# framing a modified pyramid roof without trusses



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

hey guys. I've been at this stuff for 28 years and never came across this one before. Customer wants an 8x8 backyard shed built, one of the 4 corners cut off at the 4' mark on 2 sides to make an 8x8x4x4x5'8" pentagon. The fifth side will have a mandoor and a pitched roof going into a pyramid roof. No problem but she wants a beamed ceiling, like no trusses - I'm not talking a finished ceiling, just the 2x4s showing under the sheathing. This is a regular 2x4 frame job on concrete slab but I think she wants to hang deer in there or something, so its gotta be strong. Any ideas?


----------



## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

i'm not real sure, but divide by 2, multiply by 7.412226 (maybe 7), then (the most important part), divide by your neighbor's, grandmother's, nephew's, parakeets's, anal diameter...and you will find your answer....+/- 10%


----------



## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

...sorry, i left out the part about the solar eclipsa, black hola thinga ma jig...

j


----------



## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

...it really does work, i promise you


----------



## Bill (Mar 30, 2006)

can you post a sketch? Im kinda lost, but with some kind of sketch I may be able to help


----------



## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

i did...they keep deletin' it...so much for the advancement of mankind...


----------



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

I don't CAD small stuff like this, USP45, but here's a sketch of the roof layout, with small elev views inset. Thanks.


----------



## J F (Dec 3, 2005)

You may want to try the framing forum on jlc too:

http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11

they've got a lot of people who really know their stuff as well.

J

There, I'm not _just_ a smarta$$ now


----------



## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

First beef up the rafters from 2x4, I would think you will have to get some kind of collar ties or extra support in there to prevent speading the walls. 

The corners where your hip rafters come down will probably hold up well, maybe some straps to keep them from moving and if the hips are strong enoght they will keep the peak from droping.
We've used threaded rod with turnbuckles and plates on the ends as alternatives to wood. 

A steeper pitch for the hip roof (pyramid) would give you extra height to put collar ties in higher up for hanging from. You would not have to bring the gable (pitched) ridge up to the height of the peak of the hip ,although the roofing detail would be a little more work. 

I was waiting for the drawing too.


----------



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

Thanks, AFrame, sounds like some solid advice.

You too, JF. For awhile there I was wondering if Georgia had gotten around to banning lead in plumbing solder yet ... )


----------



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

Hey guys, I just realized I didn't follow up on this one. Sorry. Attached are a couple of pics I took while the framing job was coming together. I ended up using a simple 1/3 raised center bay 2x4 truss with two monos forming the center structure onto which the four 2x6 diagonal rafters are fixed, with child rafters off the diagonals. This roof is strong as hell and real easy to build. The headroom in the shed is 8'8" in the center with a total shed height of 10'4".


----------



## Mike B (Sep 7, 2007)

Looks real good. Make sure to post pictures of the finished product.:thumbup:


----------



## woodchuck2 (Feb 27, 2008)

I hope your charging time/materials on this one. The walls will give out before the roof does.


----------



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

woodchuck2 said:


> I hope your charging time/materials on this one. The walls will give out before the roof does.


Yeah, thought of that too, woodchuck, especially since this shed sits in a damp corner with only evening sun. I did the sole plate in PT lumber and put in triple jacks at load points. The whole thing is sheathed in outdoor grade 1/2" plywood then wrapped, vinyl siding at the back, red cedar in front. Soffit vents all around, gutters, sealed windows and steel door. This shed will be high and dry. I would have preferred something more durable than asphalt shingles on the roof because of the spruce trees overhanging the thing but that's what the customer wanted, to match what is on her house. If the shingles get changed every 25 years or so I figure the shed will be around for awhile. Better be, because you're right that it was not a cheap job, although I did not go T&M. $2400 for materials, probably 50 billable hours. I charged $5000, so she got a good deal.

Next time I'm back in the area I'll see about getting a picture although I'm making hay while the sun is shining these days, if you know what I mean.


----------



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

*finished shed*

Got back to the customer's place and took a pic of the finished product.


----------



## kjung (Jul 21, 2008)

I was waiting to see the finished product on this one. Looks great :thumbsup:


----------



## DavidC (Feb 16, 2008)

That is just to nice to hang deer in. Great job.

Good Luck
Dave


----------



## purplethumb (Jul 10, 2008)

Yeah, too nice for deer, but the customer is always right, right?


----------



## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

DavidC said:


> That is just to nice to hang deer in. Great job.
> 
> Good Luck
> Dave


 
Around here we shoot the deer, hanging is just inhumane, it's quieter but...they take so much longer to die. :laughing:

Real nice looking job Purple. :thumbsup:


----------



## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

I'll take 2. looks great

If they do use it for deer, operable windows would of been a plus


----------

