# Festool fan club thread



## CarpenterSFO

skillman said:


> That's just crazy for that . I can buy a lot of dew with that . . At least drink 3 12 oz bottles a day.


3 12 oz bottles a day? Maybe you want to check out our sister site, DIYChatroom.com


----------



## skillman

CarpenterSFO said:


> 3 12 oz bottles a day? Maybe you want to check out our sister site, DIYChatroom.com


Nah . . I like the cat fights over here better . Just straight business .


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I am counting the ts-75 in that price too. 

You can't take the motor an blade out of your portable table saw and use it on a rail to cut something else. There is a sliding table for cross cuts, you can turn it into a router table, the dust collection will let you use that right in the room you are working in too. 

You get a lot of extra's besides a way to make boards smaller.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

...


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I am counting the ts-75 in that price too.
> 
> You can't take the motor an blade out of your portable table saw and use it on a rail to cut something else. There is a sliding table for cross cuts, you can turn it into a router table, the dust collection will let you use that right in the room you are working in too.
> 
> You get a lot of extra's besides a way to make boards smaller.


Talk is cheap:jester: Where's the video:whistling
Let's get this thread moving!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I had to order from the UK as the people over here who are selling them want around $1500 with shipping for the parts. Which ain't to bad seeings they had the hassle of brining them over here. I had Familey bring them which run me about $1200 in total. 

Cost depends on how your already setup. If you use all it's features your looking at about $4800. But if you have the tools already then cost is half that. Only down side is it will require a dedicated vac like the Kapex. 

It def ain't cheap but what other company others something even near to how this setup functions. As Darcy says it can be setup in a room with no hassles of dust like a normal table saw. Even with my shop dust collector on my Bosch it still kicked out unreal amounts of dust. This saw will also be my dedicated shop saw when I need in in my workshop. Reason being is it can hang on a wall out the way when it's not in use and free up a massive area of floor space just like the MFT's can.


Here's a pic of the dust that come from my Kapex after a day of trim. I swept up the dust into a pile just to show how well it works. I would have this much on the floor from my Bosch axial glide after just a couple of cuts let alone a whole day. 













Perhaps when it stops raining here I will get to use it.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

BCConstruction said:


> Here's a pic of the dust that come from my Kapex after a day of trim. I swept up the dust into a pile just to show how well it works. I would have this much on the floor from my Bosch axial glide after just a couple of cuts let alone a whole day.


Dust collection with these tools is ridiculously good. There are some cuts, for example trimming less than a blade's worth of anything with the track saw, where the dust collection doesn't do anything, and you get a cloud of dust that the vacs don't pick up. Something I've learned to be aware of.


----------



## chris klee

compound miters on the kapex will make more dust also, but it usually just sits on the saw/ mft so its easy to vac up real quick. i always put a drop cloth down first so i can just vac up the saw and table real quick and roll up the drop. 
after having the mft and ts55 i quickly found i dont need a big table saw on site.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yeah some cuts don't do much for dust extraction I have seen some methods to help this but for the few times I make them cuts I'm fine with it. 

Got it in the trailer it's dam tight but it went in. Crazy thing is its as light as my Bosch even with the saw installed.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I would like to have the CMS for the saw, but I can buy about 10k pounds of machinery for that.:laughing:

I have my rips done when I leave the shop and anymore I can tune something up with a hand plane, power plane, my ras115 or with just my ts-55r. 

Someday I will get one. Just the DC would be worth it to me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I would like to have the CMS for the saw, but I can buy about 10k pounds of machinery for that.:laughing:
> 
> I have my rips done when I leave the shop and anymore I can tune something up with a hand plane, power plane, my ras115 or with just my ts-55r.
> 
> Someday I will get one. Just the DC would be worth it to me.


Trust me if I had the room I would want some bigger machines like yours for sure. Until I get our next house I'm stuck with a shed as a workshop lol

If I couldn't have got the saw insert I def wouldn't have bought it. I don't do enough routing to justify it as just a router table. Shame there's no US availability. Well there is but it's expensive.


----------



## Eric K

Bc, do you rob banks on the side?


----------



## tjbnwi

Eric K said:


> Bc, do you rob banks on the side?


I think he robs banks for a living, construction is his side gig

Tom


----------



## TimelessQuality

He married well.... Really well


----------



## CarpenterSFO

chris klee said:


> after having the mft and ts55 i quickly found i dont need a big table saw on site.


A curious side effect of this is an improvement of some of my measuring and planning. There's still some stuff - jamb extensions, odd floor boards, and the like, that still gets done best on the table saw. Those items now get measured much more carefully on site, made exactly to spec in the shop, then taken to the site for installation next day.


----------



## chris klee

CarpenterSFO said:


> A curious side effect of this is an improvement of some of my measuring and planning. There's still some stuff - jamb extensions, odd floor boards, and the like, that still gets done best on the table saw. Those items now get measured much more carefully on site, made exactly to spec in the shop, then taken to the site for installation next day.


exactly. There will always be a need for a small table saw on site.
i did a house a little over a year ago where i had to make extension jambs for the all the windows. i made them all in the living room and pre-fabed them all with the stool and casing. 
then i thought if i measured and labeled them i could do that i the shop even. 
it opens up a whole new world.


----------



## Eric K

TimelessQuality said:


> He married well.... Really well


Where do you find those wives? I want one. Mine would have me living in the trailer with that $4800 table saw


----------



## chris klee

Eric K said:


> Where do you find those wives? I want one. Mine would have me living in the trailer with that $4800 table saw


this is why my company money stays in that account and is none of my wife's business. i pay myself what i need to pay bills and thats all she needs to even know about.


----------



## SDel Prete

chris klee said:


> this is why my company money stays in that account and is none of my wife's business. i pay myself what i need to pay bills and thats all she needs to even know about.


My wife often goes. " who paid for those new tools." I simply say my customers and she's fine with that. She's on payroll for spending cash, and to buy groceries ect and is happy with that. Hope she doesn't ask for a raise lol.


----------



## mbryan

I have a trion! Yeah, that's it.... 

Wait, I have a couple festool blades too, and a systainer!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got a chance to use it today. Dust extraction works well even on a 2x4 so should be even better with smaller material. I have some dialing in to do so I think I can improve the dust extraction to pretty close to how good the kapex is with a little playing around. Its not as powerful as my 15a Bosch but at 13a its pretty dam powerful. will grt some more pics of the dust extraction after i do my tune up on it. but its si much smoother, much quieter and much more precise than the Bosch. 


Here it is with the out feed connected. I didn't bother putting on the other out feed as it was long enough with just the UG on its own.













Here's the saw connected to the base













Here's the dial you turn to move the fence fractions of a MM. 












Update: here's the fix to the dust issue. I'm not exactly sure why festool don't supply a clear cover of some kind for this window but tape is a quick fix.

Here's the tape on the window










Here's the table after cutting 3 45" pieces of 2x4 









It's prob not far off as good as the kapex now.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

They sell a plate to cover that hole for better extraction, but tape and cardboard are cheaper. They don't put something permanent there because you need to be able to change the blade.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They sell a plate to cover that hole for better extraction, but tape and cardboard are cheaper. They don't put something permanent there because you need to be able to change the blade.


I didn't know they sold a plate for that. Might have to look into that but like you say tape and cardboard works and its rare I will have to remove it.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

They have an accessory for everything.:laughing:


----------



## mattsk8

While that saw and their router table look cool, there's no way I would ever pay that kind of money for it.

Don't get me wrong, I love the Festool tools I own, I have 3 sanders, the TS55, and the CT36 (I think?) dust collector and they all work very well. But, IMO, they're getting a bit too gimicky and pricey w/ stuff like that. For instance, who in their right mind would pay $280 for a light?? What's that thing do for you? For that kind of money it better include a disco ball and some really loud, boomy speakers!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mattsk8 said:


> While that saw and their router table look cool, there's no way I would ever pay that kind of money for it.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love the Festool tools I own, I have 3 sanders, the TS55, and the CT36 (I think?) dust collector and they all work very well. But, IMO, they're getting a bit too gimicky and pricey w/ stuff like that. For instance, who in their right mind would pay $280 for a light?? What's that thing do for you? For that kind of money it better include a disco ball and some really loud, boomy speakers!


Not sure what light your talking about. If you mean the syslight then that's $175 which is great value if you know anything about flashlights. My last flashlight cost me $325 and it ain't rechargeable like the festool one and does not take more battery's than what's inside it.


----------



## Five Star

Eric K said:


> Where do you find those wives? I want one. Mine would have me living in the trailer with that $4800 table saw


I had to hide my festool s for over a year going thru my divorce now that they seen the light of day I'm going to put them in my prenup agreement


----------



## moorewarner

Just found the secret club. It's about time somebody made it, I had been considering the same thing.

No haters allowed.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They have an accessory for everything.:laughing:


Darcy you know the number to the part. I can't find it. I had the same issue with the inserts for the tools to go into the t-loc's. Was a mission to find the part numbers. Looks like this bits the same.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Done this today as well. Moved both guns to the sys5 and made a holder for the gas cartridges. Just got to make one for the batteries.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> Darcy you know the number to the part. I can't find it. I had the same issue with the inserts for the tools to go into the t-loc's. Was a mission to find the part numbers. Looks like this bits the same.


Easiest way for me to do this on my tablet. 

http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/cover-plate/p/491750/


----------



## CarpenterSFO

BCConstruction said:


> Done this today as well. Moved both guns to the sys5 and made a holder for the gas cartridges. Just got to make one for the batteries.
> View attachment 90583


Somewhere, someone's built a cradle into a systainer. "And look, honey, we can store the baby on top of the dust collector, too!"


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

CarpenterSFO said:


> Somewhere, someone's built a cradle into a systainer. "And look, honey, we can store the baby on top of the dust collector, too!"


Already done that. Had him in a sys5 few weeks ago. He can sit inside it and close the lid lol


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

All my kids were put it one when they were little. 

Then all stacked up and taken to grandma's with one trip from the truck.:laughing:


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They have an accessory for everything.:laughing:


I think gray duct tape would be best:whistling


----------



## mattsk8

BCConstruction said:


> Not sure what light your talking about. If you mean the syslight then that's $175 which is great value if you know anything about flashlights.


You are correct, but when I saw them there were a couple for sale at $280, I guess some people just trying to take advantage of fools.



BCConstruction said:


> My last flashlight cost me $325 and it ain't rechargeable like the festool one and does not take more battery's than what's inside it.


:whistling
My flashlight cost me about $25 and it's about 8 years old. I also have the lights that came w/ my cordless kits. I'm not exactly sure what a light should do aside from "shedding light", but mine all seem to work fine. What else is there to know about a flashlight?? If I need more than those can deliver I'll grab my halogens.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mattsk8 said:


> You are correct, but when I saw them there were a couple for sale at $280, I guess some people just trying to take advantage of fools.
> 
> :whistling
> My flashlight cost me about $25 and it's about 8 years old. I also have the lights that came w/ my cordless kits. I'm not exactly sure what a light should do aside from "shedding light", but mine all seem to work fine. What else is there to know about a flashlight?? If I need more than those can deliver I'll grab my halogens.


You would be surprised at how much better a good quality light is to use. That little festool light will light up a pretty large area with good light. My 18v Makita don't put out anywhere near the same amount of light or quality of light.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> You would be surprised at how much better a good quality light is to use. That little festool light will light up a pretty large area with good light. My 18v Makita don't put out anywhere near the same amount of light or quality of light.


If you spend that much on a flash light it's obvious you have no employees.


----------



## chris klee

very true inner. i dont let many people even look at my tools. there is no way i would give them to an employee and let them use them with out me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> If you spend that much on a flash light it's obvious you have no employees.


That's one reason why I don't. I doubt I will ever take on another person. Would rather turn the work down than take on a crew. Leaves me with more money to buy the things I want.


----------



## Brian Peters

Clarke Carpentry said:


> I have a Bosch 1591 jigsaw which is kind of a copy of the Trion as far as I can tell. I never use the chip guard and the dust collection still works fine. Might be worth trying with the Festool.
> 
> I actually think it's the Festool blades that make the most difference with the jigsaws.


Will the Festool blades work in my Bosch 1590 ?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Brian Peters said:


> Will the Festool blades work in my Bosch 1590 ?


They should. I use them in my makita and Bosch blades fit my makita.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

Easy Gibson said:


> ...
> I know it's not very "adult" to come home and use a power tool for no reason ....


"I want to play with my new power tool" works for me, every time.


----------



## sancho

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Used my ts55 today noticed I was getting a tear out on both sides of the cut. It's not terrible but it didn't use to do that. Any solutions to this?


I had the same issue. I replaced the green splinter guard thingy. They sell them in 5 packs. Lemme get a P/N for ya

here ya go this is what Im talking about

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2006178/17543/festool-splinter-guard-plastic--5-pack.aspx


----------



## JohnKaznecki

Hey Darcy,
Cool pictures of you in Festool May edition "new product" catalog. I just left from Wood world here in Chicago empty handed because they were out of Ro150 sender that I was going to use on Monday. Almost left with the new Ts55 Req with mtf/3 table, but I need the sender more.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

JohnKaznecki said:


> Hey Darcy,
> Cool pictures of you in Festool May edition "new product" catalog. I just left from Wood world here in Chicago empty handed because they were out of Ro150 sender that I was going to use on Monday. Almost left with the new Ts55 Req with mtf/3 table, but I need the sender more.



I was told they were putting me in a bunch of different things, but I have not seen any of them. The guys at festool are saving copies of everything to give to me when I stop down to see them this summer.


----------



## JohnKaznecki

This is what it looks like.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

I see the Green thread is still on fire:thumbsup:
I stay green with envy
Of you guys with green stuff all over you:blink:


----------



## Brian Peters

Darcy is the new face of Festool.


----------



## redwood

Darcy looks like he needs to stop using his tools and eat something. Maybe trim the beard too. JK


----------



## Inner10

redwood said:


> Darcy looks like he needs to stop using his tools and eat something. Maybe trim the beard too. JK


Without the beard he looks a little too much like Richard Chase. :laughing:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It hit 80 here this week and the beard had to go, at least most of it. 

I was also sick for a week and dropped down to 137lbs, it is a solid 137 though.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It hit 80 here this week and the beard had to go, at least most of it.
> 
> I was also sick for a week and dropped down to 137lbs, it is a solid 137 though.


Lol a solid 137lbs


----------



## redwood

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It hit 80 here this week and the beard had to go, at least most of it.
> 
> I was also sick for a week and dropped down to 137lbs, it is a solid 137 though.


We'll need pictures. Not


----------



## Warren

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It hit 80 here this week and the beard had to go, at least most of it.
> 
> I was also sick for a week and dropped down to 137lbs, it is a solid 137 though.


15 pounds of that is the beard.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

BCConstruction said:


> Lol a solid 137lbs





Warren said:


> 15 pounds of that is the beard.


50lbs. is hot air:whistling
50lbs. is BS:jester:
:laughing::laughing:


----------



## rrk

137!!! Eat something man, unless you are only 5' tall
I was 137 in the 7th grade I think


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

My left leg weighs 137 :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got these in post the other day. Forgot I ordered them a while back and was a surprise when they turned up. 

Square drive bits for the centrotec chucks. Got them from www.toolnut.com They 2 different sets but they seem to be the same things. Mine say atlas on the invoice yet were not marked atlas in the site. Seem to be very good quality too.


----------



## tjbnwi

Atlas Tool fabricates them in Canada, I ordered mine directly from Atlas. I got both sets. 

They have held up real well. You should be happy with them.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Atlas Tool fabricates them in Canada, I ordered mine directly from Atlas. I got both sets.
> 
> They have held up real well. You should be happy with them.
> 
> Tom


I'm glad they are same size as the other festool bits too.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got a chance today to use the Qwas dogs and rail dogs some more today.


----------



## Rustbucket

BCConstruction said:


> Got these in post the other day. Forgot I ordered them a while back and was a surprise when they turned up.


For me that's usually a sign that I was sipping Bourbon and surfing the net a few days earlier. UPS shows up, and it feels like Christmas until the credit card statement arrives!


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Bought an MFT/3 and the stupid expensive clamps last week and got to use it properly yesterday.

Absolute revelation in working. I'm in love with it already. Only complaint is that the table itself is a little on the heavy side but not too bad. Used it with the TS55, QF1400, Kapex and RO90, works great with all of them.

It's convinced me to get the UG cart and wings for the Kapex next.


----------



## moorewarner

My Kapex/UGGG stand got it's inaugural run a couple days ago.

I'll be back to ***** later.


----------



## moorewarner

Clarke Carpentry said:


> Bought an MFT/3 and the stupid expensive clamps last week and got to use it properly yesterday.
> 
> Absolute revelation in working. I'm in love with it already. Only complaint is that the table itself is a little on the heavy side but not too bad. Used it with the TS55, QF1400, Kapex and RO90, works great with all of them.
> 
> *It's convinced me to get the UG cart and wings for the Kapex next.*


I might have one to sell you. Seriously. Used all of one day.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I would rather use the kapex mft3 with the new style wings, if I was buying it all over now.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

The cart is no good?

Why would you prefer the table? Because you can use it as a table too?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Yeah, I can use it for other things, perfect size for a work surface inside a small house/work space. 

Plus you can set stuff on it when you are using the saw.


----------



## moorewarner

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I would rather use the kapex mft3 with the new style wings, if I was buying it all over now.


What are the new style wings? 

I actually like the cart well enough but the wings... either there is something I am not getting or they they have issues.

Their connection to the Kapex just blows. The crown attachment seems to have a much better attachment mechanisim, why the UG wings don't have the same I don't understand. I also think the single leg is a bit sketchy.

On to the kapex, it cuts like butter very nice. I did however notice the small parts/projectile tendency.

But mainly adjustable fences get in the way of beveling!!? WTF?

Even taking those off the clamp is still in the way of a left bevel. I couldn't immediately figure out how to get the clamp off so I had to flip work.

WTF???

It needs a longer deck. You shouldn't have to take your saw apart to do a bevel cut.

What am I missing Kapex users?


----------



## Brian Peters

I don't believe the Kapex is the only saw that you have to adjust the fence for a bevel cut..that's why they make them adjustable.


----------



## tjbnwi

Yours are the new style wings if you have the single leg. If you do not loosen the thumb screw enough to push the retaining tab far enough into the Kapex the wings will be very unstable. Do not loosen the thumb screw so far that it falls out. You must push the retainer in all the way and then tighten the thumb screw. I had issues with the wings being wobbly at first also, once I figured out I was not pushing the retainer in far enough the problem went away. The single leg is fine, once you get the attachment worked out. 

My Bosch I have to move the fence to bevel past about 20º. If I'm doing a lot of bevel work, I just take them off. Make sure you vacuum out the fence slots on the yoke before you reinstall the fences. 

I've had little problems with the small projectiles, but I know that it is an issue. When cutting small pieces I either back them up or let the blade come to a stop before I raise the head, just the way I've always handled small pieces like self return cuts. I think (but don't know for sure) the dust collection has something to do with the flying small pieces. It may lift the small piece into the blade as it being raised. 

Which clamp? If it's the material hold down clamp, all brands get in the way of bevel cuts. 

Not sure a longer deck would help. 

One of the biggest thing I like about the UG wings is they mount to my MFT3 and CMS. 

You can also reverse the UG wings side for each to act as your crown stops. 

I have used the MFT Kapex, with the wings, and that little extra space around the saw is pretty nice. I don't like setting up the old style wings with the twin legs and strut. The new wings on the MFT Kapex would be a really nice combination. Not having the UG cart you do give up a little bit of ease of transport though. 

Tom


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Thanks for the info. I got confused over which were the new and old style wings. I had it backwards. The new style with the single leg look much better.

They look pretty stable in this video.

http://youtu.be/mng4dyf7gFY?t=3m27s

Dunno if I like the cart or the mini MFT better though. If the mini MFT was the same height as the regular one I'd be sold. I'm 6'3" so it wouldn't bother me. I think the cart and the wings works out cheaper than the table and wings too. Although I don't even know if the cart will fit in the back of my cab or under the tonneau.


----------



## tjbnwi

The reason why the MFT Kapex is shorter is, with the Kapex on the table it is the same height as the MFT3. 

The owner of the Kapex and UG system I'm in possession of transports the Kapex on the stand with the wings in the back seat of his Jetta. It is a 4 door so it fits right in, not sure how well it would fit in the cab unless it was a crew cab. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have the original/old style wings. I like them, especially having the crown stops. 

They do take a few minutes to set up, but they are solid. For me, the cart would be worthless, I don't have the need to wheel my saw around or the room in my suburban for it.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

tjbnwi said:


> The reason why the MFT Kapex is shorter is, with the Kapex on the table it is the same height as the MFT3.
> 
> The owner of the Kapex and UG system I'm in possession of transports the Kapex on the stand with the wings in the back seat of his Jetta. It is a 4 door so it fits right in, not sure how well it would fit in the cab unless it was a crew cab.
> 
> Tom


I should've guessed that it would work out the same height, being Festool and all.

I have a crew cab so it might just fit but I think it would take up a lot of the space I usually use for other stuff. Think I'm gonna go with the table and wings instead.


----------



## J L

Here's the table with the crown extensions and homemade wings. Quick setup and doesn't take up much space.


----------



## moorewarner

Brian Peters said:


> I don't believe the Kapex is the only saw that you have to adjust the fence for a bevel cut..that's why they make them adjustable.


No. :no:

Not "adjust". :no:

R.E.M.O.V.E. :blink: (EDIT: I was cutting 45 bevels)


----------



## moorewarner

RemodelGA said:


> Here's the table with the crown extensions and homemade wings. Quick setup and doesn't take up much space.


That's nice.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I had to move at least one fence for bevels on my old makitas and bosch saws. 

The issue on the kapex is the forward rails. To save space behind the saw, there is compromise, the rails will hit the fence on bevels over 25?


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

That is nice. The wings are ******* expensive by themselves.


----------



## moorewarner

tjbnwi said:


> Yours are the new style wings if you have the single leg. If you do not loosen the thumb screw enough to push the retaining tab far enough into the Kapex the wings will be very unstable. Do not loosen the thumb screw so far that it falls out. You must push the retainer in all the way and then tighten the thumb screw. I had issues with the wings being wobbly at first also, once I figured out I was not pushing the retainer in far enough the problem went away. The single leg is fine, once you get the attachment worked out.
> 
> My Bosch I have to move the fence to bevel past about 20º. If I'm doing a lot of bevel work, I just take them off. Make sure you vacuum out the fence slots on the yoke before you reinstall the fences.
> 
> I've had little problems with the small projectiles, but I know that it is an issue. When cutting small pieces I either back them up or let the blade come to a stop before I raise the head, just the way I've always handled small pieces like self return cuts. I think (but don't know for sure) the dust collection has something to do with the flying small pieces. It may lift the small piece into the blade as it being raised.
> 
> Which clamp? If it's the material hold down clamp, all brands get in the way of bevel cuts.
> 
> Not sure a longer deck would help.
> 
> One of the biggest thing I like about the UG wings is they mount to my MFT3 and CMS.
> 
> You can also reverse the UG wings side for each to act as your crown stops.
> 
> I have used the MFT Kapex, with the wings, and that little extra space around the saw is pretty nice. I don't like setting up the old style wings with the twin legs and strut. The new wings on the MFT Kapex would be a really nice combination. Not having the UG cart you do give up a little bit of ease of transport though.
> 
> Tom


Yeah I saw that video of the set up. I have pondered and tried everything to get those buggers to attach solidly. I don't think I am doing anything different that the cat in the video. 

It's solid from above, side to side not so much. Like I said, compare the UG wing attachment bracket to the crown attachment bracket, world of difference. If the UG had the crown bracket we wouldn't be having this conversation. That is the mystifying part to me, they have a fine example of what works with another of their own products.

If they can be useful with CMS, which is next on my list, there could be some redemptive factor to them.

A longer deck would let you get you your full bevel out of the saw, which with fences removed is 45 right and 39 left due to the clamp. Seems like another 2-4 " would get you to max.

Seems like an unnecessary design limitation.

I *want* to love it in every way. And like I said it cuts like a treat.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I had to move at least one fence for bevels on my old makitas and bosch saws.
> 
> The issue on the kapex is the forward rails. To save space behind the saw, there is compromise, the rails will hit the fence on bevels over 25?


Yeah you have to move the fences on all saws but the Kapex is the only one I've used where you have to take the right hand fence all the way off. Still prefer to do that and have the rails up front though. Small compromise in my opinion.


----------



## moorewarner

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I had to move at least one fence for bevels on my old makitas and bosch saws.
> 
> The issue on the kapex is the forward rails. To save space behind the saw, there is compromise, the rails will hit the fence on bevels over 25?


Yeah it's the rails, the kicker was being limited to 39 on a left bevel with no way around it, that's what really started to irritate me. It was like being home again on my old DeWault single bevel. 

It seems as if they made the deck longer they could of delivered it all.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's not that big of a deal to slide the fence back. Bevel cutting probably accounts for 10% of my cutting max.

How are you limited to 39 left?


----------



## J L

Clarke Carpentry said:


> That is nice. The wings are ******* expensive by themselves.


No joke. Hence the homemade wings...


----------



## J L

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's not that big of a deal to slide the fence back. Bevel cutting probably accounts for 10% of my cutting max.
> 
> How are you limited to 39 left?


If you don't slide the fence over any, the rails hit at 39. If you slide the fence over a bit, it clears the full 47


----------



## moorewarner

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's not that big of a deal to slide the fence back. Bevel cutting probably accounts for 10% of my cutting max.
> 
> How are you limited to 39 left?


Material clamp?


----------



## moorewarner

RemodelGA said:


> If you don't slide the fence over any, the rails hit at 39. If you slide the fence over a bit, *it clears the full 47*


Then what saw am I using? :laughing:

I get 45 right, max with fence removed; and 39 left, as it hits the material clamp.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

RemodelGA said:


> If you don't slide the fence over any, the rails hit at 39. If you slide the fence over a bit, it clears the full 47


I just drug mine out and checked. Yup. My saw looks like hell.


----------



## tjbnwi

Photos of the bracket from the front and rear. 

Video of the connection yours should be this solid;

http://youtu.be/p5ki5tqtOqE

Tom


----------



## moorewarner

tjbnwi said:


> Photos of the bracket from the front and rear.
> 
> Video of the connection yours should be this solid;
> 
> http://youtu.be/p5ki5tqtOqE
> 
> Tom


Thanks Tom, I am clearly not getting something right. That is what I am looking for. I will screw around with it and then come back and eat crow/shut my pie-hole. :laughing:


----------



## moorewarner

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I just drug mine out and checked. Yup. My saw looks like hell.


And clearly the clamp *can* be removed. This is getting better by minute. RTFM. :whistling


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

moorewarner said:


> And clearly the clamp *can* be removed. This is getting better by minute. RTFM. :whistling


Spin it 180 degrees a pull it out.


----------



## moorewarner

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Spin it 180 degrees a pull it out.


Yeah... I'm going to need me to move my stuff to the basement, that would be great.

Let's forget I even posted shall we? :whistling










:laughing:


----------



## J L

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Spin it 180 degrees a pull it out.


That's what she said!


----------



## tjbnwi

moorewarner said:


> Then what saw am I using? :laughing:


Without pictures I have no clue. 

The UG wings on my MFT3, the last pic is of the CMS fence on the MFT3 using it as an additional fence and stop. I don't have any pics of the wings on the CMS, but I have used them on it.

Some day I may have to actually buy a Kapex and the stand.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Darcy,

I drive an Excursion, the UG stand and wings work out well for me. I find it very easy to swing it up into the truck while on the stand. There are 3 doors a vanity, 1 sheet 1/2" MDF, MFT3, Kapex on UG stand with wings,35 systainers, Rolair Jc10, MM, a tub of other stuff and then some in my truck in these pics. 

It is one of the things I like best about the Festools, you can neatly pack a lot of stuff in a vehicle. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Made these, TS 55, Kapex and Domino.
> 
> Tom


Is that a saw kerf on your track? :whistling:


----------



## Calidecks

californiadecks said:


> is that a saw kerf on your track? :whistling:


At the bottom of the track it looks like a kerf from a kickback


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

What about the CSX 10.8?

I just assumed that because every other Festool I have exceeds my every expectation......they would be the same.

Is there a cordless drill that they make you think is great......a different model......or stay away from their guns?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Dude.....really?
> 
> Cuz I could defintely use that 1k for other Green.....or other green.
> 
> Please......save me from overdosing.
> 
> You really think they are a waste?


I agree with Darc

There's not many festools I wouldn't by but that just may be the odd ball. I will know better when i test some more side by side.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> What about the CSX 10.8?
> 
> I just assumed that because every other Festool I have exceeds my every expectation......they would be the same.
> 
> Is there a cordless drill that they make you think is great......a different model......or stay away from their guns?


CXS best drill I ever used. Def worth it.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Dude.....really?
> 
> Cuz I could defintely use that 1k for other Green.....or other green.
> 
> Please......save me from overdosing.
> 
> You really think they are a waste?


Let's just say it is probably the one tool that they are not too fond/proud of at Festool.


The battery's are great, but after that it is a let down. In another 8 months or so, you will be able to get a bomb ass impact driver from them when the Protool stuff becomes Festool stuff.


----------



## tjbnwi

I haven't used the Ti, but I have not read a lot of great things about them. I don't have a working impact and have not pulled the trigger on the Ti. I love my T-15 and CSX. If that tells you anything.

You may be the one to educate us.

You have 30 days to return them if your not happy with them. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I love my CXS, best compact drill ever. My C-12 is 6 years old and the original battery's still hold about 85% of the charge that the two new battery's do that I got for it last year. Got a deal on two battery's and I love that drill.

I am really wanting to get the new C-15.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> I haven't used the Ti, but I have not read a lot of great things about them. I don't have a working impact and have not pulled the trigger on the Ti. I love my T-15 and CSX. If that tells you anything.
> 
> You may be the one to educate us.
> 
> You have 30 days to return them if your not happy with them.
> 
> Tom
> 
> Tom


That is why I opted for the brushless makita, I even talked to Rick about it, as I was considering the ti-15.


----------



## tjbnwi

As I was posting, you asked about the CSX. It will become an extension of your hand. If you can't find it, just look in your hand. 

Yes, it's that good.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Thanks for the heads up on the future impact Darcy, I'll hold off until then. 

My T-15 so far has not let me down on any fastener. 

That's one thing about the folks in Lebenon, they'll tell you straight what they think. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I'm a hilti guy 18 v which is i thnk 24v. 3 speed. Water resistant drop dust and anything proof. The warranty is just bring it in and grab another on the way out or they'll even drop of one off me. The abuse the power is hands down the best in the market. They even gave me light wt battery i think it' s 14v which is super light for cabinets and light duty stuff. 
Hilti also has track saw it the same dam thing as festie. I wouldn't be surprised if they use the mfg.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The old lady called me a few minutes ago and told me there were two packages from Festool that were on the porch.


I stopped by the PO box on the way home:blink: I got a box from Amazon


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Thanks a lot everybody.

I'm going to try them out..............like Tom said, 30 days.

With a screwgun, 30 days is enough to map it's entire genome.

If it doesn't live up to the $565, I may just have to break my color coordination scheme and go Hilti. They are real solid guns.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got me bits from Seneca. First impressions are these bits are very well made. Ain't gonna be able to test them out on anything for few weeks so will hold out until tested to give a review.


----------



## AndyWRS

I bit the bullet a couple weeks ago and got a CT36, sander and the MFT3 then last week picked up the Kapex. I have not owned any Festool prior to these and it was quite a wallet drainer, but i am quite happy with the purchase.


----------



## Calidecks

Look what I bought


----------



## Calidecks

Does Festool make a 12" scms? Some one answer before I open this box


----------



## Calidecks

Sure is a purdy mofo


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Sure is a purdy mofo
> 
> View attachment 93588


I thought you would have bought the 12" instead of the 10":blink:


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I thought you would have bought the 12" instead of the 10":blink:


You waited until I opened it didn't you?


----------



## Calidecks

I heard it's a 10" and 12" all in one


----------



## Calidecks

Why don't they make the right side the same as the left so I don't have to take the fence off to cut a 45


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It is close to a 12. I went from a 12" to my kapex and have not missed the 12".

The right rail sticks out a little further due to the gearing to operate the bevel. 

Not a huge deal to me as bevel cuts are only about 10% of my cutting.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It is close to a 12. I went from a 12" to my kapex and have not missed the 12".
> 
> The right rail sticks out a little further due to the gearing to operate the bevel.
> 
> Not a huge deal to me as bevel cuts are only about 10% of my cutting.


Do you still use the vac even when your outside? Rockler said if I want the vac I can get 10% off, if I decide I still want it in the next 30 days


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> Do you still use the vac even when your outside? Rockler said if I want the vac I can get 10% off, if I decide I still want it in the next 30 days


Yes, I use the vac out side with it. Sounds silly, but I have grown to appreciate the lack of dust blowing in my face.


----------



## tjbnwi

Another one, that if the tools running the CT is running. Once you get used to the very limited dust and mess, you despises both. Not having the saw dust on the miter scale is nice. 

I hung 35 sheets of drywall today, the mess from the Roto Zip and screws going in annoyed me to no end. 

Go get the CT, and a 36 mm hose. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

It sounds funny on start up


----------



## Calidecks

Has a rattle


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yes, I use the vac out side with it. Sounds silly, but I have grown to appreciate the lack of dust blowing in my face.


Dose the saw shoot the dust into your face:laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> It sounds funny on start up





Californiadecks said:


> Has a rattle


Most probably normal. They use electronic clutches. First time users of the TS have the same comment. If you can post a video with sound, that would help.

It will blow a lot of dust out the port. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It is gear driven, the noise is from the gear backlash as the electric motor controls work to keep the saw blade at a constant speed. 

As Tom said, it sounds just like their rail saws.


----------



## redwood

Mike, if you get the vac., make sure you get the bigger hose.

I'm now using Fast Cap saw hood to catch my dust. That allows me to use my vac in other areas.


----------



## Calidecks

redwood said:


> Mike, if you get the vac., make sure you get the bigger hose.
> 
> I'm now using Fast Cap saw hood to catch my dust. That allows me to use my vac in other areas.


Does your saw sound funny on start and winddown


----------



## Calidecks

I hope it's the same thing Darcy is talking about. I'm having problems trying to post a video


----------



## Calidecks

This thing cuts a composite decking board like it was cutting air


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

it might sound funny compared to every other manfacturers saws, but it sounds just like every Festool. It has a growl to it.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> it might sound funny compared to every other manfacturers saws, but it sounds just like every Festool. It has a growl to it.


Well that is very comforting to know because I just dropped 1400 bucks. I couldn't believe how clean it cut. Can you use a forrester blade on it or do you have to use a festool blade?


----------



## tjbnwi

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAa2GctonQQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

I have both Festool blades. Never found the need for anyother. I do have the Forrest on my Bosch.

Strange, I own Kapex blades, but no Kapex.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have the 60t festool blade, a Tenryu, a Matsush! ta, a professional tools and some other one too. There are a lot of options out there now for a 30mm bore 265mm diameter blade.


----------



## tjbnwi

Mike, does the noise go away when you cut the deck boars?

Tom


----------



## BBuild

The only time I've ever been zapped by a static shock is when using the TS 55 and it only happened when I touched the rail. When using the kapex I've never been zapped. Your just making a quick cut and your holding the handle and the stock. I doubt the kapex makes enough dust in one cut to generate much static. Most of the time I use any of my AS hoses their connected to a plastic non grounded homemade dust deputy with no problem. The 36mm AS hoses are just too rigid for my liking. I have to wrap it up in a 3' wide loop. Ive been tempted to cut it in half but i paid $150 for it. The only AS hose i bring on the job is my 10 year old 27mm hose. That one is very flexible. Much more so than my others. The bosch hose having the smaller end is definitely a restriction but it flows way more air than a 27mm hose. It sounds like a jet with the smaller end but I did take the end of a Festool hose and swapped with the Bosch. Also dust sticking to the hose doesn't bother me because that was missed by the vac anyway. Rather stuck to the hose than on the floor or in the air.


----------



## Calidecks

Picking up the vac this afternoon. (Cali time)
Customers like clean. They will like this.
Nothing worse then dusting out a customers pool.


----------



## BBuild

Look at some cleaning sets while your there. It's a cheaper way to pick up 36mm hose and an extra Systainer.


----------



## duburban

BBuild said:


> Look at some cleaning sets while your there. It's a cheaper way to pick up 36mm hose and an extra Systainer.


I just ordered the tradesmen cleaning set and a reconditioned MIDI. Finally I can cleanup without pulling out the ridgid.


----------



## BBuild

The tradesmen set is nice. When I got mine it came in a sys4 and it was impossible to get the hose back in there. The front of the Systainer was all bowed out when I got it. Probably part of the reason I can't stand that hose. They now come in a sys5 so it shouldn't be as bad. Those stainless tubes are pretty serious too. I like my compact cleaning sets better for site use though. The plastic tubes are very forgiving in someones house and will not mark up any surfaces.


----------



## duburban

i needed a 36mm anyway so i'll start here. sold off my ts55 a few days ago and getting ready to order the new ts55 with a 55 holy rail and 75" rail. after this i'll be all set for a while. used the domino the other day to whip up a miter saw stand and wings to marry my dewalt stand and makita saw. amazing connection and really versatile. almost went for the domzilla on this reconditioned order too...


----------



## Eric K

Do you guys just ask for reconditioned tools at your dealer? Mine looked at me like I was crazy.


----------



## Calidecks

Ok bought the vacuum and that's it. I will stop the madness!


----------



## Leo G

It never stops.


----------



## Calidecks

I don't care what you guys say, I still like my Bosch, gravity rise stand


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> I don't care what you guys say, I still like my Bosch, gravity rise stand


I used to like my Makita gravity rise stand until I see the UG setup and mft3 kapex.


----------



## alboston

All of this Festool talk led me to buying some more tools. I broke down and bought the TS55REQ and the 1010 router/ midi vac combo and the lr32 and holy rail. I had the dewalt tracksaw for about 4 years and wanted to try the TS55 because I do like the festool system. I have to say, the TS55req is better than the dewalt, not by a lot, but better. Value wise, if you are already invested in the festool system, get the TS55req. If you don't really care about festool, the dewalt or makita are probably better values and both excellent saws. 

I haven't used the 1010 router yet but will tomorrow. I need to figure out how to use the lr32'system first. Looks straight forward. 

As for the Midi, I was looking for something for the jobsite that was easy to carry around. I like the size of it. Plenty of power. I don't like the hose. I prefer my Fein vac with Bosch hose in the shop. Can I fit a bigger hose on the midi? Should I get that cleaning setup for it?

That's my mini review if you at all cared. Very happy with the purchases.


----------



## tjbnwi

Eric K said:


> Do you guys just ask for reconditioned tools at your dealer? Mine looked at me like I was crazy.


Here is a link to the last updated list. You have to order through your dealer, they are shipped directly from Lebanon, In. 

If your dealer does not know about this call Tom at Tool Home, seeing as they have to be shipped it does not matter where you order from;

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/

BBuild, Doesn't the DD have a ground path as part of the unit? There is a thread on FOG where the ground was bad on a DD and it zapped the control board on the CT. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

I have to ask;

Is it okay to post a link to FOG? 

If not, alboston head over there and look in the Festool Tool Review Section, there is a 7 part video tutorial on the LR 32 (it's still on the first page of the section). You do not need to register to watch the videos or see pictures on FOG. Not as straight forward as many think. Not hard, but a little guidance helps. 

Tom


----------



## alboston

Thanks, i actually found some of those of FOG, just haven't watched yet. 



tjbnwi said:


> I have to ask;
> 
> Is it okay to post a link to FOG?
> 
> If not, alboston head over there and look in the Festool Tool Review Section, there is a 7 part video tutorial on the LR 32 (it's still on the first page of the section). Not as straight forward as many think. Not hard, but a little guidance helps.
> 
> Tom


----------



## Calidecks

alboston said:


> All of this Festool talk led me to buying some more tools. I broke down and bought the TS55REQ and the 1010 router/ midi vac combo and the lr32 and holy rail. I had the dewalt tracksaw for about 4 years and wanted to try the TS55 because I do like the festool system. I have to say, the TS55req is better than the dewalt, not by a lot, but better. Value wise, if you are already invested in the festool system, get the TS55req. If you don't really care about festool, the dewalt or makita are probably better values and both excellent saws.
> 
> I haven't used the 1010 router yet but will tomorrow. I need to figure out how to use the lr32'system first. Looks straight forward.
> 
> As for the Midi, I was looking for something for the jobsite that was easy to carry around. I like the size of it. Plenty of power. I don't like the hose. I prefer my Fein vac with Bosch hose in the shop. Can I fit a bigger hose on the midi? Should I get that cleaning setup for it?
> 
> That's my mini review if you at all cared. Very happy with the purchases.


So can you fit a bigger diameter hose on it? If so what are the advantages? The reason I ask is the hole size in the vac is still the same.


----------



## alboston

Californiadecks said:


> So can you fit a bigger diameter hose on it? If so what are the advantages? The reason I ask is the hole size in the vac is still the same.


Just a longer hose, story of my life. I like the length of the Bosch hose i put on my vein vac.


----------



## tjbnwi

Yes, you can use a larger hose on the Midi or Mini. The female socket on the CT's are all the same size. The hose will come out the top (actually works better with the Kapex this way). You cannot use the 90º elbow on a larger hose.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

alboston said:


> Just a longer hose, story of my life. I like the length of the Bosch hose i put on my vein vac.


I only have 3" hose but some girls like Em that fat.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> I only have 3" hose but some girls like Em that fat.


3" circumference at nothing to boast about lol


----------



## Eric K

tjbnwi said:


> Here is a link to the last updated list. You have to order through your dealer, they are shipped directly from Lebanon, In.
> 
> If your dealer does not know about this call Tom at Tool Home, seeing as they have to be shipped it does not matter where you order from;
> 
> http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/
> 
> BBuild, Doesn't the DD have a ground path as part of the unit? There is a thread on FOG where the ground was bad on a DD and it zapped the control board on the CT.
> 
> Tom


Where at on that link is refurbished or I am plain missing it


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Yes, you can use a larger hose on the Midi or Mini. The female socket on the CT's are all the same size. The hose will come out the top (actually works better with the Kapex this way). You cannot use the 90º elbow on a larger hose.
> 
> Tom


Yea but how's it affect the the cord storage?


----------



## tjbnwi

Eric K said:


> Where at on that link is refurbished or I am plain missing it


Sorry, I missed the link you need. 

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/reconditioned/

Pick what you want, call Tom (the link I did include), he will make sure it is still available. From what I read the list on Festools site is up dated in real time.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Yea but how's it affect the the cord storage?


If you shorten the 36 mm hose to work with the Kapex, it is just fine. If you do not shorten the 36 mm hose, it alone will not fit in the Mini/Midi hose garage.

Tom


----------



## duburban

Eric K said:


> Do you guys just ask for reconditioned tools at your dealer? Mine looked at me like I was crazy.


they must not be up on the ins and outs of festool


----------



## duburban

i'm using bob marino as a festool dealer and hes awesome. i haven't needed to but he seems like the perfect dealer to chat with about the details that make this sh#t worth buying. he seems like a small one man operation

http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com


----------



## Brian Peters

Here's where I got my reconditioned Kapex 
http://www.toolking.com/search/index.php?q=festool+reconditioned&p=1&rpp=16&s=relevancy


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Does the 36mm hose really make that big of a difference with the kapex?


----------



## J L

Clarke Carpentry said:


> Does the 36mm hose really make that big of a difference with the kapex?


Yes


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

May as well get the tradesman cleaning kit then I suppose.

Happy Father's day to me.


----------



## Calidecks

Not familiar with festool what size hose came with my vac? And is the 35mm hose a wider hose then he stock hose?


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Not familiar with festool what size hose came with my vac? And is the 35mm hose a wider hose then he stock hose?


Your CT came with the 27 mm hose. The only CT that comes with the 36 mm hose is the 36 AC.

The 36 mm is larger, it slides over the port on the Kapex, instead of inside the port. 

I mentioned getting the larger hose when you first mentioned getting the CT. Also recommend getting a box of bags.

Tom


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

I think it's something like 26mm that comes with the vacs. Yeah, the 36mm is wider. The size is the diameter of the hose. Translates to something like 1" for the standard one and 1 3/8" for the larger one in real units.

Edit: Tom beat me to it with a better explanation.


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Your CT came with the 27 mm hose. The only CT that comes with the 36 mm hose is the 36 AC.
> 
> I mentioned getting the larger hose when you first mentioned getting the CT. Also recommend getting a box of bags.
> 
> Tom


Thanks for your help Tom. 

Forgive my questioning they may be redundant.


Yes, I bought the ct today and purchased a box of bags. However I was a little confused on the hose. They only sold 27mm hoses at my lumberyard. I will probably need to order the 36mm online. I was going to get the 26, however I really like the portability of the Midi, so I bought that one instead.

Does it suck better with the 36mm or does it just pick up bigger debris?


----------



## tjbnwi

Mike,

Due the increase in air flow, it picks up more. The larger size also allows larger items to pass through.

One of the problems with the Compact Cleaning kit is it tends to plug at the hose connection to the wand when used as a shop vac. The other day I discovered if I put the hose on the wands tool end and use the bell shaped handle end, I can pick up much larger pieces without the hose plugging.

The Midi is a convienant little vac. Again the 36 mm hose will come out the top. 

No worries about any redundancy, just the nature of forums.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Mike,
> 
> Due the increase in air flow, it picks up more. The larger size also allows larger items to pass through.
> 
> One of the problems with the Compact Cleaning kit is it tends to plug at the hose connection to the wand when used as a shop vac. The other day I discovered if I put the hose on the wands tool end and use the bell shaped handle end, I can pick up much larger pieces without the hose plugging.
> 
> The Midi is a convienant little vac. Again the 36 mm hose will come out the top.
> 
> No worries about any redundancy, just the nature of forums.
> 
> Tom


So do you not reccomend the compact kit? Or should I get the bigger tradesman kit festool offers?


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Think the Tradesman kit is the one to get. Comes with the bigger hose which is about $140 on it's own, plus the vac attachements and a big systainer to keep it all in. Pretty sure somebody said that the bigger 36mm hose won't wrap up into the top of the CT Midi like the stock one does.


----------



## tjbnwi

I like the Compact Kit, it has its quirks though. It is my go to kit, travels with me to every job. The type of work I do, it handles 99% of what I need. 

As Clarke said, the Tradesman kit gets you the larger hose (non-anti static) and a larger sys. I find the tools are best for the shop.

Scary thing is you'll end up with another CT, I have the Mini, 26 and 36 AC. 

(Sorry for the delay, watching the Blackhawk game)

Tom


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Does it come with the non-anti-static hose?

Amazon lists it as an AS hose...

http://www.amazon.com/Festool-49770...=1370749479&sr=8-1&keywords=festool+tradesman

I just saw the Blackhawks game was still going and turned it on. I like the Kings but hope Chicago does it and sets up an original 6 finals. Would be a great series with the Bs.


----------



## tjbnwi

You're correct the Tradseman does have the AS hose, it is the Universal Kit that comes with the non-anti static hose. Sorry for the possible confusion. 

They're in the second overtime right now. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Hawks just won (12:40 of the second overtime), on a Kane hat trick goal.

Tom


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Yeah saw it. Pumped for the finals. I think it's going to be a great series. Bruins to win though, of course. :whistling


----------



## tjbnwi

Clarke Carpentry said:


> Yeah saw it. Pumped for the finals. I think it's going to be a great series. Bruins to win though, of course. :whistling


In your dreams. I'd make a bet with you, but there is nothing Boston has that I would want. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Doing some work on me own place and gave the CMS a work out with some larger size material for some cabinets. Works a treat.


----------



## Calidecks

Gove me one good reason not to use this hose. It was 100 bucks cheaper. Works better then the one supplied by festool.


----------



## Calidecks

Here it is









Same Damn material


----------



## Leo G

Festool says 3rd party items might void the warranty of the dust extractor. It is aimed at the Oneida Dust Deputy but the way it is written could be called on any 3rd party item.


----------



## Calidecks

I have to ask if the bigger hose is better why would they supply the vac with an inferior hose? Better yet why even offer an inferior hose?


----------



## Calidecks

Leo G said:


> Festool says 3rd party items might void the warranty of the dust extractor. It is aimed at the Oneida Dust Deputy but the way it is written could be called on any 3rd party item.


Well if the hose doesnt cause the vac to fail what they don't know won't hurt me


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Leo G said:


> Festool says 3rd party items might void the warranty of the dust extractor. It is aimed at the Oneida Dust Deputy but the way it is written could be called on any 3rd party item.


 :shutup: I'm not sayin notin :shutup:


----------



## Calidecks

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> :shutup: I'm not sayin notin :shutup:


That's okay you don't need to DWB. I agree with you.

I got the saw, because it's lighter and still cuts 6" or so crown with a ten inch blade, so there's less deflection. I got the vac because I'm doing a 1400 s.f. floor right now. I can set up in the home. Also less dust in backyard pools when I'm doing decks. But that's all the green chit I'm eating.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> I have to ask if the bigger hose is better why would they supply the vac with an inferior hose? Better yet why even offer an inferior hose?


The 27mm hose works with all the tools. You do not need a 36mm hose on a sander and it would be cumbersome. The 36mm hose is meant for the tools that make a large volume of dust or chips, such as their routers, hand planer, Kapex and the rail saws. 

You can use the 27mm hose with the kapex, it fits inside the DC port, but you will notice the difference between it and the 36mm.


----------



## rrk

Californiadecks said:


> Gove me one good reason not to use this hose. It was 100 bucks cheaper. Works better then the one supplied by festool.


Is it an anti static hose?
In my shop I have a fein vac and hose on my track saw and I have to spray it with static guard every so often


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> Here it is
> 
> View attachment 93722
> 
> 
> Same Damn material


I use the same hose on my vac...love that hose.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> I use the same hose on my vac...love that hose.


It's a great hose. Looks like the same material as festool. It was only 30 bucks


----------



## duburban

darn, i just spent big bucks to get me some big green hose. is that the bosch? i'm really interested in their new vacuums that aren't in the states yet.


----------



## duburban

BCConstruction said:


> Doing some work on me own place and gave the CMS a work out with some larger size material for some cabinets. Works a treat.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 93719
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 93720


whats the project?


----------



## Calidecks

duburban said:


> darn, i just spent big bugs to get me some big green hose. is that the bosch? i'm really interested in their new vacuums that aren't in the states yet.


It's a ridgid. It fit perfect.


----------



## duburban

Californiadecks said:


> It's a ridgid. It fit perfect.


i'm all nervous about anti static so just got the green.


----------



## overanalyze

This might make the hardcore Festools fans queasy...but it works well...someday I might make the jump on the vac but for now this does a great job.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Yeah, cant twist a stack with a few sortainers or they will end up every where 

Still had no issues with those rubber latches on the roll board.


----------



## overanalyze

Ok fan clubbers, I am going to finally start building my boys bunk bed that I posted on here about 9months ago...lol! I was thinking it would be a good excuse to try out a new sander. What would be a better general purpose the Rotex 125 or ets 125? It will be used for mostly basic finish sanding of sheet goods and s4s stock.


----------



## parkside

I absolutely love my rotex 125, I never knew how much I would use the locked gear mode until I bought it. It's nice having both functions on the sander and you will quickly find more uses for your sander than just light finish work.


----------



## tjbnwi

The ETS is much gentler on the sheet goods veneer. The Rotex in gear mode is aggressive and in RO mode more aggressive than the ETS. Dust extraction at the proper setting is a must to get the most out of these sanders. 

The Rotex has a learning curve, you'll hate it before you love it, or throw it through a wall. The ETS needs about 8 hours of run time to set the brake.

Paper 80-400 Granat, or 80-180 Granat then 220-400 Brilliant2. Do not skip gritts when sanding. 

One more thing, consider adding a DTS or RTS to get in the corners------or the RO 90.

Damn its a slippery slope.

Planex owners---------Would you mind trying the CT with the fleece bag in it while using the Planex? I just did it and had no issues with the CT. I'll report my results once others have tried it. If no one is willing to try it, I'll share my experience.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> The ETS is much gentler on the sheet goods veneer. The Rotex in gear mode is aggressive and in RO mode more aggressive than the ETS. Dust extraction at the proper setting is a must to get the most out of these sanders.
> 
> The Rotex has a learning curve, you'll hate it before you love it, or throw it through a wall. The ETS needs about 8 hours of run time to set the brake.
> 
> Paper 80-400 Granat, or 80-180 Granat then 220-400 Brilliant2. Do not skip gritts when sanding.
> 
> One more thing, consider adding a DTS or RTS to get in the corners------or the RO 90.
> 
> Damn its a slippery slope.
> 
> Planex owners---------Would you mind trying the CT with the fleece bag in it while using the Planex? I just did it and had no issues with the CT. I'll report my results once others have tried it. If no one is willing to try it, I'll share my experience.
> 
> Tom


Why do you want to use a bag in the CT with the planex? I tried it the first time around with the bundled bag and it seemed to work ok. Just like it did on my standard 26 suction wise but after using it without the bag and just the plastic bags it's suction was much better from empty to full. The AC prob won't do nothing to clean the bags out like it does to clean the filter out and hence the reason I lost a lot of suction over the course of filling the bag.


----------



## tjbnwi

I saw no change in the suction with the fleece bag. The bag was as full as full can get when I finished. The fleece bag self cleans every time it collapses. I also liked not having to clean the CT.

Thanks for your input. I'll run it again with the liner, see if I notice a change. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> I saw no change in the suction with the fleece bag. The bag was as full as full can get when I finished. The fleece bag self cleans every time it collapses. I also liked not having to clean the CT.
> 
> Thanks for your input. I'll run it again with the liner, see if I notice a change.
> 
> Tom


The problem seemed to be when the dust compacts against the bag. I lifted of my top a few times just to see if dust was getting past the bag as I was worried about the filter getting dusty and the bag was shaped like it was 100% full but when I pushed down on it it was less than 30% full. The dust seems to stop the bags from collapsing and then freeing up the dust from them. I didn't notice how much suction I had lost until I removed that bag and used the standard ones. It was night and day difference.


----------



## tjbnwi

I did remove the top twice. The bag was collapsed as it normally would be. Not sure why yours did what it did. The AC on mine still cycled the same as if the liner was in it. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> I did remove the top twice. The bag was collapsed as it normally would be. Not sure why yours did what it did. The AC on mine still cycled the same as if the liner was in it.
> 
> Tom


Humidity is always through the roof when I use my planex and mud is never 100% dry. Even 20min takes more than 30hrs to completely dry out and there's a lot of moister in the air as I use my extractor to pull in air from outside which also don't help with how damp the mud is. If I was sucking up 100% dry mud then the bag may have worked. When I do a clean after a full bag my filter is clogged solid. So much so that it comes out in shapes the same shape as the filter lol.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yeah, cant twist a stack with a few sortainers or they will end up every where
> 
> Still had no issues with those rubber latches on the roll board.


I was in Woodcrafter today and saw Warners mug on the new TS brochure :laughing:


----------



## Eric K

Going to pick up a ct26 and 300 barrel jigsaw tomorrow. I can tell this is going to be more expensive than a drug habit. At least I can make money with this habit.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Eric K said:


> Going to pick up a ct26 and 300 barrel jigsaw tomorrow. I can tell this is going to be more expensive than a drug habit. At least I can make money with this habit.


Wait for the new jigsaws. They ain't many months away.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> Wait for the new jigsaws. They ain't many months away.


Personally, I would rather have the barrel grip trion over the carvex. 

I don't need all the fancy stuff that the carved comes with or does.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I was in Woodcrafter today and saw Warners mug on the new TS brochure :laughing:


Is woodcrafter like woodcraft? My best mates always in woodcraft Hawaii. Is woodcrafter better or worse?


----------



## Eric K

I prefer the barrel grip also. Plus the 300 has an adjustable base where with the carvex you have to change bases. I was going to go with the ts55. Was going to get the demo for 15% off but decided on the jigsaw. I think ill use that more than the track saw as I have a full cabinet shop.


----------



## Calidecks

Eric K said:


> I prefer the barrel grip also. Plus the 300 has an adjustable base where with the carvex you have to change bases. I was going to go with the ts55. Was going to get the demo for 15% off but decided on the jigsaw. I think ill use that more than the track saw as I have a full cabinet shop.


I would probably buy one if it had a light


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

BCConstruction said:


> Is woodcrafter like woodcraft? My best mates always in woodcraft Hawaii. Is woodcrafter better or worse?


OHhhh it's the same place:blink: I added the er:whistling


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> OHhhh it's the same place:blink: I added the er:whistling


Keep an eye out when your on your journeys for a English guy called Nathan. He does a lot if work for Armstrong on some silly high end homes. He moved from England like I did about 2 years ago to there.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

I'm sending the Barrel grip back (no speed control with that on/off switch vs. the trigger) and keeping the D-handle.

I personally can't wait for the Carvex. It looks sick. Something like 9' on the circle cutting guide. My guy says early next year at best.

BTW, So far the Ti15 is crushing it. I drove 100+ 3 1/2" GRK's and about (20) 4" GRK structurals with no problems. Killed it and asked for more. I'll keep updating.


----------



## David7586

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I'm sending the Barrel grip back (no speed control with that on/off switch vs. the trigger) and keeping the D-handle.
> 
> I personally can't wait for the Carvex. It looks sick. Something like 9' on the circle cutting guide. My guy says early next year at best.
> 
> BTW, So far the Ti15 is crushing it. I drove 100+ 3 1/2" GRK's and about (20) 4" GRK structurals with no problems. Killed it and asked for more.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Inner10 said:


> Take it back and buy the drill...the ti-15 is a joke.


 I got the CXS and it is amazing. I liked it so much that we ended up ordering 2 more the next day, but my impact is the tool that I use the most. I just can't see another without impact capability....like the T or C15. 

When it works....it performs very well. 

But this shutdown is happening on a full charge.

Ef it, I'm gonna try another one. I am too invested in the idea of it to turn back now.


----------



## duburban

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I got the CXS and it is amazing. I liked it so much that we ended up ordering 2 more the next day, but my impact is the tool that I use the most. I just can't see another without impact capability....like the T or C15.
> 
> When it works....it performs very well.
> 
> But this shutdown is happening on a full charge.
> 
> Ef it, I'm gonna try another one. I am too invested in the idea of it to turn back now.


don't get your hopes up! 800 inlbs is it. combine that with the auto shut down and you trying to get some serious work out of it and its going to click off on you.


----------



## moorewarner

Since I made a fool of myself a mere three pages ago I am a little leery of posting this buuut...

60-90 seconds to put a 45 bevel on a 2x10... something else about the Kapex I am not getting quite yet.

I'll be back later to puzzle it out.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

What are you cutting framing lumber on it for?


----------



## Alska101

WarnerConstInc. said:


> What are you cutting framing lumber on it for?


I know.. I have a crappy Dewalt for framing lumber. Festool is for finish.
I dont even let my employees use the koolaid. They wonder why.. well the dropped a compresser yesterday and still don know why!


----------



## moorewarner

WarnerConstInc. said:


> What are you cutting framing lumber on it for?




Is this a trick question?

Because I had framing lumber to cut, that should have been much easier and faster on a 10" slider than having to flip to cut on my non-slider.

It hadn't really occured to me that my $1300 saw would have a problem with wood that every other saw a fraction of it's price would plow through.

Still hoping that's not the case. I really don't want to *have* to have a second saw for larger stock.


----------



## Alska101

So when is is the green coming out with a oscillating tool?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

A 45 bevel through a 2x10 can be though for the saw. Twi things to make it quicker and easier, use the clamp on the off cut (if possible) good support for the work piece and the 60t blade is not ideal. Need less teeth. I usually use my side winder gor framing lumber and cut off the stack.


----------



## Alska101

WarnerConstInc. said:


> A 45 bevel through a 2x10 can be though for the saw. Twi things to make it quicker and easier, use the clamp on the off cut (if possible) good support for the work piece and the 60t blade is not ideal. Need less teeth. I usually use my side winder gor framing lumber and cut off the stack.


Agreed


----------



## Inner10

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I got the CXS and it is amazing. I liked it so much that we ended up ordering 2 more the next day, but my impact is the tool that I use the most. I just can't see another without impact capability....like the T or C15.
> 
> When it works....it performs very well.
> 
> But this shutdown is happening on a full charge.
> 
> Ef it, I'm gonna try another one. I am too invested in the idea of it to turn back now.


It's underpowered.

For an impact it's a little weak but it works, for a drill it's weak to the point of useless...you can't drill anything larger than a 1/2" hole without it shutting down. They shouldn't have even produced it with the "drill" feature it's so incredibly weak.

At 600 bucks for the set it's a complete rip off.

Panasonic has had a hybrid for a while but it suffers the same problem as the Festool...(except it's stronger) the drill feature doesn't have enough torque.



moorewarner said:


> Since I made a fool of myself a mere three pages ago I am a little leery of posting this buuut...
> 
> 60-90 seconds to put a 45 bevel on a 2x10... something else about the Kapex I am not getting quite yet.
> 
> I'll be back later to puzzle it out.


It's a nice piece but like the TS55 it lacks stonk...probably because if it was any more powerful it would blow the breaker with the vac plugged in.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's a nice piece but like the TS55 it lacks stonk...probably because if it was any more powerful it would blow the breaker with the vac plugged in.[/QUOTE]


Not true. The 75 draws more current, of2200 router draws more current. 

Festool has always put an emphasis on using the right blade for the task, hence all the different blades they make.


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's a nice piece but like the TS55 it lacks stonk...probably because if it was any more powerful it would blow the breaker with the vac plugged in.



Not true. The 75 draws more current, of2200 router draws more current. 

Festool has always put an emphasis on using the right blade for the task, hence all the different blades they make.[/QUOTE]

Well that's just dandy...but would it really hurt to put a little more grunt in the gear?

I was really jazzed to get the ti-15 until I tried it. If they had a drill/impact set for the same price I'd probably have it in my hands now.


----------



## Cgh

Which Track saw has more "stonk" for you guys , the new TS55 Req or the Makita SP6000k ? I'm looking to get either one for cutting mostly 1/4" - 1/2" and 3/4" splinter free lots of 45* angles , thanks in advance.


----------



## Alska101

That right use the proper blade. Is not you old skill saw with the original blade. The blade change is so fast why not change. My guys think I am nuts to change my blade ever task I do. Buy evey blade they make for you model and switch when you need too. Heck buy two of each, there cheap. Lol


----------



## WilsonRMDL

Cgh said:


> Which Track saw has more "stonk" for you guys , the new TS55 Req or the Makita SP6000k ? I'm looking to get either one for cutting mostly 1/4" - 1/2" and 3/4" splinter free lots of 45* angles , thanks in advance.


My makita cuts 3/4" birch and MDF all day, also cuts corian countertops just fine and doesn't really ever bog down


----------



## tjbnwi

6/4 cherry
6/4 mahogany
8/4 quater sawn white oak.

Have yet to find something I could not cut with my TS 55, that includes cement board and siding. 

(Seeing as Darcy has mentioned the blades a few times) All of this was ripped with the 28 tooth blade. I also have the Panther 12 tooth blade when I need to do some serious ripping. 

A clean blade is a must.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The stock 55 blade is 48 teeth, common sense should tell you it is not really ment to rip lumber with. Great for cross cutting or for ply.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Is it mandatory to be fan to post here, or ..let me ask you this,,,,...what if your sitting on the fence.....does that count,. How about ....semi-interested,..what about having some reservations ...(that sounds bad-).:blink:


Should I expect to be receiving some unwelcome leather with a steel covered toe heading my way......:blink: 






B,


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Just buy the damn thing B, your back and small shop will thank you. 

Hell, I got plenty of room, but I hate wrestling sheets of ply around


----------



## TimelessQuality

You can always paint it Oliver green....


----------



## PrestigeR&D

:laughing:






B,


----------



## Alska101

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Just buy the damn thing B, your back and small shop will thank you.
> 
> Hell, I got plenty of room, but I hate wrestling sheets of ply around


I will second that! I put off buying my ts75 for two years, when I finally git it.. it was like heaven. I had 4 counter tops to do that week and 5 cabinets to make and it went by so fast and painless. Did not screw up one cut. And if I went that fast with my old saw I would have screwed up at lest two cuts. And did not use my table saw once. I still have a table saw but use it very little now.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Probably is great , but I have my own plans for that.....


Although...the Domino is one machine I do have my eye on.....



B,


----------



## Alska101

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Just buy the damn thing B, your back and small shop will thank you.
> 
> Hell, I got plenty of room, but I hate wrestling sheets of ply around


I will second that! I put off buying my ts75 for two years, when I finally git it.. it was like heaven. I had 4 counter tops to do that week and 5 cabinets to make and it went by so fast and painless. Did not screw up one cut. And if I went that fast with my old saw I would have screwed up at lest two cuts. And did not use my table saw once. I still have a table saw but use it very little now. Sand free edges... just take the plunge. ...


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Probably is great , but I have my own plans for that.....


Although...the Domino is one machine I do have my eye on.....



B,:blink:


----------



## Calidecks

I recently ordered an 80t Tenyru blade for my kapex, from tenryusawblades.com has anyone ever ordered from these guys before? There website is down and after paying for the blade I never got a confirmation email from them


----------



## Calidecks

What's this on the kapex?


----------



## Alska101

Californiadecks said:


> What's this on the kapex?


Its a special cut off switch so if you cut off the mark it will automatically shut down id there is blade deflection. .. lol


----------



## Calidecks

Alska101 said:


> Its a special cut off switch so if you cut off the mark it will automatically shut down id there is blade deflection. .. lol


Kewl


----------



## Calidecks

Alska101 said:


> Its a special cut off switch so if you cut off the mark it will automatically shut down id there is blade deflection. .. lol


So now back to the question


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's just a stop for that part, push the part up, it stops it.


----------



## Alska101

Sorry just had a long bad day and am needing a few laughs and to have fun. My guy the morons that they are covered a cold air return in a old houes with masking paper. And I was going along spraying texture and well my foot found the hole.. then sprayed 9 hours on a twisted ankle and arm and shoulder that I should go and see if it fractured. So I need a laugh and whiskey.


----------



## Alska101

Californiadecks said:


> I recently ordered an 80t Tenyru blade for my kapex, from tenryusawblades.com has anyone ever ordered from these guys before? There website is down and after paying for the blade I never got a confirmation email from them


I know I was looking at the site and then its gone.


----------



## Calidecks

Alska101 said:


> I know I was looking at the site and then its gone.


They called me this morning and said they were doing site maintenance. They did ship my new tenryu blade, I hope it is worth the money. Got 80t festool compatible blade for it. I also got the two blade festool deal a 60t and an 80t from my yard for 195.00


----------



## Alska101

Californiadecks said:


> They called me this morning and said they were doing site maintenance. They did ship my new tenryu blade, I hope it is worth the money. Got 80t festool compatible blade for it. I also got the two blade festool deal a 60t and an 80t from my yard for 195.00


Score! Let me know hiw that blade works out.


----------



## Calidecks

Alska101 said:


> Sorry just had a long bad day and am needing a few laughs and to have fun. My guy the morons that they are covered a cold air return in a old houes with masking paper. And I was going along spraying texture and well my foot found the hole.. then sprayed 9 hours on a twisted ankle and arm and shoulder that I should go and see if it fractured. So I need a laugh and whiskey.


Makers Mark is great medication for that


----------



## Alska101

Californiadecks said:


> Makers Mark is great medication for that


Or pink slips...lol


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Carvex officially announced for September 1st.

http://www.festooljigsaws.com/


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

That's not so far away. That's def on my list


----------



## moorewarner

Have they finally gotten all of the Carvex issues sorted out?


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

This is getting a little insane.

We loved the Kapex so much, and I felt so bad about having mine, I bought another one for my buddy as a bonus for doing this job with me. And I used to say "Who needs a $$$$ miter saw?".

I think I may take the one with the UGcart, mobility wins over table space.

Barrel jig and D-handle went back in lieu of Impending Carvex release......wasn't that blown away by them either (not that they really got "tested").

One of the Booms goes back, too cumbersome for me. One is fine for prolonged site work., I guess I assumed I would put the other on the Midi.....duh. Didn't realize how much space they took up. 40$ vac hose holder thing instead.

I can't believe how much I love the Workcenter.....biggest surprise, besides how badass the CXS is.

Haven't used the MFK yet....excited to get through tile into some trim and built-ins to try it out.



I got KoolAid all over my face and running down my shirt......


----------



## donerightwyo

BRG, you got any systainers?:blink:


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

donerightwyo said:


> BRG, you got any systainers?:blink:


 Sure, ....you just gotta wipe your feet on the 
FestoolMat (Gangledubenshclugle) before approaching the towers of power. 

My buddy assured me that he will shoot me in the face if he finds out that I redid my bedroom closet with Sortainers and SysPorts. He figures it would be a sure sign that I have completely lost my mind.


----------



## rrk

$350 is that correct and $4something for kit?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> This is getting a little insane.
> 
> We loved the Kapex so much, and I felt so bad about having mine, I bought another one for my buddy as a bonus for doing this job with me. And I used to say "Who needs a $$$$ miter saw?".
> 
> I think I may take the one with the UGcart, mobility wins over table space.
> 
> Barrel jig and D-handle went back in lieu of Impending Carvex release......wasn't that blown away by them either (not that they really got "tested").
> 
> One of the Booms goes back, too cumbersome for me. One is fine for prolonged site work., I guess I assumed I would put the other on the Midi.....duh. Didn't realize how much space they took up. 40$ vac hose holder thing instead.
> 
> I can't believe how much I love the Workcenter.....biggest surprise, besides how badass the CXS is.
> 
> Haven't used the MFK yet....excited to get through tile into some trim and built-ins to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> I got KoolAid all over my face and running down my shirt......


Do you pack your tools up every night on jobs? If not then i would def go with the MFT Kapex. But if your in and out in a day and further than 200ft to walk the kit then the UG stand will be great. 

My saw has stayed setup for 5 weeks now in the same exact place. the extra work surface to stand stuff def heads. but i also have the shelf i made that connects to the MFT so i can store even more bits and pieces. 

I love the work station but i cant make that work in my trailer setup. once my workshop is built sometime this century i will def be getting one of them.


----------



## mobiledynamics

Anybody use the Oshulum blades for the Kapex. Just working with some mela. and it's not going to be often....so I was looking at the Oshulun blade for the Kapex


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

BCConstruction said:


> Do you pack your tools up every night on jobs? If not then i would def go with the MFT Kapex. But if your in and out in a day and further than 200ft to walk the kit then the UG stand will be great.
> 
> My saw has stayed setup for 5 weeks now in the same exact place. the extra work surface to stand stuff def heads. but i also have the shelf i made that connects to the MFT so i can store even more bits and pieces.
> 
> I love the work station but i cant make that work in my trailer setup. once my workshop is built sometime this century i will def be getting one of them.


 That's the tough part. I do some 3 - 5 week stuff, and some 5 month + jobs. That's why I got both. We'll switch when necessary or I'll use part of my Boom/Ti 15 credit to get myself the cart.

I am about to get a trailer and have been going over in my head how I will set it up. I have some decent ideas for storing all the guide rails, slots for the MFT's .....etc, etc.

Had a line on a barely used 6x12 (couple weeks old), but it turned out to have a ramp instead of barn doors. I'm set on the rear dividing wall with all my rolling cases (tile tools..etc.) in the back and cords and hoses hanging on the doors,

That's also why I love the Sys/Sortainers and SysCarts. Alleviates the need and weight of a bunch shelving. Seems like it will be much easier to get it all neatly and efficiently organized.

I remember seeing a partial shot of your trailer once......?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> That's the tough part. I do some 3 - 5 week stuff, and some 5 month + jobs. That's why I got both. We'll switch when necessary or I'll use part of my Boom/Ti 15 credit to get myself the cart.
> 
> I am about to get a trailer and have been going over in my head how I will set it up. I have some decent ideas for storing all the guide rails, slots for the MFT's .....etc, etc.
> 
> Had a line on a barely used 6x12 (couple weeks old), but it turned out to have a ramp instead of barn doors. I'm set on the rear dividing wall with all my rolling cases (tile tools..etc.) in the back and cords and hoses hanging on the doors,
> 
> That's also why I love the Sys/Sortainers and SysCarts. Alleviates the need and weight of a bunch shelving. Seems like it will be much easier to get it all neatly and efficiently organized.
> 
> I remember seeing a partial shot of your trailer once......?


If I was you I would def go bigger than 6x12 looks like we have about the same amount of festool kit and I'm running out of room fast. I do have a lot of other stuff in my trailer tool wise but I'm sure you will also. Hanging the MFT's of the doors works well. I have 3 of them now and they don't take up any valuable floor space. 

I will get some updated pics as I arranged it a little the last couple weeks.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Here's a quick few I took so you have an idea.


----------



## Five Star

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> This is getting a little insane.
> 
> We loved the Kapex so much, and I felt so bad about having mine, I bought another one for my buddy as a bonus for doing this job with me. And I used to say "Who needs a $$$$ miter saw?".
> 
> I think I may take the one with the UGcart, mobility wins over table space.
> 
> Barrel jig and D-handle went back in lieu of Impending Carvex release......wasn't that blown away by them either (not that they really got "tested").
> 
> One of the Booms goes back, too cumbersome for me. One is fine for prolonged site work., I guess I assumed I would put the other on the Midi.....duh. Didn't realize how much space they took up. 40$ vac hose holder thing instead.
> 
> I can't believe how much I love the Workcenter.....biggest surprise, besides how badass the CXS is.
> 
> Haven't used the MFK yet....excited to get through tile into some trim and built-ins to try it out.
> 
> I got KoolAid all over my face and running down my shirt......


Damn you sure your not related to BC with all those sustainers in the back round


----------



## rrk

BCConstruction said:


> Here's a quick few I took so you have an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 95010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 95011
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 95012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 95013


How do you easily get to the ones in the middle or on the bottom of the stack?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

rrk said:


> How do you easily get to the ones in the middle or on the bottom of the stack?


The T-locs make that pretty easy. I would think Barri has his stacks organized into task specific stacks. That is what I do with mine, but I only have a few T-locs, I am old school classic systainer cool. :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The T-locs make that pretty easy. I would think Barri has his stacks organized into task specific stacks. That is what I do with mine, but I only have a few T-locs, I am old school classic systainer cool. :laughing:


Like Darcy says I have them sorted into task specific systainers and the t-locs are able to be removed from the middle of a section very easily.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

donerightwyo said:


> BRG, you got any systainers?:blink:





BCConstruction said:


> Here's a quick few I took so you have an idea.


You guys make me sick:jester:


----------



## sancho

BCConstruction said:


> So here it is. A thread especially for the koolaid drinking fanboyz.
> 
> Lets see your Festool setups and projects your using these tools on.
> 
> Here's my new toy all setup.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90473
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90474
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90475
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90477
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90476
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90478
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90479
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90480
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90481
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 90482


Sir, 

Did you ever write a review on the TS 75 CMS module. I am considering getting one.

So what you think? 

How accurate a cut do you get with it?

Ease of use dust collection etc…

Thanks


----------



## RCCIdaho

...


----------



## tjbnwi

The TS 55 EQ new with rail and Sys 4 is $550.00

The Sys 4 is $78.00 plus the cost of the insert.

The 1400 rail is $115.00. 

Up to you if it is worth it.

Tom


----------



## CarpenterSFO

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> .. He figures it would be a sure sign that I have completely lost my mind.


