# 1921 American #1 "Buzz" 16 jointer restoration.



## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I figured I would throw up what little I have done so far,- have to be careful with my new frickin pet that's with me everywhere I go!! STUBBY!!!!!:laughing: ahhhhhhhhhh:laughing: She's coming along......:notworthy











B,:shifty:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

You got out some cardboard and took off the little bits and pieces?:whistling:laughing:

That thing has heavy pieces too.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Oh,,,, here we go........













B,:shifty: give me a break.......:laughing:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

You painting it green?:whistling


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

yes, Oliver green:shifty::whistling there is no other color.......:laughing:


B,


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## bhock (Feb 17, 2009)

I have a feeling that somewhere off in a corner of the shop, that he never photographs is several 55 gallon drums of Oliver Green paint.


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Man, I just paint whatever colour I got left over from the last job.

Last job come to think of it I've got 3 gallons of puke green paint I can't get rid of. It's latex though. You may need a few coats. :whistling


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

KAto,,,,,,say it ain't so........you don't care,,,,,,:shifty: hey.... your on FNC...you familiar with the *slap* or *whip*:whistling :laughing:


It's All good John,,,,:notworthy


Me & Stubby Kicked ass today.....:thumbsup: pictures to fallow,,,It was a busy day for stub & I.....he did well...glove & all.....he even grabbed a screw driver....:w00t: and never got in the way....:laughing:


Just getting tired of the massage & bath sh!t.,,, it's to weird...:w00t:


B,:laughing:


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Hey Brian, you gonna keep that one for the shop?


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

:thumbsup: Absoluty Charlston III,,,, she is getting..........."The Bath" she has been waiting for since the mid 30's,,,,, filthy owners......:laughing: 


It was a great day!,,,, Stub & I are sittin back and having a cold one... he holds.... I consume....- teamwork.......:laughing::thumbsup: 





B.:shifty::laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
Most of the parts are off and they are going to sandblasted in the middle of week. I think this one is going to come out rather nice... a lot of the parts are going to be a chrome buff... it's a lot of work but well worth it to me. I took the height adjustment ships wheel off and put it on the scale in my shop 42 lbs-:w00t: chrome buffing the wheel and the spokes will be Olive green to match the body. The unique aspect about this jointer is that it has a cam bearing on both glides of the out-feed wedge and when you turn the crank it drops the end of the table slightly depending on how far you crank the handle, for hallow glue joint application when jointing boards. Look forward to getting back on the American.. It's coming along...... 

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

No pictures, I don't believe you.:shifty:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well now!
,,,em,,emhmm,,,,,I seem to remeber someone with a lot of cake hole yapping spewing out actions with no  , although I am not sure witch orfice it was coming from... ,,,meanwhile your casting you wild accusations as usual.







I wrote this at my GF's house , SDRAM card is back in my office - S0ooooooo ,:shifty: *slap*


As soon as I get home I'll be sure to throw them up right back at ya Mr. Green..







.., TODAY!





Your pithy comments  ,,:shifty:,,,,:laughing:

B,:shifty:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Where are the pictures?


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

As promised Meathead!!!:shifty::laughing:

I will throw up some more pictures as this progresses ... basically just the parts as I had before other than the captains wheel and the Gib's for the cutters. That height adjustment captains wheel is 24" in diameter and the circular wheel rim is 1-1/2" in diameter. I probably won't get to the sandblasting until Thursday. I'll be disassembling the tables (in-out feed) the wedge beds,crank adjustment assemblies,cutter head,bearing assembly,motor & bracket (that's going under the belly) and the legs - basically everything that is bolted on. And then the fun begins... :thumbup:



B.:thumbsup:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

OK,
next phase is now completed - dismantling: My buddy Greg and I tore her down today and while we were disassembling I realized that this has not been taken apart since 1922- just to cool thinking about it.... And the leg bolts where on tight, I had to get the pipe on the end of the 1/2" ratchet...it broke free... thank god! 
What is interesting about this machinery that was made back in 1922 is they would cast the pieces and then store them for 1 to 2 years. There was no annealing process back then and to relieve the stress out of the iron they would sit (in storage) until they were "seasoned" and the stress was released from the entire cast. Then they would perform the machining on all the cast pieces. Now they anneal casts pieces of machinery , at least here in the US, but not overseas... 
Anyways,
Everything came off and is all marked what goes where. The next phase is to send some of the parts off to be chromed, ie Captains wheel , out feed wheel /gib brackets/bow adjustment lever/ bolts -etc,etc, anything that is mechanically fastened - including the bearing housings- (certain portions) 
I have to look what it's going to run to have the tables/fence blanchard ground - more than likely, they are getting done but I may have to do it in stages depending on the costs. The motor is gone, looking for a leason from 1940-50 3-5hp and that will be swung in the belly of the jointer on a knuckle lift assembly plate with pillow blocks, similar to the Oliver 20C setup. 
The insides of her are black as can be from oxidation- has never met an HVLP gun,,,, not yet...:sneaky2:

