# Urethane Grout Installation Tidbits



## angus242

This covers both grouts from StarQuartz: QuartzLock 2 & StarGlass and TruColor by Bostik. 

*Don't let the grout freeze!

*The buckets have a Vapor-Lock lid. Make sure it is well sealed to insure a 2 year shelf life.

*The day prior to installing, I like to turn the bucket upside down. This will allow the urethane liquid to rise to the bottom (think about it). When you turn the bucket right side up, the liquid will be on the bottom and be a bit easier to stir.

*I like to use a cordless drill and small 2" spiral paddle. Those type of paddles pull from the bottom up so you get a nice even distribution of the urethane liquid. Clean the paddle immediate when finished mixing. Even allowing it to soak in a bucket of water won't delay the grout curing. It will harden quickly and you'd have a lumpy paddle.

*For tile other then smooth glazed, I like to _lightly _dampen the tile prior to spreading grout. Do not over dampen! Too much moisture and a hard, sharp-edged epoxy float will pull excess water into the grout joint with the grout. That's _not _a good thing. 

*Use an epoxy grout float when using urethane grout. The exception is using StarGlass over easily scratched surfaces.

*_I cannot stress how important this part is_.....do not spread more than 4-6 sq ft at first. Until you get a feel for how quickly the grout will start hardening, just do a very little bit at a time. Urethane grout can be wiped up immediately. _I cannot stress this enough_.

_*I cannot stress enough the advice given above._

*For the initial wipe on floors, I use an epoxy sponge grout bucket set up. A regular grout sponge will work just fine. Do not over wet the sponge. Do not press too hard and dig the grout out of the joints. Clean up is very simple. Urethane grout doesn't seem to dirty a sponge as quickly as cementitious grout does (IMO). Make sure to do a very good cleaning. Installing in small sections helps. Do not leave the grout unwashed for more than 5 minutes. Use the epoxy float to help remove excess grout. 

*Repeat the install/clean in small sections. After initial wipe of second section, use a lightly damp microfiber cloth to do a final wipe on the previous section. Keep the cloth barely damp. This will help remove any leftover haze before it has a chance of really drying. Be careful to not dig out grout with the cloth.

*You have about 15 minutes to easily remove the haze before it becomes very troublesome. 

*Using 5 gallon buckets, you can use 2 with clean water to wash about 250-300 sq ft of grout. I also like to have another bucket of water available for cleaning hands and tools. Doesn't have to be a full 5 gal. I like to clean my float after about every 15 minutes. Epoxy floats are expensive. Allowing the urethane to dry on them can ruin one in about 30 minutes. 

*Address any haze issues as quickly as possible. I have had very good results with the microfiber cloth to buff haze. If too much time has passed for the microfiber to clean easily, a 2-sided sponge (the side with the scrubbing pad) might be more effective. 

*You can pause as often as you like when installing. Just make sure to clean your tools before pausing and that the lid is properly sealed on the grout. You will feel a snap when the lid is secured. 

*You can stir the grout as often as you'd like. The more consistent the urethane liquid is throughout, the easier the grout will spread. If too much urethane has risen to the top, when you get to the bottom of the bucket, the grout will be much harder to spread and almost ball up when spreading.

*StarQuartz's Blaze cleaning product is recommended for haze removal. If that's not available, these are the other products and methods recommended: Aqua Mix Heavy-Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner, Miracle Tile & Stone Cleaner, or DuPont StoneTech Professional KlenzAll Cleaner on a white scrubby Doodlebug cleaning pad, rubbing the tile lightly to remove any remaining urethane haze, then using a damp sponge and clean water, wipe the surface to remove the film remover (do not flood surface with cleaner). Finish by drying the tile surface with a clean towel or cloth. If you still can't remove the haze, you're a moron and didn't listen to my advice in the first place :tt2:

*Cure times:
Tack-free: 8 hours
Light foot traffic: 24 hours
Heavy foot traffic (commercial): 72 hours
Stain free: 3 days
Showers, exterior or other wet locations: 7 days

*Do not use enzyme or no-rinse cleaners on urethane grout. Just as with epoxy grout, enzyme or no-rinse cleaners can attack the integrity of the grout. StarQuartz recommends Soft Scrub with Bleach or any orange-based cleaner.

