# Professional Painters and Ingenuity doers alike!



## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

I am looking for some prep help for this steel siding. It is on my own home. I will be painting next spring and need to sand(120) and clean the steel. My problem lies in the texture of the siding. I used drywall sanding sponge which helped a lot to get into the low points of the grain texture. My home is a 2700 sq ft two story, so hand sanding the entire home is out of the question. Does anyone have any experience with this or can offer some ideas for quicker prep?








Thanks


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

Why are you sanding?


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

You're a GC and don't know any painters for advice? I have the same question what's up with the sanding?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Most steel sidings are covered with a coat of clear vinyl and should never be sanded.


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## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

Steel? Does he mean aluminum?


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

gbruzze1 said:


> Steel? Does he mean aluminum?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Looks like the same steel I've seen on a few houses. If I do recall is has a vinyl coating. Pressure wash, sticky primer, paint is probably the way to do it.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> I am looking for some prep help for this steel siding. It is on my own home. I will be painting next spring and need to sand(120) and clean the steel. My problem lies in the texture of the siding. I used drywall sanding sponge which helped a lot to get into the low points of the grain texture. My home is a 2700 sq ft two story, so hand sanding the entire home is out of the question. Does anyone have any experience with this or can offer some ideas for quicker prep?
> View attachment 233985
> 
> 
> Thanks


Let's see, carpenter replied, windows and doors replied, estimator replied...
You're a GC. Ask your painter... lol

Oh wait...a general contractor can mean anything in some states. Sorry.


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## gbruzze1 (Dec 17, 2008)

Golden view said:


> Looks like the same steel I've seen on a few houses. If I do recall is has a vinyl coating. Pressure wash, sticky primer, paint is probably the way to do it.



We don't have steel siding around here. Lots of aluminum still around though. Power wash, then cut the paint with 50% finish paint, 50% EB. Then finish coat with straight paint. Usually BM MoorGard. 


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

gbruzze1 said:


> Steel? Does he mean aluminum?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


No.... there are a few manufacturers still making vinyl clad steel siding. That looks to be the Rollex Designer Collection Product.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

Caslon said:


> Let's see, carpenter replied, windows and doors replied, estimator replied...
> You're a GC. Ask your painter... lol
> 
> Oh wait...a general contractor can mean anything in some states. Sorry.



And a painter replied but didn't actually say anything other than recap the thread. Now I understand why we all have to help the paint section here. 


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

slowsol said:


> And a painter replied but didn't actually say anything other than recap the thread. Now I understand why we all have to help the paint section here.


 Help? I offered help to the OP General Contractor asking about a painting issue. Ask your painter!

Which leaves you chiming in from your Iphone for nothing, Mr. Estimator/Preconstruction...whatever the hell that trade is.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

Use a magnet to confirm it is steel. Spray on a good quality cleaner such as TSP or Simple Green and power wash. 
If steel use a metal primer such as DTM primer. A bonding primer would also work or using multiputpose primer with Emulsabond added would also work. I suggest just using the DTM primer as it has rush inhibitors in it. 

If aluminum siding rust is not an issue so DTM primer not so neccessary. You can just add Emulsabond to first coat of paint if the surface is sound. 
Either way finish with an exterior latex house paint of your choice.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Ohio painter said:


> Use a magnet to confirm it is steel. Spray on a good quality cleaner such as TSP or Simple Green and power wash.
> If steel use a metal primer such as DTM primer. A bonding primer would also work or using multiputpose primer with Emulsabond added would also work. I suggest just using the DTM primer as it has rush inhibitors in it.
> 
> If aluminum siding rust is not an issue so DTM primer not so neccessary. You can just add Emulsabond to first coat of paint if the surface is sound.
> Either way finish with an exterior latex house paint of your choice.


Hey Ohio.... These steel sidings often have a 4 ml clear PVC coating on them. How well will this primer work over PVC?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

while that siding may show some rust at the field cuts tucked in the j and corners it is highly unlikely to rust at the face..


