# Rheem



## SuperGlazier (Jan 16, 2009)

Ok mates... First, I hope everyone had a fantastic Thanksgiving!

And now...

I have a Rheem Premium Classic 90 Plus furnace. Mod# RGRA-07EMAES. Manufactured 08/2005 installed roughly 10/2005. We moved in the home in 06/2006.

When the builders contractor installed it they didn't run the intake... I know they can run fine without it being double piped but as of last year the flames have been snuffing out. If I take the front top cover off they stay on... I'm assuming it is because the furnace can breath better... Voltages are normal, 27v and amp draw from inducer is good, .8 (motor lists .75ish).

Error is a steady flashing green pointing to the flames being out, go figure. I checked voltage everywhere last year and came out to same readings as above but didn't have anything to the gas valve... so I decided hell I'm still under warranty and I just replaced the board and I was good to go... Not realizing last year I didn't put the cover back on, the furnace ran great! "My better half," happened to see the cover off and brought it to my attention over the spring/summer and of course I put it back on and low and behold I have the same problem this year... Now we have finished the basement off and made different rooms... the furnace room is a larger room though with storage space. There isn't any insulation in the ceiling. I'm thinking that if I pipe the intake my problem will go away... I guess I am asking for some educated guessing here. Thanks in advance ladies and gentlemen.


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## MechAcc (Feb 27, 2005)

If the burner flames snuff out immediately it is most likely not due to not having the combustion air pipe installed. Check the vent pipe for sagging and for wasp nests etc. inside. Other causes possible heat exchanger leak tripping the pressure switch.


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## SuperGlazier (Jan 16, 2009)

MechAcc said:


> If the burner flames snuff out immediately it is most likely not due to not having the combustion air pipe installed. Check the vent pipe for sagging and for wasp nests etc. inside. Other causes possible heat exchanger leak tripping the pressure switch.


 
It's more like it runs for a bit 8-10 seconds then goes out. But only when the door is on. With it off it runs normal... wierd behavior.

Checked the Carbon Monoxide levels at the furnace and am not getting a reading. So that is a good sign.


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## Dr Heat (Dec 25, 2008)

add an intake 3" minimum be sure the exhaust is also 3" (I don't care if the manual says 2" is good or that it has run fine for years) also the intake needs to be in the same barometric zone as the exhaust.


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## Electric_Light (Nov 25, 2007)

BLINK CODES (GREEN LED)
1 Blink - Soft lockout
2 Blinks - pressure switch Circuit open
3 Blinks - Limit circuit open
4 Blinks - pressure switch Circuit closed
5 Blinks - Twin Fault (Optional)


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## Harlemnt (Dec 1, 2010)

Jump out the pressure switch right after the draft motor comes on. Make sure the door is on the burners. See after 8-10 seconds if the burners shut down. If they don't then observe what the flames look like. U may have some thing like a spider web in the draft port and or pressure switch or tubing. If the burners still shut down with the switch jumped then I doubt it's a blocked exhaust.


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## coolmen (Mar 25, 2006)

put the door on and when it fails what does the control bord lights code tell you.
take a photo of the unit so we can see install. sounds like pressure switch cutting out gas valve. what size of pipe how many feet of pipe, elbow, what combustion air used for furnace ?? is it in closet, basement, if closet do you have louvered door to feed furnace. I have installed many of these models


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## SuperGlazier (Jan 16, 2009)

Thank you everyone for your replys, I would have posted earlier but I had to travel to Grand Rapids, MI for work. I will systematically do each and post a reply to each and hopefully one of them will work. Someone decided to borrow my mag light and not return it so I had to go and buy another one today after finally giving up with the principle of finding who took it, lol. I will check the exhaust for blockage first thing tomorrow and then work down the line of suggestions. Thanks everyone.


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## RadRemod (Oct 29, 2009)

I have the same system and had a similur problem every year for the first 3 years. The company that installed it would come out and replace the pressure switch on it. After 2 they come out and up sized the pipe and moved the intake air from the garage to my attic. Since then no problem. Now I know if it were piped outside it might be better but I do have good ventilation in my attic with the gable vents so it seems to be working. I think this is good advice:



Dr Heat said:


> add an intake 3" minimum be sure the exhaust is also 3" (I don't care if the manual says 2" is good or that it has run fine for years) also the intake needs to be in the same barometric zone as the exhaust.


 
Also what are the lights blinking? I have a manual for mine that tells you what the sequence light blinks mean. This should help narrow the problem.

Good luck!


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## Heritage Mt (Dec 8, 2010)

Check the flame sensor. It may need a cleaning with some steel wool. Also is your furnace is close the laundry room and you use fabric softener etc it can deteriorate your connections. I would recommend pulling off all your female connections and making sure there is a good contact. With flame rectification, it relies on dc voltage so has to be clean.


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## Electric_Light (Nov 25, 2007)

Heritage Mt said:


> Check the flame sensor. It may need a cleaning with some steel wool. Also is your furnace is close the laundry room and you use fabric softener etc it can deteriorate your connections. I would recommend pulling off all your female connections and making sure there is a good contact. With flame rectification, it relies on dc voltage so has to be clean.


The amber LED will tell you if the flame rectification current is good, marginal or bad.


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## MechAcc (Feb 27, 2005)

RadRemod said:


> I have the same system and had a similur problem every year for the first 3 years. The company that installed it would come out and replace the pressure switch on it. After 2 they come out and up sized the pipe and moved the intake air from the garage to my attic. Since then no problem. Now I know if it were piped outside it might be better but I do have good ventilation in my attic with the gable vents so it seems to be working. I think this is good advice:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Check the installation instructions. The air intake needs to be in the same zone as the vent. The instructions are very specific.


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## SuperGlazier (Jan 16, 2009)

Ok mates, sorry it took me so long to get back to everyone. Here goes:

1.) Furnace is already piped 3" for exhaust
2.) Didn't see anything in exhaust to confirm blockage but I'm not ruling it out yet
3.) Laundry room is on first floor so I can eliminate that theory but will check the flame sensor


Will update everyone as to what I find as this is really frigin' wierd and now it is becoming a matter of principle to figure it out, lol.


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## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

Wouldn't be suprised if it's simply a matter of taking off the four screws that fasten the burner maniflold to the furnace, removing and cleaning the burners. It possible that there is a buildup of dust on the ___ channel.


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