# Cutting drywall 4' and corner bead questions



## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

Upcoming project where I'll be cutting drywall 4' on the bottom due to Sandy Flooding. 

How do guys handle the corner bead when cutting the bottom? Do you cut it at the 4' mark and replace the bottom portion or do you completely remove and replace the entire corner bead.

Ive done it both ways, just curious on others practice.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I find it easier to replace the whole stick.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

whole chingadera x2....:thumbsup:


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## LConstruction (Jan 12, 2011)

Replace the whole thing


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

This is getting boring. I change my vote to patch it half way or even three piece it if you have the time or a bunch of small little left overs.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Be careful taking it off....

Recycle & Reuse it......

Now your in the $$$$$$$....:whistling:whistling:laughing:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

plazaman said:


> Upcoming project where I'll be cutting drywall 4' on the bottom due to Sandy Flooding.
> 
> How do guys handle the corner bead when cutting the bottom? Do you cut it at the 4' mark and replace the bottom portion or do you completely remove and replace the entire corner bead.
> 
> Ive done it both ways, just curious on others practice.


Cut the drywall 48.5" from the floor.
As far as the conerbead, It can be done either way. it just depends on the situation.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Unless its 9' ceilings at which point figure for stretch.


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## kambrooks (Apr 24, 2012)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> This is getting boring. I change my vote to patch it half way or even three piece it if you have the time or a bunch of small little left overs.


Quite sassy today...


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

kambrooks said:


> Quite sassy today...


Stop it.. : laughing:


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## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Cut the drywall 48.5" from the floor.
> As far as the conerbead, It can be done either way. it just depends on the situation.


Took me a sec but I get cutting at that height, but I am a little shocked you wouldn't vote for full corner bead. I would think the easiest route would be full replacement as it will probably crack out some as you cut it anyway.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> Cut the *drywall* 48.5" from the floor.
> As far as the conerbead, It can be done either way. it just depends on the situation.





r4r&r said:


> Took me a sec but I get cutting at that height, but I am a little shocked you wouldn't vote for full corner bead. I would think the easiest route would be full replacement as it will probably crack out some as you cut it anyway.


I was saying cut the drywall at 48.5", not the cornerbead.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

If the bead is nailed on it will be a real ***** to rip off. Thus adding a lot of time and possibly destroying the drywall and making the new bead difficult to re install.

You may want to try cutting the bead off 3-6'' higher than the drywall. Then chip off a little mud on the bead to make the new joint bond. Also keeps the new drywall joint away from this spot too.

I'm going to give away a trade secret here. To cleanly cut off bead, take your utility knife, hold it at a 90* angle on bead, tap it with hammer, then move point of knife to flanges and tap it through with hammer.

To replace bottom half of bead use 4'-6' straight edge hold tight to upper half and continue plane/line down through new joint.

Good luck with what you decide.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

we would go to approx 52" from floor and line it up for a smooth transition. There is no need to replace the whole thing unless its cracked or dented. To remove we use a zip cut. Way better cut and easier to line up. When cutting cut them at 5 or 10 degrees. that way they are clear, and easier to line up.


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> I find it easier to replace the whole stick.


That's exactly what I do in that situation I rip out and remove all case and base molding


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Why 48 *1/2*" if serious? Why 58? To get past old mud joints/seams?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

boman47k said:


> Why 48 1/2" if serious? Why 58? To get past old mud joints/seams?


48.5" to have a half inch off the floor... No clue why 58" you could do 54.5"and get 54" rock if you wanted to get past the old joint


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Why not 40'' ?


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Because that's just silly.. :laughing:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

boman47k said:


> Why 48 *1/2*" if serious? Why 58? To get past old mud joints/seams?


So the drywall can be a 1/2" off the floor. That helps prevent the drywall from wicking moisture from a concrete floor or water from a minor leak or spill. :thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Big Shoe said:


> Why not 40'' ?


:no:
But, I have been known to cut it at 45 1/2". Anyone know why this makes sense?


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

Just sub it out they will figure it out. I'm sure there are many new qualified storm chasers in your area you can hire.


Replace the whole corner bead and keep the new drywall a 1/2" off the floor.

Cole


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> :no:
> But, I have been known to cut it at 45 1/2". Anyone know why this makes sense?