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Caslon said:


> Help? I offered help to the OP General Contractor asking about a painting issue. Ask your painter!
> 
> Which leaves you chiming in from your Iphone for nothing, Mr. Estimator/Preconstruction...whatever the hell that trade is.


Are you always a jackass, or do you just play one on the internet?


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

..well he is state licensed..:whistling


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

VinylHanger said:


> Are you always a jackass, or do you just play one on the internet?


He does cry like a girl and his avatar suggests one just beat him up!

You don't like this place then scram, I would think everyone is getting tired of your chit by now anyways...


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

It is steel. For all the condescending jacks, you could remove yourself if you have nothing to offer in a professional manner. As far as my GC experience which isn't in question here. I own an operate a remodeling company doing additions and remodels of all kinds. I have 8 years experience as a super for a local GC company. I have asked my painters and figured I would get other opinions also. Apparently my post read can," someone please condiscend me and question my abilities!"
I would like to thank the people who read between the lines and saw the question I was asking and cared enough to share a professional opinion. I am sanding because I am a carpenter and just assumed I should sand it for a better bond. After reading advice from some of you I will look into alternative methods. I didn't know some steel siding has a vinyl top coat. Figured it was just baked enamel . Thanks again to the helpful painting professionals who chimed in


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## Skyvorima (Nov 3, 2013)

To the OP:

Prepping now but not painting until spring is a huge waste of time.

When you are ready to paint get a garden pump sprayer and several gallons of white vinegar. Apply several times from the bottom up and let it dry. Then apply a zinc thick primer and the finish coat. If you are near the ocean do not use a zinc rich primer because salt air loves to snack it up.


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## Skyvorima (Nov 3, 2013)

Forgot to explain......white vinegar is a natural rust killer/inhibitor and works awesome. I just finished some metal windows that were installed in 1930 and they had that ornamental pain in the butt surface where getting to the finer areas would have been abusrdly time consuming with traditonal methods. 

Spraying the vinegar will not only clean the surface but also remove any chance of rust coming through for a good long many years.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

VinylHanger said:


> Are you always a jackass, or do you just play one on the internet?


What a great reply Potsie. Sure to help.
I play a state licensed painting contractor in real life. 
Here, I pretend you didn't make such a dufus jackass judgement to get reps.
Gracious of me...yes?


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Not prepping now skyvorima. Prepped a small area for some test colors. I'm in Iowa. Cold winter's but no salt water. Thanks for the tip. This vinegar is a no wipe application?


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Caslon said:


> What a great reply Potsie. Sure to help.
> I play a state licensed painting contractor in real life.
> Here, I pretend you didn't make such a dufus jackass judgement to get reps.
> Gracious of me...yes?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6p1Ck0ab80


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Professional Painters And Ingenuity Doers Alike!....

"I just dropped by....walk me thru it. I don't make my living painting, but walk me thru it if you kindly would".

Thanks. 

Sincerely...

...an Environmental Systems Control Technician.

If you wish to register here as such....that's a garbage man to you and me.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

HBH said:


> . Thanks for the tip. This vinegar is a no wipe application?


ask him^^^he's the douche


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Caslon said:


> Professional Painters And Ingenuity Doers Alike!....
> 
> "I just dropped by....walk me thru it. I don't make my living painting, but walk me thru it if you kindly would".
> 
> ...


What does this even mean?


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> What does this even mean?


My entire house needs re-wiring. I should head over to the Electricians forum and ask all Electricians how to do it myself.

After all, we are all one here...right? Pro to pro?


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

You're an asshat. Go troll you tube.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> You're an asshat. Go troll you tube.


Brilliant reply. Void of any consideration, but just brilliant.


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

This was never a "teach me how to do post". It was a simple question of sanding prep which after intelligent grown ups with a decent ability of reading comprehension replied to. I have found other avenues. You sir are a waste of breath. Good day to you.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH;3695529 You sir are a waste of breath. Good day to you.[/QUOTE said:


> Alright...fair enough.
> 
> It probably would have been more apropo if you said I was a waste of bandwidth.
> 
> ...


