# Curved Stairs Again



## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Pics, as promised. Sorry if theyre a little blurry. I was trying not to use the flash.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

How big is the blade on that worm drive? Looks bigger then 7 1/4


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

Nice! Those look tight!


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

jlsconstruction said:


> How big is the blade on that worm drive? Looks bigger then 7 1/4


Standard 7 1/4" Defalt blade. Full depth it will just make it thru two treads at once. But not cutting the arc on the outer end. 1 1/8" and enough to tickle the one under to mark it.

So, question. If I were to add a 2X4 under the 2X12, or use a 2X8 in place of the 2X4 nailer on the 2X12 with the top of that still at my riser height, and apply my stringer flexply so it planes thru at those points, will that work for drywall backing under the stairs? Is that the right plane? The rock would come out under the stringer. Last one I did I had to sheet it with 1/4" ply so the pansy-ass rockers could rock it.

I saw that post from '09 in the drywall section, and Lone's suggestion of using the metal studs with a slight twist is just brilliant! But to me this would be very easy given this method of framing the risers. I won't have a stringer on the other side, just the studs.

Excuse my miserable attempt at drafting, Andy.


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## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

Alright, that's just awesome.

Great job, kite.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Nice!


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Very cool. Thanks for the pics.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I was under the impression that the inside radius would be free standing. Looks great anyway. My work here is done!:laughing:


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Warren said:


> I was under the impression that the inside radius would be free standing. Looks great anyway. My work here is done!:laughing:


That's just the basement set. The upper one is free standing. Starting on it Saturday. Plumber's bitchin about having to climb a ladder.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

kiteman said:


> That's just the basement set. The upper one is free standing. Starting on it Saturday. Plumber's bitchin about having to climb a ladder.


Take lots of pics. I'd love to build one of those someday. :thumbup:


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## Eric K (Nov 24, 2005)

2 things....

#1 What don't plumbers ***** about (when they show up)
#2 Great work!!


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Eric K said:


> 2 things....
> 
> #1 What don't plumbers ***** about (when they show up)


LOL, no kidding! He shows up Monday, late morning, supposed to cut his stacks in for the roofer. Rearranges tools in his van for 10 minutes, leaves for the day. Tuesday, shows up at 11, sits in van 5 minutes, leaves. Comes back at noon just as we pull off the job. HO/GC calls me an hour later, says plumber cut in 2 stacks, 1 in rear, 1 in front. Says to him, "In front? Not supposed to be any in front! Fix it!" "Duh, how do I do that?"


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## Eric K (Nov 24, 2005)

Sounds like the sparky on a job I'm on now.


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## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

kiteman said:


> LOL, no kidding! He shows up Monday, late morning, supposed to cut his stacks in for the roofer. Rearranges tools in his van for 10 minutes, leaves for the day. Tuesday, shows up at 11, sits in van 5 minutes, leaves. Comes back at noon just as we pull off the job. HO/GC calls me an hour later, says plumber cut in 2 stacks, 1 in rear, 1 in front. Says to him, "In front? Not supposed to be any in front! Fix it!" "Duh, how do I do that?"


Damn! It's either us or the roofers cutting for the stacks here. Most plumbers won't get up in the attic/trusses or on the roof.

I've seen only one guy do it so far, the rest just point and say "there"


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## littlefred811 (Dec 16, 2012)

Lookin' VERY good! Stairs are something that I have never enjoyed. Beautiful.


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## 413Sean (Jan 6, 2012)

kiteman said:


> LOL, no kidding! He shows up Monday, late morning, supposed to cut his stacks in for the roofer. Rearranges tools in his van for 10 minutes, leaves for the day. Tuesday, shows up at 11, sits in van 5 minutes, leaves. Comes back at noon just as we pull off the job. HO/GC calls me an hour later, says plumber cut in 2 stacks, 1 in rear, 1 in front. Says to him, "In front? Not supposed to be any in front! Fix it!" "Duh, how do I do that?"


Nothing dumber than a plumber, haha, just heard it said on our last job by a sparky of course!


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Looks great Kite man:thumbsup: wish I had more opportunity to do that kind of work.


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Upper stairs are in, with the inside radius all temped till the flexply gets in. It was a hot mofo in that corner today. My shirt was soaked by 9. 

Here's the spiral stair calculator I used. Worked pretty good.

Nailing on the treads was a pretty tedious process. Laser the back outside and put in a spacer block, then laser the inside when nailing. Repeat. 15 times.

Anyway, enjoy. I'm going to go to my daughter's to watch football.


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## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

That's just awesome man.

Sometimes I love standing back, looking at my work, and saying, "damn it feels good to be a framer."

I can imagine you were thinking this, too.


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Brutus said:


> That's just awesome man.
> 
> Sometimes I love standing back, looking at my work, and saying, "damn it feels good to be a framer."
> 
> I can imagine you were thinking this, too.


