# pocket door



## tate16t

I want to replace an existing 24" bathroom door with a pocket door. Has anyone done this? Know of a good website?


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## 415moto

Why a pocket door? More space eh? I dont care for em too much, they make the wall flimsy. Though 24 isnt too big. Not that you touch the wall much, just irks me.:sad: 
Youll need at least 24 inches of space next to the door with no plumbing or wires, at least in the door height portion. And you have to open up the wall remove the studs, etc to frame for it. There will be light demo and you will need to put new drywall up.
Its really just a rail that holds the door, theyre not too complex. Google it and youll find diy links.

I took one out today, 'bout 30 years old. Still worked fine.


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## Big Dog Dan

tate16t said:


> I want to replace an existing 24" bathroom door with a pocket door. Has anyone done this? Know of a good website?


 I am in the process of renovations and had to remove 6 pocket doors.
What a mess. 
The wall that the pocket doors slide into actually bows in if you push on it! 
This is very bad if you use wallboard in the rooms. 
It may be a good idea to use a strong plywood if you can put it on the pocket door before wallboard. 
The other fact I find very irritating is the tracks move, the adjuster is hard to work with, the glider that keeps the door centered all make it a pain. 
If you are not aware of the thickness of the pocket door cage, you can make large cuts across the doors if you screw or nail in the area of the slide track of the whole door. 

There is more!
The lock assembly must be considered when ordered. It is likely the owner will not like it after it is installed.
Make sure it is easy to lock and the door actually closes in the way you would feel comfortable if you wanted to be in a privite room.

I can go on and on with more about pocket doors, but I must say that on a positive note, they do indeed hide the door when the door is opened so that it is completly hidden in the wall. 

They do have the bennifit of not using wall space and if you forgot to make room for things like a desk or dresser in the room, the pocket door will make you look good.
However I suggest you forget the fuzzy feeling of thinking you are doing something unique and simply build with solid doors and hinges. 
Later when you are adjusting the door hinge or latch, you will be happy that you are not trying to replace the wheels or track assembly deep inside the wall.
But meanwhile have fun with the installlation because that is the cool part, and HO love the idea (for awhile).


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## Marker

*Pockets are ok*

I guess I stand alone, but I love using pocket doors in certain places. They are great when you want to hide a door, like between a kitchen and den, as to close off the den from the noise of the kitchen.

Last set I installed I used a kit that I found at the HD for $80. The system actually builds a frame in the wall to give some rigidity.

The cost to buy and install a pocket door is easily 3 to 5 times that of a pre-hung slab, so use them sparingly.


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## Just In Time

I have been asked by several cust. to install a pocket door.I have checked the Johnson Hardware web site and it has been helpful.My quest. is what should I charge to tear out and re-frame,drywall,and trim out for pocket door. There is no elect. or plumbing ?


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## Cole

If you are a handyman, you can charge T&M, which I am sure is how you charge 90% of your work.


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## skyhook

Just In Time said:


> I have been asked by several cust. to install a pocket door.I have checked the Johnson Hardware web site and it has been helpful.My quest. is what should I charge to tear out and re-frame,drywall,and trim out for pocket door. There is no elect. or plumbing ?


$300 - $500 would be a fair price for quality work.


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## troubleseeker

The instructions in the Johnson kits are pretty easy to follow. Be sure you get a decent kit with good ball bearing three wheeled trolleys (like the Johnson), not any of the trash single wheeled brackets that gave pocket dooors the bad rep they have. They are still out there at some retailers. They do make the wall in the area flimsy as 415moto stated, but other than that the Johnson hardware is good stuff and will last a long time. 

Just a heads up on a few potential problems before you demo anything.
You will need a new rough opening of twice the door width plus at
least an inch to accomodate the door and pocket.

You may have to raise the existing header as the pocket door will 
require a header height of 4 1/2" higher than the door height to
fit the track assembly.Most ro are only 2 1/2" higher than door 
height for swinging doors.

Any electrical switches that exist on the "pocket" side of the door 
will have to be moved, as the new thin studs will not allow them.

The trim on the pocket will not match the height of nearby swinging doors unless you "reverse engineer" the height dimensions to force it so.

Make sure the track is secured for the long term and you are satisfied with the way the door works before drywalling and trimming, as there is no fixing it later.


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## silvertree

Of the door kits I've tried, Johnson pocket doors were the best.


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## skymaster

Johnson is the only way to go. WARNING WARNING DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!!! With a pocket door when you are screwing the sheetrock to the frame DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT USE 1 1/4" SCREWS, ONLY use 1 1/8" MAX!!!!!! 1" are fine also and easier to find.
Jack
TRUST ME:sad:


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## Double-A

Same goes when installing trim pieces such as chair railings (not likely) or base molding. If you use too long a nail, you're gonna put it in your door or in the path of your door.


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## silvertree

skymaster said:


> Johnson is the only way to go. WARNING WARNING DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!!! With a pocket door when you are screwing the sheetrock to the frame DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT USE 1 1/4" SCREWS, ONLY use 1 1/8" MAX!!!!!! 1" are fine also and easier to find.
> Jack
> TRUST ME:sad:


Hey, I believe you. AND ANOTHER THING, as your installing your base, watch those nails, AND ANOTHER THING, if you are screwing a vanity to the same wall as your pocket, WATCH THOSE SCREWS! I never did any of that, but I heard about it.:whistling


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## TimelessQuality

skymaster said:


> Johnson is the only way to go. WARNING WARNING DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!!! With a pocket door when you are screwing the sheetrock to the frame DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT USE 1 1/4" SCREWS, ONLY use 1 1/8" MAX!!!!!! 1" are fine also and easier to find.
> Jack
> TRUST ME:sad:


Ditto that!!! I did a whole house last year, pulling out 70's paneling, rock it all. My guys put a couple screws in the wrong place. Came in the next morning, and the HO showed us the pocket door with two scratches ALL THE WAY ACROSS!!!! I guess he discovered it, and 'worked real hard, but finally got that door closed'...  idiot...


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## Big Dog Dan

"Any electrical switches that exist on the "pocket" side of the door 
will have to be moved, as the new thin studs will not allow them." Good advice Troubleseeker. 
If you look at the plan closely you will include a place within reach for a switch. If a closest or wall is near the pocket door, you can place it on that wall. 
Just remember a single switch light box needs enough room for it and also the cover plate. Unless your homeowner requests you cut the cover plate to fit against the wall coming at right angle to the wall your door is in.


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