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

More snaps,,,,,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

more..... :whistling


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

And the last.... more to come when the restoration begins.....:thumbsup: 



B,.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

At least the floor won't go anywhere.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I found out about the chrome plating, it's not cheap but the company I talked with said that a lot of the expense is them prepping the castings. $240.00 alone for the captains wheel, the entire wheel. After I explained that I wanted just the rim then they cut the price to $80.00 if I do all the prepping as well. 
When I did the Oliver 20C restoration I used a metal buffing rouge (Grey/white) and the castings came out like chrome, nice mirror finish, but after time they start to get dull from the air and moisture from your hands 

The Blanchard grinding is up in the air as far as cost, I have to take them to the machinist to get a price. Tim from O'Connell Machinery is going to let me know once he sees the field tables. I'll get some video of that, I am a picture junkie when it comes to machinery and restorations of, and is a definite + when it comes to the machineries information, specs, and what was done during the restoration-a detailed record. 

I'll be back on her over the weekend sanding the body,legs and wedges and see how that goes. I have 4 bolt holes where the former motor mount bracket was that needs JB weld fill and then ground smooth but hopefully all will go well and I will be able to prime them by the fallowing week. This one is going to take some time....

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

That is a lot of shenkles just to have a chrome wheel.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Darce,
I think 300-350.00 is fair for what needs plating,,,It's what I would like to do to stop the tarnishing and oxidation. I know quite a few that have done this over at OWWM... some have done their own electrolysis plating or tarnishing (black)Caswell electrolysis nickel plating. I don't have the time right now to educate myself on how this is done or the time, but if i did i would and may look into this but not now-work comes first. 

this is the look I am after, only a little more shine....this is Ron's 133 over at OWWM... he did a fantastic job on her... :thumbsup:


B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

That is pretty and all but, a nice clean painted handle with just a buffed out edge is good enough. Heck, I kind of like them looking a little battled scared but, running like a champ.

If you want some bling on you jointer, make it happen man.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
I cleaned up the infeed & out feed mechanism assemblies today. I'll be moving into the body tomarrow. The wire wound wheels do a great job of cleaning up Arn, and I was able to reviel the cast#s on all of the parts so far. :thumbsup: 


more to come... 

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

some more snaps,
I had to re-pour some babbitt....ahhhhh :laughing: it's nothing major it was out of round from wear; lack of oil :whistling- it was for the sleeve bearing on the screw shaft housing plate- came out great-snug, tight and spins free as the wind. the oil ports were clogged - all bored out and good to go. Plan on bondo for the re-fill on the body castings so they come out smooth and ready for the red oxide primer. The black you see on the single toe was a heavy based filler/primer to smooth out the castings from nooks & crans, this was the original paint from 1921, no second coats. 




B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

last one for today...love finding the cast ID# ...and still negligible :thumbup:

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
I decided to tackle the cutter head today. Bearing race was heated with map gas lightly for expansion and they came off with no hitch. 
The end shaft bearings were dbls 1-7/8" D self aligning bearings. you can see this is the picture below. I was shocked that they were in a jointer from 1921 but met with Greg from Buffalo Bearing and he told me that they were original. I ordered new bearings just to be safe. 
They are used so the if the cutter head is off from parallel just slightly ,they are allowed to swivel in the outside race and will always stay parallel with the opposite fixed bearing.
I am also replacing the old 3/16" felt "keepers" (these keep the dust out and the grease in) they are on the inside of the pillow block housing covers. 
After I cleaned up all the bearings assemblies I used the wire wound brush to clean up the head, then a fine flat file to clean up any small dents that resaulted in some raised areas on the head and clean up all the edges. I used 120 oxide SP soaked in mineral spirits hand stroke sanded. I still have more stroke sanding to do up to 280 grt - same process , and then the buffing rouge... 
then I re-tapped the hold down ports on the out-feed table (6) and was looking at the wedge bed while I was doing this noticed this black material in the track where the wedge plate guides go (pictures) and am trying to find out what it is. It's not metal and reminds me of dried up pitch (asphalt) , it was about 1/8" wide and 9/16ths" in height and irregular is it's shape in consistency. Some of it was missing in areas so I cleaned it all out and I'll get to the bottom of what it is and why it was there.The only thing I can think of is that it was used to keep dust and debris out, possibly, any thoughts? :blink:
At any rate,
I am making some progress, all be it slowly, but it's going to be nice when she gets re-assembled and comes back to life....

