# Cracks in your sheetrock in new construction?



## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Rio said:


> Not to mention so much faster to install and so much easier to work with along with it being easier to train someone to do it.





The first two I'd say are a given. The third one I'M not sure of. I will say this though. Take say a "conventional " 5' x 7' bathroom.it can be hung in blueboard and a two coat veneer system applied much quicker than even a level 3 or 4 drywall install. And light years faster than a level 5 . The added perk,no banding of paint sheen and the insidious drywall dust is a nonissue.


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## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

fjn said:


> The first two I'd say are a given. The third one I'M not sure of. I will say this though. Take say a "conventional " 5' x 7' bathroom.it can be hung in blueboard and a two coat veneer system applied much quicker than even a level 3 or 4 drywall install. And light years faster than a level 5 . The added perk,no banding of paint sheen and the insidious drywall dust is a nonissue.


I have never actually seen the application of veneer plaster in person, tried it a few times myself, but can someone who only occasionally does veneer plaster actually do a 5'x7' bathroom solo? I've done one fireplace feature and a few test walls in my house, but I can't see myself getting to the point of doing a bathroom solo. I can however do drywall solo no problem. I hate drywall so much I'd invest the time if it was practical, loved the finish of veneer plaster.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Philament said:


> I have never actually seen the application of veneer plaster in person, tried it a few times myself, but can someone who only occasionally does veneer plaster actually do a 5'x7' bathroom solo? I've done one fireplace feature and a few test walls in my house, but I can't see myself getting to the point of doing a bathroom solo. I can however do drywall solo no problem. I hate drywall so much I'd invest the time if it was practical, loved the finish of veneer plaster.





Sure,one guy can easily do a 5' x 7' bathroom by their self. Actually,in a room that size,with two guys it gets a tad crowded.The beauty of veneer plaster,it is easy to do one section at a time,for example,the ceiling,then one wall at a time. Unlike drywall,there is no feathering.If for example,you only got half the ceiling done with the finish coat,you jump back 4"-6" where plaster is full thickness,take your trowel on edge,score the finish and peel the tapered edge off.When you pick back up,you work to the full edge,reason being,you cannot feather over set plaster. Of course,you need to score and peel when plaster is still wet and not set.

Best places to learn / practice are closets. Try to get them as smooth as a parlor,eventually you will get good at it like anything else.


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## Plans by Marcy (May 12, 2016)

@FJN . ref # 14.

The detail I drew was more to counteract sliding (shear) forces that causes stress on the sheet rock as the building settles, or perhaps during high winds --- for whatever reason there is movement in the building.:blink:

The detail you showed with your link applies to camber in the bottom chord. The truss fabricators try to counteract deflection using camber to make up the difference. But lumber being what it is doesn't always cooperate with the engineering calculations and can cup too much, or deflect too far if loaded improperly. You can get a better truss by specifying a minimum deflection of L/240, or better yet L/360, when your put your truss order in at the fabricator, even if you don't intend to add storage weight capacity to your trusses.

You can nail or screw your truss to the wall to pull it down. 
The detail I drew wouldn't necessarily interfere with with the truss/wall connection. However, you should still use nailing blocks, nailed to the top of the wall to secure the sheet rock to, staying several inches (preferably at least 8") away from the wall/truss intersections to prevent the push and pull of the sheer forces as they apply through your wall finish.

We are talking two different applications for two different sets of circumstances. :thumbup:


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Plans by Marcy said:


> @FJN . ref # 14.
> 
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Actually what we are talking about is the proper way to affix drywall to framing and bottom cords of trusses in particular. Most of the time when one references new home / foundation settling ,they are confusing it with lumber shrinkage. In the best case scenario,lumber comes from the mill at 19% moisture content (you can pay a premium for 15 %) but a few rains and your money is wasted.Even so,with no added moisture picked up during construction,the average two story platformed building will shrink a minimum of 3/4" as it moves to 8-9 % moisture.

As you can see from this article and many others,nailing or screwing bottom cords to partition plates are a no no unless it is accomplished with the proper hardware to allow movement.



https://books.google.com/books?id=i...m chord of trusses to partition plate&f=false


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

blacktop said:


> If your foundation settles you got problems !




Is that not the truth ! If your foundation is settling ,someone dropped the ball big time. Around here (N.W.In.) performing a soil boring prior to construction is becoming much more prevalent.The added cost associated is way cheaper than the cost of litigation and remediation. In some subdivisions,in order to cover all bases,the builders virtually soil test every lot prior to construction.


As I previously mentioned,the term building settling is more often incorrectly applied. This article explains in detail the nuances of wood shrinkage. The authors article that appeared in FHB in 1993 is only available to subscribers. This one is informative in it's own right.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Oops ! Forgot the link.

