# Boat Dock Stairs



## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

I have a customer that wants a set of stairs built to his dock. Part of the time the stairs will be underwater depending on the lake level. Has anyone built stairs like this? Do you have to do anything special to keep the stairs from "floating" when the water rises?


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## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

Build them out of ipe as it doesn't float


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

I'll check to see if ipe is in the budget. Really was wondering if I need extra comcrete or if it's even an issue to worry about.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

summithomeinc said:


> I have a customer that wants a set of stairs built to his dock. Part of the time the stairs will be underwater depending on the lake level. Has anyone built stairs like this? Do you have to do anything special to keep the stairs from "floating" when the water rises?



You say built to his dock, but the stair will be underwater at times. So, I'm assuming that the dock will be underwater as well? The steps go from what to what exactly? This is where pictures really help.

Why not have them manufactured from aluminum?


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2012)

Joe Wood said:


> Build them out of ipe as it doesn't float


I second this, unless you can source or create a hinge/floater setup on the stairs themselves come high tide so it purposely floats.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

FYI - regarding Ipe

*Durability*: Heartwood is very resistant to attack by decay fungi and termites, *but not resistant to marine borers*, it has the durability and strength of teak, for a lot less money.The US Department of Agriculture and Forestry rates Ipé as "Very resistant to attack by decay, fungi and termites."


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## Scribbles (Mar 10, 2009)

if its under water why not concrete?


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

I'm going to build off of this


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

This is what the customer wants


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## Mudshark (Feb 12, 2009)

Good point on "floating"

What about using steel for the structure for strength and weight and finish railings and steps with treated wood?

Just a thought - I assume this is fresh water and not salt water


Sorry to invade the Carpentry section but one of your senior posters booted me off the drywall section.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

There are premade stainless steel stairs made just the purpose.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

summithomeinc said:


> View attachment 65033
> 
> 
> This is what the customer wants



From the picture, that looks like p/t material. 
Every project has a budget. What is your's? Did they specify a material? 


FYI:
http://www.contractortalk.com/f4/how-build-small-dock-side-lake-4201/


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## mattsk8 (Dec 6, 2009)

I was at a marina near Philly and the boat docks there all floated. The transition from the dock to land was attached using hinges on each end of a ramp. Super easy.

Just realized you wanted to fasten the steps permantly so I deleted half of my statement. The ramp worked well though. Some senior citizens at this marina and it didn't seem like anyone was struggling.


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

Ok. The stairs will be made from pressure treated lumber. He wants what his neighbor has. (see pic) The dock had a floating ramp with wheels that will run up and down the stairs.The problem right now is the lake is so low his ramp is 15' from the normal shoreline. So he wants stairs to the lake bed to access the dock. I know how to build the stairs. I don't know if I need extra concrete around the posts or if I need some type of extra fastener to attatch the posts to the concrete to keep the steps in place. I plan on 1 80lb bag per post. It may not even be an issue. So the question is, Is there going to be an issue with the steps floating out of the ground when the water rises? And if it's an issue do I just need more concrete around the posts or what?


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

It's a good suggestion to use steel. Unfortunately it's not in the budget and I don't weld so I can't build them. I can build with wood though.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

I think I'd definitely go over-kill here: much larger diameter holes and much deeper than normal, definitely more than 80 lbs.

I have more than 80 lbs holding each of my fence posts.


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

jb4211 said:


> I think I'd definitely go over-kill here: much larger diameter holes and much deeper than normal, definitely more than 80 lbs.
> 
> I have more than 80 lbs holding each of my fence posts.


What would you recomend?


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

16"x16"x48".

Also they have hydro cement that is made to stand up to being underwater and is non corrosive.

Probably isn't allowed by budget though.

I live on the water, but I just use a ladder!


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## robert c1 (Mar 11, 2007)

It looks to me like the neighbors stairs haven't been asked the big question yet.....


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

summithomeinc said:


> What would you recomend?



Hard to say because I'm not familiar with the area, the environment, water table, soil conditions, etc.

