# Tile curb detail



## Tpot362 (Dec 30, 2014)

Tile contractors, Help...
I have a client, I designed a walk-in shower for them, with a frameless glass partition. Having a problem with the shower curb, the client wanted glass tile, so it has a glass tile curb with schluter metal edging.
The problem is, the water is collecting on the curb, between the glass and the edging, then following the glass down to the opening and out onto the floor.
The curb is sloped towards the shower, but still gathers water.
Any ideas, other than ripping out curb and redoing tile and edging?


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

Trythis website, crlaurence.com look under shower door wipes and seals.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

You might be able to fix with a seal, but the seal will eventually fail due to friction and movement.

You could also try and add something to the curb to damn the water before it gets to the opening.

Side note: Why wasn't the door installed in the middle or at least an inch away from the outside of the curb? Elbow room?

And is there no clamp or channel at the bottom?

EDIT: After a recent debacle I am gun shy with glass.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Couldn't you just add a small spot of silicone at the opening to prevent water from exiting the shower?

I would think this would also act as a dam and divert the water back into the shower.


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## Mr Knucklehead (May 31, 2014)

Drill weep holes at the grout lines just under or thru the metal edging along the shower side to allow water to drain off the curb and back into the shower. Then apply a bead of clear silicone along the inside bottom edge of the glass partition

What you created is a track


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Mr Knucklehead said:


> Drill weep holes at the grout lines just under or thru the metal edging along the shower side to allow water to drain off the curb and back into the shower. Then apply a bead of clear silicone along the inside bottom edge of the glass partition
> 
> What you created is a track


Huh? Drill weep holes?


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2014)

From what I understand you picked too large of a profile, and it is resting slightly higher than the tile (looks like a 3/8 when you needed a 5/16), creating a little spillway that runs towards and out of the entrance of the shower? 

For future referance profiles should set just below the surface of the tile just like grout, many people choose the wrong size trying to account for the thickness of the thin set.:no:

Anyways if what I am assuming is correct then really your best option would be to pull the inside profile, and tiles on the top of the curb and replace the profile with a new 5/16 one, It really wouldn't be all that difficult.

Or you could also adhere a small rubber strip in the opening to dam the water inside the shower.


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

What do the plans call for?


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Mr Knucklehead said:


> Drill weep holes at the grout lines just under or thru the metal edging along the shower side to allow water to drain off the curb and back into the shower. Then apply a bead of clear silicone along the inside bottom edge of the glass partition
> 
> What you created is a track



That makes no sense. To the OP it probably would have been fine if the curb was slightly sloped.


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## Mr Knucklehead (May 31, 2014)

"Huh? Drill weep holes?"




avenge said:


> That makes no sense. To the OP it probably would have been fine if the curb was slightly sloped.



I know guys it sounds over the top, but let's face it they don't call me Knucklehead in charge for nothing. 

I think I understand his problem. He created a viaduct (via duck vi not a chicken) 

The water is probably 3/16 inch deep (maybe deeper depending on surface tension) between the glass and the metal edging that runs parallel to it on the inside side of the shower floor. 

I'm not saying just bore holes all over the place and compromise the waterproofing. I'm saying make precision holes where the grout line intersects the metal edging with the holes at a slight down angle. You probably would not notice the holes if you can get just below the edging on the shower side. Just make a channel, a tunnel. If the curb is pitched it will drain.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

There's just too many problems that can arise from drilling weep holes. As you mentioned you could compromise the waterproofing. There is no way to precisely do it, IMO. I also think that you are introducing areas for mold and mildew to grow. Biological debris will collect as the water drains. These areas will be nearly impossible to keep clean.

The better way to handle it is to fix the issue. Pull the edging and install edging that will allow for drainage is the right way to resolve the issue fully. However, I still believe that a diverter at the door would be sufficient.


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## Mr Knucklehead (May 31, 2014)

TNT, I agree sometimes you need to take two steps backward before you can go forward. 

Just trying to come up with a reasonable solution to a badly designed curb. I know what I'm thinking and I've installed plenty of that edging so I understand how it is in place, but never installed it in that type of installation. Besides that edging detail is not water tight, water will still migrate under the edging and create a mold/mildew issue. 

Also, glass does not meet the required COF for a floor surface in a wet location. It's bad all around.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

When I have done showers like this which had a knee wall or curb the glass panel had a curve or a 90 angle at the end to stop water from doing this and to stop water from getting out side the shower area. Normally we wouldn't even do a curb at all though and have the glass right at the edge of the start of the slope. 

Here's what I'm saying. Perhaps you could do the same thing but only bring it to edge of curb.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Redo the curb. From here it loos as if the pillow shape of the tile is the problem. Can you move the glass to the middle of the curb?

It never should have gotten this far; it should have been stoppped by either the tile setter or the glass contractor.


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## Tpot362 (Dec 30, 2014)

Hello everyone...
I agree, that the profile metal edging, I thought too, was bigger than needed, but the tile company and tile contractor recommended this profile for the glass tile. 
I was wondering also wondering about being able to remove the inside profile and changing to a lower one, but the glass tile is thick.
The glass company and I decided to put the glass track near the front metal profile, so to lined up nicely with the wall tile metal profile, obviously now, it wasn't the best idea, but the client likes the look, and doesn't want to move the glass to the inside, if we can help it.
Which is why I turned to you all, for some problem solving.


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## darthdude (Dec 30, 2012)

Hate to say it, but you've gotta pull something to make this right. You have two spots that can hold water, at the glass and at the inside edging. The glass should probably move inbound and the edging should be redone so water can flow off. You may want to redo the curb to have more slope. The glass tiles do not help things, but with a couple things being different it can work better!


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

Tpot362 said:


> tile company and tile contractor recommended this profile for the glass tile.
> ...
> The glass company and I decided to put the glass track near the front metal profile, so to lined up nicely with the wall tile metal profile,


If you changed something after install, sounds like you have to pay the tile people to demo it and do it again so whatever they do will work with your 'new' design. 

What's going to be hilarious is, is this one of those newfangled foam shower pans and curbs? Some of those new tech things just don't lend themselves well to repairs.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

CO762 said:


> If you changed something after install, sounds like you have to pay the tile people to demo it and do it again so whatever they do will work with your 'new' design.
> 
> What's going to be hilarious is, is this one of those newfangled foam shower pans and curbs? Some of those new tech things just don't lend themselves well to repairs.


I don't know if many good techniques that lend themselves to repair well.

If it is built right it should be a biatch to take apart.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

just throw down some sand bags


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I don't know if many good techniques that lend themselves to repair well.
> If it is built right it should be a biatch to take apart.


One of the older school mud pans/curbs would be an easy demo and repair...but no one does that style anymore. I'd bet there's wood/foam in there and the kicker will be how the waterproofing was done. If it's foam, probably take the curb and pan out and first course, then do all of that over again--with the design set beforehand and everyone agreeing on how it will work/function. Then listen to everyone on the internet talk about inadequate waterproofing on the walls where the repair was done--the joint....

If the walls are also foam/denshield too, another ouch. Tuff gig and may have to put lipstick on that pig or redo the whole thing. Don't know about the foam though as I've never done any, so just speculating. 

....or just move the glass....


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