# quote on refinishing log home exterior?



## hansol04 (Feb 14, 2008)

Hey there,

I landed a gig that consists of refinishing the exterior of a 3200sq/ft 2-story log home (cedar logs) with unattatched 3-car garage, as well as refinishing the 2000sq/ft of cedar decking surrounding the house. 

That being said, I have no idea what I should charge for this kind of work, or what a contract for a job this size usually comes out to. It'll involve chemically stripping the weathering on the logs (6 years worth of the filth at least), power washing, then sanding, and lastly applying a UV timber stain of some sort. 

I was hoping that maybe someone here might know a ballpark figure for a what a job like this normally goes for?

Thanks guys -Cameron


----------



## 98mustangguy (Sep 6, 2007)

$30,000 theres a starting point anyways how do you land a gig with no price anyways?? Just curious cause i would love to be able to land gigs then come up with a price.


----------



## hansol04 (Feb 14, 2008)

haha well it's a long story, but basically it comes down to me having done piece-work at this place a couple times, working at an hourly-rate for the homeowner as a fill-in/weekend job. But it is looking like this refinishing job might turn into a full-time "for-real" job, and if that is the case I want to do it right, as it might lead to other refinishing work in the future. So I'd like to have a ballpark figure that I can tinker with, so I know what to ask for if it turns into the real thing. 

(And if that made any sense at all, I will be extremely happy) Thanks for your input -Cameron


----------



## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

how long do you figure it will take you?


----------



## hansol04 (Feb 14, 2008)

The amount of time it takes to do a job like this was where I was hoping you experienced guys could chime in. I really have no way of gauging what amount of time each "step" typically takes, as I don't feel I'm experienced enough to judge that by any means. 

Basically my thoughts on this whole mess is say that (hypothetically) an experienced finish guy could do the job for $30 000. I'm a carpenter, not a finish guy, so I figure it would be fair to charge 70% of what a full-time finishing guy would charge. So that comes out to $21 000. Do you guys figure this is fair, or a completely unrealistic way to go about doing a job like this, and will only get me into trouble?

Also, I will be taking pictures of the house tomorrow, so maybe that will be of use to you guys if I post them here?

Anyways thanks so much for humouring me and being patient. Like I said, I really want to do this right, so any thoughts and opinions are greatly appreciated. Cheers -Cameron


----------



## frankcanpaint (Jul 26, 2006)

*Major disconnect here?*

So in the same vein does this also mean that a finish guy could just expect to bid on a carpentry renovation as long as he bid 70% of what an experienced carpenter would charge? :blink:


----------



## hansol04 (Feb 14, 2008)

I wouldn't see why not. I'm just doing it that way because I feel I can't offer what a professional finish guy could offer, so it isn't fair for me to charge what he would for the same job. In my mind it's like a 2nd year apprentice charging journeymen wages. 

Anyways I don't want to turn this into a debate on merit vs experience, just figured I would show where I was coming from and if it was on the right track or rediculous. Thanks guys -Cameron


----------



## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

May the Force be with you HanSolo4...

Why not find a good 'refinish' company, sub it to them and then watch and learn all you can. Don't try to be all things to all people.:w00t:


----------



## works4me (Sep 1, 2007)

Have never done it, but I took a continueing educ. class for my home inspect. license about log homes. You could be walking into a lawsuit waiting to happen to you here from what I remember about finishing logs. Do your research!!!! I remember the instructor mentioning about cleaning/stripping logs, do it right or serious problems. As well with the finishing materials, you need the right products to seal/protect them properly. You do something wrong to those logs that causes a failure and its a major expense to repair/replace. Not hard in a lawsuit to say what did you use on them, oh, wrong product - you lose. Wish I had more for you other than "worry". If your not sure, don't mess with it. IMO


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

Do they want to preserve the chinking? If so, then you pretty much have to brush each log, cutting into the chinking. If they don't care if Penofin (or whatever you use) gets on the chinking, then you can spray the finish which would be much faster. How long has it been since this place was refinished? Typically, log homes should be recoated every 3-4 years (at least here in Colorado). Man, I would never want a log home - major $$$ to upkeep.


