# Toilet leveling



## extramile (Jan 23, 2011)

Looking for a solution to mounting a new toilet on an uneven/ unlevel floor. Seems like the new 6 liter flush toilets only work -a relative term- when they are mounted level. Every bathroom floor I seem to work on lately requires substantial shimming 1/2 inch in one case. You plumber guys ever consider using low expanding foam to firm up the mount so a fat lady wont tip the bugger over? Appreciate any suggestions other than hiring a plumber to install it -the plumbers available could fill an entire forum with their 'good enough' stories. Thanks.


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## tazmanian (Jul 22, 2010)

level the floor? if the floor isnt level how is the drain? if that isnt level you might get back up? if level is off small amount can use plastic shims and some even use pennies.........................................but hey what do i know:whistling


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## HandyHails (Feb 28, 2009)

For just a toilet "upgrade" plastic shims and caulk.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

shim it to level, pack with sanded grout. Make sure you pack that grout well. Remove shims, pack shim spaces with grout, or use plastic shims and leave them in place.


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## sancho (Apr 3, 2010)

what Handyhails said


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## Sharkbiter (Mar 3, 2011)

Ask the tile guy WTF. The only four tiles in this room that have to be perfectly level, and this is what you do. Then take a hammer and bust out the tile repeat until level.


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## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

Moved to the plumbing section.


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

Grout crumbles over time especially if it's on unstable subfloor and vinyl flooring. The problem with grout however is it sticks to the toilet interior where it's unglazed. I wouldn't do that.

The support for a toilet is obviously the rim of the base. Wood shims are out of the question because of moisture issues and shims do compress. 

What I would do, if possible, is to take the J-bolts out and throw them in the garbage. Go to the hardware store and buy hanger bolts of the right length.

If you don't know what a hanger bolt is it's a shaft with a machine thread on one end and a screw thread on the other. I carry 4" hanger bolts on the truck.

Take a cordless drill and chuck the machine side of the bolt right in the drill and tighten it up.

Make sure the bolt hole spread is right and simply drive it into the subfloor. Once it's it and tight take your hand on the chuck and crack it open. Wala.....now you have solid studs to mount.

The reason why this is good is because no matter how well you shim the toilet it will eventually work it's way loose. J-bolts can only clamp to a certain point on a flange and they are meant for a flat surface where rocking isn't an issue. With potential rocking caused by an uneven floor you odds are much greater of longevity if you mount bolts to the subfloor. You simply get better clamping pressure.

Set the toilet on dry (no wax ring), then level in both directions. Buy plastic toilet shims and start fitting it around the base. Once your happy then pull it off, put the wax ring on, and gently fit it, and squash it.

If it's ugly you can caulk it with a latex tub/shower caulk. Just be sure to leave a weep line behind the toilet so if it does leak it can be seen and not hidden.

Latex caulks are great because they are strong enough hold things, easy to do and cleaning with water makes it pretty nice.

If you use a strong caulk you run the risk of ruining the floor.

Mike


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

I should mention......

If the house is old and the subfloor isn't plywood but rather planks I would predrill the hole because it tends to split. I use 1/4-20 hanger bolts by the way.

Mike


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## Daveylad (Oct 20, 2008)

Here is one I found recently that works quite well. Shim it then pump under a good few blobs with a hot melt glue gun, cut off any excess when hard with a sharp Stanley knife. 

Failing that putty still works well, I know its an old method but it still does the trick. 

Hope this helps 

Daveylad


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## UALocal1Plumber (Jun 19, 2009)

Secure the closet flange to the structure with non corrosive fasteners.

Use plaster of paris under the closet.

Shim with plastic or metal shims until the plaster sets up.

Use high quality latex based caulk to seal around the base.

Pretty much how all water closets are installed.

Keith


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Mike - good answer. Just wondering why the latex? Why not silicone?


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

Tell the carpenters and tile guys to put their stuff in correctly.

Problem solved.


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## EMINNYS (Nov 29, 2010)

Plaster of Paris:thumbsup:


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## rex (Jul 2, 2007)

i use latex cause its water clean up....


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

katoman said:


> Mike - good answer. Just wondering why the latex? Why not silicone?


What rex said, plus...........

Latex has limited strength. If a floor is that out of wack the odds of the vinyl adhering properly are not that good. That said, if the toilet does end up rocking in the future the latex caulk wont pull the vinyl away from the floor.

If you used a stronger adhesive it can....and I have seen it happen. 

I've never used plaster of paris, I guess I've never needed to because I can always make it work. It's an interesting way to do it though. I would think think the porosity of plaster would harbor bacteria though. I'll have to try that sometime.

Mike


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## EMINNYS (Nov 29, 2010)

Mike's Plumbing said:


> What rex said, plus...........
> 
> Latex has limited strength. If a floor is that out of wack the odds of the vinyl adhering properly are not that good. That said, if the toilet does end up rocking in the future the latex caulk wont pull the vinyl away from the floor.
> 
> ...


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

EMINNYS said:


> Mike's Plumbing said:
> 
> 
> > What rex said, plus...........
> ...


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## EMINNYS (Nov 29, 2010)

The Plaster of paris basically molds to the underside of the bowl, and makes up for the low spot(for example if the bowl is rocking on uneven tiles). I mix it thick, not soupy , and use very little . A little bit around the outside of the entire flange causes it to push out when you put the bowl down, and then you can go around the entire base of the bowl with your finger(like caulk) It doesnt crack, and it is sold in every plumbing supply I have ever been in....


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## Mike's Plumbing (Jul 19, 2010)

EMINNYS said:


> The Plaster of paris basically molds to the underside of the bowl, and makes up for the low spot(for example if the bowl is rocking on uneven tiles). I mix it thick, not soupy , and use very little . A little bit around the outside of the entire flange causes it to push out when you put the bowl down, and then you can go around the entire base of the bowl with your finger(like caulk) It doesnt crack, and it is sold in every plumbing supply I have ever been in....


My wholesalers don't sell it, I do know that for sure.

I like the idea though. I have a lot of experience but I'm glad this got mentioned. I think it's cool when I discover something that somebody else does and I've never done it.

I'm gonna try that.:thumbsup:

Mike


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