# Furring Strips



## B.Scott

Appearently inner and myself are the only ones around here used to strapping

Strapping is what we call it. It's 1 by 3 not 5/4!

Sold in bundles of ten at the lumber yard. Even foot lengths. 

I've never seen it installed with screws or staples for that matter. 
6d ring from the gun. Minimal splitting (set your depth)

Doesn't take much time or effort and offers at least two advantages:

1 Helps level out (flatten) the ceiling from the crowned joists.
2 Gives a way for the electrician to run wires across joists without drilling every joist. 

Every house I've ever worked in or built has strapped ceilings. Doesn't matter the age. It's a Boston thing. 

Peace,
Bob


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## Rich D.

Inner10 said:


> I live knee deep in strapping country. Everything here is strapped.
> 
> Rich, drywall screws are 1-1/4...sheetrock is 1/2 and strapping is 3/4....not much is going to be biting into your framing unless you go with 2" screws.
> 
> If anyone has ever seen a strapped ceiling collapse because the staples pulled out please post a picture.



Come on.. not all drywall screws are 1-1/4... 

Well I'm pretty sure it's obvious you use longer screws to get into framing.. :laughing:


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## Rich D.

B.Scott said:


> Appearently inner and myself are the only ones around here used to strapping
> 
> Strapping is what we call it. It's 1 by 3 not 5/4!
> 
> Sold in bundles of ten at the lumber yard. Even foot lengths.
> 
> I've never seen it installed with screws or staples for that matter.
> 6d ring from the gun. Minimal splitting (set your depth)
> 
> Doesn't take much time or effort and offers at least two advantages:
> 
> 1 Helps level out (flatten) the ceiling from the crowned joists.
> 2 Gives a way for the electrician to run wires across joists without drilling every joist.
> 
> Every house I've ever worked in or built has strapped ceilings. Doesn't matter the age. It's a Boston thing.
> 
> Peace,
> Bob


That's crazy how different areas differ In methods so much..

Around here strapping instant common and my yard doesn't stock to much of it, same as Home Depot or lowes.. 

I wonder if running wires between strapping and joists is code approved.


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## Tom M

Strapping is better construction. It jumps uneven ceiling & hardware, it more importantly helps avoid cracks from shrinkage. Specially on sloped areas that deflect under snow load.


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## Tom M

Rich D. said:


> Im a nj guy and ceiling board is sold at my yard...


Rich other than the name I still dont know what material its made of or what size it is. Can you tell us?


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## mbryan

Inner10 said:


> Stop trying to fasten it to the joists with drywall screws. Use staples or wood screws and it doesn't split.


Pre-drill!:clap:

Never mind, thought he was talking about splitting when screwing the drywall up..


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## hdavis

B.Scott said:


> Appearently inner and myself are the only ones around here used to strapping
> 
> Strapping is what we call it. It's 1 by 3 not 5/4!
> 
> Sold in bundles of ten at the lumber yard. Even foot lengths.
> 
> I've never seen it installed with screws or staples for that matter.
> 6d ring from the gun. Minimal splitting (set your depth)
> 
> Doesn't take much time or effort and offers at least two advantages:
> 
> 1 Helps level out (flatten) the ceiling from the crowned joists.
> 2 Gives a way for the electrician to run wires across joists without drilling every joist.
> 
> Every house I've ever worked in or built has strapped ceilings. Doesn't matter the age. It's a Boston thing.
> 
> Peace,
> Bob



Lots of strapping around here. All the old buildings are strapped. I don't use nails or staples since they can work loose over 50-100-200 years. I also don't use the 1X3 I can get - too crappy, too easy to split. Really, the furring only takes out unevenness if you shim or adze.


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## Rich D.

Tom M said:


> Rich other than the name I still dont know what material its made of or what size it is. Can you tell us?


Heres a few brands.

http://www.gp.com/build/toughrock-cd-ceiling-board

---

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...2C7HXn4AFIk0cfxkcWwL28w&bvm=bv.47810305,d.dmg 

---

http://www.usg.com/rc/data-submitta...iling-base-sag-resistant-submittal-WB2257.pdf 

Its basically reinforced 1/2" drywall.

The good thing about being able to use 1/2 on the lids are..

Not having to stock 5/8 on the job

Less weight to hang

you can use any extra sheets or scrap on the walls so theres less waste.

And its easier on the tapers to wipe down the first coat and less mud to fill because the tapers on the edges arent so severe like found on a 5/8 board.


