# Radiant Heat Layout



## HeyGuiher (Dec 22, 2010)

How would you heating pros layout the radiant tubing for this floor? 
The red arrow is the joist direction and the blue line is where the floor joists end between rooms.

Basically all I am asking is would you continue the tubing for the entire length of the joist bay/house, or would you stop the tubing at the blue line to seperate the rooms. The entire floor is going to be on one zone.


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## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

Even though one heating zone you will want to break up the zone into circuits. Otherwise you wont get even heating throughout the different areas


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## HeyGuiher (Dec 22, 2010)

Correct, unless I figured wrong, I am comming up with 5 loops/circuits for this zone.


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## Splinter (Apr 5, 2005)

Yep, stop the family room loops at the blue line and run the kitchen on a separate circuit. 

What are you installing the tubing in? subfloor? plates? What is the spacing? Seems like you're going to have some seriously long runs if you're only doing 5 loops.


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## HeyGuiher (Dec 22, 2010)

joists are 16" o.c. tubing will use plates under subfloor. all the loops will be under 300'


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

I was reading this post with some interest. I am running pex in a ICF built house. My project is to lay 2" Styrofoam and rough in the pex lines for the plumber. The basement concrete 3.5" floor is 2200 sq ft. It's a walk out basement. 12 " walls with 2" foam inside and out with 8" concrete walls. 9 foot basement in a cold climate location where it can get to -25 F. I'm fighting with the plumber and homeowner in that he says there is no need to run 12 " wide lines everywhere like I diagrammed. He told me 8" narrow runs on the outside wall areas and wider 16" in the middle. This is 1 zone that I had with 12" spacing with 10 runs of max 250 length. There is 220 sq. ft of window area triple glazed argon filled.
what do you think? Here was my runs as I used a loop program I found and entered most info i could think of.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

gowings said:


> I was reading this post with some interest. I am running pex in a ICF built house. My project is to lay 2" Styrofoam and rough in the pex lines for the plumber. The basement concrete 3.5" floor is 2200 sq ft. It's a walk out basement. 12 " walls with 2" foam inside and out with 8" concrete walls. 9 foot basement in a cold climate location where it can get to -25 F. I'm fighting with the plumber and homeowner in that he says there is no need to run 12 " wide lines everywhere like I diagrammed. He told me 8" narrow runs on the outside wall areas and wider 16" in the middle. This is 1 zone that I had with 12" spacing with 10 runs of max 250 length. There is 220 sq. ft of window area triple glazed argon filled.
> what do you think? Here was my runs as I used a loop program I found and entered most info i could think of.




Don't give in.

I have radiant in my house designed by bankrupt Heatway back in the early '90's. They did this type of design with 6" along the exterior walls and widening the spacing on the inside up to 12".
That was the worst thing. All they were doing was trying to cut the job cost by using less tubing.

I have a friend who does the radiant designs for a supply house and he told me ALL jobs are 6-8". 
Then he does the temp controlling by the design of the manifold using many, many valves. As he said, it is easy as heck to control the flow rate and temps of each zone and loop inside the boiler room than it is to try and change your tubing once the floor is poured.

FWIW, I have 1500 sqft in radiant. 4" foam under the slab, 12" ICF walk out foundation on first floor. I have it broken into 2 zones. One with 4 loops and one with 5 loops. No loop is longer than 175' and the manifold is centrally located. This is with 1/2" tubing.


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

I just wish the homeowner would get a 2nd opinion on the runs needed. Not relying on the current HVAC guy.


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