# Festool parallel guides anyone use these?



## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

I have a handful of built in's lined up and was thinking of adding these to my list. Any feed back would great? Pro's / Con's Experiences? 
The videos seem to make them out a to be little fussy with setting up. Hopping the set up / squaring up is pretty much a 1/time thing and not for every application. 
I do have a small shop and very small. So I'm not looking to buy any massive tools. I really like the portability of Festool. I'll build anything anywhere. 


Thank you again, 
Yannis N. Tsakiris
www.citydecksinc.com
www.citypropertiesinc.net


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I have a handful of built in's lined up and was thinking of adding these to my list. Any feed back would great? Pro's / Con's Experiences?
> The videos seem to make them out a to be little fussy with setting up. Hopping the set up / squaring up is pretty much a 1/time thing and not for every application.
> I do have a small shop and very small. So I'm not looking to buy any massive tools. I really like the portability of Festool. I'll build anything anywhere.
> 
> ...



The homemade t track parallel guides look much better to me and I do own the festool version. Its worth a search over there to see if you can buy the one piece thats crucial for using t track. You seem like a busy guy so maybe the festool version is what you need but they're expensive and are best used on a big work surface as they can tip the track up if left without support underneath.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

I Have them, If you are using the railsaw to make repeat cuts on the jobsite they will improve precision and productivity in your projects to pay for themselves after a few builtin jobs. If you are using the rail saw in a shop setting there are better user designed cutting tables available. 
I Converted to fractional by removing the Metric rule and adding steel sticky left and right rules from Starett. I modified the stops so they wont flop down when not supported. I also removed the front cam-lock as they are only necessary if you are using the optional front cut attachment.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

duburban said:


> The homemade t track parallel guides look much better to me and I do own the festool version. Its worth a search over there to see if you can buy the one piece thats crucial for using t track. You seem like a busy guy so maybe the festool version is what you need but they're expensive and are best used on a big work surface as they can tip the track up if left without support underneath.


Hey thanks for the feed back.

cpl of options.
1) which is the core / basic http://www.cpofestool.com/festool-4...l?start=5&cgid=festool-guide-rail-accessories
$252. Which seems reasonable and will pay off rather quickly. 

2) the extensions for shorter run cuts. I think less then 7" which $142. not really a big deal, unless your banging a lot mini shelves. 

3) http://www.amazon.com/Festool-583291-Hole-Drilling-Systainer/dp/B000LWCI0M which is a big ticket @ $465 and don't really need now. Although I do very large custom walk in closet to build in Feb - March so if I'll probably add it later. 

from what I can make out I would use the hell out the # 1 and the guide router attachment for the plunge wholes that fits/clicks into the LR tracks which is what I have. 
As far as the tipping goes I have a solution ti fix. Small pcs of flat alum drilled and screwed in to snug on top of the ply so it doesn’t tip. what a domass oversight from festie... 

Were not busy we’re busy...:clap: So I don't really want to fuss too much.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

charimon said:


> I Have them, If you are using the railsaw to make repeat cuts on the jobsite they will improve precision and productivity in your projects to pay for themselves after a few builtin jobs. If you are using the rail saw in a shop setting there are better user designed cutting tables available.
> I Converted to fractional by removing the Metric rule and adding steel sticky left and right rules from Starett. I modified the stops so they wont flop down when not supported. I also removed the front cam-lock as they are only necessary if you are using the optional front cut attachment.


Thanks. they will be used in the field and partial in shop but as mentioned can't spare the space in shop. 

do you have better pict of you modified the tipsie part. 
also good move with trashing the metric. i was planning doing that as well. 
Thanks again


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

charimon said:


> I Have them, If you are using the railsaw to make repeat cuts on the jobsite they will improve precision and productivity in your projects to pay for themselves after a few builtin jobs. If you are using the rail saw in a shop setting there are better user designed cutting tables available.
> I Converted to fractional by removing the Metric rule and adding steel sticky left and right rules from Starett. I modified the stops so they wont flop down when not supported. I also removed the front cam-lock as they are only necessary if you are using the optional front cut attachment.


I see the anti-tip plate. I was thinking the same thing. Thanks


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

I've yet to take the time to actually set mine up properly. How would i go about adding the imperial measure tape and calibrate it?