That train already left the station, judging by those pictures.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

RCCIdaho said:


> Browsing the local FB page that is for selling / buying stuff and I noticed a guy has a TS 55 for sale. I messaged him about it and he says it's been used a few times but mostly sat in his garage. Price is $300...
> 
> No track, no systainer, nada. Just the saw itself. Is this still a good deal? (Dependent on visual inspection of course)


No track, no systainer? Tell him you want the serial number so you can find out if it was stolen. If he's legit, he'll have no problem with that.


----------



## sancho

CarpenterSFO said:


> No track, no systainer? Tell him you want the serial number so you can find out if it was stolen. If he's legit, he'll have no problem with that.


I saw a guy on facebook once, that had a TS 75 with systainer that was it for about $300 bucks, 
I didnt get because I thought it was hot to


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy




----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Ok so im def gonna need a bigger trailer now or have a major rework inside mine. Here's a little taster of things to come. See this over on FOG


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Whoah. Daddy likey. Where on FOG are those? Any more details?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

And here comes the protool stuff in its new clothes.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I def like them in festool green over that orange color. Darcy what's happening to protool after all this?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

There will be no more Protool as far as I know.


----------



## moorewarner

Got a linky on that BC?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

moorewarner said:


> Got a linky on that BC?


There's a few threads running on the tools and accessories sub forum on fog


----------



## john5mt

BCConstruction said:


> Ok so im def gonna need a bigger trailer now or have a major rework inside mine. Here's a little taster of things to come. See this over on FOG


Oh crap!!!!!

I don't have money for this!


----------



## moorewarner

john5mt said:


> Oh crap!!!!!
> 
> I don't have money for this!


If you need extra dough you can give plasma I think at least twice a month. :whistling

So there's that... :laughing:


----------



## Calidecks

Is that an 18v impact driver in that picture?


----------



## Brian Peters

Californiadecks said:


> Is that an 18v impact driver in that picture?


Looks to me like a hammer drill...


----------



## Calidecks

I would be interested in an 18 v impact possibly an impact drill hybrid. From what I've read the 15v they make isn't very powerful and keeps shutting down due to heat. This is just stuff I've read on this forum, but its stopping me from buying it.


----------



## john5mt

Is that one thing a track...chain....saw


That other thing I was thinking was a cordless rotary hammer


----------



## Rustbucket

john5mt said:


> Is that one thing a track...chain....saw
> 
> That other thing I was thinking was a cordless rotary hammer


Looks like a beam saw to me.


----------



## rrk

BCConstruction said:


> Ok so im def gonna need a bigger trailer now or have a major rework inside mine. Here's a little taster of things to come. See this over on FOG


You must be "sportin wood" just lookin at those pictures


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> I would be interested in an 18 v impact possibly an impact drill hybrid. From what I've read the 15v they make isn't very powerful and keeps shutting down due to heat. This is just stuff I've read on this forum, but its stopping me from buying it.


It's the combination part that makes it suck...decent impact garbage drill.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Inner10 said:


> It's the combination part that makes it suck...decent impact garbage drill.


Pretty sure Darcy said even the guys at Festool didn't like it.

That tool box and the hammer drill look great.


----------



## Inner10

Clarke Carpentry said:


> Pretty sure Darcy said even the guys at Festool didn't like it.
> 
> That tool box and the hammer drill look great.


No one likes it...


----------



## Alska101

Yes please. ..


----------



## BBuild

StrongTower said:


> I really want to know more about that beam saw a couple pages back....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W1wzrUbHgM&feature=youtu.be


----------



## Spencer

EricBrancard said:


> Just go buy a box of vacuum bags for a CT26 and you can join the club :thumbup:


I have the RAS and about 8 systainers. Track saw and dominoe are next on the list but for right now I have the capability to get by without them even though its not as fast. 

To many other specialty tools i need to acquire that I can't get by without as easily. I don't think there is a day that goes by that I don't come across something that the track saw would be nice for. Oh well, the day will be all the sweeter when it finally arrives. 

I just dropped some good coin on a log splitter, couple nail guns, clam clamps, and I'll be needing a flooring nailer soon as well. No track saw for a while...


----------



## Deckhead

The ts75 is nice and I'm glad I have it (first of my festool tools) but I was reluctant on the domino and it almost paid for itself in 8hrs of work.

I've done a few roofs with 3x6 double t&g pine roof decks, one with 6x12 oak rafters and that beam saw sure would have paid for itself in a matter of a couple cuts. 

My advice is if you have a job where it'd be useful is buy it even if it means no profit on this job because it will pay dividends larger than you thought later.


----------



## Alska101

Spencer said:


> I have the RAS and about 8 systainers. Track saw and dominoe are next on the list but for right now I have the capability to get by without them even though its not as fast.
> 
> To many other specialty tools i need to acquire that I can't get by without as easily. I don't think there is a day that goes by that I don't come across something that the track saw would be nice for. Oh well, the day will be all the sweeter when it finally arrives.
> 
> I just dropped some good coin on a log splitter, couple nail guns, clam clamps, and I'll be needing a flooring nailer soon as well. No track saw for a while...


Get the saw.. forget the profit and just spend... I did it and well like he said it will pay dividends over and over. .. I will never be without one know.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Clarke Carpentry said:


> Watch the video for Benny Benassi - Satisfaction (sorta NSFW). They should remake that with Festools.
> 
> Actually, let me see if I can get this to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, Nope.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Hey I just embedded it


----------



## StrongTower

That beam saw would be awesome, especially when the guy next door is cutting with the big Makita 16" circ saw. He'd look over and think "what the???"


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Hey I just embedded it


How did you do that?


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

StrongTower said:


> That beam saw would be awesome, especially when the guy next door is cutting with the big Makita 16" circ saw. He'd look over and think "what the???"


Yea but the Makita beam saw been around for the last 40 years:laughing:


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Clarke Carpentry said:


> How did you do that?


I took out this part V5bYDhZBFLA and put in in here







............................



+
YouTube Video









ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

I still like mine more:whistling
American made tool rigged up on a American made saw:clap:


----------



## StrongTower

My buddy still gets everyone to stop what they're doing, when he starts this saw up. It does do a great job....just a lot of blade there...


----------



## StrongTower

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I still like mine more:whistling
> American made tool rigged up on a American made saw:clap:


That a Prazi attachment?


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

What :blink: R we going off topic:blink:


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

StrongTower said:


> That a Prazi attachment?


:no: It's a liner Link


----------



## StrongTower

Very nice... Never seen that one before. 


I really do like the track guided concept. Sure works great for my 55. Boosts the ego, knowing that the cut is perfectly straight.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

I just noticed that my 55" track is warped. 

Not by a lot, but there's a very gentle S shape to it. Not very happy.


----------



## ROVACON

Clarke Carpentry said:


> I just noticed that my 55" track is warped.
> 
> Not by a lot, but there's a very gentle S shape to it. Not very happy.


That's for making those irregular curved cuts. No jig saw required :laughing:


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

ROVACON said:


> That's for making those irregular curved cuts. No jig saw required :laughing:


:laughing: It's not funny.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

How long you had this track? And what way is the bend. Along the cut or on the flat


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

I think about a year. It's along the cut. On the flat it's as straight as it's always been.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

What length is it? I bet its hard to bend them things along the cut as they are so wide. Must have been like this from new.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

BCConstruction said:


> What length is it? I bet its hard to bend them things along the cut as they are so wide. Must have been like this from new.


55". It was definitely straight when I bought it. It's like it's deformed over time or something. It's a very natural looking bend if that makes sense. I'm wondering if at some point one end got heated up sitting in the sun or something.


----------



## Derry

Got this today,great drill much better than the Hilti. Can't wait for the new chainsaw, out here next month.


----------



## john27

Derry said:


> Got this today,great drill much better than the Hilti. Can't wait for the new chainsaw, out here next month.


Why is it better than the Hilti?

John..


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Derry said:


> Got this today,great drill much better than the Hilti. Can't wait for the new chainsaw, out here next month.


Holly chit man! Is that framing or finish work? Clear – vertical grain – framing lumber?   I could frame like you if I had that lumber to work with! :laughing:


----------



## Derry

John it has the same power as the Hilti 22v but its much lighter and better balanced and the main reason I bought it was the holder for heads.


----------



## Derry

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Holly chit man! Is that framing or finish work? Clear &#150; vertical grain &#150; framing lumber?   I could frame like you if I had that lumber to work with! :laughing:


It's both the timber is sapele very similar to mahogany really nice to work with.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Nice work, not to get off topic but what roof sheathing material is going over the roof framing.....:blink:


Why no overhangs.....(soffit) :blink:





B,


----------



## PrestigeR&D

A Chain saw to cut 2x's .....:blink:


Personally..... Unless you need to cut anything above 3.5- continuously through out the year,,,,,well....

It may sit and collect dust instead of producing it.........

How many times does solid beam const get a call...?




B.( utterly blown away)... By what...?


----------



## Derry

Mahogany sheeting,6" insulation ,3/4 OSB and standing seam copper. Sofit lookouts will get put on after mahogany sheeting.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Waist of money on the sheathing (IMPO).......your covering up mahogany ply/veneer ....why?..:blink: 
Y
Might as well go with the standard CDX. 3/4... Makes no sense....:blink:


B,


----------



## Derry

No it's 3" tgv sheeting on top of the rafters.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

john27 said:


> Why is it better than the Hilti?
> 
> John..


Because Dewalt and ryobi are better coddless tools than hilti :laughing:


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Underneath the rafters ...interior wood skin.... now I got it.....:thumbsup:at least...that's the way I am interpreting it...



You would hate my contracts.....:laughing:




B,


----------



## Derry

BCConstruction said:


> Because Dewalt and ryobi are better coddless tools than hilti :laughing:


I haven't had any problem with my Hilti's the last one lasted 4 years and it had a hard life driving 8 x 340 mm screws.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Derry said:


> I haven't had any problem with my Hilti's the last one lasted 4 years and it had a hard life driving 8 x 340 mm screws.


I ain't a fan of them. They are over priced and don't offer anything the other brands do in performance and quality. My Makita has lasted 6+ years of abuse. 2 of them years was core drilling 4" holes through brick and block installing soil pipes. 

You won't go wrong with that festool though. A least you get what you pay for on their tools.


----------



## Derry

Picked up my last Hilti 22v for 220 euro which is cheaper than a comparable dewalt. Hilti have some really good deals over here.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Derry said:


> Picked up my last Hilti 22v for 220 euro which is cheaper than a comparable dewalt. Hilti have some really good deals over here.


They have def come down in price since I was living in the UK. That price is more in line of what they should be now. You won't see them in the US for that price though.


----------



## sancho

BCConstruction said:


> I ain't a fan of them. They are over priced and don't offer anything the other brands do in performance and quality. My Makita has lasted 6+ years of abuse. 2 of them years was core drilling 4" holes through brick and block installing soil pipes.
> 
> You won't go wrong with that festool though. A least you get what you pay for on their tools.


One thing about the UK is that the festools arent fixed price there as they are in the states. You can manage to find some pretty good deals. Lots of times one can haggle the price down or they'll throw in extra items ect. yes they are still pricey, but the price can be negotiable.

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/browse.php/section/10230/level/4

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/browse.php/section/9754/level/4


----------



## Calidecks

sancho said:


> One thing about the UK is that the festools arent fixed price there as they are n te states. You can manage to find some pretty good deals. Lots of times one can haggle the price down or they'll throw in extra items ect. yes they are still pricey, but the price can be negotiable.


Dude, are really a master hack? How long did it take to get good at that?


----------



## sancho

About 19 years and still developing how to screw things up even faster


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

sancho said:


> One thing about the UK is that the festools arent fixed price there as they are in the states. You can manage to find some pretty good deals. Lots of times one can haggle the price down or they'll throw in extra items ect. yes they are still pricey, but the price can be negotiable.
> 
> http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/browse.php/section/10230/level/4
> 
> http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/browse.php/section/9754/level/4


That's what we need here is more outlets with competitive pricing:thumbsup:


----------



## sancho

They do things differently in Europe


----------



## john27

The prices in the Uk used to be fixed, until Festool got fined 8 million euros over it. :thumbsup:
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/festool-tts-fined-8-2-million-euros-for-price-fixing-t63731.html

John..


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Well shoots we need some of that action in the states:whistling


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Well shoots we need some of that action in the states:whistling


It prob won't be long. There are plus sides to it though. It keeps resale high as you know that discounttools.com ain't gonna be selling them for 2/3rds what you paid and it keeps the dealers on their toes because people ain't buying on price alone.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> It prob won't be long. There are plus sides to it though. It keeps resale high as you know that discounttools.com ain't gonna be selling them for 2/3rds what you paid and it keeps the dealers on their toes because people ain't buying on price alone.


Good forbid something be sold at the natural equilibrium price point.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

They could sell them for more, just no less then the minimum.


----------



## Spencer

I don't even want to know what the margin is on their stuff. $300 for an 8' track that probably doesn't cost $50 to manufacture.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Spencer said:


> I don't even want to know what the margin is on their stuff. $300 for an 8' track that probably doesn't cost $50 to manufacture.


Well a lot of our prices are cheaper than the European prices on their tools. Yet they have to ship them all the way over here. 

Perhaps if they were made in China to the quality of Chinese tools then they could make them vastly cheaper. But we already have dewalt and Bosch who fill that end of the market. So why would we want another china junk tool?

I think their prices are fair. what did a good skilsaw cost 20+ years ago. I bet vastly more than they do now.


----------



## Brian Peters

I bought a Black & Decker professional sawcat about 20 years ago..130.00 if I remember correctly. And my wages were less than half what they are now.


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They could sell them for more, just no less then the minimum.


That's illegal and called price fixing.


----------



## Inner10

Spencer said:


> I don't even want to know what the margin is on their stuff. $300 for an 8' track that probably doesn't cost $50 to manufacture.


Typically manufacturing is 10% of retail...so it probably costs less than that.

Still they can sell it for whatever they want...just don't strong arm your retailers.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Aluminum extrustions are expensive to make. There are other companys making rails and they all seem to be priced pretty close. Must not be cheap to make.


----------



## Deckhead

All the metal extrusions that I've seen priced (from a local manufacturer who will only do them with no less than a 50k count) are incredibly expensive and only steel. When I bought some 1/4" plate aluminum (higher grade) 12"x12" I paid over $60 per and that's from a wholesaler I have a relationship with, so no $300 isn't all that expensive.


----------



## Rustbucket

Inner10 said:


> Typically manufacturing is 10% of retail...so it probably costs less than that.
> 
> Still they can sell it for whatever they want...just don't strong arm your retailers.


I doubt it's that low. Where did you get that number? I know retail markup is only about 10% on tools. I expect Festool to be a bit higher. Quite a bit! But I think the reasoning behind the pricing model is to guarantee better service from the retailers. If Festool can promise higher margins on more expensive tools, the vendor would probably treat their Festool buying customers better. 

As far as price fixing goes, I don't think this would fall under those regulations. Price fixing is generally in regards to commodity products, or if different manufacturers collude to bring prices up. This is one manufacturer setting the price of their own product. Saturn started doing it with cars, and now Tesla is doing it. Apple does it, as well. Laws in GB are a little different than here, so it may not become an issue for them.


----------



## Clarke Carpentry

I think he's talking about just taking the material and producing the part, none of the other overheads involved in getting the product to consumers.


----------



## Inner10

Rustbucket said:


> I doubt it's that low. Where did you get that number? I know retail markup is only about 10% on tools. I expect Festool to be a bit higher. Quite a bit! But I think the reasoning behind the pricing model is to guarantee better service from the retailers. If Festool can promise higher margins on more expensive tools, the vendor would probably treat their Festool buying customers better.
> 
> As far as price fixing goes, I don't think this would fall under those regulations. Price fixing is generally in regards to commodity products, or if different manufacturers collude to bring prices up. This is one manufacturer setting the price of their own product. Saturn started doing it with cars, and now Tesla is doing it. Apple does it, as well. Laws in GB are a little different than here, so it may not become an issue for them.


It is but they get around it by saying "you can sell if for whatever you want but if you sell it for less we will terminate sales to you" and make you sign a dealer contract that has a termination for no reason clause.

I know this because I've signed a few.


----------



## Deckhead

Inner10 said:


> It is but they get around it by saying "you can sell if for whatever you want but if you sell it for less we will terminate sales to you" and make you sign a dealer contract that has a termination for no reason clause.
> 
> I know this because I've signed a few.


Your a funny guy but you definitely don't want to get on the wrong side of a bunch of kool-aid junkies on a kool-aid thread. We'll pay what we have to, the other stuff just doesn't cut it.

 My dealer doesnt need a contract cause thats his corner!!! Now where'd I put my systainer?!!:blink:


----------



## Deckhead

More like what don't I do with it. The big tenons are strong enough to hold stiles and rails together. Tool works like a biscuit jointer but tenons fit like dowels but wider. 

I do all my miters with them in decking, gates, doors, corners, basically anywhere you could want a mechanical fastener and can't get to or don't want it shown.


----------



## skillman

Deckhead said:


> More like what don't I do with it. The big tenons are strong enough to hold stiles and rails together. Tool works like a biscuit jointer but tenons fit like dowels but wider.
> 
> I do all my miters with them in decking, gates, doors, corners, basically anywhere you could want a mechanical fastener and can't get to or don't want it shown.


For a first timer which model would you get . 500 or 700 .


----------



## Rustbucket

skillman said:


> For a first timer which model would you get . 500 or 700 .


I think this depends on what you want to use it for. You can actually get an aftermarket adapter for the 700 that allows you to use all the 500 cutters and tenons. Downside is the size of the machine, which could get awkward in certain situations. 

If you're primarily using it for face frames, cabinets and furniture, I think the 500 would be the way to go, but if you also do a lot of heavier outdoor furniture, gates, doors, tables, etc., the 700 is the way to go. Ideally I would like one of each, but I may just spring for the 700 and adapter.


----------



## skillman

Rustbucket said:


> I think this depends on what you want to use it for. You can actually get an aftermarket adapter for the 700 that allows you to use all the 500 cutters and tenons. Downside is the size of the machine, which could get awkward in certain situations.
> 
> If you're primarily using it for face frames, cabinets and furniture, I think the 500 would be the way to go, but if you also do a lot of heavier outdoor furniture, gates, doors, tables, etc., the 700 is the way to go. Ideally I would like one of each, but I may just spring for the 700 and adapter.


What does the adapter run and who makes it .


----------



## BBuild

skillman said:


> What does the adapter run and who makes it .


http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/rts-500-cutter-adapter-for-festool-df700


----------



## Deckhead

I have found that the 500 does everything I need it to and I mostly do outdoor stuff. The 700 just seemed too big in my hands and the 10x50mm domino's are bigger than any dowel I used to use.

Where the 700 would be nice is fastening exposed framing like 2x12's or 4x's 6x's etc. on timber framing. Very seldom have i thought the 700 would be nice. Only thing is if you want to go bigger with the 500 you can't but can go the other way with the 700.

I find if something is not comfortable to use i usually dont. Might get the 700 later in life but not now.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

i opted for the 700 with the adapter plate. The 700 aint really that big but it def is bigger than the 500. Im using it on a job in a few weeks to build a cedar pergola. i picked up some 12mm SIPO dominos today for the job. It should go together nice which these instead of screws and nails.


----------



## Rich D.

Just opened it up!

Getting the assortment monday..

Cant wait to play with this baby


----------



## Deckhead

Rich D. said:


> View attachment 97974
> 
> 
> Just opened it up!
> 
> Getting the assortment monday..
> 
> Cant wait to play with this baby


Wish we could have got together while you were down, I was using mine more than I wanted to. Domino, dry fit, glue, clamp, over and over again. 

The thing about the domino is you think it's a good buy when you buy it because it makes the project that you bought it for so much easier then after you start using it the wheels start turning and you realize how many things you can use it on. Then you start to wonder what the hell you did without it.


----------



## tjbnwi

I guess I should learn how to use one of them there Domino thingyeees. 

Tom


----------



## ArtisanRemod

my next purchase will be the Planex/36 AC, then a 500 I think


----------



## Rich D.

Deckhead said:


> Wish we could have got together while you were down, I was using mine more than I wanted to. Domino, dry fit, glue, clamp, over and over again.
> 
> The thing about the domino is you think it's a good buy when you buy it because it makes the project that you bought it for so much easier then after you start using it the wheels start turning and you realize how many things you can use it on. Then you start to wonder what the hell you did without it.


Same here.. but no biggie. Next time..

Everytime i use festool i think the same thing.. how the heck did i sand drywall without the planex or how did i manage sheet goods without my ts 55.. now i can add tge domino to the list


----------



## Rich D.

Did everyones domino come with a cutter installed? Mine did, and i figured a cutter wouldnt be included..


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yep they come with one. I think when you buy the domino systainer it does not include the cutter the size you already have installed.


----------



## Rich D.

BCConstruction said:


> Yep they come with one. I think when you buy the domino systainer it does not include the cutter the size you already have installed.


Makes sense.. I thought i was oddly lucky? : laughing:

I have a small oak bar next week i cant wait to use this thing on.. I may even construct the under bar shelves with the thing..


----------



## tjbnwi

Should have come with the 5 mm. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Yup it did. Thanks for the confirmation guys :thumbsup:


----------



## Alska101

Well yesterday was clean up the trailer day. Its a every second friday afternoon thing. And it was well worth it with a little rearranging I found out I can now fit more festool in the trailer... sweet my wife was so happy to hear the good news...lol


----------



## moorewarner

I am starting to get the shakes... I think it's time... thinking about a RTS 400 to pair with the Planex for detail work. I also have a good bit of trim and doors to do and the LS 130 has been on the list for a good while now.

Anyone out there using a LS 130? What do you think of it?

How about drills? Who likes what and why?


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

moorewarner said:


> *I am starting to get the shakes*... .. thinking about a RTS 400


One of these might help:whistling


----------



## Charles_cz

Hi guys, I am looking to get Kapex and probably CT 26 or maybe CT 36. Does anyone have any idea if next gen of Kapex is somewhere close? Any speculations? I would hate to buy it just to find out in 4 months that I can get new model for the same price. It's a big purchase for me and first Festool. 
Thanks. Charles


----------



## tjbnwi

To the best of my knowledge there is no imminent upgrade to to Kapex. I've heard or read nothing that indicates there will be a change to the Kapex.

Tom


----------



## Charles_cz

Hmm. Kapex has been out for about 3-4 years right? It seems to me like they might be coming up with updated model in some near future (maybe within a year). They have new TS 55 REQ out why not Kapex, right?

The reason I was trying to find out is to make decision on purchasing order.... It looks like there is a lot get.. . For start I want Kapex, dust extractor, plunge saw and maybe table or saw stand. I don't have plunge saw and I have Dewalt DW 708 that is pretty messed up. These two are on top of the list. I wanted to get Kapex first but given how old existing model is maybe I should get my DW 708 fixed and wait a little bit longer. I could get TS 55 REQ with dust extractor and maybe MFT in the mean time. 

I know I can't afford to by all I want in be shot anyway. Prices are nuts but I like good quality tools. We all had to start somewhere but I think I'm ready for Festool. It should be great jump from what I have now.


----------



## tjbnwi

The TS 55REQ is currently not available. 

Getting the TS with a dust extractor saves you 10% on the extractor. There are packages with the MFT also that saves a little money.

It appears as if most upgrades by Festool is closer to the 7-8 year range.

Tom


----------



## BBuild

I wouldn't worry about being surprised by a upgraded or new tool. It would be available in Europe well before we ever see it in the states. It usually takes a year or two for their new technology to trickle down to the states before passing UL.


----------



## Charles_cz

tjbnwi said:


> The TS 55REQ is currently not available.
> 
> Getting the TS with a dust extractor saves you 10% on the extractor. There are packages with the MFT also that saves a little money.
> 
> It appears as if most upgrades by Festool is closer to the 7-8 year range.
> 
> Tom


Is that because there is problem/recall on this? I just saw something on different forum.


----------



## tjbnwi

Charles_cz said:


> Is that because there is problem/recall on this? I just saw something on different forum.


There were a few of the R's that had issues with retracting fully after a plunge cut under certain conditions. Festoon requested that the saws be returned and notified the Consumer Products Saftey Commission. The CPSC has to approve the repair prior to the re-release of the saw. 

From what I have read it appears that the issue was on less than 25 saws and occurred only on saws sold in North America. 

Tom


----------



## Charles_cz

tjbnwi said:


> There were a few of the R's that had issues with retracting fully after a plunge cut under certain conditions. Festoon requested that the saws be returned and notified the Consumer Products Saftey Commission. The CPSC has to approve the repair prior to the re-release of the saw.
> 
> From what I have read it appears that the issue was on less than 25 saws and occurred only on saws sold in North America.
> 
> Tom


I see. So I guess at this point nobody knows when they will be back on the market.


----------



## tjbnwi

Charles_cz said:


> I see. So I guess at this point nobody knows when they will be back on the market.


To the best of my knowledge, you are correct.

Tom


----------



## alboston

My ts55req works fine. Too busy using it to return it.


----------



## Calidecks

When I tilt the kapex it seems to drag with a scraping noise. I think it dragging on this plate here. Is there an adjustment. And yes the lever is fully dissengaged


----------



## Calidecks

Here's a pic


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> When I tilt the kapex it seems to drag with a scraping noise. I think it dragging on this plate here. Is there an adjustment. And yes the lever is fully dissengaged


Mine also has marks in that same place but no dragging. Perhaps there's a off cut of something got in there and its rubbing.


----------



## Calidecks

I opened it cleaned it sll out to no avail. However, it only rubs in the position with the indents. The other positionsv are smooth sailing

This one


----------



## john27

Derry said:


> You won't be disappointed John. I'm really happy with mine.


We messed up and got them to early :sad: They now come with 4.2Ah batteries for the same price...

John....


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> I opened it cleaned it sll out to no avail. However, it only rubs in the position with the indents. The other positionsv are smooth sailing
> 
> This one
> 
> 
> View attachment 98477



Huh? 

It rubs at 0 and 45? Isn't that how it stops itself at those numbers?

The whole mech is all gears for that.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Huh?
> 
> It rubs at 0 and 45? Isn't that how it stops itself at those numbers?
> 
> The whole mech is all gears for that.


No it rubs between those numbers. and stops as it was intended at 0 and 45. There was a burr on the indent pin that I noticed when I got into it. filed it down and alls well. Not sure if it was the plate that was burred on the top edge where the indent pin rides or it was the indent pin itself, or both, but I slightly filed both and it works great now


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Huh?
> 
> It rubs at 0 and 45? Isn't that how it stops itself at those numbers?
> 
> The whole mech is all gears for that.


I meant to say it only rubs in the position of this particular indent setting, Between the 0 and 45.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Went to pick the Carvex up this morning. Got a perfect job for it this week.


----------



## SDel Prete

BCConstruction said:


> Went to pick the Carvex up this morning. Got a perfect job for it this week.


You sure do love your festools. Picking one up the ,morning it comes out. Nice job

I do like it. However I think I would need a job that I would def use it on before I pull the trigger. Unless I just build something for the house with it haha. Could use so e end tables in the living room. Hmmmm.

Edit...noticed you picked up the accessory kit too. Very nice


----------



## john5mt

Pre paid for mine. But our dealer isn't open today or tomorrow.


----------



## Derry

john27 said:


> We messed up and got them to early :sad: They now come with 4.2Ah batteries for the same price...
> 
> John....


Typical


----------



## tjbnwi

john27 said:


> We messed up and got them to early :sad: They now come with 4.2Ah batteries for the same price...
> 
> John....


If they are still in the 30 day return window, return them, then purchase the new ones. 

Tom


----------



## john27

tjbnwi said:


> If they are still in the 30 day return window, return them, then purchase the new ones.
> 
> Tom


Its only 15 days in the Uk.. I was on the 15th day so i contacted Festool about it. Have not heard anything back yet as it was over the weekend 

John...


----------



## Derry

Good excuse to buy another!


----------



## rrk

BCConstruction said:


> Went to pick the Carvex up this morning. Got a perfect job for it this week.


You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool

You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

rrk said:


> You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool
> 
> You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:


Bro,,,,,,,He's a team rider:whistling


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

rrk said:


> You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool
> 
> You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:



So what?


----------



## SDel Prete

rrk said:


> You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool
> 
> You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:


Not true. He got the jig saw AND accessory kit


----------



## Spencer

rrk said:


> You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool
> 
> You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:


I have yet to use a jig saw that will keep a perpendicular cut through hardwoods. If the carvex can it would be worth it. I'm looking forward to hearing how she runs.


----------



## rrk

SDel Prete said:


> Not true. He got the jig saw AND accessory kit


yep


----------



## rrk

WarnerConstInc. said:


> So what?


About that blabbering


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

rrk said:


> About that blabbering



He can buy what he wants, if you can't afford one you don't have to get all upset about it.


----------



## moorewarner

rrk said:


> You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool
> 
> You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:


Your new here aren't you? The familliar come in get the shakes on price, a few proclamations about sensible value, go lurk for a while as it eats it's way into your mind.

Finally... well the track saw *does* seem pretty usefull... maybe just this one...

Ahhh, to be so young again...


----------



## rrk

How come anytime someone says anything about festool you get your panties in a knot? If I wanted your opinion I would give it to you.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> So what?


*So What So What So What*


----------



## moorewarner

rrk said:


> You should start doing crack it must be cheaper than festool
> 
> You spent more than $600 on a jig saw! and probably already have another one that works perfectly :blink:





rrk said:


> About that blabbering


This is "The Festool Fan Club" thread, *not* the "DeWalt/Bosch/Makita/Millwauki/Rigid/Ryobi Owners I Can't Believe How Much It Cost And Let Me Tell You Why It Is A Bad Deal" thread..

You do know this, Right?


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

rrk said:


> How come anytime someone says anything about festool you get your panties in a knot? If I wanted your opinion I would give it to you.


Bro,,,,,, you gotta use the







button so we know who panties you're talkin about:laughing:
*So What*:laughing:


----------



## Spencer

moorewarner said:


> Your new here aren't you? The familliar come in get the shakes on price, a few proclamations about sensible value, go lurk for a while as it eats it's way into your mind.
> 
> Finally... well the track saw *does* seem pretty usefull... maybe just this one...
> 
> Ahhh, to be so young again...


So true....so true....it has infested my mind like a plague that won't stop until every piece is acquired.

I've got at shot a trimming out a really nice new house, all walnut, craftsman style. I'm more excited to show the GC what I can do than anything. I want to have every green tool I can to show everyone who walks on the job that I am no ordinary trim carpenter. Festool sets you apart from the average. It says something when people see tools and techniques that they didn't even knew existed...


----------



## rrk

moorewarner said:


> Your new here aren't you? The familliar come in get the shakes on price, a few proclamations about sensible value, go lurk for a while as it eats it's way into your mind.
> 
> Finally... well the track saw *does* seem pretty usefull... maybe just this one...
> 
> Ahhh, to be so young again...


Not really, I actually have 2 tracksaws 1 for the shop 1 for the truck. When I buy tools they really have to pay for themselves in a short amount of time or be something that is not available anywhere else. I run a business not a hobby that acts like a business. 
Tracksaw yes, jig saw no

I had a mft table which I sold because I did not use it that much.


----------



## tjbnwi

I just knew I was going to win the Carvex and accessory kit in the August Festool Give-A-Way.:no: Oh well:sad:

Tom


----------



## Brian Peters

tjbnwi said:


> I just knew I was going to win the Carvex and accessory kit in the August Festool Give-A-Way.:no: Oh well:sad:
> 
> Tom


I do that every month! Surely one of these times ...


----------



## redwood

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Just sent that crappy Makita out to the middle of the big pond:thumbsup:
> 
> DWB Builders
> PO box 15011
> Honolulu, Hi. 96830


I have the Makita cordless and think it's just fine with one exception. Some T shank blades just do not stay in it. It's pretty much replaced my Bosch corded.


----------



## Spencer

Brian Peters said:


> I would love to have that new jigsaw, but the TS55REQ and a midi vac are ahead of it on my list...


Same here. Wish they would start selling them again...


----------



## FlyFishRI

Me 3! I think my local tool shop is having a demo for the Carvex on Tuesday. If I wasn't starting a job, I would play hooky and go play with it.


----------



## moorewarner

Spencer said:


> I have yet to use a jig saw that will keep a perpendicular cut through hardwoods. If the carvex can it would be worth it. I'm looking forward to hearing how she runs.


I had to notch out a 3x5 PT for sub-sills recently with my PS 300, it was pretty tight. 

I am definitely looking to handle/cut with the Carvex as well.


----------



## john27

Carvex, had the cordless one for months :thumbup::thumbup:

John.....


----------



## FlyFishRI

Well, thunder storms are going to delay the start of the job so I guess I am going to play with them. ;-)


----------



## moorewarner

john27 said:


> Carvex, had the cordless one for months :thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> John.....


Could you live with the cordless as your only/primary? How is the feel of using it compared to a slimmer corded version?


----------



## FlyFishRI

I decided to stay home and tie flies tomorrow to get ready to catch some tuna instead of going to play with the Carvex. Probably a good choice as I might end up leaving there with one if I went.


----------



## Deckhead

FlyFishRI said:


> I decided to stay home and tie flies tomorrow to get ready to catch some tuna instead of going to play with the Carvex. Probably a good choice as I might end up leaving there with one if I went.


:thumbup: good decision


----------



## john27

moorewarner said:


> Could you live with the cordless as your only/primary? How is the feel of using it compared to a slimmer corded version?


Its okay to use, i have the barrel grip version. It is a bit awkward to switch on and off.
I dont use a jigsaw that much but is just as good as a corded version.. but do get a spare battery :thumbsup:

John...


----------



## David7586

Anyone have any thoughts on this carvex review?


http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ToolSnob/~3/f7Fv5DQEdWw/festool_carvex_420_jigsaw_-_re.php

I think I'm still getting one anyway XD But it's definitely something I didn't realize.


----------



## FlyFishRI

Wow...


----------



## rrk

David7586 said:


> Anyone have any thoughts on this carvex review?
> 
> 
> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ToolSnob/~3/f7Fv5DQEdWw/festool_carvex_420_jigsaw_-_re.php
> 
> I think I'm still getting one anyway XD But it's definitely something I didn't realize.


This should be good


----------



## Rustbucket

That's just crazy! I have a hard time believing the good German engineers at Festool missed something as basic as a bevel setting.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

David7586 said:


> Anyone have any thoughts on this carvex review?
> 
> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ToolSnob/~3/f7Fv5DQEdWw/festool_carvex_420_jigsaw_-_re.php
> 
> I think I'm still getting one anyway XD But it's definitely something I didn't realize.


Guess these guys don't use tools much lol. In the example they show I done maybe 20 cuts like that without issue yesterday. I also done 7 back bevel scribes or back cut scribes as they call it on baseboards for cope cuts and had no problem what so ever. I do mine a little different than they do though but I first 45 the material to get a nice line to cut to then I run my blade along that line then touch up with a very light sanding. I guess if you were rushing and wanted to run it down a pencil line more than 1/4" inside the material edge then the base wouldn't allow that but a simple fix to that is cut it from the backside. It's not rocket science lol

I also notice a lot of guys on here already cut from the back side anyway so its def a mon issue for these guys. My Makita ain't comfortable enough to do this but when I used my carvex d handle as a barrel grip yesterday it was comfortable.


----------



## rrk

Please explain how to cut a back bevel on a tall pantry cabinet with a 1 1/2" extended stile, meeting a brick wall. From the back side.


----------



## tjbnwi

I don't own a Carvex, not sure if I ever will. I don't do a lot of jig saw work so......this is just what I observe from a far.

Looking at the photo in the review, if the base would have been set to an acute angle of 5º instead of an obtuse angle of 40º 1/2 of the base (left side in the 7th photo, right side in the 8th photo) would have been on the material. 

Yes, the base does both acute and obtuse angles. 

The majority of back cuts for scribes I do with my TS-55.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

rrk said:


> Please explain how to cut a back bevel on a tall pantry cabinet with a 1 1/2" extended stile, meeting a brick wall. From the back side.


I wouldn't use a jigsaw in that situation I would use a combination of ts55 and RAS. much more accurate and quicker than a jigsaw.


----------



## rrk

So if I need to cut 1/2" in on a curved line I need to cut first at 90 then again on my line?


----------



## rrk

BCConstruction said:


> I wouldn't use a jigsaw in that situation I would use a combination of ts55 and RAS. much more accurate and quicker than a jigsaw.


There are only 2 letters in my reply and it wont work, those 2 letters are not OK


----------



## Brian Peters

OK so let me get this straight...the Carvex won't cut a bevel at all unless you buy the adjustable base?


----------



## tjbnwi

rrk said:


> So if I need to cut 1/2" in on a curved line I need to cut first at 90 then again on my line?





rrk said:


> There are only 2 letters in my reply and it wont work, those 2 letters are not OK


Again, I don't own one, but it does appear that 1/2" would be about the inboard limit from the blade. 

I do own the RAS, it is the primary reason that I don't use a jigsaw much any more. You could sand that 1/2" in less time than you can cut it with a jigsaw. The RAS collects about 90% of the dust as you sand. It is one of those tools I keep saying "it not worth it" until I had a chance to use some else's. 

Like most everything we do, picking the proper tool is situation dependent. There are those times where a jigsaw is the right tool.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Brian Peters said:


> OK so let me get this straight...the Carvex won't cut a bevel at all unless you buy the adjustable base?


I believe you are correct. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

rrk said:


> There are only 2 letters in my reply and it wont work, those 2 letters are not OK


Who said anything about cutting that from the back? If you really felt the need to hack away at it with a jigsaw then I would take the stile down to the maximum difference between the bricks then let's say 3/16th extra stile material than I need. Then I would scribe and then cut with the jigsaw. 

Again though I don't do it like that but it will work like that if you need it too.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Brian Peters said:


> OK so let me get this straight...the Carvex won't cut a bevel at all unless you buy the adjustable base?


Yep you need the adjustable base.


----------



## Rich D.

You know the carvex isant really all that pricey when you consider you are also getting a festool fan sticker with the kit.. :laughing: im sure barri stuck it on his wifes bumper already...


----------



## Rich D.

I must say i would want the carvex but... My made in switzerland bosch barrel grip is rocking it still


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

When my old bosch dies, I am going to buy the festool Trion barrel grip, or maybe two of them.

I don't have a need for all the things the carvex comes with or can do. I have a couple bandsaws for that stuff. Although the big radius thing with it might be nice.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> You know the carvex isant really all that pricey when you consider you are also getting a festool fan sticker with the kit.. :laughing: im sure barri stuck it on his wifes bumper already...


I been trying to think where to stick that sticker. I wish it said festool fanboy though lol


----------



## Brian Peters

WarnerConstInc. said:


> When my old bosch dies, I am going to buy the festool Trion barrel grip, or maybe two of them.
> 
> I don't have a need for all the things the carvex comes with or can do. I have a coup, e bsndsaws for that stuff. Although the big radius thing with it might be nice.


Oh but Darcy the Trion doesn't have the stroboscopic LED's that make the blade stand still... seriously though I feel the same way, my Bosch does just fine for what I use it.


----------



## StrongTower

Call me weird, but I never use the bevel on a jigsaw....so used to either tipping the base or using the coping foot. I like the idea of a fixed base for a jigsaw, then I don't have worry about it going all out of whack.


----------



## WilsonRMDL

StrongTower said:


> Call me weird, but I never use the bevel on a jigsaw....so used to either tipping the base or using the coping foot. I like the idea of a fixed base for a jigsaw, then I don't have worry about it going all out of whack.


I always just tip the base too, never had an issue with doing it that way


----------



## Rustbucket

Anyone here use the RO90? I'm considering picking one up. I'm primarily using it for trim, windows and face frames. Really interested in how the delta pad works.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Rustbucket said:


> Anyone here use the RO90? I'm considering picking one up. I'm primarily using it for trim, windows and face frames. Really interested in how the delta pad works.



Do you have another rotex sander? I got rid of my 90 as it was too close in size to my 125 and I already had the dx93 detail sander.

The 90 is an awesome sander.


----------



## tjbnwi

I've used the 90 a lot. All the modes work very well. Rotex mode is a little jumpier than the larger sanders, you have to get used to it. 

Biggest issue, buying all the damn paper for it. I know I have more in paper than all my sanders combined. The Granat should serve you well. Tom at Tool Home makes up assortments in Systainers if you wish to go that route.

Tom


----------



## Rustbucket

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Do you have another rotex sander? I got rid of my 90 as it was too close in size to my 125 and I already had the dx93 detail sander.
> 
> The 90 is an awesome sander.


Yes, I have the RO125. I was just thinking this would allow me to better get into corners and sand window frames that are still in place. I'm also considering the triangle sander that looks like the ETS 125.


----------



## BBuild

The ro90 is a little beast. It packs a punch for such a small sander. With some 60 or 80 grit granat you can hog out some wood fast. Good for stripping paint and varnish too. Some 120 in RO mode will give a pretty good finish. Like Tom said in rotex mode it can get a little jumpy but with some practice you can get it to float on the surface. I think the dts400 would compliment your ro125 very well, probably better than the 90 if your going to be sanding in corners a lot. The delta pad on the 90 isn't all that impressive. I don't think its all that much better than my multimaster. Dust collection isn't that great with the delta pad either.


----------



## charimon

I love the 90. I think it is the bomb I use it 2 to 1 to my RO 150.


----------



## moorewarner

I will just say beveling is what I consider the weak point of my Trion, as in it's a pita to reliably set an angle or return to 0 as well.

I run the collins on the Trion and it works a treat. For longer scribes I also circ to approximate then sand up to exact, so not thinking that is a deal breaker.

I also have the RO 90 I like it. For super detail though I occasionally reach for my Fein with mouse pad.

I picked up a RTS 400 recently; I would love it if they had worked up a switchable base like the LS 130 or RO 90 so the RTS could function like the DTS as well.

Eh, cest la vie.


----------



## Rich D.

Finally got to play with my domino. Making a red oak bar. Im constructing the carcass of the bar with basically individual cabinets to suit there needs. Then skinning with oak to make a raised panel design. Now normally i would dado the shelves and top and bottom. Instead i played with my domino.. i think one cabinet had something like 22 5mm dominos..









































For anyone wondering. The Reason for the cut out in the box is for the bar cleanout..


----------



## Northwood

Rustbucket,

I have the dts and the ro 90. I have personally found the delta heads sand comparably, however, using the tip on the dts in corners will make the sandpaper a throw away quickly whereas with the ro90 you can simply rotate the paper and use all three corners. The ro90 is much more aggressive when you want it but can also finish nicely (yet a little jumpy). The dts has a small stoke and def. a finer sander.


----------



## tjbnwi

Rich,

It appears as if you marked the centerline of the dominos on the case side. You the probably held the Domino on the center line with the tabs aligned to get the dominos where you wanted them. 

Next time, place a straight edge (I use the back of a guide rail) 10 mm from center line, place the bottom of the Domino against the rail, cut the mortises. For the shelf, set the fence at 20mm, place a piece of tape on one side of the shelf, this is you reference side. The centerline in the shelf will be 10mm. Everything will line up, this also works for tops and bottoms. Just push it against a taller vertical and cut away. 

If you have a Rapid Clamp for the rail, you can mark the rail with the layout. The fixed edge of the clamp will get you set back to where you need to be. 

Tom


----------



## duburban

tjbnwi said:


> Rich,
> 
> It appears as if you marked the centerline of the dominos on the case side. You the probably held the Domino on the center line with the tabs aligned to get the dominos where you wanted them.
> 
> Next time, place a straight edge (I use the back of a guide rail) 10 mm from center line, place the bottom of the Domino against the rail, cut the mortises. For the shelf, set the fence at 20mm, place a piece of tape on one side of the shelf, this is you reference side. The centerline in the shelf will be 10mm. Everything will line up, this also works for tops and bottoms. Just push it against a taller vertical and cut away.
> 
> If you have a Rapid Clamp for the rail, you can mark the rail with the layout. The fixed edge of the clamp will get you set back to where you need to be.
> 
> Tom


Nice strategy, I think I've seen that illustrated on fog but haven't done it that way yet. Have you seen the homemade domino bracket for the lr32 rail? Very cool


----------



## BBuild

I saw a Festool rep at JLC live do it a little differently. He marked the side panel where the top of the shelf would land and clamped the shelf on that line. Parallel to it not perpendicular. He then used the edge of the shelf as his straight for the side panel . Dropped the domino straight down for the side panel then flipped the fence and did the shelf while still clamped to the side panel. After he flipped the shelf on edge and it hit the line perfectly.


----------



## tjbnwi

BBuild said:


> I saw a Festool rep at JLC live do it a little differently. He marked the side panel where the top of the shelf would land and clamped the shelf on that line. Parallel to it not perpendicular. He then used the edge of the shelf as his straight for the side panel . Dropped the domino straight down for the side panel then flipped the fence and did the shelf while still clamped to the side panel. After he flipped the shelf on edge and it hit the line perfectly.


That will work as long as the side panel is flat. You're now referencing off the entire bottom of the Domino sole plate. No reason to flip the fence down, he could have used the center indicator on the base. You also have to make sure the shelf is square to the edge of the side.

Tom


----------



## BBuild

tjbnwi said:


> That will work as long as the side panel is flat. You're now referencing off the entire bottom of the Domino sole plate. No reason to flip the fence down, he could have used the center indicator on the base. You also have to make sure the shelf is square to the edge of the side.
> 
> Tom


Don't you need to drop the fence to get your 10mm offset from the top of the shelf? I thought you would always use the fence when going into an edge. It was the first time I had seen a domino demo so my head was kind of spinning :confused1:


----------



## tjbnwi

BBuild said:


> Don't you need to drop the fence to get your 10mm offset from the top of the shelf? I thought you would always use the fence when going into an edge. It was the first time I had seen a domino demo so my head was kind of spinning :confused1:


Take a look at the picture. 

If the shelf is on the side panel there will be a 2mm gap between the fence and the face of the shelf (if it is 3/4 ply, 6mm off if it is 1/2" ply). So flipping the fence down is a waste of time. You must make sure the good side is down because you're referencing off the base of the Domino not the fence. So the 10mm distance is from the face of the cabinet side/bottom of the shelf, not the top of the shelf. If there are undulations in the ply it will mess up your mortice. 

I've done it, not my preferred method. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

tjbnwi said:


> Rich,
> 
> It appears as if you marked the centerline of the dominos on the case side. You the probably held the Domino on the center line with the tabs aligned to get the dominos where you wanted them.
> 
> Next time, place a straight edge (I use the back of a guide rail) 10 mm from center line, place the bottom of the Domino against the rail, cut the mortises. For the shelf, set the fence at 20mm, place a piece of tape on one side of the shelf, this is you reference side. The centerline in the shelf will be 10mm. Everything will line up, this also works for tops and bottoms. Just push it against a taller vertical and cut away.
> 
> If you have a Rapid Clamp for the rail, you can mark the rail with the layout. The fixed edge of the clamp will get you set back to where you need to be.
> 
> Tom


If you look carefully there is a second line i used that i erased. The line represents the top of the shelf. I used a straight edged set to that line and had the domino set to 10mm to more or less center the domino in the shelf. I actually had more meat to the top of the shelf which is what i wanted. Worked perfect. Easier than i thought too. Sounds almost exactly like your method.

I have yet to use the tabs on the fence to allign the dominos. I used my center line to, of course center the shelf, but also trasfer my dominos from shelf to side piece. I drew my center line, then laid the shelf along that line. Then marked out my dominos and trasfered the lines to both pieces with a piece of scrap..

If that makes sense....


----------



## tjbnwi

Rich D. said:


> If you look carefully there is a second line i used that i erased. The line represents the top of the shelf. I used a straight edged set to that line and had the domino set to 10mm to more or less center the domino in the shelf. I actually hsd more meat to the top of the shelf which is what i wanted. Worked perfect. Easier than i thought too. Sounds almost ecactly like your method.
> 
> I have yet to use the tabs on the fence to allign the dominos. I used my center line to, of course center the shelf, but also trasfer my dominos from shelf to side piece. I drew my center line, then laid the shelf along that line. Then marked out my dominos and trasfered the lines to both pieces with a piece of scrap..
> 
> If that makes sense....


I did not see the other line in the photo. Sounds like you did it the same way I would. 

If you use the 20 on the fence height dog, that will set the centerline of the domino 10mm off the reference surface. 

Way to much marking, no reason to go through all that layout.

Tom


----------



## Spencer

Last night I was talking to my wife. We moved and our old sectional doesn't fit the layout of our new living room. She wants a couch. 

I said I was thinking about just building our living room furniture....."REALLY! That would be worth waiting for!"

Domino, here I come...


----------



## tjbnwi

I'm thinking you need the DF 500 AND the XL DF 700. 

Have fun going through Frank Millers stock. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

For furniture, I think you need a tenoner and a mortiser.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> For furniture, I think you need a tenoner and a mortiser.


Spencer, you're close enough, just go use Darcys'. Tell him I said it's okay. :thumbup:

Tom


----------



## Spencer

WarnerConstInc. said:


> For furniture, I think you need a tenoner and a mortiser.


I got it. The domino is for "fast" furniture, this guy is for the fine furniture. Need to get it hooked up again. Almost got rid of it. I'm such a moron...

Its nothing compared to that chain mortiser you've got. Got have to make a jig for tenons.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Nice hollow chisel mortiser. Looks to be complete and have several different size chisels.

I am on the look out for one about that size, really need one of those and a chain mortiser for all mortising activities.


----------



## Spencer

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Nice hollow chisel mortiser. Looks to be complete and have several different size chisels.
> 
> I am on the look out for one about that size, really need one of those and a chain mortiser for all mortising activities.


I've got a few. Hard telling how old they are. I need to see if the guy who sharpens my saw blades can do anything with them. They are very dull. 

I haven't used it besides turning it on to see if it works. It has the collets also. Pretty simple to use really.


----------



## john5mt

So I was getting irritated at my kapex yesterday because i didn't want to drag the ct out for cutting deck boards but I was tired of the dust flying in my face 

Went to the hardware store and found this for 20 bucks. 





















Fits perfect even though I realize its an abomination to the purest. But it solves my problem


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

john5mt said:


> So I was getting irritated at my kapex yesterday because i didn't want to drag the ct out for cutting deck boards but I was tired of the dust flying in my face
> 
> Went to the hardware store and found this for 20 bucks.
> 
> Fits perfect even though I realize its an abomination to the purest. But it solves my problem


This should be a instant lifetime ban lol


----------



## StrongTower

john5mt said:


> So I was getting irritated at my kapex yesterday because i didn't want to drag the ct out for cutting deck boards but I was tired of the dust flying in my face
> 
> Went to the hardware store and found this for 20 bucks.
> 
> Fits perfect even though I realize its an abomination to the purest. But it solves my problem


Done that on my track saw many times for just a door or two.


----------



## john5mt

BBuild said:


> That's sacrilegious but not as bad as me keeping $500 worth of guide rails in a $30 Dewalt bag. Does it actually collect much? It seems the kapex really needs a vacuum because every time I use it with out one it blows dust every which direction and not that much out the dust port.


I used it Friday and it collected a real decent amount. If you've ever used the saw without the vaccum and saw how much comes shooting out the back of that dust collection... It collects all of that dust. It doesn't get all the stuff on the table that the vac usually pulls up. But it's the same or a little more than what my hitachis left behind with no vaccumm. I like the option of the vac for when it is advantageous to be super clean but when I am siding or building decks I don't see thee need to drag out the ct and waste bags


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I use it with my CT outside. I hate dust blowing in my face. A bag is a small price to pay.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Well I called festool again. Spoke to a woman who said she would get someone to call me back, also left a voicemail and still not return call. Still no return call from the one Friday either. Pretty pathetic really. For a couple of simple questions on making my cuts more square with this carvex. It's about 1/8 out top to bottom cutting a piece of 1.5" thick cedar. Not sure exactly what to adjust.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Panic over. They just called me back. Gonna test it out some more and see if their advice helped.


----------



## skillman

BCConstruction said:


> Panic over. They just called me back. Gonna test it out some more and see if their advice helped.


Shouldn't have to wait that long for customer service call back or an answer over phone right then .


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Used my XL Domino today properly on a larger job. It sure is a pleasure to use.


----------



## Rustbucket

BCConstruction said:


> Used my XL Domino today properly on a larger job. It sure is a pleasure to use.


Nice! That's one of the tools that can take you to the next level of craftsmanship, and lets you do it efficiently.


----------



## Spencer

That thing is a frickin beast of a machine... dang I want one.


----------



## Deckhead

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I use it with my CT outside. I hate dust blowing in my face. A bag is a small price to pay.


Not to mention the h.o. Who flips out about getting dust on their plants, front doors, windows, etc.

Not huffing ipe dust has been a huge advantage in the last year.


----------



## Rich D.

BCConstruction said:


> Used my XL Domino today properly on a larger job. It sure is a pleasure to use.


That things a BEAST.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> That things a BEAST.


It's does the 12mm 50mm like butter. It feels like I'm not even cutting anything! 

Doing this today. Never used a 1.5" cutter bit in this router. Not sure if its gonna go good or bad. 
































Well that went very smooth. Worked better than my router table.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It can handle it, just dial the speed down and take a couple passes. I have slung bigger with my 1400.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It can handle it, just dial the speed down and take a couple passes. I have slung bigger with my 1400.


It done that easy. Was pretty surprised it didn't even slow RPM at all.


----------



## tjbnwi

For those of you with the CMS router table, another dust collection tip. 

(Guards/feather boards removed for videoing.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waam2HtnBa4

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> It done that easy. Was pretty surprised it didn't even slow RPM at all.



I didn't know you were just going to tickle the board.:laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I didn't know you were just going to tickle the board.:laughing:


Lol


----------



## David7586

BCConstruction said:


> It's does the 12mm 50mm like butter. It feels like I'm not even cutting anything!
> 
> Doing this today. Never used a 1.5" cutter bit in this router. Not sure if its gonna go good or bad.
> 
> Well that went very smooth. Worked better than my router table.


If you had just one parallel edge guide for your of1400, would you have attempted that cut? Never thought about 2 connected.


----------



## tjbnwi

David7586 said:


> If you had just one parallel edge guide for your of1400, would you have attempted that cut? Never thought about 2 connected.


It is easy to do either way. Just make sure your travel direction pulls the edge guide into the work, not pushes it away. 

Referencing BC's photos, edge guide on the left. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I have used smaller bits with 1 guide but to be on the safe side I just used 2.


----------



## Inner10

Those tools are way too clean. :whistling


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Those tools are way too clean. :whistling


Tidy tools, tidy contractor lol

They ain't tidy after running that bit down the cedar and it rained right after. Cedar dust is stuck to everything. I will take them for a spa day at the weekend.


----------



## Rich D.

Rain and saw dust is the worst.. barley even blows off with the blow gun..


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> Rain and saw dust is the worst.. barley even blows off with the blow gun..


Not wrong. Not even 160psi would touch it. gonna have to wipe down everything. they smell good though as its cedar dust :laughing:


----------



## Rich D.

Hey atleast it will keep the moths out of the systainers :laughing:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I don't even bother cleaning my Festool's. I gave that up years ago.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I don't even bother cleaning my Festool's. I gave that up years ago.


i am slowly moving that way. i use to blow them of with air and wipe them down. Then i moved to just blowing them of with air and now i just blow them off with my mouth :blink: ok that dont sound right but you get the idea :laughing:


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I don't even bother cleaning my Festool's. I gave that up years ago.


What you use them for work or something?


----------



## Spencer

Carvex isn't getting very good reviews. All the feedback I'm running into is very negative.

Sounds like it is not even possible to cut an angle with it unless you either buy the angle base accessory for $100 or get it in the accessory kit for $200. On top of that its set up that you have to be cutting along the edge of the board in order to cut an angle because of how the fence folds down. Talk about an engineering oversight...


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Spencer said:


> Carvex isn't getting very good reviews. All the feedback I'm running into is very negative.
> 
> Sounds like it is not even possible to cut an angle with it unless you either buy the angle base accessory for $100 or get it in the accessory kit for $200. On top of that its set up that you have to be cutting along the edge of the board in order to cut an angle because of how the fence folds down. Talk about an engineering oversight...


There's a few posts about this a few pages back. I been using mine all week and its done everything I asked it to upto yet. There seems to be one cut that some users are having issue with but I don't even use my jigsaw in that situation so its a non issue for me. the only issue I have had with it after using it for the last 4 days is the variable speed trigger does not have a button on the right hand side to release the trigger safty. I sometimes cut left or right handed so this is kind of an issue. I just switched to barrel grip for that cut though.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> There's a few posts about this a few pages back. I been using mine all week and its done everything I asked it to upto yet. There seems to be one cut that some users are having issue with but I don't even use my jigsaw in that situation so its a non issue for me. the only issue I have had with it after using it for the last 4 days is the variable speed trigger does not have a button on the right hand side to release the trigger safty. I sometimes cut left or right handed so this is kind of an issue. I just switched to barrel grip for that cut though.


Except for cutting 90 degrees...that's beyond it's capabilities?


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> Carvex isn't getting very good reviews. All the feedback I'm running into is very negative.
> 
> Sounds like it is not even possible to cut an angle with it unless you either buy the angle base accessory for $100 or get it in the accessory kit for $200. On top of that its set up that you have to be cutting along the edge of the board in order to cut an angle because of how the fence folds down. Talk about an engineering oversight...


Yes, you need the angle base or kit. I did see the review about the lack of being able to back cut a scribe. The angle base will perform this operation. How often does a back cut scribe occur off the edge of a board? 

I don't have a Carvex, but I know could resolve any of the issues brought up in the review. I do my best to avoid reading reviews, they are written from the prior experiences of the reviewer. Just because a new model tool does not work like the previous models, it does not make it wrong. You just need to be smarter than the tool.

One of the stupidest things from the review was they claim a Festool rep told them to use a Collins Coping Foot. It has been know since the announcement of the 400 that Collins would not make a coping foot for the Carvex. 

I may have to buy a Carvex and base kit just to work this out.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

By the way, a jigsaw is not my preferred way to back cut and scribe.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

Bosch


----------



## Northwood

How do you guys normally back cut and scribe?


----------



## StrongTower

Northwood said:


> How do you guys normally back cut and scribe?


Cordless circ saw and an angle grinder with 36 grit disc is what I like. Also use a power planer on occasion.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Except for cutting 90 degrees...that's beyond it's capabilities?


But it does cut 90's. I bought the base even though I have never once cut a 90 with a jigsaw. I got the base just in case though. 

What's nice is they didn't just bundle the base and add $ to the package. Most users may never cut a 90 in there lifetime because they gave other tools that will do that job much better.


----------



## BBuild

northwood said:


> how do you guys normally back cut and scribe?


ras115


----------



## Spencer

BBuild said:


> ras115


+1 Don't know what I'd do without the RAS. I cope with it too.


----------



## Spencer

> One of the stupidest things from the review was they claim a Festool rep told them to use a Collins Coping Foot. It has been know since the announcement of the 400 that Collins would not make a coping foot for the Carvex.


Did the collins coping foot work on the old style jigsaws. I was considering a festool barrel grip and the coping foot would be a must.????????


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> Did the collins coping foot work on the old style jigsaws. I was considering a festool barrel grip and the coping foot would be a must.????????


Yes, it will fit the Trion. The Trion also has the common type of angle base.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Northwood said:


> How do you guys normally back cut and scribe?


Rail saw and RAS.

Tom


----------



## Brian Peters

BCConstruction said:


> But it does cut 90's. I bought the base even though I have never once cut a 90 with a jigsaw. I got the base just in case though.
> 
> What's nice is they didn't just bundle the base and add $ to the package. Most users may never cut a 90 in there lifetime because they gave other tools that will do that job much better.


Something doesn't make sense to me here...I thought you bought a $100 square to see if your saw was cutting a true 90°...


----------



## tjbnwi

Brian Peters said:


> Something doesn't make sense to me here...I thought you bought a $100 square to see if your saw was cutting a true 90°...


Not sure why people by these squares.......that's what dual plane lasers are for:thumbsup:

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Brian Peters said:


> Something doesn't make sense to me here...I thought you bought a $100 square to see if your saw was cutting a true 90°...


I did and it is. Off course the square has other uses. It's not just to check how square my carvex can cut. 

Also 90 is a typo. That was meant to say 45


----------



## Brian Peters

BCConstruction said:


> I did and it is. Off course the square has other uses. It's not just to check how square my carvex can cut.
> 
> Also 90 is a typo. That was meant to say 45


Just giving you a hard time...I was confident you meant 45 just couldn't keep my mouth shut


----------



## john5mt

I bought the carvex and base kit and love thatsaw. 

I never usually cut anything but 90 to the work piece so the angle base hasn't been on the saw except to play with it. Even on my bosch when I was back cutting I would just lean the saw. I would never take the time adjust the base. 

Never used a Collins coping foot. Always have coped with basswoods angle grinder trick


----------



## Northwood

BC- why were your cuts not 90 originally? You were having some issues right?


----------



## JohnKaznecki

So I bought the C15 drill set today and I'm not sure if I like it hundred percent. I been spoiled with impactsall this time. Plan was to buy the TI15 and have a combo. Now I'm thinking to ditch the c15 and get the Ti15 with accessories and have two in one. 

Btw I really like my carvex barrel grip a lot. 
Definitely it will be used a lot.


----------



## tjbnwi

JohnKaznecki said:


> So I bought the C15 drill set today and I'm not sure if I like it hundred percent. I been spoiled with impactsall this time. Plan was to buy the TI15 and have a combo. Now I'm thinking to ditch the c15 and get the Ti15 with accessories and have two in one.
> 
> Btw I really like my carvex barrel grip a lot.
> Definitely it will be used a lot.


Don't get the Ti.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> Don't get the Ti.
> 
> Tom


 Seconded.


----------



## JohnKaznecki

Why not? Which one you own and why did you chose the one you have?


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

I put the TI through exhaustive testing for 6 weeks.

Conclusion: It sucked. I wanted it so badly to be great. It wasn't.

Solution: CSX and DW Brushless 20v Li set, because I can't live without an impact, but the CSX is the finest thing since Halle Berry and took over 60% of my screwing/drilling operations (wish Halle would have taken the other 40).


----------



## JohnKaznecki

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I put the TI through exhaustive testing for 6 weeks.
> 
> Conclusion: It sucked. I wanted it so badly to be great. It wasn't.
> 
> Solution: CSX and DW Brushless 20v Li set, because I can't live without an impact, but the CSX is the finest thing since Halle Berry and took over 60% of my screwing/drilling operations (wish Halle would have taken the other 40).


Haha good one. I was really eyeing the Csx today but figured the price was so close that I would better get this and the Ti later. I do like my old Makita 18v set and the little 10.2 ones. The right angle is the nicest feature for me in their kit but Csx seemed like to light duty. Probably I'm wrong about it.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

JohnKaznecki said:


> Haha good one. I was really eyeing the Csx today but figured the price was so close that I would better get this and the Ti later. I do like my old Makita 18v set and the little 10.2 ones. The right angle is the nicest feature for me in their kit but Csx seemed like to light duty. Probably I'm wrong about it.


 I thought the same thing.

I was wrong.

It is an absolute game-changer of a tool. You're not gonna drive 3 1/2's all day with it, but that little thing has balls. It is sooooo effing light, and so versatile, and pretty damn tough.

A wise man on this thread once said, "if you can't find your CSX, it's probably in your hand". It just becomes an extension of your hand, you forget it's even there.

I'm sure all the guys here who have them would totally agree. F the TI, get the CSX. You won't be sorry.


----------



## tjbnwi

There are very few tools that do multiple things well, the Ti is in that category. Festools parent company is porting their Protool line to Festool. I believe we will see an influx of some Protools in Festool colors. The impact included. 

I've been without an impact for about 2 years, just can't find one worth owning.

Tom


----------



## john27

tjbnwi said:


> There are very few tools that do multiple things well, the Ti is in that category. Festools parent company is porting their Protool line to Festool. I believe we will see an influx of some Protools in Festool colors. The impact included.
> 
> I've been without an impact for about 2 years, just can't find one worth owning.
> 
> Tom


They are out now in the uk, there isnt a impact driver. Protool don't do a impact driver, only a impact wrench..

John..


----------



## tjbnwi

john27 said:


> Protool don't do a impact driver, only a impact wrench..
> 
> John..


I did not know that, thanks.

I guess they better get working on an impact driver (one worth buying).

Tom


----------



## skillman

tjbnwi said:


> I've been without an impact for about 2 years, just can't find one worth owning.
> 
> Tom


I can't imagine not haven impact guns . There so many good brands . Why hold out for one brand to make one . And the prices have come down on sales for them .


----------



## tjbnwi

skillman said:


> I can't imagine not haven impact guns . There so many good brands . Why hold out for one brand to make one . And the prices have come down on sales for them .


It's not that I'm holding out for one brand, it's that I can't get one to last more than a year. I've tried/owned the Bosch, Makita and Hilti, none lasted more than a year. 

If I really need an impact, I own, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" drive air powered impact guns. If I can't drive it one of those I have more problems than an impact can solve. 

I don't find myself missing an impact that often. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

"We are pleased to report that the Consumer Product Safety Commission, in conjunction with Health Canada, has approved a corrective action plan for the TS 55 REQ, allowing us to proceed with the correction, and to get tools back in customer hands.

Tools that have already been received and repaired will begin shipping on Wednesday, October 2, departing our warehouse in the order in which they were received. If you haven’t received your tool within 7-10 days, please feel free to contact Festool Service at 1-800-554-8741. Shipments to Canada, Alaska and Hawaii may take longer. 

Tools received from October 1, forward will be processed and returned to customers, also in the order in which they were received.

If you are the owner of a Festool TS 55 REQ, and have not yet returned your tool to Festool, please *discontinue its use immediately* and proceed to our website at http://www.festoolusa.com/recall or call our TS hotline at (855) 784-9727 to view your options and arranged the return of your saw. 

On behalf of the entire Festool staff, we thank you for your patience during this process and apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused.

Sincerely,

Michael Williams
Vice President of Marketing
Festool USA"

Copied from FOG website. Posted with Shane's permission.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

This is handy. Mine just started doing it. has been fine since i swapped my first faulty one out but the new one i have does the same exact thing now. Funny it didn't do it at all until then and i been using it a lot the last few weeks.


----------



## tjbnwi

For those of you who purchase through Amazon, I just found out that Amazon does not share information with vendors, so your purchases are not registered for warranty. When you purchase through an independent dealer they handle the warranty registration. 

Make sure you save your receipt. Festool is working on an online form for registration of Amazon purchases.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> For those of you who purchase through Amazon, I just found out that Amazon does not share information with vendors, so your purchases are not registered for warranty. When you purchase through an independent dealer they handle the warranty registration. Make sure you save your receipt. Festool is working on an online form for registration of Amazon purchases. Tom


 Even Milwaukee tools don't require receipts , the date is on the tool, and they take it in for repair. If it's a battery they can read it from a chip implanted in the battery. I don't know why festool requires registration when this could be done with their chit also. Skil/Bosch is the same way their tools are dated.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Even Milwaukee tools don't require receipts , the date is on the tool, and they take it in for repair. If it's a battery they can read it from a chip implanted in the battery. I don't know why festool requires registration when this could be done with their chit also. Skil/Bosch is the same way their tools are dated.


Date of manufacture is not the same as the date you take possession. What if the tool sat on a shelf for 6 months? Same way with the battery, they may know what date they built it, how do they know when you bought it?

It would suck to send a tool you've had for seven months in for repair thinking it's covered under a 12 month warranty to find out they won't honor the warranty because of the build date. 

All the Bosch tools I have purchased have a registration card, you can mail in the card or register online. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Date of manufacture is not the same as the date you take possession. What if the tool sat on a shelf for 6 months? Same way with the battery, they may know what date they built it, how do they know when you bought it? It would suck to send a tool you've had for seven months in for repair thinking it's covered under a 12 month warranty to find out they won't honor the warranty because of the build date. All the Bosch tools I have purchased have a registration card, you can mail in the card or register online. Tom


 That's not my point. They no when the tool was made and it's obviously before the expiration of the warranty, so why a receipt? Everyone who owns the ts55 REQ is within the warranty. With that said, again why a receipt?


----------



## country_huck

So it called festool told them my ct36 was damaged in shipping. (Obviously no fault of there's) They are sending a new latch free of charge, no questions asked. I'm really impressed!


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> That's not my point. They no when the tool was made and it's obviously before the expiration of the warranty, so why a receipt? Everyone who owns the ts55 is within the warranty. With that said, again why a receipt?


My TS 55 is no longer under warranty, nor is my Domino, ETS 125, RO 125, MFT, CT 22. 

This has nothing to do with the recalled TS, that will be taken care of, no questions asked. 

Festools warranty is 3 years-you purchase a RAS sander, it's manufactured and stocked for shipment to the US. by the time the entire US order is ready to be containered and shipped it's 3 months after your RAS was manufactured, 3 weeks to travel by container ship, clear customs, get to Lebennon In. Sits in the warehouse 2 weeks before that one ships to your dealer. You pick it off the shelf 3 weeks after it went into the dealers inventory. Add up all that time, you've lost 5 months of your warranty if they go by the build date. That's why the dealer registers your purchase, you don't need a receipt because the dealer took care of registration. Amazon does not register the tool nor do they share any purchase information with their vendors. In that case, Festool wants you to get your entire warranty so they're setting up an online registration for this. 

This is no different than a car that sat on a lot for months, the warranty goes into affect when it is purchased, not the date built.

Tom


----------



## CarpenterSFO

Californiadecks said:


> That's not my point. They no when the tool was made and it's obviously before the expiration of the warranty, so why a receipt? Everyone who owns the ts55 REQ is within the warranty. With that said, again why a receipt?


[Spoken in HAL9000 voice]: Mike, if you take your green stress pills, it will be easier for you to remember to wear the green-tinted glasses. You do want the mission to succeed, don't you, Mike?


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> My TS 55 is no longer under warranty, nor is my Domino, ETS 125, RO 125, MFT, CT 22. This has nothing to do with the recalled TS, that will be taken care of, no questions asked. Festools warranty is 3 years-you purchase a RAS sander, it's manufactured and stocked for shipment to the US. by the time the entire US order is ready to be containered and shipped it's 3 months after your RAS was manufactured, 3 weeks to travel by container ship, clear customs, get to Lebennon In. Sits in the warehouse 2 weeks before that one ships to your dealer. You pick it off the shelf 3 weeks after it went into the dealers inventory. Add up all that time, you've lost 5 months of your warranty if they go by the build date. That's why the dealer registers your purchase, you don't need a receipt because the dealer took care of registration. Amazon does not register the tool nor do they share any purchase information with their vendors. In that case, Festool wants you to get your entire warranty so they're setting up an online registration for this. This is no different than a car that sat on a lot for months, the warranty goes into affect when it is purchased, not the date built. Tom


Your ts req is without any question. Unless I'm missing something they haven't even been available for three years.


----------



## Calidecks

I'm just trying to shed some light on the situation. When your head is shoved so far up festools azz your vision has got to be blurred a little.


----------



## AustinDB

I have a RO 150 and looking at the RO 90 because it has the delta pad option. Would this be a much better setup than my Fein MM delta sander for dust collection and capability? The 150 is a beast-great for wide open areas, what would be a great option for something smaller but capable?


----------



## AustinDB

can someone explain the pros and cons of choosing the Domino 700 over the 500?


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Your ts req is without any question. Unless I'm missing something they haven't even been available for three years.


Your origanl post states TS 55, plain and simple. I don't own a TS 55 REQ.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> I'm just trying to shed some light on the situation. When your head is shoved so far up festools azz your vision has got to be blurred a little.


Really, that's all you got? From reading these posts, I guessing you own more Festools than I do. Unlike you, I know how to get the most out of them.

After you attend a reading comprehension class, go back and read my post about the TS recall and warranty registration. 

I purposely separated them to avoid confusion. 

The recall has nothing to do with warranty registration. 

Your correct, it sucks that Festool wants you to get your entire warranty period. No reason anyone would want to deal with a company that wants to take care of their customers. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> can someone explain the pros and cons of choosing the Domino 700 over the 500?


Explain what your primary application would be. Largest size material to be joined would help.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> I'm just trying to shed some light on the situation. When your head is shoved so far up festools azz your vision has got to be blurred a little.


What kind of light? 

You are pointing it in the wrong direction. 

I am glad festool dealers register the purchase date of the tool when I buy it. Most festool's build dates are 3+ months earlier, the warranty starts when you purchase it. It also stays with the tool for those 3 years, no natter how many times it is sold. 

All that was said was a PSA that amazon is lazy and won't register your festool's for you and that you should call festool. 

You seem to just want to argue for the sake of arguing about festool.


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> I have a RO 150 and looking at the RO 90 because it has the delta pad option. Would this be a much better setup than my Fein MM delta sander for dust collection and capability? The 150 is a beast-great for wide open areas, what would be a great option for something smaller but capable?


I don't own a 90, but have used one often. 

The dust collection with the delta head is decreased, with the extended delta head worse. With the standard delta head, size is comprable to the MM, with the extend head it gets into a lot more areas. 

Tom


----------



## rrk

Californiadecks said:


> I'm just trying to shed some light on the situation. When your head is shoved so far up festools azz your vision has got to be blurred a little.


Any minute now the last of the 3 Amigo's will chime in that your jealous and you really can't afford Festool and how dare you question anything


----------



## Calidecks

rrk said:


> Any minute now the last of the 3 Amigo's will chime in that your jealous and you really can't afford Festool and how dare you question anything


It was a test to see yo who was in their hole. Very predictable


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> They are a part of my business, which I make in the clear 60 or 70 thousand dollars a year installing Trex without advertising. I'll say their in my pocket, as well. If they were to disappear tomorrow I would be just fine as a GC, which is a bigger part of my business. You can try as hard as you want to try and turn this into a little schoolyard girl fight, you sound like a fool.


Festool is 0% of my business, how am I in their hole? 

If it was the video I was in, I spent two days doing that, two days I could have been working. I was compensated for my time, that seems normal to me. 

I am a fool because you lack comprehension skills? 

Come on, you can come up with something better, can't you?


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> For those of you who purchase through Amazon, I just found out that Amazon does not share information with vendors, so your purchases are not registered for warranty. When you purchase through an independent dealer they handle the warranty registration. Make sure you save your receipt. Festool is working on an online form for registration of Amazon purchases. Tom


Tell me what in this post says anything about the C36?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> Coming from a man who got his fame doing a free YouTube commercial for Festool? I'll say you are a little giddy about them.



Free? Fame?


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Festool is 0% of my business, how am I in their hole? If it was the video I was in, I spent two days doing that, two days I could have been working. I was compensated for my time, that seems normal to me. I am a fool because you lack comprehension skills? Come on, you can come up with something better, can't you?


 :laughing: :laughing:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> Tell me what in this post says anything about the C36?



It says purchases through amazon, that was his question, does he call festool or amazon? 

You sure like to ***** about festool holes, but where did you post your dumbass questions about your festools? 

Who answered them?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> :laughing: :laughing:



Guess not.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Guess not.


I don't normally talk to people like I talk to you, however you have the little immature schoolgirl mentality so this is new to me.


----------



## john5mt

After all thy baloney above I just wanted to inform anyone who did buy through amazon you can go to your account an look up all your purchases over the last 5 years or so under purchase history and re print any receipt you need


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> I don't normally talk to people like I talk to you, however you have the little immature schoolgirl mentality so this is new to me.


Pot kettle!

Not exactly sure what your getting your knickers in a twist about CD but its a receipt. If its really that much of an issue buy another brand of tool!


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> Coming from a man who got his fame doing a free YouTube commercial for Festool? I'll say you are a little giddy about them.