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## FullerFramer

Inner10 said:


> I live knee deep in strapping country. Everything here is strapped.
> 
> Rich, drywall screws are 1-1/4...sheetrock is 1/2 and strapping is 3/4....not much is going to be biting into your framing unless you go with 2" screws.
> 
> If anyone has ever seen a strapped ceiling collapse because the staples pulled out please post a picture.


You're right, staples are the way to go. I use 7/16" medium crown 16 gauge x 2" staples. 3 staples at every joist or rafter and it's not going anywhere. I can count on one hand the amount of times I've actually seen a staple split crap 1x3.


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## Tom M

Rich here I thought you were you using another type of "lumber" board for strapping.


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## B.Scott

The strapping we get around here is usually spruce. The stuff at the lumber yard is better than what they have at Home Depot. If you set the gun to shoot the nail flush and use finesse it won't split. Or at least the splitting is minimal. 

After strapping you can sight it from one end and bang the strapping down where the joist is crowned up too much. Then you can shim that spot. That's the same thing I would do on a soffit before putting a facia on. If that makes sense. 

Yes it's ok with the code around here to run electrical between strapping stapled to the bottom of the joist. I think it needs to be at least 1-1/4" away from the strapping edge but I'm not sure on that. It is done every day here though. 

Another advantage is that it gives nailing for all your partitions that run the same direction as the joists. 

To each their own. 

Peace. 

Bob


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## Rich D.

Tom M said:


> Rich here I thought you were you using another type of "lumber" board for strapping.


Nope. I was the guy saying not to waste his time with strapping.


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## hdavis

B.Scott said:


> Yes it's ok with the code around here to run electrical between strapping stapled to the bottom of the joist. I think it needs to be at least 1-1/4" away from the strapping edge but I'm not sure on that. It is done every day here though.


Generally OK here as well, but an inspector in one town required I put metal plate over the wires a couple years ago. First time I'd run into that...


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## Tom M

I was think armored cable would be needed if it was that close to the surface. Like basements with similar framing.


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## hdavis

You would think, but remodels usually wind up fishing Romex across the ceiling. The issue came up on a trenched ceiling - that had to be protected at every joist before patching.


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## Inner10

Tom M said:


> I was think armored cable would be needed if it was that close to the surface. Like basements with similar framing.


Not here, if you are drilling through a member there is a depth threshold that requires a protector plate, but no minimum in a raceway. 

Still waiting for all those stories of nailed strapping pulling out and coming home to see the ceiling on the floor. :laughing:


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## Tom M

It sounds funny with drywall and I dont believe it will ever pose a problem but I have seen quite a few dropped sections of Acoustic tile ceilings. They are a lot of fun to repair.


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## hdavis

Inner10 said:


> Still waiting for all those stories of nailed strapping pulling out and coming home to see the ceiling on the floor. :laughing:


As far as I'm concerned, once the strapping has pulled 1/4" or so away from the joist, it's a non-catastrophic failure. The ceiling starts bowing, and I'd imagine most of the time it's noticed before dropping. Floor vibration on the floor above seems to cause it, I haven't found a problem where there is unfinished attic space above.

200 year old plaster ceilings with nailed strapping, 60 year old nailed strapped ceilings with drywall, I'd say about 20 percent of the old ceilings with occupied space above that I've worked on have started to pull loose.

Ring shank should be better, and really long staples will curve in the wood and fish hook in so either may be OK for the long term. I know for a fact screws won't pull out, so that's what I use.


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## Inner10

hdavis said:


> As far as I'm concerned, once the strapping has pulled 1/4" or so away from the joist, it's a non-catastrophic failure. The ceiling starts bowing, and I'd imagine most of the time it's noticed before dropping. Floor vibration on the floor above seems to cause it, I haven't found a problem where there is unfinished attic space above.
> 
> 200 year old plaster ceilings with nailed strapping, 60 year old nailed strapped ceilings with drywall, I'd say about 20 percent of the old ceilings with occupied space above that I've worked on have started to pull loose.
> 
> Ring shank should be better, and really long staples will curve in the wood and fish hook in so either may be OK for the long term. I know for a fact screws won't pull out, so that's what I use.


I'm not too concerned...if in 50 years my ceiling collapses I'll post pics on contractor talk. I still think a staple will hold better because the wood splits into toothpicks before the fastener ever comes out...and staples hold the splintery crap better.


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## GCTony

I'm not getting why more folks aren't suggesting RC1 channel. The OP's situation is exacly what it's ment to be used for.


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