# drywall corners



## phnola (Aug 15, 2010)

hey guys 
i am a carpenter for a nonprofit organization in new orleans and on a house i am working on we have to finish the drywall ourselves since the HO doesnt have enough money to sub-out the finishing, which we usually prefer since its way faster and results in a better final product. i have done some mudding on rooms and such but nothing on this scale and thus am looking for a couple pointers, specifically as it comes to corners. 
what are yalls methods for finishing inside corners? do you use the corner tools to finish or just for the tape coat? would greatly appreciate any input. thanks 

Phil


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Search feature...


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

You're supposed to finish inside corners? :blink: :sad:


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## dadkins0005 (Dec 6, 2008)

Yes you tape inside corners. For novice....after you tape the corner...you can run one side, let dry run the other side.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Hey Phil, when you do a job for cheap like that you drag the whole industry down. I know you are probably just trying to be helpful but in helping the one you are hurting the many. And the added irony to the whole thing is, the ones you're hurting are the ones you seek to advise you one how best to hurt them.


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## thomasjmarino (May 1, 2011)

WildWill said:


> Hey Phil, when you do a job for cheap like that you drag the whole industry down. I know you are probably just trying to be helpful but in helping the one you are hurting the many. And the added irony to the whole thing is, the ones you're hurting are the ones you seek to advise you one how best to hurt them.


Donnie Downer over here...


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## phnola (Aug 15, 2010)

Wildwill, 

If the client we are going to do this finishing for is the type of client you are trying to land, then you are dragging yourself down. We sub out the drywall finishing whenever they have enough money to. I was seeking advice from a respected forum on how best to serve the client; I have no interest whatsoever in getting into the drywall finishing business, believe me; it's something best left to professionals. Perhaps you should think before you lash out automatically at novices who ask for advice.


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## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

I tape the inside corners, then mud them with 45 min. joint compound. I use a corner tool to shape the corner (1st coat), then smooth the edges with a 6" taping knife. 2nd and 3rd coats I use a 6-8" taping knife. If you do it well, very little sanding is required. Put the mud on thin.

However, if you use an inside corner tool, remember to push a bit, so the corner is nice and square.

Someone else suggested doing one side, and then the other side after 1st side dries. This is a good method, but a bit more time consuming.

There are a million ways to skin a cat. 

My $0.02

Peace.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

Beanfacekilla said:


> There are a million ways to skin a cat.


Would you mind listing those million ways to skin a cat? I checked my list and I must be missing 4 of them. I'd like to make sure my list is complete.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

999996- use mesh tape
999997- use 5 min mud
999998- use pre-bent metal corners
999999- use corner tool
1000000- hire a professional


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

phnola said:


> Wildwill,
> 
> If the client we are going to do this finishing for is the type of client you are trying to land, then you are dragging yourself down. We sub out the drywall finishing whenever they have enough money to. I was seeking advice from a respected forum on how best to serve the client; I have no interest whatsoever in getting into the drywall finishing business, believe me; it's something best left to professionals. Perhaps you should think before you lash out automatically at novices who ask for advice.


IMHO I think wild man was right on.

A drywall professional could knock it right out, as it stands your asking the most basic, of basic question here.

Do you really think your going to be proficient speed wise at getting it done?
Non profit, does that mean your working for free :whistling

Please explain,

Because if it takes you twice as long, even at a lower rate, isn't it really going to cost just as much.
Not to mention, look bad, probably crack, yada yada

Sorry but if you don't know how to finish an inside corner, you should NOT pick up a mud knive or trowel. :no:

Amateur drywall never, ever looks good. 

I hope the economic savings are worth the poor appearance.



If I were you, I would search youtube and at least gain a little visual on the subject.

-


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

phnola said:


> Wildwill,
> 
> If the client we are going to do this finishing for is the type of client you are trying to land, then you are dragging yourself down. We sub out the drywall finishing whenever they have enough money to. I was seeking advice from a respected forum on how best to serve the client; I have no interest whatsoever in getting into the drywall finishing business, believe me; it's something best left to professionals. Perhaps you should think before you lash out automatically at novices who ask for advice.