B,


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## warped board (Apr 19, 2011)

*16" jointer*

Nice job doing the resto. I have rebuilt 2 American jointer and they where no big deal just a ton of work. American was always very generous with the width of their beds. Did the tables have the Rockford scrape on the tops? Really cool looking. When I rebuilt my Oliver 287 shaper it had the same black body filler your American did. Nasty stuff. Glad to see you got a gibbed head and not a clamshell. Gladder yours didn't come with the original motor. It probably had a monster 3-5 hp that was about 2 ft. diameter and completely open and VERY heavy. I had my Oliver 287 table reground with a Blanchard and it was 150. The Master disc sanders I have rebiuld only cost 40 to regrind and my Oliver 217 was 125. If the bottom of the tables are not flat they will have to grind the bottom first and wedge it up and flip it over and grind the top. Just wait till you hear that 16" cutterhead come to life, the hair on you neck will rise. Great job.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Glad to have you aboard.... another Arn enthusiest.....:thumbsup::thumbup::clap: 

Do you have some pics of your Arn machinery- we would love to see what you have going on in your shop...you have to have 15 post to upload , just so you know.... or you can insert a hyperlink... 

The Blanchard grinding.... ahhh, that didn't go over to well with some over at OWWM.... some of the guys over there are fanatics about keeping it original looking as much as possible , to each his own I say...it's all good-:thumbsup: 

Welcome aboard Warp...:thumbsup: there aren't to many of us Arn folk here on CT but they are a great group of people here... you'll like it here,just hope you have a good sense of humor....:whistling:laughing:


B, :thumbsup:


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

This is my new favorite thread:thumbsup:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

OK,
here's is something that has everyone stumped, 
No one from OWWM knows (as of yet) what this is. I found it on the wedge beds- in & out beds- 4 sides. I found this black, looks like asphalt -pitch ,it's hard, very brittle and left some remnants of that after I took it off with a 1/4" sharp steel chisel. Someone else that owns one of the American Jointer's had the same thing and now that makes 2 of us that are wondering what the hell this material is and why it was put in :blink:-:laughing: 

It resides in the top channel of the wedges ( in and out) and ran the whole length- almost , about 16 inches out of a 20" span and is covered by the wedge plate guides... this is at the top of the channel and is covered up by the guide plate

What I am thinking is it was there to keep dust out of the slide channel- what do you think-? There was and is no evidence of a dust collection system that was installed with this jointer, and I don't know exactly how things went as far as a DC system back in 1922. From the archive files in WWing in the 20's - they were not used for certain machinery at this point, planers and saws - yes but this had no plenum for a DC port built in so - that is an unknown.... 

Dave had some sheet metal shoved in there with a 6" port shoved in the belly which did not really work to well with all the wood debris that came out of her, it reminded me of stuffing,,,,:clap: I love stuffing :clap:, just not wood stuffing....:laughing:

THIS!!! would be a really great find of some information that up to this point, is unknown...:whistling.... :thumbsup:

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
Today I got the wedges ( the in & out) and the body wire wheeled to get rid of anything that is net adhering to the cast iron. I found 1/8" of resin that on the center chamber right underneath the cutter head on the side the gets used the most for jointing in the main body. The resin was just caked on and dry, so I helped it along a little bit with some MAP gas and waited 5 min, took my 1" steel chisel and sheared it off in chunks and then cleaned the surface with the wire wheel. 