That's not exactly my definition of fame.

Maybe fame among construction forums...:laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> This is fine, again I was assuming, ( because it was your next post after announcing the info about the recall of the REQ ) that you were referring to the REQ. But you are saying you were referring to the C36. Your saying I should of known that? How the hell am I suppose to know that if you didn't specify? So yes, to be fair you didn't say this was what you were talking about until just a couple posts ago.


Nope, it was just a statement about any of the tools. Should I assume, that you assume Amazon will register all Festools but the CT 36 AC? If this was the HEPA CT 36 would it have been registered? No where in my post referencing Amazon did I mention the TS 55REQ, never have I posted I own a TS 55 REQ. 

With reading comprehension lessons you may eventually understand. 

I am making an assumption in my response, you typed C36 in your post #'d 1222 in this thread, as 1222 makes reference to a post I quoted about the CT 36 AC, I am assuming you mean the CT 36 AC not a C36. If this assumption is false please let me know what a Festool C36 is. 

Tom


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

CarpenterSFO said:


> ...


...


----------



## JohnKaznecki

English is my second language that I learned just a few years ago and I understood from the biggining that he was referring to all their tools. 

Common sense. 
I think you were just too busy reading in between lines and looking to start a fight. 
Find diffrent forum for that.


----------



## Calidecks

You guys are not going to intimidate me, even if you sleep with your almighty festools. It's as if I'm talking chit about your old lady. I have never like Dorcy Warner since he talked chit about my teenage daughter down in the basement. So picking a fight with him, or showing any disrespect isn't my concern.

He will be here any moment to deny it.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> You guys are not going to intimidate me, even if you sleep with your almighty festools. It's as if I'm talking chit about your old lady. I have never like Dorcy Warner since he talked chit about my teenage daughter down in the basement. So picking a fight with him, or showing any disrespect isn't my concern.
> 
> He will be here any moment to deny it.


Arrogance and anger, not a good combination. I'm not attempting to intimated anyone. Just pointing out your assumption was incorrect. 

I wonder how you lemming rrk feels now that he see his muse made an incorrect assumption, then allowed his arrogance to take over and try to cover it up by fabricating a story. Would have been so much better to just say oops. 

I know nothing of what Darcy may or may not have done, I will say I believe family is always off limits. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> You guys are not going to intimidate me, even if you sleep with your almighty festools. It's as if I'm talking chit about your old lady. I have never like Dorcy Warner since he talked chit about my teenage daughter down in the basement. So picking a fight with him, or showing any disrespect isn't my concern.
> 
> He will be here any moment to deny it.


If you could just spell right it would help, I mean my name shows up in every post. 

I also can't help it that you are in denial about what kids do when they go away to college.


----------



## svronthmve

Can we wind this little spat down soon, please? I'm missing my regularly scheduled Festool Fan Club material! LOL


----------



## PrestigeR&D

I couldn't agree more....The "sharp" comments never used to be this bad here .......just stick to the subject,...if you don't like it or disagree please feel free to express yourself ... but lets try to be more civilized....if you cant stand it...just move on to another area of the forum.....no sense getting all worked up over nothing....


I am not a green eggs and ham guy either California.......but just remember.... we don't all think alike..... have some respect....

and I respect those that like their tools- what ever brand it is....who am I to say whats write for someone else....:blink: , and I do like Festool, well ....actually just one........the Dominoe......:thumbup:..:laughing:


lets try to be civil towards one another...........

we all have our own way...:thumbsup:









B,


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Hey,
By the way I received this today ....their giving away a kapex and some kind of drill...:blink: 


If I win-(which is doubtful)but if I do,.... well have a little contest/raffle here.....and I will donate it...:thumbsup:


https://www.facebook.com/Festool/app_194975693850063



B.,


----------



## country_huck

Picked this little guy up too.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> Are trying to start this thing all over again? I don't need you to tell me how to act. For some reason you must think you need to tell me this? if you'll notice almost always when there's chit talk your friend Dorcky Warner is right in the thick of it. It wasn't even his fight but he decided to jump in and it went from bad to worse. He immediately left this thread and started chit with someone else in another. I'm going to not just stand back and let people do that. Especially after I lost all respect for them. Simply put he trash talked my teenage daughter. I can't forget that.



Are you going to stamp your feet and pout in every thread? Get over it. Kids go to college and do all sorts of things they don't do at home.


----------



## Calidecks

Probably in every thread that you decide to be an azz in. So just stay out of my conversations and this will all end.


----------



## john27

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Are you going to stamp your feet and pout in every thread? Get over it. Kids go to college and do all sorts of things they don't do at home.


Some do, some go and don't do anything they would not do at home.. 

John..


----------



## Calidecks

john27 said:


> Some do, some go and don't do anything they would not do at home.. John..


My daughters going to med school to be a doctor, she's not doing any drugs.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> Probably in every thread that you decide to be an azz in. So just stay out of my conversations and this will all end.


You started the whole thing here with your lack of reading comprehension.


----------



## Calidecks

Californiadecks said:


> Are trying to start this thing all over again? I don't need you to tell me how to act. For some reason you must think you need to tell me this? if you'll notice almost always when there's chit talk your friend Dorcky Warner is right in the thick of it. It wasn't even his fight but he decided to jump in and it went from bad to worse. He immediately left this thread and started chit with someone else in another. I'm going to not just stand back and let people do that. Especially after I lost all respect for them. Simply put he trash talked my teenage daughter. I can't forget that.


I stand by this statement


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I stand by the fact that you can't read or comprehend, or spell.


----------



## john27

Californiadecks said:


> My daughters going to med school to be a doctor, she's not doing any drugs.


That's what I'm saying.. The people I went to school with I would say 10% of them would go to college, university etc to get hammered, party etc. They have done this on purpose, they are not interested in studying. They went for the lifestyle. 
Of course most students will go out and enjoy themselves, that's all part of it.. 

John


----------



## Calidecks

john27 said:


> That's what I'm saying.. The people I went to school with I would say 10% of them would go to college, university etc to get hammered, party etc. They have done this on purpose, they are not interested in studying. They went for the lifestyle. Of course most students will go out and enjoy themselves, that's all part of it.. John


My daughter's school achievements are more important to her then they are to us. She graduated an international baccalaureate. We used to have to tell her school isn't everything in life. :laughing: my son is a little different he's got his mind set on becoming an FBI agent. 


With all that said, I'm going to respectfully bow out of this thread.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

john27 said:


> You get these sad stickers now in the systainer. Would anyone really use it?
> 
> View attachment 100669
> 
> 
> John


Definitely "used" it.

I couldn't wait to slap the one I just got on the rear bumper of a fellow contractor/friend's truck. He's a FesHater.....it made my month.

I also ordered a couple cheap Chinese Festool watches to give out for Christmas presents. 

Then again, I'm a little twisted, I enjoy taunting them.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Another tool thread gone to a Jerry Springer:no:.....


----------



## john27

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Definitely "used" it.
> 
> I couldn't wait to slap the one I just got on the rear bumper of a fellow contractor/friend's truck. He's a FesHater.....it made my month.
> 
> I also ordered a couple cheap Chinese Festool watches to give out for Christmas presents.
> 
> Then again, I'm a little twisted, I enjoy taunting them.


I might stick it on ebay:thumbup:


----------



## svronthmve

It ought to maintain its value through the years and bring at least a couple hundred dollars! :laughing:


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

john27 said:


> You get these sad stickers now in the systainer. Would anyone really use it?
> 
> View attachment 100669
> 
> 
> John


I think it needs a little drama on it:laughing:like


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

so who has a festool tattoo?


----------



## Brian Peters




----------



## Inner10

john27 said:


> That's what I'm saying.. The people I went to school with I would say 10% of them would go to college, university etc to get hammered, party etc. They have done this on purpose, they are not interested in studying. They went for the lifestyle.
> Of course most students will go out and enjoy themselves, that's all part of it..
> 
> John


Everyone drinks in university...


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> Everyone drinks in university...


It wouldn't even bother me if my daughter did drink, if she did she would tell me. But she doesn't and has no reason to lie to me about it. As a matter of fact I would love to see her get a little more of a social life in that regards. The studying she does can be overwhelming at times. You are an educated man aren't you inner?


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> It wouldn't even bother me if my daughter did drink, if she did she would tell me. But she doesn't and has no reason to lie to me about it. As a matter of fact I would love to see her get a little more of a social life in that regards. The studying she does can be overwhelming at times. You are an educated man aren't you inner?


I wouldn't consider myself a very educated man but I have a university degree and a college cert. :laughing:


----------



## ArtisanRemod

I couldn't care less about anyone's daughter. I thought this was a site for contractors, and where are the mods to clean this up?


----------



## duburban

Brian Peters said:


> View attachment 100677


wtf? is this real? is it yours?


----------



## Brian Peters

duburban said:


> wtf? is this real? is it yours?


Not mine...a Google search turned it up. My skin is tattoo free..


----------



## sancho

We are trying to get a festool enthusiast get together at the next woodworking tool sow. I think that would be fun. Though they had them in the states. I think this will be the first in the UK


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Well someone's more of a festool fanboy than me lol


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

BCConstruction said:


> Well someone's more of a festool fanboy than me lol


I've got Festooltat down the side of my **** sometimes it says Fel and sometimes it says Festooooooooool:whistling


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I've got Festooltat down the side of my **** sometimes it says Fel and sometimes it says Festooooooooool:whistling


Is your **** green too lol


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

BCConstruction said:


> Is your **** green too lol


Too drunk to post must continue in the morning


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

So I get home at 2 in the morning anf it's like christmas on my desk set:clap: a new ½" drill and some CDs from amazon. and a package that should be in Utah, salt lake city:blink: i never look at the addy and open it:whistling well i got 4 of em:blink:


----------



## sancho

A guy on the FOG wants to organize a UK festool get together, Hes talking about trying to get some of the Americans and Canadians to come across the pond to join in.

Man thats a pretty big plan he has. I dont know how big it will really big or how big a turn out. But its nice to see motivated positive people


----------



## AndyWRS

sancho said:


> A guy on the FOG wants to organize a UK festool get together, Hes talking about trying to get some of the Americans and Canadians to come across the pond to join in.
> 
> Man thats a pretty big plan he has. I dont know how big it will really big or how big a turn out. But its nice to see motivated positive people



I'd rather put that travel $ into a Domino and router.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

AndyWRS said:


> I'd rather put that travel $ into a Domino and router.


I agree the lack of money sucks


----------



## AndyWRS

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> I agree the lack of money sucks


For me its the lack of wanting to go to England for a simple get together, the $ is there...just rather buy tools with it.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

Oh heck I would love to go to England:thumbsup: The get together would only be one part of it! Heck the flight from here would go over the far east :shifty: I'd lay over for a few days:whistling


----------



## john27

It turned up today 









John


----------



## sancho

kewl nice drill, 

Yea I know coming across the pond just for a get together is over the top, but If anyone is planning a trip over for vacation anyway hey why not stop by when/ if we have it.


----------



## Northwood

Hey john let us know your thoughts. I'm hoping we'll get the newly branded protools this side of the pond but who knows when...


----------



## john27

sancho said:


> kewl nice drill,
> 
> Yea I know coming across the pond just for a get together is over the top, but If anyone is planning a trip over for vacation anyway hey why not stop by when/ if we have it.


I might pop over to the Uk, :thumbsup: ooops no im already here.. I have just came back from Orlando, great place. 9 times i have been there now..

John....


----------



## john27

Northwood said:


> Hey john let us know your thoughts. I'm hoping we'll get the newly branded protools this side of the pond but who knows when...


I will be using it tomorrow.. One of the lads at work has just bought a brand new 18v Milwaukee combo drill and another has a 22v Hilti. I will try it out against them :thumbsup:

John..


----------



## john27

I tried the new 4.2 ah batteries on the Festool carvex today... they seemed to last forever. :thumbsup:

John..


----------



## Brian Peters

I see the ts55req is available again...


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Foiled by the 240v european plug.


Won't the batteries from the cordless Carvex they sent you fit the drill? 

I was really hoping that was the hammer drill model. My cordless hammer drill died about a year and a half ago. I would also like to see the rebadged Protool cordless SDS drill here. I'm holding out until I try one or both of theses.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> Won't the batteries from the cordless Carvex they sent you fit the drill?
> 
> I was really hoping that was the hammer drill model. My cordless hammer drill died about a year and a half ago. I would also like to see the rebadged Protool cordless SDS drill here. I'm holding out until I try one or both of theses.
> 
> Tom


They are the same battery's, 4.2 ah. I just have no way to charge the battery's. Not sure about the hammer drill yet.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They are the same battery's, 4.2 ah. I just have no way to charge the battery's. Not sure about the hammer drill yet.


The Carvex came with the Euro charger also????? Post the names of your contacts so I can avoid them (just kidding Shane:jester. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Is it official that the chargers are not multi voltage? Or is it just a rumor currently. I'm just surprised they would make multiple different chargers when 1 charger can be made to work in every country on earth. I would put a US plug on one. Worse that can happen is it dont get enough voltage. If it don't work on 110v then stick a 220v plug on it then test it on there.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> The Carvex came with the Euro charger also????? Post the names of your contacts so I can avoid them (just kidding Shane:jester.
> 
> Tom



No charger with the cordless carvex. It's not Shane, he is usually on the ball. 

I am not sure I want to cut the plug off a new charger and try another plug. I would prefer to wait for the right one.


----------



## tjbnwi

I knew it wasn't Shane. Just screwing with him when he reads the posts.

I assume one of your other chargers won't? Battery won't fit or wrong chemistry?

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

What you gonna do with the 230v charger. Just get a UK to US adaptor. Amazon should have them cheap. Or if its European 2 pin get the adaptor for that setup. That way you won't have to remove the plug and you can still test it. I doubt it will hurt it because we lower voltage than Europe. Worst that should happen is it won't turn on


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> I knew it wasn't Shane. Just screwing with him when he reads the posts.
> 
> I assume one of your other chargers won't? Battery won't fit or wrong chemistry?
> 
> Tom


All I have is the charger for my old nicad C-12.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> What you gonna do with the 230v charger. Just get a UK to US adaptor. Amazon should have them cheap. Or if its European 2 pin get the adaptor for that setup. That way you won't have to remove the plug and you can still test it. I doubt it will hurt it because we lower voltage than Europe. Worst that should happen is it won't turn on


By the time the adaptor gets here, I would already have the correct charger. 

I will just wait.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> All I have is the charger for my old nicad C-12.


A testament to how well the drills hold up.

Tom


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> What you gonna do with the 230v charger. Just get a UK to US adaptor. Amazon should have them cheap. Or if its European 2 pin get the adaptor for that setup. That way you won't have to remove the plug and you can still test it. I doubt it will hurt it because we lower voltage than Europe. Worst that should happen is it won't turn on


Lower voltage can in some situations be more problematic than higher voltage. Trust me, I've destroyed more than one piece of electronics by supplying it with the incorrect voltage. :whistling


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Lower voltage can in some situations be more problematic than higher voltage. Trust me, I've destroyed more than one piece of electronics by supplying it with the incorrect voltage. :whistling


The majority of my stuff I bought from the UK that was meant to only work on 230v has been fine. Its been one of them things like if it works it works if it don't and blows up i am no worse off as i wouldn't have been able to use it anyway. That's prob a good 15-20+ products in the last 5 years.


----------



## WilsonRMDL

Brian Peters said:


> You like the Makita better?


Wouldn't say better but its free and I never really liked the trion


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> The majority of my stuff I bought from the UK that was meant to only work on 230v has been fine. Its been one of them things like if it works it works if it don't and blows up i am no worse off as i wouldn't have been able to use it anyway. That's prob a good 15-20+ products in the last 5 years.


Many electronics are dual voltage 50-60Hz...but I can show proof of some goods that I let the smoke out of!


----------



## David7586

I don't know if UK tools have the info, but almost all UL listed equipment has the specs on the actual plug or housing containing the inverter. You're looking for something that says 110-240 input voltage at 50-60 hz. If it says that, you're all set and can just get an adapter to fit the North America plugs.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

David7586 said:


> I don't know if UK tools have the info, but almost all UL listed equipment has the specs on the actual plug or housing containing the inverter. You're looking for something that says 110-240 input voltage at 50-60 hz. If it says that, you're all set and can just get an adapter to fit the North America plugs.


I have had numerous transformers and PSU's not say they support other voltages but they all did. I think some company's just don't want you buying your equipment from somewhere else so an easy way to stop this is say it only works in that country with their voltage and Hz.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got this today. I put it down on the floor when I got home and me boy has claimed it has his new play area lol


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

New charger showed up. Cordless Carvex has pretty good power and run time with 4.2ah battery's. That drill will twist your arm out of your shoulder if you are not paying attention.


----------



## Alska101

Alska101 said:


> ok you never see festool at 20% off, this is how you do it.
> 
> ok sign up to ebates.ca click in link
> 
> http://www.ebates.ca/referrer?referrerid=zfclmoAMeGU%3D
> 
> sign up for ebates and get a $25.00 credit and then sign up for shop.ca see link bellow.
> 
> http://www.shop.ca?plcktb=YAZyW24H0
> 
> shop.ca also gives you a $25.00 credit.
> 
> once all signed up go to ebates.ca and then click to shop.ca and your off. once you make your festool/shop.ca purchase you will get 20% cash back from ebates.ca
> 
> 
> but wait there is more, use promo codes on shop.ca and save even more try all the codes try work.
> 
> http://www.retailmenot.ca/coupons/shop.ca
> 
> 
> ok it works i do it and it works, your first tool is almost free...lol not free but cheap...:clap:
> 
> please use links above, as it helps with my festool addiction...lol:thumbsup:



ok more savings spend over $300.00 lol not hard with festool!! and enter this promo code and save another $50.00 ( RETAILMENOT300 )


My wife is so happy i am saving money on tools:whistling


----------



## overanalyze

Alska101 said:


> ok more savings spend over $300.00 lol not hard with festool!! and enter this promo code and save another $50.00 ( RETAILMENOT300 )
> 
> My wife is so happy i am saving money on tools:whistling


Is this just for Canada?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

my tlocs fit on my old beat up ct22.


----------



## overanalyze

BCConstruction said:


> tloc tops? how do they work then. cant say i have seen them.


They look slick...and come with a new tapered hose for improved suction....

http://www.festoolproducts.com/Festool-584165-CT-MIDI-HEPA-Dust-Extractor-p/584165.htm


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

overanalyze said:


> They look slick...and come with a new tapered hose for improved suction....
> 
> http://www.festoolproducts.com/Festool-584165-CT-MIDI-HEPA-Dust-Extractor-p/584165.htm


Never seen that design. Wonder when they show for the larger vacs.


----------



## john27

Forget Festool.. Just got this today


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

john27 said:


> Forget Festool.. Just got this today


They still using them budget original systainers lol


----------



## john27

BCConstruction said:


> They still using them budget original systainers lol


I know :thumb up: I might have to stick it in a T-loc systainer..

John...


----------



## Rich D.

I want the mft sys.. might pre order tonight. Do the same clamps for the rails work with it ?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> I want the mft sys.. might pre order tonight. Do the same clamps for the rails work with it ?


Yes they do. its just like a MFT but on a systainer. the clamps go through the holes into the box. i might grab a second when im there. they would be great supports for longer material on the UG stands.


----------



## tjbnwi

Barri,

Would you check the MFTSYS top to check to see if the holes will line up to cut a 45° angle? I read they will not, primarily the corner holes.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Barri,
> 
> Would you check the MFTSYS top to check to see if the holes will line up to cut a 45° angle? I read they will not, primarily the corner holes.
> 
> Tom


good question. If they dont i dont see any issue with drilling your own holes to suit any position you want them. you thinking about using it with the rail dogs and qwas dogs to cut 45's?


----------



## tjbnwi

I use my MFT hole pattern to cut a lot of different angles, 45° and 30° are two of the most common. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

This may be a dumb question.. but why not cut your angles on the miter saw? I don't have a mft so I'm not aware of its uses


----------



## tjbnwi

Rich D. said:


> This may be a dumb question.. but why not cut your angles on the miter saw? I don't have a mft so I'm not aware of its uses


Not a dumb question.

If the width exceeds the capacity of the miter saw. I've routed angled grooves/dados on the MFT. 

The holes are on a 96mm grid the is CNC machined they are very accurate. For example, if you have a 192 mm run and a 96 mm rise the angle is 26.57º, a 6/12 pitch. 288x96 is a 4/12. Using the grid allows for a lot of angles. 

Just one of those things that is available to use. There are some who use a sliding table saw, same thing except you're sliding the blade instead of the work piece. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Picked up the new boxes this morning. The MFT SYS boxes are gonna be real handy and the tackle box I'm not quite sure what to use it for yet. 

Tom nope none of the holes are at a 45 from what I can tell. Some are close but that's no good. But making a custom top looks to be extremely easy.


----------



## tjbnwi

Thanks for checking. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Well the jigsaw kit just fits inside the SYS MFT


----------



## EricBrancard

Picked up a used CT22 and RO150 with a bunch of paper today.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

WarnerConstInc. said:


> my tlocs fit on my old beat up ct22.


Good info.


john27 said:


> Forget Festool.. Just got this today


Go start a Mefell thread and tell us what it is:blink:


----------



## john27

Its a Mafell KSS300 :thumbsup:

John..


----------



## Derry

John how's the kss 300 going, I have the 400 for a year now and love it. I see mafell have a one with a 85 mm depth of cut that is very tempting.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Rich D. said:


> That will do it. :laughing: they also say make sure there is backing behind the splinter guard that first cut into a new splinter guard to make sure theres no deflection so it stays true. Don't know how true that really is


It's true. :thumbsup: I'll be moving mine over shortly since it didn't cut perfect.

I told my buddy at work. Using Festool is like going to someone else's house and trying to use their tools. I felt lost at first but it's getting more natural to use.


----------



## Nick R

ArtisanRemod said:


> Lesson learned


Wish I knew that too. Just spent $12 through the dealer because I snapped the side latch on the midi that I bought two weeks ago. I was hoping they would give it to me after the chunk of change I dropped.


----------



## tjbnwi

Nick R said:


> Wish I knew that too. Just spent $12 through the dealer because I snapped the side latch on the midi that I bought two weeks ago. I was hoping they would give it to me after the chunk of change I dropped.


Call Festool service, have them send you a replacement latch, return it to your dealer for a refund.

I know if I called Tom and told him something broke on a new tool he'd have Festool shipping me a replacement part so I'd have it the next day.

Tom


----------



## Nick R

Every time I pack up from a job, I can't seem to fit the hose and power cord back in the midi to get the systainer on without jumping on it like a trash can. Is there a trick I am missing?

This is the new t lock midi... Not sure how the new hose is different?


----------



## tjbnwi

Nick R said:


> Every time I pack up from a job, I can't seem to fit the hose and power cord back in the midi to get the systainer on without jumping on it like a trash can. Is there a trick I am missing?
> 
> This is the new t lock midi... Not sure how the new hose is different?


This is way to funny, I shot this video for another member here. It's the new Mini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The newest units have a tapered hose, 34mm to 27mm I believe. It still fits.

Tom


----------



## duburban

tjbnwi said:


> This is way to funny, I shot this video for another member here. It's the new Mini.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> 
> The newest units have a tapered hose, 34mm to 27mm I believe. It still fits.
> 
> Tom


This cracks me up. If anything it shows how much of a pain in the butt it is! I know its not hard really, i have a midi also. But watching you do this really makes it look like PIA even though its not a big deal.


----------



## tjbnwi

You would not believe how many can't get them stored back in place. I normally coil the cord in my hand and drop it in place. It takes less than a minute.

Tom


----------



## CarpenterSFO

tjbnwi said:


> This is way to funny, I shot this video for another member here. It's the new Mini.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> 
> The newest units have a tapered hose, 34mm to 27mm I believe. It still fits.
> 
> Tom


That video changed my life, or at least kept my BP a little lower a few tired ends of days:jester:

Edit: In the end I got the larger hose and cleanup kit, and I carry the hoses and attachments around on their systainer/


----------



## Nick R

tjbnwi said:


> This is way to funny, I shot this video for another member here. It's the new Mini. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE&feature=youtube_gdata_player The newest units have a tapered hose, 34mm to 27mm I believe. It still fits. Tom


Thank you! I think the end of the hose is getting in the way like you explained. Going to try it.


----------



## Deckhead

ArtisanRemod said:


> I wont be buying anymore Festool from my local dealer. They charged me for the little rubber shroud, and a bracket, and the screw that holds it in. The screw must have backed out, and the shroud got eaten by the blade. 13 bucks. I bought the saw in August and it looks brand new. I spent a ton of money there, they should have thrown the dog a bone.


Yeah, that would piss me off too but my guy here is fantastic. I bought his used rotex and he gave me a free chord in case the other one was going bad.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I’m looking for some tips and tricks regarding Festool use onsite. For the last few years I’ve been using Festool tools and I’m afraid some of the Festool Magic is wearing off. I’m frustrated with having to constantly change the hose and power cord to the CT. 

The simple act of installing toe kick:

•	Hook-up to the Kapex – make length cut.
•	Hook-up to the 55 – remove majority of scribe.
•	Hook-up to the grinder – finish-off the scribe.
•	Hook-up to the Dominao – attach toe to end panel.
•	Hook-up to the grinder – slight adjustment to the scribe.

Next piece:
•	Hook-up to the Kapex…

A few weeks ago I bought another CT to permanently stay with the Kapex. This helps but still changing for the other tools is a pain. I can’t afford to have a CT dedicated to each tool! Any suggestions? I’m almost to the point of believing that cleaning-up after is more efficient than constantly having to “Hook-up”!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Buy a plug it for the RAS. I don't see the hassle with swapping the plug it and hose quick. 

I also only use the heavier cord that works with all the tools.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I have a vac dedicated to the kapex and one for the tools. Can't say I have ever had an issue with swapping the cord and hose as I swap tools. The plug it system is more to keep cords tidy than speed of use. I have 5 tools on my MFT today and its clutter and tangle free. Yes I do have to swap the hose each time I use a different tool but any other tool with dust extraction would have to be swapped as well. The extra step you have is swapping the cord. I used to keep every cord attached and run them into a 5way adaptor then into the vac. Only ever use one tool at a time so no issue with doing that when I'm on site though. I have also used the y splitter when using the ts55 and router but suction is def reduced and noticeable. 

I def couldn't work like this if I had hoses and cords everywhere.


----------



## duburban

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’m looking for some tips and tricks regarding Festool use onsite. For the last few years I’ve been using Festool tools and I’m afraid some of the Festool Magic is wearing off. I’m frustrated with having to constantly change the hose and power cord to the CT.
> 
> The simple act of installing toe kick:
> 
> •	Hook-up to the Kapex – make length cut.
> •	Hook-up to the 55 – remove majority of scribe.
> •	Hook-up to the grinder – finish-off the scribe.
> •	Hook-up to the Dominao – attach toe to end panel.
> •	Hook-up to the grinder – slight adjustment to the scribe.
> 
> Next piece:
> •	Hook-up to the Kapex…
> 
> A few weeks ago I bought another CT to permanently stay with the Kapex. This helps but still changing for the other tools is a pain. I can’t afford to have a CT dedicated to each tool! Any suggestions? I’m almost to the point of believing that cleaning-up after is more efficient than constantly having to “Hook-up”!


I hear you! 

I run two vacs also and it still feels like a pain. When i think about the other way with each tool and its individual cable, its more of a mess. I do think that having the power source integrated into the vacuum hose would make a huge difference.


----------



## overanalyze

Another outside the box idea is to streamline you process. Do all your cuts on the Kapex, then all the scribing, etc....and also a cheap vac switch and a shop vac with a bag and filter on the Kapex would save some money over a second CT collector. Still can use the 1-1/2" hose for max extraction.


----------



## tjbnwi

Use either one of these for the cords;

http://www.officedepot.com/a/produc...o74tfsFP1kDloP64j:17h4h7d2r?cm_cat=2000000020

http://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Adapter-Shaped-Prong-Green/dp/B0081A4GEC

I don't swap the cord, I do have to move the hose on some of the tools. I set up the Kapex with its own CT. 

You can use this Y connector to limit the swapping of hoses. I do't believe it will fit the mini or midi.

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...ntistatic-y-adapter-with-blanking-plug-452898

In the shop I made my own boom arm to handle the hoses, I could take it in the field, but so far I have not. 

The thing I find that helps the most is work flow, do all of one operation before moving on to the next.

You have to figure out the best way to make it work for you. How set up and work may not work for someone else. You do have the option of not hooking up the CT hose to all the tools but the Domino. I still feel the clean work environment is worth some of the other in conveniences. 

Tom


----------



## BBuild

I did what Warner said and put a plug it adapter on my ras and ehl65. I keep a dedicated midi under the kapex and use my ct22 with long life bag for the other tools. Just twist of the cord and pop off the hose to the next tool. The only hassle I see is the cord and hose get tangled but I sometimes tape them together. Some guys use a braided sleeve over the hose to hold the cord.


----------



## john5mt

What size pipe is that to make it fit in the front of the ct and the hose?


----------



## Northwood

Where did you guys get the plug it's?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Northwood said:


> Where did you guys get the plug it's?


Sometimes they pop up on FOG and Ebay. Its not much to order in the UK and have them shipped though.


----------



## BBuild

The 48t blade that comes on the saw doesn't work too well when ripping the rail. It works fine when cutting the stile but the saw will start to struggle when ripping the rail. I usually do it in two cuts rather than one slow pass. First cut about 3/4" deep then full depth. I do have the panther rip blade but its cuts into the splinter strip more than my other blades so I try not to use it. 
Hey Warner, what brand 24t you using?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I am sorry, it is the 28t festool blade. I had a 24t tenryu I used for a long time, but it went with my old 55 when I sold it to Warren.


----------



## john5mt

That 28t blade is excellent for ripping hardwoods. My 48 is worn and I was using it on some beech and it was going slow and burning. Went and picked up the 28 and it went through it like butter. It's my new favorite blade for anything non plyood


----------



## StrongTower

Another thumbs up for the 28 tooth blade. I have the panther blade as well, but don't break it out too often.


----------



## StrongTower

Does anyone know what Festool is replacing the ETS sanders with? My dealer is closing them out.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

StrongTower said:


> Does anyone know what Festool is replacing the ETS sanders with? My dealer is closing them out.


what models are they reducing of the ETS. I have seen nothing about new models.


----------



## tjbnwi

I've seen nothing over at FOG. My dealer has not mentioned anything about a change.

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

ETS 150/3 & 5. I was told that they were getting discontinued and would be discounted. 10% off, same for the old mini & midi vacs. I have the 3, was thinking of getting the 5 as well just to have a more agressive sander when I needed it. Unless they were going to come out with something improved.


----------



## BBuild

They're not discontinuing the tools completely just upgrading them . The midi and mini have a new hose garage with a t Loc catch and a new tapered hose. I think the only change to the sander is a new fusion pad. I could be wrong though. The Ets 150/5 is a good all around sander. I went with that one because I had no intentions of buying the rotex 150.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

That would make sense as discontinuing some of the best sanders ever made would be crazy when there's no replacements in sight.


----------



## StrongTower

That's really weird, they didn't do a sale when they switched over to the jet stream pad. I love my ETS 150/3. Wonder if the new pad is interchangeable?


----------



## BBuild

The new pad has to be interchangeable as it is set to replace all multi-jetstream pads currently available. It will also work with jetstream paper. It was originally designed for automotive applications and is supposed to transmit less vibration, give a smoother surface and have longer life.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I think the dealer may be misinformed about what to discount.


----------



## Morning Wood

Whats the guide rail to have for ripping sheet goods? The 106" or the 118"?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

118", purely for long tapers.


----------



## tjbnwi

BBuild said:


> They're not discontinuing the tools completely just upgrading them . The midi and mini have a new hose garage with a t Loc catch and a new tapered hose. I think the only change to the sander is a new fusion pad. I could be wrong though. The Ets 150/5 is a good all around sander. I went with that one because I had no intentions of buying the rotex 150.


The mini/midi also have a new hose that tappers from 27mm at the tool cuff to 32mm at the CT cuff.

I agree with Darcy-the 118"

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

yeah def the 118". just got one my self and its a good size for the ts75 on 8ft sheets. and nice with the ts55 too.


----------



## Morning Wood

So the 106" works, but you have to start and end with plunge cuts?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Morning Wood said:


> So the 106" works, but you have to start and end with plunge cuts?


yeah it works. just not as nicely as the 118" rail. you have sod all rail left before and after the cut.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Morning Wood said:


> So the 106" works, but you have to start and end with plunge cuts?



The 106 was made for the 55 and 8' sheet goods, the 118 for the 75 and 8' sheet goods. The 118 is more versatile with the 55.


----------



## Morning Wood

Thanks for that tidbit of information Darcy. Really.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I have the 106 for my 55. I wish I had gotten the 118! If you don’t center the rail pretty good, you run the risk of not cutting through on your start or finish. Get the 118.


----------



## StrongTower

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I have the 106 for my 55. I wish I had gotten the 118! If you don&#146;t center the rail pretty good, you run the risk of not cutting through on your start or finish. Get the 118.


I've always thought the same for my 59...I bought a 75 rail back a couple years ago when they had the track saw accessory sale. I actually cut my 59 into two smaller sections because I never used it.


----------



## Morning Wood

Ok. Thanks guys. This is gonna get pricey.


----------



## dr99

http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/P...ess-percussion-drills-PDC-18-4-Li-4-2-Plus-GB
Have you guys seen this dill yet? It looks like its only EU at the moment. It looks like its going to be a beast of a drill. Too bad I can't justify the price right now


----------



## tjbnwi

A little paint prep info;

http://festoolpaint.com/media/pdf/Festool Paint Magazine Fall 2013.pdf

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

dr99 said:


> http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/P...ess-percussion-drills-PDC-18-4-Li-4-2-Plus-GB
> Have you guys seen this dill yet? It looks like its only EU at the moment. It looks like its going to be a beast of a drill. Too bad I can't justify the price right now


There's a couple of guys on here with it already. i was gonna order it as well until i heard its in the US next year.


----------



## dr99

Do you give up your warranty with Festool when you buy a tool out of market, or are they ok with honoring it?


----------



## Rustbucket

dr99 said:


> http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=769194&name=QUADRIVE-PDC-cordless-percussion-drills-PDC-18-4-Li-4-2-Plus-GB Have you guys seen this dill yet? It looks like its only EU at the moment. It looks like its going to be a beast of a drill. Too bad I can't justify the price right now


I have seen this, but was wondering if this is part of the Protool purchase? Do the existing Festool 18V batteries for this tool?


----------



## tjbnwi

dr99 said:


> Do you give up your warranty with Festool when you buy a tool out of market, or are they ok with honoring it?


You have the full Festool warranty, for the country you bought it from. Festool USA does not honor out of market warranties. My guess is they stock parts for the tools they sell in North America.



Rustbucket said:


> I have seen this, but was wondering if this is part of the Protool purchase? Do the existing Festool 18V batteries for this tool?


Protool has always been part of TT, Festools parent company. From what I have read the batteries are interchangeable across the platforms.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

dr99 said:


> Do you give up your warranty with Festool when you buy a tool out of market, or are they ok with honoring it?


If your willing to send back to the market it was purchased from. The US festool have none of the European parts to fix them. 

What im not sure about is if once they do start selling that model in this market if the remaining warranty is able to be used here.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

dr99 said:


> http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/P...ess-percussion-drills-PDC-18-4-Li-4-2-Plus-GB
> Have you guys seen this dill yet? It looks like its only EU at the moment. It looks like its going to be a beast of a drill. Too bad I can't justify the price right now



I have the version that will be released here. it is just a 4 speed drill, no impact/hammer like that one. 

It is quite powerfull. I have been extremely hard on it and so far it has not skipped a beat.


----------



## Morning Wood

*Buy local or online?*

given the option of buying local or online what would you guys do? I think price is the same regardless. Only dealers near me are paint dealers though. I'd assume they can get anything, but they mostly carry stuff for painting guys. Thanks, nick.


----------



## Rustbucket

If you have a decent shop local, I would go that route. Nice to support the community. Plus, if you have a problem there is someone to talk to. 

If not, try Bob Marino.


----------



## Morning Wood

I know this has probably been hashed out before, but what's the best all around vacuum size? I have a fein that still works decent, but I know ill be happier if I go with the whole festool package. This will mostly be an on site vacuum, not a shop vacuum. I'm leaning towards the midi. If it was a shop vac I would probably go larger.


----------



## Rustbucket

Morning Wood said:


> I know this has probably been hashed out before, but what's the best all around vacuum size? I have a fein that still works decent, but I know ill be happier if I go with the whole festool package. This will mostly be an on site vacuum, not a shop vacuum. I'm leaning towards the midi. If it was a shop vac I would probably go larger.


I think your right on the money with your assessment. I have the CT22, and it's a bit bulky for transport. They all have the same motor, so the only real difference in performance is volume.


----------



## Morning Wood

Just saw the midi today. It is tiny.


----------



## jlsconstruction

Morning Wood said:


> Just saw the midi today. It is tiny.


I have one, it's good for in and out jobs


----------



## john5mt

I love my mini. My ct26 ends up sitting a lot now since I got the mini


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> Just saw the midi today. It is tiny.


Make sure the one you saw was the Midi not the Mini.

I have the Mini, 22 and 36 AC. I use the Mini in the field often, it is to small for most, but I have larger ones if the need arises. 

Get the Midi and a box of bags. It will serve you well. 

Tom


----------



## moorewarner

Picked up a CSX kit, Shop vac accessories kit, and attachment kit, the shop said the c12 and c15 were to be discontinued.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Did you get my pM....:blink:



B,


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

moorewarner said:


> Picked up a CSX kit, Shop vac accessories kit, and attachment kit, the shop said the c12 and c15 were to be discontinued.


I thought it was only the c12 that was discontinued?


----------



## moorewarner

BCConstruction said:


> I thought it was only the c12 that was discontinued?


My local shop isn't the most on top of the latest. He thought 12 & 15 both, only for sure the CSX was not being discontinued.


----------



## moorewarner

PrestigeR&D said:


> Did you get my pM....:blink:
> 
> B,


Your message box is full.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Had a couple people ask me in the last couple weeks what i use to hold my MFT3's to the walls. They are Tornado EZ ancors item number from lowes 251404 i use 4 but you could get away with 2.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> Had a couple people ask me in the last couple weeks what i use to hold my MFT3's to the walls. They are Tornado EZ ancors item number from lowes 251404 i use 4 but you could get away with 2.


Thanks BC. Looking forward to getting mine set up!


----------



## country_huck

I have spent a small fortune on festool this last year. But I really want to know are the MFT tables worth the cost, I like the concept but is the cost going to be justified.


----------



## tjbnwi

country_huck said:


> I have spent a small fortune on festool this last year. But I really want to know are the MFT tables worth the cost, I like the concept but is the cost going to be justified.


Yes it is. It is in my top 5 of Festools I use. Get the set for your first one. I know some do not use it to cut on, I do. Even if you don't use it to cut on, getting the extra rail is nice.

Save money for a future Clamping Elements purchase.

Tom


----------



## duburban

country_huck said:


> I have spent a small fortune on festool this last year. But I really want to know are the MFT tables worth the cost, I like the concept but is the cost going to be justified.


I snagged the older mft1080 in a lot of used festools. That thing is really amazing. I can't imagine working without it anymore. Being able to clamp anything anywhere is killer. Id look into the "parf" dogs for cross cutting and forget the standard hardware.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

duburban said:


> I snagged the older mft1080 in a lot of used festools. That thing is really amazing. I can't imagine working without it anymore. Being able to clamp anything anywhere is killer. Id look into the "parf" dogs for cross cutting and forget the standard hardware.


I second the clamping thing. I bought it not quite sure how all I would use it. You can clamp anything any way you want it seems. It's at a great height for working off of too.


----------



## duburban

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I second the clamping thing. I bought it not quite sure how all I would use it. You can clamp anything any way you want it seems. It's at a great height for working off of too.


not the 1080, its too low.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

duburban said:


> not the 1080, its too low.


So I heard. I read some people were adding blocks to the bottom and such. Honestly, I'm 6'3" and would love a few inches higher to save my back but it works.


----------



## DaumContracting

It's worth every penny for me. I have two of them and I mainly do trim work and handrails. Putting together handrail fittings, clamping and setting up on each side of my kapex works out great. Love mine. When I do soffit and fascia, I use them to cut the soffit. Also great.


----------



## Grant9454

Anyone out there who owns the ETS 125 can you give me some feedback on how you like it? My 25 year old makita just crapped out and I've got a lot of projects coming up that require some medium sanding but mostly finish. This will be my first festool but I'm looking to invest in the whole system slowly as I am just starting out and will be doing mostly interior finish work.
Thanks!


----------



## duburban

I have 3 other sanders but want the ets125. I work with a guy that has it though and enjoy its size for sanding edges and other small area sanding.


----------



## dkillianjr

I have the ETS-125 and the RO-90, It replaced my porter cable and then my bosch random orbit sanders. So far I like it. Its a lot smoother than the others, and just has a better feel. One of the main reasons I've been investing in the festool stuff is dust control, you can't beat it!

You may want to check out the RO-125. I didn't like how bulky it was, but it gives you the best of both worlds. You get a finish sander and a coarse sander in one.


Dave


----------



## Grant9454

I would love to be able to get the RO 125 but at the moment it's out of my price range, how well does the 125 do with light to moderate material removal?


----------



## skillman

Okay green heads . If you were going spend 3,000 dollars . What would be first things to buy from festool .


----------



## dkillianjr

Grant9454 said:


> I would love to be able to get the RO 125 but at the moment it's out of my price range, how well does the 125 do with light to moderate material removal?



It does great, and the nice thing too is the festool sandpaper is really the same price as regular decent sanding discs. I have had pretty good luck with the festool rubin2 paper for sanding bare wood.


Dave


----------



## dkillianjr

skillman said:


> Okay green heads . If you were going spend 3,000 dollars . What would be first things to buy from festool .


I would say track saw first, cxs drill, a rotex sander, and one of the vacuums. If you do a lot of drywall maybe look into the planex. 



Dave


----------



## Deckhead

Tracksaw, extra rail (long one), CT 26, Kapex, Domino

A hair over 3k but close


----------



## skillman

dkillianjr said:


> I would say track saw first, cxs drill, a rotex sander, and one of the vacuums. If you do a lot of drywall maybe look into the planex. Dave


 Im deep in other brand with cordless tools .


----------



## skillman

Was thinking track saw with 55" and 118"" rails , clamps and saw blades . Midi and accessories .


----------



## Morning Wood

I'm in the same boat. I want to be able to do built in's on site and really crank through them. I don't expect to be all Festool, but what I need is a way to cut accurate parts, drill shelf pin holes, and put together doors if they are not slab doors.
track saw
55" rail
118" rail
55" shelf pin rail
32 mm system
small plunge router- can't remember model #
parallel guide rail kit
guide rail kit with angle gauge, clamps, deflector, etc.

I have a sander and fein vac which will work for awhile
I would need a domino to really crank out doors, but current project is all slab style doors, so I'm not doing rails and stiles anyway.


----------



## country_huck

Grant9454 said:


> Anyone out there who owns the ETS 125 can you give me some feedback on how you like it? My 25 year old makita just crapped out and I've got a lot of projects coming up that require some medium sanding but mostly finish. This will be my first festool but I'm looking to invest in the whole system slowly as I am just starting out and will be doing mostly interior finish work. Thanks!


ETS125. Is a great sander, very smooth, low vibration, excellent dust collection. Remember it is just a finish sander don't expect to be removing large amounts of material.


----------



## RobertCDF

Morning Wood said:


> I'm in the same boat. I want to be able to do built in's on site and really crank through them. I don't expect to be all Festool, but what I need is a way to cut accurate parts, drill shelf pin holes, and put together doors if they are not slab doors.
> track saw
> 55" rail
> 118" rail
> 55" shelf pin rail
> 32 mm system
> small plunge router- can't remember model #
> parallel guide rail kit
> guide rail kit with angle gauge, clamps, deflector, etc.
> 
> I have a sander and fein vac which will work for awhile
> I would need a domino to really crank out doors, but current project is all slab style doors, so I'm not doing rails and stiles anyway.


When I bought my ts55req I asked the dealer for the 32mm drilled track instead of the plain track, then it serves dual purpose. Cost me $5 more. And I don't have to store 2 (or buy 2).


----------



## Brian Peters

RobertCDF said:


> When I bought my ts55req I asked the dealer for the 32mm drilled track instead of the plain track, then it serves dual purpose. Cost me $5 more. And I don't have to store 2 (or buy 2).


Good tip...I'll keep that in mind when I get mine...


----------



## tjbnwi

Grant9454 said:


> Anyone out there who owns the ETS 125 can you give me some feedback on how you like it? My 25 year old makita just crapped out and I've got a lot of projects coming up that require some medium sanding but mostly finish. This will be my first festool but I'm looking to invest in the whole system slowly as I am just starting out and will be doing mostly interior finish work.
> Thanks!


The 125 was one of my first purchases. It is a great finish sander. Being a 2 mm stroke it is not at all aggressive. It will remove material but it would not be my first choice.

If you can, purchase the 125 and a CT (get the Midi for your first one) as a package, it will save a bit on the CT. 

An assortment of Granat paper is your best bet to start. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

skillman said:


> Okay green heads . If you were going spend 3,000 dollars . What would be first things to buy from festool .


Track saw and MFT 3 package $1257.00 

Domino and CT 26 package $1336.50

1400 router $510.00

LR 32 system $480.00

118" track $325.00

I know it is over the $3000.00, now you can decide. Buying the packages you save about 15% on one of the items in the package. 

Go with the 2 packages and the 118" rail for just under 3k. You can get the LR 32 and router latter, for now use on of the jigs from Rockler for the shelf pins holes. 

As mentioned have the rail exchanged for the holie LR 32 rail. 

Some here have gone with the Makita 118" rail due to cost. 

The above will get you building on site. A sander and another CT will be need shortly after you make this investment.

Tom


----------



## Roofcheck

If your gonna spend $3,000 why not $5,000 or $6,000? Once you get to a certain point it's just accessories...


----------



## tjbnwi

Roofcheck said:


> If your gonna spend $3,000 why not $5,000 or $6,000? Once you get to a certain point it's just accessories...


Some live within their means……


Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

RobertCDF said:


> When I bought my ts55req I asked the dealer for the 32mm drilled track instead of the plain track, then it serves dual purpose. Cost me $5 more. And I don't have to store 2 (or buy 2).


I considered that. Good to know it is a possibility. I just figured I could have it dedicated for holes. But it would be nice to save some money for once. I could take the savings and buy a blade or clamps.


----------



## Roofcheck

tjbnwi said:


> Some live within their means……
> 
> 
> Tom


Pretty sure you have more green than me- but seriously wrapping your head around something like $6,000 of QUALITY TOOLS as an investment not an expense. 

Break it down we work about 50 weeks a year 5 days a week that's 250 days so that $3,000 investment is $12 a work day so double it up. 

So...


----------



## tjbnwi

I may/may not have more Festools than you. They have been an investment over 6 years. I didn't go out and buy the tools to buy them. Each was purchased for a need it filled. 

If you purchase 6k in tools and 3k worth of them sit on a shelf unused it is a poor investment. 

Tom


----------



## RobertCDF

tjbnwi said:


> If you purchase 6k in tools and 3k worth of them sit on a shelf unused it is a poor investment.
> 
> Tom


Crap... I still haven't used my ts55 that I bought last month.


----------



## Roofcheck

tjbnwi said:


> I may/may not have more Festools than you. They have been an investment over 6 years. I didn't go out and buy the tools to buy them. Each was purchased for a need it filled.
> 
> If you purchase 6k in tools and 3k worth of them sit on a shelf unused it is a poor investment.
> 
> Tom


Yes absolutely I agree I was not calling you out I was helping the "soothe" the initial investment. Very few tools I own are not used on a daily basis however when a tool is needed to perform task at hand- in the safe manner that tool will be in my arsenal.


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> Crap... I still haven't used my ts55 that I bought last month.


Cut a sandwich with it tomorrow. (there is a video of this happening) 

The TS 55 and CT22 with the 106" rail were my first purchase. They were put to work within 45 minutes (drive time and unpackaging) after I purchased them. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Not to rock the Festie boat but...

http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet....&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CL_Fy6iS-rsCFW3xOgod7RUA1w

http://www.homedepot.com/s/makita plunge saw?NCNI-5


http://www.homedepot.com/s/makita guide rail?NCNI-5

I have 2 makita saws. 2-55" 1-32" festie with holes. 3-55" makita rails. they are exactly the same all around including the sys box, clamps and dust collection.. Bought my saws refurbed for $165 each. 

Save a couple of bucks because you'll never stop buying. :thumbsup:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Roofcheck said:


> Pretty sure you have more green than me- but seriously wrapping your head around something like $6,000 of QUALITY TOOLS as an investment not an expense.
> 
> Break it down we work about 50 weeks a year 5 days a week that's 250 days so that $3,000 investment is $12 a work day so double it up.
> 
> So...


Or as wrote a while back on a Kapex review It's about 3/cups of Coffee a day.


----------



## Gary H

RobertCDF said:


> I've got 1 in the making too, want to buy a bunch of Makita drills and impacts to help me get closer to that kapex?


What I blew on batts for those makita's I could have the ro 125 and maybe the drywall sander.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> Nothing. They are too nice to use lol


Really what are they used for typically? Is the idea to drill a large diameter hole without a pilot? Making railings or something?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Inner10 said:


> Really what are they used for typically? Is the idea to drill a large diameter hole without a pilot? Making railings or something?


I'm guessing cabinet doors maybe? At least that's always what I guessed they got used for. Boring for hinges.


----------



## Gary H

country_huck said:


> I just picked up a kapex and already it's a game changer. Still don't know if it's worth 1300 but it's the best I have used.


I got the whole set up. It really is nice to use. Why can't makita or dewalt make a set of extensions that fit thier saw like festool does. Really that was what sold me was how the whole system all fits together. No one ever believes me that there is over two grand in the set up. They think I joke. But it's a money maker everyday it gets used. Stress free


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I question the price once in while and then I think about how easy it is to move through these narrow ass historic houses, barley clean up, perfect cuts all the time, speed control to make even more perfect cuts, dbl laser so you don't miss the perfect cut, angle finder to find the perfect angle and gracefully take out of the narrow ass historic house. Then there's the days when everything is perfect and parking spot in front of house set up on the side walk or in between cars make the perfect clean cuts and some lady pushing her kids in stroller stops and says wow thats clean site you have. Can I have a card I'm in the neighborhood and then perfect sale See how it works??? 
You feel better eventually.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Really what are they used for typically? Is the idea to drill a large diameter hole without a pilot? Making railings or something?


I have some nice German Frostner bits already but these can be used at an angle because the pilot bit can be swapped with longer versions. I'm using them tomorrow on some hand rails but they have a lot of uses. They leave about as perfect a hole you can get with a flat bottom and they go into the material easy with zero tear out. 

They ain't much more expensive than the others I have but they are vastly nicer.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I question the price once in while and then I think about how easy it is to move through these narrow ass historic houses, barley clean up, perfect cuts all the time, speed control to make even more perfect cuts, dbl laser so you don't miss the perfect cut, angle finder to find the perfect angle and gracefully take out of the narrow ass historic house. Then there's the days when everything is perfect and parking spot in front of house set up on the side walk or in between cars make the perfect clean cuts and some lady pushing her kids in stroller stops and says wow thats clean site you have. Can I have a card I'm in the neighborhood and then perfect sale See how it works??? You feel better eventually.


Having festool def gets you work. I have had so many people impressed by my setup and how tidy I am that quite a few of them turned into future customers.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> I have some nice German Frostner bits already but these can be used at an angle because the pilot bit can be swapped with longer versions. I'm using them tomorrow on some hand rails but they have a lot of uses. They leave about as perfect a hole you can get with a flat bottom and they go into the material easy with zero tear out.
> 
> They ain't much more expensive than the others I have but they are vastly nicer.


So ya bought em for more CT street cred? :laughing:


----------



## Dan_Watson

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I question the price once in while and then I think about how easy it is to move through these narrow ass historic houses, barley clean up, perfect cuts all the time, speed control to make even more perfect cuts, dbl laser so you don't miss the perfect cut, angle finder to find the perfect angle and gracefully take out of the narrow ass historic house. Then there's the days when everything is perfect and parking spot in front of house set up on the side walk or in between cars make the perfect clean cuts and some lady pushing her kids in stroller stops and says wow thats clean site you have. Can I have a card I'm in the neighborhood and then perfect sale See how it works???
> You feel better eventually.


Is that green attached to yellow?


----------



## country_huck

BCConstruction said:


> Having festool def gets you work. I have had so many people impressed by my setup and how tidy I am that quite a few of them turned into future customers.


It's not the tool that's gets us work, it's what the tool does that gets us work. My customers love that I can sand drywall, grind floors ECT and not have dust everywhere. I actually got my first job solely on the fact of my dust catching systems. Festool being a main part of that.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Dan_Watson said:


> Is that green attached to yellow?


oh yeh... I don't discriminate. :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BCConstruction said:


> I have some nice German Frostner bits already but these can be used at an angle because the pilot bit can be swapped with longer versions. I'm using them tomorrow on some hand rails but they have a lot of uses. They leave about as perfect a hole you can get with a flat bottom and they go into the material easy with zero tear out. They ain't much more expensive than the others I have but they are vastly nicer.


I only buy tools when I need them. Even though I only need one size of the 5 they are still nice to have in case. problem is they are not available separately and as a set only available for a short time.


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> Why have you not got a kapex?


I have been using some else's (with UG stand) for the last 2 years. Returned it twice, each time he told me he had some things I needed to do for him for a couple of customers he wanted taken care of since he left the field. I told him to call me when he wanted it back.

Funny thing is he returned my Syslite he had for a few months, he felt bad about forgetting to bring it back.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> I have been using some else's (with UG stand) for the last 2 years. Returned it twice, each time he told me he had some things I needed to do for him for a couple of customers he wanted taken care of since he left the field. I told him to call me when he wanted it back.
> 
> Funny thing is he returned my Syslite he had for a few months, he felt bad about forgetting to bring it back.
> 
> Tom


I remember modified the depth setting on the dado..right? repost the picts and send all the details to me at [email protected] I should be done rebuilding my trucks interior by friday. I'm up caught on most of honey due list for Saturday so I'll tweak the K with a beer:thumbsup:


----------



## Rich D.

BCConstruction said:


> Got these little zobo's today. These are some seriously nice Frostner bits.


Those ate awesome and worth the money.. solid carbide which can be sharpened forever.. and I love the center guide bit so you can locate the hole from the back side of the work piece


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> Those ate awesome and worth the money.. solid carbide which can be sharpened forever.. and I love the center guide bit so you can locate the hole from the back side of the work piece


 there's def a lot of material on them that's for sure. Just hope when they do need sharpening my local sharpener can do them.


----------



## David7586

BCConstruction said:


> Nothing. They are too nice to use lol


Did you buy the Imperial or metric bits? I guess it depends on what hinge system you're using mostly.

Haha, I was pleased with the porter cables I snagged for 50 minus a 10 off coupon congrats on the buy, they look super nice!


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I remember modified the depth setting on the dado..right? repost the picts and send all the details to me at [email protected] I should be done rebuilding my trucks interior by friday. I'm up caught on most of honey due list for Saturday so I'll tweak the K with a beer:thumbsup:


I'll have to hunt it down.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

David7586 said:


> Did you buy the Imperial or metric bits? I guess it depends on what hinge system you're using mostly. Haha, I was pleased with the porter cables I snagged for 50 minus a 10 off coupon congrats on the buy, they look super nice!


I have the same porter cable set. they are now my nail filled wood bits. I got the imperial set as I already have a nice 35mm forstner bit.

Used one of the zobo's today and they are stupidly sharp and accurate. They went through oak like butter. The Porter cable ones I have take a lot of pressure to get them to go through oak. The zobo's cleared the shavings nicely to. My PC ones can't clear the shavings for crap.


----------



## Rich D.

I have a nice German famag set. When I need new I'm definitely getting festools.. just the fact there solid carbide makes them worth it.. I need to find a sharpening guy...


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

CrpntrFrk said:


> Testing.....testing.....
> 
> Just wanted to know how it felt to post in this thread. Got a Kapex in the making ......


Get yourself one of these - then you can legitimately hang out in this thread :laughing: Until then, stay out of here :laughing: :laughing: 

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...cessories/pocket-stickfix-hand-sanding-583129 

BTW, all jokes aside, I have two of them and absolutely love them for breaking edges, small hand sanding and sanding edge banding :thumbsup:


----------



## CrpntrFrk

RobertCDF said:


> I've got 1 in the making too, want to buy a bunch of Makita drills and impacts to help me get closer to that kapex?


But then I would further away from mine. Don't tell me you haven't sold that trailer yet? That thing is sweet.

I actually am ready to buy the Kapex now and have filled out the order form a couple times. I want to get the CT26 at the same time. Don't know if I will be able to hold off.


----------



## RobertCDF

CrpntrFrk said:


> But then I would further away from mine. Don't tell me you haven't sold that trailer yet? That thing is sweet.
> 
> I actually am ready to buy the Kapex now and have filled out the order form a couple times. I want to get the CT26 at the same time. Don't know if I will be able to hold off.


Nope, still haven't sold the trailer, finally got it all emptied out into my garage and the other trailer. Thinking about keeping it if I can't get a reasonable price for it. I could store my atvs and dirt bike in it.


----------



## Roofcheck

Trailer? Pics?


----------



## donerightwyo

Sipping the Koolaid.


----------



## RobertCDF

Roofcheck said:


> Trailer? Pics?


http://www.contractortalk.com/f46/2013-7x16-enclosed-trailer-144053/#post1934092


----------



## Gary H

donerightwyo said:


> Sipping the Koolaid.


Everytime I see that pic I want to go out and buy that set up. The only thing keeping from is that I have order it. I can't just walk in and buy it.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

donerightwyo said:


> View attachment 106302
> 
> 
> Sipping the Koolaid.


That’s not “sipping”… That’s a big gulp :laughing: Nice buy :thumbsup:


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I’ve got a few hose questions for you hosers that know your hoses. 

First, would shortening my 36mm hose to the Kapex improve its dust collection? I recently worked in an environment where dust collection was very important and I was a little disappointed. 

Second, is the antistatic hose really antistatic? I get real good shocks from the rail when using my TS55.

Are there other hoses (made by other manufacturers) that fit Festool tools and CT’s?


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’ve got a few hose questions for you hosers that know your hoses.
> 
> First, would shortening my 36mm hose to the Kapex improve its dust collection? I recently worked in an environment where dust collection was very important and I was a little disappointed.
> 
> Second, is the antistatic hose really antistatic? I get real good shocks from the rail when using my TS55.
> 
> Are there other hoses (made by other manufacturers) that fit Festool tools and CT’s?


Yes. You'll need to order a new CT and tool end cuff so you can use the balance. 

Yes, check the ground prong on your CT.

Yes. On FOG, many have used a brownish/red Ridgid hose they get from HD. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

To remove the tool cuff there are 2 tabs you need to depress the cuff will slide off. Unscrew the retainer, slide off locking ring. Reassemble in reverse order. 

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

donerightwyo said:


> View attachment 106302
> 
> 
> Sipping the Koolaid.


Uh oh... The mustache isn't so easily removable and then before you know it you're out at you're tool guys shop looking for "just one more cup full and that's it I'll be done". That degenerates into systainers sortainers and some drill bits that you don't even need.

Good luck my friend, I suggest having a memorial service for your bank account.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> Yes. You'll need to order a new CT and tool end cuff so you can use the balance.
> 
> Yes, check the ground prong on your CT.
> 
> Yes. On FOG, many have used a brownish/red Ridgid hose they get from HD.
> 
> Tom


Is there a use for the balance?

How would one do this?

Great, I think I would rather cut-up a $40 hose than a $150 hose


----------



## overanalyze

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I&#146;ve got a few hose questions for you hosers that know your hoses.
> 
> First, would shortening my 36mm hose to the Kapex improve its dust collection? I recently worked in an environment where dust collection was very important and I was a little disappointed.
> 
> Second, is the antistatic hose really antistatic? I get real good shocks from the rail when using my TS55.
> 
> Are there other hoses (made by other manufacturers) that fit Festool tools and CT&#146;s?


Lowes sells a blue Shop Vac brand 1-1/2" contractor grade hose. Its nice and flexible and $30. Its 12' long and easy to shorten. Menards sells the same one but its black. They have the rubber end that fits snuggly around the Kapex and TS 55 ports.


----------



## David7586

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Great, I think I would rather cut-up a $40 hose than a $150 hose


As long as the tool itself is grounded, you should be fine. If you're using a tool that connects via the festool plug then the tool depends on its ground via the anti static hose. I would hate to hear someone lose a tool because the electronics got fried from static :-( however, for a kapex or most larger tools, it has it's own grounding plug. Just be wary when using something like the sander or tracksaw.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I went AS with all my hoses because of the people I heard fry there electronics from not using AS hoses. Plus I don't get a belt from 10k volts when I ground my self.


----------



## Nick R

I got a shock from the track saw yesterday, surprised me. I'm using the midi and hose that came with it, pretty sure the shop is grounded correctly. How does the tool ground through the hose with rubber ends??


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Nick R said:


> I got a shock from the track saw yesterday, surprised me. I'm using the midi and hose that came with it, pretty sure the shop is grounded correctly. How does the tool ground through the hose with rubber ends??


Conductive rubber.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

BCConstruction said:


> Conductive rubber.


In these parts that what we call a bad condom!


----------



## tjbnwi

David7586 said:


> As long as the tool itself is grounded, you should be fine. If you're using a tool that connects via the festool plug then the tool depends on its ground via the anti static hose. I would hate to hear someone lose a tool because the electronics got fried from static :-( however, for a kapex or most larger tools, it has it's own grounding plug. Just be wary when using something like the sander or tracksaw.


The only tools currently sold by Festool in North America that have a grounding cord are the full line of CT's and the CMS. All the rest of the tools are double insulated, with 2 prong plugs. That includes the Kapex and their highest drawing tool the OF 2200 router.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Is there a use for the balance?
> 
> How would one do this?
> 
> Great, I think I would rather cut-up a $40 hose than a $150 hose


Depends. Don't get rid of it, once you do you'll come up with a use.

First check to make sure the ground prong is still on the plug. I've seen many that aren't. Ohm meter, check from prong to ground opening on the vas receptacle. Should read very low ohms.

Hose, rails, whatever it takes to get things done.

Tom


----------



## David7586

tjbnwi said:


> The only tools currently sold by Festool in North America that have a grounding cord are the full line of CT's and the CMS. All the rest of the tools are double insulated, with 2 prong plugs. That includes the Kapex and their highest drawing tool the OF 2200 router. Tom


Ahh, oops thanks for pointing that out. I just figured most miter saws did...I think my bosch does...now I'll have to check.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’ve got a few hose questions for you hosers that know your hoses.
> 
> First, would shortening my 36mm hose to the Kapex improve its dust collection? I recently worked in an environment where dust collection was very important and I was a little disappointed.
> 
> Second, is the antistatic hose really antistatic? I get real good shocks from the rail when using my TS55.
> 
> Are there other hoses (made by other manufacturers) that fit Festool tools and CT’s?



Bosch makes them see link. As far as the anti static I have across them before. 
I have the ridged cut to about 5ft which just fits in the garage. It get used with the kapex and mini dewalt table saw. The long 27m used on the track saw and kapex depends on how / where and i'm setup. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AV78B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

do any of you know if I this will fit over the 27m hose and kapex nozzle? see link: http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/hepa-dust-extractors It looks like it should. I think the 27mil would work better if the initial exit nozzle went to a larger port then reduced to 27m.


----------



## ArtisanRemod

ArtisanRemod said:


> I wont be buying anymore Festool from my local dealer. They charged me for the little rubber shroud, and a bracket, and the screw that holds it in. The screw must have backed out, and the shroud got eaten by the blade. 13 bucks. I bought the saw in August and it looks brand new. I spent a ton of money there, they should have thrown the dog a bone.


 Update;
I called Festool service. I was transferred to Festool sales. When told I was going to be charged I asked to talk to service again. I was the told that my parts were not covered under warranty due to damage from kickbacks. After stating that the screw backed out, he reluctantly agreed to send the parts (about $7.00 worth) free of charge, but that I would be charged next time.
I'm unimpressed.


----------



## Rustbucket

CITY DECKS INC said:


> As for anti static but have have across the anti static.


:blink::blink:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

ArtisanRemod said:


> Update; I called Festool service. I was transferred to Festool sales. When told I was going to be charged I asked to talk to service again. I was the told that my parts were not covered under warranty due to damage from kickbacks. After stating that the screw backed out, he reluctantly agreed to send the parts (about $7.00 worth) free of charge, but that I would be charged next time. I'm unimpressed.


That sounds unlike festool. They are normally great with sending out parts. Seems strange they would be so worried about sending out such a cheap part. I have only ever had to call them 4x but every time they sent the parts I needed. My issue is its sometimes hard to get through to someone but they do call back.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Rustbucket said:


> :blink::blink:


ooops i guess i had a fart.:sad:


----------



## Roofcheck

Is there supposed to be something like a bolt and nut here where I slid an Allen wrench through?

Miter gauge on MFT3.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Roofcheck said:


> Is there supposed to be something like a bolt and nut here where I slid an Allen wrench through? Miter gauge on MFT3.


 Yes a black knob that you tighten to stop that part from sliding back and forth.


----------



## tjbnwi

Bolt and thumb nut. You can see it on the CMS miter gauge I have on the MFT.

If it is a new MFT, check the box.

I see BC beat me to it.

Tom


----------



## Roofcheck

Thank you. I need one of those, Russell Supply South Burlington. Tomorrow. Am. First thing.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Bolt and thumb nut. You can see it on the CMS miter gauge I have on the MFT. If it is a new MFT, check the box. I see BC beat me to it. Tom


Lol I as messing about in trailer right when I see this text.


----------



## tjbnwi

Link to the Festool ekat, you need items #33, 34, 24 & 36.

http://ekat.festool.com/EKAT/jsp/ma...14_USA&k_ver=&k_lfdnr=&image=1&nodeId=current

Tom


----------



## Roofcheck

BCConstruction said:


> Lol I as messing about in trailer right when I see this text.


I could never get anything accomplished or hear the end of it from my wife if CT went directly to my phone or my everyday email. But tonight, after having a tantrum and submitting this post I can put in her face the good deeds done by my friends here in CT!


----------



## tjbnwi

Roofcheck said:


> I could never get anything accomplished or hear the end of it from my wife if CT went directly to my phone or my everyday email. But tonight, after having a tantrum and submitting this post I can put in her face the good deeds done by my friends here in CT!


I have a very unhappy wife right now. A business decisions that has her terrified. One would think after 36 years she'd be used to it. 
I might have to get her some happy pills so she does not have a heart attack.

Tom


----------



## donerightwyo

tjbnwi said:


> I have a very unhappy wife right now. A business decisions that has her terrified. One would think after 36 years she'd be used to it.
> I might have to get her some happy pills so she does not have a heart attack.
> 
> Tom


That's why you don't tell them until it's to late to worry about it:jester:


----------



## tjbnwi

donerightwyo said:


> That's why you don't tell them until it's to late to worry about it:jester:


That's never been my style, last thing I wants is a "you didn't tell me". 

Just like when I order tools, tell her when to expect the delivery and how much. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I had $400 burning a hole in my pocket yesterday, soooooo…


----------



## EricBrancard

That T-loc pointing to the right is pinging my OCD :whistling


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

EricBrancard said:


> That T-loc pointing to the right is pinging my OCD :whistling


The left-handed ones were $5 cheaper :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

EricBrancard said:


> That T-loc pointing to the right is pinging my OCD :whistling


I'm the exact same. I have been known to open the trailer back up after closing it because I was unsure if they were all turned the right way.


----------



## RobertCDF

I know the makita tracks work with the TS55 but do the dewalt tracks?


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> I know the makita tracks work with the TS55 but do the dewalt tracks?


It will ride on the track but do to the center design it does not work properly.

Tom


----------



## Roofcheck

My beautiful wife just asked the question... are those "boxes" (Systainers) "energy boxes"? Yup. They sure are.


----------



## RobertCDF

tjbnwi said:


> It will ride on the track but do to the center design it does not work properly.
> 
> Tom


Thanks, that's a bummer but oh well. 

Can't find a good deal on the makita 118" rail right now, $265 is the best I've found... I guess I'll keep an eye out. BTW I still haven't used the saw. :sad:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

RobertCDF said:


> Thanks, that's a bummer but oh well.
> 
> Can't find a good deal on the makita 118" rail right now, $265 is the best I've found... I guess I'll keep an eye out. BTW I still haven't used the saw. :sad:


homedepot.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

:blink:


CrpntrFrk said:


> Testing.....testing.....
> 
> Just wanted to know how it felt to post in this thread. Got a Kapex in the making ......


:whistling
I stop lurking every 3 to 6 months to post but try to stay out of here because these guys are a bunch of sickos
Where that pic at:blink:


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> Thanks, that's a bummer but oh well.
> 
> Can't find a good deal on the makita 118" rail right now, $265 is the best I've found... I guess I'll keep an eye out. BTW I still haven't used the saw. :sad:


Then what do you need the track for????

Tom


----------



## RobertCDF

tjbnwi said:


> Then what do you need the track for????
> 
> Tom


I do plan on using it...eventually.... we'll be decking a project next week so I'll need it at the end of next week or the week after.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

RobertCDF said:


> I do plan on using it...eventually.... we'll be decking a project next week so I'll need it at the end of next week or the week after.


I need one too:blink: When i but the 2 55s together it's not as stright as the one 118".


----------



## aaron_a

About to take the plunge. Planning on picking up a track saw next week. Plan on using it mostly for sheet goods for casework. Should I go for the ts55 or the ts75?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> About to take the plunge. Planning on picking up a track saw next week. Plan on using it mostly for sheet goods for casework. Should I go for the ts55 or the ts75?


55 for sure


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

aaron_a said:


> About to take the plunge. Planning on picking up a track saw next week. Plan on using it mostly for sheet goods for casework. Should I go for the ts55 or the ts75?





BCConstruction said:


> 55 for sure


But maybe the TS75:blink:


----------



## aaron_a

I'm leaning towards the ts55, then I can put that 150-200 bucks towards the difference of the domino xl instead of the original domino tool.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> I'm leaning towards the ts55, then I can put that 150-200 bucks towards the difference of the domino xl instead of the original domino tool.


That's what I would do.


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> I do plan on using it...eventually.... we'll be decking a project next week so I'll need it at the end of next week or the week after.


Just order the 118. Hell right it off to the job. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> About to take the plunge. Planning on picking up a track saw next week. Plan on using it mostly for sheet goods for casework. Should I go for the ts55 or the ts75?


55 for sheet goods. It comes with the 48 tooth blade. Get a dust extractor package. Order a 118 rail, have the dealer exchange the 55" for a 75". 

Get the 28 tooth and Panther blade. One of the biggest complaints is ripping solids. Using the proper blade solves most of this problem. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> 55 for sheet goods. It comes with the 48 tooth blade. Get a dust extractor package. Order a 118 rail, have the dealer exchange the 55" for a 75". Get the 28 tooth and Panther blade. One of the biggest complaints is ripping solids. Using the proper blade solves most of this problem. Tom


I would get 2 55" tracks if room was tight for storage.


----------



## aaron_a

BCConstruction said:


> I would get 2 55" tracks if room was tight for storage.


do they do a pretty good job of staying straight and not flexing when joined together? i have room in the shop to keep a 118, but my truck has a 6.5 ft bed with a cap.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> do they do a pretty good job of staying straight and not flexing when joined together? i have room in the shop to keep a 118, but my truck has a 6.5 ft bed with a cap.


 I have used them for the last 3-4 years with no issues. I use a 8ft level as a straight edge when I tighten them up. I used to use a 6ft one with the same results. They def ain't as straight as a solid piece but we are talking 1/64th's here across 110". I bought the 118" though to save connecting them and I have a ts75 so needed it for that. Plus I have a 14ft trailer to store it in.


----------



## aaron_a

Picked up the track saw the other day. Kept the 55" track and got a 75" as well. I haven't really put it to work yet, just got it set up and made some trial cuts on some scrap. But so far, I think I'm a believer. It makes an unbelievably clean cut. I can't wait to put it to work.


----------



## David7586

I have to admit, the resale value is quite impressive. You may be able to buy an equivalent tool, but I'm skeptical it will hold its value like festool can. 

I bought a 6 month old ct midi for 300 last year. I needed it and spent a few weeks looking on craigslist for that price. 

Recently, I saw the newly released tloc midi and well I guess I was just itching for something new and shiny. My old midi was very well taken care of with no issues whatsoever. I put up a craigslist post for 400 for giggles last week and actually had quite a few responses. Sold it for 375 and am putting that toward the brand new model. 

I would not be able to do that with any other brand tool.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

tjbnwi said:


> It is rare that I use the base to referance. You can give it a try, place the "good" face down so the reference face is the "good" face.
> 
> Tom


Your work surfaces must be better than mine, which are never as nice or clean as the material I'm working on. I trust the fence.


----------



## Morning Wood

Guys, how wide and thick are the festool tracks? I don't own one. Are they around 7-8" wide and 1/2" thick. Thanks, Nick.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Morning Wood said:


> Guys, how wide and thick are the festool tracks? I don't own one. Are they around 7-8" wide and 1/2" thick. Thanks, Nick.


7 3/8" wide
3/8" thick


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> 7 3/8" wide 3/8" thick


Darn you. I got off my couch went out and measured and you beat me to it. Lol.

I was gonna go to the 16th and say 7 5/16" wide 7/16" thick.


----------



## Morning Wood

Can't believe I was so close just from guessing looking at pics. Thanks.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Darn you. I got off my couch went out and measured and you beat me to it. Lol. I was gonna go to the 16th and say 7 5/16" wide 7/16" thick.


I was 2ft from mine when I see the post.


----------



## jlsconstruction

aaron_a said:


> About to take the plunge. Planning on picking up a track saw next week. Plan on using it mostly for sheet goods for casework. Should I go for the ts55 or the ts75?


I'll sell you one, hardly used ts55 req 55" track 118" makita track, and midi vac


----------



## overanalyze

jlsconstruction said:


> I'll sell you one, hardly used ts55 req 55" track 118" makita track, and midi vac


Why are you selling it?


----------



## jlsconstruction

overanalyze said:


> Why are you selling it?


I never use it, it's over rated, takes up room in the trailer, did I mention I never use it? Less then 100' cut with it


----------



## overanalyze

jlsconstruction said:


> I never use it, it's over rated, takes up room in the trailer, did I mention I never use it? Less then 100' cut with it


Gotcha. Agree with you on one thing, a nice tool isn't worth it if its not used. Good thing is you will recoup most of your money.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

jlsconstruction said:


> I never use it, it's over rated, takes up room in the trailer, did I mention I never use it? Less then 100' cut with it


You're the first person I ever hear say a track saw is over rated!


----------



## Roofcheck

Roofers.


----------



## aaron_a

jlsconstruction said:


> I'll sell you one, hardly used ts55 req 55" track 118" makita track, and midi vac


Just bought the saw last week. Might be interested in the vac though.


----------



## Brian Peters

BCConstruction said:


> You're the first person I ever hear say a track saw is over rated!


For some people it probably is....in the work I do, there have been times I wished I had one ,and then several months go by where I'm not sure if I would use one. I hope to have one some day, but not necessarily expecting it to be a huge game changer...


