# Tips for one man opperation...



## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Hi everyone, a rain day today, so a good time to post

I am looking for one-man operation tips.

I’m building my own house, by myself (no helpers). I finished framing the 29’ x 48’ deck, tarped it and moved on over to the 3 car garage. The walls (10’ 2x6 and triple headers) are up, the 2x10x24’ ceiling joists installed, two rows of ½” OSB running down the length as a platform for 2x12 ridge erection, common and hip rafters installation, etc. To date, the ridge is in place, approximately 9’-6” above (10/12 pitch), three or four common rafters, and the two hips. (I messed up the two hip calculations… they are too low at the bird-mouth… I will shim up and gusset on both sides with glue and screws)

The house will have a second floor tucked into the massive roof, with dormers. The roof will span 35’, overhanging 6’ in the front to cover the full length porch. Though I will have roughly 26’ 2x10 common rafters, the house roof will be a piece of cake to frame compared to the garage. This is because once I’m standing on the second floor ceiling, the ridge will be approximately at my eye level. No hips on the house either.

Like the garage walls, the house walls and gables can be framed in sections small enough and light enough for one man to erect. For the three 9’-6” triple garage door headers, I nailed two together, mounted, clamped and nailed the third 2x12 and moved on to the next stall. Wall sections with windows and doors were erected without headers (very heavy) and installed last. I braced little by little as I constructed from one end to the other. I ran a first course of sheathing to stiffen the building. Once everything was dead perfect plum, I’d apply a second course of sheathing.

Working on the garage roof framing now, I am going to erect my two poll pump-jack scaffolding along the softit/facia line on one side, use a small 16’ plank on ladder jacks for the other side. This way I can more easily nail the common’s bird mouths to the top plate. I will sheath the hip side of the roof from the scaffolding first, then move the scaffolding over to one of the two remaining sides. I built an angled rack to place a piece of sheeting about half way up. A ladder can be placed inside the rack, so I can hoist up one sheet at a time fairly safely. This will be easier once I get the scaffolding up, and will be able to push a sheet up from the rack from a more solid base. For the first course of sheathing, I’m going to nail stops on the rafter tails, so each piece will slide down into position. Then I can raise the scaffolding up to just below overhang level, nail down my roof jacks and 2x6 foot boards and work my way up.

As a one-man operation I use a lot of 90 degree gusset plates which can be clamped into place. Structural members can then be clamped to the gussets, nailed, repositioned and repeated. I would not have been able to erect the ridge nor the first three common rafters without these. I can clamp a rafter in place, jump down to the bird mouth, tap it tightly, nail, jump up to the ridge, nail the plum cut.

So far I have had it covered. But I am going to do everything in this house. Anything anyone can think of along these lines where I can gain a “third hand”, would be great. 

I haven’t figured out yet how I’m going to drywall ceilings. I have two 6’x29” rolling scaffolds (the yellow ones sold at Menards) which are invaluable. We used to use “T” braces with two guys. I was thinking of building some sort of pitched rack to be mounted on top one of the rolling scaffolds, maybe push/slide one end of a piece of drywall up to the ceiling height, and use a “T” brace to push the other end up? Then kick in one or more “T” braces?

Anyone use one of those funny looking drywall hoists? 

Paul

Ps… I’m new here, and as soon as I figure out how to post pictures, I will do so. Thanks again.


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## maj (Mar 13, 2006)

Rent a drywall lift for a few days!!!!! You won't regret it. They work great on vaulted ceilings too. I've even used them to hold up the top row of wall boards.


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## Peladu (Jan 8, 2006)

"I’m building my own house, by myself (no helpers)." ......


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## snapper21 (Mar 13, 2006)

One man show here also. I bought a TelPro and it basically paid for itself on one finished basement. Even if it didn't do it monetarily, it was worth it to me, and expands capabilities. Definitely rent one and see if it's worth having. It's a no brainer.


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Well I was able to upload a pic to the Gallery, but I need 10 posts in order to post the url.


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Thanks guys. I will check out that lift.


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

I suppose the lift could be used for other things besides drywall too.


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Here’s a recent pic.

http://www.contractortalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=318&cat=503


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Any ideas for getting sheets of OSB onto and up the roof (10/12)?

I’ve been manhandling them up, setting and nailing course by course, pushing them up over the roof brackets and 2x4 footing strips sheet by sheet. I am exhausted!

I rigged up a block and tackle to the ridge, and made up a lightweight sled which can hold 2 or 3 sheets. A few bugs yet to work out, but I loaded one sheet from the ground and pulled it up over two 2x6x14’ “rails” attached to the sub facia with large “L” brackets. As I progress up the roof, the sled can be hoisted up and over the 2x4 footing strips and its bottom can sort of lock into place where the sheathing can be slid sideways off the sled and onto the 2x4s. After the sheet/s are nailed into place, I can guide the sled back down to the ground as I move down.

This is the garage roof I’m trying to finish… a test for the main house roof which will be 50’ long x 6.5 courses high per side.

