# Repairing nail pops!



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

brhokel606 said:


> Would that help stop nail pops?


No, it will still pop off the paper.


----------



## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I had the fastest screwgun guy you ever heard in your life..............Problem was he was soooooooo fast he never really pushed the board tight to the studs. Thus creating thousands of srcrew pops by the time we figured it out. 

Durabond/quickset first coat is good, but does not stop nail/screw pops.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

1- hot mud has a poor bond to metal /plastic/Vinyl. And will swell after paint . When hot mud drys and gets wet again It swells again . 

2- http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/drywall_imperfections.htm


3- The less screws in the field the better the finish ,and the less problems you'll have down the road . Never! Ever !! Spot field screws with hot-Mud!!! Unless your an Idiot!! 

4- Propane heat is like soaking the board down with water . It's a no no!!!


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I'm an idiot then. First cost is always hot mud for me. Then a second coat with topping mud. Never had a single call back and I've been back to probably 50-60% of my jobs and have never seen a pop.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I'm an idiot then. First cost is always hot mud for me. Then a second coat with topping mud. Never had a single call back and I've been back to probably 50-60% of my jobs and have never seen a pop.


Your not looking close enough . Remember!! Just because they don't complain don't mean they're not complaining !


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

blacktop said:


> Your not looking close enough . Remember!! Just because they don't complain don't mean they're not complaining !


I hear what you are saying but I have a tight group of customers and most are repeat offenders. And you know I'm not a hack nor do I deliver a chit product. If I thought for a second my methods yielded bad results I would make adjustments.

Most of my business is referrals so I wouldn't last long if any of them were complaining.


----------



## Walraven (Jan 24, 2014)

This is why we only screw the perimeter of our sheets and glue the guts of it .
Ceilings get one row in the middle. Every screw is a chance of a pop


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I hear what you are saying but I have a tight group of customers and most are repeat offenders. And you know I'm not a hack nor do I deliver a chit product. If I thought for a second my methods yielded bad results I would make adjustments.
> 
> Most of my business is referrals so I wouldn't last long if any of them were complaining.


We are in two different fields . I hear ya!


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

blacktop said:


> We are in two different fields . I hear ya!


If I were a drywall guy like you I wouldn't use hot mud, ever.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Walraven said:


> .
> Ceilings get one row in the middle. Every screw is a chance of a pop


Because of moisture ? In the air ? In the board ? Lumber ? etc??


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> If I were a drywall guy like you I wouldn't use hot mud, ever.


I tape all my seams and butts year round with 90 min . It's a stronger bond . [imo] After the tape coat it's A/P all the way. 

I'm not sayin my way is the proper way.. But it's worked well for me. It seems to hold up ..


----------



## Walraven (Jan 24, 2014)

blacktop said:


> Because of moisture ? In the air ? In the board ? Lumber ? etc??


All of the above in my experiance not to mention its the board manufacturer's recommended method.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I'll spot screws all day with Durabond that has fortifier in it. It pretty much doesn't do anything - you can soak it before something shows. I know, I've had to redo a ceiling I'd done after a roof leak. That actually convinced me to Use Durabond with acrylic admix less frequently - it comes out really mean trying to saw it out for a clean cut..


----------



## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

hdavis said:


> I'll spot screws all day with Durabond that has fortifier in it. It pretty much doesn't do anything - you can soak it before something shows. I know, I've had to redo a ceiling I'd done after a roof leak. That actually convinced me to Use Durabond with acrylic admix less frequently - it comes out really mean trying to saw it out for a clean cut..


So you say the Durabond is not good for first coat? I always use it or 45 min setting for first coat, seems to shrink less but don't really do enough drywall and finishing to be an expert. I have had no call backs on my projects, yet, but always searching for the best way. I guess I assumed it was the best way because pre-mixed mud always shrinks and cracks. The setting compound is a bear to sand compared to pre-mixed though.