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Caslon said:


> Alright...fair enough.
> 
> It probably would have been more apropo if you said I was a waste of bandwidth.
> 
> That's probably what you meant. I can live with that.


Nope....meant what I said. Let me slow it down. The breath you suck in and out of your cake hole is shorting the fine people around you. I actually enjoy putting disrespectful children in their place. It's part of my job description really. Let the grown-ups talk now. Go back to whatever work you pretend to do. This is "Contractor Talk" not troll the professionals talk. Is this not what we do to grow as professionals? I have been a member on here before under a closed email account and always offered help to people seeking answers. Rather see them do it right that be the person who thinks they can only to screw it up. God forbid someone asks a question that's not approved by the Al-mighty Caslon. This has been fun though.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

To the OP, there are such a wide range of primers for various applications that I would consult a paint rep if one is available to you. 
If the steel has a PVC coating then I would stand by my prep and then consider one of the bonding primers. No sense putting a metal primer over a PVC coating.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> Nope....meant what I said. Let me slow it down. The breath you suck in and out of your cake hole is shorting the fine people around you. I actually enjoy putting disrespectful children in their place. It's part of my job description really. Let the grown-ups talk now. Go back to whatever work you pretend to do. This is "Contractor Talk" not troll the professionals talk. Is this not what we do to grow as professionals? I have been a member on here before under a closed email account and always offered help to people seeking answers. Rather see them do it right that be the person who thinks they can only to screw it up. God forbid someone asks a question that's not approved by the Al-mighty Caslon. This has been fun though.


I was doing painting contracting work while you were still in your dads balls. So much for your talking down to me.

I'm seeking help too. I want to rewire my entire house by myself. It's an old house with the polarity in some parts completely the opposite with the other half of the house. I'm not an electrician, but I want electricians to tell me how to do it...as a friendly gesture. Pro to Pro.

As such, I will be practically asking them which hand to blow my nose with...my right hand or my left?

(get lost).


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Caslon said:


> I was doing painting contracting work while you were still in your dads balls. So much for your talking down to me.
> 
> I'm seeking help too. I want to rewire my entire house by myself. It's an old house with the polarity in some parts completely the opposite with the other half of the house. I'm not an electrician, but I want electricians to tell me how to do it...as a friendly gesture. Pro to Pro.
> 
> ...


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> Caslon said:
> 
> 
> > I was doing painting contracting work while you were still in your dads balls. So much for your talking down to me.
> ...


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

The difference would be if you do electrical wrong, you burn your house down amd maybe kill someone.

There is no real danger if you paint wrong. I think you value your skills a bit too much.

Besides, my electrician buddies give me advice all the time, knowing I am not an electrician, amd when I get in over my head, they help out in person. That is what professionals do for each other.

Whining and belittling other Pros is what babies do.

Really not sure why you keep sticking around, unless you like like being a drama llama. It is entertaining though.


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Caslon said:


> I was doing painting contracting work while you were still in your dads balls. So much for your talking down to me.
> 
> (get lost).


I dont need to talk down to you to show your worth. You do a great job of that on your own opening your jelly whole. I will revert you back to my second post that if you don't have anything to contribute professionally you should just leave. The world has too many people like you. Although, this is highly entertaining to our fellow contractors to read you should probably do something positive with that wealth of painting knowledge. Here's a thought, respond with professionalism and respect when addressing people no matter where it is.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> I am looking for some prep help for this steel siding. It is on my own home.


A GC you are? Ever have painting contractors work for you? Why not ask them? Don't trust their advice? What did they say?


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

VinylHanger said:


> The difference would be if you do electrical wrong, you burn your house down amd maybe kill someone.
> 
> There is no real danger if you paint wrong. I think you value your skills a bit too much.
> 
> ...


Is this typical for this guy?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

HBH said:


> I'll ask my rep about this next week. My painter did yell at me for sanding. Lol. He's going to stop by next week too.


How old is the steel siding? I can't remember when the MFG's started coating with PVC, but it was several years ago. Very early steel had a propensity to rust like heck whenever the paint finish was damaged.

