# Removing porcelain tile in shower niche?



## TarheelGC (Jan 23, 2019)

I would appreciate feedback on removing porcelain tile in and around a niche in a newly tiled shower stall. The niche recess was site built, with a shelf made from 2 pieces of tile with a Schluter Reno-T to cap the face of the shelf. The shelf slopes toward the rear of the niche and there is generally sloppy work within the niche.

Tile installed with Laticrete 252 A118.4 thinset; over RedGard; over cement board.

At the rear of the niche, there is plywood behind the cement board. At the sides of the niche there is 2x6 framing behind the cement board.

(1) My current plan is as follows:

Using a diamond blade in a side grinder or Dremel Moto Tool, cut out a square in the center of each piece of tile, being careful to avoid cutting into the RedGard as much as possible. Then make diagonal cuts in this square.

Then use a punch and hammer to break the tile along with a flat bar to break the tile loose. 

Repeat.

Grind away thinset.

Apply fresh Redgard as needed.

(2) How likely is the Redgard to come off with the tile?

(3) How likely is the cement board to be damaged?


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

A pic would be helpful. Try striking into the edge of the niche side tiles (or behind trim) with a 5-in-1, and go from there. They might break clean, especially since it's fresh and you strike firmly. If it's grouted, remove it first with a carbide grout blade on a multi-tool.


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## TarheelGC (Jan 23, 2019)

I'll post a picture.

OK, what's a 5 in 1? 


Looked it up - painters tool.

Thanks!


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## Bull Trout (Dec 6, 2016)

TarheelGC said:


> I'll post a picture.
> 
> OK, what's a 5 in 1?
> 
> ...


its everyones tool, a fixture in my bags after I used one the first time


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I wouldn't worry about damaging the redguard. I would just keep the substrate in mind. You are going to reapply any way. Remove the side tiles first with a 4" knife or as Mark suggested a 10-1.

My concern is that you know some specifics, but lack the knowledge to remove a few tiles or what a 10-1 tool is. I would suggest hiring a tile contractor to make this good.


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## TarheelGC (Jan 23, 2019)

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=bURHQTJiTlloMjlXdVNWYmZaRFpIRWhKUy0wRERn


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## TarheelGC (Jan 23, 2019)

TNTRenovate said:


> I wouldn't worry about damaging the redguard. I would just keep the substrate in mind. You are going to reapply any way. Remove the side tiles first with a 4" knife or as Mark suggested a 10-1.
> 
> My concern is that you know some specifics, but lack the knowledge to remove a few tiles or what a 10-1 tool is. I would suggest hiring a tile contractor to make this good.


Thank you for your concern.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

After looking at the pic briefly...

I might try to save all that adjacent wall tile, and possibly also the edge profile (but not sure about that from the pic..seems not too tight) 

You might want to grind the tiles in question, as you were thinking, piece them out, etc. before trying to remove the edge profile, just to be safe.

And if you were just going to reslope the "floor" of the niche, cut it, grind it, piece it, chip it out carefully, etc. dremel with some harbor freight grinding discs or see what they have with diamond burrs, since they're cheap there..... You could even put a block of wood in there to protect the niche back wall, and use a hammer drill to bust it up a little bit.


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## TarheelGC (Jan 23, 2019)

TNTRenovate said:


> I wouldn't worry about damaging the redguard. I would just keep the substrate in mind. You are going to reapply any way. Remove the side tiles first with a 4" knife or as Mark suggested a 10-1.
> 
> My concern is that you know some specifics, but lack the knowledge to remove a few tiles or what a 10-1 tool is. I would suggest hiring a tile contractor to make this good.


Mark, the floor of the niche slopes 1/8" the right way. The shelf slopes the same to the back of the niche. Instead of the supporting the niche "ceiling" with the side tiles, he set the side tiles first, then did the top tile and cut pieces of tile to hold it up, thus smushing the middle shelf. 

The middle shelf is a sandwich of 2 pieces of tile. When it is reworked, I'll cut plastic shims to keep the shelf top tile and bottom tile properly spaced from some plastic precast concrete shims I've got.

The perimeter Schluter and perimeter tile cuts are a little rough, especially at the top left. 

Thanks!

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=NVNIeFdNZzYyWFIwdnQ1T0dUS0NUUGI4RWtNNTdB


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

TarheelGC said:


> Mark, the floor of the niche slopes 1/8" the right way. The shelf slopes the same to the back of the niche. Instead of the supporting the niche "ceiling" with the side tiles, he set the side tiles first, then did the top tile and cut pieces of tile to hold it up, thus smushing the middle shelf.
> 
> 1/8" would be too much for a niche. The sides (legs) also don't need to "support" the top (header) tile. The thinset will do the holding. It wasn't the order he laid the tile, but that they didn't wait for the middle tile to set or it wasn't properly supported while it set.
> 
> ...


It's definitely not the worst job I have seen but it is pretty rough. But this is often the case when contractors beat others up on price or select a lower bid. I am not saying that's what you did, but you get what you pay for.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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