# TMolding installation



## Jspence (Mar 10, 2013)

Who here uses hot glue sticks to hold down tmolds till there construction adhesive dries?! What kinda glue do you use on your tmolds? Better yet do you use the track system?


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

Me! I have a 25 pound box of coolstix. Pam is getting that market now. A lot of guys use the epoxy. Just snap the molding into the trak and put them both down on your little epoxy piles. A cheap wet sponge should be used to prepare the surface.


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## barry1219 (Oct 8, 2011)

I do not use glue at all!!..neither should you..the track system is provided because it is what works..
I have installed at over 20k SF of flooring and probably a couple hundred LF of T-Mold..use the track system..

I usually install it into concrete down here with a hammer drill and proper bit size..vacuum as you go and carefully install the inserts about every 9 inches..on a typical doorway of about 32-36" I install the outermost ends with the inserts and infill 2 between there..be careful not to overtighten them down as they squeeze the track together and cause the molding not to snap into place correctly.

Don't think because it has a hole in the track every 4" you need to put that many in. T-Mold is usually in a high traffic spot..and glue will not take the beating of normal traffic for very long.

Message me for more info or specific questions..good luck.


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## Hank B. (May 6, 2013)

I use the tracks too. I also have to screw them down to the slab. It can be a chore, but it's never as bad as coming out to fix one that's been glued. Another bonus to tracks, if a fella is SUPER CAREFUL, and very patient, he could take out the molding and reuse it if a repair needed to be made that required removing a transition ( unless it's a metal track). If you worked over wood sub floors alla time I don't even know why one would consider not using the track. only time I glue them is when there is no track.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Using PL Loctite Preminium Urethane glue, (fast set lately) over slab. Over ply, if there is a track I use it. But most of the mouldings I buy, do not come with a track. The mouldings can be the bid breaker, some are $28 per 6 1/2! I buy 8' for $13 but no track. Use plenty of adhesive, clean with Bostik wipes.. I have had demo some I did due the flood, they are not coming out easy.:no:


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

_I do not use glue at all!!..neither should you..the track system is provided because it is what works._

Hey, Erasmus. You can glue the track down.


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## Doctor Handyman (Mar 13, 2012)

Just glued some transitions today. You guys make me feel like a hack. I am always installing over slab and find pre drilling a pita. 

As mentioned prior, the moldings are pricey and I often custom make my own, therefore no metal snap track to utilize.

I use locktite fast grab or liquid nails. 

I have seen the metal tracks (some are plastic) fail when the tenon under the t-mold separates from the top part of the "T". Always wonder what the HO did to rip the top off.


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## Jspence (Mar 10, 2013)

Doctor Handyman said:


> Just glued some transitions today. You guys make me feel like a hack. I am always installing over slab and find pre drilling a pita.
> 
> As mentioned prior, the moldings are pricey and I often custom make my own, therefore no metal snap track to utilize.
> 
> ...


That's exactly why I do not use the track system anymore the call back rate of people kicking the top off the tmold in the track most laminate moldings are cheap and can seperate easily, I do at least 15 tmolds a week I liquid nail then use my hot glue gun in little dots on both sides of molding then place and add pressure for 5 to 10 seconds let go and the hot glue will hold tmold in place just for the time needed for the construction adhesive to dry this allows me to get paid or the job and no need to weigh down moldings untill they dry


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## adamsb (Aug 25, 2005)

Explain this hot glue thing. That's new to me but interesting. Is it a certain kind of quick dry stuff or just regular ol hot glue for arts and crafts?


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## Jspence (Mar 10, 2013)

I don't know if anyone else uses this method but every installer I have ever shown this trick to eventually went with it for all there installs, I am in and out of many homes a week usually installing glue down engineered hardwoods, and the worst thing about doing tmolds to me was having to put tape or a heavy object on the transition to dry and sit correctly, this can be tedious annoying( leaving a heavy object in the main walking area for two to three days it can also be an obstical for some homeowners/customers especially the elderly, this is what I do first check your tmold to make sure it fits correctly and you like the placement of it, then I'll usually mark the outside of the tmold so I know exactly where to put it back, I then add construction adhesive and apply skittle sized drops of hot glue in both sides of the molding about 6 inches apart then install tmold lining up with your previous marks, this is important because it's gonna be impossible to adjust tmold after hot glue has set up which is usually 5-10 second, hold pressure on tmold and then release, hot glue will hold tmold down untill glue has time to set


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

Jspence said:


> I don't know if anyone else uses this method but every installer I have ever shown this trick to eventually went with it for all there installs, I am in and out of many homes a week usually installing glue down engineered hardwoods, and the worst thing about doing tmolds to me was having to put tape or a heavy object on the transition to dry and sit correctly, this can be tedious annoying( leaving a heavy object in the main walking area for two to three days it can also be an obstical for some homeowners/customers especially the elderly, this is what I do first check your tmold to make sure it fits correctly and you like the placement of it, then I'll usually mark the outside of the tmold so I know exactly where to put it back, I then add construction adhesive and apply skittle sized drops of hot glue in both sides of the molding about 6 inches apart then install tmold lining up with your previous marks, this is important because it's gonna be impossible to adjust tmold after hot glue has set up which is usually 5-10 second, hold pressure on tmold and then release, hot glue will hold tmold down untill glue has time to set


Why don't you buy FAST GRAB PL? A few dollars more and no more hot glue.(your way is still good if you have time and patience)









Liquid nails dries out and get hard. PL will stay rubbery, I would not touch LN.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Personally, I think T molds look like chit & avoid them 99% of the time. Shop made transitions here that ramp from new floor, to nothing. Carpet rolls to new floor. Tile color match caulks to head board. Transitions are put down with a pinner & PL adhesive.


