# Claw tub and new tile floor installtion



## rservices (Aug 3, 2005)

I'm helping a friend with a bathroom tile floor install (currently vinyl with a masonite subfloor)) and we want to tile. The house is 119 years old and my concern is the weight of the weight of this tub (cast iron) and how it may affect the tile where the legs of the claw tub my have on the tile.

i'm thinking it may be best to just pull the tub and upgrade to a standard tub.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

rservices said:


> I'm helping a friend with a bathroom tile floor install (currently vinyl with a masonite subfloor)) and we want to tile. The house is 119 years old and my concern is the weight of the weight of this tub (cast iron) and how it may affect the tile where the legs of the claw tub my have on the tile.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




You need to check the floor joists size and span to determine if they meet your deflection needs. L/360 is the minimum but natural stone for example would need higher.

Once that is confirmed, remove the vinyl and Masonite. Check the subfloor and see if it is thick enough or if you need another layer over top.

Install your underlayment of choice (Ditra is great) and tile. A properly set tile will 90+ percent coverage of mortar will have no problem supporting the tub.

Keep in mind all the weight is being transferred to four points.


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## LI-Remodeler (Feb 3, 2015)

I work on older homes on a regular bases and have installed many freestanding tubs most cast ranging in weight from 350 - 500 and filled to capacity tops the scale well over half ton. 


By the time I come in to remodel these older homes there have been numerous remodels before me and most if not all are questionable at best.

It's my rule that all floors must be ripped down to expose floor joists and I can't think of any job were we didn't add additional joists/support. Keep in mind we demo all the plumbing and electrical and anything else in our way we will either relocate, disconnect and reconnect. Either way it's a project but leaves no questions about floor deflection requirements.


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## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

http://www.barclayproducts.com/shop...double-slipper-tub-69-white-with-7-rim-holes/

Cast iron is too heavy to carry anyway


Gary


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## LI-Remodeler (Feb 3, 2015)

gbruzze1 said:


> http://www.barclayproducts.com/shop...double-slipper-tub-69-white-with-7-rim-holes/
> 
> Cast iron is too heavy to carry anyway
> 
> ...


I totally agree and I'll always push towards the Acrylic but when they come back from the show room and find out what they selected it is what it is.

I will say this, (and the clients are very aware of it) if they select cast iron there is an additional charge for moving it from the lift gate to the bathroom.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

So there's a clawfoot tub already in there? Then keep it and don't overthink. As long as the floor isn't bouncy or anything. A full tub with occupant will put about 250 lbs on each foot. Think of it this way: if you jumped up and down on a 1/2 nut, would you hurt the tile? Probably not.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

MarkJames said:


> So there's a clawfoot tub already in there? Then keep it and don't overthink. Jack it up in place, prep, and get those tiles set under the feet. The tile will be fine. You could do one side at a time (two feet at a time), so that you ensure good contact with all 4 feet when you're done.
> 
> Or move it, tile, move it back, be done with it.


The time it takes for the 1st 2 tiles to fully cure, to allow the point loads to stand, on would probably be 3 days if tile is over ditra, add 3 more days to do last 2 feet. And it still my break because you did not remove existing masonite and vinyl.

I have seen a few cracked tiles under cast iron footed tubs that were not done properly.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

rrk said:


> The time it takes for the 1st 2 tiles to fully cure, to allow the point loads to stand, on would probably be 3 days if tile is over ditra, add 3 more days to do last 2 feet. And it still my break because you did not remove existing masonite and vinyl.
> 
> I have seen a few cracked tiles under cast iron footed tubs that were not done properly.


We just installed a claw foot cast iron tub on a bath renovation. Pulled existing floor out, Ditra and tile over it. Let it set for 4 - 5 days before we set the tub.

It's certainly not something I'd want to mess around with ways to cut corners. Pull the tub, do the floor right, put the tub back.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> You need to check the floor joists size and span to determine if they meet your deflection needs. L/360 is the minimum but natural stone for example would need higher.
> 
> Once that is confirmed, remove the vinyl and Masonite. Check the subfloor and see if it is thick enough or if you need another layer over top.
> 
> ...


L/720 for natural. L/360 for ceramic and porcelain, but studies are showing that even L/360 may not be adequate for ceramic and porcelain.

You could install harder stone tile on an L/360, but I wouldn't.


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