# 1/12 pitch roof



## Doubleoh7

Is there any safe way to use architectural shingles on a 1/12 pitch roof? Would it be safe if a double layer of ice and water sheild was used under the shingles. This is for a porch addition that I am building onto a shed for a family member. It will only be 8' wide. Yes, I know, I'm an electrician, but this is a freebie/returning a favor type of job.

Thanks


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## seeyou

It might not leak for a while. Look into a membrane roof. Probably about the same material price as what you're proposing.


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## JumboJack

In my area it is not allowed....YMMV.


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## seeyou

JumboJack said:


> In my area it is not allowed....YMMV.


It's "not allowed" in anybody's area. Neither is drunk driving. But some do things that are not allowed.


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## Doubleoh7

I think single wide mobile home are only 1 1/2 pitch. I wonder what they do on those. Otherwise, I am looking at roll roofing.


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## woodchuck2

seeyou said:


> It might not leak for a while. Look into a membrane roof. Probably about the same material price as what you're proposing.


X2, the membrane roofing is much heavier and stronger. I would try to add some pitch if at all possible.


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## Morning Wood

If it is an unconditioned space it "might" be ok. Of course, it is not allowed by codes or manufacturers.


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## Doubleoh7

woodchuck2 said:


> X2, the membrane roofing is much heavier and stronger. I would try to add some pitch if at all possible.


 
Here is a stupid question for you. What is a membrane roof? Do you have any links to mfrs. I cant add any more pitch.

Thanks


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## shanekw1

Doubleoh7 said:


> I think single wide mobile home are only 1 1/2 pitch. I wonder what they do on those. Otherwise, I am looking at roll roofing.


Shingles right on the roof sheathing, no underlayment but for a 2 foot strip of saran wrap type stuff and 6" of tar at the eaves.


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## loneframer

Doubleoh7 said:


> I think single wide mobile home are only 1 1/2 pitch. I wonder what they do on those. Otherwise, I am looking at roll roofing.





shanekw1 said:


> Shingles right on the roof sheathing, no underlayment but for a 2 foot strip of saran wrap type stuff and 6" of tar at the eaves.


 That's the final answer on that subject.:laughing:


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## Doubleoh7

shanekw1 said:


> Shingles right on the roof sheathing, no underlayment but for a 2 foot strip of saran wrap type stuff and 6" of tar at the eaves.


 
What would you do in this situation? The porch addition wll only be 8' wide and it will be 34' long. It is an open porch on the side of an outbuilding. The building currently has architectural shingles.

I saw the thread where you redid the addition to your father in laws trailer.


Thanks


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## Tinstaafl

EPDM (rubber). Comes in 10x50' rolls. Not nearly as pretty as shingles by any stretch of the imagination, but that's the most bulletproof "DIY" roof I know of.

Your local yard can set you up with everything you need, and tell you how to use it.


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## WarnerConstInc.

Just use 30lb felt and shingle that *****.

It's not for anything important and it may have to be replaced after 15 years or so.


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## shanekw1

Doubleoh7 said:


> What would you do in this situation? The porch addition wll only be 8' wide and it will be 34' long. It is an open porch on the side of an outbuilding. The building currently has architectural shingles.
> 
> I saw the thread where you redid the addition to your father in laws trailer.
> 
> 
> Thanks


For a porch?(not sure what you mean by that) on a shed, I would not feel bad at all about putting ice and water lapped 12-16", run at least 24" up the existing steeper roof, then cover with shingles with a reduced exposure.

Tar the nails if you feel bad.


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## Doubleoh7

shanekw1 said:


> For a porch?(not sure what you mean by that) on a shed, I would not feel bad at all about putting ice and water lapped 12-16", run at least 24" up the existing steeper roof, then cover with shingles with a reduced exposure.
> 
> Tar the nails if you feel bad.


 
Yeah, it is a literally a porch on a shed. The shed is 16 x 32 and the porch will extend down one side and be supported by 4 4x6 posts. That is what I'll do then. Just to be safe I will use a double layer under the shingles overlapped 18".


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## jhark123

It's a freebie, so you won't have to warrantee.

I would just explain that any 1/12 roof w/o torch down or membrane may leak.

I'd do two layers of 30lb, tar the nails, tell them it will need replacement in 5-7years and call it a day.


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## Doubleoh7

jhark123 said:


> It's a freebie, so you won't have to warrantee.
> 
> I would just explain that any 1/12 roof w/o torch down or membrane may leak.
> 
> I'd do two layers of 30lb, tar the nails, tell them it will need replacement in 5-7years and call it a day.


 

Would Ice and water sheild be better? Material cost is not an issue within reason. Especially if it buys a longer roof life.


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## shanekw1

Doubleoh7 said:


> Would Ice and water sheild be better?


Yes.


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## Doubleoh7

shanekw1 said:


> Yes.


 
It was sort of a rhetorical question. You do look like Julian. Trailer Park Boy is a great name for you.


Thanks Again!


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## AustinDB

if this is a porch on a trailer, use corrugated sheet material (can be found at Lowes); comes in colors and an opaque color which would allow light into the area below.


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## Doubleoh7

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Just use 30lb felt and shingle that *****.
> 
> It's not for anything important and it may have to be replaced after 15 years or so.


 
Shed is a bit of an understatement. It is actually a pretty nice building.


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## shanekw1

Doubleoh7 said:


> You do look like Julian. Trailer Park Boy is a great name for you.
> 
> 
> Thanks Again!


<----- Not me, dude.:laughing: That _is_ Julian.


