# Tape Right Away?



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

MarkJames said:


> This thread just gave me a eureka moment for a new and improved method of super easy and fast drywall patching. I might even become a billionaire. I'd tell you about it, but first need to develop it and get it into production. (I can't believe how easy it is.) See you in a couple years. Thanks!


Almost every time I have a good idea, I find out someone else had it, too:laughing:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I would take the 6 screws out of that sheet of drywall and slam it up tight and shim the board as needed to plane things out properly, then tape it.

I have been mixing a full bag of 45 into a full bucket of ap for taping. Works great! For small repairs I'd do it like Rob said..


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

With those pics I would mesh tape and hot mud. Nothing seems to dramatic to recut or shim at this point. Next time keep some drywall shims in the truck and use them to help even out the plane.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

5 minute is my favorite and what I use the most.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

dcapone said:


>


One thing I always' like to do is to put screws in any available framing members on the existing drywall that is around a repair. :thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

MarkJames said:


> One of my painters would score and cut the paper away from the existing drywall so there's a recess for paper tape.


:no:
I can think of a few reasons why this is not a good idea.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> With those pics I would mesh tape and hot mud. Nothing seems to dramatic to recut or shim at this point. Next time keep some drywall shims in the truck and use them to help even out the plane.


I'm not sold on mesh tape for drywall. From what I see, mesh tape doesn't seem to perform any better than paper- maybe even worse. Come to think of it, I see a fair amount of reopened cracks from mesh repairs (not mine, of course).

Is it actually better or just easier, since one can stick it on the crack before mudding?


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> :no:
> I can think of a few reasons why this is not a good idea.


Maybe, but he swears by it and claims no call-backs. He's been painting for a good, long time. ...but I know what you mean. It creates a new weak point.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

MarkJames said:


> I'm not sold on mesh tape for drywall. From what I see, mesh tape doesn't seem to perform any better than paper- maybe even worse. Come to think of it, I see a fair amount of reopened cracks from mesh repairs (not mine, of course). Is it actually better or just easier, since one can stick it on the crack before mudding?


 Mesh tape seems flatter, for two reasons, one it's actually thinner, and two you don't have to mud behind it. It's not a lot of difference but it doesn't take much to crown a joint if your not careful.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Californiadecks said:


> Mesh tape seems flatter, for two reasons, one it's actually thinner, and two you don't have to mud behind it. It's not a lot of difference but it doesn't take much to crown a joint if your not careful.


True. Then there's fibafuse which I haven't tried yet. HD now has rolls.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MarkJames said:


> I'm not sold on mesh tape for drywall. From what I see, mesh tape doesn't seem to perform any better than paper- maybe even worse. Come to think of it, I see a fair amount of reopened cracks from mesh repairs (not mine, of course).
> 
> Is it actually better or just easier, since one can stick it on the crack before mudding?


If you are going to use hot mud you should use mesh. 

It's more the installer than the installation method. Not properly installed, anything will fail.


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## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

Yep, screws in existing drywall too is often needed to tighten it down. 
And fibafuse ultra thin :thumbsup:

I may have to try the hot mud mixed in ap sometime for larger stuff to see what that's like.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> :no:
> I can think of a few reasons why this is not a good idea.


Just for the sake of discussion, how do think this patch would perform:

plywood backing (screwed across opening into existing drywall..
install patch (couple screws on each side)
hot mud only (no tape whatsoever)

I specifically mention ply because it's more dimensionally stable, whereas a regular board could expand/contract and eventually cause a crack. See what I'm getting at? Not to be hacky, just wondering. Kind of hard for me to imagine that would crack. But maybe eventually. Again, just wondering..


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Thinking outside the box, also wondering about mixing in some some loose fiberglass into a fill coat of hot mud. Then skim with plain stuff. Bet that would be strong.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

You're patching a wall not pouring a shop floor.. :lol:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

We need another good mesh tape discussion...


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> We need another good mesh tape discussion...


:no:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> You're patching a wall not pouring a shop floor.. :lol:


:laughing::laughing:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I have a surfboard repair I never got around to...That's where that came from.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

MarkJames said:


> Just for the sake of discussion, how do think this patch would perform:
> 
> plywood backing (screwed across opening into existing drywall..
> install patch (couple screws on each side)
> ...


