is a nice cabinet almost looks like they bought the two side cabinets and center drawers and just screwed it altogether. I'm thinking of something faster and more basic. I am limited with my project time here at the house. I really want a shop so I could just go out there at night and work on these projects. someday i'll have a pole barn.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Except MDO is what they use for street signs. Made for the weather.


----------



## Aaron Berk (Jul 10, 2010)

Just use double locking casters.

They lock the rotation, and swivel of the caster.

Google it, there's tons of em out there


----------



## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

I like the One Norm Built on The New Yankee Workshop.

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0301


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

that one norm built is nice for a shop. i need the drawers to be behind a locking door so they don't slide open while moving. i don't want to have to lock each and every one of those drawers if i built it just like that, plus that is a lot more time consuming. I do like the plexi hinged door though. I want to run my dust collection out the right side, because that is where the vac will be and I can get it tight to wall of the trailer.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Here's my attempt at a router top to go into my MFT3. Gave it a quick try out and the dust extraction was very good and that was with just the small festool hose laying in the extraction port.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I just bought a 3 hp shaper.

screw you festool and your cms thingy.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

are you going to extend your fences a little more? I really am impressed with the super fence from woodpeckers. worth every penny. I just need some MDF sac fences. I plan on building my cabinet next weekend, I should have all the parts by then. just waiting on the new router plate from woodpeckers. They really sell quality in their tools.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

ApgarNJ said:


> are you going to extend your fences a little more? I really am impressed with the super fence from woodpeckers. worth every penny. I just need some MDF sac fences. I plan on building my cabinet next weekend, I should have all the parts by then. just waiting on the new router plate from woodpeckers. They really sell quality in their tools.


Yep thy are the standard fences. I will prob make some longer ones but not sure what the best material would be. Maybe some mdf with the kreg channel recessed into it. They have the woodpeckers lifts in stock at our woodcraft. They look like nice kit.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

you could have gotten the whole freud dust port, fence etc. might be nice to have a track for a vertical featherboard. super fence came with that and I think it's a nice addition as you really want to keep that material stable and down tight. 

i found some nice wheels that are 3" high, will keep my from doing a built in toe kick. whole base can be one width now.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

woodpeckers lift was nice but that meant spending another 300 plus dollars and I already spent enough since I got a big router to go in this full time. the triton router has a crank handle that you drill a hole for and you adjust the height from up top. no need for a lift. saves you a bunch.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

You will want casters/wheels that are larger then 3". That size will catch on every little freaking bump and extention cord...it will drive you nutz. Go as big as you can...trust me.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

i understand about the casters. i haven't ordered anything. I know this thing will be in the trailer almost 90% of the time so I won't be wheeling it many places at all. 
casters are gonna be another 100 bucks. lol.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

ApgarNJ said:


> woodpeckers lift was nice but that meant spending another 300 plus dollars and I already spent enough since I got a big router to go in this full time. the triton router has a crank handle that you drill a hole for and you adjust the height from up top. no need for a lift. saves you a bunch.


I was going to get the woodpeckers lift as they were the same price but I was having trouble finding a place for the handle kit. I also got 10% of the jessem lift so it made it about $300. Jessem and woodpeckers might be the same company as I have found many of their parts fit each other. I even used the woodpeckers template to cut my slot for base. They are the exact same dimensions.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

benchdog is the company that makes the odd sized router plate for the table, standard is the woodpecker's size as that also fits in the kreg table as well.


----------



## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

I want to see pics of this durn thing when you get going on it 

Throw me a bone :glare:


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

no problem Crow. I already have the super fence put together. I just need the casters and the base. The drawers are going to have to be added later. I just want the base built so I can put the top on it and fasten it down. I'm not a cabinetmaker, so I'll do my best.


----------



## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

I figured my miter stand would be a shop only type item...now it goes out to alot more jobs then I expected. I have 3" casters and they gets stuck on stupid stuff like screws...drives me nuts.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I will plug my shaper in and take pictures, just to show crow how easy it was.:laughing:

I got less in it then you guys do in your router tables. I may still be able to afford a cms when it comes out.:whistling


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

ApgarNJ said:


> my woodpeckers router plate has really small increments where you line up the fence as you adjust it. I saw the freud and liked the setup but went with the superfence.
> 
> also has the offset for doing small jointer type edging


The other reason I was going to use tracks as well was because it would have kept the table nice and stiff. I ended up putting some braces on the bottom side from not using a track for fence. Hopefully shouldn't get no sag. Nice thing is I can just pop the router top out and have a fully usable second mft or I can unhook the fence and still have a nice flat surface as a out feed table or just extra support from main mft.


----------



## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

BCConstruction said:


> Buy 4 then :thumbsup:


yeah. I have 1200 bucks I don't know what to do with. lol.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

ApgarNJ said:


> yeah. I have 1200 bucks I don't know what to do with. lol.


You will only get 2 for that :laughing:


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I think the bare one's, without the guide rail, fence and protractor stuff are like 475.00

I have been trying to convince festool to offer a clamping package as an option to buy with a mft/3.

Get it without the rail and stuff and get as assortment of their clamps.

I know the clamping elements seem expensive (95.00) but they are awesome, so are the ratcheting quick clamps.


----------

