# Pouring a slab in my truck



## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

This may seem crazy to some. I need ballast for my snow plow. I've run tube sand and buckets of sand but they are hard to tie down. I want to pour a slab in the back of my bed that can be removed easily. I'm thinking of making it a three piece so I can get it out easier. I want to pour it tight to the floor bed and the sides so all the shapes and contours lock it into place. Of course it can still go up. The more weight the better. I've figured it to be around 800 lbs. what I'm wondering is how well the thing will hold up over time in my truck. It really shouldn't bounce much, but will all the road jolts just crack the concrete over time? I'll use rebar and mesh wherever possible to add strength, but if the thing is going to crack it isn't worth the effort. Just wondering. Thanks, Nick. Oh, going to be around 7" thick.


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Put how ever many bags of pre-mix you need back there then soak them. The bag will keep it all together while conforming to the beds profile. When it is time to take them out they will still be in the bag.


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## 2low4nh (Dec 12, 2010)

just use sand


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## summithomeinc (Jan 3, 2011)

I don't know what kind of bed your truck has but I would be worried about rust and corrosion. Wouldn't the concrete eat at the metal? And trap water?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

do they make wheel weights?:blink:seems to me you would be better off with the weight un sprung?...maybe not,just wondering


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## Cole82 (Nov 22, 2008)

get a salter/sander.


In an old dually pick up I had the ride was terrible so I bought a 4x8' sheet of 5/8" steel plate. Made the ride just bearable enough to drive it. Don't know what it weighed, loaded it in with a fork lift and never took it out.

Cole


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

7" thick over the whole truck bed is a heck of a lot more than 800lbs.

10 - 80lb bags = 800 lbs which also equals about 6 cubic feet. 

7" of concrete to cover the bed of the truck would be closer to 1 yard of material = 3,400 lbs.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Man that's crazy, how much would a few bags of sand move around?


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## Aaron Berk (Jul 10, 2010)

if you have consistent freezing temps.

There is a company that markets a "water bladder" that fills your bed and then freezes solid.

Not sure where I saw it, but I know it can be found.

I like the concrete bags personally, and you could add a 2x4 in there somewhere to section off the bed and keeps things organized.


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## 2low4nh (Dec 12, 2010)

I almost always have a yard of sand in the truck when plowing for weight and traction when needed.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Ok. Truck background. 2005 f350 crewcab short bed. I'm going to take this in and out when done plowing. It will not be in the truck all winter. I've got a tractor with forks. It will kill my fuel mileage and i need all i can get My bed is line x'd so not worried about rust. I'll just be pouring behind the rear axle to get the weight as far back as possible. About 7"x 5.5'x2'. I run a system one rack with boxes so no sander on the truck. Not my thing. I just plow. There are slots in the bed for 2x8's on edge. I'm pouring to the top of those. I want something clean and easy to get around. I carry building materials often and I've had enough climbing over and battling materials over sand bags and buckets. Plus, I'm looking for as much weight as possible in this area and want to keep it behind the rear axle


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I'm actually thinking of burying window weights in the pour to add to the weight as much as possible. Only thing I'm really worried about is the thing moving around. It could move up I can fasten it to the rear cargo tethers but they arent goingto hold the whole thing if it all goes to hell. The middle will have to lock into the sides as it will come out first and the sides will slide towards the middle and then I can lift them out


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## davitk (Oct 3, 2008)

Fill your rear tires with wiper fluid. :thumbup:

I used to throw four bundles of shingles behind the wheel wells of my rwd F150. Weren't much fun to move around, though.


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## stacker (Jan 31, 2006)

why not just form some blocks and pour them solid something to attach a chain to so you can load and unload them easily.or just go buy a concrete road barrier and put it in the bed.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

^^best idea yet^^


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

stacker said:


> why not just form some blocks and pour them solid something to attach a chain to so you can load and unload them easily.or just go buy a concrete road barrier and put it in the bed.


A road barrier. Hah. I've got a short bed.


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## Aaron Berk (Jul 10, 2010)

I'm starting to like the poured in slab idea.

If you contain it to the rear of the wheel wells, and pour it in such a way as to make it easy to lift out. 
Add some lifting eyes to the pour, and make that sucker 10" thick. I doubt you'd ever really have an issue with it bouncing out. 


The road barrier would require secure strapping each and every time. which would get old.


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## Aaron Berk (Jul 10, 2010)

here is another thought.

How about a large expanded metal box? One that fit tight front to rear, and also up against the wheel wells in width.
Have fork pockets in the bottom of it.
Fill the whole thing with sand bags, or whatever (shingle tear off, busted up concrete....) 
You could make the sides as high as you needed, and in the summer empty it and use it as a trash container or some other such nonsense.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

here ya go ...plop this in there and lift it out when your finished...
That'll use up some payload :laughing:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

we call them mafia blocks here:whistling


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## 2low4nh (Dec 12, 2010)

guy here has 4 of those in his f350 dump that is some weight!


