# Avoiding working into a corner



## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

Hey guys,

This kitchen I'm working on only has 1 doorway in/out. It's a very closed-in kitchen. I want full tiles at the door threshold. The obvious conundrum is I can't just start tiling there and work my way into the room - trapping myself at the far wall. Curious how you guys that do this every day would approach it?

Would you carefully dry-lay down all the tiles and start at the far wall and work your way back towards the door, praying that it stays perfect to have your full tiles at the threshold? 

Thanks!
Dustin


----------



## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Well I'm not any everyday guy but I wouldn't hesitate to do dry layout then back out.
What kind of pattern Dustin?


----------



## rblakes1 (Jan 8, 2015)

Definitely do a layout before you start. The last one I did I started against the front wall of the house, but had to end with a full tile where it would transition to tile about 30' away. I lay out a few rows with spacers to get some measurement numbers, then go from there. 

On that job, I ended up within 1/16 of where I wanted to be after 45 rows (give or take)

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

We have that issue on every bathroom. Some we precut the room. Other times we break it off into 2 or 3 sections and hit one every day. A lot of the time I will set a center row and work towards the door. The next day work from that row out and then the third day I will finish the back third.


----------



## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

Tom M said:


> Well I'm not any everyday guy but I wouldn't hesitate to do dry layout then back out.
> What kind of pattern Dustin?


Either 1/3's or 1/2's, that is yet to be decided by the customer.


----------



## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

​


TNTSERVICES said:


> We have that issue on every bathroom. Some we precut the room. Other times we break it off into 2 or 3 sections and hit one every day. A lot of the time I will set a center row and work towards the door. The next day work from that row out and then the third day I will finish the back third.


Thanks for the reply. Do you use a lippage system? I will be using Perfect Level Master levelling clips. I've seen that if you do the floor in sections, you can install the clips under the last row of tiles and pick up where you left off. Any tips or tricks I should know about doing this?

I'm inclined to layout 2/3's of the room, and work backwards from there to the doorway. Then the next day do the remaining 1/3.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

heavy_d said:


> ​
> Thanks for the reply. Do you use a lippage system? I will be using Perfect Level Master levelling clips. I've seen that if you do the floor in sections, you can install the clips under the last row of tiles and pick up where you left off. Any tips or tricks I should know about doing this?
> 
> I'm inclined to layout 2/3's of the room, and work backwards from there to the doorway. Then the next day do the remaining 1/3.


I use RLS on every job. PLM is the same system.

Yes you can pick up where you left off. Make sure to take scrap tile and wedge them into the clips on the last row. It will ensure that the clips don't move or get broken off accidentally.

Call me if you need anything. 630-347-1956


----------



## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Make sure to take scrap tile and wedge them into the clips on the last row. It will ensure that the clips don't move or get broken off accidentally.


Simple but genius. Though eventually I plan to switch to the Ridgid system. I think it's superior.


----------



## heavy_d (Dec 4, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I use RLS on every job. PLM is the same system.
> 
> Yes you can pick up where you left off. Make sure to take scrap tile and wedge them into the clips on the last row. It will ensure that the clips don't move or get broken off accidentally.
> 
> Call me if you need anything. 630-347-1956


Thanks Rob!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Golden view said:


> Simple but genius. Though eventually I plan to switch to the Ridgid system. I think it's superior.


I can't take credit for it. Someone told me about it. I think it was Craig.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Just did this floor last week. Dry laid, partially because of the marble aspect (I wanted to see the floor before I laid it) and partially cause I worked my way out the door, then laid them for real.

The layout worked perfect for a full tile in the doorway and a full tile end right underneath the toe kick. I actually started the dry layout at the vanity side.


----------



## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

So you can do a dry lay out with the clips to keep everything relative? 

I could never figure out how a dry run would work; things would get nudged here and there and then your original lay would be meaning less.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Metro M & L said:


> So you can do a dry lay out with the clips to keep everything relative?
> 
> I could never figure out how a dry run would work; things would get nudged here and there and then your original lay would be meaning less.


Correct. I just throw the clips in upside down to act as spacers. As I get closer to the end, I got less religious with the clips because my tolerance for error was larger.

In this case I have base and shoe going down after tile so if I was a little off somewhere, it wasn't going to be a problem.


----------



## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

TNTSERVICES said:


> We have that issue on every bathroom. Some we precut the room. Other times we break it off into 2 or 3 sections and hit one every day. A lot of the time I will set a center row and work towards the door. The next day work from that row out and then the third day I will finish the back third.


*same here*
I also will snap or draw a ref line a couple of tiles in, to make sure I hit that line on the way out to the door entrance. If I want to start at the tub.
I find at the door way I usually have some wiggle room for transition to an existing floor etc.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

gowings said:


> *same here*
> I also will snap or draw a ref line a couple of tiles in, to make sure I hit that line on the way out to the door entrance. If I want to start at the tub.
> I find at the door way I usually have some wiggle room for transition to an existing floor etc.


Definitely snap some reference lines. Aquanet helps keep the chalk in place as you work.


----------



## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

Golden view said:


> Simple but genius. Though eventually I plan to switch to the Ridgid system. I think it's superior.


Just used the new Ridgid system on three jobs. I'm a huge fan 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

onmywayup said:


> Just used the new Ridgid system on three jobs. I'm a huge fan
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I hate to break it to you but it's a spin doctor ripoff.


----------



## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I hate to break it to you but it's a spin doctor ripoff.


Doesn't matter in the least to me who they ripped off. Let the lawyers figure that crap out. All I care about is that it works, and very well. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

onmywayup said:


> Doesn't matter in the least to me who they ripped off. Let the lawyers figure that crap out. All I care about is that it works, and very well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Just saying it's nothing new and if you find a distributor for spin doctor you can get them a lot cheaper.


----------



## tang (Jan 5, 2009)

For large areas like kitchens, I have worked from the door, down the left wall, and came back on the right wall in a U shape. Working my way out the same door. Snap lines in both directions.


----------

