# Trying again: What to look for in a drywaller



## sbcontracting (Apr 22, 2010)

This post was moved to the help wanted/looking for work forum. I wasnt actually looking for someone specifically, just asking the question WHAT to look for.

I'm looking for a good DW sub. Someone who's legit, pro, and reliable. It's hard to figure out what to look for in a pro drywaller.

The reason I ask is probably anyone that's in the biz is much, much better than I could ever be. Up front it's difficult for me to know a good boarder/plasterer from a bad one. 

Any advice on differentiating the good from the great? Some warning signs? Some out-of-date techniques, etc that should be avoided? 

Thanks!


----------



## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

I'm mobile, what's your location?

Unfortunately, its hard to find a good DW contractor.... a lot of the old skool guys gave up when non-tax paying illegals flooded the scene and all the slap builders fell for the price. I lucked out and found a guy that is only a finisher, but helps me hang for a couple bux more. He was a commercial guy but floated on his own and I found him through another contractor... check around with some other local companies, you may find gold


----------



## mrkjb (Apr 9, 2011)

Ask them for phone numbers of previous customers of theirs and give them a call. Id be more than happy to supply a customer with this info. Any decent tradesman would have a good list of not only private jobs they should also have some builders that can support their workmanship and quality reliability etc.


----------



## sbcontracting (Apr 22, 2010)

Thanks for the responses. Yes- I was going to ask for trade refs. Job refs are important as well - but I don't think you'll likely ever get a bad reference.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 7, 2010)

Ask to check their tools, if their shiny and new,,,,,,,,,,,run


----------



## bigbaby (May 7, 2009)

I'm a builder and I have some tips for you, though some of them are just my preference. I've also found it extremely hard to find good people at times.

Hang the rock horizontally on walls (less seams), hang wall rock 1/2 inch above concrete slab (moisture), use green board in wet areas such as walls around tubs (unless they are tub units), use screws only, no nails except to temporarily tack the edges - this will eliminate nail pops. Some like to screw the middle and nail the edges. I don't understand their logic. A nail is more likely to pop on edges, so use all screws. 

If ceilings or walls are not FLAT, don't hang the rock and call the framer back to correct problem first. I have my framer and my sheetrocker use a level or straight edge to check before the job. If the clg. is not flat, you will see waves at the seams.

Do not get mud in tubs and showers. Put something in the bottom to collect falling mud that can be lifted out rather than having to clean it out later and end up getting the tubs scratched. 

Before spraying finish, cover all windows, fireplace, tubs and showers with plastic using blue tape. And put newspaper in AC ducts and elec. receptacles. 

Cut all holes neatly with a fine bladed saw including elec recept. and lights/fans. Use metal on all outside corners. Float and sand the tape at least twice. Do not sand too hard or the walls will look and be hairy. 

Pay by the sq.ft., not the sheets, and go to the job to make sure they are not wasting sheets. And do not let them throw the waste outside in the yard-nightmare to clean up if it rains. 

Hope this helps. All the things above I have the sheetrockers do; I tell them to do these things and check and make sure they are. I've had more than my fair share of s/r problems and am getting very strict now because of it. And one more thing: before the finish is sprayed on, go to the job at night with a flashlight and do the flashlight test. See if there are any waves or non flat areas. :thumbsup:


----------



## Gough (May 1, 2010)

bigbaby said:


> I'm a builder and I have some tips for you, though some of them are just my preference. I've also found it extremely hard to find good people at times.
> 
> Hang the rock horizontally on walls (less seams), hang wall rock 1/2 inch above concrete slab (moisture), use green board in wet areas such as walls around tubs (unless they are tub units), use screws only, no nails except to temporarily tack the edges - this will eliminate nail pops. Some like to screw the middle and nail the edges. I don't understand their logic. A nail is more likely to pop on edges, so use all screws.
> 
> ...


The only thing I can add is to make sure that they are housebroken....


----------



## bigbaby (May 7, 2009)

Also, I've read that if they do really really thin coats of mud, sometimes they don't have to sand, but can use a wet sponge to smooth rough areas. 

And it's real important that each coat be allowed to dry for at least 24 hours.

The mud underneath the tape, and wetting the tape before applying has to dry thoroughly since it basically creates one unit, i.e., becoming 'one' with the sheetrock to create a base for the floating that will be done after. This will prevent cracks.


----------



## sbcontracting (Apr 22, 2010)

bigbaby said:


> I'm a builder and I have some tips for you, though some of them are just my preference. :thumbsup:


Thanks. That was exactly what I was looking for. Most of the things are 'common sense' ... after you hear them. But to have them as expectations and outline them up front will be a huge help. 

Really appreciate that.


----------



## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Sobriety!


----------



## Carpenter Wayne (Dec 21, 2009)

Anything less than 25 verified years in the trade (both commercial/residential) forget it and keep looking. Your BEST and most experienced guys are going to be mid 40s and beyond, speak, read and write fluent English and have 25 or more yrs under their belt (pre 90s boom era guys) who were there in the days things were done the right way.

They cost a bit more but your end result is a quality product far beyond that of today's cookie cutter/spec home drywallers. They know things & techniques that today's drywallers have never learned and never will.


----------



## sbcontracting (Apr 22, 2010)

Carpenter Wayne said:


> Anything less than 25 verified years in the trade (both commercial/residential) forget it and keep looking. Your BEST and most experienced guys are going to be mid 40s and beyond, speak, read and write fluent English and have 25 or more yrs under their belt (pre 90s boom era guys)


This is the guy I found. Says he's been doing it since he was 10. His old man founded the company, and he took it over. He's 45-50 i think. I liked him. $7 sf supplied and installed. That's what I get for asking for a ball-park estimate on a basement


----------



## vos (Apr 6, 2010)

If there like this lol http://www.contractortalk.com/f22/ever-wondered-if-drywallers-were-little-different-96627/


----------



## Rouerplastering (Sep 6, 2010)

Marlboro reds, tattos, headbands and earings.


----------



## vos (Apr 6, 2010)

I have noteds that most good drywallers are short. 5' 6" ish


----------

