# Aplatech tools the CFS system anyone using them?



## D-ball (Dec 24, 2006)

Hi

Been working with the CFS system for about 3 months now and am still having problems with the 10 and 12 coaters. My pressure on the Graco 5 is at 22-25 hundred psi and the mud thickness is not pourable but not stiff either, like a medium pancake batter. Using 50 feet of 3/8 and 25 feet 1/4 inch hose. Also want to know where to find a high pressure swivel which reduces from 3/8 to 1/4 to keep pressure hose looping to a minimum. Also having difficulty with 3 inch nail spotter looking for correct mixture and pressure settings.

thanks D-ball



" If you want to make an omelette you have to break a few eggs"


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## axnjoe (Dec 10, 2006)

Hey D
Weare not usung the cfs rather still the canons.
But I would think that if you were looping the 25 and 50',..what hassle.
I could have that same problem and have but now I just spin the other way every once in a while and I dont have that prblem any more. I rarely have more than two loops in the room and I never have them from one room top the pump.
On the nail spotter,.....what is the problem?
Let me guess.
When in motion and the pulling the trigger, it seem to unload too much mud too fast. Even on lower preasure.
Is that it?
Is that the same problem with the 10 and 12 heads?



thanks D-ball



" If you want to make an omelette you have to break a few eggs"[/quote]


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## CapeTaper (Mar 15, 2006)

*CFS Tools*

Hi D-Ball
Try turning the pressure down to 2000 PSI. Run your tools there til you get some more time in. It takes a bit to get used to the timing/flow rate. You'll go a little slower, but you will have a lot more control over the start and stopping of the flow from the Graco valve.:thumbsup: 
Good Luck -
CapeTaper.


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## D-ball (Dec 24, 2006)

hey joe.

first off I do turn one way and then the other to get loops out. I even installed a quick connect right at the pump to unhook when rolling up. I just think that the easier the pressure hose turns the better. Don't forget that if you are using the cannon the hose you have is WAY more flexible than high pressure hose.

The other thing with the spotter? I can run a pattern of 3 or 30 , and getting feathered edges, but the mud over the screws and in between is too thick. Should just be a wipe on and wipe off procedure. I think that the next house I will try using a very thin mud.

On the other hand the CFS taper is FRICKIN AMAZING! No probs with that one. Took awhile to get the hang of it as I have never used a bazooka before , but let me tell ya I can keep 2 "wipers" behind me and they are buisier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest!

10 and 12 coaters not the best though still working on time/material application. Mud viscosity has a lot to do with it though. You can mix it one way and then depending on pressure it comes out another. hehe time will tell

Angles are a breeze now as long as they are properly glazed when you tape.

These tools are gonna kick butt on the next commercial job I am on!


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## D-ball (Dec 24, 2006)

hey Cape:

When I was talking to Shannon from Apla-tech he told me proper settings for nail spotter were 4-6 hundred psi. Basically the lowest pressure you can use. Think I am going to try different thickness of mud. The cd you get from the company doesnt help worth a crap though the tech support is good.


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## axnjoe (Dec 10, 2006)

D
Good point on the air hose being softer.
Not sure this will help you but I was having the looping problem with some of my power washer hoses cuz under preasure they can be really stiff. I went to an industrial hose/lines/fittings place and they pointed me towards another type of hose that was extremely soft and flexible that still had all the preasure characteristics of my old hose. Though it was about twice the price, it was well worth it. I think that I have a a 25' really expensive paint hose one one of my sprayers as well. 

All my guys run the nail spotter with different results. I personally dont have a problem with mine. Two coats and they usually wipe tight and very smooth(I mean smooth enough that one swipe over with the sander and good foor painted surfaces)
Could your spotter be worn?
I caught one of my guys running the spotters today and he was building his runs too thick. He said he couldn't regulate the pressure well enough. BUT after we ajusted the ball valve at the head connection, instead of the pressure the problem was solved.

Have you ever used the cannons?


