# The hundred billion taping knives



## finakat (Jun 7, 2011)

Okay, stupid dumb retarded question but its going to keep me up eating away at me all night

What are all the different kinds of taping knives for? Obviously I know what the different lengths are for but what's the purpose of the heavy wooden handle ones with the double plate metal on them? Howcome its seemingly impossible to find a six inch stainless knife? 

What is the purpose of all these carbon and blue steel blades? If they rust immediately what's the point of even making them to sell for one or two dollars cheaper? I use wallboard all stainless steel knives with the hard rubber grip handle

What's the deal with the knives that have the wooden ledge on the bottom where it meets the handle?? Okay okay I think I've had too many accelerants today but still lol..

Once again I know what the difference in the width is for im not a homeowner...hopefully some crazy oldschool taper who collects knives for fun will write a good response to this


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Blue steel is all I use. They flex better for feathering than the stainless steel. After I am done with them for the day I spray a little WD-40 on them so they won't rust.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

I have never noticed a difference in the quality of finish a blue steel blade gives over a stainless as I'm no pro drywaller but I do know Marshall town make a 6" stainless in their premier line.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I prefer the wallboard blue steel yellow handle for 8,10,and 12 inch. For 6 inch I'm addicted to Purdy. Never got the hang of stainless. Didn't like the ''feel''.

It's pretty much a learning curve on what you end up using. Like the Ford,Chevy or Dodge thing.

As far as rust goes, wipe off water(pantleg)and let them dry before you put them away. Every so often they rust, no big deal. Just sand them and rinse and away you go.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I like to leave my new ones outside for a couple weeks. They get nice and rusty. Then I palm sand them smooth. It seems to thin them just right. Works for me.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Well let's see I have blue steel with wood handles and plastic handles, I like Hyde 6" stainless for tapeing I use 2", 4", 5", hyde kniefs for shaving down walls and ceilings, they are also used for spackle. I use 10", 14" for my second coat and skim coating, If I have a ceiling to float out I will use my 24" and it has a 18" wood handle, Then I have my trowels I use for plastering:laughing:
and they are blue steel, stainless and wood:thumbup:


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Glad you posted the question.

Im a general remodeller kind of guy and often find myself doing small drywall jobs that are a part of the bigger job.

I have been accumulating mostly marshalltown durasoft stainless knives/trowels and was thinking of ordering a couple more, just to have a complete collection. 

Is blue steel worth it? I have a few off brand knives but always hated pulling them out and having them be super rusty, especially since I dont use them often.


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## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

Good post, always like to see what everyone's using. 

Just thought I'd chime in on the stainless steel knives..sheetrock makes them...yeah, like the brand..

http://www.sheetrocktools.com/products/?prod=1


I picked up the 6" from my local Kamco, I love it so far, and no rust or WD 40 or anything to worry about:thumbsup: It's just getting broken in though, it doesn't come out too often


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## FRAME2FINISH (Aug 31, 2010)

i use both, sand them clean and commence the muddin


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## KLLR2x4 (Nov 18, 2011)

I like to use stainless for Plus 3 applications. I use blue steel when working with durabond. For some reason it feels right that way. When I clean my mud tools I use a scotchbrite green scrubby. I've seen guys use brushes to clean but always looked inefficient. The green scrubby enables you to not have to sand the blue steel when you use it next. Keeping them dry after cleaning is a biggy.


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