# Butt Splices,,,,are working great



## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

Hey all,
Just wanted to update you all, 
Some of you may know that i have made my own butt splices, and they are working great, they are saving time, material (rock), mud and its creating a very clean and prime product.
The cost to create each one is approx $2.00 rough and dirty, but the savings is approx $10.00 for each one used. The average house we will use approx 10.

J


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## Brocktologist (Sep 16, 2008)

Where are the pics or are they on your website? 
I was a skeptic at first but I think your onto something if it doesn't take too long to build. :thumbsup:


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## nEighter (Nov 24, 2008)

interested... got pics?


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

i will get some up...starting a job tomorrow and will be using them...


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

I'm trying my first on a job now.. Ever used them w/ 5/8 firerock? Several screws later, the first one looks ok, nice recess

I think I need to wet the face before pulling up the butt:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

u dont need to wet the board, just make sure that you are away from the truss ( split the diffrence between the truss or joist with the joint) when you are screwing the butt joint, push up with one hand and screw with the other. if you dont have an auto feed gun then, start from one side of the joint and put screws in lightly, and as you get closer to the other side of the butt joint you are screwing in all the way, then go back and hit the first screws again to suck them in. The odd time you will have a bit of a problem with the joint being sucked up, and the 5/8 or 1/2 rock wanting to break or pop. move your screws away approc 1" from the joint. and slowly suck the joint in.
I am able to tape, coat with 10" and coat with 12", sand and done....the box's are run on #1 setting on the 10" and # 3 on the 12".
once in a blue moon i will go back and feel the joint....sometimes if a stud is crown'd you will have to hit the joint again with the 12" on a 4 setting. When coating the butts you do not have to feather out the joint. simply run the box down the center. DONE


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

Ahh one more thing....when you install the butt splices, they should be 52" to 54" long...this will enable you to anchor the butt splice to each adjacent row, which in turn makes for a stronger joint. If you look back at the butt joint, you will notice that it is up considerably to the adjacent row. Shoot a couple of screws on the adjacent row, to level out the joint. Once you put them in you will see exactly what i am talking about. This also works the same for walls...
I will be taking my camera to work on monday, and will document with some pics for you all.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

I can build 40 an hour.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

i have the pics, but am short on patience for the website to download them....i will get it though


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

Still working well, and would not do another job without them


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## DuFast (Dec 15, 2010)

I want to see pictures.


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## MERL LARSON (Jul 5, 2011)

Sorry to be ignorant,can anyone tell me what a butt splice is?


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

I'm sure all the pictures will explain it for you...:whistling


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## MERL LARSON (Jul 5, 2011)

*Merl Larson Washroom Accessory Specialist*



J F said:


> I'm sure all the pictures will explain it for you...:whistling


Saw your websites and your work looks greta.
I am not a drywaller and was just interested to know what a butt splice was. I was particularly interested in your comment that these cost $10.00 and you have made your own for $2.00.

I still dont know what they are and what they look like.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

How wide are your butt boards? What depth?


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I've been preaching Butt Boards here for a year or two.

I finally just gave up, and am content to let people fight the Butt Bumps all they want.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

MERL LARSON said:


> Sorry to be ignorant,can anyone tell me what a butt splice is?


*Click here* :thumbsup:

-Paul


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Willie T said:


> I've been preaching here for a year or two.


Yep. :laughing:


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Sir Mixalot said:


> *Click here* :thumbsup:
> 
> -Paul


I find I like a few more screws than shown in the picture.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Willie T said:


> I find I like a few more screws than shown in the picture.


I was thinking the samething when I saw that Willie. :thumbsup:

-Paul


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

So the top of the butt board is screwed to the top board to make it stiff:whistling
Do you back butter the butt boards:blink:


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

It's funny cause your gut says that would be a week point but if it is taped correctly it would be quite strong. I like it.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I was lost before the pics now I'm confused:blink: . How is this different from using a 1X3 back there If the board is screwed to the bottom plate and the top of the stick is screwed to the board on top it should be stiff ??


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I was lost before the pics now I'm confused:blink: . How is this different from using a 1X3 back there If the board is screwed to the bottom plate and the top of the stick is screwed to the board on top it should be stiff ??


With the strip of 1/8" on each edge it creates a recess to suck the butt joint up so its like taping a taper. Makes a super flat ceiling or wall and saves time finishing.


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## MikeGC (Dec 6, 2008)

Awesome. The butt board video really makes clear. Im gonna try it.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

MikeGC said:


> Awesome. The butt board video really makes clear. Im gonna try it.


