# Heat for my shop....



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

beenthere said:


> http://www.modinehvac.com/web/Hot-Dawg.htm#.VOG-jy5Ld3U
> 
> They can be vented through the sidewall, so no hole in the roof to leak later.


Thanks for the video...that's a pretty nice unit :thumbsup:


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Modines are good units.

Part of the reason people use the elevated units is to keep floor space clear. It's the most common route I've seen, and it works well. If you were going to be working on vehicles, then putting in hydronic heat is a really good option, but it takes some time to come up to temp.


----------



## BadgerBoilerMN (Sep 10, 2010)

Infrared tube heater. 

http://www.badgerboilerservice.com/infrared.html


----------



## GettingBy (Aug 19, 2010)

At ballpark 10w/sq. ft. you'd need 22kw.

This
http://www.onlineconversion.com/
will convert kw of power to BTU/hr of power.

Rent a heater, 100A or less at 240v, and try it. If the thing is on half the time to maintain your setpoint temp then you need 12 kw.

This site
http://www.degreedays.net/
along with your utility bills may tell you how much you'll spending to heat your shop at your location.


----------



## Lettusbee (May 8, 2010)

I have a 50x100 shop with 14' ceilings, and it has a long infrared unit running down the middle. At 14' high, it burns my head when I work directly underneath. I'd hate to think of one of those at 10' 

My old shop was 27' x 27' with 12' ceilings. It had a ceiling mounted gas heater in the far corner, that worked well, but it was also very well insulated. 

I keep my current shop at 40deg, and crank it up to 50-55 when I'm working. I store all of the temperature sensitive materials in a 10x14 room with an electric baseboard heater that I keep set at 55 all winter.


----------



## B.D.R. (May 22, 2007)

Infrared tube heaters are great in my opinion, if the ceiling height is above eight ft.
What is your budget?
I use only a 220 drywall heater. It allows me to move it around, heats everything up great. 
Usually I just want to take the chill off


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

I was working with a local HVAC guy the other day, and in a very short conversation, he told me he can put me like a 'stand up ' type gas furnace in for around $1600-$1700.

We were both working and I didn't have much time, and I didn't want to bother him. So I don't know any details on his estimate or what kind of unit he was referring to.

But I will be back in touch with him to get further details....


----------



## beenthere (Mar 5, 2009)

Do you have the floor space for it. I know that may sound kind of funny. But often, no matter how large a shop is. Space for storage is a premium. 

Very cheap price. Please post the details when you get them from him.


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

beenthere said:


> Do you have the floor space for it. I know that may sound kind of funny. But often, no matter how large a shop is. Space for storage is a premium.
> 
> Very cheap price. Please post the details when you get them from him.


He said his is the same.....it's just a unit ,no ducts, just blows heat out the top, maybe? And its not hard wired, just plugged in?

I'm not real sure about any details, but as soon as I can talk to him, I'll certainly post.:thumbsup:


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

I want to thank every body that's taking their time to help me out and reply to my question. I'm seriously clueless when it comes to stuff like this.

I appreciate it, Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## nickko (Nov 11, 2012)

you definitely want something with sealed combustion. you want to bring outside air in for combustion. also something that would be sealed from solvent fumes.

nicko


----------



## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

I wanted to mention after my comment about BTU numbers, if it were my shop I'd have at least 100,000 btu heater. Keep in mind that's a gallon of propane an hour when it's running.


----------



## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

You might want to look into a ceiling hung unit heater too. I have a Reznor UDAP series in my shop and it works well.


----------



## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

brickhook said:


> I have a 36'x60' split face block building, with an open floor plan (except for an 8'x8' bathroom.) with a 10' ceiling.
> 
> I need some kind of heat. So I was hoping some one in the HVAC section can steer me in the right direction. I'm leaning towards some kind of gas unit....but I don't know.
> *
> ...


Out of curiosity, why not?


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

My mom burns wood and has an oil furnace and it's all I can do to keep her wood cut .And I don't like the idea of having to keep a fire burning all the time in the shop. ( I actually have a flue built)

And with her furnace, seems like that thing has required a lot of maintenance over the years.


----------



## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

I get not wanting oil. But, it looks as if wood is abundant in your neck of the woods, and being dependent on propane delivery, and with the prices of propane. I dunno. Personally, I would favor a wood heater. 

But, if that's not what you want, and, your entertaining a floor furnace without ducting, why not an Electric air handler coupled with a heat hump? You would have heating and cooling, and wont be dependent on propane.


----------



## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

I was out working in my shop/garage today.

I put a 90+ efficient natural gas furnace in there which I had taken out of another house. The condensate water drains into a large peanut butter jar and I have to empty it outside or into a larger bucket.

First thing I would do is partition off the area where you want to work, and insulate the bejesus out of it.

The building that I have is slab on grade, but I think the footings or under the slab might be insulated, because I don't think it has frozen in there with no heat in the past 2 years. I come in there in the summer when it is blazing hot outside and it is like 72 degrees inside.

There is something like a 20x20 garage with maybe a 16x20 additional area. I have the furnace in the smaller area. When I arrive, I unlock the door and go into the partitioned area and flip the on switch for the furnace, then I'll go and unload some stuff out of my car. Mind you, I'm starting out at maybe 34 degrees, but it takes no time at all to get up to 60.

