# Tub Flange address for waterproof board install



## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

Wondering if you tilers are still bringing the waterproof board to just off the tub sill over the flange or maybe you devised a better method to alleviate strapping walls to bypass it. I wish they just made a Wedi, Schlutter or Prova board etc. that was revealed on the back side to drop over the flange. Like a 1 inch high x 1/4 deep rabbit. Man that would make things easier.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

gowings said:


> Wondering if you tilers are still bringing the waterproof board to just off the tub sill over the flange or maybe you devised a better method to alleviate strapping walls to bypass it. I wish they just made a Wedi, Schlutter or Prova board etc. that was revealed on the back side to drop over the flange. Like a 1 inch high x 1/4 deep rabbit. Man that would make things easier.


I rabbit cut the Kerdi board. Drop it to 1/4" from the tub deck. Tape the tub, fill the gap with Kerdi fix. Same way I do over fiberglass shower stalls.

Tom


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## FloorsByAlex (Jun 21, 2017)

I suppose you could modify the bottom row of boards that slip over the flange. Kerdi and goboard are just foam with a skin, easy enough to mod with a utility knife. 

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

Sure hope I haven't been screwing this up for fifteen years..... But I always set the backer board right on top of the flange, building out the wall a tiny bit if needed to make sure that the front of the board sticks out past the flange a half inch or so, then we tile right down to the top of the tub itself. 

Then I usually caulk the tile-to-tub seam with color matched grout caulk.


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## Stunt Carpenter (Dec 31, 2011)

tjbnwi said:


> I rabbit cut the Kerdi board. Drop it to 1/4" from the tub deck. Tape the tub, fill the gap with Kerdi fix. Same way I do over fiberglass shower stalls.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




Same thing I do. Not much work to make the rabbit.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I shmoo the gap with kerdifix or sikaflex.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

onmywayup said:


> Sure hope I haven't been screwing this up for fifteen years..... But I always set the backer board right on top of the flange, building out the wall a tiny bit if needed to make sure that the front of the board sticks out past the flange a half inch or so, then we tile right down to the top of the tub itself.
> 
> Then I usually caulk the tile-to-tub seam with color matched grout caulk.


Do you waterproof?


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## gowings (Nov 10, 2013)

tjbnwi said:


> I rabbit cut the Kerdi board. Drop it to 1/4" from the tub deck. Tape the tub, fill the gap with Kerdi fix. Same way I do over fiberglass shower stalls.
> 
> Tom


Thank God
Someone does what I have a done few times. Its a little weak after the rabbit but I leave it a 1/4 off the bottom sill of the tub and fill that void in with waterproof caulk that I use for the joints. I just don't understand why the Kerdi fix is so much more expensive than the other competitors. That kerdi runs 25 bucks a tube at the wholesalers
With the newer style tubs these days the top sill of the tub is getting narrower so any depth I can save is a bonus for aesthetics.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

I staple kerdi band on the studs overlapping the tub lip and use kerdifix to adhere it to the tub lip then Durock ultralight board down to the lip. Very fast to install


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

Golden view said:


> Do you waterproof?


Yeah. We tape and skim coat all the backer board seams, then hit it all with Red Gard. Sometimes two coats.


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