# Float switch for dual 230v 5HP pumps



## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

I have a system from the 60's that has dual septic pumps. The original system would work as follows:

- Float comes up, one pump engages
- If float continues to rise, the second pump will engage
- If only one pump engages, the next time the float comes up the second pump will engage first to maintain equal wear. 

So basically I have the original float and rod that comes up from the tank and nothing else. 

I'm looking for a switch to accomplish the above. Any help is appreciated!

GT


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Maybe these guys:

http://www.orenco.com/Product_Catal...ats_Assemblies_And_Accessories/Assemblies.cfm


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

griz said:


> Maybe these guys:
> 
> http://www.orenco.com/Product_Catal...ats_Assemblies_And_Accessories/Assemblies.cfm


Sorry, but people keep pointing me to these style of float switches. Those only go to 2HP and would require retrofit that I'm hoping to avoid. 

What I need isn't the part that goes into the water, I need a switch that attaches to an existing rod. 

GT


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Call the electric supply house or EC.


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

griz said:


> Call the electric supply house or EC.


Been there. No answers from them either.

GT


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Well at least call the boys at Orenco and explain your problem.

Try septic installers in your area?

Is this a common installation?

An EC should be able to solve this before first break.


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

griz said:


> Well at least call the boys at Orenco and explain your problem.
> 
> Try septic installers in your area?
> 
> ...


It's a cold war nuclear missile silo and the tank is 55' under ground in the launch complex. So... not so common. 

EC is electrical contractor? I wouldn't even know who to call that would have experience with this. 

GT


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Is this a Gov't. job?

Have you tried to get original plans & specs?

If someone built it & it broke someone can figure out how to fix it.

EC is Electrical Contractor.

Your contact with EC was he couldn't help?


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## TxElectrician (May 21, 2008)

Not saying you can't find the original floats like you have, but the way I would accomplish what you are doing would be with a lead, lag, stop, and alarm float connected to a pump panel with an alternating relay. This is probably the retrofit you stated you are trying to avoid.


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## Speedy Petey (Sep 30, 2003)

You DO need at least three floats, but you also need a control box with motor contactors and a flip/flop relay. I've wired many of these.
Let me see if I can find one.

You say the system is old? How is it working now? If you have huge 5hp pumps you HAVE to have a control box somewhere. Where is this system installed??


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## Speedy Petey (Sep 30, 2003)

Here is a typical alternating control.
http://www.zoellerpumps.com/en-ap/product/30-duplex-electrical-alternator-control-panel

Looks like for this brand only one panel is available for single-phase 5hp pumps, and will only work with one specific pump.
http://www.zoellerpumps.com/en-ap/product/30-duplex-electrical-alternator-control-panel


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks for all of the responses.

I actually have the original switcher system. I had it cleaned up but it still doesn't work right. I know it could be rebuilt but I was thinking there would be a more reliable turn key system available. 

This was done with one float that attached to the arm on the right of the pic. 

No, it isn't a government job. I'm retrofitting into a home. 

I'm sure an EC could help if I found the right one but that has been difficult so far. I'd pay someone to build what I need if it could be done. 

In all reality I don't need the alternating pump part. Since this will be residential there is no major load on it. It was in operation for 25 years, under water for 30 and I dropped a new motor on it and the pumps performed perfectly. Point is, they aren't wearing out any time soon. 

Right now I have it wired directly to a manual switch and I just use it when I need to. That isn't ideal b/c if something springs a leak while I'm gone I need to know it will be taken care of. 

Thanks again!

GT


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## Speedy Petey (Sep 30, 2003)

Is it truly a 5hp pump? "Cause that's freakin' huge for a resi septic pump.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Speedy Petey said:


> Is it truly a 5hp pump? "Cause that's freakin' huge for a resi septic pump.


Don't forget it was a missile silo....


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

Speedy Petey said:


> Is it truly a 5hp pump? "Cause that's freakin' huge for a resi septic pump.


It's actually dual 5HP pumps. I only have one right now and I don't even know how I'd have enough water incoming to over power it but it would be nice to have the functionality. 

Keep in mind that it's 55' below ground and it's a 3" line so it's got a lot of water to move. 

GT


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## Speedy Petey (Sep 30, 2003)

Yes, I missed the part about where it was. It all makes sense now.


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

Maybe let's simplify this a bit... what can I use that will activate one pump?

I'd like it to connect to the rod that has the float on the end of it.

GT


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## maninthesea (Nov 11, 2008)

I would use a micro switch 
http://www.grainger.com/category/switches/electrical/ecatalog/N-8fsZ1z0cdmx
To energize a magnetic contactor
http://www.grainger.com/category/ne...ters-and-contactors/electrical/ecatalog/N-nru
Set up two circuits with the second switch only activating if the float rises past the set point of the first switch. If you want to spread the wear on the pumps change switches quarterly


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## GTHill (Jun 10, 2012)

So get this... the original part is STILL MADE! It's an original Square D part. I just got the new one in from Grainger. Same thing. Can't believe it... 50+ years later!

GT


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Order fast, or North Korea might get the last one........:blink:

the thinking is that the alternating pumps reduce corrosion frozen pumps....


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