# Filling nail holes in trim



## Teetorbilt

Just curious in what product everyone else was using. One of my trim guys uses a caulk that doesn't agree with paint, another uses something that shrinks like crazy and the 3rd uses something like acrylic spackle that is sandpaper resistant. 

I've just realised that this a bottom line issue for the painters.

With the fuel and ins. issues, I'm streamlining like crazy.


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## DecksEtc

I've always used latex caulk but I'm no painting expert. I'm sure they'll be along soon for you Teetor.


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## ProWallGuy

Elmers:


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## specwood

Dap makes a painters putty that works well. Its like a thicker version of glazing compound. Glazing compound works too. 

Minwax makes a white putty which is just like thier colored stuff and we just used that recently and it works pretty well. 

All of these are soft and remain so for a while. I would only recommend for small nail holes and very small gaps.

For larger problem areas on painted surfaces we use auto body filler. Put in on heavy, and slice it off with a very sharp chisel before it gets too hard, then sand smooth. Shrinkage won't be a problem.

Caulk on nail holes usually leaves the owner's fingerprint on the wood.:thumbdown


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## Robie

I've switched to vinyl spackling for nail holes. Dries fast, very easy to sand.
For non-painted surfaces, filling the holes is the last thing I do, I use the colored wax sticks.


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## old27

One-Time

http://www.reddevil.com/productDetail.cfm?id=0541RT&c=pr&cat=47


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## JustaFramer

Crawfords spackling paste. Low shrinkage and is wet sandable.


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## plazaman

Rehabs painters caulk, but it shrinks, and more than often its visible.

Others, wood filler, 99% of the time i dont need to sand after i apply wood filler to trim. when i apply it, i use my hand to even it out.


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## GPI

We use lightweight shrink free spackeling for painted trim. apply with finger or putty knife, light sand and nail holes are invisible. Stained wood, use oil color putty only after the wood has been sealed or the oils in the putty will stain the wood which there is no return once its in the pores...


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## 1KingOfDrywall

*It depends if the mold is getting stained or painted...*

(keep in mind this is coming from a drywaller)....but I use durabond mixed in a pan with a little plus 3.....ONLY IF ITS GETTING PAINTED OF COURSE. I can touch up an entire house quick. I've only been asked to do it a few times but it works great. Say for example you got an old doorway inside the house that has the old markings of the old door hinges. I take some dry 5 minute durabond and work it.....lol
100% perfect in less than 10 minutes.....ready to paint.:no:


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## Scott Young

i have used various things, but at the moment i am using 'plastic wood'.


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## highlife77

Patch N Paint for painted trim work, colored wood filler on stainable...after the stain. sometimes I have to mix a couple diff. tubes to get the right color or mix a little stain w/ Natural filler ... I use bondo for big jobs like door jambs or building up a window sills..works great..Elmers has a White wood filler out now...I picked a couple up the other day at walmart on clearance but I haven't used it yet so we'll see...since it was a clearance item, who knows.


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## Danahy

Pink Dap spackle


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## Tom M

Had a painter use glazing compound and it looks great 2 years later no shrinking. He literally put it on then painted.


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## TimNJ

I use MH Spackling Paste by Zinsser. Dries fast and shrink resistant. I only putty the outside nail holes on the doors I hang. Anything inside I leave for the painter.


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## thom

I use E-Z sand. doesn't shrink, dries fast, easy to sand. I put it on with a 1" knife and rarely need to sand. For baseboard inside corners I use latex caulk. I try to leave a small gap to squeeze the caulk in. It stays flexible and holds well. Oftentimes requires a second coat.


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## C.C.R.

filling nail holes is the painters job


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## RLGC

I agree filling holes should be the painters job,however if you care what the finished product looks like don't count on the painter. best bet is to do a neat trim job and use brads where possible. (Smaller holes.) Bondo for the big gaps is preferable. spackle works or anything HD has cheap for the small holes


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## twlinks

Sure, slap it up, bang it full of holes and then HOPE the painter is going to do a good job of filling YOUR holes before he paints. I know that in a lot of areas, the painter is expected to fill the holes...however, my contention would be "Why would you trust someone else to do that?" If he does a crappy job, it's a reflection on your work as well as his.