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

V10= awful fuel economy. I want to take these thing out as soon as the plow comes off. But if they get stuck in the truck I need the truck bed to be somewhat useful. Also, I only want weight in the rear of the bed behind the axles. I can't come up with a better idea than I have. 
Having a heart attack here with the pats. 25 sec

Edit.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> we call them mafia blocks here:whistling


Omerta Tom,...Omerta :blink:

this job was for mustache Pete - you want to get us whacked :laughing:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

What about mixing bags in 40 degree weather. I've got Quikrete 5k mix. Should I use and accelerator or something or should I just tarp my truck and stick a heater in the bed? If I can build the form today and pour tomorrow will it setup enough tomorrow and overnight to remove it or drive around? It's going down to upper 20's at night here.


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## 2low4nh (Dec 12, 2010)

how are you forming it up in the truck? crete will stick like a bastard to liner.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Just put some 8" blocks in the back. Ive plowed snow with several f250s and a few of my f350s. Just put some sand or 8" blocks in there.

I keep a piece of plywood in the bed of my truck, so it would be easy to just screw 2x4's to it so that it will keep the blocks in place.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

You can also get 1/2 mafia blocks 2x2x3 about 1500 lbs. Also sometimes you can find smaller ones 18 x18x36


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

2low4nh said:


> how are you forming it up in the truck? crete will stick like a bastard to liner.


I was planning on putting down a 1-2 mil piece of poly so the crete could conform to the bed but not stick. I'll have to be really careful not to tear it of course.


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## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

I think you are completely insane with this idea.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

shanekw1 said:


> I think you are completely insane with this idea.


 That's what I was looking for.:thumbsup: no joke.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

Another idea, take a pallet and place the concrete bags on there: easy in and out.

Or, using the pallet idea, build a box on top, fill the box with concrete, sand or rock: easy in and out.

I'd use something I could reuse if I stopped plowing, like sand or rocks.


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## aureliconstruct (Dec 9, 2011)

If you want to pour it, make sure you line your truck bed with rhino lining. You will have to use 6x6 steel to make sure it doesn't break up. Also I would use fiber in the mix as well for extra strength. Pour 3 section leaving a 1x6 in between the section to give it a 1" space for easy removal. Yes it is crazy but can be done. Let me know how it works.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

aureliconstruct said:


> If you want to pour it, make sure you line your truck bed with rhino lining. You will have to use 6x6 steel to make sure it doesn't break up. Also I would use fiber in the mix as well for extra strength. Pour 3 section leaving a 1x6 in between the section to give it a 1" space for easy removal. Yes it is crazy but can be done. Let me know how it works.


Fiber is a good idea.


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## JD3lta (Nov 22, 2009)

DOT who?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

what snow are ya plowing?:blink:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Tom Struble said:


> what snow are ya plowing?:blink:


No kidding. It has to snow at some point. I get these ideas in my head and have to do them. This is going to be safer than some of the other setups I've seen.


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

I think that it's a good idea, however, I think that it will last you only one season. I'm not so sure that concrete can withstand the bumps and vibration of being in the bed. Concrete works great on a solid surface like the ground.. however, I think that by the time the season is over, your 3 slabs will be broken into 3 dozen chunks.

Also, I think it would be a great idea to stick some eye bolts with washers in the concrete so that when it dries, it will be easier to lift.


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

Morning Wood said:


> This may seem crazy to some. I need ballast for my snow plow. I've run tube sand and buckets of sand but they are hard to tie down. I want to pour a slab in the back of my bed that can be removed easily. I'm thinking of making it a three piece so I can get it out easier. I want to pour it tight to the floor bed and the sides so all the shapes and contours lock it into place. Of course it can still go up. The more weight the better. I've figured it to be around 800 lbs. what I'm wondering is how well the thing will hold up over time in my truck. It really shouldn't bounce much, but will all the road jolts just crack the concrete over time? I'll use rebar and mesh wherever possible to add strength, but if the thing is going to crack it isn't worth the effort. Just wondering. Thanks, Nick. Oh, going to be around 7" thick.


You could sink in a few post anchors and when summer comes, your already for a gazebo. :thumbup:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

I'll post some pics when I'm done. You guys will be jealous. I'll post some more pics when they break up too.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I think your fine pouring in 40* weather. Throw some tarps on it for the night and maybe an old blanket. Use hot water for mixing to help with the heat. The reaction is exothermic. If you keep the heat in it will give back enough heat to keep it going. It may stop reacting for a few hours but it will start hydrating again once it gets warm.