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/wood_shrink.htm


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## Plans by Marcy (May 12, 2016)

@ FJN

I took this excerpt directly from the article that you posted the link for, and is the basis of this entire conversation. The author, no doubtfully more learned than me, specs 16" as the distance between truss and the first nail in the sheet rock, but sometimes when trusses are running parallel to your wall, job site circumstances may cause this dimension to vary.:whistling


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Plans by Marcy said:


> @ FJN
> 
> I took this excerpt directly from the article that you posted the link for, and is the basis of this entire conversation. The author, no doubtfully more learned than me, specs 16" as the distance between truss and the first nail in the sheet rock, but sometimes when trusses are running parallel to your wall, job site circumstances may cause this dimension to vary.:whistling
> 
> View attachment 311193




That is great. The author offered that method lastly. If it was the preferred method,it would have been listed first and foremost,not as an afterthought or less than preferred method. You can go through the machinations of installing all the blocking............or you can do it the faster,easier and more mainstream way with clips.

While you were busy circling the article,did you inadvertently forget to circle the last sentence ? The one that states "never rigidly attach trusses to partitions;this could induce bending forces trusses weren't designed to;or cause partitions to be lifted off the floor". Or did you intentionally omit it ? Seeing that you stated in your post # 24 "you can nail or screw your trusses to the wall to pull it down".


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## Plans by Marcy (May 12, 2016)

@FJN

Many, many years ago, I designed trusses. Sheetrock cracks were a nightmare, and the trusses were always blamed until the fix I initially posted was introduced. Admittedly, I have never set a truss in my life, so I am sure there are applications on the job I am not familiar with and I'm sure that field practices have changed since 2004, when I last worked as a truss designer.

Having said that, Simpson has come up with a variety of ways to secure trusses to bearings when the need arises for whatever reason. I took a screen shot of a few of those methods. Non-bearing walls and bearing interior bearing walls are two different animals, but when cases of permanent camber or deflection become evident sometimes remedies need to be applied. Securing a truss to an interior BEARING wall below was a remedy we used way back when. We always advised our clients to stay away from interior non-bearing ways to keep from interfering with the transferal of forces through the truss webs/chords. 

Another remedy I didn't mention was attaching a straight 2x board to the bottom chord of a truss to provide a level surface to counteract permanent bows in the truss chords (similar to splicing repairs used for cracked or broken chords). 

I did not overlook the last sentence, when I posted the clip of the article you posted because I was trying to draw attention to the initial diagram I'd posted to clarify the drawing introducing this conversation from the get-go. 









I'll bet you offer a lively debate when the topic is politics, huh? :laughing:

That's cool. Communication is a good teacher. Happy Memorial Day!


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Plans by Marcy said:


> @FJN
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Actually,I never debate politics. I have no interest in it for several reasons. First, ALL politicians share a common thread that runs through them all.........bar none. They all make promises they have no chance to deliver upon. Secondly,the people that cast the votes do not determine the election. The people who count the votes determine the election. If anyone doubts that,think back to Bush and Gore and Florida. Bob Dylan warned us of that decades ago,we had an object lesson presented in the aforementioned election.


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## Plans by Marcy (May 12, 2016)

There may be multiple methods of remediation in the world of construction, but when it come to politics,  I do believe that the people's voices could be heard :clap: IF :whistling we ditched the delegates altogether, and counted the votes in real time, backed up by paper ballots, counted with two witnesses/talliers, all recorded on video with a speaker calling the votes as they are pulled in each prescient nationwide, making it difficult to alter the final count. :thumbup: 

As a prerequisite to voting. Mandatory registration obtained using photo/citizenship ID, and universal registrations tossing Party affiliation (another useful tool to divide the people)must be implemented. Photo ID, matching the registration number (the norm of the day) to be shown at the polling station. One vote. One person. Period. 

.... just the way, I'd handle that scenario, if it were left to me. 

All that would be left to worry about are Candidates worthy of office.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Inner10 said:


> Around here ceilings get strapped.


That should be a nation wide code here! The T&M Wouldn't add up to much. And The finished product would come out much nicer!!:thumbsup:


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

Part of the problem is that trusses have always been over engineered to the point that they shrink/grow/rise violently without any control. A weaker truss can be managed in these conditions easier. I used to see all trusses made from #1 1150? stress tested yellow pine, whereas today, it's all a much softer/weaker everyday spruce.


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## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Railman said:


> Part of the problem is that trusses have always been over engineered to the point that they shrink/grow/rise violently without any control. A weaker truss can be managed in these conditions easier. I used to see all trusses made from #1 1150? stress tested yellow pine, whereas today, it's all a much softer/weaker everyday spruce.


Not too many years ago [around here] Truss companies suggested no bracing and no nailing trusses to bearing walls . They wanted the trusses to float. What a mess that was.

They have changed their tune since then. Now they require the trusses braced in a certain matter. It's In the specs . Like a framer told me once . If the trusses are braced to where If one wants to move they all have to move ,,They stay stable enough to not cause a big issue. 
Since the bracing took place I've seen a huge decrease in truss lift call backs. 

I still dislike factory trusses very much tho!! I've always believed the metal stamps contributes to the movement problem too. Hot attic/cold attic. Rise/fall .


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

When in earthquake country drywall is safer than plaster.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Californiadecks said:


> When in earthquake country drywall is safer than plaster.




Call me a woosp,but I don't want to live in an earthquake zone or in tornado alley.:no:


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

fjn said:


> Call me a woosp,but I don't want to live in an earthquake zone or in tornado alley.:no:


Been here 50 years and I've never lost any property or know anyone that has, let alone get hurt.


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