# Wall Framing



## erikm (Jun 12, 2010)

Cache said:


> It seems that some of the posts are missing my point and intent in going with 24" spacing. It has nothing to do with being "green". The intent is to build a MORE solid structure without incurring too much extra cost and also taking into account the local insulation reqs.
> 
> The intent is to get the floor joists, wall studs, and trusses to line up. IOW, all roof and floor loads have a direct path through studs to the foundation. No trusses landing between studs on a top plate. No studs landing between floor joists. The problem with this is that joists are usually set at 16" or 19.2", while the walls are 16", and the trusses are always 24". Something has to change there. I did the calculations on many of the trusses I've been setting. Some of them are resulting in 4000lbs total loads along the length of the truss. NO intermediate bearing. So each end constitutes a point load of up to 2,000lbs without any wind load. I'd feel more comfortable about drywall not cracking out if trusses weren't landing midspan between studs.
> 
> ...


 
I assume we are talking about 2x6 exterior walls?
with osb applied to the exterior/nailed into the double top plate.
so no truss deflection on a double 2x6 tp/no need to stack stud to truss.
I always prefer r19 over r13
the rest of the loads are traansfered to a rim joist/no span there
if 24 oc/always 5/8 drywall
24 oc floor joist/3/4 t&g/with a 1/2" underlayment works for me:notworthy


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

Forget the cost savings and the "green" factor. It boils down to the difference between a well built structure, and one that will need repairs sooner or later. I've seen tract homes that used 3/8 over 24 centers no clips then no tar paper and 3 in 1's nailed over. How long do you think a roof like that will last?


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

I also agree that it is better when the point load is cont. to the foundation Joist, stud, and Rafter all lining up. Just better. Trusses on 16 just don't make any sense, never seen it, but that doesn't mean nobody does it


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## erikm (Jun 12, 2010)

Irishslave said:


> Forget the cost savings and the "green" factor. It boils down to the difference between a well built structure, and one that will need repairs sooner or later. I've seen tract homes that used 3/8 over 24 centers no clips then no tar paper and 3 in 1's nailed over. How long do you think a roof like that will last?


 

We always sheath with 5/8 ply or osb on 24" centers/with an 1/8" gap between abuttments/expanstion!:no:


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

Yes sir 5/8 is the ticket, It holds a roofing nail much better too I think, I realize your thread started out talking about 24's and wall framing and I just think that the cost savings is negligable, especially on 2x4, even 2x6. I'm not a big fan of manufactured trusses even with the benefit of span you get with them


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## erikm (Jun 12, 2010)

Irishslave said:


> Yes sir 5/8 is the ticket, It holds a roofing nail much better too I think, I realize your thread started out talking about 24's and wall framing and I just think that the cost savings is negligable, especially on 2x4, even 2x6. I'm not a big fan of manufactured trusses even with the benefit of span you get with them


 
The reason alot of builders use the truss system is because of 2 things.
1. savings in foundation labor and material
2. savings in erection time:shifty:


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## Joe Carola (Jun 15, 2004)

erikm said:


> The reason alot of builders use the truss system is because of 2 things.
> 1. savings in foundation labor and material
> :shifty:


What does the foundation have to do with trusses compared to stick framing a roof?


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## erikm (Jun 12, 2010)

Joe Carola said:


> What does the foundation have to do with trusses compared to stick framing a roof?


 
Theres a good deal of difference Joe.

A stick built roof needs interior footings/opps I am talking about a slab.

Forgot you guys use basements...but even so,especially on a single story if you use trusses you will save money.

On a 2 story you only need post pads for beam supports what hold up the joists.


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