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Brian Peters said:


> For some people it probably is....in the work I do, there have been times I wished I had one ,and then several months go by where I'm not sure if I would use one. I hope to have one some day, but not necessarily expecting it to be a huge game changer...


If you dont work with wood much then yeah there's not a massive need for one for sure. Once you use them though its hard to go back to any other way of cutting. Its just so much quicker and accurate than any other way plus dust extraction alone is worth the price. I use the dust extraction outside on it too.


----------



## jlsconstruction

I don't know how you say it's quicker, it's by far the slowest out of worm drive, table saw and track saw.


----------



## Roofcheck

Perfectly straight cuts on any angle. Repetitively. A lot lighter than a table say capable of ripping up to 24". Quicker than a chalk line any circular saw, and perfectly straight.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

jlsconstruction said:


> I don't know how you say it's quicker, it's by far the slowest out of worm drive, table saw and track saw.


Well my old way was measure, pop a line then cut freehand. 

My current way is measure, lay track and push saw down the track. I find I can move the saw much faster than I would have free hand and still keep the cut dead on. Plus the biggest time saver of all is almost zero dust to clean up.


----------



## asevereid

Does anyone know if the Quadrive drill will be available in North America soon enough? And has anyone seen footage of it in hammer mode yet? 
Looks like a very good prospective 2nd or 3rd Festool purchase to me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I heard spring but that was a while back so could have changed.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVincii,

We're fabricating everything here. Then I'm taking the pieces out and installing them. 

IAP is fabricating the center panel. The stave core rails and stiles are coming from a company in Georgia. 

How long? Depends on how long I'm out by you working on my daughters new house.

You mean broke and frazzled? 

Tom


----------



## svronthmve

Deckhead said:


> You get in a fight with some aluminum (the track)? I did that the first day I had the saw thinking it was magic.


Yep, I did it with mine too.....

I didn't support my work properly one time and when I got near the end of the cut it bound the blade up. 

Stupid! Stupid! Stupid!


----------



## tjbnwi

9 hours of cutting------just under 100 liters of dust not airborne. (2-CT 36 bags, 1-CT 22 bag.)

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> 9 hours of cutting------just under 100 liters of dust not airborne. (2-CT 36 bags, 1-CT 22 bag.)
> 
> Tom


 1500sf ipe deck between the Kapex, domino, and track my MIDI collected almost 30gallons in 3days. 
That's like 6 homer buckets. Pretty sick I must say. The remainder was was maybe a cpl of Palm full.


----------



## tjbnwi

Last night I had to replace all the bags again, 36, 22 Midi and Mini. So nice not to work in the mess like the "old" days.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> Last night I had to replace all the bags again, 36, 22 Midi and Mini. So nice not to work in the mess like the "old" days.
> 
> Tom


Tom sounds like your burning some serious wood. Good for you.


----------



## tjbnwi

175 sheets of ¾" Mahogany plywood. In the last two days I plunged over 1300 Domino mortises. By the time this phase of the job is complete over 10,000 Dominos (20,000+ mortises) and 2+ miles of edge banding in the case work.

Yes, I'm out of my f'in' mind.

Tom


----------



## rrk

tjbnwi said:


> 175 sheets of ¾" Mahogany plywood. In the last two days I plunged over 1300 Domino mortises. By the time this phase of the job is complete over 10,000 Dominos (20,000+ mortises) and 2+ miles of edge banding in the case work.
> 
> Yes, I'm out of my f'in' mind.
> 
> Tom


Is you business set up to handle that much volume? The company I used to work for was almost put out of business because of a big job like that. The regular customers did not or could not wait and went somewhere else. When the big job was done there was no other work.

I almost did the same thing a few years ago on a big job but luckily I realized what was going to happen and declined. Can I do the bigger jobs? Yes Should I do the bigger jobs? Not necessarily 

I would have subbed all of that out to a shop with a cnc router and still made money doing my regular stuff. Even still it is too much volume without much more employees for me.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> and 2+ miles of edge banding in the case work.
> 
> 
> Tom


The wife’s going to be looking for her iron :laughing:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

rrk said:


> Is you business set up to handle that much volume? The company I used to work for was almost put out of business because of a big job like that. The regular customers did not or could not wait and went somewhere else. When the big job was done there was no other work.
> 
> I almost did the same thing a few years ago on a big job but luckily I realized what was going to happen and declined. Can I do the bigger jobs? Yes Should I do the bigger jobs? Not necessarily
> 
> I would have subbed all of that out to a shop with a cnc router and still made money doing my regular stuff. Even still it is too much volume without much more employees for me.


Too late now. He's in too deep. Besides it's 2 days of cranking chit out. . 
Tom what's left? Phases days to prep and install. Also how many helpers with you on this .


----------



## Deckhead

Had my first real uh oh moment with festool.

I carry my drills in the 4 drawer sortainer and keep some fasteners, small clamp, kreg jigs, glue, and such in the tackle box on top of the sortainer. Well I headed to go grab a bite during some wait time, forgot my tailgate was down, box and sortainer fell out in a busy intersection... Heard the smash looked in the rear view and see the festool tackle box exploded when it hit the ground, sortainer okay... Then watch a car smash it and drag it 40-50'

Pick everything up out of the intersection and head over to the sortainer expecting to see my drills smashed up with my bits everywhere. 

Everything in the sortainer was fine as was the sortainer except a few scratches and two clips broken. That is a pretty strong testament for festool sortainers.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Deckhead said:


> Had my first real uh oh moment with festool. I carry my drills in the 4 drawer sortainer and keep some fasteners, small clamp, kreg jigs, glue, and such in the tackle box on top of the sortainer. Well I headed to go grab a bite during some wait time, forgot my tailgate was down, box and sortainer fell out in a busy intersection... Heard the smash looked in the rear view and see the festool tackle box exploded when it hit the ground, sortainer okay... Then watch a car smash it and drag it 40-50' Pick everything up out of the intersection and head over to the sortainer expecting to see my drills smashed up with my bits everywhere.  Everything in the sortainer was fine as was the sortainer except a few scratches and two clips broken. That is a pretty strong testament for festool sortainers.


They are stronger than they feel.


----------



## rrk

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Too late now. He's in too deep. Besides it's 2 days of cranking chit out. .
> Tom what's left? Phases days to prep and install. Also how many helpers with you on this .


I know, that's when the "what have I done" moment hits


----------



## dkillianjr

Deckhead said:


> Had my first real uh oh moment with festool.
> 
> I carry my drills in the 4 drawer sortainer and keep some fasteners, small clamp, kreg jigs, glue, and such in the tackle box on top of the sortainer. Well I headed to go grab a bite during some wait time, forgot my tailgate was down, box and sortainer fell out in a busy intersection... Heard the smash looked in the rear view and see the festool tackle box exploded when it hit the ground, sortainer okay... Then watch a car smash it and drag it 40-50'
> 
> Pick everything up out of the intersection and head over to the sortainer expecting to see my drills smashed up with my bits everywhere.
> 
> Everything in the sortainer was fine as was the sortainer except a few scratches and two clips broken. That is a pretty strong testament for festool sortainers.



Man I probly wouldn't have been able to see anything in the mirror with the tears in my eyes:laughing:


Dave


----------



## john5mt

Had a boss do that once with a one of this 36" knaak boxes. He had all of his hand tools in there with wooden separators. Borrowed his brothers ford when his truck was in the shop and it dropped all that crap onto the interaection and tweaked the box


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

My mate in the UK was driving some kind of loader on a site. His boss had just gone and got the centrotec kit and was showing it off to people on the site. Then my mate run over it and crushed it lol.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Deckhead said:


> Had my first real uh oh moment with festool.
> 
> I carry my drills in the 4 drawer sortainer and keep some fasteners, small clamp, kreg jigs, glue, and such in the tackle box on top of the sortainer. Well I headed to go grab a bite during some wait time, forgot my tailgate was down, box and sortainer fell out in a busy intersection... Heard the smash looked in the rear view and see the festool tackle box exploded when it hit the ground, sortainer okay... Then watch a car smash it and drag it 40-50'
> 
> Pick everything up out of the intersection and head over to the sortainer expecting to see my drills smashed up with my bits everywhere.
> 
> Everything in the sortainer was fine as was the sortainer except a few scratches and two clips broken. That is a pretty strong testament for festool sortainers.


need picts man.. need picts.


----------



## tjbnwi

rrk said:


> Is you business set up to handle that much volume? The company I used to work for was almost put out of business because of a big job like that. The regular customers did not or could not wait and went somewhere else. When the big job was done there was no other work.
> 
> I almost did the same thing a few years ago on a big job but luckily I realized what was going to happen and declined. Can I do the bigger jobs? Yes Should I do the bigger jobs? Not necessarily
> 
> I would have subbed all of that out to a shop with a cnc router and still made money doing my regular stuff. Even still it is too much volume without much more employees for me.





CITY DECKS INC said:


> Too late now. He's in too deep. Besides it's 2 days of cranking chit out. .
> Tom what's left? Phases days to prep and install. Also how many helpers with you on this .





DaVinciRemodel said:


> The wife’s going to be looking for her iron :laughing:





rrk said:


> I know, that's when the "what have I done" moment hits


rrk, No, not at all, but that has never stopped me before. I want the case and millwork for the spec homes they're building. Each package is around 650.

City, the worst part was logistics on the first run. We're over that now, everything but 1 lift of plywood is here, I bought the supplier out. Won't see the last lift until 1st week of March. I did prep to much material to finish efficiently on this run. Each group of 40 units takes about 10 days from first cut to the rack for transport. This run also had some moving targets due to changes on their part. Install is 5 per day by myself. 

One, for another few days, 2 others are finishing up other work. 

DaVinci, I have a hot air edge bander. I'm begging Festool USA to send me their new edge bander to test. 

rrk, it's just another job. I've built show cars that have taken over two years.

I spent 4 hours today with the Domino cutting over 1100 mortises and installing over 750 5 mm Dominos just to the make finishing more efficient. Down to my last 1200 5 mm Dominos, time to order 2 more cases of them. I shot video of the finish rack build, now to post it to YouTube. I'll build the transport rack tomorrow while the stain is drying. 

Tom


----------



## rrk

tjbnwi said:


> rrk, it's just another job. I've built show cars that have taken over two years.
> 
> 
> Tom


???? What does a show car have to do with running a construction business?
My point is using all of your resources directed to 1 long project which takes you away from multiple other projects from regular long time customers. All based on "potential" future work.

Unless of course business is very slow for you and time is not an issue.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> I'm begging Festool USA to send me their new edge bander to test.
> 
> Tom


They have one of those?


----------



## Deckhead

CITY DECKS INC said:


> need picts man.. need picts.


:laughing: I wish I had them of me almost getting run over in the intersection sweeping fasteners out of the road but didn't get any. I'll take some of what's left of the festool tackle box and the surviving sortainer... Still deciding on if I want a funeral or cremation of the tackle box.

I drive a large dually so when I say smashed I mean it EXPLODED, I'll show what's left... Very little I'm afraid.


----------



## tjbnwi

rrk said:


> ???? What does a show car have to do with running a construction business?
> My point is using all of your resources directed to 1 long project which takes you away from multiple other projects from regular long time customers. All based on "potential" future work.
> 
> Unless of course business is very slow for you and time is not an issue.


Patience, both take an extreme amount of patience and planning. 

This project is done in phases. When the rooms are ready, I do my install. They down one floor at a time, it's weeks before I can get in to complete our work. This phase has been such a push because the project manager forgot to let me know they started in December. Once we bail him out, it's just another job.

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

So over on FOG I saw this. A cordless ts55! It's not even out yet overseas so you know it's at least a year or two away from hitting NA. 

http://leza.be/uploads/product/pdf/TSC55 Folder.pdf

Also a Festool multitool.

http://leza.be/uploads/product/pdf/VECTURO.pdf


----------



## skillman

overanalyze said:


> So over on FOG I saw this. A cordless ts55! It's not even out yet overseas so you know it's at least a year or two away from hitting NA. http://leza.be/uploads/product/pdf/TSC55%20Folder.pdf Also a Festool multitool. http://leza.be/uploads/product/pdf/VECTURO.pdf


 Very nichie market on that cordless saw . Has to be to much money on return of investment . No dust collection on multitool they missed the mark . The Rockwell one does which I have and use .


----------



## overanalyze

skillman said:


> Very nichie market on that cordless saw . Has to be to much money on return of investment . No dust collection on multitool they missed the mark . The Rockwell one does which I have and use .


I love our Fein and think it has a dust collection adapter. It definitely looks like a direct copy of a Fein SuperCut. Just posted for fun. The saw being cordless could be nice, but agree it will be pricey and not worth having it and a regular powered version.


----------



## tjbnwi

The job is moving along. First set is finished and install these 2 floors go out this weekend. 

In no particular order. The rack of parts goes on a rolling rack once the lower is in the trailer. The two combined are to tall to go through the door.

Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

Just pulled the trigger on a 55 and vac along with some tracks, the kit with angle gauge, parallel guides, extra clamps, extra blade, and some other crap. $2200. Ouch. Only took ripping 18 sheets of 3/4" advantech into 7" strips on my table saw outside this Monday. At least it was sunny. About 3 sheets in I was like "you idiot". I learn after my mistakes. My right shoulder is just feeling better


----------



## Gary H

Morning Wood said:


> Just pulled the trigger on a 55 and vac along with some tracks, the kit with angle gauge, parallel guides, extra clamps, extra blade, and some other crap. $2200. Ouch. Only took ripping 18 sheets of 3/4" advantech into 7" strips on my table saw outside this Monday. At least it was sunny. About 3 sheets in I was like "you idiot". I learn after my mistakes. My right shoulder is just feeling better


You will love the parallel guides . I made a wood case for mine. Very handy


----------



## Morning Wood

The irony. Everything is in but the parallel guides. Oh well. Back to the table saw


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> The irony. Everything is in but the parallel guides. Oh well. Back to the table saw


You do not need the parallel guides for 7" rips. The rail is about 7-3/8" wide. Align the edge of the clamp channel to the edge of the ply and you'll be real close to 7". You should be able to do this by feel. I would not use parallel guide for this width rip. 

Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

Close to 7". I need 7" exact. Doesn't matter, all done with. I want to pick up all the green stuff at once. should be in early this week.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

tjbnwi said:


> The job is moving along. First set is finished and install these 2 floors go out this weekend.
> 
> In no particular order. The rack of parts goes on a rolling rack once the lower is in the trailer. The two combined are to tall to go through the door.
> 
> Tom


That's smart with the Domino-based racking, Tom. I can see a lot of uses for that.


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> Close to 7". I need 7" exact. Doesn't matter, all done with. I want to pick up all the green stuff at once. should be in early this week.


Then put some toilet bolts in the rail groove install a stop. One about a foot from end of the rail will index off the edge if the piece. 

I have a ton of pictures on how to rip consistently. I'm in Cleveland doing the second phase install. Head over to FOG search my screen name for the posts with pictures. 

Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

I'm done ripping. Still haven't picked up saw yet. Now I won't need it for awhile guaranteed. I'm super busy, so I don't want to pick up saw. I know I'll waster 1/2 a day f'ing around with it.


----------



## mobiledynamics

How are you guys storing your tracks.
Any issues with it possibly warping/bowing if I'm storing the longer tracks just vertical against the wall....

Or will I need to lay some shelving up so the tracks sit flat..


----------



## tjbnwi

I set my rails flat on top of one of my shelving units. 

My 106 has a bow in it after 5 years of use. Between transport, heat, cold and general use I consider it normal. I'm cutting it into a 3' and a 3'6", the balance I'll figure something out to due with. 

Tom


----------



## RobertCDF

tjbnwi said:


> I set my rails flat on top of one of my shelving units.
> 
> My 106 has a bow in it after 5 years of use. Between transport, heat, cold and general use I consider it normal. I'm cutting it into a 3' and a 3'6", the balance I'll figure something out to due with.
> 
> Tom


So the bigger question is... will you use the track saw to cut the track?


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> So the bigger question is... will you use the track saw to cut the track?


Most likely the Kapex. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Ever since mcfeelys was bought out and moved to Ohio there service/website have been crap. I don't expect them to last very long unless they clean there act up. I can't even navigate there website and when I do find what I need it's not in stock.

It's a shame I ordered everything through them. I doubt they honor those Festool deals.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> Ever since mcfeelys was bought out and moved to Ohio there service/website have been crap. I don't expect them to last very long unless they clean there act up. I can't even navigate there website and when I do find what I need it's not in stock. It's a shame I ordered everything through them. I doubt they honor those Festool deals.


I have ordered a few bits about 2 years ago and the site was very easy to use. The site is much worse now. its one of them instances where new people come in and think they can make it better but make it worse and destroy it.


----------



## Rich D.

I just ordered a c-12 +3 for 192.28 along with some confirmat screws, melamine glue and edge banding

I got a confirmation email so far.. hopefully they throw it all in a box and send it out !

The other drills were out of stock.


----------



## Rich D.

Just got a call from mcfeelys they said they have been oversold due to a tech issue... So no new Festool for me..

Did anyone's order actually get filled ?


----------



## john5mt

Damn I was about to jump on that


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Maybe 1 guy over on fog. He somehow ordered after me yet got one. I had some issues with mine though so I think there was a delay in processing. 

They didn't even call me. They just sent an email saying I'm getting a refund. No explanation and no apology. I walked away from a hot pizza to go order that. I think it was a plan to get the site some publicity. There's a lot if unhappy campers though.


----------



## john5mt

I can't imagine they'd be allowed to sell festools for very much longer once festool catches wind of that sale.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

john5mt said:


> I can't imagine they'd be allowed to sell festools for very much longer once festool catches wind of that sale.


This did happen with one company a while back. They sold stick at below the standard price and then lost their dealership.


----------



## overanalyze

Amazon has Tanos Anthracite T-loc Sys 3 for $35.


----------



## David7586

overanalyze said:


> Amazon has Tanos Anthracite T-loc Sys 3 for $35.


It's legit! I bought 4 and possibly more..


----------



## john5mt

Going to order some of those, they said they're out if stock but will ship on April 15th. Guess we'll see if it's legit


----------



## Rustbucket

overanalyze said:


> Amazon has Tanos Anthracite T-loc Sys 3 for $35.


Thank you sir! Ordered 3.


----------



## WilsonRMDL

Thinking about ordering one as well, I can wait a month for that price


----------



## tjbnwi

This may have been posted, a heads up of an April 1st Festool price increase. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Just ordered 3 of those 35$ systainers off Amazon! I keep asking myself.. did I order enough ?


----------



## Rustbucket

Rich D. said:


> Just ordered 3 of those 35$ systainers off Amazon! I keep asking myself.. did I order enough ?


Probably not. I'm about to go into the shop and take a quick inventory and see if I need more!


----------



## Brian Peters

tjbnwi said:


> This may have been posted, a heads up of an April 1st Festool price increase.
> 
> Tom


April fools?


----------



## overanalyze

Just ordered 2 myself...not sure what for yet...might move my biscuit jointer and planer into them.


----------



## Rich D.

Does anyone know if the Bosch multi x oscillating tool will fit into the Fein insert for the systainer 2. Greatly appreciated.


----------



## tjbnwi

tjbnwi said:


> This may have been posted, a heads up of an April 1st Festool price increase.
> 
> Tom


Not according to the thread over at FOG. 

Tom


----------



## Inner10

Rich D. said:


> Just ordered 3 of those 35$ systainers off Amazon! I keep asking myself.. did I order enough ?


I hit check out with 8 in the cart and it says won`t ship to Canada.


----------



## Rustbucket

BCConstruction said:


> Well good luck. I called them and they gave some BS reply and im not happy at all. Its such a unreal deal its hard to believe they would honor it. Let us know what happens with your order


Well, the drill was listed on my account as ordered until this morning when it's gone from my history. No emails. No calls. Pretty much as expected.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rustbucket said:


> Well, the drill was listed on my account as ordered until this morning when it's gone from my history. No emails. No calls. Pretty much as expected.


yeah sounds like you got the same result as 99.99% of other people. I still have a pending hold on the money on my card. Some people are saying they dont it to get their end of months figures higher. Im sure thousands ordered so a few thousand people at $300 is over half a million easy.

What pissed me of if they didn't even give a explanation or an apology. They are now on my no shop list. Plenty of other company's who back up what they sell.


----------



## Rich D.

Wow. Atlesst I got a call with a lengthy explanation and apology.

Basically they said the warehouse and website we're not communicating and never went to out of stock.. which is bull.. there was probably a mistake or there playing games to bring traffic to there terrible website


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> Wow. Atlesst I got a call with a lengthy explanation and apology. Basically they said the warehouse and website we're not communicating and never went to out of stock.. which is bull.. there was probably a mistake or there playing games to bring traffic to there terrible website


Yeah the site is poor. There were way too many mistakes with that sale that I can't accept it was mistake.


----------



## Rustbucket

Rich D. said:


> Wow. Atlesst I got a call with a lengthy explanation and apology.
> 
> Basically they said the warehouse and website we're not communicating and never went to out of stock.. which is bull.. there was probably a mistake or there playing games to bring traffic to there terrible website


Well, I just got that same phone call. Now I'm waiting for a call from Amazon regarding those Systainers


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rustbucket said:


> Well, I just got that same phone call. Now I'm waiting for a call from Amazon regarding those Systainers


Funny how I have had no call yet. I'm sure I gave my number.


----------



## Rich D.

Any other size systainers on Amazon cheap? Just the threes ?


----------



## overanalyze

I only saw the 3's.


----------



## Rich D.

Too bad the 5 isant 30 bucks!!

Never got a ship date from Amazon yet.


----------



## Deckhead

All those sys 3's are coming up as $78 now, might as well buy the pretty grey and green, if I needed them.


----------



## Deckhead

Working with an old timer today to help build something free for the church, had to notch some posts with my carvex... It was priceless to see his face when he saw the blade didn't move, no deflection, and very little dust. He kept saying, "I never thought I'd see a day that a sabre saw that looked so silly could do something so well."


----------



## marcsmith

Just wondering what you guys think of the cxs? I'm tossing up the idea of have some sort of a 12v or so drill and impact combo permanently in the finish bag for smalltime millwork installs. Leaning towards the cxs because its just less to carry in comparison to other brands. And let's be honest I'm ready to drink the kool aid.


----------



## dkillianjr

I highly recommend the cxs. Its a great little drill with a decent amount of power. I find myself using it more than my fullsize cordless lately when I can. 


Dave 







marcsmith said:


> Just wondering what you guys think of the cxs? I'm tossing up the idea of have some sort of a 12v or so drill and impact combo permanently in the finish bag for smalltime millwork installs. Leaning towards the cxs because its just less to carry in comparison to other brands. And let's be honest I'm ready to drink the kool aid.


----------



## Deckhead

marcsmith said:


> Just wondering what you guys think of the cxs? I'm tossing up the idea of have some sort of a 12v or so drill and impact combo permanently in the finish bag for smalltime millwork installs. Leaning towards the cxs because its just less to carry in comparison to other brands. And let's be honest I'm ready to drink the kool aid.


I had a homeowner adamant about helping one day, he got that thing out and he just heard crickets and a smile. He asked me what I thought was funny and I told him that we're playing with ipe not "Bob the Builder" stuff. Low and behold that damn thing lasted as long and was almost as strong as my 18v Makita.

This is coming from a Kool Aid drinker but that thing surprised me, the battery lasted forever and the power was incredible for such a small piece. If you are looking small and power... I don't know that it can be beat.


----------



## tjbnwi

The CSX is in a league of its own in compact drills. I have 2 and would give up the higher voltage drills before a CSX. 

Tom


----------



## Inner10

I just bought 3 Sys5s and 2 Sys2s in the new fangled T-loc variety.


----------



## Rustbucket

Deckhead said:


> All those sys 3's are coming up as $78 now, might as well buy the pretty grey and green, if I needed them.


I just noticed something interesting. The Anthracite Sys 3 that was on sale is now listed as the number 1 best seller in the "Bucket Tool Organizers" section on Amazon. To my mind, this says that they lowered the price for a limited time to spur enough sales to move to the top of the best sellers list. And then raised the price so that people coming later assume that they are best sellers independent of price. I.e., it's the best seller, so must be the best! Don't get me wrong, I love Systainers, but just thought it was an interesting marketing tactic. 

I guess the point is, that when looking at the best seller list on Amazon, products could be listed higher because of a recent sale rather than it's qualities. The rating can be artificially obtained through a sale price, which no longer exists.


----------



## Rich D.

Just went to order 3 more systainers.. there back to the regular price now. :sad:

Hope I get them. If I don't I'm calling Amazon to complain. I bet they did do it to get it to the top of the list


----------



## marcsmith

Sounds like I'll have to head down to Lee Valley and pickup the cxs. Looked at it for a solid half hour last time I was there might as well pull the trigger.


----------



## Rustbucket

duburban said:


> No action in the Festool thread? Everyone out of money? Anyone do any polishing with the RO150,RO125,RO90 ? I've got a few pair of headlights to do and can't decide which polisher to stock up on polishing gear for, either the RO150 or RO90


For headlights I would use the RO90. The 150 if you're doing the whole car.


----------



## skillman

Anyone see that a former member of CT Darcy on festool Facebook cover photo . Seen it on Facebook feed other day .


----------



## duburban

skillman said:


> Anyone see that a former member of CT Darcy on festool Facebook cover photo . Seen it on Facebook feed other day .


Just saw that big ole beard.

what happened to him anyway? only time i really disagreed with him was over the crpaulk benches.


----------



## duburban

I'm thinking RO90 also just for the fact that Bob Marino sells 3 packs of all the Platin grits. If i stocked up on 15 of each platin i'd be out $200… I need more things to polish for that money.


----------



## skillman

duburban said:


> Just saw that big ole beard. what happened to him anyway? only time i really disagreed with him was over the crpaulk benches.


 Think he took a break from here .


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

skillman said:


> Anyone see that a former member of CT Darcy on festool Facebook cover photo . Seen it on Facebook feed other day .


No I didn't, what happened to him? I thought he was one of the bois?


----------



## duburban

what about my headlights?


----------



## skillman

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> No I didn't, what happened to him? I thought he was one of the bois?


 Some said he got burned out . So break I guess .


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

duburban said:


> what about my headlights?


They need a good buffing.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

skillman said:


> Some said he got burned out . So break I guess .


No he must of went off the handle on one of his rants:laughing:


----------



## duburban

is there a specific headlight/ plastic UV sealer i should use? i read its worthless unless you do that


----------



## tjbnwi

duburban said:


> No action in the Festool thread? Everyone out of money?
> 
> Anyone do any polishing with the RO150,RO125,RO90 ?
> 
> I've got a few pair of headlights to do and can't decide which polisher to stock up on polishing gear for, either the RO150 or RO90





Rustbucket said:


> For headlights I would use the RO90. The 150 if you're doing the whole car.


I've been a little busy. I bought almost $1000.00 worth of 5 mm Dominos in the last month. 

I agree with Rustbucket, 90 for headlights. Plexus to maintain them once cleaned up.

Shinex and polishing kit is the best way to go on a vechicle. If you're going to use the Rotex, use Griots polishes, if you are using the Shinex use Zaino polish.

Tom


----------



## duburban

tjbnwi said:


> I've been a little busy. I bought almost $1000.00 worth of 5 mm Dominos in the last month.
> 
> I agree with Rustbucket, 90 for headlights. Plexus to maintain them once cleaned up.
> 
> Shinex and polishing kit is the best way to go on a vechicle. If you're going to use the Rotex, use Griots polishes, if you are using the Shinex use Zaino polish.
> 
> Tom


I was going to use festools polishes (water based). I'll check both of those out. 

I also have a nice variable speed (new model) dewalt polisher. I was looking into 3" backing pads for that but the RO90 looked more predictable to me.


----------



## tjbnwi

The Festool polishes are very good. 

Griots is designed to "break up" with an RO, Zainos with a rotary. 

Tom


----------



## duburban

this video clip sold me on the idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVHkQSc2HVk


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I would use Menzerna PF2500 one stage compound. If u want something with less cut then ff3000 or if u want more try fg500. 

The PF2500 works great as a final to the wet sand on the headlights. I use the sealers from Wolfgang on some plastics. Make sure you apply them after every few weeks or after every wash.


----------



## mobiledynamics

Who ever knew there was so many automotive detailers...

Rupes is where it's at ;-/

On headlights, you wear away the UV layer. Best to follow up with UV coating catlyst and a IR cure ...


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mobiledynamics said:


> Who ever knew there was so many automotive detailers... Rupes is where it's at ;-/ On headlights, you wear away the UV layer. Best to follow up with UV coating catlyst and a IR cure ...


That's what my mate uses who details super cars. He's a handy guy to know for detailing tips.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Just noticed 7corners are doing 10% off all their remaining festool products. I see someone over at toolguyd posted about it. http://www.7corners.com/catalog/ind...turers_id=78&zenid=ock2vlbbu4se1rjlcri5mh69m6


----------



## skillman

Home with my daughter today . Watching a bit of festool video stream . Nice to see demo talk at festool 2014 connect .


----------



## Brian Peters

skillman said:


> Home with my daughter today . Watching a bit of festool video stream . Nice to see demo talk at festool 2014 connect .


I watched some too, listened to Kevin O'Connor from This Old House talk for a while... wish I could have been there!


----------



## jlsconstruction

I finally got a bigger vac yesterday.


----------



## Inner10

jlsconstruction said:


> I finally got a bigger vac yesterday.
> 
> View attachment 109788


What model is the little one?


----------



## jlsconstruction

inner10 said:


> what model is the little one?


midi


----------



## skillman

Brian Peters said:


> I watched some too, listened to Kevin O'Connor from This Old House talk for a while... wish I could have been there!


. Was nice of them to live stream some demo tools and teach ideas on using them . Cost us nothin to view . Everyone there got a sys-tool box when it was over .


----------



## skillman

jlsconstruction said:


> I finally got a bigger vac yesterday.


 Big brother and little brother .


----------



## MDjim

skillman said:


> . Was nice of them to live stream some demo tools and teach ideas on using them . Cost us nothin to view . Everyone there got a sys-tool box when it was over .


Hopefully they put it on youtube like they did last year. I was on the fence about making the trip this year, but we decided to go to florida instead. Probably not as fun as connect would have been. Lol


----------



## skillman

MDjim said:


> Hopefully they put it on youtube like they did last year. I was on the fence about making the trip this year, but we decided to go to florida instead. Probably not as fun as connect would have been. Lol


 They live streamed from 9-4pm . Showed videos of Darcy (member of CT )and his shop . As others as well during breaks from live show .


----------



## MDjim

skillman said:


> They live streamed from 9-4pm . Showed videos of Darcy (member of CT )and his shop . As others as well during breaks from live show .


Sounds cool. Hopefully they post some stuff up. 

Ps, anyone know why I can't reply to the tread unless I quote someone? It just started doing it tonight.


----------



## duburban

MDjim said:


> Sounds cool. Hopefully they post some stuff up.
> 
> Ps, anyone know why I can't reply to the tread unless I quote someone? It just started doing it tonight.


They're trying to make you a better scholar of CT.


----------



## MDjim

duburban said:


> They're trying to make you a better scholar of CT.


Ill just make sure the quote makes sense with whatever I have to say. Lol


----------



## joe dirt

My new box, outfitted with bits


----------



## tjbnwi

What's in the micros? 

Nice set up.

Tom


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

joe dirt said:


> My new box, outfitted with bits


Beautiful way to house those Ryobi bits:thumbsup:


----------



## RobertCDF

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Beautiful way to house those Ryobi bits:thumbsup:


And harbor freight nutsetters.


----------



## tjbnwi

My Irwin bits look exactly like the ones in the photo. 

Tom


----------



## joe dirt

micros hold small bits


----------



## AndyWRS

Been putting off buying a few thing on the want list, took the plunge today.

OF 2200 + CT midi combo
OF base accessories kit
Boom arm for my CT36
Guide rail accessory kit
Aluminum / Plastic 68-Tooth Saw Blade

The truth is that only covers half the want list :blink: The rest will have to wait.

The wait beings, I saw some were on BO.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

AndyWRS said:


> Been putting off buying a few thing on the want list, took the plunge today.
> 
> OF 2200 + CT midi combo
> OF base accessories kit
> Boom arm for my CT36
> Guide rail accessory kit
> Aluminum / Plastic 68-Tooth Saw Blade
> 
> The truth is that only covers half the want list :blink: The rest will have to wait.
> 
> The wait beings, I saw some were on BO.


Yeah there's been a delay for a while. Should sort its self out pretty soon though.


----------



## tjbnwi

A 5 gallon taping compound bucket lid makes a great vessel for cleaning the Kapex blades. When done return cleaner to bottle.

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Ive cleaned blades with simple green before with no effects.


----------



## Rustbucket

tjbnwi said:


> I just Googled it. According to Simple Green you cannot soak the blades in Simple Green. Simple Green HD appears to have a different make up and you can soak the blades in it.
> 
> Found this on SMC.
> 
> http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthr...e-from-Simple-Green-about-Cleaning-Saw-Blades
> 
> Tom


Good to know. I've been using Simple Green for 20 years and never had a problem, but that doesn't mean that I won't. I don't let it soak more than a minute or so, so that may be why I've been okay.


----------



## rrk

I have a customer who owns several manufacturing plants for different items. They always will tell their customers not to use the products except for their intended purpose for fear of litigation. In other words if they did not test it for that purpose the answer is no, no matter what.
There is no more "try it and see what happens" response because people sue for everything.


----------



## overanalyze

Ok...the sale on the domino has me twitching....500 or 700? We don't build a lot of big stuff...but not saying we wouldn't. Mostly in my mind it would be used for small cabinetry, built ins, molding alignment..etc. so the 500 right?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

overanalyze said:


> Ok...the sale on the domino has me twitching....500 or 700? We don't build a lot of big stuff...but not saying we wouldn't. Mostly in my mind it would be used for small cabinetry, built ins, molding alignment..etc. so the 500 right?


If it was me I would do the 700 with the Seneca adaptor to take the 500bits. If you never used the 500 then you will never know any better. I have used the 700 a few times on shall stuff and it works great. What's strange is I use it for bigger stuff more than small.


----------



## tjbnwi

I own 2 500's. They are calibrated to be interchangeable. I've used them on big and small items. When the job comes along that is right for the 700 I'll purchase one. The 10% off is not enough for me to put one one the shelf, instead of to work.

There is a learning curve. Do not expect to be an expert with either the first few times using them.

I have used the 700, very nice machine. As BC stated, with the Seneca adapter it may fit your needs.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> A 5 gallon taping compound bucket lid makes a great vessel for cleaning the Kapex blades. When done return cleaner to bottle.
> 
> Tom


Did end up having a bit of the CMT cleaner left. put the blade in for 5mins and made easy work of the gunk on the blade. strained it out and put the fluid back in the bottle. Blade looks like new now. great tip


----------



## tjbnwi

I've always made it clear, when I posted about the Kapex, UG stand or UG extension wings I did not own any of them. All I've ever owned was a couple of Kapex blades (60 & 80 tooth). I did offer to purchase the setup, owner declined to sell.

After 18 months I got "that" phone call on Saturday night. I knew it would come one day. Owner needed it back. I told him I would deliver it back to him on Sunday. 

So what does one do next??????? 

Step 1- tell the wife you need to order a Kapex with stand and wings

Step 2- send Tom from Tool Home an email @ 9 PM on Saturday evening. 

Step 3- wait a coupe of minutes for an email response. "I have them with your name on it"

Step 4- email him "put my address on them".

Step 5- tell the wife how much and what day to expect the delivery.

Step 6- call Tom on Monday with payment info (I had the shipping numbers by then).

Strep 7- Kapex, UG and wings arrive here from Austin Tx. on Tuesday.

Step 8- realize once again what a great tool dealer I have-------and the wife isn't so bad either. 

Tom


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> I've always made it clear, when I posted about the Kapex, UG stand or UG extension wings I did not own any of them. All I've ever owned was a couple of Kapex blades (60 & 80 tooth). I did offer to purchase the setup, owner declined to sell.
> 
> After 18 months I got "that" phone call on Saturday night. I knew it would come one day. Owner needed it back. I told him I would deliver it back to him on Sunday.
> 
> So what does one do next???????
> 
> Step 1- tell the wife you need to order a Kapex with stand and wings
> 
> Step 2- send Tom from Tool Home an email @ 9 PM on Saturday evening.
> 
> Step 3- wait a coupe of minutes for an email response. "I have them with your name on it"
> 
> Step 4- email him "put my address on them".
> 
> Step 5- tell the wife how much and what day to expect the delivery.
> 
> Step 6- call Tom on Monday with payment info (I had the shipping numbers by then).
> 
> Strep 7- Kapex, UG and wings arrive here from Austin Tx. on Tuesday.
> 
> Step 8- realize once again what a great tool dealer I have-------and the wife isn't so bad either.
> 
> Tom


I'd do the same.

Except 1 and 5....wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot pole.


----------



## tjbnwi

I've done 1 and 5 for the last 38 years. She knows what pays for her wants and needs. She's never been able to say, "you didn't tell me", she's always the second to know.

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

I'm going to be picking up a TS55 and debating on using to 55" rails or buy a dedicated long rail. It comes down to the question, how accurate are two joined 55" rails?

Coming from a Dewalt setup, which had a single piece attaching two rails and I never achieved a deadly accurate setup with two rails. I'll be taking this in my van, so if two 55's do the trick it will be more convenient than the 108 (or 106?).


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

72chevy4x4 said:


> I'm going to be picking up a TS55 and debating on using to 55" rails or buy a dedicated long rail. It comes down to the question, how accurate are two joined 55" rails?
> 
> Coming from a Dewalt setup, which had a single piece attaching two rails and I never achieved a deadly accurate setup with two rails. I'll be taking this in my van, so if two 55's do the trick it will be more convenient than the 108 (or 106?).


I use 2 – 55” rails joined. Use a straight edge when assembling them and you’ll be good.


----------



## aaron_a

72chevy4x4 said:


> I'm going to be picking up a TS55 and debating on using to 55" rails or buy a dedicated long rail. It comes down to the question, how accurate are two joined 55" rails?
> 
> Coming from a Dewalt setup, which had a single piece attaching two rails and I never achieved a deadly accurate setup with two rails. I'll be taking this in my van, so if two 55's do the trick it will be more convenient than the 108 (or 106?).


I have a short bed pickup, so I purchased a 55 and 77 inch track. Joined together they stay much straighter than anything else I've used.


----------



## Rich D.

I use 2-55" rails. Never had a problem. Always accurate. I went with 2-55" rails because of the portability of it.. I can stick them on the backseat of my truck no problem.


----------



## StrongTower

I really use my 75" rail way more than I ever did my 55". Especially for cross cuts. 8' level gets two rails pretty darn straight.


----------



## jlsconstruction

I just have a 55 and a 118


----------



## jlyons

I have a 55" and 75" and want a 118". joining is ok but leaves some to be desired. I love me 75".


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I have 42, 55, 118. I have a trailer that the 118 will fit in once I get a storage solution worked up. It's just faster than joining two rails but I do that also when needed. 

Joining two rails with a straight edge works perfect though. Sometimes the saw has gotten hung up at the joint but I think that was because my material wasn't well enough support so the track wasn't perfectly flat.


----------



## john5mt

Get the 55 and 118 setup

Joining is a pain when you want to rip a full sheet then crosscut then rip then crosscut. I went with the two 55s originally and regret it


----------



## AndyWRS

Well I got my OF-2200 2 weeks ago and I finally got a chance to get it dirty. My whiteside bit set took 2 weeks to arrive . Anyway, I had a few hours to mess around and play with the accessories kit, what a machine, I had a ball today. Now I just need a project!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

sancho said:


> Hey bud, How are those jessum guides working for you? Do they replace a feather board? Ive been considering getting them for my CMS


Have not run a lot of material through them but so far so good. I have a feather board for my CMS but these working as a hold down to really save a lot of messing around on the CMS.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Getting there. Just need to get a sheet of mdf and get a insert cut to accept the jessem lift.


----------



## Inner10

You ever gonna build something with all this fancy sh!t?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> You ever gonna build something with all this fancy sh!t?


No they are shelf queens lol


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> No they are shelf queens lol


Have you ever watched p0rn on that big fancy computer of yours?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Have you ever watched p0rn on that big fancy computer of yours?


What a stupid question. Of course I have lol 3 at a time.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> What a stupid question. Of course I have lol 3 at a time.


My next question was going to be if you ever drove your fancy truck in the rain. :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> My next question was going to be if you ever drove your fancy truck in the rain. :laughing:


I do but I wash it right after. I used Gtechnic exo v2 on it a while back so its well easy to keep clean now. That stuff stays on for 2 years.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got it done at last. What a pain in the ass making a template to cut the hole out for the router. But I have tested it a few times already and it works great. The dust extraction is unreal even with the upper guard removed. The jessem material feed guides work great to. Plus I still have use of the table for the kapex do no need to carry around a extra table for the router. It will also function as a jointer too which is nice fir some bits on site I need to straiten up. 

Base is 2 pieces of 3/4 ply glued up and with a slight hump in the middle that drops to almost dead flat when the router is installed.


----------



## john5mt

What do you figure thay setup cost you?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

john5mt said:


> What do you figure thay setup cost you?


I already had every part sitting around doing nothing except the kreg router supports $19.99 and a sheet of cabinet grade mdf $40. 

But if I figured everything there from scratch prob about $1800 for the complete router table setup + the vac. 

My goal was to be able to use what I had left over from my CMS-GE but not take anymore room up in the trailer but still have full use of every tool. Its not very often I need a router table on site but now I can set one up in the MFT kapex in mins its handy to have.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Here is it back as a normal table for kapex.


----------



## tjbnwi

Next time you have to make a temple around a square use your Kreg jig to join pieces that lace around the square. A top bearing bit follows the inside of the template.

I use a 1/4" bit with 2 top bearings.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Next time you have to make a temple around a square use your Kreg jig to join pieces that lace around the square. A top bearing bit follows the inside of the template. I use a 1/4" bit with 2 top bearings. Tom


I thought about doing that or buying the festool jig kit for $500 as it would be handy to have. I got it to within about a 32nd but I wanted it perfect. My mates currently building a cnc that can fit that size sheet into so next time he's milling it on that lol. 

I'm tempted to glue some kind of phenolic sheet over the mdf. Any recommendations on where to purchase some to put over it.


----------



## Tenon Cutter

Does anyone here have any feedback on the Ti15? I just had Acme order one in for me to look at. From what I can see, it's a bad ass impact that is also seemingly larger than my Makita brushless. Also, I'm wondering if the drill setting is as powerfull as I want it to be. Basically, is it both an impact AND and drill, or just an impact that can drill

Any thought appreciated before I drop $560. 
Thanks


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Tenon Cutter said:


> Does anyone here have any feedback on the Ti15? I just had Acme order one in for me to look at. From what I can see, it's a bad ass impact that is also seemingly larger than my Makita brushless. Also, I'm wondering if the drill setting is as powerfull as I want it to be. Basically, is it both an impact AND and drill, or just an impact that can drill Any thought appreciated before I drop $560. Thanks


If your gonna ever pick one tool not to buy made but festool that's the one. You won't find hardly anyone who rates it.


----------



## Tenon Cutter

BCConstruction said:


> If your gonna ever pick one tool not to buy made but festool that's the one. You won't find hardly anyone who rates it.


Okay. Why is that?


----------



## tjbnwi

Being a hybrid, it does not appear to work well for most. I have read posts from some who love the Ti15.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Tenon Cutter said:


> Okay. Why is that?


It's not really great at being a drill or impact. It's really under powered compared to even a $250 impact or even my 7 year old makita impact. It def has the typical festool quality and feel but falls short on performance by quit a bit. Had over to FOG and check the reviews out. Most are not good. There's even been a couple guys on here buy it then return it. 

But test it for 30 days and see how you get on with it. I tried it out and it done what I asked it to but it just didn't do enough for $500+ I bought the cxs and kept my makita drill and impact and I'm gonna add a second cxs because I love it so much.


----------



## Rustbucket

john5mt said:


> On a side note.... Anyone ever get any of their 35$ tloc iiis from amazon yet? I just got an email saying they're sourcing them again, when I have previous emails that said they should of arrived last week. I wonder what's happening now


My credit card was just charged, and the Amazon site says it's preparing to ship. Fingers crossed!


----------



## PrestigeR&D

I received an email yesterday that the Domino is 10% off ,......

Maybe it's time to jump....just to cancel out the GD NYST ........:clap:


I love that thing.....


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Some really like it, some don't. 

you have 30 days to decide.


----------



## MDjim

Rustbucket said:


> My credit card was just charged, and the Amazon site says it's preparing to ship. Fingers crossed!


Same here! Now I need to decide what to put in them..


----------



## PrestigeR&D

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Some really like it, some don't.
> 
> you have 30 days to decide.


Was that directed at me.... were you actually talking to me...



I can't believe it.... a miracle has happened...


:laughing:



Prick.....


:laughing:


----------



## RobertCDF

PrestigeR&D said:


> Was that directed at me.... were you actually talking to me...
> 
> I can't believe it.... a miracle has happened...
> 
> :laughing:
> 
> Prick.....
> 
> :laughing:


I doubt it, I think he was taking to the guy asking about the ti15


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

RobertCDF said:


> I doubt it, I think he was taking to the guy asking about the ti15


Yup.


----------



## Tenon Cutter

RobertCDF said:


> I doubt it, I think he was taking to the guy asking about the ti15


The guy? Come on, I gotta name. It's super cool, and tells everyone I'm a super primary donna timber frame bro


----------



## RobertCDF

Tenon Cutter said:


> The guy? Come on, I gotta name. It's super cool, and tells everyone I'm a super primary donna timber frame bro


Your post count is too low to have a name....


----------



## Tenon Cutter

RobertCDF said:


> Your post count is too low to have a name....


Checkmate. Well played sir, well played


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Ohhh yes :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:


----------



## Rustbucket

BCConstruction said:


> Ohhh yes :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:


Where's the beer?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rustbucket said:


> Where's the beer?


Only got festool beers










Done me label already


----------



## Inner10

Tenon Cutter said:


> Does anyone here have any feedback on the Ti15? I just had Acme order one in for me to look at. From what I can see, it's a bad ass impact that is also seemingly larger than my Makita brushless. Also, I'm wondering if the drill setting is as powerfull as I want it to be. Basically, is it both an impact AND and drill, or just an impact that can drill
> 
> Any thought appreciated before I drop $560.
> Thanks


As BC would say it's "bloody rubbish"


----------



## BBuild

BCConstruction said:


> Ohhh yes :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:


Just ordered one off Festool Products


----------



## Rustbucket

MDjim said:


> Same here! Now I need to decide what to put in them..


Showing them as shipped now. Delivery estimate puts them at my door Tuesday!


----------



## mobiledynamics

But the green rye is what you seek for Memorial Day Monday ? Order it next day air


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

They don't ship until June 15th


----------



## MDjim

Rustbucket said:


> Showing them as shipped now. Delivery estimate puts them at my door Tuesday!


Mine said Tuesday, then today it changed to this Friday.


----------



## chris klee

BCConstruction said:


> Here is it back as a normal table for kapex.


What insert is that on the kapex?


----------



## chris klee

The Ti was a pretty touchy subject at my local wood craft. I asked and they said they won't even stock or display it cause it was embarrassing bad. 
That's was enough for me to leave it alone.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

chris klee said:


> What insert is that on the kapex?


 http://www.festoolproducts.com/Betterley-Zero-Clearance-Insert-for-Kapex-Miter-Sa-p/fki101.htm


----------



## john5mt

BCConstruction said:


> They don't ship until June 15th



I think he's talking about the tanos systainers from amazon and you're talking the sys-ice chest thing

Two of my four systainers are supposedly shipping now


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BBuild said:


> Just ordered one off Festool Products


Looks like we the only ones on here ordering them lol. We must be proper fanboys.


----------



## Inner10

Is the Cooltainer just a Styrofoam insert in a sys 4?


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> Is the Cooltainer just a Styrofoam insert in a sys 4?


From what I have read, it is some type of removable foam insert. Most that have ordered it claim they are removing it from the anthracite systainer and installing it in an a light grey. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> Looks like we the only ones on here ordering them lol. We must be proper fanboys.


I'm sticking with my 42 year old Snap-On cooler.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

does the damned thing at least have a drain?


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> does the damned thing at least have a drain?


Yes--turn it over with the lid open:no:

Tom


----------



## RobertCDF

BCConstruction said:


> Looks like we the only ones on here ordering them lol. We must be proper fanboys.


Looks like it. I had previously considered taking Styrofoam and making my own, but now I'd rather pay 20x as much for Styrofoam just because festool says I should.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

RobertCDF said:


> Looks like it. I had previously considered taking Styrofoam and making my own, but now I'd rather pay 20x as much for Styrofoam just because festool says I should.


I thought about glueing one up ages ago out of Wedi board. But for the $10 more it costs for the foam inside the sys 4 I thought sod it. I already have a bunch of systainers I ain't using and I'm gonna put the insert into one of them and then keep the limited edition sys4 at home to store stuff in.


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> Looks like it. I had previously considered taking Styrofoam and making my own, but now I'd rather pay 20x as much for Styrofoam just because festool says I should.


A Sys 4 T-Loc is $80.00, the cooler is $95.00. You're paying $15.00 for the fitted insert. Which is in line with the other fitted inserts Festool markets.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> A Sys 4 T-Loc is $80.00, the cooler is $95.00. You're paying $15.00 for the fitted insert. Which is in line with the other fitted inserts Festool markets. Tom


Must have cost them more than $15 to ship and make the inserts. Prob be able to sell the limited e diction systainer for $150 in a few months too lol so they are paying us to have a festool cooler. The blue don't match my systainers so can't use it in the trailer anyway. It will clash lol


----------



## Rich D.

Does anyone Remember when Amazon had sustainer 3's t loc's in anthracite for less than 35 bucks each.

Well I remember a bunch of ous ordered them and they were playing games with ous and we never recievied them?

Well I kept the order open since I ordered 3 of them on March 2nd..

Just got an email stating there on there way :thumbsup: 

104.43 before tax for 3 of them!!


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> Must have cost them more than $15 to ship and make the inserts. Prob be able to sell the limited e diction systainer for $150 in a few months too lol so they are paying us to have a festool cooler. The blue don't match my systainers so can't use it in the trailer anyway. It will clash lol


Bull**** they make great money on the systainer alone I'm sure they don't lose their shirts on the foam insert.

I'd rather pay 150 for a hard plastic urethane liner and a drain on the bottom.

I could give two chits and a fvck about a foam insert.


----------



## MDjim

Rich D. said:


> Does anyone Remember when Amazon had sustainer 3's t loc's in anthracite for less than 35 bucks each. Well I remember a bunch of ous ordered them and they were playing games with ous and we never recievied them? Well I kept the order open since I ordered 3 of them on March 2nd.. Just got an email stating there on there way :thumbsup: 104.43 before tax for 3 of them!!


Just got mine today


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Bull**** they make great money on the systainer alone I'm sure they don't lose their shirts on the foam insert. I'd rather pay 150 for a hard plastic urethane liner and a drain on the bottom. I could give two chits and a fvck about a foam insert.


A lot of the cost of a systainer is shipping. They take up a lot of room yet have nothing in them. my Familey in UK owns a big logistics company and it can tell ya shipping large empty boxes ain't cheap. It makes no difference if its a pallet they weights 1Ton or a pallet they weight 50lbs. Its about the same cost. But yeah they def make good money on them. Must be hard not to. You won't find another plastic box that holds value so well though. 

I already got a $400 cooler so the festool is a cheap one compared to that lol


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> A lot of the cost of a systainer is shipping. They take up a lot of room yet have nothing in them. my Familey in UK owns a big logistics company and it can tell ya shipping large empty boxes ain't cheap. It makes no difference if its a pallet they weights 1Ton or a pallet they weight 50lbs. Its about the same cost. But yeah they def make good money on them. Must be hard not to. You won't find another plastic box that holds value so well though.
> 
> I already got a $400 cooler so the festool is a cheap one compared to that lol


The foam fits inside the systainer.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> The foam fits inside the systainer.


Im talking about the cost of systainers. The foam at $15 more aint expensive at all. I paid $20 for some crappy tanos insert a few weeks ago.


----------



## moorewarner

Hey gents. 

My life over the last year plus has been turned upside down and inside out, which means I am setting a new course.

The upshot is I have Festool gear for sale.

Planex+ac36
kapex+ Ugg & wings
cms full set & CO2200

And more, anyone interested pm me.

I was gearing up over the last year for the long haul, now going a different direction.

This stuff has literally been barely used.

I will be looking for around .70 cents on the dollar, but hey come talk me down.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

moorewarner said:


> Hey gents. My life over the last year plus has been turned upside down and inside out, which means I am setting a new course. The upshot is I have Festool gear for sale. Planex+ac36 kapex+ Ugg & wings cms full set & CO2200 And more, anyone interested pm me. I was gearing up over the last year for the long haul, now going a different direction. This stuff has literally been barely used. I will be looking for around .70 cents on the dollar, but hey come talk me down.



Hope its upside down for the better. You will have no problem moving that stuff at them prices.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Oh- I will hook some dust extraction....no doubt about it. ....

Not Festool's .....



Wait till I throw pics tomarrow.......I should have snapped pics of the doughnuts as well...........:laughing:


It is disgusting- the lack of knowledge "some" sales people have....

I was little miffed...they are a snobby bunch over there....

Why...

Thank you D,....

If it wasn't for you- I would have never bothered.......



Thank you,


----------



## overanalyze

Yeah the woodcraft I went into years ago was the same way. It is why I order from Bob or Toolnut. They have the knowledge.


----------



## Tenon Cutter

acme tools.com, 

Or if you are ever in Duluth, Minnesota, talk to Steve at Acme


----------



## aaron_a

Rockler is full of basement dwelling hobbyists. No one seems to have any people skills there. If you're not turning pen blanks out of burled cocobolo, nobody wants to talk to you.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

aaron_a said:


> Rockler is full of basement dwelling hobbyists. No one seems to have any people skills there. If you're not turning pen blanks out of burled cocobolo, nobody wants to talk to you.


:laughing:.....how true it is........

The employees I dealt with yesterday do know a lot about doughnuts though......:laughing:


I downloaded the manual , I'm a paper /records kinda guy......old fashioned I guess....


Thank you,


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

B!!! Enough with the donuts, manual and Rockler! You’ve got a great source of info on the thing right here and the best manual is experience – go build something!

Grab some scrap in the shop and make Mrs. B a shelf or make yourself a new clamp rack. Get the phucking thing out of the closet and make some dust man.

BTW, what kind of donuts did they have? :lol:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I never read my instructions. Its a pretty simple tool.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's really a pretty simple thing to use.


----------



## EricBrancard

aaron_a said:


> Rockler is full of basement dwelling hobbyists. No one seems to have any people skills there. If you're not turning pen blanks out of burled cocobolo, nobody wants to talk to you.


I've noticed Woodcraft is the same way.


----------



## tjbnwi

Domino makes a great slot cutter also. Where else you going to store your pull saw in the Festool tool tote?

Tom


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Alright, alright, alright already......!.....

Don't have to hit me in the head twice with a pan head shovel.....


Once is enough.......


I get the hint....


Stop bitching,,,..:laughing:

In all seriousness ....you have to admit,,,,it should have one...:blink:...


One question....


- The dog ears.....:blink: aren't the pins better....:blink: that was the older model that came with the pins....am I correct.....:blink:

Don't understand that....becuase I haven't even fired it up yet...:laughing: can't see,where those drop in the domino milled port?

Working on a garden the last 2 days after and around work- first time- taking it seriously...I should say....I have been in a vegamatic plantation mode the last 2 days.....

Having fun.....:clap:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Some people like to way over do the dominos and eould use the pins to reference off each hole. That put them at like 4" centers, a complete waste. 

I have a paddle style, never found it to be lacking. 

Did you get the accessory kit with it?


----------



## PrestigeR&D

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Some people like to way over do the dominos and eould use the pins to reference off each hole. That put them at like 4" centers, a complete waste.
> 
> I have a paddle style, never found it to be lacking.
> 
> Did you get the accessory kit with it?


Yes I did D....DF -Q set...

I'll post pics tomarrow....


----------



## tjbnwi

I have boh style Domino 500's. The paddles will not index off the mortice. The pins will not index off a 4 mm Domino mortice. 

The change came about due to operator error. Pins where getting glued in the boss because people were "adjusting" glued mortices. 

You should have the trim stops, they have the pins. The trim stops can introduce spacing error if you're not careful with your initial layout.

My Dominos are adjusted to be interchangeable.

Tom


----------



## PrestigeR&D

I will give you a buzz tomarrow D...

 after 5:00pm....well talk.....


----------



## PrestigeR&D

The pics of my first Festool purchase - with the doughnut slayers...:thumbup: :laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

I hope you've had a chance to use it.

Tom


----------



## PrestigeR&D

:no:......sitting in my shop.......

I've been working every day, for a straight run of 34 days......

I come home and I am one spent cookie.....relaxing is all I want to do when I come home.....

Workaholic.......


I will get to trying it out..as soon as Work slows down- or I have to use it for "work"- profit ....

I think it's a very well designed and engineered machine-:clap:


----------



## aptpupil

tjbnwi said:


> From what I have read, it is some type of removable foam insert. Most that have ordered it claim they are removing it from the anthracite systainer and installing it in an a light grey.
> 
> Tom


Just drop a wood box in a systainer, line it with plastic or release oil and spray some canned foam in the sytainer. Remove the wood and you have a nicely insulated systainer. Seems like it would do the trick for far less. I end up wasting half a can of foam any time I use one anyway.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aptpupil said:


> Just drop a wood box in a systainer, line it with plastic or release oil and spray some canned foam in the sytainer. Remove the wood and you have a nicely insulated systainer. Seems like it would do the trick for far less. I end up wasting half a can of foam any time I use one anyway.


The can of foam and wood will cost more than buying the cooler systainer. Plus it will look like s**t lol


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

PrestigeR&D said:


> Well,
> I can see where blueridge is coming from. I have 3 CS's . One for junk cutting, one for out in the field and one for the shop , strictly for using on sheet/ply wood material only.
> 
> 
> JMPOV,



Exactly:thumbsup:..... how I roll with all my tools.

Soon as a new one comes in......somebody gets demoted to second-string....then third.

Making the starter do rough duty, just goes against my "system".

I'm gonna do it. I just needed a little more persuasive personal experience. As in...."I've done it, many times, and my $700(?) saw is not all seized up and lying in a corner somewhere".

I guess if my old DW has taken it for this long.....the 55 or 75 can too.

I know it's silly. It's a personal problem.......I'm tryin'.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> Arizona sand (I know---- sad that I know that, supposedly it is the most abrasive sand there is).
> 
> I use my tools, if it breaks or wears out, I fix it or buy a new one. They're tools not museum pieces. Not saying abuse them, just use them as you would any other. I cut drywall and cement board with it.
> 
> Clean the rail and saw after use. I have 3 TS's so I can pick and choose.
> 
> Dust extraction is great the bag does clog up faster. I believe Festool does not sell the cement blades here because we do not get the M dust class CT's here.
> 
> I have the cement board blade for the 55 so I would use the 55 on soapstone.
> 
> I'm considering having a diamond blade punched to use on concrete.
> 
> I used screws in the holes in the ends of the rail. I usually use 2 sided tape, easier to set the rail over head, did not any with me.
> 
> Tom


That leads to another question.

I usually use regular carbide blades for soapstone.

I love the 3(?) toothed monster for Hardie, but am a little reluctant on the soap.

Have you ever used the CMT/HardieBlade on soapstone? Where do you get those for the 55?


----------



## tjbnwi

No, I have not use it on soapstone. I also have the Festool solid surface blade for the 55. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom @ Tool Home. 

(512) 428-9140

[email protected]

Tom


----------



## J.C.

I bought a 6" diamond blade when I cut my soapstone.


----------



## TimelessQuality

Track saw question... If you need a splinter free cut on both sides of the cut, I'd normally cut from the back. Does the track saw control splintering and tearout on both sides of the cut?


----------



## Morning Wood

TimelessQuality said:


> Track saw question... If you need a splinter free cut on both sides of the cut, I'd normally cut from the back. Does the track saw control splintering and tearout on both sides of the cut?


 I find the better cut is usually the top. If you want splinter free both sides, you need to cut on a solid surface with a spoils board. Also, running the additional splinter guard on the 55 REQ helps.


----------



## overanalyze

TimelessQuality said:


> Track saw question... If you need a splinter free cut on both sides of the cut, I'd normally cut from the back. Does the track saw control splintering and tearout on both sides of the cut?


If you use the splinter guard on the right side of the blade you will get very good cuts. I find the softer the veneer, the more chance of having a little tear out. Obviously a sharp blade helps also. I always cut finished side up.


----------



## tjbnwi

A properly set right of blade splinter guard with the correct clean and sharp blade leaves a splinter free cut on both sides of the blade. The TS-55 EQ, you need a splinter guard for each depth you cut, I was told this is not the case with the R. I have not looked at mine yet to know if that is the case.

One other thing about the splitter gird, you must remove it on the E model too make bevel cuts, on the R it can stay in place.

There are 2 different right side pieces for the R, a clear viewing window and the green splinter guard. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I beat the bag off my Festools. They are tools after all. 

I can't take the tool polishers and collectors that festool seems to draw. 

They were made to use and use hard. 

I have no fear of destroying one.


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I beat the bag off my Festools. They are tools after all.
> 
> I can't take the tool polishers and collectors that festool seems to draw.
> 
> They were made to use and use hard.
> 
> I have no fear of destroying one.


FOG is hobbiest central.

We can't all be like BC, some of us have to make a living with our tools.


----------



## mobiledynamics

Whos going to buy the cordless TS when it comes to market....


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> FOG is hobbiest central. We can't all be like BC, some of us have to make a living with our tools.


 I use my tools. I do keep them clean though. 

So far I have cut alloy, CBU, Wedi board, drywall and tiger claw tc3's lol 

I'm not shy in using them for what they designed and worse. They still all work great. 

Someone there called me when I sent my ts55r back for the recall and said what on earth haVe I been cutting as every tooth on the blade was destroyed. That's what happens when you hit about 30 tc3 that were in the way. Still cut like butter somehow.


----------



## mobiledynamics

BC -

I presume you are using vac so the dust doesn't kill the bearings..


----------



## tjbnwi

I use dust extraction on all my Festools ( the ones that can be connected). That is one of the best thing about them, ckean work environment. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mobiledynamics said:


> BC - I presume you are using vac so the dust doesn't kill the bearings..



Yeah that's the top reason to own them. Almost zero dust.


----------



## mobiledynamics

Not sure if you guys seen it. Aside from the TS Cordless, they are coming out with a percussion drill. Look like they are expanding from their lineup...I don't follow FOG, so maybe there is even more.

Personally, I would not invest in the cordless as I'm just invested in Red....but their new cordless lineup is catching my eye..


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mobiledynamics said:


> Not sure if you guys seen it. Aside from the TS Cordless, they are coming out with a percussion drill. Look like they are expanding from their lineup...I don't follow FOG, so maybe there is even more.
> 
> Personally, I would not invest in the cordless as I'm just invested in Red....but their new cordless lineup is catching my eye..


There's a lot of great products heading our way soon. Just a shame we can only get about 30% of what they sell in Europe.


----------



## country_huck

BCConstruction said:


> There's a lot of great products heading our way soon. Just a shame we can only get about 30% of what they sell in Europe.


Has anybody have the answer to why we don't get most of there line of tools here. Is it festool, or is it logistics, or American safety standard/ testing.


----------



## tjbnwi

I know that Festool will not release a tool that is not UL listed. My insurance requires I use listed tools and equipment. The process is time consuming and costly. They test to UL standards not manufacture specs. That is why the Kapex has a safety switch. 

The second issue, in my opinion, is Festool is a victim of their own success. They cannot meet the demand with their current facilities. Again, my opinion. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

john27 said:


> Heavy??? it one of the reasons i got one is its so small and light:laughing:
> The side handle has never came out of the systainer, the same as any drill i have ever owned
> 
> john...



The Quadrive is what I found to be a little on the heavy side, at least for all day use.


----------



## john27

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The Quadrive is what I found to be a little on the heavy side, at least for all day use.


I had the 22v hilti before the Festool, i guess thats why i think the Festool is so small and light. 

John..


----------



## Sisyphus

BCConstruction said:


> I'm not fully getting the cordless tools like the jigsaw and TS from festool. The whole point of these tools is dust extraction. So being cordless is about as much use as a chocolate fire guard. Guess they are great if dust extraction ain't the main point in owning them though.


Apparently the bag collects 90% of the dust according to the video here

http://www.slingers1858.co.uk/TSC-55-Cordless-Plunge-Saw/


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Sisyphus said:


> Apparently the bag collects 90% of the dust according to the video here http://www.slingers1858.co.uk/TSC-55-Cordless-Plunge-Saw/


Looks like it catches a fair bit of dust for not having a vac attached.


----------



## aaron_a

Does anyone here have the carvex? I've been wanting to replace my bosch for a while now and am thinking either the carvex or the trion. Some of the reviews I've seen say the carvex doesn't do too well with back cutting scribes, which is mostly what I use a jigsaw for.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have the corded and cordless.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> Does anyone here have the carvex? I've been wanting to replace my bosch for a while now and am thinking either the carvex or the trion. Some of the reviews I've seen say the carvex doesn't do too well with back cutting scribes, which is mostly what I use a jigsaw for.


Both are very good jigsaws. The Carvex does have a issue where if your trying to back cut a scribe in the field it wont be able to do it because of the way the base operates. Close to the edge of the material is fine but not anywhere else in the material. I aint used the jigsaw in this situation yet as i use my RAS for scribes so it's not been an issue for me.


----------



## aaron_a

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I have the corded and cordless.


How do you like them? Top handle or barrel grip? I'm leaning towards a barrel.

Bc, what's an ras?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> How do you like them? Top handle or barrel grip? I'm leaning towards a barrel.
> 
> Bc, what's an ras?



I got the d handle as i can use it as a barrel grip too. I will say though the D handle aint anywhere near as ergonomic to use as my makita and the safty button is in a strange place so i find my self using it as a barrel grip most times.


----------



## aaron_a

My bosch is a d handle. I use it mostly as a barrel style these days though. What's the RAS you use for scribing?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Both are barrel grips. The corded is easier to hold upside down. I finally got around to putting a coping foot on one of them. Twisty back angled cuts are easy now. 

I have the base kit as well, have not messed with it too much. 

I actually like the cordless one a lot.


----------



## Deckhead

I swore up one side and down the other I didn't need the carvex because I had a Trion and the Bosch d-handle with a band saw in the shop. Sold the Trion got the carvex and bases. The carvex is sweet, love the barrel grip now. I wouldn't use it for scribes too much either, but had to cut through some drywall and cutting to plane out an opening the other day, kind of dark on an addition in doing, made for a couple hour job (after putting up plastic in the house to control dust, cutting and getting crap in my eyes, chiseling out where I wasn't close enough because I couldn't see, etc) take a few minutes. Owner was watching and not real happy about me just cutting away until she saw very little mess, I smiled, swept up, done and done.

RAS is a grinder, probably has a flap disc sanding wheel.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> My bosch is a d handle. I use it mostly as a barrel style these days though. What's the RAS you use for scribing?


Check the video out I posted.


----------



## aaron_a

BCConstruction said:


> Check the video out I posted.


Ah, doesn't work on my phone. I'll check it out when I'm in front of a computer later.


----------



## RobertCDF

I have the trion in barrel grip and the carvex in d handle, love them both. The carvex is surprisingly light.


----------



## overanalyze

I have the barrel grip Trion and like it alot! I can't see the need for the Carvex features for what I use a jigsaw for. I am trying to get the Bosch 12v cordless barrel grip...that seems like the perfect size to put a collins foot on for coping and scribing.


----------



## Deckhead

Like all festool stuff you end up finding stuff to use the carvex on.


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Guess who is jumping on the systainer band wagon......:blink:


http://youtu.be/UuBMKw3FcnE




I know nothing about these........quality, durability,functionality...etc,etc,etc,....

I did notice a malfunction on the right "snap"....


----------



## aaron_a

I guess I'll have to go in and try them out. Looking at the carvex more, the only bonuses I see are the brushless motor and the strobe light. I use a router and trammel for radius cuts, but I could see where the carvex base could be nice...

A cordless one seems pretty smart for the coping foot. I'll have to look into the dewalt 20v one.


----------



## overanalyze

PrestigeR&D said:


> Guess who is jumping on the systainer band wagon......:blink:
> 
> http://youtu.be/UuBMKw3FcnE
> 
> I know nothing about these........quality, durability,functionality...etc,etc,etc,....
> 
> I did notice a malfunction on the right "snap"....


They have been out for a while. They are rebranded Sortimo boxes. I have a couple and they are nice. Kindof a cross between the Dewalt Tough system and a Tanos T loc.


----------



## Morning Wood

yes, i have the progressive hose. I use my fein hose on it because it is longer. saving up for a festool hose.


----------



## tjbnwi

Collected dust from one days cutting and machining. 

Over the sat 2 days I've gone through 2- Midi, 1- Mini and 1-36 bag.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> yes, i have the progressive hose. I use my fein hose on it because it is longer. saving up for a festool hose.


The 36 mm hose will be the same length as the one that came with the Midi. If you want a larger hose look at the Tradesman Installer Set. They also make a 36 mm by 5 meter hose.

Tom


----------



## mobiledynamics

FWIW, Nu-Ice seems to outperform the Artics by a edge.
For me, it boiled down to performance ...value.
While I like they way they have sized the packs *the 5lb* fits the width of both my 75 and 120qt nicely.....I don't think it provides value. Never will see anything more than a days use. Hardly ever get to go camping these days. Maybe when the kids get older....

In testing them, they afforded not extra benefits over the blue cool packs. Since I picked up the 120qt, I wanted alot of *ice blocks to create a thermal mass*. A bakers dozen of blue ice only ran me about $30 and in testing, it last just as long as the Chill-N-Brew for the time used.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mobiledynamics said:


> FWIW, Nu-Ice seems to outperform the Artics by a edge. For me, it boiled down to performance ...value. While I like they way they have sized the packs *the 5lb* fits the width of both my 75 and 120qt nicely.....I don't think it provides value. Never will see anything more than a days use. Hardly ever get to go camping these days. Maybe when the kids get older.... In testing them, they afforded not extra benefits over the blue cool packs. Since I picked up the 120qt, I wanted alot of *ice blocks to create a thermal mass*. A bakers dozen of blue ice only ran me about $30 and in testing, it last just as long as the Chill-N-Brew for the time used.


I prob wouldn't use them in my pelican. Would have used my $3 ones if they were better sized. I can get enough food and drinks for my greedy ass in the cooltainer with them though lol.


----------



## Brian Peters

One reason I love my Kapex..


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Brian Peters said:


> One reason I love my Kapex..


Try and do that with any other brand lol. I have attempted it with Bosch and Makita and it didn't go as planned.


----------



## tjbnwi

Adjust and lock Z-yep
Clamp rail to lock X-yep
Set and lock Y-NOPE

I'm such a dumbass. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Router?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Adjust and lock Z-yep Clamp rail to lock X-yep Set and lock Y-NOPE I'm such a dumbass. Tom


That sucks...turn it into two short tracks and it will be less painful.


----------



## overanalyze

Ouch! Definitely sucks Tom.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Router?


Yes. I forgot to lock the guide rail adapter rods in the base. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Adjust and lock Z-yep Clamp rail to lock X-yep Set and lock Y-NOPE I'm such a dumbass. Tom


Lol oops. What length was it?


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> Lol oops. What length was it?


1080/2

Tom


----------



## mobiledynamics

I'm returning my blue ice packs and thinking about some nu-gel......

Took a box of them and froze the blue ice packs in the freezer. Needless to day, all of them bulged in varying spots. NOT good for the plastic and I can see it easily rupturing. My former ones, same make/model never did that.

The short owned ChillnBrews did not do this. Plus they had a nice built in carry handle 

Uggh, decisions decions.
Got a shopping cart ready to checkout.
$160 Buys ALOT of ice. Just not apples2 apples on wet cooler versus a dry *cold* cooler


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mobiledynamics said:


> I'm returning my blue ice packs and thinking about some nu-gel...... Took a box of them and froze the blue ice packs in the freezer. Needless to day, all of them bulged in varying spots. NOT good for the plastic and I can see it easily rupturing. My former ones, same make/model never did that. The short owned ChillnBrews did not do this. Plus they had a nice built in carry handle Uggh, decisions decions. Got a shopping cart ready to checkout. $160 Buys ALOT of ice. Just not apples2 apples on wet cooler versus a dry *cold* cooler


All my other ice packs bulge like that except the attic ice


----------



## carpenter uk

tjbnwi said:


> Adjust and lock Z-yep
> Clamp rail to lock X-yep
> Set and lock Y-NOPE
> 
> I'm such a dumbass.
> 
> Tom


that will still work ok with a new replacement strip on it
just does not look very good:blink:


----------



## TRMolnar

Hey guys,

So I've been working on this master bathroom all week - sanding drywall patches with my Ets125. 

The thing is great but my biggest problem with it is the hose and cord from the sander get tangled and separated and annoy me constantly.

Does anyone know if they make some sort of cord wrap or sleeve that will keep the hose and cord together? I really don't want to just wrap electrical tape around it and most of the Velcro in the store doesn't seem to be right..


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Tape...

Does that have to be Festool as well....


It gets a little overboard for me.....sometimes.....


JMPOV,


----------



## StrongTower

TRMolnar said:


> Hey guys, So I've been working on this master bathroom all week - sanding drywall patches with my Ets125. The thing is great but my biggest problem with it is the hose and cord from the sander get tangled and separated and annoy me constantly. Does anyone know if they make some sort of cord wrap or sleeve that will keep the hose and cord together? I really don't want to just wrap electrical tape around it and most of the Velcro in the store doesn't seem to be right..


 Velcro works wonders. Fastcap makes wraps.


----------



## TimelessQuality

Surely there's some kind of green clip to keep the cord on the hose...


----------



## TRMolnar

http://assets.rockler.com/media/cat...3525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/2/22108-02-1000.jpg

Good call!

I guess I looked in the wrong catalog! Thanks for the help


----------



## mobiledynamics

BCC - 

Wanna play enabler so I checkout the shopping cart

I like the *dry cooler* premise.
The size in which it both fits the bottom panels, sides and tops (IMO, top is more important than bottom, as cold air flows). I can acheive this better than with regular ice cubes.

In testing, they did not last any longer than I needed , that what I already have on hand. However, I don't have enough for my new 120qt chest and am looking for options to fill up the 120qt on thermal cooling mass...


----------



## BBuild

TRMolnar said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> So I've been working on this master bathroom all week - sanding drywall patches with my Ets125.
> 
> The thing is great but my biggest problem with it is the hose and cord from the sander get tangled and separated and annoy me constantly.
> 
> Does anyone know if they make some sort of cord wrap or sleeve that will keep the hose and cord together? I really don't want to just wrap electrical tape around it and most of the Velcro in the store doesn't seem to be right..


http://www.festoolproducts.com/Techflex-Gorilla-Sleeve-1-Length-p/nhn1.htm


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mobiledynamics said:


> BCC - Wanna play enabler so I checkout the shopping cart I like the *dry cooler* premise. The size in which it both fits the bottom panels, sides and tops (IMO, top is more important than bottom, as cold air flows). I can acheive this better than with regular ice cubes. In testing, they did not last any longer than I needed , that what I already have on hand. However, I don't have enough for my new 120qt chest and am looking for options to fill up the 120qt on thermal cooling mass...


What are the ones your looking at now? 

