# Slate against Hardwood floors



## Pearce Services (Nov 21, 2005)

I am installing some gauged slate next to existing red oak floors, when the prep is completed, I will be above the existing oak by about 1/4". I may install a small reducer to transition this better, but my question is as follows;

Would you butt against the existing floor with the rough factory edge, or lay out to have a clean cut against the existing floor. I am leaning towards planning a cut along that edge, it will lay out nicer, but I think It will give a more stable edge, I am concerned about the factory edge flaking. 

Kevin


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

butt it against a schluter strip, you don't want a slate edge out there exposed on it's own whether it's factory cut or not.


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## Jason Whipple (Dec 22, 2007)

You can easily bevel the edge of the slate too with some #80 sandpaper on a belt sander before you install.


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## woodmagman (Feb 17, 2007)

I vote for the metal edge or_ schluter_ strip. It does suck when the floors do come out at different heights. The edge helps with the transition.


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

A softer bevelled edge would be less of a heel-hooker and a tripper.


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## Pearce Services (Nov 21, 2005)

I have 18lf of edge to deal with, any guess on how long this will take to bevel?


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

About an hour maybe. I would do it using a grinder to relieve the sharp edge then a belt sander to soften and shape the edge.

Keep in mind I have a grinder with a diamond cup and a belt sander with silicone carbide belts. That could make a difference.


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## Mellison (Aug 3, 2008)

Mike Finley said:


> butt it against a schluter strip, you don't want a slate edge out there exposed on it's own whether it's factory cut or not.


Ditto.
the best way to go. They are also called Genesis strips.


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## Jerry T (Sep 25, 2003)

How thick is that guaged slate? I've done it a few times using a 1/4" slate over 1/4" CBU. I vote too for the Schluter metal with grout on one side and grout caulk on the wood side.


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## Pearce Services (Nov 21, 2005)

Nice looking work.....

It's 3/8" thick, but not as well gauged as I would like, The slate will be about 1/4" higher that the hardwoods, The hardwoods will be installed after I install slate, Which I prefer the other way around, but the hardwoods are not being done by me, and they still do not have a guy lined up for this work yet....(Any one in the Bridgewater Mass area interested in installing 600 sf, and refinishing another 1000 sf?).

I am going to Soften the edge, then install schluter. I think it will be the best solution......Thanks for all the input..............Kevin


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## dokuhaku (Sep 15, 2008)

*post pics please*



Pearce Services said:


> ...I am going to Soften the edge, then install schluter....


Post pictures, if possible, when you finish. I would enjoy seeing the conclusion to this situation.
:clap:


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## nwtile guy (Feb 13, 2008)

Saw this post late, but I'll throw my 2 cents in. If you are thinking of a transition strip, there is no need for schluter metal or caulk or anything like that. If there you are going to go without a transition strip, I agree with the guys above, schluter metal or round over the edges.


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## Mike Costello (Aug 1, 2004)

Nice job with the grout and caulk. 

Rap the wood guy on the head for ending with such a short piece


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## Jerry T (Sep 25, 2003)

Mike Costello said:


> Nice job with the grout and caulk.
> 
> Rap the wood guy on the head for ending with such a short piece


Not what you think Mike. The wood had been down for a few years and the lady wanted slate put in at the entryways...... very odd patterns she drew out. I had to cut out the existing wood then shaped the slate. Used Schluter's bendable metal there because everything curved.


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## Mike Costello (Aug 1, 2004)

Ahhh I see.

Well that just makes it that much more impressive to me.
Nice work.


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