# VOTE--Which design is best?



## Tom Thomson (Feb 23, 2009)

Hello - I'm new here and hoping for a quick vote on one of the 5 beam designs in the attachments below. Would you tell me which beams you like best and why? Thanks--I've got to order materials and get these built soon!
Beam details:
--Beams will be used as rafters and ridge beam--main horizontal supports are large LVLs
--Beams are structural and exposed (under new porch entry roof)
--Roof is small with 12/12 pitch (80 sq. ft. total).
--Customer wants look of heavy timber--using site built 8" x 8" X 96" clad beams (cypress or cedar cladding)

Here's what I'm worried about: I don't want this beam to warp or twist due to hot, humid southern weather. (Exposure is NE, so not much direct sun.)

Take a look at the attached image below and let me know what you think. I sure would appreciate your input!


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

I like option 1. I believe it will be more stable, it is lighter weight, strong enough for intended use and should save you some $s.:thumbsup:


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## HitchC&L (Mar 7, 2008)

I agree.

It doesnt seem like it needs to be EXTREMELY strong. Option 3 would probably be the strongest of the 5, but I think that is so overkill that it is wasting money.

Option 1 seems to be strong enough for this application, just make sure you build it strong, to make damn sure theres no twisting to it, other than that, it seems like it will be plenty strong for a small porch roof


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## Tom Thomson (Feb 23, 2009)

Thanks for your insight. I appreciate your taking the time to answer!


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## silvertree (Jul 22, 2007)

Option 1


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

I like 2 or 3 because they look massive.


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## ScipioAfricanus (Sep 13, 2008)

#3 or #4, they be the goodn's IMO. Least amount of gluing surface. #1 is ridiculous. 

Andy.


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## jodytrop (Feb 3, 2009)

the last option all the way. I know it is a small roof, but the 4x4 has a greater possibility of twisting, and does not give you the lower deflection rate of the 2x8's. The plywood should be applied between the 2x8s and nailed 3x every 16"from both sides. Your costs will be similar, but headaches will be non existant.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

In my neck of the woods you can buy reclaimed lumber all over the place. it's not cheap but looking at the materials and time to make your beams I think that it may just be less expensive and more authentic to just get real 8x8 reclaimed stock.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

Tom Thomson said:


> Here's what I'm worried about: I don't want this beam to warp or twist due to hot, humid southern weather. (Exposure is NE, so not much direct sun.)
> 
> Take a look at the attached image below and let me know what you think. I sure would appreciate your input!


LVL beams are used mostly in protected environments, if you plan to use it externally ask your supplier or call manufacturer and ask them what would be the best LVL product for exposed exterior application, I used LVL beam on one house with fiber guard coating which is designed for moisture protection. They will advise you if your Architect did not specify on the plan. They have excellent customer service.

Good luck


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## nailkiller1 (Jan 15, 2009)

option 4 or if i am understandinding correctly option 6 with a solid board on bottom. when you look up you see a solid board or something balanced like option 4


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## irockwithdirt (Feb 5, 2009)

Can I ask a dumb question? If warping/ twisting is a concern and this is a small roof, is it really necessary to make a solid beam? Since this will be wrapped in cedar / cypress anyway, couldn't U just frame with whatever is necessary for your span/ spacing, then box with something stable like MDO plywood, then wrap? Maybe I'm wrong.


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## Kgmz (Feb 9, 2007)

They are all over kill except maybe number 1.

This is a roughly 8' x 10' porch from what you posted. Just to space things out, just use 3 2x6's and then clad the sides and bottom. I really don't see the point in using 2x8's or a LVL for something that is only 8' long.

Just reread your post. What are you using for cladding that is only half a inch thick?

Depending on what it is, this is where you will have problems with it being that thin. I have built beams like this and we use 5/4 wood to clad it, usually preprimed whitewood if it is to be painted. If it is to be stained then we use solid 8x8's.


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## BattleRidge (Feb 9, 2008)

using the lvl is way overkill. I would say just use reclaimed beams. They are all over craigslist here. If not option 2 is the most simple, your wrapping it either way so no point in making it complicated.


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## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

Option #2 w/poly and a good nail pattern. 

Gotta love reclaimed lumber. Just finished demo pulling out 24 old growth 6x12's rough cut (true dimension) 18' long owner sold them to a salvage company. They were used for bridge crane. The building was built back in 1929.


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## Donegal (Mar 10, 2009)

All are heavily overstructured. You aren't parking structures on this decking. I like #2 for it's simplicity. Add a good nailing pattern, glue and let er rip. You have grain going in enough different directions to avoid twisting.


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