# Severe out of level concrete floor



## electricman007 (Feb 1, 2011)

Guys, I have a job involving a basement that has about 2 1/2 inch low corner. The slab sort of dives to that spot. I have kitchen going in that corner so I need a level floor for cabinets. How can I build up a smooth level concrete floor from 2 1/2 inches to 0? Total area in the corner is about 6 by 8 feet. They must have run short of concrete on the pour and sloped the corner. Thanks.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Cut some BIG SHIMS.....:laughing:

Contact a Professional Concrete guy...he can fix it:thumbsup:


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## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

Tear it out and start over. This time hire a pro


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Damit just install the cabs. the floor never lever:blink: It's all about the shimage, proper shimage:thumbup: Ok move along nothing here to see:laughing:


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## Anti-wingnut (Mar 12, 2009)

Is this a DIY question? Why does an sparky worry about the concrete slab, and why is he putting up the cabs?


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

Build a raised height floor for it, so you step up into the kitchen?


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

As "griz" said, contact a concrete specialist. 

What you're asking is the same as a concrete guy posting a question about how to upgrade his electrical service. What advice would you provide:blink:? "Contact an electrician maybe?:thumbsup:


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

could be the guy is really slow on electrical work , and is expanding in to other areas of work to make it. Does happen.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Randy Bush said:


> could be the guy is really slow on electrical work , and is expanding in to other areas of work to make it. Does happen.


I can understand that, believe me, I can. But, in areas where you have little or no knowledge, sub it out to a specialist. 

This may be a bigger problem than just a out-of-level pour. We don't, and can't, possibly know. Best to contact a specialist. 

As a GC, I've had my hand in just about every trade, but I'm learning to sub jobs out to those who specialize in that trade: tile, roofing, concrete, electrical, plumbing, etc. It's better for all involved. I'm also trying to build relationships with other contractors as well.

In closing, his insurance "may not" cover anything other than electrical work. I once read a post on CT where an HVAC guy installed some cover base, pierced a water line and caused thousands of dollars in damage (commercial) that his insurance company would not corer because it was not related to HVAC.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Mapei has leveling products. Call their hotline with your questions. Here's a tip, you can stretch the product by adding pea gravel to the mix.


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## tom wentzwood (Dec 12, 2011)

look into self leveling products at any home inprovement store i think you will find what you need sound like eazy fix good luck!!! tom wentzwood


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Not enough info supplied to give a total recommendation.

I am not aware of any SLC that can go to 2.5" without an aggregate. To keep things simple (depending on what floor covering will eventually be installed) why not just float the floor up with a mud bed? You might need an additional product to feather the bed into the existing but it will be the cheapest option. 

Without knowing what the floor will be, it's all just blind darts at this point.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Make a floating kitchen, and hang it on the wall, its a new look now. Run a straight,level line on the wall and hang the cabinets 6-8" off the floor. This way the HO can sweep under them and if basement gets flooded, the cabinetry will not be ruined.

Charge extra for that while you at it...because you will save them allot of money in the long run :thumbsup:


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## valparaiso (Mar 9, 2010)

you need to use a self leveling material - euclid super flow top, basf chemrex self leveling underlayment, quickcrete floor resurfacer, etc.

snap chalk lines to new grade and perimeter, mix and pour till level, use a bonding agent (pva - polyvinyl acetate, or a latex), deepest area can have an aggregate (peastone) added for volume.

if this isn't something that you have done before i highly suggest you do it in two pours. first pour of underlayment with aggregate added, wait till it sets. second pour as a topping and trowel to feather edge. remember you cant feather edge a peastone mix.

concrete substrate must be clean of any dirt, oils, sealers, etc.

if too much call a concrete guy. no need to bust floor out (based on information given)


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## electricman007 (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks for all you input, both real and ridiculous. Truth is I am by trade an industrial electrical contractor. Several years ago we got into a more commercial phase doing retail, restaurant and office new construction and rehab. Following along that trail we wound up being GC i Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, South and North Carolina along with electrical contractor licenses in Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, South Carolina and North Carolina. I am rehabing a commercial building for a restaurant renovation of about 15000 sq ft. My question was to settle a dispute between my floor guy and my concrete sub.

The most important lesson I learned was not to ask questions on this forum which seems to be populated be a few good folks and a whole lot of people who need a life.

Thanks and good bye.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Dammit, now I'm not going to know whether my advice was any good or not


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

electricman007 said:


> The most important lesson I learned was not to ask questions on this forum which seems to be populated be a few good folks and a whole lot of people who need a life.
> Thanks and good bye.