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## BrookAnderson (Aug 2, 2008)

*Contiuuous flow system (aplatech)*

Purchase the cfs system , and being solo and not having any hands on instruction from shannon or dave, it was of course a nightmare,( made all the mistakes) . From not unwinding the hose to mud to thin, too high pressure etc.
I must say that the taping machine would be ideal for a crew
but for some one who is solo , makes no sense! Try a banjo when you get a grip they are unreal, great for residential, not so good for commercial!
All and all i would say the cfs system is worth everypenny. i run the 6 inche then go straight to twelve for texture ceilings, and on the walls i polish by hand. takes only a bit longer and the qaulity is better. works for me
One last question, does anyone out there use the bead tabs , and if so can you let me no what the trick is, always leaves a hollow when the gap is to wide then to thin in spots ,guess it would work if you followed with a hawk and trowell!! 
what type of a container are you people using to mix your mud, and how much at a time etc!

PS
lets here it from anyone who has a cfs system, give me some pointers ,i dont mind advice if it makes me money!


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## Tony M (May 9, 2007)

1. Skip the coaters and buy the cfs boxes. Less clean up, better finish.
2. Get a hopper for the mud. Less mixing and lid keeps mix wet.
3. Bead tabs work but must be cleaned up with trowel after. Good for putting mud on, but that's about all


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## Orlando Cabrera (Aug 9, 2008)

i still believe that hand trowels and a bazooka for your corners is the fastest and most effective way to tape, mind you that it cost about $6,000 less lol.


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## Tony M (May 9, 2007)

No Post


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## Tony M (May 9, 2007)

Orlando Cabrera said:


> i still believe that hand trowels and a bazooka for your corners is the fastest and most effective way to tape, mind you that it cost about $6,000 less lol.


Can you please send me some of the drugs you take to be able to hand tape faster than a machine?


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## Terryw (Oct 22, 2007)

Put 50' of 1/4" on the end of the line, forget that 3' 1/4" whip. Way easier to navigate with.

Been using the blue hopper from Grayco. Mix first in a 5 gallon bucket, then dump that into the hopper. I then toss in as many boxes as I need and start mixing in the hopper. Just be careful when you try to pull the pump out from the gasket. Be patient and wiggle it a bit and work it off. If you just pull hard straight up, it will likely pull the gasket out completely. Also be careful not to put your mixing paddle too far into the hopper or it will get stuck in the narrowing thorat at the bottom. Does not feel good on the wrists! A plastic 20 gallon Busshell basket also works pretty good for mixing in. That is what Shannon uses most of the time. Just make sure the sides are low enough to allow the pump to fit over them.


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## drywallnflorida (Sep 19, 2008)

can anyone that is using the cfs systems please post up there pressure setting for the taper, boxs, and angle coater. 

also what kind of thickness mud are you using???

I've just purchased the cfs system and was hand finishing before and am having good results for never running any type of tools before. 


The taper feels weird walking backwards compared to a banjo and going forward.

When taping what is the thickness of the mud compared to using a banjo?
same, a lil thicker, alot thicker, or thinner?????

Thanks for any info!!:thumbsup:


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## Terryw (Oct 22, 2007)

I never actually used a banjo prior to using a bazooka. But from what I have seen with other tapers, you will probably need your mud a little thinner for the flats, and ever thinner for the angles. If you don't thin the mud for the angles you will have a tougher time rolling and glazing. If it is not dripping once in a while you are taping, it is probably too thick. I too am still adjusting to running the taper. I find that for me, 1600psi is about the max I can set the pump and still keep up with the machine. I am sure that as I get more comfortable with the taper I will be able to crank it up to the recommended pressure of 2500psi. 

Aplatec recommended pressures:

Taping...................... 2500psi
Fill coat.................... 3200psi (maximum pressure setting for Mark V) 
Skim coat................. 1800psi
Coat inside angles...... 1500psi
Plastic mud heads...... 1200psi
Nail spotter.............. 400 -600psi (the lowest setting you can get)

While learning the system you will definitely want to start with lower pressures. The higher the pressure, the faster and more precise you must be. The exception to this is the nail spotter, with this you are all ready at the lowest pressure you can be and still make the pump engage when you pull the trigger. The recommendations for pressure are merely a starting point. If there is too much mud, then turn down the pump. If you are running out of mud, increase the pump. Be willing to turn down the pump for a while till you learn how to handle the flow of mud to the various tools.


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