# Drywall - glue or no glue?



## Mikebuild

Hey all,

I've been constructing for a while now. The other day I was watching a video on drywall hanging. I've worked around countless drywaller's and have built many houses, but don't recall ever seeing empty glue tubes anywhere on "any" jobsite. This video claims that it is quite common and even a "must", to glue the drywall to the framing, especially the lid.

So the question: do you glue your drywall?

Thanks, Mike.


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## Walraven

Yes absolutely screws on the perimeter glue the field , no screws no screw pops.


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## Calidecks

Walraven said:


> Yes absolutely screws on the perimeter glue the field , no screws no screw pops.


That would not pass inspection anywhere here. Screws are required in the field as well. No glue required though. Never once have I seen drywall glued and I come from two generation of drywall contractors. Nor have I ever seen drywall fail or become problematic because no glue was used.


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## Walraven

It isn't the first thing I see you guys doing different over there:laughing:
It's considered best practice down these ways.


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## m1911

Walraven said:


> It isn't the first thing I see you guys doing different over there:laughing:
> It's considered best practice down these ways.


I have a friend that's from N.Z., and he pronounces my name "Keeevin" and refers to baseboards as "skirting" and casings as "architraves." :laughing:
He's a hell of a nice guy...


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## Calidecks

m1911 said:


> I have a friend that's from N.Z., and he pronounces my name "Keeevin" and refers to baseboards as "skirting" and casings as "architraves." :laughing:
> He's a hell of a nice guy...


I find that hard to believe!


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## m1911

Californiadecks said:


> I find that hard to believe!


That I have a friend?:laughing:


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## hdavis

Usually just screw, sometimes glue and screw. Just glue won't pass, but you can always pull the screws after inspection...


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## Calidecks

m1911 said:


> That I have a friend?:laughing:


Exactly! I'm surprised you guessed it. :laughing:


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## Big Shoe

Last house I glued was in 1978. Common in Illinois and probably still is. 

All screws here in Florida.


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## Calidecks

If you think about it, it's only going to make the drywall as strong as what the glue is stuck to. The inside thin paper on the board.


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## Big Shoe

You are up late.


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## SouthonBeach

Same as Big Shoe, in Fl never see glue, all screws.


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## Mikebuild

They claimed the big advantage was no nail pops if you screwed and glued. I might try it on the lid next time. Still won't stop truss lift cracks, but may cut down on pops ... we'll see.


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## avenge

I don't glue but probably 90 percent of drywall I've removed was glued. There were still plenty of nail pops, it was hard as a rock, sticks to the framing but barely to the drywall.


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## hdavis

Mikebuild said:


> They claimed the big advantage was no nail pops if you screwed and glued. I might try it on the lid next time. Still won't stop truss lift cracks, but may cut down on pops ... we'll see.


If you leave the screws in and use water based glue, you'll definitely have more pops than if you used no glue. Safest if you're leaving the screws in is to let the glue harden, then tighten all screws again. Others may say just let it harden and remove the screws.:whistling


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## hdavis

Mikebuild said:


> They claimed the big advantage was no nail pops if you screwed and glued.


They were wrong.


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## hdavis

avenge said:


> I don't glue but probably 90 percent of drywall I've removed was glued. There were still plenty of nail pops, it was hard as a rock, sticks to the framing but barely to the drywall.


They probably took too long getting the drywall in place - the stuff can start to skin over fairly quickly, and once that happens, you get a poor bond to the board. Working solo, I have to be busting butt and avoid the fast skinning products.


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## hdavis

I'll screw and glue in 3 situations. 

The first is for air barrier purpose - running a solid bead along all studs, plates, etc cuts down on bay-bay air movement. That improves thermal performance of the wall system - it cuts way down on air infiltration. 

The second is in some fire rated assemblies, with the same basic goal. Keeping the air from moving bay to bay helps to keep the fire from spreading bay to bay (or wall to ceiling, etc). 

The third is purely to stiffen walls framed on the flat. The more the drywall can be made to act like an integrated part of the framing, the stiffer the wall is. 

Again, this is all solid beads of glue, not the dollops typically used.


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## blacktop

Californiadecks said:


> That would not pass inspection anywhere here. Screws are required in the field as well. No glue required though. Never once have I seen drywall glued and I come from two generation of drywall contractors. Nor have I ever seen drywall fail or become problematic because no glue was used.


You guys texture everything! We don't!


