# Pointing tight mortar joints



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Tscarborough said:


> Actually, that covers the bed joints, for the head joints, use the same consistency but use a small margin trowel and cut the head joints in at a 45 degree to the left then again to the right and tool out with the tuckpointer.


What i typically do for heads is to put a ball of mud in my hand and using the slicker pry a piece between my squeezed thumb and fore finger. I'll also press it onto a trowel and the water tension will hold it on so I can turn it sideways and use the slicker to slide the mud into the joint. I use the trowel technique more for stone pointing and deep pointing tho since you can slide a much larger amount at a time. It takes some practice and even still I occasionally lose an entire trowel of mud by bumping it. the hand technique is very fast but make sure to wear a rubber glove cause the mortar (particularly lime mortar) will wear a hole in your hand, particularly in the spot where the tip of the slicker scrapes against your hand.

Good luck

Oh and Italian, no offence taken. If people can't disagree and hopefully learn from each others different learning experiences what is the point in these forums.


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

Worth a mention too, IMO..... if the building is historic with soft brick, avoid a strong mix. Chances are if it is pre/mid 1800's you probably should use a lime mortar or risk destroying the brick.


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

I'm pointing some blockwork on the interior of a basement.

I'm knocking out the head joints with a chisel, then smashing up the chunks and getting them out. Same with the bed joints. I'm pushing them all into the cores, except where the webs are. Where the webs are, I just go down an inch or so.

As for filling, I could see using a hock for a big job. I just use my trowel in left hand pointing towards the right, and shovel off the mortar into the head joints with my tuckpointing trowel. On the head joints, I hold my trowel the same way and my tuckpointing trowel vertical, pointing down into my trowel and shovel off the mortar into the joint. I'm trying to fill the whole head joint cavity between the ears. So after a while of shoveling the mortar off, I'll take my time and put it in one tp trowelful at a time. Takes a long time, but I'm inside and why work myself out of a job?

I meant to spray down with water first, but I forgot. I'll get a spray bottle and do that next time, or I can go to the garden sprayer if that is easier.

I gather that there is a chisel called a plugging chisel for tuckpointing work. My slim chisel is working fine for the block, but I would look for a special chisel if I were doing much brickwork.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Analyze the existing mortar and match strength as close as possible - more than likely lime mortar and a grout bag is out of the question for this size...unless you plan on floating it/smooth face brick. 

What's the anticipated joint finish?, e.g flush, weather struck, recessed.

No matter what size joint...the hawk and slicker is tried and true...maybe even hit it with a rat tail if they want it slightly recessed.


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

superseal said:


> Analyze the existing mortar and match strength as close as possible - more than likely lime mortar and a grout bag is out of the question for this size...unless you plan on floating it/smooth face brick.
> 
> What's the anticipated joint finish?, e.g flush, weather struck, recessed.
> 
> No matter what size joint...the hawk and slicker is tried and true...maybe even hit it with a rat tail if they want it slightly recessed.


Is that you SS? What is that, repointing or a gun show?:laughing::jester:


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

superseal said:


> Analyze the existing mortar and match strength as close as possible - more than likely lime mortar and a grout bag is out of the question for this size...unless you plan on floating it/smooth face brick.
> 
> What's the anticipated joint finish?, e.g flush, weather struck, recessed.
> 
> No matter what size joint...the hawk and slicker is tried and true...maybe even hit it with a rat tail if they want it slightly recessed.



Ooohhh what's a rat tail? Besdides that thing my sister had running down her back in the '80's

In France a slicker is called "un langue du chat" a cats tongue, doesn't make much sense to me but whatever.


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## fjn (Aug 17, 2011)

*pointing*

If my memory serves me,i believe Gerard Lynch has som e info. on his site on pointing gauged work.If not i believe one of his books has a chapter on that subject. WWW.BRICKMASTER.CO.UK.


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## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

dom-mas said:


> Ooohhh what's a rat tail?


http://www.bontool.com/product1.asp?p=HWBULLHORN

Same diff.,
D.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Funny how there's different names for all our gear from place to place...

D nailed it... bullhorn, rat tail, take your pick...

We call this one The Westbrook Park slicker or waffle for short :laughing:

Don't drop a rat tail on your co-workers head that's for sure :wacko:


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## MAULEMALL (May 16, 2010)

superseal said:


> Funny how there's different names for all our gear from place to place...
> 
> D nailed it... bullhorn, rat tail, take your pick...
> 
> ...


Nice!!!
What do you use for your grapevine??








I see em...


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## JD3lta (Nov 22, 2009)

SS- That is a Mighty Collection. Other guys call things as they will. I always ran with calling a jointer a jointer. And, a slicker (which is a man's best friend in stone work), one of these:









The width of these go from tiny on up!

I mention I need a slicker and I'm looking up a nose.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Mostly W.Rose gear here...there right around the corner from me and I have buckets of this stuff. 

That's just what I carry in my wallet :whistling

Check out my latest edition... A good friend comp'd me these not too long again and haven't had a chance to break them in yet,
sitting around rusting  I am using the bucket trowel which I modified (not shown) and a 10" narrow London which I use mostly.

Pretty good friend he is :thumbup:

Let's see...9/10/14" narrow London's; 7" Philly pattern and 9.5 wide London.

I could beat the crap out of ya with the 14" I telling ya :laughing:


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## JD3lta (Nov 22, 2009)

I got what I thought no one wanted:


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

holy smoke SS, your trowels look as good as your boots!! Rose does make a great trowel...one of mine is 10 yrs old this spring.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

I have a 13" Rose leather that has been on my shelf for 10 years...


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

stonecutter said:


> holy smoke SS, your trowels look as good as your boots!! Rose does make a great trowel...one of mine is 10 yrs old this spring.


Ill bet you love this one " I have a trowel older then you!" :whistling


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

JBM said:


> Ill bet you love this one " I have a trowel older then you!" :whistling


Yeah but every year I'm catching up..


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

Tscarborough said:


> I have a 13" Rose leather that has been on my shelf for 10 years...


nobody wants it?


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

stonecutter said:


> nobody wants it?


stone...you need popeye forearms to work that puppy :laughing:

Not too many people want to lug that around :no:


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## stonecutter (May 13, 2010)

superseal said:


> stone...you need popeye forearms to work that puppy :laughing:
> 
> Not too many people want to lug that around :no:


I would just use my trowel as a template and then grind that badboy down to size:thumbsup:...if I got it for cheap that is.


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