I was mostly thinking "I'm so freaking hot I can't stand it any longer.":laughing:


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

HO sent me a pic of the stairs finished except for carpet


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

kiteman said:


> HO sent me a pic of the stairs finished except for carpet


Nice, they look great.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Very nice.


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## 66 Shelby (Jan 11, 2009)

Really nice work on your part kiteman! :thumbsup: To me it seems a shame to do carpet instead of treads if you're spending all that money on a curved staircase.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Very nice Kiteman:thumbsup: I see the balusters in on the far side? I wonder how the carpet will work around them? Hardwood would be nice.


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## littlefred811 (Dec 16, 2012)

Well Done!!!


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## 98crewcab (Oct 7, 2013)

absolutely beautiful work...would love to do a set one day. any one close taking on one and needs some free help in trade for some knowledge? lol


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

Thanks to all for your comments. Hardwood treads are a rarity here, especially at this price point. Carpet guys can just cut and stitch around them, right? Easy peasy.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

*Freestanding Stringer Questions*

This summer I'll be building a stringer basically identical to yours, and I have some brief questions:

-You mentioned that you used drywall screws. Did you have to use clamps?

-If you used no clamps, were you able to build the entire stringer at one time or did you have to wait for the glue to dry?

-How thick was your flex-ply? You mentioned 3/8" ply at $47 per sheet, but the sheet you show laying over the saw horse looks reeeeeally bendy. Looks like 1/8"

-What was the finished thickness of the stringer?


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## CanningCustom (Nov 4, 2007)

NickAylett said:


> This summer I'll be building a stringer basically identical to yours, and I have some brief questions:
> 
> -You mentioned that you used drywall screws. Did you have to use clamps?
> 
> ...


I have done these as well and to answer some of your question's
1. I used clamps just to have a extra set of hands.
2. I was able to build the whole stringer in 1 shot because the temp framing holding up the inner radii of the stair case was solid and no going anywhere (I hope )
3. 11 layers of 3/8" flexi ply is what I did for a result of 4 1/8 stringer. As far as it looking like 1/8" going ummmm look again . The cost of the sheeting up here are different. I believe I paid closer to $60 a sheet.

Well hope this helps, and please head of to the intro section and tell us a little about yourself. Thanks


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## asgoodasdead (Aug 30, 2013)

Wood O-K said:


> is the framer building stars common practice where you are?
> Up here nobody builds stairs except for stair manufactures.


same here. sometimes we set them, sometimes the stair company does. then we just frame underneath. but we just bid a house with gnarly round stairs we're supposed to frame ourselves.


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## SAcarpenter (Oct 10, 2008)

Dam! I just found this now after i did a set. That stringer is awesome. How did you figure how wide to rip the ply and how did you keep the top and bottom square/level? Man that is just awesome! Great job!


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## ShadowLynx (Feb 22, 2014)

Looks awesome! Great job! How was the bottom side of the stairs finished? Drywall and paint? Or sheathed and stained?


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

NickAylett said:


> This summer I'll be building a stringer basically identical to yours, and I have some brief questions:
> 
> -You mentioned that you used drywall screws. Did you have to use clamps?
> 
> ...





CanningCustom said:


> I have done these as well and to answer some of your question's
> 1. I used clamps just to have a extra set of hands.
> 2. I was able to build the whole stringer in 1 shot because the temp framing holding up the inner radii of the stair case was solid and no going anywhere (I hope )
> 3. 11 layers of 3/8" flexi ply is what I did for a result of 4 1/8 stringer. As far as it looking like 1/8" going ummmm look again . The cost of the sheeting up here are different. I believe I paid closer to $60 a sheet.
> ...


Everything Canning said is pretty much what I did. No clamps, but an extra set of hands sometimes. I would preset a couple short _construction_ screws sometimes when putting up the first piece on a run. I had an assortment of _construction_ screws 3/4" to 3 1/2" and tried to get the screws through to the framing. Once the first layer was up, keeping them lined up was pretty easy. You have to slightly adjust the angle each run as the radius gets a little smaller each layer. It seems like the rips are about 16", enough to keep a 3" reveal above the treads. I cleaned up the top a little with a planer.

Adding an extra 2x4under each 2x12 worked perfect for the bottom to plane in on the bottom. I'm pretty sure it was drywalled underneath.


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## CanningCustom (Nov 4, 2007)

kiteman said:


> Everything Canning said is pretty much what I did. No clamps, but an extra set of hands sometimes. I would preset a couple short construction screws sometimes when putting up the first piece on a run. I had an assortment of construction screws 3/4" to 3 1/2" and tried to get the screws through to the framing. Once the first layer was up, keeping them lined up was pretty easy. You have to slightly adjust the angle each run as the radius gets a little smaller each layer. It seems like the rips are about 16", enough to keep a 3" reveal above the treads. I cleaned up the top a little with a planer.
> 
> Adding an extra 2x4under each 2x12 worked perfect for the bottom to plane in on the bottom. I'm pretty sure it was drywalled underneath.