Maybe I should start a thread on finishing tips from first coat til the primer.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

brhokel606 said:


> So you say the Durabond is not good for first coat? I always use it or 45 min setting for first coat, seems to shrink less but don't really do enough drywall and finishing to be an expert. I have had no call backs on my projects, yet, but always searching for the best way. I guess I assumed it was the best way because pre-mixed mud always shrinks and cracks. The setting compound is a bear to sand compared to pre-mixed though.
> 
> Maybe I should start a thread on finishing tips from first coat til the primer.


If the tape cracks. That's a tape coat problem. There are many reasons for that .


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

brhokel606 said:


> So you say the Durabond is not good for first coat? I always use it or 45 min setting for first coat, seems to shrink less but don't really do enough drywall and finishing to be an expert. I have had no call backs on my projects, yet, but always searching for the best way. I guess I assumed it was the best way because pre-mixed mud always shrinks and cracks. The setting compound is a bear to sand compared to pre-mixed though.
> 
> Maybe I should start a thread on finishing tips from first coat til the primer.


Durabond is fine for first coat. You CAN use it for all coats, but here you get into a lot of differences in the way people do things - I think someone said there are a lot of ways to do something right, and it applies here. There are also a lot of ways to do it not-so-right.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

brhokel606 said:


> Maybe I should start a thread on finishing tips from first coat til the primer.


That would be a huge thread.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

blacktop said:


> I tape all my seams and butts year round with 90 min . It's a stronger bond . [imo] After the tape coat it's A/P all the way.
> 
> I'm not sayin my way is the proper way.. But it's worked well for me. It seems to hold up ..


I guess if I was in production work as a drywaller I would have a much different perspective, but from where I stand I would hate having to mix so much 90 minute. I would rather add a bit of water to premix and go. But I concede to the guy who does it for a living and assume that I would eventually come to that same conclusion and use a similar method.


----------



## endo_alley (Apr 9, 2013)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I'm an idiot then. First cost is always hot mud for me. Then a second coat with topping mud. Never had a single call back and I've been back to probably 50-60% of my jobs and have never seen a pop.


We always use taping mud straight out of the box or the first coat of screws. It shrinks badly, but sticks like nobody's business. Then Smoothset for the second coat. It shrinks very little. The light weight setting muds don't have as much adhesive as taping mud for the first coat. And of course you should never leave any build up of mud over the screws. Just fill the dimple, no more.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> We always use taping mud straight out of the box or the first coat of screws. It shrinks badly, but sticks like nobody's business. Then Smoothset for the second coat. It shrinks very little. The light weight setting muds don't have as much adhesive as taping mud for the first coat. And of course you should never leave any build up of mud over the screws. Just fill the dimple, no more.


I wish I could get the guys I train to scrape the heads. No matter how much I show them they always feel the need to leave a small mound. If you pull tight on both passes you can sand it with a sheet of paper.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

I create a lot of nail pops when there is a void behind the drywall and I screw in a TV bracket pulling the drywall tight to the stud, heck I've had a few that came out 3/16".


----------



## mnld (Jun 4, 2013)

I've tried every combination known on screws and always come back to first coat USG green and two coats blue over that. First coat must be bone dry before recoating. 
Small jobs I will use setting mud, but only with extra glue added. They still swell out though, which is a pain.


----------



## antonioooooooo (Mar 8, 2010)

Taper has been asking me to glue middle studs (with globs) on stand ups. Starting to think it's better.. No pops and less spotting screws. Hate in the finishing stage when you anchor something and POP.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

antonioooooooo said:


> Taper has been asking me to glue middle studs (with globs) on stand ups. Starting to think it's better.. No pops and less spotting screws. Hate in the finishing stage when you anchor something and POP.


The glue shrinks. Use just enough for the board to stick. Too much glue under the screw will draw up and cause the screw to pop.


