# Application of USG Tuff-Hide versus USG First Coat



## JMC1981

Yes, that's correct. Just as the videos show. I believe the bucket calls for the same thing. 

You will know when you need to replace the tip. You can easily get 150+ sheets out of a 625-627 tip from my experience. 

One other piece of advice since this is your first time using it: don't be afraid to keep the gun a decent distance away from the ceiling while you're getting the hang of it. With a lot of other primers and paints it's ok to keep the gun real closer to the surface you're spraying. With Tuff Hide, as the videos show, it's ok to have a little distance especially while you get the hang of the product.


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## JMC1981

How did it turn out?


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## anchorofhope

I'm gonna be spraying it this afternoon. I'll let you know


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## JMC1981

anchorofhope said:


> I'm gonna be spraying it this afternoon. I'll let you know


God Speed! Definitely let us know how it turned out.


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## anchorofhope

being the first time i've sprayed i guess it went ok, but wasn't exactly what i was hoping for. i got a few spots where i must have slowed down to much cause the spray really built up. then there are a few other spots that you can see the mesh tape outline, it's weird though because it was completely smooth with compound before spraying. my guess is that the compound absorbs the tuff-hide leaving the outline of the mesh tape.

i'm going to use a porter cable 7800 power sander on it and hopefully that'll smooth everything out. what grit do you hit it with? i was thinking either 150 or 220 cause i don't want to be to aggressive or leave swirl marks.


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## JMC1981

anchorofhope said:


> being the first time i've sprayed i guess it went ok, but wasn't exactly what i was hoping for. i got a few spots where i must have slowed down to much cause the spray really built up. then there are a few other spots that you can see the mesh tape outline, it's weird though because it was completely smooth with compound before spraying. my guess is that the compound absorbs the tuff-hide leaving the outline of the mesh tape.
> 
> i'm going to use a porter cable 7800 power sander on it and hopefully that'll smooth everything out. what grit do you hit it with? i was thinking either 150 or 220 cause i don't want to be to aggressive or leave swirl marks.


Yeah, I usually use a dulled out 120 grit disc. Turn the Porter Cable power sander on low and just slowly go over the surface. If you have experience with the porter cable sanders don't worry too much about swirling it, i've never had a problem but I also run a power sander almost daily. 

Really, on ceilings, the problem you're going to run into is if you aren't on the move. When I first started spraying it I used to get build up in the corners. Because when I was boxing in the ceiling I wouldn't turn on the corner quick enough essentially building it out on that spot. As long as you're continuously moving with the spray gun you should be fine. But it does take some getting used to. The guy who taught me pretty much told me to put it on so heavy that it was practically raining from the ceiling.


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## professionalJ

it ( tuff hide) calls for a spray finish but sometimes you cannot achieve a spray finish. like on a cathedral ceiling with scaffolding, stretch planks over stairwells and even sections you can only reach with an extention ladder, a spray finish is not going to happen under those conditions, it would be like painting a car that is dangling from a crane from a mason scaffold! but the builder wanted to use it so i backrolled it twice and it looks fine. any stippling that happens is not going to be any worse than the stipple from the paint.


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## JMC1981

professionalJ said:


> it ( tuff hide) calls for a spray finish but sometimes you cannot achieve a spray finish. like on a cathedral ceiling with scaffolding, stretch planks over stairwells and even sections you can only reach with an extention ladder, a spray finish is not going to happen under those conditions, it would be like painting a car that is dangling from a crane from a mason scaffold! but the builder wanted to use it so i backrolled it twice and it looks fine. any stippling that happens is not going to be any worse than the stipple from the paint.


It calls for a spray finish because its marketed as a Level-5. To achieve a level-5 finish with Tuff Hide it has to be a certain amount of mils; meaning you have to spray it on heavy, crosshatched, no drying time in between coats. If you do that, its impossible to roll it and make it look like anything but a textured mess. 

If you're rolling this product on you're not achieving the Level-5 finish. Because of that, my opinion is, you're wasting your money if you're rolling it. Go grab some promar or masterhide and you will get a similar finish at a much cheaper price.


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## iDAHOchris

professionalJ said:


> it ( tuff hide) calls for a spray finish but sometimes you cannot achieve a spray finish. like on a cathedral ceiling with scaffolding, stretch planks over stairwells and even sections you can only reach with an extention ladder, a spray finish is not going to happen under those conditions, it would be like painting a car that is dangling from a crane from a mason scaffold! but the builder wanted to use it so i backrolled it twice and it looks fine. any stippling that happens is not going to be any worse than the stipple from the paint.


 Level 5 should be smooth,less stipple the better. That doesnt sound too dificult the situation described,get up there and spray it.. Someone had to drywall it so I believe you can get up there and spray" Sound off like you got a pair"


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## JMC1981

iDAHOchris said:


> Level 5 should be smooth,less stipple the better. That doesnt sound too dificult the situation described,get up there and spray it.. Someone had to drywall it so I believe you can get up there and spray" Sound off like you got a pair"


Exactly. If someone hung the sheet rock up there, I can cover the windows or beams to be able to spray to a finish.


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## Robinasu

*Tuff-hide over painted walls*



JMC1981 said:


> Last but not least, if you're going over new unprimed drywall you don't have to worry about the paint 'running' as long as you don't screw up badly. However, if you're planning on going over old drywall that has been painted, I recommend putting on multiple light cross hatched coats. Meaning, instead of trying to billow it on there on your first two coats, try applying 4-6 light coats with some drying time in between. I have seen Tuff Hide run on old walls multiple times and it's not fun trying to roll a wall out with that much tuff hide on it and making it look right.


The tuff-hide instructions don't mention use over painted walls. How does the "leveling" properties work out over painted walls with some heavy nap stipple and runs? Should I skim coat, or might the tuff hide, applied with multiple coasts, flatten out the wall?

Any additional tips about applications over previously painted surfaces are appreciated.


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## JMC1981

Robinasu said:


> The tuff-hide instructions don't mention use over painted walls. How does the "leveling" properties work out over painted walls with some heavy nap stipple and runs? Should I skim coat, or might the tuff hide, applied with multiple coasts, flatten out the wall?
> 
> Any additional tips about applications over previously painted surfaces are appreciated.


I have used Tuff-Hide over finish painted walls but I really wouldn't suggest it. You can't build it the way you need to achieve a level five finish on a surface that's already sealed -- it's one of the only times you will see it run. You could spray multiple thin coats, allowing drying time between each coat, to try to achieve a level five finish but at that point I'd just suggest skimming the wall.


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## Robinasu

Roger that. Thanks for the feedback.


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