I should say all them ones I have that expand out in spots have never ever split and they have been used daily froze and defrosted about 200+ times easy.


----------



## mobiledynamics

Most likely Nu-Gel. Not a fan of the pakaging (questionable longevity).
I did like the Artic Handles / overall packaging

I have tones of Blue ice. Not one of them expand out (different freeze rates) like the new batch. I dunno, but I would think that Plastic is not going to like the expansion/contraction..it's not like it's just a mosquite sized bulge. It's pretty huge..on some packs, some not so huge, but nontheless, bulges..


----------



## tjbnwi

TRMolnar said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> So I've been working on this master bathroom all week - sanding drywall patches with my Ets125.
> 
> The thing is great but my biggest problem with it is the hose and cord from the sander get tangled and separated and annoy me constantly.
> 
> Does anyone know if they make some sort of cord wrap or sleeve that will keep the hose and cord together? I really don't want to just wrap electrical tape around it and most of the Velcro in the store doesn't seem to be right..


Techflex Sleeve. 

http://www.techflex.com/prod_pet.asp

1.50 for the 27 mm-2.0 for the 36 mm.

Get the heat shrink tubing for the ends.

Tom


----------



## TRMolnar

You guys are awesome!!! Those sleeves are perfect! 

Tom - can I order from the link you posted? I can't see where to add to cart


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

TRMolnar said:


> You guys are awesome!!! Those sleeves are perfect!
> 
> Tom - can I order from the link you posted? I can't see where to add to cart


Click "online dealers" and it gives you a few sites you can order from.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Techflex Sleeve.
> 
> http://www.techflex.com/prod_pet.asp
> 
> 1.50 for the 27 mm-2.0 for the 36 mm.
> 
> Get the heat shrink tubing for the ends.
> 
> Tom


So do you just get that for the entire length of your hose and go ahead and put a plug it cord in the hose and heat shrink it and use it/store it that way?


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> So do you just get that for the entire length of your hose and go ahead and put a plug it cord in the hose and heat shrink it and use it/store it that way?


2.75 to 3 meters per hose. 

Plug it cord is placed next to the hose, the sleeve is placed around the cord and hose. You may need yo remove the tool end cuff. Use the heavier gauge cord in this assembly so it fits all the tools. It is the cord without the nub on the tool side.

You can use either the the shrinkable tubing or cable ties to secure the ends. 

It does come in green.

Make sure you place the sleeve so the cord ends reach the tool and CT receptacle. 

Tom


----------



## MDjim

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2014/08/08/festool-ct-wings/

Ill probably get these. Seems useful


----------



## parkside

Just got my cxs drill and haven't had a chance to use it yet, any suggestions on driver and drill kits, any aftermarket. Am I missing something or does festool not really offer smaller driver kits for there drills. This will be my dedicated cabinet install and punch list drill. Was thinking of ordering the installers kit, found a company selling them for 375.


----------



## tjbnwi

I have the installer set and like having everything in one place. 

Snappy makes Centrotec Vix bits and drivers. Atlas Machine out of Canada if you want Robertson Screwlox bits. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

Some pics of my new extensions. Multiblades brackets and Kreg Fence.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> Some pics of my new extensions. Multiblades brackets and Kreg Fence.


Looking nice Andrew!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I could pack at least 12 tons of iron in that vacant floor space, and a bunch of festools too.


----------



## overanalyze

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I could pack at least 12 tons of iron in that vacant floor space, and a bunch of festools too.


Lol! Yeah we have great shop space. I want to add a small jointer to our shop and have been checking CL. That will take up some space...lol.


----------



## skillman

What is the best vacuum for the Ts 55 Req .Ct midi , Ct 26 the bigger ones say they have better suction . Went to a dealer and the guy really did not give much info . 

Did really know the product . Said saw comes with a 55" rail .


----------



## MDjim

skillman said:


> What is the best vacuum for the Ts 55 Req .Ct midi , Ct 26 the bigger ones say they have better suction .


I don't know about the suction, but I kind of wish I would've gotten a midi instead of my 26. Just to save space on the truck, and the 26 gets heavy when the bag starts too get full.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

skillman said:


> What is the best vacuum for the Ts 55 Req .Ct midi , Ct 26 the bigger ones say they have better suction . Went to a dealer and the guy really did not give much info . Did really know the product . Said saw comes with a 55" rail .


They have the same suction. The choice is yours. I went with the 26 and I will add the Midi one day. 
Midi would be lighter and more portable. 

Saw does come with a 55" rail.


----------



## BBuild

XB is right, all the current vacs have the same motor and cfm with the only exception being the 36AC. It has a non hepa so it will give more suction. The midi seems the most popular for site work due to it's small size and decent capacity. It is only 2" taller than the mini but has over 50% more bag capacity. The new mini and midi also have an updated hose garage with a t Loc catch.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

I have the midi and Ts55, great combo. I love the size of the midi. My boss has the ct22 and it is a beast for having on site. I have never had an issue with the suction, actually on time I was cutting down a ton of plywood panels and I forgot to change the bag the vac literally packed sawdust all the way to the hose inlet so tight I had to pry the saw dust out.


----------



## skillman

The mini and midi have 130 cfms . The others have 137 cfms . Max suction capacity .


----------



## KennMacMoragh

I got this forstner bit set, people keep telling me Ipe is impossible to drill through. So I got these to be prepared for my Ipe deck, they are super sharp, can't wait to try them out.


----------



## BBuild

skillman said:


> The mini and midi have 130 cfms . The others have 137 cfms . Max suction capacity .


I just double checked on festool USA. All of their current vacs are rated at 137 CFM


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

KennMacMoragh said:


> I got this forstner bit set, people keep telling me Ipe is impossible to drill through. So I got these to be prepared for my Ipe deck, they are super sharp, can't wait to try them out.


I got the same set. They are only for new very clean work I know has zero nails in. The cut like you wouldn't believe. Not cheap but they will last a lifetime.


----------



## tjbnwi

KennMacMoragh said:


> I got this forstner bit set, people keep telling me Ipe is impossible to drill through. So I got these to be prepared for my Ipe deck, they are super sharp, can't wait to try them out.


They can be resharpened. Leitz will sharpen them.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> They can be resharpened. Leitz will sharpen them.
> 
> Tom


30 sharpenings to be exact.


----------



## Rich D.

KennMacMoragh said:


> I got this forstner bit set, people keep telling me Ipe is impossible to drill through. So I got these to be prepared for my Ipe deck, they are super sharp, can't wait to try them out.


Zobos?

Solid carbide ...


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> 30 sharpenings to be exact.


Assuming you don't chip it...


----------



## Rich D.

Inner10 said:


> Assuming you don't chip it...


If you chip it u can get probly 10 out of it still! There solid carbide.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

where is leitz?


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> where is leitz?


Nearest location to you would be New Jersey. Check the "Looking for a blade sharpener in northern NJ. in this section.

http://www.leitztooling.com/locations.htm

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

10 miles from my house, they pick them up at my doorstep.


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> Assuming you don't chip it...


Seeing as you're drilling a hole a nick should not matter. They can still make it sharp. That is one thing about the Festool Zobos and brad point bits, they are scary sharp.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

BBuild said:


> XB is right, all the current vacs have the same motor and cfm with the only exception being the 36AC. It has a non hepa so it will give more suction. The midi seems the most popular for site work due to it's small size and decent capacity. It is only 2" taller than the mini but has over 50% more bag capacity. The new mini and midi also have an updated hose garage with a t Loc catch.


You can put a non hepa filter in the midi, not sure it will help with suction though. I have it in mine and it works great. Don't know how you would really test the difference. I'm sure there's a way, I just haven't looked into it.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Rich D. said:


> Zobos?
> 
> Solid carbide ...





Rich D. said:


> If you chip it u can get probly 10 out of it still! There solid carbide.



They are not carbide.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> You can put a non hepa filter in the midi, not sure it will help with suction though. I have it in mine and it works great. Don't know how you would really test the difference. I'm sure there's a way, I just haven't looked into it.


I gave tested them
Side by side ct36ac vs ct26 and the 36 has quite a bit more suction. The filter for one helps a lot with lowering the restriction of air and not having a bag as a primary filter helps lots too.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I gave tested them
> Side by side ct36ac vs ct26 and the 36 has quite a bit more suction. The filter for one helps a lot with lowering the restriction of air and not having a bag as a primary filter helps lots too.


I'm just wondering if the sponge filter for water would work for just sawdust (composite dust is more like small chips). Our would fine dust get to the internal parts still? That would allow even less restriction. The reason I ask is composite dust clogs easily and a little more suction may be the answer.


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They are not carbide.


Are they at least carbide tipped?


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> Are they at least carbide tipped?


No, just very high quality tool steel.

I've drill Ipe with my 19mm, about 50 holes. Just as sharp after the last hole as it was when I started.

Tom


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> No, just very high quality tool steel.
> 
> I've drill Ipe with my 19mm, about 50 holes. Just as sharp after the last hole as it was when I started.
> 
> Tom


That's pretty weak for the price.


----------



## tjbnwi

Find a carbide Fostner that can be sharpened 30 times. 

I bet the engineers figured out carbide was not the answer for the Zobo bits. 

Tom


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> Find a carbide Fostner that can be sharpened 30 times.
> 
> I bet the engineers figured out carbide was not the answer for the Zobo bits.
> 
> Tom


If it's anything like auger bits a carbide will last a year without sharpening, a high quality steel one will last about 2 weeks.


----------



## Rich D.

tjbnwi said:


> Nearest location to you would be New Jersey. Check the "Looking for a blade sharpener in northern NJ. in this section.
> 
> http://www.leitztooling.com/locations.htm
> 
> Tom


U mean north Carolina?


----------



## Rich D.

WarnerConstInc. said:


> They are not carbide.


A Festool rep told me the new forstners are carbide...

That's unbelievable.


----------



## tjbnwi

Rich D. said:


> A Festool rep told me the new forstners are carbide??


Here is the Festool product page. No mention of carbide;

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-to...rstner-style-bits-5-piece-set-imperial-500174

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Rich D. said:


> U mean north Carolina?


Probably, I had the NJ thread on my brain. 

(Constantly proving I'm an idiot)

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Did some research .. yup they aren't 

A rep told me they were and that's why the can't be sharpened so many times...

I can't beleieve he didn't know ...


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> If it's anything like auger bits a carbide will last a year without sharpening, a high quality steel one will last about 2 weeks.


Mine are a couple of years old, have not had to have any sharpened yet. The 19 has hundreds of holes drilled with it. Pine to Ipe.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Rich D. said:


> Did some research .. yup they aren't
> 
> A rep told me they were and that's why the can't be sharpened so many times...
> 
> I can't beleieve he didn't know ...


I sent Shane an email to see if he could clarify the material. Received an auto reply that he is on vacation. I'm sure he'll let us know when he returns.

Tom


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> I sent Shane an email to see if he could clarify the material. Received an auto reply that he is on vacation. I'm sure he'll let us know when he returns.
> 
> Tom


Hit it with a file and it will become very apparent.


----------



## Rich D.

It was the rep that does the northern nj area.. wish I remembered his name.. I spent about and hour and a half going over tools with him at my building supply. He also took my info down and told me he would send me a shirt and some stuff.. never got that.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Mine are a couple of years old, have not had to have any sharpened yet. The 19 has hundreds of holes drilled with it. Pine to Ipe.
> 
> Tom


Just curious if you have the Imperial set as well. If not, is it an issue having the Metric set being in the US?


----------



## Calidecks

RPM's are real important when it comes to Forstner bits. You want to try to avoid getting them too hot. They work best in a drill press.


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Just curious if you have the Imperial set as well. If not, is it an issue having the Metric set being in the US?


I have both. Got the metrics "used", though no holes were drilled with them (amazes me how many purchase tools that are never used). Got the imperial with my Installer Set. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> RPM's are real important when it comes to Forstner bits. You want to try to avoid getting them too hot. They work best in a drill press.


Mine go in my cordless drills, usually the CSX gear box set low speed/hi-torque.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

What kinds of things do you use them for...? Obviously for cabinet doors and I would guess hand rails for the balusters. Mike got the one a little while back for using for drilling for riser lights. Just wondering what they get used on.


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> I have both. Got the metrics "used", though no holes were drilled with them (amazes me how many purchase tools that are never used). Got the imperial with my Installer Set.
> 
> Tom


You can get pretty damn close to Imperial with the metric. I know I use a 25mm for 1" friction held riser lights. That half a mm or so smaller makes a big difference, especially if your hand slightly wobbles when you drill it. But I need the carbide due to heat produced from composite. I buy the Famag. You're going to pay about 70 bucks each for them though.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> It don't feel right turning them the other way. You lot from VA are backwards lol


But if you think about it, you do turn it that way when you unlock from the stack. Or do you go all the way around? Lol


----------



## Pitto

BCConstruction said:


> Catch me if you can lol




having used mine for the past 4 weeks, my setup time has halved, and my back likes me just that little bit more not lifitng heavy oversized toolboxes.

i still have a galvanized toolbox that i need to sort out into systainers and its driving me nuts


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Just spent a few hours at Festool HQ this afternoon.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Just spent a few hours at Festool HQ this afternoon.


And... :blink:


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Just spent a few hours at Festool HQ this afternoon.





DaVinciRemodel said:


> And... :blink:


My guess is photo shoot for next years catalog:laughing:. 

Tom


----------



## TimelessQuality

Maybe development work on a new beard trimmer??


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I just happened to be close so I stopped in. There may have been a discussion about next year's catalog. Saw some new tools we may get next year, caught up with some of the guys and gals down there.


----------



## Irishslave

DaVinciRemodel said:


> And... :blink:


His reproductive tract is so drained he won't be "knowing" his wife for weeks


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Irishslave said:


> His reproductive tract is so drained he won't be "knowing" his wife for weeks



So clever you are.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> So clever you are.


You have to admit that was some funny chit! :laughing: :laughing:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I guess.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

*Hepe non hepa Festie*

BC, ..anybody who has one. quick question. If use the non hepa filter on the midi will suction increase like the AC 36? Or will the vac bag still restrict? 
They both have the same 137 cfm but the AC will suck up a small dog if not paying attention. 

Thanks
City


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> BC, ..anybody who has one. quick question. If use the non hepa filter on the midi will suction increase like the AC 36? Or will the vac bag still restrict?
> They both have the same 137 cfm but the AC will suck up a small dog if not paying attention.
> 
> Thanks
> City


Yes, I responded in the other thread.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> Yes, I responded in the other thread.
> 
> Tom


So to make sure I'm we are clear. 
No Hepa and self cleaning bag and suction get's stronger? Like AC strong?


----------



## Calidecks

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...extractors/filters/main-filter-element-456790

I use this filter on my Midi. Just so I'm understanding, the midi with this filter sucks just as well as the ac36?


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> So to make sure I'm we are clear.
> No Hepa and self cleaning bag and suction get's stronger? Like AC strong?


All the new CT's use the fleece self clean bags. 

According to Festool's specs all the CT's are 96"wc.

I don't see that much difference between the CT's.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...extractors/filters/main-filter-element-456790
> 
> I use this filter on my Midi. Just so I'm understanding, the midi with this filter sucks just as well as the ac36?


Yo Cali. let me tell Ya. I just got the AC a cpl of weeks ago. Plugged it in wasn't paying attention and almost ripped my shorts off. All last week I used 9-10 hrs per day grinding brick mortar joints for an interior tuck pointing job. At the end of the day I get dusting on my boots and hands and light coating on floor. Vac it up and walk out there like a Gentleman. Hands down better the Hilti's I had in the past. Plus there not even close to being user friendly. Were talking 52 hrs of running this day in day out clean the filter at end of day with shop vac and just manually hit the AC button about every 1/2 or so. Going through 5-6 lil more then 1/2 bags per day. That's about 30 or so gallons. We have 2/other jobs lined up for the next 3/week. This will running 9-10hr days for the month. Have 3/basement lined up this winter. I have not had a chance to hook to the kapex I bet the composite would not be an issue. I just wish it was midi size. This this is beast next to it.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...extractors/filters/main-filter-element-456790
> 
> I use this filter on my Midi. Just so I'm understanding, the midi with this filter sucks just as well as the ac36?


The motor is the same (137 CFM), each would have a 1 micron filter. Should yield the same results.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...extractors/filters/main-filter-element-456790
> 
> I use this filter on my Midi. Just so I'm understanding, the midi with this filter sucks just as well as the ac36?


Cali that's the non hepa.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I'm going to order a non hepa and see what happens. Yes Tom I agree there are the same. And the only difference that see is that AC came with a non Hepa. I have not used it with the self cleaning bag yet only the disposable . Thanks. Come to think of it I wonder if they both use the filter hepa or non? They look exactly the same.


----------



## tjbnwi

The disposable bags are the self clean bags. 

Do you mean long life bag? If so you don't want it for your work. The dust will clog it in a day. It is meant for chips, not dust.

The filters are interchangeable. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Cali that's the non hepa.


Yes I use the non hepa, if should perform slightly better as far as suction power goes. I use a 5' 36mm hose with the non hepa filter I believe I'm at maximum efficiency.

Anyone see where I could improve, please I'm all ears.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> The disposable bags are the self clean bags.
> 
> Do you mean long life bag? If so you don't want it for your work. The dust will clog it in a day. It is meant for chips, not dust.
> 
> Tom



The life long are out of my scope.
The midi uses these: http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/self-cleaning-filter-bags-ct-midi-/p/498411/

I've only had the opportunity to use the disposable liner because I'm grinding mortar joints: http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/disposable-liner-ct-ac-5x-ct-ac/p/496215/


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Yes I use the non hepa, if should perform slightly better as far as suction power goes. I use a 5' 36mm hose with the non hepa filter I believe I'm at maximum efficiency.
> 
> Anyone see where I could improve, please I'm all ears.


I think you're at the limit of what you can get out of the combination. 

Is the dust scupper on the saw? Maybe it got knocked off somewhere along the way.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> The life long are out of my scope.
> The midi uses these: http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/self-cleaning-filter-bags-ct-midi-/p/498411/
> 
> I've only had the opportunity to use the disposable liner because I'm grinding mortar joints: http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/disposable-liner-ct-ac-5x-ct-ac/p/496215/


I did not realize you have not used a self clean bag yet. I believe 1 of each came with my AC. 

No bag also increases air flow as the bag is the primary filter. I don't use my CT's without bags, makes no sense to me. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> I think you're at the limit of what you can get out of the combination.
> 
> Is the dust scupper on the saw? Maybe it got knocked off somewhere along the way.
> 
> Tom


No but I was not paying attention and had my mind on something else one day while cutting a 4x4 and it wasn't tight to the fence. It kicked back and chipped the plastic piece that holds the scupper.

Here is a pic


----------



## tjbnwi

A little hot glue?

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> I did not realize you have not used a self clean bag yet. I believe 1 of each came with my AC.
> 
> No bag also increases air flow as the bag is the primary filter. I don't use my CT's without bags, makes no sense to me.
> 
> Tom



Same here. what's the point of dumping and bathing in all that crap.


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> A little hot glue?
> 
> Tom


You mean to fill in the space to prevent drag? The piece is not to be found.


----------



## overanalyze

Hmm...I don't need the Hepa filter for most jobs either. I have a non-hepa that came with my midi I have never used. I'm gonna swap it and see myself. I always use the fleece bags too.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> You mean to fill in the space to prevent drag? The piece is not to be found.


I'll have to look at mine tomorrow for comparison.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Yes I use the non hepa, if should perform slightly better as far as suction power goes. I use a 5' 36mm hose with the non hepa filter I believe I'm at maximum efficiency.
> 
> Anyone see where I could improve, please I'm all ears.


Like I mentioned up the pipe. I have not had the time to use side by side with Kapex. I do know that the AC sucks a lot better the midi. Now keep in mind I have only been using the liners for dust not the standard filter on AC.
So once I get 5/min I will hook up the kapex to AC with self cleaning bag and with out and put a non hepa filter on the midi. I don't know if the AC is stronger because of the non hepa filter and disposable liners or will perform the same as midi once I put self cleaner bag in it.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

So Tom, or anybody, for woodworking stuff, there is no need to run the Hepa filter in the vac and I'd get better performance without it?


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> So Tom, or anybody, for woodworking stuff, there is no need to run the Hepa filter in the vac and I'd get better performance without it?


For the most part yes. There are some woods the HEPA would be better. Make sure you still use the bags. 

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> For the most part yes. There are some woods the HEPA would be better. Make sure you still use the bags.
> 
> Tom


Oh boy do I ever use the bags. I LOVE not having to clean up dust.
I'm assuming what came with my CT26 is a Hepa filter...? I've only used it for plywood, pine, poplar, and MDF so far I believe. Not a true wood worker yet. :laughing:


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Oh boy do I ever use the bags. I LOVE not having to clean up dust.
> I'm assuming what came with my CT26 is a Hepa filter...? I've only used it for plywood, pine, poplar, and MDF so far I believe. Not a true wood worker yet. :laughing:


I never use my Hepa filter, I don't ever have a dust problem either. The non hepa is still a very good filter. I believe all CT extractors come with a hepa. They would have to in order to sport that hepa cert sticker on the side. I think the non hepa is only about 30 bucks. Also if allows you to save the Hepa filter to use only when needed.


----------



## tjbnwi

One day worth of collected saw dust. 

Had this amount every work day for a month.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

In order of suction power

1.CT36AC non HEPA filter and plastic liner
2.CT36AC non HEPA filter and self clean bag
3.CT26 with HEPA filter and fleece bag

Not only does number one setup have quite a bit more power than the other 2 but the power stays till the bag is almost full. Where as when you you add the fleece bag as soon as you switch that thing on your gonna have a loss of suction. 

As some have said this really only apples to fine dust like concrete and drywall compound. Wood seems to affect it differently but outcome and order of power is still the same. 

Also with the AC don't forget the blast gate. Makes a big difference to suction.


----------



## Calidecks

Will plastic liner work with the midi?


----------



## aaron_a

Just picked up this bad boy. My
Bosch 470e was driving me nuts.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I had to shut the lights off on both of mine.


----------



## aaron_a

I actually like the lights. I haven't used it much, but on the few cuts I used I thought it was pretty nice. Visibility with the splinter guard kind of sucks though.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The strobe drove me up the wall.


----------



## Rich D.

So how many here use self clean bags with a non hepa filter? For my 36 ac i purchased self cleaning bags and a hepa to use as my everyday dust collector.. For drywall dust i switch back to the clear bags and non hepa.. Is anyone haveing problems running non hepa all the time?


----------



## tjbnwi

You can use either filter. You'll do no harm to the unit. If you want to get really cheep don't use bags. It is a mess dumping the dust, so I always you a bag.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Don't the bags filter the dust which saves the filter?


----------



## tjbnwi

Yes, the bag is the initial filter. 

That said---------the 36 AC uses the 1 micron filter and the plastic liner. The liner leaves the filter exposed to the drywall dust. You could use a liner while cutting and sanding wood.

The filter will degrade faster when not using a bag or using a liner.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

I love using the bags. I've had my ct 26 since March and haven't needed to clean, let alone change my filter.


----------



## Morning Wood

My T55REQ just burned up today. I bought it in march-April. All I've done is built ins with it. I've never burned up a tool in my life. I wasn't pushing it or anything. It just started to smoke. I ripped a sheet of fir ply down for finish kicks, and was then ripping 5' tapered pieces of 2x pt to level out a deck. I'm bummed out. I expected more from this thing. Going to give festool a call in the morning and see what they can do.


----------



## tjbnwi

They'll take care of it. I have 2-55's and a 75. My original is at least 5 years old and has 100's of thousands of feet of cuts on it. That includes all the hardwoods I have ripped with the 48 tooth blade. 

Only tools I've ever burnt up were jobsite table saws. Literally have started them on fire ripping. I guess that's why I don't use one anymore. 

Head over to FOG and PM Shane. He'll get the process started for you. You can PM him from here come to think of it. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

What blade were you using to rip the 2x pt? Possibly a dull 48t blade could of put excess strain on the motor..


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Rich D. said:


> What blade were you using to rip the 2x pt? Possibly a dull 48t blade could of put excess strain on the motor..


yes it can. I about burned out my ts55 doing the same thing.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Rich D. said:


> What blade were you using to rip the 2x pt? Possibly a dull 48t blade could of put excess strain on the motor..


It won't work at all now?

Why does everyone think a 6 1/2" 48t blade was meant to rip with?


----------



## Nick R

28t blade changed the saw for me. So much easier to rip wood and even great cuts on ply. I just put the 48t back in today because the 28 was chipping melamine too much.


----------



## Calidecks

Nick R said:


> 28t blade changed the saw for me. So much easier to rip wood and even great cuts on ply. I just put the 48t back in today because the 28 was chipping melamine too much.


Just so everyone's aware. If you're cutting composite the 28t is the best blade as well, That I've found. I've tried them all so you don't have to. :laughing:


----------



## Morning Wood

I was using the 28 tooth. I only use the 48 if I need a really clean cut in cabinet ply. I ripped 9 pieces of 3/4" fir ply for kicks, then switched out to tapered pieces of 2x pt for flatening the joists on a deck. I was only ripping 5' pieces. I was using the parallel guides and stops and was getting really nice pieces. I wasn't pushing the saw or anything but taking my time. I was running a new bag in the vacuum and everything. It still runs, but sounds like crap. I can see a lot of blue arcing in the motor. Has no power. It literally started to smoke when cutting. I stopped it and it smoked more. I then ran it free a bit to see if it would cool off. I'm going to send it in and see what the repairs end up being. In the mean time I had to make a rip fence up for one of my sidewinders and start measuring by hand etc. It wasn't as much fun thats for sure. no vac and not as accurate. I was going like 5/32" to 5/8" over 5' on the tapers. The parallel guides were nice for that.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> Just so everyone's aware. If you're cutting composite the 28t is the best blade as well, That I've found. I've tried them all so you don't have to. :laughing:


Thanks. We will be doing a deck in a couple months. Good info to know.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's under warranty. And within one year, free shipping too. 

The MMC controls should have shut it down before it hurt itself.


----------



## Morning Wood

maybe i should get a 12 tooth blade for heavier stuff


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It won't work at all now?
> 
> Why does everyone think a 6 1/2" 48t blade was meant to rip with?


I have the 28 and 12 tooth blades. Sometimes lazy takes over.

Yes, I know better.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Thanks. We will be doing a deck in a couple months. Good info to know.


The 28t Tenyru (spelling?) Is what I found to be a great blade for composite.


----------



## overanalyze

I have 2 Tenyru blades for our 55. They are good blades. I have actually had good luck with the Oshlun brand as well.


----------



## chris klee

I know better than to come in with no pics so I will have to bing that tomorrow. I bought an impact back in the summer and bough a Bosch. Of course, I picked up a sys1 and recently just got some foam and make a new home for the impact. So much easier when that stupid bag isn't sliding around. 

Also, learned a truck my accident. Had a few 2x4's in the bed next to my open top sys tool box and one hit my caulk gun, which moved over and hit my can if wd-40. Coated my whole bed full of tools in it. It did clean up some if the dirty boxes up pretty nice. My compressor hasn't been that shinny and clean since it was new!


----------



## AustinDB

can someone give me the dims of the MFT/3 in stored form? Can it be stored in either dimension (length or width)?


----------



## Calidecks

I have these handles on all mine to fit in my truck boxes and lift out easier


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

72chevy4x4 said:


> can someone give me the dims of the MFT/3 in stored form? Can it be stored in either dimension (length or width)?


Folded up you're looking at 45 9/16 x 30 7/16 x 7 3/32. That would be without the rail and fence attached to it.
Are you asking if it can be stood up on either end? If so, then yes. Mine hangs on a door in my trailer for transport or is open on the job site 99% of the time.


----------



## sshooyman

So it started out slowly with a MFT-3, 2 tracks and a TS-55. Then accelerated extremely out if control to a domino 500, domino assortment kit, OF-1400, RO-125, CT-36 and a cooltainer just because... Waiting on the Kapex with MFT. All of this within about two months thanks to y'all!! looking forward to more in the future!!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It will level out soon enough.


----------



## overanalyze

That's a haul. Looks like a nice shop too.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

sshooyman said:


> So it started out slowly with a MFT-3, 2 tracks and a TS-55. Then accelerated extremely out if control to a domino 500, domino assortment kit, OF-1400, RO-125, CT-36 and a cooltainer just because... Waiting on the Kapex with MFT. All of this within about two months thanks to y'all!! looking forward to more in the future!!


What an introduction! In more ways than one.


----------



## sshooyman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It will level out soon enough.



It will have to level out. Three kitchens that need cabinets. I need to stop learning new tools and start learning cabinets. The router table cabinet was the test build. A few lessons learned there..... Metric to imperial conversions not quite my thing yet, blew through the face frame for the dominos joining the box. Ops....


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It will level out soon enough.


Not it won't you lie lol


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I now got my sights on the TSC55 now. Had a lot of doors to cut down lately and all were done outside and that would have been perfect


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I now got my sights on the TSC55 now. Had a lot of doors to cut down lately and all were done outside and that would have been perfect


Ok what's the tsc?


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> Ok what's the tsc?


Cordless


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I got to play with that saw last week. It can be used with one or two battery's, not as heavy as I thought it would be and the run time seems good. Not sure how they are planning to offer it in regards to batteries and chargers.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I got to play with that saw last week. It can be used with one or two battery's, not as heavy as I thought it would be and the run time seems good. Not sure how they are planning to offer it in regards to batteries and chargers.


 In the UK its £399 with 2 batteries and charger and no track

That's $650 in our money.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have a feeling it will be more then that.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I now got my sights on the TSC55 now. Had a lot of doors to cut down lately and all were done outside and that would have been perfect


I don't know. If it leaves dust like the corded, even outside sucks (no pun intended) without dust extraction. Just doesn't make much sense to plug in the vac and not the saw.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> I don't know. If it leaves dust like the corded, even outside sucks (no pun intended) without dust extraction. Just doesn't make much sense to plug in the vac and not the saw.


That's exactly my thought. I'm so used to no dust from these tools. It saves cleanup time, mess, and is just nicer. You have to clean off your tracks if you don't hook up to dust extraction way too often.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Is it true rockler had their dealership revoked from festool? What person would decide to stop selling them when they are such great sellers and gaming market share by the day


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Is it true rockler had their dealership revoked from festool? What person would decide to stop selling them when they are such great sellers and gaming market share by the day


They fvcked up


----------



## aaron_a

I was told they're switching to mafell.


----------



## Calidecks

I talked to the manager and he said somebody broke the rules


----------



## aaron_a

Hm, wonder what they did...


----------



## Calidecks

He said they are in negotiations with Festool. But it probably fell through. Now they are probably looking for another vender. Mafell would be interesting


----------



## tjbnwi

Seeing as Mafell has only one dealer in North America and they really suck at service going to Rockler for their common items would help them in this market. Timber frame tools should stay with the other dealer.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

If rockler can't handle selling Festool, what makes them think they could sell mafell?


----------



## aaron_a

Maybe rockler is like the hipster of woodworking and festool was getting to mainstream. They needed find something more obscure and elite.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

My kid loves this cooler. Its his food and drink storage on the weekends and also his seat when eating 

Multi function cooler


----------



## Morning Wood

Rockler is so far from being the cool kid with wood working it's not even funny. Where do I go to find reconditioned tools? After all, I'm going to own a reconditioned t55REQ pretty soon.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Bob marino.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

So I just got the carvex about a week ago and have used if a couple times. I'm really not so pleased with the amount of play there is in the blade. I have the Bosch with precision control and it has way less play. I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this or if I'm doing something wrong. Also I might add that I followed the Festool video on getting started with the carvex and how to adjust the blade supports.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Did you adjust the guides?


----------



## Tylerwalker32

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Did you adjust the guides?


 yes a couple of times.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

What blade and what are you cutting? How thick?

I have noticed the festool blades perform better then other t shank blades. 

I tighten the guide down until it won't move then back it off a touch.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

WarnerConstInc. said:


> What blade and what are you cutting? How thick? I have noticed the festool blades perform better then other t shank blades. I tighten the guide down until it won't move then back it off a touch.


 I was cutting osb today and last week I was cutting some 4" thick white pine. I was using a Bosch clean wood blade, today I was using one of the blades that comes with the saw.


----------



## tjbnwi

Explain "play in the blade". 

Is it in the holder or the lower jaws?

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

I just got mine last week and tighten my guides like werner describes, I haven't had any problems. I'm pretty blown away by it in fact.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

tjbnwi said:


> Explain "play in the blade". Is it in the holder or the lower jaws? Tom


 it the forward and back motion in the holder. It just doesn't seem to hold the blade into the lower jaws. I'm gonna play around with it some more this weekend.


----------



## aaron_a

StrongTower said:


> Tired of having to sacrifice inaccuracies, I finally gave in. If this isn't accurate enough, I guess nothing will be.


I still find myself wishing i would have bought the kapex over the bosch. The bosch does a nice job, but it's so damned heavy and the dust collection is a joke.


----------



## StrongTower

aaron_a said:


> I still find myself wishing i would have bought the kapex over the bosch. The bosch does a nice job, but it's so damned heavy and the dust collection is a joke.


 That's the two I was going in between. Having run almost every dewalt model there is, loving the capacity and the worklight, I grew very tired of having to compensate 1/2 degree here and there to make big miters work. Not to mention the flex in the saws. Didn't bother me all the time, just when it mattered it frustrated me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I noticed festool upgraded the warranty to 3 full years from the 1+2 one they had. That's pretty sweet. 

Your gonna love that kapex. Take a little while getting used to it but once you do there's no comparison to any other saw.


----------



## shofestoolusa

Just to add to what Barri posted about our warranty, what that means is that *we now pay for ground shipping to and from our repair center should you need a warranty repair*. I don't know of any other tool company that does this. The service is just as important as the tool to us. 

In a time when the words "customer service" have become pretty meaningless and diluted, we want to be a company that holds true to what it's suppose to mean. No fine print, no hoops to jump through, no having to threaten or argue to get what you deserve.

Learn more on our website about all of the components of what we call "Service All-Inclusive". Be sure to register your tools, too.

http://www.festoolusa.com/service/


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

shofestoolusa said:


> Just to add to what Barri posted about our warranty, what that means is that we now pay for ground shipping to and from our repair center should you need a warranty repair. I don't know of any other tool company that does this. The service is just as important as the tool to us. In a time when the words "customer service" have become pretty meaningless and diluted, we want to be a company that holds true to what it's suppose to mean. No fine print, no hoops to jump through, no having to threaten or argue to get what you deserve. Learn more on our website about all of the components of what we call "Service All-Inclusive". Be sure to register your tools, too. http://www.festoolusa.com/service/


Shane what's the deal with no guys coming out to the demo day here next week. Always looked forward to that each year and I heard Keith has moved on to another area in festool now.


----------



## shofestoolusa

BCConstruction said:


> Shane what's the deal with no guys coming out to the demo day here next week. Always looked forward to that each year and I heard Keith has moved on to another area in festool now.


I was under the impression that our new guy for your area would be there. I'll check on it and see what he says. His name is Kyle.

Shane


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

shofestoolusa said:


> I was under the impression that our new guy for your area would be there. I'll check on it and see what he says. His name is Kyle.
> 
> Shane


Broflovski?


----------



## shofestoolusa

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Broflovski?


Could be. He does have the right color hat. :thumbsup:


----------



## shofestoolusa

Looks like Kyle won't be at the WC demo day. Bummer. Sorry about that.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

shofestoolusa said:


> Looks like Kyle won't be at the WC demo day. Bummer. Sorry about that.


Oh well. Gonna have to start buying dewalt now lol


----------



## shofestoolusa

BCConstruction said:


> Oh well. Gonna have to start buying dewalt now lol


Dang, guess I'll have to hop in the truck and swing by to see you next week! 

Seriously, if you ever need anything, I'm just down the road (sorta).


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yeah I remember you saying your just down the road. Shame no ones there as its their 30th anniversary and they got some good sales on for woodcraft. They never do 10% of power tools so could get quite a few people going through there Friday and Saturday next week. I think they doing 15% off everything else. Festool not included though lol.


----------



## StrongTower

Just playing around with the Kapex, getting it setup on my stand and familiarizing myself with it. I thought, of things that completely irratated me with my past saws. Setup a stop and cut a 4 way miter on 6 1/2" scrap. I'm impressed, since I've not even fine tuned this thing yet.


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> Just playing around with the Kapex, getting it setup on my stand and familiarizing myself with it. I thought, of things that completely irratated me with my past saws. Setup a stop and cut a 4 way miter on 6 1/2" scrap. I'm impressed, since I've not even fine tuned this thing yet.


Be carful fine tuning it. 

The 0º setting is left/right 45º is in out. It is very sensitive to the smallest movement.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> Be carful fine tuning it.
> 
> The 0º setting is left/right 45º is in out. It is very sensitive to the smallest movement.
> 
> Tom


You could get yourself in deep with no easy way out.


----------



## brhokel606

Well Gentlemen, I ordered the TS 55 today, accessories kit and another 55" rail. Should be in here in the next few days, first Festool....hope it's the cats meow cause it is not cheap. I have been looking at the Kapex. Just finished up a large deck around an oval pool, tons of mitered corners and kind of left me disappointed with the Dewalt 12" slider. At full pull and cutting a 45 degree, the blade pushes at least 1/8" off of 90 degrees, not acceptable for finishing work. But $1400???


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You could get yourself in deep with no easy way out.


I spent at least an hour studying the Kapex detent system before I made the tweaks on my Kapex.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

brhokel606 said:


> Well Gentlemen, I ordered the TS 55 today, accessories kit and another 55" rail. Should be in here in the next few days, first Festool....hope it's the cats meow cause it is not cheap. I have been looking at the Kapex. Just finished up a large deck around an oval pool, tons of mitered corners and kind of left me disappointed with the Dewalt 12" slider. At full pull and cutting a 45 degree, the blade pushes at least 1/8" off of 90 degrees, not acceptable for finishing work. But $1400???


If you can swing it, call your dealer and get a CT. That way you get the 10% off the CT. I know Tom will honor the 10% for up to 30 days.

You will soon be getting the 2700 or 3000 rail.

Closer to $2200.00 with the UG stand, wings and a CT.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Closer to $2200.00 with the UG stand, wings and a CT.
> 
> Tom


I'm offering Dad to not give me my year end bonus this year so I can get a Kapex setup. lol.

Probably going with Kapex MFT, wings, and Midi (have CT26)

Hopefully soon...


----------



## overanalyze

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I'm offering Dad to not give me my year end bonus this year so I can get a Kapex setup. lol.
> 
> Probably going with Kapex MFT, wings, and Midi (have CT26)
> 
> Hopefully soon...


Just make sure the little lady doesn't find out you passed on your bonus..lol!


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I'm offering Dad to not give me my year end bonus this year so I can get a Kapex setup. lol.
> 
> Probably going with Kapex MFT, wings, and Midi (have CT26)
> 
> Hopefully soon...


Purchase it with your bonus, then it is yours when you finally cut the daddy apron strings. :laughing::laughing::clap:

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Purchase it with your bonus, then it is yours when you finally cut the daddy apron strings. :laughing::laughing::clap:
> 
> Tom


I thought they were training wheels... :laughing:

See the idea behind this scheme is I offer to waive my bonus and he says "wow, you really want it bad. must be a great tool. You deserve the bonus and the saw for being an awesome son" Least that's how it supposed to play out... :laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I thought they were training wheels... :laughing:
> 
> See the idea behind this scheme is I offer to waive my bonus and he says "wow, you really want it bad. must be a great tool. You deserve the bonus and the saw for being an awesome son" Least that's how it supposed to play out... :laughing:


Kids always think they're smarter than their parents.:no:

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

One question about the Kapex... When it's winding down, is it me, but it kind of sounds like a bag of marbles? Is this the norm?


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> One question about the Kapex... When it's winding down, is it me, but it kind of sounds like a bag of marbles? Is this the norm?


Normal. 

With the motor position it needs a gear set to change rotation orientation.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

That's gear drive for you.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Well they just put the ras reconditioned 30% off. I'm really thinking about getting one now. Is the TL different than the .04 e? What are the differences?


----------



## Calidecks

StrongTower said:


> One question about the Kapex... When it's winding down, is it me, but it kind of sounds like a bag of marbles? Is this the norm?


I asked the exact same thing


----------



## Calidecks

I will be ripping 4 sheets of plywood into 1.5" furring strips, is the Parallel guide a good choice for that?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> I will be ripping 4 sheets of plywood into 1.5" furring strips, is the Parallel guide a good choice for that?


I don't use them. I have a different method and I think Tom might do something similar. Mark 1.5" from the edge plus saw blade width (roughly 3/32") the goal is to set the track where after the cut your off cut is 1.5"

After you set it once, get a combination square and set it up such that all you do is but it to the edge of the ply and the ruler pushes the track to where it needs to sit. You'll never have to measure again.

Happy ripping!

Hopefully the photo explains it better than me.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I don't use them. I have a different method and I think Tom might do something similar. Mark 1.5" from the edge plus saw blade width (roughly 3/32") the goal is to set the track where after the cut your off cut is 1.5"
> 
> After you set it once, get a combination square and set it up such that all you do is but it to the edge of the ply and the ruler pushes the track to where it needs to sit. You'll never have to measure again.
> 
> Happy ripping!
> 
> Hopefully the photo explains it better than me.
> 
> View attachment 119519


Nice one!


----------



## TimelessQuality

Wouldn't a repetitive rip be more of a tablesaw job?


----------



## Calidecks

TimelessQuality said:


> Wouldn't a repetitive rip be more of a tablesaw job?


Not when you can cut multiple sheets with the track saw


----------



## TimelessQuality

Californiadecks said:


> Not when you can cut multiple sheets with the track saw


Ahh didn't think of that..


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> Not when you can cut multiple sheets with the track saw


Or when you only have a job site saw and it's going to take two people. Oh, and I hate wrestling full sheets of plywood. Especially on a job site saw. Nicer to set two on a table, clamp them, and move a track.

Did I mention no dust?


----------



## skillman

Californiadecks said:


> I will be ripping 4 sheets of plywood into 1.5" furring strips, is the Parallel guide a good choice for that?


 Cant you buy furring bundles at your local yard .


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Or when you only have a job site saw and it's going to take two people. Oh, and I hate wrestling full sheets of plywood. Especially on a job site saw. Nicer to set two on a table, clamp them, and move a track.
> 
> Did I mention no dust?


Not pressure treated


skillman said:


> Cant you buy furring bundles at your local yard .


----------



## Morning Wood

The parallel guides would work, but to be honest they kind of suck. They are a burden to use. I think I read that Incra or woodpecker has some guides that are very similar but are much easier to use. The festool ones have to contact the end of the ripped pieces. So setting it can be a pain. The other ones just sit on top of the pieces. Ripping something that skinny though, you might be stuck with the festool ones.


----------



## Morning Wood

The parallel guides would work, but to be honest they kind of suck. They are a burden to use. I think I read that Incra or woodpecker has some guides that are very similar but are much easier to use. The festool ones have to contact the end of the ripped pieces. So setting it can be a pain. The other ones just sit on top of the pieces. Ripping something that skinny though, you might be stuck with the festool ones.


----------



## tjbnwi

I set the rail with a tri-square or adjustable drywall squares.

This is a rail setting jig I made for kitchen cabinet sides, it can be used for base and uppers.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

These are the LR-32 gauges I use to set the rail.

Tom


----------



## brhokel606

I am now a offical Festool owner! I hope the trend doesn't continue, they do not give those tools away!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Welcome to the club of no return


----------



## aaron_a

brhokel606 said:


> I am now a offical Festool owner! I hope the trend doesn't continue, they do not give those tools away!


It will...

Depends on what you do I guess. I do mostly carpentry work, a lot of it indoors.


I bought the ts55, then I bought a ct, then I bought a couple sanders and the jig saw. Having those few nearly dustless tools makes me want to go whole hog and get a lot more.


----------



## brhokel606

I have been really considering the Kapex, was disappointed with my Dewalt slider on fine finish work when doing 11" wide material at 45 degrees, the deflection is ridiculous. 

Looked at the CT too, dang, way expensive!


----------



## Pitto

sit on FOG and see what comes up in the classifieds section, you may get lucky.

i just picked up a CT33 for $85 on ebay, it may be trashed, but i figure for $85.00 it was worth a gamble.

Just dropped another $450 on more systainers and a CT hose Garage for the CT33


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

brhokel606 said:


> I have been really considering the Kapex, was disappointed with my Dewalt slider on fine finish work when doing 11" wide material at 45 degrees, the deflection is ridiculous. Looked at the CT too, dang, way expensive!


We will hopefully have one by the end of the year. Including another CT, stand, and extensions it's well north of 2k. We use it a lot though with doing at least 80% interior remodeling.


----------



## MDjim

brhokel606 said:


> I have been really considering the Kapex, was disappointed with my Dewalt slider on fine finish work when doing 11" wide material at 45 degrees, the deflection is ridiculous.
> 
> Looked at the CT too, dang, way expensive!


I've had a kapex for about a year and a half. I've never regretted the purchase. I do regret not acting on the 40% off sale on the recon tools yesterday though. I was thinking of grabbing the carvex, then I looked after work and almost everything was gone.


----------



## aaron_a

MDjim said:


> I've had a kapex for about a year and a half. I've never regretted the purchase. I do regret not acting on the 40% off sale on the recon tools yesterday though. I was thinking of grabbing the carvex, then I looked after work and almost everything was gone.


Even at full price the carvex is totally worth it. Bought mine a month or so ago, and it's been great.

I bought a bosch slider a year ago, and now I'm kicking myself. I wish I would have spent a bit more and bought the kapex. The bosch was over 800. It's a good saw, but the weight and dust collection are pretty tough to deal with.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

What's the longest blade for the carvex?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I think 4 1/2" depth of cut, maybe 4" so 5 or 5 1/2"


----------



## StrongTower

aaron_a said:


> Even at full price the carvex is totally worth it. Bought mine a month or so ago, and it's been great. I bought a bosch slider a year ago, and now I'm kicking myself. I wish I would have spent a bit more and bought the kapex. The bosch was over 800. It's a good saw, but the weight and dust collection are pretty tough to deal with.


The dust collection on the Kapex is good, I was hoping it was going to be way better than my Dewalts but it's just a smidgen better. The accuracy on the other hand... 👍 For me, it couldn't be my only saw, but it is the best I've ever had. I'm still getting used to it 15 days in....


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I think 4 1/2" depth of cut, maybe 4" so 5 or 5 1/2"


Are there other brands that are longer that will cut corbels about 8" thick. I seen them test videos of the maffel cutting with a long blade but what length was that?


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> What's the longest blade for the carvex?


Bosch makes 6" blades


----------



## aaron_a

StrongTower said:


> The dust collection on the Kapex is good, I was hoping it was going to be way better than my Dewalts but it's just a smidgen better. The accuracy on the other hand... 👍 For me, it couldn't be my only saw, but it is the best I've ever had. I'm still getting used to it 15 days in....


Glad you're enjoying it! 

I have a dewalt 10" chop that does really well when hooked up to my ct, but the bosch is just messy. At least it's pretty accurate and easy to use... 

How is the deflection on the kapex? I've only put my hands on one once, and it seemed rock solid at full extension.


----------



## StrongTower

aaron_a said:


> Glad you're enjoying it! I have a dewalt 10" chop that does really well when hooked up to my ct, but the bosch is just messy. At least it's pretty accurate and easy to use... How is the deflection on the kapex? I've only put my hands on one once, and it seemed rock solid at full extension.


Zero deflection, you can move it at full extension, if you're tugging pretty good. I've never seen an arbor that runs so true.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Morning Wood said:


> The parallel guides would work, but to be honest they kind of suck. They are a burden to use. I think I read that Incra or woodpecker has some guides that are very similar but are much easier to use. The festool ones have to contact the end of the ripped pieces. So setting it can be a pain. The other ones just sit on top of the pieces. Ripping something that skinny though, you might be stuck with the festool ones.



these are much better
http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/parallel-guide-system-for-incra-t-track-plus


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

aaron_a said:


> Glad you're enjoying it!
> 
> I have a dewalt 10" chop that does really well when hooked up to my ct, but the bosch is just messy. At least it's pretty accurate and easy to use...
> 
> How is the deflection on the kapex? I've only put my hands on one once, and it seemed rock solid at full extension.




cause it is....rock solid


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> These are the LR-32 gauges I use to set the rail.
> 
> Tom




i sold mine off to a festie freek. i can't stand those things.
have these http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/parallel-guide-system-for-incra-t-track-plus


----------



## MDjim

StrongTower said:


> Zero deflection, you can move it at full extension, if you're tugging pretty good. I've never seen an arbor that runs so true.


Yep, none. Coming from my old hitachi 12in it was awesome. Lol we do general remodeling so I don't get to use it everyday, but its a pleasure when I do. I think I hold the record for nicest miter saw used on crappiest projects though. Lol


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Reclaimed crap lumber?


I'm not scared of reclaimed lumber. If it's what's going to be his business it's probably a good idea to have a system in place to prevent as much damage as possible. Sounds to me like he's already prepared for that. There's a lot of very good businesses out there that make big money using reclaimed lumber and I'll bet my left nut they aren't using crap equipment.


----------



## Calidecks

Have you considered a metal detector City? Not that it's 100% but it might help. 

http://www.detectmetal.com/index.htm


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> I'm not scared of reclaimed lumber. If it's what's going to be his business it's probably a good idea to have a system in place to prevent as much damage as possible. Sounds to me like he's already prepared for that. There's a lot of very good businesses out there that make big money using reclaimed lumber and I'll bet my left nut they aren't using crap equipment.


left nut....lol that's a riot.. :laughing::laughing::laughing:


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> left nut....lol that's a riot.. :laughing::laughing::laughing:


And I'm left nutted!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> I'm not scared of reclaimed lumber. If it's what's going to be his business it's probably a good idea to have a system in place to prevent as much damage as possible. Sounds to me like he's already prepared for that. There's a lot of very good businesses out there that make big money using reclaimed lumber and I'll bet my left nut they aren't using crap equipment.


It's not the nails. It's the ground in dirt, sand, stones, and general junk that comes with it. Nails are the easy part. 

I am good friends with a guy that has been making reclaimed wide plank flooring for 30 years. 

To make a living at it he has spent millions on machines with Newman spiral heads. A 500k matcher can take the abuse that a lesser machine can't. 

You either buy cheap stuff to destroy and throw away or spend millions. 

The stuff in between is not worth the abuse and trying to ruin it.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Have you considered a metal detector City? Not that it's 100% but it might help.
> 
> http://www.detectmetal.com/index.htm


never used one but have used magnets. I do like the idea. At the end of the day I don't think I have ever gotten em all out. At some point you have to draw the line and get that puppy cut. So it boils down to the cost of doing business. I like the machine minimax usa link. The blade change system is super fast and easy. 
I would also p/u the 12" milwaukee slider. Best dam saw out there. dc is actually better then the K w/ vac of course. It would never leave the shop at 70lbs. You as being a weight freek like me would totally appreciate. :thumbsup:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Insert heads for junk lumber, only way to go.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's not the nails. It's the ground in dirt, sand, stones, and general junk that comes with it. Nails are the easy part.
> 
> I am good friends with a guy that has been making reclaimed wide plank flooring for 30 years.
> 
> To make a living at it he has spent millions on machines with Newman spiral heads. A 500k matcher can take the abuse that a lesser machine can't.
> 
> You either buy cheap stuff to destroy and throw away or spend millions.
> 
> The stuff in between is not worth the abuse and trying to ruin it.


I found that after the nails are out you sand down the dirty ones before they hit the saws. That's how I did it before. Now keep in mind I'm not burning nor do I think I'll ever burn as much as your buddy does. Just looking to get my head around what would be needed and will gladly p/u used equipment like I had before. I just don't remember the spec of what I had before because I just bought it from a wood shop school that up graded all of there equipment. I bought it blindly and sold it off after I down sized when the market tanked.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Insert heads for junk lumber, only way to go.


What do you mean by insert? Bury them?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

CITY DECKS INC said:


> What do you by insert? Bury them?


Like a byrd shelix or similar. Straight knives will not last long with all the filth on the lumber.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Like a byrd shelix or similar. Straight knives will not last long with all the filth on the lumber.


Got it.. now were getting somewhere. :thumbsup:


----------



## duburban

With all the love you put into those old machines I can't imagine touching them with anything but the finest. Those 4 sided cutters on the byrd/shelix heads is a good solution. Would you recommend one on a joiner/planer with non-reclaimed lumber?


----------



## TimelessQuality

Just curious.. If you won't process old timber, what's the point of a 36" planer?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

this wood scrubber would work better then belt sander. 
Makita 9741


----------



## rrk

A company that I do business with power washes first then sends it through a sanding brush/wire brush machine, then horizontal bandsaw then planer. If you want it rough cut no planer and changing speed of bandsaw feed changes texture of wood.

They resawed some 6/4 cedar for me which I needed to match existing texture, by changing speed they matched perfectly.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

rrk said:


> A company that I do business with power washes first then sends it through a sanding brush/wire brush machine, then horizontal bandsaw then planer. If you want it rough cut no planer and changing speed of bandsaw feed changes texture of wood.
> 
> They resawed some 6/4 cedar for me which I needed to match existing texture, by changing speed they matched perfectly.



thought about a power washing. Just makes a lil challenging in the city with lack of lot or yard. the more I think about it the more I like it and could probably make it work. It really is the most economical to clean power wash. No dust, no clean up, no sand paper or vac's and bags etc. Just blast it and rack it. . Thanks for the tip. What's the company called?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

duburban said:


> With all the love you put into those old machines I can't imagine touching them with anything but the finest. Those 4 sided cutters on the byrd/shelix heads is a good solution. Would you recommend one on a joiner/planer with non-reclaimed lumber?


I think there are better heads out there then the byrd, but I think they make more sense in a planer then a jointer. 



TimelessQuality said:


> Just curious.. If you won't process old timber, what's the point of a 36" planer?


Panels, glue ups, running five 6" wide boards through at the same time, production.
I wouldnt mind steping up to a 30" planer from my 24". I am almost maxed out with my 30" jointer. 

If you think whats the point of a big planer, then whats the point of a 52" wide belt sander?


----------



## TimelessQuality

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I think there are better heads out there then the byrd, but I think they make more sense in a planer then a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Panels, glue ups, running five 6" wide boards through at the same time, production.
> I wouldnt mind steping up to a 30" planer from my 24". I am almost maxed out with my 30" jointer.
> 
> If you think whats the point of a big planer, then whats the point of a 52" wide belt sander?


Jointer... I meant to ask about a wide jointer. Isn't it to flatten the face of a board before the planer?

I get the the wide belt/planer thing


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

TimelessQuality said:


> Jointer... I meant to ask about a wide jointer. Isn't it to flatten the face of a board before the planer?
> 
> I get the the wide belt/planer thing


Again, panels, table tops, glue ups, cleaning up a bent lamination, I do come across 20" wide+ lumber quite often. I would rather get it flat in one piece before I cut it up.

Knives last forever in a wide machine when you move the fence back and forth.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> Tom is my go to dealer. Website or phone call. Let Tom know Tom gave you his contact info. I get my orders within 3 days.
> 
> http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/
> 
> 512-428-9140
> 
> Tom





WarnerConstInc. said:


> I usually call Bob to order my stuff. I get them the next day if ordered before 2pm.
> 
> Bob rocks.





CITY DECKS INC said:


> Bob is the man. next day maybe a 2nd depending on what time I place it. 1/2 the time I'll call him from a rooftop or place via. no huss no fuss ever. even with returns free s/h both ways.


Placed my first order Saturday - just through the website. Believe me I want this to go well :thumbsup:


----------



## duburban

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Placed my first order Saturday - just through the website. Believe me I want this to go well :thumbsup:


So whats in the mail?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I made a few calls today and after de-nailing I can get all the timbers cut on a tree mill machine. My buddy's got one and didn't even know about it. He said picked up about a year ago his farther uses a lot. He's also on 10acres in the sticks so no restrictions. Cutting capacity 32" w x 32" h by 32ft long. diesel can cut anything with in an 1/8 and straight. did the math on he wanted to run it and his time and it added up to $1.56 lf. I just drop it off and pick it next week. Chit that's cheep. The dirt grim or whatever will not effect this beast. Then we can start the fun stuff with clean trued up timber...


----------



## overanalyze

Like new!


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

duburban said:


> So whats in the mail?


Just a 9 drawer sortainer and a few misc. items. We will probably be spending some $ late in the year – better to give it to Bob and Festool – rather than the IRS. :whistling


----------



## duburban

I'd like a strainer to ride under my T18 systainer. I'm trying to decide which one. I have a 12 drawer that houses all my finish nails. A 4 drawer may accept hole saws, foresters, or a drill index case… 

anyone do this?


----------



## Rich D.

A 6 drawer houses all my finish nails and staples. And I use my 12 drawer for misc fastners assortments ..

Anyone order any of the new festools?

That oscillating tool looks nice


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The vecturo is quite powerful and lots of blade choices.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Rich D. said:


> A 6 drawer houses all my finish nails and staples. And I use my 12 drawer for misc fastners assortments .. Anyone order any of the new festools? That oscillating tool looks nice


I got my eye in that too. I have a mate who loves festool and just bought the supercut. I told him he should have bought the festool one and he went silent on the phone for about 30seconds then said "what". I could tell he was pissed lol.


----------



## parkside

I just got the new fein 2 months ago, guess I'll have to justify having two multi tools. Did festool do any strobe lights on the multi tool? Wish they had a light that my batteries from the cxs use. O well guess I need to justify another drill so I can by the flashlights.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's not the same as the regular small multi master. It is just about like the super cut. 

No lights. Plunge base, couple different guides, stops and shoes.


----------



## parkside

I really like the lights on my carvex and was really hoping to see the put lights on the multi tool. I just upgraded to the 350 fein from the 250 I had stolen. Never heard of the supercut. How's the festool version stack up to the fein 350?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I hate the lights on the carvex. I had to turn them off before I destroyed it.


----------



## parkside

Which is great that they made them switchable, that way everyone would be happy. It seems that every time I go to use the multitool it is somewhere dark or dim and I hate dragging a flashlight around. 
Anybody order the apron with mini systainer yet?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It was the strobes that drove me up the wall. 

The apron is on it's second time around. It was offered a couple years ago.


----------



## Rich D.

I was using my Bosch multi x today to cut some schluter edge profiling and it was having a hard time I felt. I think it's time for an upgrade. I was going to get the supercut but now seeing the new Festool multi tool it may be a option.

How does Festool compare to the supercut? 

And how's that apron for trim?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's pretty much the same tool, with some extras the super cut does not have.

I cut right through a formica counter top with the biggest blade they have, powered right through it. 

I am looking forward to trying the blades for sash reglazing and repair. 

The apron is better suited to shop work.

http://www.festoolproducts.com/Festool-OS-400-Vecturo-p/563007.htm


----------



## Calidecks

Rich D. said:


> I was using my Bosch multi x today to cut some schluter edge profiling and it was having a hard time I felt. I think it's time for an upgrade. I was going to get the supercut but now seeing the new Festool multi tool it may be a option.
> 
> How does Festool compare to the supercut?
> 
> And how's that apron for trim?


Nothing like a 700 dollar multi tool. :laughing:


----------



## overanalyze

I was shocked and pleasantly surprised when I saw the pricing for the Festool supercut. $425 isnt bad for a Supercut caliber tool...$575 with all accessories seemed ok too. My multimaster is doing fine but if it dies this one will get a hard look.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> I was shocked and pleasantly surprised when I saw the pricing for the Festool supercut. $425 isnt bad for a Supercut caliber tool...$575 with all accessories seemed ok too. My multimaster is doing fine but if it dies this one will get a hard look.


I think my Dad will be shocked... but probably not pleasantly surprised when I tell him I want that tool. :laughing: It does look like one sweet tool though.


----------



## duburban

overanalyze said:


> I was shocked and pleasantly surprised when I saw the pricing for the Festool supercut. $425 isnt bad for a Supercut caliber tool...$575 with all accessories seemed ok too. My multimaster is doing fine but if it dies this one will get a hard look.


I agree, I was expecting 800 or so


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

The sys2 by itself is $70, the Positioning Aid & Depth Stop set is $165. That puts the saw itself plus blades down to $340. Nice price if you ask me.


----------



## Calidecks

So are they available?


----------



## BBuild

Californiadecks said:


> So are they available?


No not yet. It will be available on December 1st along a few other new accessories.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Placed an ordered Saturday from Bob… Order confirmed and shipped on Monday… Received on Thursday (today). I’m pretty happy with that turnaround. 

If I had ordered through my local guy, I’d still have another week of waiting.


----------



## overanalyze

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Placed an ordered Saturday from Bob&#133; Order confirmed and shipped on Monday&#133; Received on Thursday (today). I&#146;m pretty happy with that turnaround.
> 
> If I had ordered through my local guy, I&#146;d still have another week of waiting.


Oh come on man...what'd you get?


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Just a 9 drawer sortainer and a few misc. items. We will probably be spending some $ late in the year – better to give it to Bob and Festool – rather than the IRS. :whistling





overanalyze said:


> Oh come on man...what'd you get?


I'm gonna go out on limb here and guess a 9 drawer Stortainer.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Hmmmmmm


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Hmmmmmm


My dealer won't let me have anything early anymore.


----------



## tjbnwi

Darcy, what is to the left of the CT Wing?

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I give... What are they?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

A few months ago I bought the AC 36 and was bitchin about how big it. I've put over 1000hrs on it and could not be more pleased. I have the midi and the ac36. All of sudden we have all this interior work with 2-6sheets of drywall, interior / exterior tuck pointing and now a small marble foyer to polish. we use it so much I can't imagine not having another one. And yes it has stronger suck the hepa vac's and no I have had the two side by side to swap hepa for non hepa to see if the midi can suck the same volume.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

.. cant get to upload


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> Darcy, what is to the left of the CT Wing?
> 
> Tom


It's a toolie. See how long the straight tip screwdriver lasts this go round.

Going to try out the ct wing tomorrow on a cedar siding repair job.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I give... What are they?


The far left is the Festool flashlight, next to it is the Protool flashlight, I think the packaged item is the Toolie (not sure on this), far right is the CT Wing.

Tom

I see Darcy answered my question, it is the Toolie.


----------



## jlsconstruction

CITY DECKS INC said:


> A few months ago I bought the AC 36 and was bitchin about how big it. I've put over 1000hrs on it and could not be more pleased. I have the midi and the ac36. All of sudden we have all this interior work with 2-6sheets of drywall, interior / exterior tuck pointing and now a small marble foyer to polish. we use it so much I can't imagine not having another one. And yes it has stronger suck the hepa vac's and no I have had the two side by side to swap hepa for non hepa to see if the midi can suck the same volume.



I have both of them to, ac 36 is awesome


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> My dealer won't let me have anything early anymore.


I don't have a local dealer. 




DaVinciRemodel said:


> I give... What are they?


One new festool flashlight, the old protool version, a toolie and a ct wing.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's a toolie. See how long the straight tip screwdriver lasts this go round.
> 
> Going to try out the ct wing tomorrow on a cedar siding repair job.


Never had one, I take it there was a problem with the common screw driver?

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> A few months ago I bought the AC 36 and was bitchin about how big it. I've put over 1000hrs on it and could not be more pleased. I have the midi and the ac36. All of sudden we have all this interior work with 2-6sheets of drywall, interior / exterior tuck pointing and now a small marble foyer to polish. we use it so much I can't imagine not having another one. And yes it has stronger suck the hepa vac's and no I have had the two side by side to swap hepa for non hepa to see if the midi can suck the same volume.


So are you saying the 36 sucks better then the midi even without the hepa on the midi? 
I'm wondering if I can get better results with composite shavings on my Kapex, hooked up to the 36 vs. the midi


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> Never had one, I take it there was a problem with the common screw driver?
> 
> Tom


Everyone I had, had a broken tip, all the ones at festool hq had broken tips too.:laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Everyone I had, had a broken tip, all the ones at festool hq had broken tips too.:laughing:


I was considering one. Is it worth owning?

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Best hold down clamp ever put on a miter saw.


----------



## overanalyze

Congrats Travis!! It is a great saw. The clamp is a good accessory. You will like the larger and shorter hose for dust collection. Man your dad spoiled you this year..lol ;-)


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> How often do you guys use the hold down clamp? I can't wait to be able to use it to clamp a board as a stop for repeated short cuts.


Have you figured out how to remove the clamp from the saw base yet?

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> Congrats Travis!! It is a great saw. The clamp is a good accessory. You will like the larger and shorter hose for dust collection. Man your dad spoiled you this year..lol ;-)


Thanks. And yes he did. Lol. He's a good dad.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Have you figured out how to remove the clamp from the saw base yet? Tom


Contrary to what you think from all the stupid questions I ask you, I'm not dumb. Lol. So yes.


----------



## Calidecks

Travis you say Bob Marino is sending you a shorter hose? Didn't know they sold them. Do you more info on that?


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Got this guy today. Literally looks brand new. I love this reconditioned sale


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> Travis you say Bob Marino is sending you a shorter hose? Didn't know they sold them. Do you more info on that?


Well, I get the impression he is cutting up a personal hose maybe... Said he had to get it back from a friend and would ship tomorrow. I guess I spent 3k with him, he's willing to cut a hose up.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Got this guy today. Literally looks brand new. I love this reconditioned sale


I got one too. Looks brand new minus one scuff.


----------



## skillman

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Got this guy today. Literally looks brand new. I love this reconditioned sale


 That's my RAS you got there . Just a bit to late to order and bam its off the list .


----------



## Tylerwalker32

skillman said:


> That's my RAS you got there . Just a bit to late to order and bam its off the list .


 I kept missing it to. I saw it come up and I call my supplier immediately I was able to snag one.


----------



## skillman

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I kept missing it to. I saw it come up and I call my supplier immediately I was able to snag one.


 Glad you got a good deal . So do you when the last date of recon is .


----------



## tjbnwi

From the first post in this FOG thread, I'd say the sale ends 11/14.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...recon-tools-the-finl-strech-40-off-all-tools/

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Just did a 5 cut test with the Kapex. I'm 3 thou off in 10". That's pretty freakin sweet...


----------



## CarpenterSFO

I feel like a crack dealer. I've been working on finishing out a retail store, working with another finish carpenter. It's all paneling, cut to fit closely, mitered on corners, built-up bench seats, extension jambs. Track saw and domino territory. I think the other guy's wondering about buying his wife a track saw for her birthday.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

skillman said:


> Oh boy so what's your green line up now .


Here's pictures as promised.


----------



## Rich D.

There not many tools left on the recon list. I guess it's winding down.

I should of purchased a few things when they were all listed on the first few days.

Looking for possibly a ro and a ras.. I guess I'll wait till next recon sale!

What was the best time new tools popped up?


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Rich D. said:


> There not many tools left on the recon list. I guess it's winding down. I should of purchased a few things when they were all listed on the first few days. Looking for possibly a ro and a ras.. I guess I'll wait till next recon sale! What was the best time new tools popped up?


 noon to 130.


----------



## J L

duburban said:


> I'd like a strainer to ride under my T18 systainer. I'm trying to decide which one. I have a 12 drawer that houses all my finish nails. A 4 drawer may accept hole saws, foresters, or a drill index case…
> 
> anyone do this?


Yup.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> How often do you guys use the hold down clamp? I can't wait to be able to use it to clamp a board as a stop for repeated short cuts.


excellent. Use it more then I would of ever imagined.


----------



## overanalyze

Used our new Planex for the first time today. Wow...that thing is an animal. When you flip the suction lever on the head you can darn near hang from the thing! I was struggling a bit to keep it from gouging. The rear spring on the brush ring seems way more tight than the others. It seems like it makes it easier for the head to be at a slight angle. Any technique tips from planex users?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

overanalyze said:


> Used our new Planex for the first time today. Wow...that thing is an animal. When you flip the suction lever on the head you can darn near hang from the thing! I was struggling a bit to keep it from gouging. The rear spring on the brush ring seems way more tight than the others. It seems like it makes it easier for the head to be at a slight angle. Any technique tips from planex users?


It def take a little while to get used to and figuring out the best settings for suction. The S interface pad is a good upgrade too. Makes sanding bumpy walls way easier and gouges way less. Also the blast gate is a great upgrade to the AC vac if you have that.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> I've never used my clamp. Maybe I should start.


I use it mostly for those lil cut that K likes to spit out at you. I do want to make a set of backing wings Maybe mahogany would last along with zero clearance insert. My opening is jam packed with so much ipe I can't even scrape it out. 
I do find when I have a backing on the lil stuff does not fly out. 

Also need to add extended tracks which I have but never got around to it. 

Like this: http://www.multiblades.com/kapexsawhelperbracket.html 

Also need to re-due my truck shelves to fit all the extra festi boxes. 
Maybe when / if it snows.


----------



## overanalyze

No ac vac yet. It did amazingly well hooked to my older shop vac with a hepa filter and drywal bag.

The "s" pad is the softer one yes? 

I think part of my problem was this was an older home with plaster ceilings. They were smooth but not flat. I was sanding large patches and I think the irregular surface was causing some of my issues. I didn't have any gouging on the walls.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

overanalyze said:


> No ac vac yet. It did amazingly well hooked to my older shop vac with a hepa filter and drywal bag. The "s" pad is the softer one yes? I think part of my problem was this was an older home with plaster ceilings. They were smooth but not flat. I was sanding large patches and I think the irregular surface was causing some of my issues. I didn't have any gouging on the walls.


Yep it's softer but you need both parts. The s pad is thinner so when you add the interface pad you still have the correct final height for dust extraction. It really helps on non flat walls which around here is very common.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Anyone use thier Kapex for framing blocks and what not? If you do this blade is perfect for wet PT. I had Leitz bore it to fit the Kapex. It's a 40 Freud Fusion.



Me Me Me.... I had a bunch old but still good 10" Blades that I had bored for about 9bucks each, I think I use 24,36, 40 tooth. which ever one is not dull. 

I went through 3-K's thinking it was piece or crap when all along it was the grime from the pt that dulled the blade and the hipper sensitive censers were powering down the motor.


----------



## overanalyze

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Me Me Me.... I had a bunch old but still good 10" Blades that I had bored for about 9bucks each, I think I use 24,36, 40 tooth. which ever one is not dull.
> 
> I went through 3-K's thinking it was piece or crap when all along it was the grime from the pt that dulled the blade and the hipper sensitive censers were powering down the motor.


Is a regular 10" tall enough to cut all the way through the material?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Looks like the middle finger


it is.......


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

overanalyze said:


> Is a regular 10" tall enough to cut all the way through the material?


all day baby.... even 4x4's I do have a festi blades the finish, alumin, and crown. 80% is on the standard 10"


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Me Me Me.... I had a bunch old but still good 10" Blades that I had bored for about 9bucks each, I think I use 24,36, 40 tooth. which ever one is not dull.
> 
> I went through 3-K's thinking it was piece or crap when all along it was the grime from the pt that dulled the blade and the hipper sensitive censers were powering down the motor.


jeez your chit is clean....I have ipe staines into the table. I can barley see the laser there so much gunk jammed up there. I think I'll have it serviced over xmas. Send back for an overhaul and cleaning.


----------



## brhokel606

Californiadecks said:


> Yes, if you'll notice in the pic I adjust the saw in the bevel position to transport.


I store my Dewalt slider in the same bevel position, doesn't bounce around and also makes it skinner to store in trailer.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> jeez your chit is clean....I have ipe staines into the table. I can barley see the laser there so much gunk jammed up there. I think I'll have it serviced over xmas. Send back for an overhaul and cleaning.


What's the charge for the overhaul?


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Used our new Planex for the first time today. Wow...that thing is an animal. When you flip the suction lever on the head you can darn near hang from the thing! I was struggling a bit to keep it from gouging. The rear spring on the brush ring seems way more tight than the others. It seems like it makes it easier for the head to be at a slight angle. Any technique tips from planex users?


There is a learning curve.

Make a spacer that holds the head vacuum setting in the mid position.

Keep playing with pad speed and suction setting. You'll get it.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> What's the charge for the overhaul?


I don't know. I think I still have the box and paperwork they sent me last year. You can check off if it's more they $75 dollars they will notify you. I do know it's hair out when I cut 4-miters and put them together. When I bought it it was perfect when I cut 4-miters. Come to think of it the housing has few cracks in it. I remember moving a 3x12 (old timber) across the shop and slammed the K with it. Almost knocked it over with the stand.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> Newb :laughing:


Hey I've only had a year. Give me time!!! Lol


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Total rebuild is around 225


----------



## duburban

total rebuild? 

if that means what i think it does, thats very impressive. 

that price means that any concern of motor breakdown are almost completely obsolete


----------



## overanalyze

tjbnwi said:


> There is a learning curve.
> 
> Make a spacer that holds the head vacuum setting in the mid position.
> 
> Keep playing with pad speed and suction setting. You'll get it.
> 
> Tom


Good tip! I kept thinking it would be nice to have a half way spot for that.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

duburban said:


> total rebuild?
> 
> if that means what i think it does, thats very impressive.
> 
> that price means that any concern of motor breakdown are almost completely obsolete


That includes a new armature.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> That includes a new armature.


I wonder what the turn around time to have that done is. Does it need to go to Indiana, or a local authorized repair facility? Also I can imaging shipping to be a boatload of duckets as well.


----------



## BBuild

Californiadecks said:


> I wonder what the turn around time to have that done is. Does it need to go to Indiana, or a local authorized repair facility? Also I can imaging shipping to be a boatload of duckets as well.


Yes, the only festool service center is in Indiana. They say most repairs will be complete within 48 hours of reception.


----------



## StrongTower

Californiadecks said:


> I wonder what the turn around time to have that done is. Does it need to go to Indiana, or a local authorized repair facility? Also I can imaging shipping to be a boatload of duckets as well.


Cali- when I sent my CT22 back it was around $40 in shipping from Idaho. That was to ship to them, the return ship was free. Vac was out of warranty.


----------



## Buildtech

Does anyone know if the new oscillating tool will take only Festool blades or will it accept Fein, Bosch, Imperial etc?

Thanks


----------



## Calidecks

Buildtech said:


> Does anyone know if the new oscillating tool will take only Festool blades or will it accept Fein, Bosch, Imperial etc?
> 
> Thanks


Fein, so if that's the case it should accept the adaptor as well.


----------



## Home wood

Planex/ ct36ac

Well the other day I learn a valuable lesson with my new toy.
CT36AC the AC stands for auto clean not never clean. I wondered how long it would go between cleanings. I will never wait that long again because when she's plugged it shuts down. It was far from dustless. I had never removed popcorn with it and had only sanded a bit of drywall. I was less than impressed with its popcorn removal. In fact I was ready to go back to the old water spray metheod.
Now fast forward to today. Clean machine and wow this thing removed 150sqf (yes a small job) in around 30 min or less with next to no dust.
This Saturday I have 5000sqf of drywall to sand. She's all cleaned out ready to rock.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

StrongTower said:


> Cali- when I sent my CT22 back it was around $40 in shipping from Idaho. That was to ship to them, the return ship was free. Vac was out of warranty.


They quoted me 40-5-bucks for the K


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> They quoted me 40-5-bucks for the K


Ups?


----------



## tjbnwi

Buildtech said:


> Does anyone know if the new oscillating tool will take only Festool blades or will it accept Fein, Bosch, Imperial etc?
> 
> Thanks


Super Cut blades will fit not the Multimaster blades.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Super Cut blades will fit not the Multimaster blades.
> 
> Tom


The most expensive.


----------



## overanalyze

Is there an adapter to allow MM blades to work on a super cut?


