# Who uses "hot mud" for entire rooms?



## steve-in-kville

I typically don't do more than one room at a time. After reading past threads regarding setting-type mud, I'm tempted to finish my next project exclusively with 45 or 90 minute mud.

I'm making some changes in my finishing techniques and want to do a better job, faster.

I know there's a few here that use hot mud all the time. Like to hear your opinions and comments.

steve


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## cedy

I can't imagine using hot mud all the time. It sets up nice and quick but with a whole room it's really not necessary. Hot Mud also contains glues and such that make it harder to sand -- yea I know they all say easy sand on them. Your going to be spending so much time cleaning your pans and knives that any time saving by using hot mud will be easily wasted. Another thing that many people don't consider is that using different muds will create sanding problems, for example you went around the room with premix and set/imbed your tape. You come in the next day and put a second coat with a hot mud. When you go to sand any premix will sand right off before the hot will- You'll have lines that won't sand out- only getting worse and lots of other issues. So keep using the same type of mud. Keep the hot for patching and stuff and use the premix for your bigger projects. One other little thing , try using gold bond mud- it dries realy quick and smooth without the issues that hot mud has.


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## Mike Finley

I use only setting compounds (hot mud). For a whole house, I doubt I would, for a room, no problem. 90 min mud for the 1st coat and I use mesh for everything but the corners. Some people will tell you that you can't use mesh on the ceiling, but you can as long as you are using setting compounds because they dry harder then drying compounds. I don't know where the thoughts that setting compounds are harder to sand, they are just the opposite, they are easier to sand. *Far *easier.

For a whole room I mix in a 5 gallon bucket and transfer to a pan, you will have to discover how much to mix, but for me it is usually 1/3 of a 5 gallon bucket. After I go around the entire room with the first coat I set up my little blower in the middle of the room and come back 1 hr later to knock down any ridges (usually don't need to do any sanding on the first coat) Repeat the steps I did in for the 1st coat, set up the fan, 1 hr later come back and put on the 3rd coat. This coat I will sand.


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## Sheetrock26

Easysand is good for a couple of things....heavy fills and quick setting. Unless you texture everything, you are not going to tape, finish, and sand a room in one day without it looking like you did just that. If you're doing a whole house save yourself a huge headache, tape with all purpose and finish with lightweight compound. Keep the easysand for major prefills prior to taping if needed and your first beadcoat.


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## Mike Finley

Sheetrock26 said:


> Unless you texture everything, you are not going to tape, finish, and sand a room in one day without it looking like you did just that.



I disagree, but what do I know, we do it all the time.

If it's good enough for Myron Ferguson, I assume it's good enough for me.


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## Robie

I just purchased Myron's video a few days ago to get some helpful hints, etc. In the video, he states he uses the hot mud only for the first coat (taping) and the pre-mix for the next two coats. He does a light sanding after the first coat.
I have to agree that the hot mud is tougher to sand.


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## Greg Di

Sheetrock26 said:


> Unless you texture everything, you are not going to tape, finish, and sand a room in one day without it looking like you did just that.


I have to disagree. I use hot mud all the time for bathrooms with usually have a bunch of angles. When you know how to tape and how to work with hot mud, it is easy to hang and completely tape a whole room in one day. In a bathroom, I get three coats on in one shot using setting for one and two and topping for the third. Remember...hot mud doesn't have to be dry to be recoated. If it's hard enough to not gouge, it's ready for another coat. It will even continue to set with ready-mix layered on top. I come back in the morning and hit it with a radius 360 sander quick and it's done.

I've done rehung dining room ceilings and banged them out in one day too. Gas is too expensive to NOT use hot mud making all those return trips.

Hot mud=good

TIP: If you use hotmud for the first time, don't mix too much, don't use anything less than 45, and mix it a tad wetter than the way you like your ready mix. It's OK to soap it too. Makes a big difference IMO. Once you get used to it, you start making your own 30 by mixing 20 and 45 or making 7 by using hot water with 20.


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## Mike Finley

Greg Di said:


> I come back in the morning and hit it with a radius 360 sander quick and it's done.


I finally got one of those a few months ago. What a difference that thing makes, I love it!:thumbsup:


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## Teetorbilt

I only use hot mud and boat tools like orbital and inline sanders. It's good to have dual purpose tools.


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## Sheetrock26

Well sure, for small projects and patch work it's hot mud and finish coated with topping like Greg Di. I wouldn't dream of doing a whole house this way but for small jobs it wouldn't make sense to make 4 trips and spend $100 in gas for a $400 job.


