# New Primer was really bad!



## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I used "SEALGRIP" by PPG, Pittsburgh Paints. When I came back the next day, after priming a seriously patched and skim coated wall, I picked off some fuzz from a new (Unwashed) roller sleeve. To my shock, the primer just peeled away from areas with mud patching. I have always used INSL-X products like Aqua Lock. (My personal fav) The local paint shop had none but swore this product was as good or better. RIGHT! I might as well have primed with regular latex. "Superior adhesion" at $47 a gallon was a huge waste of money, worse, I'm trying to think of a way to finish the job without the need to completely remove the primer. It needs more skim coating and filling. The primer should have made the flaws easy to see and it did. Then my plan was to just patch and spot prime what was missed in the first pass. The wall had to be practically rebuilt as it had huge waves and bumps. I thought I was half way done. Now it looks like I have doubled the work load. I am so aggravated I have been sputtering all morning. NEVER use an untried product if you care at all about the job! I generlly am product loyal because I hate surprises such as this. Aqua lock NEVER did crap like this!


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

It would be really odd for a primer to fail on drywall like that. You sure the mud was dry before it was primed? I would have the local rep come and check it out, the few times I have had issues (ben moore) I was always given product to make it right, once they paid my labor too.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

Yup! I have never experienced anything like this before, (23.75 years a pro). I am wondering if the paint was a miss fill and what is on the label is not what is in the can. I offered to send the peelings to Pittsburgh Paint for them to look at. In any case, INSL-X for me, ONLY and from now on. They have never failed me on special purpose paint. It is a dry wall mud fill, not dry wall. It seems to be adhering well to the old latex. Perhaps an 80 grit and power sander may take me back to primer as expected. Lord, I am loath to do this! I hate `fixing`bad works.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

*I think it may be only the in the back rolled areas*

I think back rolling on this primer is a problem but it also seems to fail to latch into the plaster work. Nope, I am confused and do not "get it".


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Plaster is always funny. I haven't used that primer so I can't speak on how it performs on GWB. 

Are you sure there wasn't high moisture there in those failed spots?


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## GPI (Jan 13, 2005)

Did you dust the surface prior to priming, failure looks like the area where the patch was as well as the surround which looks like the dusted area. Prime with oil, repatch, reprime and you should be good. 
If there were fibers left in the surface and you pulled, area also sounded uncured.


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

I'll let you know how it all turns out. I am NOT stripping the walls. I am taking it on faith that there 'must have been' too much moisture left in the plaster. (24 hours should be cured) It has been a very wet season here. 8 sunny dry hours since Oct.1. I have torn off all that I can and re-patched. I will leave it again for an other 24, today being dry and sunny. I will re-prime with the same product because I have it. 

I do indeed clean my surface prior to prime. A good broom followed up with tack cloth. Though a little dust should mix with the primer and just make the job untidy, not unsound.


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## artiospainting (Mar 16, 2011)

i'm staring for a moment at your picture. the wall looks like old plaster with sheetrock mud fill. plus you said mud fill. when you sanded did you wipe the dust off wall latex floats on dust some plaster is so slick paint don't want to stick bubbles up. ruff up. wipe dust off prime over if bubble leave dry longer paint will shrink back to surface and stick. remedy do over as fast as you can so you don't loose to much time. is money i used safeguard once it was little runny and thin. your last responds look like you have it in control.


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## CarrPainting (Jun 29, 2010)

According to my 1980's USG book, if paint fails to adhere to plaster, its cause the PH level is 'off' Though I have used the sanding block trick on old plaster to get primer to stick.


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## GPI (Jan 13, 2005)

From what ive read, it looks as if she was leveling out areas with mud, after sanding she primed, then started picking at fuzz, product lifted, from what the photo shows is the areas patched being dusted, does not mention fresh plaster ,painted plaster or otherwise. 
Lack of surface prep (Clean, Dry ,Dull) Is usually the culprit. Or in this case fuzz picking on uncured primer and dusty surface primed over. Let primer dry next time and take a pole sander to the wall prior to finish coats to eliminate the fibers left behind


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

GPI said:


> From what ive read, it looks as if she was leveling out areas with mud, after sanding she primed, then started picking at fuzz, product lifted, from what the photo shows is the areas patched being dusted, does not mention fresh plaster ,painted plaster or otherwise.
> Lack of surface prep (Clean, Dry ,Dull) Is usually the culprit. Or in this case fuzz picking on uncured primer and dusty surface primed over. Let primer dry next time and take a pole sander to the wall prior to finish coats to eliminate the fibers left behind


To be quite clear: Yes, I am leveling a very warped wall. I did the initial major fills with "durabond 90", sanded that well with a broad plate sander, skim coated the entire wall with "CGC" drywall mud, sanded again and filled some more. 24 hours later I broom off and wiped the walls down with tack cloth. I proceeded to coat the wall in the same manner I have been using since 1978. Yes I used an fresh sleeve and did not rinse it out leaving fuzz in the finish. (Not a concern as a rule because I will to skim the walls a second time as well as a bit more leveling. So a pock mark where I pull out the fibers was expected, but the walls had been primed the day before. It should not have torn away as it did. What I have ALWAYS used to date and will not vary it in the future, is either "Aqua Lock" or "Prime Lock", this was my first venture away from known products. What ever the cause, it is well covered now. This has never happened to me before and it will never happen to me again. I, personally am voting with the guys who say too much moisture or too wet. Whats looks dry and feels dry may, in fact, not be dry. I do thank everyone for their ideas. I think we have pretty well exhausted this thread, No?


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## JenniferTemple (Oct 30, 2011)

GPI said:


> From what ive read, it looks as if she was leveling out areas with mud, after sanding she primed, then started picking at fuzz, product lifted, from what the photo shows is the areas patched being dusted, does not mention fresh plaster ,painted plaster or otherwise.
> Lack of surface prep (Clean, Dry ,Dull) Is usually the culprit. Or in this case fuzz picking on uncured primer and dusty surface primed over. Let primer dry next time and take a pole sander to the wall prior to finish coats to eliminate the fibers left behind


Might I be so bold as to ask when you started to paint for a living. I was a trainee from 1977 - 1986 under a Hungarian Master painter. I went solo in 1986. I call myself a professional, you seem to think I am a novice or amateur. I also have the advantage of earlier art training that has served me well. I know painting better than I know my spouse.


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## SK Remodeling (Feb 8, 2009)

Just so you know last time I checked "an other" is one word as in "not just another painter".

I also trained under a hungarian master... when I worked on a commercial fishing boat. He taught me to properly bait the hooks. He was a hungarian master baiter!:laughing:


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## bpcpainting (Aug 1, 2011)

sk071077 said:


> Just so you know last time I checked "an other" is one word as in "not just another painter".
> 
> I also trained under a hungarian master... when I worked on a commercial fishing boat. He taught me to properly bait the hooks. He was a hungarian master baiter!:laughing:



AND Boom goes the dynamite!:laughing:


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## GPI (Jan 13, 2005)

JenniferTemple said:


> Might I be so bold as to ask when you started to paint for a living. I was a trainee from 1977 - 1986 under a Hungarian Master painter. I went solo in 1986. I call myself a professional, you seem to think I am a novice or amateur. I also have the advantage of earlier art training that has served me well. I know painting better than I know my spouse.


I dont understand why you have taken YOUR post personal? You asked a question, you get responses, because you have not had a rep examine or have your issues analized under chemical scrutiny, your assumptions have led you down a silly path of self rightiousness. In 25 years of painting and wallcoverings (me) you being older does not prove any point resolving the issue. Dont take posts personal, it serves no purpose.


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