# Which flat paint from Sherwin Williams in a million dollar home 3,300 sq ft



## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

I am getting ready to paint a brand new 3,300 sq ft million dollar home 10ft ceilings (except for tall living room). Walls and ceilings same color (light grey) and everything will be flat paint. 

What system would you use to paint. My friend told me even on some of these paints a flat can flash on top of flat. For example i spray and backroll the ceilings first and then do the walls next i will have some overspray going up to the ceiling that could flash.

Wondering a recommendation for which Sherwin Flat ?

Assuming i need to backroll ceilings both coats to avoid having to sand them in-between coats...

MUCH APPRECIATED


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

You're a painting contractor, shouldn't you know these things? If you want a top notch job you start with a drywall primer that seals.


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## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

You did not think about what paint to use BEFORE you bid the job? I just never understood this philosophy...

That's like bidding out a roofing job, but you aint figured out which shingles you'll use just yet. Or a tile job without picking the tile...

Go ask your paint rep, if you're a real painter you will have one.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

Driftweed said:


> You did not think about what paint to use BEFORE you bid the job? I just never understood this philosophy...
> 
> That's like bidding out a roofing job, but you aint figured out which shingles you'll use just yet. Or a tile job without picking the tile...
> 
> Go ask your paint rep, if you're a real painter you will have one.


No real painterz call the rep AFTER there is a problem.

Only noobs ask questions before there is a problem.

Havent seen you in a long time driftweed. Are you making more doing bathtubs or painting?

For the record Promar 200 or 400 series flat is pretty nice. 

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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

sparehair said:


> No real painterz call the rep AFTER there is a problem.
> 
> Only noobs ask questions before there is a problem.
> 
> ...


400 is total junk and 200 is over priced middle of the road I certainly wouldn't use either in a high end home.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Cashmere or Emerald for a higher end home...it is all our painter uses.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

avenge said:


> 400 is total junk and 200 is over priced middle of the road I certainly wouldn't use either in a high end home.


Could you tell me the performance differences between the two?

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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Duration


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

avenge said:


> You're a painting contractor, shouldn't you know these things? If you want a top notch job you start with a drywall primer that seals.


I am a Sherwin Williams guy. So If I walked into a JC Licht store I wouldn't be able to tell you what to use.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Driftweed said:


> You did not think about what paint to use BEFORE you bid the job? I just never understood this philosophy...
> 
> That's like bidding out a roofing job, but you aint figured out which shingles you'll use just yet. Or a tile job without picking the tile...
> 
> Go ask your paint rep, if you're a real painter you will have one.


Ehh, Reps are not painters and only speak from cut sheets. I would ask a contracting group first.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MarkJames said:


> Duration


That would be my go to. But in a million dollar home I would use Cashmere just in case someone asked them what paint I used. Image is everything.


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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

Asking the guys that work at Sherwin is a horrible idea as opposed to asking painters (here). This is a million dollar home with no baseboards and no trim on the casings. the door jambs (inside only) is galvanized metal and will go DTM and they requested flat walls and ceilings same colors. I know the better flats have a sheen i just did not know about putting a cheap paint (just for sheen purposes) in a million dollar home i think they probably would want a higher end flat flat just because the clientele in a million dollar home although it doesn't have to be the highest. My builder is pretty laid back and will trust my judgement i was just looking for suggestions for which flat. All ceilings and walls are smooth


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> That would be my go to. But in a million dollar home I would use Cashmere just in case someone asked them what paint I used. Image is everything.


Or maybe BM instead.


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## 402 Painting (Apr 5, 2017)

Just for the record we don't use drywall sealers here in nebraska in any of our homes we paint them flat and then 2 coats of eggshell NEVER had an issue with this in 30 years whether it be track homes or million dollar homes. 

yes i have a sales rep...yes i am a painting contractor... no i don't need to know this before the bid.....this is not rocket science and the bashing is laughable ...just not that familiar with the sherwin williams product and asking for suggestions DAMN lol


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

402 Painting said:


> Just for the record we don't use drywall sealers here in nebraska in any of our homes we paint them flat and then 2 coats of eggshell NEVER had an issue with this in 30 years whether it be track homes or million dollar homes.
> 
> yes i have a sales rep...yes i am a painting contractor... no i don't need to know this before the bid.....this is not rocket science and the bashing is laughable ...just not that familiar with the sherwin williams product and asking for suggestions DAMN lol


You've been doing it half ass for 30 years.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

avenge said:


> You've been doing it half ass for 30 years.


Hes been making money for thirty years in freaking Nebraska, how long have you been slinging paint?

Also, you never answered my question about the promar. You say 200 is over priced and 400 is crap. 

Tbh I cant tell the difference between the two. They are both good, non splattering, high hide, low flashing paints that touch up well. Price is reasonable as well. 

If there is some characteristic that is problematic for you I would love to learn about it.

We are here to share info, not bash people for trying to learn.

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## Bummie (May 11, 2007)

402 Painting said:


> Just for the record we don't use drywall sealers here in nebraska in any of our homes we paint them flat and then 2 coats of eggshell


Just curious.... why would you not use sealer/primer instead of flat??? Inquiring minds want to know!!


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

sparehair said:


> Hes been making money for thirty years in freaking Nebraska, how long have you been slinging paint?
> 
> Also, you never answered my question about the promar. You say 200 is over priced and 400 is crap.
> 
> ...


I don't sling paint, been applying coatings for over 40 years. How do you know the OP is making money? There's plenty making money doing crap work.

