# working myself to death...need advice please



## 375RGR (Feb 13, 2008)

http://www.cgcinc.com/pdf/brochure/EJC_0J38_09.pdf

What is the difference between this and brown bag durabond?

Can you get this in the US?


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

375RGR said:


> http://www.cgcinc.com/pdf/brochure/EJC_0J38_09.pdf
> 
> What is the difference between this and brown bag durabond?
> 
> Can you get this in the US?


ar you talking about the OLd and I mean 30 years ago durabond that required a belt sander to sand. I HATE tha sh*t always have and always will. easy sand or gauging plaster on the other hand is good.


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## bh54 (Jun 3, 2009)

it is very strange to me that you cant find concrete fill every single taper i know has a bag of it in thier truck most drywall contractors when they load material on a job site have a bag of it deleivered we use it to pre fill / we use it when we are matching old drywall to new/ if you have a basd butt it levels it/ and making ruff surfaces smooth trust me there is not a taper in victoria that does not use this product??


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## bh54 (Jun 3, 2009)

]it is very strange to me that you cant find concrete fill every single taper i know has a bag of it in thier truck most drywall contractors when they load material on a job site have a bag of it deleivered we use it to pre fill / we use it when we are matching old drywall to new/ if you have a basd butt it levels it/ and making ruff surfaces smooth trust me there is not a taper in victoria that does not use this product??[/quote]


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## 375RGR (Feb 13, 2008)

When you say Victoria, are you talking Victoria, BC?


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## Darwin (Apr 7, 2009)

remodeljunkie said:


> Not only am I running a fledgling remodel company (2 Employees) but Im going at it with limited experience in the drywall area. My experience in painting and trim carpentry have duped me into believing I was ready to tackle anything, unfortunately my first three jobs have included bringing old walls back to near perfect condition because of particular paint schemes (satin,eggshells,and a first for me-Brilliant Metals<--a semi-gloss based nightmare, anyway my question is *...am I killing myself by perscribing complete wall skimming for wallpaper damaged walls? *What are the alternatives if any and how can I ensure that my pricing is consistent with the man hours this requires. My labor cost for painting is set to include minor patching but this process sometimes requires 2 to 3 trips through a room to get the results were looking for...please tell me theres a better way besides replacing all the sheetrock.


To get nicked up, badly damaged walls in shape-you gotta skim coat. Otherwise all imperfections will show through the new paint. It should take you almost the same amount of time to skimcoat as it would take to systematically patch and repair each and every little spot on the wall. Without skimcoating, consistency in the overall appearance of the wall's smoothness would be lost.

The way I do it is:
1. Patch and sand bad areas.
2. Skimcoat all walls with compound, then sponge sand.
3. Prime and paint.

_p.s. If you don't know how many man hours to charge, do a test wall at home. Take a tool and mar up a wall. Then track the time involved from start to finish. Good luck._


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## bh54 (Jun 3, 2009)

yes i am in victoria bc and I just had another thought as to how you might find concrete fill they use either this product or concrete seal over concrete ceilings in high rises before they are either texured or painted now you could use con seal for what i have been saying as well although it does set up a little faster and is not as easy to trowel you would need a little more control woth your trowel however if you find out where plasters who work in these high rise get thier supplies you should be able to get both products from them hope this helps


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## 375RGR (Feb 13, 2008)

Thanks bh54, I am always looking for more efficient ways of doing things.


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## nEighter (Nov 24, 2008)

edit: sorry thought this was your other thread.. you really need to look into this setup.


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## DRC (Dec 4, 2008)

bh54,

Are you going for the record for longest run on sentence? It is insanely difficult to figure out what you are trying to say without punctuation.


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## bh54 (Jun 3, 2009)

so are u trying to help me wIth my punctuation and spelling or do u really want to learn some thing fro a master drywall finisher???


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## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

Just hit the "enter" key every couple of sentences, makes what you write much easier to read...

It's pretty easy to do.

I just did it again.


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## harris drywall (Feb 16, 2009)

*skimcoating old walls*

Concerning skim coats in a level 5 finish,i have a mark 4 graco that does and excellent job ,especially on old plastered walls here in the north east in maine.I used to roll on with roller and and skim close with 2 thin coats which works well,i like the idea of using a squeegee as well


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## Elite_Drywall (Feb 23, 2009)

Crock said:


> Dave,
> 
> I operated on your beliefs for years, but nobody could afford me to remove it and I would just lose out on the job entirely. So I sell knockdown over paper with no warranty now. If there is no sizing underneath. Peeps don't care anymore and the national average for folks staying in their home is around 5 years anyway.
> 
> FYI...I textured every square inch of my home four years ago over paper. No prob what so ever yet. Living room has seen three paint jobs over that period.


 
Wow Crock you are nothing but a crock of ****!! You are just a hack of all trades arent you. I thought you treated decks:no: I bet you are one of those unlisenced hacks who go around claiming to do evrything!!


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## DRC (Dec 4, 2008)

bh54 said:


> so are u trying to help me wIth my punctuation and spelling or do u really want to learn some thing fro a master drywall finisher???


I would love to learn something from a master drywall finisher. Do you know one?:w00t:

You did leave yourself open for that one. But seriously, I can't learn from you if I can't understand what you are trying to say.


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

The product we use is called Con-Fill and is made by synko...we use it when we have areas that are to big to fill with regular mud, or proset. It is a great product, and accepts the mud excellently. However it is much harder than normal mud, and one should be carefull as to how thick you put it on. It does sand , but with anything it does set very hard...but is sandable, takes a bit more than normal.
We use it also around tubs and showers...we will fill the gaps, tape and finish...

J


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## bh54 (Jun 3, 2009)

AARC TRY MISSING YOUR CONFILL WILL REGULAR MUD 70% MUD 30% CON FILL SANDS MUCH easier if you need to sand i scrap and go over it just as it sets up so you dont need to sand i think you will find it will also level walls or ceilings much better give it a try


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## CaseyJones (Jul 22, 2009)

*patch*

I assume you mean the Synko Cement Based Floor Patch? A mix of plaster and cement (with some adhesive). Has no sand or aggregate in it. I am going to try it.


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## bh54 (Jun 3, 2009)

casey nooooo what i am talking about is concrete fill it has nothing to do with concrete it is made by synko and it was first made to go over concrete lock walls they use it to go over concrete ceilings in high rises but it is not concrete or any thing like concrete it is a powder will fibers in it just as for it by name concrete fill i am so surprised that a lot of people on this site dont know of this product i dont know of any tapers that dont carry a bag of it with them we use it for lots of things best product i have ever used if you use it right


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## Static Design (Nov 30, 2008)

Take a damn picture of the bag so we can see what you're talking about.


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