# Cedar Ceiling Advice Needed



## BigJeff (Nov 10, 2014)

I am about to start a new job of applying 1 x 10 tongue and groove cedar to a cathedral ceiling horizontally. There are actually two ceiling areas from perpendicular rooms that will intersect on each side at the valley rafters. This means I will need to make compound miter cuts at the intersections. the main run of cedar is about 18' long and the side areas are only about 5' long. Is there any hope of gluing the miters and having them last and look good for years or is it hopeless and I should just plan on covering the joint with trim 1 x 3 going up the angles and covering all the joints? Also in the 15' run I will have some butt joints, should I leave a gap for expansion here? Work is in a barely heated cottage in Michigan this November. Really I am worried that by June the joints could be exploding from expansion. All advice appreciated.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

I'd plan for some wood movement. If you want to match those mitered ends, you could do it with a domino or other biscuit or tenon. You could leave the tenons unglued to keep the ends registered and even-looking, while still allowing for some movement. The pitches of the different sides of the valleys have to be very similar for you to match up the ends. You can adjust some in the T&G.

Having said that, it's a cottage ceiling, right? Maybe a nice cottage, and we all want quality, but don't make yourself crazy. If you're getting paid to do the miter, that's great, but a moulding at the miter line could look very nice.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

you could also build down the valley rafter,butt in to that then a 1/4 rd on both sides to cover the cuts..or a variation of such..


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I'd expect a lot of movement. Shrinkage during heating season can be enough to open up gaps between T&G boards, depending on the specifics of your installation / MC, etc.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Id do what Tom said. Or even just rip a 5/4 and run it down the center of the joint. Then at least itll look like consistent gapping instead of sloppy miters..


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## BigJeff (Nov 10, 2014)

Ok so gluing the miters is out. Deciding now between moulding over or the build down method(that would look super slick).
5/4 x 5/4 build down(super sleek) Got it!(maybe 1/4 round too..)

Any glue anywhere on the main runs? 

Thanks, about to start...


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## BigJeff (Nov 10, 2014)

Almost forgot...

Two 6/12 ceilings intersecting from perpendicular rooms, what are the miter and bevel settings? I tried about 5 setups last night and only produced useless triangles...:whistling


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

inlay like floors, but don't know what it would called on ceiling and what Tom said. Watch him he's a sleeper.


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## StrongTower (Mar 4, 2010)

BigJeff said:


> Almost forgot... Two 6/12 ceilings intersecting from perpendicular rooms, what are the miter and bevel settings? I tried about 5 setups last night and only produced useless triangles...:whistling


Remember to go off the valley pitch not the ceiling pitch... 👍


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

I actually break the joint in between the rafters and use a scarf,the t&g keeps every thing locked together and i don't need to nail close to the joint,easier to install the next board too


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

smh


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## Gaboy (Mar 30, 2014)

The breaks on this ceiling land on rafters....butt joints. scarfs work to but dead wood needs to be behind them if they don't fall on center of rafter...IMO


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