# 3D Math. Raising a floor to ceiling refridge cab



## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

OK, I have a refrigerator cabinet that is floor to ceiling minus a bit for the crown molding. The cabinet is 40 1/8" wide, 25 1/4" deep and 96 1/2" tall.

I can cut a triangle out of the side that goes against a wall of cabinets. The triangle starts 4" from the front (bottom) and goes up 33" (mid back).

How do I measure the corner to corner dimension. I need to lift this cabinet in a 97 1/2" floor to ceiling space.

I did a rendering on my eCabs program but I'm not sure if I pulled the measurement on the correct places. Here is the rendering










According to my measurement of 99"+ I can't do it. Just trying to see if I am calculating it correctly.


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

Leo G said:


> OK, I have a refrigerator cabinet that is floor to ceiling minus a bit for the crown molding. The cabinet is 40 1/8" wide, 25 1/4" deep and 96 1/2" tall.
> 
> I can cut a triangle out of the side that goes against a wall of cabinets. The triangle starts 4" from the front (bottom) and goes up 33" (mid back).
> 
> ...


Are you saying you have to tilt it to get it in?


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## BoGoCo (Jun 10, 2012)

Can't get sketchup to measure off plane, but definitely more than 97 1/2"
Hope this helps


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## J L (Nov 16, 2009)

Looks like you're sketch is right Leo. You drew a line between the tilt points and measured to the opposite corner from there.

Do they have any floor registers for HVAC? You might be able to take off the cover plate and drop the triangle side down in as you're tilting up to get you an extra few inches.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

Are you making this cabinet...:blink:


B,


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Yes B, I am making that cabinet. I have to figure out how I need to make it so I can stand it up in the kitchen. One think I could do is make it really soon and get it in the house while there is no ceiling up. Then they could move it around and destroy the finish before I get the rest built


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

Leo G said:


> Yes B, I am making that cabinet. I have to figure out how I need to make it so I can stand it up in the kitchen. One think I could do is make it really soon and get it in the house while there is no ceiling up. Then they could move it around and destroy the finish before I get the rest built


Can you assemble it in place? (Maybe a dumb question?)


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## Willin (Aug 20, 2012)

Design and build it so it goes in as components, whether doweled, biscuited, or domino-ed together, aided by pocket screws and glue. Make reveals part of the solution.

That's what I've done for reefer cases. Get creative. Think outside that reefer box.


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## Live_oak (Jul 22, 2013)

The method that I usually use with factory built cabinets is to have each of the side panels separate, with the center deep cabinet attached in the field. You place one side panel in place, against the adjacent wall cabinet to secure, install the deep refrigerator cabinet, then the other side panel. If you're going really tight in to the ceiling, you can make the side panels shorter to gain clearance, and then use baseboard molding at the bottom to conceal that. My installer also usually does a couple of metal L brackets for the side panels against the walls to give them additional stability. Hope that helps!


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Leo G said:


> Yes B, I am making that cabinet. I have to figure out how I need to make it so I can stand it up in the kitchen. One think I could do is make it really soon and get it in the house while there is no ceiling up. Then they could move it around and destroy the finish before I get the rest built


Making it so the crown is a single removable unit, then boxing the whole thing up in place (minus the crown) to protect the finish may be viable. 

The ones I've done that have to be easily removable I'll scribe / cut an arc on the casing that allows removal / installation clearance and have the crown hide the cut sides. That's probably too unsightly for what you want. I'll also do the same basic thing, except cut the arc on the bottom of the unit, and use base mold to conceal it.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

wallmaxx said:


> Can you assemble it in place? (Maybe a dumb question?)


Trying to avoid that if I can. It takes long enough to put a kitchen in without having to do assembly there too.

But assembling it in place is the option I have right now.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Willin said:


> Design and build it so it goes in as components, whether doweled, biscuited, or domino-ed together, aided by pocket screws and glue. Make reveals part of the solution.
> 
> That's what I've done for reefer cases. Get creative. Think outside that reefer box.


Problem is that it's a painted cabinet. And I like all joints, corners and whatnot to be free of seams or joints. I've done some pretty creative cutting to get a cabinet to stand up. Usually I can figure out how to do it in the eCabs program. But this one is probably going to have to be assembled in the field unless I bring it there before the ceiling goes up.

Someone mentioned dropping a leg in a register. I gotta remember that one :thumbsup:

But this house has old fashion radiators, so no go on a good idea.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

hdavis said:


> Making it so the crown is a single removable unit, then boxing the whole thing up in place (minus the crown) to protect the finish may be viable.
> 
> The ones I've done that have to be easily removable I'll scribe / cut an arc on the casing that allows removal / installation clearance and have the crown hide the cut sides. That's probably too unsightly for what you want. I'll also do the same basic thing, except cut the arc on the bottom of the unit, and use base mold to conceal it.


I've done that before also. This crown is tiny. Only goes up 2". So I will leave a 1" space between the ceiling and the top of the cabinet to get my 3" top rail height.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I would make the top cab and side panels seperate - it's not that difficult...less BS to deal with.....

Extend your FF past the side panels on the upper cab......etc,etc,....you already know.....


Just a suggestion...



B,


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

What I'll likely do if I don't have a choice is to make the left side of the cabinet which is the end of the run, attached and glued to the FF and have the side towards the run of cabinets be the side that I attach. 

I'm not happy about it at all.


