# Power Washers



## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

I noticed an oil slick under my pressure washer today. Maybe I spilled more gas than I thought?  Nope. All the oil went out. Engine seized up. So I need a new machine quick. 

I'm a handyman, so I do a lot of other stuff too, but I definitely get use out of my power washer. I don't mind paying more if it'll last longer or make my day go faster. 

Been working with a Home Depot machine. 3000 PSI. 2.5 GPM. It lasted me 4 years, though I did have to change the pump once. I was pretty happy with it. 

I'm wondering, though, if there is a big difference if I switch to a Dewalt or one of those mity M machines they sell at Sherwin-Williams. 

What should I pick up?


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

First of all , get a pressure washer that automatically shuts itself off if the engine is low on oil. :whistling


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Or get an electric one.


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## tccoggs (Dec 17, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> Or get an electric one.


I think the downsides of not being fully portable probably make this no viable for most purposes as well as the fact that you need a pretty large electric circuit to produce nearly the same amount of power as with a small gasoline engine.

Electric probably more appropriate for on premise use where its used over and over again and provisioning a circuit is worthwhile.


After blowing up a briggs engine and an AR pump, the only things original about my washer are the frame, hose and wand. I have a Predator Engine from HFT (Actually runs better than the Briggs it came with) and a Mi-T-M pump. So far its working great, not that I use it a ton as a painter might, but it sees quite a bit of use. 

Mi-T-M and Landa both make good pro grade washers.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

the Predator is a Honda clone..and a good one at that:thumbsup:


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## carzie (May 21, 2013)

Or just change the engine


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

Nah, I'm not really that worried about running out of oil going forward. I think some seal or something blew and that machine would have been pretty much done anyway. I'm not going to order parts and rent a machine. Easier to just replace it and maybe even upgrade. 

I'm just trying to figure out the difference between a pro-grade machine and consumer grade. I was just talking to the Mi TM guy at the SW pro show. He sure couldn't explain why his machine deserved the price tag. 

I'm looking at this Generac one as well:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_600020-24212-6602___?productId=50176307&pl=1&Ntt=generac#BVRRWidgetID

Amazing reviews. But it looks pretty gimmicky.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Buy one that will last this time. I own a Simpson Pressure washer with a Honda engine and it's lasted me over 10 years now! I just change out the pump fluid and oil every so often. Honda engines last forever, not so with Koehler and other brand engines.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=623639-93684-ALH3425&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=50329807&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Or this one:

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=393709-93684-MSH3125-S&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3665070&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Ya, that one you linked to looks more the type for a homeowner. Not professional grade at all.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

I can't recall for sure but I remember feeling the ones at Sherwin Williams were very pricey. For the most part you will end up with a briggs or honda engine and Cat pump, get the biggest machine you can afford and belt driven if you can afford the extra $300 or $400. Some machines have a steel frame, pressure washers use ...... water, get an aluminum frame model. Cat makes Cat pumps, Honda makes Honda engines, throw that combo on any aluminum frame and I don't really care whose name is on it. 
I purchased this one from this place probably over 5 years ago. http://store.spraymallstore.com/e413hocatpu4.html
Great machine that we racked up hundreds or hours on. 
Recently while browsing on craigslist I found the same machine but belt driven and almost brand new for a really good price so that is now my primary machine and I keep the other for back up. 
I would never do less than a 3.5-4 gpm unit, would go bigger but after 4 gpm they get very expensive and then you have a lot of other things to worry about (like water supply) and we just don't do that much concrete cleaning.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Ya, I noticed both Simpson units I linked to were both 2.5 GPM. My old Simpson still going strong was 3 GPM. It does ok for house washing and light blasting. It was fairly light to load into my truck and move around on jobs. I think my old Simpson 3000 psi 3 GPM cost $1200 back then. I got it as a paint store rental unit refurbished for $800. You might want to explore that angle.

Additionally, it's not the pressure, it's the water output. You earn more by being able to move along faster with higher GPM. Consider getting a 3 GPM or higher unit, especially if you get a job removing mold, algae and mildew off glazed tiled roofs (or algae-mildew covered brick/concrete patios), which I've done OK but wished it put out more than 3 GPM. It went kinda slow blasting algae-mildew off those roofs and patios, square inch by square inch.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

It seems like all the machines that have more than 2.5 GPM also have high PSI. That machine SuperiorHIP linked to looks sweet. I'm loving the 4.0 GPM. But what if you just have to wash a deck or some vinyl siding? Can you dial that 4000 PSI down? 

