# Sealing Metal Valley Section



## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

This metal roof has a secondary valley beneath it that dumps into an adjoining structure, so I'm trying to seal it up. There are two of these valleys bordering a center hip section that was later added over an existing structure to mate the connected building. 

That 'broken corner' I've expanded to show the black material used beneath it (optimistically, anyway)

- Should the bubbles first be cut out?

- Different patches were used throughout. Look close and you'll notice the cracking on the black patch. That was also put on the nailheads as was the grey stuff. What might be used here?

- What about the seam (final pic). Should some tape be first applied before patching/mastic is applied?

*Looking for decent grade materials with compatibility.*
Then there is the cleaning/prep. Seems to have some embedded growth in it.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

What a mess some one made!! right way would be to tear it off and start over, but that probably is not in the buget. I will have to do a second look at these when come back from the lake Sunday.


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## bretth0214 (Sep 20, 2009)

There would be no guarantee from me to patch that mess....I would make sure they know I will give it my best effort, but that the only way I would guarantee it is with a whole new roof. 

The problem I see is the chance of that or an area nearby leaking again is pretty good with just a "patch" and once you were the last guy to touch it, it will be your problem at least in the homeowners eyes.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

bretth0214 said:


> The problem I see is the chance of that or an area nearby leaking again is pretty good with just a "patch" and once you were the last guy to touch it, it will be your problem at least in the homeowners eyes.


But what would you use to patch it?


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## AndyWRS (Sep 12, 2010)

It is quite possible this is a simple leak repair, but its been morphed into a complete cluster F by the application of GOO. 

If i was you i would thoughly water test it, try to pin point the leak or leaks. You may be able to solve it and do a more professional long term fix vs adding more liquid prayer. If this was a friend of mine who had no $, that is what i would try in lieu of taking it appart and starting over. Depending on what the issue was, all or most of the existing metal could be reinstalled, but i suspect you are in need of a less costly solution.

IMO, based on the pics, its doable without a ton of GOO. Without seeing the entire situation that is my opinion, Wider shots avail ?


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

What an absolute mess.


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## kage (Aug 17, 2008)

:blink:


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

this reminds me of people who take roofing cement and smear it all in the valley of a shingle roof thinking that its going to fix the problem... WRONG!


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

after looking at the pics again.. are those nails?? what in the world was this person thinking? i mean ive seen older metal roofs installed with nails but they had specific type washers on them i would say just take off and start over. you might have a hard time finding leaks especially if there is more than one. best of luck to you on this!


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## kage (Aug 17, 2008)

JWilliams said:


> this reminds me of people who take roofing cement and smear it all in the valley of a shingle roof thinking that its going to fix the problem... WRONG!


HA!! had a so called roofer on another forum saying it works..:laughing:


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

dude must be out of his mind. smearing crap all over the problem isn't going to fix it. I look at it that you doing that is just making it worse. So don't make the problem worse don't do it.


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## ExtremePride (Oct 27, 2010)

If I was to do that job, the first step I would take would be to install a wider valley pan, may have to bend yourself. Make it wide enough to get rid of that ugly crap.


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## Guttersmiths (Jul 30, 2012)

Start from scratch in that section of the roof. I wouldn't touch it with a patch, I'd probably recommend they contact a handyman if they can't afford to do it the right way.


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## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

I do roofing when needed to pay the bills and i must say that is a mess. It appears to me that someone use a section of metal roof "valley between the ribs" for that valley and simply nailed it on. Like others have said you are better off pulling the metal roof off in that area and starting over. I prefer to ice/water shield across the valley starting at the bottom and then i run a piece down through from top to bottom. Then i prefer to use aluminum coil for the valley flashing, i nail this down with nails/rubber washers and caulk the heads. I would cut the tin back before re installing it so the valley is wider too.


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## Red Adobe (Jul 26, 2008)

I agree some moron and his bucket of goo.

1st thing is use W - valley or 2 pieces of a J type
2nd should always use closures
3rd Screws !


From what I can see and understand using a big J trim on both side would be the easier way out. Youl just have to free up the ends of the sheets for say 4 ft and slide new trims under add univeral closures and screw it all down then seal ir add a cap to the seam of the 2 new trims

hope that makes sence


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## JWilliams (Nov 11, 2008)

Makes sense to me.


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## ReidSchneider (Nov 7, 2012)

We would address that problem with the Conklin Metal Restoration System.

1. Remove all loose/flaky coatings. Obviously it was a poor quality coating.

2. Pressure wash area with Rust Off, a metal etching cleaner

3. Apply Metal Ready, a rust inhibiting metal primer

4. Embed SpunFlex II, spun woven fabric, in Conklin's Base Coat

5. Apply Conklin's Top Coat

We install the Conklin Metal Restoration System on commercial metal roofs and offer an 18 year leak-free warranty. Conklin Roofing Systems are proven to perform. Let me know if you would like more information on Conklin Roofing Systems. I would be glad to help.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

Thanks ReidSchneider


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## ReidSchneider (Nov 7, 2012)

You're welcome artinall. From what I can see in the pictures, we would not be afraid to tackle that job. Proper prep work and a quality system such as Conklin Roofing Systems are key to completing this job successfully.


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## drumster21 (Oct 31, 2012)

I can't tell if that is a valley from the pictures. If so and it has a decent pitch, pull the screws and all the crap up and slide a new, wide thick gauge metal underneath the actual roofing panels right on top of the old valley piece. Coatings last a couple years and spreading roof cement only traps the water and tracks it in different directions when it cracks. You can even run a bead of good caulking underneath the panels in between them and the new piece you put in. Then screw it back down with screws and neoprene washers.


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