# water damage repair - greenboard in closet?



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Repairing the lower half of a shelf closet, rear, left and right wall sections.
The rear wall houses the plumbing for the bath, where the pipe broke, and the insulation was soaked. Fungus is removed, etc. Everything bleached with the studs sealed with Kilz. Ready to be closed back up.

Owner mentioned the possibility in redoing in greenboard, thinking it may help contain fungus in the future. I'm debating this, since, if the new insulation gets wet again, the walls will have to be reopened anyway to dry out, inspect, etc. 

I understand doing in resistant board in the shower, to prevent areas that are moisture prone from entering the wall/into the wall cavity. But will the greenboard make sense when the water would be travelling from the backside and the insulation is first wet?

What's everyone think?


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## YesMaam27577 (Jan 15, 2010)

artinall said:


> [You said a whole bunch of stuff, then you said......]
> 
> What's everyone think?



I think that greenboard is absolutely useless.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

if the plumber made the repairs why worry about water:whistling also there should be a access panel to get to the plumbing anyways! cause that should be Code so if theres a leak you can turn off the water at the shut off valve:thumbsup:
I wouldn't waste the money on green board I would use 1/2" piece of plywood trim it out prime and paint done deal:thumbsup:


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Regular drywall it is.

Is it okay to cover around all copper pipes with batt insulation? Maybe leave a small tearout for the shoutoff valve (in access panel)? 

I guess there's really no concern about damp insulation from pipe condensation?


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## Insuranceclaims (Aug 31, 2009)

Use regular drywall. If:

1) the framing was properly dried and tested with a moisture meter, 
2) framing properly cleaned of mold (bleach doesn't clean mold; only the surface)
2) wood framing sealed, and
3) plumbing repairs done properly,including proper caulking around the shower fixtures,

I am not sure why you are putting insulation in an interior wall.

I like other recommendations for an access panel....make it a big one. If there is water damage again, the drywall will probably be removed anyway.


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## racer (Jun 21, 2010)

*water damage*

HI 

i had faced the same prob .....and i wasted my time as well ..
i would recommend you to go with professional water damage restoration company
:thumbsup:


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## Home Remodeler (Jun 9, 2010)

artinall said:


> Repairing the lower half of a shelf closet, rear, left and right wall sections.
> The rear wall houses the plumbing for the bath, where the pipe broke, and the insulation was soaked. Fungus is removed, etc. Everything bleached with the studs sealed with Kilz. Ready to be closed back up.
> 
> Owner mentioned the possibility in redoing in greenboard, thinking it may help contain fungus in the future. I'm debating this, since, if the new insulation gets wet again, the walls will have to be reopened anyway to dry out, inspect, etc.
> ...


Green board aint goin to do nothing good .. why?? its paper just green paper ... sorry ....... you pay more for the same thing as plain whit boards ... want the skinny on what works.. pm me arty:


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## sherllin (Jun 24, 2010)

Hi

The green board you are using is seriously useless. I would prefer you not to waste your time, just do consult with a expert. get rid of this problem ASAP before it will create big problem.

Good Luck!


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## martingh (Jan 20, 2012)

sherllin said:


> Hi
> 
> The green board you are using is seriously useless. I would prefer you not to waste your time, just do consult with a expert. get rid of this problem ASAP before it will create big problem.
> 
> Good Luck!


I absolutely agree with you Sherllin. In such situations, everyone should be very careful and consult with experts only.


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## Robinson_Cnst (Jan 5, 2012)

If the mold in the wall cavity is properly cleaned, then regular rock will be fine. Green board is a joke, I stock only gp densarmor for my jobs.


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## Mudshark (Feb 12, 2009)

Robinson_Cnst said:


> If the mold in the wall cavity is properly cleaned, then regular rock will be fine. Green board is a joke, I stock only gp densarmor for my jobs.



I agree with many of the posters that the green board is likely not needed in this circumstance. However if the homeowner wants it I would tell him that and if he still wants it put it in anyway to make him feel good. Only a few bucks extra per sheet.


