# Coping for parapet wall



## Moneypit (Dec 1, 2009)

I have to do a repair job on a 2' parapet wall. Part of the job is to replace 50 feet of the concrete coping. The coping dimentions are 4" tall, 14" wide, and 36" long. I have only found one place that has these (they have the mold and will pour them). The price is $33.70 per foot. They will be reinforced. That comes to $1685.00 just for the coping material.

This is the first time I am buying anything like this, and I am shocked at the price. Is this normal or are they charging way too much. I can't seem to find anyone else that has something like this to compare too. 

If anyone knows somewhere on long island NY to find this coping or if you have any suggestions as to what the price should be, please let me know.

Thank you.


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## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

Thats a good price, similar to what i would charge to make them, GMOD


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Make em yourself and find out how easy it is lol!


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## NJ Brickie (Jan 31, 2009)

Does not seem like a bad price to me either.


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## Moneypit (Dec 1, 2009)

Thank you all for such quick responses. I can now put my proposal together tonight. 
6string: Thats not a bad idea. If I needed more of theses, I would definitely look into that.

Thanks again.


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Moneypit said:


> Thank you all for such quick responses. I can now put my proposal together tonight.
> 6string: Thats not a bad idea. If I needed more of theses, I would definitely look into that.
> 
> Thanks again.


What im saying is you can easily make the forms and cheap. Theyre basically disposable, and not something you need to keep around to clutter up the shop.


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## DJ9222 (Apr 28, 2009)

I priced coping similar to what you are lookng for here on LI and the price was about the same as yours ,so it seems that must be the going rate for precast coping.. Good luck..:thumbup:


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## Moneypit (Dec 1, 2009)

So if I were to make them myself, what type of reinforcing is necessary? Maybe just 2 #5 bars running horizontal?


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## Moneypit (Dec 1, 2009)

Another question: At one point in the wall, the existing coping comes to a point like this __/\__ where each side of the triangle is about 9 feet long and aproximatly on a 45 degree angle. At the peak, the coping has shifted up about an inch or so above the wall as if the 2 sides expanded and pushed the peak up. What would cause this? Just expantion? How would I avoid this in the new installation? Also, I have been told that anchoring the coping when using through flashing is not required. Is this true? (the same guy also told me that through flashing is not required).
Thanks again.


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## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

Moneypit said:


> Another question: At one point in the wall, the existing coping comes to a point like this __/\__ where each side of the triangle is about 9 feet long and aproximatly on a 45 degree angle. At the peak, the coping has shifted up about an inch or so above the wall as if the 2 sides expanded and pushed the peak up. What would cause this? Just expantion? How would I avoid this in the new installation? Also, I have been told that anchoring the coping when using through flashing is not required. Is this true? (the same guy also told me that through flashing is not required).
> Thanks again.


Coping should not do that, cant say what caused it, something underneath, concrete will not move causing that, only the sub structure could cause what you describe. Parapit should be flashed up and over, coping thinset on top. GMOD


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## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

I have seen copings moved up a bit by a sulphate attack in the mortar joints, although the attack usually happens lower down where it's a bit wetter.


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## jvcstone (Apr 4, 2005)

Have seen that sort of thing happen when steel washers were used as shims. As the steel rusts, it expands and can cause a vertical heave like that.

JVC


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## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

jvcstone said:


> Have seen that sort of thing happen when steel washers were used as shims. As the steel rusts, it expands and can cause a vertical heave like that.
> 
> JVC


That's a good point. Here's what the old, thicker iron wall ties can do to a cavity wall when they rust.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

I would use 2" bluestone. Probably be cheaper.:laughing:


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