# 8 x 24 plank, spacing



## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I'm laying down 500 sf of 8x24 ceramic "wood" plank on a basement floor with 1/3 offset. Floor and Decor cheap stuff, and it seems fairly flat. Silvered wood, with gray/silver grout (similar)

This is intended to be a quick, fast, cheap install for a home sale. No leveling system, just comb and go. What grout size would you go with? I was going to do 3/16", but I'm having second thoughts that I should tighten it up a bit (1/8").

Thoughts?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Measure the tile. If it's 1/8" short of the whole number go with 1/8.

You'll regret not using a lippage system with these tiles.

Tom


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

tjbnwi said:


> Measure the tile. If it's 1/8" short of the whole number go with 1/8.
> 
> You'll regret not using a lippage system with these tiles.
> 
> Tom


It's a bit larger than 8x24, like an 1/8" wider and 1/4" longer.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

MarkJames said:


> It's a bit larger than 8x24, like an 1/8" wider and 1/4" longer.


Go with an 1/8. Most are smaller. 

Tom


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

I'll never lay tile without using a leveling system (clip), it's too darn hard and I can't lay a tile and know that it badly out of level and leave it. it feel it makes me faster b/c I'm not messing with spacers. The red clips in the Riamondi system are 1/8" wide, which is a great width for that type of flooring. 

If you don't use a leveling system then by using a wider grout joint you can hide the uneven tiles.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Alright, you smacked some sense into me. Much obliged. :thumbsup:

I decided to get the Goldblatt version of the Lash clips, since the levelers are softer, less brittle plastic. Good enough for now. 1/16" spacing


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

IMO, wood planks should never be further than 1/8". And I am glad you decided to use a lippage system. I would say that it will save you a ton on labor so well worth the small cost.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

FYI:

https://www.tcnatile.com/faqs/40-grout-joint-size.html


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Check a few tiles side by side. The 1/16" might be to tight. You can use 1/8" spacers with the 1/16" clips if need be.

Tom


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

Well you learn something everyday. I have never seen these used before. They look really handy, are they used just on larger tiles with small grout Lines? When the thinset is dry do they just break off?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

MeanWeen said:


> Well you learn something everyday. I have never seen these used before. They look really handy, are they used just on larger tiles with small grout Lines? When the thinset is dry do they just break off?


I use the RLS lippage system. I think the minimum tile size is 8x8, thickness from 1/8" to 3/4", minimum joint width is 1/16", max width is not listed, my guess 3/4".

Yes, they break off. 

The first photo incorporates a protection plate that TNT recommend. 

Tom


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

tjbnwi said:


> I use the RLS lippage system. I think the minimum tile size is 8x8, thickness from 1/8" to 3/4", minimum joint width is 1/16", max width is not listed, my guess 3/4".
> 
> Yes, they break off.
> 
> ...


They come in 1/32" as well. Not sure the widest. I have only ever used the 1/8" clip.


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## MeanWeen (Nov 11, 2017)

I’ve never seen any of my tile guys use these at all, they do seem pretty handy though. Just trying to understand a bit more. So I guy would probably use these more when they were placing a 24”x12” tile with a tight grout line rather than a 12”x12” with a large grout line? Seem like a no brainer for walls as would be placing the spacer in there anyways. Any drawbacks to these. Cost, Speed? For some reason I can’t see a guy using these in a large office entry. These targeted more towards residential work? Also just realized I’m butting right into the middle of your post MarkJames, sorry about that.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

MeanWeen said:


> I’ve never seen any of my tile guys use these at all, they do seem pretty handy though. Just trying to understand a bit more. So I guy would probably use these more when they were placing a 24”x12” tile with a tight grout line rather than a 12”x12” with a large grout line? Seem like a no brainer for walls as would be placing the spacer in there anyways. Any drawbacks to these. Cost, Speed? For some reason I can’t see a guy using these in a large office entry. These targeted more towards residential work? Also just realized I’m butting right into the middle of your post MarkJames, sorry about that.


No problem. There's room for everybody.


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## Mr Latone (Jan 8, 2011)

Interesting timing on this thread.

I am looking at a 8x24 wood look as an option for a room that may have a higher than optimal deflection. 

The spacing is of high interest, and I agree that finer lines lend it to a better look as it's a wood imitation. Could someone comment on possible grout issues and what type of grout might mitigate potential pops?

Apologies to the OP if it's off topic


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MeanWeen said:


> I’ve never seen any of my tile guys use these at all, they do seem pretty handy though. Just trying to understand a bit more. So I guy would probably use these more when they were placing a 24”x12” tile with a tight grout line rather than a 12”x12” with a large grout line? Seem like a no brainer for walls as would be placing the spacer in there anyways. Any drawbacks to these. Cost, Speed? For some reason I can’t see a guy using these in a large office entry. These targeted more towards residential work? Also just realized I’m butting right into the middle of your post MarkJames, sorry about that.


I use them on every job, but yes, large format tiles are where they shine. Planks are rarely flat and most have a bow. You can eliminate the bow with the clips. But the real function is to eliminate lippage.

And they are used in commercial all of the time. You can step (lightly) right after laying tile and in a commercial environment where others ignore your fresh tile signs and walk all over them, this will, at least, Hold the tiles together and not allow them to shift.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Mr Latone said:


> Interesting timing on this thread.
> 
> I am looking at a 8x24 wood look as an option for a room that may have a higher than optimal deflection.
> 
> ...


Grout fails for a few reasons.

1. substrate/structure movement.
2. improper mix
3. wrong grout for application

If you go with an 1/8" joint or larger you can use pretty much any grout. Larger than 1/8" I would not use unsanded. Smaller than an 1/8" I would use unsanded.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Mapei flexcolor cq would be less likely to crack.


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## Mr Latone (Jan 8, 2011)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Grout fails for a few reasons.
> 
> 1. substrate/structure movement.
> 2. improper mix
> ...





MarkJames said:


> Mapei flexcolor cq would be less likely to crack.


This a personal project under consideration. I just know the that I can make things on shelves rattle slightly if I bounce a little mid-span. Gypcrete over subfloor over properly sized I-joist.

Having a crack form in the floor after install (eventually) wouldn't be the worst thing. Having grout chunks popping out over the years would be far worse.


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## kirkdc (Feb 16, 2017)

I guess I'm gettting old but I just dont like the look of those big tiles..or the popular subway "ugly as sh-it "tiles anywhere. Too commercial looking for my taste...plus those big honkers are heavy and bulky to work with. And heck, I don't even like the look of them in commercial settings either.

It looks like you did a good job though.


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