Just my .02 worth, but I'm not trusting my work to anyone else.


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## Luke's Dad

*Here's whay I use!!*

Dap "33" glazing compound. Just rub a little in the nail hole and you can paint over it almost right away! Doesn't shrink or crack! :thumbup: :thumbup: 

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=66


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## lshomesolutions

Dap crackshot is what we use


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## smalpierre

I usually paint my own work. I fill with wood filler, and use a wet rag when it's dry. I shoot 15 ga. into framing for most trim, 18 ga brads into other trim for small stuff like shoe. I have used the pink vinyl spackle, but only to fill nail holes in old drywall when I don't already have a mud pan going, but we're talking about trim.

I would never use caulk. A painter I used to use used caulk for everything. I didn't like it, and he refused to use something that wouldn't shrink / show nail holes. He also liked switching up paints, and all but refused to oil base doors / trim even though I specified before he bid. He used latex on a job I spec'd oil on, and that's why I paint my own jobs now. Less hassle, and I make more money. I got to where I only have a sparky, and a plumber. I only have a sparky because of licensing, and I'm working on fixing that too. My plumber is awesome though 

Edit: I have a cabinet guy too, because I don't want to invest in the equipment. He works alone, and when I asked him why he has 3 huge table saws - "one for rips, one for crosscut, one for dado ..." Not an investment I want to make unless he pisses me off REALLY bad


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## designbuildnj

*calking*

Yes I know my friend, sometimes it can be more cost effective to sub work out ssuch as the painting of cabinets, I think I would do the same tking.

www.designbuildnj.com


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## Ole34

glazing for NC or jobs not worth the effort...........wood filler and a rag for most jobs...........wood filler and sand paper for a glass finish


on average i use wood putty and a rag for all the low work and putty/sand paper for anything eye level


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## Sweebs

Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, interior/exterior, 

accepts oil, gel and water based stains

latex based, quick drying, sandable, soap & water clean up


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## vwnuck

i use pink dap drydex on nail holes, don't put heaps on just enough to fill the hole. sand and you are good to paint. i caulk the top with painters caulking... that seems to work well... the drydex if you put enough on it has limited shrink....


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## dmr2701

*best stuff to date*

Pink Dap Spackle (Drydex) is the best I've used. Done well, there is very little sanding and it doesn't shrink hardly at all. Also, changes color when it's dry. Doug w/ D&S, 36 years exp.


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## hewdamwright

*spackle nail holes*

latex chaulk good but flashes as well as auto filler wtf which flashes worse wood filler is good but even the stainable shows i quit buying small cups of filler for five bucks to just sit on the shelf and get hard after awhfile if you do drywall repairs you should have a bag of twenty minute drywall mud this stuff dries fast hard as concrete sands eazy hardly ever flashes doesnt set on the shelf and get hard but its not stainable:thumbup:


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## hgoldfein

dap fast and final. or sometimes we use 20/20. structo light for gaps.


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## Robinson_Cnst

Crawfords hands down. Easy to work with and sands like butter.


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## Tylerwalker32

I use drydex, and sometime I used the PL wood filler. Depends on the job both work great for me.


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## Jason Whipple

I use Drydex for paint grade work.


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## Rich D.

Anyone use durhams water putty?


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## Dirtywhiteboy

dmr2701 said:


> Pink Dap Spackle (Drydex) is the best I've used. Done well, there is very little sanding and it doesn't shrink hardly at all. Also, changes color when it's dry. Doug w/ D&S, 36 years exp.