I will post some pic’s after the rain stops today.

Please don’t hesitate to mention improvements or an entirely better idea.

Thank you,

Paul


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

PainterPaul said:


> Any ideas for getting sheets of OSB onto and up the roof (10/12)?
> 
> I’ve been manhandling them up, setting and nailing course by course, pushing them up over the roof brackets and 2x4 footing strips sheet by sheet. I am exhausted!
> 
> ...


Roofers I've seen dealing with large commercial roofs or slate often have a power ladder. It is a ladder with a motor and a hoist mechanism. You could get 10 sheets up at a time. You would still have to use a hoisting system once on the roof. I don't know if or where you can rent one of these, but they do exist.

The sheetrock hoist is a fantastic helper. You can get one at the box stores for about $25/day To speed things up and keep the rental cost down do as many sheets as you can using as few screws that will hold the sheetrock up in place (please use enough) and then you can go back and fill up the sheet with the proper amount of screws after they are all up.

I'll say you are crazy to do this by yourself, but a good type of crazy:blink: . Make things easier, get a low paid helper for the roof stuff, unless you're hell-bent on doing this all by yourself. Your back will like you in the morning.


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## Bradracer18 (Dec 14, 2005)

You are exhausted because that is hard work.......its hard for 2 men.....but you will get a lot more done, quicker and possibly higher quality with another man helping you. 

Looks good so far, are you building by plans?? I can't see it very well.....but what are the floor joyces sitting on?? 

I don't have any suggestions for a one man show that you don't already have.....other than a nail...lol, sometimes works


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Hey Brad,

Still raining…

The main structure you see is the 3-car garage. 2x8 joists spanning 24’, so nothing under them. I was considering bonus space, but smartly decided against it. It’s just too small of a space up there. (I do have pads under the floor in case someone wants to add a few columns and an I beam. The ceiling is 10’-7” at its lowest point…)

Yes, very hard work. But harder getting the sheathing up there than actually positioning/nailing it down. I was lifting the sheets onto a rack, and then from the ladder “flipping” them up and over onto 2x6 footing boards sitting on roof jacks at the edge. That in and of itself wasn’t too bad. But after the first course was nailed down, and another row of jacks, plus another 2x4 footing, etc., it got insane!

I’m still going to try to get over there if the rain lets up a bit and take some pictures. The roof I’m working on now will eventually tie in to the main house roof, so about 7/8 of it will be finished/felted (ASAP).

Yes, a basic set of plans off the internet, but with lots of changes.

Here’s a link to the plans:

http://www.archwaypress.com/product.php/286.htm

There’s a full basement now, and it’s a large rectangle without the jigs and jags, and the garage is a 3-car, there was an added half bath, numerous sliders, and, on the Rear View I brought the garage up to match the eves on the house (hence the high ceiling).

Stay dry!

Paul


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

PainterPaul said:


> Hey Brad,
> 
> Still raining…
> 
> ...


   

That's about 3 time longer than a double 2x8 should span. Hope you plan on making them part of the roofing structure. If not, boy are they going to sag . I did a 24' structure and I used engineered joists that were 11 7/8" And was able to space them 16" OC. They have a 40lb/sq ft load rating.


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Sorry... I meant 2x10. I have no idea how that happened. Aside from keeping the walls from pushing out, they are there for drywall only.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

PainterPaul said:


> I haven’t figured out yet how I’m going to drywall ceilings.



Read post #8 here

http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=2591


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Paul,
Do yourself a favor and purchase some wall jacks ( made by Procter ) I've had my set for approx. 12 yrs. I have the 24' footers, enables you to lift walls by yourself. You can easily do a 30' gable with a 10/12 pitch sheathed, barge rafters if you're putting overhangs on the gable and all your rake trim. On my house I baloon framed the exterior walls and easily lifted 2x6 wall sheathed 12' high by 36' long with the fireplace wood chase and entire 20' chimney on it. Also used it in a tee - pee fashion to lift a 16' dbl. 9 7/8's glu lam with dbl 5/8's steel flitch plates onto top of walls alone. I'm about 20 months working on my house alone on weekends and spare time. Will start trimming next week, so I know exactly where you're headed, Good Luck. As far as sheathing for the roof I brought all mine up to the second floor deck and handed them over the knee walls, or through dog house dormer openings. Be talking to ya.:thumbsup:


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Sled and Rails...


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## PainterPaul (Aug 17, 2006)

Tom, thank you. Very good method you have there. I'm going to have to find a pillow for my head, though... 

Joe, I will definitely look into these, especially for the gables which I would love to frame in one piece and sheath w/overhangs and facia. Otherwise it will be done in three sections (right/left/top). 
Again, thanks to both!


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## A+Carpenter (Apr 19, 2005)

Peladu said:


> "I’m building my own house, by myself (no helpers)." ......



God made this world with his own two hands. Dont think he can do it?


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Paul,
The 24's are probably around $1200.00, but really worth there wait in gold, you could always sell them after you were done with them, just a thought.


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