----------



## hansol04 (Feb 14, 2008)

From what I can gather it's been at least 6 years since the place was finished, and the original builder didn't even finish the house properly. Basically he just quickly slapped on one coat of stain and called it good. So the sides of the house look very similar to the "weathering" you see on old barns on the side of the road. And it's a shame because it's such a beautiful house. 

But thanks very much for everyone's input. I'll be getting pictures posted soon. Cheers -Cameron


----------



## capital city (Mar 29, 2008)

I dont understand why you are charging less then a professional would when it will take you twice the amount of time. It sounds like you care about your work and you will try your best to do a good job. Ask for advice on here for each step and charge the "professional rate"


----------



## 98mustangguy (Sep 6, 2007)

I am sticking with 20-30k, thats a lot of house a lot of garage, a lot of deck, and a major pain in the arse. I hate log homes.


----------



## kenscar (Mar 7, 2008)

Yeah. Log homes are just not good. If the weathering is as bad as you say it is, it's going to take a LOT of elbow grease to bring that wood back to life. I'd almost say sandblasting would be your best bet - and that means masking all the chinking! Yikes. I think most log homes are treated with Penofin, and when you put Penofin over weathered wood it turns it black - like it was burned - and there's not much you can do to keep it from doing that. Here's an idea: what if you painted the place? That might be the best way to get it to look new again. Pick a real nice tudor brown or something. Just an idea.


----------



## hansol04 (Feb 14, 2008)

Hey all,

No pics today; I was rained out, so that was frustrating. 

As for the chinking, I don't know exactly how this works, but it appears that there isn't any "chinking" on this house. I've seen and worked on other log homes, and the chinking is obvious, but on this one the logs seem to be fitted to eachother somehow, and the chinking isn't visible. It sounds rediculous I know, but that's what it looks like. 

Anyways once I get the pictures up it'll make more sense. I apologize for not being able to better explain it. Cheers -Cameron


----------



## welovepainting (May 24, 2007)

kenscar said:


> Yeah. Log homes are just not good. If the weathering is as bad as you say it is, it's going to take a LOT of elbow grease to bring that wood back to life. I'd almost say sandblasting would be your best bet - and that means masking all the chinking! Yikes. I think most log homes are treated with Penofin, and when you put Penofin over weathered wood it turns it black - like it was burned - and there's not much you can do to keep it from doing that. Here's an idea: what if you painted the place? That might be the best way to get it to look new again. Pick a real nice tudor brown or something. Just an idea.


 
You are suggesting to paint the log home? Wow I have heard it all. Who in there right mind paints a log home?


----------



## Jonesey (Jul 7, 2006)

Best bet is to get in touch with your paint rep about what product to use and what prep system to use. Most log homes require a stain and seal system that goes far beyond what you'll get in a can at lowes. The deck, however, is easy. Powerwash, sand the crap out of it, then put Cabots on it. You can expect it to last about a year. 

Why don't you go to the HO and ask to do it T&M? At least that way you won't lose your a$$. More likely than not, he asked you for a set price to screw you because you've got no experience bidding projects like that. Some people should not be allowed to reproduce. You'll learn to hate cheap HO's. 

Off the top of my head, it'd probably take 4 guys around 3-4 weeks to complete and maybe 8-9k for materials. You're looking at close to 40k. 

And BTW, ext finishes on decks and log homes never last very well. Clear finishes MIGHT last 2 years on a deck, maybe 1 year in full sun on siding. Don't drag somebody elses work through the mud before you know what you're talking about. 