I think it would be best to consult with contractors who specialize in dock building. I know I'd want to be as deep as possible - within reason. I'd "consider" 6x6 posts set in 16"-18" diameter holes about 50" deep and filled with concrete. I'd bolt the stringers to the 6x6 posts. All wood framing poly coated and at least .60 pcf for fresh water.


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

robert c1 said:


> It looks to me like the neighbors stairs haven't been asked the big question yet.....


No they haven't. I've seen several built recently. I don't know what they did underground though. Surely someone here has built something similar?


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

summithomeinc said:


> No they haven't. I've seen several built recently. I don't know what they did underground though. Surely someone here has built something similar?



Even if they did, it doesn't necessarily mean that way of building will fit your environment. So many variables. I know we read that a lot here, but it's so true.


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

jb4211 said:


> Even if they did, it doesn't necessarily mean that way of building will fit your environment. So many variables. I know we read that a lot here, but it's so true.


Very true. But I'm hopefull someone with a similar experience may have a solution that could be adapted, if need be, to my own project.


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## robert c1 (Mar 11, 2007)

What I normally see around here is this:

Fixed point at top of bank with a ramp leading down to a floating dock that is tethered to pilings. The ramp slides back and forth on rails attached to the surface of the dock depending on the water height. 

The neighbors stairs just look silly to me but maybe i'm seeing them out of context. How big is the lake? What regulates the water height. Will it return to it's normal level soon? 
What is all that red stuff on the ground?


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

robert c1 said:


> What I normally see around here is this:
> 
> Fixed point at top of bank with a ramp leading down to a floating dock that is tethered to pilings. The ramp slides back and forth on rails attached to the surface of the dock depending on the water height.
> 
> ...


LMAO....The red stuff is Georgia clay..lol...It's Lake Lanier..I think one of the biggest lakes in the SE..could be wrong.. But it is big...The water is down because of a fight over who gets the water. Ga. Fla. and I think Alabama...In this case the ramp will slide up and down the stairs on a 2x12 track on the edge of the steps.. The stairs will be 6' wide then on the edge will be the 12" track that the ramp rolls on that leaves 4' wide of stair.. I'll post another pic of the ramp and dock


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

The dock and ramp


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## martincobb (Feb 12, 2013)

I was recently looking into some options for a recent lakefront property I was working on. The client was looking for a dock stair solution for his new lake home. I was considering having some custom aluminum stairs welded up by a local metal guy.
Wood is never a good idea for a step that is under the water due to breakdown. Aluminum, is great but the steps under water get very slippery unless you clean them regularly. 
While looking for a solution I found a local company that offers a all aluminum stair frame that uses a composite step surface that is great for water use. They offer it in several step models that are expandable for longer travel. 
I haven't made a decision as of yet, and was wondering if anyone has any experience with the dock steps that I found in at the place below.
http://www.boatliftanddock.com/p-788-dock-steps-3-wide-aluminum-hand-rail.aspx

Would love to hear about anyone that has used this stair in a project before.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Floating is the least of concerns for this - wind, wave, and current are. Posts should be set in concrete. 8X8 posts aren't too big, and could be too small if the structure is taking any stresses from the float. Holes would be 14". Can't say how deep, depends on what kind of muck there is.

Keep in mind wet service results in 1/3 derating of wood strength, and nails don't hold very well in wet wood. Bolts are preferred, screws the next best thing. And make them open riser with 2X treads.


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## TLHWindows (Jan 5, 2012)

If you don't want to set the posts in concrete, why not bolt steel/iron to the back of either the stringers or kick plates? Set the poles down in the ground and then the weight of the steel would hold the stairs in place. You may need to calculate the amount of steel vs. how much PT lumber may float. I might also suggest using Marine grade lumber since it may be in water half the year.


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

Little off topic, but at quick glance, I thought the thread title was "Boon Dock Saints"... :laughing:


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Not posts, but a concrete pad at the bottom, with stairs attached. I don't think floating is a problem.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

summithomeinc said:


> I have a customer that wants a set of stairs built to his dock. Part of the time the stairs will be underwater depending on the lake level. Has anyone built stairs like this? Do you have to do anything special to keep the stairs from "floating" when the water rises?


ipe is the only option next alum.

2x12's are about 16lf you can do the math on the rest.


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