# Tile tub surround



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

At some point, somebody did replace the trap and changed over to pvc. It turns out, they used a trap adapter with no nut...just slammed the pipe into the trap adapter about 2" and it didn't appear as though ever leaked :blink: No matter, even though the riser was smack dab against the joist, I forced one on with the new overflow assembly and tightened everything down. Did several leak tests and everything is good. 

I will say that old drain flange weighed about a pound of pure brass, not like todays cheapened version and was larger in diameter which I warned the owner about...and possibly not covering everything on the freshly coated tub. Turns out the new overflow lever escutcheon is smaller as well with some old yellow tub exposed around the perimeter. I'm gonna just touch them up with some white enamel and call it okay. 

Sometimes you gotta swallow your pride and puke a bit to get through this thing they call contracting :laughing: 

Since I had some time at the end of the day, I plunked down the toilet with a thin wax ring and two plastic shims to get level. Seating it felt good with sufficient squish so I bolted her down and installed a new seat. 

This is a Delta Prelude round bowl 1.28 gal dual "sorta" flush. A simple #1 requires quick flush handle release with minimal water usage and for a #2, you're supposed to hold the handle down. Tank re-fill times are approx. 20 seconds for a quick flush and 40 seconds after flushing behemoths :laughing: seems to work pretty good for the money.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

superseal said:


> I put my removal tool in, no cross, just nubs on both sides and applied pressure. No way, no how this thing was moving. Went out a grabbed a bigger wrench for leverage, still no go. Took a hammer to the wrench absolutely no movement at all.


Ran into one of those a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately, the tub was beyond saving and being replaced. Took a torch to it and it softened right up so I could spin it out.

And there was no discernible damage to the grungy tub, either. :laughing:


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I don't know what a torch would have done to the refinish job, but I wasn't going there on this one. When I was beating on the wrench with a hammer I envisioned the nightmare of possibly cracking the cast iron around that drain. I knew it had to be corroded a bit but when I finally got it out, the wall thickness at the drain hole had to have been 1/2" thick. I bet that tub weighs in excess of 450lbs.

It took about 15 mins. with the dremel to slice it out...well worth it considering damage to the tub at this stage in the game.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I would have had words with it.:whistling


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

superseal said:


> yea, redgard...page 1 has details :laughing:


My bad I skipped past page one. I should have known it would be well documented. :thumbup:

Hey ever consider using the wedi or kerdi boards? Lighter, cleaner and water proof in one shot. I am easing into them.


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## ECS_Ecentric (Jan 18, 2017)

I recently attended the Schluter workshop. Really cool stuff. I'm going to try to work it in on a current estimate for a bath gut/remodel. Based on the little bit of hands-on work we had, definite time saver.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

ECS_Ecentric said:


> I recently attended the Schluter workshop. Really cool stuff. I'm going to try to work it in on a current estimate for a bath gut/remodel. Based on the little bit of hands-on work we had, definite time saver.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk


The boards are way more expensive than cement board but when you figure in the time in between thin- setting joints and applying coats of liquid membrane the finances turn out to be equal and you can tile the next day the same day even if you want.

I know it's not used widespread but I believe it is the future and it's going to make things much easier for us.


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

superseal said:


> They don't make'em like this anymore, I'll tell you that. And how that tub overflow linkage ever actually stopped water, I'll never know. Are you supposed to hang a dead rat from spring thingy...Maybe killer toilet spider can chime in. This is how it looked when I pulled it out, maybe it had a washer on it or something?...never seen one like this.


Pretty common around here. Stopper just pulled out.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tom M said:


> My bad I skipped past page one. I should have known it would be well documented. :thumbup:
> 
> Hey ever consider using the wedi or kerdi boards? Lighter, cleaner and water proof in one shot. I am easing into them.


Kerdi is a paint to work with, IMO, but others swear by it. I don't like the fact that Schluter requires all the overlap. I thought I left that behind with mud and liner pans. I also hate having to patch every stinking screw.

Wedi is a much better system. Concrete/waterproofing coated foam. Ridged and ready to tile. All you have to do is seal the seams and corners and you are ready to tile after lunch. No mixing of thinset, no overlap, easy to cut and light weight.

