# Matching Old Brick



## artisanstone (Nov 27, 2007)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> In my experience, the devil is in the details with brick veneers....
> the flashing details.
> 
> Trying to get all my flashing worked out and order the materials.
> ...


My preference would be bituthene, or whatever they call it in flashing widths. This is for the through-wall type flashings. Wall to roof, I would do copper for the exposed part lapped in 1 1/2 and then peel and stick for the through wall part. I think that's a good balance of performance vs cost. You can use the goopy stuff in the caulk tube to seal the bituthene to the copper if you want. A lot of my jobs have full through-wall copper step flashing, but a lot of it depends on solder and I'm not real confident it will hold up (mostly because I'm not real confident in the roofers that install it).

Also, I would prefer rope weeps or the cellular plastic ones that fit in a head joint. An open head joint just begs wasps to take up residence in the air space.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

artisanstone said:


> My preference would be bituthene, or whatever they call it in flashing widths. This is for the through-wall type flashings. Wall to roof, I would do copper for the exposed part lapped in 1 1/2 and then peel and stick for the through wall part. I think that's a good balance of performance vs cost. You can use the goopy stuff in the caulk tube to seal the bituthene to the copper if you want. A lot of my jobs have full through-wall copper step flashing, but a lot of it depends on solder and I'm not real confident it will hold up (mostly because I'm not real confident in the roofers that install it).
> 
> Also, I would prefer rope weeps or the cellular plastic ones that fit in a head joint. An open head joint just begs wasps to take up residence in the air space.


I like the idea of a proper drip edge, so I was thinking of doing all the lintels and the roof/wall line with membranes and an attached hard drip edge.
So many membrane brands though......wondering if there is a standout..?...?

Also....Goopy stuff = "Through The Roof", or "SikaFlex"? 

As far as the wasps...
I'll be ordering a cellular/whatever weep. :thumbsup:

My roofer is good, but I'm not sure anyone is "good" enough around here as far as proper brick veneer flashing.

We are going to either do it all ourselves, or be very specific about our intentions.

I've seen way too many poorly done flashing jobs with brick.

Thanks... :thumbsup:


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

The IMI is a great source for modern masonry details. http://imiweb.org/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

...


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> ...





You nailed it .:thumbsup: Gables on veneers need through wall flashings.:thumbsup:


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## Rockmonster (Nov 15, 2007)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I like the idea of a proper drip edge, so I was thinking of doing all the lintels and the roof/wall line with membranes and an attached hard drip edge.
> So many membrane brands though......wondering if there is a standout..?...?
> 
> Also....Goopy stuff = "Through The Roof", or "SikaFlex"?
> ...


Stand out would be Perm-a-barrier by Grace.....it's a very distinctive green, and super tough. It doesn't stick quite like Ice and Water, but you won't want it to on a windy 92 degree day. :vs_mad:

I use a roofer who's well versed in slate, and his soldering is textbook. Always irons. There are a number of guys here who use a torch with success, but whatever works. Try it yourself.....I do some of my own.......very slowly (and nothing I'd show a picture of) but it's watertight and looks good from 35 ft. See some of Joe Jenkins videos for helpful hints.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Rockmonster said:


> Stand out would be Perm-a-barrier by Grace.....it's a very distinctive green, and super tough. It doesn't stick quite like Ice and Water, but you won't want it to on a windy 92 degree day. :vs_mad:
> 
> I use a roofer who's well versed in slate, and his soldering is textbook. Always irons. There are a number of guys here who use a torch with success, but whatever works. Try it yourself.....I do some of my own.......very slowly (and nothing I'd show a picture of) but it's watertight and looks good from 35 ft. See some of Joe Jenkins videos for helpful hints.


Thanks brothaman....

That's what I was looking for.


Just talked to the old man this morning. (Fathers Day an all....)

He's excited to come down and give me an advanced tutorial on laying brick.
(Which effectively means......yell at me and call me an idiot...:jester

I think I'm going to video tape it.
If he's as good as I think he is.....I want to have a record of it for the youngsters.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Krando metal products located near me in PA can provide all the flashings needed. They do stainless, aluminum, copper and lead coated copper. Interlocking, preformed corners and end dams, termination bar and drip edge, they do it all. 

Some other quality products come from Wire-Bond...cavity net DT, Rhino bond, cell vent, drip edge flashing, corners and termination bar as well.

