# concrete floor with carpet adhesive



## vconstruction (Apr 1, 2007)

I am going to be tiling our new office and there is carpet adhesive on the concrete floor. One section comes off fairly easy the rest of the floor is not coming off at all. Is it possible to go over the adhesive or is that not an option?


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

Use adhesive remover from home depot, it's by Henry in the flooring isle


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Ardex makes some wonderful tile installation materials. Here is a how to, or more importantly, how not to guide from them:

_The best way to remove most contaminants is by scarifying, shotblasting or similar mechanical method. Removal must be deep enough to eliminate all penetrated contaminants._

*Methods to Avoid*

_Acid washing_ (or acid etching) is not recommended because it is difficult to control, to fully remove the residue, and to properly neutralize. Further, the acid can penetrate into the porous concrete and chemically react with the cement, thus affecting the long-term integrity of the concrete. Acid washing will not satisfactorily remove grease and oil.

_The use of sanding equipment_ is not an effective method to remove curing and sealing compounds.

_All types of solvents should be avoided._ Their use will drive oil, grease and other contaminants further into the concrete, only to permit their release back to the surface at a later time. Physically removing oil-contaminated concrete is the only sure way to ensure a clean substrate.

_Sweeping compounds_ can leave an oily or waxy film on the surface of the concrete. Their use can create a bond-breaking layer that will result in a flooring system failure. Using a clean dry broom, sweep and vacuum the surface prior to placing any underlayment or topping.

Also, _never use adhesive removers or solvents_ to remove contaminants from porous concrete. These materials can carry contaminants into the pores of the concrete, which will later migrate back to the surface resulting in a floor covering bond failure.


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

Yes, to add to that. IF , you decide to use adhesive removers allow at least two days prior to tile installation


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## vconstruction (Apr 1, 2007)

I called to rent a scarifier today and the rental store said not to use it to remove adhesive cause it will just melt it causing it to stick to the machine. 

Is a scarifier the best method?


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

Take it from your highness..

This and adhesive remover will get it done


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

To each their own but I'm not a fan of any chemical over the concrete. It can react with the thinset. 

The rental place doesn't want you gumming up their $100+ diamond cup. It will work.


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## Edoaustin (Dec 5, 2012)

Ardex, or kerabond and keralastic


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

Ahhhhh ! 

Looks like knowledgeable competition for my man Angus .. 

Things are about to get interesting


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Use a diamond grinding cup of some sort like angus says. it will def take it up but it will kind of clog up the cup but 30 seconds on some already cleaned floor brings it up like new. The cup will work the whole time your doing it.


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

One final approach. This is also what I do.


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## BKM Resilient (May 2, 2009)

4" razor scraper for small areas

Scrape-Away plate on a floor sander/buffer for large areas

Either way you sand the HELL out of everything with the heaviest grit sandpaper you can find AFTER there's very little left but residue and dust. 

ALWAYS spill some hot water on a test patch and give it 20 minutes to soak. Cheaper adhesives will totally melt and then scrape off with almost no effort. The better and best adhesives are much more resistant. Where this system works you want to TIME the dissolving, scraping and thorough mopping/rinsing so you're right on top of it scraping when it's soft and easy. Leave the puddle too long and it gets stupid messy. 2-3 floor fans should dry it up. Never hurts to run a heavy grit sander over the slab once it's good and dry. 

Good luck.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> Use a diamond grinding cup of some sort like angus says. it will def take it up but it will kind of clog up the cup but 30 seconds on some already cleaned floor brings it up like new. The cup will work the whole time your doing it.


On a side note but related. If you are tiling a floor that had vinyl, once you tear out the 1/4 underlayment the Diamond grinder will make short work of the glue residue and any staples that happen to be still there. MUCH FASTER than trying to pull or pound them, and it wont dig in to the subfloor.


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## kallo07 (Jan 5, 2011)

Floormasta78 said:


> One final approach. This is also what I do.


Where is the credit? I get sir for sharing my secrets with you!!!!:thumbsup:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

charimon said:


> On a side note but related. If you are tiling a floor that had vinyl, once you tear out the 1/4 underlayment the Diamond grinder will make short work of the glue residue and any staples that happen to be still there. MUCH FASTER than trying to pull or pound them, and it wont dig in to the subfloor.


Yep - learned this back in my retail days getting stuck on trailer park duty. I swear those things are made out of staples, cardboard, and hope. Way back then they used to carpet the floors and drop the walls on top...and they didn't use tack strip. There are 1,716,492 staples in the average 3br lol. We would get sent in to install vinyl. Three days later with bloody fingers and less pride than we started with the nightmare would subside. Until next week....


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

At A penny a staple to remove that's .......wow.


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