I like the Pink stuff too:thumbsup:


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## andeeznuts

the little blue lid of spackle not sure of the name but roll up a ball and let it dry out a little then fill wipe with your and and ready for paint


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## Squidhead

I used to use light weight spackle but I would occasionally miss areas on the clean up and have globs of now hardened spackle that are painted over. I never thought about the pink stuff for it. At least I can see if I miss a glob of it. I'm going to try it tomorrow. I was using DAP painters laytex and still will for along the edges. The corners, splices and nail holes that stuff has been giving me trouble with shrinking the last couple years. Especially this time of year when the heats on. 
I considered using window glazing but I thought you HAD to use oil base for that to cure?


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## Rich D.

I just used the white ellmers wood filler in the squeeze tube. Dried fast.. I liked it. Will buy again 

The pl solvent based wood filler in the can is very good also. Just smelly!

Alex fast dry for all seams and on top of trim.


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## Rich D.

Squidhead said:


> I considered using window glazing but I thought you HAD to use oil base for that to cure?



Never heard of that? I've used the stuff and it dried without the paint no problem


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## Dirtywhiteboy

Squidhead said:


> I used to use light weight spackle but I would occasionally miss areas on the clean up and have globs of now hardened spackle that are painted over. I never thought about the pink stuff for it. At least I can see if I miss a glob of it. I'm going to try it tomorrow.


The Pink stuff only Pink when it's wet,, when dry it's white and ready to sand.


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## Squidhead

Rich D. said:


> I just used the white ellmers wood filler in the squeeze tube. Dried fast.. I liked it. Will buy again
> 
> The pl solvent based wood filler in the can is very good also. Just smelly!
> 
> Alex fast dry for all seams and on top of trim.


I went to the DAP website. It used to say "use only" oil based paint unless you let it cure for a few days. Now the lable just reccomends using oil based paint. That was the canned stuff. The laytex tube just says let it dry then paint it with anything. It also said it took several days to dry. I used to like the DAP "33" stuff in the can because it would mold real nice into the crack and when you painted it, it would smooth out with the brush and the joints where undetectable.

Used the Pink stuff today and I wasn't too impressed. I guess I'll keep on trying until I get something I like to work with. I have quite a few Crown jobs coming. Maybe I'll try the Elmers again.


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## Railman

I go with Peete'sfeets method of filling after sealer with oil based putty.:thumbsup: 
http://www.colorputty.com/
Back in the 80's 95% of the homes I trimmed were all stained woodwork. All the painters used the same putty system. One little trick I'vbe learned is to make the putty match on the light side of the stain...that is make it match the light part of the grain. It becomes near invisible that way.
I've used Minwax brand, but it dries out too fast in the can to suit me.
Joe


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## Janos

Only one problem burns in when painted


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## BigPoppa

On painted trim we use a product called Plastic Wood which dries FAST and is easy to sand. On finished wood we usually apply all finish coats but our final then burn in a color matched filler before final coat goes on. Too many fillers affect the stains absorption and we get blotches if we fill before finish.


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## Scott479

*On an 1840 Victorian I've found the*

most long lasting filler on the very large exterior siding nail heads appears to be plain old glazing compound-I've broken it down alongside known glazing we removed from windows and can see no difference at all. Has anyone here tried Dap 33 for ext. nail sets? Were you succesful in ignoring their suggested 3-7 day wait for compound setting before an oil prime?


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## hdavis

Scott479 said:


> Were you succesful in ignoring their suggested 3-7 day wait for compound setting before an oil prime?


Short answer is yes, but you can't put much pressure on it - it's pretty soft.


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## pappagor

a 8 year old tread i think it is dry :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:


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## dcr00k

I keep a squeeze tube of Dry-dex in my main bag at all times for nail holes. Goes on pink, it's dry when it is white, minimal shrinkage, and you can move fast. Joints require some kind of painter's caulk for flexibility.


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## psmall

Crawfords


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## EPAYNE

JustaFramer said:


> Crawfords spackling paste. Low shrinkage and is wet sandable.


