# Soffit j trim on uneven stone surface



## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

Hey guys, 

Wonder what you think is the best option for installing soffit j trim on top of an uneven surface (see picture). 

I was thinking putting some wood underneath to hide the gaps between the soffit 3/8" j and the stone and then capping with aluminum. 

Any other ideas? 

Client had already finished the stone up past where the soffit should be.


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## Framer53 (Feb 23, 2008)

Someone built that out of sequence. Where are the doors and door trim?


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

For sure going to be a pain to make look nice now. I always do the soffit first before the stone guys, that way they just run up the stone up to it.

Also going to have to have something hang down like 2x2 or something to fasten the J to , I would not try and fasten it to the stone if it was me.


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## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Think you answered your own question with wrapping some wood screwed through the stone and attach j to it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bummie (May 11, 2007)

Snap a line. Call the stone guys and tell them to bring a mask, they have some cutting to do.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

That's a tight veneer, not that lumpy. Ideally there would have been a cleat set up for a freeze board to finish the eave but I have hung 5/4 vertical nailers to the rafter for nailers.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Bummie said:


> Snap a line. Call the stone guys and tell them to bring a mask, they have some cutting to do.


I can see that being a REAL pain to do and get it wide enough and even for J.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

maybe a frieze detail?l


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Kerf a groove, install nailers, bend and insert metal and j-away...Pain in the butt, but it wouldn't be the first time.

Wonder why they poured a curb with no rabbeted ledge...pretty nice stonework however. Hope they got an iron clad WRB, weeps and good flashing...that veneer is sitting pretty close.


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## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

superseal said:


> Kerf a groove, install nailers, bend and insert metal and j-away...Pain in the butt, but it wouldn't be the first time.
> 
> Wonder why they poured a curb with no rabbeted ledge...pretty nice stonework however. Hope they got an iron clad WRB, weeps and good flashing...that veneer is sitting pretty close.


This. That's going to be the nicest solution.


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## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

hey guys thanks for all the replies really appreciate it.


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## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

superseal said:


> Kerf a groove, install nailers, bend and insert metal and j-away...Pain in the butt, but it wouldn't be the first time.


Could you explain this a little more? Done lots of soffit fascia eaves jobs never really encountered this before though. Would be greatly appreciated thanks again.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I think he means snapping a line on the stone level with the bottom of the finished soffit, scoring a groove into the stone to accept some flat stock coil to hung nailer's, then...install soffit as normal.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Exactly Tom...to do this, you'll need to saw cut a groove in the stone the entire length of the soffit, I'd use a 4 1/2" grinder, fitted with a diamond blade. Depth of the cut will depend on the projection of the stone at it's highest point relative to you being able to run a uniform soffit.

Install nailers either by hanging or directly attached to the stone...I'd probably hang a 2x4 with some spots of PL glue on the back side. Cap this nailer with coli stock and insert the one edge into the kerf cut in the stone. Only way to avoid the saw cut would be to tightly scribe the aluminum. This will give you a fresh edge to mount your j-channel (F-style)and a fairly clean look against the wall.

You may also extend this freeze board/nailer down a bit so it shows the detail and use F as well.

Please excuse my sloppy paint work...


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## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

superseal said:


> Only way to avoid the saw cut would be to tightly scribe the aluminum. This will give you a fresh edge to mount your j-channel (F-style)and a fairly clean look against the wall.
> 
> 
> .


what do you mean by this.. how do you scribe the aluminum?


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

With a pair of dividers of course...or a profiler...both are a must in any toolbox.


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## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

superseal said:


> With a pair of dividers of course...or a profiler...both are a must in any toolbox.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ydOBK20asY


Hey thanks alot man that helps


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## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

superseal said:


> With a pair of dividers of course...or a profiler...both are a must in any toolbox.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ydOBK20asY



can you recommend any other tools similar to this? Having a hard time finding something similar locally at the big box stores like home depot


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Are you a carpenter? You can use any object. You can use a square pencil to ride along the stone and mark a 5/16 - 3/8 offset. Worst case two passes with the aviator snips.


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## jameslondon (Nov 13, 2015)

Tom M said:


> Are you a carpenter? You can use any object. You can use a square pencil to ride along the stone and mark a 5/16 - 3/8 offset. Worst case two passes with the aviator snips.


no I am not a carpenter and thanks for the reply. what do you mean by 5-16- 3/8 offset? thanks


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

superseal said:


> With a pair of dividers of course...or a profiler...both are a must in any toolbox.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ydOBK20asY


That is pretty damn nifty


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

jameslondon said:


> no I am not a carpenter and thanks for the reply. what do you mean by 5-16- 3/8 offset? thanks


Square Carpenter pencils have two sides flat and an edge side. Each side has a different distance to the point.


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