# QuietRock



## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

Hello CT Members,

A contract that I have been working on, the HO has done some research and has requested that QuietRock be used for the soundproofing. What are your guys thoughts on this product. Here in Vancouver, the price of a 4x8 sheet is 65 dollars. Is it worth the money? There will be an additional 12 pot lights installed as well.This in my opinion will compromise the quality of sound transmission through to the basement.

Resilient Channel has also been suggested but it has such a high failure rate from what I have seen.

Thoughts.


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## Splinter (Apr 5, 2005)

suggest some wall sconces to the homeowner in lieu of can lights.


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

Will it dramatically reduce the effectiveness?


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

The HO is the boss, but if they're asking your opinion maybe remind them that you want a lot of weight and these specialty drywall panels generally lack the mass we want. Standard 5/8" drywall is cheap and heavy and can be field damped. So you could build a much heavier (and therefore higher performance ) partition.


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

that makes sense. They are adamant about using this product but with adding all the cans to the ceiling, it kind of diminishes the affect of the quiet rock.


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## Tylerwalker32 (Jun 27, 2011)

I believe around a can light you would make a housing around it. I'm sure they give specs on the products website.


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I believe around a can light you would make a housing around it. I'm sure they give specs on the products website.


You build a box of Quiet Rock around the can light, and seal it with a special sealant or putty. The product has an internal membrane that is claimed to change sound waves into heat, quite different than just using mass to block the sound.


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## Drywalller (Jan 2, 2007)

You should check into the green glue product first I think it will be cheaper and maybe better product.
Here is link http://www.greengluecompany.com/


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## PrecisionTaping (Jan 8, 2012)

Quiet Rock is an amazing product! And if the owner wants it, then go for it! One sheet of Quiet Rock is the equivalent of 8 stacked sheets of 5/8.
There is no comparison! If they are adamant about sound proofing there simply is no other way to go other than QuietRock in my opinion.
And like previous guys mentioned about the pot lights, just build boxes around them using the quiet rock. Charge accordingly.


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Quietrock should be installed using Greenglue to achieve max benefit (screws also) . I would recommend a thick plywood on walls and ceilings 1rst , then glue and screw. We found that a cordless sawzall works pretty good for cutting it. Yes build boxes around light fixtures if they must have them ( would make sure fixture specs allow).


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

Sheets ordered. Will B installed by the weekend. I'll let u know how it turns out.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

After hanging 100 sheets of quiet rock about a year and a half ago I learned there are other options for soundproofing as Ted White states.

The quiet rock I hung was $100 for a 4x8. It was basically a sheet of metal sandwiched between two sheets of 1/4'' And we had that special caulk that was like bubble gum. We used jig saws and circular saws for all cutting. Forget routers. :stuart:

And it was a ***** to hang. The other 900 sheets in that house was alot easier. :1eye:


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

PrecisionTaping said:


> One sheet of Quiet Rock is the equivalent of 8 sheets of 5/8".


Marketing hype with no data ever offered nor even a theoretical explanation. You will always spend more money, and have lower performance with pre-damped board.


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## PrecisionTaping (Jan 8, 2012)

Ted White said:


> Marketing hype with no data ever offered nor even a theoretical explanation. You will always spend more money, and have lower performance with pre-damped board.


Mike Holmes says so.
Argue with him! Study's have shown. And I was wrong. It was the equivalent of 8 standard sheets of drywall. Not 5/8. You want data. Look at the spec sheets at http://www.quietrock.com/




How's that for theory!


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

*Wow*

I am not sure what you are talking about TED!!!. Just completed 100sq ft of ceiling. First and formost, Roxul Safe and Sound was used in the joist cavities. Everything then sealed off and QuietRock applied. Taped and mudded one coat...

All I have to Say is WOW. What a dramatic difference. It is absolutely astonishing at how the noise transmission has been cut not by half, but by attest 70 percent. This is a truly fantastic product. Absolutly incredible and worth every penny.

I have now ordered more due to the fabulous results. The HO is ecstatic with the results, now purchased another 5k in ceiling QuietRock to do the rest of the home as specced by the HO.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Highly recommend this product. It scores easily and was a pleasure to install. No different than standard gypsum board that we normally install. I am not sure why you had so many issues with it and had trouble with the installation of it. Knife and a straight edge and off you go..

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Mike, I'm glad it worked out for you. :clap:
I only used the type that had metal in it. Thats what the builder wanted. It had a higher rating and of course higher cost.
Think there was like 3 or 4 types. Did you use the caulk ?


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Mike- said:


> I am not sure what you are talking about TED!!!. Just completed 100sq ft of ceiling. First and formost, Roxul Safe and Sound was used in the joist cavities. Everything then sealed off and QuietRock applied. Taped and mudded one coat...
> 
> All I have to Say is WOW. What a dramatic difference. It is absolutely astonishing at how the noise transmission has been cut not by half, but by attest 70 percent. This is a truly fantastic product. Absolutly incredible and worth every penny.
> 
> ...


