# Concrete countertops



## FireballBrick (Oct 14, 2005)

That show on the DIY channel, Rock Solid, has given us a wonderful idea....maybe:cheesygri They showed a concrete countertop "factory" and man, this stuff looks simple to do!!! We are gonna try some simple ones out, maybe try to make some for our kitchen and see how they come out. We do a lot of outdoor kitchens, and man, this would be a killer alternative to having to sub out to a countertop guy!!!! Anyone have any experience with this stuff or helpful pointers??? 
Thanks!!!
Adrienne


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

I dont watch that show so I didnt see it. Not too many people up here do the outdoor kitchen thing either. Kind of sucks because I like the artistic side to masonry and would really love to design and build a nice one.


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## FireballBrick (Oct 14, 2005)

where is up here six???


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## jvcstone (Apr 4, 2005)

Concrete counters tops are one of the designer raves rightnow, along with soapstone, as an alternative to granite. The one thing you need to know about the concrete tops is that they need to be well sealed because they absorb liquid like a sponge, and cement products tend to acid etch much the same as marble or limestone used in the same situation.
JVC


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## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Green Bay, WI


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## FireballBrick (Oct 14, 2005)

John, What do you think about at epoxy sealer? On DIY, they just sealed theirs with beeswax....didn't sound like much protection to me....


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

I've seen a few in kitchens. They look really sharp. They can finish them to look almost like a granite product too. I was interested in this a while back, and ordered this book to read... http://www.edwardrhamilton.com/titles/2/0/5/205521x.html I think it is the only "how to" book on concrete countertops. At least it's the only one I could find.


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## jvcstone (Apr 4, 2005)

I'm not familiar with any epoxy sealers-- sound like a topical coating to me.
I think that a good penetrating impregnator, and multiple applications would be the way to go. Any material that is a topical coating will in the long run lead to it's own set of problems. For instance, one should be able to set a hot pan onto the concrete surface without problems, but a coating of epoxy, or polyurethane, would most likely melt.
JVC


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## FireballBrick (Oct 14, 2005)

> I'm not familiar with any epoxy sealers-- sound like a topical coating to me.
> I think that a good penetrating impregnator, and multiple applications would be the way to go.


Gotcha..... I wonder what you can use that won't be harmful to your health in a kitchen.....research to insue....


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Here's the best book i know. From what I understand they are not as easy as people think, and it takes a meticulous, detail oriented patient, person to do be successful as a business.


http://www.concreteexchange.com/index.jsp

www.concretenetwork.com is an excellent place to learn about all things concrete

regards
Tim


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I semi-watched the process on TOH. They formed it in place (an island as I remember) and it's not as easy as just dumping concrete into a mold. I do remember that they ground and polished the surface and edges and made a TON of dust. I can only imagine how long the tools must last. 

I decided early on that it was one of those projects that I was never going to personally take on and pretty much tuned out. As I remember, it was about $35-45 psf and I can do a lot of other surfaces for just a little bit more or less $.


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## FireballBrick (Oct 14, 2005)

The pour in place method does look like a pita, but turns out the actual mold, cure, then place method isn't too hard so far....the molds come apart tomorrow.... I'll let ya'll know...
Adrienne


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## 20Two (May 14, 2005)

I have Cheng's book and was gonna give it a try in my own house when I redid the kitchen a couple years back. In the end I balanced the amount of dust and unfamiliarity with the process against tiling, and decided to stay in my comfort zone (slate tile). In the next few months I'm going to finish my tiki bar and I may reopen Chengs book and give it a whirl - I'll keep you posted.


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## Bazooka Joe (Jan 5, 2006)

FireballBrick said:


> The pour in place method does look like a pita, but turns out the actual mold, cure, then place method isn't too hard so far....the molds come apart tomorrow.... I'll let ya'll know...
> Adrienne


......VERY interested in hearing how that turned out, please let us know

thanks


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## Oregon_Rob (Dec 31, 2005)

I saw a demo at a decorative concrete expo. It's not rocket science. you do have to use diamond wheels for polishing, but they did it wet, no dust.


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## bmartin (Dec 30, 2005)

I will be doing the concrete counters in my Kitchen and on the deck surrounding my whirlpool. I have done a couple small tops for my shop and although they take a little time they look nice when finished. I think I'm going to pour grey then acid stain the top for the color. I used a couple coats of penetrating sealer on top and will be applying some beeswax to it as soon as I get the time. Both tops were precast (1 upside down on melamine).


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## North Star (Mar 3, 2005)

You folks that have done thse countertops, or planning on doing these countertops, how do y'all plan on putting the bevel on the edge? I would really like to give this a try in an outdoor kitchen I am doing for a customer and I am just starting to do the research. It seems pretty cut and dried but the edge thing has me a little concerned. I am good with a grinder but not nearly good enough to bevel an edge. The "squareness" of the edge is a little to much of an unskilled look for a patio and kitchen that folks are spending $25k on.


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## bmartin (Dec 30, 2005)

When cast upside down I used plasticine clay for the bevel. If it is a trowel finish (poured in place) you can use a concrete edger. Also you can make a full bullnose with plastic pipe by ripping on a table saw if thats what you want.


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## juniorchilli (Jan 27, 2006)

I wish I had known about this forum 6 mo. ago. this is my first post so be patient. I poured my first concrete counters, they were very cost effective and we love the look. I poured them in place and beveled the edge with concrete tool while wet. I sealed them with a tile sealer( three coats). These are in my kitchen. The only problem was a crack across one of the tops. I think maybe I poured too thin. I used wire mesh reinforsment also. Do any of you guys know what type of mix or mud would work best on my next try. I do intend to do this on another top.


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## bmartin (Dec 30, 2005)

I've used the quikcrete 5000 psi sack mix. You can also use non shrink high strength grout. The quikcrete is about 1/4 the cost.


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