# texturing a celing



## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

I just put up a celing in a living room and was thinking that texturing it would be the easiest finishing solution as opposed to sanding it flat... am i correct??.. What would be the easiest way to texture it? .. i've put up a few ceilings in the past and looking back they looked pretty amature..Any ideas would be appreciated.. Thanks


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

fast pasquale said:


> I just put up a celing in a living room and was thinking that texturing it would be the easiest finishing solution as opposed to sanding it flat... am i correct??.. What would be the easiest way to texture it? .. i've put up a few ceilings in the past and looking back they looked pretty amature..Any ideas would be appreciated.. Thanks


Texturing is always easier than raising your arms above your head and sanding away while getting dust poured on your face and eyes.
That buring sensation in your arms and back is not something too many people get used to.
Texturing is also good at hiding flaws on the ceiling...


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## Chris_M (Mar 24, 2007)

You could do a knockdown or lastly popcorn, I hate that stuff. I think it was invented by a finisher that sucked.


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

I guess im really not familiar with how to apply these ideas/techniques.. if you could be a bit more technical, i would greatly appreciate it.. thanks so much for your time.


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

AtlanticWBConst said:


> Texturing is also good at hiding flaws on the ceiling...


Unfortunately it's also symbol of being tacky and cheap...it's going out of style as fast as wallpaper

...least up here anyway


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

fast pasquale said:


> I guess im really not familiar with how to apply these ideas/techniques.. if you could be a bit more technical, i would greatly appreciate it.. thanks so much for your time.


texture requires a gun and hopper...you spray it...it's messy as hell and I'd opt not to do it...

ceilings are fine with a good dust mask, some open windows, and some elbow grease :thumbsup:


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

Paintguy26 said:


> Unfortunately it's also symbol of being tacky and cheap...it's going out of style as fast as wallpaper
> 
> ...least up here anyway


I agree, the advice I posted was geared to those that are not experienced with the skill or ability to create a 'level 5' ceiling finish....


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

Paintguy...realize that if a poster is asking the questions listed on this type of thread...he/she needs help based on his/her ability level. 

Ceilings show *everything*. They show the experienced tapers from the newbies and rookies. 

If a poster is asking obvious rookie questions (Should I try to make it smooth or try to texture it?) ... I am not going to tell them to sand and get it smooth. 

... When was the last time you saw a rookie create a perfectly smooth flawlessly finished ceiling? (Picture a sun-lit main room)

In this case the poster is asking for what is going to be the best advice for their skill level ... and what will create the best results...for them....


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Paintguy26 said:


> Unfortunately it's also symbol of being tacky and cheap...it's going out of style as fast as wallpaper


Hey now, you watch your mouth! :jester:


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

ProWallGuy said:


> Hey now, you watch your mouth! :jester:


Ha, ha...:laughing:


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

Atlantic.. yes .. i agree with you.. i dont want to use the hopper and gun..any other ideas???


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

fast...they make a roll on texture as well

have you researched texture on the web? you'll see more of what we're talking about

PWG...sorry man, I know you and wallpaper are tight, lol


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## drywallet (Feb 26, 2007)

mix up the all purpose mud, not the light weight, pretty thin, use a thick paint roller and roll the celing like your painting it. Roll one way then cross roll it. Get a texture brush at any hardware store put it on the end of a handle and slap the celing using a back and forth method.


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*roll-stomp knockdown*

take a bucket of green label and add a few pans of water to it.
take a paint roller and roll it on the ceiling evenly-go quick
now back roll-going "against the grain" spreding it out thin and even
take your stomp brush and tap in randomly very quickly 
take a 5 minute break
take a knock down blaDE(NOT a KNIFE) and knock it down very lightly
:thumbsup:


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

Here, our standard ceiling texture is Brocade. It's done with a padded hod. 

There is no way to do a decent texture without experience. You can't read a description an make it look right. That would be just as difficult as reading a description of tape and float then properly finishing.

Around here, if you didn't texture your house would be "unfinished" It's the standard.