----------



## Walraven (Jan 24, 2014)

blacktop said:


> The glue shrinks. Use just enough for the board to stick. Too much glue under the screw will draw up and cause the screw to pop.


WE use glue in blobs NEVER screw through a glue blob, or within 6 inches of one for that matter.


----------



## META (Apr 9, 2015)

Big Shoe said:


> I had the fastest screwgun guy you ever heard in your life..............Problem was he was soooooooo fast he never really pushed the board tight to the studs. Thus creating thousands of srcrew pops by the time we figured it out.
> 
> Durabond/quickset first coat is good, but does not stop nail/screw pops.


I've watched fast crews too, and they complained about homes these days having pops. It was a no brainer after watching their install practice, so fast the gun would bottom itself out before the board ever got tight to stud...


----------



## antonioooooooo (Mar 8, 2010)

Yup gotta puke that board up as quick as possible to stay out of poverty.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

META said:


> I've watched fast crews too, and they complained about homes these days having pops. It was a no brainer after watching their install practice, so fast the gun would bottom itself out before the board ever got tight to stud...


If you pay a hanging crew good money they will take the time to put out good work.

If a D/C Pays his hangers chit! That's what he gets!


----------



## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

blacktop said:


> If you pay a hanging crew good money they will take the time to put out good work.
> 
> If a D/C Pays his hangers chit! That's what he gets!


Yeah, my problem is taking on a nightmare were apparently the GC paid everyone chit and no one had any idea how to do a competent job.


----------



## asurfgod (Feb 1, 2016)

I'd do same thing. Either drive nail/screw in to recess it and then add another screw on either or both sides of original nail/screws. That should do it. Well mud, sand and texture if necessary.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

Hey, have a look how I fix large drywall repairs.






Btw, Do you guys know if its necessary to use drywall tape?
For this video I didn't use any, but other videos I watched they used that drywall mesh tape that looks like chicken wire. (Total noob question.)


----------



## mnld (Jun 4, 2013)

"Hey, have a look how I fix large drywall repairs.






Btw, Do you guys know if its necessary to use drywall tape?
For this video I didn't use any, but other videos I watched they used that drywall mesh tape that looks like chicken wire. (Total noob question.)"


Is this for real? Not trying to be sarcastic or anything but this had to be a joke, right?


----------



## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

mnld said:


> Is this for real? Not trying to be sarcastic or anything but this had to be a joke, right?


:help: 

:whistling I hope so


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

He's from Vancouver. No telling about his sense of humour.


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

TylerThePainter said:


> Hey, have a look how I fix large drywall repairs.
> 
> Btw, Do you guys know if its necessary to use drywall tape?
> For this video I didn't use any, but other videos I watched they used that drywall mesh tape that looks like chicken wire. (Total noob question.)


!!!:no::no::no::no:!!!

Look up "blowout patch". Don't need no backer, no screwgun, no tape. If you done it a few times, you only need a utility knife, a 6" drywall blade and some mud. 

No tape measure, no pencil, no straight edge. Just a good eye and a steady hand.

I'm an old man. In the time it took you to measure & install that backer, a blowout patch would already be on the wall with 5 minute mud, waiting for a second coat.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

mnld said:


> "Hey, have a look how I fix large drywall repairs.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_C630EUAOs
> 
> ...


All he needs now Is a drywall spoon and he's set! :laughing:


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

I have done those "blow out patches" in the past, but still used backing behind the patch in case the teenagers body slam one another into the wall.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jlhaslip said:


> I have done those "blow out patches" in the past, but still used backing behind the patch in case the teenagers body slam one another into the wall.


If someone body slams into a wall, backer is the least of your worries.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

SmallTownGuy said:


> !!!:no::no::no::no:!!!
> 
> Look up "blowout patch". Don't need no backer, no screwgun, no tape. If you done it a few times, you only need a utility knife, a 6" drywall blade and some mud.
> 
> ...


We call them a California or "Cali" patch here.