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## astor (Dec 19, 2008)

pinwheel said:


> Personally, I think T molds look like chit & avoid them 99% of the time. Shop made transitions here that ramp from new floor, to nothing. Carpet rolls to new floor. Tile color match caulks to head board. Transitions are put down with a pinner & PL adhesive.


For laminate flooring there is no other solution other than T mold or square end; can't do it tight, but I avoid using for solid or engineering flooring.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

astor said:


> For laminate flooring there is no other solution other than T mold or square end; can't do it tight, but I avoid using for solid or engineering flooring.



I can see that on laminate. Thankfully, I don't do much laminate.:whistling


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

Not only do I use sticks for trim. I also use them to secure my first row. Greasy fast. I used to have an irrational aversion to glue sticks, but I've gotten over it.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I'm trying to convert some of the time to hotmelt glue sticks , going against ceramic tile when they're not flat or when the molding is not flat the hotmelt didn't hold last time. I usually drill 1/16" thru the molding, switch it to hammer to put a mark in slab, then drill 1/4" x 21/2" deep and dowel material, then 6 finish nail through and color match putty on top. Yes, very time consuming, thinking about getting PAM sticks, just not sure if has enough strength to hold down from unevenness like a nail holding down all the low spots.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

Never had much luck with PAM or the Kool Glide glue sticks. Even tried Boa tape. Went back to nailing.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

rusty baker said:


> Never had much luck with PAM or the Kool Glide glue sticks. Even tried Boa tape. Went back to nailing.


Well squash my optimism, it's a rarity for me anyway. Thanks for the warning, I'll use it sparingly (when it lays flat)


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

Luck has nothing to do with it. It won't work on a dirty surface, but if it's clean, the PAM is the bomb. Hell, I've put down pin metal with it in a pinch.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I saw Pam demo at surfaces, it may be a new formula glue, they were demonstrating a bunch of uses, tackstrip, z-bar they passed around seeing how well it held, so eventually I worked it free from the wood it was attached to, separating very little at a time but still held quite well.
And Rusty, just read some of your posts on thefloorpro, and I saw your posts also chuck. 
Eliminating a nail hole when the rest is glued down is what I'm trying to avoid, also the putty filler is sticky which means dirt will be attracted to it, and time is the ultimate reason, I've got a 350$ glue gun I bought way back and still need to get my $ worth.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

MIKE ANTONETTI said:


> I saw Pam demo at surfaces, it may be a new formula glue, they were demonstrating a bunch of uses, tackstrip, z-bar they passed around seeing how well it held, so eventually I worked it free from the wood it was attached to, separating very little at a time but still held quite well.
> And Rusty, just read some of your posts on thefloorpro, and I saw your posts also chuck.
> Eliminating a nail hole when the rest is glued down is what I'm trying to avoid, also the putty filler is sticky which means dirt will be attracted to it, and time is the ultimate reason, I've got a 350$ glue gun I bought way back and still need to get my $ worth.


I am no longer on the floor pro. Jim has a problem with difference of opinion.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

It's amazing what a difference of opinion does, that gives me an idea with the kid(24) still living at home.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

_ Jim has a problem with difference of opinion. _

It goes much deeper than that. That dude is effed up. What's hilarious is that he's ignorant as hell about flooring.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

ccoffer said:


> Jim has a problem with difference of opinion.
> 
> It goes much deeper than that. That dude is effed up. What's hilarious is that he's ignorant as hell about flooring.


Let it roll off, accept the good advice, toss out the bad, personal attacks are not accepted on his site, all the name calling seams to be reflected back to yourself when you remain opinionated and call everyone names, like on Durock over concrete thread, I tried to read all of it but I phone locked up before I could reply, at least your not a yes man chuck, I would want someone to argue points to arrive at a logical conclusion.


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## ccoffer (Jan 30, 2005)

I simply have no stomach for dishonesty. It's subhuman. And it's rampant. I'm saddened to see otherwise decent people rush to dishonesty as a means of protecting their fragile egos. It's flooring for godsake. BFD.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

Jim is spending a lot of time on the DIY chatroom these days.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

rusty baker said:


> Jim is spending a lot of time on the DIY chatroom these days.


