# Bathroom Ceiling Tile



## steverenna (Oct 21, 2014)

This is my first time dealing with large format (12x24) porclean tiles and am planning to install them over a bath/shower. I stopped at the last wall row and ready to begin the ceiling which is roghly 30 x 59 and not too many tiles. I have used the circle method on the tiles in the past with good results but am a bit concerned they may fall due to their size. I used the clip and wedge to install the wall tiles and was wondering if anyone ever used them on the celing. I was thinking of physically attaching the clips directly (by screws) to the celing joists through the hardybacker and basically using the wedge as temporay support of the tiles. I can grab enough joists that the entire ceiling would be secured by wedges while the mortar sets. Any thoughts?


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

It should work.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

I like to skimcoat and level out ceiling the day before. Then I trowel the back of tile with a slightly wetter thinset. Push the tile in to collapse the ridges and squish the air out. Hold for a few seconds while the dried thinset starts to suck the water out of the fresh thinset which then holds the tile inplace.

I like either Versabond or Porcelain thinset by Customs to set. And Customs Marble thinset for skimcoat because it's a little rougher (it's a medium bed thinset.)


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## Floormasta78 (Apr 6, 2011)

USE 4XLT AND FORGET ABOUT IT ! 

AND PERSONALLY USE MLT !


#MLT #4XLT #CERTIFIEDFLOOORINGS #LATICRETE #ORLANDOCAR:clap::clap::clap:


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

I'll give that a try next ceiling I do.


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## TileWizard (Jan 14, 2011)

I like Tec 3n1 for ceilings. I've done 12x24 and 18s plenty of times. I like to notch trowel the ceiling and back butter the tile for a nice suction


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Mapei LFT, no need to secure the tile with clips, but if it makes you feel better. I agree with Ozlo, skim the ceiling (no need to let it dry), trowel the tile and it won't release.

My concern with screwing the clips to the ceiling is that your ceiling would need to be 100% flat. The clips need to contact the back of both tiles in order to be effective. If the clip is pulled into a valley your leveling system will be less effective.


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## Evan1968 (Dec 5, 2010)

And stop using the circle (dod) method to set tile. :no:


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

Evan1968 said:


> And stop using the circle (dod) method to set tile. :no:


Yipes!!! Reminds me of when a 12x24 dropped off the ceiling, whizzed past my head and punctured a hole in my aluminum plank, right infront of my (then)10 year old son. A lesson for both of us.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

Just a quick thot if you feel the need to press and hold your ceiling tile use a 3rd hand, the laser pole holder with your cross laser or the HF rods to give it a lil push.


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## abelizer (Oct 26, 2014)

Current job, also first time using 12x24
porcelain on ceiling. I skimmed the ceiling and without
drying, combed the tile lengthwise and
ran my finger along both short ends to
make the notches like "cells" for suction. 
first one, I tried to pull down? nope. would
need a screwdriver to pry it off!
no leveling system, very minimal lippage. 
that said, I am interested in trying a leveling
system on my next job. 
not sure why my photo's sometimes rotate. 
just opening and re-saving in photoshop
fixes it but I'm on my phone.... sorry!


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I don't know if I'm interpreting correctly, but it sounds like you are saying your trapping the air from escaping which prevents coverage, suction occurs when air is evacuated. 
Many years ago Joe Tarver, then Pres. Of NTCA discovered straight rows of notches allows air to escape, get better coverage, it is one of many ways how I judge how good an installer/setter is if they follow the best practices of installing or if they're going thru the motions.


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## abelizer (Oct 26, 2014)

MIKE ANTONETTI said:


> I don't know if I'm interpreting correctly, but it sounds like you are saying your trapping the air from escaping which prevents coverage, suction occurs when air is evacuated.
> Many years ago Joe Tarver, then Pres. Of NTCA discovered straight rows of notches allows air to escape, get better coverage, it is one of many ways how I judge how good an installer/setter is if they follow the best practices of installing or if they're going thru the motions.


Good call, don't need to create "cells", just a good straight comb will suffice... I won't hesitate to use large tiles on a ceiling again, it went well
and, putting a piece of plywood on the tub out of fear of one dropping turned out to be a great way to do the rest of the job, even the floor!
somewhere to rest cut tiles, tools etc.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

Absolutely, I have a piece specifically for that purpose, even a face piece that I can unscrew(demo tile as well)
I use the little felt pads for chairs around the outer edges to protect the porcelain tub,though they may slide, maybe some other material may grip better.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

MIKE ANTONETTI said:


> Absolutely, I have a piece specifically for that purpose, even a face piece that I can unscrew(demo tile as well)
> I use the little felt pads for chairs around the outer edges to protect the porcelain tub,though they may slide, maybe some other material may grip better.


I used to have a piece of birch with a piece of rubber flooring glued to the back side of it for that purpose. The rubber grips the tub and keeps it from scratching. Scraps of rubber floor are great for all kinds of stuff.


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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

I don't want to admit how many tubs I had to replace or repair before I got serious about protecting the tub correctly. I'm loving the tips here


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I screwed a 2x2 on top of the front edge where I could screw in plywood along the face of the tub if it needs protecting. Make sure they're recessed, metal against porcelain does not go well, light metal rubbing against tile may be removed with cooktop cleaner, sometimes those grout floats with aluminum backer hits tile leaving marks.
A tile set with no ridges from the trowel after set is best bond possible, when the ridges are collapsed and the contact of thinset reaches the 100% mark. On the flip side demo is a nightmare and I don't recommend setting tile properly due to my removal service.


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

I've never heard of this "circle method". What the hell is it?


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## Anti-wingnut (Mar 12, 2009)

EthanB said:


> I've never heard of this "circle method". What the hell is it?


Something jerks do?


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## EthanB (Sep 28, 2011)

Anti-wingnut said:


> Something jerks do?


I'm pretty sure where you're going with this. I believe that kind of circle discussion is restricted to P&R.:whistling


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