Today I was working in the unheated area, so I just left the passage door open and it heated up to 45 or so in there. It was about 20 degrees outside.

That's my tip-insulate like crazy and partition. With any luck, you won't need to burn fuel to keep the place from freezing.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Pick up an old woodstove, put a pellet grate in it, and burn hardwood pellets.


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

I have a wood stove in there now, and pretty much the only thing its good for, is standing around it and talking :laughing:


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

flashheatingand said:


> I get not wanting oil. But, it looks as if wood is abundant in your neck of the woods, and being dependent on propane delivery, and with the prices of propane. I dunno. Personally, I would favor a wood heater.
> 
> But, if that's not what you want, and, your entertaining a floor furnace without ducting, why not an Electric air handler coupled with a heat hump? You would have heating and cooling, and wont be dependent on propane.


That sounds like a good idea ,too. I called the HVAC guy last night and he hasn't returned my call yet. So I'm wondering what he can come up with.


----------



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

brickhook said:


> I have a wood stove in there now, and pretty much the only thing its good for, is standing around it and talking :laughing:


That's a puzzler. Dry hardwood you should be able to get 1100F or better off of it, unless it's one of those Franklin fireplaces or something like that. Probably instant heat is better for you any way...


----------



## brickhook (May 8, 2012)

It's a Mama Bear. I only used it a time or two when I first built the shop.
Plus, the ceiling isn't insulated yet.


----------



## flashheatingand (May 3, 2008)

brickhook said:


> I have a wood stove in there now, and pretty much the only thing its good for, is standing around it and talking :laughing:


Could you place a box fan behind the wood stove or behind the flue pipe. The principle being that you would blow air across the heat generated...heat transfer, etc.

I think that would help. Last night we were at a buddies place playing cards, and he had a ceiling mounted electric heater. Turned on the fan only (mounted by the flue piping), while the wood stove was operating, and the place felt very comfortable.

No need to commit $ to anything, as you probably could find a fan at thrift store for a song during this time of the year.


----------



## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

Obviously insulating the ceiling is job one, I'd look at spray in place fire resistant foam. or installing another vented layer of tin on sleepers to cut back on the solar heat gain.

The biggest problem with combined shop warehouses is the more stuff stored the longer it takes to warm the space and "stuff" up if you don't leave the heat/cooling on. Maybe a blue tarp curtain between the tons of "stuff" and the mostly empty work space...


----------



## Dr Heat (Dec 25, 2008)

I like the mini split option. I would use the heat pump to maintain a 45 degree temp when not in use, then fire up the wood furnace to achieve your working temp. 

Also remember propane is about as costly as electric. The heat pump will save you some operating costs. The buy in is higher than resistance electric.


----------



## BadgerBoilerMN (Sep 10, 2010)

Lettusbee said:


> I have a 50x100 shop with 14' ceilings, and it has a long infrared unit running down the middle. At 14' high, it burns my head when I work directly underneath. I'd hate to think of one of those at 10'
> 
> My old shop was 27' x 27' with 12' ceilings. It had a ceiling mounted gas heater in the far corner, that worked well, but it was also very well insulated.
> 
> I keep my current shop at 40deg, and crank it up to 50-55 when I'm working. I store all of the temperature sensitive materials in a 10x14 room with an electric baseboard heater that I keep set at 55 all winter.


We install them at 8'. Your unit was misapplied and perpetuates the misinformation about properly applied low-intensity tube heaters. 

Radiant floors are the answer unless you have to crank it up 12 hours a week and turn it off the rest. This kind of operation can also lead to the hot-head syndrome since the any heater sized for large pickup will have to run hot and long to catch up.

Better to insulate the space properly and keep it all at a temperature within 10 degrees of your working temp.


----------



## BadgerBoilerMN (Sep 10, 2010)

Fouthgeneration said:


> Obviously insulating the ceiling is job one, I'd look at spray in place fire resistant foam. or installing another vented layer of tin on sleepers to cut back on the solar heat gain.
> 
> The biggest problem with combined shop warehouses is the more stuff stored the longer it takes to warm the space and "stuff" up if you don't leave the heat/cooling on. Maybe a blue tarp curtain between the tons of "stuff" and the mostly empty work space...


Excellent point and good advice.


----------



## BadgerBoilerMN (Sep 10, 2010)

Dr Heat said:


> I like the mini split option. I would use the heat pump to maintain a 45 degree temp when not in use, then fire up the wood furnace to achieve your working temp.
> 
> Also remember propane is about as costly as electric. The heat pump will save you some operating costs. The buy in is higher than resistance electric.


If you keep it perfectly clean and you need AC.


----------



## Dr Heat (Dec 25, 2008)

good point if dirt is an issue you will need to do the maintenance. You do not nee to use the ac.


----------



## trussme (Jan 18, 2013)

You do not want anything with a visible flame. If you can see the the flame when you take of the service doors off, chemicals from glue, paint, and other products will rot the heat exchanger and you will find yourself spending more money and create an unsafe condition. You want a heat pump or radiant type heating.


----------

