# What tool should I use to do this?



## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

I'm installing this in a 1 3/8" door. 

What can I use to make an accurate cut and also not destroy the door or myself? I can't find a 5/8"x2" router bit. I can find a 1/2x2. Two separate runs of 1/2 to get the 5/8ths? How many passes is that going to take? 100?

This sucks.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Make a wide saddle for the bottom of the door to support a circular saw. Set a right and left stop to give you your 5/8 width. Few passes and your done.


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## pappagor (Jan 29, 2008)

use a 3/4" x 2" router bit:clap:


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

overanalyze said:


> Make a wide saddle for the bottom of the door to support a circular saw. Set a right and left stop to give you your 5/8 width. Few passes and your done.


I like this idea, but I'm having trouble picturing the mechanics of it. The door has to be on its side on horses or standing on edge in a jig. I'm basically then making an "L" with two pieces of 3/4, then clamping that on one edge of the door?
Am I following you?

Only thing I'm concerned about is the weight of the saw being a little unruly when trying to make a nice cut.


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## mnld (Jun 4, 2013)

Step one: contract Festool and tell them you need a new tool designed for this.

Step two: wait six years for tool development, and another six years for it to be released here.
Step three: purchase custom tool and make slot dust free next to customers sixty inch flat screen. Return tool within 30 days for refund.

Results guaranteed.


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## Cubwelder (Dec 3, 2012)

Easy Gibson said:


> I like this idea, but I'm having trouble picturing the mechanics of it. The door has to be on its side on horses or standing on edge in a jig. I'm basically then making an "L" with two pieces of 3/4, then clamping that on one edge of the door?
> Am I following you?
> 
> Only thing I'm concerned about is the weight of the saw being a little unruly when trying to make a nice cut.


I'd make a jig as described with the left and right stops for either a circular saw foot or a router. Either one would be easy enough. Just clamp on the jig and start cutting or milling the dado.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

The guide supports the baseplate. It usually takes some time to get e erything adjusted.

You pretty much never want to do a deep cut with a hand held router, it's the wrong tool IMO.


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## Cubwelder (Dec 3, 2012)

hdavis said:


> The guide supports the baseplate. It usually takes some time to get e erything adjusted.
> 
> You pretty much never want to do a deep cut with a hand held router, it's the wrong tool IMO.


Good point, but I wouldn't have a problem using a router for this task. I'd probably take 1/2" deep passes with a router until I hit full depth. With a saw I'd be at full depth with each pass. 

That said I have a ton of time on routers. If you don't use them much then stick to what you're most comfortable with.


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

I had assumed this would be done over the course of two or three hours with a router making multiple passes, lowering each time. If this thing grabs at two inches down it's going to be an ugly scene for sure.

Now that skillsaw has been getting some Thanks here I'm feeling more confident about using it. It's my usual weapon of choice. I feel most comfortable with it. Probably won't take me more than an hour to get the jigs set up. Another hour to cut, chisel, and fuss.

We were so close to selling the new pre-hung door for this. I really didn't want to have to do this.


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

There are a couple ways to cut in an auto bottom. 

1. Sled and router. I use a 1/2" straight bit and let the legs a little off center. Make successive passes until required depth is reached then flip the door and do a couple of passes from the other side to widen the slot to necessary width. This sled is homemade. I usually use it for re-stiling doors and pocket door floor guides. Festool does make one as does Norfield Industries (Stilizer).

2. Template. I use a 1/2" straight bit and 5/8" collar guide. Template is made 1/8" bigger than the required mortise width and the pocket in the template is wider than the door. Make successive passes until required depth is reached.

With either method clamp a piece of scrap to the edge of the door to prevent blow out as the router exits the edge of the door stile. I lay the door flat for either method.

I've never put an auto bottom in an 1 3/8" door. I'm not sure I'd try. I'd be worried that there would not be enough material left on the bottom rail. If you end up doing this make sure that your hardware fits snug to help stabilize the edges. The door pictured is 1 3/4".


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

I would use a router with a template for a cleaner cut and cleaner corners.Nobody said you had to make a 2" cut in one pass.Creep up on it.Just seems to me you will end up with a lot better cut than using a saw.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Cubwelder said:


> Good point, but I wouldn't have a problem using a router for this task. I'd probably take 1/2" deep passes with a router until I hit full depth. With a saw I'd be at full depth with each pass.
> 
> That said I have a ton of time on routers. If you don't use them much then stick to what you're most comfortable with.


Agreed. It can be done with a router, but if something goes wrong it can go reaaly wrong. CS should be easier for him


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## Easy Gibson (Dec 3, 2010)

Justin Huisenga said:


> There are a couple ways to cut in an auto bottom.



Thanks for that, man. This is basically what I had pictured. Is your jig polypropylene? If so, you're the best.

I told the GC several times I can't promise this procedure won't destroy the door. They said just try it.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

The pictures Justin had were close to what I thinking for the saw jig. The stops keep the saw inline. I would lay the door flat, clamp it, and hold my saw horizontal. A little bit of time to setup and then 5 minutes or less to make the slot.


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 10, 2013)

Easy Gibson said:


> Thanks for that, man. This is basically what I had pictured. Is your jig polypropylene? If so, you're the best.
> 
> I told the GC several times I can't promise this procedure won't destroy the door. They said just try it.


1/2" plexiglass table, UHMW legs, 4 KD furniture cross dowels, 4 ratcheing jig knobs. In the middle there is a Festool bushing guide adapter bolted on so I can just clip on the router. Took about an hour and a half to make. If you are comfortable with routers it is the fastest way to cut in an auto bottom.

The template pictured is slower but there are fewer things that can go wrong which is why I made one to cut it in on the door pictured. I did not feel like re building a pair of reclaimed walnut doors. They took long enough to build the first time.

I've never done this with a circular saw but if that's what you're more comfortable using then by all means use that.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

mako1 said:


> I would use a router with a template for a cleaner cut and cleaner corners.Nobody said you had to make a 2" cut in one pass.Creep up on it.Just seems to me you will end up with a lot better cut than using a saw.


If he was doing joinery,I'd agree. A saw cut can be ple.ty good, and he only has two critical cuts.


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

pappagor said:


> use a 3/4" x 2" router bit:clap:


Curious why you would use a 3/4" bit to get a 5/8" cut?


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

Some of you guys are making it too complicated for something so simple and quick.

Clamp a 2x on both sides of the door flush with the bottom for saw base support, and using a circular saw with edge guide, make few passes.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

m1911 said:


> Some of you guys are making it too complicated for something so simple and quick.
> 
> Clamp a 2x on both sides of the door flush with the bottom for saw base support, and using a circular saw with edge guide, make few passes.


We have a winner!


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## TLHWindows (Jan 5, 2012)

m1911 said:


> Some of you guys are making it too complicated for something so simple and quick.
> 
> Clamp a 2x on both sides of the door flush with the bottom for saw base support, and using a circular saw with edge guide, make few passes.


I hate running my saw on its side when making a long cut, but that is a good idea.

Although not deep enough for what you need, I had to make a pass through a bottom of a door for a pocket door guide about a 1/4" wide. 
Looked at all my tools and then I broke out my Dewalt biscuit cutter, set the height and dragged it down the door :whistling
unorthodox yes? But it worked and just in 1 pass :clap:


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