# T1-11 siding remove and install



## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

Golden view said:


> That's what's not working for him since it's block at the bottom, but one could set nails at the top and hold the sheet tight to the nails. A lot easier to lift a little more than needed than hold at exactly the right place.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I put a 2 x 4 ledger across the bottom, put in with SDS/ tapcon screws. Snug against the existing sheets.

Then I rip the length of the wall, 4 feet high, cutting the boards in half. I will often pull many of the nails, but not all of them. Once the 4 x 4 sheets start, a few nails won’t be too difficult.

Easy Peezy. No helper.




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## danrush (Apr 4, 2017)

Many moons ago I worked as a helper for a guy doing tons of panels. He took some 4 or 5" L brackets and cut a horizontal slot and bent one end 90*. We would loosely nail the bracket to the bottom plate, rest the panel on the brackets, nail off the top, then slide the bracket off, abandoning the nails behind the panel.


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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

When I get panels with a bad bottom, I usually just cut the bottom and flash and only replace the bottom foot or two.

Then we run a trim board to cover the gap. That's usually the customers choice. Especially when it is a board and batt setup, or at deck level.

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## bilskro (Aug 11, 2016)

Tried lots of different ways and what worked best is shown in the attached photos.

1) Attach a board across the T1-11. This made it a 1000 times easier to lift and adjust the board in place.

2) Nail 2 angle bracket to the studs such that the bottom of the bracket is 3/4" below where you want to hand the T-11. This way no nail or screw is driven into the concrete block Used a nail whose head was smaller than the hole in the bracket and nailed it just snug enough so the bracket could be slipped off after nailing in the T-11.

The 3/4" board was used so it could be remove and have enough leeway to lift and remove the bracket from behind the T1-11


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## WoodFramer (Mar 9, 2020)

Ummm, I guess I should start overthinking things. This old back might be not so worn out? :laughing:


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

WoodFramer said:


> Ummm, I guess I should start overthinking things. This old back might be not so worn out? :laughing:


He's not a Contractor. :no:

He's a property maintenance guy. 

Not like he does this $#!T for a living.

Probably seems like a big deal to hang some siding.


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## Donohue Const (Dec 31, 2011)

no house wrap?
just covering all that moldy crappy gypsum sheeting up?

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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

Donohue Const said:


> no house wrap?
> just covering all that moldy crappy gypsum sheeting up?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I think below is the answer you're looking for.




Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> He's not a Contractor. :no:
> 
> He's a property maintenance guy.
> 
> ...


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Donohue Const said:


> no house wrap?
> just covering all that moldy crappy gypsum sheeting up?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


House wrap is a new thing:laughing: I've put on miles of the T1-11 right on the studs:blink:


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## Donohue Const (Dec 31, 2011)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> House wrap is a new thing:laughing: I've put on miles of the T1-11 right on the studs:blink:


me too!!!
on a garden shed

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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> House wrap is a new thing:laughing: I've put on miles of the T1-11 right on the studs:blink:


in the 70's there was no house wrap...


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## Donohue Const (Dec 31, 2011)

but tar paper was around in the 70's..........

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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

Donohue Const said:


> but tar paper was around in the 70's..........
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


it still is.

used it on my addition.

i refuse to use "traditional housewrap"...

wrapping a building was not common in the 70's, tar paper or not.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Donohue Const said:


> me too!!!
> on a garden shed
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Come out here and you can buy one of those places I did for 6 to 800K:thumbsup: none of the older homer here have any house wrap or tar paper.


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## bilskro (Aug 11, 2016)

Donohue Const said:


> no house wrap?
> just covering all that moldy crappy gypsum sheeting up?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No one was as surprised as myself when I removed the T1-11 to see Sheetrock. Actually there was Housewrap before the sheetrock. I dont get it. 

Yes I could have added another layer of housewrap to the part of siding I replaced, but most of the siding I did not replace and on a lot of it I just cut out the bottom part so what would be the point.

In addition I plan to eventually add housewrap on top of the T1-11 and install hardi board siding as the siding looks crappy with Z Flashing 3' up. And yes the wood was rotted that high.

One of the biggest problems is the Tenants don't do a good job on yard maintenance and weeds had grown behind the T1-11 and destroys is.

Some updated photos


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## ibgreen (Jul 27, 2016)

In my neck of the woods, we just replace the bottom edge with a plywood strip, house wrap over all the vertical siding and then install corners and Smartside lap on top. Yes, it does change the look but cuts out most of the removal process.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

I wouldn't put more housewrap over the T1-11, if there is already a layer under the drywall. :no:

And drywall on the outside is common for fire protection in commercial and multi-family, where the structures are close together.

Although I've only installed it under the WRB. :thumbsup:


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## ibgreen (Jul 27, 2016)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> I wouldn't put more housewrap over the T1-11, if there is already a layer under the drywall. :no:
> 
> And drywall on the outside is common for fire protection in commercial and multi-family, where the structures are close together.
> 
> Although I've only installed it under the WRB. :thumbsup:


It is quite common here to have T1-11 with nothing but insulation behind it. The T1-11 is just treated as the sheathing.


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