# 2/12 using GAF Liberty products



## 1967 chevell (Mar 20, 2008)

I am doing my first shallow roof using the above products. Its only 3.5 squares but I have not used GAF Liberty base and cap before. Does anyone have any advice on installation other than the instructions. It shows an occassional nail but what about the edges. Can I depend on the product sealing along the edges without using any adhesive. The runs are only 28' so I do not have any seams to deal with. Of course they would have a 6" chimney flashing in the center. Let me know if I can clear anything up.


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## Slyfox (Dec 22, 2007)

i never used the stuff before so am not sure but my instincts tell me to do it the same as if it was epdm, torche down etc.
install over the drip edge at the eave and under the drip edge on gables than strip the drip edge in.

You can not use fasteners on the edges unless you plan on stripping them in
(no exposed fasteners).
http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/20352.pdf


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## Marsh (Apr 28, 2008)

The entire GAF Liberty system is installed using zero fastners! You do need adhesives at eave edges, and also when sealing to the finished side. As far as a chimney, it is a matter of flashing detail just like EPDM ect... We have used the system on 250 sq of commercial w/ 50+ skylights and no problem. But that is not to say I don't perfer EPDM. I do like the SBS roof for residential though. You should be able to find some Info on the recommended flashing and general details. Once you do, you will find a 3rd grader could install it. Good Luck!


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## Slyfox (Dec 22, 2007)

Marsh said:


> The entire GAF Liberty system is installed using zero fastners! You do need adhesives at eave edges, and also when sealing to the finished side. As far as a chimney, it is a matter of flashing detail just like EPDM ect... We have used the system on 250 sq of commercial w/ 50+ skylights and no problem. But that is not to say I don't perfer EPDM. I do like the SBS roof for residential though. You should be able to find some Info on the recommended flashing and general details. Once you do, you will find a 3rd grader could install it. Good Luck!


 
If you click on the link i posted you'll see fasteners are required at certain slopes, or atleast the manufacturer suggest you use them anyhow.


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## RoofGod (Mar 21, 2008)

Most if not all manufactures call for the membrane over the edge and under the metal on the entire perimeter then stripped in.


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## RooferJim (Mar 6, 2006)

With Liberty or others like it you first put down your base sheet, then edge metal,then prime the edge metal flange,then self stick cap sheet. In cold weather you WILL need to put some fasteners in the underlap and have a heat gun handy for side laps. Flashing details are critical and are nothing like EPDM and no they can not be done by a third grader as previously stated.
Experience and carring are everything.Yes we have installed a lot of the stuff.


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## Slyfox (Dec 22, 2007)

RoofGod said:


> Most if not all manufactures call for the membrane over the edge and under the metal on the entire perimeter then stripped in.


I never could understand why the manufacturers couldn't come up with something better than having a back water lap in the roof at the eave end were all the precipt runs to drain.
On commercial work where there would be 100's feet of eave i would have to place the roof under the metal and strip it in, i have never done it on redidential jobs where your talking about 5, 10, 20 feet of eave, i just take extra precaution for a solid seal.


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## mattp (Apr 5, 2006)

We are getting ready to use this stuff for a 20sq commercial job. I have used it several times on res. but never done a commercial job. There is several pipes and sides walls all the way around. I will post pics. as I go so you guys can tell me what you think.


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## RooferJim (Mar 6, 2006)

you don't strip in metal with liberty. its betwen the plys.


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## RoofGod (Mar 21, 2008)

I haven't installed liberty products so that may be true. I don't differentiate between commercial and residential. I do it the same either way. I believe the reason for installing the metal over the cap is to get a mechanical attachment of the roof at the perimeter and not rely on the adhesion only to hold it all on. I have seen guys put the 9" strip down under the metal first then burn the cap to it and the metal. It looks good with no buck laps but still depends on the bitumen as the securement.


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## A W Smith (Oct 14, 2007)

*Rolls Of Lasagna by GAF*

Used it once 6 or 7 years ago will never use it again. the rolls i got were defective as they must have been rolled up too tight or when they were hot as the outside of the rolls were stretched and flared. Making the edges wrinkled when installed. Wont touch that s*** with a ten foot pole anymore. This was a roof i had to get done on a Christmas eve before an impending snow storm. So I could not exchange the product. add to that I had to carry the rolls up a two story mansard because arzee mid state supply refused to boom it because it was only 6 square total under their 10 square minimum. never mind that it was base AND cap.


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## mattp (Apr 5, 2006)

I guess if it matters I am using Certainteed Flintlastic Sa 3 ply, not GAF.


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## OldNBroken (Feb 8, 2008)

If you are using flintlastic, don't skimp and not use the mid-ply. Nail your base, install your mid-ply, THEN install the perimeter metal and prime it (get a gallon of their primer), then the capsheet. With all three plies, it's a pretty good system.


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## 1967 chevell (Mar 20, 2008)

I did the job today, mid 70's and sunny. It doesn't give you much time for the base, the cap is more forgiving in the sun. I also had to go around a 6" galvanized chimney. I had about a 1/2" strip of backing on the cap that REFUSED to come off. Thanks for the input though. But I will tell you what, that sum-buck is tough as nails. I could not rip it with my bare hands like regular rolled roofing. I just hope I never have to tear it off someday. There is no way a guy can do it. Anyone had to tear off ice and water paper to reroof yet???


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## Slyfox (Dec 22, 2007)

I did one that had Grace, pulling it off real plywood was like scraping a base sheet off gypsom that had been mopped down.
Never had to pull any of the others up yet, but i would think tamko's, certainteeds, etc., would be easier.

I should add, the only reason we had to pull it up, is because the folks responsible for setting the construction codes in Trumbull County, are some kind of crack heads or X hippies living in an LSD flashback or something, they have codes that really stretch the lines of common sense.


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## kylemfk (Nov 1, 2006)

A W Smith said:


> So I could not exchange the product. add to that I had to carry the rolls up a two story mansard because arzee mid state supply refused to boom it because it was only 6 square total under their 10 square minimum. never mind that it was base AND cap.


 
Curse that Arzee


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I had the pleasure of doing Awplan last week. The job was flawless and neat and clean till I was unloading the truck. Someone forget to completely close the lid and I had adhesive up the side of my body in which I nearly got into my other truck before finally noticing. GRRRRRRRRR. How about that Bankor sytem? I dont know if they still make it or not. Im a little out of the roofing loop the last few years. Thats another primer to deck application with-out base that will be murder to remove in the future.


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## slugator (May 23, 2008)

*Where to get Liberty?*

I'm in Southern California and doing my first low-slope job for a residential customer using the Liberty system. 

The job is only 4 sq. and should be fairly simple. Does anyone know where I can get the Liberty supplies I need for this small of a quantity?

Thanks.


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## 2ndGen (Apr 6, 2006)

About to lay down 13sq 2:12 roof...not details but a hatch and a couple of pipes with a tiny 2' deck. 

Current plan (deck ripped off already): Cold Applied SBS over base sheet. 

I've been dancing with the idea of using Liberty or Flintastic for ease of application + all of the benefits that come with it. 

However, will either stand the test of time? 

Is there anyone out there with an install that was done years ago? 

If so, how's it holding up? 

Thanks.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I've done many Awplan at least 10-15 years back never a call back and still working. Most flat systems are set up for 10 year warranty. I think I used liberty only once or twice I dont have a track record of that.


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