This is a professional forum meant for professionals, I don't think they have a forums for hacks... Maybe you were looking for www.helpahack.com?


There, now I've "lashed out" at ya.....hack!


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## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

This thread has derailed.:2guns::gun_bandana::gunsmilie::shuriken::boat::hammer::boxing::boxing:


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## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

thom said:


> Would you mind listing those million ways to skin a cat? I checked my list and I must be missing 4 of them. I'd like to make sure my list is complete.


I am going to have to get back with you. I'll get with my people, and get you some results. :thumbsup:


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## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

WildWill said:


> This is a professional forum meant for professionals, I don't think they have a forums for hacks... Maybe you were looking for www.helpahack.com?
> 
> 
> There, now I've "lashed out" at ya.....hack!


I tried to go to that website. That's not a real site. I am disappointed.


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## phnola (Aug 15, 2010)

yes we work for free, homeowner pays for materials only. funding comes from donations and grants. 

guess i picked the wrong forum


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## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

I commend you for volunteering your time to help others. You just need some thick skin on this forum. Don't sweat it. 

However, drywall is an art. Someone else suggested youtube. Try looking on there. :thumbsup:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

phnola said:


> yes we work for free, homeowner pays for materials only. funding comes from donations and grants.
> 
> guess i picked the wrong forum


you found the right place,keep posting we can help...well not me but others can:thumbsup:


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

phnola said:


> yes we work for free, homeowner pays for materials only. funding comes from donations and grants.
> 
> guess i picked the wrong forum



I wasn't trying to sound rude, and I appreciate the fact that you explained the pay situation.

But I was honestly just stating the facts, thats how drywall is.

Its an art, it truley is, and if you've never done it, and you don't have any technique (technical) experience with it, the results aren't going to be satifactory.



Heres the answer, an example, and some instructions, enjoy,


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## TLK2 (Jun 10, 2008)

that guy on that video sucks!!! you see that screw head not set in the sheetrock, creating that speed bump in the mud. I never leave screw heads out. those are one of my peppeaves. before i start (taping mesh or paper) i always button up my hanging. ( which really isnt much ) And i can see that thick edge a mile away. another "spackle" job needing 100 grit hard sanding. my edges you can literally brush em down with you finger tip. i use 250 grit to just knock down any lap and feather marks and to just kill the edge. very minimal sanding. 17yrs. drywall specialist.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

I do tons of volunteer work too!  Even made it in the paper a few times this year.

I was working the level that day due to my back being thrown out.

http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/a...geles-8217-public-victory-garden-taking-shape


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

phnola said:


> hey guys
> i am a carpenter for a nonprofit organization in new orleans and on a house i am working on we have to finish the drywall ourselves since the HO doesnt have enough money to sub-out the finishing, which we usually prefer since its way faster and results in a better final product. i have done some mudding on rooms and such but nothing on this scale and thus am looking for a couple pointers, specifically as it comes to corners.
> what are yalls methods for finishing inside corners? do you use the corner tools to finish or just for the tape coat? would greatly appreciate any input. thanks
> 
> Phil


Think you may have ruffled some feathers by the ''way faster'' and ''better final product'' comment.

Other than that....... Thanks for helping people in need. I do the same once in a while.

.


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## Miss Brown (Mar 30, 2011)

Phil. If you message me tonight, I can come by in the am and give you a primer. I live close by, and used to work (free) in st. bernards...