Ill second that


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## TC Guy

*EZ Sand for trim that's getting painted*

EZ Sand in the bag, pick 20, 90, 120 or whatever you have. Mix it so it pushes into the hole nicely, but isn't runny.

If you fill the hole, use a tiny amount on your finger, leave it just "proud" of the hole. When it is dry, you run a sanding sponge over it and with one pass, you have a filled, non-shrunk hole that is ready to PRIME. You do need to prime before painting, or it can flash. Not a big deal on baseboard, but more so on casing at eye level.

EZ Sand doesn't shrink or sag (as long as it is mixed correctly) and sands like a dream if it's just a small nail hole.

A quick sand and vac before priming and you're set.

D


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## jpotk

A painter offered a quick side job to fill nail holes in a new house. He just handed me butter tub filled with joint compound mixed with blue food coloring. Just filled the hole flush then put a small dab over to so they could sand it flush. counted 2,400 holes in 6 hours.

Thats what they did, we use SW 950a caulk. We like it because its a good general purpose caulk that dries fairly quick.


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## Lugnut1968

jpotk said:


> Thats what they did, we use SW 950a caulk. We like it because its a good general purpose caulk that dries fairly quick.


Yeah, it dries fairly quick but shrinks too much for me. I hate being able to see indents where the nail holes are.


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## HomeRxLLC

I use Elmer's pro bond wood filler. way better than caulk, and lasts a lot longer than spackle.


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## Pangdev

*AN amazing trick for filling nail holes*

I have built hundreds of homes. One thing I find extremely tedious is having the nail holes filled on the trim work. My homes have extensive trim mouldings throughout. So when my painting crews arrive, I always ask, what is their favorite method. 
Then i hired a crew that to this day I still use. They filled the holes so fast i had to find out what they were using. THe job surrounding area was smooth and neat and when painted, you couldnt even tell there was a hole there.
They actually were using Glazing Putty. Each crewman was walking around with a ball of white glazing putty. They simply pulled off a small piece and filled each hole. With a slightly damp rag, they wiped the area clean and smooth. They made it look effortless.
Hope this helps - 
Bergen County Contractors - PDI


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## Big Johnson

Pangdev said:


> I have built hundreds of homes. One thing I find extremely tedious is having the nail holes filled on the trim work. My homes have extensive trim mouldings throughout. So when my painting crews arrive, I always ask, what is their favorite method.
> Then i hired a crew that to this day I still use. They filled the holes so fast i had to find out what they were using. THe job surrounding area was smooth and neat and when painted, you couldnt even tell there was a hole there.
> They actually were using Glazing Putty. Each crewman was walking around with a ball of white glazing putty. They simply pulled off a small piece and filled each hole. With a slightly damp rag, they wiped the area clean and smooth. They made it look effortless.
> Hope this helps -
> Bergen County Contractors - PDI



I’ll have to try that, I use Timber-mate. I never could get good coverage with spackles. I also glue all my trim work to cut down on nails but that’s another thread.


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## SuperiorHIP

I've been painting for close to 20 years and have never tried glazing putty for filling nail holes. I started out using the yellow elmers stuff for better part of my career and then switched over to crackshot made by DAP I think. Stuff will shrink so you have to leave a belly over the nail hole and sand smooth but it works well. For 15ga nails it takes 2 coats or else you'll see all the nail holes due to the putty sucking up the paint. I'll have to try the glazing.


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## WarnerConstInc.

I hate glazing putty for nail holes. It takes forever to dry and have had it show through before. 



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## rrk

The glazing compound is oily/greasy and has been used for years to fill holes but if not left to dry it will show through. A wet rag will not wipe oil away.


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## Xtrememtnbiker

Doesn't it say something like a 14 day dry time?


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## Leo G

The ultra lightweight stuff works pretty well. Doesn't shrink, dries quick, sands really easy.

I remember buying my first jug. I actually opened it up after I bought it to make sure the jug wasn't empty. It's that light.


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