# Looking for suggestions on a short retaining wall.



## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

I have a short (10"-16" above grade) retaining wall to build alongside my driveway and garage. Overall length will be roughly 80 feet.

My plan is to do a conventional cinder block wall on a footing. Then, I would like to cover the block with the same veneer stone as used on my house. I would also add a capstone to finish it off. What I am looking for are suggestions on the wall layout. Should I make it arrow straight, or would it be more appealing to give it a little swagger. I have some decent size rocks I can integrate into the wall possibly as well. Also, is drainage something I should be real concerned about considering the small amount of soil that it will be retaining, and the fact that below the thin layer of topsoil it is pure sand? It perks like nobodies business. I would also like any suggestions on cutting costs. I know I have the ability to completely over engineer this from simple fear of not knowing...haha


I know this question is really vague and pretty basic, but I appreciate any input you can offer

Thanks in advance,

SHMO


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

Here are a couple pics. Where the 2x6 is laying will be the approximate wall location.


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

Here is a shot of the veneer I will be using.












I have a handful of rocks about this size and species left over from some landscaping projects. I thought I might be able to incorporate them somehow into the wall.


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

Well for one I would not call it retaining wall because its not retaining anything considering 2x6 is laying on pretty much flat ground.

For two how much experience you have with CMUs? if none or little just do it straight,if decent then do any shape you want.

Also dont forget to drill some dowels and insert rebar ever 3 blocks. Make sure that those particular cores are grouted.To the top.

I am assuming you dont want anyone to tip it over.

Another thing...if you are laying 4" block(for example),make sure you got 16" footing.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

Looks like a retaining wall to me. I'm assuming he will grade the high side away from his house to make use of the retaining wall.

The house looks very nice. I like the natural wood trim and doors.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Yes his house is "pimp", there was some photos a few months ago.

Seem like a lot of work digging a footing for that wall when there are other retaining wall options, but I would put some crush stone behind it, nothing major though. For curves it would be fairly simple to do with 1/2 block. If it were my house I would build it with a vertical pour on the end, one in the middle somewhere and one on the other end, and do a bond beam on the whole top with #5 steel.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I've got very little to add except, how about a wine bottle shape for the drive


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

I think the photo is a little deceiving. There is roughly 12-13" of rise from the driveway to that 2x6 board. I will need to do some excavating.

In regards to CMU's, I think I helped my dad stack some in the back of his truck as a kid...haha. However, I have a fairly decent understanding of concrete work. I have also done a couple manufactured stone projects. I know I know, not even remotely the same as CMU's, but I do feel confident (perhaps with help from you guys) that I can accomplish the project accordingly. This is happening on my own house, so banging it out quickly and efficiently is not a huge concern.

I had planned on a 16" footing with rebar to tie it together and uprights for the CMU's. However, I was thinking of using 8x8x16's. Should I consider a different block? 

I am guessing it would be easier to run a straight wall, but without the question of difficulty, I am curious if you guys think it would "LOOK" better with some S-curve in it?

Thanks for the input. 

SHMO


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

dom-mas said:


> I've got very little to add except, how about a wine bottle shape for the drive


There won't be any additional driveway space. I plan on filling the area between the existing driveway and retaining wall with grass. 

SHMO


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

JBM said:


> Yes his house is "pimp", there was some photos a few months ago.
> 
> Seem like a lot of work digging a footing for that wall when there are other retaining wall options, but I would put some crush stone behind it, nothing major though. For curves it would be fairly simple to do with 1/2 block. If it were my house I would build it with a vertical pour on the end, one in the middle somewhere and one on the other end, and do a bond beam on the whole top with #5 steel.


I agree that adding a footing, CMU wall and dressing with veneer is not exactly the easiest approach. However, I want something that will be aesthetically pleasing. I am still in the planning stages and I am open to all suggestions. Do you think there might be a simpler, but still attractive, consideration for this location?

SHMO


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

shmo said:


> I agree that adding a footing, CMU wall and dressing with veneer is not exactly the easiest approach. However, I want something that will be aesthetically pleasing. I am still in the planning stages and I am open to all suggestions. Do you think there might be a simpler, but still attractive, consideration for this location?
> 
> SHMO


Oh ya, landscaping blocks or just dry stack rocks. I wouldnt put something as permanent as a footing a poured block right there if it were me.