Currently I don't have a close Wedi distributor so I am doing a hybrid installation. I use the Kerdi pan (so the only overlap is going up the wall. And Densheild walls. I install the DS like Wedi. I use a urethane sealant on the seams but then cover with FibaFuse and do two coats of topical. Then the entire assembly gets a coat of topical.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Tom M said:


> My bad I skipped past page one. I should have known it would be well documented. :thumbup:
> 
> Hey ever consider using the wedi or kerdi boards? Lighter, cleaner and water proof in one shot. I am easing into them.


I've been itching to use some Kerdi boards...just bid a total bathroom gut
and I've specified a complete Schluter system for the shower. I'm a little nervous about getting everything just right, but given my dexterity and skillsets, I'm looking forward to it.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tom M said:


> The boards are way more expensive than cement board but when you figure in the time in between thin- setting joints and applying coats of liquid membrane the finances turn out to be equal and you can tile the next day the same day even if you want.
> 
> I know it's not used widespread but I believe it is the future and it's going to make things much easier for us.


You should be getting Kerdi board for 30% off retail. If you aren't, then you need to ring someone's neck.

And you are spot on with the cost. I would even go as far to say that you are better off and not equal in terms of cost.

Installation time after cement board can be as soon as the same day, but definitely the next day.

I also agree that it's the way things are going. Most professional tile setters are using these products and more designers and builders are having them spec'ed.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

superseal said:


> I've been itching to use some Kerdi boards...just bid a total bathroom gut
> and I've specified a complete Schluter system for the shower. I'm a little nervous about getting everything just right, but given my dexterity and skillsets, I'm looking forward to it.


If you have any questions or need some direction give me a shout. 630-347-1956


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I think the only way to get certified as a wedi installer is to have a rep come out while you are assembling a kit under his supervision.

I went to the last seminar they had in the summer with curbless showers it was kind of cool.

I'm not a tile setter but as the Builder I'm responsible for the prep work and getting things ready so I like this stuff


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tom M said:


> I think the only way to get certified as a wedi installer is to have a rep come out while you are assembling a kit under his supervision.
> 
> I went to the last seminar they had in the summer with curbless showers it was kind of cool.
> 
> I'm not a tile setter but as the Builder I'm responsible for the prep work and getting things ready so I like this stuff


Wedi reps will come out and actually do the first install with you, but that won't certify you. You have to go to the half day certification training.

http://www.wedi.de/en-us/service/for-wholesale-contractors/pro-warranty/


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Currently I don't have a close Wedi distributor so I am doing a hybrid installation. I use the Kerdi pan (so the only overlap is going up the wall. And Densheild walls. I install the DS like Wedi. I use a urethane sealant on the seams but then cover with FibaFuse and do two coats of topical. Then the entire assembly gets a coat of topical.


What are you using for urethane?? I tried Sika 1A, but takes so long to cure.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

goneelkn said:


> What are you using for urethane?? I tried Sika 1A, but takes so long to cure.


I'd like to know as well...I got a chit ton of experience with urethanes and none cure quick, as in silicone quick anyway. 

The fastest I know of is Dymeric 240 FC and it still takes it's sweet time.


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

superseal said:


> I'd like to know as well...I got a chit ton of experience with urethanes and none cure quick, as in silicone quick anyway.
> 
> The fastest I know of is Dymeric 240 FC and it still takes it's sweet time.


Especially to put topical on same day!


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

You don't need it to cure, you are only setting it in between the sheets. So it's such a thin bead. I should have also clarified that we used to use a urethane based sealant, but have moved on to QUAD OSI. It had nothing to do with cure times, but availability. It has much of the same characteristics of a urethane based sealant.


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> You don't need it to cure, you are only setting it in between the sheets. So it's such a thin bead. I should have also clarified that we used to use a urethane based sealant, but have moved on to QUAD OSI. It had nothing to do with cure times, but availability. It has much of the same characteristics of a urethane based sealant.


Thanks.
So no problems with the topical adhesion on the "squeeze out" of excess caulk?? Do you wait at all for mesh and topical??


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

goneelkn said:


> Thanks.
> So no problems with the topical adhesion on the "squeeze out" of excess caulk?? Do you wait at all for mesh and topical??


We install the boards and get just enough to ooze a bit from the seam. I take a 2" knife and scrape off and press in as much as I can. We set the FibaFuse and topical once all the board is set. It's usually an hour or so after the first board is installed so the OSI has skinned.


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