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> We call them a California or "Cali" patch here.


:thumbsup: Yup, I was gonna throw that in, but forgot.

Anyway, first time I saw a real mud man do one was the last time I went through all that falderal with backers and screws and tape and...

I think my exact words were "oh hell yes!"


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> We call them a California or "Cali" patch here.


I've heard them called buffalo patches too. Why Buffalo ? IDK !!


I guess It's a west coast East coast thing!


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> :thumbsup: Yup, I was gonna throw that in, but forgot.
> 
> Anyway, first time I saw a real mud man do one was the last time I went through all that falderal with backers and screws and tape and...
> 
> I think my exact words were "oh hell yes!"


No tape?

Your talking about the patch where the hole is beveled ..Then the piece is beveled to fit?


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

blacktop said:


> No tape?
> 
> Your talking about the patch where the hole is beveled ..Then the piece is beveled to fit?


Where the patch is about 1" larger than the hole on each side, then backside is scored, that 1" strip snapped off leaving the face paper and - wha-lah - instant flanged patch.

I went looking for a yootoob of that method, but the only guy I found doing that was so slow I wanted to cuff him.

Seriously, he doesn't deserve his video being posted.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

Texas Wax said:


> :help:
> 
> :whistling I hope so


No joke, Im a painter, not a drywaller.
My video is how I was taught.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Where the patch is about 1" larger than the hole on each side, then backside is scored, that 1" strip snapped off leaving the face paper and - wha-lah - instant flanged patch.
> 
> I went looking for a yootoob of that method, but the only guy I found doing that was so slow I wanted to cuff him.
> 
> Seriously, he doesn't deserve his video being posted.


Yeah ..that's how I do em.. I've heard about the beveled patches with no tape ..But never tried it.


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

blacktop said:


> Yeah ..that's how I do em.. I've heard about the beveled patches with no tape ..But never tried it.


Yup, your way is EXACTLY how I mean.:thumbup:


----------



## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Yup, your way is EXACTLY how I mean.:thumbup:



That's how I do it too. I don't use tape on those. I figure the extra paper is same as tape. You guys using tape?

To the OP, that patching method needs some improvement. Get some tape, a larger knife, and get rid of that damn pink spackle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

TylerThePainter said:


> No joke, Im a painter, not a drywaller.
> My video is how I was taught.


Hey Tyler,

What you videoed is just as I first did it (but with tape) - but never again.

Maybe Moore already has a video of doing a blowout/cali/buffalo - it's the only way to go.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

gbruzze1 said:


> That's how I do it too. I don't use tape on those. I figure the extra paper is same as tape. You guys using tape?
> 
> To the OP, that patching method needs some improvement. Get some tape, a larger knife, and get rid of that damn pink spackle
> 
> ...


So you don't use tape on patch jobs like my video?

I used the Spackle because it drys in an hour. Just to fill only a little bit of surface area.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Hey Tyler,
> 
> What you videoed is just as I first did it (but with tape) - but never again.
> 
> Maybe Moore already has a video of doing a blowout/cali/buffalo - it's the only way to go.


what is the tape for? I find when I use tape, The tape is transparent and leaves a bump.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

TylerThePainter said:


> So you don't use tape on patch jobs like my video?
> 
> I used the Spackle because it drys in an hour. Just to fill only a little bit of surface area.


Use hot mud. It'll dry in 5, 20, 45 or 90 minutes.


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

gbruzze1 said:


> That's how I do it too. I don't use tape on those. I figure the extra paper is same as tape.
> 
> *YUP*
> 
> ...


...


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Where the patch is about 1" larger than the hole on each side, then backside is scored, that 1" strip snapped off leaving the face paper and - wha-lah - instant flanged patch.
> 
> I went looking for a youtube of that method, but the only guy I found doing that was so slow I wanted to cuff him.
> 
> Seriously, he doesn't deserve his video being posted.