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## Miss Brown (Mar 30, 2011)

Volunteer nay-sayers: There are real and palpable THREATS to your livelyhood; this is not one of them. You used to work for the middle-class. Maybe the upper-middle class. Well, guess what? They just got bulldozed by: International trade agreements, the ponzi scheme that was our economy, spiraling personal and public debt, the fictitious depression of the Yuan and a nearly inexhaustible pool of near-slave labor in Asia. That's the short list. Of course, if that's too complicated, there's always the convenience of a mirror when hunting for the job-snatching scape goat.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

forgive them miss brown....they are morons:sad:


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> forgive them miss brown....they are morons:sad:


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## Redliz75 (Jun 23, 2011)

Miss Brown said:


> Volunteer nay-sayers: There are real and palpable THREATS to your livelyhood; this is not one of them. You used to work for the middle-class. Maybe the upper-middle class. Well, guess what? They just got bulldozed by: International trade agreements, the ponzi scheme that was our economy, spiraling personal and public debt, the fictitious depression of the Yuan and a nearly inexhaustible pool of near-slave labor in Asia. That's the short list. Of course, if that's too complicated, there's always the convenience of a mirror when hunting for the job-snatching scape goat.




One place to find blame is to look around our own houses and garages. How many things have we bought that were manufactured in foreign countries.


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## GSP7 (Aug 24, 2011)

Like another guy said, with a 6" knife, You do one side, let dry, then the other side. This is useing hand knives only. . Thats from a journeyman drywall tapper. I also dont like hot mud unless its a patch of some sort.
This is the fastest way as you will be be doing 1st, 2nd, pickup on the rest of the job any way


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

GSP7 said:


> Like another guy said, with a 6" knife, You do one side, let dry, then the other side. This is useing hand knives only. . Thats from a journeyman drywall tapper. I also dont like hot mud unless its a patch of some sort.
> *This is the fastest way as you will be be doing 1st, 2nd*, pickup on the rest of the job any way


Gotta disagree, fast is doing both sides at once with hot mud. I've done it for awhile that way, smaller knife too.


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## BarryE (Dec 12, 2009)

Paulie said:


> Gotta disagree, fast is doing both sides at once with hot mud. I've done it for awhile that way, smaller knife too.


gotta disagree :whistling I do prefer hot mud on smaller jobs...unless I'm only doing 1 or 2 corners I prefer doing one side at a time. Don't see it taking any more time

Also prefer a 6" knife and no corner trowel :no:


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

I guess it a preference thing,

I use hot mud on small stuff that needs done now,
Anything with size I prefer regular mud.

imo, hot mud really just isn't as smooth of a mix, and it doesn't feather over or sand as nice.


Job size determines it for me, not to mention it needs worked fast.
Not for amatuers :no:

-


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## GSP7 (Aug 24, 2011)

> hot mud really just isn't as smooth of a mix, and it doesn't feather over or sand as nice.


Yep, I agree. 

Just mixing hot mud adds time to the job, dont forget cleaning tools afterwards, more time.

Then How many seperate Batches of hot mud are ya going to spend time mixing up to do all of those angles. That stuff is going to start going off before your done

:whistling :laughing:


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

I use a stiff 4" knife that has been slightly modified so as to not cut into the tape. Once the tape is laid in I come back right then and lay the first coat in using a 4" corner knife. After that is dry I come in with the 6" knife and run both sides, no need to get the knife right into the corner as it is already hit.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

WildWill said:


> I use a stiff 4" knife that has been slightly modified so as to not cut into the tape. Once the tape is laid in I come back right then and lay the first coat in using a 4" corner knife. After that is dry I come in with the 6" knife and run both sides, no need to get the knife right into the corner as it is already hit.


True :thumbup:


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Usually mix 1/2 full bucket of 45 or full bucket of 90 for bigger jobs at a time. All three coats, one day. Last coat is green top to smooth out any "rough" spots. .

Now if your talking a whole house I'd use tools like I'm currently investing in now

But I agree it's all how you learn and what you prefer. Everybody has their way and feel it's the best and it is, if it works for you.


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## LEVELBEST (Dec 28, 2006)

phnola said:


> yes we work for free, homeowner pays for materials only. funding comes from donations and grants.
> 
> guess i picked the wrong forum


How many times do we have to see this type of thing before folks just start giving serious answers without being assholes about it? Seriously. If we aren't good enough at our jobs to not worry about a do-it-yourselfer taking over our profession or taking food off or our tables then we need to find a new profession. Good Lord. He said he was working for a NON-PROFIT at the onset. If you think he's lying, then so be it, but do the right thing and help him out in case he's not.

