# I want it over concrete ?



## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Picture #1 shows what I want it made out of - bricks mortared together, I don't want pavestones with sand between them.

Picture #2 shows the pattern of what I want for my front side walk at my house.

Am I crazy to want it built on a concrete pad?

When I installed my flagstone patio in the back I poured a pad and mortared them in place. 5 years later no cracks, no movement, looks like brand new still.

(I won't be doing the work on this project myself, will hire it out)


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Hey Mike, only one pic.

Mortared bricks on a walk, sorta like putting tile on a springy wood floor.

My 2 cents worth.

Didn't see the second pick.

Hey if it worked the first time, have it done again.
I've never seen a mortared one hold up like that.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

Personally, I would do a sand or polymeric sand joint. At least here in New England. Mortar joints become a maintenance nightmare around here.


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

I wouldn't do it that way either, at least not in NY. Too much freeze thaw action. Looks nice though.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

My porch area done with stone over the concrete slab and thinset was used...It's been over 8 years and not a single hairline crack. If it's done right, it should be ok Mike.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

The reason I ask is a couple of contractors I have talked to briefly about it show resistance to pouring concrete first, but I get the feeling its only because they don't want to deal with the extra hassles involved, they act to me like they are used to or want to do work like wham bam, in and out. I'm willing to go to the extra expense of the extra work.


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## stacker (Jan 31, 2006)

id say,its your job,at your house,with your money.whoever you talked to should be able to understand that.hell i jump at a little extra work and money on a job.


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

This is exact concept I used to work with back home in Italy where people wanted something stable that is not going to fall apart and have weed growing in between.
Koodos to you for using it,love it.

I always try to push mortarted pavers even here in Winnipeg,though mostly in areas with stable ground.


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

As long as you prep the sub grade properly and maybe throw in a couple sticks of rebar here and there, you should be good to go. I would also use thinset to adhere the brick. 

If this is an area that will be shoveled during snow season it will be a PITA and don't even think of taking an ice chopper to it.

The pattern in the second picture is a Herringbone pattern. Just so you can look smart in front of the sub:laughing:


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

Now that you guys have said it, we did a bluestone job like that using thinset and it has held for 5 years now.

We basically poured the walk they wanted, but 3 inches lower than normal, then used thinset to set and grout with. Expensive and a little harder to clean up, but it worked.

I totally forgot about that job too, and whats funny is that a year later we had a call back to fix two popped stones, we ran out of thinset and used Type S to set the last two, guess which ones popped.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Thinset - as in tile setting thinset?

You don't think its possible to lay them flat enough to be able to shovel snow off them?


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

Mike Finley said:


> The reason I ask is a couple of contractors I have talked to briefly about it show resistance to pouring concrete first, but I get the feeling its only because they don't want to deal with the extra hassles involved, they act to me like they are used to or want to do work like wham bam, in and out. I'm willing to go to the extra expense of the extra work.


Unless you are gonna park a bus on it, a sand base is fine. What kills it is lack of preparation and drainage.


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

Build that slab super strong and the bricks over top of it will be great and the joints should stay tight. Additive in the grout/mortar will help a lot. I can't stand over sand/quarry dust as the the bricks eventually get loose over time. If you can keep the salt and water out of the joints, then it should last a long time.

Good luck!


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## ApgarNJ (Apr 16, 2006)

Mike Finley said:


> Thinset - as in tile setting thinset?
> 
> You don't think its possible to lay them flat enough to be able to shovel snow off them?


If the bricks are uniform enough and a thick enough mud bed is used under, I would think you should have no problem shoveling off the bricks for snow removal.


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

We've done them with thinset over concrete. You'll be good to go. Rebar it nice and make sure its a good mix, then start laying brick. I think a type S mortar mixed a little rich and your joints will last for years. 

As a side project, you could lay that heat wire for gutters or flooring, something with on outdoor rating, to see if you can heat it up and help keep the snow off. You wont want to throw salt on it.


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

Mike Finley said:


> Thinset - as in tile setting thinset?
> 
> You don't think its possible to lay them flat enough to be able to shovel snow off them?


Yup same thinset. IMO any horizontal joint should be struck flat not concave. But most people do not like the look of a flat joint. Water will lay in the joints and cause damage such as freezing. Which can crack the joints or even pop the faces off of the brick. If you must have a concave joint you will want it to be as shallow as possible. As far as the snow. Yes it will be flat enough to shovel. But if you really want to get the walkway clean, you will be catching your shovel on some joints at times.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

You would think he is trying to build a shopping center. Just pour it and brick it. Hire someone that does good work and dont salt it. Apply a sealant to it every 5 years.


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## KennMacMoragh (Sep 16, 2008)

I think it mostly has to do with how you prepare your base. If you are worried about frost heave or ground settlement, dig down deeper and place gravel under your slab with a vapor barrier over it, use re-bar too. But it depends on the soil conditions and weather in your area.


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