# PT fasteners



## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

What are you guys using for fasteners with the new PT lumber? I'm thinking of going to SS nails but hate filling hammer dents and I'm set up for screws.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

They make SS screws too. They are just a pain in the ass because they are a bit more fragile and subject to heads breaking off.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Where are you finding SS wall screws? I don't mind snapping a few off. Sounds like 316, 400 series or poor design.


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## Guest (Dec 23, 2005)

Teetorbilt said:


> I'm set up for screws.


quick drive? senco? milwaukee? pam??? senco duraspin weatherex III or stainless good for acq, for acq compatible fasteners, you want double HD galv. or type 1 galv. equivelent, or stainless. stay away from electroplated galv or weatherex II or Kylan coated unless you are using cca...


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I went Senco as I don't do a lot of drywall. I also don't deal with a lot of PT, we use it for base plates and capital supports.


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## Guest (Dec 23, 2005)

you shouldnt have any prob finding weatherexIII countersinks (2" or 2.5") bout 40-50 bucks/bucket will work with above mentioned except for quick drive


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## CGofMP (Feb 17, 2005)

Steve, 

I have purchases SS square drive screws at Lowes and I BELIEVE once at HD. I prefer to use the phosphate coated screws at the local Hardware store.

My experience with them was mixed. I had a larger than normal amount of marring and buttering of the drive heads on the screws. I also noted that they tended to bend a lot easier.As was said before, they also snap heads off much easier.

They are NOT cheap. I can not remember what I paid right off, but they were a hell of a lot more pricey than the other stuff.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

CG, money is never the issue. Integrity is. Also need the shorts, furring over block w/ 5/8" FireStop.


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## CGofMP (Feb 17, 2005)

> CG, money is never the issue


:biggrin: For what it is worth coming from a stranger, GREAT FOR YOU Tetor!
:thumbup: 

Someday I hope to be able to say that for everything in general.... In the meantime I'm on a stringent budget and watch myself in these areas.


Seriously however, I am with you, I would rather buy quality goods/services that cost more rather than having to replace them later. I'd rather go without than get junk USUALLY. I do compromise ocassionally, but it is rare. 

About the screws:The SS screws have not failed anywhere I have used them, but they are not in any sort of true load bearing capacity... mostly porch rails etc.

The strength issue will never be tested on the work I have done with them, but they doo seem a might more delicate than what I am used to with the coated stuff I used in other applications.

As for sizing, they came in all sorts of sizes.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Teetorbilt said:


> Where are you finding SS wall screws? I don't mind snapping a few off. Sounds like 316, 400 series or poor design.


Wall screws? You mean like drywall screws? You are attaching drywall to PT?

Regardless, SS screws are everywhere, they are like cockroaches now. I can get them in the big box stores any time or I can order them online. 

As for poor design or 316, there is no 317. 316 is maximum corrosion resistance, maybe you are confusing this with 304 stainless steel? All I know is SS screws are weaker and susceptible to snapping heads off much more often than cheap old screws. Stainless steel is not a superior product for much of anything other than corrosion resistance. Ever see a set of stainless steel knives being sold on late night TV? Good luck for them holding an edge over real knives. 

Regardless if you are having trouble finding them, you can order them here, they have every SS screw or bolt in the world.

http://www.manasquanfasteners.com/Stainless Steel Fastener Product Listings.htm


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Not really drywall screws but I use GRK #8 2 1/2" trim head torx t10 drive SS screws for all my decks. I also use SS gun nails and hanger nails for anything PT. The heads do break more often than I would like but I know that they wont fall apart in a few months. Couple more websites that sell SS fasteners: nailzone.com fcfeelys.com Dont buy at **** Depot or Slowes (Blowes) or whatever they are easily double the cost of buying online.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Drywall to PT is the question. We use it for furring strips when attaching to block walls. Also used for base plates and capital posts.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Wel, then they are available for the asking. All you need is a course threaded bugle head screw that is 1 5/8" long then right? Looks like they are going to run you $.06 apiece in 316 SS if you look at the page I posted and click on bugle heads.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Is PT required for above ground block walls?


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

Mike Finley said:


> Is PT required for above ground block walls?


Out my way, PT is required 'anywhere' wood touches masonry, - - I took for granted it was that way everywhere.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Mike, 1-1/4" is pushing it. 5/8 drywall + 3/4" furring strip + countersink.

Same as Tom R here.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Tom R said:


> Out my way, PT is required 'anywhere' wood touches masonry, - - I took for granted it was that way everywhere.


Good to know, for some reason I thought it was only on slabs or walls with ground contact where water could be an issue.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Teetorbilt said:


> Mike, 1-1/4" is pushing it. 5/8 drywall + 3/4" furring strip + countersink.
> 
> Same as Tom R here.


Teetor, I won't be buying them and sending them to you. You have to do a little work on your own. Pick out the right length and buy the ones you want.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

Mike, Thanks for the help. The head config and code was the only problem that I was having.

BTW, the PT is not just for water, the termites will eat everything else before going to PT.

316SS is the most corrosion resistant to most industries. 316L is used if you are doing basic machining processes, 316 is heII on tooling. 302L and 304L are worse. Being more ductile, they cause buildup on cutters that lead to failure. 317 can be specified and 318 is fairly common in the industry.
400 series is generally use in the cutlery industry. Quality in all varies, you need to know your suppliers.


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

Tom R said:


> Out my way, PT is required 'anywhere' wood touches masonry, - - I took for granted it was that way everywhere.


Yes, everywhere that the IRC is enforced, which is most places now. It is IRC §R319.1


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