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## tedanderson

[RAISING HAND AND WAVING IT WILDLY]

Please excuse the ignorance of the low-voltage guy in the room, but don't nail/screw pops give you some indication that something else could be going wrong structurally? Wouldn't you want to notice a nail pop or two as an indication of settling, or some other anomaly if there wasn't anything terribly wrong?


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## blacktop

Rio said:


> Was going through the current CRC (California Residential Code) which is essentially the same as the IRC except that California thinks it has to put in some changes and make it 'unique' for California, anyway going over some information regarding continuous wall sheathing for shear walls and saw this tidbit;
> 
> _*Interior finish material
> shall not be glued in Seismic Design Categories Do, Dl
> and D2•	*_
> 
> Since most if not all of California is in one of those Seismic Design Categories or even more stringent that solves the mystery of why no glue on the drywall...........


It never rains in California !!!


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## Rio

blacktop said:


> It never rains in California !!!


But it pours...........


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## Calidecks

blacktop said:


> It never rains in California !!!


Please excuse my ignorance but where does rain fit into a seismic category? Thanks in advance.


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## blacktop

tedanderson said:


> [RAISING HAND AND WAVING IT WILDLY]
> 
> Please excuse the ignorance of the low-voltage guy in the room, but don't nail/screw pops give you some indication that something else could be going wrong structurally? Wouldn't you want to notice a nail pop or two as an indication of settling, or some other anomaly if there wasn't anything terribly wrong?


Settling is a foundation issue .

Screw pops are a moisture issue . In the lumber . In the board . Or just in the air!! 
http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/nail_pops.html


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## blacktop

Californiadecks said:


> Please excuse my ignorance but where does rain fit into a seismic category? Thanks in advance.


Moisture !


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## blacktop

And humidity holds a big hand too. Remember now! We got this new Light weight bullchit now !!! It's made out of smoke stack ash [synthetic drywall] and It's mostly air! You don't reckon that chit might soak up a little water ???????????


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## blacktop

Glue!


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## Larrcom10

Do not glue. houses settle and screws give. We had a house and we thought why all these cracks? Do they have major problems? No then I removed some drywall and for the first time I saw glue... what. Never saw this in 15 years. It had ripped and warped the drywall above every door and all doors still operated as intended telling me that it's normal settling not major problems.


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## hdavis

That really depends on what you call normal settling. Either way, the framing should work with however It's getting finished. If you're using ADA for doing the drywall, That's 100% glued, and the glue isn't optional.


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## Calidecks

With the way things move out here I can see why I've never seen drywall glued. When I've seen problems with popped nails or cracks it's not because the drywall wasn't glued.


Mike.
_______________


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## griz

Until I read this post I had never heard of drywall being glued.

Can't imagine why one would want to.

It's a code thing out here....


and I absolutely detest a smooth wall finish....

good skip trowel is an art....


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## hdavis

Different things different places.

Up here, smooth is common.

ADA (airtight drywall approach uses a continuous bead of glue along all studs and plates to prevent air movement though the cavities. Screws are to code. This started in Canada. You have to come back after ~ 3 days to tighten all screws. Big pain.

Drywall manufacturers give screw spacing with and without glue.

Doors aren't always a good indicator of framing movement, the top of the frame floats a lot, since only the casing and finish nails tie it to the framing.


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## Calidecks

griz said:


> Until I read this post I had never heard of drywall being glued.
> 
> Can't imagine why one would want to.
> 
> It's a code thing out here....
> 
> 
> and I absolutely detest a smooth wall finish....
> 
> good skip trowel is an art....




Yep not too many other states call it smooth wall either. Must be a Cali thing. I too like a good skip trowel. 


Mike.
_______________


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## hdavis

Up here, smooth Wall is class 4 or 5 finish.


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## griz

hdavis said:


> Up here, smooth Wall is class 4 or 5 finish.


here also....

just do not like it....

did a bunch of it at Tahoe.

1/2" plywood over studs & 5/8" rock over plywood...

then the finishers did their thing


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## 91782

Larrcom10 said:


> Do not glue. houses settle and screws give. We had a house and we thought why all these cracks? Do they have major problems? No then I removed some drywall and for the first time I saw glue... what. Never saw this in 15 years. It had ripped and warped the drywall above every door and all doors still operated as intended telling me that it's normal settling not major problems.


Must depend on where you are at is all I can say.


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## TheConstruct

Glue is definetly very common on new construction here but no Seismic and minimal humidity considerations to contend with.