You can't tell the difference between 400 and 200? I don't know what to say if you can't tell the difference when using different paints. Do you realize where 200 and 400 stand in SW line of paints? The first time I used 400 I put it back in the can and returned it. I used 200 for ceilings only, back when it was decent and not over priced.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

avenge said:


> I don't sling paint, been applying coatings for over 40 years. How do you know the OP is making money? There's plenty making money doing crap work.
> 
> You can't tell the difference between 400 and 200? I don't know what to say if you can't tell the difference when using different paints. Do you realize where 200 and 400 stand in SW line of paints? The first time I used 400 I put it back in the can and returned it. I used 200 for ceilings only, back when it was decent and not over priced.


You still havent answered the question.

What is the difference in characteristics between the two?

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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

sparehair said:


> You still havent answered the question.
> 
> What is the difference in characteristics between the two?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


Seriously? One sucks more than the other or one doesn't suck as much as the other. If you can't tell the difference by using both save yourself some cash and use 400 or "Ask Sherwin Williams"


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## Driftweed (Nov 7, 2012)

Is it true CHB stands for Chicago home builders? My rep was telling me a story about how it was specifically formulated for a massive HUD project and it sold so well, they kept selling it. Said it's sole purpose was to Hide, but not do much else.

It sure does the hiding part quite well.

Some of the stories reps tell you, you gotta have a hard time believing.


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## John1957 (Nov 20, 2016)

avenge said:


> I haven't used Cashmere in years so I have no idea if the formulation has changed today's low or no voc paints dry faster. A 2-1/2 inch angle is too small to be cutting in walls,. Always cut in the walls and allow it to dry before rolling.


Yeah Yeah Yeah.... My son busts on me about the 2 1/2" all the time. 

I have tried 3" & 4" brushes many times, and they are a bit faster, but I love how my 2 1/2 Wooster feels, and the control I have with it.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

John1957 said:


> Yeah Yeah Yeah.... My son busts on me about the 2 1/2" all the time.
> 
> I have tried 3" & 4" brushes many times, and they are a bit faster, but I love how my 2 1/2 Wooster feels, and the control I have with it.


I love my 3" Straight Wooster for cutting. It gives you the same stroke pushing or pulling.


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## NucaveConst. (May 12, 2017)

*SuperPaint or Emerald*

I would use SuperPaint or Emerald. Haven't used Cashmere.

Spray and back-roll. If it needs 2 coats, you can just back-roll the 2nd coat. It covers great. I'm sure Cashmere will be fine.



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## NucaveConst. (May 12, 2017)

*Let the cut line dry?*



avenge said:


> I haven't used Cashmere in years so I have no idea if the formulation has changed today's low or no voc paints dry faster. A 2-1/2 inch angle is too small to be cutting in walls,. *Always cut in the walls and allow it to dry before rolling.*



Now why do you let it dry? 

I paint it while it's wet so it blends better and there's no flashing.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

avenge said:


> Always cut in the walls and allow it to dry before rolling.


 The unspoken rule of painting is to always try and keep a wet edge. If you let your edging dry, then, rolling over that area will put on 2 coats in areas where the roller goes onto the dried edging.


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## NucaveConst. (May 12, 2017)

Exactly


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

NucaveConst. said:


> Now why do you let it dry?
> 
> I paint it while it's wet so it blends better and there's no flashing.
> 
> ...





Caslon said:


> The unspoken rule of painting is to always try and keep a wet edge. If you let your edging dry, then, rolling over that area will put on 2 coats in areas where the roller goes onto the dried edging.


If you cut in a room or even one wall the cut in is already tacking up by the time you start rolling. That's the last thing you want and will look exceptionally bad. The unspoken rule applies while brushing or rolling keep a wet edge not between the rolling and cutting. I don't have issues with flashing between cutting and rolling the worst problems I've had with flashing is when the drywall hasn't been sealed.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Keeping a wet edge when rolling paint across walls isn't that hard. Edge the top and bottom 6' ahead of you. Maintaining a wet film has it's real advantages over letting the edging dry. 

I think we've wandered off the OP's topic.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Caslon said:


> Keeping a wet edge when rolling paint across walls isn't that hard. Edge the top and bottom 6' ahead of you. Maintaining a wet film has it's real advantages over letting the edging dry.
> 
> I think we've wandered off the OP's topic.


That's probably one of the dumbest methods I've ever heard suggested.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

avenge said:


> That's probably one of the dumbest methods I've ever heard suggested.


You do painting exclusively? Who are you speaking for? Remodlers like yourself and such, or, day in and day out painting contractors?

Can we make this last, or will it just be over?


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## NucaveConst. (May 12, 2017)

*putting it to bed*



Caslon said:


> You do painting exclusively? Who are you speaking for? Remodlers like yourself and such, or, day in and day out painting contractors?
> 
> *Can we make this last, or will it just be over?*



Seriously this needs to be put to bed. 

Cut ahead of yourself as far as you can, but don't let the cut-in dry before you come back and roll. it's that simple. Can you get away with letting it dry? sure. but this is the best practice.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

avenge said:


> That's probably one of the dumbest methods I've ever heard suggested.


You need a heaping helping of tact.

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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

avenge said:


> That's probably one of the dumbest methods I've ever heard suggested.


shhhh. Painting contractor forum.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

I've been doing this for 43 years, full time painter for 25. I now do mostly remodeling. Casion we know you don't understand what remodeling is, you can't even spell it correctly.

You don't need to be a full time painter to know something about painting. If I saw anyone on my job cutting in 6ft, grabbing a roller, rolling 6ft over and over again you'd be fired.

And if you're asking for tact from me.....good luck.


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