# Strapping, why NOT !



## Willie 2

I have done a thread search looking for any reason I would NOT want to strap the 24 inch centers trusses with 1x4 wood before I sub out the rock installation. Cost and labor to install the strapping is not an issue, just trying to do the best job possible on my retirement home. Using 1/2 material throughout the home. Thanks for your professional opinions.


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## loneframer

1/2" over 2' centers? I would strap it..... after insulating it.:thumbsup:


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## jlhaslip

5/8 type 'x' fire rated or 5/8" ceiling board will deflect less and not require strapping.


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## CookeCarpentry

Willie 2 said:


> I have done a thread search looking for any reason I would NOT want to strap the 24 inch centers trusses with 1x4 wood before I sub out the rock installation. Cost and labor to install the strapping is not an issue, just trying to do the best job possible on my retirement home. Using 1/2 material throughout the home. Thanks for your professional opinions.


No reason I can think of NOT to - but a whole lot of reasons I can think of for strapping!


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## Sir Mixalot

I would use furring strips on that ceiling too.








I don't really like attaching drywall directly to the truss's.
The only reasons I would attach directly to a truss would be that a ceiling has a height issue already or if the HO/Builder dosen't want to cover the cost of adding strapping.:thumbsup:


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## woodworkbykirk

correct me if im wrong but strapping a ceiling doesnt have anything to do with simply being something to fasten drywall to, its there for strengthening the floor/roof system via tieing the two ends together so it doesnt fall over!!! i.e lateral bracing

about 20 years ago there was a builder who put up a 6 floor apartment building, he was more concerned with having the framers get the roof on up on the 6th floor as opposed to strapping and bracing the walls each floor. well a heavy windstorm hit, the building was on its side the next day


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## Cjeff

Many around here do not strap, My father in law is from Newfoundland and there some strap and some do not.
Here 24" OC trusses with 1/2" ceiling Board (is denser and has fibers in it, not the same as regular drywall) is the norm. We used to use 5/8 but this is lighter to lift.
I now use Butt Boards and do not join on a truss but in-between them.

That way if a truss twists or moved it will not cause a crack at the butt joint.


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## Tom M

woodworkbykirk said:


> correct me if im wrong but strapping a ceiling doesnt have anything to do with simply being something to fasten drywall to, its there for strengthening the floor/roof system via tieing the two ends together so it doesnt fall over!!! i.e lateral bracing
> 
> about 20 years ago there was a builder who put up a 6 floor apartment building, he was more concerned with having the framers get the roof on up on the 6th floor as opposed to strapping and bracing the walls each floor. well a heavy windstorm hit, the building was on its side the next day


There is no need for lateral bracing as the drywall and roof sheathing act as a diaphram.

The strapping is for furring and span reduction to better support finishes. Make sure you cripple in your furring on perpendicular joints every 10ft for fireblocking concealed spaces.


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## Willie 2

So many different answers, but all have their good points, Thanks:thumbsup: Here is another one : which side of the vapor barrier should I put the strapping, warm or cold ???


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## katoman

Strapping - that would depend on the quality of the trusses. I've got one truss company that builds quality trusses with quality lumber. If I have no more than 1/8" or maybe 3/16" then I would just use the 5/8" board.

More than that I would strap it.

Typically I would VB to the truss, then strap it. Another option is furring channel, which is cheaper and much faster to install.


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## Big Shoe

Sir Mixalot said:


> I would use furring strips on that ceiling too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really like attaching drywall directly to the truss's.
> The only reasons I would attach directly to a truss would be that a ceiling has a height issue already or if the HO/Builder dosen't want to cover the cost of adding strapping.:thumbsup:


Took the words out of my mouth. arty:


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## Morning Wood

Strap with 1x3's at 16" o.c here in New England.


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## Willie 2

Any other thoughts on placing the VP first then strapping or strapping then VP.