That's about it. I have used QuartzLock (and StarGlass) exclusively for 3 years and have not had a problem. I took my time at first but now it's second nature to me and grouting is usually the fastest part of the project.


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## Bastien1337

Awesome possum!


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## opiethetileman

sweet info dude:thumbsup::thumbsup: but i will never leave team blue:laughing: even if ya help me grout


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## angus242

opiethetileman said:


> sweet info dude:thumbsup::thumbsup: but i will never leave team blue:laughing: even if ya help me grout


More urethane installs for meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :thumbup:


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## Tech Dawg

Id like to add something when turning the bucket upside down... make sure the grout plops to the lid, if not the urethane will collect on the lid and not rise to the bottom, lol


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## Paulie

Thank you Angus. :thumbsup:


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## Aaron Tritt

Thanks for the tips Angus! I just tried the urethane grout instead of the laticrete brand epoxy.

With your tips, in addition the instructions on the jug, I had a smooth and easy installation.

The only downsides to the urethane seem to be cost and availability in my area. 

I will probably make the switch to urethane though.


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## HandyHails

I used this on a wall the other day w/ 1/8th inch joints. I scrubbed the wall down first. After application I wiped down and the water from the mosaics above all found its way to the joints below the mosaic. The urethane grout started to sag. I had to scrape it out and reapply. Just a heads up to really watch the amount of water being used for clean up especially in this situation. Maybe start at the top and work your way down. 

That's what I will do next time.


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## Aaron Tritt

I also found it useful to mask off the floor, so I didn't need to be as worried about dropped grout. For sure, top first and work your way down. This stuff is a little loose, and is easy to drop off the float.


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## angus242

You definitely need to be careful with the amount of water that's used. 

Like I said previously, it is suggested to dampen the surface before installing. I rarely do that.


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## JohnFRWhipple

Angus is possible to split up a large kitchen Grout job into "Lifts" or "Sections" of grouting?

Have you ever done say one half of a shower one day and the other the next?

JW


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## angus242

JohnFRWhipple said:


> Angus is possible to split up a large kitchen Grout job into "Lifts" or "Sections" of grouting?
> 
> Have you ever done say one half of a shower one day and the other the next?
> 
> JW


Yep, no problem. Just make sure the lid is properly snapped on and clean all of your tools. Because the color is premixed, the match is perfect.


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## HandyHails

Sooooo is Bostik's version of this the same formulation? Is it just rebranded? Have you ever used TruColor?

I just realized my supplier is carrying TruColor now. I was looking through todays mail and they have a notification stating they will have ALL colors in stock. I will try this on the next bathroom remodel for sure.


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## angus242

HandyHails said:


> Sooooo is Bostik's version of this the same formulation? Is it just rebranded? Have you ever used TruColor?
> 
> I just realized my supplier is carrying TruColor now. I was looking through todays mail and they have a notification stating they will have ALL colors in stock. I will try this on the next bathroom remodel for sure.


TruColor is exact same thing. Actually, Bostik owns StarQuartz. Although, QuartzLock was developed by StarQuartz, Bostik just bought the company. Even the grout code numbers are the same (names I believe are different).


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## Tech Dawg

Does bostik have their own version of the star-glass?


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## angus242

Tech Dawg said:


> Does bostik have their own version of the star-glass?


They do not. When it was first released, it was only sold at Daltile. That is no longer the case but you can only get StarGlass from StarQuartz dealers.


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## HandyHails

Asked my supplier today about TruColor. Exactly the same price and they have all colors in stock all the time. Pretty sweet. Color selection is not as broad though.