Seriously? This question was your first post here, and this thread had no bashing, and more than enough friendly input/help.

For someone that's in your position, I'd expect a bit tougher skin.. ESPECIALLY through the internet.

It's ok if you take your ball, we'll find another.


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## dakzaag (Jan 6, 2009)

Wait, don't go... Come back...


We were just testing you...


I hope he doesn't tell Nathan...:jester:


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

I can't imagine what that dispute was all about. I guess the concrete guy was telling the floor guy it's your job to level and vise versa... to top it all off, an electrician is trying to settle that dispute...I would love to see how that 15,000 SF be completed, when you got Larry, Moe and
Curly trying to figure out who should level the floor :whistling :laughing:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

If the dispute is who is responsible for the f'ed up pour? Well, the concrete guy put the slab down out of level so he's responsible.


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## BKM Resilient (May 2, 2009)

There's* (always!)* moisture from beneath the original slab to contend with and then you're going to add a whole lot of moisture with-------OK, I don't know what sacrete is. 

Anyways, SLC products have very little tolerance for moisture. We NEVER use SLC without an effective moisture system like Koster or Ardex MC. I suppose ceramic/stone products may have higher tolerances but the SLC doesn't. 

The chemistry that makes them "flow" like water to a level point also deteriorates/disintegrates the hardened material after it all appears to be dry and set-------if exposed to heavy moisture which is normal for a basement slab. 

Basically I'm confirming what Mike said above. Either do a moisture test, do the top of the line moisture control systems or use other products than self-leveling.

Why not just do a mud bed?


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

BKM Resilient said:


> ....
> Why not just do a mud bed?


In my current project, because there's a decent-sized area (maybe 200 sqft) and height is at a premium, so I want as thin as possible, with a feather edge at the high spots.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

Maybe mudbed for areas thicker than 1", and exterior grade patch for screeding the feather to 1" thick mark.


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## madmax718 (Dec 7, 2012)

if height is at a premium, any way to grind down the high side?


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

madmax718 said:


> if height is at a premium, any way to grind down the high side?


It's an idea, but in my current case, slab thickness is also at a premium. I don't want to remove any material.


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## muskoka guy (Nov 16, 2013)

Worked on a large old school back in the 90s. We had to do a lot of floor patching. We used a three part epoxy that was very easy to work with. We scarified any very thin spots if needed and applied bonding agent. It was great for feathering in the edges. It was called sicaflex 1,2,3. Last time I tried to get some I could not find it. I guess they don't make it anymore. We tried many different products and it was by far the best we found. If someone knows of an epoxy product they still make I would be glad to know what it is.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

Grinding is not easy, or inexpensive, requires a bit of skill, not practical. Spot grinding yes, but bringing an area down 1" over a span and feathering it in.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Definitely prime the old concrete with some bonding agent. ( you've checked the concrete hasn't been sealed, I assume.) 

FYI, I repaired an exterior step at my house that had the corner broken off. Primed with full strength Keralastic then mixed Sacrete concrete with 50/50 Keralastic + water. I removed the large aggregate from the mix. The repair has lasted 6 Chicago winters and holding up fine.

I would replace the water minimizer with Keralastic cut with water. It will make the mix stickier so test out how it performs when you trowel it. It might be more trouble to level depending on the ratio of keralastic.

That Texas product looks good. What does that cost?


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## Akisapost (Apr 17, 2015)

2 1/2" of floor thickness is quite a bit and I agree that you should go to someone that knows what they are doing. Most self-levelling compounds and filling mortars are not suitable for such large thicknesses. They will end up cracking and breaking. 
Also keep in mind that if you don't know what you are doing you may end up consuming (wasting) quite a bit of product. Go to the pro


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## The D (Feb 23, 2015)

:thumbsup:


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

Akisapost said:


> 2 1/2" of floor thickness is quite a bit and I agree that you should go to someone that knows what they are doing. Most self-levelling compounds and filling mortars are not suitable for such large thicknesses. They will end up cracking and breaking.
> 
> Also keep in mind that if you don't know what you are doing you may end up consuming (wasting) quite a bit of product. Go to the pro



Most yes, but there are levelers that go deep 8" or more with an aggregate.

It needs an expansion space around perimeter. And priming/double priming is probably number one reason for cracking/ tenting/unbonding.

The price for the leveler, well I have enough money for a couple bags.

All of these patchs, levelers are designed for quick turnaround, hours, regular cement needs cure time in days.


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## Thunderlane123 (May 3, 2015)

Float that **** brother.


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