# Type of Mortar/grouting daylighted drainage tile



## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

I've daylighted my weeping tile through the ground level face of my pisa2 blocks. I cut a tiny square out of the pisa2, to allow the round 4" weeping tile to be daylighted. Because my opening is square, and my weeping tile is round, there are tiny open areas in the corners. Instructions recommend grouting this area, to stop drainage rock from escaping or working it's way out these holes. Problem is, it doesn't specify what material to use. Is it topping concrete, is it concrete mix, is it mortar? 

What is the best product to use?

Thanks guys!


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

who cares...use whatever....not concrete but sand mix or type N or Type S or hydraulic cement, non shrink grout..I can't see it mattering one bit


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

dom-mas said:


> who cares...use whatever....not concrete but sand mix or type N or Type S or hydraulic cement, non shrink grout..I can't see it mattering one bit


Thanks for your response, the instructional video online, the guy says he's using a concrete mortar, which is what through me off. I assume he's mixed up the words cement and concrete?

I've got some premixed type s kicking around somewhere, i'll go ahead and use that.

Why would concrete be a poor choice in this application?


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

concrete isn't used where the area is so small


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

I agree. This is a dry stacked interlocking retaining wall, regardless of what you use, it's material between concrete and hollow plastic. It will crack and eventually erode, but a standard grout will serve the purpose as well as anything.


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

dom-mas said:


> concrete isn't used where the area is so small





dielectricunion said:


> I agree. This is a dry stacked interlocking retaining wall, regardless of what you use, it's material between concrete and hollow plastic. It will crack and eventually erode, but a standard grout will serve the purpose as well as anything.


This is what I thought, that it would eventually crack and look ugly because of the materials that are being bonded. I've seen many jobs where the contractor hasn't bothered filling the small voids with any type of cement. Anyone think that it would be better just to leave them open?

In the long run, I'm sure it doesn't matter regardless.... it isn't going to make or break the wall. I'm just kind of curious in terms of a debate. Would these materials bond well, would the bond last, would it be better to just not fill the voids, avoiding maintenance in the future of repairing the mortar fill?


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I can't imagine a world where it matters that much


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

dom-mas said:


> I can't imagine a world where it matters that much


It will look like **** with or without mortar.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

I would just toss a bucket of 1 1/4" stone behind it. 
It's not tile work.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

Nice cut btw. But a stronger way would have been to cut 2" out of each block so the block above spanned the pipe. That beautiful cut is going to crack right above the inside corner.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

If it's too late to change don't sweat it. The block system is designed to move with the environment.


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

We use a different method that reduces the size of the cut in the block to about 50% or less of the block height, it reduces the risk of what CJCarl described.

This is not the exact product we use, but it is similar enough for you to get the idea. 










http://www.egutter.com/GUTTER-GUARD...ts/Extend-A-Spout-Low-Profile-Drainage-System


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

tgeb said:


> We use a different method that reduces the size of the cut in the block to about 50% or less of the block height, it reduces the risk of what CJCarl described.
> 
> This is not the exact product we use, but it is similar enough for you to get the idea.
> 
> ...







That is pretty slick ! Looks like it does not decrease the volume of the pipe either. It has a tendency to be less noticeable also !


Thank you for sharing,never saw one before.:thumbsup:


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

CJKarl said:


> Nice cut btw. But a stronger way would have been to cut 2" out of each block so the block above spanned the pipe. That beautiful cut is going to crack right above the inside corner.





CJKarl said:


> If it's too late to change don't sweat it. The block system is designed to move with the environment.


Thanks for your valuable input, it's not to late. I'll definitely consider it, It didn't cross my mind that the cut would crack.


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

tgeb said:


> We use a different method that reduces the size of the cut in the block to about 50% or less of the block height, it reduces the risk of what CJCarl described.
> 
> This is not the exact product we use, but it is similar enough for you to get the idea.
> 
> ...


I did invest in a pretty nice floor drain that I was going to slide into the end of my weeping tile, to aesthetically make it look nicer, and also to prevent little critters from venturing inside. But... I'm gonna give your idea a try.

I'm gonna guess the one you buy inserts onto the end of 4" weeping tiles?

Another great tip!


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

Just an idea for future installations. I never use the corrugated drainage pipe for the following reasons. One,the inside corrugations catch silt and plug easier,the roll has a tendency to conform to undulations in trench if grade is a tad off,lastly,not as crush resistant.


The pipe of choice for me is SDR #35 also,easier to connect long sweep 90 degree elbows up to grade for clean outs. Just a thought.


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

Dual wall pipe is available and is pretty strong. Hancor Pipe.

http://www.hancor.com/product/low_head.html

It is also smooth inside so you reduce the risk of leaves and sticks creating a clog.

I never use the corrugated roll of pipe anymore.

Most of the rain drainage piping we install is schd. 40 PVC.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

As a side note, those %$%$% tiger mosquitoes breed extremely well in that corrugated [email protected] We should be keeping all corrugated stuff underground only. Instead, use smooth PVC, with weep-holes, as necessary. My two cents. (I hate those striped little sob's.....)

Let's start a movement. Who's in?


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## Antropovsky (Apr 12, 2014)

Hey guys thanks for the help on this project. Here is a finished picture!


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