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## orson

angus242 said:


> This covers both grouts from StarQuartz: QuartzLock 2 & StarGlass and TruColor by Bostik.
> 
> 
> 
> *I like to use a cordless drill and small 2" spiral paddle. Those type of paddles pull from the bottom up so you get a nice even distribution of the urethane liquid. Clean the paddle immediate when finished mixing. Even allowing it to soak in a bucket of water won't delay the grout curing. It will harden quickly and you'd have a lumpy paddle.


Is there still a warning on the label about over-mixing or is that a thing of the past?

I always hand mix it in fear of over-mixing but I can't honestly say I've re-read the label since a few years ago.


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## angus242

The over mixing concern is the same. The problem is those who use an improper paddle and introduce air into the grout.

I use a spiral paddle that pulls up from the bottom. No worries about inducing air that way.


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## HandyHails

angus242 said:


> The over mixing concern is the same. The problem is those who use an improper paddle and introduce air into the grout.
> 
> I use a spiral paddle that pulls up from the bottom. No worries about inducing air that way.



Pics or link please.


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## angus242

Good:









Bad:


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## Dan V.

What is the advantage of urethane over epoxy? I've used Lat's Spectra Lock Pro with outstanding results.


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## angus242

Epoxy is catalyst-cured where as urethane is air-cured. Because of this, ANSI 118.3 standards are not all comparable with urethane. However, urethane passes or exceeds all 118.3 standards applicable. To me, that puts QuartzLock and SpectraLOCK in the same category. 
Linear shrinkage = .06%
Water absorption = <1%

Since the 118.3 compression test is not applicable for urethane, the TCNA performed their own test between the two. SpectraLOCK is rated at 3500 psi while QuartzLock achieved 4000 psi. 

From how I understand the properties of epoxy, when it cures it becomes very hard, almost brittle. Urethane is different. It has semi-elastic properties which will not allow it to shatter, unlike cementitious or epoxy grout. 

While both are highly stain resistant, in a head to head test (TCNA), urethane was actually more stain resistant with certain products. Equal elsewhere.

So, I believe the advantages of urethane are:
-no allergic reactions possible
-even more stain resistant
-better compression strength
-more color consistency (no mixing so no user error possible)
-easier to apply (just my personal opinion after using both grouts)
-cheaper
-easier clean up (just 1 cleaning pass water w/orange cleaner 5gal/1oz ratio)
-much greater workable time (4 hours). You can stop, close the lid and return within up to three years later with the same bucket of grout. This leads to less waste which technically helps with the cheaper cost too. 

disadvantages:
-availability
-long term durability
-air-cured needs 7 days dry time before introducing water (wet locations). 

This is not the case with a dry location installation. 
Tack free = 8 hours
Light foot traffic = 24 hours
Heavy foot traffic = 48 hours
Stain resistant = 3 days

review of grout:
Cementitious pros:
cheap
availability
easy sell
no special tools necessary
Cementitious cons:
old technology
stain-able
susceptible to cracking
can be over-washed easily
needs regular sealing 
hard to clean once stained
efflorescent-prone
not color consistent

Epoxy pros:
stain resistant
no sealing necessary
multiple manufacturers produce
availability commonplace
color consistent
very low permeability
Epoxy cons:
cost
possible tricky installation
special float necessary
haze hard to remove
contains BPAs
can cause allergic reactions
brittle
can have lots of waste
susceptible to UV yellowing

Urethane pros:
stain resistant
no sealing necessary
color consistent
very low permeability
easy installation/easy clean up
no user mixing errors
long shelf life
remains pliable
Urethane cons:
cost
special float necessary
availability
cure time in wet locations
installation not typical and can be messed up if directions aren't followed properly*


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## Dan V.

Excellent post, Angus! Thank you. In addition the higher compression strength, the issue with leftover is key. I can't tell you how many times I've had to mix up another batch of epoxy grout just to finish up a small area and then chuck the rest. Very expensive. It would be nice if Laticrete would supply the A&B in recloseable plastic containers instead of the baggies they use now.

I'll have to give it a try on my next tile job.


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## GO Remodeling

i'd like to use ureathane more except for one thing, there is no cleaner if you mess up. At least with epoxy you have a chance to correct a problem. That's the biggest downside IMO.

