# cutting pre hung steel door



## superseal

For my own house, i'll be replacing a rear entry door and was hoping to use a Jeld-Wen 30 x 80 steel pre-hung 9 lite system. Problem is, i'll need to knock off 1 1/2" on the height. I can order a 78 to fit, but twice the cost 

I'm thinkin' i'll shorten the frame and cut off an 1 1/2" from the top so as not to mess with bottom sweep and threshold. I believe there is a two inch wood filler around the perimeter and i can pack this back out if necessary.

Anybody see any problems with this?


----------



## Tinstaafl

I've done it, but by cutting off the bottom. Until you get done fouling up the reveal above the lights, resetting the hinges and all, you're better off just pulling the sweep, cutting and then replacing it.


----------



## tgeb

I agree with Tin, I've cut the bottom off a steel door.

This one had a steel "box" at the bottom held in w/a couple screws. removed that, cut put the bottom back on.....done.


----------



## superseal

Tinstaafl said:


> I've done it, but by cutting off the bottom. Until you get done fouling up the reveal above the lights, resetting the hinges and all, you're better off just pulling the sweep, cutting and then replacing it.


Thanks Tin, but I wasn't planning on messing with the hinges. I was hoping to remove the head jamb, knock off the top of side jambs and top of door and re-assemble. I double checked the reveal and it looks feasible - still plenty of meat on it.


----------



## UpNorth

ThermaTru's product manual shows how this is done, with well-written instructions and good graphics. The whole thing is available online in .pdf. But it all relates to TT doors, not JeldWen. Construction details are quite similar, I'll bet.


----------



## CookeCarpentry

You may be rolling the dice on this one - dunno if you got that amount of meat at the top.

I have never cut a steel Jeld-Wen but have done it multiple times to Therma-Tru's. I'm pretty sure they only suggest removing it from the bottom. 

What about taking off the aluminum threshold, cut the door at the bottom, cut the jambs at the bottom, reattach threshold and use an aftermarket door sweep?


----------



## Tinstaafl

superseal said:


> Thanks Tin, but I wasn't planning on messing with the hinges.


Duh. I blew through that too fast. :jester:

Yeah, doing it as you describe, you won't have to mess with hinges. But even for a junker back door in my own house, I'd rather have the factory reveal above the lights. And generally, it's easier/less noticeable to have a decent looking result at the bottom in my experience.

No big deal, with the tools and experience, and being your own house, whatever trips yer trigger. :thumbsup:

One thing, most of those filler strips are only 1.25-1.5", so I'd be surprised if you didn't have to put one in after cutting.


----------



## ApgarNJ

Why are you going steel? they are such crap these days that even with proper painting, they rust out in a few years. I put some nice steel doors in that were primed and painted right away, 5-6 years later and they are rusted on the corners.

have you priced out a fiberglass? I don't see how you can cut it down if it's pre-hung and not mess with the hinges. isn't the sill attached to the legs, you'll be cutting off the bottom of the jambs as well and re-attaching. sounds like a lot of work and I bet it voids any door warranties.


----------



## Tinstaafl

Dan, agreed on the steel doors, but I'm not sold on fiberglass either. I've seen quite a few of them looking like crap after a few years, especially if behind a storm door with southern exposure.

Note that it's an odd size, so you'd either have to special order that fiberglass ($$) or cut down a standard one. That I've never tried.


----------



## ApgarNJ

I know it's for his own house. I've had to order custom sized doors for my house too. you pay more but it goes right in and there's no messing around with it.
I haven't had any issues so far with the fiberglass units i've put in. I can't always talk clients into spending on Marvin aluminum clad doors. those are the best to go with. just cost a lot.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Time is money.

Especially at your own house.

1 hour R&R vs. 6 hours of doinking around.


----------



## loneframer

Order the jamb parts knocked down and a slab. No fussing with disassembly.


----------



## ApgarNJ

I've ordered all my doors for the past several years with Frame Saver Jamb, I wish they made it farther up than just the bottom couple of inches. 

the knock down is a good idea Riz.


----------



## loneframer

ApgarNJ said:


> I've ordered all my doors for the past several years with Frame Saver Jamb, I wish they made it farther up than just the bottom couple of inches.
> 
> the knock down is a good idea Riz.


 I've hung a few Jeld-Wen doors that were full composite jambs.:thumbsup:


----------



## ApgarNJ

yeah. i've seen them. all pvc though right? not sure I'm sold on those yet.


----------



## loneframer

ApgarNJ said:


> yeah. i've seen them. all pvc though right? not sure I'm sold on those yet.


 Not sure of the make-up of the material, but it was very dense and very strong. Very costly as well.


----------



## TheDoorGuy

Hey Gents,
I guess this is a bit off the original topic but regarding jambs:
I have used Auralast jambs from jeldwen in heavy weather 
situations..Treated all the way through somehow.

Found a pretty interesting video online but can't post a link to it 
cuz I'm a new guy!

If you just google Jeldwen auralast you should find it pretty soon.

TheDoorGuy

http://www.jeld-wen.com/learn/auralast


----------



## TimNJ

ApgarNJ said:


> yeah. i've seen them. all pvc though right? not sure I'm sold on those yet.


Ouch! Stay away from the PVC jambs. They are junk. They are also so flexible it's like trying to hang a door attached to a rubberband.
The full composite is made out of a "trex" material. I don't like the prestained fiberglass doors that much either. If you get one with a really dark finish and hang it in the direct sun on a hot day the slab will move on you.


----------



## TheDoorGuy

Hey Tin,
Not sure how you did it but thanks for helping out with that link!!

There's one for a video that shows a test building in a rain forest
or something that collapsed around the still intact windows after a 
year or so.


----------



## Tinstaafl

I have awesome powers. Found the video right after I added that link. :thumbsup:


----------