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

charimon said:


> I Have them, If you are using the railsaw to make repeat cuts on the jobsite they will improve precision and productivity in your projects to pay for themselves after a few builtin jobs. If you are using the rail saw in a shop setting there are better user designed cutting tables available.
> I Converted to fractional by removing the Metric rule and adding steel sticky left and right rules from Starett. I modified the stops so they wont flop down when not supported. I also removed the front cam-lock as they are only necessary if you are using the optional front cut attachment.


what was the tape size from starrett? 1/2" or 3/4


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

duburban said:


> I've yet to take the time to actually set mine up properly. How would i go about adding the imperial measure tape and calibrate it?


is that why you mentioned the home made version??
set that dam thing up and cut it fast.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

The tape was 1/2"

The tabs are 1/8 aluminum cut to size glued on with "rear-vue mirror" glue and then drilled and tapped w/ #10 and pinned with set screws.

To replace the tape I set each tap to roughly 10" made the cut and (keeping the tabs locked in place) took an exact measure of each end of the cut. then aligned the tape to that exact measure. If you need to make a slight adjustment after you put the tape down you can by loosening the Standard screw.


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## Gary H (Dec 10, 2008)

I have the set and its very fast to make repeat cuts.

They are used on my maktia tracks.


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## Trim40 (Jan 27, 2009)

I just made my own.


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

Gary H said:


> I have the set and its very fast to make repeat cuts.
> 
> They are used on my maktia tracks.


did you have to modify the track? 

my parallel guides won't fit on my 100+" track because of the anti tip lip. i'd have cut it off already if i wasn't worried about ruining the whole track.


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## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

I've got a set and I love them.

I've ended up using the short side more than the long side.

I needed to make a stepped crown backer for the cabinet job I'm on. Made 6 3.5" strips and 6 1.5" strips of 3/4 ply in about 10min without moving the sheet once.

Perfect cuts!


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## Gary H (Dec 10, 2008)

duburban said:


> did you have to modify the track?
> 
> my parallel guides won't fit on my 100+" track because of the anti tip lip. i'd have cut it off already if i wasn't worried about ruining the whole track.


No. They fit tight. By what I mean by tight is the festool had a screw to tighten to the track. When I put it on the Makita tracks, the guides slide on tight. Did not have to tighten the screw. 

They worked on both 55'' and the 118'' track. I do remember that if they were any tighter, that it would be a no go. Seemed like Makita made the tracks to fit snung, maybe to bypass any patents. 

I think they are well worth the cash, because of how easy they are to use and set up. I researched the home made ones and by the time I drew out plans , biought parts and made it, my time would have already put me over budget. 

I built a case for the tracks and all the parts, and its working well.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

Trim40 said:


> I just made my own.


any picts....:whistling


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

picking up a set tomorrow... thanks for the help.

too much wood to burn. :thumbup:


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## Trim40 (Jan 27, 2009)

CITY DECKS INC said:


> any picts....:whistling


I got some on my camera.


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## sancho (Apr 3, 2010)

CITY DECKS INC said:


> picking up a set tomorrow... thanks for the help.
> 
> too much wood to burn. :thumbup:


Youll be happy with them. once you get them set up/ calibrated you'll be loving life. Ripping ply etc. I can rip 8' long shelving with in 1-2mm over the 8' length.

But if you only have to make a quick cut they take time to set up and can frustrate if yer inna hurry.

But over all since I got them and most of the system I very seldom use my table saw.

Still need a table saw which is why festool sells a CMS table saw module thats not available in the North America.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

jhark123 said:


> I've got a set and I love them.
> 
> I've ended up using the short side more than the long side.
> 
> ...


that's the idea.. not to move the ply.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

tjbnwi said:


> The 90 is a great little sander. Great for polishing headlight lenses.
> 
> Look at the RAS, it is one of those hidden gems.
> 
> Tom




i like the ras as well. Think it's perfect for coping and scribing which I usually use a grinder or jigsaw for but do really care for the dust and once i get the ras i'm sure i'll find a ton of other use full applications.


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## CITY DECKS INC (Sep 4, 2012)

hey all who took the time to put there 2cents in helping me. i have completed my 1st built book case. see below. 
i was very please with results still bugged at the fussy festie guides. i did order the other one from earlier in the post which should be coming this month. 
i learned a lot and can eliminate a lot time on the next project. i think the biggest challenge was using new tools when time was tight. other then that relatively easy and will gladly build more. 

thanks again


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## Northwood (Jan 6, 2010)

Nice work, looks great.


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