Took the tags off today as well, you never know how they are going to come off, but there is a little trick to getting them off. Heat up the area on the backside of the tag where the brass jamb pin nails are- just slightly, and sure enough they come out with no problems. 
Cleaned up the tags,- looking pretty good so far :thumbup:. the 18" cutter guard is going to have to go out and be repaired. I could slap Dave for what happened to this rare cutter guard as it is original to the jointer and good luck finding a replacement. 
They did not have the hight adjusted properly and during operation ,who ever used it , was applying some downward pressure on it and probably was grabbed by the blades on the cutter head and run through the blade,, I can see skip marks all the through the edge of the guard. Also, the main shaft of the cutter guard was cracked at all the ribs hence they fastened a jury rigged plate on it with bolts to keep it together- so I am hoping that this aluminum cutter guard can be repaired or I may have to have one fabricated out of aluminum exactly as it was back in 1921. Hopefully it can be welded together but I am not to sure about welding aluminum... the if's..... 
Is it possible to repair an aluminum casting? :blink: 

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

one more pic....this was the wood sap/resin/pitch that was built up since 1921, you can see where I sheared a chunk out...







i got my popcorn guy to work again!!!!







:clap::laughing:
















B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

continued..., LOL









Well I had all the main body parts wire wheeled and cleaned up over the weekend for the fill. I took all the body parts and a hard rubber spreader and coated the parts for the fill on any imperfections. I also filled in the bolt wholes that where in the legs... gone.. and back to original condition. Then I sanded them down so everything was smooth as glass and now I am ready for the 1st oxide coat. I'll be doing this over the weekend.

Ahhh, 
And then the killer news today. That cutter guard..... I found out today that this is NOT all aluminum. I took it over to O'Connell machinery and Walt (one hell of a machinist:thumbsup: a frickin master- German metallurgist scientist practically. seriously :thumbsup: told me that the cutter guard is not repairable. I am going back there to have some other work done and I have got to get some pictures of this place... and I will.
Anyways....
This is called " Pigs Metal" as Walter comented.... OK - What is that,,,
Well, lets see, scrap! he says 
Thats right, scrap! they took aluminum, magnesium and some other metals to cast these and it is NOT repairable.......
So - I am going to replicate this - possibly, I have to find a forging company and and see if I can't get them to pour a cast for me. This is going to be interesting,,,,:laughing: I plan on making a pattern of the cutter head exactly as it is (wood), find somewhere where I can get some of that "magic sand mold material" make a split form, press the first half of the pattern in the 1/2mold, let it harden, put the release agent on, drop the next sleeve on,drop the sand mold in - tap & press, let it harden and now I'll have my cutter head mold ready to go,finding a foundry to do this locally... priceless...:laughing: and what it's going to run... $$$$$
But what I may be able to do is sell the pattern to re-coop some of the costs. I'll have to see. If I can't do the forging because of the costs then I will have to find the perforated aluminum stock and some flat stock (all in aluminum) and have it welded. 
I found out today that will cost me $530.00 + NYST at Allied Steel of Buffalo to have them make it. But I think with the friends I know,if I get everything all prepared and ready to weld they will do it for me for about $200.00. The guy that I was talking to about the welding fabrication (Tim) said there is about 6 hrs of labor at the most to make this @ $60.00 hr and about $50.00 for the aluminum so I don't begrudge the price but that is almost what I payed for the jointer....but she is definitely worth it IMO...:thumbsup:
I have to admit it was kind of a drag that it cant be repaired but, oh well, welcome to my world....:laughing: me and my old machinery.... 



B, :thumbsup:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Some more snappers...







oh, and my shop is a disaster,.,, I'm getting sick of it....:laughing: 






B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I don't see why someone couldn't fab a new guard up out of aluminum to match.

I know you can get aluminum sheet stock that is almost like that with the holes in it and a little bit of scraps to make up the skeleton of that guard. 

I can't think that would cost more then a couple hundred bucks tops.

Hell, then you could have it powder coated.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Yea Darce,
That may be the way to go and I bet I could get it to look pretty close if I can find the right aluminum , the perforated top. It would be great if I could have this cast though. I have to talk to my buddy- he does some foundry work but I don't know EXACTLY all that is involved , what he is capable of doing and the cost involved. 



I hope all is well with you! :thumbsup: 

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I found a foundry locally- http://www.buffalometalcasting.com/-I am going there tomarrow - can't today- there is an all day meeting going on ,,,, arg,,,,, LOL

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
I just got some valuable information off of the mothership from a few members. I am going to get round bars of epoxy in the tube with the one part on the outside and the other in the core where you slice off a chunk and mix it. They have one for metal and it would be fine to fill in missing areas for casting. I am going to try and built it up where the guard was rammed into cutter , shape it and get it back to where it was when original. I also hope this epoxy will keep the broken shank together and will withstand the ramming of the sand mold process. 

This all depends on the cost, but one way or the other I must get this guard duplicated as original as possible. 

