# Sagging front porch



## ron schenker (Dec 11, 2005)

A friendly retired client of mine has some porch issues that need some fixing. It's about 20'x5' concrete base slab about 6" thick. Shortly after it was poured it cracked in the middle and dropped as much as 2" in some areas. It's wedged solid now and hasn't moved at all in 12 years. The roof overhangs it, so water penetration isn't an issue. What I'd like to do is build forms around the perimeter,rough up the surface,rent a mixer, pour concrete, level and smooth out and Bob's your uncle. I'm not a pro at this, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. H.O. says one day he would like to enclose it and turn it into a sunroom.


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## steveo12 (Jun 3, 2006)

I'm no expert but i'd suggest removing some concrete from where the cracks are on either side atleast, if you leave it and just go over it it may well do the same in a years time or so.

I'd take a few feet away from either side of the crack (better ask an expert on that point)

You'll need to go a little higher than the level it is now cause when you get to the edges there will be more chance of the concrete breaking away.

I've worked with concrete for about a week so thats what i'd do.

i'd also think there would be some restrictions for using that as a base for a "sunroom"

your option is a quick fix but may do the trick.


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## bob the builder (Oct 6, 2005)

ron schenker said:


> A friendly retired client of mine has some porch issues that need some fixing. It's about 20'x5' concrete base slab about 6" thick. Shortly after it was poured it cracked in the middle and dropped as much as 2" in some areas. It's wedged solid now and hasn't moved at all in 12 years. The roof overhangs it, so water penetration isn't an issue. What I'd like to do is build forms around the perimeter,rough up the surface,rent a mixer, pour concrete, level and smooth out and Bob's your uncle. I'm not a pro at this, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. H.O. says one day he would like to enclose it and turn it into a sunroom.


What about drilling some holes and mudjacking the slab back to where you want it???

Bob


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## Brickie (Jun 15, 2006)

Tear it out & have it done right.


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

Ron,

A 6" thick slab that cracked and dropped 2" in a short period of time may have problems that could haunt you if you were to pour over it.

A picture would be a quick way to asses the problem.

This slab is on a foundation that goes down below frost on three sides? ( the two short sides and the one long side that is away from the house) and, is against the house exterior wall on the other long side?

What are the frost walls made of?

Are the three sides on the frost walls still at the level they should be?

Is it the side against the house that is settled? Creating a bowl against the house?

How cracked is the slab?

What shape is the slab concrete in? Salt damage? soft or chalky? 

Are the frost walls cracked or moved?

Does the slab over hang the frost walls on the three sides?

Does the roof rest on the slab?

What is your impression of why the slab failed?

What is the grade like around the porch? 

What is the step off the porch like in height?

What height step is it out of the house onto the porch?

Some questions!


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## ron schenker (Dec 11, 2005)

Sorry for the slow reply, but after reading Denick's post I suffered a nervous breakdown Just kidding...great investigative questions that need to be answered, thanks guys. I'll have to go back there today and look a little deeper and get some pictures:sweatdrop:


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## ron schenker (Dec 11, 2005)

There's no foundation..Slab on ground. 33x7=231 sq.ft.


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## ron schenker (Dec 11, 2005)

Guys..do these pictures help?


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

Ron,

What I think I see in the pictures is, the far end seems higher and it seems going down until about the shoes. Then it seems to be level as it gets closer. This is by the brick work. 

What are the spots on the wall all along the lenght? 

Is the line on the door step where the concrete used to be?

Is there any pitch from the house out right now?

Is there only the one major crack in the middle?

Are those saw cuts on either side of the door?

Are the saw cuts cracked down through the slab?

Is the outside long edge level or is it also up and down like the back edge?


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

:w00t: :w00t: :laughing: Nick when you were a toddler you must have driven your parents crazy with all the questions :blink: :laughing:


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## Shanklesbuilder (Jun 28, 2006)

Find someone in your area that does presure injected grout. It is fairly new but I have seen it work wonders. It works best on slabs. They come in and drill holes then pump grout in to raise it. You can always do a concrete dressing like ardex over the top to hide the cracks and holes. The company in knoxville is slabjacker, they can work wonders.


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## Dave-Raleigh (Jun 12, 2006)

Personally I think it was originally poured that way. The crack is incidental to the irregular surface.

I have seen first hand where a section of concrete drive was 'over tooled' and it ended up about 1" lower than the surrounding driveway. It wasn't noticable at the time of the pour.Everytime it rained I had this 6' diameter puddle right in the middle of the concrete apron. I can remember telling my neighbor a the time to quit messing with the section because 'I wasn't married to it'. The rest of use wanted to get done and drink beer so we didn't spend as much time on out parts.

I'm guessing that when it was originally finished someone was in the house and spent extra time smoothing out the concrete right in front of the door. It shrunk (actually more compacted) as it dried and the homeowner just doesn't remember back that far.


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## ron schenker (Dec 11, 2005)

Update: As usual the HO wanted to go the cheaper route so we decided to frame the whole slab. We used PT wood, PL Premium, Tapcons and 3/4" T&G ext. grade plywood. Ripped the 
2x4's(16 o.c.) down for a proper slope away from the house for drainage. Glued and screwed plywood, troweled on leveling compound. Primed, then troweled on textured "quartz" topcoat twice and sealed twice.Looks beautiful and you'd swear it was concrete. Very solid, easy to clean, nonslip, and 1/3 of the cost of redoing the concrete, which would have been the "right way"


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