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## steve-in-kville

Mike Finley said:


> If it's good enough for Myron Ferguson, I assume it's good enough for me.



I read his book and found it very informative. I have a few rooms of drywall coming up (hang - finish - paint) and I was gonna try using the 45 or 90 minute mud for the entire project. I have a few yound boys that like to use a power drill to mix stuff, so maybe we'll be able to keep a smooth operation going.

Thanks for the replies.... keep 'em coming!!

steve


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## Mike Finley

Steve you can turn 90 minute mud into 45 minute mud by mixing it with warm water. A little tip there.


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## steve-in-kville

Mike Finley said:


> Steve you can turn 90 minute mud into 45 minute mud by mixing it with warm water. A little tip there.



I read this somewhere... maybe here on the forums. Thanks for the info.:thumbsup: I'm trying to locate some 90 minute mud in my area. I'm gonna use this on my next project. If I can't apply a pan full in 90 minutes, I better stay out of the drywall business!!

steve


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## slickfin

my family has been in drywall for over 50 years. A lot has changed but it,s nothing unusaual for us to mesh tape and then bed with 45 min. The whole house. The trick is t6o skim with regular mud then it sands nice and easy.


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## Mike Finley

steve-in-kville said:


> I read this somewhere... maybe here on the forums. Thanks for the info.:thumbsup: I'm trying to locate some 90 minute mud in my area. I'm gonna use this on my next project. If I can't apply a pan full in 90 minutes, I better stay out of the drywall business!!
> 
> steve


You might have to be twice as fast as you think. 90 minute mud for me has a workable time of under 30 minutes. Maybe it's the altitude?


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## Eric K

steve-in-kville said:


> I read this somewhere... maybe here on the forums. Thanks for the info.:thumbsup: I'm trying to locate some 90 minute mud in my area. I'm gonna use this on my next project. If I can't apply a pan full in 90 minutes, I better stay out of the drywall business!!
> 
> steve


Home Depot around here carries 45 - 90min and Sherwin Williams has 5mins to 90 mins


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## steve-in-kville

The HD in my area has only 20 minute. I discovered that Lowes handles the 90. SW don't carry it at all anymore.

steve


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## Frankawitz

I have perfected this since 1985, I use all 90 Durabond to do whole houses. I mix the mud up in 5 gallon buckets, I will mix a half a bag at a time and tape all joints and corners, we only use paper tape cause if the house exspands the cracks don't show up, were if you use mesh tape you'll end up with cracks with little checker board affect. I have used hot mud to make crown mouldings. When we do whole rooms we tape and mud then we mix up a bucket of 90 and start with the ceiling and pull it about 1/8" thick then work down the walls, we let it set up then shave the lines down with a 6" knief then we use topping compound and skimcoat let it sit over night and then set up our dust collector and sand it all out to a smooth finish, after we prime with block filler then spot out the room with M&H ready patch, then we sand the spackling then prime with Benjamin Moore's Freshstart. then we paint two finish coats of Benjamin Moore's top of their line of paints. I have used Durabond for 27 years doing basecoat and skimcoat. I have used it to restore historical Homes and Buildings cause I know this stuff will be there for over 100 years. you can take a bag of this stuff and throw it in a pool of water and wait it will get hard as a rock. I contacted USG about using it in place of Plaster and was told that it's harder and will not shrink so you don't have to worry about cracks if a house moves on you.
I have filled gaps in corners 3" wide you just have to learn what you can do with this stuff, just make sure you keep it off your hands, cause if you don't it will cause your finger tips to split like paper cuts and they are a ***** to heal. also make sure that you use a dust mask when mixing it cause if you don't you will taste it and it tastes like metal also it will mess with any fillings in your teeth. Good Luck and just think what your doing.


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## theworx

You can get rid of that metal taste in your mouth with a nice tall glass of latex primer, yum :thumbsup: !!!

I'm a little confused (most of the time) but most of you are stating that setting compound when dry is hard as a rock and others like Mike stated they are easier to sand than premix lightweight compound. Personally, I find it quite hard to sand a rock.

I use setting compounds all the time. Usually patching, prefilling, and complete taping small rooms (bathrooms and bedrooms). I do find it a tougher sand, and as I've said on previous threads, even though the setting compounds harden fast they still have moisture in them. I'm guessing you guys who can finish tape a room in one day are using corner trowels (which coat both sides at once) because using a six inch knife to coat one side on first application and the other side on second application is not happening (because of the moisture still in the corner you just make a mess because the mud is still a little soft).