I know ALSIDE started PVC coating their steel in the early to mid '80's and I think Rollex did so as well, right about that same time. I know this because unfortunately, ALSIDE vinyl clad steel is on my house. It looks as good today, as the day it was installed in 1988. Unfortunately, I hate the color, but I can't bring myself to change it. I sold the Rollex product back in the mid '90's when I was on the wholesale side of the business and it was all PVC coated back then IIRC.

If I were you, I would try and find out exactly what product you have on your house. That will go a long way in determining what kind of prep and primer will work best and give you the longest lasting paint finish.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> I am looking for some prep help for this steel siding. It is on my own home. I will be painting next spring and need to sand(120) and clean the steel. My problem lies in the texture of the siding. I used drywall sanding sponge which helped a lot to get into the low points of the grain texture. My home is a 2700 sq ft two story, so hand sanding the entire home is out of the question. Does anyone have any experience with this or can offer some ideas for quicker prep?
> View attachment 233985
> 
> 
> Thanks


A good high pressure washing puts microscopic scratch marks on the surface that you can't see but provides "tooth" for the finish coat. No wimpy pressure washer either...2000-3000 psi with enough gallons per minute so that you don't spend all day on it.


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## Skyvorima (Nov 3, 2013)

Caslon said:


> A good high pressure washing puts microscopic scratch marks on the surface that you can't see but provides "tooth" for the finish coat. No wimpy pressure washer either...2000-3000 psi with enough gallons per minute so that you don't spend all day on it.


Why would you purposefully create an environment for rust to grow exponentially? Even if you galvanized shortly after it makes no sense to needlessly create tiny pit marks when there is no shortage of metal primers that will bond without any damage being done to the surface of the metal.


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

Caslon said:


> A good high pressure washing puts microscopic scratch marks on the surface that you can't see but provides "tooth" for the finish coat. No wimpy pressure washer either...2000-3000 psi with enough gallons per minute so that you don't spend all day on it.


With all due respect, I'm surprised you would offer such advice. Ask any pro washer about risk vs. reward when it comes to shooting siding at 2k-3kpsi. Although I don't have a solution to his problem without knowing the exact siding he has, I CAN say with certainty that he'd be much better off keeping the pressure well below 1,500psi and downstreaming the proper mix of chems with the wash.


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

I talked to my Sherwin rep on Monday. Haven't had a moment to post his thoughts.
He recommended a chemical wash with low psi. Possible the need of a scrub brush to remove all chalky residue that has accumulated.
Next step was to prime with a product that we could research for when spring hits.
Finally paint with a acrylic latex ext paint. (2coats)
I want to thank everyone who has helped me out. If you have anything useful to add please feel free.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

not a painter but as a sider never high pressure wash,you will force water into places you don't want it


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Tom Struble said:


> not a painter but as a sider never high pressure wash,you will force water into places you don't want it


Tom, I would agree with you on this statement hi psi is never a good thing for an exterior of a home. 2000-3000 psi? For concrete cleaning is about it.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

HBH said:


> I am looking for some prep help for this steel siding. It is on my own home. I will be painting next spring and need to sand(120) and clean the steel. My problem lies in the texture of the siding. I used drywall sanding sponge which helped a lot to get into the low points of the grain texture. My home is a 2700 sq ft two story, so hand sanding the entire home is out of the question. Does anyone have any experience with this or can offer some ideas for quicker prep?
> View attachment 233985
> 
> 
> Thanks


Galvanized steel siding? Not aluminum like most metal siding is???
Yes, you can prime it all, but if the majority of your siding is in as good a shape as in that pic you posted...you could get away with pressure washing to scratch it up, then final coat it. You asked how to better prepare the surface rather than hand sanding it all to provide a good surface. Regardless of if you prime first or not (which is a good idea)...a good pressure washing will remove dirt and grime and chalking as well as scratch up the surface for WHATEVER paint goes on afterwards.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

stelzerpainting said:


> With all due respect, I'm surprised you would offer such advice. Ask any pro washer about risk vs. reward when it comes to shooting siding at 2k-3kpsi. Although I don't have a solution to his problem without knowing the exact siding he has, I CAN say with certainty that he'd be much better off keeping the pressure well below 1,500psi and downstreaming the proper mix of chems with the wash.


