# From Flushers to Angle heads



## dicksdrywall (Aug 14, 2008)

Hey all,

Looking for some advice on how to properly use these Northstar angle heads I just bought second hand. I've haven't used them yet. I've been using corner flushers up until now after applying mud with a tube and corner applicator. 

So there's a 2.5 and a 3.5, and I've read that it's 3.5 first, then 2.5 after to finish, but then I've also heard the opposite. What is yor experience? 

How well and close to three ways float out? Will I still need to tune them up?


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## d's (Mar 16, 2008)

I use my northstar 2.5 and 3.5 with the applicator tube - I use a zip tie to take the tension off the clamp so they still swivel nicely. I do the 2.5 first then the 3.5. Just go corner to corner, ceiling to floor, corner to corner. There's no way to get around picking the corners.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

dicksdrywall said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Looking for some advice on how to properly use these Northstar angle heads I just bought second hand. I've haven't used them yet. I've been using corner flushers up until now after applying mud with a tube and corner applicator.
> 
> ...


I agree that the previous poster is correct in telling that you will always have to "pick" the corner" just no way around that.

I use the bigger head first and then the smaller head, most do, but some use the smaller than the bigger. If you use smaller to bigger, you will need to "speed" sand the corners and angles first, to elimanate any trash, if you don't you will end up with alot of trash, that will leave a bunch of grooves in the corner, that will have to be side swiped before sanding.

Just try it both ways and figure out which you like best. I sand with a porta-cable so the tiny edge left (really tiny) by the smaller head is of no concern when sanding.


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## dicksdrywall (Aug 14, 2008)

So, tried the big to small combo and wasn't too keen on it. 

After rolling the tapes in, I used the 3.5 head on a handle and it floated out the left over mud nicely. Then after boxing all the seams and flats, there was a groove left at each inside 90, no big deal I figured. Used the sponge and knife to knock off anything high, then used the 2.5 head on the angle box for the final coat. Worked great. Except for in the grooves it left mud with bubbles that I had to go back and skim out again. Also in some places the mud was quite thick, almost creating a humped corner. 
Any advice?


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

dicksdrywall said:


> So, tried the big to small combo and wasn't too keen on it.
> 
> After rolling the tapes in, I used the 3.5 head on a handle and it floated out the left over mud nicely. Then after boxing all the seams and flats, there was a groove left at each inside 90, no big deal I figured. Used the sponge and knife to knock off anything high, then used the 2.5 head on the angle box for the final coat. Worked great. Except for in the grooves it left mud with bubbles that I had to go back and skim out again. Also in some places the mud was quite thick, almost creating a humped corner.
> Any advice?


What are you using to run the heads,,, a corner box or a mudrunner ??


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## dicksdrywall (Aug 14, 2008)

I've been using an angle box. Not terribly concerned about the sanding, mostly the bubbles when filling the groove at flats and butt joints. Maybe my mud is haywire?


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

dicksdrywall said:


> I've been using an angle box. Not terribly concerned about the sanding, mostly the bubbles when filling the groove at flats and butt joints. Maybe my mud is haywire?


If I understand your post correctly, You are haveing problems because you are running your tools over wet mud, causing the groves, and not filling the flat ALL the way into the corner. You need to fill the flat back into the corner, start wiping the flat about a foot, then re-insert your knife into the corner and press abit with your "drive" finger, forcing a bit of mud into the "groove", then comense with your wiping the flat. The only thing I can think of that would cause a groove where a flat and butt meet, is running over wet mud. Tools will always leave a groove when run over wet mud. You need to figure out what the problem is about the grooves, using bigger then smaller or smaller than bigger will not help or have an effect on the groove thing.

Peace


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## dicksdrywall (Aug 14, 2008)

The groove is inside the 90 corner. Say I put the box right into the corner, and lay on a coat on the horizontal. There is always a 1/16 to 3/32 high start to the band of mud off the inside. When I come back at the end with the head and angle box, it floats out the corner nicely, until it crosses where my butts and flats start inside the corners, the mud is all bubbly. 
I haven't been running wet over wet, not that skilled.
This only happens when I'm using the Auto tools.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

dicksdrywall said:


> The groove is inside the 90 corner. Say I put the box right into the corner, and lay on a coat on the horizontal. There is always a 1/16 to 3/32 high start to the band of mud off the inside. When I come back at the end with the head and angle box, it floats out the corner nicely, until it crosses where my butts and flats start inside the corners, the mud is all bubbly.
> I haven't been running wet over wet, not that skilled.
> This only happens when I'm using the Auto tools.


