# Mudsill Cupping Question



## jb9 (Jan 13, 2017)

Hello,

I am getting ready to frame the floor (2x10s) on my workshop. I did the footing and stem wall with ICFs. I just got the mudsill on the stem wall which are 2x12s PT because I am going to have SIPS bear on them while my posts (timber frame) will be against the Simpson Tie Downs. Anyhow, I have one butt joint where there is a bit of cupping going on. I can partially push it down with my body weight but I'm concerned I won't be able to get it flush with the adjoining section of mudsill. Should I not be concerned and just assume toe nailing the rim joist with galvies will take care of this? I spent $$$ on an EPDM gasket and I really would like the floor to start out level.

I am attaching a couple of photos to show the cupping and the overall progress.

Thanks in advance. 

This is my first effort so I'm taking it slow and trying to get a good result.


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

Tear it all out and start over, it's ruined 

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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

put a tapcon in it and suck it down.

if tapcon doesn't work use a titen.


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## mrcat (Jun 27, 2015)

^^^ What Griz said^^^


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Are any joists going to land on that joint?

If not, after you do what griz said, then nail a block to bridge both boards
to keep them even. When you nail them down shoot your nails at opposite angles from each other so they can't pull out if the wood shrinks or tries to cup back up more.


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## jb9 (Jan 13, 2017)

Thank you, these are all helpful suggestions. There won't be a joist landing on the joint (16" OC) but I have been thinking about the blocking idea as a bridge too. I'm probably underestimating the weight of the floor deck as being able to suck down the cupping. I'm going to see if some GRK R4 screws (#9 or #10) might be able to suck down the rim joist in this location. When I attach the rim, I'll definitely start on the cupped section of the sill and try and use the screws to suck it down... maybe even a 2x4 strongback on the inside of the rim joist (glued and screwed) to pull it down. The rim joist may also have so much rigidity that I will be able to lever it down on the far end. 

Thanks for all these thoughts so far... I had a rough weekend. I have a great deal of respect for all the knowledgeable pros here.


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## Jay hole (Nov 12, 2013)

One thing I have noticed is if you get your material from a big box store that is nice and air conditioned. As soon as you get it outside the door into the dry hot air, you can watch the twisting and turning as you load them!!!!!! 
So there’s s good chance there will be more tomorrow!!!!!


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## Caleb1989 (May 26, 2018)

As a young framers apprentice, I had a similar question. The old curmudgeon just told me “weight will bring it down”

You can try wetting the boards down with a hose periodically before you run the rim and solid blocking, you would be amazed how supple wood gets again when wet.


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## B.Johnson (Sep 17, 2016)

I'm looking forward to seeing more of your timber framed workshop, you should start a thread and keep posting pictures.


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## Martin K (Dec 2, 2017)

x2 ^^^^


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## jb9 (Jan 13, 2017)

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement. I really appreciate it. I may have some more dumb questions as I start to frame the deck this week. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the joinery I painstakingly cut this past winter. I can't wait until the timbers are in the air!


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## Martin K (Dec 2, 2017)

Very cool. There's a youtube channel, "Fouch Family Off-Grid" that you may like. The guy built a timber frame house essentially by himself except for the actual raising. He even milled all the timbers from trees he cut down on his property. 

He's now in the process of building a steel and timber frame shop. Pretty interesting stuff. Anyway, keep the pics coming and have fun. :thumbsup:


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## jb9 (Jan 13, 2017)

Next question...

How do I patch screw holes in my rim joist from bracing?

PL400? Titebond II?

Thanks for answering all my questions and indulging my OCD.

Frame went up today. First time with the Gradall! 

I was terrified :laughing:


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

do you need to patch them?

#10 or 12 screw holes will likely dam near disappear on their own.

if they are obnoxious to you bore them out and install a plug of either the same species lumber or a contrast. 

you could do the same thing by chiseling them square, to an appealing size, and plugging as mentioned above.

cool looking structure...:thumbsup:


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