# How to cap stone veneer on the front of a porch with no ledge?



## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

I got a call the other day about putting a bluestone veneer on the front of a concrete porch and went to check it out.

The porch was formed and poured right into the foundation and then they put a concrete deck on it, but didn't overhang the concrete, they went flush with the wall.

I think originally they weren't planning on a veneer since there is no ledge either. Because it is only 20" though I have a friend at a welding that can make me up an iron ledge.

Anyway, I am looking for ideas on how finish the top of it off properly. I think without the concrete overhanging no matter what I do at the top is going to look incomplete.

I am also a little concerned about water at that joint between the stone and the concrete, even though there is a roof over the porch any water that gets on it is going to pitch right at the veneer and run down the face of it. 

I attached a high quality paint drawing of what I am trying to describe.

Any ideas?


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Either bluestone the whole top or cut a notch 2 1/2" for a tread to be inset into the concrete. Other then that I got nothing.


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

JBM said:


> Either bluestone the whole top or cut a notch 2 1/2" for a tread to be inset into the concrete. Other then that I got nothing.


The notch idea sound's promising, I will mention it when I meet with him again.

I wish they would have called a mason before going crazy with the porch deck, they could have figured out they needed a ledge with a glance at the plans.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I'm thinking the same as JBM. Best option is the cover the deck with stone, the notch is probably the realistic option, but there is still a possibility of water penetrating. I wouldn't set that stone in mortar, i would set it in PL and make a continuous line of it end to end to stop any water from getting to the wall stone


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

The stone is ordered and he liked the idea of the notch. Not sure if I should thank JBM or not though.

Now I have to cut the damn thing.

Should give it a nice finished look when it's done though.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

lol I know what you mean, but it will make for some good and after photos.


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

JBM said:


> lol I know what you mean, but it will make for some good and after photos.


I have to remember to take them, I suck so bad at after photos because usually the last day I am just anxious to tear down any staging, pack up the trailer and get the hell to the bank to deposit my check.

Then I get home and my wife says "How did it turn out?" and I say to myself. "Dammit, I forgot to take pictures again"


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I'm way worse with before pics. I'm so busy getting started and getting things worked out and to a place where I can start making money that I totally forget about pics. You can go back weeks later and get after pics


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

dom-mas said:


> I'm way worse with before pics. I'm so busy getting started and getting things worked out and to a place where I can start making money that I totally forget about pics. You can go back weeks later and get after pics


I have a thread on here from a few weeks ago about a chimney that I didn't even follow up on because the only picture I have is from way out by the road.

I put the final two courses on and bumped down 6 sets of roof jacks and 5 sections of scaffolding before I remembered I had to take an after picture.

I was kicking myself, and the roof was in such bad shape I couldn't get a ladder up there.

I have a whole folder full of before pictures like that on my computer and crappy far away after shots because I couldn't be back up to where I was.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Yeah I got a bunch of blurry from the road "after" pics


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

Well I finally got started and got the notches cut, hopefully I can get the steps and the caps put in tomorrow.

I need to pick your guys brains once more though about the veneer.

Originally it was going to be standard 4" veneer so my plan was to build it with a cavity behind and weeps at the bottom, they changed it for whatever reason to 2" though and I am not sure if I should still leave the cavity behind and the weeps or if I should grout in behind them as I go up. I am afraid I will have stability issues while stacking them since they are so thin.

Are aren't quite thin enough to be thinstone veneer though, so I really don't know which method would be best. It is only an 18" tall run thankfully, so I am not concerned about the additional weight on the ledge, just about the stacking and the normal water migration, it is over poured concrete walls too.

Once I get this project finished up I am going to keep pushing for patios and walkways, way easier on my brain.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

2 3/4" is the thinnest that you can consider as "normal" veneer. I would grout the back nad forget about weeps. Treat it as a hybrid. 

Personally I would also only do 1/2 at a time. 18" isn't much but at only 2" it could get pretty wobbly by the time you're up to height. Would suck to see a big bulge (commence jokes) in the wall the next day


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Ram set ties into it I would and grout it solid.


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

I like that plan too. I planned on going overboard with ties also. 

After I get the steps and caps on it's shelter time, I hate working in those things.

Stupid cold, it's going to take me twice as long to finish this project I bet.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

But...you're making money. More than if you were sitting in a tree stand with a crossbow


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

JBM said:


> Ram set ties into it I would and grout it solid.


Yep. I've personally managed to avoid cavity walls with stonework.


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