# Ditra & Schluter Metal Edge



## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

Hello.

I have never used Ditra in combination with the Schluter metal edges. I have a couple of questions.

Does the Ditra sit on top of the schluter metal edge, or vice versa?

I haven't worked with ditra much. It is for a small tile job, tile being laid over concrete. I need to have the decorative schluter edge around the perimeter, and I don't know how to use these 2 products together.

I would greatly appreciate it if someone would help me out with these concerns. 

Thank you in advance.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Profile sits on top of Ditra. If you didn't do it that way, the profile edge would be lower than the tile edge.


----------



## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

Thank you Angus. That's kinda what I thought, but I wasn't sure.


----------



## HS345 (Jan 20, 2008)

Angus is correct, profile sits on top of the Ditra. But for the record, Schluter profiles should ideally sit flush, or just a scosh *below* the tile. 



> Solidly embed the tiles so that the tiled surface is flush with the top of the profile; the profile should not be higher than the tiled surface, but rather up to approx. 1/32" (1 mm) lower.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

No doubt Greg but if you have any "issues" and the profile can't match (or get close) the tile edge, it's all bad. I usually order profile 1 size thicker than the tile so I have room to adjust.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

angus242 said:


> No doubt Greg but if you have any "issues" and the profile can't match (or get close) the tile edge, it's all bad. I usually order profile 1 size thicker than the tile so I have room to adjust.


That is the best way Angus.

Often these Scluter edges look horrible on drywall since the tile guy builds up a 1/4" of thin-set and the profile bottom needs too be chaulk'd to the wall.

Better to set a 5/8" profile tight to the drywall and use the face edge as your guide up the wall.

Or skip the profile all together and fur out the drywall so it meets flush to the tile.

Any of you guys seen the line "Butech" from the PORCELANOSA company


----------



## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

Thanks again guys for the good info.


----------



## HS345 (Jan 20, 2008)

JohnFRWhipple said:


> Or skip the profile all together and fur out the drywall so it meets flush to the tile.


That would be impractical in the extreme under most circumstances. Not to mention, expensive.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

HS345 said:


> That would be impractical in the extreme under most circumstances. Not to mention, expensive.


Impractical in many set ups true if there is a window or door casing to deal with but easy as pie on most other walls.

Expensive is not the case. We furred out the wall studs with off cuts from the 5/8" sheathing. Took about 5 minutes to buck up some strips and another 20 to install them. Cost me $11.00 in labour - I had David do it.

So really it is is cheaper than buying a Schluter edge and the end result will look way better.... :clap:


----------



## HS345 (Jan 20, 2008)

JohnFRWhipple said:


> Impractical in many set ups true if there is a window or door casing to deal with but easy as pie on most other walls.
> 
> Expensive is not the case. We furred out the wall studs with off cuts from the 5/8" sheathing. Took about 5 minutes to buck up some strips and another 20 to install them. Cost me $11.00 in labour - I had David do it.
> 
> So really it is is cheaper than buying a Schluter edge and the end result will look way better.... :clap:


Sorry John, that's a rather simplistic explanation that I don't buy for a second. You're simply not factoring in everything required to achieve such an installation. I personally don't think it would be a good look. Do you have some pics of this installation?

Having said that, I only use Schluter profiles on wall applications if no other option is available. I prefer bullnose, or some sort of other trim tile. I do use the Schluter Schiene for floor applications often.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Couple of prep pictures here.

We used Green EBoard as a backer board and regular drywall outside the wet zone. This regular drywall is installed over 5/8" sheathing.

This will allow the 3/8" tile to be set flush with the drywall.

The glass panels will cover the seam between tile and drywall and the net result will be a flush wall.

This not only looks better than a Schluter metal edge it makes the installation of Crown Molding easier as well and further reduces the overall renovation costs and again makes for a smarter looking result.

JW

I love the Schluter profiles - don't get me wrong. Here is a look at our last linear slot drain we framed out with a double Jolly Detail. :clap:


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Greg on this linear drain install we have a barrier free set up.

The glass door will be hinged on the entry wall and the distance to the hardwood is about 4-5".

I asked my setter to install a third Schluter Metal Edge at the end of the flat tile and ask him to set the sloped tile with a hair of lippage.

Hard to see in these pictures but the tile on the slope is about a penny thickness lower than the rest of the bathroom.

Not much of a dam but these little dams can do wonders for holding back water.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

A few seamless wall transitions.

Here is a look at tile to wall (Seamless) No Metal Schluter Edge and a medicine cabinet with no trim.

The seamless look is in and adding in a basic profile is not always the best approach.

We have another project on the go in False Creek and it will have regular Schluter profiles since adding blocking to 3 walls and the ceiling would have made a tiny bathroom even smaller and we spend the budget on the Steamer upgrade!


----------



## Beanfacekilla (May 19, 2011)

That stuff looks really good John! Thanks for posting those pics.


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Here is a picture sent to me from Peter at Mountain View Tile.

He used 1/2" spacers on this project and killed the tile install.


----------



## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

JohnFRWhipple said:


> Here is a picture sent to me from Peter at Mountain View Tile.
> 
> He used 1/2" spacers on this project and killed the tile install.


That does look murdered. But damnit if it doesn't have one of those drains that backs up and floods. :laughing:


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Morning Wood said:


> That does look murdered. But damnit if it doesn't have one of those drains that backs up and floods. :laughing:


:laughing:

One of the many tile top installs that are working great.

JW


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

My finish carpenter was by yesterday and shot on the crown molding.

Here is a look.

I used some Ram Board to shim the tile off a hair so I could slide in my L Bead.

JW


----------



## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Is that crown vinyl? I really like that corner niche. Very cool design!


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

ohiohomedoctor said:


> Is that crown vinyl? I really like that corner niche. Very cool design!


The crown is MDF. I had the clients paint all sides prior to Victor showing up.

Typically brining crown into a shower is a tough detail. Most times you see it and the tile comes proud of the bottom lip. Or you see another 1/2"x4" board pinned to the bottom first.

Removing the Schluter profile and having the tile flush with the wall eliominates this and makes for a sharper look.

All it took was some scrap 5/8" sheathing and we had loads left over after we prepped up the shower for a curbless install.

JW


----------