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## Tom M

Im all for the idea of vapor first then strapping. What you create is an ideal air gap to dry out any moisture between the material/


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## OCRS

I like VB 1st then strapping. I've seen staples give way to the weight of the blown-in. Doing it this way also avoids problems when the ceiling/wall VB was not stapled tight in the corners.


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## woodworkbykirk

we always have the vb go on after teh strapping, reason being less penetrations in the vapour barrier, every nail or staple trhough the strapping creates holes then add the drywall screws


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## Joe Carola

woodworkbykirk said:


> *correct me if im wrong *but strapping a ceiling doesnt have anything to do with simply being something to fasten drywall to, its there for strengthening the floor/roof system via tieing the two ends together so it doesnt fall over!!! i.e lateral bracing


You are wrong. Strapping is not there to tie anything together or strengthen anything together. The subfloor ties the ceiling together. If what your saying was true every single house and addition would be using strapping. It is there because it is a choice to use Regionally. New Jersey never uses strapping and every building is safe and sound.

This strapping debate comes up every few months or so and gets nowhere. The bottom line is that it is optional and a Regional thing and is not necessary for sheetrock or strength, you just don't need it. To say that you do is completely wrong when there are millions of houses and additions that don't have it.




> about 20 years ago there was a builder who put up a 6 floor apartment building, he was more concerned with having the framers get the roof on up on the 6th floor as opposed to strapping and bracing the walls each floor. well a heavy windstorm hit, the building was on its side the next day


That building had nothing at all to do with not having strapping on the ceilings. Maybe there wasn't enough bracing on the walls. Strapping a ceiling during framing or after framing means nothing for strength and tying in the building.


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## Big Shoe

Here in Florida we use metal hi-hat/channel, normally 7/8'' depth. Srewed on both sides on all joist/truss, 16'' o.c.

If you have any bad trusses this will ''help'' to flatten your ceilings. You can get a near perfect ceiling by shimming if desired.

Joe,I never looked up the specs on this but would think it has to add some strength to the truss system.


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## Tinstaafl

Big Shoe said:


> Joe,I never looked up the specs on this but would think it has to add some strength to the truss system.


Sure. So does the drywall itself, but that's not normally considered/counted on with structural calculations.


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## Joe Carola

Big Shoe said:


> Joe,I never looked up the specs on this but would think it has to add some strength to the truss system.


If it did, every single truss would require strapping. They don't. Strapping is not required structurally or code anywhere.


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## Kent Whitten

Tinstaafl said:


> Sure. So does the drywall itself, but that's not normally considered/counted on with structural calculations.


This will sound odd, but a few places, this is true. WA state had a sheetrock shear nail schedule. The inspector had to come by and check out the nailing patters on the sheetrock...no screws.

Most of the 3 story apartments I was working on out there had this stuff called gyp board, which was like an exterior sheetrock. That was the exterior sheathing believe it or not. Not quite like dens glass.


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## woodworkbykirk

strapping or channel whichever i find it hard to believe that drywall alone will strenghthen a roof system. 

with how often we see nail pops after 6 months of a building being done i find it hard to believe that the drywall will withstand truss uplift without the nails or screws pulling through. obviously they dont do it where you are. ive worked on 130 year old homes where the ceilings were strapped. 

around here if bottom chords of trusses arent strapped and in some larger roof systems we require the vertical webs to be strapped to strengthen it otherwise it wont pass an inspection


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## Tinstaafl

framerman said:


> This will sound odd, but a few places, this is true. WA state had a sheetrock shear nail schedule. The inspector had to come by and check out the nailing patters on the sheetrock...*no screws*.


Only on the left coast. :laughing:

Seriously, it makes all the sense in the world that every layer/fastener combination is going to add to the strength of a structure.

However, it's considerably more practical to base structural calculations on the "beef", and ignore the less substantial components. While they do contribute, you'd have to have interminable inspections to ensure that every layer is constructed perfectly, and that would cripple the process of just getting the danged thing built. Not to mention sacrificing some margins.