OK, I watched that exact video you posted, of a "Blow Out" patch job.
Their is no back support, so could easily be blown out again?
Second, wouldn't that patch be transparent through the mud? Since its a layer over the original drywall?

Im asking genuine questions here. Im honestly trying to improve my method for my next contracts where I require patching.

Btw, My video was intended for DIY not Professionals.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Use hot mud. It'll dry in 5, 20, 45 or 90 minutes.


Thanks TNT!
Is tape a requirement for a patch job like the example in my video?

What is the purpose of useing tape?


Total drywall noob.


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

TylerThePainter said:


> what is the tape for? I find when I use tape, The tape is transparent and leaves a bump.


Ahhh.....


You are thinking like a painter - Dead flat is where its at - but you have to shift gears. The trick is not to get a dead flat wall - the trick is to make a wall look dead flat.

This is one skill that you have to see in action to appreciate.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Ahhh.....
> 
> 
> You are thinking like a painter - Dead flat is where its at - but you have to shift gears. The trick is not to get a dead flat wall - the trick is to make a wall look dead flat.
> ...


Yes, I haven't had the opportunity yet to see a drywaller in action.

I am confused on how how a drywall get a wall to look "flat" after hanging up the sheets.

Anyways, I'll have to figure in person.


Also, don't "blow out patches" have zero support. How durable are they?..


----------



## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

TylerThePainter said:


> OK, I watched that exact video you posted, of a "Blow Out" patch job.


Yeah, the basics are there, but the guy is like molasses in January, and he's using a toy knife.



> Their is no back support, so could easily be blown out again?


No. It's the same method and strength where all those taped joints are from when the house was originally drywalled.



> Second, wouldn't that patch be transparent through the mud? Since its a layer over the original drywall?


If you are going to patch holes - then that patch has to be feathered into the wall plane.

Your way - I guarantee you I can come back after a couple of weeks, shine the "truth light" and see those sharp lines.



> Im asking genuine questions here. Im honestly trying to improve my method for my next contracts where I require patching.
> 
> Btw, My video was intended for DIY not Professionals.


Yup. Doesn't matter who its for. I couldn't let you do work like you videoed on one of my jobs.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

TylerThePainter said:


> what is the tape for? I find when I use tape, The tape is transparent and leaves a bump.


The tape bridges the gap and ties the drywall patch to the drywall on the wall. Without it, when the wall moves the patch will crack at the seams.

In order to reduce the "hump" look you need to make tight pulls. I do at least three pulls. One to fill the seam and bed the mesh tape. A second to feather the patch and a third to feather it out further. Prime and then hit an areas I see and paint. I address any flaws I find after each coat of paint.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> The tape bridges the gap and ties the drywall patch to the drywall on the wall. Without it, when the wall moves the patch will crack at the seams.
> 
> In order to reduce the "hump" look you need to make tight pulls. I do at least three pulls. One to fill the seam and bed the mesh tape. A second to feather the patch and a third to feather it out further. Prime and then hit an areas I see and paint. I address any flaws I find after each coat of paint.


You said mesh!! :laughing:


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TylerThePainter said:


> What is the purpose of useing tape?
> 
> 
> .


You are killing me Bro!!!


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

blacktop said:


> You said mesh!! :laughing:


On a repair...simmer down now.


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

blacktop said:


> You are killing me Bro!!!



:laughing:


Like I said, Im a noob.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Use hot mud. It'll dry in 5, 20, 45 or 90 minutes.


Um, no. It'll set in those times, but can take way longer to dry.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tinstaafl said:


> Um, no. It'll set in those times, but can take way longer to dry.


If it's not ready, take a heat gun to it. I just used 20 all day today. Three coats on patch work, primed and painted. Most patches were set and dry in their specified time.

With anything, environmental conditions may effect set and dry times. How loose you mix will also extend dry times as well as what you are going over. If it's not a porous surface it will definitely take forever to dry. Again, a few seconds with a blow dryer or heat gun and you are in business.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> Um, no. It'll set in those times, but can take way longer to dry.