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Is there an adapter to allow MM blades to work on a super cut?


Yes, Fein makes one. 

Imperial also makes blades that fit the Super Cut they will also fit the Festool.


Tom


----------



## Johnny_5

TS55 and CTMidi should be here Monday! :clap:

In the meantime, put in my pre-order for the CT wings. Seems like an interesting/useful gadget, and for $45 I figure if I use it more than a couple times, it's paid for itself.

Been stuck on the festool sites the last few days, watching the videos and drooling over all the cool stuff. They all make so much sense! And the way they work together, and the dust extraction, and the gadgets, and the........

Only thing I'm not sold on yet is the cordless drill and impact lineup. Maybe I'd have to use one to be a convert, but they just don't wow me like the corded tools.

Going through the garage, van, shop today digging up old tools to sell so I can continue to feed this new love. :thumbup:

This is a horrible, horrible place.........


----------



## J L

Johnny_5 said:


> Only thing I'm not sold on yet is the cordless drill and impact lineup. Maybe I'd have to use one to be a convert, but they just don't wow me like the corded tools.


You can pry my T15 out of my cold dead hands. By far the nicest drill I've ever used.


----------



## donerightwyo

Maybe someday I will have time to take it out of the box:laughing:


----------



## mgb

BCConstruction said:


> Newb :laughing:


Maybe a dumb question, but I assume those are empty?

I'd be chitting my pants taking that photo. One gust of wind = alot of money.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

mgb said:


> Maybe a dumb question, but I assume those are empty?
> 
> I'd be chitting my pants taking that photo. One gust of wind = alot of money.



Nope full and it was well windy that day too. I was crapping it for a few mins whilst I stacked them up.


----------



## Roofcheck

Show off. Lets see some pics of your jobs- so many green tools... or are you jsut a collector?


----------



## JackP23

tjbnwi said:


> Yes, Fein makes one.
> 
> Imperial also makes blades that fit the Super Cut they will also fit the Festool.
> 
> 
> Tom



I don't think the Plunge attachment will line up with an adapter. Dang!

_________
Mike


----------



## Johnny_5

So, the TS55 and Midi showed up and I've had the chance to use them a few times now. Absolute gold. I love this thing! :thumbsup: I just need to build myself a jig to cut cabinet fillers. Ordered some of the sticky rubber strips from them, just going to build something simple to support the track and keep the filler from moving. 

Ive got the bug, a Kapex is currently on its way to me. No more cutting outside on these frigid winter days! :clap:


----------



## AustinDB

Californiadecks said:


> Yep, had custom sized best fences made as well


how long are your fences and how much was the set? 

Do you use the same UG cart?


----------



## aaron_a

Drive through washes have totally destroyed the clear coat on my truck.


----------



## overanalyze

Ordered an apron...I have been thinking it will be nice for shop work.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> Drive through washes have totally destroyed the clear coat on my truck.



The cleaners they use are very powerful. The ones on the touch less washes are like acid to your paint even worse than the normal washes. That was one reason I added the EXO V2 to my paint for protection through auto washers.


----------



## BBuild

Johnny_5 said:


> It's fine when its on 0-45. When the bevel selector is set to +/-45 or +/-47, the counterbalance doesn't catch it when it goes right. Meaning, I release the bevel lock and let go of the handle and the head drops 15-20* right. I guess not a huge deal, but if it's not normal I'd like to get it fixed. You'd think they would set up the counterbalance to compensate for the weight of the motor?
> 
> Can anyone else confirm if this is normal operation?


My saw does the same thing if it's not in the 0-45 setting. It stops right at 15 degrees like you mentioned. I always assumed it was from the weight of the motor and a service tech confirmed it when I called about other issues.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> Ordered an apron...I have been thinking it will be nice for shop work.


Mine just showed up this week, its actually pretty nice.


----------



## BBuild

I tried using my RO90 on a spare panel I had. The results weren't that bad but it just seems too jumpy and uncontrollable to use on a vehicle compared to my porter cable RO. The pad/polish combo I used was an orange and white lake county pads and menzerna power gloss and power finish.


----------



## BBuild

This was my only detail job of the summer


----------



## Johnny_5

BBuild said:


> This was my only detail job of the summer
> 
> View attachment 122082
> 
> 
> View attachment 122083


Damn!  That's some patience right there! :thumbsup:

No way could I sit still long enough to tape all that chit up. I hate the white haze from waxing, but I hate taping chit off more! 

Nice work though!


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> It's rare you will see anyone using rotary polishers on anything these days. My best mate details a lot of very high end cars. Mainly in the $200k-$500k range. These modern paints are extremely thin and soft and even under trained use its very easy to hit a hard edge and burn through in a blink of an eye. He's friends with a lot of people on Facebook all over the world who also detail high end stuff from pianos to jets and 95% of the are using the rupes. Only reason I been reading up about the is because I'm stripping my EXO v2 protectant this spring and I want to do some correction as I been lazy using the automated washes a few times this year and it's starting to show.


So is the evo v2 applied with the Rupes?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Nope EXO V2 just wipes on by hand. Very easy to apply but not cheap. Gtechniq make some nice paint protection. The 30ml bottle should do a mid size car easy. They do a panel wipe too which removes everything before application. They make silo seal which you can put on too after the EXO V2. Silo seal lasts a few weeks between washes. There's a lot of similar products on the market though but it's endless. Modesta is also another good protection. Crystal process is also meant to be very good and cheaper than gtechniq. Crystal serum is meant to be the very best and it's made by gtechniq but it's not available to retail sales. Even hard for high end dealers to get hold of it. But if you want easy to apply and good results zaino is good and cheap too. Won't give you the protection of look of these high end kits but they get you 90% there. Pinnacle and Wolfgang are also great products.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Nope EXO V2 just wipes on by hand. Very easy to apply but not cheap. Gtechniq make some nice paint protection. The 30ml bottle should do a mid size car easy. They do a panel wipe too which removes everything before application. They make silo seal which you can put on too after the EXO V2. Silo seal lasts a few weeks between washes. There's a lot of similar products on the market though but it's endless. Modesta is also another good protection. Crystal process is also meant to be very good and cheaper than gtechniq. Crystal serum is meant to be the very best and it's made by gtechniq but it's not available to retail sales. Even hard for high end dealers to get hold of it. But if you want easy to apply and good results zaino is good and cheap too. Won't give you the protection of look of these high end kits but they get you 90% there. Pinnacle and Wolfgang are also great products.


So you can't really screw up your car by applying it wrong?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> So you can't really screw up your car by applying it wrong?



If you follow the instruction on the EXO v2 and watch a couple of vids of the application you will be fine. The other products are very simple to apply. It last about 2 years though. It's very hydrophobic. But the barrier it makes on paint is very hard too. Just make sure you clay bar and strip anything from the current surface you can. Their panel wipe works well for this too. Clay bar can just be used with some car wash soap and water in a spray bottle. Get a foam lance too for either hose or pressure washer. Auto geek is a great site for all the bits.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Here's my truck after its first clean with the EXO V2 with no silo seal.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Here's my truck after its first clean with the EXO V2 with no silo seal.
> 
> View attachment 122120
> 
> View attachment 122121


Not really following. What's that pic below, is it the shine in your paint?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Top pic is the foam lance. Bottom pic is after washing a few days after I put the EXO V2 on. But with silo seal it looks even better and feel smooth. You will loose a bit of the hydrophobic properties putting anything like a wax or sealant over the EXO V2 but the EXO v2 will last way longer than the wax or sealant so the hydrophobic properties return after the other coatings where off. Read some about the EXO V2 on their site if you have not already. They go in to more detail.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Top pic is the foam lance. Bottom pic is after washing a few days after I put the EXO V2 on. But with silo seal it looks even better and feel smooth. You will loose a bit of the hydrophobic properties putting anything like a wax or sealant over the EXO V2 but the EXO v2 will last way longer than the wax or sealant so the hydrophobic properties return after the other coatings where off. Read some about the EXO V2 on their site if you have not already. They go in to more detail.


So does the foam Lance take off contaminates before the exo coat? And is it made by
The same company that makes exo v2?


----------



## Calidecks

I'm going to try that system on my new car.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

No the foam lance just helps on washes. The more foam when washing the better your protected from scratches as the foam helps keeps the dirt of the paint work when washing. Auto geek have there own branded lances and some other brands too. You can also find them on Amazon. Sign up to auto geek as they normally send out emails for 15% off with free shipping quite a few times a year.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Hey mike jump on this if you go grab your self any bits. Www.autogeek.net


----------



## BBuild

BCConstruction said:


> No the foam lance just helps on washes. The more foam when washing the better your protected from scratches as the foam helps keeps the dirt of the paint work when washing. Auto geek have there own branded lances and some other brands too. You can also find them on Amazon. Sign up to auto geek as they normally send out emails for 15% off with free shipping quite a few times a year.


What brand foam lance, soap, and pressure washer are you using? I have the Gilmore foam gun for my hose and use DP xtreme foam formula and the suds are nowhere near as clingy as your pic. I may have to step up to a lance and power washer setup.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

The pressure washer lance is way better. http://www.autogeek.net/pinnacle-foam-cannon-hp.html

They are all basically the same on auto geek but different stickers. I put about half inch of foam fluid in the bottom of bottle after I have filled it with warm water then shake it to mix it in. Then max the setting out for full foam. 

I also use the DP foam as it works well but I bought the 1 gallon about 5 years ago and it's only just run out. So I'm gonna be on AG today ordering some stuff.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Got my order in before it ended.


----------



## Johnny_5

Got the zero clearance insert, crown stop, stand mount and extension wings done today. It was a good weekend!

Still don't understand why these things (or any brand for that matter) don't come with a zero clearance insert. Seems a no brainer to me, just provide a blank plate that gets cut with the first use. Come on Festool! Otherwise, I love this saw!


----------



## overanalyze

Johnny_5 said:


> Got the zero clearance insert, crown stop, stand mount and extension wings done today. It was a good weekend!
> 
> Still don't understand why these things (or any brand for that matter) don't come with a zero clearance insert. Seems a no brainer to me, just provide a blank plate that gets cut with the first use. Come on Festool! Otherwise, I love this saw!


Looks fantastic!


----------



## Roofcheck

Maybe because the saw bevels. That will ruin your plan. Nice Audi in the background.


----------



## jlsconstruction

Roofcheck said:


> Maybe because the saw bevels. That will ruin your plan. Nice Audi in the background.



Only if you bevel it. 

The only reason I have a duel bevel is so the motor is in the back so I can cut 6" stuff standing up


----------



## Roofcheck

jlsconstruction said:


> Only if you bevel it.
> 
> The only reason I have a duel bevel is so the motor is in the back so I can cut 6" stuff standing up


Hmm.


----------



## tjbnwi

Try theses. 

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=51659&idcategory=3

Betterly makes an insert for the Kapex. 

http://www.festoolproducts.com/Betterley-Zero-Clearance-Insert-for-Kapex-Miter-Sa-p/fki101.htm

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Try theses.
> 
> http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=51659&idcategory=3
> 
> Betterly makes an insert for the Kapex.
> 
> http://www.festoolproducts.com/Betterley-Zero-Clearance-Insert-for-Kapex-Miter-Sa-p/fki101.htm
> 
> Tom


I have the betterly, it works great.


----------



## Johnny_5

tjbnwi said:


> Try theses.
> 
> http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=51659&idcategory=3
> 
> Betterly makes an insert for the Kapex.
> 
> http://www.festoolproducts.com/Betterley-Zero-Clearance-Insert-for-Kapex-Miter-Sa-p/fki101.htm
> 
> Tom


Good to know there are some aftermarket ones out there. Made mine from 1/4" Mdf with a washer underneath each screw to space it up to the .3" thickness of the stock plate.

Point is, for $1400 they should really just throw a couple in the box. The stock throat inserts are a joke.

At the very least, sell us some green ones! Lol


----------



## overanalyze

I read somewhere the phenolic (spelling?) material the Betterly is made from is hard on blades...no idea if this is true. I made a stack once I got my planer dialed in. I used some scrap cherry I had laying around.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I destroyed my betterly one after 2 days. Cut schulter profile with the saw and blade deflected because I was doing a stupid cut and took loads of material out of the insert.


----------



## BBuild

That fastcap tape seem really neat. Anyone ever use it? It would have to fairly thick to be rigid enough to work well but still not protrude above the table.


----------



## Bjackson3

I made a zero clearance for my Kapex, then ran a shallow dado throughout the middle the width of the black strip that goes on the edge of the track saw track. That way I can replace when needed. Works great, sometimes just need a little spray adhesive on the back.


----------



## Calidecks

It'll hold 100 kilo's


----------



## Calidecks




----------



## tjbnwi

My Sys Roll arrived last Friday. The back of the green drawer latch was broken off. Sent Tom a pic, said he had never seen that before. 

I like that it spins within its own footprint. 

Tom


----------



## Roofcheck

Californiadecks said:


>


Car looks sweet- new rims you mentioned?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> My Sys Roll arrived last Friday. The back of the green drawer latch was broken off. Sent Tom a pic, said he had never seen that before.
> 
> I like that it spins within its own footprint.
> 
> Tom


I just end up riding mine around like a scooter in the shop. 

I don't like stacking and unstacking the load. I don't want to load it up on its back either, then I never remember or have room to toss it in at the the end.

I have used it to wheel some heavy motors across the shop. Great for that.:laughing:

Didn't they make a rolling stool/seat/tool bench thingy? Sounds handy, getting off the floor takes too much effort now.


----------



## tjbnwi

I got mine for the hotel job. Between this and the Sys Cart it should make pack in/pack out easier. 

The Multi Function Bench I believe. Wait until you get to be my age. 

Tom


----------



## duburban

Go find the DIY rail guides thread on FOG. That looks like the way to go. I'll be making a few sets soon.


----------



## overanalyze

duburban said:


> Go find the DIY rail guides thread on FOG. That looks like the way to go. I'll be making a few sets soon.


That's what I did. They work great and there is no risk off putting a dimple in my tracks.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Has anyone gotten the CT Wings yet?

Saw them on thisiscarpentry...........wondering if they have enough holding power.


----------



## country_huck

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Has anyone gotten the CT Wings yet?
> 
> 
> 
> Saw them on thisiscarpentry...........wondering if they have enough holding power.



I'm a little skeptical on how well they will hold, but if they work I can definitely see getting a some. 

Being its Festool they probably work just as advertised!!!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

They work, have not seen how much they will hold though.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

I think I read something like 6 lbs. 

Maybe it was kilo's......

If so.....12' crown for sure....16' risky.

Can we get them yet? 

Wonder if they will work on a Midi too? Same suction.....


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

No idea on the capacity, have not stuck mine to the wall yet. 

They work with any vac, don't use the auto clean setting on the ac36 though.


----------



## duburban

Theres a dude that made DIY wings. He used them to pick large pavers off the ground, 12x12s or bigger. I think there is some serious power there and he had multiple blocks setup for different sizes etc…


----------



## BBuild

duburban said:


> Theres a dude that made DIY wings. He used them to pick large pavers off the ground, 12x12s or bigger. I think there is some serious power there and he had multiple blocks setup for different sizes etc…


I believe that guy was told using his diy wings would void his vac's warranty.


----------



## BBuild

Small shipment just in from Bob Marino


----------



## BBuild




----------



## Calidecks

BBuild said:


> View attachment 122434
> 
> 
> View attachment 122435


There are times I can't even pick up a yellow stabila level because it's so hot from the sun. I can only imagine what that black level is like.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

BBuild said:


> View attachment 122434
> 
> 
> View attachment 122435


that's impressive


----------



## duburban

BBuild said:


> I believe that guy was told using his diy wings would void his vac's warranty.


because… they just came out with their version? thats so BS. 

side note: I'm really sick of people praising the Vecturo as if its some new tool.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

duburban said:


> because… they just came out with their version? thats so BS.
> 
> 
> 
> side note: I'm really sick of people praising the Vecturo as if its some new tool.



Has anyone on here bought it? Even my fanboy ass ain't yet. Now if it would have had dust extraction then that would have def been on my Christmas list. It just don't offer anything my current Fein can do. It's not like it's a precision cutting tool either. Maybe if my Fein dies one day or there's a specific reason I need one of the attachments then I may jump on it. I think they are just way too late to the OT game. Just like they were with the impact.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> There are times I can't even pick up a yellow stabila level because it's so hot from the sun. I can only imagine what that black level is like.


Yesterday I put on on a deck, the warmth of the level melted the ice on the deck and then it froze to the surface and I had to chip my level off of the ice. You ever have that problem?


----------



## john5mt

The only reason I saw to buy the vecturo over the super cut was the plunge base. Which is really cool. But the supercut seemed to have all the other features plus an attempt at dust collection. 

I've got an old original fein that you have to use the Allen head screw on so I'll pick up a vecturo soon I think


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> Has anyone on here bought it? Even my fanboy ass ain't yet. Now if it would have had dust extraction then that would have def been on my Christmas list. It just don't offer anything my current Fein can do. It's not like it's a precision cutting tool either. Maybe if my Fein dies one day or there's a specific reason I need one of the attachments then I may jump on it. I think they are just way too late to the OT game. Just like they were with the impact.


I have had it for a few months. I really don't think dust extraction is needed, it doesn't throw dust 20 feet like a ts55. 

I think they should have made it better known that is in the same class as the super cut (they worked with fein on this) not a regular multi master. 

You say they are late to the game, but I am not sure how much longer the fien supercut will be around. They are focusing all their efforts on the metal finishing industry at fien.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> Yesterday I put on on a deck, the warmth of the level melted the ice on the deck and then it froze to the surface and I had to chip my level off of the ice. You ever have that problem?


I've only been to the snow 4 or five times in my life, for vacation.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I have had it for a few months. I really don't think dust extraction is needed, it doesn't throw dust 20 feet like a ts55.
> 
> I think they should have made it better known that is in the same class as the super cut (they worked with fein on this) not a regular multi master.
> 
> You say they are late to the game, but I am not sure how much longer the fien supercut will be around. They are focusing all their efforts on the metal finishing industry at fien.


I use my vac with the fein because the dust gets too much when im trying to keep dust down. As an example yesterday i had to cut about 30ft of drywall. the MM does a great job and cuts quick but without me holding the vac on the blade it will fill the room with dust pretty quickly. I cant see the supercut going anywhere as there's a lot of people who use that model specifically for its power and the price it can be had for is unreal at times. a friend just bought one for $300 i think he said on sale. 

I just cant see why making a vac attachment for it would have been difficult as i hold my hose about 2" from the blade and it sucks the dust up very well. They would have only of had to make an adapter to hold the hose like i do by hand.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The one for the supercut fits on the vecturo. Maybe they decided to not spend a bunch of money changing the colors on it. 

A OT does not fill the air up with drywall dust. I have cut plenty and it just falls to the floor. It makes less mess then a key hole saw. 

I had someone borrow my MM a few years ago and never return it. This a nice tool for someone looking to upgrade or replace an old tool. 

Everyone doesn't always need everything, well apparently there are some that just want everything even when they have no use for it.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The one for the supercut fits on the vecturo. Maybe they decided to not spend a bunch of money changing the colors on it.
> 
> A OT does not fill the air up with drywall dust. I have cut plenty and it just falls to the floor. It makes less mess then a key hole saw.
> 
> I had someone borrow my MM a few years ago and never return it. This a nice tool for someone looking to upgrade or replace an old tool.
> 
> Everyone doesn't always need everything, well apparently there are some that just want everything even when they have no use for it.


Yeah it makes no more mess than a drywall saw but thats the problem its still a lot of mess in a finished home. If i cut with my vac on i can cut with almost zero dust next to a TV or AMP and not have a spec on the finish where as without it im kicking dust all around me about 4ft out each side when doing a cut at about counter height. No dust would be better than a little dust. I got a feeling my MM gonna outlast me though so i may never own one. I do like the plunge base but cant think of one situation where i would have ever had the need for it. hopefully it don't end the same way as the Impact.


----------



## Inner10

Is the plunge base included?


----------



## jlyons

In the set. You can buy without.


----------



## overanalyze

There are some pictures in the wild showing the plunge base will fit the new 350 MM too.


----------



## Johnny_5

Anyone with a Kapex ever encounter the miter detents being way off? Was able to give the new Kpaex a workout last week and right off the bat found that my 45's were way off. Tried to adjust them myself, took a couple hours and I got them pretty close (good enough to finish what I was working on), but spoke to Festool and decided to send it back to them for recalibration. Just couldn't seem to get the 45's to perfect, no matter how I oriented/tweaked the miter plate. Here's a couple pics of how far they were off out the box (I aligned the laser with the blade edge). Granted I'm using a little Swanson square and not a machinists straight edge, but you get the idea. 

I will say Festool customer service and Bob Marino were quick with the help, and hopefully the tool comes back to me perfect. I really like this saw. The cuts are beautiful even with the factory blade, and the dust collection gives me the ability to set it up in the kitchen/room where I'm working. Saw is always 10 steps away, which saves me tons of time over the course of a day. Not to mention, it's cold out here right now, so staying indoors is a huge plus! :thumbup:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Johnny_5 said:


> Anyone with a Kapex ever encounter the miter detents being way off? Was able to give the new Kpaex a workout last week and right off the bat found that my 45's were way off. Tried to adjust them myself, took a couple hours and I got them pretty close (good enough to finish what I was working on), but spoke to Festool and decided to send it back to them for recalibration. Just couldn't seem to get the 45's to perfect, no matter how I oriented/tweaked the miter plate. Here's a couple pics of how far they were off out the box (I aligned the laser with the blade edge). Granted I'm using a little Swanson square and not a machinists straight edge, but you get the idea.
> 
> I will say Festool customer service and Bob Marino were quick with the help, and hopefully the tool comes back to me perfect. I really like this saw. The cuts are beautiful even with the factory blade, and the dust collection gives me the ability to set it up in the kitchen/room where I'm working. Saw is always 10 steps away, which saves me tons of time over the course of a day. Not to mention, it's cold out here right now, so staying indoors is a huge plus! :thumbup:


Prob not the best square to use for testing a 45. The few i have had were not at all accurate. It does look like its off though even with that square.


----------



## Johnny_5

BCConstruction said:


> Prob not the best square to use for testing a 45. The few i have had were not at all accurate. It does look like its off though even with that square.


Yeah, not a great square, that's mostly the reason for sending it back to have them align it. The left 45 was a blade width off in the depth of the table, right was about 1/2 blade. Didn't need the square to tell me though, my first few returns on the cabinet trim were out of square 1/8" heavy in 14". Ended up just using the miter finder and locking in the angles manually for each cut to finish the job. I wouldn't expect that lack of precision from a DeWalt, let alone the $1400 king of saws! Those basic settings should be spot on right out of the box!


----------



## Johnny_5

Got some shopping done at the local dealer today. Mainly some new blades and CT stuff. They had an open house and workshop with some local reps and the vecturo. Not bad, but can't see dropping the coin on one. Does pretty much what my Bosch oscillator does, but with fancy attachments. Seemed excessively loud as well, but they all are. Screw the dust collection, if they can make an oscillator as quiet as a CT, I'm in!










And here's a pic of the jig I whipped up the other day so I can cut cabinet fillers with the TS. Also added an additional sticky strip to the track about an inch off the splinter guard.


----------



## overanalyze

BCConstruction said:


> Yeah it makes no more mess than a drywall saw but thats the problem its still a lot of mess in a finished home. If i cut with my vac on i can cut with almost zero dust next to a TV or AMP and not have a spec on the finish where as without it im kicking dust all around me about 4ft out each side when doing a cut at about counter height. No dust would be better than a little dust. I got a feeling my MM gonna outlast me though so i may never own one. I do like the plunge base but cant think of one situation where i would have ever had the need for it. hopefully it don't end the same way as the Impact.


There is a dust collection attachment for the MM. I think it is just for sanding though. Bosch has one for their corded OMT too.


----------



## tjbnwi

Johnny_5 said:


> Anyone with a Kapex ever encounter the miter detents being way off? Was able to give the new Kpaex a workout last week and right off the bat found that my 45's were way off. Tried to adjust them myself, took a couple hours and I got them pretty close (good enough to finish what I was working on), but spoke to Festool and decided to send it back to them for recalibration. Just couldn't seem to get the 45's to perfect, no matter how I oriented/tweaked the miter plate. Here's a couple pics of how far they were off out the box (I aligned the laser with the blade edge). Granted I'm using a little Swanson square and not a machinists straight edge, but you get the idea.
> 
> I will say Festool customer service and Bob Marino were quick with the help, and hopefully the tool comes back to me perfect. I really like this saw. The cuts are beautiful even with the factory blade, and the dust collection gives me the ability to set it up in the kitchen/room where I'm working. Saw is always 10 steps away, which saves me tons of time over the course of a day. Not to mention, it's cold out here right now, so staying indoors is a huge plus! :thumbup:


To adjust the Kapex for square to the fence you move the miter scale, left or right. To adjust the 45º you move the scale towards the base or away from the base. From the looks of yours they will move the scale out about 0.03125". By moving the scale out it will allow the table to travel farther before the detent stops it.

Took me about an hour to set the first Kapex I did. The last one was 5 minutes, maybe. 

Tom


----------



## Johnny_5

tjbnwi said:


> To adjust the Kapex for square to the fence you move the miter scale, left or right. To adjust the 45º you move the scale towards the base or away from the base. From the looks of yours they will move the scale out about 0.03125". By moving the scale out it will allow the table to travel farther before the detent stops it.
> 
> Took me about an hour to set the first Kapex I did. The last one was 5 minutes, maybe.
> 
> Tom


.03125"????  which tick mark is that on my tape measure? :laughing: I thought the price of the saw was all inclusive, didn't realize I also had to spend hundreds on machinists tools to set it up! 

That's how I got it close, but the process was making me nuts. Is there a certain order of ops? I was setting zero, locking that screw, then going left and right to adjust the 45 by moving the fence in or out on each side. Trouble was, if I didn't lock the zero where it needed to be (in/out), then I could only get one side set. Once two screws are locked down, I was just left with whatever the other side was. If it was off, then start over. If I left the screws slightly loose, i was afraid of moving the scale when moving the carriage left or right. Since the saw is only a week old, I felt this was not something I should have to spend my weekend doing....


----------



## tjbnwi

1/32"

I use feeler gauges between the miter plate and the saw base. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Hey....just got the bosch jigsaw 

http://www.cpooutlets.com/bosch-js5...l,default,pd.html?start=3&cgid=bosch-jig-saws

The boot hose connector works with 36m hose so no more carrying the 27 or both or the $50 connector from Bob Marino which is excellent btw but again it's one more thing you have to jam somewhere.

it's one or the other. Haven't had time to follow through but feel free browse. 
Vacuum Hose Adapter - VAC024
Suction Nozzle - 2605730061 

the jig saw is quit impressive. Cut a bunch of arches with 2x cedar for pergola. perfect 90 w/5" blades. It has 2-control wheels where the festi has 3. I might actually send it back for the carvex those dam accessories are the crack selling point of Festi...For another $70.bucks you get the b festi base model. The bosch is nicely package but if I keep it I'll sell off the lbox. 


I have to say it again that ac36 is just amazing. The dc hooked up to the kapex is over and above what it was with the my midi. Even with the full 11ft hose. I still have not time to place side x side and swap out the hep for non. It brings to the upper 90's % in dc. 


:thumbsup:


----------



## Lettusbee

Have you seen this for the Kapex issues?
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/#more-2837


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

here's the attachment 

http://www.abt.com/product/81608/Bo...id=65523699&utm_medium=aff&utm_campaign=61806


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

I just cleaned my 26 bag out tonight using my dust collector.

Maybe 45 seconds......no dust......saved a bag.

I feel like a genius.


----------



## [email protected]

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I just cleaned my 26 bag out tonight using my dust collector.
> 
> Maybe 45 seconds......no dust......saved a bag.
> 
> I feel like a genius.


Cut the end of your bag dump the dust out, roll a 1/2" dowel up in it, Slide a slit piece of PVC over it to clamp it. Bang! you just made yourself a reusable bag, when the time comes toss it and reuse the PVC and Dowel on a new bag.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

[email protected] said:


> Cut the end of your bag dump the dust out, roll a 1/2" dowel up in it, Slide a slit piece of PVC over it to clamp it. Bang! you just made yourself a reusable bag, when the time comes toss it and reuse the PVC and Dowel on a new bag.


I've been wanting to do that.
Or the clips like someone mentioned here.

I duct taped a Midi bag once......with excellent results.

Now that I know the dust collector is so easy........those days are well past.

I might even be cheap enough to do it when I'm on site. Bring them back to the shop just to save the however many bucks.


----------



## [email protected]

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I've been wanting to do that.
> Or the clips like someone mentioned here.
> 
> I duct taped a Midi bag once......with excellent results.
> 
> Now that I know the dust collector is so easy........those days are well past.
> 
> I might even be cheap enough to do it when I'm on site. Bring them back to the shop just to save the however many bucks.


Cant blame you! I have three Festool Vacs and the cost of those bags adds up quick!


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Well I cracked and got this bad boy today. I cant wait to try it out tomorrow.


----------



## [email protected]

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Well I cracked and got this bad boy today. I cant wait to try it out tomorrow.
> View attachment 123418



Good choice, You won't be disappointed


----------



## Calidecks

Has anyone sent thier Kapex to festool for a rebuild? If so what's the usual turn around time? I've use the hell out of mine, it's ready! Problem is, doing without it for a long period of time.


----------



## [email protected]

Californiadecks said:


> Has anyone sent thier Kapex to festool for a rebuild? If so what's the usual turn around time? I've use the hell out of mine, it's ready! Problem is, doing without it for a long period of time.


48 hour Standard repair 

https://www.festoolusa.com/service/

I need to send my carvex in :sad:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Has anyone sent thier Kapex to festool for a rebuild? If so what's the usual turn around time? I've use the hell out of mine, it's ready! Problem is, doing without it for a long period of time.


I'm packaging mine up tomorrow . Getting dropped off at fedex Wed. I'll be in punch out mode till next Monday so I'll let you know.

Less the Holiday It shouldn't be out more then 3/days.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I'm packaging mine up tomorrow . Getting dropped off at fedex Wed. I'll be in punch out mode till next Monday so I'll let you know.
> 
> Less the Holiday It shouldn't be out more then 3/days.


What did you package in? I through out my box.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> What did you package in? I through out my box.



I kept mine...


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> What did you package in? I through out my box.


Call Festool, they may send you a box. 

Tom


----------



## Johnny_5

Just sent mine back recently, not for a rebuild, but to realign the miter guage and adjust the table tightness and miter guage scrape. Dropped it off at UPS on a Saturday and had it back in my hands a week from the Monday. So I was without it for 6 business days.

Let us know if they send you a free box, I'd love to throw mine out, can't stand the clutter of empty boxes....


----------



## David7586

I recently got mine serviced. I believe I paid about $18 plus shipping for the replacement box as I have thrown it out. My Kapex was approaching its third year of service.


----------



## BBuild

[email protected] said:


> 48 hour Standard repair
> 
> https://www.festoolusa.com/service/
> 
> I need to send my carvex in :sad:


What kind of issues are you having with your Carvex? I just got one and want to know if there's anything to look out for.


----------



## [email protected]

BBuild said:


> What kind of issues are you having with your Carvex? I just got one and want to know if there's anything to look out for.



The piston that holds the blade won't fully retract when I shut it off, which means you have to force it back up before you are able to change a blade.


----------



## TimelessQuality

Finally trimmed a door with the TS55... Wow!:thumbup:

Makes me want to run around cutting off all the doors I can find:clap:


----------



## overanalyze

TimelessQuality said:


> Finally trimmed a door with the TS55... Wow!:thumbup:
> 
> Makes me want to run around cutting off all the doors I can find:clap:


That is one of those tasks I really used to hate...not now.


----------



## Johnny_5

Got the Kapex back last week and finally got a chance to work it out a bit. They got the 45's pretty much spot on, loosened up the base a bit to make it easier to rotate, and got rid of the scraping on the miter guage. Plus they gave it a good cleaning and replaced the laser adjustment sticker (which I had to readjust, so that was pointless). Why don't they punch those holes out for the adjusters at the factory? It'd look a lot better than punching the holes with a pencil tip..... Overall, very happy with the results, this thing rocks! :thumbup:


----------



## tjbnwi

TimelessQuality said:


> Finally trimmed a door with the TS55... Wow!:thumbup:
> 
> Makes me want to run around cutting off all the doors I can find:clap:


If you have the R model TS-55 you can trim the bottom of the door without remove the door from the jamb.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> If you have the R model TS-55 you can trim the bottom of the door without remove the door from the jamb.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



I love hearing your tricks. Care to explain? Why just the R?


----------



## MDjim

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I love hearing your tricks. Care to explain? Why just the R?



I actually just looked on YouTube. I only saw a video with the dewalt. They clamped the track on with the door open. The r's flat housing allows it to get close enough to the floor to trim it.


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I love hearing your tricks. Care to explain? Why just the R?


The R has the flat side, the E the hose connector protrudes past the edge of the saw body.

The other advantage to the R is the riving knife can be used to reset the rail.

The R allows you to set the depth in 1/10th mm increments. 

In this video they trim along a wall, you can do the same thing running the side against the floor. It removes about 1/2" of the bottom of the door.

http://www.tracksaw.com/tracksaw/models/ts55req-tracksaw/

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> The R has the flat side, the E the hose connector protrudes past the edge of the saw body.
> 
> The other advantage to the R is the riving knife can be used to reset the rail.
> 
> The R allows you to set the depth in 1/10th mm increments.
> 
> In this video they trim along a wall, you can do the same thing running the side against the floor. It removes about 1/2" of the bottom of the door.
> 
> http://www.tracksaw.com/tracksaw/models/ts55req-tracksaw/
> 
> Tom



Sweet. Didn't know the difference since I only have the R. What do you do with carpet below?

I've used it at the wall before. It's handy for sure.


----------



## TimelessQuality

I had to walk into a dealer and play with demos before I decided... I'll try to use them whenever I can...


If no one goes to tool stores, there wont be any tool stores


----------



## MDjim

cpmllc said:


> Do you guys have dealers local to you that you buy from or do you buy online.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in trying/buying the track saw and possibly a vac. I have never seen anything festool in person, want to see what all the hype is about.



I made my initial purchases from a woodcraft about 1.5 hrs away. It's the closet dealer. There not the most knowledgeable about the products though, at least at the store I used. 

I bought my cxs on Amazon, but after hearing about the great service from bob and other dealers the guys on here use, my next purchase will definitely be from one of them.


----------



## cpmllc

Thanks for all the replies. I'll check out bob online.

I think there used to be a woodcraft in harrisburg pa, not sure if it's still there though. I sort of remember going in there with my dad a long time ago.


----------



## cpmllc

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> You will........ understand the "hype" (then....you will become addicted very quickly (be careful)).
> 
> I'm not scared. Lol. I'm all ready a tool junkie as it is, can't wait to try a whole new line.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

TimelessQuality said:


> I had to walk into a dealer and play with demos before I decided... I'll try to use them whenever I can...
> 
> 
> If no one goes to tool stores, there wont be any tool stores


I agree, but the retail stores that carry them suck, at least the majority. 

Had a local woodcraft for a while, bought a lot there. They closed, nearest real store is 90 minutes away. Bob has my tools on my porch the next day.


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Mine does affect my life.
> 
> Anything over an inch or so, I have to cut only from the left side.
> (or I am phucked on precise glue-ups.....just enough to matter to me)
> 
> That sucks.
> 
> I'll probably never get around to sending it in .......:whistling


Send me pictures of your issue with the saw. I'll send you back the necessary correction steps. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

cpmllc said:


> Do you guys have dealers local to you that you buy from or do you buy online.
> 
> I'm interested in trying/buying the track saw and possibly a vac. I have never seen anything festool in person, want to see what all the hype is about.


Tool-Home, Tom call Tom, he'll take good care of your needs. The advantage of going through a dealer is if you have questions or issues they'll be there to help.

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

Does anyone have the dts400? I'm debating picking one up. I have ets and ro 125, but would like something that can get into corners and hand small stock.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I am afraid due to what you have done, you will have to delve into adjusting both fences and the miter plate thingy now. It can be done, it is just touchy.


Due to what I have done?


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> Does anyone have the dts400? I'm debating picking one up. I have ets and ro 125, but would like something that can get into corners and hand small stock.



DTS and RTS. I use the DTS on drywall corners and field work, RTS for cabinet and trim work.

The HSK 80x130 (with extraction) and Pocket Stickfix are must haves also.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> Send me pictures of your issue with the saw. I'll send you back the necessary correction steps.
> 
> Tom


I think the fence may be off a hair.

I don't have a really precise straight edge. I just use the aluminum straight thing that came with one of my MFT'S. It looks fine on that in terms of straight across the entire fence.........

Truth is, I haven't really gotten too deep into it. I got the left almost dead (.001), and then realized my cuts from the right were very consistently off a bit......pretty much end of story in my mind as to where the problem exists.

I tried to reset the right using a couple Bessey DuoKlamps on the MFT fence/straightedge while I tightened down the set screws, but it was still off a bit and I had to get moving that day and haven't gotten to it yet.

I'll give it another shot and document the process so you can bail me out.:thumbsup:

Thanks..........


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> DTS and RTS. I use the DTS on drywall corners and field work, RTS for cabinet and trim work.
> 
> The HSK 80x130 (with extraction) and Pocket Stickfix are must haves also.
> 
> Tom


Just got a couple Stickfix's...

then I realized I needed paper.

I ordered some.

Do you use the Festool sheets for it, or have you found a better option?


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I think the fence may be off a hair.
> 
> I don't have a really precise straight edge. I just use the aluminum straight thing that came with one of my MFT'S. It looks fine on that in terms of straight across the entire fence.........
> 
> Truth is, I haven't really gotten too deep into it. I got the left almost dead (.001), and then realized my cuts from the right were very consistently off a bit......pretty much end of story in my mind as to where the problem exists.
> 
> I tried to reset the right using a couple Bessey DuoKlamps on the MFT fence/straightedge while I tightened down the set screws, but it was still off a bit and I had to get moving that day and haven't gotten to it yet.
> 
> I'll give it another shot and document the process so you can bail me out.:thumbsup:
> 
> Thanks..........


Call service, see if they'll send you a new fence yoke. Easy change out.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Got myself a Christmas present.

Compliments the open tops well. Need 2 more now.:roll eyes:


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Just got a couple Stickfix's...
> 
> then I realized I needed paper.
> 
> I ordered some.
> 
> Do you use the Festool sheets for it, or have you found a better option?


I'm the laziest person you'll ever know, I send Tom an email or call him and the items magically appear in my garage 2 days latter.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Got myself a Christmas present.
> 
> Compliments the open tops well. Need 2 more now.:roll eyes:


I need to add one more of those to my next tool order. I need it to store cabinets bits and pieces.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> Call service, see if they'll send you a new fence yoke. Easy change out.
> 
> Tom


Never thought of that.

Wait for the yoke....not the entire saw.:thumbup:

Steven will take care of it (one of the benefits of being a Festooliphile).


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Never thought of that.
> 
> Wait for the yoke....not the entire saw.:thumbup:
> 
> Steven will take care of it (one of the benefits of being a Festooliphile).


Who's Steven?

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

My buddy got me this.

Can't be held in the open position. Always retracts.....

Used it today....kinda lame. (let's see if it ends up how it always does with me and Festools....I just haven't figured it out yet?:whistling)


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> My buddy got me this.
> 
> Can't be held in the open position. Always retracts.....
> 
> Used it today....kinda lame. (let's see if it ends up how it always does with me and Festools....I just haven't figured it out yet?:whistling)


When I worked in industry we had to use safety utility knifes, they're self retracting. I brought my one knifes and told Safety Dude to look the other way.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> Who's Steven?
> 
> Tom


My Festool guy at ToolTown.

He'll send the yoke and then work it out on his end. 

Just wish every company I dealt with was half as good as them (offing Toyota leaf spring recall)


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> When I worked in industry we had to use safety utility knifes, they're self retracting. I brought my one knifes and told Safety Dude to look the other way.
> 
> Tom


I now understand why.

I kept thinking..."why would anybody do this to a perfectly good knife?"


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I kept thinking..."why would anybody do this to a perfectly good knife?"


Because we have to protect people from themselves.

I removed the tip of my right index finger with a utility knife. The homeowner was not sure which was dumber, cutting it off or me suturing it back in place so I could get back to work.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> Because we have to protect people from themselves.
> 
> I removed the tip of my right index finger with a utility knife. The homeowner was not sure which was dumber, cutting it off or me suturing it back in place so I could get back to work.
> 
> Tom


Lazy?

Uh.......huh:whistling


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Lazy?
> 
> Uh.......huh:whistling


To lazy to drive to the ER. 

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> To lazy to drive to the ER.
> 
> Tom


:thumbsup:
:laughing::laughing::laughing:

:notworthy


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> To lazy to drive to the ER.
> 
> Tom


Shot myself through the thumb with a framing gun in the 1st year. Galvanized nails got stuck and one came out sideways and I wasn't smart enough to always keep my hands 4" away from the gun.

Client said she'd drive me to the hospital, she didn't want me to need to drive with my thumb like that.

I taped it and kept working. What the hell would I need to go to a hospital for...??


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> :thumbsup:
> :laughing::laughing::laughing:
> 
> :notworthy


You laugh, but ever time I talk to Tom I realize just how lazy he is.

Stupidly clever and incredibly lazy. I aspire to be more like him. :thumbsup:

Then I realize he's really old, at least I've got a while to catch up... :jester: :laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Shot myself through the thumb with a framing gun in the 1st year. Galvanized nails got stuck and one came out sideways and I wasn't smart enough to always keep my hands 4" away from the gun.
> 
> Client said she'd drive me to the hospital, she didn't want me to need to drive with my thumb like that.
> 
> I taped it and kept working. What the hell would I need to go to a hospital for...??


Wait until your brother in law staples your foot to the floor with a 2" 7/16 crown staple. That was a good time when he removed it. 

I've got my hand and arm with a nailer, those were fun also.

Tom


----------



## jlyons

aaron_a said:


> Does anyone have the dts400? I'm debating picking one up. I have ets and ro 125, but would like something that can get into corners and hand small stock.



Yes I have a Dts400 and think it is exactly what you are looking for likely. The edges are beveled on the top side so you can get right up next to a cabinet side or whatever.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Wait until your brother in law staples your foot to the floor with a 2" 7/16 crown staple. That was a good time when he removed it.
> 
> I've got my hand and arm with a nailer, those were fun also.
> 
> Tom


Mine works with me every day so I'll trust him to be smarter than that. If he does, I might grab it and staple his to the floor too... :jester:

One of our guys was on a step ladder nailing an outside corner together that I was holding aligned for him. I'm looking down, and I feel something hit my head. Not too hard, just a little pain. I look up and the framing gun is now at his side.
Me "Was that the gun...?"

Him "Yeah"

Me "Give me the gun..."

Him "Yeah..."

When bringing the gun down after firing he hit my head with the safety...


----------



## Calidecks

I've shot a 16 through my arm and out the other side. I've cut myself on the table saw, by reaching underneath to clear the sawdust and my thumb hit the moving blade. Just ripped off my thumbnail and caused me to chit my pants was about it. I've also cut myself twice with the Skilsaw. Never anything that couldn't heal. Thirty years of this stuff it's hard to get out unscathed.


----------



## aaron_a

jlyons said:


> Yes I have a Dts400 and think it is exactly what you are looking for likely. The edges are beveled on the top side so you can get right up next to a cabinet side or whatever.


Thanks, I'm thinking. It would be great for cabinet corners and face frames.


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> Thanks, I'm thinking. It would be great for cabinet corners and face frames.


The RO 90 is much better for face frames.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> The RO 90 is much better for face frames.
> 
> Tom



Yeah, I'm kind of up in the air on the ro90 vs the dts400.

The 90 seems like it would be great, I love my ro125, I just don't know if I want to spend another 400 bucks on another sander right now.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

aaron_a said:


> Yeah, I'm kind of up in the air on the ro90 vs the dts400.
> 
> The 90 seems like it would be great, I love my ro125, I just don't know if I want to spend another 400 bucks on another sander right now.


I had both the 125 and 90, never used the 90. Too close in size to the 125 to make it a tool that was worth it for me.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I had both the 125 and 90, never used the 90. Too close in size to the 125 to make it a tool that was worth it for me.


I get much less paper tear when I use the 90 on face frames. With the delta head he also gets the corner sander he's looking for.

Tom


----------



## J L

I initially bought the 400 but ended up returning it for the RO90.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> I get much less paper tear when I use the 90 on face frames. With the delta head he also gets the corner sander he's looking for.
> 
> Tom


I have the dx93 Found it to be a better detail sander then the 90 in that mode with that pad. The 90 was quite a bit taller and could not get under certain things the dx93 could. 

I rarely have the sand paper tear unless I am sanding something that I shouldn't be.


----------



## [email protected]

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Just a little side note on the speed of Festool tool repairs, I printed and shipped my carvex Monday got an email yesterday saying it had been recieved, and this afternoon recieved another message saying the service was complete and had been shipped back my way and should have it by Tuesday next week...

7 days is Pretty fast service if you ask me


----------



## Calidecks

So I sent a note to Festool to go ahead and charge me for the broken parts where I had a kickback, and give it a tune up. I got an email that said it's on its way back, now either they didn't fix the broken chit that was my fault or they fixed it and didn't charge me a red cent. We'll see.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

[email protected] said:


> Just a little side note on the speed of Festool tool repairs, I printed and shipped my carvex Monday got an email yesterday saying it had been recieved, and this afternoon recieved another message saying the service was complete and had been shipped back my way and should have it by Tuesday next week...
> 
> 7 days is Pretty fast service if you ask me


They strive for 48 hour turn around.

I think there are two guys in the service department.


----------



## Calidecks

So does the adaptors fit the vecturo, so you can use any blades?


----------



## tjbnwi

The Fien for the Super Cut will work on the Vecturo.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> The Fien for the Super Cut will work on the Vecturo.
> 
> Tom


So it will adapt out to use Bosch blades. I'm thinking of getting the kit, I had to cut open some drywall using the Makita, the dust sucked. I wonder how the noise is compared to the others. That Makita is God awful loud.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> So it will adapt out to use Bosch blades. I'm thinking of getting the kit, I had to cut open some drywall using the Makita, the dust sucked. I wonder how the noise is compared to the others. That Makita is God awful loud.


The Festool doesn't come with a vacuum attachment. Just a heads up.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> The Festool doesn't come with a vacuum attachment. Just a heads up.


The kit doesn't?


----------



## Calidecks

Well I guess I just saved 575.00


----------



## Calidecks

Thanks Travis


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> The kit doesn't?


Festool doesn't make a vac attachment for it. The idea being that it's a low dust tool. Cutting drywall with it makes a bunch of dust though. Fein has an attachment for theirs though. Maybe you could hook it up to the Vecturo?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> Well I guess I just saved 575.00





Californiadecks said:


> Thanks Travis


Cutting drywall is really the only thing I use it for that I wish I had dust extraction. I've got a Bosch OMT not the Festool.

Might one day get the Festool cause of the systainer idea (you could say I'm investing, just not where Barri is yet) and the attachments for it look nice. Price on it's not bad for the tool itself when you subtract the value of the systainer and attachments. Blades are reasonably priced as well.


----------



## Calidecks

I need something different, the Makita I have doesn't have the quick change blade, I lost the Allen and didn't have one on my truck to fit it. I'm not used to not having the right chit, I was very pissed to say the least. 

I wonder if the others are less noisy, I cringe everytime I turn that thing on, especially indoors.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> I need something different, the Makita I have doesn't have the quick change blade, I lost the Allen and didn't have one on my truck to fit it. I'm not used to not having the right chit, I was very pissed to say the least.
> 
> I wonder if the others are less noisy, I cringe everytime I turn that thing on, especially indoors.


Quick change is nice. Last OMT didn't have it but it was a cheap one. The Bosch has it and I love it.

The two I've used are loud as hell but maybe one out there magically isn't. If you turn down the speed it makes them a little quieter though.

A kit like this might be nice. It's got dust extraction.


----------



## Calidecks

Or this: http://www.amazon.com/Fein-9-26-02-081-01-0-Multimaster-Dust-Extractor/dp/B0010YFS0W

With this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/FEIN-Multimaster-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Kit-FMM-250-Start-Q/202980163

I could save over a hundred bucks. 

I already have the sustainer insert with the systainer.


----------



## overanalyze

Look at the new Fein 350 Mike. Vibration reduction and is supposed to be a bit quieter. If our 250 dies I think this will be it's replacement. Also a big thing to me is this one accepts the Bosch blades. Their carbide blades are fantastic and last forever!!! The Supercut and Vecturo blades are expensive! 

http://www.toolnut.com/Fein_FMM350QStart_Multimaster_Oscillating_Tool_Kit_p/fmm350qstart.htm


----------



## tjbnwi

Dust extraction does not work well on the Fein. I have a MM that came with the linked attachment, could not tell the difference between using the attachment or not.

Mike, get an MM with the quick change, unless your using the unit a lot there is no need for the Vecturo or a Super Cut. If you don't make many cuts, maybe the cordless MM?

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Look at the new Fein 350 Mike. Vibration reduction and is supposed to be a bit quieter. If our 250 dies I think this will be it's replacement. Also a big thing to me is this one accepts the Bosch blades. Their carbide blades are fantastic and last forever!!! The Supercut and Vecturo blades are expensive!
> 
> http://www.toolnut.com/Fein_FMM350QStart_Multimaster_Oscillating_Tool_Kit_p/fmm350qstart.htm


It's that the difference, the vibration? If the vibes are reduced it just makes sense the noise would be also. Any other improvements besides those?


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Look at the new Fein 350 Mike. Vibration reduction and is supposed to be a bit quieter. If our 250 dies I think this will be it's replacement. Also a big thing to me is this one accepts the Bosch blades. Their carbide blades are fantastic and last forever!!! The Supercut and Vecturo blades are expensive!
> 
> http://www.toolnut.com/Fein_FMM350QStart_Multimaster_Oscillating_Tool_Kit_p/fmm350qstart.htm


I think with the more power, it would work better cutting composite. I cut composite with my Makita and it does alright, but it's slow.


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> It's that the difference, the vibration? If the vibes are reduced it just makes sense the noise would be also. Any other improvements besides those?


 The 350 is getting very good reviews right now. I view it as an in between...in between the original MM250 and the Supercut/Vecturo. I have been very happy with our MM250 but would like less vibration and noise. I think somewhere I even saw the plunge base from Festool will work on the MM350. 

I like Festool but they missed the mark here...everyone was hoping for their trademark dust collection to be integrated and it wasn't.


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> The 350 is getting very good reviews right now. I view it as an in between...in between the original MM250 and the Supercut/Vecturo. I have been very happy with our MM250 but would like less vibration and noise. I think somewhere I even saw the plunge base from Festool will work on the MM350.
> 
> I like Festool but they missed the mark here...everyone was hoping for their trademark dust collection to be integrated and it wasn't.


The dust extraction is what most justify the three times cost of the others, without it it's just another oscillating tool if you don't need the attachments.


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Is that what you sent it out for originally? If not did they fix the other issues(s)?
> 
> Do they have your insert to send back to you?
> 
> Tom


I sent it in to replace that broken part, which included a letter representing this. They sent me back my betterly insert but they just left it in the box and put one of theirs back on it, which I didn't ask for. I don't even know if they recalibrated anything or not. It's back inside the box ready to ship back out. Now I have to my due with my Makita.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

did you call and tell them this before you sent it in to initiate a service order or just send it with a note? they always send paperwork back with a repair.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> did you call and tell them this before you sent it in to initiate a service order or just send it with a note? they always send paperwork back with a repair.


I initially called them to see how I was to proceed. He said to put the info reflecting what I want fixed on a repair order, which I did in detail. Sent it in and got it back with a new insert. I even wrote that I understand there will be a charge. So bill me accordingly.


----------



## Calidecks

I also wrote on the order to go over the whole saw and fix anything broke and recalibrate.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

That's odd they just must not like you


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> That's odd they just must not like you


Or they have a bunch of idiots working for them. Since they don't know me, the latter is more accurate.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I had the same problem with my vac. Sent it in because of an awful noise and they sent it back making the same noise. It would have been impossible not to hear the problem if they turned it on and tested it. They said to send it back in but I never did get round to doing that again as it was a hassle boxing the thing up and being without it. 

I will get back to sending it in again soon as I'm not using it much currently.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> Or they have a bunch of idiots working for them. Since they don't know me, the latter is more accurate.


They may read CT.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

You know who I ain't seen around for a while is Shane. Is he still over on FOG?


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> You know who I ain't seen around for a while is Shane. Is he still over on FOG?


Yes.

Tom


----------



## Johnny_5

They did pretty well when mine was in for service. Fixed the miter guage scraping, recalibrated the miter gauge, and loosened up the rotation quite a bit. Apparently didn't follow the next request which was "give the saw a once over and make sure everything is within spec." Got it back and the base isn't near flat. I'm sending it back in Saturday for repair/exchange, sucks since all the other calibrations are now where I like them. I don't want a new saw that will have to go back and get all the first stuff redone. And I can't live with the crooked base. Coworker just bought a $300 Kobalt and the base is dead flat. If Kobalt can get that **** right, then Festool better step up. They will pay shipping 40 times if that's what it takes to get a perfect saw......

And yes, on the first service they took out my zero clear insert.....and replaced the laser sticker??? Why they can't punch the adjustment holes in the sticker at the factory, I will never understand. Looks like crap when I have to punch them with a ball point pen......


----------



## Inner10

Johnny_5 said:


> They did pretty well when mine was in for service. Fixed the miter guage scraping, recalibrated the miter gauge, and loosened up the rotation quite a bit. Apparently didn't follow the next request which was "give the saw a once over and make sure everything is within spec." Got it back and the base isn't near flat. I'm sending it back in Saturday for repair/exchange, sucks since all the other calibrations are now where I like them. I don't want a new saw that will have to go back and get all the first stuff redone. And I can't live with the crooked base. Coworker just bought a $300 Kobalt and the base is dead flat. If Kobalt can get that **** right, then Festool better step up. They will pay shipping 40 times if that's what it takes to get a perfect saw......


The average buyer has too replace their Kapex 3 times before they get a good one.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Johnny_5 said:


> They did pretty well when mine was in for service. Fixed the miter guage scraping, recalibrated the miter gauge, and loosened up the rotation quite a bit. Apparently didn't follow the next request which was "give the saw a once over and make sure everything is within spec." Got it back and the base isn't near flat. I'm sending it back in Saturday for repair/exchange, sucks since all the other calibrations are now where I like them. I don't want a new saw that will have to go back and get all the first stuff redone. And I can't live with the crooked base. Coworker just bought a $300 Kobalt and the base is dead flat. If Kobalt can get that **** right, then Festool better step up. They will pay shipping 40 times if that's what it takes to get a perfect saw......
> 
> And yes, on the first service they took out my zero clear insert.....and replaced the laser sticker??? Why they can't punch the adjustment holes in the sticker at the factory, I will never understand. Looks like crap when I have to punch them with a ball point pen......


I use my counter sink bit to make the hole nice. works real well. Just be gentle.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> The average buyer has too replace their Kapex 3 times before they get a good one.


Who told you that :laughing:


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> Who told you that :laughing:


CT Statistics.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> They may read CT.


According to others on here I'm not the only one they don't like then, or as I said, they are idiots. Probably the latter. I hope they are reading this, they get to know what happens when they don't do their jobs correctly. I had an excellent experience with the Milwaukee customer service. If Milwaukee can get it right you'd think Festool could.


----------



## john5mt

Can you put the festool on the rollup mafell track?


----------



## Inner10

john5mt said:


> Can you put the festool on the rollup mafell track?


I don't know but I don't think so, I remember reading the mafell saw will fit on the festool track, but the festool won't fit on the mafell track.


----------



## BBuild

john5mt said:


> Can you put the festool on the rollup mafell track?


Negative. The raised part of the Mafell track is very narrow. The mt55 has two slots on it's base. One for the festool style rail and a very narrow one next to it for their own tracks.


----------



## Calidecks

BBuild said:


> Negative. The raised part of the Mafell track is very narrow. The mt55 has two slots on it's base. One for the festool style rail and a very narrow one next to it for their own tracks.
> 
> View attachment 131818


So all my festool tracks will work with that mt55? How's it compare in size? Is it closer to the ts55 or the ts75?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Inner10 said:


> Craig said the same thing about the TS55 lacking balls.



Maybe so. I personally am quite pleased with it. With the proper blade that is clean and sharp, it has not failed to deliver great results.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Inner10 said:


> Those are real woods...


Yeah, I don't even notice its cutting when cutting pvc.


----------



## Calidecks

I cut tons of composite and it's lacking balls. It actually gets hot. The Makita has better power.


----------



## Calidecks

I have both saws.


----------



## Tom M

The first I felt after using my TS55 was wow it labors, smooth, nice tool but labors


----------



## BBuild

Californiadecks said:


> So all my festool tracks will work with that mt55? How's it compare in size? Is it closer to the ts55 or the ts75?


Yes I would think it would work with Makita rails also. It uses the same size blade as the ts55 with 2mm more cut depth.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

The only time my my TS55 had a issue was cutting 2" thick hard maple rips. Used the 75 and it went through it like butter.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



Californiadecks said:


> I cut tons of composite and it's lacking balls. It actually gets hot. The Makita has better power.



I have experienced the same but it is only when my dust extractor isn't plugged directly into an outlet. Other than that I've never bogged my 55 down.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I have experienced the same but it is only when my dust extractor isn't plugged directly into an outlet. Other than that I've never bogged my 55 down.



I notice that when I run an extension to my trailer with a cord from real to trailer then a cord from trailer to splitter then from splinter to vacuum and then vacuum to tool. There's a massive difference in output for sure. The only way to get full power is run vac straight to outlet.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I think thats why they put a 20' cord on the CT's.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I think thats why they put a 20' cord on the CT's.



The cords stupid thick 2 which prob helps a bunch on that long length.


----------



## David7586

Californiadecks said:


> So all my festool tracks will work with that mt55? How's it compare in size? Is it closer to the ts55 or the ts75?



I believe I read somewhere that the mafell rail is thicker or thinner than the festool. This means that when beveling the saw the blade will not rest against the anti splinter strip or may actually cut more off when using a festool guide rail. Not too big of a deal, but for $800 I'd want all the features to work.


----------



## icerock drywall

this sucks I need to spend 1800 on a sander...I need to do it soon:sad:...................I miss my old sander so so much


----------



## Calidecks

David7586 said:


> I believe I read somewhere that the mafell rail is thicker or thinner than the festool. This means that when beveling the saw the blade will not rest against the anti splinter strip or may actually cut more off when using a festool guide rail. Not too big of a deal, but for $800 I'd want all the features to work.


I've never needed the bevel. Pretty much only need the saw for seam boards and parameter boards, which are straight. Sometimes ply but not often.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> The cords stupid thick 2 which prob helps a bunch on that long length.


It's 12 ga.


----------



## David7586

Californiadecks said:


> I've never needed the bevel. Pretty much only need the saw for seam boards and parameter boards, which are straight. Sometimes ply but not often.



I don't remember reading why you're selling off your ts55. Why the change? Why not the makita which sits in between the ts55r and ts75 in terms of power?


----------



## Calidecks

David7586 said:


> I don't remember reading why you're selling off your ts55. Why the change? Why not the makita which sits in between the ts55r and ts75 in terms of power?


The only reason I would get the Mafell is the quality. I have a Makita, and it has good power. I'm still debating, 

That ts55 will be go to the highest bidder. It's less than a year old. If I decide to sell.


----------



## [email protected]

Californiadecks said:


> The only reason I would get the Mafell is the quality. I have a Makita, and it has good power. I'm still debating,
> 
> That ts55 will be go to the highest bidder. It's less than a year old. If I decide to sell.


Just get a TS75, lets all face it even the best tools develop problems over time and need to be serviced and if you live in the US and your Mafell Develops issues your screwed!

Thats the only reason I wouldn't buy a Mafell, I believe they are exceptional tools but until they come across the pond and set up shop ready to sell and service their tools I'm not buying...

If Festool didn't warranty and service tools the way they do I wouldn't buy them either


----------



## Calidecks

[email protected] said:


> Just get a TS75, lets all face it even the best tools develop problems over time and need to be serviced and if you live in the US and your Mafell Develops issues your screwed!
> 
> Thats the only reason I wouldn't buy a Mafell, I believe they are exceptional tools but until they come across the pond and set up shop ready to sell and service their tools I'm not buying...
> 
> If Festool didn't warranty and service tools the way they do I wouldn't buy them either


I've only had one experience with festools service (that was today) and it was chit, to say the least. You won't sell me quite yet on thier service.


----------



## Calidecks

The Mafell is just a cut above all of them. 

Mafell MT55 Demonstration.: http://youtu.be/POprMeRfDXE


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

john5mt said:


> Yes my replacement fell promptly off after putting it on. Going to try some makitas


Mine has never come off, it just slowly works it's way up as it makes repeated contact with a flat hard surface.

Never really thought much about it.

Now that I am thinking about it......It sits in the same position regardless of stock thickness, so why is it even adjustable? (I am sure those Germans have a very good reason for it though)


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

So if it gets chewed up you can reset it a time or two. 

I had one strip that would come loose on the ends. The old black ones never loosened up.


----------



## overanalyze

I replaced our long one with the black Dewalt strip. Make sure to clean the old adhesive with laquer thinner or alcohol. Also make sure the rail isn't cold.


----------



## aaron_a

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Mine has never come off, it just slowly works it's way up as it makes repeated contact with a flat hard surface.
> 
> Never really thought much about it.
> 
> Now that I am thinking about it......It sits in the same position regardless of stock thickness, so why is it even adjustable? (I am sure those Germans have a very good reason for it though)


mine always works it's way up too. I'll usually keep a sys1 or sys2 ontop of my ct while I'm running the saw. I'll try to make sure to set the saw down so the guard rests in the well for the systainer handle. Otherwise I'll use the green one that screws in.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

aaron_a said:


> mine always works it's way up too. I'll usually keep a sys1 or sys2 ontop of my ct while I'm running the saw. I'll try to make sure to set the saw down so the guard rests in the well for the systainer handle. Otherwise I'll use the green one that screws in.


Exactly what I do.

Just out in the shop and realized why it needed adjustment capability....has to lay down for miters.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Some of you are talking about the splinter guard and some about the splinter strip.

On the Req, the clear guard comes up if set on a flat surface. They are more for dust collection though I believe as they aren't actually putting pressure on the material. The green one is the splinter guard and its screwed in so it will stay put even if you set it on a flat surface.

My splinter strips on all my rails have done fine. Moved them over on a hot day by leaving them in the sun, still stick fine.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Some of you are talking about the splinter guard and some about the splinter strip.
> 
> On the Req, the clear guard comes up if set on a flat surface. They are more for dust collection though I believe as they aren't actually putting pressure on the material. The green one is the splinter guard and its screwed in so it will stay put even if you set it on a flat surface.
> 
> My splinter strips on all my rails have done fine. Moved them over on a hot day by leaving them in the sun, still stick fine.


Splinter strips.......

I have never moved mine.

Glad to know that I can.

(I just replace them.......4 rails including the longy one....ouch$$)


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Splinter strips.......
> 
> 
> 
> I have never moved mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to know that I can.
> 
> 
> 
> (I just replace them.......4 rails including the longy one....ouch$$)





Very easy to move. Like I said, hot day. Laid them in the driveway for about 30 minutes. Went out, moved them over, took them in the garage and let them cool down. Worked great.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Very easy to move. Like I said, hot day. Laid them in the driveway for about 30 minutes. Went out, moved them over, took them in the garage and let them cool down. Worked great.


This is the problem, they are to easily moved. I work consistently in the hot sun. I don't want them to move easily. I'm going to try the Makita "strips".


----------



## Johnny_5

Mike, anything new with the Kapex? Have they explained why they didn't fix it?


----------



## Calidecks

Johnny_5 said:


> Mike, anything new with the Kapex? Have they explained why they didn't fix it?


No not yet, it's on its way back. I understand if it was a misunderstanding, I don't tolerate not even looking at my paperwork, which has to be the case, because it was very clear what I wanted done.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Very easy to move. Like I said, hot day. Laid them in the driveway for about 30 minutes. Went out, moved them over, took them in the garage and let them cool down. Worked great.


Oh cool...

Just wait five months.:laughing:


----------



## john5mt

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Any one tried these blades?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121515924212?lpid=82&chn=ps

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121516794838?lpid=82&chn=ps


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Oh cool...
> 
> 
> 
> Just wait five months.:laughing:



Hair dryer? Heat gun?


----------



## Johnny_5

Californiadecks said:


> No not yet, it's on its way back. I understand if it was a misunderstanding, I don't tolerate not even looking at my paperwork, which has to be the case, because it was very clear what I wanted done.


Hopefully they step up and replace the parts no charge to apologize for the phuck up.

Sent mine in on Saturday. Spoke to a service tech and the service manager on Friday. At first they tried telling me that the center section is supposed to be lower by design. It's "floating" and "self leveling" etc, and that is why they don't have to machine the deck like the other manufacturers. Huh??????? So you're telling me you set the deck low to eliminate machining processes (read as save money) that every other manufacturer feels is necessary and still charge me 3 times the cost? Yup. If the dust collection wasn't so great, and a huge part of the reason I bought this saw, it would go back.

But, after I explained to him that it wasn't only low, but it was a heavy mm low (about .042") and the side tables were slanted toward the center at a 1/2* angle, he said that sounded a little excessive and that I should send it in so they could take a look at it. We will see what happens, hopefully they can get me a good quality saw for what I paid. Also hope they can fix this one, as it was nicely adjusted last time it was in for all the other problems. I don't want to exchange only to find out the new one has to go back to get the turret loosened and adjust the miter plate. Fingers crossed! :whistling


----------



## Calidecks

Johnny_5 said:


> Hopefully they step up and replace the parts no charge to apologize for the phuck up.
> 
> Sent mine in on Saturday. Spoke to a service tech and the service manager on Friday. At first they tried telling me that the center section is supposed to be lower by design. It's "floating" and "self leveling" etc, and that is why they don't have to machine the deck like the other manufacturers. Huh??????? So you're telling me you set the deck low to eliminate machining processes (read as save money) that every other manufacturer feels is necessary and still charge me 3 times the cost? Yup. If the dust collection wasn't so great, and a huge part of the reason I bought this saw, it would go back.
> 
> But, after I explained to him that it wasn't only low, but it was a heavy mm low (about .042") and the side tables were slanted toward the center at a 1/2* angle, he said that sounded a little excessive and that I should send it in so they could take a look at it. We will see what happens, hopefully they can get me a good quality saw for what I paid. Also hope they can fix this one, as it was nicely adjusted last time it was in for all the other problems. I don't want to exchange only to find out the new one has to go back to get the turret loosened and adjust the miter plate. Fingers crossed! :whistling


Well good luck with that. It wouldn't surprise me if they sent it back with a new cord and said we fixed it for you. :laughing:


----------



## Johnny_5

john5mt said:


> Any one tried these blades?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121515924212?lpid=82&chn=ps
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121516794838?lpid=82&chn=ps


Haven't used them, but at that price, might be worth trying.

....that "trend" logo looks suspiciously like the Freud logo....


----------



## Calidecks

Johnny_5 said:


> Haven't used them, but at that price, might be worth trying.
> 
> ....that "trend" logo looks suspiciously like the Freud logo....


They are from the uk.


----------



## JFM constr

J L said:


> Straight line ripping mahogany or maple or walnut with the TS55 is definitely too much for it. One or two cuts, it's fine. But every time I do a stack of boards I get about 6 cuts in and it gets smoking hot and goes into a some protection mode where it barely spins so you have to wait for it to cool off before you continue. The TS75 is on my wish list.


Ripping is one of those jobs that has smoked many a saw .festool actually has a rip blade but the regular blade or general cutting blade really drags down .just life .I have the old rip blade for my 55 ,the one with the wider kerf .It seems to screw up the rubber strip so i generally just keep the regular blade and cut slowly .wouldn't toss the 55 if you do not have to .you will find the small saw is alot easier to use .


----------



## J L

JFM constr said:


> Ripping is one of those jobs that has smoked many a saw .festool actually has a rip blade but the regular blade or general cutting blade really drags down .just life .I have the old rip blade for my 55 ,the one with the wider kerf .It seems to screw up the rubber strip so i generally just keep the regular blade and cut slowly .wouldn't toss the 55 if you do not have to .you will find the small saw is alot easier to use .


I've got the rip blade as well and don't like 2 things about it. 1- it tears up the splinter guard strip and 2- it doesn't leave a clean cut because there's more blade wobble. So I use my regular blade (28t) and I do go slow but it still overworks the saw after a few cuts.


----------



## tjbnwi

J L said:


> I've got the rip blade as well and don't like 2 things about it. 1- it tears up the splinter guard strip and 2- it doesn't leave a clean cut because there's more blade wobble. So I use my regular blade (28t) and I do go slow but it still overworks the saw after a few cuts.


Have the blade checked. There should be no wobble in the blade. 

Unless it is an older 2.5mm blade it should have no affect on the splinter strip.

I've ripped 8/4 lumber with my 55 and the 48 tooth blade, 2 passes, first at 1" deep second full depth to finish the cut.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

From Mafell

The Mafell MT-55cc has a motor control module that causes the motor to modulate at the lower speeds that would typically be used for cutting materials like plastic or DiBond.* Most customers operate it at the full speed of "6" when cutting wood, and modulating does not come up as an issue.* However, we wanted you to be aware of this feature and not be surprised by it.* When load is placed on the saw when cutting wood, the saw will maintain a constant speed for perfect cutting but it also has the sensitivity to stop the motor in the event of an unlikely jam.* In order to achieve both features, there is a slight modulation of the motor when there is no load on it.* Just so you know, we tested your MT-55cc (just as we test all Mafell tools before they are shipped) and it ran perfectly.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Mike, I think you're a little lost. You clicked on the Festool Fan Club thread not the Mafell Fan Club thread.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Mike, I think you're a little lost. You clicked on the Festool Fan Club thread not the Mafell Fan Club thread.


It's not entirely unrelated. I did sell a ts55 for that saw. 

I would like to know if this feature is on the ts55.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

He would be the only one on there if it was mafell club lol


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> It's not entirely unrelated. I did sell a ts55 for that saw.
> 
> I would like to know if this feature is on the ts55.


Yep most of the festool range have that feature.


----------



## Calidecks

If it is, it could explain the power issue I had. However I always kept it at full speed. But if they had this feature on every speed of the ts55 it might explain the power loss I had. Just a thought.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> It's not entirely unrelated. I did sell a ts55 for that saw.
> 
> I would like to know if this feature is on the ts55.



I was just messing Mike. And yeah, like Barri said, lot of the Festool tools have that as well.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I was just messing Mike. And yeah, like Barri said, lot of the Festool tools have that as well.


I believe they all have MMC electronics.

It constantly pulsates an electronic signal to the motor from the controls, helps maintain a constant cutting speed no matter how the operator is using the saw. This also monitors the motor tempature and its what gives their tools that bevel gear growl. 

It is explained in all the literature, manuals, catalogs, websites, etc.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I believe they all have MMC electronics.



The CXS doesn't right? Some of the other drills do though? I've only been around Festool for a year so I don't know everything yet.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> The CXS doesn't right? Some of the other drills do though? I've only been around Festool for a year so I don't know everything yet.


It's not brushless, but I believe it does monitor the battery and motor.


----------



## Calidecks

Got the vecturo. The quality is very obvious. Does anyone know where online I can get an adapter that allows me to use any manufacturers blade I want?


----------



## Calidecks

If I can't adapt Bosch blades with this thing it's going back. I'd rather have a cheaper mt that can adapt to anything out there, than this expensive one that limits my blade choices.


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> If I can't adapt Bosch blades with this thing it's going back. I'd rather have a cheaper mt that can adapt to anything out there, than this expensive one that limits my blade choices.


It will accept the Supercut blades and Festool blades but not the MM/Bosch blades. It is another attraction of the MM350 to me.

There is an adapter somewhere but I think it offsets the blade enough the plunge base doesnt make contact with the blade to allow the magnet to hold the blade in place.


----------



## overanalyze

Found this one Mike. Cheap enough to at least try...

http://imperialblades.com/blades/adapters/rockwell-adapter-187.html


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Found this one Mike. Cheap enough to at least try...
> 
> http://imperialblades.com/blades/adapters/rockwell-adapter-187.html


Thanks Over, but I'm almost certain that adapter won't work, just by looking at it.


----------



## overanalyze

Yeah found it on Amazon just now and it doesn't get good reviews. 

So the 350 after all...lol 

I love the Bosch carbide blades. They last forever!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Mike try over on fog. I'm sure others have asked this before. I would be surprised if there's not a adaptor out there or at least one in the works. Might end up being a Seneca type product.


----------



## tjbnwi

This adapter looks made better than the Imperial;

http://www.amazon.com/Arbor-Adapter...keywords=fein+supercut+adapter#productDetails

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> This adapter looks made better than the Imperial;
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Arbor-Adapter...keywords=fein+supercut+adapter#productDetails
> 
> Tom


The leg on the blade holder (that removable piece on the vecturo) is too big to even go into the hole of the Bosch blades. So that adapter won't work for Bosch blades.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Are the Festool blades re-branded Fein?


From what I've read, they are. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

It has always been a consideration of mine with Festools. Their proprietary bits, paper, blades, etc. The tool really has to perform for me to justify always having to order my consumables online.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> It has always been a consideration of mine with Festools. Their proprietary bits, paper, blades, etc. The tool really has to perform for me to justify always having to order my consumables online.


I just stock up on stuff like sandpaper. I'm not a super heavy user of it either. But I feel like if you determine that the tool is worth it, buy the consumables and have them on hand.

Like the bags for example. Tom advised me when I bought them to buy extra bags which I did. He also said when you get down to one, order more.

I don't have any of the bits for my CXS which is the only drill I own.
I like their saw blades, so I use them.

I get what you're saying Andrew, but then at the same time, I prefer getting on a website to buy things anyway. During the day I'm working not shopping. Then sometime between 9:00 - and 1:00 and I can, at my convenience get on whatever website and buy a bunch of stuff and it shows up at my door a few days later. Can't beat that IMO.


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> It has always been a consideration of mine with Festools. Their proprietary bits, paper, blades, etc. The tool really has to perform for me to justify always having to order my consumables online.


Exactly. I can't imaging it being that much better than the Fein 350. I think the difference is 50 watts. They were suppose to of made some really good improvements to the 350 as far as vibration and noise. It was a toss up when I was debating on which one. It would've made my decision much easier had I of known that the blade adapters don't work with the Festool Vecturo.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I just stock up on stuff like sandpaper. I'm not a super heavy user of it either. But I feel like if you determine that the tool is worth it, buy the consumables and have them on hand.
> 
> Like the bags for example. Tom advised me when I bought them to buy extra bags which I did. He also said when you get down to one, order more.
> 
> I don't have any of the bits for my CXS which is the only drill I own.
> I like their saw blades, so I use them.
> 
> I get what you're saying Andrew, but then at the same time, I prefer getting on a website to buy things anyway. During the day I'm working not shopping. Then sometime between 9:00 - and 1:00 and I can, at my convenience get on whatever website and buy a bunch of stuff and it shows up at my door a few days later. Can't beat that IMO.


It's not just that imo it's being limited to one or two consumables, even if you do get them online. With the others you can use everything on the market.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> It has always been a consideration of mine with Festools. Their proprietary bits, paper, blades, etc. The tool really has to perform for me to justify always having to order my consumables online.