Never ran into gyp board, thank you. :thumbsup:


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## Jeff G

Big Shoe said:


> Here in Florida we use metal hi-hat/channel, normally 7/8'' depth. Srewed on both sides on all joist/truss, 16'' o.c.
> 
> *If you have any bad trusses this will ''help'' to flatten your ceilings.* You can get a near perfect ceiling by shimming if desired.
> 
> Joe,I never looked up the specs on this but would think it has to add some strength to the truss system.


This is one of the most common reasons I've used strapping.


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## Tom M

IRC sect 702.3.7 Explains the drywall diaphragm ceiling and lateral bracing. It was added in 2006

I think this is one of those misinterpreted things. Ceilings joist are really known as rafter ties, in the code it says rafter ties(ceiling ties) run perpendicular to rafters shall be strapped across the building to create a continuous tie. That strapping needs to occur on the attic side of the ceiling joists to hold the roof.


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## Big Shoe

The funny thing is here in Florida we call it stripping the trusses and its done on the bottom only.

You guys call it strapping and I think most uf us think we are talking about the same thing........ Are we?:blink:

If I had a Hurricane or tornado ripping my house apart, I would think strapped/stripped trusses would hold a ''little'' better. Would'nt you?

Just say'n arty:


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## tcleve4911

In the NE area, most strapping is installed 16" o.c.
That is a lot more fastening than the typical 24" o.c. used on trusses.

I like the 1x3 spruce strapping for easier location of recessed cans, framing walls parallel to the ceiling joists, nailers for ceiling moldings and the list goes on.

For the minimal extra time & materials involved, it just seems to give a structure much more integrity and makes it easier for most of the trades that follow.

Just my 2¢


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## Kent Whitten

Tinstaafl said:


> ..you'd have to have interminable inspections to ensure that every layer is constructed perfectly, and that would cripple the process of just getting the danged thing built.


This is one of the reasons I was fed up with building out on the west coast. Framing had 4 inspections. I could not even set a piece of plywood on my floor framing until Mr. I'm Important inspector comes and checks out every dang nail I put in on the floor system. If it fails, I was screwed for the day and most of the next day.

Get this...sheetrockers had to wait until the inspector came by to inspect the nailing pattern before beginning to mud and tape.

We had a fricken' insulation inspection before covering up with wall board.

It really was ridiculous. We moved back to Maine and I got into some framing project and I was free! Though the strapping on the ceiling really boggles my mind. Sure, it adds to the integrity, but the argument can go on and on. They don't use strapping on the west coast where earthquakes are, so the design is good and strong without strapping. 

Don't count on sheetrock having zero lateral strength, it is incredibly strong.

IMO, it is wasting money and time putting it in. It doesn't flatten out the ceiling as much as everyone thinks it does. I checked this with a laser. Before and after strapping it was a negligible amount.

Not to mention the fire hazard of horizontal channels.

No thanks. I have my sheetrock hung to framing members, not #3 1x3's.

Hell, some guys around here are going to 1x4. Might as well plywood the ceilings.


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## Tinstaafl

framerman said:


> IMO, it is wasting money and time putting it in. It doesn't flatten out the ceiling as much as everyone thinks it does. I checked this with a laser. Before and after strapping it was a negligible amount.


Agreed in general, but one place I've found it handy is after stripping a ceiling of plaster & lathe, exposing the old rough-cut ceiling joists. It's generally easier to shim than trim. :thumbsup:


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## Kent Whitten

Tinstaafl said:


> Agreed in general, but one place I've found it handy is after stripping a ceiling of plaster & lathe, exposing the old rough-cut ceiling joists. It's generally easier to shim than trim. :thumbsup:


oh yum...horsehair lath and plaster...


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## Willie 2

Framerman; Firstly thanks for your input, all these responses make me think before I do 
Regarding the insulation inspection, we have it here in small town BC, looking to see that you are meeting code requirements of R22 in walls and R52 above your head. Oh and it has to be " Canadian " product.


