# I should know this but don't...



## roundito (Sep 4, 2009)

Hi all,
My name is Andrew Hartman and this is my first visit to this site. Incredible info here and I wish I had discovered contractortalk years ago! My background is in landscape/masonry but I have a framing question. 
I'm working on my own house and am trying to add a couple windows to a first story wall (of a two story structure) that doesn't have any windows. Wouldn't you know that as soon as I removed the drywall I see in the very center of where I wanted to put a 34"x 38" window there is an 1 1/2" sch. 40 PVC pipe running straight up from bottom floor to roof. Pretty sure this pipe vents air from the kitchen and/or bathroom sink.
Is there a simple way to move this pipe around the header and window? I was going to use 45 elbows to get around the window up top, but when I have to dive back in to get the bottom I would have to punch through the king and jack studs. They are only 2" x 4" and coring out for the pipe would do a serious number on them. Access to the basement is VERY limited and I can't seem to figure this one out. Any ideas out there?


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

roundito said:


> Hi all,
> My name is Andrew Hartman and this is my first visit to this site. Incredible info here and I wish I had discovered contractortalk years ago! My background is in landscape/masonry but I have a framing question.
> I'm working on my own house and am trying to add a couple windows to a first story wall (of a two story structure) that doesn't have any windows. Wouldn't you know that as soon as I removed the drywall I see in the very center of where I wanted to put a 34"x 38" window there is an 1 1/2" sch. 40 PVC pipe running straight up from bottom floor to roof. Pretty sure this pipe vents air from the kitchen and/or bathroom sink.
> Is there a simple way to move this pipe around the header and window? I was going to use 45 elbows to get around the window up top, but when I have to dive back in to get the bottom I would have to punch through the king and jack studs. They are only 2" x 4" and coring out for the pipe would do a serious number on them. Access to the basement is VERY limited and I can't seem to figure this one out. Any ideas out there?


 What's on the floor? Possible to roll back the carpet and access the pipes through an access in the subfloor?


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## roundito (Sep 4, 2009)

The 1 1/2" pipe goes right through the sill plate into the basement. Flooring is 3/4" oak on top of what looks like OBS. I was trying to avoid going into the floor because my wife loves that carpet and doesn't want me pulling it up based on what I did to carpet in another room...
If I have to I might be able to squeeze into that basement but I was hoping for a framing fix. I was even considering splitting the pipe into two 3/4" pieces and sending each side through the king studs and around the header. I was thinking that would lessen the damage to the studs, plus I could double up on each stud for extra strength. 
Maybe I should stick to landscaping!


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## Rickle (Aug 24, 2009)

Maybe you could put one of these under the new window.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/autovent.html

I've used them for basement remodels.


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

This may sound like a stupid question but is this a bearing wall?


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

roundito said:


> If I have to I might be able to squeeze into that basement but I was hoping for a framing fix. *I was even considering splitting the pipe into two 3/4" pieces and sending each side through the king studs and around the header.* I was thinking that would lessen the damage to the studs, plus I could double up on each stud for extra strength.
> Maybe I should stick to landscaping!


 Keep in mind that 1 1/2" pipe is the equivelent to four 3/4 " pipes in area. Personally, I would lean toward relocating the pipe to one side of the opening or possibly a different window layout altogether.:thumbsup:


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## roundito (Sep 4, 2009)

Yes, it is load bearing. It is the first floor of a two story with a half basement underneath. The siding is masonite and all framing is 2x4.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

You normally don't want to add turns to a vent pipe, - - can you do a double window with the existing vent going up a hollow mull in the middle??


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

roundito said:


> Yes, it is load bearing. It is the first floor of a two story with a half basement underneath. The siding is masonite and all framing is 2x4.


you did not answer my question
Even on two story square houses typically there are only two bearing walls and the other two are not bearing.
does the floor above and roof bear on the subject wall or is it in the gable end?


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## naptown CR (Feb 20, 2009)

Tom R said:


> You normally don't want to add turns to a vent pipe, - - can you do a double window with the existing vent going up a hollow mull in the middle??


It is legal to offset a vent pipe horizontally once you are above flood level rim of the highest appliance it serves. A safer route would angle it at 45 degrees till the floor height above then offset as necessary.


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

If this is just a blank wall you could fir the wall two inches and run your vent there w/o damaging any load bearing studs. Tell the wife the room was too big anyway.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

naptown CR said:


> It is legal to offset a vent pipe horizontally once you are above flood level rim of the highest appliance it serves. A safer route would angle it at 45 degrees till the floor height above then offset as necessary.


Actually, 6 inches above, but it's a last resort.

Anyway, my main point was to give him a way to do the job, - - do remember he said it was 'centered' where he wants to put a window(s).


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## NNY (Aug 29, 2009)

I would talk to a local plumber , get his take on it . No offense guys the replies all sound reasonable .


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

NNY said:


> I would talk to a local plumber , get his take on it . No offense guys the replies all sound reasonable .


 My plumber would suggest a 4" hole saw 

No offense taken.


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## DTrem (Jun 24, 2009)

I agree with Tom R I often recommend installing mulled units when there are no windows in the room reasons are.
1. More sun light makes for a brighter room.
2. If window AC units are used one has the AC unit installed and the other 
window can be oppenned for fresh air when AC is not needed.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

If it was me and it wernt end of run i would install a durgo. I notice that some codes do allow them but im unsure in your area. As long as the end run vents to atmosphere for posositive pressure then Durgos work well. A local plumber will know the codes better though.


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