# Siding.



## Morris P. Kins (Jan 16, 2008)

I have to side a wall above a 2 pitch roof. The right side is the ground and the left a corner board. The total distance is 18' between trim. I know I need two first courses. Here is my question. When I level from the bottom left corner board I die right into the roof almost halfway. How do I get started? Do I run the starter course at the pitch from trim to trim, then run the next layer and let it die into the roof where the next level course would end?


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

A picture or drawing would really help, confused by your use of the term ground??????


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## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

Hey Morris,
Are you installing wood shakes here?


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## Morris P. Kins (Jan 16, 2008)

Ground: 3/4 x 3/4 inside corner trim. Applying white cedar shingles.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

I dont do a whole lot of shakes, Im sure that someone doing them every day has a better way, but I make shingle "kits" I lay a enough out on a work bench as they would be on the wall, and put my 6' level across them like the roof line, mark with a pencil, and run them through the table saw. I try to save all the extra wide shingles for these places. You just gotta keep thinking the whole way through


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

Also make sure you keep them far enough off the roof to prevent rot


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

I bet Morris has done this before,
just not with a 2 pitch.
Me either!


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

Morris P. Kins said:


> I have to side a wall above a 2 pitch roof. The right side is the ground and the left a corner board. The total distance is 18' between trim. I know I need two first courses. Here is my question. When I level from the bottom left corner board I die right into the roof almost halfway. How do I get started? Do I run the starter course at the pitch from trim to trim, then run the next layer and let it die into the roof where the next level course would end?


cut your first course to level or else you will see a flare or bulge of the sidewall on the right as the first shingle course creeps up.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

ya, 2 pitch is extreme To be honest, I would maybe cheat, maybe cut a long shim on the table saw?? to run up the wall? LOL Im just thinkin about all them paper thin pieces of shingles you would have to nail up, lol or glue!


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

Thats why I like Vinyl shakes, we dont have these sort of problems!


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## Morris P. Kins (Jan 16, 2008)

I did a small gable on the opposite side of the wall with a six foot distance between rakes at roof line. The first level line ended right at the gable end so It wasn't so bad but now the wall is 18' and level line dies into roof and I just do not want to over lap and have it noticeable. If I run two first courses at the pitch then when my next level line is up 5" from bottom of corner board and runs to bottom of ground I will run way proud of ground.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

Patrick said:


> ya, 2 pitch is extreme To be honest, I would maybe cheat, maybe cut a long shim on the table saw?? to run up the wall? LOL Im just thinkin about all them paper thin pieces of shingles you would have to nail up, lol or glue!


 
what I do with cedar undercourse is to turn it sideways when it gets that small. then the taper dies into the wall. I keep an 18 volt 6 1/4 saw by my side and a speed square while running cedar shake.


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## Patrick (Apr 12, 2006)

I had the pleasure or working along side some real production cedar shake guys doing big condos and such, IT was amazing the work they did, the speed, and the accuracy. Still amazes me how good these places still look.


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## Nail banger (Oct 8, 2007)

Here's my trick, if you know the roof you are dying into is a 2 pitch set the angle of your chop box to a 2 pitch (about 10 degrees). Now take your first shingle and cut from the corner of the shingle. Lay your next shingle next to is and mark the short point. Do this till you run out of shingle. Make a couple of "books" toss umm in a 5 gal bucket and go nail the um. If you start from the point where the corse meets the roof it goes very fast.


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## Morris P. Kins (Jan 16, 2008)

Okay, Do I start at the corner board on the left with my full angled shingle and run up the wall 1/2 off roof line cutting more and more off the bottom of the shingle until there is nothing? Basically running them level as if the roof didn't exist? Them just keep following this method until finally I have a full level line of shingle with full butt-ends. I think this makes sense to me. Could someone let me know if this sounds right. Thanks.


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## Jake Stevens (Dec 10, 2007)

I would do it the easy way and pull my line from the soffit for a starting place and put alumnium flashing down on the roof or use color coil. No shakes to cut to start and it get your shakes off the roof.


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## Morris P. Kins (Jan 16, 2008)

My roofing material is rubber and GC has spec'd it with shingles running 1/2" off roof up, from bottom of trim to trim. Rubber roof all ready done.


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## Jake Stevens (Dec 10, 2007)

Morris P. Kins said:


> My roofing material is rubber and GC has spec'd it with shingles running from bottom of trim to trim.


You could talk to the GC about puting rubber down, with lap sealer and termination bar to get your starting line. Not seeing the job first I may have set you on the wrong course. If I had to shingle down on to the old roof I would still measure down from the soffit, then snap my line to get my true pitch to the roof and cut a bunch of starters on my table saw.


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## dougthewndowguy (Jan 17, 2008)

*Siding*

Your are going to need to throw in a block to grab the starter course.


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## Morris P. Kins (Jan 16, 2008)

dougthewndowguy said:


> Your are going to need to throw in a block to grab the starter course.


 
What do you mean?


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