# Taping Tools



## La2venida (Apr 9, 2007)

:no: Hey, guys nice forum, been reading some of the stuff- pretty good, some i agree, others i don't, but that is the way it should be. 
Anyhow, i bought these apla-tech tools, and i wanted to get some current input on what you guys think. I am now just getting the hang the using them, but they sure gave me some good headaches. what do you think...


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## FleshnerDrywall (Dec 9, 2006)

*yep*

Most taping tools have somewhat of a learning curve, but once you get used to them they are time savers and money makers . I love mine would not trade them for the world.


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## muddjim (Apr 7, 2007)

:thumbsup: I'm about half finished my first job with the columbia line of taping tools , I've been reviewing the videos sold on e-bay , made by big kenny, that has helped . 
Some things eg: horizontal beads I am still doing by hand even though I bought a couple sets of "bead boxers".
Overall I figure even with the learning curve and clean up time I've increased my production by $$$ , (40 %). Tommorow I start Second coating everything.
Q. I find if I sand , between coats that the dust messes up the start of the new run, should I wipe down any sanded areas with a damp sponge first?
A.----------------------
Just keep going


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## FleshnerDrywall (Dec 9, 2006)

You can wipe with a damp sponge, but i dont and mine turns out great


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## Ted W (Jan 7, 2007)

You shouldn't have to sand between coats, just use a 10 or 12" knife to scrape off the high points. That's what I do.


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## Drywall1 (Dec 12, 2005)

Ted W said:


> You shouldn't have to sand between coats, just use a 10 or 12" knife to scrape off the high points. That's what I do.


For patchwork yes as above. But...

 I've been sanding between coats for years and when I'm coating an area, I know when one of my guys didn't brush off an area. For top quality work...sand. Lightly, not like a final sand mind you.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

I used to sand between coats but to be honest the level of quality did not diminish or go down when we stopped sanding after the block coat.

Now we *tape*,knock off high spots, *block*, scrap and knock the high spots, *skim* and than sand with a pole, than go behind with a 500w halogen and hand sand..results are flawless. 

I have found that our point up has actually decreased since we began this system.

but that is just MHO


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## taper71 (Dec 5, 2006)

Ted W said:


> You shouldn't have to sand between coats, just use a 10 or 12" knife to scrape off the high points. That's what I do.


 how do you get the high spots off the ceiling? I use a pole sander- lightly between coats. I tried the scraping, but found that if that high spot was a little too high then after skim coat I would sand right through it to my block and it does show when painted. Also the pole sander will find high spots where your eyes will miss them.


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## La2venida (Apr 9, 2007)

*apla-tech*

Have noticed that after taping, passing the 7", then 10"(skim), and priming, i could still seed gaps on my joints; had to come with a knife and fill gaps. The sheets were placed vertical, which i know this is a problem in placing sheets vertical, but there were areas where the sheet was horizontal, and i still saw the same problem. i concluded the i skim it too "skim". Thing is i did everything according to the instructions (from the Apla-tech support- 2:15-2:30, tensioner 3/4, etc. i don't know if it was my positioning when passing the coaters, but when i pass it, the skim seemed to look flawless. i don't know, i hope i don't have to be dealing with this problem for my next job. 

another issue, supposely the apla-tech people, use mesh on flats (paper on corner)- they say they pass some hot mud (very lightly)(green bag i suppose); this step to me seems iffee, i know that paper is the best, but i guess you can fill on the same day, which is good. Do you guys have better techniques, thanks


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## La2venida (Apr 9, 2007)

*sanding*

i agree, you can sand lightly, between (arbitrary), it will make for less work at the end. just as long as it does not take a long time., actually you can just power sand, which is best.


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## Mater (Feb 21, 2007)

With apla tech you can run thick or thin mud through the tools. It need not be "souped up" with the apla tech system. Try running thicker mud on your "bed" or "block" coat for lessing shrinkage. On my skim coat my AIM is just to fill in the "pock holes" left from the bed. Possibly too much water in your skim coat, which shrunk the mud. I always use my ten on all bed applications, and the twelve for skimming. :thumbsup:


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## La2venida (Apr 9, 2007)

*thanks*

That is what i was thinking. probably left the mud too thin. using the 7-10 combo, b/c trying to sand less (in theory); i know really does not make much difference.
what do you think about using mesh on flats (hotmud first, then fill ands skim). ,also how many hours will it take to do 350sheet home with these tools. don't have much experience with these tools(although getting the hang of adjusting and all that).
much appreaciated 
thanks


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## Tony M (May 9, 2007)

In the Uk we use mesh on flat joints with Fast Set (hot mud),followed by 2 coats of cement, and paper for internal corners. I have been using the Apla-tech pneumatic taping equipment for about 18 months and get a great finish, quickly. They paid for themselves in no time at all. I am shortly going over to the Continuous Flow system to cut out the repeated filling of the machines, and turn out even more finished product. It took a couple of months before I was convinced I had done the right thing by buying them, but would never go back to hand taping. In the UK, the plasterboard sheets are normally 8' x 4' which is 2.88 square metres (we use metric here), so 350 sheets is about a thousand square metres which would take me about 8-9 days, for which the going rate is around £3.00 or $6.00 per metre. Hope this helps.


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## JCardoza (Jun 21, 2007)

*So is the Apla-teck worth the 10 Grand?*

So the Apla-tech system runs from $4,000 to $10,000. Is the system worth the money?? Has anyone tried both the continuous flow and the air operated Cannon? Also is the Mechanical box or the "Flat Coater" system better? How often do you have to repare the airless pump? How about texturing with this system? How many of you have tried it?


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## Mater (Feb 21, 2007)

JCardoza said:


> So the Apla-tech system runs from $4,000 to $10,000. Is the system worth the money?? Has anyone tried both the continuous flow and the air operated Cannon? Also is the Mechanical box or the "Flat Coater" system better? How often do you have to repare the airless pump? How about texturing with this system? How many of you have tried it?


 
Heck Yea! Especially the CFS. Just today I was talking to a finisher finishing a 4 building small commercial strip mall, and with 2 guys wiping down, all 4 building could've been finished in 3-5 hours:w00t:. They will make you money very quickly! Do It:thumbup:


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## JCardoza (Jun 21, 2007)

I just bought Alpha tech 12" coater and 3' pole... I'm going to try to attach it to my American Spray Technologies 200 Gallon spray rig LOL This should be fun! The main idea is to use it to apply mud for some smooth plaster hand textures... We shall see!


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