There are no proprietary bits that you have to use, you can use any bit in their holder, any drill bit in their keyless chuck. However, if you want the convenience of the centrotec system you can buy any bit, driver or drill bit you want. 

Blades sucked to get at first, now everyone makes blades for their tools. 

I also like the convenience of ordering on line. I get whatever I need on my porch the next day, thanks to bob.


----------



## tjbnwi

Mike, 

Use the Vecturo. Festool wants you to do that. Hell use it for 29 days then return it if you don't like it. That's what the 30 days is for. I'm going to ask Tom, I'm pretty sure they return the returns to Festool.

I do have the Vecturo, cuts faster and better than any other multi tool I have owned or used. That includes a newer Super Cut.

Blades appear to last longer than MM blades, including the Bosch blades which were all I used on my MM.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> From what I've read, they are.
> 
> Tom


I believe they are all made by leitz. There are some that festool designed specifically for the plunge base, the blades with the flare outs on the ends.


----------



## overanalyze

WarnerConstInc. said:


> There are no proprietary bits that you have to use, you can use any bit in their holder, any drill bit in their keyless chuck. However, if you want the convenience of the centrotec system you can buy any bit, driver or drill bit you want.
> 
> Blades sucked to get at first, now everyone makes blades for their tools.
> 
> I also like the convenience of ordering on line. I get whatever I need on my porch the next day, thanks to bob.


I am a fan of Festool and own quite a bit. The ones I have I love and use. Merely stating that when I look at purchasing one there are multiple factors that I consider.

I think their sandpaper is top quality and decently priced. The blades are getting more choices.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> Mike,
> 
> Use the Vecturo. Festool wants you to do that. Hell use it for 29 days then return it if you don't like it. That's what the 30 days is for. I'm going to ask Tom, I'm pretty sure they return the returns to Festool.
> 
> I do have the Vecturo, cuts faster and better than any other multi tool I have owned or used. That includes a newer Super Cut.
> 
> Blades appear to last longer than MM blades, including the Bosch blades which were all I used on my MM.
> 
> Tom


It has some ass for sure, it was actually a little surprising the first few times i used it. 

It plunged through 3/4" oak and ply like it wasn't even there. 

Everyone that i have let use it said the same thing.


----------



## mgb

Regarding centrotec bits. I've converted 3 standard bits over. Just knock the edges off the hex portion. Grind a groove where the centrotec bearings grasp.

You might say a waste of time, but it only takes 5min's, and lets you use bits that festool may not produce.


----------



## Deckhead

Im going to my guy tomorrow who has the brand new multimaster, supercut, and vecturo on display that he'll let me demo. Im going to try all 3 and will report back.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It has some ass for sure, it was actually a little surprising the first few times i used it.
> 
> It plunged through 3/4" oak and ply like it wasn't even there.
> 
> Everyone that i have let use it said the same thing.


I was told Leitz will sharpen multi tool blades. I'll have to send them one with my next shipment and see what happens.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Looks like the Kapex and accessories for it are this years 10% off promotion.

Last year it was the Domino.

Tom


----------



## skillman

tjbnwi said:


> Looks like the Kapex and accessories for it are this years 10% off promotion.
> 
> Last year it was the Domino.
> 
> Tom



You add the CT vacuum with it as a package deal that's a pretty good deal .


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> I was told Leitz will sharpen multi tool blades. I'll have to send them one with my next shipment and see what happens.
> 
> Tom


I dont think it would be much different then setting and filing to teeth on a hand saw.


----------



## Calidecks

My lumberyard doesn't sell the Supercut therefore they don't sell the blades. When I left, the company buyer was on the phone with his distributer. He said he can't sell the Vecturo if they don't sell any blades that fit it. So not sure if the vecturo will stay on thier shelf or not. By the time I left there were a couple of the managers involved.

Non the less mines going back. To bad because the tool looks to be a great tool.


----------



## J L

I've got the new Fein 350. I wanted the Vecturo but my old bosch MM died and I had another job where I needed one before the Vecturo went on sale. The Fein is super smooth so there's very minimal vibrations when you're holding it.


----------



## m1911

I have a Fein MM. I just bought a Rockwell Sonicrafter that has a universal bit clamp that supposedly fits nearly all other brands blades. So far I'm impressed with the power and quality of this tool.


----------



## Calidecks

m1911 said:


> I have a Fein MM. I just bought a Rockwell Sonicrafter that has a universal bit clamp that supposedly fits nearly all other brands blades. So far I'm impressed with the power and quality of this tool.


Ganahl sells the vecturo but not any blades to go with it. Not even the Supercut blades. They didn't even know it. I'm going with the Fein 350. I haven't heard one bad thing about it, let alone I could buy two for the price of that vecturo.


----------



## m1911

Californiadecks said:


> Ganahl sells the vecturo but not any blades to go with it. Not even the Supercut blades. They didn't even know it. I'm going with the Fein 350. I haven't heard one bad thing about it, let alone I could buy two for the price of that vecturo.


I like to be able get blades locally in the middle of a job. I do order lots of chit online, but sometimes you use up your last 5-1/2" trim saw blade, and need one today! :whistling


----------



## Calidecks

m1911 said:


> I like to be able get blades locally in the middle of a job. I do order lots of chit online, but sometimes you use up your last 5-1/2" trim saw blade, and need one today! :whistling


Exactly, I am not one to be locked down by a companies proprietary crap.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

No dealer within 2 hours of me, i have been ordering on line since wood craft left 5 years ago. 

No big deal.


----------



## Calidecks

I got it free with American Express rewards points.


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> I got it free with American Express rewards points.


Hows it cut?


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Hows it cut?


Haven't tried it yet,. Too busy playing with the Mafell track saw. :laughing:


----------



## overanalyze

Damn Mike...they're gonna kick you out of the club for talking about all those non-festies...lol!


----------



## Calidecks

Just tested the festool blade, freud, Makita, tenyru and the mafell. All 28t except the mafell which I only had the 48. But hands down the Tenyru cut much better and smoother in composites than all the others. Surprising the mafell 48 is my second choice. The good news is the Tenyru is the cheapest one of all at under 35 bucks I'm going to order a few more.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Mike do a side by side of the festool and Mafell. Curious see see how much faster it cuts. 

Anything else you like about it over the TS55 other than power?


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Mike do a side by side of the festool and Mafell. Curious see see how much faster it cuts.
> 
> Anything else you like about it over the TS55 other than power?


I just did a side by side using the same blade. The power difference was very noticeable. The ts55 just struggled. I cut through 2 pieces of 3/4 composite. The other surprising difference was the mafell dust extraction worked better. However it might be because there is no blade changing hole in it.

This may seem like a small thing but I really liked the way the dust extraction port "clicked into several different positions. It held the hose up from dragging on the rails or the material. 

The saw just screams quality. IMO if you don't need the cut depth, it's a better alternative to the ts75 simply because of it's size. It's certainly a better saw than the ts55. The price is the only negative I can think of. I will have a better opinion after using it in the field.


----------



## Calidecks

Here's a 10-1/4" Tenyru blade I'm thinking of getting bored for the Kapex. The price is good too.

It says it has a 5/8" KO Arbor. Just curious as to what the size is after the ko.

http://tenryusawblades.com/product.php?productid=17815&cat=471&page=1


----------



## rrk

overanalyze said:


> Damn Mike...they're gonna kick you out of the club for talking about all those non-festies...lol!


Barri is doing the paperwork right now :laughing:


----------



## overanalyze

I have been very happy with my Tenryu ripping blade for my TS55. How much does it cost to get a blade bored?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Just tested the festool blade, freud, Makita, tenyru and the mafell. All 28t except the mafell which I only had the 48. But hands down the Tenyru cut much better and smoother in composites than all the others. Surprising the mafell 48 is my second choice. The good news is the Tenyru is the cheapest one of all at under 35 bucks I'm going to order a few more.


what's the saw? Fest?


----------



## overanalyze

CITY DECKS INC said:


> what's the saw? Fest?


Mafell


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Just tested the festool blade, freud, Makita, tenyru and the mafell. All 28t except the mafell which I only had the 48. But hands down the Tenyru cut much better and smoother in composites than all the others. Surprising the mafell 48 is my second choice. The good news is the Tenyru is the cheapest one of all at under 35 bucks I'm going to order a few more.


mafelli saw fits fest track? right? they are so friggin expensive.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> mafelli saw fits fest track? right? they are so friggin expensive.


I was debating on getting a ts75 for more power. But that Mafell was only about 100 bucks more. It's just an awesome saw.

It not only fit the fest tracks I didn't even need to adjust the splinter strip.


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> I have been very happy with my Tenryu ripping blade for my TS55. How much does it cost to get a blade bored?


7 dollars, I have a Leitz guy pick them up from my house. Thier sharpening service is awesome.

Although the ts55 28t blades don't need bored


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> I just did a side by side using the same blade. The power difference was very noticeable. The ts55 just struggled. I cut through 2 pieces of 3/4 composite. The other surprising difference was the mafell dust extraction worked better. However it might be because there is no blade changing hole in it.
> 
> This may seem like a small thing but I really liked the way the dust extraction port "clicked into several different positions. It held the hose up from dragging on the rails or the material.
> 
> The saw just screams quality. IMO if you don't need the cut depth, it's a better alternative to the ts75 simply because of it's size. It's certainly a better saw than the ts55. The price is the only negative I can think of. I will have a better opinion after using it in the field.



I have always put tape over the blade change whole. Never have understood the reason for not Making some kind of clip in plate that slots in there. Makes a big difference to the dust extraction. 

My vac hose bit on the saw is stiff as crap on my 55. I takes some effort to twist mine. But my 75 one is nice and lose. 

Love my 75 but rarely use it on the track. Stays in the table saw until I need it on thick material.


----------



## Calidecks

I wouldn't want to use the 75 on the track because of it's size, but I almost elected to buy that one just to get the extra power. But I'm glad I got the Mafell mt55cc instead, for what I mainly use a tracksaw for, the power coupled with the smaller size is perfect for me. 

I remember everytime I cut a deck with that ts55 it was very disappointing knowing I spent 600 bucks on a saw that bogged down on me. I would rather spend 840 bucks on a saw that has all the power I need. After reading on here it seems as though I'm not the only one that feels like the ts55 is short on power.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> I was debating on getting a ts75 for more power. But that Mafell was only about 100 bucks more. It's just an awesome saw.
> 
> It not only fit the fest tracks I didn't even need to adjust the splinter strip.


Thats impressive of maff. I thought you had makita plunge? I have 2. Cut everything with them there strong no problems. There amazing with fresh blade. I Buy the oshula on amazon about $20 -/+ also Just picked up to oshula 80t from amazon for about $40 each. 
I was thinking picking up of the ts75 larger cutting capacity. I have have quite a few reclaimed 3xs' timber to cut up. fro decks and dinning tables. come to think of it about 4. My name is city decks and I get more interior and custom stuff build stuff to build then the custom build guys. :clap::clap::clap:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> I wouldn't want to use the 75 on the track because of it's size, but I almost elected to buy that one just to get the extra power. But I'm glad I got the Mafell mt55cc instead, for what I mainly use a tracksaw for, the power coupled with the smaller size is perfect for me.
> 
> I remember everytime I cut a deck with that ts55 it was very disappointing knowing I spent 600 bucks on a saw that bogged down on me. I would rather spend 840 bucks on a saw that has all the power I need. After reading on here it seems as though I'm not the only one that feels like the ts55 is short on power.



The thing is the TS55 works great on 90% of what it's designed to cut. If they made it as powerful as the Mafell then they wouldn't sell hardly any TS75's. 

I had to buy the 75 to cut that hard maple counter as my 55 couldnt handle it. The 75 went through it like butter though. That's why it made sense to have the table saw as it's very rare I will have to use the 75 on a track. 

I will have to try cutting composite one day just to see what the fuss is about.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

There's no fuss, it cuts it fine... Lol. At least it did for me. But if Mike isn't as happy and that's all he does. Makes sense to get something different.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> There's no fuss, it cuts it fine... Lol. At least it did for me. But if Mike isn't as happy and that's all he does. Makes sense to get something different.


I think because I went from the Makita to the ts55, expecting it to at least perform as well. You can cut composite all day long with the ts55 and probably never realize what I'm taking about until you've used a more powerful saw. Then you realize it's lacking. Perhaps I never would've had a beef with the ts55 had I never used a cheaper saw that performed better. 

Bottom line, the ts55 is no doubt a great saw. If a composite deck was something I only did once a year or even less it would meet all my needs. Because composites are the bulk of my work it makes sense to have the best saw for the job. I don't mind spending 200 dollars more for it, even if it's just a little better. To me 200 dollars is just a little more.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Thats impressive of maff. I thought you had makita plunge? I have 2. Cut everything with them there strong no problems. There amazing with fresh blade. I Buy the oshula on amazon about $20 -/+ also Just picked up to oshula 80t from amazon for about $40 each.
> I was thinking picking up of the ts75 larger cutting capacity. I have have quite a few reclaimed 3xs' timber to cut up. fro decks and dinning tables. come to think of it about 4. My name is city decks and I get more interior and custom stuff build stuff to build then the custom build guys. :clap::clap::clap:


I would've been happy with the Makita they have plenty of power, and I still have one that's being used by my mobilehome deck crew. The Mafell was strictly for quality and because I can. Oh and I can't forget tool petting. :laughing:


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> I think because I went from the Makita to the ts55, expecting it to at least perform as well. You can cut composite all day long with the ts55 and probably never realize what I'm taking about until you've used a more powerful saw. Then you realize it's lacking. Perhaps I never would've had a beef with the ts55 had I never used a cheaper saw that performed better.
> 
> Bottom line, the ts55 is no doubt a great saw. If a composite deck was something I only did once a year or even less it would meet all my needs. Because composites are the bulk of my work it makes sense to have the best saw for the job. I don't mind spending 200 dollars more for it, even if it's just a little better. To me 200 dollars is just a little more.



Totally agree. 90% of what I cut with it are sheet good typically 3/4" thick. I could cut the composite fast enough to suit me. Honestly I could do 20 a year and wouldn't switch. I don't need to run while I'm cutting. Lol.

But it does awesome for what I use it for. Glad the Mafell is gonna work well for you.


----------



## JFM constr

when i got my 1st track saw all i knew was festool . really wanted one of the other mafelle saw style's . they are just a tool to admire .such quality . yet to have enough work or the situation to justify it .really appreciate your sharing your experience . might yet .maybe instead of new bandsaw i could get there jigsaw .impressive tools


----------



## Calidecks

I just found a saw that meets my needs a little better than the ts55 did. I realize it's expensive and if I was just starting out I probably wouldn't of sprang for it. But it's ok to treat yourself to a nice tool on occasion, even if there are cheaper alternatives out there. Anyone who owns a festool has to know what I'm talking about.


----------



## Calidecks

JFM constr said:


> when i got my 1st track saw all i knew was festool . really wanted one of the other mafelle saw style's . they are just a tool to admire .such quality . yet to have enough work or the situation to justify it .really appreciate your sharing your experience . might yet .maybe instead of new bandsaw i could get there jigsaw .impressive tools


I used to live in Windsor not to far from you. Right smack in the middle of the vineyards. That was around 1989.


----------



## country_huck

Bc,

how do you like ts75 in the table saw configuration. Do you find it easier to set up and use over a regular table saw, quicker?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

country_huck said:


> Bc,
> 
> how do you like ts75 in the table saw configuration. Do you find it easier to set up and use over a regular table saw, quicker?


Depends how its set up. To just cut down fillers/end fills its very simple to set up. Just lift out of trailer and let legs hang down like you do on the MFT then you good to go. 

If i am doing stuff wider than 3-4" i will get the side extension table out which sits with the saw and takes about 30-40 seconds to attach. 

Without doubt the best job site table saw setup i have ever used. As you prob seen it can also be used with the sliding table if need be but there's only been a couple of times i needed to do that. 

And of course its a router table when i need it to be.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Plus its a damn cool looking bit of kit :laughing:


----------



## Roofcheck

It looks like it might tip over. Nobody has one around me to look at, and for obvious reasons (You have your track saws) so maybe you wouldn't put it through ripping sheet goods. 

How much does it set you back with the saw fully equiped like you showed in your photo?


----------



## country_huck

BCConstruction said:


> Depends how its set up. To just cut down fillers/end fills its very simple to set up. Just lift out of trailer and let legs hang down like you do on the MFT then you good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> If i am doing stuff wider than 3-4" i will get the side extension table out which sits with the saw and takes about 30-40 seconds to attach.
> 
> 
> 
> Without doubt the best job site table saw setup i have ever used. As you prob seen it can also be used with the sliding table if need be but there's only been a couple of times i needed to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> And of course its a router table when i need it to be.



Ok a couple more questions, what is the max cut with the extensions. How easy is it to switch between the router base and the saw base. Can you leave the saw in with it all folded up.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

country_huck said:


> Ok a couple more questions, what is the max cut with the extensions. How easy is it to switch between the router base and the saw base. Can you leave the saw in with it all folded up.


Just switch plates, tool stays in plate. Yes, tool stays in plate with legs folded.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Pretty stable unless of course your trying to cut sheet good on your own. If I did attempt that I would use my MFT's for support front and back but never gonna rip sheet good in it. 

As Darcy says the insert with the ts75 can stay in it and to switch inserts takes all of 20seconds. I really don't use it as a router table as I have 2 other router setups I can use but it's handy to incase I need a 3rd on site.


----------



## Roofcheck

Total cost?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Roofcheck said:


> Total cost?



$1700 for the table 
$800 for the saw
And I think about $800 for the UK table parts without shipping. 

So about $3300 without the router but I already have the router.


----------



## Tom M

For that money I can see why you use it as a kitchenette too.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

If I could I would leave it setup in the house 24/7 as I think it looks so cool. Wife prob wouldn't be too happy about that though lol


----------



## brhokel606

Just got an email today that the Kapex will be 10% off in Feburary...now to find the money.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yeah that's a good time to buy it when it's 10% off.


----------



## aaron_a

brhokel606 said:


> Just got an email today that the Kapex will be 10% off in Feburary...now to find the money.


Why can't they wait until spring or summer when I'm flush? Id really love to relegate my bosch to the shop and get a kapex to keep in the van.


----------



## TimelessQuality

aaron_a said:


> Why can't they wait until spring or summer when I'm flush? Id really love to relegate my bosch to the shop and get a kapex to keep in the van.



Cause In the summer, everyone's flush and buying... No need to stimulate sales then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom M

So does any use thier RO sanders to polish? How about clean? Do they makes surface scrubbing attachments?


----------



## Tylerwalker32

So I noticed my festool midi didn't have the best auction as I was using it on a job today. I just replaced the bag recently. What could be the cause?


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> So does any use thier RO sanders to polish? How about clean? Do they makes surface scrubbing attachments?


Yes, yes, yes.

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/sanders?compatibility=571782&page=1

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Tylerwalker32 said:


> So I noticed my festool midi didn't have the best auction as I was using it on a job today. I just replaced the bag recently. What could be the cause?


Did you check the suction setting dial? Have you checked to make sure the bag has not filled up since the last change. 

Checked it without the hose? Check the entry elbow for a blockage.

What have you been using it for since the last bag change?

Open the CT, smack the bag, try the CT again. If it's better, change the bag.

Tom


----------



## JFM constr

Tylerwalker32 said:


> So I noticed my festool midi didn't have the best auction as I was using it on a job today. I just replaced the bag recently. What could be the cause?


let us know what you find .my vote is plugged hose . those little hoses can plug up good .


----------



## Tylerwalker32

tjbnwi said:


> Did you check the suction setting dial? Have you checked to make sure the bag has not filled up since the last change.
> 
> 
> 
> Checked it without the hose? Check the entry elbow for a blockage.
> 
> 
> 
> What have you been using it for since the last bag change?
> 
> 
> 
> Open the CT, smack the bag, try the CT again. If it's better, change the bag.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Check the hose, nothing there, suction dial turned all the way up, and opened it up and the bag is barely full. I have been using it to do minor clean up some remodels. I'm thinking the hepa filter in it, I have t cleaned it since owning the vac 4 years old. It doesn't look dirty but idk.


----------



## J L

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Check the hose, nothing there, suction dial turned all the way up, and opened it up and the bag is barely full. I have been using it to do minor clean up some remodels. I'm thinking the hepa filter in it, I have t cleaned it since owning the vac 4 years old. It doesn't look dirty but idk.


Remove the hose. Is there any suction at the intake hole?


----------



## tjbnwi

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Check the hose, nothing there, suction dial turned all the way up, and opened it up and the bag is barely full. I have been using it to do minor clean up some remodels. I'm thinking the hepa filter in it, I have t cleaned it since owning the vac 4 years old. It doesn't look dirty but idk.


Like I said, smack the bag, fine dust may have clogged the pores.

Run the unit with the bag without the filter, see how it works. If it's okay, clean or replace the filter.

As R L stated check the unit without a hose.

Tom


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Great thanks guys. I'll give all this a try this afternoon.


----------



## J L

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Great thanks guys. I'll give all this a try this afternoon.


Well....?


----------



## CrpntrFrk

brhokel606 said:


> Just got an email today that the Kapex will be 10% off in Feburary...now to find the money.


Mine will ship out Monday.


----------



## Brian Peters

CrpntrFrk said:


> Mine will ship out Monday.


You will love it!


----------



## J L

Just picked up a like new MFT, Rotex 125, and a gecko suction cup track holder. 

Also, a heads up on the gecko, it looks like it's on sale/clearance from a few places online for $26.


----------



## Tom M

I hope they add a delta head on the RO125 so you can get into corners. The 90dx is just to small


----------



## Johnny_5

Is the RO 125 aggressive enough for coping/scribing? I know the RAS is probably the best suited for that stuff, but the RAS would just be a one trick pony for me. If the Rotex is decent enough, it'd be nice to also be able to use it for other sanding tasks as well.

And just to update, the Kapex came back to me with a nice flat base. The 1mm dip in the middle is gone, and the side tables are flat. It doesn't appear that they replaced the base, the paperwork just says I got a new spacer brush and leg spring, whatever those are. It'd be nice if they sent a little more detail about the repair, very vague. Plus they sent me someone else's beat up chitty looking box.  Anyway, it's back and it's fixed!:thumbup:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Johnny_5 said:


> Is the RO 125 aggressive enough for coping/scribing? I know the RAS is probably the best suited for that stuff, but the RAS would just be a one trick pony for me. If the Rotex is decent enough, it'd be nice to also be able to use it for other sanding tasks as well.
> 
> And just to update, the Kapex came back to me with a nice flat base. The 1mm dip in the middle is gone, and the side tables are flat. It doesn't appear that they replaced the base, the paperwork just says I got a new spacer brush and leg spring, whatever those are. It'd be nice if they sent a little more detail about the repair, very vague. Plus they sent me someone else's beat up chitty looking box.  Anyway, it's back and it's fixed!:thumbup:



They did what I told you to do. Loosen the table bolt an add a shim. 

I backed the bolt on mine off a touch to make the table swing fast.


----------



## Calidecks

Explains why I have trouble. It gets up to 110 degrees here in the summer.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yeah we don't get that hot here. Plus most times they used in summer I'm under my canopy's in the shade working with a bunch of fans blowing on me.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Yeah we don't get that hot here. Plus most times they used in summer I'm under my canopy's in the shade working with a bunch of fans blowing on me.


Fanboy? :laughing:


----------



## MDjim

I'm only a few hours north of bcc. We get 100 deg on a regular basis. With high humidity. But I work out of a cube van with a fiberglass roof. So it seems like the high temp in the truck makes them sag


----------



## JFM constr

well -thats good info .never occurred to me heat would loosen the glue but it makes sense .


----------



## MDjim

JFM constr said:


> well -thats good info .never occurred to me heat would loosen the glue but it makes sense .



It's usually only the first few inches on either end. I've only replaced the strips on my two tracks once in 2 years.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Mine used to peel all the time on my long rail.


----------



## john5mt

I like the way that mafell track looks


----------



## overanalyze

Tylerwalker32 said:


> Mine used to peel all the time on my long rail.


Same here. I used some 3m 300 VHB and it hasn't come loose since.


----------



## Calidecks

FWIW THE Makita tape sticks much better.


----------



## brhokel606

overanalyze said:


> Same here. I used some 3m 300 VHB and it hasn't come loose since.


Where did you get that tape? I have already had problems on the edges with that coming loose. Also is there a trick to getting the rails set as far as cutting the first bit. I have noticed even after I got my saw set on the rail that it seems to be the last couple inches the saw has somehow nicked the edge and it is not true anymore.


----------



## john5mt

brhokel606 said:


> Where did you get that tape? I have already had problems on the edges with that coming loose. Also is there a trick to getting the rails set as far as cutting the first bit. I have noticed even after I got my saw set on the rail that it seems to be the last couple inches the saw has somehow nicked the edge and it is not true anymore.


Amazon.com


----------



## Calidecks

brhokel606 said:


> Where did you get that tape? I have already had problems on the edges with that coming loose. Also is there a trick to getting the rails set as far as cutting the first bit. I have noticed even after I got my saw set on the rail that it seems to be the last couple inches the saw has somehow nicked the edge and it is not true anymore.


If your not careful to not let the saw fishtail when you push it through the rail on the ends it has a tendency to hit the tape. Although that's easier said sometimes then done.


----------



## tjbnwi

brhokel606 said:


> Where did you get that tape? I have already had problems on the edges with that coming loose. Also is there a trick to getting the rails set as far as cutting the first bit. I have noticed even after I got my saw set on the rail that it seems to be the last couple inches the saw has somehow nicked the edge and it is not true anymore.


Easiest way is to join two rails.

Set the rail so that both gibs are on the rail at the start, exit is not as critical.

The tape from window insulator kits works on the strip and the tables on the classic Sustainers.

Tom


----------



## MDjim

Think I'm going to pick up the mft kapex this month during the sale. Then probably make some wings using my crown stops. I'm just tired of using the folding dewalt stand. 

Anyone using the mft? The ug is nice, but it would take up to much space in my truck


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

The MFT kapex is the better option in my opinion. It can hang on a wall and take up hardly any room and can be used as a Separate work top when needed.


----------



## MDjim

BCConstruction said:


> The MFT kapex is the better option in my opinion. It can hang on a wall and take up hardly any room and can be used as a Separate work top when needed.



Yeah the ug really isn't even an option for me. I work out of a cube van, and have an open cabinet built that holds the kapex, ct, table saw, and the 7 1/4 kobalt saw. I can make room to hang the mft somewhere, don't have any room for anything on wheels


----------



## overanalyze

Pick up a Keter work table from Sams club. The one at Sams is even green! $60. We have two of these. They are very quick to setup and lightweight.


----------



## overanalyze

The shelf below is nice for storing the clamp, coping saw, zero clearance fences, etc.


----------



## MDjim

overanalyze said:


> The shelf below is nice for storing the clamp, coping saw, zero clearance fences, etc.



I have a bjs membership (insert joke here). Just like sams and Costco. I might check that out


----------



## overanalyze

WarnerConstInc. said:


> There is already a stripped down version available in Europe, has less cutting depth, hence it being called kapex 88.


Huh, so maybe they are just revamping that model then...


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> Huh, so maybe they are just revamping that model then...


Doubtful. Not a big seller. No lasers, no special cutting position and I believe something else too. 

They have at least one other type of saw available.

I have yet to hear anything about a new miter saw and I have a few pretty good sources.


----------



## brhokel606

CrpntrFrk said:


> I got an email the other day and at the bottom it mentioned some talk of a new Kapex model coming out but it laid the rumor to rest saying they had no plans of a new Kapex model.
> 
> Although.......could you imagine a 7 1/4 Kapex? That sounds pretty cool!


Here is the email I received:

Bruce,

We've been asked if we would ever consider a promotion with the Kapex miter saw. Well, now is your chance to score a great deal on the miter saw you've had on your wish list for a while! End the frustration of dealing with a miter saw that just doesn't make the cut and upgrade to the Kapex today! Be sure to scroll down for several videos of the Kapex and the Kapex UG Miter Saw Stand to see them in action.

During the month of February 2015, we will be offering 10% off instantly with the purchase of the Kapex miter saw and select related accessories. So, even if you already have a Kapex, you can still benefit from savings on items like blades and the Kapex UG Miter Saw Stand.

On the fence? Check out some of our videos featuring the Kapex or visit your local Festool dealer for a demonstration.

Buy with confidence, knowing that Festool's Service All-Inclusive protects your tool investment with a 3-year warranty with free shipping to our service centers and a 30-day money back guarantee.

Are you coming out with a new version of the Kapex? Sometimes customers ask if we are coming out with a new version of a tool when we have a promotion. The answer is no. There are no plans to introduce a new miter saw in the foreseeable future.


----------



## overanalyze

All I have is scuttle on FOG...no reliable sources on my end. Everybody loves a good rumor...lol!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> All I have is scuttle on FOG...no reliable sources on my end. Everybody loves a good rumor...lol!


Like a beauty salon over there.


----------



## LockTalk

Does anyone have the festool edge bander that is listed on their international website? If so what's the price point and how does it work? Any ideas when it will be released in North America?

Is there such places that you can "rent" the kapex saw to try it out or is it one of those things you buy it and have the 30 days to try it out and that's about as much of a "rental" as your gonna get?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

CrpntrFrk said:


> Can I be in your cool club now?



Your close. You just need to get rid of that crappy vac under the kapex and buy a CT then your in


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

LockTalk said:


> Is there such places that you can "rent" the kapex saw to try it out or is it one of those things you buy it and have the 30 days to try it out and that's about as much of a "rental" as your gonna get?


I’ll rent you one of mine for 30 days. $47 per day plus shipping. How long past 30 days do you want it for?

If you want it for less than 30 days - Festool will rent it to you for free.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

The problem is it's highly unlikely he returns it after 30days.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

BCConstruction said:


> The problem is it's highly unlikely he returns it after 30days.


I get 30 days rental up front - enough to buy another :thumbsup:


----------



## tjbnwi

LockTalk said:


> Does anyone have the festool edge bander that is listed on their international website? If so what's the price point and how does it work? Any ideas when it will be released in North America?
> 
> Is there such places that you can "rent" the kapex saw to try it out or is it one of those things you buy it and have the 30 days to try it out and that's about as much of a "rental" as your gonna get?


The Conturo is not available here--yet. There are a few who have imported them for their own use.
I asked to use one last year for a job I was doing, they did not allow me to use it. 

One of the importers listed the cost all in at $6500.00.

Tom


----------



## Jswills76

BCConstruction said:


> Your close. You just need to get rid of that crappy vac under the kapex and buy a CT then your in


I got the kapex last week. Just picked up a ct26 today. So am I in?


----------



## brhokel606

Jswills76 said:


> I got the kapex last week. Just picked up a ct26 today. So am I in?


All I have is the TS55 with 3 rails and assessory kit, my thought is any money spent over 1k means you get a membership.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I've thought of mentioning this before but anybody who has the Dewalt job site table saw, take a sys 4 and set it behind it and it's the perfect outfeed support


----------



## J L

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I've thought of mentioning this before but anybody who has the Dewalt job site table saw, take a sys 4 and set it behind it and it's the perfect outfeed support


Good call. I've used 2. One for infeed and one for outfeed. Works great


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

J L said:


> Good call. I've used 2. One for infeed and one for outfeed. Works great



I've used 3. One infeed, two outfeed.  I just grabbed a tape one day cause I was curious if it would work and it's almost perfect.


----------



## tjbnwi

LockTalk said:


> Does anyone have the festool edge bander that is listed on their international website? If so what's the price point and how does it work? Any ideas when it will be released in North America?
> 
> Is there such places that you can "rent" the kapex saw to try it out or is it one of those things you buy it and have the 30 days to try it out and that's about as much of a "rental" as your gonna get?


A little more info;

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...-conturo-edge-bander/msg372289/?boardseen#new

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Conturo has a delivery date. $3200.00 for the kit. 

They're a year late for me. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I just see that mail. I think I have done edging 3-4x in 10years so that would def be a waste for me but it sure is cool.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Also it does seem an awful lot of money. For that money I can but the kapex and the CMS-GE.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



Kolbym said:


> I've been hemming and hawing about jumping on the green train of bankruptcy for a few weeks now. Finally have a list of my initial purchase and I'm ready to buy because I have a trim job at the end of this week I want to use the kapex and ms55 on...I called Bob Marino but he's backordered through next week, local woodcraft doens't order till next week...anyone have any other recommended dealers to deal with? I'd like to go with Bob because he obviously knew what he was talking about but I also don't want to push my job off...



Amazon?
Cpo festool


----------



## Kolbym

Also, the miter lock on the display Kapex at Woodcraft wasn't working...It was made of plastic and I can only assume it was broken...the detents worked fine but it wouldn't lock outside the detents. Anyone else had this problem? I would think that this wouldn't be an area that Festool would cheap out on...Kind of contradicts the whole "we design the tool and let that dictate the price point, not the other way around."


----------



## Kolbym

Amazon is definitely out...I'm looking for a certain base level of customer service here...I use Amazon all the time but not when I'm looking for service alongside a product.


----------



## overanalyze

FestoolProducts.com or Tom Bellamore of Tool-home will take care of you.


----------



## skillman

Kolbym said:


> Amazon is definitely out...I'm looking for a certain base level of customer service here...I use Amazon all the time but not when I'm looking for service alongside a product.



Toolsforworkingwood 
Toolnut


----------



## MDjim

Kolbym said:


> Also, the miter lock on the display Kapex at Woodcraft wasn't working...It was made of plastic and I can only assume it was broken...the detents worked fine but it wouldn't lock outside the detents. Anyone else had this problem? I would think that this wouldn't be an area that Festool would cheap out on...Kind of contradicts the whole "we design the tool and let that dictate the price point, not the other way around."



No problems with mine, going on 2 years.


----------



## brhokel606

Well, I ordered the Kapex and CT 26 today, will post pics when it comes in. I am trusting all you guys, thats alot of money for a saw and vac!


----------



## Kolbym

brhokel606 said:


> Well, I ordered the Kapex and CT 26 today, will post pics when it comes in. I am trusting all you guys, thats alot of money for a saw and vac!


You and the rest of the country, it looks like...I called 5 places around the country today and they were all out of the Kapex...one guy said they received 60 on Friday and they were all sold out this morning. Guess I'll have to get in line for this one.


----------



## brhokel606

Kolbym said:


> You and the rest of the country, it looks like...I called 5 places around the country today and they were all out of the Kapex...one guy said they received 60 on Friday and they were all sold out this morning. Guess I'll have to get in line for this one.


Where I got mine, they had sold 5 the night before, 6 before me and literally there were 3 of us that bought at sametime, we had all been talking to the rep. Where I got mine said they had 5 coming, so hopefully soon but as long as i got the discount, doesn't really matter when it comes. Well June would tic me off, but otherwise it's all good.


----------



## J.C.

Kolbym said:


> I've been hemming and hawing about jumping on the green train of bankruptcy for a few weeks now. Finally have a list of my initial purchase and I'm ready to buy because I have a trim job at the end of this week I want to use the kapex and ms55 on...I called Bob Marino but he's backordered through next week, local woodcraft doens't order till next week...anyone have any other recommended dealers to deal with? I'd like to go with Bob because he obviously knew what he was talking about but I also don't want to push my job off...


Hartville Tool I've ordered stuff from them before and have never had a problem.


----------



## tjbnwi

Kolbym said:


> I've been hemming and hawing about jumping on the green train of bankruptcy for a few weeks now. Finally have a list of my initial purchase and I'm ready to buy because I have a trim job at the end of this week I want to use the kapex and ms55 on...I called Bob Marino but he's backordered through next week, local woodcraft doens't order till next week...anyone have any other recommended dealers to deal with? I'd like to go with Bob because he obviously knew what he was talking about but I also don't want to push my job off...


I just called my Festool dealer--Tom at Tool-Home, he told me the Kapex is on backorder across the country. If he had one he would have held it for me, but no such luck. 

Please do not purchase your Festool through Amazon. They are the only thing I would not consider through Amazon. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Kolbym said:


> Also, the miter lock on the display Kapex at Woodcraft wasn't working...It was made of plastic and I can only assume it was broken...the detents worked fine but it wouldn't lock outside the detents. Anyone else had this problem? I would think that this wouldn't be an area that Festool would cheap out on...Kind of contradicts the whole "we design the tool and let that dictate the price point, not the other way around."


You have to push down on it, it snaps down pretty hard. 

I rarely lock mine in place.


----------



## CrpntrFrk

tjbnwi said:


> I just called my Festool dealer--Tom at Tool-Home, he told me the Kapex is on backorder across the country. If he had one he would have held it for me, but no such luck.
> 
> Tom


I knew this would happen. That is why when I got the email (about the sale) at around 9 o'clock on January 22nd from Tool Nut, I pre-ordered the Kapex right then and there. Suspense was horrible but I am glad I did it!


----------



## tjbnwi

Kolbym said:


> Also, the miter lock on the display Kapex at Woodcraft wasn't working...It was made of plastic and I can only assume it was broken...the detents worked fine but it wouldn't lock outside the detents. Anyone else had this problem? I would think that this wouldn't be an area that Festool would cheap out on...Kind of contradicts the whole "we design the tool and let that dictate the price point, not the other way around."


As Darcy said, you push down. Very easy to do. I can set to 1/4º using one hand.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

My local woodcraft might have one.


----------



## Rustbucket

m1911 said:


> Cool. I think Costco use to have those. I like to get one as extra work top.



Costco's version is called the Durabench. They often have it on sale for $99. I have both the Vika and the Durabench, and other than color they are identical. I really like them, but they are on the heavy side. Also, if you dent a leg, it's pretty much useless as you won't be able to extend or retract the affected leg. I had one damaged in shipping.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

brhokel606 said:


> I am trusting all you guys, thats alot of money for a saw and vac!


You’re trusting us?  


Barnum said there was one born every minute… :whistling


----------



## tjbnwi

brhokel606 said:


> I am trusting all you guys,


Fool

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

m1911 said:


> Cool. I think Costco use to have those. I like to get one as extra work top.


I have one you can have, if you ever get out around Anaheim Hills.


----------



## Kolbym

BCConstruction said:


> My local woodcraft might have one.


I checked. Sold their last one last week. Not ordering till the end of this week.

They are the one with the model I checked out...Good possibility that I'm a retard but I couldn't get it to lock for anything.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I wish stuff just showed up for nothing


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Just got my CT36 AC back. Not tested it yet but Festool received it Tuesday and I got it back today. That was a quick turn around. they also installed a new filter and hose garage. Looks like brand new again. Only just caught the 3 year cut off though. Will report back once I test it to see if it's fixed the issue.


----------



## BBuild

BCConstruction said:


> Just got my CT36 AC back. Not tested it yet but Festool received it Tuesday and I got it back today. That was a quick turn around. they also installed a new filter and hose garage. Looks like brand new again. Only just caught the 3 year cut off though. Will report back once I test it to see if it's fixed the issue.


What was the issue you were having? I think I recall you saying that it's been sent in before.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yeah it went in before for a really annoying high pitched noise. It was so bad I couldn't be in same room as it but it. Hard to explain the noise. 

Sent it in once and they change some housing inside. It come back with same noise. Sent it back this time and it's perfect. Crazy how powerful it feels now with new filter lol


----------



## Kolbym

Are there any decent options for generic vacuum bags? I got the Midi. I don't expect to be going through bags very often, but it would be nice to have a cheaper option especially for general cleanup. Any personal experience with how the Midi does with drywall dust?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

The Festool bags are a few bucks a piece. They work many times better than shop vac bags. You can fill them all the way up till your hose is clogged. No comparison to them and the cheap bags. 

Sweep up the big stuff to save the space.

*edit*

I forgot to address the drywall part. The Midi does just fine with it. If you're just doing a little bit of sanding here and there you'll be fine. They make the CT36 Auto Clean vac for use with the Planex sander for doing drywall sanding. I've use the ETS125 which is a 5" random orbit sander to sand drywall ever since I got it. I haven't had to sand more than a few boards worth on any given job and it's done great.

If you were filling the whole bag up with just drywall dust I suspect you'd see a drop in suction. But mixed in with all the other stuff it has done fine for me.


----------



## Nick R

Bags are the same price per as ridgid bags for a 4 gal vac I have and are way better quality. Once I realized that, I just change them out and don't worry about it.


----------



## Spencer

I'm gonna give the ets 125 a shot for sanding drywall on bathroom jobs.

What sand paper do I want?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Granat 220. I just ordered 100 last night. Much better deal that way.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

All my sandpaper for my Planex is brilliant. I have tried others with my RO150 but it takes more range of grit to get the same finish quality. Plus it don't seem to last as long.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

It's probably a good idea to try a small pack of something first Spencer and see how you like it.


----------



## Spencer

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Granat 220. I just ordered 100 last night. Much better deal that way.


Thanks. For the advice...and costing me more money on tools. I should have known better than to venture into this thread....


----------



## Spencer

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> It's probably a good idea to try a small pack of something first Spencer and see how you like it.


To late...ordered 100. You were right. Big cost savings that way. I trust your judgement. :thumbup:


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Spencer said:


> Thanks. For the advice...and costing me more money on tools. I should have known better than to venture into this thread....



Well I think it worked out to like $0.50 a sheet vs $1 when you buy 100. You pretty much get no dust once you get the hang of it.

I didn't suggest more money on tools. Although you should get the Planex...


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Spencer said:


> To late...ordered 100. You were right. Big cost savings that way. I trust your judgement. :thumbup:



If Tom says it's good, I usually try it. He's rarely wrong. Well, I assume he's been wrong, I can't remember a time though.


----------



## tjbnwi

If the Granat is to sharp run it on some concrete for a few seconds, takes some of the aggressiveness out of it.

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Well I did it in the last 3 hours last night. I took advantage of the 10% off. I got me a kapex and the ug stand with wings.. oh yea and I finally got the midi in a combo package with the kapex! That 36 is getting too heavy for me!


----------



## Kolbym

Where did you end up getting it from? I ordered mine from festoolproducts, along with the ts55 kit. The ts55 and midi were both in stock and it took them two business days just to package it. Since the kapex is on backorder everywhere I cancelled and bought from Bob Marino...should have ordered from him the first time :-/


----------



## brhokel606

I bought my Festool stuff local, Stan Houston in my town, they have been a dealer for a long time but didn't stock much. They hired a wood working guy, changed a bunch of stuff around in the store and are really pushing Festool now. Which is great, I have a business account there already, know them all by name and they have great customer service. They need to sell more Festool stuff to show the need to continue getting in more products, guess I am here to help!


----------



## Rich D.

I order my stuff from burns tools. I was going to order from Bob Marino but then I'll get hit with sales tax


----------



## Rustbucket

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> If Tom says it's good, I usually try it. He's rarely wrong. Well, I assume he's been wrong, I can't remember a time though.



Ask his wife. I'm sure she'll tell you!


----------



## Calidecks

Rich D. said:


> I order my stuff from burns tools. I was going to order from Bob Marino but then I'll get hit with sales tax


I like burns tools. They've been around for a very long time.


----------



## AustinDB

After fishing the RO150 cord through, I went to test the whip length on the TS55REQ only to find out the plug is slightly different. 

Can you see any issue cutting the tab off the plug on the left?

I thought all the tools used the same cord...


----------



## AustinDB

Left is the RO, right is the TS


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

72chevy4x4 said:


> View attachment 150993
> 
> 
> After fishing the RO150 cord through, I went to test the whip length on the TS55REQ only to find out the plug is slightly different.
> 
> Can you see any issue cutting the tab off the plug on the left?
> 
> I thought all the tools used the same cord...


do not remove the tab. the one with tab is smaller gauge cable and will burn up on the bigger tools. just use the fatter cord with all the tools.


----------



## Spencer

I got my 125 today and tried it on some bathroom drywall sanding.

It was pretty finicky in terms of "jumpiness."

I tried tweaking the suction. Didn't seem to make a huge difference.

Any advice for getting it to run smoother? It seems like I had to hold it just right...

Was using 220 paper.


----------



## overanalyze

Rotex or Ets Spencer?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

72chevy4x4 said:


> Left is the RO, right is the TS


I use the heavier cord with all the tools.


----------



## skillman

Spencer said:


> I got my 125 today and tried it on some bathroom drywall sanding.
> 
> It was pretty finicky in terms of "jumpiness."
> 
> I tried tweaking the suction. Didn't seem to make a huge difference.
> 
> Any advice for getting it to run smoother? It seems like I had to hold it just right...
> 
> Was using 220 paper.



Let the sander do the work . Don't push down to hard . I got my ETS and thought the samething . To much pressure it was a junpin jack .


----------



## BBuild

I think it's stupid they make two different gauge cords. How much money can they really be saving? I sold off two of the smaller cords because I kept getting them mixed up.


----------



## Spencer

overanalyze said:


> Rotex or Ets Spencer?



Ets.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Spencer, the goal is to hold the sander to the wall and do nothing else. I run it around half suction or maybe less. It's easier on walls than ceilings. You shouldn't push at all really.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BBuild said:


> I think it's stupid they make two different gauge cords. How much money can they really be saving? I sold off two of the smaller cords because I kept getting them mixed up.


The lighter weight more flexible cords are mostly on sanders, when working on vertical surfaces or overhead, it does make a difference.


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer, 

As other pointed out, no pressure on the sander, let it float. The ETS is a finish sander, not made for aggressive work. Turn the CT all the way down, speed 4-5 for compound sanding. 

You'll get used to the way it works. 

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

thx for the info guys-wish I had asked first-guess I'll remove the 18ga and insert the 16ga cord lol. 

fwiw, I bought the sleeving and shrinkflex from cableorganizer.com for less than $20.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Spencer, when in doubt, listen to Tom not me. 

I couldn't remember for sure what level suction. Although I do vaguely remember last time turning it down even more cause I felt like it was being sucked to the wall too much.

I haven't sanded a whole lot of drywall with it yet. Still figuring it out myself.


----------



## AustinDB

Just sharing a tip, I keep the manual with my saw but it was getting dinged up. Decided to remove all of the pages written in another language, then trimmed the plastic just a tad so that the manual can slip in between the case and the plastic insert.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I take everything out including the molded plastic insert and drop it in the bottom. Haven't looked at it since I got the saw but I figured why not.


----------



## m1911

72chevy4x4 said:


> View attachment 151121
> 
> 
> Just sharing a tip, I keep the manual with my saw but it was getting dinged up. Decided to remove all of the pages written in another language, then trimmed the plastic just a tad so that the manual can slip in between the case and the plastic insert.


It's an unwritten rule - guys don't read instruction manuals.


----------



## AustinDB

Difference of opinion, I spend $$ on Festool and want to know how to utilize it the the fullest. 

The protector around the cord/hose is working as hoped, no more roughed up edges on thin laminate


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Except the manuals are almost worthless.


----------



## AustinDB

funny you should say that Warner, I pulled it out to figure out why the rail stop has the funky notch when inserted from the back of the cut...never did find the answer. 

do they make rail stop that works for the rear of the rail? I don't understand why it's make that way.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The black plastic piece with a notch in it?

It's to back the saw base into for plunge cutting, stops kick backs.


----------



## Rich D.

She's here! Midi and kapex! Ordered Sunday and arrived today! Not bad burns tools! Now where's my ug stand?


----------



## Rich D.

Desperate times.. all the knives are in the truck and it's snowing right now. This works! Now I know why I have a pex cutter.. :thumbup:


----------



## Rich D.

This is why I always order from burns tools, fast shipping and good service.. plus they always throw in shirts to sweeten the deal.


----------



## rrk

Rich D. said:


> This is why I always order from burns tools, fast shipping and good service.. plus they always throw in shirts to sweeten the deal.


I think spending more than 2k could have something to do wit it also


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> funny you should say that Warner, I pulled it out to figure out why the rail stop has the funky notch when inserted from the back of the cut...never did find the answer.
> 
> do they make rail stop that works for the rear of the rail? I don't understand why it's make that way.


The notch in the black anti-kickback device is so the TS does not tip off the rail when you cut bevels. (really it's for what Darcy said, this is another use I found). 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nRyR7YlD8s&sns=em

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

I was cutting windows into solid core doors and didn't consider the 'jumping' out. Was trying to use the mark on the side of the saw as the starting position of the back of the blade...figured it out though


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Rich D. said:


> This is why I always order from burns tools, fast shipping and good service.. plus they always throw in shirts to sweeten the deal.


Bob Marino take note – T-shirts with the order! I love the “Weapons of Mass Construction” logo :clap:


----------



## BBuild

Last time I was at Burns tool they gave me a new cup for my koolaid and all I bought was a toolie.


----------



## Jswills76

Got a mft 3 today. Man that's heavy. Very well put together. I always thought they looked kinda flimsy in the pictures. I'm anxious to use it,just glad I have some one else to carry it haha


----------



## tjbnwi

Jswills76 said:


> Got a mft 3 today. Man that's heavy. Very well put together. I always thought they looked kinda flimsy in the pictures. I'm anxious to use it,just glad I have some one else to carry it haha


Once you figure it out it is easy to carry. I carry mine under arm.

Tom


----------



## Bjackson3

Slight rant...have had my Kapex for I guess about 3 years. Sent it in for a tune up. Guard sticking, miter out of adjustment. Got a quote back for $570.00. Still waiting from my supplier to see exactly what they are quoting...but I really can't imagine why it could be so much.

Any guesses?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Bjackson3 said:


> Slight rant...have had my Kapex for I guess about 3 years. Sent it in for a tune up. Guard sticking, miter out of adjustment. Got a quote back for $570.00. Still waiting from my supplier to see exactly what they are quoting...but I really can't imagine why it could be so much.
> 
> Any guesses?



Guard sticking was an easy fix for me and miter adjustment is also meNt to be a fairly easy adjustment if you have the tools and time so I'm guessing there's few parts damaged at that price. A lot of parts.


----------



## Bjackson3

I have adjusted the miter a few times.over the years. Just figured since it was going in. It isn't really that the guard is stuck but more that the head doesn't go all the way back up. Like the springs are worn. Otherwise the saw works fine...just figured for a few hundred I could have it perfect. I am way to busy to be fiddling with it at night.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

$570 sounds like an awful lot for a spring. When you find out what's up let us know.


----------



## Calidecks

Bjackson3 said:


> Slight rant...have had my Kapex for I guess about 3 years. Sent it in for a tune up. Guard sticking, miter out of adjustment. Got a quote back for $570.00. Still waiting from my supplier to see exactly what they are quoting...but I really can't imagine why it could be so much.
> 
> Any guesses?


That doesn't surprise me one bit.


----------



## Inner10

Bjackson3 said:


> I have adjusted the miter a few times.over the years. Just figured since it was going in. It isn't really that the guard is stuck but more that the head doesn't go all the way back up. Like the springs are worn. Otherwise the saw works fine...just figured for a few hundred I could have it perfect. I am way to busy to be fiddling with it at night.


For 570 bones I think I could take a night off to fiddle a bit. :laughing:


----------



## Kolbym

I received my Kapex yesterday. I'm not 100% sold on it yet but I have a crown job coming up next week that I'll be testing it out on. I was sold on the TS55 pretty quick, I'm a little skeptical that the Kapex is worth the coin though. I doubt I would have bought it without the 30 day guarantee. It seems nice enough out of the box though, lots of neat features. The forward rails and the DC are the main reason I bought it. I plan on setting it up in my Sprinter and moving it as little as possible.

Does anyone actually use the miter gauge? It seems like a cool idea...that an engineer in a cubicle thought up. I can't imagine trimming a house out one corner at a time though, unless I moved the saw around with me. My wife thinks it would be great for a prop in geometry class...I'll probably end up giving it to her


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Festool dust collection should work much better on a 2000 dollar setup. If it collected the dust like the tracksaw I'd be happy. But it's not even close. I'm not comfortable with what it spits out. I hooked up the DC to my little 200 dollar 10" Makita that was almost as good.



I had a 1016fl makita and festool side by side for a while with same ct22 vac. There was no comparison between the extraction. The festool def caught way more than the makita did. I couldn't have used the makita indoors at all but the kapex I can cut baseboard and trim all day in a room and not have any dust on counters, TV's, cabinets etc etc after I leave. Let's put it this way. Worked for a guy who wanted dust sheets put on his grass to stop dust from hitting his grass from the flooring guys finishing the floors inside. I used my kapex inside that house for about 3days none stop and there was not a spec of dust on one flat surface. ThiszwS even after sanding about 1200sqft of floors. If it's good enough for that guy it's good enough for anyone. 

Not sure why yours is giving you such a problem lately.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I had a 1016fl makita and festool side by side for a while with same ct22 vac. There was no comparison between the extraction. The festool def caught way more than the makita did. I couldn't have used the makita indoors at all but the kapex I can cut baseboard and trim all day in a room and not have any dust on counters, TV's, cabinets etc etc after I leave. Let's put it this way. Worked for a guy who wanted dust sheets put on his grass to stop dust from hitting his grass from the flooring guys finishing the floors inside. I used my kapex inside that house for about 3days none stop and there was not a spec of dust on one flat surface. ThiszwS even after sanding about 1200sqft of floors. If it's good enough for that guy it's good enough for anyone.
> 
> Not sure why yours is giving you such a problem lately.


This wasn't even close to my experience. Maybe I'll show it side by side if I get time. As a matter of fact I did my whole downstairs hardwood floor at my house, with the Makita on the floor, hooked to my ct. I was impressed. There were a lot of cuts too. I'm sure the kapex would've done better, but again it was 1400 bucks it's suppose to. I used the little Makita 10" because of its portability. I could just slide it along with me. It captured 90%.


----------



## Jswills76

I like my 1016 but that saw has the worst dust collection. That's what drove me to the kapex. My ls714 is pretty good but not as good as the kapex.


----------



## charimon

tjbnwi said:


> The notch in the black anti-kickback device is so the TS does not tip off the rail when you cut bevels. (really it's for what Darcy said, this is another use I found).
> 
> Tom


I was quite annoyed with Festool I offered this solution to them. basic response was. "Ve are a Greman concern. None of your Yankee meddling is desired in our perfectly designed products"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHFl469ygvc


----------



## overanalyze

Sell them! Make some money yourself. People on the Fog would be all over it.


----------



## tjbnwi

charimon said:


> I was quite annoyed with Festool I offered this solution to them. basic response was. "Ve are a Greman concern. None of your Yankee meddling is desired in our perfectly designed products"
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHFl469ygvc


No need for the metal tab. The anti kickback device holds the saw just fine.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> No need for the metal tab. The anti kickback device holds the saw just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Does the kickback device follow the saw though? I thought you had to use a second hand to push it along.


----------



## charimon

tjbnwi said:


> No need for the metal tab. The anti kickback device holds the saw just fine.
> 
> Tom


not when you are trying to pull it along behind as you cut. the metal tab was used to hold the device in place (with 2 magnets embeded in the saw base) as you made a bevel cut so when you finished the cut it was right there. In your video you actually have to push the saw via the kickbak to keep it engaged.


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Does the kickback device follow the saw though? I thought you had to use a second hand to push it along.





charimon said:


> not when you are trying to pull it along behind as you cut. the metal tab was used to hold the device in place (with 2 magnets embeded in the saw base) as you made a bevel cut so when you finished the cut it was right there. In your video you actually have to push the saw via the kickbak to keep it engaged.


When I cut bevels my hand was on the saw base where the anti kickback is located prior to using the anti kickback device. 

I push the saw primarily with the hand on the handle, the hand on the kickback device is pushing the device more than the saw.

Tom


----------



## Millar

*Sander RTS400 or DTS400*

Am trying to decide on a sander that will handle occasional drywall jobs hooked up to my ct36 . Can't justify the planex so first thought the ets150/5 would be the best choice . I have a 5 inch bosch ro sander and tried it out with a jury rigged adapter for its oval output to keep the vac hose on it , did not go well . I am leaning toward the rts400 as my 1/4 sheet finish sander has gone up in smoke . Any thoughts or suggestions welcome . Most of my drywall jobs are just a few corners and joints in a bathroom.
Thanks


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Don't remember any power planer talk lately.

Anybody have the 850?

Used one a while back during a guest performance on another guys jobsite.

Liked the depth adjust in the handle.
Actually used the bench top joiner setup for tuning a couple little pieces.
Remember it being fairly large though.
Theoretically love the idea of the rabbet feature and the rustic heads......just not sure how much I'll actually be utilizing either.

Did they discontinue it's little brother (65)?

I killed my Bosch dead, and I need a replacement.

Although I've reached a point in my career where I can barely consider alternative brands......I'm still undecided as to whether the 850 plus all the add-ons is of value to me. (I'm not a guy who uses a hand held power planer all that much....but maybe I should be???)

P.S. I LOVE MY NEW STICKFIXes!!!!


----------



## tjbnwi

Millar said:


> Am trying to decide on a sander that will handle occasional drywall jobs hooked up to my ct36 . Can't justify the planex so first thought the ets150/5 would be the best choice . I have a 5 inch bosch ro sander and tried it out with a jury rigged adapter for its oval output to keep the vac hose on it , did not go well . I am leaning toward the rts400 as my 1/4 sheet finish sander has gone up in smoke . Any thoughts or suggestions welcome . Most of my drywall jobs are just a few corners and joints in a bathroom.
> Thanks


ETS 125 and RTS will do well for you. I prefer Brilliant 2 for drywall, Granat will work, but it is very sharp.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Don't remember any power planer talk lately.
> 
> Anybody have the 850?
> 
> Used one a while back during a guest performance on another guys jobsite.
> 
> Liked the depth adjust in the handle.
> Actually used the bench top joiner setup for tuning a couple little pieces.
> Remember it being fairly large though.
> Theoretically love the idea of the rabbet feature and the rustic heads......just not sure how much I'll actually be utilizing either.
> 
> Did they discontinue it's little brother (65)?
> 
> I killed my Bosch dead, and I need a replacement.
> 
> Although I've reached a point in my career where I can barely consider alternative brands......I'm still undecided as to whether the 850 plus all the add-ons is of value to me. (I'm not a guy who uses a hand held power planer all that much....but maybe I should be???)
> 
> P.S. I LOVE MY NEW STICKFIXes!!!!


The 850 is a great planer. Everything you mention makes it worth owning.

The 65 is discounted. Wood World in Chicago had a demo for sale last month, not sure if it sold yet.

Stickfixes are a hidden gem.

Tom

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> The 850 is a great planer. Everything you mention makes it worth owning.
> 
> The 65 is discounted. Wood World in Chicago had a demo for sale last month, not sure if it sold yet.
> 
> Stickfixes are a hidden gem.
> 
> Tom
> 
> Tom


What paper do you use on the Stickfixes?


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> What paper do you use on the Stickfixes?


Brilliant is the pre cut. I keep all grits in stock.

http://www.tool-home.com/products/c...fix&osCsid=umrl0ccaqaojmtd2jbgmi46d65&x=0&y=0

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Brilliant is the pre cut. I keep all grits in stock.
> 
> http://www.tool-home.com/products/c...fix&osCsid=umrl0ccaqaojmtd2jbgmi46d65&x=0&y=0
> 
> Tom


Thanks. Now reply to my text...:whistling


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Thanks. Now reply to my text...:whistling


I did.

Tom


----------



## Kolbym

rrk said:


> You will get tired of cutting in the sprinter, I had a saw setup in several of my box trucks. It became an issue when I had a long piece to the right ( forward ) of the saw unless the saw is at the very end of the truck. For small things its ok but many 16's its an issue.


My plan is to store my Kapex in the truck where it is usable for smaller amounts of cutting. Bigger jobs or longer material I'll remove it and put it on a stand. I cut all day today in my Sprinter today with no problems. With the saw at the back of the truck I can easily cut 12' on both sides of the blade. I'll be cutting 16' stock tomorrow so I'll pull the saw off the truck. I just have the saw on my stand in the truck right now, I'll use it like this for awhile before I spend any time building a workstation only to find out I hate it.


----------



## Kolbym

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The angle finder is simple to use, no math involved. It gets used on odd corners, measure it, set it on the saw, line up the lasers with the marks on it and done.


I understand what it does, my question was does anyone actually use it on the jobsite. I can understand using it if I only had one or two corners, but the last thing I want to do is measure a corner, carry the angle finder to the saw, cut, walk back to the room, measure the next corner, walk back to the saw....There are several other angle finders that I can measure a corner with, write down the measurement, and keep measuring. Most of them do the math for you. 

I did a trim job last week that needed stain grade base and quarter around 4 columns. Every corner was half a degree to 1.5 degrees off 90. If i used the Kapex angle finder I would have been there all day.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

The saws normally in the room I'm working so there's hardly any extra time involved with using the gauge and it's dead on. My bosch digital angle finder seems to be dead on but it normally requires a couple trips back and forth to dial the cut in. Never had to do that with the festool angle finder as I can adjust how far out the legs stick to make sure I'm in the optimum area of the wall to get the angle. 

Most times I do repetitive cuts like 4 corners on a newel post then I don't use any angle finder as I know these are almost certain to be perfect 90's


----------



## Calidecks

It's too much dust for me to set up in someone's home. Period. That's indisputable. I am the only one that can speak for me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> I suppose if I was a poster man for festool I'd feel obligated to defend them as well. Also if I had 20k tied up in the tools I'd have to defend them.
> 
> Don't really care what you guys think of them. you obviously care deeply what I think of them, or this wouldn't keep going like it has. You will never convince me to have that much dust in sometimes home. Period. It's not too much for you? That's cool. Don't care! Again I don't make my decisions on what any of your guys experiences with the saw are.



So you think anyone who uses their tools and likes how well they work is getting some kind of back hander from Festool . Damn i wish i was as i would be swimming in their kit by now. I think i have gotten a pencil, sticker and 2 t-shirts upto yet. 

I don't think any of us really care what you think about them. Just like on the Apple posts i set people straight about myths. Like when you said your makita collected more dust than the festool which i know is absolutely untrue as i had both running side by side for months. doing trim in an office. When you make comments like that it makes wonder if you are just trolling the page trying to do all you can to trying to give festool a bad rep because you don't like how expensive they are.

Nothing against your personal Mike but it seems its more a case of user error than the tool not working right. 

Here's the 1013FL next to my makita incase you dont believe i owned both saws. I have also owned the 1016 which had even worse extraction than the 1013 which did seem possible. The kapex next to these 2 was night and day with the same vac connected.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> So you think anyone who uses their tools and likes how well they work is getting some kind of back hander from Festool . Damn i wish i was as i would be swimming in their kit by now. I think i have gotten a pencil, sticker and 2 t-shirts upto yet.
> 
> I don't think any of us really care what you think about them. Just like on the Apple posts i set people straight about myths. Like when you said your makita collected more dust than the festool which i know is absolutely untrue as i had both running side by side for months. doing trim in an office. When you make comments like that it makes wonder if you are just trolling the page trying to do all you can to trying to give festool a bad rep because you don't like how expensive they are.
> 
> Nothing against your personal Mike but it seems its more a case of user error than the tool not working right.
> 
> Here's the 1013FL next to my makita incase you dont believe i owned both saws. I have also owned the 1016 which had even worse extraction than the 1013 which did seem possible. The kapex next to these 2 was night and day with the same vac connected.


 5% dust is too much for me. Even big dust. So my standards are high how is that user error? I think it could be better? So that's user error? Unbelievable! And laughable.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> So you think anyone who uses their tools and likes how well they work is getting some kind of back hander from Festool . Damn i wish i was as i would be swimming in their kit by now. I think i have gotten a pencil, sticker and 2 t-shirts upto yet.
> 
> I don't think any of us really care what you think about them. Just like on the Apple posts i set people straight about myths. Like when you said your makita collected more dust than the festool which i know is absolutely untrue as i had both running side by side for months. doing trim in an office. When you make comments like that it makes wonder if you are just trolling the page trying to do all you can to trying to give festool a bad rep because you don't like how expensive they are.
> 
> Nothing against your personal Mike but it seems its more a case of user error than the tool not working right.
> 
> Here's the 1013FL next to my makita incase you dont believe i owned both saws. I have also owned the 1016 which had even worse extraction than the 1013 which did seem possible. The kapex next to these 2 was night and day with the same vac connected.


Why can't it just be, you're ok with what it leaves in the home and I'm not?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Why can't you leave at that?


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Why can't you leave at that?


Perfect! That's where I wanted it left from the BEGINNING of this stupid conversation. :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

10% dust to me is not a problem. That's a 20second suck up with the vac on the MFT and under the MFT or a 10second suck up with a dust sheet down. If that's too much hassle then that's your choice but the saw is perfectly fine for use inside a finished home weather you like it or not. As I have said has been done a lot over the last 5years and no dust on one surface other than under the saw. which is what 95% of users find is the case too. 

If the saw can work in a house where a guy wants dust sheets on his grass because he's worried about dust getting in his yard and checks every surface with flash lights each day whilst I'm working it will be fine in anyone's house. my flooring guys sanded the whole house hardwoods without a spec of dust left on one surface. It can be done you just have to know what your doing.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I don’t think he’s going to give up on this! What say you forum?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

He's not gonna give up. He just can't stay away from this thread.


----------



## duburban

I've been using the seneca parallel guides all day to rip for (30) 1/2" ply drawer boxes. 

Those guides are so much better to use than Festool's. I'm getting more precision for sure and not fighting with adjusting the spacing between depending on the material width. I really recommend these guides. I'd actually like to get another set with a shorter incra track. 

If anyone out there has the Festool track saw setup, put these on your shopping list: 

http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/parallel-guide-system-for-incra-t-track-plus


----------



## duburban

In response to the other "debate"…

I have somewhere around $17k invested in this gear (replacement value), I try to buy it used. 

I'm starting to get a little irritated at some of the engineering failures in the lineup. I appreciate California's criticism because while these a great tools, they could be better and I worry about quality decreasing in the future. 

TS55r was arguably released a little too soon… The Carvex that was released a little too soon… The TI15 that should have been aborted in house…


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Theres never been one tool I have bought that I have not thought this would have been a better way to do it or design it. That don't just go for tools though that applies to everything I have ever bought. I had to add some bungee cords and paddle holders to my kayak as they were not designed with it in mind. $1700 for a kayak and no paddle holder! 

I doubt there will ever be a product that your don't think you could make better.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

duburban said:


> TS55r was arguably released a little too soon… The Carvex that was released a little too soon… The TI15 that should have been aborted in house…


There were only like 250 of the 55r's that were affected. It was one part from a batch that was a few thousands off. They just followed protocol to take them all back and inspect them and then resolve the issue.

No clue what the issue was with the Carvex 400.

Funny thing about the Ti15, some people really liked that drill/impact while other's really didn't.


----------



## Spencer

I have to go with mike on this one. There are some people who's house I could cut in. Other definitely not. If your cutting and the furnace or ac is pulling air there are fines being pulled throughout the house. It's not what is left under the saw that concerns me, it's what is in the air. 

I work for people where there would not be a snow balls chance in hell of me cutting in their house even if it left 1%.


----------



## Rustbucket

BCConstruction said:


> The other 5% are prob wrong size hose, clogged filters, full bags, wrong length hose exaggerating the amount of dust it kicks out.



Hose size makes a big difference. The small hose just doesn't flow enough air volume to be effective. The smaller hose is too restrictive. That being said, miter saws in general are going to be hard to tame in terms of dust. There is no way, at least as far as I can see, to totally enclose the blade while being able to see the blade, and not cause binding. You're moving a big blade mounted on a swing arm and sliding on rails into the work. There are too many ways for dust to escape to make it 100% effective.


----------



## overanalyze

Spencer said:


> I have to go with mike on this one. There are some people who's house I could cut in. Other definitely not. If your cutting and the furnace or ac is pulling air there are fines being pulled throughout the house. It's not what is left under the saw that concerns me, it's what is in the air.
> 
> I work for people where there would not be a snow balls chance in hell of me cutting in their house even if it left 1%.


I will cut inside if it's an extensive remodel. We do a lot of plastic containment walls to keep the dust in the area we are working.

We also run an air filter the entire time we are working and let it run for another 4 hours after we leave. 

Also the first thing we do in the morning is shut off the furnace. Why would you leave that on and allow it to spread the dust?

Now if I am only installing crown or some misc. trim in a finished home I will cut in the garage and still hook up the vac.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Spencer said:


> I have to go with mike on this one. There are some people who's house I could cut in. Other definitely not. If your cutting and the furnace or ac is pulling air there are fines being pulled throughout the house. It's not what is left under the saw that concerns me, it's what is in the air.
> 
> I work for people where there would not be a snow balls chance in hell of me cutting in their house even if it left 1%.



That's why you shut the Heat/air off whilst you work in homes or at least down to a minimum. First rule of keeping dust down in a home. Esp with demo work. I use negative air on demo so most times I shut the furnace down so I don't pull fumes back into a house. 

I had that HO who wanted dust sheets on his grass that didn't want the saw in the house. I set it up and told him if there's one spec of dust in that house I would pay for cleaners to come on in and clean the whole house. That was also after flooring guys sanded his whole house too. the only place that needed cleaning up was the landing where the cable guys got into the loft and there was a bunch of dust and insulation on the 2nd floor. I can bet you would never have to deal with a guy this anal with dust. He was beyond stupid. He flipped out when I took my shoes off and didn't put booties over my socks as I stepped on garage floor with socks on before stepping into booties. He also had a 2 way door where you had to remove dirty jackets and trousers before you got into main part of house. He also flipped out at the flooring guy smoking at end of yard because the smoke may get blown back into house. A bit of dust come out of the flooring guys sander bag on his drive. He got a asphalt company out to resurface the drive. Yeah he was that bad. Yet kapex in house no issue.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Anyone seen that dead horse? Need to drag his ass up here for a beating!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Anyone seen that dead horse? Need to drag his ass up here for a beating!



If you don't want to read posts about how great festool is don't go in the festool fan club. Pretty simple really!


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

What seems simple to me is that some of us would not cut with our Kapex’s in a finished house and some of you would. You’re not going to convince me or Mike and we’re not going to convince you.

A truce was offered awhile back and now it seems like beating a dead horse to me. I’ll go where I like and I’ll post as I please. Pretty simple really!


----------



## overanalyze

I use the Brilliant 180 for the ETS and the Planex.


----------



## Joemack1

If the room is cleared out and taped off why use suction, y not just use a dust bag


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> I prefer Brilliant 2 for drywall compound. It is not as sharp as Granat. 180 or 220 works well unless you got really sloppy with the compound.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



I start with 80 my mudding is that bad lol


----------



## tjbnwi

schaefercs said:


> Well I was way wrong. Glad I asked. Thanks fellas, I'll report back on how it goes for me.


Turn the CT down to about 25%, speed 5-6, do not put pressure on the sander, the more the 125 floats the better it works.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Joemack1 said:


> If the room is cleared out and taped off why use suction, y not just use a dust bag



They don't do crap compared to using a vac. One I went from just the bag to my ct22 on my makita there was no going back. Even working outside.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Berri, If you had to install crown (214 pieces) in a room with high gloss black lacquer cabinetry, mirrors, polished absolute black granite and the carpet was already installed, would you set up your Kapex in the room?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Berri, If you had to install crown (214 pieces) in a room with high gloss black lacquer cabinetry, mirrors, polished absolute black granite and the carpet was already installed, would you set up your Kapex in the room?


Yes, and I would back charge the GC for putting all that crap in the way first.:laughing:


----------



## Joemack1

Does vac size matter in dust collection


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> I start with 80 my mudding is that bad lol



I hope you're joking... But I don't think you are. That's pretty bad. You should get blacktop to drop by and give you a lesson.


----------



## tjbnwi

Joemack1 said:


> Does vac size matter in dust collection


The motors on the CT's are the same size. The smaller CT's the hose enter through the top of the unit, using a shortened 36 mm hose allows a more direct flow.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yes, and I would back charge the GC for putting all that crap in the way first.:laughing:


It was a change order, so the conditions were known. But now I’ll ask you, would you do all your scribing and coping somewhere else?


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> I start with 80 my mudding is that bad lol


Try Saphire then.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I hope you're joking... But I don't think you are. That's pretty bad. You should get blacktop to drop by and give you a lesson.



I'm getting better but still ain't great. I have a lot of high spots so I hit them quickly with the 80 then goto 120 after that.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> I'm getting better but still ain't great. I have a lot of high spots so I hit them quickly with the 80 then goto 120 after that.



I have had 2 different drywallers teach me how to mud. I was ok before they gave me tips, I'm much better now. Still not as fast as them but I can make it look great. With minimal sanding now.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Berri, If you had to install crown (214 pieces) in a room with high gloss black lacquer cabinetry, mirrors, polished absolute black granite and the carpet was already installed, would you set up your Kapex in the room?



Well by that point I would prob have the cabinets covered due to the painters being in there or coming in there. Mirrors wouldn't bother me as they would also be down. Floor would prob have ram
Board or the tacky floor protector stuff no matter if painters were there or not and carpet always get dust sheets anyway. 

There's a big difference between a finished room and a furnished room. What you are describingbus an almost finished room but if it was furnished I would be moving stuff to another room with that much crown. I def wouldn't be doing it outside with that many cuts.


----------



## tjbnwi

I respect each persons choice on where to set up the Kapex, to each their own. Just like the tools, what works for you.

When we did the vanities for the Sheraton we did cut on the floor the units were going on. We were the last ones on the floor so everything was finished, including carpet. We were the only ones allowed to cut on the floors after I demonstrated the dust control. The fire alarm had both smoke and particle sensors. We set up 12-16' feet from one of the elevator lobby sensors on each floor, not once did we set off an alarm. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

DaVinciRemodel said:


> It was a change order, so the conditions were known. But now I’ll ask you, would you do all your scribing and coping somewhere else?


No. The jig saw doesn't make a mess and if I have to use my ras115, it doesn't make a mess that I would have to worry about. 

Whats the point of DC on portable power tools, if you still have to walk back and forth for every cut and task?

I would rather toss down a couple drop cloths and cover up a couple things with some light weight painters plastic, if needed, then walk back and forth. 

Few places I have worked, it was 250' feet just to get back to the saw.

I need a hover round for that crap.:laughing:


----------



## rrk

BCConstruction said:


> I'm getting better but still ain't great. I have a lot of high spots so I hit them quickly with the 80 then goto 120 after that.


If you still need 80 you are not getting better 
you are just fooling yourself

I only work in finished homes, very rarely are rooms cleared out. If a kapex does not get 100% of the dust in does not help me at all and I saved a ton of money.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

BCConstruction said:


> Well by that point I would prob have the cabinets covered due to the painters being in there or coming in there. Mirrors wouldn't bother me as they would also be down. Floor would prob have ram
> Board or the tacky floor protector stuff no matter if painters were there or not and carpet always get dust sheets anyway.
> 
> There's a big difference between a finished room and a furnished room. What you are describingbus an almost finished room but if it was furnished I would be moving stuff to another room with that much crown. I def wouldn't be doing it outside with that many cuts.


The mirrors are inserted and imbedded in the tile – taking them down was not an option. The room was not furnished but finished - there was nothing to move out. 

So do you set up your Kapex in the room? Do you do all your scribing and coping somewhere else?


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> I'm getting better but still ain't great. I have a lot of high spots so I hit them quickly with the 80 then goto 120 after that.


BTE.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I only ask them to Please don’t tell me I don’t know what I’m talking about. Don’t call me names. Don’t insult my work. Don’t insult my intelligence. After that, if it works for you great – it doesn’t work for me.


Ok Kettle.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Really?


Yes!


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

This is way off topic – has nothing to do with this thread, but, I was just wondering if anyone’s heard this quote before.

_“Never argue with stupid people. They drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.”_ Mark Twain

I just love that quote. You guys be good. I'm going to bed. Talk to you tomorrow :thumbsup:


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The last 4 pages was nothing more then one person wanting to argue for the sake of arguing. Several others offered their experiences, yet one and then two decided to argue just for the sake of it. 