 Tou didnt get same stuff I got if youre cittin with a knife:no: They must have changed....again. The stuff with cement board on back is the best IMO. I dont think it is made anymore. You should snap a couple shots and show board and install:thumbsup:


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## PrecisionTaping (Jan 8, 2012)

Big Shoe said:


> Mike, I'm glad it worked out for you. :clap:
> I only used the type that had metal in it. Thats what the builder wanted. It had a higher rating and of course higher cost.
> Think there was like 3 or 4 types. Did you use the caulk ?





iDAHOchris said:


> Tou didnt get same stuff I got if youre cittin with a knife:no: They must have changed....again. The stuff with cement board on back is the best IMO. I dont think it is made anymore. You should snap a couple shots and show board and install:thumbsup:


For some reason, everyone assumes quiet rock is the hardest thing in the world to cut. Dont get the thickest kind they have! lol. You need a friggen table saw to cut that stuff. 
Use there EZ-Snap Quiet Rock. Its actually easier than regular drywall to cut. Just score and snap.
http://www.quietrock.com/drywall/ez-snap.html

Quiet Rock I believe has a total of 5 different kinds of noise dampening drywall.
http://www.quietrock.com/drywall/special-panels.html
Check out their website for more info.

*Glad everything worked out Mike!*


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## Mike- (Aug 20, 2011)

Thanks guys. Your advice was so valuable in my opinion. 

Yes I also did use the caulking to seal up any air leaks. 

Now there is one problem. Now I need the HO to wake up today to open the house. Laughing. 

Plz don't sleep in.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Mike Holmes says so.
> Argue with him! Study's have shown. It was the equivalent of 8 standard sheets of drywall. Not 5/8. You want data. Look at the spec sheets. How's that for theory!


There’s no data there to support the claim. I’d love to see the data after all these years of claiming this. The fact is there is no data. Why? Because in a contest, if we’re looking at broad spectrum noise, the heavier solution automatically has the upper hand. No, one sheet does not equal 8. Sorry.



Mike- said:


> I am not sure what you are talking about TED!!!. Just completed 100sq ft of ceiling. First and formost, Roxul Safe and Sound was used in the joist cavities. Everything then sealed off and QuietRock applied. Taped and mudded one coat...


If they were happy with that, they would have been happier using standard cheaper fiberglass, standard 5/8” drywall and a field applied damping compound. This would have been a cheaper, more massive and higher performance solution.

Fortunately there’s laboratory data to set us straight. And remember, "lightweight Soundproofing" is an oxymoron


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Ted White said:


> Single 5/8" drywall has insufficient mass to stop much. Also, you might look to save your clients some cash and simply spec standard fiberglass insulation rather than a specialized insulation that does no more than the cheapest fiberglass you can get at Home Depot.
> 
> Interestingly, sealing is far from the most important component. Sealing is important, but a wall can have a surprising number of penetrations before performance suffers. See the NRC research with outlets.


Ted I added it up once and safe n sound is over 2.5x the mass of fiberglass and it costs 60 cents a square instead of 40. Now I don't have any test evidence but I know mass helps with sound deadening...but I'm willing to switch. :thumbsup:

Also in my application we are looking for sound dissipation in the room and if you mass-up the interior too much you make the room sound really hot, which requires you to add additional dissipation inside the room.

I still stand be my sealing practices, play some music then poke a hole through a wall...


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

I've tested the seal issue at length personally at Orfield Laboratories in 2006. The results were consistent with the NRC studies in Montreal.

Mass / density within the wall cavity is not a goal, and in fact as I said, it's counter to what we are looking for. See the NRC reports IR-761 and IR-691 for the raw data. If you had a million dollars to spend on a build, you would still use the cheapest fiberglass available. It's best for bass.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Ted White said:


> I've tested the seal issue at length personally at Orfield Laboratories in 2006. The results were consistent with the NRC studies in Montreal.
> 
> Mass / density within the wall cavity is not a goal, and in fact as I said, it's counter to what we are looking for. See the NRC reports IR-761 and IR-691 for the raw data. If you had a million dollars to spend on a build, you would still use the cheapest fiberglass available. It's best for bass.


In that case next job is getting fiberglass. :thumbsup:


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

I like the paper faced insulation. Staple to joists or studs. Makes things tidy. Also, another counter-intuitive aspect: You get most of the goodness from the first 50% of the stud or joist cavity being filled. Filling to 100% doesn't even produce an audible difference. So we spec R13 in walls and R19 in the ceiling.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Ted White said:


> I like the paper faced insulation. Staple to joists or studs. Makes things tidy. Also, another counter-intuitive aspect: You get most of the goodness from the first 50% of the stud or joist cavity being filled. Filling to 100% doesn't even produce an audible difference. So we spec R13 in walls and R19 in the ceiling.


Can't get it here, unfaced batts only. Closest place you can find paper faced is new york.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Really?? No faced insulation in CA?


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Ted White said:


> Really?? No faced insulation in CA?


Last time it was here was in the 70's I believe...you only see it inold homes. All exterior walls here require 6mil poly vapour barrier. But if I drive 1 hour south to Ogdensburg NY they only stock paper faced.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Good to know. Thanks


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

We used to insulate a lot of interior walls for sound dampening. We would hang one side first and then insulate, stapling/stuffing it to the backside. No paper needed.

My guys used to always cry about itching.:laughing: I know it affects some guys worst than others.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

We just have to avoid any compaction.


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