# Best way to cut 1/2 inch cement board?



## PrecisionFloors

PrestigeR&D said:


> maybe she could hold my lawn signs--sweeeeeeeet *looks like my GF*:thumbsup:


We'd have to see her from behind to be sure :whistling :laughing:

Sorry couldn't help myself. All in good fun :thumbsup:


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## Mike Finley

PrecisionFloors said:


> Originally Posted by *Mike Finley*
> _1) Matching height to another butted material_
> 
> _*Ditra XL for that...very rarely would you need more height. I know Angus and myself usually add another layer of plywood (which I would do regardless of underlayment) so....we typically don't need the height.*_
> 
> 
> _2) Structural Rigidity (opening up the big can of worms with that one, been around a long enough time, so you can waste your breath ) _
> 
> _*Yeah nice stirring stick you got there. Thing is I choose to trust the TCNA on this one...they test things to achieve quantitative results, not just what "feels" better.*_
> _*Deflection is the enemy of a tile installation. You don't fight that with cbu.:thumbsup:*_
> 
> 
> _3) Availability_
> 
> _*Ok, I'll give you that one *_
> 
> _4) Installation familiarity based on who is doing the installation and what they are or aren't familiar with_
> 
> _*Another good point, you're on a roll....but I was speaking in terms of first person usage, not employees or subs. You know that.*_
> 
> _5) Glass tile_
> 
> _*Ok, ok. Now you're just picking niche installs to make an argument :laughing: Again I was speaking in a broad sense of everyday, run of the mill jobs. Context Mike, context. :laughing:*_
> 
> _6) Personal preference_
> 
> _*Well I can't argue with someone who prefers to work harder, dirtier, and slower.*_
> 
> _7) Size of tile being installed_
> 
> _*How often again, are you putting <2x2s on a floor??*_
> 
> _I'm sure there are more, I'm sure you can knock a couple of them, but you asked for just one. :cheesygri_
> 
> _(By-the-way, I've used and use Ditra and many others, so I'm not against it or for it, and I've read and heard all the internet arguments before.) :thumbsup:_
> 
> I respect you Mike, and think you are a helluva contractor and businessman. I also think you like to pick a side of an argument and have fun with it for a little while.....
> 
> Knowing how you look at productivity, I just can't see you not understanding our point of view. Yes tile size and glass being very valid points, but outside of that, for an everyday 90% typical job, there are no real valid arguments to continue using cbu. Your employees and subs can be trained (at least I hope). Unless you live in BFE and availability is really that bad. That's not you though :no:. Or most of this, or any other board. To me, making a majority choice based on what happens a small minority of the time is penny wise and dollar foolish.
> 
> But that's just my opinion, and I could be wrong :laughing:


I'm out. :laughing:


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## FlooringGuy

I'm going to say that I have used ditra a handfull of times and it dramatically increased my productivity with tile. I cannot say I have been in the business long enough to really give a fair assessment of its longevity compared to backer boards, but if it lasts and works as well as it goes down I'm sold on it. I actually offer labor breaks on my pricing to try and encourage people to choose it. 
I can see how people are skeptical about it as a product, but I think plastics have proven, over the last seventy years or so, to be a valuable substitution for other materials. The only way you can really deny it's validity as a viable substrate is if it has failed in an installation you have done. I personally, through eight years in retail, have not heard of one complaint regarding Ditra when it was installed correctly.


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## FlooringGuy

Maybe not all plastic products are the best idea though. I.E. Bondera


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## CO762

FlooringGuy said:


> The only way you can really deny it's validity as a viable substrate is if it has failed in an installation you have done. I personally, through eight years in retail, have not heard of one complaint regarding Ditra when it was installed correctly.


The main complaints I've heard of/seen regarding tile failure is kickers, cracking/popping, and water penetration. 
IMO, a non flat surface makes kickers more probable (ditra). But if you buy some strap leveling system and put them on each tile hopefully you can "cure" this problem. 

Tiling over concrete joints is a big source of breakage. I'd imagine the smaller hairline cracks could also be, but modified thinsets/grouts in use these days are better buffers for such small movements. Floating floors (old style) can be bonded or floating. They also used to not guarantee any installs unless the concrete floor was shotblasted. But no one does that anymore that I know of. Thin film coatings sometimes do, but people try and get away with acid etching, but that's only valid for "thin" film, nothing built up more.

Water penetration is a more complex issue and ditra alone cannot resovle that in most cases. However, I did use a length of ditra on a floor landing at an entrance to a house as it was all one sheet, so I used that there as I had some on hand. A lot of that can handled with DW...I mean mesh tape and a $39 pail of redgard....or now.....aquadefense. When I've used hardibacker on floors and there's a direct entrance from the outside, I usually put down a coat or 2 of 9235 as I always had 5 gals or so of that on hand. Stopped using that and now have a little bloo goo on hand still, but not doing a lot of that anymore. Mapei rep gave me a pail of aquadefense. i stuck that with my other one and once I run out of bloo goo, I'll start using the green stuff. This is sort of like talking tractors...."What's your favorite color?"
Black....black/red....blu....green. Wonder what's next on the palette?

The bigger, and IMO, BIGGEST failures is in layout. I just came back from a friends house. 850K....and tile layout really sucked. But then again, doors were twisted, trim lines didn't match up, base abruptly terminated, they didn't fill nailgun holes, crown joints were filled...at random, etc. These are the little things, the hidden ones that most owners don't see.


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## angus242

Mike Finley said:


> Dude, " one thing " ???
> 
> Come on now.:whistling


Sorry, Mike. Yes...one thing. My responses to your numbered "issues" would be very similar to what Precision said. 

Glass on a floor, that's a whole 'nother beast. 

Availability; seriously? I can order a roll right now (11:00pm CDT) and have it on my door step Tuesday. 

But I digress. This thread is about cutting CBU.

Did I mention shears?


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## SAWBLADEGUY

definitely a diamond blade! I recommend a 4" diamond segment blade


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## angus242

The best way to cut CBU is with shears. With a circular blade, you get way too much dust. Although if I sold blades for a living, I'd probably suggest one too.


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## WarnerConstInc.

The best way to cut it, is to hire someone else to cut it for you.


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## opiethetileman

I actually use a diamond blade on my chain saw and do it while i am wearing flip flops. Hey blade boy do you have chains.........................


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## jarvis design

I know this is an old thread that has been resurected, but, talking about cutting CBU... I use only permabase - most cuts are easy with an olfa knife - score and snap. For cut-outs I have been using a jig saw and whatever blade I can find for years! Yes, after about 6-12" the teeth on the blade are gone - its at that point it works the best - kinda like a shear


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## covaltleveling

I would say a Skillsaw for high production.


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## angus242

covaltleveling said:


> I would say a Skillsaw for high production.



And big toxic dust clouds too :laughing:


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