# Bowing basement wall



## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

I've got a customer who has a cinder block foundation. The basement wall is visibly bowing in at about chest height. There is a visible horizontal crack running the length of one wall between two rows of block, and when you sight down the wall, you can see the deformation of the wall (it's collapsing inward). 

He (and myself) are wondering what kind of bracing we can put in temporarily to buy him time until the exterior can be excavated and things made right (I'm assuming that is what needs to be done eventually). 

I was thinking I would bolt to the floor below and joists above, lengths of steel i-beam every four feet or so. That was just my initial brainstorm. I haven't thrown any ideas out to him yet. 


I've jacked up a couple houses and fixed sagging beams before, so I'm 100% confident I can do whatever needs to be done...I just want to make sure I'm on the right track here. 

Sorry, no pics. Phone battery was completely shot.


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## Framer53 (Feb 23, 2008)

I would brace it with 2x10's and forget about it until spring.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Im think lumber should be fine. Maybe tarp the outside to prevent frost heave

How tall is the wall? How much is under ground? Do you know what is causing this?


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

The wall is eight feet. I'd say all but a course or two are below grade. I haven't the slightest clue what's causing it. It's just as if the outside backfill is crushing in the house foundation. There's nothing outside except a ground level deck. 

What could be causing this? Just a quality control issue with the masonry work?


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

Lots of bowing walls around here. Don't worry about it until it is collapsing. From what I have observed, the failing walls are laid up without and horizontal reinforcement (durowall), no verical re-bar reinforcement or grouting, no plastering on the exterior, and no waterproofing on the exterior. I would be surprised if the outside joints are struck. Of course the walls don't have any tar or waterproofing on the exterior, and mostly the grade is draining towards the walls.

I have what I think is a good way to fix these. On the end walls, I would like to just go in and excavate out 8', then install a footing and build a wall alongside the existing wall, 6' from it. Then pour the floor, stabilize the house, demolish and re-build the existing wall. Leave a doorway and as many windows as you want. Now you have a staircase coming down into a 6' patio area and exterior access to your basement.


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## charlie828 (Feb 22, 2009)

Based on my experience around here, No vertical or horizontal reinforcement and voids were not poured. Brace with 2x6 from floor joists to plate on floor. Diagonal 2x4 braces to another plate on floor. Excavate outside of wall. Just maybe, block wall will straighten itself. If it doesn't, try driving wedges between 2x6 and wall to straighten. You may need to add small footers to tie wall to slab. Add vertical No.4 rebar @ 24 inches. Pour all cells. Waterproof wall and add French drain at bottom. Slope away from house.


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## Cmac9000 (Jan 7, 2014)

Sometimes when there is a deck it doesn't allow snow to accumulate on the ground. The snow would normally act as an insulator and the lack of snow allows the frost to drive deeper. Where we are located (in canada) we have to add extra frost protection at the footings for this reason, but it still doesn't help the walls from bowing if it's a hard frost....just a thought...


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

When block foundations crack.....http://www.jlconline.com/Images/Pra...n a Block Foundation Cracks_tcm96-1152846.pdf


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

So it mostly above grade and bowing. Maybe it was smacked with a backhoe and knocked out of plumb so bad that additional loads are pushing it. That would take alot though.


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## bob hutson (Mar 16, 2013)

check the gutters I don't do block but I was in the basement.I said I don't do block but the next project should be that wall. It was ready to cave. braced it up and had masons lay new wall with ties water can do crazy washouts. gutters were washing out the wall.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

onmywayup said:


> The wall is eight feet. I'd say all but a course or two are below grade. I haven't the slightest clue what's causing it. It's just as if the outside backfill is crushing in the house foundation. There's nothing outside except a ground level deck.
> 
> What could be causing this? Just a quality control issue with the masonry work?


Expansive clay soils. SE MI is famous for it.

You could build the walls out of reinforced & poured 6"slump, and they would still bow - IF you are in a bad spot and don't have wide enough drainage backfill.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

onmywayup said:


> The wall is eight feet. I'd say all but a course or two are below grade. I haven't the slightest clue what's causing it. It's just as if the outside backfill is crushing in the house foundation. There's nothing outside except a ground level deck.
> 
> What could be causing this? Just a quality control issue with the masonry work?




Real simple,unless the wall is wider than 8" block and heavily re-enforced and grouted,and back filled with marshmallows that is way,way to much of unbalanced fill on the exterior. Especially if it is clay as opposed to well drained back fill / sand or stone.

I have charts that show the allowable height of unbalanced fill for various wall materials,plain concrete,re-enforced along with all types of block sizes etc. I'M very sure the wall was not engineered properly.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

This paper will be of much help.


http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newjersey/NJ_Building/PDFs/NJ_Bldg_Chapter18.pdf


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

How much does the wall bowing out? If its out about 1" you can fill it with hydro cement and keep an eye on it. If it opens up again especially during seasonal changes, you will know there is movement and you can use carbon fiber straps to make the repairs. Find someone local who is a certified installer for them.

If its more then 1" and you have signs of deflection above, etc good idea to get an engineer to evaluate the issue.

Good luck


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## NJGC (Apr 5, 2014)

Carbon fiber straps will likely arrest all movement in the wall depending on how bad it's already deflected. It would be a permanent and economical solution if it's not to far gone. I've been installing them for years and warrant the work for life......never had any call backs.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

NJGC said:


> Carbon fiber straps will likely arrest all movement in the wall depending on how bad it's already deflected. It would be a permanent and economical solution if it's not to far gone. I've been installing them for years and warrant the work for life......never had any call backs.


Yes same here, I have been installing them also for the past few years, done about 8 jobs with carbon fiber straps and 3 jobs (one of it was a pool) using staples and injector ports... and with seasonal changes like we have here and the soil conditions in some areas, there was no calls back yet, so this is a very effective way to addressee this type of situations not to mention it is noninvasive and in most cases it can be done without the need to remove or re-route pipes, and other obstacles you usually find attached to foundation wall.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Youz guys got any picks of the carbon fiber straps being applied?


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Youz guys got any picks of the carbon fiber straps being applied?


Here you go, I hope it helps


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

I found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWzk9kSB4U0


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

SmallTownGuy said:


> I found this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWzk9kSB4U0





This one is better,for obvious reasons.:laughing:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RIZJyf7pqY


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