# Door thresholds



## Sam60 (Apr 29, 2006)

Any suggestions for covering an old wood threshold.
When I install new prehung exterior doors, it usually sits on top of the old wooden threshold. And on some brick homes I can have as much as 5" of the old wooden theshold exposed and not covered by the new metal threshold. Most are painted and look terrible since paint will not hold up well there.
I thought of bending some aluminum trim coil but that maybe to smooth and slippery. Maybe plane down a composite deck board to ¼” and cover?
Any suggestions for something more maintenance free.
Thanks


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## JonM (Nov 1, 2007)

Why would you not cut the old threshold out, build the subfloor up to match the interior floor then insert the pre-hung door?...dress up the outside with a piece of 1 x :thumbsup:


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

JonM said:


> Why would you not cut the old threshold out, build the subfloor up to match the interior floor then insert the pre-hung door?...dress up the outside with a piece of 1 x :thumbsup:


This is ideal, though not always practical depending on the exact situation.

I would definitely NOT bend up a piece of coil stock to cover it; even if the paint holds up, it is so thin that it would very quickly look much worse than the old wood with worn paint. 

Composite might look fairly decent, but would tend to wear relatively quickly--and is slippery when wet. I have my doubts as to how well it would work in a 1/4" thickness also.

Many door manufacturers also produce aluminum threshold extensions which can help to cover more of the underlying surface. That would be my preferred solution if Jon's isn't possible.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

those old sills are usually pitched which leaves a gap at the end of the new sill i always cut a new wood sill using pt 2x

i dont wrap my door sills or kick plate with coil anymore, pvc trim now


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

The old sills are oak and usually attached to the old jambs as one unit so if you sawzall the legs off your left with a loose old sill just resting there. Its a better job to rebuild them. Typically the rim joist is literaly chopped down to compensate for the oak threshold so I build it back up with treated even with the subfloor. I add a 1/2 to the jamb thickness plus the brick mold to create a reveal then a kickplate.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> i dont wrap my door sills or kick plate with coil anymore, pvc trim now


If the old sill/door opening was one of those monstrously deep ones and you are left with 2-3-4" of wood in front of your metal threshold, how do you handle it?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Tin i would have ripped out the origional sill,make a new projecting sill and put the kick under it


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## Sam60 (Apr 29, 2006)

tomstruble said:


> those old sills are usually pitched which leaves a gap at the end of the new sill i always cut a new wood sill using pt 2x
> 
> i dont wrap my door sills or kick plate with coil anymore, pvc trim now


They are pitched for a reason.
If the old sill extends 4" past the metal sill you would not want this level.
Even the metal ones have a pitch for water to run off.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

That's my point, Tom. If you're understanding me and I'm understanding you right, you're then still left with a couple of inches of [new, now] wood sill showing. The new threshold doesn't come out far enough to cover it, so you're left with it needing to be painted, varnished or wrapped. Whatever you use will definitely be getting abused.

Not much different from a wood stair step, but in that location it's going to get beat up more. Obviously, that's why most thresholds these days are made of metal. If I can't get hold of the proper threshold extension, I've always had to just leave it like that. I'd rather have something more substantial there.


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## Sam60 (Apr 29, 2006)

On a brick home you have quite a bit sticking out since the brick is thicker than siding.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Most old brickers had a chunk on limestone there. I think all door manufacturers offer a threashold extension.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I will do one of these 3 - use a sill extension if it will cover the existing sill. -replace the old sill with a new one, usually oak, and finish. - replace old sill with a new limestone one. Depends on the job, customer expectations, and money. Once on a comercial job I had custom 1/8" thick aluminum sill extensions made to cover the extension and wrap around to also create a kick board.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

oh i see what your saying Tin yes i paint the new ''sill'

usually the old sill is way pitched and the aluminum sill of the door less so leaving a fairly large gap under the aluminum sill


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

katoman said:


> Depends on the job, customer expectations, and money.


There goes that pesky "money" thing rearing its ugly head. I hate that part.



tomstruble said:


> usually the old sill is way pitched and the aluminum sill of the door less so leaving a fairly large gap under the aluminum sill


If the old sill is in good shape, I'll often rip a tapered piece of PT to fill that gap and support the threshold. That's usually more in line with what the customer is willing to pay for than a complete sill rebuild.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

yes i see your point Tin thanks,but i still wouldnt wrap with coil id just repaint,ive never seen a wraped sill or kick that looked good after a few yrs


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> yes i see your point Tin thanks,but i still wouldnt wrap with coil id just repaint,ive never seen a wraped sill or kick that looked good after a few yrs


Oh, heck yes! All it takes is one ding in the wrap, which can happen even before you're done cleaning up. :shutup:


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Tinstaafl said:


> There goes that pesky "money" thing rearing its ugly head. I hate that part.
> 
> 
> 
> If the old sill is in good shape, I'll often rip a tapered piece of PT to fill that gap and support the threshold. That's usually more in line with what the customer is willing to pay for than a complete sill rebuild.


And if not, I've made some 2 piece PT.
One piece flat under the sill, and one
beveled on the back edge, just tucked
under the nose of the aluminum, to
slope down to "grade."
Clear as mud, right?


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

neolitic said:


> And if not, I've made some 2 piece PT.
> One piece flat under the sill, and one
> beveled on the back edge, just tucked
> under the nose of the aluminum, to
> slope down to "grade."


:thumbsup:


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## kmyers (Apr 20, 2009)

tom m said:


> The old sills are oak and usually attached to the old jambs as one unit so if you sawzall the legs off your left with a loose old sill just resting there. Its a better job to rebuild them. Typically the rim joist is literaly chopped down to compensate for the oak threshold so I build it back up with treated even with the subfloor. I add a 1/2 to the jamb thickness plus the brick mold to create a reveal then a kickplate.


Yeah thats spot on info...I just replaced one for a lady Friday. Her house is real old and it looked to be the origanal threshold. All rotted (on the outside)

When i tore it out i discovered that it was 2x oak, problem was that closest to the brick it was only 1/2'' So my board had to go from 1 1/2 to 1/2'' 

Pain in the butt...but she was happy so...


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