With higher pressure, you don't have to hold the wand tip close to the siding and go inch by inch. Can anyone grasp that? I didn't recommend using that high a pressure washer and holding the wand tip an inch away from the surface. :whistling 

Higher pressure and especially higher gallons per minute is what would make the pressure washing go faster without necessarily cutting thru the paint film.

With a 2000 - 3000 psi pressure washer, I'm sure as hell not gonna dial it down to 1500 psi because it might do too good a job. With that much water pressure, it just means I'll complete the pressure washing faster.


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Caslon said:


> as well as scratch up the surface for WHATEVER paint goes on afterwards.


There are a couple problems with power washing. If it's going to scratch the siding, I would be intentionally removing a protective layer from the siding (not completely). This was why my sub yelled at me for sanding the siding for my test areas. He asked me if I "would cut up my tar paper before I laid shingles down" never really thought of it that way before. 
The second problem is you, at some point, will unintentionally spray in a manner that forces water behind the siding. In my case I have fanfold behind my siding and wood lap behind that. Most likely the wood lap was in need of painting when it was sided. If i spray water that gets to that old lap siding the potential of mold growth is pretty high with it being behind the other two layers of protection. Why risk it? Why put a clients family in potential harm? or in my my case my own family. A garden hose is a close replica to rain water, a little elbow grease with a chem wash. Faster isn't always the right way. It is a way, but it has consequences.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Caslon said:


> *Galvanized steel siding? Not aluminum like most metal siding is???*
> Yes, you can prime it all, but if the majority of your siding is in as good a shape as in that pic you posted...*you could get away with pressure washing to scratch it up, then final coat it.* You asked how to better prepare the surface rather than hand sanding it all to provide a good surface. Regardless of if you prime first or not (which is a good idea)...a good pressure washing will remove dirt and grime and chalking as well as scratch up the surface for WHATEVER paint goes on afterwards.


Did you not actually READ the original post before going on your rampage? The OP CLEARLY states that it was STEEL siding. And while your first post disparaged my reply as one from a "Window and Door" guy responding to a siding thread, as if I was some sort of pariah or something.

You may be the greatest "state licensed" painter on the planet.... but you are totally clueless when it comes to dealing with steel siding and it's application on a structure. 

You advocate scratching the surface with tons of ultra high pressure water. I'll give you a little hint.... you don't WANT to scratch the surface of steel. That surface has been protected by a Kynar or PVC coating to PROTECT the steel. It's there for a reason.

Maybe you're just an old fart like me stuck in his way of doing things. I'm fine with that. But, in THIS particular case, you are totally wrong. I don't care what kind of primer/paint you use.... but if you scratch up the protective coating on that steel siding, you will be dooming the OP to a rusty house five or ten years down the road when your precious paint/primer starts to fail.

Go back to what you know and leave the steel siding to those of us who are experienced with it. Things tend to work better that way....


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Microscopic water spray....you dorks. Who said anything about cutting thru layers of paint by pressure washing? Throw me a bone here, people.

NO! NO harsh pressure washing !!!! GENTLE PRESSURE WASHING... Is that your reply, whoever?

Get back to me here when you do painting as your main trade. Not deck guys, not roofing guys, not jack of all get out trade guys...rather... painting guys. I pressure washed metal siding, top coated sprayed it and 8 years later the siding still looks good. According to you "painting pros"...it should be a total fail. I've done metal siding painting many times with absolute complete success. Was little 'ole me just lucky?

Speak from painting experience as your living...like 30 years worth, not out your ass.

A 2000 psi pressure washing on metal siding prior to painting. Let's all get absolutely anal retentive about that for god knows whatever reason. This topic is beginning to bore me.

When I get bored, don't expect me to follow up.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Caslon said:


> Microscopic water spray....you dorks. Who said anything about cutting thru layers of paint by pressure washing? Throw me a bone here, people.