Is this a chat room? I got into all this stuff when I got my smartphone with digital keyboard. I'm learning tons more from everyday experienced compadres, gotta get my 70$ month cell phone worth.
I drill 1/8" bit then hammer a case hardened nail snug to the track with a nail set.


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## barry1219 (Oct 8, 2011)

I mostly only do laminate and I have been the guy who has to repair an otherwise decent install that failed because t-molds were glued. I am sure that proper installation of some glue down will work and I am intrigued to try the hot glue trick. I just feel confident with the track system and I know if I am called back to repair one somebody dragged something across it or it saw some unusual traffic and I am getting paid to fix it.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

It's also the integrity of those thin molding out of pressed board, not very durable.


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## Ta2ude (Jan 22, 2013)

rusty baker said:


> I am no longer on the floor pro. Jim has a problem with difference of opinion.


No kidding.


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

Doing floating LVP, with matching transitions. Cleaned real well and put double stick with fiberglass scrim and put track on and snapped in. Worked well


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## renov8r (Feb 16, 2013)

I always buy the t-mold with the click track system. I usually glue the track down and the t-mold just snaps in it. Most of the times when I am having to glue it I am installing it over concrete. When I am going over a wood subfloor I will glue and screw it down. I've never had an issue yet.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

adams said:


> Explain this hot glue thing. That's new to me but interesting. Is it a certain kind of quick dry stuff or just regular ol hot glue for arts and crafts?


http://pamfast.com/index.php/news/unique_pamtite_hot_melt_adhesive_from_pam_fastening/

If you Don't have this tool in your bag of tricks -well too bad for you. It can glue Tack strips to concrete be set in a minute and can handle power stretch load in 5 Min.
Main thing i use mine for is adding toe kick and tile base lets me do it the day after I set and right before I Grout. also works well for attachin miter returns on that cheap MDF 1/4 round.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

charimon said:


> http://pamfast.com/index.php/news/unique_pamtite_hot_melt_adhesive_from_pam_fastening/
> 
> If you Don't have this tool in your bag of tricks -well too bad for you. It can glue Tack strips to concrete be set in a minute and can handle power stretch load in 5 Min.
> Main thing i use mine for is adding toe kick and tile base lets me do it the day after I set and right before I Grout. also works well for attachin miter returns on that cheap MDF 1/4 round.


What's the work/set time and what do you pay for a box of sticks?


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

PrecisionFloors said:


> What's the work/set time and what do you pay for a box of sticks?


I think they've changed formulas, it was setting too fast to set a 12' piece of aluminum, they might have varying types
This isn't going to answer your question but wanted to say something prior to your answer from someone else.
They say its for tackstrip too, when has anyone seen no drywall mud or paint along walls?, and I think they say nearly one full glue stick per piece of tackstrip, not happening for me!
For other purposes fine, I've used some behind a tile for instant placement, works great. For returns on 1/4 round I use silicone 100% caulk tube.
I would like some #'s on how much better strength holding power wise than regular glue sticks.


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## adamsb (Aug 25, 2005)

With laminates, I always buy solid un-finished t- molds. Stain them to match the laminate and glue them down. They last and look so much better!


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

I pick up the gluefor $12 a pound. It's pricy but if you need something held right now it is worth it. Strangest thing I have used it for was, I set a 30sf backsplash of 6x6 on the diagional 4 splots a tile. This way I could grout immeadiatly and you don't have to worry about those little orphan triangles around outlets slipping. It saves me a second trip and cost less than $20 worth of glue.

Another thing thing I use it for is to hold the silicone bonded soap dishes in place til they cure. No tape, no slipping, no fuss.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

adams said:


> With laminates, I always buy solid un-finished t- molds. Stain them to match the laminate and glue them down. They last and look so much better!


That's exactly what I did when I lived in VA, Sam. I used to buy 100' bundles of shoe, quarter round, T, reducer, and baby threshold. I could get red or white oak and maple. Got very good at mixing stains and finishes to match pre-finished and laminates. Finding unfinished supplies up there was no problem but down here it's next to impossible. There is very little market here for solid wood and even less for sand and finish, so none of the supply houses stock moldings. They have had the same 8 or 10 jugs of Bona on the shelf for a few years though :laughing:


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

charimon said:


> I pick up the gluefor $12 a pound. It's pricy but if you need something held right now it is worth it. Strangest thing I have used it for was, I set a 30sf backsplash of 6x6 on the diagional 4 splots a tile. This way I could grout immeadiatly and you don't have to worry about those little orphan triangles around outlets slipping. It saves me a second trip and cost less than $20 worth of glue.
> 
> Another thing thing I use it for is to hold the silicone bonded soap dishes in place til they cure. No tape, no slipping, no fuss.


Will a regular heavy duty gun melt it or do you have to have the expensive Pam gun? I already have a Crain gun - ordered some of the sticks on Amazon, now I'm wondering if my gun will work


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## MIKE ANTONETTI (Jul 17, 2012)

I'm pretty sure it will work, size is probably same thickness, I have hb fuller gun with adjustable thermostat, that pam gun is designed for volume flow


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