# wrong 220 outlet



## Rock Headed (Nov 8, 2007)

So I have a newer oven, with a 4 pronged power cord. House has an older 3 pronged outlet.

So, cut off power at the breaker and replace the old outlet, no biggie.

The new over however is missing it's fourth, rounded, prong.

Option B....might sound stupid, but can I just take the power cord from the old oven and put in on the new oven?

OR, if I replace the outlet, does the missing fourth prong matter all that much?--it's just shock proof and wasn't required a couple decades ago.


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## rescraft (Nov 28, 2007)

Do the right thing, call an electrician. Your home insurer will thank you.


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

The solution should be in the oven manual.


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## TimberlineMD (Jan 15, 2008)

Four prong requires a neutral wire, which you would not have with a three.

Need a electrican.


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## Rock Headed (Nov 8, 2007)

Yea, one's on the way.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

No comment.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Rock Headed said:


> Yea, one's on the way.


Sounds like a good idea. On the back of every new range I've run across is a drawing showing how to place/remove the bonding jumper when going to 3-wire or 4-wire hookup.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Sounds like a good idea. On the back of every new range I've run across is a drawing showing how to place/remove the bonding jumper when going to 3-wire or 4-wire hookup.


https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+...hUE3SYKHYhOCn8Q9QEINzAG#imgrc=n28Tedh3aOo9iM:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I just had a 4 prong cord (dryer) replaced with a 3 prong cord to fit an existing receptacle. I made note of the fact that there's definitely a right and wrong (unsafe) way to do it. Don't wing it.


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## Rock Headed (Nov 8, 2007)

Oven works now. I removed the power cord from the old one, handed it to the electrician and he put it in. 

Yeah, I probably wouldn't have done anything catastrophic on my own...but 75$ and it's finished.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Don't blame us then. :whistling


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## Rock Headed (Nov 8, 2007)

Non sequitur much?

You have not offered any comment. Thus you have no ground to say "you didn't follow my advice, so don't blame me".

I did however follow the advice of others here and did hire a pro.


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

the neutral is for the controls, timer, lights, etc which are 110v. There is no neutral in a 220v circuit.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Irishslave said:


> There is no neutral in a 220v circuit.


Umm... :no:


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## ComRemodel (Jul 5, 2016)

*No neutral*

Yeah, he better stick to carpentry.

-Hal


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

BS Neutral and ground are bonded in the Service panel by means of a green screw unless it's a sub panel. Does your condensing unit have a neutral? No. Two hots and a ground. Water heater....same thing....two hots and a ground. Unless there is a 110 circuit internally in the appliance there is no need for a neutral..


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## Anti-wingnut (Mar 12, 2009)

Tinstaafl said:


> Umm... :no:


No, our Irish friend is correct. No neutral on a 220 circuit, but there is one on 220/110 volt circuits, of which the range probably is.


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

Anti-wingnut said:


> No, our Irish friend is correct. No neutral on a 220 circuit, but there is one on 220/110 volt circuits, of which the range probably is.


They love to bust my balls around here. Something about the Irish stereotype.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

neutral. mfrs cal it that. Code says on new builds 4 wire is required. Calls the middle leg neutral, and 4th is chassis ground.

I don't make the rules...


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

Now in Europe everything is 220v. It's also a different CPS. 50 instead of 60 I think. if you bring appliances from the USA, you'll need an adapter. What does that adapter do internally? I'll bet it adds a neutral. On that I could be wrong, but in theory that would make sense. What it does with the cycles I don't know


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