# Skim coat maybe?



## Hmrepairs (Sep 11, 2010)

The bathroom I'm doing now had paneling installed previously. Removing the paneling also removed the front layer of paper from the drywall, where the glue was. Wondering about doing a skim coat over walls as a whole. Is this a viable option? What is the best product for this application. Searched a little, but couldn't find this particular issue addressed. Thanks


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Yes, it is. Green lid Sheetroc brand premix would be my suggestion.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

I wouldn't use green lid. If you ripped the face off the sheet rock then you have a problem. Green lid will end up peeling in layers. You will get bubbling. Here's what I would do if gutting and rock over are not options. First take a sand block and in circular motions knock down all the loose paper where the glue took off the face of the sheet rock. Bring it down to as clean a surface as you can. Then hit with primer. A spray can primer is fine. Hit those spots to lock up the paper. Then mesh over those spots and float with EZ sand. Once you cleaned up those areas then I would do two skims. One with EZ Sand horizontally the the other with mid weight vertically. Go on and of with the mid weight to give you the drywall look. There should be minimal sanding and no bubbling. Paper tape will work as well. I suggest mesh because I'm sure these spots are pretty big.


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## Hmrepairs (Sep 11, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. Keep them coming. Gut and new rock isn't really an option, just because of accessibility, (narrow winding staircase, no big windows). The areas aren't really that big, but there are alot of them. Looks like someone just shot adhesive out of the gun onto the paneling, so lots of swirly areas where the front of the paper face is gone. The areas look brown now, like a shopping bag. Thanks for the tip about sanding and priming.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

butcherman is infinitely more qualified than i, but when i come across badly mangled walls i skim coat the whole thing. for me it's easier than trying to make a bunch of little patches work. 
put up mesh sheets or window screen and get a couple coats on there and it's as good as new. done this several times over bad surfaces including lath/plaster walls that are separating (first step is to reattach plaster to lath, but that's a differen story). sanding off the loose stuff and pre-priming is also a good idea.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

The thing is when the face paper is peeled off. Which is what happens when the glue is removed. It's loose. Using joint compound over it keeps the face wet at least 12 hours. You get the same effect as if you kept wall paper on a wall wet for twelve hours. It separates and peels. Just in this case it happens in layers. You might not even have to mesh. Sometimes you get away with sand and prime. But is it worth the chance? I have suggested these methods many times and have never had a complaint. Also never had a problem. I know it's a lot of work and seems to be overkill. But trust me, it's worth the effort. You can take a chance, that's up to you. Me personally, I don't like call backs. I do what I can to avoid them. Getting a call back makes me look like an idiot. I have yet to get a call back with this technique and I've been using it for twelve years and it took over twenty to perfect. Trust me on this address, the patches before you skim.


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## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

BUTCHERMAN said:


> The thing is when the face paper is peeled off. Which is what happens when the glue is removed. It's loose. Using joint compound over it keeps the face wet at least 12 hours. You get the same effect as if you kept wall paper on a wall wet for twelve hours. It separates and peels. Just in this case it happens in layers. You might not even have to mesh. Sometimes you get away with sand and prime. But is it worth the chance? I have suggested these methods many times and have never had a complaint. Also never had a problem. I know it's a lot of work and seems to be overkill. But trust me, it's worth the effort. You can take a chance, that's up to you. Me personally, I don't like call backs. I do what I can to avoid them. Getting a call back makes me look like an idiot. I have yet to get a call back with this technique and I've been using it for twelve years and it took over twenty to perfect. Trust me on this address the patches before you skim.


I agree with your method 100 %. I would guess mesh tape isn't really going to help much. All those different layes of paper need to be sealed up and sanded down a bit to achieve a quick smooth finish. If not the layers will continue peeling while you're trying to skim coat. 

I had the same problem in a retail store when I took off some foam board and had to skim it. Came out great when it was all said and done.

In fact, anytime I'm patching a wall and the top layer of paper has come out I always grab the spray primer before I compound.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Hmrepairs, Butcherman is right on the money.
I'd first prime those areas with Gardz.
It will lock everything down before you skim. If you get any blisters after skimming.
Cut them out. Then prime and skim again those areas again.:thumbsup:

-Paul

Here's the link-->http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=221


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Hmrepairs, Butcherman is right on the money.
> I'd first prime those areas with Gardz.
> It will lock everything down before you skim. If you get any blisters after skimming.
> Cut them out. Then prime and skim again those areas again.:thumbsup:
> ...


 
Mix, Who sells Gardz by you? I'm a couple countys South of you and have never seen it yet. 

I've always used oil based Cover Stain. Never failed me but the fumes bother some people.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

I have to see if I can find GARDZ. I have never heard of it. I've been using 123 bull's eye and plaster weld. GARDZ is made for this stuff and would most likely be better. Thanks for the heads up.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Sherwin Williams also sells a similar product called Drywall conditioner.
Link-->http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/products/drywall_conditioner/


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

I had this same issue before and used the Zinsser oil based primer. I haven't seen Guardz around here... anyway, it worked good and there was only a few bubbles to cut out after the first slick


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## Rouerplastering (Sep 6, 2010)

*







Bond new plaster to any structurally sound interior surface. *

It provides enhanced plaster adhesion to surfaces like gypsum plaster, cinder block, stone, drywall panels, and other similar materials.
 









This is what I use. It works great and is a little thicker than primers. I also mesh tape the problem areas before I put it on with a paint roller. Your local home improvement store should have it.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Have done this type of work many times. Anytime the paper is messed up its best to prime and then do your floating. Even when the paper is just peeling a little (wallpaper removal) if you try to float it will work but the paper boogers a pain and cost more time than priming would. I always use my normal drywall primer, dont see the need to go with an oil based product.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Did a recent job that we removed 4' high beadboard in a dining area and a powder room. They used alot of glue and the drywall paper was quite a mess.

Normally I always seal and skim jobs like this and in this case I chose to remove and replace the drywall in the dining area and seal/skim the powder room. I was also installing all new baseboards too and that helped to sway me to removing it.

99% of the time I skim the damaged walls. arty:


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