# House Addition Section Drawing Help



## duffman1278 (Jan 17, 2014)

Hi Guys, I'm trying to finish up a drawing of mine for my room addition but my section doesn't seem correct. In the pictures I've put here, you can see that the roof rafter doesn't have enough wood to be nailed into the ceiling joist. 

I'm stuck, not sure what to make of this or how to correct this. I can't lower the ridge of the roof because than the point highlighted won't match on the elevation plan.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Can you raise the ceiling so you can do a normal heel connection?


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

Like Andrew said or steepen the pitch of the roof plane so that the rafters will sit on the top plate as they should.
Of course, that might change the height of the fascia and cause all kinds of other bad things.

Andy.


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

After re-reading your post, I see you can not change the pitch. 
Andrew's idea is best for you.

Who drew that detail anyway?

It is flat out wrong, not different but wrong.

Andy.


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## duffman1278 (Jan 17, 2014)

Golden view said:


> Can you raise the ceiling so you can do a normal heel connection?


I can't raise the ceiling height unfortunately or else the city will require calculations.

Scipio - Really? I drew the detail. I used it a long time ago during college.


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## duffman1278 (Jan 17, 2014)

I know the close up of the rafter to the wall is wrong. I showed that to show that at 8'-0" the ceiling doesn't work for me.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

You should probably consult a carpenter, architect, engineer, or a code book (which has proper drawings).


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

duffman1278 said:


> I can't raise the ceiling height unfortunately or else the city will require calculations.
> 
> Scipio - Really? I drew the detail. I used it a long time ago during college.


Yes it is wrong, even if the intention was to cut the bird's mouth and set it on the CJ there is no prescriptive treatment for that. an engineered solution would be required. I do not see engineering on it.
Normal situation is for the RR to set on the top plate. Old school was to toe-nail to top plate, then changed to something like an H-2.5, or other tie. 

Which is much better in my opinion.

Andy.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

We put an A-35 on each frieze block. From the block to the plate, As well.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Raise the wall height for a proper birds mouth. Or use a deeper rafter. How is the rafter fastened in that drawing and what exactly is it bearing on?


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## Rio (Oct 13, 2009)

Or change the pitch on the rafter to have it, as pointed out, sit on the top plate as it's supposed to do, not resting on the blocking; the detail you have is incorrect, won't work and there is way for shear transfer to happen.

Also you should consider getting someone who understands framing design to help with your plans and explain to you what the components are and how they work.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

If you can't raise the ceiling, which I do at any opportunity, raise the wall height for proper birds mouth and run a ledger on the interior wall to hang the ceiling joists on with hangers. PIA, but way to work with YOUR design.


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## MLandry (Aug 12, 2011)

Consider fastening a 2"x 4" plate on top of the ceiling joists and nailing your rafters directly over the joists. Run your wall sheathing up to the top plate to tie it together.

Mike


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## Shellbuilder (May 14, 2006)

Frame wall right height for birds mouth, install ceiling joist on wall plate and fur joist down with suspended 2x4 ceiling. Or make it a vault ceiling.


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## Max00 (Mar 26, 2014)

Better contact a contractor,architect...


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