Texture doesn't hide crappy finishing. Texturing a 2000 sq ft house takes about 3 man days, maybe 4, so it doesn't really save time either. You still have to float and sand. Any ridges at floated edges will show through. Little pits and bubble holes will probably be hidden. After texturing, walls become a bigger issue than ceilings. The ceiling texture breaks the flat plane pretty well but the wall texture shows its own consistency (or lack thereof) and the flaws in the walls.


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*doesn't cover bad finishing??*

My friend a roll stomp knockdown would cover paper taped seams.
Are you kidding? I've done restorations where I had a paint flaking ceiling with crappy patch work done.......me and the boys went in.....rolled on some 90 minute easy sand, stomped it and knocked it down. The Investor thought we put new drywall in. As far as 2000 sq ft. That take 1/2 to spray and 1/2 day power sand. If you are roll stomping with a knockdown a 2000sq ft should only take 2 guys a day right? Just curious how you do it. 2 guys roll out an entire garage walls and all in under 2 hours 2 1/2 car garages. roll stomp on ceiling and rolled out on walls:jester:


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

1KingOfDrywall said:


> My friend a roll stomp knockdown would cover paper taped seams.
> Are you kidding? I've done restorations where I had a paint flaking ceiling with crappy patch work done.......me and the boys went in.....rolled on some 90 minute easy sand, stomped it and knocked it down. The Investor thought we put new drywall in. As far as 2000 sq ft. That take 1/2 to spray and 1/2 day power sand. If you are roll stomping with a knockdown a 2000sq ft should only take 2 guys a day right? Just curious how you do it. 2 guys roll out an entire garage walls and all in under 2 hours 2 1/2 car garages. roll stomp on ceiling and rolled out on walls:jester:


I will have to agree with King.....*Properly* applied Texture really does hide the biggest nightmares...


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*He might have been thinking of a different texture*

I can see a spray texture not covering...but anything rolled on seems to cover anything. Once I was doing some work on a bi-level home. And downstairs had concrete block about 4 course high running the perimeter of the whole room. I rolled some 90 minute easy sand and stomped and knocked it down......you would never know. Home owner wanted it.....I delivered. :thumbsup:


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

1KingOfDrywall said:


> I can see a spray texture not covering...but anything rolled on seems to cover anything.


Agreed. 

When it comes to spray texture, we finish it up as if it were going to be a smooth ceiling or wall....then we spray it....


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

King. I will take your advice.. So I'll get the green label... water it down a bit.. and get a thick roller and roll it on in one direction.. then immediately roll it perpendicular to how i rolled it first??..(Do you mean roll it on east to west.. then north and south.. or roll east TO west.. then immediately west TO east???... stomp it... wait.. the knock it down.. The room is 20x15.. Im assuming i should do half the ceiling??.. then the other half.... or should i do the whole thing at once???? Much appreciated... want to do this today and didn't find much specific on the web...Any other tricks of the trade i should know??... Also Im assuming to tape and mud the joints as if i were to make the ceiling flat..THEN texture???


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*yes......definitely mud the seams*

As far as the other questions......is there any possibility you can get a guy to help you out with rolling? Let him roll about 1/4 of the room than you start stomping behind him......if you can't get help, than roll 1/4 fast than stomp, than another 1/4 and stomp and so on. You gotta do this quick. the whole process shouldn't take longer than 20 minute. make sure there is no direct wind-air blowing as that would make the tips dry first. Before knocking it down, get your hand wet and rub it up and down the knockdown tool. Start in a corner and pull the blade lightly.....if you pull any mud off and it's almost like going smooth--STOP and wait a few more minutes. Now if you start pulling and it's drying up on you.....keep some water on your blade and finish. once it dries use some 150 sand paper and dust if it looks bad.......??? Good luck. :thumbsup:


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

Nah.. im going solo on this one.. Well today i got some 90 and taped and mudded all the joints and screw heads. Tomorrow i was wondering if i should start rolling on texture or should i do another pass with the mudd on the joints??
Are you saying that 1/4 of the celing should take 20 minutes roll.. stomp and knock down??
Also.. do you like the black bristles or the straw like bristles..(I'm referring to Home depot products???..the one that has the straw like bristles also has the double bristle attachment... 
Sorry for all the questions but im really learning alot and appreciate all your help..:thumbup:


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*Black bristles.........*

LMAO.....20 minutes for all ceiling. I would say between rolling 1/4 than stomping and so on......20-30 most or it's gonna dry. No time to be neat Bro....you gotta dunk that roller and roll your ass off!!!! Maybe this is a bad idea for me to be giving advice on this one?? I wish was there to lend a hand.....there is really nothing to it. Roll Fast and be sure it's evenly spread. try not to think about it.....just go thru the motions.
Apply just enough pressure that the roller is turning slowly --1 pass should go 4-8 feet depending on the roller and the thickness of the texture.......just make it even. one roll at a time-one strip, than another, than another-all side by side. Than back roll-WHEN you back roll you DO NOT add more mud to roller-just spread out evenly what is there--Good luck--I'm rooting for you:thumbsup:


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

Here in NJ, I have never encountered a textured ceiling.

One great tool to help with butts on ceilings is: 

www.butttaper.com

I am a very solid finisher and even so, I have started to use this on all my butts because it makes a perfectly flat joint and uses very little compound.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Nice tool I just checked it out


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

Ok.. since i was desperately hoping for a reply last night..but didn't get it... ....haha.. oh well... here's what i did... 
Thinned out some all purpose (2.5 gallons with about 3/4 cup of water).. and got a 3/4 inch roller.. and rolled the ceiling with compound.. i saw that it was leaving a "textured" look.. so i was fine with that ...(told you i wanted the quick and ez way out).. Came to find out 1/4 way through that my taping and mudding was showing through... so i let that dry for a few hours and came back and re-applied more mud..same way.. then stomped it with the black bristle on a pole. My main problem was ...in retrospect... i was applying the stuff to thin...It looks... well ... not bad... not perfect.. you can tell where i rolled there are lines every 14inches or so.. but i think that when i prime tomorrow..it'll al blend it.. we'll see.. if not .. when the primer dries.. ill do one last coat perpendicular to the previous two coats. I know most of you are laughing at me..as would/do i when i read posts on diyers refinishing their own floors.. but.. i really do appreciate the info.. i know how much you want to all tell me... "HIRE A PRO!".. but thanks again every one.. it looks good.... by me.. By the way.. i thought my frickin head was going to fall off, all that lookin up.... I can see some neck soreness in my future!! lol


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*Damn Bro......I see your from Cleveland....*

I hate seeing someone stranded. I'm only right over here in Youngstown. You shoulda just utilized the King's On Call Repair service.....few hundred bucks and you'd be sittin nice right now.
Hope it all turns out ok. I woulda been in and out Bada-bing!!


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

Thanks King.. maybe i'll look you up next time.. It came out fine by me.... it's primed and painted.. Thanks again for the info.. much appreciated!!:thumbsup:


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## DANO 63 (Apr 17, 2007)

*to texture or not to texture ??*

i agree that if you do not have a lot of exsperiance or have the nack of texturing dowm it can be messy and you may not hide your mistakes , now a knock down is a diferent way to go and after aplying tape and maby 1and a half coats of mudd you simply aply mudd by either spraying or use a stomp brush , wait for the glossyness of the mud to go away then simply knocck down with a knockdown knife , they are plastic and flexible and pretty easy to get a desired look , it is a kinda :thumbsup: adobe southwest look ... dano...


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## fast pasquale (Mar 4, 2007)

Dano.. well after is was all said and done.. i still could see my taped lines.. kind of a bummer after all that time.. but..i think my error was not knocking down my mudding of the joints in combonation with not applying (rolling) the mud on heavy enough when i was texturing.. what do you think.. all in all.. i was so close.. 
i figure when this tenant moves out...ill prime (do i need to prime if i want to apply mud over a painted ceiling??).. give it another dose of mud nice and heavy.. and re-prime then paint.. 
Thanks


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## Drywall1 (Dec 12, 2005)

Not realistic in the real world sorry. Anyone who does production work will tell ya that. But HO's eat that stuff up!