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## blacktop

Larrcom10 said:


> Do not glue. houses settle and screws give. We had a house and we thought why all these cracks? Do they have major problems? No then I removed some drywall and for the first time I saw glue... what. Never saw this in 15 years. It had ripped and warped the drywall above every door and all doors still operated as intended telling me that it's normal settling not major problems.


When green lumber dries .its gonna move and the drywall is going to move with it . Glued or not .


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## Warren

Always glue the walls. And don't be stingy!

We had a contractor once who demanded that we glue the ceilings also. We made sure to have the glue gun nearby, but I don't think many of those lids got much if any glue.


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## Tinstaafl

IMO, it makes a lot more sense to glue the ceiling than the walls. Unless I'm the one stuck with doing it. :laughing:


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## Calidecks

I'm just not seeing any issues without glue. Ever. Is it stronger? Maybe. Does it need to be stronger? No. Imo. 


Mike.
_______________


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## blacktop

Warren said:


> Always glue the walls. And don't be stingy!
> 
> We had a contractor once who demanded that we glue the ceilings also. We made sure to have the glue gun nearby, but I don't think many of those lids got much if any glue.


It's all in the brand of glue. Tight bond wallboard glue is the one we like . Its not runny and very user friendly.


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## blacktop

Californiadecks said:


> I'm just not seeing any issues without glue. Ever. Is it stronger? Maybe. Does it need to be stronger? No. Imo.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Like ive said before. The less screws in the field. The better the finish . Sow the the board up with feild screws and you've got a real good chance of screw pops due to lumber shrinkage. And who to hell wants to spot a billion field screws? 

I glue ! When inspectors start talking about screw patterns? I go on my rant and they usually give up and leave me alone .


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## rblakes1

hdavis said:


> Different things different places.
> 
> Up here, smooth is common.
> 
> ADA (airtight drywall approach uses a continuous bead of glue along all studs and plates to prevent air movement though the cavities. Screws are to code. This started in Canada. You have to come back after ~ 3 days to tighten all screws. Big pain.
> 
> Drywall manufacturers give screw spacing with and without glue.
> 
> Doors aren't always a good indicator of framing movement, the top of the frame floats a lot, since only the casing and finish nails tie it to the framing.


When I read your first post I was wondering why the Americans with Disabilities Act would require glued drywall, then I got to this post and it all made sense! Lol

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## blacktop

rblakes1 said:


> When I read your first post I was wondering why the Americans with Disabilities Act would require glued drywall, then I got to this post and it all made sense! Lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


The ones that don't know ? Will never understand. 

Its like the manufacturers. They don't use it . They make it and sell it . 
I've solved a lot of issues over my three decades of glueing drywall . I'm not stopping now. 
Although its not required by code here . Its my code . The board gets glued . Or I walk !


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## rblakes1

Most of my jobs are 10-12 boards max. I generally glue everything, but never paid attention to what glue I used, just whatever was around. After reading through here I'm going to try out some of the ones mentioned

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## blacktop

rblakes1 said:


> Most of my jobs are 10-12 boards max. I generally glue everything, but never paid attention to what glue I used, just whatever was around. After reading through here I'm going to try out some of the ones mentioned
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


No chit. What sticks better to wood and wallboard is all purpose mud. I kid you not . Sticks like **** on a blanket. 

But we use tight bond . And osi .


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## hdavis

The right glue makes a big difference. Latex adhesive caulk can soften the board, and thicker water based shrinks a lot, leading to pops if the screws are left in. Quite a few glues will skin over too fast and not get a good bond. This is a bigger issue if you're running continuous beads on all framing.

Ideal to me is a solvent based low shrinkage adhesive that doesn't skin too fast with high initial tack.

I use the usual suspects, plus grip-rite.


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## Big Johnson

hdavis said:


> The right glue makes a big difference. Latex adhesive caulk can soften the board, and thicker water based shrinks a lot, leading to pops if the screws are left in. Quite a few glues will skin over too fast and not get a good bond. This is a bigger issue if you're running continuous beads on all framing.
> 
> Ideal to me is a solvent based low shrinkage adhesive that doesn't skin too fast with high initial tack.
> 
> I use the usual suspects, plus grip-rite.


Ever use this?


http://greatstuff.dow.com/product/pro-wall-and-floor.htm


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## hdavis

Never tried it.


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## Big Johnson

hdavis said:


> Never tried it.


It must be good stuff because you’re not allowed to use it in Commiefornia.


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## FixItRight

Walraven said:


> It isn't the first thing I see you guys doing different over there:laughing:
> It's considered best practice down these ways.