I've seen 20 min take days to cure over new board ...With heat!


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

blacktop said:


> I've seen 20 min take days to cure over new board ...With heat!


Bad batch or the components settled in the bag. I've seen it happen. It's rare and the exception, certainly not the rule.

If a heat gun was taken to it, it would dry. I've not ever had it not dry with a heat gun.


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Bad batch or the components settled in the bag. I've seen it happen. It's rare and the exception, certainly not the rule.
> 
> If a heat gun was taken to it, it would dry. I've not ever had it not dry with a heat gun.


Would it make good sense to try and dry out 800 ft of corner bead with a blow dryer ? When a 170 btu blower wouldn't do the job?:laughing:


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

blacktop said:


> Would it make good sense to try and dry out 800 ft of corner bead with a blow dryer ? When a 170 btu blower wouldn't do the job?:laughing:


If the job is hourly yeah.


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

blacktop said:


> Would it make good sense to try and dry out 800 ft of corner bead with a blow dryer ?


What, you don't have an extension cord?


----------



## blacktop (Oct 28, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> What, you don't have an extension cord?


Yes I do...I also have some Finesse self adjusting extra hold hair spray!:laughing: But that's not gonna help with the cure time on any hot mud.


----------



## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

blacktop said:


> Would it make good sense to try and dry out 800 ft of corner bead with a blow dryer ? When a 170 btu blower wouldn't do the job?:laughing:


You didn't say anything about making since. You had a problem and I presented a solution. That's what good contractors do. Problem solvers! :thumbsup:

And if I needed it dry, that's exactly what I would do, heat gun and an extension cord. I don't have enough hair to own a blow dryer. :laughing:


----------



## RangoWA (Jun 25, 2014)

TylerThePainter said:


> Hey, have a look how I fix large drywall repairs.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_C630EUAOs
> 
> ...


That's a technique I came up with too. Makes for a very strong patch, I do it on floors too. I always use paper tape.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

TylerThePainter said:


> Hey, have a look how I fix large drywall repairs.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_C630EUAOs
> 
> ...


That's gotta be one of the worst videos on drywall patching I've ever seen in my life.


----------



## brhokel606 (Mar 7, 2014)

That video is pretty horrible, thats alot of mud on the wall to start with. What is going to keep joint from cracking? 

California patch is my go too. Do you guys use spray 3m glue on the patch? That is how I do it but also heard some guys just use mud under the patch edges.


----------



## dsconstructs (Jul 20, 2010)

I don't do California patches often, but when I do I use mud. That way I get some mud packed in between the patch and existing wall.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

brhokel606 said:


> That video is pretty horrible, thats alot of mud on the wall to start with. What is going to keep joint from cracking?
> 
> California patch is my go too. Do you guys use spray 3m glue on the patch? That is how I do it but also heard some guys just use mud under the patch edges.


Mostly mud, but you can get wrinkles in the paper that way - can't over work it...


----------



## TylerThePainter (Mar 26, 2015)

brhokel606 said:


> That video is pretty horrible, thats alot of mud on the wall to start with. What is going to keep joint from cracking?
> 
> California patch is my go too. Do you guys use spray 3m glue on the patch? That is how I do it but also heard some guys just use mud under the patch edges.


At-least I learned something.


----------



## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

brhokel606 said:


> That video is pretty horrible, thats alot of mud on the wall to start with. What is going to keep joint from cracking?
> 
> California patch is my go too. Do you guys use spray 3m glue on the patch? That is how I do it but also heard some guys just use mud under the patch edges.


I prefer mud under the patches. I figure it'll squeeze in between the patch and the original board and make the patch stronger.


----------



## madmax718 (Dec 7, 2012)

I forgot all about the debate of mesh vs paper debate.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

I prefer fibafuse tape.


----------