Also, I'm not sure if it is easy to use for a shower ceiling. It might sag out of the joint in that application. Maybe someone that's used it for a ceiling will talk about that application.


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## angus242

Yes there are, Gary.

Blaze and StoneTech KlenzAll are 2 cleaners to help dried haze. Honestly, the best thing is to not let it haze. I have not see any haze situation that couldn't be solved by getting to it within a few hours.

Grouting above head is tricky but can be done. It's not worth trying to describe how to do it. You figure it out quickly or eat a lot of urethane. :laughing:


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## Tinstaafl

angus242 said:


> You figure it out quickly or eat a lot of urethane. :laughing:


Oh, so _that's_ why you're bald! :laughing:


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## angus242

Tinstaafl said:


> Oh, so _that's_ why you're bald! :laughing:


Yep. Much easier to clean my head than say if Leo got grout in that nest. :laughing:


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## Remodelor

This is for people like me that don't wipe enough with their sponge the first time around:

One thing I've learned to do, if I've missed a spot cleaning when wiping everything down, is to use a sanding sponge to knock loose any light grout stuck to the surface of the towel. Then I use the blaze cleaner to remove the haze. If it's a really big miss, like a 1/32" layer of grout smeared, I use a 4" razor scraper, followed by the sponge, followed by blaze.

Sometimes I find it easier just to commit to the extra cleaning rather than trying to get it perfect the first time around. Trying to get every bit of sand and urethane out of your sponge the first time around can be a pain.


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## angus242

I don't understand why so many people seem to have issues with cleaning. In almost 4 years, I have not had a problem.

Do a very good first cleaning with whatever sponge. 
Do a second pass with a micro fiber rag that's barely wet (well wrung out).
I do a final pass with a dry micro fiber cloth.

Works every time. It's so easy, even an electrician can do it :laughing:


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## JohnFRWhipple

*Why to use Urethane Grout.*



angus242 said:


> ...It's so easy, even an electrician can do it :laughing:


That's just mean. You should have said - It's so easy even John can do it.

I have always hated and feared grouting because of the things that can go wrong with this step. Minerals in water. Poor Dry Mix. Over watering at clean up. Different dye loads. Too much moisture in storage. Expired portland. And on and on.

If having to be a hair more careful in the cleaning process worries someone they have not installed enough regular grout to understand the benefits of this Urethane Grout and all that can go wrong with a standard grout install.

Angus you mentioned once that the grouting process better suits you and I feel the same. I like to work slowly and methodically. I like that I can take my time and not feel the pressure of a looming "Kick Time".

I have only used it twice - both times in my own kitchen and can honestly say that I do not fear the grouting process any longer.

JW


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## angus242

JohnFRWhipple said:


> That's just mean. You should have said - It's so easy even John can do it.


It was an inside joke referring to the day Ron helped me grout.


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## astor

angus242 said:


> special float necessary


Do you have a picture or a link for this special float? My local DalTile does not have it and have no idea what it is.

UPDATE: Ok. it is epoxy grout float, sorry I have missed that.


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## Tech Dawg

QuartzLock242 :whistling: get it...? :laughing:


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## Tech Dawg

Astor,
In the picture, the red float I got from dal tile (Superior Tools) and that works good with QL2 and the Orange one is the Superior Platinum float that I ordered from Rich @ Mid West Trade Tool... I just used that one today and I thought it was pretty good. Cut the grout cleaner but it is a bit heavier


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## ohiohomedoctor

Great advice here Angus. Wish I read this before my first one. Could of saved me a redo. Urethane is the only thing we use now. Membrane this, Urethane that, makes for easy sales.


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## angus242

ohiohomedoctor said:


> makes for easy sales.


And labor!


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## ohiohomedoctor

angus242 said:


> And labor!




And no call backs for cracking corners or fading grout color. Don't miss that at all. To think how much I loved tec cementous grout. Whatever replaces Urethane is going to be some amazing stuff.


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## angus242

Plasma grout. I'll start working on it.....


