# How to V-notch a baluster?



## BuiltByMAC (Mar 11, 2006)

Bottom rail has a shallow V in top, that means balusters must be cut w/ the corresponding V in their bottom end to sit down properly.
Table saw, clamping several balusters at a time, two cuts... been mentioned above, seems like the easiest method.
What holds the balusters to the rail? Not joinery, just screws. The V cut will prevent the balusters from turning.

The mortise and tenon joinery is great and all but completely impractical in this application.
1. Would take forever. Depending on lineal footage of handrail, that would be a deal breaker.
2. Introduces multiple rot points. Every mortise would hold water and rot out quickly.

I'm amazed at how much info ya'll extrapolated from that one pic!

Mac


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Mac,*

Look closer- no V in that baluster,,,, I am just going by the props the OP put up
Brian


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

Hey Brian,

The pic is a little misleading now that I look at it closer. It almost looks like there's a notch in the rail and the baluster is straight cut. Anyhow, it is indeed like Mac describes, and for the reasons he states. 

BTW, the top rail is grooved and has fillets to lock in the baluster and stop it from twisting. Does that eliminate all movement for the life of the rail? No. Mother nature has a way winning that battle every time . But it does accomplish what is the biggest problem with a lot of deck rails and that is to prevent rot.

Thanks to all for the suggestions! 

Given that these are about 32" long, would you create a sled if you were going to use a table saw?

(EDIT: never mind I noticed a sled was already mentioned...)


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## Rustbucket (May 22, 2009)

I wouldn't bother with a sled. I would just screw a long fence onto a miter gauge. You could either make it long enough to register the final length of the ballister using a stop block, or use a shorter one that just gives support to the stock, and use a block on the leading end of the fence to register the cut. Either way would work.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

I'm all for the cms method, simply because it's easier to do high count multiples. Once set up, you could easily cut 6 or so at a time. If your concerned about getting the lths accurate, cut the bottoms first, & then cut to lth. That way there's less chance of kindling scraps!

edit:
I Missed Tomr's earlier post...I agree with him!
Joe


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

We don't do a ton of porch rails, but when we do, we always seal the bottoms with acrylic latex caulk before assembly. It slows down the wicking greatly!
Joe


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## tcleve4911 (Mar 26, 2006)

Just ran across this post

*Built a sled*










*Just my 'ol Rousseau jobsite saw......*


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