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## tcleve4911

framerman said:


> Not to mention the fire hazard of horizontal channels.
> 
> No thanks. I have my sheetrock hung to framing members, not #3 1x3's.


Hi Kent 
Is there a code requirement in Portland , Falmouth, Cape that says either way?

The fire hazard is a good point.


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## griz

framerman said:


> This is one of the reasons I was fed up with building out on the west coast. Framing had 4 inspections. I could not even set a piece of plywood on my floor framing until Mr. I'm Important inspector comes and checks out every dang nail I put in on the floor system. If it fails, I was screwed for the day and most of the next day.
> 
> Get this...sheetrockers had to wait until the inspector came by to inspect the nailing pattern before beginning to mud and tape.
> 
> We had a fricken' insulation inspection before covering up with wall board.
> 
> It really was ridiculous. We moved back to Maine and I got into some framing project and I was free! Though the strapping on the ceiling really boggles my mind. Sure, it adds to the integrity, but the argument can go on and on. They don't use strapping on the west coast where earthquakes are, so the design is good and strong without strapping.
> 
> Don't count on sheetrock having zero lateral strength, it is incredibly strong.
> 
> IMO, it is wasting money and time putting it in. It doesn't flatten out the ceiling as much as everyone thinks it does. I checked this with a laser. Before and after strapping it was a negligible amount.
> 
> Not to mention the fire hazard of horizontal channels.
> 
> No thanks. I have my sheetrock hung to framing members, not #3 1x3's.
> 
> Hell, some guys around here are going to 1x4. Might as well plywood the ceilings.


Framerman, very true & very well written.:thumbsup:


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## CraigV

Kent Whitten said:


> This is one of the reasons I was fed up with building out on the west coast. Framing had 4 inspections. I could not even set a piece of plywood on my floor framing until Mr. I'm Important inspector comes and checks out every dang nail I put in on the floor system. If it fails, I was screwed for the day and most of the next day.
> 
> Get this...sheetrockers had to wait until the inspector came by to inspect the nailing pattern before beginning to mud and tape.
> 
> We had a fricken' insulation inspection before covering up with wall board.
> 
> It really was ridiculous. We moved back to Maine and I got into some framing project and I was free! Though the strapping on the ceiling really boggles my mind. Sure, it adds to the integrity, but the argument can go on and on. They don't use strapping on the west coast where earthquakes are, so the design is good and strong without strapping.
> 
> Don't count on sheetrock having zero lateral strength, it is incredibly strong.
> 
> IMO, it is wasting money and time putting it in. It doesn't flatten out the ceiling as much as everyone thinks it does. I checked this with a laser. Before and after strapping it was a negligible amount.
> 
> Not to mention the fire hazard of horizontal channels.
> 
> No thanks. I have my sheetrock hung to framing members, not #3 1x3's.
> 
> Hell, some guys around here are going to 1x4. Might as well plywood the ceilings.


Old thread, I know, but I found this argument against strapping interesting. I've never really heard of strapping a ceiling for added structural integrity, only as a means of better-supporting 1/2" sheetrock, or to *allow* for shimming to fair out joists that aren't in plane.


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## icerock drywall

Morning Wood said:


> Strap with 1x3's at 16" o.c here in New England.


yep ...and its very nice. I still use it 1X3 on jobs I do but the contractors here dont
it dose help on the pops and makes a nice flat led:thumbsup:


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## CENTERLINE MV

Just to add.....the Sparkies like it for stapling directly to the underside of the rafters rather than drilling each rafter.


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## renov8r

Why not install resilient channel perpendicular to the to your joists, throw in some roxul and get some sound break too. This way you could knock it down to 12" OC or 16" OC and you have no worries for both strength from the trusses shifting plus you've now converted from 24" OC to 16" OC for your ceiling.


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## CraigV

renov8r said:


> Why not install resilient channel perpendicular to the to your joists, throw in some roxul and get some sound break too. This way you could knock it down to 12" OC or 16" OC and you have no worries for both strength from the trusses shifting plus you've now converted from 24" OC to 16" OC for your ceiling.