Hyload out of Ohio is another good one for masonry flashings...they now offer lifetime warranties on their products.

www.krando.com

www.wirebond.com

www.hyload.com


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

superseal said:


> Krando metal products located near me in PA can provide all the flashings needed. They do stainless, aluminum, copper and lead coated copper. Interlocking, preformed corners and end dams, termination bar and drip edge, they do it all.
> 
> Some other quality products come from Wire-Bond...cavity net DT, Rhino bond, cell vent, drip edge flashing, corners and termination bar as well.
> 
> ...



Would you go metal or membrane....or a hybrid?


I was planning on going basically 50-50.

Aluminum at the brick to block/pre-cast, and the wall to roof transitions.

Membrane over those to WRB.

Membranes with metal drip edge at lintels.

Definitely doing a Mortar-net type of product. 


I'll check out Krando. :thumbsup:


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Would you go metal or membrane....or a hybrid?
> 
> 
> I was planning on going basically 50-50.
> ...


If you're careful with the membranes, you'll have no issues... I love copper or lead coated but pricey. So many products out there today will get the job done and you're more likely to have problems in the detailing, rather the materials.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

An update before one last question.....hopefully.

Most of the brick is on site.
8,400 Lawrenceville Old Salem's on deck, and another 1,600 waiting for delivery.

We have 8 tons of sand and 80 bags of "Colonial" colored mortar mix.
(I called a buddy around here who does a lot of restoration work, the "busy guy" I mentioned; he dialed me in to the right stuff.)

We just borrowed 40 bucks of masons scaffold with all the bits.
Nice to have friends......

Scaffold will be set tomorrow.
Only issue is with the room I have to operate the Terex for loading materials.
It's really tight and I have to figure out the best plan.
Probably going to just lay one wall at a time, starting out back, so I can get to the materials easily.

My Dad stopped by for a couple hours last weekend and we laid one course around the whole perimeter as we talked through the whole thing.

Little tips....
like pre-bending the brick ties so they stay against the wall while you are laying.
making sure I do nothing but lay brick and conserve motion so I can lay them fast.

My roofer is long done with the standing seam and the roof to wall flashing.

I'm finally looking to be laying brick in earnest on Monday morning.

Finally....because rain, and a restaurant we are remodeling have been slowing us down a bit.


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## artisanstone (Nov 27, 2007)

Are you going to set corner poles? Or are you building leads.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

artisanstone said:


> Are you going to set corner poles? Or are you building leads.



Because of the loading/space issue, I think I'm going to have to set corner poles. 

That's what the old man said to do. 

He said to just use sand and half bricks to "shim" the tooth. 

I figure I'll just cut a bunch of 2x blocks and have a pile ready. 

Sand?

I'm a wood guy.....mostly....ish.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Put a half brick down and a pinch of sand, lay on top of it, then later the half brick comes out ez because its on sand. 

Youll need weeps.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

JBM said:


> Put a half brick down and a pinch of sand, lay on top of it, then later the half brick comes out ez because its on sand.
> 
> Youll need weeps.



A pinch?

I figured it was going to be a sandy mess. 
I'll give it a shot. 

Thanks. 

Weeps are here. 
MortarNet too. 

40mil membrane and pre-made dams also. 

Those dams were spendy. 
But I didn't want to play around making them myself.....or worry about them not being really tight.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Might try using wet sand. Its been a long time since ive toothed, where is Brickhook~!


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Well..... we're laying brick now..... :thumbsup:

And realizing all of the things that we don't know about laying brick. :whistling

Most of the hiccups have been involving proper staging and prep.

How many bricks?
Where to place/how many mortar pans?
What height to set things on the scaffold?
When to move up......?
Etc....etc.

Three days in (half day Monday setting up), and I laid about 600 brick yesterday and a few less the day before.
I keep trying to get to my father's magic number of 1,000 a day, but I don't see it happening.
Too many little fits and starts.
Windows....
Brick ties....
Waterproofing.....
Bond courses..... (which I missed one of and had to tear off a course, despite my father warning me to write them on the wall or I would cruise right past them)

My guys are doing great with the mortar mixing, but need some time with the rest.
So far it's taking 3 tenders to keep my going with all the little things that they need to do along with the mortar and staging brick.

The one good thing, is that every time I "make a mistake", by running off of bond, or setting a brick a bit below the line; I remember that this is what I'm supposed to be doing.

It looks pretty darn similar to the old stuff from a small distance away.
I'm wondering if we can just not clean off the mortar smudging to help it look messier.....which it certainly looks. :laughing:


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Looking, um, good enough?:thumbsup:


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Bond courses..... (which I missed one of and had to tear off a course, despite my father warning me to write them on the wall or I would cruise right past them)


Did you not write it on the wall?


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

hdavis said:


> Did you not write it on the wall?



I did not.


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