# Can this be removed from the threshold?



## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

As you can see, the last 3-4 inches of this adjustable threshold turns up and we can’t get the door closed. I’ve tried adjusting – no joy! I’ve tried beating it down – no joy! I’ve tried to remove with a pry bar and it appears it interlocks with the aluminum part.

Any ideas?


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Pic wont open for me on my phone. Never had that issue. Is it the kind with the four bolts for adjustment? 

Maybe remove the plastic threshold and rip on the table saw. Or cut off bolts, drill out, and set with new bolts in concrete epoxy.


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Or else recess the threshold, R2 the doorstops.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

I managed to take one of those apart a few years ago, but danged if I can remember the details. :sad:


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

It looks like its been rubbing to tight on the hinge side too for a long time.

I'd maybe try to put a long screw 3 to 4 inches into the top hinge and see if that helps pulling up on the door to aleviate some of the drag.

Then to address the curl - jump out maybe 3/4" drill and countersink a spot for one more screw - put the screw in and suck it down.

Do both of those things and you'll be in like flin, and all you need is a couple screws and a cordless drill :thumbsup:


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

I wish I could see the pic, damnit. 

Just a guess, but I imagine Paul put a long screw in it.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

looks like an old install - and the board curls pretty good - thinking he might not have, dunno :laughing:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

The ones I have dealt with, if you were to continue unscrewing the screws they will release from the threaded collars underneath. Then it may take a touch of prying to get it out. Order a new one and your in business.:thumbsup:


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## KermieB (Jul 27, 2012)

The screws are locked into the adjustable wooden threashold and then screw down into an aluminum piece on the bottom. If the screws aren't stripped out, then just keep screwing them out a little at a time until the wooden strip is released. I, however, do not think you will be able to reuse the wooden strip. I just can't imagine that you could straighten out a piece that's that warped. You will have to make you a new one and then you wont be able to adjust it like the factory piece, so you'll have to, by trial and error, keep shimming the new wooden strip until it's good. THEN... put in new screws to hold it down. But remember, use stainless screws, or they will rust out in now time and you'll be screwed.

Good luck.


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## Shellbuilder (May 14, 2006)

Aren't those screws reverse thread?


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

Thanks guys ! It’s a pool house (on a concrete pad). No way to send another screw in to suck it down. 

I’ve put all my 200 lbs on this end (ok 211 lbs) - but it don’t budge.

I’ve run the screws down through the adjustable piece – thinking it would come out – but it appears to be locked in (in profile imagine two “Js” – one upside down that interlock). When I put the pry bar on it, I think the whole threshold will come with it (I don’t want that to happen).

I thought about “adjusting” the hinges to tilt the door a bit, but the reveals look really good – if not too tight already.

Now, I’m thinking about just taking my belt sander as close as I can to the jamb/stop, then using the multi tool to shave close to the jamb (where the belt sander can’t reach).

It’s amazing – this is a $400k project and this little POS is causing me to look for help :wallbash:


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Can you mortise the hinges.


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## KermieB (Jul 27, 2012)

Shellbuilder said:


> Aren't those screws reverse thread?


Not that I remember, no, but it's been a while since I had to mess with one, so I wouldn't bet either way.

The last time I had to mess with one was when I had a door going on a concrete slab and I had to remove the wood so I could drill the base to use anchors. In this case, the screws were new and it was easy peazy on that job. Older screws can give you a fit.


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## TheBuildingFirm (Dec 10, 2006)

I've had several of these replaced on new builds as they always seem to get scratched. The service tech from my door supplier would just unscrew it and replace it with a new piece. 

Perhaps those screws are indeed reverse thread or just tight with junk in the threads.


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## Shellbuilder (May 14, 2006)

http://www.thermatru.com/customer-support/replacement-parts/find/Default.aspx?category=Sills


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

TheBuildingFirm said:


> I've had several of these replaced on new builds as they always seem to get scratched. The service tech from my door supplier would just unscrew it and replace it with a new piece.
> 
> Perhaps those screws are indeed reverse thread or just tight with junk in the threads.


Wrap with Ramboard and remove the seal from the door, or cover in Blue tape. Keeps from being scratched MOST of the time. I generally use a temp door as well.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

at about 5:50 shows how it's removed




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1R5Y6EQR7GE


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> at about 5:50 shows how it's removed
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Tom, I don’t have safety glasses… do you think I should do this? :laughing: Thanks! I’ll give this another try.


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## CCCo. (Jul 19, 2009)

why can't you use a hammer drill and go into the slab and inch or two ??

Then send in a screw - hmmm


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

CCCo. I’ve put my weight on this thing and beat on it with a hammer – she’s not going down! I suspect a screw would strip in the concrete before it moves this piece. Just my gut feeling.

I believe this piece is composit (maybe PVC). The head would also suck through - before it sucked down.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I thought they were held together with TLocks from underneath. If it's down as far as the manufacturer allows them the door is out of square.


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

Just an update: The thing came out just as Stuble’s video showed – well with a little bigger pry bar :laughing:


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Tom Struble said:


> at about 5:50 shows how it's removed
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Geez, I watched the whole video and they didn't say what to do when REEB sets the mull posts too close together and you can't close the door.:laughing:


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## Robinsonfam1 (Feb 17, 2011)

ive had this issue several times over the years. when that oak curls up from water/warping its time to replace it. usually at that point the brass screws are too stripped out either in the P#2 or the t-nut inside. if you can get new channels then thats the easiest but typically need to cut out the whole sill and replace it. notice how many of the new doors are plastic thresholds and no longer wood.

many many times i get called to a "rotting door frame" and i give the customer the option to replace the entire jamb/BM or replace the whole unit. if its one jamb then ok, if its 2+ jambs, i lean hard on selling the new unit.

i cant say i condone the ol "cut it 12 up and patch it". ever seen that after a year? ugh


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

i've had TT doors that still dragged on the adjustable part of the threshold even with the screws all the way down,i have pulled the insert out and carefully ran it thru the table saw to cut back the small legs on the bottom


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Robinsonfam1 said:


> ive had this issue several times over the years. when that oak curls up from water/warping its time to replace it. usually at that point the brass screws are too stripped out either in the P#2 or the t-nut inside. if you can get new channels then thats the easiest but typically need to cut out the whole sill and replace it. notice how many of the new doors are plastic thresholds and no longer wood.
> 
> many many times i get called to a "rotting door frame" and i give the customer the option to replace the entire jamb/BM or replace the whole unit. if its one jamb then ok, if its 2+ jambs, i lean hard on selling the new unit.
> 
> i cant say i condone the ol "cut it 12 up and patch it". ever seen that after a year? ugh



If it is a ThermaTru door with the exposed screw heads I thibnk you will find that a #3 tip will fit tighter and not strip out like a #2 will.


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