Because you can't count higher than 46" ?:whistling:whistling:jester:


Cole


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Cole82 said:


> Because you can't count higher than 46" ?:whistling:whistling:jester:
> 
> 
> Cole


:no:
Nice try though. Thanks for playing. :laughing:


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> :no:
> But, I have been known to cut it at 45 1/2". Anyone know why this makes sense?


Well sir Mex that would be because of the 3 inch tapered edge on the sheet rock


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Snobnd said:


> Well sir Mex that would be because of the 3 inch tapered edge on the sheet rock


Yep! :clap:
Because basically it's just one long butt joint. No sense in trying to fill the tappered edge on one side of the repair. :no:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

That's why I suggest 40'' or so. To stay away from the original seam with the screws,tape and recessed edge. 
:thumbup1:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

I just like to cut off the least amount off the new piece off drywall, so I don't have to bend over to far while doing the mud work. But, 40" will work too. :thumbsup:


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## plazaman (Apr 17, 2005)

We did 48.5" and new corner bead.


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## mbryan (Dec 6, 2010)

We do lots of 24.5" cuts and always leave the corner bead. Had guys complain because we took it. We just say the bottom has to go its up to the drywaller what they want to do. I personally prefer to r/r it all the way up.


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## Henn Drywall (Dec 17, 2012)

Big Shoe said:


> If the bead is nailed on it will be a real ***** to rip off. Thus adding a lot of time and possibly destroying the drywall and making the new bead difficult to re install.
> 
> You may want to try cutting the bead off 3-6'' higher than the drywall. Then chip off a little mud on the bead to make the new joint bond. Also keeps the new drywall joint away from this spot too.
> 
> ...


x2

That's the best way to cut the bead off cleanly.


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## I Mester (Aug 21, 2011)

just gut the whole room and install new rock all around! will look much cleaner:whistling


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Or at least the walls


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## GCTony (Oct 26, 2012)

I Mester said:


> just gut the whole room and install new rock all around! will look much cleaner:whistling


30 posts and the only one I can agree with. Unfortunatly the insurance company may fight you.


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## icerock drywall (Aug 16, 2012)

sledge hammer the hole wall down and start over:clap:


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

i just did a project identical to this , a broken pipe in a bathroom overnight caused alot of damage to 3 bedrooms, hallways, bathrooms and living room.

insurance had a demo team come in, and cut out the drywall at 24.5"

made it easy for me to rip drywall sheets in half (24") and install. they also cut the corner bead so i just added the rest of the piece. this is the way to go unless u want to texture the whole wall.


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

GCTony said:


> 30 posts and the only one I can agree with. Unfortunatly the insurance company may fight you.


should get the insurance claim going.
once granted, they will take care of demo and cleanup, send out an estimator and cut a check to the homeowner.


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## lifestooshort81 (Sep 8, 2012)

plazaman said:


> Upcoming project where I'll be cutting drywall 4' on the bottom due to Sandy Flooding.
> 
> How do guys handle the corner bead when cutting the bottom? Do you cut it at the 4' mark and replace the bottom portion or do you completely remove and replace the entire corner bead.
> 
> Ive done it both ways, just curious on others practice.


Hey Plazaman, where are you doing flood repair? I'm I'm new jersey particularly the LBI area. Just wondering maybe we could network...
As far as the corner bead goes, I found it easier to remove and replace the whole piece. Albeit it's really not easier but it's easier in the long run when a customer complains about a crack or a not so perfect match and you have to go back to redo it. 

I managed to do one corner bead at the 4' but spent more time than I wanted to fair the mud in and make it "perfect". 

That's my $0.02 

Al


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

sandshooter said:


> i just did a project identical to this , a broken pipe in a bathroom overnight caused alot of damage to 3 bedrooms, hallways, bathrooms and living room.
> 
> insurance had a demo team come in, and cut out the drywall at 24.5"
> 
> made it easy for me to rip drywall sheets in half (24") and install. they also cut the corner bead so i just added the rest of the piece. this is the way to go unless u want to texture the whole wall.


That makes my back hurt just thinking about it. :laughing:


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## sandshooter (Dec 30, 2012)

Sir Mixalot said:


> That makes my back hurt just thinking about it. :laughing:


Gotta stay in shape to do this kind of work.


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