Too expensive for me anyway. I'm thinking maybe $700 to $800.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

You can turn the pressure down using the black handle on the unloader. I always leave mine turned all the way up, I control my pressure with fan size and distance. I do have 3 different sets of tips with varying orifice sizes which give me a pressure range of 4000 down to around 800.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

instock said:


> It seems like all the machines that have more than 2.5 GPM also have high PSI. That machine SuperiorHIP linked to looks sweet. I'm loving the 4.0 GPM. But what if you just have to wash a deck or some vinyl siding? Can you dial that 4000 PSI down?
> 
> Too expensive for me anyway. I'm thinking maybe $700 to $800.


That's the price jump - you get much more productivity with the higher GPM, but they go into the higher pressure range, so they cost more and have bigger engines. Loading them in and out the back of a truck solo can be a chore. IMO anything less than 2600PSI and 2.5GPM isn't worth hooking a hose up to for a lot of applications, an a 4GPM machine will run circles around those.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

I think they jump to around $2500 for much over 4 gpm too but boy would a 6-8 gpm machine be nice!


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

Lowes had that $700 Simpson machine in stock. I pulled the trigger on it. No pun intended. Thanks for all the words of wisdom!

Holy crap. That thing is a monster. =D


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Congrats, should serve you well. First thing I do to my machines if they don't come that way is to put a quick connect chemical injector, nothing can kill a job like a screwed up chem injector. I keep a few spares in the truck, one goes out its as simple as popping a new one on.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

instock said:


> Lowes had that $700 Simpson machine in stock. I pulled the trigger on it. No pun intended. Thanks for all the words of wisdom!
> 
> Holy crap. That thing is a monster. =D


Congrats on your new toy. An extension wand will extend your reach. The wand that comes with it is OK but a bit short. I'd consider buying a 31" wand at Lowe's and using that as your default wand. I use that as my default wand and also own a 48" wand. They aren't that expensive. I use the short wand like your default one for patios and the like. You'll find the default wand a bit short for pressure washing structures.

I bet when you got it, you had to find something to water blast, ha...same here.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

SuperiorHIP said:


> I purchased this one from this place probably over 5 years ago. http://store.spraymallstore.com/e413hocatpu4.html


I rented one that size for the purpose of sandblasting. 
I practically had a hernia unloading and loading it. 
Yes, you can sandblast with bigger pressure washers. It's akin to chemical injection, only you take a tubular spike and spike it into 90 lb. bags of sand. It draws up sand with the water to the sandblaster tip. It worked pretty well on a Mexican type stucco house with loads of old paint on it.

Still, it was a bit slow going...square foot by square foot. It was cheaper than renting a huge sandblasting unit tho, which would have been prohibitively expensive.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

One thing I always find myself wanting is a little stubby wand. Sometimes I want to do something right in front of my face at the top of a ladder. Or pull back a bush with one hand and reach in with the other hand. 

I'm wondering about the throttle too. My old machine didn't have one. Do I just run it at full throttle all the time?


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Always full throttle. Be very careful with a short wand, you can literally rip the flesh right off your body. I have 2 and 3 footers, a 24 foot extension wand, and a soap tip that will shoot chemical around 30 feet. I try my best to stay off of ladders when pressure washing if possible.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

Yeah. I learned the hard way not to put body parts in front of the pressure washer. One time, I was "curious" and put my thumb right in front of it on purpose. Doh. And that was only 2700 PSI. 

With your machine, SuperiorHIP, staying off ladders is probably a good idea. That's gotta kick like a mule. 

Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to tame my machine down. I'm thinking about getting some larger orifice tips, but should I go to a 4 or a 7? It seems like a lot of trial and error.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Here is a chart that will show you. http://www.ultimatewasher.com/nozzles-size-pressure-washer.htm


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

SuperiorHIP said:


> You can turn the pressure down using the black handle on the unloader. I always leave mine turned all the way up, I control my pressure with fan size and distance. I do have 3 different sets of tips with varying orifice sizes which give me a pressure range of 4000 down to around 800.


It's not a good idea to adjust the pressure via unloader, (that little black handle). Ask any professional pressure cleaner and they'll tell you that pressure is controlled by tip use. Unless you really know what you're doing, adjusting the unloader can harm the pump.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

...


