# Repointing Brick



## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

We have a new job coming up doing some repointing in certain areas and I found some new tools I have never seen before. Instead of a diamond blade its a diamond bit. I have been looking for something easier because we have to get in edges underneath cap stones and this looks like it will do the trick.
anybody have any opinion or used it with good results?
icscompany.net/tuck_point_bit.htm
its late 50's cement grout not soft lime grout we will be dealing with


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

interesting


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

lukachuki said:


> interesting


very just wondering if its worth the $$


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## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

I used these which are a similar idea and are usefull and only cost about $10.


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

gevensen said:


> We have a new job coming up doing some repointing in certain areas and I found some new tools I have never seen before. Instead of a diamond blade its a diamond bit. I have been looking for something easier because we have to get in edges underneath cap stones and this looks like it will do the trick.
> anybody have any opinion or used it with good results?
> icscompany.net/tuck_point_bit.htm
> its late 50's cement grout not soft lime grout we will be dealing with


The bits might work for a small amount of work or for a tight spot as you describe. I can't imagine they would be easier than a diamond blade on a grinder for a large job.


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## avguy (Feb 8, 2010)

stuart45 said:


> I used these which are a similar idea and are usefull and only cost about $10.
> View attachment 45058


Are those just steel, or is there abrasive involved?


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## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

Those are just steel.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Bits like that would certainly be good to have in the toolbox, but you'd go broke relying only on them. Diamond blade in a grinder will run circles around them.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I looks like a quality tool, but IMO, diamond blades and short stroke air chisels are the way to go. These guys make some of the finest - Be forewarned, it's like collecting festool :laughing:

http://www.trowandholden.com/store/agora.cgi?product=cat4


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

superseal said:


> I looks like a quality tool, but IMO, diamond blades and short stroke air chisels are the way to go. These guys make some of the finest - Be forewarned, it's like collecting festool :laughing:
> 
> http://www.trowandholden.com/store/agora.cgi?product=cat4



I agree, TH makes some good stuff! We had fairly large job that being on the Historic Register meant that we had to hand chisel every inch of mortar out. TH got a ton of our money on that job!


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

appreciating all the input....

while looking up some of the recommendations I saw this at as170.com

looks like it might work well but has a steep price tag but also looks like it will get all my toughest points and can cut out the bricks i need cut out easily

is this overkill?

its a medium size church building with masonry leaking problems, its entirely brick faced double layer, with some cracked bricks and bad mortar

maybe a 4000 sq ft building


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

gevensen said:


> appreciating all the input....
> 
> while looking up some of the recommendations I saw this at as170.com
> 
> ...


We've used that tool. My guys didn't like it so much for the bed joints, but to keep from grinding in to the stretcher side of the unit above or below, they liked it for the head joints. They are pretty expensive as I recall.


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

Supahflid said:


> We've used that tool. My guys didn't like it so much for the bed joints, but to keep from grinding in to the stretcher side of the unit above or below, they liked it for the head joints. They are pretty expensive as I recall.


thats exactly the input I was looking for
I saw the videos of the short stroke chisels and that does seem the best way to go in combination with a diamond blade
one last question, which one of these has worked best for you, these are from the trowel and holden link

TYPE-B PNEUMATIC CARVING TOOL

click for larger image
The Barre Short Stroke Pneumatic Type B Carving Tool is designed to run very smoothly at all power levels. Available in 4 sizes; all are able to provide excellent power for heavier work yet still run smoothly at low power for fine work. All sizes also have a shaped fingertip for comfort and ease of control.
$0.00
Specifications	Bantam	1/2"B 3/4"B 1"B 
Diameter of Piston	15/32"	1/2"	3/4"	1"
Outside Diameter	7/8"	1-1/4"	1-1/2"	1-5/8"
Length Overall	5"	5-3/4"	6-3/4"	7-1/2"
Weight	9 oz.	1lb-9oz.	2lb-12oz.	3lb-8oz.
Size Shank	5/16"	1/2"	1/2"	1/2"
Air Consumption	3 cu. ft.	4 cu. ft.	4 cu. ft.	6 cu. ft.
Select Carving Tool 




Quantity	
Check Out
TYPE-D PNEUMATIC CARVING TOOL

click for larger image
The Barre "Type D" tools provide the maximum power per size ratio available anywhere. By using a longer stroke than our other pneumatic tools, the TYPE D strikes a harder blow over the full power range. Its simple design and rugged construction afford reliable and economical operation on the most demanding work. The 1" and 1-1/4" sizes are suitable for larger roughing applications and offer a shaped fingertip for greater comfort and control during extended use. The 1/2" and 3/4" sizes are perfect for finer jobs where detail and precision are required.
$0.00
Specifications	1/2"D 3/4"D 1"D 1~1/4"D 
Diameter of Piston	9/16"	3/4"	1"	1-1/4"
Outside Diameter	1-1/8"	1-5/16"	1-5/8"	2"
Length Overall	5-3/4"	6-3/4"	7-7/8"	8-3/4"
Weight	1lb-4oz.	1lb-14oz.	3lb-8oz.	5lb-10oz.
Size Shank	1/2"	1/2"	1/2"	5/8"
Air Consumption	3 cu. ft.	4 cu. ft.	6 cu. ft.	8 cu. ft.
Select Carving Tool


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

gevensen said:


> thats exactly the input I was looking for
> I saw the videos of the short stroke chisels and that does seem the best way to go in combination with a diamond blade
> one last question, which one of these has worked best for you, these are from the trowel and holden link
> 
> ...