As far as using a combination of setting and drying muds, it's true, they don't sand the same and can also make a mess of your work. The key to it is to have a very smooth coat done before your final application of mud (and make sure you completely cover your previous coat with your final application). Might have to go a little heavier than usual but will help prevent sanding through the finish and into the setting compound which won't sand off at the same rate the finish coat does... It takes talent, so Kudos to you Mike for having the gentle touch to accomplish what you do in a day!!!


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## troubleseeker

None of the drywall contractors I know of will use hot mud for an entire job. They will bed with it, but always use regular mud on the finish coats. I know from personal experience that although the lightweight hot muds are "sandable" the don't sand anywhere as easily as regular mud, gumming up the sanding pad very quickly. Unless you are good with a mud knife, stay away from the old "Durabond" type mud. This stuff is like trying to sand plaster.


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## thill

I use 90 and 45 for whole houses. (Blue/white bags) But it takes time for the guys to really learn how to use it.

Much lies in how you mix it. Mix thick for filling holes and gaps, medium for taping and blocking at the same time, and thin for skimming.

Once it mostly sets up, run a knife over it to remove any ridges. Once it't dry, it sands like any other mud, when dry, in my opinion. The time you save with it equals $$$ at the end of the job.

Due to time saves, my guys take a room, and do all three coats one after another until they are done that room. Drop a fan, move to the next area. Next day all is dry and ready to sand.

I'll never go back to wet, slow, crumbly, shrinking, cracking, money-sucking ready-mix. Just my opinion, of course.

-TH


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## Frankawitz

I use all Durabond 20,45,90 in the brown bags that easy sand is crap to soft, as for doing whole rooms have been doing them for 21 years:thumbup: . And as for corners your telling me you can't pull both sides:laughing: one after the other, well you need to practice more I do both sides and I only use a 6" taping knife, Oh I have a couple of those corner trowels for my beginners:w00t: who can't do corners, but I think I used them one time and then threw them in my tool bag and they have been there ever since. I finish all my ceilings and walls with topping compound it's so much easier to sand, I can use my hand to sand with. I tape and bedcoat then my second coat is with a second batch of 90 then skimcoat with topping compound. let it set up over night and as long as the humidity is below 60% it drys nice and hard. if the humidity is up above 65% we will put a fan in the room to move the air.


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## TimNJ

Like GregDi, I use it in bathrooms all the time. You have to if you want to make any money on the in and out ones.


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## mistersmooth

I use brown bag dura-bond for first coat on my corner beads. With corners nailed and dura-bonded they will take a beating. Try peeling ultra-flex off when it is applied with brown bag. Impossible. Easy Sand, it peels right off. To make brown bag sand a little easier, start the batch with 1/3 Easy Sand (light wieght). I alway finish with a creamy bucket of USG green lid.


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## ch0mpie

After reading this tread, I used hotmud for the first time. I used mesh, easysand 90 first two coats, finished with blue lid premixed, then wet sanded it the next day. Very happy with the results thanks guys.


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## AtlanticWBConst

troubleseeker said:


> None of the drywall contractors I know of will use hot mud for an entire job. They will bed with it, but always use regular mud on the finish coats. I know from personal experience that although the lightweight hot muds are "sandable" the don't sand anywhere as easily as regular mud, gumming up the sanding pad very quickly. Unless you are good with a mud knife, stay away from the old "Durabond" type mud. This stuff is like trying to sand plaster.



Smooth finish work: We only use it for 1st and second coat. Light weight ready mix for last coat. Comes out better. Easier to sand.

Textured finish: Use all hot mud.

-That's how we do it now, after 21 years of doing drywall.


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## Dr.Hidegood

I can't begin to tell you how much $$$ hot mud has made me .....I made it myself years ago by adding plaster of paris to ready mix in a pinch when I didn't have any . Adding *concrete setting activater* will turn ready mix into hot mud also....the more you add the quicker the set. I LOVE HOT MUD.:clap:


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## Dr.Hidegood

AtlanticWBConst said:


> Smooth finish work: We only use it for 1st and second coat. Light weight ready mix for last coat. Comes out better. Easier to sand.
> 
> Textured finish: Use all hot mud.
> 
> -That's how we do it now, after 21 years of doing drywall.


 Ditto.