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## smuhhh (Dec 30, 2010)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Do you back butter the butt boards:blink:


Say that three times fast. :laughing:


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## BrandConst (May 9, 2011)

From the pic that Mixalot posted, it looks like your running the joint wild and using a peice of deadwood...is this right? Seems like an inferior application if you ask me. Yhat joint would crack in no time. If I were to hang a picture and nail anywhere close to this joint, it would crack.


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

Ah, you misspelled "Butt" at the top of the page.
Steve



Sir Mixalot said:


> *Click here* :thumbsup:
> 
> -Paul


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

I do alot of small drywall patches using the galvanized steel & mesh patches. Wait until someone tries to put a nail into one of those?:jester:
Steve



BrandConst said:


> From the pic that Mixalot posted, it looks like your running the joint wild and using a peice of deadwood...is this right? Seems like an inferior application if you ask me. Yhat joint would crack in no time. If I were to hang a picture and nail anywhere close to this joint, it would crack.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

BrandConst said:


> From the pic that Mixalot posted, it looks like your running the joint wild and using a peice of deadwood...is this right? Seems like an inferior application if you ask me. Yhat joint would crack in no time. If I were to hang a picture and nail anywhere close to this joint, it would crack.


That is what I was saying about your gut instinct.

But think about when you are remodeling and you need to tear out some sheetrock. Every time I tear out sheetrock, if the seems are taped correctly, the actual rock will break before the seem does.

This all makes sense because if you think about it a butt joint would be more likely to crack on a stud or framing member because that wood is constantly expanding and contracting. All that time taking that sheetrock for a ride.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

> stp57 said:
> 
> 
> > Ah, you misspelled "Butt" at the top of the page.
> ...


:confused1:

-Paul


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## stp57 (Dec 12, 2007)

*Buttboard is a drywall backing system
that reduces but joint installation and
finishing costs.
*



Sir Mixalot said:


> :confused1:
> 
> -Paul


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Sir Mixalot said:


> :confused1:
> 
> -Paul





stp57 said:


> *Buttboard is a drywall backing system*
> *that reduces but joint installation and*
> *finishing costs.*


Well, I didn't start this thread. :no:
Take up any spelling issue's with the thread title with the OP. :whistling...:laughing:

-Paul


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

Sorry guys been really busy...for thoes who dont know and thanks to Paul, for the pictures, the butt splices work exactly as shown, but what it does not show is that the tow edges of the boards are raised by 1/8" this will allow the butt end of the sheest to concave, like a bevel joint. This makes it easier to tape and fill. Less mud is used to fill the joint, and you are less likley to have a crack form. As for the screws, we put them every 4" or so, but have to sink them in slowly to start.. to much of a curve on the board will cause the drywall not to hold...1/8" is max, we like to use 3/16" As for the cost, it costs us $9 for a sheet of 1/2" osb, and we rip them down to 44" long and 52" long by 5 7/8" wide. we take the table saw and rip an angle to the center of approx 5 degrees.

We are manufacturing them as we speek, and it is working awesome...i am working on pictures and will post them as i get them collected.

Although these are not new, to drywall, they have gone dormant for quite some time, and some of the drywallers are to old school to see the benefit from this system. We save materials, and time on the finishing. We have less call backs, and better success with the terrible quality of lumber they use now


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

BrandConst said:


> From the pic that Mixalot posted, it looks like your running the joint wild and using a peice of deadwood...is this right? Seems like an inferior application if you ask me. Yhat joint would crack in no time. If I were to hang a picture and nail anywhere close to this joint, it would crack.


What is going to make it crack...say you nail on a truss as per usuall drywall installation...the truss moves up and down...that will cause the joint to weekend, that would be 100% movement...no take the drywall and run past the truss say half way between the truss's, put in the butt splice and continue on...this will cause only 50% movement...less chance of cracking...
as far as pictures, its a crap shoot if they even hit the thing....and thats beyond our control.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

CrpntrFrk said:


> That is what I was saying about your gut instinct.
> 
> But think about when you are remodeling and you need to tear out some sheetrock. Every time I tear out sheetrock, if the seems are taped correctly, the actual rock will break before the seem does.
> 
> This all makes sense because if you think about it a butt joint would be more likely to crack on a stud or framing member because that wood is constantly expanding and contracting. All that time taking that sheetrock for a ride.


no take into consideration that you do not have to cut back to a stud...you save time and money...and you get a faster repair process


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Take some video or pictures of you using it please.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

I have pic and video on my computer, but am not sure how to post them on the site


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

JHC said:


> Take some video or pictures of you using it please.


Sir Mixalot put up a link and on that link there is a website:whistling go there and on the left find videos and click the one that says BUTTBOARDS:clap:


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