# What exactly is the Difference between Drywall Primer and All Purpose Primer?



## RMDailey (Nov 22, 2016)

I've been peeling wallpaper and getting the drywall ready to texture and paint for a bathroom I'm redoing. 70-80s era wallpaper sucks and my helper is back at school...

So the question is "What's the difference between Regular Primer and Drywall Primer other than Drywall primer is significantly cheaper?" The thoughts one has during the monotony of peeling wallpaper. I honestly have never given it much thought. 

I generally have all-purpose primer in my trailer and it was easier to use what I had than go to the store and get "Drywall Primer." My normal Primer is $20/gal drywall primer is $12-14/gal. The time lost wasn't worth the savings in this case. 

So what's the actual difference? is one better to use on drywall than the other? Etc? Etc?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Google PVA primer. PVA seals, does not build.

Tom


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I always prime wallpaper walls with Cover Stain prior to touch ups. After walls are fixed I prime with Zinsser 123. Or....One of my other new favorites is Pre Rite Pro Block. 


Alls I'm going to say is don't cheap out on primers on remodels. Good clean drywall you can get away with it. 

Good luck


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

Drywall primer is just for what it says, drywall. Multipurpose is suitable for various surfaces and exterior use also. 
If you were priming an entire house then using drywall primer would save you $$$. For small areas the savings is minimal. Multipurpose is my go to primer for most residential applications, I always have it in my van. I would change from that if I needed an oil primer or if on a large new drywall job. 
If you get areas where the drywall paper is gone and you are into the gypsum, then treat it with drywall conditioner before repairing. It will harden the gypsum and prevent the repair from bubbling.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Big Shoe said:


> I always prime wallpaper walls with Cover Stain prior to touch ups. After walls are fixed I prime with Zinsser 123.


No reason to double prime. Also, there's no reason to breath in oil paint fumes using oil based Cover Stain. Cover Stain now comes in a water based formula and dries in 30 minutes, not hours. Cleans up with water, not thinner. Or, just prime with 123 and topcoat, altho latex Cover Stain is heavier bodied and covers better than 123.


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## RMDailey (Nov 22, 2016)

Thanks. That's what I figured. Since I only need to prime small sections of drywall occasionally it's more efficient for me to just use all-purpose. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

The best primers are the ones that actually seal. PVA is total junk, I wouldn't use it in section 8 housing. A cheap primer might pass under a true flat paint, but the better paints aren't true flats. Skimping on the primer results in the first step to a less than desirable final finish.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

...


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

RMDailey said:


> Thanks. That's what I figured. Since I only need to prime small sections of drywall occasionally it's more efficient for me to just use all-purpose.


Use a primer-sealer. It will say right on the can.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I haven't used PVA in a bunch of years. It isn't the best at anything except being inexpensive. OTOH, if you still have flashing after 2 top coats, it's expensive.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

hdavis said:


> I haven't used PVA in a bunch of years. It isn't the best at anything except being inexpensive. OTOH, if you still have flashing after 2 top coats, it's expensive.


Yep. Long ago I used PVA primer too. It was cheap, but a bit runny. It was meant only for new drywall and nothing else. It didn't cover well. I forget the technical reason, but the PVA seals the pores of the drywall and locks together the paper fibers. I don't see PVA primer by itself for sale now, because Primer-Sealers do the same thing.

Tip of the day: Spraying Zinsser Bullseye 123 latex primer on clean interior enameled walls (baths, washrooms, kitchens). Do not spray it on to cover, even lightly. I tried that and fortunately checked back minutes later and there were dozens of sags running down the slick enameled walls. You have to very lightly mist coat Bullseye 123 onto the surface and resist spraying it on any heavier. You can come back 15-20 minutes later and hit it again lightly, provided you very lightly mist coat the first coat.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Caslon said:


> Yep. Long ago I used PVA primer too. It was cheap, but a bit runny. It was meant only for new drywall and nothing else. It didn't cover well. I forget the technical reason, but the PVA seals the pores of the drywall and locks together the paper fibers. I don't see PVA primer by itself for sale now, because Primer-Sealers do the same thing.
> 
> Tip of the day: Spraying Zinsser Bullseye 123 latex primer on clean interior enameled walls (baths, washrooms, kitchens). Do not spray it on to cover, even lightly. I tried that and fortunately checked back minutes later and there were dozens of sags running down the slick enameled walls. You have to very lightly mist coat Bullseye 123 onto the surface and resist spraying it on any heavier. You can come back 15-20 minutes later and hit it again lightly, provided you very lightly mist coat the first coat.


