# Header Hangers



## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

And a good window and a cheap window is a big part of the over all R value of a house.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

wnc viking said:


> And a good window and a cheap window is a big part of the over all R value of a house.


So you are suggesting using a cheap window as a storm window?


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

No just use a good window not the cheap ones at the box stores have in stock


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

wnc viking said:


> No just use a good window not the cheap ones at the box stores have in stock


I've spec'd vinyl windows with a U-value less than .35, Low-E and Argon gas. Anything better than that starts to get exponentially expensive and not cost effective (IMO). 

What is your definition of a _good_ window?


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I like Jeld Wen windows


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

wnc viking said:


> And a good window and a cheap window is a big part of the over all R value of a house.


not really


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> not really


Please elaborate.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I have framed a lot of houses in the 3000 to 4000 sf and the window bill was over $40.000


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Rvalue isn't such a huge deal - air infiltration is, and solar gain in the AC zones is. Yes, vinyl windows can be installed just fine in an opening and trimmed out without nailers.

The bulging issue with header hangers is a very real issue if you're trying to do finish work that doesn't stink. Very few options - you can bend the hanger a little and inlet the header and studs (a lot of work). I do ADA, and that smooths out a bump like this some, but not enough. You can shave the backside of the drywall in that location (quick and easy). Leave the backside weak, or do a patch (I leave it weak - ADA gives plenty of added strength around these openings).

For those of you who think nailers, jack studs, etc in a load bearing wall are needed for window and door openings, I can tell you a 100+ year old building convinced me you're not exactly right. Didn't even have headers. Trim was right where it was supposed to be, and so were the windows. I wouldn't recommend anyone try that with 1/2" OSB sheathing, though.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

wnc viking said:


> I have framed a lot of houses in the 3000 to 4000 sf and the window bill was over $40.000


The house next door was remodeled and all of the windows were replaced for about that amount. All were Pella wood windows. Nice windows but I think half the cost was the Pella label.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

What was the sheeting 1x12 oak I have seen that to


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

hdavis said:


> For those of you who think nailers, jack studs, etc in a load bearing wall are needed for window and door openings, I can tell you a 100+ year old building convinced me you're not exactly right.


While I agree, would you care to come argue that point with my local inspector? :whistling


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

hdavis said:


> Rvalue isn't such a huge deal - air infiltration is, and solar gain in the AC zones is.


True, I look at all of the various ratings but generally the U value (inverse of R) will dicate the other performance factors for Energy Star qualified windows. That is, a window that is designed with a U factor of .32 will have corespondingly good ratings for SHGC for the geographic zone. Furthermore, with this project, I have the flexibility of optimizing the orientation for the specific lat-lon (N 28 degrees east). 

I chose a window at the point on the curve where, if I doubled the investment, I would only get a 10% improvement in performance.

I've had clients insist on windows that had more than 30 year payback over windows half the price.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> While I agree, would you care to come argue that point with my local inspector? :whistling


Next time I'm in PA, I'd be glad to:laughing:

Make sure you don't really need the permit:whistling


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

wnc viking said:


> What was the sheeting 1x12 oak I have seen that to


Variable - 1X10 pine or cedar up to 1X34.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

hdavis said:


> Make sure you don't really need the permit:whistling


:laughing:


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