It's always something that comes up with these restorations, I just never ran into this situation, oh well..:laughing:

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

You are worse then a woman. You think you want the diamonds with the platinum but, when you realize you have to pay for them, you settle for epoxy.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Brian,
First off, thanks for sharing your machine restoration.:thumbsup:

As far as fixing the gaurd, I'd probably add some support to the bottom side & call it close enough. You could add a 2 piece clamp collar to the post, & then weld a big swiss cheese gusset plate to the collar. Then you could JB weld, (or bondo) bondo the two to the gaurd. From the top, it would not be visable, unlike the plate it had on it when you bought it.
Joe

PS,
I am currently going through my newly aquired 1951 Tanny PH 30 I picked up off Craigs list for $600, original paint & all! I've already cut with it! 
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/grd/2318324448.html


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Darce, 
OMG, I thought we were past this stage... but apparently not... Here here we go again,-







...... - :laughing:.. .....Hope all is going well with you D.:thumbsup:
The epoxy is for getting the shaft re-attached to the main head, filling in where there are low spots on the bottom of the cutter guard and shaping the part that has been chewed to hell. NOT TO FIX THE HEAD AND USE it...I am just using the epoxy just to prepare it for a casting & ramming...there maybe more than one being made- Gary needs one as well. I have been working and didn't get a chance to get over to that foundry company today... hopefully I can get over there Monday and talk with them... 

Railman -how we doing , been a long time since I have seen you on here...OMG!!!!!!. Love that Tanny-"The 30":thumbup: Awesome Arn you have there :thumbsup:. SO what's the scoop, any bath in order for her..? You have to start a thread on her own... I, and several others here on CT would love to see what you have going on there- seriously, hope you can do a little show & tell for us...:clap:, seriously :thumbsup:


As far as the welding, - as I said earlier rail, it can't be done - it's pigs metal and I don't want to plate this guard, it would be like it was just the way I recieved her, and I really don't want to take that path, but I do appreciate your thoughts and ideas- :thumbsup: I would like it all original as much as possible without breaking the bank... :laughing: 

I really hope you consider throwing a thread up on your Tanny for us-that is one serious piece of Arn you got there Railman-:thumbsup: 
This is a snap from the 1940's broshure and spec info..... Real nice BS RM....
B,


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

PrestigeR&D
The epoxy is for getting the shaft re-attached to the main head said:


> If you are going to recast the original, what I was talking about doesn't matter. If you need another option, I was talking about using one of these on the shaft:
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2768-125&catname=powerTrans
> & then weld a plate to the collar....no welding to the original casting was mentioned or needed. Since it would all be on the bottom side, the patch would be fairly hidden.
> 
> ...


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Hey Joe,
I understand what your saying now using the collar and welding a plate to that, thanks for the idea. I am going to see what this is going to run first and then go from there. 
So what's the story with the Tanny- where was it, looks like it was sitting for some time. You plan o starting a thread on her Joe? 


Nice find -:thumbsup: 

B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

OK- 
Here's the news on the cutter head guard that was undetermined as to what direction I was going to go with do to cost- I met with the owner of the casting foundry today with the cutter-guard in hand. He took a look at it and said the very same thing as O'Connell machinery said- "pigs metal. Anyways he said he will be able to cast it but it would need a lot of clean up work, it would all have to be polished smooth and would shrink 5/32" in size for every foot of casting. If they have to get the original cutter guard prepped and ready for casting I am looking at around $6-$700.00 and it would be 3/8 -1/2" smaller in size so after telling him I am a wood craftsmen he told me it actually would be better if I could make the cast ( 3/8 larger to allow for shrinkage) and would come out much, much better than using the existing guard. There were several areas on the edges where the cutter guard had bumped into the blades and would have to be built up, sanded and polished so at least it was smooth for the sand mold, not to mention the chunk on the corner that was missing ,god only knows what happened with the accident that caused that, and that would have to be fabricated, molded and sanded smooth. 

So,
Going by all the information that he gave me- the wood pattern will do the best job, it will come out smooth- new and also keep the costs down, he will even emboss the original part number in the under side of the guard exactly where it is located for me ,to keep it as original as possible, for no extra charge. So- To keep the costs down I am replicating the pattern out of wood exactly as it was when it was shipped new. This will be a sand mold casting using the pattern I am making and the cutter guard will be made entirely out of aluminum- no pigs metal!!! The shaft and lock thread I will bore out and tap when I get it back in my shop. 