PVA is still sold everywhere as cheap as dog**** at a kennel and it doesn't seal new drywall or compound worth a damn it can be very problematic. It's no better than using the cheapest paint as a primer. The best water based primers for drywall I've used are Gardz and SW Problock.

As for 123 running regardless of application on a slick surface is a typically seen when applying water base over oil base. This can happen with any water base paint over a slick surface oil or not. It either has to be deglossed or primed with an oil base.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

avenge said:


> PVA is still sold everywhere as cheap as dog**** at a kennel and it doesn't seal new drywall or compound worth a damn it can be very problematic. It's no better than using the cheapest paint as a primer. The best water based primers for drywall I've used are Gardz and SW Problock.
> 
> As for 123 running regardless of application on a slick surface is a typically seen when applying water base over oil base. This can happen with any water base paint over a slick surface oil or not. It either has to be deglossed or primed with an oil base.


PVA *DOES* seal new drywall/gypsum board. Scientifically so. First error.

Zinsser's Bulleye 123 *DOES* bond to enameled surfaces without the need to degloss. It says so on the can. Second error.

Saying to degloss or use an oil based primer? Strike three. :blink:


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Caslon said:


> PVA *DOES* seal new drywall/gypsum board. Scientifically so. First error.
> 
> Zinsser's Bulleye 123 *DOES* bond to enameled surfaces without the need to degloss. It says so on the can. Second error.
> 
> Saying to degloss or use an oil based primer? Strike three. :blink:


Obviously you don't have a clue.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

avenge said:


> Obviously you don't have a clue.


About? Nevermind.


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## Deadcoin (21 d ago)

*** None of the primers mentioned are good for new drywall ***
Use First Coat by USG or USG Sheetrock Tuff-Hide if your spraying, I use it to roll just use a smaller nap like 3/8 - 1/2. I only used tuff-hide once because they were out of First Coat.
I would look for a drywall supply company and give them a call.
It will be cheaper and they usually have it.
USG makes the drywall, makes the drywall mud so it only makes sense to use their primer.
I don't even have to sand my finishes when using this product. (I have 31 yrs exp- do not try at home)
It helps conceal joint banding, telescoping and uneven absorption of top coats.
It's $50 -$60 for 5 gallons, has high solids and produces results.
Considering HD just sold my neighbor a gallon of Behr "primer" for $30 a gallon for his bathroom.
Its ceiling flat paint. So there is the pro's recommendations,lol.
Do it right the first time. You will save stress, time and material applying less coats and the frustration after a topcoat that looks like garbage and you have to apply 3 coats at minimum.
I began priming my drywall jobs because call backs to repair dents caused after the job by movers, carpet layers, anyone but me.
People taking advantage of my warranty so I just charge for priming, use First Coat and the homeowner signs off on the contract and Im done.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Deadcoin said:


> *** None of the primers mentioned are good for new drywall ***
> Use First Coat by USG or USG Sheetrock Tuff-Hide if your spraying, I use it to roll just use a smaller nap like 3/8 - 1/2. I only used tuff-hide once because they were out of First Coat.
> I would look for a drywall supply company and give them a call.
> It will be cheaper and they usually have it.
> ...


No.


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## Joe Fairplay (Aug 26, 2021)

Some crazy opinions being thrown around here.


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## hoye0017 (Sep 17, 2020)

Perhaps primer has changed significantly in the last 5 yrs since this zombie thread ended?


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