Please re-read the previous post, the box will not go ALL the way into the corner, you must wipe the flat a bit, then re-insert the knife into the corner, press (filling the groove) and then commence to wiping. Just like hand finishing, you MUST make sure that the mud is all the way into the corner.


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## jmr (Apr 14, 2009)

Capt-Sheetrock said:


> I agree that the previous poster is correct in telling that you will always have to "pick" the corner" just no way around that.
> 
> I use the bigger head first and then the smaller head, most do, but some use the smaller than the bigger. If you use smaller to bigger, you will need to "speed" sand the corners and angles first, to elimanate any trash, if you don't you will end up with alot of trash, that will leave a bunch of grooves in the corner, that will have to be side swiped before sanding.
> 
> Just try it both ways and figure out which you like best. I sand with a porta-cable so the tiny edge left (really tiny) by the smaller head is of no concern when sanding.


for years i've been glazing with the 2.5 first then the 3" to finish.. your right about 'speed' sanding though and i never thought about that. if you use the 3 first that eliminates the need to presand when finishing.. interesting  i think i shall try it that way.

the only problem i run into is it seems a lot harder to glaze with the bigger head. maybe i'll adjust my mudflow.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

jmr said:


> for years i've been glazing with the 2.5 first then the 3" to finish.. your right about 'speed' sanding though and i never thought about that. if you use the 3 first that eliminates the need to presand when finishing.. interesting  i think i shall try it that way.
> 
> the only problem i run into is it seems a lot harder to glaze with the bigger head. maybe i'll adjust my mudflow.


Yes you are correct, it is harder to use the biggy first sometimes. I have some friends that get me to help them somtimes, they are old sckool hard tales, and insist on taping by hand and then getting me to run the heads over them. When you do this, you MUST thin your mud past legal restrictiojns, or get two big men and a small boy to push the angle box,LOL.

For speed sanding I use a corner sander I got from All-Wall that fits a sand pole handle, it sands both sides, it has velcro pads that can be adjusted to hit the center, or hit the edges.

Personally I use the mudrunner from tape-tech, works great, but will NOT handle thick mud AT ALL. Its the best money I ever spent on a corner tool


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## dicksdrywall (Aug 14, 2008)

Ok Cap, I think I get it now. I'll try that on Monday.

Thank you kindly!

~Dick~


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

dicksdrywall said:


> Ok Cap, I think I get it now. I'll try that on Monday.
> 
> Thank you kindly!
> 
> ~Dick~


Glad to help, if I can. PM me if you want to talk about it


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## d's (Mar 16, 2008)

Hey Capt,

What make is that corner sander?

D'S


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## jmr (Apr 14, 2009)

Capt-Sheetrock said:


> Yes you are correct, it is harder to use the biggy first sometimes. I have some friends that get me to help them somtimes, they are old sckool hard tales, and insist on taping by hand and then getting me to run the heads over them. When you do this, you MUST thin your mud past legal restrictiojns, or get two big men and a small boy to push the angle box,LOL.
> 
> For speed sanding I use a corner sander I got from All-Wall that fits a sand pole handle, it sands both sides, it has velcro pads that can be adjusted to hit the center, or hit the edges.
> 
> Personally I use the mudrunner from tape-tech, works great, but will NOT handle thick mud AT ALL. Its the best money I ever spent on a corner tool


yeah i thin my mud almost to knock down texture consistency, it gets messy.. i absolutely hate angling out, its the worst part of taping IMO.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

d's said:


> Hey Capt,
> 
> What make is that corner sander?
> 
> D'S


Can't remember right now, (I'm into my second bottle of the recipe,, I make my own), but I'll try to look it up tomarrow for ya. It runs about $40 bucks, but it works great.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Pole-Sanders/Ultimate90-Drywall-Corner-Sander


Maybe this is it


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

AARC Drywall said:


> http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Pole-Sanders/Ultimate90-Drywall-Corner-Sander
> 
> 
> Maybe this is it


Yes that is it,,, and I need to apoligize for not getting back with it, after stating that I would. 

I really dropped the ball on this one.

Sorry guys


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