The cost $350.00 , but it could be a lot worse. I would have a hell of a time trying to find a 1920's cutter head guard , let alone one in good condition for that much, they gouge the hell out of you if it comes up for sale, if- .... but hey, when you have a niche on some rare parts... you can demand the big bucks.....


B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Just have one made out of aluminum.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

"Well",......"let me think about that"..... ....I am going to have the guard cast out of Aluminum Darce. 
I started the main feild of the guard out of 3/16ths oak vanear ply. All the holes were traced and the ribs marked out on the outside, lined up together and drawn. The main feild was traced 1/4" larger to allow for the shrinkage on the aluminum. Tomarrow after work I' should have all the wholes drilled out and see how far that goes.....then I will cut that about 1" from the edge (pencil line pic- just the radius of the arc) to allow for the 7 degree bevel at the edge. 


looks like me & my drill press are going to get to know one another tomarrow.....:laughing:




B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

fnal cut finished....
















B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Get to drillin'!!


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

....... ..........  ..........










B,:sneaky2:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Eating popcorn smiley......


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

OK....

I got the breathers bored and completed there Mr. Green.







.. .:laughing: 

And then I bent towards the next phase..... 



Instead of me yapping away...explaining every little detail.... I think the pictures should be self explanatory.......... well, at least they should be,, ,,:laughing: 


B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Some more snapers......











B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Yep, more......












B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

some more...












B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

That's it folks.... ... For Now!...:laughing:




B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
finished the next phase, not to catch you off "guard" or anything like that....:laughing: ahhhhhhh, 
anyways, 









Flipped and traced the jig to start the outer 11 deg rim. 
It's starting to take shape......:thumbup: 






B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

last few snaps...












B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
Took the 7 degree edge flare out of the jig, flipped it and everything is coming out as planned. Today is shop day!:clap: Time to turn the shaft on the Oliver 20C and then I will be installing the ribs in place , and possibly starting the drafting -well see how it goes. :whistling - It's getting closer to being finished and off to the foundry for the sand mold and pour! :thumbup:




B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

OK-,
Finished off all the ribbing, spun the shaft, and have just completed the construction phase of the 1921 cutter guard pattern, part# 33L416-for the American Woodworking Machinery Co. #1 16" "Buzz" hand jointer-







. Next phase  is the finish work & detailing. ....and then the finish. .........











Oh,
, and I added the sweep supports at the shaft ........



B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

last 2......












B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Looks like that tiny lathe of yours could barely handle that piece.:whistling:laughing:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

............












B, :shifty: cheap shot... try again....


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

Damn Brian...that is insane :notworthy

Should get someone like app-ironworks to make you something. I'm impressed with what you did there, but I can't imagine that taking the wear and tear for too long.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

It's getting cast Kent....in Aluminum... sand mold, foundry.... just using it for a pattern....



Thank you...:thumbsup: 
B,


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## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

I'll have to watch how you do this with the foundry. Interesting Brian. Sorry I didn't read more on what you posted. I figured it wasn't made for permanent use. Pretty interesting for sure.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
I am not casting the guard Kent, John Klodzinski's company is doing the casting- http://www.buffalometalcasting.com/methods.htm 

I am going to ask him if it would be alright if I get some pictures of them pouring the guard...... hopefully it will be OK...:thumbsup: 

The new bearings came in for the cutter head, I just have to make the paper gaskets for the bearing housing to get them ready for assembly. I have got to get the body parts primed with oxide today , or some time soon,and ready for the final 3 coats of Oliver green paint. 

This has been an interesting project for me, especially the cutter guard. You really get to know your machinery when you tare it apart,restore it and re-assemble it. 

Later in the year I am going to do the same with the Oliver 117A band saw. I have a feeling that is going to take a little more time, they slapped paint on it - I don't know how many layers are on there but it will get the same process as the American jointer. 

When I did the Oliver 20C - I stripped it down to the bare metal-, my GF actually helped me out! There was no need to do that...but I was just trying to be thorough. That black cast filler is a real mess stripping it off the castings and it didn't really have to come off.

I sank some coin into her- that's for sure- the headstock spindle and bearing housing was switched from Babbitt bearings to Ball bearings - the drive assembly all re-engineered, tool holder- all machined and better than it was made in 1908-it was a little pricey but well worth it to me. I'll post the Oliver 20C restoration up here...or a link from OWWM.,it's going to be rather long......... :laughing:

I really enjoy working on machinery and bringing them back to life - it's my hobby, or at least , it's turned into that....more like an obsession.....:laughing:


B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Here is Oliver 20C link- http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96165

and the "Jet " sound coming from the lathe... . well, I fixed that......:laughing:







 
B,


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Here is Oliver 20C link- http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96165
> 
> and the "Jet " sound coming from the lathe... . well, I fixed that......:laughing:
> 
> ...