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## Forry

Love hotmud... Hot mud for the first two coats... NO SANDING! Just a quick scrape with a knife, and it's ready to top. Then sand and go...:clap:


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## 2qwk4u442

Frankawitz said:


> .............after we prime with block filler then spot out the room with M&H ready patch, then we sand the spackling then prime ........


Hi, Im new here. Frankawitz, where do you buy M&H ready patch!!??

I used this stuff once before and really really liked the results for the job I was doing! Where I bought it previously, no longer carrys it.
In fact, I found this web site by searching the web for this stuff!

HELP! Do you have an old can or something to look at the producer? I cant find anything on the web....manufacturer, etc.

Anybody else see this stuff, or know where to buy it? Black and yellow can with a lid like a paint can. I believe it stated something about being a latex type patching compound.

Thanks! Great site! 
Rob


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## Ted W

Reading this thread I just want to comment, I worked for a company some years ago. When taping one guy was relegated to mixing hotmud while 2 or 3 others were busy applying it. The 'mixer' was set up with a couple of buckets of clean water, a bucket for dumping rinse water and a couple of clean buckets for the compound (20, 45, whatever at the time). We flew through taping like you wouldn't believe. The nice thing is the ones applying the mud wouldn't have to breake stride till lunch time or quitin time. 

Also, we sponged it smooth. NO DUST! :clap:


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## 1KingOfDrywall

*We use 45 and 90 on everything........*

Traditionally a drywall finisher using machine tools would tape 1 day, bed the second,skim the third and so on.......
With 45 or 90 we always mesh everything than hand feed the mud box and bed the entire job the first day. I let the taper fall behind and tape angles by himself with the taping tube.....so at the end of day 1 we are always finished with the bed coat. When we skim, we use plus 3 and just pull it skin tight and it needs almost no sanding. On jobs where its less than 50 sheets, we just got 1 guy steady mixing 20 minute pan by pan with a mini mixer..............45 and 90 makes me money.......I love those 2 guys.:thumbsup:


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## NJPainter

Watch out for those cuts. Hot mud will tear up your skin something fierce if you use it on the regular. Still love the stuff- it's a great product.


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## Frankawitz

Rob
You can pick up M&H Reday Patch in the Black and Orange can at most Home Depots and Lowes in the paint dept or check out SW or BM paint stores also carry it.

As for the cuts on your hands the Durabond will dry out your hands because of the Mica in the mix this is what makes it dry out it will remove all moisture from board mud and your skin, I use vasaline on my hands when they get really bad also have started wearing leather gloves or those new machinc type gloves that are nylon keep the hands out of the mud, ends of my fingers don't split, like having a deep paper cut more of a pain in the but. Then it hurts.


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## AtlanticWBConst

Wow...I posted on this thread last October and it's still going....:laughing:


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## hutch04

hot mud on first coat of butt joints and corner bead is all needed... then skim wit regular mud then touch up and spray... very easy process


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## all drywall

*90 to 45*



Mike Finley said:


> Steve you can turn 90 minute mud into 45 minute mud by mixing it with warm water. A little tip there.


not only can you use hot water but you can use dirty water to (as far as water you use from your 5 gal.you use from your water sanding bucket ie.wet sponges)in a pinch and not next to water... there you are...


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## MudDobber

Nothing better than hotmud...If you know how to use it. 
We've been using it for years. It does wonders. We even add accelerator which I love because once it sets for a few minutes, with accelerator 
(USG Gypson Plaster Accelerator-comes in 1.5 lb container),
it's like play-doh. You can rub out the lap marks and manipulate it. 
We use mesh tape on everything except angles. After taping angles hot mud can be used everywhere. We NEVER sand. Never. The stuff is that good. Although experience with it helps. We do whole houses and repairs with it. Love it. Oh, juggling pans is quick.... wash your hands once in a while. And keep the pans and knives clean.


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## icerock drywall

I use durabond on my tapecoat in small jobs all 3 coats and mix dirty water to make the 90 set to 20 if I want too. Bigger jobs I use 90 on my seams only.


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## AARC Drywall

We use hot mud, but only synco 90 as it sands way easier....some say they sand easy...but no...found that out the hard way. If we are pushed for time, we will tape normal, fill with hot mud, 10" box, and skim out with 12" box , sand and prime. DONE... I have done whole houses that way, works awesome.