What you do depends on what you need. If you need noise reduction and the joists are straight, use resilient channel. If you've got old bent joists or lifted trusses, you need to shim and 1x's would be easy to use. If you simply need to reduce span below 24" you have a choice.


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## icerock drywall

photo from NH


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## IanB

I could see strapping kitchen walls for more cabinet supports or reno's to straighten some walls or ceilings out, there is sound bar channel on the market for ceilings, 
*Auralex's RC-8 Resilient Channel* is a specially-formed, sturdy metal device that, when used to hang drywall (instead of just attaching the drywall to the studs or joists), GREATLY improves the sound transmission characteristics of the wall or ceiling system.
RC-8 should be installed horizontally at the bottom and top of your wall, then every 2' or less in between. Up to (2) layers of 5/8" drywall and a layer of Sheetrock may be hung on RC-8, even on a ceiling.
that's only for sound proofing other that that unless the plans call for strapping why waste time and money...


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## Rich D.

IanB said:


> I could see strapping kitchen walls for more cabinet supports or reno's to straighten some walls or ceilings out, there is sound bar channel on the market for ceilings,
> Auralex's RC-8 Resilient Channel is a specially-formed, sturdy metal device that, when used to hang drywall (instead of just attaching the drywall to the studs or joists), GREATLY improves the sound transmission characteristics of the wall or ceiling system.
> RC-8 should be installed horizontally at the bottom and top of your wall, then every 2' or less in between. Up to (2) layers of 5/8" drywall and a layer of Sheetrock may be hung on RC-8, even on a ceiling.
> that's only for sound proofing other that that unless the plans call for strapping why waste time and money...


Wait so 2 layers of 5/8 drywall then a single layer of sheetrock? :laughing: uhhhhh..

Ive heard of rc-1 and rc-2 but never rc-8?


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## IanB

Ya sry I just copied that from a sound bar site lol that must be for eddie van halens recording studio...


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## CraigV

IanB said:


> ...that's only for sound proofing other that that unless the plans call for strapping why waste time and money...


Trusses on 24" centers are the best reason I know to strap on 16" centers. It's also a helluva lot easier to hit a 1x4 with your screwgun than the edge of a 2x.


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## IanB

CraigV said:


> Trusses on 24" centers are the best reason I know to strap on 16" centers. It's also a helluva lot easier to hit a 1x4 with your screwgun than the edge of a 2x.


For guys that board full time its not a issue, some days I used to turn my screw gun on in the morning and only shut it down for breaks and lunch and I rarely missed anything, weekenders may have problems like that pro's don't.


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## CraigV

IanB said:


> For guys that board full time its not a issue, some days I used to turn my screw gun on in the morning and only shut it down for breaks and lunch and I rarely missed anything, weekenders may have problems like that pro's don't.


No doubt, but my main point was span.

You wouldn't recommend 1/2" on 24" centers, would you?


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## IanB

CraigV said:


> No doubt, but my main point was span.
> 
> You wouldn't recommend 1/2" on 24" centers, would you?


If it was CD board or light weight ceiling board sure , diff names for that board I found out from Canada and the states. Whatever board that will give you the same rating as 5/8" and is 1/2" Some drywallers tell me they are using this board lots in Toronto area are now its a real B*** to cut but way stronger than regular drywall here's a link

http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/p...-abuse-resistant-gypsum-panels.aspx?pType=DIY


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## CraigV

IanB said:


> If it was CD board or light weight ceiling board sure , diff names for that board I found out from Canada and the states. Whatever board that will give you the same rating as 5/8" and is 1/2" Some drywallers tell me they are using this board lots in Toronto area are now its a real B*** to cut but way stronger than regular drywall here's a link
> 
> http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/p...-abuse-resistant-gypsum-panels.aspx?pType=DIY


Well at least it isn't Lafarge. I'd love to meet the factory guy who tosses cigarette butts into the slurry. Can't count how many times I've cut through a filter.:blink:


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