It sounded like she was gonna blow







towards the end of the video.

Good stuff B...









-Paul


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks Paul, :laughing:
How are you getting the youtube to embed,,,,ever since they changed the format here, I havn't been able to do it! what are you doing ? 


Thanks Paul....:thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Thanks Paul, :laughing:
> How are you getting the youtube to embed,,,,ever since they changed the format here, I havn't been able to do it! what are you doing ?
> 
> 
> Thanks Paul....:thumbsup:


Just place this cWlAcpCXa3s from your link, between the Youtube brackets.:thumbsup:

-Paul


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks Paul! :thumbsup: have a great weekend! ...


B, :thumbsup:


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Here is Oliver 20C link- http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96165
> 
> and the "Jet " sound coming from the lathe... . well, I fixed that......:laughing:
> 
> ...



Brian, Get rid of the part in green. That makes CT think the youtube video is url instead of embeded.:thumbsup:

-Paul


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

Reminds me of Star Trek.






Be careful you don't kill someone, (in a distant Galaxy), with that thing. :jester:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

:laughing:, No,,,, it's off of the lathe Tom and I don't run it with that index plate 18"-1/4 plate steel, 12 lbs at 2800 rpm's ,,, you heard it... :laughing:, .

I originally had it installed in the middle of the headstock spindle and was planing on making a cover for it but that noise........ Once I ran it that way I decided to make it detachable- first on the front like it shows in that video and then I decided to have it mounted on the outside turning end of the spindle if and when I need to index a piece of work. 


I have to admit, it was rather frightening being near the lathe when I ran it with that index plate...







...:laughing:- 


B,


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

Brian, This thread is a classic. I've been following it all along. I just couldn't add anything useful---

I do hope the casting house lets you photograph the process--It'll be like watching a child being born.(to us tool junkies,anyway)---Mike----


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## kswoodbutcher (Dec 4, 2010)

Great thread Brian ! Thankyou:thumbsup:


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Hey,
I am glad you are enjoying this thread guys-:thumbsup: I have gathered more information and how-too's from threads, such as this at OWWM, in helping and guiding me in restoring my first piece of machinery. We do get some that give a play-by-play when they restore with pictures and it has really helped out a lot of others that have fallen into the vortex of the "Arn Addiction",:laughing: good luck getting out,,,,:laughing: 

But I gotta tell you,it is very time consuming...-  There was a thread on years ago that I will never forget about this very topic. He posted a thread about a restoration over at OWWM and went into great detail and pictures - I mean a real thorough job!

Well,
He does the same thing I do (OWWM & CT), to a point. A duplicate listing to another forum. Well, he comes back on his thread a week or so later, all pissed off - " the hell with "" "" "" forum-bla,bla,bla "I'm done"! so naturally this draws a lot of attention at this point,.so a few respond with the obvious "what happened"!!!! 

He says -"There were several responses to go out and buy the Chi-com equipment and basically (in so many words)- stop waisting my time & money on this old equipment "! - So we asked him where he posted the thread, it was a wood "hobby" forum- basically sponsored by a lot of foreign tool manufacturers. 
So I felt for the guy but in the same sense we needed to point out to him that we go to all the trouble with resurrecting ARN and taking notes, detailing,and posting- but we do it to share information and techniques in restoring OWWM . We do appreciate all those ,including yours,that go to a lot of trouble to describe and detail their posts.

I guess what I am trying to say is, I (we) do it for the Love of OWWM, the history behind the equipment, and the restoration process. There is just something about OWWM that sucks us in....I am not kidding about that- :no: once you get one piece of ARN in your possession, - it's all over.,...:laughing: 

When have you ever seen a jointer like these..... just way to cool!:thumbup: the angled Jointer (don't know the manufacturer -yet!) is just incredable!....:thumbup:


The Gimballed Jointer (arched bed picture) - and I quote from a member on OWWM-

"The rare and elusive Gimballed jointer. Once a commonly seen tool on wooden sailing-ships. When bolted to the deck abeam it allowed Ship's Carpenters to maintain the elusive level surface. Although maintaining feed rate during an upwind leg was a skill only a few in the trade were able to master. Sadly attempts to use the same technology for sea going billiards tables ended in a frightening and destructive manor".-





B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,








I drafted all the corners today (concave) and filled in any imperfections (WF). Top was a skim coated (WF) and a light sanding. ....... This guard is so light, I wish I could slap this on but I will surely have some type of misfortune......whoops!  :laughing:

That picture of the original guard at the tip was where something bad happened....