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## Windwash (Dec 23, 2007)

Leo G said:


> OK, I have a refrigerator cabinet that is floor to ceiling minus a bit for the crown molding. The cabinet is 40 1/8" wide, 25 1/4" deep and 96 1/2" tall.
> 
> I can cut a triangle out of the side that goes against a wall of cabinets. The triangle starts 4" from the front (bottom) and goes up 33" (mid back).
> 
> ...


I would probably make a mock-up with some 1/2"-1" rigid foam or osb and a few 1x4s and start whittling away at it until it tips up and in. Then you have a template you know fits in the space.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Windwash said:


> I would probably make a mock-up with some 1/2"-1" rigid foam or osb and a few 1x4s and start whittling away at it until it tips up and in. Then you have a template you know fits in the space.


Unfortunately, math doesn't lie, there is no way.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Leo G said:


> This crown is tiny.


Then it's a no go no matter what you do. Not that I'd recommend it, but as a last resort, I have put a beam along the center of the ceiling, and jacked it a little. It still wouldn't get you the ~2 1/2 inches you need.


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## Windwash (Dec 23, 2007)

hdavis said:


> Unfortunately, math doesn't lie, there is no way.


I didn't do the math, just stated how I would check to make sure it fit. Not a cabinet builder. Math doesn't know if you missed a variable :whistling:no::laughing:.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Can you hinge it at the top... stand it up.... slide the legs inward... and lock it with minimal fastening?

Similar to this.

The back (if you're using one) could be also hinged, but at the bottom of the cabinet box? ... to swing forward, under the box.

All your "locking" could be done from the inside. Because of the pre-installed hinges (piano?), all the alignment would already be done... just some minor tweaking and some screws.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Nope, can't do that.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

If you don't want seams, I don't see any other way but skinning and site-spraying the sides... just have it prepped ahead...

Other option is if you are doing furniture grade, you could add a base to the sides for the unit to sit on that it inserts into... lift and slide after securing it to floor... fill and site spray the seam (or touch-up brush)...

You could also use the side-panel option, but one other thing you could add is a decorative trim on the corners...

You could also Increase the crown molding size and box/slide it into place...


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

I entered a rise of 96-1/2" a run of 25-5/16", returns a diagonal of 99-3/4". That is how I figure the diagonal.

Tom


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

You mean a rise of 96 1/2. 

You can't have the opposite and the hypotenuse the same length unless the adjacent side is zero. Then all you have is two overlapping lines.

Plus you are only thinking 2D.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

OK, so cut out the floor under where the adjoining cabinets will be, stand it up, slide it over, repair floor, put in the rest of the cabs. If the joists go the right way:whistling

Could make it easy for plumbing...


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That'll get my gears turning tonight.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Nothing like creative destruction...


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Leo G said:


> You mean a rise of 96 1/2.
> 
> You can't have the opposite and the hypotenuse the same length unless the adjacent side is zero. Then all you have is two overlapping lines.
> 
> Plus you are only thinking 2D.


Yep, miss typed the rise. I have fixed it.

2D or 3D the hypotenuse is the same. The width does not affect the diagonal. 

Can you leave the back off just the upper cabinet, slot the ceiling, stand the cab up then install the back on the upper? You may have to stand the cab then rotate it in place depending on joist direction. 

Tom


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I'm doubting the sheetrocker would want me to do that.


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## Willin (Aug 20, 2012)

All in pieces, all prefinished, came out OK


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Stained vs painted. I wouldn't care much with a stained cabinet. You can hide the joints pretty well. With painted, especially white, you see everything.

What I'll end up doing is gluing up the FF but not the removable side. Put pocket screws in the bottom side of the deck and the topside of the top. Paint the cabinet and then put it apart at each step so I don't get a thick bridge of paint over the FF joint. After I install it I'll fill what gap/crack remains with crayon or blendal stick. It'll be hard to see the joint, but an experienced eye will catch it.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Leo G said:


> Stained vs painted. I wouldn't care much with a stained cabinet. You can hide the joints pretty well. With painted, especially white, you see everything.
> 
> What I'll end up doing is gluing up the FF but not the removable side. Put pocket screws in the bottom side of the deck and the topside of the top. Paint the cabinet and then put it apart at each step so I don't get a thick bridge of paint over the FF joint. After I install it I'll fill what gap/crack remains with crayon or blendal stick. It'll be hard to see the joint, but an experienced eye will catch it.


Leo, if you are that concerned about where the panel meets up with the face-frame, why not make it part of the design and use a v-groove bit...

















It would eliminate the issue, make it easy to assemble... problem solved... very common on painted cabs...


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## bconley (Mar 8, 2009)

Install it in pieces and then paint it (or re-paint) in place


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

KAP said:


> Leo, if you are that concerned about where the panel meets up with the face-frame, why not make it part of the design and use a v-groove bit...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know the bit. Not happening. :laughing:


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Leo G said:


> I know the bit. Not happening. :laughing:


Not a fan of it myself (never used it, just have seen it on many painted cabs over the years)... just trying to give you options since apparently you can't spray onsite, which is really the answer... skin in and spray it after assembly.... I gave you other options, but no response on those... there's not much you could do beyond these considering materials choices and site conditions...

Best of luck... 8^)


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Ya, I know. Stuck with assembling it on site. It'll look fine, just hate dealing with assembly on site when I can do it more efficiently in the shop.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

Will there be room to get in there to install pocket screws on the top? 3" space 25" away, angled up might be tricky


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

4" top rail that has a 3/4" top at the bottom of the rail leaves 3 1/4" of space to play in. Shouldn't be an issue.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

I thought I would help out here with a motivational video............:whistling




http://youtu.be/H7AthbqkW68



B,


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