# Shower valve opposite end



## Nowhere (Sep 12, 2016)

See the pic here. May wish to specify shower valve on left wall so you don't get wet turning it on to warm up. That glass is fixed.

There is a conditioned no-freeze attic above but we can route the lines (all PEX) to the head through the floor, if we wish.

Any cautions?


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## illbuildit.dd (Jan 7, 2015)

Why would you go through the floor? Sounds like hell to me.


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## Frank Castle (Dec 27, 2011)

How are you going to put in blocking, to securely mount that valve, without tearing out all that tile? Can you get to it from the other side?


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Frank Castle said:


> How are you going to put in blocking, to securely mount that valve, without tearing out all that tile? Can you get to it from the other side?


I don't think the job is done, he's a designer. Why he doesn't ask the questions he ask here rather than the contractors doing the work is beyond me.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Yeah that's a rendering.

With fixed glass, some AHJs require the valve on the opposite side so you don't accidentally scald yourself as you adjust temperature.


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## Nowhere (Sep 12, 2016)

Build is getting done up in West Nowheresville, and subs are notoriously clueless. Countywide population is the size of a small community college and the nearest Lowes, WalMart, or Home Depot is an hour and a half away. I ask here because I believe the level of professionalism is high and I seek reliable advice.



The run for the PEX lines from proposed valve to head is less than 15 feet. That, when backing down and going underfloor. Same distance if we go overhead.


I'm just looking for the cautions. I know it can be done.


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## Nowhere (Sep 12, 2016)

And the AHJ is clueless also so we won't get any help from them.

The site is up a dirt road only seasonally maintained. The town only started requiring building permits a dozen years ago. The inspector's primary job is driving the school bus.

If you work in a major metro area you probably don't know what it's like out in the flyover boonies where the great majority of homebuilding is done by the property owners themselves, and that includes work such as electrical and plumbing.


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## Unger.const (Jun 3, 2012)

Did one instead of opposite wall. Did the control on back wall. Otherwise you have to run to the other side of the shower and then back to see if the temp adjustment was good.......back forth back.

I wouldn't recommend going under the floor. That would create a huge p-trap effect from valve to showerhead. Creating ice cold stagnant water blasting for a while before warm fresh water gets there.

Going over top has less travel distance and may drain some after shut off.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Unger.const said:


> Did one instead of opposite wall. Did the control on back wall. Otherwise you have to run to the other side of the shower and then back to see if the temp adjustment was good.......back forth back.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend going under the floor. That would create a huge p-trap effect from valve to showerhead. Creating ice cold stagnant water blasting for a while before warm fresh water gets there.
> 
> Going over top has less travel distance and may drain some after shut off.


Just put in a toe test next time.


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

OP, we do it a lot. There is nothing that says the valve must be on the same wall as the shower head. In addition to putting the valve on the opposite wall, we also move it closer to the entry point. There is nothing that says it has to be centered in the shower.

We will run the line up, down, around… whatever it takes to keep it in conditioned space.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

Some will use 3/8" pex for the line from the valve to the shower head. No change in flow rate but takes half the time for temp changes to be felt.


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## Nowhere (Sep 12, 2016)

Thanks for the info.

We'd run it across the back but it's an outside wall.

Sounds like we'll be OK running up and over, which is easier than under due to the direction of framing.

Thought of the toe tester spout, which I've done before, but it's a pricey little thing, and an added plumbing opening.


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