# Sheet rock down to brown paper backing, botched wallpaper removal?



## Nigel S. Shorts (Jul 21, 2007)

Ok, before smugness runs amok here, let's re-visit the original post:



> Hello All, welder by trade. Helping an older neighbor....the old paper is down and so is the layer of paper off of the sheet rock?
> 
> advice needed? Her end goal is to paint. It is a bathroom about 5x12....her budget is the concern, can it be retaped and re mudded.


This is his neighbor, and cost is a concern. Certainly she knows you get what you pay for, and asking her welder neighbor to do this type of work is not a recipe for a perfect paint or prep job. I'd never discourage someone from trying wallpaper. Not that I wouldn't try to explain some of the finer points and give some tips. 

It's not rocket science to mud walls. I taught myself to do it after I got tired of calling plasterers and tapers to do it for me, only to have to wait for them to show up. Too much down time waiting. Nobody likes doing small jobs- I get that, because I don't like it either. But I'm up for helping this guy instead of throwing cold water on his plan, unless he decides he doesn't want to do it anymore. I'll bet he makes out just fine, because Welding is closer to rocket science than skim coating in my opinion.


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## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

an easy way for begginers to skim coat a wall is to make stripes and then after that dries fill in between the stripes connecting them. id use easy sand for the first layer and then do it twice more with topping. 3 total coats. but id first paint the walls with kills to seal up the paper. This way you get less ridges that need to be sanded. its alot slower this way but if you cant afford to have it done professionally its easier to do by yourself.

after your done with the first coat move over 6 inches and start your stipes so your always overlapping repeat for the final coat.


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## Capt-Sheetrock (Aug 8, 2007)

another good way to do it in a situation like this, (after preping the walls with gardz or whatever you decide on) is to thin your mud down, to almost paint consistance (what we call stomp mud). Use a paint roller on a short pole, roll it on, then use a 12" broad knife to smooth it down . You will leave a few edges (kinda like roller lap marks) between the knife passes. down fret about this, after it dries, just sand them, then coat again as needed. Better to make a few thin coats, then try to cover it in one pass, the thicker the mud, the more you will sand.
Like said before, it don't take a rocket surgeon,,, go for it!!! Mud is easy to sand, and one more coat will fix anything


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## Forry (Feb 12, 2007)

Fun how the painters say don't do it and the pro's say go for it... just noticing... what does it mean?


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

Way i look at it is like this. If he messes it up after it dries get a damp sponge out. Mud is water soluable. You know that is the fastest way to knock down really high spots in my oppion. I also like the roller ideal by capt sheet rock. I wish i would have known that trick before i did my bathroom walls. But like i said i went with two coats of skim not to thick and i kept the broad knife damp because it made it slide on easier.


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## Runamuk (Aug 23, 2007)

Nigel S. Shorts said:


> Ok, before smugness runs amok here, let's re-visit the original post:
> 
> This is his neighbor, and cost is a concern. Certainly she knows you get what you pay for, and asking her welder neighbor to do this type of work is not a recipe for a perfect paint or prep job. I'd never discourage someone from trying wallpaper. Not that I wouldn't try to explain some of the finer points and give some tips.
> 
> It's not rocket science to mud walls. I taught myself to do it after I got tired of calling plasterers and tapers to do it for me, only to have to wait for them to show up. Too much down time waiting. Nobody likes doing small jobs- I get that, because I don't like it either. But I'm up for helping this guy instead of throwing cold water on his plan, unless he decides he doesn't want to do it anymore. I'll bet he makes out just fine, because Welding is closer to rocket science than skim coating in my opinion.


 
Ok, Ok I'll be nice I'd first seal the entire surface Guardz will work ok but I prefer a fast dry oil based primer especially in a bathroom (Zinsser Coverstain). Sand most of the very rough edges off of the cured film then skim the bad spots with a very thin coat of joint compound to level the surface and let it dry. Be careful not to load up the edges or the corners where not needed. Next, do the whole surface again with a much thinner coat of joint compound (thin the joint compound down with water to achieve this, mix thoroughly, (Cost effectiveway to achieve a very slight " imperfect smooth" texture). Gently sand out your imperfections and "goobers" Then prime with the same fast dry oil based primer again. Then you can paint it with minimum of 2 coats of your favorite water based semigloss.

Tools: 48lb box of joint compound, 1 gallon of fast dry primer, 120 grit sand paper, 1 gallon of paint. 8" taping knife, mud tray, good brush for cutting in and 2 weenie roller covers for tight areas. Work out of a deuce bucket with a grid for painting.

I hope this helps.

Rick


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## Runamuk (Aug 23, 2007)

Forry said:


> Fun how the painters say don't do it and the pro's say go for it... just noticing... what does it mean?


Kind of like the drywall guys saying "the painters will fix it"?  LMAO!

Those of us who have been in the trades a while have been bitten more than once! Suffice it to say: I'm not about to give advice about something that is not in my area of expertise. I 'll gladly let the drywall and texture magicians do this one:thumbsup:. 

That is how true craftsmen survive!

Rick


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Man from what every one wrote why didn't you tell the:thumbsup: poor guy to rip out the drywall and start fresh he would have spent less time after reading all these posts just to cover up wallpaper.


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## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

well i wasnt sure if he still had the cabinet, toilet, base trim etc still there. if the bathroom was gutted than yes it would be the way to go.


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## atv71 (Aug 29, 2007)

*thanks for all of the input!!!!!!!!!*

I'm going to re-rock it. the vanity and the toilet cam out in about 30 minutes. i had alot of extra trim left over from doing base and door trim at my own house. All will be well, i was carful to measure all of the peices i took out and have all demensions down. I am on a mission at this point to learn something new, and it may not be a perfect job but i said yes. and now im commited. All in all it will be a good experience. 

I have learned that, all tradesman have different techniques and likes and dislikes. But most of all i appriciate all of the honest feedback to a fellow tradesman. I will be doing the job over a week period and then i will turn it over to a nephew of hers to finish painting. There are no large sections, bath is 5' x 9' and there is a door a window and a tub shower combo. Studs are good and so is insulation..........wish me well.

i will give an update in a few days


Warm regards to all of you.

atv71 - Welder Guy


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## 747 (Jan 21, 2005)

Seriously speaking i seet the toughest thing being mudding the new drywall to the ceiling. They have a special mud tool for that it looks like a V. Is also used on inside corners. Now i say go with mesh tape but the pros will say paper tape because there pros. Meaning there so experienced that they don't make a mess with the paper tape.


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## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

747 said:


> Seriously speaking i seet the toughest thing being mudding the new drywall to the ceiling. They have a special mud tool for that it looks like a V. Is also used on inside corners. Now i say go with mesh tape but the pros will say paper tape because there pros. Meaning there so experienced that they don't make a mess with the paper tape.


well most guys use the automatic taping tools and i dont think mesh tape works very well in that system. you have to push quite hard and you want the tape staying in place.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

and besides when you use mesh tape and the house exspans and contracs you'll end up with cracks in your corners if you use paper tape it less likely you'll have this problem. good luck.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

A beginning mudder like this would do best with the Level-Line product by NO-Coat for the ceiling line. It is the easiest to apply and wipe out.


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