It amazes me that some folks here act like what we do for a living is top secret, billion dollar technology. Even if he was just fishing for info, he wasn't asking for your pricing, Heaven forbid, just for advice. Why not give it to him without being a dick about it?


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

BarryE said:


> gotta disagree :whistling I do prefer hot mud on smaller jobs...unless I'm only doing 1 or 2 corners *I prefer doing one side at a time*. Don't see it taking any more time
> 
> 
> Also prefer a 6" knife and no corner trowel :no:



I happened across this thread again. How can another step take less time? 



CCCo. said:


> I guess it a preference thing,
> 
> I use hot mud on small stuff that needs done now,
> Anything with size I prefer regular mud.
> ...




I kinda agree with you as far as the texture. It does seem to be a little rougher but third coat is green top for me (bucket mud) and fills any imperfections. 



GSP7 said:


> Yep, I agree.
> 
> Just mixing hot mud adds time to the job, dont forget cleaning tools afterwards, more time.
> 
> ...


Speed is the whole reason for using hot mud. It sets so that multiple coats can be applied at once. As for mixing a lot of batches and cleaning up knives all the time you just have to get faster and use longer set times for large batches. 

Hot mud is way less work for bigger jobs IMO.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

CCCo. said:


>


callem as i see em...thats all mr eyeroll


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

For us amateurs, using the hot mud is an adventure. By the time I locate my knife, tape, ladder, resink a screw/nail, etc, the 20 minutes are up.


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Warren said:


> For us amateurs, using the hot mud is an adventure. By the time I locate my knife, tape, ladder, resink a screw/nail, etc, the 20 minutes are up.


That's right.... your a roofer. :laughing:


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## Redliz75 (Jun 23, 2011)

Warren said:


> For us amateurs, using the hot mud is an adventure. By the time I locate my knife, tape, ladder, resink a screw/nail, etc, the 20 minutes are up.





You can get 210 minute hot mud. That is what they used when I had my house built.


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## BarryE (Dec 12, 2009)

Paulie said:


> I happened across this thread again. How can another step take less time?



where does it say less time? :no:

depends on the size of the job. 1 leg or 48 legs.... using hot mud I can do one side of the leg or lid corners...do the flats on the off walls and when I come back for another coat do the opposites. legs don't take as many coats as butts and flats anyway


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Redliz75 said:


> You can get 210 minute hot mud. That is what they used when I had my house built.


Yes I know. I never get the 20 minute stuff. 45 gives me about just enough time to complete a pan or two.:thumbsup:


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I ran 11 bags of 20 and 3 bags of 5 today after I got a big unfinished holiday suprise this morning. I had a feeling it was going to happen. You just need a helper to mix and clean. It felt good to bust out the old rusty knives. I still got it!


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

BarryE said:


> gotta disagree :whistling I do prefer hot mud on smaller jobs...unless I'm only doing 1 or 2 corners I prefer doing one side at a time. Don't see it taking any *more time*
> 
> Also prefer a 6" knife and no corner trowel :no:





BarryE said:


> where does it say less time? :no:
> 
> depends on the size of the job. 1 leg or 48 legs.... using hot mud I can do one side of the leg or lid corners...do the flats on the off walls and when I come back for another coat do the opposites. legs don't take as many coats as butts and flats anyway



If you do both sides at once on all legs and corners rather than one side at a time it will take more time... no?

Butts and flats should already be done. And out of curiosity, why apply more coats on flats and butts?

Perhaps you are combining flats with legs, doing half side of legs and working the butts at the same time per bucket. In that case I can see your point.


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## TLK2 (Jun 10, 2008)

Hey Ohio!! I'd like to see some of those mighty fine drywall finish jobs you do with all that High dollar 5 you like to use on big jobs. Talk is cheap, proof is in the Pudding!! And why spend extra money and extra energy on using 5 on running joints??  small patches and board repairs, even two board repair i understand , but to start running all those joints. why even consider having a helper when you can mix bucket loads at a time by yourself. bag and a piece will fill a 5gallon bucket up.


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