# Stone veneer on exterior wood framed walls



## stonecutter

artisanstone said:


> the reason the vapor barrier (or lack of) part of the equation is important, is that almost no one understands it/ does it right. The reason you want a #15 felt slip sheet over your tyvek is that mortar will bond to tyvek and basically render it useless. Mortar soaks up water, transfers it right through the bonded tyvek, and presto, you have rot.


yup!


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## TheItalian204

JBM said:


> People assume tyvek is a water proof barrier? Jesus....


who assumes that?


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## Panzer5

The main thing I'm trying to understand is what "right" looks like, since ultimately I'm going to be responsible for what can go wrong with the completed project.

Here's a graphic look at what I'm planning (see pics). Talked with a local mason & he thinks it will work. (would appreciate your input as well). I'm planning to hire him to lay the brick foundation walls and erect the Firerock (which he uses regularly). 

I'm still up in the air over whether to do the veneer myself or hire him to do it. Either way, I need to understand the right way to build the wall.

So what I'll probably do is frame around the Firerock FP & chimney (see pics), sheathe it with ply & use the Sure Cavity system (see detail) for water management & rock wool insulation.


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## artisanstone

If you want it right, and aren't worried so much about the cost, just have your bricklayer lay up the shell in 6" block. By the time you get the wood frame (two different contractors), cavity material, flashing at roof intersection, and top cap/flashing, it will probably be near the same price anyway. With a block chimney, you'll never have to worry about it rotting away inside.

Sidenote: I am biased as there's nothing I dislike more than a wooden chimney.


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## JBM

If there is a proper chimney jog or footing just have the mason build a block chimney and then stick the rocks on it. If there is no footing you may run into troubles even with a wood frame. All that mass is going to add up in weight and doubling the floor joists im not sure is the solution either.


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## Panzer5

artisanstone said:


> If you want it right, and aren't worried so much about the cost, just have your bricklayer lay up the shell in 6" block. By the time you get the wood frame (two different contractors), cavity material, flashing at roof intersection, and top cap/flashing, it will probably be near the same price anyway. With a block chimney, you'll never have to worry about it rotting away inside.
> 
> Sidenote: I am biased as there's nothing I dislike more than a wooden chimney.


I'll look into it. Thing I'm worried about that is supporting the central ridge beam - I know I can level that in the field with wood & support it - but how big of a pain will it be using block on one end?


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## jomama

Panzer5 said:


> I'll look into it. Thing I'm worried about that is supporting the central ridge beam - I know I can level that in the field with wood & support it - but how big of a pain will it be using block on one end?


It's not really much different than a beam pocket in a basement, other than the block wall will likely be narrower in your case. What you can't do is bare the ridge beam on or within 1" or 2" (depending on your code) of the "Firerock" chimney.


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## jomama

TheItalian204 said:


> who assumes that?


Apparently, the "mason" putting the "lick & stick' up on a house down the road from me. What you can't see in the pic is that there is vinyl siding installed above it now. Thank God vinyl never leaks! :whistling











There's another fundamental problem with installing most any masonry over only Tyvek. Our code here in WI actually changed about 2 years ago in reaction to it. Not sure about other areas, but I'm sure if it hasn't been addressed yet, it will in the near future.

Here's the scenario: 

Brick wall/cultured stone wall/masonry wall/etc..... get's damp and saturated from a down pour of rain. Sun comes around & bakes on wall. Moisture in masonry turns to vapor & get's drawn to the inner, cooler side of wall, where it meet a true vapor barrier. Once vapor cools, it turns back into water droplets. So, now the WRB that is only a water barrier, and not a vapor barrier, has water trapped inside of it. Where will it go if it can't dry to either the inside or outside?


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