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## Tech Dawg

If StarQuartz named a color after Angus, I would stock it and push it for every job...


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## angus242

robert c1 said:


> OK to cover with masonite while curing?


No.

Craft paper (or anything that can breathe) only. Actually, as long as there's no chance of someone gouging the grout, it would be OK to walk on is 12 hours. I typically walk on tiles after 2 hours without issue. 

Something like pets with claws after 12 hours is still a no no.


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## dsconstructs

Thanks for the tips Angus, my first QL2 installation is done.

The first few sq ft were a little scary, I was actually ringing the sponge out too much....I quickly adjusted myself for that and the rest went without a hitch. There was about 50 sq ft mosaic backsplash over corian countertop and I'm now a huge fan of QL2 :thumbup:


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## robert c1

Thanks for the tips, a bit of real world experience goes a long ways.

Good product, nice not to have to mix it, went on easily, looks good. Happy customer.


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## sbcontracting

I just came across this thread. I recently did my first shower pan with epoxy grout. I was pretty much sold on that vs. cement grout - the finish is so nice compared w/ cement!  

I'm going to give this a shot on my own bathroom or try and upsell on one of the four bathrooms I have lined up this / next month


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## wannaBelkhuntin

Come on Angus how about some tips for a ceiling install. I have one coming soon and am thinking I may go with standard grout. I know I can't use Epoxy and I am hoping to use Urethane. Would it be horrible to use a regular grout for the ceiling and Urethane for the rest ? :blink:


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## angus242

Wear one of these:









If you can color match, I don't suppose it would be too big of an issue to use portland on the ceiling.

I cannot give ya any real tips. The more you use it, the better you get at learning how to keep it from falling on you. There's a huge difference from my first wall install until now. 

Urethane has pretty good non-sag properties so it won't come tumbling out of the joints. It's the float overage you have to look out for.


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## Tech Dawg

I found a small section of hardened grout on a tile behind the toilet (ql2)
I dampened it with some isopropal alcohol on a rag and let it sit for 30 seconds or so...lightly scraped it with a utility knife blade and it came up like butter not leaving a mark on the tile.
I don't think this would work on all kinds of tile but it was just a little "tidbit" that I figured out today... use caution.


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## mbobbish734

angus you changed your avatar again. well i outaa stick your face in some dough and make some gorilla cookies.:whistling:jester::clap: its been awhile since i been on the pc.


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## Tech Dawg

I vote for the Keith Stone avatar :laughing:


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## ohiohomedoctor

I liked jesus. And for the record I still do.


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## cleveman

I tried it today and it went fine. An acquaintance at the tile store gave me an 18# bucket. What does the stuff cost?

It is surely an advantage to be able to close the bucket and use it again.

And it is easier to mix if you don't have to measure.

I am waiting to see how the cured product looks and feels.

I started on an 8 square foot island, then cut up the rest of the counter into 8 square foot pieces. It was about 32 square feet, so the math was easy.


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## angus242

cleveman said:


> What does the stuff cost?


depends on your supplier. Seems to be all over the place based on location. 9lbs is as low as $55 but can be much higher. 18lbs is a bit cheaper per lb; close to $100. 

I think I'm at $63 & $106.


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## astor

18 for $97 here.


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## cleveman

I appreciate the way they give you the coverage for 9 & 18 lbs. batches.  

:jester:


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## angus242

Grout calculator, right side: http://www.starquartz.com/grout.html


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## sbcontracting

Did my first batch a few days ago... nice and easy! I was expecting cleanup and film wipe to be real bad... but it wasnt that bad at all...

My only problem was the consistency of the stuff... not as sticky as the regular or epoxy to the float... so I dropped a lot. 

It's been three days, but HO needs to have a shower prolly on Sunday... I'll tell him to use the bath only for a couple more days 

Thanks angus for all the great tips... made it go way smooth.