Like micro abrasion? (lastest greatest catchy technical term being thrown around). Basically a form of mechanical "scuffing" through proper distance and water pressure, right?


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## HBH (Oct 17, 2015)

Caslon said:


> A good high pressure washing puts microscopic scratch marks on the surface that you can't see but provides "tooth" for the finish coat. No wimpy pressure washer either...2000-3000 psi with enough gallons per minute so that you don't spend all day on it.



If someone reads this thread in the future I would want them to not do this. From what I've heard from several valuable sources is that you DO NOT want to damage the protective coating in any way. Providing tooth is damaging the finish. Your siding paint may have held for 8 years but what will it look like in 15,20, or even thirty years. Who knows maybe it will be perfect. Maybe it'll be rusty. I would personally not chance it. Take the time and prep to the best you can.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Caslon said:


> Microscopic water spray....you dorks. Who said anything about cutting thru layers of paint by pressure washing? Throw me a bone here, people.
> 
> NO! NO harsh pressure washing !!!! GENTLE PRESSURE WASHING... Is that your reply, whoever?
> 
> ...


I'm from the decking threads and I'm here to help. :laughing:


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Caslon said:


> Microscopic water spray....you dorks. Who said anything about cutting thru layers of paint by pressure washing? Throw me a bone here, people.
> 
> *Well, you've now lowered yourself to calling other professionals names, I'll stay on the high road and not resort to such childish endeavors.*
> 
> ...


....


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Caslon said:


> Microscopic water spray....you dorks. Who said anything about cutting thru layers of paint by pressure washing? Throw me a bone here, people.
> 
> NO! NO harsh pressure washing !!!! GENTLE PRESSURE WASHING... Is that your reply, whoever?
> 
> ...


30 years of inhaling VOCs. Now it makes sense.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

EricBrancard said:


> 30 years of inhaling VOCs. Now it makes sense.


:laughing:


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## Jmayspaint (Apr 20, 2014)

It seems like high pressure washing as prep on exterior siding, and other exterior surfaces for that matter, is falling out of favor in both the pro community and with material manufacturers. 

I've certainly blasted many houses in the past and am not aware of any problems arising from that. Though I have seen plenty of damaged wood from overzealous pressure washing, if you know how to do it that doesn't have to happen. 

Most of the larger outfits, and many smaller ones I know now have switched to soft washing. We started subbing all washing to a soft wash company about two years ago. Mostly because of changes in coatings preparation specs. Gotta admit, at first I was skeptical that it could do the job as well as pressure washing in some cases, but I've been pleasantly surprised at its effectiveness. 

Now that I've seen it in action, it makes sense to utilize chemicals and low pressure to take care of preparation needs rather than high pressure water. And with down streaming, it's certainly a heck of a lot easier/faster to do. 

As far as removing oxidation (chalk), scrubbing has always seemed way more effective to me than blasting.


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## avenge (Sep 25, 2008)

I've never used high pressure washing on any type of siding. I use chemicals and a rinse, I could use a freakin garden hose if I wanted to. When I'm washing siding I'm looking for GPM not PSI.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Californiadecks said:


> I'm from the decking threads and I'm here to help. :laughing:


:laughing:


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Texas Wax said:


> Like micro abrasion? (lastest greatest catchy technical term being thrown around). Basically a form of mechanical "scuffing" through proper distance and water pressure, right?


Finally someone who gets it. Micro abrasion. Thanks.
Others had me practically gouging the paint film down to the bare metal, lol. I even said at a "microscopic level" yet other relpliers STILL had me practically sandblasting the paint off the siding. Wow.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

that's goofy,,it's already ''micro abraded '' by weathering


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

Huh? I suppose nothing else affixes itself to exterior siding.
Micro abrasions are a good thing, so is taking off dirt, grime and other surface contaminants at the same time. He can gently scrub clean it all by hand if he wants. That'll do just fine too!


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## Dan_Watson (Mar 1, 2008)

Can someone drag Killer out of the deck forum to help here. I think he can be very useful.


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