# Compound variations



## Heritage (Mar 20, 2007)

I don't specialize in drywall like some of you so I would like some feedback from the pros here. My procedure for a routine job goes something like this:

1.Mesh tape (I use it everywhere expect corners and I have no problems with it)
2.1 coat of 20
3.Either 2 coats of 45 then a 90...OR...1 45 and 1 90
4.Light sand
5.Pre-mixed final coat
6.Final sanding

Now I know some guys have their time tested methods for productivity and end result but it varies.

What do you do for the majority of your jobs? There are special circumstances and scenarios...but I'm talking generally. What compounds do you use at different stages?

So mine would go 20,45,45,90,finish. Or 20,45,90,finish.

So what's your variation?


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

We use paper tape or Strait-Flex..

We use...

All Purpose(green lid) mixed with set 20 to tape
All Purpose Lightweight(blue lid) mixed with set 45 to block
All Purpose Lighweight(blue lid) mixed with set 45 to skim
Sand with 120g sanding screens
Point up with set 90 mixed with(a LITTLE) lightweight


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## Gerard (Apr 14, 2007)

Cut out any broken corners in the angles, check the flats for breaks and cut them out, v-out the butts, fiber tape flats and butts, tape with somewhat runny mud, 1st coat with 90, I find doing the butts and run-ins to beads first, then flats with out butts, then pass through the flats, and do beads last works best so as it allows a little time for the bond to set up (helps to not dig it out) 2nd coat with mix, 3rd coat with mix, then sand. I've never even heard of people adding bond to there mix between coats. It makes no sense to do it. If something is going to move and or crack that little bit of bond or mix won't stop it from moving..


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Gerard said:


> I've never even heard of people adding bond to there mix between coats. It makes no sense to do it. If something is going to move and or crack that little bit of bond or mix won't stop it from moving..


I have been doing drywall and commercial construction for 23 years, and that is how I was always taught, except for my father who is totally old school down to the hawk and trowel. I did finally turn him on to the idea when he was building classrooms for University of Maryland College Park.

It is not so much for added strength as it is for quicker drying time. Mixing some set 90 with some lightwieght and a fan on the job, we can usually double coat the same day. We usually like to tape and block the same day, come back next day and knock off the snots, skim coat with lightweight mixed with set 45 or 90, than sand and point up the day after that. It speeds up production more than anything..and considering my crew hand finishes everything, and usually have 500+ shells or fit outs to complete, plus high end custom homes up to 1500 sheets, time is always of the essence.:thumbsup:


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## 1KingOfDrywall (Jan 14, 2007)

*If under 100 sheets we mesh-bed and skim in a day*

....at least as far as flats and butts joints go. Than we just paper tape the angles with the tube and block and glaze them, than they still need a final coat the next day. If it's a project all walls, than we use straight flex on all the anlges and for the most part bed and skim everything day 1. Usually I mix up a bucket of 45 minute and run it thru my mud box......just be ready to rinse it out quickly when done.:thumbsup:


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

Mud Master said:


> ......... except for my father who is totally old school down to the hawk and trowel.


Ummm......isn't that the..... 'right way'..... to do it?


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## Gerard (Apr 14, 2007)

I am also old school, been filling for 12 years now steady, following my father who has been doing it for 39years and still going strong. Everyone has there own methods yes. Some good, some bad, some REAL bad. As for this drying quicker thing, and my saying that I have never heard of it done before. I should clear that up by saying I have never done a whole house or commercial job that way, I have mixed the stuff up doing repair work, I've even done small jobs with just bond. The only reason I would be against doing it is because of the way I seamfill, in the run of a day I will at a moments notice just hop of the stilts and set my tools down and go for coffee, with the mix you can just leave it in the bucket and no worries. By adding a little bond to the mix I know it wouldn't set up as fast as pure bond but it would still set up right? Or am I wrong? Who knows, maybe I am learning something new here..


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Gerard said:


> I am also old school, been filling for 12 years now steady, following my father who has been doing it for 39years and still going strong. Everyone has there own methods yes. Some good, some bad, some REAL bad. As for this drying quicker thing, and my saying that I have never heard of it done before. I should clear that up by saying I have never done a whole house or commercial job that way, I have mixed the stuff up doing repair work, I've even done small jobs with just bond. The only reason I would be against doing it is because of the way I seamfill, in the run of a day I will at a moments notice just hop of the stilts and set my tools down and go for coffee, with the mix you can just leave it in the bucket and no worries. By adding a little bond to the mix I know it wouldn't set up as fast as pure bond but it would still set up right? Or am I wrong? Who knows, maybe I am learning something new here..


 
Depends, when it comes time for break any extra gets scraped into a spare bucket. I have in the past taken the mixed mud and put it in a open bucket of all purpose and it was fine when I came back, I suppose it is because all the moisture from the all purpose kept any of the quickset from setting up quickly. 

Your right though everyone has different ways of doing things. All of my guys have a variation in thier techniques, even if it is just a small difference. But as long as it is done, and done right..who cares.:thumbsup:


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## Heritage (Mar 20, 2007)

Right on:thumbsup:


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## tlfettled (Oct 19, 2006)

*compound types*

On small jobs where your hand application of mud is applied go with the setting mud get it done fast ! When your doing new construction and your using bazookas and flat box's use light weight mud for everything except large cracks or large gaps then use setting mud by hand application never ever use setting mud in a bazooka or flat box's ! The setting mud will harden inside your equipment ! Hand apply setting mud use light weight or general purpose mud in production equipment such as bazookas ,banjos and flat box's ,corner box's ! arty: "About mesh tape i only use it around hardiboard or duro rock in tub and tile areas ! I never use mesh tape for things like patch work or inside or outside corners ! I hate the mesh tape !


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## Mater (Feb 21, 2007)

1. Paper tape with green lid mud (all purpose mixed with about 20-30 ozs water so when wiping tape your wrist doesn't cry stop within an hour) butts 1st, flats, angles, bead.

2. Bed with light blue lid mud (no water mixed in for less shrink) same order as step one.

3. Skim with light blue lid mud (mix in less water than step one, but put some in) repeat same order as step one.

4. Touch - up (point - up)

5. Sand:thumbsup: 

I've never used a mixture of any DB or quickset for a regular job, as was previously stated, if you set it down for break, or the sudden urge last night's taco bell strikes, you won't have mud set up in your pan. 

If there are patches or something of that nature, then I'll use 60 or 90 minute. I never use under that, or it needs souped up so much it slides off your knife, and before you know it, it's dried in your pan.

BTW: I hand finish also.


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