B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Guess what I did....exactly the same thing and accomplished cleaning 2/3rds of the pig stye -I kid you not.........holy cow..... spooky......:laughing:



B,:thumbsup:


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## mikes work (Dec 29, 2008)

Yes I have 480v 3ph. It said 440v on the discription will I have to do anything special or will the 480 work ok.

Mike


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I don't see a problem Mike, if you test your line it probably will be a little less,,,,than what is stated by your electric co. 

By the way, how much time do you have to pick up the American jointer?

B,


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## mikes work (Dec 29, 2008)

I have until 23 of this month 

Mike


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Where are located Mike? are you a WW'er? Replacing an existing jointer or is this new to the shop? Well at least they give you more than a week.......


Be careful rigging that jointer, it can teeter during rigging it onto a pallet because of the 3 leg design. 

If you want to go the original rout with the "Peter" guard your going to need the assembly to mount the guard to ....you can see it on one of the pictures I have in this thread. 


Here's the patent for that guard /prints: :thumbsup: http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?id=5008

I see why there is that plate up against the outer bearing.....used to cover that area where the cutter head is exposed- safety issue....that will need to be removed if you find the Peter guard housing assembly.

B,


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

mikes work said:


> Yes I have 480v 3ph. It said 440v on the discription will I have to do anything special or will the 480 work ok.
> 
> Mike


It's fairly common to run motors at different voltages as long as it's with 10%, especially the 440/480 scenario. You'll probably never approach the capacity of the motor anyway, so amperage draw won't matter as much. Your also highly unlikely to run more than a few minutes at a time under load.

After saying that, you should read this explanation 1st:

http://ecmweb.com/design_engineering/electric_highs_lows_motor/

Joe
Joe


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## mikes work (Dec 29, 2008)

I live in Richmond Va. Cabinet/Furniture Maker. Have a 8" Powermatic now but it will be nice to have a big old heavy wide one:thumbup: 

I am new to the forum thanks for all the help!

Mike


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## mikes work (Dec 29, 2008)

Trying to send pictures of the jointer not sure how.

mike.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,..

1 year latter........

It was time to get back on AWWM 16" jointer and try and get her finished. Not much happened today, just some cleaning, few casts we're primed..and a sap tumor that was growing on the outside wedge lip underside...
































































































B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Last few pics until I get some work done on her...





















B,


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## tenon0774 (Feb 7, 2013)

You sir,

Are in a class all your own...

I've seen guys restore older metalworking presses and even some woodworking machines from the early to mid twentieth century...

...nothing of this size.

Exquisite!

:thumbup:

-Scott


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

It's about time. 

I am trying to get my new AWWM planer cleaned up, repaired and back together. 

Careful, American made some real sweet hearts.....


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Moving along....










More to come..





B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

That poor thing in green.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Hey D,

How's it going....?

Listen,
I was just wondering if you could do me A huge favor,......:blink:


I need you to walk over to one of the journals that holds your babbit bearings on one of your machines , load some oil into it ......be generous , the more- the better...:thumbsup:


Then kinda stand directly in front of that journal and then i would like you to turn that machine on,....


Some kinda test your supposed to do with those thigs,,,,,


Just wonder what the outcome will look like,....... so if you dont mind , please feel free to take some pictures,.....more so of yourself .:whistling


B,...


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

My babbits don't drip


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

You sure you can't help me out....:blink:


It's to check your machine being in level............

They tell me that the black line that gets flung on the wall is were you put your level up against.....but I can't picture it , so I thought you would be my good buddy and between the 2 of us I can get back on there with an answer,,,,,


What do you say?.....:blink:





B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
Today I hung........... "The pig" ,and worked on the union from the legs to the main base. The process of masking/buffing all the parts was moving along as well, there is plenty of detail work now. I have more to go but it's getting close to having all the parts ready for the final hvlp shoot. Then it's time for some " Frankenstien fabrication"..............

















































B,


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Little more progress........


















































Now all I have to do is remember how this all goes back together..........?


B,...


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Well,
I made a little more progress, the infeed control wheel was ground and buffed .......













































The raise & lower mechanical assembly was installed.......




























Continued....

B,


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