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## deckman22

No way I'd use shingles, metal roofing works fine on 1/12 pitch roof. Look at the wrapping on the shingles says 3/12 pitch minimum. I've torn down more than one roof that was rotting the plywood in less than 5 years that were shallow pitched roofs with shingles. You might be doing a freebie or swapping work whatever, but I bet your buddy expects you to do it right. 

Forget about the metal roofing at Home Cheapo, go to a roofing supply house & get some rainguard/channel drain or some other quality metal, won't cost much more than the cheapo stuff.


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## Doubleoh7

I don't want to use metal because I do not want to transition from shingles to the metal roof. I don't even know if that is possible.


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## Doubleoh7

deckman22 said:


> No way I'd use shingles, metal roofing works fine on 1/12 pitch roof. Look at the wrapping on the shingles says 3/12 pitch minimum. I've torn down more than one roof that was rotting the plywood in less than 5 years that were shallow pitched roofs with shingles. You might be doing a freebie or swapping work whatever, but I bet your buddy expects you to do it right.
> 
> Forget about the metal roofing at Home Cheapo, go to a roofing supply house & get some rainguard/channel drain or some other quality metal, won't cost much more than the cheapo stuff.


 

Did these roof have ice and water shield under them? I am planning on using 2 layers overlapped 50%.


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## Cjeff

If you are determined to go shingles. (EPDM would be my choice,) What I would do is use a layer of Ice water overlap 12 - 16" on the shingles increase the overlap by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. And tar every nail head and also where the shingles butt into each other down to whewre the tar will be covered by the shingle above.

That is my method for low slopes, at 2/12 with less overlap on the ice & water.


You can use metal and transition from shingles by putting a flashing under the shingles and over the metal with a double (or triple) row of foam closures caulked into place with a high quality caulking. Making sure not to cause a dip which will hold water with the flashing.


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## PA woodbutcher

I''' thrid or fourth the EPDM. I just did a 9x36 trailer addition with it. Ugly as sin (looks like a giant inner tube), but don't see how it can leak.


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## seeyou

Jeezy Pete. 

The cost of a double layer of underlayment, reducing the shingle exposure, and tarring the nail heads would be at least twice that of a membrane, take at least twice as long to install, and likely last half as long.

But you guys go ahead. I'll be sitting in a lawn chair in the shade after I finish my roof, drinking a fancy imported beer (I bought with my savings) watching you clowns smear tar on nail heads with a stick.

The only reason I could see to shingle with these methods is if I already had all the materials left over from other projects, had nothing else to do, needed the exercise, and was mildly retarded. 

Most roof supply houses will sell EPDM cut to size and the glue is available in 1 gal containers. Cold process modified (peel & stick) is also available in colors to match most popular shingles. Go to a roof store and ask what your local options are. 

To the OP: Why can't I add to romex by just using electrical tape? Seems like if I wrap enough tape around it, it ought to work fine.:whistling


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## tinner666

Quit playing around and get the EPDM, a can of glue and be done with it.:thumbup: Well, there is DE and cover tape to be added at perimeter.


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## jmiller

Self adhered modified bitumen (Flintlastic SA cap + SA or nailed base sheet) will be more electrician friendly than gluing EPDM IMO, and is granulated to match the shingles better. It too would probably be around the same price as double underlayment and shingles + less install time as noted above (it really is about as easy to install as 90lb rolled roofing).

http://www.certainteed.com/videolib...This=true&TB_iframe=true&height=700&width=975


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## seeyou

jmiller said:


> Self adhered modified bitumen (Flintlastic SA cap + SA or nailed base sheet) will be *more electrician friendly *than gluing EPDM IMO, and is granulated to match the shingles better. It too would probably be around the same price as double underlayment and shingles + less install time as noted above (it really is about as easy to install as 90lb rolled roofing).
> 
> http://www.certainteed.com/videolib...This=true&TB_iframe=true&height=700&width=975


Hell, all the electricians I know are fancier thinkers than I am.


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## jmiller

Yeah, the risk of fire does require more figurin' than that of wind and water.


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## PrestigeR&D

*ahhh......*

NO!:no: ~ your asking for problems. Have you looked into self stick (NON-TORCH) Modified bitumen. You can get that in several colors :
*Colors available: *
Black 
White 
Cool Gray 
Weathered Wood 
Desert Tan 

Nailed base sheet and then apply the MB - totally sealed roof system:thumbsup:

and you will not have to worry about the roof leaking,,, it will, eventually - if you shingle that- not recommended even by the shingle manufacturers.
Brian


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## Doubleoh7

I think I am going to go with 2 layers of Ice and water sheild overlapped 50%. followed by shingles w/reduced exposure. BUT, I'm not positve. This weekend I will investigate the other ideas presented to me. I was looking for a simple answer, but I might have to do some thinking now.

Thanks for all the info guys. It is much appreciated!


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## Cjeff

jmiller said:


> Self adhered modified bitumen (Flintlastic SA cap + SA or nailed base sheet) will be more electrician friendly than gluing EPDM IMO, and is granulated to match the shingles better. It too would probably be around the same price as double underlayment and shingles + less install time as noted above (it really is about as easy to install as 90lb rolled roofing).
> 
> http://www.certainteed.com/videolib...This=true&TB_iframe=true&height=700&width=975


This sounds good, will look into it the next low slope I do.

The only reason to go shingles on this low a slope is to match the roof above it. Kinda woman thinking here. "Doesn't matter if it is good as long as it matches":whistling

I just looked at the site in the link, definitely the way to go I think.


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