Remember that we had to hand chisel the joints. We don't use chisels if unless we aren't allowed to grind, so, we have no experience with any bits in a pneumatic apparatus. The one that the guys liked the best was the steel swept cape chisel. Although I believe in some cases, they needed chisels that were a bit pointier. 

http://www.trowandholden.com/store/agora.cgi?p_id=0055&xm=on


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)




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## wesmartyn (Apr 8, 2007)

The pneumatics don't work worth a poop on portland based mortars.
You have to be very careful (even with soft mortars) to not spall off the edges of the surrounding brick.

The ICS masonry chainsaw is AMAZING.


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

wesmartyn said:


> The pneumatics don't work worth a poop on portland based mortars.
> You have to be very careful (even with soft mortars) to not spall off the edges of the surrounding brick.
> 
> The ICS masonry chainsaw is AMAZING.


Tell us more!


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

wesmartyn said:


> The ICS masonry chainsaw is AMAZING.


I have a gas powered Redzaw and man it was a huge letdown. 

It might be operator error or it might be i buy bad chains but I haven't found anything that it does well. I had high hopes of using it to cut nice neat openings in block walls but I find myself using the ts400 stihl instead. Same for any concrete cuts I need to make. I'm not sure what is going on because in principle it is a great idea. The engine runs like a banshee but it just does NOT cut.


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

lukachuki said:


> I have a gas powered Redzaw and man it was a huge letdown.
> 
> It might be operator error or it might be i buy bad chains but I haven't found anything that it does well. I had high hopes of using it to cut nice neat openings in block walls but I find myself using the ts400 stihl instead. Same for any concrete cuts I need to make. I'm not sure what is going on because in principle it is a great idea. The engine runs like a banshee but it just does NOT cut.



So, the idea is to remove mortar for re-pointing with this tool? It looks unwieldy. Is it pretty light?


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

Supahflid said:


> So, the idea is to remove mortar for re-pointing with this tool? It looks unwieldy. Is it pretty light?



:laughing::laughing: Cool hand Luke. I was wondering what a masonry chain saw had to do with re-pointing brick also, but i figured someone else would come by and ask.


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

NJ Brickie said:


> :laughing::laughing: Cool hand Luke. I was wondering what a masonry chain saw had to do with re-pointing brick also, but i figured someone else would come by and ask.


Well Little Joe, that's what I was trying to figure out; I guess I thought wesmartyn was saying he uses a masonry chainsaw. I had never heard of such a thing to remove mortar and then lukachuki posted a pic of one. I think I might be confused. Not the first time I have been confused! :thumbup:arty:


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

NJ Brickie said:


> :laughing::laughing: Cool hand Luke. I was wondering what a masonry chain saw had to do with re-pointing brick also, but i figured someone else would come by and ask.


Now that you mention it, it definitely is a switch of gears. To the original question a masonry chainsaw is not good for re-pointing brick. 

sorry to the OP or sidetracking the thread.....i just jumped all over the comment that wes loved his ICS chainsaw, i guess.


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

lukachuki said:


> Now that you mention it, it definitely is a switch of gears. To the original question a masonry chainsaw is not good for re-pointing brick.
> 
> sorry to the OP or sidetracking the thread.....i just jumped all over the comment that wes loved his ICS chainsaw, i guess.


:thumbsup:

I do wish someone would develop something that is super easy to remove mortar. It takes a lot of work to stay on the guys not to grind in to the courses above and below when removing mortar. We don't have a formal program, but I let them know that they need to take plenty of breaks and to not let their arms get fatigued to the point that they can't control the grinder.


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## wesmartyn (Apr 8, 2007)

Hi sorry guys. I just mentioned the chainsaw because someone had mentioned ICS - nothing to do with mortar joints 

I have used it connected to their hydraulic power pac to cut out large stones on restoration projects. It is great for roughing out.


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## wesmartyn (Apr 8, 2007)

The Arbortech is pretty cool for cutting square openings and mortar joints.

I think it is Australian.


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

wesmartyn said:


> Hi sorry guys. I just mentioned the chainsaw because someone had mentioned ICS - nothing to do with mortar joints
> 
> I have used it connected to their hydraulic power pac to cut out large stones on restoration projects. It is great for roughing out.


Roger that. That makes sense. 

You do a lot of stone laying?


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## wesmartyn (Apr 8, 2007)

A lot of stone yes. Had a great run on institutional restoration work, that dried up and last year was all residential projects. Which was a tough adjustment.

http://www.as170.com/index2.html Arbortech


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## Supahflid (Mar 22, 2011)

wesmartyn said:


> A lot of stone yes. Had a great run on institutional restoration work, that dried up and last year was all residential projects. Which was a tough adjustment.
> 
> http://www.as170.com/index2.html Arbortech



No doubt about a tough adjustment. I hope we don't ever have to deal with homeowners. I hope you are doing well though!!!

Yeah, we've used the Arbortech tool. My guys only like it for head joints.


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## ny mason (Apr 4, 2011)

if it ant broke don't fix it!i have yet to find any thing better then a grinder with a (double) tuck point blade.


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

ny mason said:


> if it ant broke don't fix it!i have yet to find any thing better then a grinder with a (double) tuck point blade.


yeah your right


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

by doble you mean a sandwich blade, 2 blades together, i cant post a link yet


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

gevensen said:


> by doble you mean a sandwich blade, 2 blades together, i cant post a link yet


but this is my 15th post so i should be able to do it next...


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

I may be wrong but I think he is taking about using a tuck pointing blade which is about 3/8th" thick vs. using a regular diamond blade which is around 3/16th" thick.


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## gevensen (Mar 26, 2011)

NJ Brickie said:


> I may be wrong but I think he is taking about using a tuck pointing blade which is about 3/8th" thick vs. using a regular diamond blade which is around 3/16th" thick.


thats what i am using but i would like to try one of these


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## ny mason (Apr 4, 2011)

yes thats ^^ what i was talking about...


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