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

I considered landscape blocks, but I struggled to find a block that would blend well with the existing stone veneer and stamped concrete. The closest I could find at my local yard was Roman stone by Calstone. http://www.calstone.com/product_color.php?site=2&cid=4&product_id=58 While that might work and look good, I simply was not sure enough to commit. Not being from a masonry background, I don't know exactly what other blocks might be worth considering. To be honest, my local yard didn't seem to stock a lot of options for smaller scale block.

Dry stack was another option that I considered. However, being that I have never attempted it, I thought it may have been a little out of my scope for such a long run. 

I would be interested to know why you wouldn't want something permanent in that location? Maybe I am overlooking something.

SHMO


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

I would also do something with segmented block. Allen Block and Keystone are two big names in my area, but I'm sure there are more. I the wall you're describing would look weird in that spot.


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

8" is perfect for that type of work...but now I suggest 24" footing


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

shmo said:


> There won't be any additional driveway space. I plan on filling the area between the existing driveway and retaining wall with grass.
> 
> SHMO


I didn't understand the original question i thought the wall was the edge of the driveway. What I've found is that if you do a wavy wall and it has no reason to be wavy it looks odd. especially if there isn't enough wave, then it looks like someone tried to do a straight wall and failed.

The other thing to is the whole of the house. Lots of straight lines? any other walls with curves? 

I agree with JBM. A drylaid wall would be more appropriate and would be easier to incorporate the boulders into it.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

TheItalian204 said:


> 8" is perfect for that type of work...but now I suggest 24" footing


I'm pretty sure when the guy says veneer that he means thin/adheered veneer. No need for a wider footing.


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

dom-mas said:


> I'm pretty sure when the guy says veneer that he means thin/adheered veneer. No need for a wider footing.


I like me block centered with proportional area on both sides...just in case...:thumbsup:...


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

TheItalian204 said:


> I like me block centered with proportional area on both sides...just in case...:thumbsup:...



Ok. The wall will be 16" high max. even with a natural stone cap the weight will be less than a couple hundred pounds per linear foot.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Those pics don't show nearly enough of the layout to say if a "wavy" wall would be better than straight. More pics along with a lot drawing would help.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

dom-mas said:


> Ok. The wall will be 16" high max. even with a natural stone cap the weight will be less than a couple hundred pounds per linear foot.


Agreed. We pour footings for buildings that are only 14" wide.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

well footings are supposed to be 2x the width of the wall they're supporting and at least as thick as the width of the wall (not exactly right but I'd have to look at the code again) If you were using a 6" block the 14" footing would be more than adequate.


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

I really appreciate all the input.

With that said, I am wondering if most of you think I am headed down the wrong road. Slowsol mentioned that a wall like I was intending to build would look weird in that location. JBM also mentioned that he would personally not put something so permanent in that location.

I'll be honest, the main reason I considered this type of build was the fact that I wanted the wall to look somewhat cohesive with the rest of the house. How better than to use the exact same stone veneer that's used on the house itself, I thought. I also want something that looks a little higher end than a cheap stack block. perhaps a tumbled look would work for me, or maybe something else. I am just not sure. Another thing I do not want to end up with is a hodge podge of different masonry. I already have the stone veneer on the house, as well as a stamped and colored concrete on the drive and walk. I don't want my house to end up being the equivalent of wearing plaid pants with my Hawaiian shirt. Apparently my wife says I shouldn't do that anymore.:whistling

I have looked online at Allen block and some other block, but at my local yard there isn't all that much to choose from.I do have a Lowes and a **** Depot nearby, but I have not looked into which brands they carry. If anyone has a suggestion of something that will fit into my criteria, I would be all ears.

I'll take some better pics of the location and post them ASAP

Thanks again,

SHMO


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## shmo (Jun 11, 2011)

Well, "ASAP" turned into a few days. 

Anyway, here are a couple pics that show the entire area a little better.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm no designer, but from those pics I'd go with a straight wall, with no lumpy bits.


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