Well, get this. I just removed two drywall panels, standard 4' x 8' boards, that were glued onto the studs. HAVE YOU EVER HAD TO BE THE OHE TO CLEAN THAT CRAP OFF???? IT TAKES A HAMNER AND CHISEL. So guess what?? Contractors should get on board with installing drywall panels with drywall screws. If installing onto metal frames, use fine thread drywall screws. If onto wood, use course thread drywall screws. That's it. No adhesive. Have some consideration for the next guy who may have to replace them in the prospective future. It took me three hours to chisel off the fricken mess!! It dries like cement!! You can't leave it on. It creates added depth for the board and won't allow your drywall panels to install flush with the studs. What's funny is that I'm from California where we do things correctly and relocated to Florida where people seem to behave like neanderthals. They tailgate on the road in their big trucks (small penis thing, I gather), shine brights on you from behind, and have the manners of narrow-minded bullies.


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## Tom M

Well the code allows for fewer screws with adhesive. Ive used it on split levels where there's lots of traffic above.

It will suck the board up and float over imperfections.using glue.

No doubt suck dealing with later. I guess I would use a Fein tool and reapply to fill voids going back up.


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## FixItRight

SouthonBeach said:


> Same as Big Shoe, in Fl never see glue, all screws.


Oh, I just pulled two panels off this job site and the adhesive was caked on, not one screw. What a deal getting that resolved. This is in Florida. I'm glad to hear that it's not a common practice. The place was constructed in 2007.


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## FixItRight

hdavis said:


> Agreed about holding better.
> 
> I press it down with my left hand while I drive the screw to make sure it bottoms out. IMO, a lot of people's problems come from using the wrong glue - skins too fast, too thick, shrinks too much. You can still mess it up with a good glue...
> 
> I don't glue if I don't need to, since I may be the one demoing it at some later date. Yanking off 4" chunks is a PITA, and scraping the glue off the studs isn't much fun either.


Amen. I just went through this and it was a waste of time. With screws, you just remove them and you're onto installing a new board in minutes. This job was done with only glue and I'm still ranting about how long it took to chisel the mess off, lol.


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## Tinstaafl

So I guess you'd rather demo plaster & lath than glued drywall?  

Glue is considered best practice for a long-lasting installation. Sure, it sucks at demo time, but the goal when building is (should be) to make the product as bulletproof and long-lasting as possible. Skimping on stuff like that Implies that you really don't care all that much about the longevity of your work.


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## Tom M

Not one screw?


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## hdavis

Tom M said:


> Not one screw?


Blacktop would glue and screw, then remove screws so there couldn't be pops later on.

The Canadian airtight drywall method uses continuous glue bead on all studs and plates for air sealing. Cleaning that up is tedious.


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## Pounder

Thank God they don't allow such insanity in California. Pulling the 72 nails out of a sheet of sheerwall is bad enough. Spending my day's scraping glue off of the framing would drive me insane.


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## Kingcarpenter1

I’ve hung rock that specs called for glue on lids and walls


Mike


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## 530Foreman

Pounder said:


> Thank God they don't allow such insanity in California. Pulling the 72 nails out of a sheet of sheerwall is bad enough. Spending my day's scraping glue off of the framing would drive me insane.


I've seen in up here, but not just the glue, it was glued and screwed 7" OC. Supposedly for soundproofing between the bathroom plumbing wall and a bedroom according to the homeowner 🙄. Turned a 10 minute demo to get to the shower valve into half an hour.


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## paparocksfletcher

no marring ...gluing is a positive never a negative. Every finisher will tell you the same. only drywall guys that think it is a bad idea are drywall hangers or a drywall guy that doesnt finish. the less marring the prettier the job. nail pops...thats laughable..


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## Tom M

It's dealing with the renovation that sucks


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## hdavis

I used it for airtight drywall 15-20 years ago. I can live without glue most of the time.

To me, it's just one more step to do, and a major pain to demo out.


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## META

I always glue, but I'm just a carpenter. I've demoed plenty out...which is why I glue.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## hdavis

META said:


> I always glue, but I'm just a carpenter. I've demoed plenty out...which is why I glue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


It doesn't solve a problem I have. The exception is framing in the flat, where I'll make sure the stud faces are coplanar, and use continuous beads if glue to turn it into a more structural panel to improve wall stiffness and decrease stud movement.

I figure if 2 tiny nails held drywall for 70 years without glue, screws are enough. OTOH, I do my own hanging and finishing, so I have total control over quality.


