# Laminate flooring done wrong!!



## mnjconstruction (Oct 5, 2008)

I have to fix a laminate floor that someone put down recently and they didnt leave any gap along sides. So now its "peaking". Is there any way to cut off the needed space on each side without removing all the flooring? I was thinking multimax? or something similar. 

Any ideas?


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## goneelkn (Jan 9, 2010)

If it is "peaking", the bottom of the groves might be cracked. A multimax would work, but better have a few blades. Think it would be easier to remove 1st row on the length walls.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

a guy i went to trade school had to do something like this in the basemtn of a church... really really big room and the installer did it tight.. he had to make two passes along both long walls witha recip cutting 3/8 off both times , he used a recip saw and went through a few packs of blades


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## nymasterfloors (Jan 28, 2011)

An easy way to do it but a bit dangerous is use a right angle grinder with a blade on it you will prob have to remove the guard snap a line then cut away buy a few blades be careful and it will go quick


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

2nd nymaster on the grinder. Unfortunately from the laminate I have done I would say its hell on blades. It would chew up wood blades on that Multi, maybe see about loading a Supercut diamond blade.

I am assuming you are looking to cut a bit of length off of each side and not along the face, then otherwise, as said above pull one board and rip and go home.


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

nymasterfloors said:


> An easy way to do it but a bit dangerous is use a right angle grinder with a blade on it you will prob have to remove the guard snap a line then cut away buy a few blades be careful and it will go quick


What kind of blade would you load on for that?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Over concrete?


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Toe-kick saw. Oscillating saw for the corners. Pack a lot of blades and a helper to run a vac behind you.


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

I would use a toe kick saw and set the depth.


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## Don_h (Aug 11, 2011)

You could just use a utility knife and cut the sheet rock if it is against drywall. I am amazed at what some so called professionals do sometimes. Dealt with the exact same problem today, cutting the Sheetrock isn't the best idea, but a lot better then the dust from a grinder.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Don_h said:


> You could just use a utility knife and cut the sheet rock if it is against drywall. I am amazed at what some so called professionals do sometimes. Dealt with the exact same problem today, cutting the Sheetrock isn't the best idea, but a lot better then the dust from a grinder.


True, however in some of the ones I've seen - they needed more than a 1/2" of expansion cut into them


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## Don_h (Aug 11, 2011)

In extreme weather areas like Alaska where I live I agree, but 5/8 on each side is a nice gain. 1 1/4 should be enough anywhere, though better to just do it right the first time, and the biggest area that I see as a problem is at transition strips where guys/gals just but them tight.


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## mnjconstruction (Oct 5, 2008)

nymasterfloors said:


> An easy way to do it but a bit dangerous is use a right angle grinder with a blade on it you will prob have to remove the guard snap a line then cut away buy a few blades be careful and it will go quick



I had thought of that too, what kind of blade do you think would work the best?


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## mnjconstruction (Oct 5, 2008)

moorewarner said:


> 2nd nymaster on the grinder. Unfortunately from the laminate I have done I would say its hell on blades. It would chew up wood blades on that Multi, maybe see about loading a Supercut diamond blade.
> 
> I am assuming you are looking to cut a bit of length off of each side and not along the face, then otherwise, as said above pull one board and rip and go home.


Yes I want to cut 1/4" off each piece on each side. The best way would be to just pull the floor cut and re-install but Its a pretty big floor and we just dont have that kind of budget on this job. Floor is about 16 x 24. 
If I could just remove base trim cut 1/4" off then reinstall trim it would save so much time. I could be done with it in a few hours rather then a full day. i just need to figure out a tool I can get close enough to cut that 1/4" off


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

mnjconstruction said:


> Yes I want to cut 1/4" off each piece on each side. The best way would be to just pull the floor cut and re-install but Its a pretty big floor and we just dont have that kind of budget on this job. Floor is about 16 x 24.
> If I could just remove base trim cut 1/4" off then reinstall trim it would save so much time. I could be done with it in a few hours rather then a full day. i just need to figure out a tool I can get close enough to cut that 1/4" off



Go back up to post 8. precision done gave you the answer


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

toe kick saw would work great. If you have a jamb saw, you might be able to put a bigger base plate on and make it the correct depth for your cut. Just another option.


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## McKeeFlooring (Aug 14, 2011)

I did one of these not too long ago on a whole home. I used on oscillating multi-tool from harbor freight (24$ for the tool on sale and 8$ for blades). I cut out and installed T-moldings in doorways and then removed quarter round and luckily found that it was mostly caused by 1 or 2 boards being tight. I just put a small piece of luan against the wall or baseboard and set my blade against that to keep it straight. It took all of 2 hours to fix the entire first floor. Toekick saw is good too, but the multi tool makes less dust and is safer to use.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

sounds like a perfect job for a rail saw set it a mil up for concrete and or a mil into the sub for a wood subfloor. use blue tornado blades they are cheap  and do a good job.


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