# Installing hardwood in multiple rooms????



## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

I have installed hardwood 5 different times, but only in a single room at a time. One of those times were unfinished and I finished it.
I have a question on when you install hardwood throughout an entire floor plan. This is a straight forward application on 3/4" sub-floor, perpendicular to the floor joists with a 15 lb felt underneath on the first floor, with no transition pieces. The customer wants the pieces to run from one end to the other with out interrupting the flow wherever this might happen.
Now, this is just an inquiry because no decisions have been made on moving forward with this project. Here's my question. Where do you start your first pieces? I've noticed on some of these network shows like "This Old House", where they were filming a crew throw down HW, that they started in what seemed to be the middle of the room...???? Kind of confusing when I saw this..
Here's a drawing,(sorry, no design software) of the entire area that they want HW laid down... The red is where the HW will be stopping and the black strips separating the rooms are just walls.. Any help will be appreciated and if I missed on giving some info, just ask.. 
OH YEAH, The HW will be running left to right in this photo.


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## floorinstall (Sep 8, 2007)

start a a point halfway between the front and back wall of the large rectangular room running parallel to the front wall. Off of this line measure back to the extreme rear wall to see if you are still running parallel to the back wall. If not you can adjust the reference line to correct the run off. Start at the line and use a spline or slip-tongue to move in both directions with the tongue exposed on both runs.


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## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

floorinstall said:


> start a a point halfway between the front and back wall of the large rectangular room running parallel to the front wall. Off of this line measure back to the extreme rear wall to see if you are still running parallel to the back wall. If not you can adjust the reference line to correct the run off. Start at the line and use a spline or slip-tongue to move in both directions with the tongue exposed on both runs.


I beleieve I understand what you are stating, but to be clear, I'm going to use the drawing again...
1.The yellow line running through would be the reference point that I'm going to start the hardwoord in both directions towards the front of the house and to the rear of the house... Right??
2. The light blue lines would be of equal distance.. Of course...
3. The light green ref line to the rear of the house is where I lost you...
4. In order to get the hardwood going in both directions... What exactly am I doing to the 2 pieces where the groove sides meet??? I'm assuming I'm just going to be filling in the groove with a "filler" strip (spline or slip-tongue) in the 2 grooves... Right?


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## Floordude (Aug 30, 2007)

You start out in the middle so to speak for a couple of reasons. Popping that yellow linw and working off it, keep you square to the entire installation, and not just a wall that may not be exacly straight.

When you fasten down wood, the placement and the angle of the fastener, makes the wood move toward the tongue side, more so if it swells. So your cutting the movement of the entire floor in half or what ever percentage you start at.

Yes, spline it and take off the other direction, to the top of your diagram.
Besure to undercut all the cased openings, doorjambs, and any fixed objects, not getting trim molding.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I don't see any windows or other openings. Usually, with straight flooring, you 'run with the light'.

What type of flooring are you putting down? Light colored and fine grained can pretty much be put down in any fashion. Highly figured woods need more consideration as they can make a room appear longer or wider depending on how they are laid.


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## AustinDB (Sep 11, 2006)

are you running the floor perpindicular to the floor joist? where the two runs of flooring meet, you could meet the two runs with a herringbone overlap or use a threshold in the doorway of the top right room and change direction.


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## Floordude (Aug 30, 2007)

Teetorbilt said:


> I don't see any windows or other openings. Usually, with straight flooring, you 'run with the light'.
> 
> What type of flooring are you putting down? Light colored and fine grained can pretty much be put down in any fashion. Highly figured woods need more consideration as they can make a room appear longer or wider depending on how they are laid.



Teetor, I believe in the opening post, it is...

"I have a question on when you install hardwood throughout an entire floor plan. This is a straight forward application on 3/4" sub-floor, perpendicular to the floor joists with a 15 lb felt underneath on the first floor, with no transition pieces.


It is highly recommended you go the opposite direction of the joists, unless you have at least 1-1/8" subfloor or bracing and blocking, or if the joist ar 12" or less centers.


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