You might try talking to the builder and find out what finish is required on those logs new. Last time I did a new log home, they provided stain and finish (two part process, both double brushed) that had to be used or they wouldn't warrantee it AT ALL. Chances are if the HO had a 1 yr warrantee on that house, it was done to the builder's spec (who pays 10k for stain when it's free?) and 1-2 years is all a new finish will last period. 

Best scenario is powerwash, sand, and refinish with manufacturer's stain and finish product.


----------



## mark942 (Feb 18, 2008)

Power wash to open wood. Then hand wash with Behr multi surface mildew and stain remover.Using a med to hard bristle brush.Applying Behr with a hand held 2 gallon pump spray.Again power wash after hand wash. I found this product works the best with log homes,Woodgard from blairstown distributers.Sprayed then back brushed.I can not post url`s yet but you can www it. This products penetration properties aren't realized till the next day,even better 2 days after.Hands down the best by far product on the market.A bit on the pricy side, but it will enhance a log home 1000 fold. I can put up some pictures if your wanting to see the difference.
Blairstown delivery is unbelievably fast and free.I have used this system on 19 log homes and over 30 decks. Hope this helps you out...............Good Luck


----------



## C.C.R. (May 19, 2006)

I hope you have plenty of Insurance. If not you should get it before you touch this job. Everybody has to get their first experience somewhere but make sure you cover your a$$. 
Good luck with the job.:thumbsup:


----------



## JumboJack (Aug 14, 2007)

Disaster waiting to happen for all parties involved.


----------



## LogHome (Feb 7, 2013)

In Colorado there are many log homes which require this level of re-finishing which is why I started Log Home Finishing LLC. http://loghomefinishing.com 

In reference to the comment about having to brush every log to not get stain on the *****, this is one way to do it. The other is to skim coat the *****, which is what we normally do. Skim coating strengthens the existing *****, and gives a 'newly chinked' look to the entire log home. Stain is better sprayed than brushed on. After media blasting most wood really absorbs stain and requires multiple coats. A good spray rig gives a nicer finished look than brushing logs.


----------



## profinish (Oct 7, 2005)

Im curious too, of how do you land a gig without a price??


----------



## Mr. D (Jun 7, 2006)

Ok. Here are my thoughts. 
The idea of putting a finish on an exterior whether it be a log or any other kind of wood is to keep the water out. 
Power washing is pushing water in at high velocity. So, bad idea. 
If the finish is badly worn, use a chemical stripper or media blast. I recommend corn cob blasting. it is biodegradable and does not embed itself like sand. I have also heads of using glass. But am not experienced with that. 
Then buff out your logs as the media may leave an undesired look. 
Seal all if the upwards facing checks. Apply finish. 
I use perma-***** products and am a certified installer for their systems. Their website as well as many other log home finishing product sites are usually very thorough in explaining the proper process. It is a lot of work to do it right. But when you do, they look beautiful. Then you sign em up for a maintanence plan. And have a job every year for at least a couple days. Good luck have fun.


----------



## underwoodhi (Feb 14, 2013)

Run away! I did do these two cabins a year or so ago for gas money from FL to NC and lodging for my family and I. Really inexpensive family vacation so I guess there was some good! http://www.spiritofthemountains.com/cabins.htm 
The cabins were sealed so poorly wifey was nonstop mopping up water inside from the pressure washer! Bats don't like that acid wash stuff very much either, they would have loved to knock me off the pump-jacks.
What a dummy I was up there 30 feet in the air back pack sprayer full of acid wash, acid brush in one hand, pressure washer in the other jumping around like a lunatic dodging bats. WTF WAS I THINKING?


----------



## Frank Castle (Dec 27, 2011)

I'm assuming that this project is either done or the OP walked away since this was originally posted in 08'.

So hansol04, what happened?:whistling:

Some great info on maintaining log homes. Thanks to all the answering posts. I no longer want one.:laughing:


----------



## sealerguy (Feb 22, 2008)

Did you ever finish? If so did you earn a profit?


----------

