# Epoxy Grout



## CharlieDelta (Aug 17, 2016)

So I have read a handful of threads in regards to cementitious grout vs epoxy grout. I find myself doing more and more tile jobs lately and I am considering switching to epoxy grout for the reasons listed in all the threads here (durability, water impermeable, etc).

A couple questions I still have in regards to epoxy:

1- What is the biggest application change between cementitious and epoxy grout if any? Being that I have never used epoxy grout, I can only assume it's applied in the same manner (floated and then wiped with a sponge).

2- Do things like grout line size matter with epoxy? For example using sanded or unsanded grout when the grout line is less than or greater than 1/8"


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

You really don't have the same time to fvck around. Unless the job is small and you have a good mis en place of clean water you really don't want to hit it solo. When it starts to firm up and you're only half way through you will be ****ting bricks.


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## Peter_C (Nov 26, 2014)

IF you decide to work with epoxy invest in a nice kitchen scale (Think I paid $15 or so at Costco). Buy in bulk and break it up into smaller portions. I work in quarters, but can break it down smaller when needed, and typically buy the "FULL" size. Large jobs it would be better to buy the "COMMERCIAL" size which comes in a 5 gallon bucket. Turn scale on, set zero, drop bag on scale, read weight and write down, subtract approximate weight of bag out, divide by four and repeat for other parts. I keep notes handy of weights by breakdown in my tiling box. When ready to mix turn on scale set mixing tub on scale and zero scale. Add each amount required for proper mix, grab drill and stir together, then go to it!

It does set fairly quickly but by breaking it up it is not a problem. Using a disposable mixing bucket and a small paddle mixer on my drill, I can be grouting fairly quickly. Epoxy does require a different grout float. Cleanup must be done at exactly the right time and very rapidly. Call it a workout as you need to move fast. I like using the white scuffy pads on a handle as long as the tile won't scratch easily. Sponges won't last as long either, as you will be rubbing hard and it takes more elbow grease. Fortunately long term for the client it takes far less elbow grease to clean up. 

Same grout line size difference applies between sanded and unsanded. 

There are other options for grout too.


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## charimon (Nov 24, 2008)

Lati Spectralock Is where I would start. It is one of the more forgiving Epoxy's on the market concerning workability, Cleanability, and over all ease of use.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> You really don't have the same time to fvck around. Unless the job is small and you have a good mis en place of clean water you really don't want to hit it solo. When it starts to firm up and you're only half way through you will be ****ting bricks.


Ardex FL and WA puts that issue to rest.


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## nickko (Nov 11, 2012)

i use spectrlock mini units. I work by myself and it takes more time but i can grout pretty leisurely using the mini units. I just figure it into my price of the job. i have bought up to ten mini units for a job so that is about $400.00 worth of grout vs about $100.00 for two 25 pound bags of perma color. My grout joints are usually 1/8 to 3/16. 
Once i grout with one unit I wait about fifteen minutes and do my initial wash then i mix another unit and wait about fifteen minutes and do an initial wash on that then go back and do a final wash on the first unit and so on.

nicko


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## LATICRETE (Apr 11, 2017)

charimon said:


> Lati Spectralock Is where I would start. It is one of the more forgiving Epoxy's on the market concerning workability, Cleanability, and over all ease of use.


Here is some additional information on LATICRETE SPECTRALOCK® PRO Grout (including how to video):

Please let us know if you'd like more information. We're happy to help!


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