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## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

Just put a drain plug on the tailgate and fill it with water


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

dom-mas said:


> I think your fine pouring in 40* weather. Throw some tarps on it for the night and maybe an old blanket. Use hot water for mixing to help with the heat. The reaction is exothermic. If you keep the heat in it will give back enough heat to keep it going. It may stop reacting for a few hours but it will start hydrating again once it gets warm.


Yesterday was really nice, but I didn't have time to do it. Hopefully today for the two outside pieces


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

knucklehead said:


> Just put a drain plug on the tailgate and fill it with water


i can't find my drain plug hole


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

If we actually had winter here I would freeze ice blocks in my truck. But alas, winter this year hasn't really shown up yet.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

use wakeboarding fatsac. you can rig them up with a pump that will fill them in a matter of mins and empty as quick. they also come in hundreds of shapes and sizes.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

What you're doing is a good idea IMO, just make sure you leave a pocket at each side so you can tie it down to the bed. IF you were ever in an accident, you need to secure the load so it doesn't move. Remember, when the truck's rolling over, gravity won't hold the concrete in..........:whistling

As for the concrete, use hot water with the 5000 mix, along with a little handful of calcium chloride used to clear ice from sidewalks, and it will be strong enough in a day or two.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

jomama said:


> IF you were ever in an accident, you need to secure the load so it doesn't move.


Sometimes plowing is like being in an accident every 90 seconds..:whistling


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

About an hour in I almost called it quits. But that's how it goes when I'm flying by the seat of my pants. Half way done.


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Morning Wood said:


> About an hour in I almost called it quits. But that's how it goes when I'm flying by the seat of my pants. Half way done.


I think it is a good plan. You can always pull out the center one if it is too much weight. Keep posting pics as you go.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

mixed up 16 bags and id say i used about 15.5 of them. Now just waiting to dry.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Morning Wood said:


> mixed up 16 bags and id say i used about 15.5 of them. Now just waiting to dry.



Sorry but I have to correct you. 

Now just waiting to cure


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## skyhook (Mar 17, 2007)

I hope you have a full floating rear axel. :thumbsup:


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

dom-mas said:


> Sorry but I have to correct you.
> 
> Now just waiting to cure


You're right. Doah! Actually, now just waiting to freeze and crumble.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

skyhook said:


> I hope you have a full floating rear axel. :thumbsup:


Full sinking rear


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## shanekw1 (Mar 20, 2008)

If you are going to go and do the craziest thing I ever heard of with your truck, you damn well better post some more pics!


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

I kinda like the idea! What is the door clamped to the toolboxes for? maybe I missed it.


Dave


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

dkillianjr said:


> I kinda like the idea! What is the door clamped to the toolboxes for? maybe I missed it.
> 
> Dave


I did that and then draped some rubber roof over it and put an electric heater in it overnight. Trying to keep the concrete warm even though the truck bed is surely sucking heat out of it

I'll post some pics of finished product.


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

Morning Wood said:


> I did that and then draped some rubber roof over it and put an electric heater in it overnight. Trying to keep the concrete warm even though the truck bed is surely sucking heat out of it
> 
> I'll post some pics of finished product.


O ok thats sorta what I was assuming. Looking forward to the pics!


Dave


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

The real question. How long should I wait for these things to cure before I lift them out of the back of my truck? Mid 40's during the day. 25-30 at night. I used accelerator and I've kept them covered with some marginal heating over night. I'm putting warm water on them every now and then throughout the day


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Morning Wood said:


> The real question. How long should I wait for these things to cure before I lift them out of the back of my truck? Mid 40's during the day. 25-30 at night. I used accelerator and I've kept them covered with some marginal heating over night. I'm putting warm water on them every now and then throughout the day


i'd say a couple of days and then you are fine....you won't complete the curing process for aproximately a month, but assuming you flared your rebar and have it deep enough I bet you will be fine. 48hrs or so and you have 80% of your strength....so they say.


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

Rockmonster said:


> Well, if he had smuggled that in from Mexico, he wouldn't have to mix any more concrete for a while.........


That would've barely covered fuel to get back to mass


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

Looks like it worked out pretty good!:thumbup: 




Dave


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

So how do you lift them out?


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

BCConstruction said:


> So how do you lift them out?


I'm huge. Actually, it more of a pain than I thought it would be. I use a tractor with a backhoe attachment. 
When I first tried to take them out they wouldn't budge. I had forgotten to unbolt the front piece of angle iron that holds them together. I was sh&$ ting bricks there for a second.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Morning Wood said:


> I'm huge. Actually, it more of a pain than I thought it would be. I use a tractor with a backhoe attachment.
> When I first tried to take them out they wouldn't budge. I had forgotten to unbolt the front piece of angle iron that holds them together. I was sh&$ ting bricks there for a second.


:laughing::laughing:


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

WOW, those are uglier than dog poop. Good job. :thumbup:


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