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## HandyHails

Hey so I was talking to my supplier the other day. I use TruColor exclusively now. He is telling me "Watch using this on shower floors. We've had some issues and call backs and the manufacturer is even saying its not meant for shower floors." Really? WTF? I' haven't seen anything to even hint at something like this. I haven't bothered to call Bostik yet, but I gotta believe this is BS. I've been back to showers that I've urethaned the floor six months later and the shower still looks like I just put it in.

Anyone hear anything like this?


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## angus242

Josh, over 3 years ago QuartzLock's original formula needed an additive for shower applications. That was about a 50/50% chance whether (even with the additive) it would fail.

QuartzLock 2 or TruColor do not have the same issue as long as you follow the 7 day cure rule.


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## Tech Dawg

I would assume problems occur when home owners don't wait the recomended time to use the shower...


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## HandyHails

That's what I figure. I've got to think he was blowing smoke. Not to say they didn't have problems, but that Bostik is saying not to use it on a shower floor. Any product can fail if installed improperly.


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## dsconstructs

One of the suppliers here quit carrying this also. They said too many callbacks in showers but couldn't give details about cure time or much of anything else informative. Instead they carry and push Kerapoxy. 
That's alright, Daltile has the QL2 :thumbsup:


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## Aaron Tritt

One more tip that is useful...

When you finish a project and want to keep the excess for patch work, or another job in the future, place a piece of celephane on top of the grout at the bottom of the bucket.

I found that when there is a lot of air in the tub the top layer of grout will cure and get crunchy.

Also, don't try to mix it back in...


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## HandyHails

Thought you might find this useful. Found this at the depot today when I stopped in for some Kerdi Band. I'll try it out tomorrow w/ some TruColor.

microfiber sponge


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## fcfc

*covering fresh grout*

I noticed someone had mentioned covering urethane with masonite, during the curing process. If your restrict the ability of it to cure off properly with plywood or anything else that restricts air getting to it, it will in my experience totally f it up. Was trying to complete ~1000ft of grouting in one go and moved appliances over to grout that had been sitting for over 4 hours at that point with plywood bases, had to completely cut out and redo all joints within the area covered by the plywood after that point. 

Its a fine product when you get it down on how to install it, but the lessons I was forced to pay for with an employees inability to follow instructions still haunt me to this day. (over 100 man hours in rework to scrape every square inch of 1500 ft of super hazed tile along with the 3 gallons of Blaze to take the damn haze off). I love the stuff tho, 90% of my grout sales are Tru-color since it is such an easy upsell.


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## mike gunderson

*urethane grout tidbits*

I really like the urethane grouts. I've used quartzloc and tru color. The same i guess. I've been using epoxy, mostly laticrete for several years , but the urethane is way easier to clean. Have had no call backs.


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## JohnFRWhipple

One of my clients from De Pere, Wisconsin tried some painters tape on either side of his grout joints.

He is using Quartz Lock grout and said it worked like a charm. He is finishing up the grouting in the shower today and I mentioned to him to leave it cure out a week before use.

Nice work Mike!


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## Ceramictec

why? seems like a big waste if time and materials.
the QuartzLock grout wont stain the tile.
must be a DIY'er over doing it.


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## Tech Dawg

:blink:
That looks like $30 bux worth of frog tape...


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## JohnFRWhipple

Your right on the DIYer. This homeowner is doing all the work himself and is building a wonderful en-suite for him and the Mrs.

Wait till you see this shower finished. Mike and I have been back and forth over the past few months while he picks away at his en-suite. I like this step. If your not working with these products everyday and not paying someone to apply them every little step that makes life easier is not a bad step in my books.


The shower before the wall tile went in. Noble Seal TS on the walls and floor. And he flood tested this puppy for 48 hours and passed. Know if a homeowner can flood out these showers and pass - you pros should do the same. Mike even used fender washers and a control bucket to measure evaporation! I wonder who gave him that idea?

JW


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## WarnerConstInc.

Painters tape on the tile.:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Tech Dawg

I'm just wondering... Would the results be any different with any other grout? Imo, kitchen counters collect more germs, dirt than showers. At least in a shower, the water continuously washes dirt/soap etc... towards the drain


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## The Coastal Craftsman

Used the QL2 today on a floor. This stuff is nice and not having to mix up buckets of grout is sweat. Def using this stuff from now on I think it's gonna be cheaper for me to use this over standard cement grout. Cheers for the tips angus. They sure did help.


