# need help, with spraying trim



## vwnuck (Jul 8, 2010)

what do you use to thin the advanced? its water clean up so i assume water, but with it being an alkyd i am not sure.. and can you use a latex primer underneath?


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## Scribbles (Mar 10, 2009)

i am working with Sherwin William trying to transition to waterbased, but the finish has ben a problem. Right now i am useing low voc cab laquer


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## vwnuck (Jul 8, 2010)

how is the cab lacq working outr? i noticed some one mentioned ben moore advanced akylied, low voc but finishes like oil, cleans up with water... i might give that a try as the ben moore in my area won't or don't have tint able water based lacquer. and there is no other paint store for 2 hours... 

i also have another question. it has just started recently but i get a lot of build up on my tip when i am spraying and it blows blobs on the what ever i am spraying... i have changed the filter in gun, turned pressure up and down... try to clean tips to no avail... i am at aloss for what it is... it never used to do it, it just started recently... really annoying though.. i have to keep a rag in my hand and wipe every time i do a pass.. i have tried flotrol... maybe i didn't thin enough, guy at paint story told me not to thin to much but


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## Scribbles (Mar 10, 2009)

The cab lacquer is fantastic, sprays like glass, 3-4 coats and done. One or 2 coats of sanding sealer, sand with 320 2 coats with lacquer and out. Flash time is about 15 min sand able in 60. In and out of the booth in under 4 hours. Cheap too, 1/2 the cost of color Conversion Varnish.


And I think your seals are bad behind your tip allowing material to weep around. That or you are using too much pressure or too large of a tip.


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## Scribbles (Mar 10, 2009)

And it is standard laquer, not waterbase, just lo voc 260-300 somewhere in there


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## Workaholic (Feb 3, 2007)

517 for ceilings and walls, 310 for wide trim and doors or a 210 for narrow trim.


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## Scribbles (Mar 10, 2009)

Workaholic said:


> 517 for ceilings and walls, 310 for wide trim and doors or a 210 for narrow trim.


 
Dude your picture creeps me out


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

I've sprayed the water base laquer. Your environment has to be absolutely clean. Nothing in the air for a couple of days prior to spraying. I found it to be a "fussy" product in that sense.

On site I use either seco or BM ultra. I thin it and spray using an HVLP system.

My spray shop for cabinet work is currently using conversion laquers. He's got a proper exhausted booth, otherwise I don't think you could do it.

I leave that to the pros, but will spray trim on site.


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## Workaholic (Feb 3, 2007)

Scribbles said:


> Dude your picture creeps me out


That is Hugo Strange.


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## vwnuck (Jul 8, 2010)

thanks guys, you all have been a huge help...

i now have 3 tips i have a 517,513 and a 210ff. still undecided as to what paint to try... or just stick to latex... i am trying to get a really nice glass like finish the trim color is and antique off white...it matches the cabinets... i am going to spray everything in place except for base were hard wood is.. i don't want to mask off the whole floor.. so i will spray and install after floor is installed.. so i am going to prime walls install and spray trim.. then cut in and roll walls then flooring then finish the rest of trim... fill and touch up..

i use the 517 for priming walls... the 513 for doors and the 210 for all the trim..


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## novicebusiness (Apr 8, 2011)

This guy knows how to paint.It all has to do with the difference between sprayd finish and brush an roll.Whatever tip you use wether it be a ff or regular latex tip I always turn my pressure up until it stops fingering on the edge of the pattern.I like to do a fine dust coat,sand and recoat wit a good cover coat.I used to be a laquer man all the way but after using the heavier bodied latex ive found you can skip some steps.


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## artiospainting (Mar 16, 2011)

all these other peaple pretty much cover it practice your technique pick one and master it


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