# Drywall Over Plaster Lath



## oldhouses (Mar 26, 2012)

Tinstaafl said:


> Yes, and without issue. However, those I've done didn't have the strapping hdavis refers to. Probably a regional thing.


I don't understand what strapping hdavis is referring to?


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

I thought most strapping codes were not enacted until after the development of sheetrock. I could be wrong.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

oldhouses said:


> I don't understand what strapping hdavis is referring to?


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Basically, furring strips run perpendicular to the joists, in order to even out any irregularities. You must not have been a drywaller for very long?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

oldhouses said:


> I don't understand what strapping hdavis is referring to?


Houses around here from the early 1800s and earlier used tree trunks hewn more or less flat on two sides for the ceiling joists. Sawed strapping was then run perpendicular, and any adjustments for leveling the ceiling were just an adze swing away at the attachment points. When sawed beams for joists came into use, strapping was still used. I don't know if it was for leveling or getting the correct spacing for the lath or both, or maybe just doing it the way it was always done. This continued at least until 1890 in these parts (Maine, with plenty of saw mills close by at the time). I don't know about newer plaster and lath, I haven't worked on any. It makes sense that this practice would stop at some point.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

I am with the guys that say, just go with the drywall, no strapping needed.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I am with the guys that say, just go with the drywall, no strapping needed.


No strapping means no shimming. I gather from everything that's been said that the lath was nailed straight to the ceiling joists on this building. If that's the case, the previously mentioned metal hat channel is a good route that's shimmable.

On the other hand, a 16' span on a full sized 2X4 is beyond what would be allowed today. Safest on this ceiling is to fame lower than the current 12'. Next safest this is to do a plaster repair using lightweight.


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## maineuropa (Sep 27, 2008)

Point of clarity here: west of the middle of the US: generally they do not strap a ceiling prior to sheetrock. Out here in the East we usually do. 
I am still, like I suspect the others, curious as to why the old ceiling plaster and lathe cannot come down. Is there vermiculite in the ceiling as insulation? Or is the HO expecting you to do the job without removing furniture?


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

You say your worried about lead and asbestoes, what you think there isn't going to be dust when you hang drywall into that ceiling and your driving screws, causing the paint to chip and crack from the plaster, why not prep room for lead using plastic like you should mask everything off, do your prep of the plaster, repair were it's needed, seal with primer ready for paint clean the room up. done deal:thumbsup:
Well lookin at it this way you posted this two days ago I would have had the room preped out and repairs done I would be lookin at painting the room out starting tomorrow. your still figurin out how to do the job.


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## oldhouses (Mar 26, 2012)

[Well lookin at it this way you posted this two days ago I would have had the room preped out and repairs done I would be lookin at painting the room out starting tomorrow. your still figurin out how to do the job.[/QUOTE]

Just looking for new ideas..... I'm pretty new to the business amd trying to learn as much as I can from the pros.... 

Just to let you know, we can't all be superstars....


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

Aint said anything about Superstars, I've slingged mud for many years and standin around talkin about it, don't get the ceiling done that's all son!
I would say you need to find someone who has done plastering and see if you can go on a few jobs, you'd be surprize at what you can learn Good Luck!
I noticed you don't have a city or State where your from?


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

hdavis said:


> No strapping means no shimming. I gather from everything that's been said that the lath was nailed straight to the ceiling joists on this building. If that's the case, the previously mentioned metal hat channel is a good route that's shimmable.
> 
> On the other hand, a 16' span on a full sized 2X4 is beyond what would be allowed today. Safest on this ceiling is to fame lower than the current 12'. Next safest this is to do a plaster repair using lightweight.


The only reason for strapping is if the ceiling is wavy or really out of level. If it's not, then there is no real need to strap and shim. That was my point. I would 1/2" right on top of the old plaster and build up any areas that needed it.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> The only reason for strapping is if the ceiling is wavy or really out of level. If it's not, then there is no real need to strap and shim. That was my point. I would 1/2" right on top of the old plaster and build up any areas that needed it.


Agreed, if it's flat, it isn't a problem to skip strap and shimming. On the other hand, if it's flat and just has cracks, crack repair and skim would be a piece of cake.


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## oldhouses (Mar 26, 2012)

Going right over the old plaster ceiling with 1/2 inch rock would be ideal for me, but it's the weight issue on the full size 2x4 framing in a 9x16 room and 15x15 room next to it I was thinking about.


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## oldhouses (Mar 26, 2012)

Hello all again,

I really do appreciate all the your input.... After speaking with the HO again, he is requesting that the ceiling be dropped. He would prefer lower ceilings to help with his heating cost here in the north east. So, here is the plan:
9x16 room = drop ceiling to 10 ft using 9ft 2x4 metal studs 16oc and channel securing the the studs to original full size 2x4 framing every 3 ft. with insulation/VB and 1/2 lightweight sheetrock...

15x15 room = drop ceiling to 10 ft. using 15ft. 2x6 metal studs 16oc and channel securing studs to original full size 2x4 framing every 4ft with insulation/VB and 1/2 lightweight sheetrock.

My thinking is most of the weight will be loaded on the walls with extra support from original 2x4 structure....
PS. the original plaster lath ceiling will be strapped with 1x3 to hold it in place....

So, what do you think????


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## iDAHOchris (Feb 11, 2012)

Frankawitz said:


> This always gets me drywallers trying to fix plaster
> Why not take the time to learn how to fix the plaster instead of tearing it out or covering it up. Oh yeah I know if takes to long and costs to much,!


 Drywall was invented. No need for plasterwalls


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

drywall and plaster two different skills two different products, the reason drywall was invented was to make wall construction faster and simpler
not much talent in tape & mud:laughing:

Old houses,
If the plaster doesn't show any pulling away from lath leave it, Don't put boards into it. now if the keys are broken on the plaster and you have what look like big bumps remove them don't take a chance the weight of plaster is alot more then people think, I had a customer who's landlord came in and instead of fixing the plaster he had it covered up with drop ceiling, well the custmer was getting dinner ready for him and his 14 month old son, his son was in the den in the playpen. well Dad came in picked up his son walked back to the kitchen to have dinner and the ceiling in the den came crashing down and smashed the playpen. and the landlord had the ceiling done only 4 months earlier and this house was only 76 years old. Like they say "It's better to leave old dogs lie" maybe the best way of dealing with the plaster ceiling. Just run your drop ceiling grid off the walls, you should be good.


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

oldhouses said:


> 15x15 room = drop ceiling to 10 ft. using 15ft. 2x6 metal studs 16oc and channel securing studs to original full size 2x4 framing every 4ft with insulation/VB and 1/2 lightweight sheetrock.
> 
> So, what do you think????


I think 3-5/8'' studs will work in this room as well. Stiffbacks at 5' spacing attached up to original 2x4 trusses.

All sounds good to me.:thumbsup:


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## oldhouses (Mar 26, 2012)

Thanks to all, for all the great advise..... :thumbup:


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