Sorry for jumping in on your answer bud, been sitting on a$$ too long now.


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## kiteman (Apr 18, 2012)

CanningCustom said:


> Sorry for jumping in on your answer bud, been sitting on a$$ too long now.


Yeah, me too.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

*My First Stairs*

Alright I got my stairs built. Here’s the build:
I always wanted to have a curved staircase, but didn't want to pay what they were asking. It was a very big DIY project, especially for never even having seen someone actually build a staircase like this. But with a proper understanding of the codes, and help from this and like websites, I was able to pull it off. 

My stairs travel between the main floor and basement so the glory of the freestanding stringer is only visible from the basement. I know it’s not ideal, but I couldn't afford to build another story on top. 

I designed my house with a series of radii, the first being the stairs, then walls and a hallway around that.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

I drilled a 3/16” hole in the concrete at the center of the radii, perfect for a 16d nail. I bought a cheap tape measure and drilled holes in it at the appropriate lengths to be able to poke my pencil through and draw the same arc every time. I marked the plywood (treated & non) to make the top and bottom plates for the wall outside of the stairs, cut them out and built the round wall. Worked great.

Next I snapped out the treads on the floor, making sure I’d have appropriate head room, and minimum tread depth (snapping all lines from that hole I drilled in the concrete).. Once I had the travel, I plotted each step’s rise and run on the form wall I had framed to shape the freestanding stringer. Here’s the view from above...


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

Now I was ready to bend the ¼” sheets of Lauan plywood, which I got for only $17 per sheet form a friend at the specialty lumber store. I cut them to 16” strips, which I was ultimately really happy with. I used Titebond Original Wood Glue, applied with a paint roller and screwed each layer to the studs, which I removed before continuing on to successive layers until it was 1” thick, at which point I turned to 18 gauge 1” x ⅛” crown staples. This made the process go much faster.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

The toughest part was lining up vertically the 8’ long sheets. If it’s rotated, let’s say, 5 degrees counterclockwise, then by the time you get down to the other end to staple it, it’s twisted & bowing away from the desired location, it’s not flat. I did need clamps to force it back where it belonged.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

Once the stringer was 2” thick, there wasn't much reason to continue making the stringer 16” high. 2” was plenty for the treads to rest on. so carefully plotting each rise and run on the stringer, I cut out what I could with the Skil saw and finished it with the Sawzall.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

All remaining 16” strips were cut down to 8” and the process continued. at this point it was about making a rounded beam 6” thick A total of more than 15,000 staples were used. I know... that’s a lot of staples. Oh well.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

From here it was downhill. I cut the risers and treads from 1 ⅞” LVL’s, more Titebond Original, Simson SD-6 screws from risers to treads (from beneath), and from treads and risers to the stringer, and it was solid. I was worried about it being bouncy… Not at all.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

It was a journey from educating myself, to design, to build and completion, but it was well worth the work.


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

That's phucking great man. 
Two thumbs up!


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

NickAylett said:


> It was a journey from educating myself, to design, to build and completion, but it was well worth the work.



Even though most guys don't, I'd put a jack stud under the risers


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Awesome Nick!! Great prgress pics and description. I hope to do a staircase like that one day too and hope I remember yours.


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

jlsconstruction said:


> Even though most guys don't, I'd put a jack stud under the risers


Yes I have since added studs beneath the risers.


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## mikecocozza (Aug 18, 2011)

NickAylett said:


> It was a journey from educating myself, to design, to build and completion, but it was well worth the work.


 nice looking stairs. We just finished this set. It was my first curved stair build. A lot of fun.


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## shanewreckd (Oct 2, 2014)

Those are crazy! I love the looks of the stairs guys :thumbsup: 

I'm just going through learning the process myself, hopefully one day I'll use the knowledge.


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## aaron_a (Dec 18, 2013)

These look great. I want to build a curved staircase so bad. 

The first staircase I ever built had a curved landing that I had to fab a railing for. I'd love to get my hands on a full staircase.


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## Mark Hjelm (Aug 1, 2013)

Here's a set I built a couple of years ago/ATTACH]


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## Mark Hjelm (Aug 1, 2013)

Here's another set I built about 4 years ago. You can see the temporary barrel wall to build the stringer. I used 3/8" osb struct1


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## Mark Hjelm (Aug 1, 2013)

Basement stairs


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## NickAylett (Mar 12, 2014)

Wow, how sturdy is that OSB? That may have saved me a bit of money.


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## Mark Hjelm (Aug 1, 2013)

Rock solid...


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