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## icerock drywall

my old process was mesh the hole house with extreme mest tape and then durabond 90(not ez sand) the tape coat it all in the same day. I would mix the hole bag and use it all with out it getting hard (I work alone) it would take about 7 bags per house to do my tape coat in one day...90 was just right but then I thought why ...it nuts to do the hole house in durabond . its ok for small jobs 30 sheets or less becouse you can do 3 coats in one day but the hole house...no I stoped doing that ap mud is works for me on big jobs. I think fibafuse is changing me ... becouse the air can get through it and the mud will dry faster than paper tape becouse the paper traps the mud. sorry paper tapers 
my last house I did mesh with hotmud on ceiling seams,butts had mesh then fiberfuse with ap mud on tape coat, inside corners is fiberfuse ap mud . outside corners steel mesh with fiberfuse down the edge , wall seams fiberfuse with ap mud

there is all kinds of ways to mud and I like to mix it up a little ..yes if you want to mix and clean and mix and clean and do a small job 3 coats in one day make $600 or more in one day, yes you can but then the home owner says wow you make too much money and you are rippen me off !!! no more jobs for you but there are some that are very happy too and think your the best :jester:

most finishers use hotmud here and there but you need the right tools too.


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## thezoo

durabond is a b*tch to sand. Smooth w/ knife b4 it hardens. I'm going to look into that USG Gypson Plaster Accelerator. 

My house (built 1992 by pulte) has nearly every inside corner tape loose & edge line crack and most metal cornerbead edge cracked/loose. I've always taped my cornerbeads for that reason alone, but seriously!?! Durabond would have held, no? Probably a high quality paint may have helped most of the paper but not the cornerbeads.


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## icerock drywall

thezoo said:


> durabond is a b*tch to sand. Smooth w/ knife b4 it hardens. I'm going to look into that USG Gypson Plaster Accelerator.
> 
> My house (built 1992 by pulte) has nearly every inside corner tape loose & edge line crack and most metal cornerbead edge cracked/loose. I've always taped my cornerbeads for that reason alone, but seriously!?! Durabond would have held, no? Probably a high quality paint may have helped most of the paper but not the cornerbeads.


steel mesh corners beed is strong .the dyrwall flat steel beed I have not used in 10 years


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## Sir Mixalot

thezoo said:


> My house (built 1992 by pulte) has nearly every inside corner tape loose & edge line crack and most metal cornerbead edge cracked/loose. I've always taped my cornerbeads for that reason alone, but seriously!?! Durabond would have held, no? Probably a high quality paint may have helped most of the paper but not the cornerbeads.


The problem is not enough screws or mud. 
Paint would never help those issues.:no:


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## JHC

The only thing I use hot mud for are patches I plan on painting the same day. All purpose for taping, lightweight for the second, skim coat gets ultra lightweight.


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## icerock drywall

JHC said:


> The only thing I use hot mud for are patches I plan on painting the same day. All purpose for taping, lightweight for the second, skim coat gets ultra lightweight.


 do a patch and wanted to paint it in the same day you never mix durabond with other layers of mud it will never cure right !!!
you should stick with one type of hotmud if you want to do a quick patch> I do 3 or 4 layers of durabond 20 and wash it down with a spunge and wipe it tight with a knife. still would not paint it untill the next day for cure time


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## JHC

Ever hear of a heatgun?


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## r4r&r

JHC said:


> Ever hear of a heatgun?


Shortening the cure time with heat like that doesn't affect the finish? I mean no extra shrinkage, cracking or issues with the top drying while the bottom still hasn't set?


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## ranteso

In most instances we hot mud with a neat tight coat of 45 or 90 and follow up same day with regular.


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## icerock drywall

JHC said:


> Ever hear of a heatgun?



never needed one for mud to dry...But could use one with a battery in the winter to de-ice my locks on my work trailer:clap:


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## icerock drywall

ranteso said:


> In most instances we hot mud with a neat tight coat of 45 or 90 and follow up same day with regular.


ever get a chemical reaction useing other mud on hotmud like mud peeling becouse its not cured?


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## JHC

r4r&r said:


> Shortening the cure time with heat like that doesn't affect the finish? I mean no extra shrinkage, cracking or issues with the top drying while the bottom still hasn't set?


I use hot mud for patches if I want same day painting. Use the heat gun to speed up your dry times, and its easily possible. 

The other method is what I use for finishing. All purpose for taping, lightweight for the second, skim coat gets ultra lightweight. Obviously not something you could do in the same day. Ultra lightweight sands the finest and easiest of all.


