# re: hardwood floor oil based polyurethanes and stains



## ahava (Apr 28, 2010)

*re: hardwood floor oil based polyurethanes and stains*

I am curious to find out which brands/products has anyone had good success with using oil based floor stains, and oil based polyurethanes.

also who makes garbage products, so I know who to stay away from? I want good quality stuff on this job.

I have an account with SW, but I am always hesitant to try their stuff that doesn't go on walls.

-a


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Not a lot of big differences in the oil urethanes. Lower end ones seem to dry slower, build quicker and have ambering agents that sit in scratches more like a pigment than a dye (Pro Finisher Home depot). Higher end ones seem to dry quick (lots of solvents but less solids so they don't build as big and may require an extra coat depending on your taste). 

The biggest difference I've seen is in sheens. One man's satin is another man's matte. And you can't really tell on a 2x2 board. You just have to lay it out in the room and see how it looks.

In the past I was using Advantage but my supplier quit carrying it. Now I'm on to Glitsa Oil and it's a good mid range oil. I don't like to pay over 30 for an oil urethane. Used the 50 a gallon stuff like minwax diamond and it didn't seem better but it's been a long time since I've used that product and that was when I was starting out and not too savvy.

Just gotta try on a couple hundred floors and you'll learn what you like.


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

*Hardwood Floor Oil Based Polyurethanes And Stains*

*Hardwood Floor Oil Based Polyurethanes And Stains*

Q: I am curious to find out which brands/products has anyone had good success with using oil based floor stains, and oil based polyurethanes.


A: This is a very timely question for me as well since I have finished setting my hardwood floor (only in one room) and have been looking for a good Oil Based Polyurethane that will amber in time and give me that classic look I'm after.

I went down to my favourite paint supplier (Cloverdale Paint) and spoke with their painting experts and asked why I can't find Polyurethane's anymore.

It appears that back on January 7, 2009 in the Canada Gazette Part II Vol 143, No. 20 it outlines what the VOC content of paints ands stain could be. Many oils and stains didn't make the cut and now are no longer allowed by law in Canada to be sold and used. Paint companies had till last September (2011) to comply. 

I'm all for lower VOC's but with my hardwood floors I really wanted a hard finish that will amber with time. I find that the water based finishes just don't give the same look nor do they have the same durability.

Here is what I brought home to try.

Cloverdale Timberlox Exterior Super Spar Varnish High Gloss

*Product Description*

"Timberlox Super Spar Varnish Alkyd High Gloss is a transparent high gloss varnish specially formulated for use in harsh marine and exterior environments. It contains an Ultra-Violet light absorber for extended life. It is ideally suited for use on wood surfaces such as doors, trim, boat railings, exterior furniture, spars and boat decks. Approved by the Master Painter's Institute under category # 28." * Source

After reading through the safety data sheet there seems to be a lot to look out for but I'm willing to take all the safety precautions to try this out. The VOC content in this Spar Varnish is <450 g/L right at the maximum allowed by current codes. The key change to the reformulation of this product was the introduction of Tung Oil. Tung Oil if my training was correct is the binding agent in the finish.

I did a drag down sample on my floors and it looks great.

Now to finish the last few boards and start finishing this bathroom. My wife wants the powder room ready by Christmas and time is running out.

JW


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## ahava (Apr 28, 2010)

I live in toronto, so I am also tied to the chemical restrictions which I have noticed in many other products in other applications that just are not sold here anymore. It will force the market to develop better stuff, but during the transition, we may be stuck with products that don't perform.

have you just tried timberlox for the first time or have you used it before?


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

ahava said:


> I live in toronto, so I am also tied to the chemical restrictions which I have noticed in many other products in other applications that just are not sold here anymore. It will force the market to develop better stuff, but during the transition, we may be stuck with products that don't perform.
> 
> have you just tried timberlox for the first time or have you used it before?


I have not used it but am always impressed with the quality of the Cloverdale Paints. I'll give it a try and let you know how it preforms.

The fact that it is suitable for boat decks is the one point I'm loving most. That and it is amber in colour and gives me the look with hopefully the wear.

I understand lots of the movie crews are using amber shellac and then clear coats. If I do not like this Spar varnish I will try this route next.


JW


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## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

We use Bona Woodline for oil poly and have had very good luck with it.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Fabulon..


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## KCProjects (Dec 9, 2010)

Varathane, used it a couple of weeks ago and was very happy with the product, 3 coats, looks great!!


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

I've tried more brands than I can remember. It just boils down to preference. The best way to get there is by trying and working them. glitsa, fabulon, and bona are all quality finishes. 

Best bet is to do what JW did, and head down to your flooring supplier. Having a favorite is great, but having the support of a brand is important. Being able to call the supplier and having the local rep/claim guy on site in a day or less is something to consider.

For stain, I use minwax.


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## ahava (Apr 28, 2010)

I think i am going with BONA-traffic. for the finish. it seems many competitors offer it as an upgrade. it must be for a reason.
for the stain. undecided at this point.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

ahava said:


> I think i am going with BONA-traffic. for the finish. it seems many competitors offer it as an upgrade. it must be for a reason.
> for the stain. undecided at this point.


^^^^^is water based, your original question was about "Oil based":whistling


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## ahava (Apr 28, 2010)

that is true, I defaulted to oil. but I have done some reading based on the info given here. I haven't realized how far some water based poly formulaes over the last few years.


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Sanding today and tomorrow.










I'm thinking about Deft Natural stain first. How many of you guys stain before finishing? The finish looks good with not stain but I thought it might help the look.

JW


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Filling the whole floor and not just the nail columns would be advisable imho. A filled floor has the wood grain filled throughout; begs the question a little I suppose. Takes the finish a little more evenly, sands smoother (the water in the filler gives a little water pop effect) and is ultimately faster than trying to just fill in the spots 'that need it' because you will invariably find a few spots you missed and some gaps in the boards and then you have to go through pulling out the sander and the vacuum and the tack cloth etc...


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Metro M & L said:


> Filling the whole floor and not just the nail columns would be advisable imho...


We did fill the whole floor first and then sanded. I noticed the nail heads had slight shallow spots and we plan to sand ( w/ the edger) once more before bringing out the large sanding machine.

I was wondering if I should have just done the whole floor.

JW


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Saw your stain coat in the other section and it looks great!


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

Status update. These floors have been sanded down to 100 grit with the edger and the larger upright orbital. I went over and hit the inside corners with my random orbital and once touch up gave the entire floor a once over with 150.

I used a rag with a little water to raise the grain and applied a light coat of Watco "Golden Oak". It looks great. I'm going to apply the first coat of Spar Varnish tonight before supper.

When doing my custom wood transitions and such here I never sand between the stain coat and first topping coat. I will give the floor a sand between each finish coat and insure a good dry time is reached between these steps.

On my final sand I noticed a few nail heads that needed to be set. I think I will catch these up between the 1st and 2nd finish coat.


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## tom wentzwood (Dec 12, 2011)

Wow many types of finishes l like durasea oil my self water born ill go with street shoe .good luck www.wentzwood.com


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## nymasterfloors (Jan 28, 2011)

I use absco for oil and bona for water base had gd success with both only cant get a gd sheen out of water poly


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## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

I put the first coat of Super Spar Varnish on tonight. I got side track with work so my first step (Watco Golden Oak) got to dry out over a week. In the end I decided to sand between this coat and the first Varnish coat. I used 400 grit and then some tack cloth.



















The Varnish was very easy to work with.










Two more coats and then I can wrap up this powder room.

JW


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