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## META

hdavis said:


> It doesn't solve a problem I have. The exception is framing in the flat, where I'll make sure the stud faces are coplanar, and use continuous beads if glue to turn it into a more structural panel to improve wall stiffness and decrease stud movement.
> 
> I figure if 2 tiny nails held drywall for 70 years without glue, screws are enough. OTOH, I do my own hanging and finishing, so I have total control over quality.


I've finished plenty, certainly not pro level. I usually just put a couple fasteners in the center in-field to suck it to glue and flat...and around perimeter. 

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## hdavis

META said:


> I've finished plenty, certainly not pro level. I usually just put a couple fasteners in the center in-field to suck it to glue and flat...and around perimeter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


I install to manufacturer's instructions, so plenty of screws in the field, even with glue.


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## rblakes1

Multi tool with a scraper blade is generally faster than a hammer and chisel, in my experience.

I glue all my drywall, started using the foam gun. Much nicer to use than a caulk gun, especially over head

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## Lettusbee

Carbide scrapers work well for that

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## paparocksfletcher

Tom M said:


> It's dealing with the renovation that sucks


I have to agree with the demo of the rock from the studs. with the condition that lumber comes in , framing has a lot to do with nail pops. STAIRWELLS drive me nuts. if there is any application to focus on, that would be at the top of the list.


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## Tom M

For me anywhere there's walking above


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## madmantrapper

How do you pass the door blast test without gluing? I watched an entire house be stripped because it was not glued.


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## letgomywago

madmantrapper said:


> How do you pass the door blast test without gluing? I watched an entire house be stripped because it was not glued.


No one glues here and pass the blower test all the time. It's not like the drywall is just so permeable that adding glue to 10% of its surface will stop it from passing. Probably needed a better vapor barrier method in that house.


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## Calidecks

Never heard of a blower test out here. 


Mike.
*___*


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## letgomywago

Calidecks said:


> Never heard of a blower test out here.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> *___*


Are you guys getting new energy codes soon? I heard you're going to catch up on the NEC.


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## Rio

Blower tests are becoming more common with the ever increasing energy efficiency regulations getting harder and harder to comply with in California. They're one way to get credit if they pass, can be a big problem if they don't.


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## Rio

letgomywago said:


> Are you guys getting new energy codes soon? I heard you're going to catch up on the NEC.


The new cycle just came out, have to find out how screwed we're going to be.


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## letgomywago

Rio said:


> Blower tests are becoming more common with the ever increasing energy efficiency regulations getting harder and harder to comply with in California. They're one way to get credit if they pass, can be a big problem if they don't.


All the new construction here gets them idk all the particulars though that's never been my concern as of yet.


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## Rio

There's a laundry list of items and measures to achieve the required energy efficiency level out here and using software one can pick different ways to comply. The screws keep getting tightened and as we're in the power of climate zealots the measures keep getting more and more extreme.

Up to now I think blower door testing has been optional in the prescriptive approach (a punch list of items and no flexibility in the design hence no software used) but it will probably become required prescriptively, might have done so on this cycle.

QII (Quality Insulation Installation) used to be optional but starting on the last cycle became required prescriptively and if it's not paid attention to from early in the process can be a big problem.


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## letgomywago

Rio said:


> There's a laundry list of items and measures to achieve the required energy efficiency level out here and using software one can pick different ways to comply. The screws keep getting tightened and as we're in the power of climate zealots the measures keep getting more and more extreme.
> 
> Up to now I think blower door testing has been optional in the prescriptive approach (a punch list of items and no flexibility in the design hence no software used) but it will probably become required prescriptively, might have done so on this cycle.
> 
> QII (Quality Insulation Installation) used to be optional but starting on the last cycle became required prescriptively and if it's not paid attention to from early in the process can be a big problem.


Atleast they give you multiple options. The way things are going here you won't be able to use electric resistant or gas heating exclusively and will be required to use a heat pump. I like them but taking away all other options is a bit frustrating.


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## Rio

Was just checking out the latest changes, they're allowing electric tankless point of use water heaters in structures less than 500 s.f. which is nice, bunch of other stuff, big push on heat pump water heaters. I've attached one of the pages, the one that states the goals of the state. If anyone doubts that we're in the hands of a cult run by zealots read this page. As part of their program constant propaganda is required haha.
I'll also attach the 'What's changed' sheets........


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## Joe Fairplay

madmantrapper said:


> How do you pass the door blast test without gluing? I watched an entire house be stripped because it was not glued.