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## BlueRidgeGreen

BCConstruction said:


> Used the QL2 today on a floor. This stuff is nice and not having to mix up buckets of grout is sweat. Def using this stuff from now on I think it's gonna be cheaper for me to use this over standard cement grout. Cheers for the tips angus. They sure did help.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 82155


 I'm dying to try urethane. Makes it a he!! of a lot easier to make the jump after reading the detailed tips Angus laid out. 

My only issue is getting my hands on it. I might have to go with an internet purchase. You're only an hour or so south of me.....Morris only deals in Laticrete.....where did you get yours?

Still have to ask myself if a 3-4 hour acquisition time is better than net shopping. Then there's the gas....but at least I could pick up some decent Korean food while in the big city.


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## angus242

Here's the latest on Quartzlock:

The old company, StarQuartz is gone. Bostik has been the parent company (owned them) for quite some time. The Bostik version of urethane, Tru-Color is the same as QuartzLock 2. 

If you're looking for urethane availability, check your local Bostik dealer. Daltile will continue to carry urethane under the QuartzLock name. 

So, you can get urethane from either a Bostik dealer or Daltile supplier.

StarGlass (urethane for glass/metal) is no longer sold. It is now solely Bostik Dimension. It can be found at both Bostik dealers _and_ Daltile. 

I'll have a number to call posted here soon to find local dealers.

Hope this helps clear some of the confusion.


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## grizl

love this thread. Thanks!


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## LyonsPrideTile

Just installed 320 feet Blue Celeste marble (some polished some tumbled) after install client decided on StarGlass Diamond grout. Marble was NOT pre sealed. I am concerned about "picture framing" since I can't guarantee getting sealer into 3/32" joints. Any suggestions?


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## Hank B.

whip up a sample board.


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## charimon

LyonsPrideTile said:


> I am concerned about "picture framing" since I can't guarantee getting sealer into 3/32" joints. Any suggestions?


I think i might be concerned about your mortar dobs telegraphing on that last row:whistling:whistling


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## aptpupil

charimon said:


> I think i might be concerned about your mortar dobs telegraphing on that last row:whistling:whistling


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## Inner10

charimon said:


> I think i might be concerned about your mortar dobs telegraphing on that last row:whistling:whistling


Yikes, guess he's a 5 blobber. :laughing:


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## Inner10

charimon said:


> I think i might be concerned about your mortar dobs telegraphing on that last row:whistling:whistling


On closer inspection there are even more dice on that wall.


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## jbdivinedesign

angus242 said:


> This covers both grouts from StarQuartz: QuartzLock 2 & StarGlass and TruColor by Bostik.
> 
> *Don't let the grout freeze!
> 
> *The buckets have a Vapor-Lock lid. Make sure it is well sealed to insure a 2 year shelf life.
> 
> *The day prior to installing, I like to turn the bucket upside down. This will allow the urethane liquid to rise to the bottom (think about it). When you turn the bucket right side up, the liquid will be on the bottom and be a bit easier to stir.
> 
> *I like to use a cordless drill and small 2" spiral paddle. Those type of paddles pull from the bottom up so you get a nice even distribution of the urethane liquid. Clean the paddle immediate when finished mixing. Even allowing it to soak in a bucket of water won't delay the grout curing. It will harden quickly and you'd have a lumpy paddle.
> 
> *For tile other then smooth glazed, I like to _lightly _dampen the tile prior to spreading grout. Do not over dampen! Too much moisture and a hard, sharp-edged epoxy float will pull excess water into the grout joint with the grout. That's _not _a good thing.
> 
> *Use an epoxy grout float when using urethane grout. The exception is using StarGlass over easily scratched surfaces.
> 
> *_I cannot stress how important this part is_.....do not spread more than 4-6 sq ft at first. Until you get a feel for how quickly the grout will start hardening, just do a very little bit at a time. Urethane grout can be wiped up immediately. _I cannot stress this enough_.
> 
> _*I cannot stress enough the advice given above._
> 
> *For the initial wipe on floors, I use an epoxy sponge grout bucket set up. A regular grout sponge will work just fine. Do not over wet the sponge. Do not press too hard and dig the grout out of the joints. Clean up is very simple. Urethane grout doesn't seem to dirty a sponge as quickly as cementitious grout does (IMO). Make sure to do a very good cleaning. Installing in small sections helps. Do not leave the grout unwashed for more than 5 minutes. Use the epoxy float to help remove excess grout.
> 
> *Repeat the install/clean in small sections. After initial wipe of second section, use a lightly damp microfiber cloth to do a final wipe on the previous section. Keep the cloth barely damp. This will help remove any leftover haze before it has a chance of really drying. Be careful to not dig out grout with the cloth.
> 
> *You have about 15 minutes to easily remove the haze before it becomes very troublesome.
> 
> *Using 5 gallon buckets, you can use 2 with clean water to wash about 250-300 sq ft of grout. I also like to have another bucket of water available for cleaning hands and tools. Doesn't have to be a full 5 gal. I like to clean my float after about every 15 minutes. Epoxy floats are expensive. Allowing the urethane to dry on them can ruin one in about 30 minutes.
> 
> *Address any haze issues as quickly as possible. I have had very good results with the microfiber cloth to buff haze. If too much time has passed for the microfiber to clean easily, a 2-sided sponge (the side with the scrubbing pad) might be more effective.
> 
> *You can pause as often as you like when installing. Just make sure to clean your tools before pausing and that the lid is properly sealed on the grout. You will feel a snap when the lid is secured.
> 
> *You can stir the grout as often as you'd like. The more consistent the urethane liquid is throughout, the easier the grout will spread. If too much urethane has risen to the top, when you get to the bottom of the bucket, the grout will be much harder to spread and almost ball up when spreading.
> 
> *StarQuartz's Blaze cleaning product is recommended for haze removal. If that's not available, these are the other products and methods recommended: Aqua Mix Heavy-Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner, Miracle Tile & Stone Cleaner, or DuPont StoneTech Professional KlenzAll Cleaner on a white scrubby Doodlebug cleaning pad, rubbing the tile lightly to remove any remaining urethane haze, then using a damp sponge and clean water, wipe the surface to remove the film remover (do not flood surface with cleaner). Finish by drying the tile surface with a clean towel or cloth. If you still can't remove the haze, you're a moron and didn't listen to my advice in the first place :tt2:
> 
> *Cure times:
> Tack-free: 8 hours
> Light foot traffic: 24 hours
> Heavy foot traffic (commercial): 72 hours
> Stain free: 3 days
> Showers, exterior or other wet locations: 7 days
> 
> *Do not use enzyme or no-rinse cleaners on urethane grout. Just as with epoxy grout, enzyme or no-rinse cleaners can attack the integrity of the grout. StarQuartz recommends Soft Scrub with Bleach or any orange-based cleaner.
> 
> That's about it. I have used QuartzLock (and StarGlass) exclusively for 3 years and have not had a problem. I took my time at first but now it's second nature to me and grouting is usually the fastest part


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## jbdivinedesign

Also I was taught never grout on a changed of plane, always caulk at corners so with a urethane grout is that unnecessary and the urethane is flexible with changes in temperatures? That would be freaking awesome as I am tiling 3 bathrooms and a kitchen backsplash on my sister and brothers-in-laws new home soon and then remodeling 2 of my own bathrooms and my kitchen backsplash. I haven’t tiled anything in the last few years as I have been mostly Consulting during the last few years. I will be 65 in Oct and trying not to do so much physical work like I have always done. You have to get smarter as you get older and the body says no.....that was pain free advice right there...


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## jbdivinedesign

Scratch that....I just thought of all the small tiling jobs I have done in the last 7 years LOL 😝 and they say the memory is the first to go.....


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