# Hole Saw



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

I'm looking for a quality hole saw to cut in five inch can lights.would like one that is diamond impregnated for cutting through lath and plaster would like a diameter of 5 1/2" - 5 5/8". Any recommendations?


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Lenox model 12100538RL (5-3/8")


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Hardly Working said:


> I'm looking for a quality hole saw to cut in five inch can lights.would like one that is diamond impregnated for cutting through lath and plaster would like a diameter of 5 1/2" - 5 5/8". Any recommendations?


I think mine is a greenlee.


----------



## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

Lennox or blue mole all the way IMO. Quite often in an older home like this i pass the buck onto the customer for the saw. If i am chancing on ruining a saw then someone has to pay. The only other hole saws i would consider is Milwaukee with the carbide tipped teeth. But i do not think they would work well for finesse cutting for like a recessed light where the trim ring may not cover any damage.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

woodchuck2 said:


> Lennox or blue mole all the way IMO. Quite often in an older home like this i pass the buck onto the customer for the saw. If i am chancing on ruining a saw then someone has to pay. The only other hole saws i would consider is Milwaukee with the carbide tipped teeth. But i do not think they would work well for finesse cutting for like a recessed light where the trim ring may not cover any damage.


Plaster will ruin one in only a few holes...but the abrasive ones are kinda slow.


----------



## chewy (May 23, 2010)

Carbide tipped or run a normal holesaw in reverse.


----------



## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

Inner10 said:


> Plaster will ruin one in only a few holes...but the abrasive ones are kinda slow.


Exactly why i do as Chewy stated and run them in reverse. But even then damage can occur and someone has to pay. I as well as you and others here are not out to do hack work so if the customer wants a good clean job than they pay, part of that charge is for tool wear/tear.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

woodchuck2 said:


> Exactly why i do as Chewy stated and run them in reverse. But even then damage can occur and someone has to pay. I as well as you and others here are not out to do hack work so if the customer wants a good clean job than they pay, part of that charge is for tool wear/tear.


Reverse still screws them pretty hard, you can get 3-7/8 hole saws for around 12 bucks and throw them out as they wear down...but the big ones arnt cheap. The last big job I had in a wood lath and plaster house I started with an abrasive saw then switched to a regular one to finish the cut. The speakers I used a multimaster grout blade to penetrate the finish coat and half of the brown coat, then used a bi-metal to finish the cut.


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

480 has the right tool but its just the wrong size for me I need 5 1/2" and these only go to 3/8 damn Juno can is 5 1/2". if it has enough wobble it'll be just perfect and bored out to 5 1/2"


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Hardly Working said:


> 480 has the right tool but its just the wrong size for me ...... if it has enough wobble it'll be just perfect......


I hear this a lot :laugh:


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

480sparky said:


> I hear this a lot :laugh:


Move those hips big boy.


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

Back on point about these POS Juno cans. What's the deal with a 5 1/2" hole come on everybody else is 5 3/8". Anybody make a 5 1/2" hole saw?


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Why not buy another brand of lights?


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Hardly Working said:


> Back on point about these POS Juno cans. What's the deal with a 5 1/2" hole come on everybody else is 5 3/8". Anybody make a 5 1/2" hole saw?


Are you sure it's a 5-1/2" That sounds like an odd-ball.


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Hardly Working said:


> Back on point about these POS Juno cans. What's the deal with a 5 1/2" hole come on everybody else is 5 3/8". Anybody make a 5 1/2" hole saw?




The difference between 5-1/2" and 5-3/8" is:

*A whopping 1/16" on both sides.*


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

480sparky said:


> Why not buy another brand of lights?


It's what was on site I have to go with the flow.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

480sparky said:


> The difference between 5-1/2" and 5-3/8" is:
> 
> *A whopping 1/16" on both sides.*


Recessed lights can be a little picky...:whistling


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Hardly Working said:


> It's what was on site I have to go with the flow.


I've never seen a canlight that requires a 5-1/2" ONLY hole.

If they really are Juno, I'll bet 5-3/8 will work just fine.


----------



## BrentD (Nov 22, 2013)

You may as well buy a new one for each job. Plaster is a pain.

Be careful it doesn't bind up and send you flying off the ladder!


----------



## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

BrentD said:


> You may as well buy a new one for each job. Plaster is a pain.
> 
> Be careful it doesn't bind up and send you flying off the ladder!


I've had a Greenlee carbide grit 6-3/8 for 20 years. Sheetrock, plaster, vinyl, steel, hardiplank, plywood..... Still using it.


----------