Test are required for CO in all of Florida since 2017 on new construction.
Once you have doors, windows and insulation installed you should pass the test and if not you should be close.
If it fails then you drywall all the lids and you should then already be in passing territory.
Adding drywall to the walls will definitely get you there if you built in accordance with the materials and practices you used to calculate the energy calculations and the manual J.
If you fail at this stage you have a massive fatal flaw in your energy calcs or your building practices and in no way will some glue under the drywall save you.
That's kinda crazy to think it would.
There are a few reasons to glue drywall at times but air seal is not one of them.
_EDIT: Unedited the edit. Post appears as original._


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## hdavis

Gluing drywall is absolutely used for air sealing. Canadian air tight drywall approach uses full glue lines on all studs, plates, etc.

Pretty stellar fire performance as well.


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## Joe Fairplay

hdavis said:


> Gluing drywall is absolutely used for air sealing. Canadian air tight drywall approach uses full glue lines on all studs, plates, etc.
> 
> Pretty stellar fire performance as well.


Is the gluing included in the energy calcs to meet that standard?
It's not like they just do it, it's part of the equation.
I was talking about passing a blower door test at the standard set by the 2017 code in Florida.
If you can't pass the test without glue, adding it won't solve your problem.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I edited my post to include in Florida.


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## Joe Fairplay

After a 4 minute Google education on "air tight drywall approach" I am now an expert. 
I rescind my edit and stand by my original statement. 
I still think anyone who glues drywall as an air seal is a stupid.
Prove me wrong.


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## hdavis

The air sealing with ADA is something you don't get with foam, and it prevents fire movement through the structure at the drywall / framing interface. It actually has to burn through the lumber. 

I don't think any of the web stuff mentions that.

In any case, developed in Canada maybe 25 years ago so cheaper insulation could be used in lieu of foam and not have air currents bay to bay, etc, getting full insulation value.

Do it or don't do it.


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## Big Johnson

Guys here are foaming the top plates in the attic after ceiling drywall, a heavy continuous bead of glue on the top plates before placing the wall sheets should accomplish the same goal. Myblower door guy says that’s the place to get the greatest gain in tightness after everything else is caulked and/or foamed.


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## META

It would seem bottom plate would also be important if we're hitting the upper plate too. 
The whole rim joist area is a big one.


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## hdavis

META said:


> It would seem bottom plate would also be important if we're hitting the upper plate too.
> The whole rim joist area is a big one.


I'm not sure what his blower door guy meant by after everything else is caulked and foamed.

IMO remodeling old houses, air tight drywall plus sealing what you can is better than foaming the bays, since moisture control in these can be pretty poor.


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## Big Johnson

META said:


> It would seem bottom plate would also be important if we're hitting the upper plate too.
> The whole rim joist area is a big one.


It’s air infiltration from the attic not the walls. Walls are something everyone has been addressing for years, it’s the attics that have been overlooked.


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## Big Johnson

hdavis said:


> I'm not sure what his blower door guy meant by *after everything else is caulked and foamed.*
> 
> IMO remodeling old houses, air tight drywall plus sealing what you can is better than foaming the bays, since moisture control in these can be pretty poor.



Air sealing walls etc., foaming around windows and doors etc.


If you crawl up into an attic after the ceiling drywall is installed (before the wall dw) you can see light coming up around every top plate. With blown in insulation there is no air barrier so the air can infiltrate in between the wall framing and wall drywall.


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## hdavis

Big Johnson said:


> Air sealing walls etc., foaming around windows and doors etc.
> 
> 
> If you crawl up into an attic after the ceiling drywall is installed (before the wall dw) you can see light coming up around every top plate. With blown in insulation there is no air barrier so the air can infiltrate in between the wall framing and wall drywall.



Got it. 

Once you've done that, there isn't much left except for anything that penetrates the lid drywall.


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## Joe Fairplay

Like I said, there are a few reasons to glue drywall at times but air seal is not one of them.
This is the proper way to seal drywall for an air seal.
An extreme version includes adding a gasket above the wall after the lid is installed.


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## Big Johnson

Here’s an interweb picture I just found.


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## Big Johnson

Poor mans version.


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## Joe Fairplay

Yikes.


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## Big Johnson

Joe Fairplay said:


> Yikes.


That would take forever and I bet there’d be a lot of voids.


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## Joe Fairplay

Big Johnson said:


> That would take forever and I bet there’d be a lot of voids.


Imagine the thought process required to reach the conclusion that was the solution.


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