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## JHC

Also it needs to be said, the right primers and paint need to be used as well. Using many different muds on the same job can effect the finish otherwise. Many paints absorb so much differently than others. Biggest thing is using the right primer that will seal all of that, and allow as little absorption of the top coats as possible.


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## ranteso

icerock drywall said:


> ever get a chemical reaction useing other mud on hotmud like mud peeling becouse its not cured?


Been doing this for over ten years and never had a problem of any kind. We use durabond and then follow up with either USG Reg, or NG multi-use.


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## Al Taper

I will use hot mud for patches and small repairs.. I have a 5 board repair job to do. Was thinking of doing it in Hot Mud.. Mesh flats, paper tape angles and butts. Use USG Brown bag for frist coat.

Brown bag = Cement :laughing:


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## icerock drywall

Al Taper said:


> I will use hot mud for patches and small repairs.. I have a 5 board repair job to do. Was thinking of doing it in Hot Mud.. Mesh flats, paper tape angles and butts. Use USG Brown bag for frist coat.
> 
> Brown bag = Cement :laughing:


I would just do all 3 coats in durabond 90 ...would not do it any other way


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## icerock drywall

thezoo said:


> durabond is a b*tch to sand. Smooth w/ knife b4 it hardens. I'm going to look into that USG Gypson Plaster Accelerator.
> 
> My house (built 1992 by pulte) has nearly every inside corner tape loose & edge line crack and most metal cornerbead edge cracked/loose. I've always taped my cornerbeads for that reason alone, but seriously!?! Durabond would have held, no? Probably a high quality paint may have helped most of the paper but not the cornerbeads.


you dont need to sand durabond...you put it on smooth:blink:


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## Robinson_Cnst

Sheetrock26 said:


> Easysand is good for a couple of things....heavy fills and quick setting. Unless you texture everything, you are not going to tape, finish, and sand a room in one day without it looking like you did just that. If you're doing a whole house save yourself a huge headache, tape with all purpose and finish with lightweight compound. Keep the easysand for major prefills prior to taping if needed and your first beadcoat.


Those are words of a professional. You will never sell me on the idea of finishing with hot mud. It may sand easier than durabond, but it doesn't finish like lightweight. Have fun sanding boys unless you have phenomenal finishing skills I don't.


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## Frankawitz

thezoo said:


> durabond is a b*tch to sand. Smooth w/ knife b4 it hardens. I'm going to look into that USG Gypson Plaster Accelerator.
> 
> My house (built 1992 by pulte) has nearly every inside corner tape loose & edge line crack and most metal cornerbead edge cracked/loose. I've always taped my cornerbeads for that reason alone, but seriously!?! Durabond would have held, no? Probably a high quality paint may have helped most of the paper but not the cornerbeads.


I see your home was built by Plute There is the problem, In Michigan Plute has been kicked out of Our State 7 times for shottie work, He used the Cheapest Labor and Materials, When I was just starting out all I heard were stories of Home Owners having problems with windows rotting drywall corners always cracking just one thing after another, Now Plute builds houses in a factory:laughing:


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## TBFGhost

There is a builder that did a bunch of work around here and man, 10 years down the road the houses are falling apart...makes good work for me tho....


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## icerock drywall

its been a long time becouse all my jobs have been big but I just did a little bathroom jod 3 coats of hotmud skim wash and no sanding and paint the next day...job done. I used 45 on my tapecoat, 45 with boston water on my 2nd coat, 20 on my 3rd coat and skim with 20 then wash it down with more boston water


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## GCTony

ranteso said:


> In most instances we hot mud with a neat tight coat of 45 or 90 and follow up same day with regular.


Rant, On our smaller jobs (under 60 boards) we use similar methods but we've been having problems on and off over the years with our skim of regular developing little pin holes on our flats. Our skim is usally just that, very tight. (Wipe on...wipe off) We're using USG easy sand and final coat everything with USG blue top. The skim is usally the next day after the easy sand is dry. We don't add anything to either product. Any thoughts?


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## icerock drywall

GCTony said:


> Rant, On our smaller jobs (under 60 boards) we use similar methods but we've been having problems on and off over the years with our skim of regular developing little pin holes on our flats. Our skim is usally just that, very tight. (Wipe on...wipe off) We're using USG easy sand and final coat everything with USG blue top. The skim is usally the next day after the easy sand is dry. We don't add anything to either product. Any thoughts?


on the last coat of easysand on the same day wash down and wipe tight to fill in pin holes


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