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

I try and stay off ladders with my Landa. A 15 or 20 foot extension wand is great for high places. It is a bit of an adventure using it, but it is better than blowing yourself off the ladder.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

How do you use a 20 foot wand? Doesn't the water just shoot up? Or do you have a knuckle at the tip to turn the water back toward the wall? Yee-haw! That sounds like a rodeo.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Yeah 3000psi 3gpm on a 10ft wand is a hand full. 20ft got to be crazy hard to control.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

You can't do squat off a ladder any way - too close to the wall, small area coverage, too much up and down. Plus they get slippery when wet.:whistling


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

I took it out for the second job today. It took me about 50 pulls to get it started. Finally got it started and then it stalls out every 2 minutes and it's backfiring. I had to pack it up and was unable to do the job. 

I called up the phone number and I got some clueless girl asking me if I read the manual. 

We did get some heavy burst of rain today. Maybe some water got in the gas or something? 

The whole point of paying twice as much was to get something that would run like a tank! This is not what I had in mind.


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

instock said:


> I took it out for the second job today. It took me about 50 pulls to get it started. Finally got it started and then it stalls out every 2 minutes and it's backfiring. I had to pack it up and was unable to do the job.
> 
> I called up the phone number and I got some clueless girl asking me if I read the manual.
> 
> ...


Is it backfiring while running or after you shut it off? Is is stalling more or less when you're pulling the trigger? Are you pulling the trigger while trying to start it?

Backfire is most commonly due to:
-lowering throttle speed too fast. 
-carburetor running too lean. 
-too much alcohol in fuel
-engine running too hot.

If you haven't already tried it, try throttling down before you shut it off and make sure you've already turned the gas off. After it's completely off, pull trigger again to release pressure. When you try to start it, (after turning gas & choke on), make sure and keep the trigger pulled. 

The only other thing I could think of would be an unloader issue, but I know you said it's new.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

It didn't really backfire while it was running. I guess just when it died or when I was trying to start it. 

I didn't notice any stalling when I was NOT pulling the trigger. I pretty much keep the trigger pressed as much as possible to avoid overheating. 
It just crapped out mid-stream. 

I don't necessarily hold the trigger while I'm trying to start. It's easier to relieve the pressure just before I yank the cord. But today, I tried it both ways. 

SuperiorHIP said "always full throttle", so that's what I've been doing. Should I start it on a low throttle?


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

instock said:


> It didn't really backfire while it was running. I guess just when it died or when I was trying to start it.
> 
> I didn't notice any stalling when I was NOT pulling the trigger. I pretty much keep the trigger pressed as much as possible to avoid overheating.
> It just crapped out mid-stream.
> ...


No. SuperiorHIP is absolutely right about starting it at full throttle. The only time you want to lower the throttle is about 10-15 seconds before you're ready to stop the engine. Turn off gas, then lower throttle, let it run for 10-15 seconds before shutting it down. It will start to sputter as the gas is burned off, (which is a good thing). Makes it much easier to start next time around.

Did you adjust the unloader at all?


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

I shouldn't have mentioned using the unloader to adjust pressure, you can do it that way but unless you have a pressure gauge on the output you can't be sure your not getting pressure spikes by going too far when you turn it back up (I forget the allowable pressure spike when you release the trigger, something like 5 or 10% of operating pressure). This is why I said I have 3 sets of tips going up to I think #8.

We had trouble with our machine a few times, I will tell you the same thing I tell my guy who has broken my pull cord no less than a dozen times. If it doesn't start after a few pulls something is wrong and generally continuously yanking on the pull cord with only successfully give a good workout. First thing I would do is drain all gas (fuel bowl too) and put fresh gas and check the oil, see if that gets it going. You have a new machine but if it wasn't I would also recommend pulling the plug and inspecting it and making sure you have spark.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

Yep. I'll try some different gas in there and try that shutdown technique. 

I don't have an adjustment on the unloader.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

After use and for storing, I siphon out any remaining gas from the tank and unscrew the bottom screw on the carb to let the remaining gas drain out. I also use STA-BIL gas additive in my storage gas.


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## instock (Nov 17, 2012)

New gas seems to help. Apparently it's a little finicky. The lawn mower and blower and stuff have no problem with that gas. :blink:


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

instock said:


> New gas seems to help.


Thank u very fart.


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

It seems to help or it fixed the problem??? If it isn't running right return it!


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## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

BCConstruction said:


> Or get an electric one.


I bought an electric one from wal-mart one time... and FFFUUUUU!!!


What a waste of money.. I wanted to chuck it off the mountain side property I was on...


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