That can crack. If you use Durabond 90 with 50/50 water / acrylic modifier and it's about the size of a outlet cutout, it won't crack.


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Definitely prefill the gaps.
> Use a setting type compound. Much stronger than the bucket pre mix mud. :thumbsup:


 Paul I can certainly appreciate your setup... You have water nice radio you have the same drill and mixing paddle as I do.... But I see a role of mesh tape... yuck.

I'm hoping it was job specific and not an everyday thing...lol


To O/P.... Sir Mix is spot on with pre filling and allowing to settle before you tape.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Mesh will crack! It's just a matter of a short time.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

blacktop said:


> Mesh will crack! It's just a matter of a short time.


That's what I've seen, too.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

A tapers tape is two inches wide. Lol, that's the moto some hangers go by. Or a tapers tape is 500 feet wide depending on how you look at it. :laughing:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/too...e/paper-and-fiberglass-mesh-drywall-tape.aspx


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

MarkJames said:


> http://www.finehomebuilding.com/too...e/paper-and-fiberglass-mesh-drywall-tape.aspx


I think one of the most important differences is mesh has no shear strength (pull a square of it corner to corner, and it moves like crazy). Paper tape is better for that.


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

hdavis said:


> I think one of the most important differences is mesh has no shear strength (pull a square of it corner to corner, and it moves like crazy). Paper tape is better for that.


I think once it's adhered to the board and then mudded over that kind of becomes a moot point. Not that I like or dislike mesh tape, mind you.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

svronthmve said:


> I think once it's adhered to the board and then mudded over that kind of becomes a moot point. Not that I like or dislike mesh tape, mind you.


I use mesh tape quite a bit, but it's important to remember that mud has pretty much only compressive strength, paper has tensile and shear strength, mesh has tensile, but will elongate. Put mud and paper or mesh together, and you wind up with a combination of the two properties. I see a lot more cracking over a 30 year period with mesh.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Here we go again! :laughing:


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

It was only a matter of time. There's a lot of guys in this area do a whole house with mesh. They crack up fast.


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

I've seen both mesh and paper crack. I've also seen both not crack years later.

Personally, and it's only my humble opinion, I think it has more to do with the way the substrate is installed, the quality of the mud & skill of the finisher.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

BCConstruction said:


> It was only a matter of time. There's a lot of guys in this area do a whole house with mesh. They crack up fast.


Because they are not using hot mud. Mesh is designed to be used with hot mud. On some additions and gut remodels I have used only mesh. The key is using hot mud on the first two coats. 

With anything, if it is not properly installed it will fall.

I don't know if any home with paper or mesh that doesn't have some cracking or failure somewhere. 

The only installation that I have seen last the longest is good old lathe and plaster. But none of us are going to go backwards.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

How would you tape an inside corner with mesh? Please tell me you use one of those inside corner knives..


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## Gary H (Dec 10, 2008)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> How would you tape an inside corner with mesh? Please tell me you use one of those inside corner knives..


I tried them . They suck.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> How would you tape an inside corner with mesh? Please tell me you use one of those inside corner knives..


I used straight flex on corners. So I guess not 100% mesh.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

We've had this discussion a million times...mesh is sh!t end of story.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Inner10 said:


> We've had this discussion a million times...mesh is sh!t end of story.


Small patches only. Otherwise I would never mesh a whole room.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Californiadecks said:


> Small patches only. Otherwise I would never mesh a whole room.


Like I said, done properly you can do all the vertical and horizontal seams with no issue. Problem is most people are not educated or experienced enough to do it properly. It is used by second rate handymen as well as DIY'ers.

With that said I have actually moved over to Fibafuse. You can use that in corners with good success, but I still use Straight Flex.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I would never use anything other than paper tape in a 90º corner. Everything else is just expensive and prohibitive. I can tape a 8' corner in like 2 minutes and if I'm in a hurry one side gets bed coated. 

That no coat is nice for oblique stuff but for the cost of a box of that I buy most of the mud for the job.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

$20 for a hundred feet. Takes no longer than paper and is perfect every time. My painter loves the corners when I am done. I can get paper pretty crisp, but nothing like straight flex.

This is what I use:


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