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## sandshots (Feb 7, 2012)

put green board to keep the homeowner happy.


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## wipetmpufru (9 mo ago)

artinall said:


> Repairing the lower half of a shelf closet, rear, left and right wall sections.
> The rear wall houses the plumbing for the bath, where the pipe broke, and the insulation was soaked. Fungus is removed, etc. Everything bleached with the studs sealed with Kilz. Ready to be closed back up.
> 
> Owner mentioned the possibility in redoing in greenboard, thinking it may help contain fungus in the future. I'm debating this, since, if the new insulation gets wet again, the walls will have to be reopened anyway to dry out, inspect, etc.
> ...


I need some advice with this- when damaged tiles are replaced and the green board behind them has had the green facing torn away, should that section of damaged green board also be replaced.The latest repair they did for me, they put 2 new tiles on wet green board that had no green facing, with caulking, not thinset. I am looking for long term performance, not a quick easy repair for them.


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## Ayangonz (Apr 6, 2011)

wipetmpufru said:


> I need some advice with this- when damaged tiles are replaced and the green board behind them has had the green facing torn away, should that section of damaged green board also be replaced.The latest repair they did for me, they put 2 new tiles on wet green board that had no green facing, with caulking, not thinset. I am looking for long term performance, not a quick easy repair for them.


Mitigation and restoration companies follow the NASI/IICRC S500 and S520 when it comes to water damage.

First you need to verify the level of contamination. Water that came from a clean source such as a water line is considered category 1 water contamination. Water that spills from say a washing machine with soap is category 2. Sewer water is Category 3 otherwise known as "Black Water". 

Microbial growth starts when something is wet for 48 to 72 hours. Therefore, Cat 1 water that has been spilled and has been sitting for over 48 hours becomes Cat 3. 

Any porous materials wet with cat 3 water must be removed. Any insulation that has become wet must be removed regardless of the cat of water.

Any areas where water migrated or is suspected to have migrated must be removed to expose cavities and crevices to verify the presence of microbial growth or water damage. So if water got behind baseboard, the baseboard is removed and if the water wicked up the drywall behind the baseboard, it too has to be removed to access the cavity behind the wall and open the area for decontamination and drying. If it got behind cabinets, they have to be removed.

If you have drywall behind a tile wall that got wet, it has to be removed. So, basically, you have to re-tile.

Unless the area in question is in what is considered a "wet area" such as around a shower, regular drywall is fine. 

Installing a sealer on wood framing, installing green board, Dens Shield, or any other product such as Durarock, does not prevent microbial growth. Microbial growth will grow on the surface of any material as long as it has three things. Dampness (I.E. water), darkness, (I.E. the back of cabinets or inside partition walls, and food (I.E. building materials).

If you have a broken pipe situation, that is a covered loss. If you know a restoration or mitigation company, go to them and offer them the lead in exchange for letting you see how they handle the process and billing. 

Insurance claim work is very lucrative and profitable. 

If you want to start learning about it, find an IICRC Water Restoration Technician (WRT) class and get certified. Then find a reputable mitigation company and work for them as you learn the industry.

If you own a company and want to get into this highly profitable area, find a mentor that will be willing to teach it to you.

When I say profitable, I mean an average of 50% plus or more net per year on insurance work if you know what you are doing.


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## Ayangonz (Apr 6, 2011)

Ayangonz said:


> Mitigation and restoration companies follow the NASI/IICRC S500 and S520 when it comes to water damage.
> 
> First you need to verify the level of contamination. Water that came from a clean source such as a water line is considered category 1 water contamination. Water that spills from say a washing machine with soap is category 2. Sewer water is Category 3 otherwise known as "Black Water".
> 
> ...


A correction to the post. Any porous materials contaminated with Cat 3 water such as drywall, carpet or partial board must be removed. Framing materials such as wood studs can be cleaned, decontaminated, dried in place and sealed. 

Never use biocides to decontaminate inside a residential home. 

Only use over the counter products that you can find at a local store such as bleach to decontaminate and clean inside a residential home.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

WTF are you doing replying to this HO?


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