Nate



Greg Di said:


> Here in NJ, I have never encountered a textured ceiling.
> 
> One great tool to help with butts on ceilings is:
> 
> ...


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

Out here texture is standard, ceilings, walls, the works. If you don't texture, your house will be considered unfinished. So, I have a lot of experience with texture.

Texture does not hide crappy work. It does not hide unfinished joints. It will hide small imperfections, but not visible tape lines.

I've seen texture over unfinished (tape only) joints. It looks just like what it is. 

Don't paint the ceiling or you will never be satisfied. Take a big sponge, wash off the texture, do it correctly. Finish, then sand your joints, then texture if you want a texture finish.


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*?? How light is the texture you are applying???*

With the exception of a splatter texture any rolled on or knife applied texture should cover. I've done it over concrete block and totally 100% covered it??? I've done it over paint flaked ceilings and they covered as well. What kinda textures do you do? I am curious. How do you apply them? Why don't they cover.?


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Here in Maryland texture is vitually UNHEARD of, except in older homes or by request of a homeowner..

New construction however..commercial or residential..

NADA..

I am talking Stipple, popcorn, etc..


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## raven2006 (Dec 19, 2006)

I just started spraying texture ceilings. I've been using the pre-mix texture mud, but was wondering if regular mud works as well. The texture stuff doesn't look much different, it's just more expensive. I just spray a light stipple.


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*Raven......*

I get awesome results from actually spraying Easy sand and knocking it down. Another good one is wetting down plus 3. See.....the problem is that regular joint compound shrinks....ALOT. Notice if you ever spotted a wall screw with regular joint compound how it dimples in?? It shrinks alot. Now plus 3 still may take 2 coats on a screw which shows you that it shrinks a little....NOW....easy sand HUMPs screw out...NO shrinkage at all. You actually gotta sand it down. If you evr have the oppurtunity......wet down a bucket of easy sand 90 minute and go to it.
It looks awesome......OH....MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN OUT YOUR SPRAY GUN IMMEDIATELY WHEN YOU ARE DONE. You dont want that crap hardening up in your gun.
Give it a try:thumbsup:


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## raven2006 (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks for the tips...I just finished my first bigger ceiling job (I'd done a few tiny rooms here and there) and despite all my worrying, it turned out awesome. I taped the ceiling with two coats of mud then sprayed a couple coats of primer with the airless then sprayed a fine texture and it looked really good and the customer had no clue it was my first one...wow, it's alot of work tho, I still don't know why people always want the texture. I did do extra good taping and everything to be on the safe side, cause wow it would suck if the customer didn't like it and you had to redo it..


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## Gerard (Apr 14, 2007)

*The best texture..hands down!!*

If your looking to texture a ceiling, and want the end result to look great, I am going to describe to you as best I can a form of texturing that can actually add VALUE to the home, Hide a lot of sins, and has a lasting to WOW factor to those who see it. Most people will think I am refering to (Stucco) when they read this, however this is not the case but the technique is somewhat similar. Tools and material required in no particular order..Sanding sponges, pole sander, enough primer to cover your surface twice, ready mix or joint compound...has to be the premix, a broke in 14" flat trowel, Hawk or mud board, broom handle or paint roller handle, 4"knife, 6"knife, philips screw driver on hand, a mixer for thining your mud..a stick will work if you have patience and no mixer, and finally you will need what is called a crows foot texture brush or even better is a double crows foot texture brush. It is very important to have ALL of these things on hand as once you start this type of high end texture you cant stop till it is done (Very Important) You should also have 2 people for this job. And time wise your looking at about no more then 20 mins-30mins for a 14 x 20 ceiling..Application time, prep and clean up takes longer. First and foremost is to have you seams and smooth as possible, sand away those edges, sand your angles, don't worry too much about sanding the screws for this project, once you feel you have it sanded well enough, Using only a GOOD primer, ask around your local hardware stores for the best primer they carry. Primer your ceilings and when dry check it for defeciencies and fix them if any, reprime these areas, or the whole ceiling again if you had too many touch ups. Now your ready for texture, put your mud in a CLEAN 5 gallon bucket, depending how thick it is determines how much water you will need to add to it, Your going to need to add at least 2 large coffee cups guaranteed, so start with that, mix it WELL. the consistancy your looking for is not thick at all but by no means to runny to control (hard to explain that) Once your happy with your mix. Your ready to put it on, this is where two people come in handy, get your double crows foot ready and that will be one mans job to use it. the others is to start troweling on the mud. If you trowel this on to heavy your going to hate me for writting this and your ceiling is going to look worse. So Thin thin thin is what you want, start off a small patch in one corner a couple feet in both directions, leave this a little heavy amd have the other guy stamp his brush in it till he has an even amount of mix on his brush, theres no need to slam the ceiling either, but at the same time love taps like miss daisy won't do either. once the brush is covered, now you can't stop, run your trowel through that patch you just made and start over, thin thin thin, and you should trowel out say 6' x 4 feet at a time, let buddy stamp it in giving quarter turns and half turns non stop if the texture looks to thick trowel through it and go thinner..When I do these ceilings I see primer through some spots while troweling, Yes, that thin..my end result is no more then 1/8"-1/4" at most..any thicker it starts to look like ass. So you have stay going at this, don't stop, try to keep buddy on the brush moving at all times, when you do a section, always keep working into those sections as you DO NOT want these edges to dry up on you. so always overlap a few inches when troweling back into it. Once you have the ceiling completed, Take your 4" knife and create a border around the room by keeping it straight and wiping off the wet mix around the ceiling, if you have a light or ceiling fan in the middle of the room borders look great around these as well, now in the 3 way corners of the room take your 6" knife and place it in the 3 way and wipe a 1/2 turn to create an extra profile that looks amazing. Now just clean up. when everything is dry..Usually the next day, it will always look even nicer then it does when wet, go around all the borders and wipe them down with a wet rag, or you can sand them. Prime your ceiling again to seal it, and the borders, paint them the same color as your walls..I can't imagine anyone being able to follow all this. however anyone who has any experience working with mud and trowels shouldn't have too much a problem, I will post some pics of my work today, reading this and seeing the pics will say a lot more..As always, have a great day.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

Gerard, paragraphs are great. Paragraphs make reading easy. Try it sometime, you might like it.


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## raven2006 (Dec 19, 2006)

Yea I think I need to see some pictures. It sounds interesting tho.


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## [email protected] (Dec 16, 2008)

I need some advice on skip troweling, anyone have any experience and pictures to help me.

Thanks


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## [email protected] (Dec 16, 2008)

Anyone have any experience fixing scratches and and dents in pine flooring? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Why not do a ceiling that is smooth, just base coat then skim coat but you need to know how to use a trowel, use the trowel intil you get the mud as smooth plaster then light pole sand done deal,

www.frankawitz.net


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## Burby (Nov 25, 2008)

Porter Cable 7800 *Drywall* *Sander* - Toolfetch.com

The easiest way to sand drywall, short of having free labor :thumbsup:


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

The porter cable is a nice machine, but for what I said just a light pole sand is all you need if you can smooth the mud out, As for texturing a ceiling, unless it's a stucco finish with a set pattern, to me it says cover up, to poor workmanship. a smooth ceiling says so much more then textures.

www.frankawitz.net


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## Aaron111 (Nov 24, 2007)

*Use a light orange peel tex*



fast pasquale said:


> I just put up a celing in a living room and was thinking that texturing it would be the easiest finishing solution as opposed to sanding it flat... am i correct??.. What would be the easiest way to texture it? .. i've put up a few ceilings in the past and looking back they looked pretty amature..Any ideas would be appreciated.. Thanks


use a light orange peel to do this job call an expert handyman in your area for tips aswell I would go smooth wall to Google texture dry wall videos that will help :clap:


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