Then the name calling, then the stupid quotes. 

I wonder if the professional arguers here are getting paid for it? 

They do it a lot, maybe it's the only thing they are actually good at.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> The last 4 pages was nothing more then one person wanting to argue for the sake of arguing. Several others offered their experiences, yet one and then two decided to argue just for the sake of it.
> 
> Then the name calling, then the stupid quotes.
> 
> I wonder if the professional arguers here are getting paid for it?
> 
> They do it a lot, maybe it's the only thing they are actually good at.


Maybe your just not as right as you always think you are. :laughing:


----------



## duburban

Just milled 240 domino mortices with the Seneca Domiplate, killer add on for the domino. Super accurate. 

http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/domiplate-for-1-2-and-3-4-ply


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

duburban said:


> Just milled 240 domino mortices with the Seneca Domiplate, killer add on for the domino. Super accurate.
> 
> http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/domiplate-for-1-2-and-3-4-ply



I have thought about buying that, but I don't use mine for 1/2" anything and using my domino upside down wouldn't work for a lot of things I use it for. 

their products are well made though.


----------



## charimon

Joemack1 said:


> Does vac size matter in dust collection


Yes.
One of the things you can do on your saws, if you have 2 Ct units, is Y them together to run in parallel (you will bump your CFM up dramatically, not doubling it because your water lift will bump up to account for the hose resistance) this will help with the larger dust being captured.

I do not have a Kapex or I would make a vid. My twin Midi's work pretty well with my Hum B. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHJyE0M2wJY


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I understand the weather thing. Though we did this in April/May of last year, we also had a heated garage available to us. I’m simply stating here, that the Kapex is NOT 100% airborne dust free. It seems there are two people on this forum that just can’t seem to accept this. They can believe what they want - I’m OK with that.
> 
> 
> 
> I only ask them to Please don’t tell me I don’t know what I’m talking about. Don’t call me names. Don’t insult my work. Don’t insult my intelligence. After that, if it works for you great – it doesn’t work for me.



I see you like to make stuff up as you go along. That's typical of someone who can't back up what they are saying yet dig them
Self deeper. 

But do show me where anyone said the kapex is 100% dust free.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I'm not sure if I wish my client's drove Ferrari's or not. :laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> For us, painting is usually farther down on the list, but we're doing it all ourselves anyway for the most part. I'd still cut with a Kapex after I painted though depending on the situation. It's not always going to be the same answer IMO. You have to use common sense.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no issue with someone else having a desire to not cut inside. None whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not trying to get involved in this stupid debate going on.
> 
> I was trying to make the point that the Kapex isn't the only thing making dust. That seemed to be what every one was hung up on. I fully agree it makes dust that isn't captured. I don't really care what percentage it is. I've never measured. It's an amount I'm ok with landing on the floor and vacuuming up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you love the stuff. It's hard not to. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope by addressing the Ferrari in the garage thing you didn't feel like I was being personal with you. If you're not working in the house it's the garage or outside. I've never worked in a place that ornate before. Not my taste at all but I'm sure the craftsmanship was excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> Again, nothing personal towards you and no judgments made.
> 
> 
> 
> My point was dust is dust, lots of things create it. If you're containing it to an amount that makes your client happy and you happy then keep doing what you're doing.





That's what these 2 just don't get. If you can't control the dust or be bothered to use the kit to contain the dust then cut outside. Just don't tell us lot who have done it hundreds of times since owning the saw itss not possible when they don't even cut inside. It's like me giving advice about playing the piano when I don't play the piano!

But as you say the kapex is the least of your worries in a finished home. I can think of 20 other things that would cause vastly more dust depending how you do it and the equipment you have. 

The cox cable guys around here leave more dust in a home when they leave than I do working for 4weeks.


----------



## J L




----------



## aaron_a

God, that poor horse...


----------



## rrk

aaron_a said:


> God, that poor horse...


Is that the same horse from the apple thread ? Or does Barri bring his own horses each time ?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



rrk said:


> Is that the same horse from the apple thread ? Or does Barri bring his own horses each time ?



I have special horses genetically modified that can handle the severe amount of punishment they receive. Them isheep and anti dusters are hard on them poor things.


----------



## aaron_a

rrk said:


> Is that the same horse from the apple thread ? Or does Barri bring his own horses each time ?


I think he bought all that festool kit so he could build a barn to house all his dead horses.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



aaron_a said:


> I think he bought all that festool kit so he could build a barn to house all his dead horses.



I wouldn't have to kill all these poor horse if people would just stop BSing about stuff they ain't got the first clue about. Now if it's personal preference or opinion that's fine. But when they push stuff as fact which is just not true then the horse have to be sacrificed.

Reminds me again of my mate who puts premium in his f150. It's his opinion and preference to do it because he thinks it's better for his engine. Yet there's no facts to back this up yet he try's to tell me regular is bad for my engine with no facts again to back it up. Using regular in my truck for 5+ years has done zero damage yet he's never used regular so has zero experience with using it yet he's an expert on regular. 

Kind of like guys who don't use the kapex indoors and have zero experience of using it indoors yet they are experts on using it indoors!


----------



## rrk

I think I smell another dead horse


----------



## aaron_a

Barri, don't look now, but I think there is an iPad behind you...


----------



## duburban

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I have thought about buying that, but I don't use mine for 1/2" anything and using my domino upside down wouldn't work for a lot of things I use it for.
> 
> their products are well made though.


I hardly use 1/2" also, its usually flipped over for 3/4" stock. Its rock solid on ends as well as faces.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

aaron_a said:


> Barri, don't look now, but I think there is an iPad behind you...


Ok im back. Dont even say that word to me. I just spent the last 2 hrs trying to figure out why my PC had zero space when i have over 10TB of space. Stupid itunes has been saving backups every time i plugged in my phone and auto back up was turned off as i manually do it. 

Also had a bunch of pictures filling up Icloud that i couldnt find anywhere. i had to call them and they said it's not their software its my windows system lol

Ended up having to wipe everything in icloud to remove the pictures including the backups. Lucky enough itunes had made over 300 backups of my phone so no shortage of backups there 

itunes is the biggest POS bloatware i have ever used. It's also been asking me for my icloud password 100x today as well. Thought they had fixed that issue.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

TNTSERVICES said:


> I don't own any festool yet.


Sounds like a good reason to argue then :laughing:


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Just cause I am feeling ornery....


Nice finished home, can't believe you'd let all that furniture get dust on it. :laughing:


----------



## Calidecks

I'm here.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> I would like to say that Fastcap temp door is the cats ass! All my clients think it is the coolest thing.



That looks nicer than a zip door. You able to reuse it? I'm out of zip doors, I'll buy one tonight.


----------



## overanalyze

BCConstruction said:


> Is it the magnetic one? I am gonna get that on my next job I need one. I have 1 more zip door to use up.


Yes. We have 2. They work great!


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

TNTSERVICES said:


> I don't own any festool yet.



I'm sorry. Your budget isn't though. They are kind of addicting...

Start small, you know, a grand worth or something like that.

TS55 and a Midi would be good for a remodeling contractor.


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> Nice finished home, can't believe you'd let all that furniture get dust on it. :laughing:


Lol...well that room is where our project is. The rest of the home is finished and the clients are living there...lol! 
This is when I cut inside. Everything is covered or sealed off. That said I wouldn't cut inside a home with contents in the same room no matter what saw.


----------



## overanalyze

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> That looks nicer than a zip door. You able to reuse it? I'm out of zip doors, I'll buy one tonight.


Yes completely re-usable. The $99 kit comes with the door, magnets, the top stretcher, and a heavy duty canvas bag to hold it all. If you don't have any poles you will need at least 2.


----------



## rrk

overanalyze said:


> Just cause I am feeling ornery....


I would not call that a finished room, I could easily use my makita in there without a vac.


----------



## tjbnwi

I just going to order everything precut. No saw needed.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> Yes completely re-usable. The $99 kit comes with the door, magnets, the top stretcher, and a heavy duty canvas bag to hold it all. If you don't have any poles you will need at least 2.



How well does it work in smaller openings? Like a 30" door. With the zip walls is just tape plastic to the door, put a zipper on it, and toss it at the end of the job.

Are these suitable for that sort of application but reusable?


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> I just going to order everything precut. No saw needed.
> 
> Tom


:laughing::laughing::laughing:


----------



## rrk

tjbnwi said:


> I just going to order everything precut. No saw needed.
> 
> Tom


Get the crown molding that you cut with a scissor :thumbup:


----------



## tjbnwi

rrk said:


> Get the crown molding that you cut with a scissor :thumbup:


I'll have to see if they have base and casing.

Tom


----------



## rrk

tjbnwi said:


> I'll have to see if they have base and casing.
> 
> Tom


just use the same stuff, no one will notice


----------



## overanalyze

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> How well does it work in smaller openings? Like a 30" door. With the zip walls is just tape plastic to the door, put a zipper on it, and toss it at the end of the job.
> 
> Are these suitable for that sort of application but reusable?


Yes. The magnets that come with it are pretty strong. If the opening has metal corner bead you can just hold the door in place with the magnets. Otherwise just tape this to the wall around the edges with painters tape.


----------



## duburban

Tom, Our local MFK700 guru, what are the details on the MFK vertical flush cutting modifications? 

I just did a bunch of Domino drawers and grabbed my mfk700 expecting to start flush cutting like in your videos. Is it true I need to hack out part of the base?


----------



## duburban

I see from YouTube it's the horizontal base used in vertical position. I'll be looking at me set more later today


----------



## tjbnwi

You have to remove the stainless steel cover to install the horizontal base vertically. The base mounts to the motor in the dust shroud location holes. No modification necessary.

You probably found my video;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vDySNAnrok

I have gone to using this CMT bit. the shorter bit works much better;

http://www.tool-home.com/products/c...11B&osCsid=9f6rbppvj77p5gbq2jgf76o430&x=0&y=0

I order additional bearing and double stack them, makes template work much easier.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

CMT bits, single and double stacked bearing(s)

Tom


----------



## schaefercs

Kolbym said:


> What vacuum are you using?



Ct26. Right now I don't mind the size but if I could do it again I would have picked up the midi for the jobsite.


----------



## Kolbym

I have the midi and I love the size. How is it doing with the sheetrock dust? I think my next purchase with be a sander for sheetrock.


----------



## schaefercs

It got all the dust with the exception of the little bit left in the hose. Didn't lose suxtion the entire time, worked so well I can't imagine ever sanding without it again. I had a new bag in so I was expecting no issue. Perhaps if its closer to a full bag it would have been a little less blown away


----------



## Tom M

schaefercs said:


> It got all the dust with the exception of the little bit left in the hose. Didn't lose suxtion the entire time, worked so well I can't imagine ever sanding without it again. I had a new bag in so I was expecting no issue. Perhaps if its closer to a full bag it would have been a little less blown away


I want to get the DTS first and use it for drywall. How much slower would you say it was? Was it because you were cautious about chewing the paper?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I feel like their vacs suck pretty well all the way to the end. No major loss in suction. I like the fact that the back actually will fill up unlike the stupid shop vac bags which either either tore and didn't make it to full before the vac would barely suck


----------



## Tom M

schaefercs said:


> It got all the dust with the exception of the little bit left in the hose. Didn't lose suxtion the entire time, worked so well I can't imagine ever sanding without it again. I had a new bag in so I was expecting no issue. Perhaps if its closer to a full bag it would have been a little less blown away


double post


----------



## tjbnwi

Dan_Watson said:


> Amazing. Removing texture, flaking paint and wall paper glue.
> 
> First call from the guys - "This harness sucks."
> 
> Second call - "Got it figured out, this thing is amazing. Thank you."


I won't say- I.....but I did.:clap::clap::clap:

Tom


----------



## Dan_Watson

tjbnwi said:


> I won't say- I.....but I did.:clap::clap::clap:
> 
> Tom


16 hrs ahead. Almost paid for itself on day one.


----------



## tjbnwi

schaefercs said:


> View attachment 156274
> 
> Had my ETS125 delivered yesterday and wow am I glad I got it.
> 
> It's a little slower going than hand sanding right now - I assume I'll get quicker after another few uses. But the savings of not cleaning up and not having to wear a mask are already evident.
> 
> I did as instructed, vac about 25 percent, sander on 5 with 180 grit b2. The only thing I'll have to hit by hand are the three way corners which is no big deal.





schaefercs said:


> It got all the dust with the exception of the little bit left in the hose. Didn't lose suxtion the entire time, worked so well I can't imagine ever sanding without it again. I had a new bag in so I was expecting no issue. Perhaps if its closer to a full bag it would have been a little less blown away





Tom M said:


> I want to get the DTS first and use it for drywall. How much slower would you say it was? Was it because you were cautious about chewing the paper?


You'll get faster. Get the RTS or DTS for the corners (you know you want one). 

If the CT begins to loose suction, open it and slap the bag a few times, opens up the pores a little. Make sure the hose is on when you do this. 

The ETS is a better choice for drywall sanding except for the corners. 

If your going to do a lot of drywall sanding using the 26 consider getting the blast gate. You can remove the hose, close the gate and transport the unit without a cloud of dust. The other thing the blast gate does for you is allows you to throttle the suction in combination with the dial.

Tom


----------



## schaefercs

Tom M said:


> I want to get the DTS first and use it for drywall. How much slower would you say it was? Was it because you were cautious about chewing the paper?



It took me probably 2.5 to 3 hours to sand the 12x12 room - walls, ceilings, 2 outside corners. I could have hand sanded it in an hour or maybe slightly more.

I was using 180 and there's almost no way I could have gotten into the paper. I think after a few more uses I can cut down my time to about 2/3 of what I took today. 

One thing I noticed about the ETS is that it easily changed speeds - whether it was my technique or the vacuum hose brushing against it is something I'll have to figure out.


----------



## tjbnwi

Dan_Watson said:


> 16 hrs ahead. Almost paid for itself on day one.


Most times the price of these tools appears out of line, until you put them to work. 

With the 30 day return policy if you're not sure purchase the tool and put it to work. If it does not do what you need return it (remember accessories are not covered under the return policy). 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I’ve got some questions. I’ve searched the Festool site and Fog with no Joy:

1.	[STRIKE]Do you cut inside a finished room with your Kapex?[/STRIKE]

Seriously – here’s my questions. I’m looking at the Surfix stuff for some furniture pieces we make.

1.	What type of oil (heavy duty) is Festool selling?
2.	The available system (package) for Surfix is only supported for the 150. Can they adjust a package for a 125?


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’ve got some questions. I’ve searched the Festool site and Fog with no Joy:
> 
> 1.	[STRIKE]Do you cut inside a finished room with your Kapex?[/STRIKE]
> 
> Seriously – here’s my questions. I’m looking at the Surfix stuff for some furniture pieces we make.
> 
> 1.	What type of oil (heavy duty) is Festool selling?
> 2.	The available system (package) for Surfix is only supported for the 150. Can they adjust a package for a 125?


Depends on the room. :clap:

I'm not sure who makes the oil. I use all three of their oils, all work well. The One Step has a wax in it. 

The system works best on larger surfaces. 

You have to cut the Viles to fit the 125. I have to cut some to fit the 90 this week.

This Ipe top has 2 coats of outdoor oil on it. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Two coats of Heavy Duty oil.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Thanks for the info Tom – Nice pieces there :thumbsup:

I’m not really interested in “who” might make their finish as much as I’m questioning “what” type of finish is it?

Is it a Tung, Danish, Teak oil? And more importantly:

Is it child and/or food safe?

Paul


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Thanks for the info Tom – Nice pieces there :thumbsup:
> 
> I’m not really interested in “who” might make their finish as much as I’m questioning “what” type of finish is it?
> 
> Is it a Tung, Danish, Teak oil? And more importantly:
> 
> Is it child and/or food safe?
> 
> Paul


Thanks.

Linseed. 

See links in responses #5 & 9. 

http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/surfix-question/?nowap

I really do like the Suffix kit. Small items it's hard to power buff, application is still a breeze with the bulbs.

Tom


----------



## skillman

Be meaning to register my festool's . Finally did it last night . I like that you can add photo of your receipt for records . 

ETS 125 EQ 
TS 55 REQ
CT Midi


----------



## elementbldrs

Just dipped my balls in the festool kook aid...


----------



## J L

elementbldrs said:


> Just dipped my balls in the festool kook aid...


Green balls for saint patty's day. Classic!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

elementbldrs said:


> Just dipped my balls in the festool kook aid...



Well what did you get?


----------



## elementbldrs

RO150 and Midi.


----------



## brhokel606

I checked on my Kapex and CT 26, saw still on order with no ship date....crap, have a fine interior finishing job starting soon, got my fingers crossed.

I did get my CT accessory kit today from ACME, I'll post pics tomorrow


----------



## Deckhead

Unfortunately for you those balls no longer belong to you. 2 years ago I was laughing at people for buying festool. Now, the only things I dont have are the planer and routers, plan on buying a planer soon for a rustic dresser Im supposed to make and going to use the undulating head. If you only buy a tool that will be paid for by the job you end up with a lots of stuff fast.

Oh yeah, no planex either but I dont do drywall, if so, its very little amounts at a time.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Deckhead said:


> Unfortunately for you those balls no longer belong to you. 2 years ago I was laughing at people for buying festool. Now, the only things I dont have are the planer and routers, plan on buying a planer soon for a rustic dresser Im supposed to make and going to use the undulating head. If you only buy a tool that will be paid for by the job you end up with a lots of stuff fast.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, no planex either but I dont do drywall, if so, its very little amounts at a time.



If you have run out of us stuff to buy get on festool UK. There's a bunch on there you will want.


----------



## Deckhead

BCConstruction said:


> If you have run out of us stuff to buy get on festool UK. There's a bunch on there you will want.


I need bunches of accessories, I have very few. No tables either, just tools.


----------



## elementbldrs

Now that I have one in the real world, kinda disappointed how small the systainers are. 

Guess I'm used to the tough boxes. I doubt I'll add these to my arsenal unless there's a festool in it.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

elementbldrs said:


> Now that I have one in the real world, kinda disappointed how small the systainers are.
> 
> Guess I'm used to the tough boxes. I doubt I'll add these to my arsenal unless there's a festool in it.


I prefer the smaller foot print. easier to carry with one stack in each hand. 

You would be amazed at the amount of stuff you can fit in an empty one.


----------



## Mort

There's a thread on FOG where these German kids made some out of wood. They have plans to download them, both types. I'm going to make a double wide one for my sawzall.


----------



## BBuild

Mort said:


> There's a thread on FOG where these German kids made some out of wood. They have plans to download them, both types. I'm going to make a double wide one for my sawzall.


Have you seen the midi systainers yet? I think there like 20" wide. Eventually I will get a midi sys2 with a red latch for my sawzall but I have to reconfigured my shelving first.


----------



## mnld

Mort said:


> There's a thread on FOG where these German kids made some out of wood. They have plans to download them, both types. I'm going to make a double wide one for my sawzall.


You mean one of these? Made this one a couple of years ago. Held up real well. Keep planning on making some more. Don't use 3/4 oak cabinet grade plywood for the box though. Got kinda heavy.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BBuild said:


> Have you seen the midi systainers yet? I think there like 20" wide. Eventually I will get a midi sys2 with a red latch for my sawzall but I have to reconfigured my shelving first.


Maxi systainers.


----------



## Tom M

Hey Warner I think you need to make a video sanding drywall with the planex wearing a black tux. Just to show us how well the dust collection works. :laughing:

knew a guy that used to swear he can karnak anything in a tux. Made me think of Festool and the black room/kapex conversation.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I don't own a Planex, or a tux, or a suit for that matter.


----------



## Juan80

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I prefer the smaller foot print. easier to carry with one stack in each hand.
> 
> 
> 
> You would be amazed at the amount of stuff you can fit in an empty one.


----------



## BBuild

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Maxi systainers.


I think a Maxi sys would be a little overkill for just a sawzall. That and it wouldn't work well with my van shelving. The only downside to the Midi sys is they can't connect directly to classics or a vac.


----------



## overanalyze

My partner was cutting some aluminum cleat material on the Kapex the other day. The blade grabbed and wedged a piece of aluminum up in the blade!! Cracked the plastic guard. We thought it was f***ked :-( It vibrated bad. Took the blade off and tried another blade. Similar vibration but less. Ran it with the blade off and just the blade washers. I could see them spin off camber. Ordered new ones and crossed my fingers. Put them on today and everything is good! The blade was also slightly bent. Thankfully it was our cheaper Oshlun.


----------



## brhokel606

Well, Kapex and CT26 not in yet but these came today!


----------



## Mort

Dang, I didn't realize they had midi/maxi systainers. 

Call me cheap/poor/ridiculous, but I don't see the point in paying $100 for an empty plastic box. I know its a cool box, but unless it has at least $80 worth of stuff in it, I don't think its worth $100. I can make something more custom for way less than that. 

For me, time I got. Money I don't.


----------



## brhokel606

Mort said:


> Dang, I didn't realize they had midi/maxi systainers.
> 
> Call me cheap/poor/ridiculous, but I don't see the point in paying $100 for an empty plastic box. I know its a cool box, but unless it has at least $80 worth of stuff in it, I don't think its worth $100. I can make something more custom for way less than that.
> 
> For me, time I got. Money I don't.


The kit I got was $155 for everything, heck the hose alone is over $100, thought it was a good deal. Systanier was a little bigger than needed to be but I'm good with it.


----------



## john5mt

Mort said:


> Dang, I didn't realize they had midi/maxi systainers.
> 
> Call me cheap/poor/ridiculous, but I don't see the point in paying $100 for an empty plastic box. I know its a cool box, but unless it has at least $80 worth of stuff in it, I don't think its worth $100. I can make something more custom for way less than that.
> 
> For me, time I got. Money I don't.


Once you get enough tools that live in systainers, the ease and quickness of getting rolled out and packed up youll start buying those over priced boxes.  happened to me


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

john5mt said:


> Once you get enough tools that live in systainers, the ease and quickness of getting rolled out and packed up youll start buying those over priced boxes.  happened to me



If I could I would put everything into sustainer in my trailer one day.


----------



## Calidecks

Just don't sit on one at break. I only wiegh a buck fifty and mine cracked.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Just don't sit on one at break. I only wiegh a buck fifty and mine cracked.



I weight 200 and sit on mine every lunch time. Use them as stools too to reach stuff. Also stacked them about 15 Systainers high full of tools and never cracked one. 

prob just took a hard knock from something else and you sitting on it made it worse. 

It did have a bottom fall out of an old systainer once.


----------



## brhokel606

Party Time!!! They came in today! Gonna be a fun weekend, now to push the siding job off for a couple days, LOL.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

BCConstruction said:


> I weight 200 and sit on mine every lunch time. Use them as stools too to reach stuff. Also stacked them about 15 Systainers high full of tools and never cracked one.
> 
> prob just took a hard knock from something else and you sitting on it made it worse.
> 
> It did have a bottom fall out of an old systainer once.


I have broken 3. I have a sys 2 full of plumbing stuff. I tossed it through a crawl space and hit a rock or something and put a small hole in the bottom.

I had a 10 foot long 4x4 fall on a lid and cracked it. I am still using that one though. 

I broke a corner of one when it was 10 degrees out or so. 

3 out of 25 or so over the course of almost 8 years of vigorous use.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I have broken 3. I have a sys 2 full of plumbing stuff. I tossed it through a crawl space and hit a rock or something and put a small hole in the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> I had a 10 foot long 4x4 fall on a lid and cracked it. I am still using that one though.
> 
> 
> 
> I broke a corner of one when it was 10 degrees out or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 3 out of 25 or so over the course of almost 8 years of vigorous use.



I'm not super careful with mine but where mine get a lot of hard hits is when I don't strap them in on trailer and they all tip over and hit hard. None broken yet from that. I really expected them to be much more delicate than they are though. My sortainer has most weight in it though. That has to have at least 70-80lbs of stuff in it and still intact.


----------



## Home wood

Just picked up the DTS 400 to go with my Planex and ct36ac.
Works great for the detail work that the planex leaves behind.


----------



## tjbnwi

Paul,

Another project finished with Surfix. QSWO, 2 coats of Outdoor oil. I was able to apply with supplied pads, due to shape had to buff by hand.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Is that the trapeze for over your bed? You guys in Indiana think of everything. :laughing:


----------



## duburban

what is that, someone getting married?


----------



## schaefercs

So I sold my ts55eq and bought the ts55req. I mostly wanted to upgrade because I couldn't stand the old style systainer but there are a couple new features I'm looking forward to as well (and cause I like new toys). Beat the price increase too.


----------



## David7586

My vote in the hat goes for trellis! Girlfriend wants tens of them in the yard.


----------



## tjbnwi

duburban said:


> what is that, someone getting married?


Youngest daughter. The trellis will be theirs to keep for the back yard. 

Next a ribbon box. 

Tom


----------



## Agility

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



schaefercs said:


> View attachment 159753
> 
> So I sold my ts55eq and bought the ts55req. I mostly wanted to upgrade because I couldn't stand the old style systainer but there are a couple new features I'm looking forward to as well (and cause I like new toys). Beat the price increase too.



Can you elaborate on the upgrades? I just got the ts55req and love it. I'd never used a track saw before but after one cut I knew I was hooked. Just curious what's different about this model than the last.

My very first cut on the saw was onsite on a scrap piece of hardwood, practicing for a weird flooring transition. The track was so accurate and the cut was so clean that I wound up using it. I almost went home, I couldn't believe it.


----------



## tjbnwi

The


Agility said:


> Can you elaborate on the upgrades? I just got the ts55req and love it. I'd never used a track saw before but after one cut I knew I was hooked. Just curious what's different about this model than the last.
> 
> My very first cut on the saw was onsite on a scrap piece of hardwood, practicing for a weird flooring transition. The track was so accurate and the cut was so clean that I wound up using it. I almost went home, I couldn't believe it.


Differences;

R can bevel -1° To 47°. E is 0°- 45°. 

R can cut flat along on the blade side of the saw body, the E cannot. 

R you can leave the outside splinter gaurd on for all bevel cuts. E you cannot have the outside splinter on over 10°. 

R accepts a clear viewing window in place of the splinter gaurd, E does not. 

R has slightly better dust collection. 

R comes with an Imperial depth scale to cover the metric scale. 

R has dual scales, on/off rail. E is single scale. 

Bevel lock is better on the E. 

R goes in the Systainer handle right as viewed from the front. E goes in the Systainer handle left as viewed from the front. May not seem like a big deal until you have both out. 

Tom


----------



## Rich D.

Just got the installer cleaning set. It was suppose to be in a sys 4 but it came in a 5? Is that the new thing?

First impressions... It's okay nothing to jump up and down about for 240$. The extension tubes are stupid. The way they connect didn't seem thought out. Just a friction fit that will probably wear out and loosen up over time. Extremely hard to put together new out of the box. 

What's with this green antistaic hose? The thing is so stiff I cant even fit it in the systainer. Honestly I can't fit it back in the systainer at all without the sides bowing. I wish it was the planex hose. That thing is super flexible


----------



## Nick R

Rich D. said:


> Just got the installer cleaning set. It was suppose to be in a sys 4 but it came in a 5? Is that the new thing?
> 
> First impressions... It's okay nothing to jump up and down about for 240$. The extension tubes are stupid. The way they connect didn't seem thought out. Just a friction fit that will probably wear out and loosen up over time. Extremely hard to put together new out of the box.
> 
> What's with this green antistaic hose? The thing is so stiff I cant even fit it in the systainer. Honestly I can't fit it back in the systainer at all without the sides bowing. I wish it was the planex hose. That thing is super flexible



Mine came in a 5, bought in July. I just coil up the hose, stick the ends together, put inside, then stick the floor tool in the middle of the coil. I felt the same way after I bought it, but I use the hose a bunch with my saws, and cleaning up floors is enjoyable now.


----------



## Rich D.

The floor tool may be the culprit.. they show it at the bottom but I'll try sticking it in the middle. Does the hose get more flexible with use?


----------



## Nick R

I would say yes, but I still do a dance to keep it from getting wacky when cleaning a larger floor area. However it's only been a few months so far.


----------



## elementbldrs

Can someone clue me into why the midi does not accept the various cleaning kits? Only the smallest one.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

My tradesman kit came in a sys 4, 6+ years ago. Took a 2hile to figure out how to get it all back in there, now I carry a few extra parts with it in there.

My steel tubes still fit together nice and tight.

I just used it with my midi today


----------



## tjbnwi

elementbldrs said:


> Can someone clue me into why the midi does not accept the various cleaning kits? Only the smallest one.


I don't understand the question. The Mini and Midi will accept any cleaning kit. The only kit/hose incompatablity is the Okanex hose to the Compact Clean Kit. 

I love the Tradesman with the steel tubes. After a few tune you'll be an expert at putting it back in the Sys. Those tubes will not wear or come lose. 

Tom


----------



## elementbldrs

I was solely going off of their catalog matrix. Only shows the basic checked off for midi.


----------



## tjbnwi

elementbldrs said:


> I was solely going off of their catalog matrix. Only shows the basic checked off for midi.


As if they would know. 

Tom


----------



## Agility

I picked up the OF1400 yesterday, along with the guide rail and edge guide accessories. Should the router have come with an imperial scale sticker like my TS55REQ? I couldn't find one tucked in my manual or hiding at the bottom of the systainer.


----------



## overanalyze

Nope. Ebay. A few different people selling them.


----------



## AustinDB

can someone describe the thermal safety behaviour for the TS55req? I'm going through a lot of 3/4 cherry and it's cut out a few times. Let it sit for five seconds and it fires back up. The CT keeps going, so it's the saw, not the V supply.


----------



## Johnny_5

72chevy4x4 said:


> can someone describe the thermal safety behaviour for the TS55req? I'm going through a lot of 3/4 cherry and it's cut out a few times. Let it sit for five seconds and it fires back up. The CT keeps going, so it's the saw, not the V supply.


When it gets too hot, it turns off. Once it cools a little, it turns back on. :thumbsup:


----------



## AustinDB

it didn't shut down, it throttled down, where the speed went very low and seemed to mildly oscillate.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

72chevy4x4 said:


> it didn't shut down, it throttled down, where the speed went very low and seemed to mildly oscillate.



The motor has to run or it won't cool itself off. 

What blade are you using?


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I picked up a MFT/3 on Saturday. I’m thinking about getting a couple of MFT/3 Basics before Wednesday. It just seems stupid that the table only is only $100 less than the full set-up.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I picked up a MFT/3 on Saturday. I’m thinking about getting a couple of MFT/3 Basics before Wednesday. It just seems stupid that the table only is only $100 less than the full set-up.



The extra rail and couple parts is worth the extra 100 bucks.

I have been trying to get them to offer one with clamps instead of the whole fence and rail thing.

Personally, I have used the fence and protractor once in 6 years (cutting aluminum soffits:laughing


----------



## AustinDB

makes sense, I didn't consider running the motor under no load to cool it off. 

brand new blade, but same tooth count as what came with the saw, 48t I think.


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> makes sense, I didn't consider running the motor under no load to cool it off.
> 
> brand new blade, but same tooth count as what came with the saw, 48t I think.


I assume from your statement it is not a Festool blade. 

Get a Festool 28 tooth blade. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

I use my MFT 3's daily, have one set up just for cross cutting. 

Use them so much I just bought 5 used ones. 

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> I use my MFT 3's daily, have one set up just for cross cutting.
> 
> Use them so much I just bought 5 used ones.
> 
> Tom



So how many do you have now? 8?


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> So how many do you have now? 8?


Yes.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Nice. Did you get the 5 from FOG?


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> makes sense, I didn't consider running the motor under no load to cool it off.
> 
> brand new blade, but same tooth count as what came with the saw, 48t I think.


I straight line rip a lot of material. This video is QSWO and maple 5/4 each. All done with the 48 tooth blade.

I also rip 8/4 with the 55.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjFXJDpmO-I

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Nice. Did you get the 5 from FOG?


3 from FOG, I wanted all 5 but he committed two. The other two were local.

I also purchased the Multi Function Stool from the person in Ohio. 

$1300.00 investment.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Agility said:


> Like this?
> 
> View attachment 164066


Or these.


Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yysqKL_PyvA

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

indeed.

(burst of dust at beginning of cut is because the first 6-8" had been cut already.....then decided I wanted to take a video of it)

https://youtu.be/lYroRp1KtFc


----------



## RichVT

Any one need a brand new 4.2 18V battery? I got it at this year's Festool Connect and I don't need it so I'd like to pass it on to someone that does. I'm guessing it will cost about 5 bucks to ship so make me an offer over $5. I'll send it to whoever makes me the best offer via P.M.

Rich


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

$6?


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> $6?


Well played!


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I don't even have a tool that uses it yet. :laughing:

I will probably get the cordless Carvex though.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I would take it for my syslight but I aint got a charger to charge it.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I would take it for my syslight but I aint got a charger to charge it.


So does a festool charger cost 500 bucks?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

californiadecks said:


> so does a festool charger cost 500 bucks?



$65


----------



## Kolbym

Are the chargers dust less?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Yes


----------



## Morning Wood

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

If you were gonna me to buy a domino which size would you get? I'm going to use the thing for assembling smaller parts like cabinet boxes and face frames, but also I'd like to use it for larger stuff like coffee tables and gates.


----------



## overanalyze

If want to use it for gates the 700 is what you probably you need. 

I have the 500 and haven't needed the 700 for anything, but I haven't built anything large either.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I have the 500 and use it for cabinets and a variety of other smaller stuff.

Check out threads over on FOG about it. I think you can do two stacked dominos instead of one on bigger stuff. 

I think it would come down to how often you want the larger capacity.


----------



## Morning Wood

My wallet wants the small one that's for sure. Mostly I'd use it for finish work I'd guess. A few one off pieces of furniture for myself now and then.


----------



## overanalyze

Great point Travis. Stacking larger dominos can get you by on a few larger joints.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> Great point Travis. Stacking larger dominos can get you by on a few larger joints.



Assuming it's ok. I know it would take more time than a single one but if it's a rare use situation that might be fine. 

That's why I said check FOG on it. Think I've read over there it's ok but I'm not sure. I'm still learning a lot about wood joinery.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Do what I did and get the 700 and get the adapters from Seneca to run the 500 bits. I have done everything from cabinets to pergolas with it. The truck is not to use the 500 then that way you know no better too.


----------



## tjbnwi

You can stack or stagger Dominos. Makes for a very strong joint.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

I trusted Dominos enough to keep our grandchild safe.

https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/Cradle

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

I have 2 500's and a 700. All of them are matched. I can set them up for different cuts on the same piece and know they will fit together. I use the 500's twice as often as the 700.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

500 for me, bigger stuff and I have a couple mortisers.

I did build a few Ipe gates with my 500.


----------



## duburban

The broken jigsaw thread got locked at FOG, what did you guys think of that? 

I know a few of you chimed in supporting Festool. I agree that abuse is abuse regardless of intention or not, I don't agree with not letting that conversation play out though. If expectations need to be adjusted then we need to hash that out.


----------



## tjbnwi

I did respond to the thread. Mine was the car analogy.

Lesson learned, if something breaks no matter what, the blade or accessory was a Festool item.

In a previous thread on FOG about the CMT fiber cement blade, I was quoted the same reason it would void the warranty on the TS-55. Only issue with their statement is the blade falls in the saws blade specs set forth by Festool and the owners manual lists fiber cement as one of the approved products the saw can cut. 

Tom


----------



## Mort

I'm guessing the Moss-Magnusson Act does not extend to power tools? Shame.


----------



## duburban

Good point. The idea that the blade wasn't Festool so it wasn't covered was bogus. I just want them to be honest about what is and isn't covered. 
If the screw impact isn't covered then thats ok, but don't sell me the idea that everything is covered for 3 years. 

What happens over there is all lolly pops until someone has an issue and then its talked about for 8 hrs and the thread goes down. 

I have a bosch jig saw that I'd be willing to sacrifice for a screw test.


----------



## duburban

Mort said:


> I'm guessing the Moss-Magnusson Act does not extend to power tools? Shame.


Whats that?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

duburban said:


> Whats that?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act


----------



## aptpupil

Didn't see the thread, what was the issue?


----------



## tjbnwi

aptpupil said:


> Didn't see the thread, what was the issue?


It broke.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

duburban said:


> Good point. The idea that the blade wasn't Festool so it wasn't covered was bogus. I just want them to be honest about what is and isn't covered.
> If the screw impact isn't covered then thats ok, but don't sell me the idea that everything is covered for 3 years.
> 
> What happens over there is all lolly pops until someone has an issue and then its talked about for 8 hrs and the thread goes down.
> 
> I have a bosch jig saw that I'd be willing to sacrifice for a screw test.


I agree on the blade issue. That should have never been part of the warranty denial. 

Abuse because he jammed the blade---maybe.

Tom


----------



## Inner10

Has anyone bought a Sys Cart? I returned the Sys Roll 100 as it's a flimsy piece of sh!t.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> Has anyone bought a Sys Cart? I returned the Sys Roll 100 as it's a flimsy piece of sh!t.


I have that sys roll 100 and never use it.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> I have that sys roll 100 and never use it.


I ordered it...then returned it. I was expecting something better.

I have two of the systainer wheel bases and I really like the new one, huge improvement on the old style with the small wheels.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

I have 4 Sys Carts.

Use them all the time.

Carry from top handle on stack.....
as soon as you hit flat ground/flooring....roll away.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Californiadecks said:


> I have that sys roll 100 and never use it.


Wait...

I'm getting all lingo'ed out.

You talking the hand truck thing?

I'll take it off your hands.


----------



## Calidecks

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Wait...
> 
> I'm getting all lingo'ed out.
> 
> You talking the hand truck thing?
> 
> I'll take it off your hands.


Right now it's taking up space in my garage that's more valuable to me then that cart. It was 175 bucks. You'd have to pay shipping.


----------



## Calidecks

I'll give it to you l. But you pay shipping


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I use the sys roll 100 hand carty thing. I didn't find it flimsy, but don't find it particularly handy for shop use.


----------



## J L

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I use the sys roll 100 hand carty thing. I didn't find it flimsy, but don't find it particularly handy for shop use.


Not heavy duty enough to move old iron?


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I use the sys roll 100 hand carty thing. I didn't find it flimsy, but don't find it particularly handy for shop use.


I really had champagne dreams when I saw the pictures of it...but it's bulky, rickety and doesn't collapse like I imagined it would.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I've got two of the sys carts. They are nice. I like that the systainers lock to the cart so you can roll it when you can, and pick it up over things when you need to.

Makes it easy to move the stack to exactly where you want it.


----------



## Calidecks

This the one


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Californiadecks said:


> This the one



I'll take it if all I have to pay is shipping.


----------



## Calidecks

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I'll take it if all I have to pay is shipping.


The offer was to BRG first.


----------



## Kolbym

If he passes I'll take it.


----------



## Calidecks

Didn't TylerWalker have second pick? I'm just trying to be fair here.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Californiadecks said:


> The offer was to BRG first.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Calidecks

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Tried to pm you, your box is full. I'll pm you my email. I've got it broke down screws in there place and the parts in the drawer. Refer back to this post if your in need of reverse engineering. :laughing:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Morning Wood said:


> If you were gonna me to buy a domino which size would you get? I'm going to use the thing for assembling smaller parts like cabinet boxes and face frames, but also I'd like to use it for larger stuff like coffee tables and gates.


big one.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Californiadecks said:


> Tried to pm you, your box is full. I'll pm you my email. I've got it broke down screws in there place and the parts in the drawer. Refer back to this post if your in need of reverse engineering. :laughing:


I deleted them.

You have my eternal gratitude... 

(You have any use for parallel guides? I used em one time.....not my thing)


----------



## tjbnwi

I have the Sys Roll (and Sys Cart), between the hotel job and a customer who's main level is 35 concrete stairs above the street I really like the Sys Roll.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

No but thanks. I'm a mafell loyalist now. :laughing:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> I trusted Dominos enough to keep our grandchild safe.
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/Cradle
> 
> Tom


I trust with a lot more. When I built my first pergola I was doing pull up's ... not even a wiggle. I've built at least 8-10 more with the domino xl. very strong, no notching, or angled screws and clean.


----------



## Mort

Regarding the Magnusson-Moss Act, here is a quote from the Wikipedia page:

"Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty.[7] This is commonly referred to as the "tie-in sales" provisions,[8] and is frequently mentioned in the context of third-party computer parts, such as memory and hard drives."

So Bosch blades are a-ok. 

It is used frequently in the automotive aftermarket industry. The burden of proof is on the manufacturer to prove the aftermarket part caused the failure.


----------



## brhokel606

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> I deleted them.
> 
> You have my eternal gratitude...
> 
> (You have any use for parallel guides? I used em one time.....not my thing)


I do! I do! I have been wanting to buy them!


----------



## jetdawg

Californiadecks said:


> No but thanks. I'm a mafell loyalist now. :laughing:


seriously?


----------



## Kolbym

What router do you guys use most? My trim router just crapped so I'm in the market for a new one.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

I use my Bosch colt the most. The next in line is my 1010


----------



## rrk

tjbnwi said:


> So was I, probably less than a minute.
> 
> Tom


sure you did


----------



## Calidecks

rrk said:


> sure you did


Had you of said it only took one minute, he would of said 30 seconds. You can't win on this thread.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

If everything is out and ready beceause you are already working, set up would take just as long either way (not going to just tilt the 16" blade and raise it up and cut). Cut time is really no different. 

Less chance of things going wrong with the rail saw. 

Tom has a festool set up that he uses in his shop, some people have stationary equipment they use and just travel with their festools.


----------



## Deckhead

WarnerConstInc. said:


> If everything is out and ready beceause you are already working, set up would take just as long either way (not going to just tilt the 16" blade and raise it up and cut). Cut time is really no different.
> 
> Less chance of things going wrong with the rail saw.
> 
> Tom has a festool set up that he uses in his shop, some people have stationary equipment they use and just travel with their festools.


Exactly.

Watching Tom's videos has me believing he has really used his festool stuff to the max for shop work. Being as I use all traditional equipment in the shop I've never even thought of most of this stuff with festool. 

Tom, I wanted to say I've pointed quite a few people to your youtube channel. If one actually watches what you do rather than just opening a mouth and letting brains fall out, one would realize you are a wealth of i fo on differing techniques. Thanks bro, you've helped me several times.


----------



## AustinDB

I'm cutting a lot of MDF base (on the flat) and noticed my technique has a LOT to do w/ the amount of dust not getting caught. When I drop the blade on top of the leading edge, there is a lot sawdust spraying all over, but when dropping and plowing through the leading edge, it captures almost everything except for a little of the thicker stuff. 

I'm sure I 'knew' this, but apparently forgot until I saw sawdust all over the saw.


----------



## Calidecks

A boinger!


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> A boinger!


Those are the best organizers I've ever used.

I love that nothing ever ends up out of it's compartment and it's just about impossible to pick it up unlatched and spill everything.


----------



## BBuild

Californiadecks said:


> A boinger!


You sure do love those front handles. There a little too pricey for me. 

What are those black plastic thingys?


----------



## Calidecks

BBuild said:


> You sure do love those front handles. There a little too pricey for me.
> 
> What are those black plastic thingys?


I have to have the front handles to pull them out of my tool box. The only issue is, my guys grab them when the lid is open just to move them out of the way and the handle comes off and they spill. 

The black thingys are rail connectors for composite handrails.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> A boinger!


I have 6 of those, but I despise the fact that they are so shallow. Festool needs to make a Sys 2 and Sys 3 version.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> I have to have the front handles to pull them out of my tool box. The only issue is, my guys grab them when the lid is open just to move them out of the way and the handle comes off and they spill.
> 
> The black thingys are rail connectors for composite handrails.


Hm, guess that makes one of my favorite things about them a moot point now. That's what I hate about every other organizer like that. It's too darn easy to spill them.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Those are the best organizers I've ever used.
> 
> I love that nothing ever ends up out of it's compartment and it's just about impossible to pick it up unlatched and spill everything.


When you pick them up from the front handles the handle comes off and they can spill. As you can see in the pic. It's not often though.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Inner10 said:


> I have 6 of those, but I despise the fact that they are so shallow. Festool needs to make a Sys 2 and Sys 3 version.


That would be handy. I bought some of the extra boxes and mix and match throughout my kits. I only have 4. Plan to buy some more soon...


----------



## Inner10

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> That would be handy. I bought some of the extra boxes and mix and match throughout my kits. I only have 4. Plan to buy some more soon...


I'm thinking of taking a sys3 and putting in dividers instead. I may just use the ones with the little coloured bins for screws only. But I really like the sortainer for screws.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> I have 6 of those, but I despise the fact that they are so shallow. Festool needs to make a Sys 2 and Sys 3 version.


I certainly would like to keep more in them. I can bet overloading them would be an issue though


----------



## BBuild

Californiadecks said:


> I have to have the front handles to pull them out of my tool box. The only issue is, my guys grab them when the lid is open just to move them out of the way and the handle comes off and they spill.
> 
> The black thingys are rail connectors for composite handrails.


I should of know those were for handrails. I'm used to seeing the white clips that are used with Azek rails but they look very similar. I would assume you use Trex rails though.


----------



## Calidecks

What I thought was cool, is you can remove a bin, transport them and still nothing moves or spills


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> What I thought was cool, is you can remove a bin, transport them and still nothing moves or spills


It only takes cleaning up from a couple spills from a Stanley organizer like I had to pay for the Festool one instead. And yes, you can flip the thing any and all directions with it locked and nothing moves no matter how empty or full the containers are.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Inner10 said:


> I'm thinking of taking a sys3 and putting in dividers instead. I may just use the ones with the little coloured bins for screws only. But I really like the sortainer for screws.


I don't have any sortainers yet. I might get some. I like these ones a lot though. I have 3 set up with screws and anchors and 1 with nails.


----------



## Calidecks

BBuild said:


> I should of know those were for handrails. I'm used to seeing the white clips that are used with Azek rails but they look very similar. I would assume you use Trex rails though.


They come in handy when I split a rail length.


----------



## brhokel606

I used the Kapex this week for the first time really this week, been doing siding. I LOVE the saw!!! I also used the trenching capability and absolutely love that feature, it can be set deadon and would probably buy just for that feature.

Anyway, just wanted to post that I am very happy with the Kapex, looking at adding Fastcap fence yet.


----------



## J L

Using the domino to make some notches for hanger racks for file cabinet cabinets. :thumbup:


----------



## Spencer

brhokel606 said:


> I used the Kapex this week for the first time really this week, been doing siding. I LOVE the saw!!! I also used the trenching capability and absolutely love that feature, it can be set deadon and would probably buy just for that feature.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, just wanted to post that I am very happy with the Kapex, looking at adding Fastcap fence yet.



I just got the best fence. Zero regrets. Wondering why on earth I waited. Go for it.


----------



## brhokel606

Spencer said:


> I just got the best fence. Zero regrets. Wondering why on earth I waited. Go for it.


Yeah, I saw your post (on TBA)...cash to spend right now is the only thing stoping me! Went through a lot of cash this spring on tools, lol.


----------



## Spencer

brhokel606 said:


> Yeah, I saw your post (on TBA)...cash to spend right now is the only thing stoping me! Went through a lot of cash this spring on tools, lol.


I'm the exact opposite. I did pretty good about not spending on tools thus far this year, then I landed this job trimming this $2mil house on a ritzy lake. I can see its my ticket in and want to make sure I have everything dialed in to look elite and produce the best work they've seen. So I've been buying a few things...domino coming in the morning.


----------



## brhokel606

Spencer said:


> I'm the exact opposite. I did pretty good about not spending on tools thus far this year, then I landed this job trimming this $2mil house on a ritzy lake. I can see its my ticket in and want to make sure I have everything dialed in to look elite and produce the best work they've seen. So I've been buying a few things...domino coming in the morning.


I think you are exactly right on the tools when high quality jobs are coming. I sure have learned in the past couple years that they make all the difference in the world. The Kapex really sold me while using it in building some cabinets this week, I was actually a little irritated at myself for not getting it sooner. The Best Fence I think will be exactly what I want in quality too. I'm trying to follow your lead, LOL.


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> I'm the exact opposite. I did pretty good about not spending on tools thus far this year, then I landed this job trimming this $2mil house on a ritzy lake. I can see its my ticket in and want to make sure I have everything dialed in to look elite and produce the best work they've seen. So I've been buying a few things...domino coming in the morning.


Best to you on the trim out. Stay neat and organized.

Documernt everything, any changes, whether your charging for the change or not get a change order signed. Do your accounting every week at a minimum.

These dream jobs can quickly turn into a nightmare, watch your spending. I've seen it happen more than once.

Forgot---make sure you calibrate your Domino.

Tom


----------



## Spencer

tjbnwi said:


> Best to you on the trim out. Stay neat and organized.
> 
> Documernt everything, any changes, whether your charging for the change or not get a change order signed. Do your accounting every week at a minimum.
> 
> These dream jobs can quickly turn into a nightmare, watch your spending. I've seen it happen more than once.
> 
> Forgot---make sure you calibrate your Domino.
> 
> Tom



Thanks. My gut feels good about this one so far. No bad vibes. I'll probably start a thread about this job. Lots to learn on this one. I'd like to post how I'm doing things and see how others do different. 

I'm getting paid hourly. They are paying the high end of my hourly rate. Turn in hours at end of week and get check the following Friday. Only time will tell but I haven't been given a reason to be concerned at this point. 

Thanks for the tip on domino calibration. I will look into that.


----------



## tjbnwi

At the end of each day or when you move onto something else during the day, make a note of it. This will do 2 things for you, begins to build a "how long does it take database" and gives you something to refer back to if you are questioned about your time submission.

Tom


----------



## PrestigeR&D

Hourly.....:blink:......

Well,

Best of luck to you......


----------



## Spencer

PrestigeR&D said:


> Hourly.....:blink:......
> 
> 
> 
> Well,
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck to you......



Believe me. I said the same thing but that was the deal they proposed and when I looked at the job I could see why. 

Like I said, I'm getting a check every week so the risk is pretty low vs high reward.


----------



## StrongTower

Spencer said:


> Believe me. I said the same thing but that was the deal they proposed and when I looked at the job I could see why.
> 
> Like I said, I'm getting a check every week so the risk is pretty low vs high reward.



Spencer, there's been many times on a huge custom, that I wish I did it hourly. Those houses could/will have some changes that throw the efficiency in the toilet.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Yeah hourly is the best way with work like that. You never know fully what your walking into. They can end up as change order nightmares.


----------



## overanalyze

They will appreciate seeing an efficient setup too. It will tell them you are serious and won't be milking the hourly thing.


----------



## Spencer

overanalyze said:


> They will appreciate seeing an efficient setup too. It will tell them you are serious and won't be milking the hourly thing.


Amen to that. I'm be officially setting up shop on Monday morning. I'm curious to see what kind of reactions I'm gonna get from the super and owner.


----------



## Creter

Spencer said:


> Amen to that. I'm be officially setting up shop on Monday morning. I'm curious to see what kind of reactions I'm gonna get from the super and owner.


Hey good luck on the project. Stay relaxed and you will do great which in turn will lead to more similar jobs.


----------



## Spencer

Can any of you guys tell me what this hooks to on the kapex. I know where it hooks on the blade guard but can't figure out where the other end hooks to. Thanks


----------



## Spencer

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Of coarse I mess with if for a half hour. Decide to ask on ct. Go back out to the saw and instantly see where it hooks on. Thanks anyway. I got it.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

It appears to me that the OF1400 is the correct choice (among Festool's offerings) for a basic cabinet-making router. Right now mostly dadoing; routing profiles if I can't avoid it. I have the tracks and the dust collection. Are there any of the accessories that are must-have?


----------



## J L

CarpenterSFO said:


> It appears to me that the OF1400 is the correct choice (among Festool's offerings) for a basic cabinet-making router. Right now mostly dadoing; routing profiles if I can't avoid it. I have the tracks and the dust collection. Are there any of the accessories that are must-have?


If you're doing shelf pin holes get the LR32 kit and the track. Otherwise, I plow lots of 3/4" dados with the 1400 and it doesn't even blink. Great router. Love the 1/10th of a mm adjustment.


----------



## JFM constr

CarpenterSFO said:


> It appears to me that the OF1400 is the correct choice (among Festool's offerings) for a basic cabinet-making router. Right now mostly dadoing; routing profiles if I can't avoid it. I have the tracks and the dust collection. Are there any of the accessories that are must-have?


not to be negative . i have this router . after all the extra's bet i spent 1400$ on it . a power tool repairman says these festool routers have more bearings ,which he figures under heavy use is a great thing. said he has cabinet shops who replace the bearings on those big portacables yearly . on the other hand i think you could get a bosch buy all the dust collection stuff and have the bosch router superior plunge adjustment . i am not saying the 1400 is a bad router but it just is not a standout tool . i like the collet connection method . bit change is good .dust collection ok . it compares favorable to all my other routers it just isn't a standout machine .
i have read other threds and it seems the smaller router and the biggest are machines that are more likely to impress someone .


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Edge guide is the only accessory i use with mine. 

Its a great all around router.


----------



## tjbnwi

Edge guide, get 2.

Track adapter.

Edge dust shield.

Tom


----------



## J L

tjbnwi said:


> Edge guide, get 2.
> 
> Track adapter.
> 
> Edge dust shield.
> 
> Tom


Don't the track adapter and edge dust shield come with the router? I've got them and I thought they came in the systainer with them. I could have bought them separately and struck the extra expense from my mind. :laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

J L said:


> Don't the track adapter and edge dust shield come with the router? I've got them and I thought they came in the systainer with them. I could have bought them separately and struck the extra expense from my mind. :laughing:


You're correct about the chip catcher. I don't see the rail adapter listed in the specs.

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/routers/of-1400-eq-plunge-router-574342

I'm still trying to figure out how someone has $1400.00 in a 1400 router. I have 2200's with the accessory kits and don't have $1400.00 invested in any of them.

My favorite is still the 700.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

J L said:


> Don't the track adapter and edge dust shield come with the router? I've got them and I thought they came in the systainer with them. I could have bought them separately and struck the extra expense from my mind. :laughing:



The edge dust collector does but not the track adapter. The rods come with the router but not the track adapter.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

I'm glad I asked. I would have figured that the track adapter would be in it.


----------



## JFM constr

tjbnwi said:


> You're correct about the chip catcher. I don't see the rail adapter listed in the specs.
> 
> https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/routers/of-1400-eq-plunge-router-574342
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out how someone has $1400.00 in a 1400 router. I have 2200's with the accessory kits and don't have $1400.00 invested in any of them.
> 
> My favorite is still the 700.
> 
> Tom


that was a number[1400$] i through out . after i bought all the assessories it seemed like that . I read into the OP thred that he had not bought the router and I was putting out there he might be better off getting one of the others . Like that 2200 you have .now that seems like one impressive tool . Not to say the 1400 isn't a good router .Strong ,smooth and quiet . But i miss the plunge on my bosch . and i find that switching to the wide base plate means the guide does not fit . But that is why we own so many routers isn't it .One for every project.


----------



## tjbnwi

My 1400 plunges with one hand on the grip. 

I also own a few Bosch routers, at one time they were top of the line tools. None of the new ones have worked out well for me.

Tom


----------



## JFM constr

tjbnwi said:


> My 1400 plunges with one hand on the grip.
> 
> I also own a few Bosch routers, at one time they were top of the line tools. None of the new ones have worked out well for me.
> 
> Tom


got it . sad hear that about the bosch . true it does plunge well .


----------



## Spencer

Got my domino today. This thing is amazing. I have a bunch of arched opening coming up Monday that need the arched head piece joined to the sides at a square angle. Been trying to figure out the best way to join them for an invisible joint that won't break when I have to muscle them on to the pre bent jambs. I put a domino on both sides. Kreg mini on the thin side with 1" coarse screw. Regular kreg on the thick side with a 1-1/2" screw. 

Used the setting with no wiggle room on the domino because I don't have enough space on the thin side for the extra domino space and kreg screw. Joints line up perfect and the kregs pull it together perfectly. Very impressive. 










I had it assembled for ten minutes. Took out the kreg screws and could barely get it apart. Very strong.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

JFM constr said:


> that was a number[1400$]... One for every project.


I have 4: a small older PC dedicated to dovetails, which I almost never use any more; a small Bosch that became the hinge mortiser; a Ridgid trim router that is fantastic and might have cost $100; and a bigger Makita with the same, smooth Makita motor, bearings and gears as in all Makita tools, but collet problems, lots of slop in the adjustments, etc. This new router is to replace the Makita.


----------



## JFM constr

CarpenterSFO said:


> I have 4: a small older PC dedicated to dovetails, which I almost never use any more; a small Bosch that became the hinge mortiser; a Ridgid trim router that is fantastic and might have cost $100; and a bigger Makita with the same, smooth Makita motor, bearings and gears as in all Makita tools, but collet problems, lots of slop in the adjustments, etc. This new router is to replace the Makita.


i found i really like dust collection with all my mortising .like doing door hardware . this router will be good replacement for the makita .
love all my trim/laminent type routers .i carry 4 in the truck for work .think i bought them all used . put expensive so called high end bearings in a ryobi trim router and it really made the difference .i keep 1/8",3/16",1/4" roundover and a bevel set-up all the time .
And come to think of it both my makitas are smooth .wonder if they are festool smooth . i have one P-C ,nice router but it not smooth like festool .
turn the router on and set it on your bench top and see if it sits still .that is the good test of smoothness.


----------



## brhokel606

Spencer said:


> Got my domino today. This thing is amazing. I have a bunch of arched opening coming up Monday that need the arched head piece joined to the sides at a square angle. Been trying to figure out the best way to join them for an invisible joint that won't break when I have to muscle them on to the pre bent jambs. I put a domino on both sides. Kreg mini on the thin side with 1" coarse screw. Regular kreg on the thick side with a 1-1/2" screw.
> 
> Used the setting with no wiggle room on the domino because I don't have enough space on the thin side for the extra domino space and kreg screw. Joints line up perfect and the kregs pull it together perfectly. Very impressive.
> 
> I had it assembled for ten minutes. Took out the kreg screws and could barely get it apart. Very strong.



Very nice, looks really good! Nice work


----------



## StrongTower

So I was working a long weekend and midday I pull the trigger on my Kapex to hear a slowed motor and electrical burning smell....8 months old. Thank God I had another saw onsite. Is this a common problem?


----------



## Calidecks

StrongTower said:


> So I was working a long weekend and midday I pull the trigger on my Kapex to hear a slowed motor and electrical burning smell....8 months old. Thank God I had another saw onsite. Is this a common problem?


:laughing::laughing: you have to pay 1000 dollars less for a saw if you don't want any problems. :laughing: :laughing:


----------



## StrongTower

Californiadecks said:


> :laughing::laughing: you have to pay 1000 dollars less for a saw if you don't want any problems. :laughing: :laughing:



Only took a few cuts on my Dewalt to realize the difference in dust collection... But it's been through the paces for 3+ years & counting.


----------



## csv

I bought the 1010 router a while back. The thing just feels right when using it. Makes me actually like using a router. The dust collection is really nice when cutting dados, plunging, etc. It isn't as great on the perimeter, kind of the nature of the beast I guess. As of right now the chip catcher annoys me more than helps.


----------



## Derry

https://www.festool.ie/Products/Pag...less-portable-circular-saw-HKC-55-EB-Li-Basic


----------



## rrk

How many people here have a Kapex and how many have had to send it back? quite a few
I don't think the return rate is as high on other saws, that would be a good poll.


----------



## Spencer

DaVinciRemodel said:


> They are both my seconds of each. We have a project going where we’re fighting for the RAS – time to just get another.
> 
> And the 1400 will stay in the shop while the first one stays in the truck. I also need to make that dentil out of Azek and I don’t want that white snow stuff on my one good router. (Seems like a good excuse to have a second one anyway :laughing.


Wait a sec. You mean to tell me it doesn't end after you have one of each? I'm doomed. :no:


----------



## Agility

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



tjbnwi said:


> I have the Seneca guides, they are nice.
> 
> I will get a set of the Wood Pecker in the Systainer.
> 
> Tom




So when you have the Woodpecker, Seneca, and Festool parallel guide systems, which one will you use most? Does the Woodpecker set look substantially better than the Seneca set or do you just like to have all the offerings?

I think I'm going to order the Woodpecker set in the systainer but it's like twice the cost of the Seneca system (part of that is the systainer, of course), so I'm a bit curious.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Agility said:


> So when you have the Woodpecker, Seneca, and Festool parallel guide systems, which one will you use most? Does the Woodpecker set look substantially better than the Seneca set or do you just like to have all the offerings?
> 
> I think I'm going to order the Woodpecker set in the systainer but it's like twice the cost of the Seneca system (part of that is the systainer, of course), so I'm a bit curious.



It's cause Tom is a sucker for a good tool. The Woodpecker will be the best of the 3 options based on watching their video.

I don't have any of them but was going to get the Seneca setup. I will hold off and get one, maybe two of the woodpecker guides. It would be nice to setup on two different rails and not need to move back and forth.


----------



## tjbnwi

Agility said:


> So when you have the Woodpecker, Seneca, and Festool parallel guide systems, which one will you use most? Does the Woodpecker set look substantially better than the Seneca set or do you just like to have all the offerings?
> 
> I think I'm going to order the Woodpecker set in the systainer but it's like twice the cost of the Seneca system (part of that is the systainer, of course), so I'm a bit curious.


I do not have the Festool version, don't think it was that well designed.

I will get the WP set for the field. The Seneca set stays on a rail in the shop. Saves me from having to install them and calibrate them each time. The WP are much easier to calibrate.

The Seneca's are nice. I think the narrow extensions and Incra track brought the cost up to about $300.00 when I got them. I believe the cost has dropped since then.

The Systainer is $70.00 plus the foam insert.

I may get two off the WP sets with extra stops, have a few days to decide. This will be my first order from WP, I have heard shipping charges are ridiculous through them. There are a couple of other options for me when it comes to shipping, we'll see......

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Did you pre-order the TSC?


I told Tom to hold one---might sell one of the other 55's, don't really need 3.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> Wait a sec. You mean to tell me it doesn't end after you have one of each? I'm doomed. :no:


No it doesn't. Maybe if we just worked in a shop it would but........

Hell, Paul has 2 Kapex's.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Paul,

This is the 1010 with a 1010 edge guide a 2200 edge guide and the 1400 guide rods. I have to plow the bottom of the doors for CRT track and sweep. 

The set up allows you to easily plow an edge without the risk of the router drifting off center. 

Next set of multi points I do I'll photo all 3 routers set up. 

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> I told Tom to hold one---might sell one of the other 55's, don't really need 3.
> 
> Tom


Why do you want a cordless tracksaw? I assume you won't be hooked to an extractor?


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Why do you want a cordless tracksaw? I assume you won't be hooked to an extractor?


I got to use one in Henderson, the dust collection with just the bag was really amazing, only reason I'm considering it. It can be connected to a CT if need be.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Yeah, the DC was great with the bag.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> Paul,
> 
> This is the 1010 with a 1010 edge guide a 2200 edge guide and the 1400 guide rods. I have to plow the bottom of the doors for CRT track and sweep.
> 
> The set up allows you to easily plow an edge without the risk of the router drifting off center.
> 
> Next set of multi points I do I'll photo all 3 routers set up.
> 
> Tom


Tom, I get it now. You’re putting a plow on the edge of the door. I was picturing that you were putting a plow on the surface of the door and all I could think of is “How long are the rods that you have and with them spanning 24” – 36” how do you keep them from binding?”

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks


----------



## country_huck

I think I would use the cordless track saw more than the corded. There is just so many things in the field that are just quick cuts. 

My problem is getting invested in there cordless tools. I can't see the value over other cordless options. Or am I really missing something. 

Btw I am well vested in their corded tools, so I do understand their quality and system approach.


----------



## J L

country_huck said:


> I think I would use the cordless track saw more than the corded. There is just so many things in the field that are just quick cuts.
> 
> My problem is getting invested in there cordless tools. I can't see the value over other cordless options. Or am I really missing something.
> 
> Btw I am well vested in their corded tools, so I do understand their quality and system approach.


You should check out their T15 plus 3 set. Awesome drill.


----------



## tjbnwi

The T drills are really good-great drills. My second Festool purchase was the T-15/3. The right angle on the T is at least twice as strong as any other small angle drill I own. Nothing out there comes close to the CSX in the 12/10.8 class of drills. I know some who really like the C drills.

With the TSC, I ordered the PDC- I'm tired of burning up cordless hammer drills, and the Cordless 420 barrel grip. That will give me 6 -18 volt batteries and 4-15 volt batteries (I have 2 T-15's, bought one barley used). 

Try the T-18/3, if you don't like it return it in 30 days.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Drills, hammer drills, jigsaw, two different rail saws (soon), lights (syslite is awesome).

I finally had to replace a battery after 7 years.


----------



## Kolbym

Ok guys I love spending money on tools, especially good ones. I've seen and touched the syslite, and there is no way that thing is worth 175$. I'm not a cheapo by any means, but even I have to draw a line somewhere. What am I missing that you guys see in this thing? I almost wonder if festool is testing the waters with this one to see just how much people are willing to pay...I'm willing to change my mind though.


----------



## Calidecks

Kolbym said:


> Ok guys I love spending money on tools, especially good ones. I've seen and touched the syslite, and there is no way that thing is worth 175$. I'm not a cheapo by any means, but even I have to draw a line somewhere. What am I missing that you guys see in this thing? I almost wonder if festool is testing the waters with this one to see just how much people are willing to pay...I'm willing to change my mind though.


Don't worry the syslite army will be along any minute to refute that. :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I think it's a bargain. When I bought mine I bought a jetbeam flashlight not long before. The jetbeam was $325 plus charger, batteries and and case the festool was $175 with charger battery and case. 

Yeah it ain't as cheap as $20 wal mart LED light but it's not designed anything like that kind of light. 

It's kind of like comparing a surefire LED light to a ultrafire. They may do the same thing but ones gonna cost you $300 and ones gonna cost you $3.


----------



## tjbnwi

Kolbym said:


> Ok guys I love spending money on tools, especially good ones. I've seen and touched the syslite, and there is no way that thing is worth 175$. I'm not a cheapo by any means, but even I have to draw a line somewhere. What am I missing that you guys see in this thing? I almost wonder if festool is testing the waters with this one to see just how much people are willing to pay...I'm willing to change my mind though.


Get one, try it, you don't like it return it within 30 days. Just make sure you have a job to put it through some testing. 

I have one in the truck, charges off the truck. One in the shop. 

I do own a Borg purchased rechargeable LED light, exchanged it 3 times, still wont light for more than a few minutes off the battery. It has 36 LED's, plugged in to line voltage it is no where near as bright as my Syslights running off the internal battery. 

Not every tool is going to fit the way everyone works. Thats what the return policy is for. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Someone asked for pics once I got started on gang routing the Azek dentil. Here ya go! 

The jig (upside down).



The jig clamped into position.



The router set-up.



Notes:
•	Azek does melt and if you pause for any reason – it burns.
•	It takes several passes to complete.
•	I’m averaging about 8 dentils per hour (it will take about 4 hours to make all the dentils)
•	My pockets are full of Azek chips and dust (the vac does get all the airborne stuff – but that’s about it).
•	Azek wanted about $6,000 to make and ship this.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Who has a sys tool box thingy? The one with the pull up handle. what do you put in it?
> 
> I am recently addicted to the mini's, I like putting them inside a regular systainer. Thinking I need a sys 3 to keep my minis in.


Like the one in post #7871 (0pps 7817);

http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/tba-meeting-tool-buyers-anonymous-6536/index391/

I have 4, just not as neat as Justin's, I'm working on making inserts.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

That's #7817 for those of you who can't figure it out...


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> That's #7817 for those of you who can't figure it out...


That's what I said.......:whistling

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I thought one of them had plastic lids?

I will have to find my stack of catalogs.

Must buy more mini's.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I thought one of them had plastic lids?
> 
> I will have to find my stack of catalogs.
> 
> Must buy more mini's.


You meen the tackle boxes.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Seeing as you just got an HVLP and like minis.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

I have Sys 1 OpenTops and a couple Sys 2's 

They are possibly my favorite Sys.....'s. 

I bought the crazy Toolbox insert Systainer and haven't ever used it.
Requires way to much effort to keep things organized and just to access.

The Open tops are great for all my Stilettos, S/S pry bars, extractors, tape measures, jap saws, chisel rolls.

Always right there for quick retrieval.

Love my Tackle Boxes too.
I use them for the stuff I don't want banging around in the OpenTops.
Lasers, StickFixes, Block planes, Accuscribe, etc...etc.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Apparently I need some Mini's.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

tjbnwi said:


> You meen the tackle boxes.
> 
> Tom


Your Kreg kit fits in there?

I dedicated a whole Sys 1 Vari to mine and still had to customize both the top and bottom foam to get it to fit right.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I feel a several hundred dollar systainer order in the near future.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have been using spare systainers to keep machine parts in while I am working on them.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I would love to move everything over to Systainers in my trailer but it would mean a complete rework. When I do that though I'm using them locking slide kits they make. Them things are slick.


----------



## Inner10

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I feel a several hundred dollar systainer order in the near future.


I'm a big fan of the stacking opentop tool boxes, I don't really care for the tackle box style. There always seem to be a random pile of odds and sods you need for a job that don't already have a permanent home in your normal systainers, or small things you only need for that particular job. That's where these things come in handy.


----------



## tjbnwi

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Apparently I need some Mini's.





BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Your Kreg kit fits in there?
> 
> I dedicated a whole Sys 1 Vari to mine and still had to customize both the top and bottom foam to get it to fit right.


I have 10-12 mini's, the picture is just one gun set up, I have 2 more that are set up the same way. All of my CMS bits and pieces are in a Mini, MFS parts are in a Mini...........

That is an older model Kreg Jig (4 maybe?). The base and vertical on the jig have to be separated for it to fit, I made a dust collecting shield for it (clear part with the hole you see in the pictures) so thats in the tackle box also. Holds every part that came with the jig, a lot of screws and the larger clamp.

Kaizen foam, I keep sheets of it in stock to make my inserts.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

An open top modified for door installs at the hotel. Was nice to keep everything easily accessible. 

I modified the further, cut a slot with the 4 mm bit in the Domino to hold a pull saw vertical. 

I got a Sort 9 yesterday, want to set it up for pinner and trim gun nails. Hopefully I can get it to work out.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> I would love to move everything over to Systainers in my trailer but it would mean a complete rework. When I do that though I'm using them locking slide kits they make. Them things are slick.


Te Sys-AZ's are not for vehicle use. I'll let you know how they work got 20 of them the other day. If they work out I need another 84 (as of today).

I will make the ports mobile so I can roll them in the trailer. We'll see how that works out.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

My sort 9 has sat empty for years, I recently gave up on my sort 4 as well.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> My sort 9 has sat empty for years, I recently gave up on my sort 4 as well.


Hell, you could send them to me. I'll give them a good home, where they'll work happily.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

We must all be in organization mode these days. Picked these up yesterday. The mason’s bag is for demo tools (big pry bars, sledges, etc.) that don’t fit in a Systainer.



I had a tackle box in my hand for a few minutes and couldn’t think of what I would use it for.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Te Sys-AZ's are not for vehicle use. I'll let you know how they work got 20 of them the other day. If they work out I need another 84 (as of today).
> 
> I will make the ports mobile so I can roll them in the trailer. We'll see how that works out.
> 
> Tom



I checked them out in woodcraft and I can't see any reason they wouldn't work in a vehicle. Let us know how you get on with them.


----------



## Tom M

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> :laughing:
> 
> Get used to that kind of math.
> 
> I would still get the Midi.
> 
> Save the $110.....you'll need it later.
> http://www.cpofestool.com/festool-497700-tradesman-installer-cleaning-set/fesn497700,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=727&zmap=fesn497700&kpid=fesn497700&gclid=Cj0KEQjw7_mrBRDH4Y2UjLHEmfcBEiQA8OTHf-iocDv7gBaKVPRnOKQWx5Hl5EiOP90z66aMep1GlrAaAlXx8P8HAQ


Do you get a better deal buying CPO?


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> Do you get a better deal buying CPO?


They gave to sell at the prices set by Festool USA. The only used tool sale is from Festool USA every couple of years. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Spencer said:


> I have the 26 and a midi. The problem with the midi is the hose is to small for cleanup. It's great for dust extraction but I prefer the larger 35mm hide that I have in the 26 for clean up aka remodel jobs.



Uh, just stick the 36mm hose in the port on the midi. It sticks up un the air instead of having a 90, but I use it with mine all the time.


----------



## tjbnwi

What Darcy said.

You can go big time and get the 50 mm hose and clean up tools. 

Tom


----------



## Tom M

They dont consider clean up kits as tools to discount as a package


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> They dont consider clean up kits as tools to discount as a package


Any of the 50 mm (2") hoses and tools you can get at a big box store will fit. You can buy the 50 mm hose and other tools, just get a systainer to carry them in.

Tom


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Tom M said:


> Do you get a better deal buying CPO?


I don't buy from CPO. It was just an easy link to find.

I buy from ....Bergen County.

Tool Town in Paramus. 
They are a family run operation that has been on Rt. 17 as long as I can remember.

Great bunch of guys, and their customer service is stellar.
I get my stuff down here in VA so quick, that I assume they are bribing the UPS guy.


----------



## Deckhead

How do you guys keep your systainers so clean? No sawdust, dirt, grime or anything. Maybe I'm just that messy.


----------



## tjbnwi

Deckhead said:


> How do you guys keep your systainers so clean? No sawdust, dirt, grime or anything. Maybe I'm just that messy.


I think most pictures are of the new ones---proud papa syndrome.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Deckhead said:


> How do you guys keep your systainers so clean? No sawdust, dirt, grime or anything. Maybe I'm just that messy.


Mine are all hideous looking.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

My oldest is a year and a half old. She doesn't have many miles on her yet.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Deckhead said:


> How do you guys keep your systainers so clean? No sawdust, dirt, grime or anything. Maybe I'm just that messy.


We wash, wax and polish ours daily :laughing:


----------



## Kolbym

Is this a common problem? This saw is only about 6 months old.


----------



## Inner10

Kolbym said:


> Is this a common problem? This saw is only about 6 months old.


Yeah I spill coffee on my tools all the time too.


----------



## Calidecks

Kolbym said:


> Is this a common problem? This saw is only about 6 months old.


:laughing::laughing: should of bought Milwaukee.


----------



## tjbnwi

Kolbym said:


> Is this a common problem? This saw is only about 6 months old.


Nothing to worry about. I was told all the gear cases are slightly overfilled. Mine leaked like that once. Cleaned it up, hasn't happen again I n the last few years. 

The number for service is on the saw you can call them for your own piece of mind. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

New hose fittings----------installed.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> New hose fittings----------installed.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Worth buying?


----------



## Spencer

tjbnwi said:


> New hose fittings----------installed.
> 
> Tom


Whats special about these?


----------



## David7586

Tom can put the dust bag attachment on the corded saws in addition to his cordless. How's the rotation on the fitting? Is it the same as the old ones or do they click and lock at certain stops ie every 15 degrees.


----------



## Kolbym

mnld said:


> More$450 a roll tape?


....but it has a three year warrantee!


----------



## Calidecks

Californiadecks said:


> I think it's a poor design to plug the hose into the port vs. Slipping over the outside. I'd rather just buy an adaptor. I like the 27mm for my tracksaw.


Looks like I got it worked out


----------



## Calidecks

Actually I took it a step further. And was able to use a festool end


----------



## Calidecks

Here's a basic physics question. The smaller the hose the greater the suction but with less volume for debris? Kinda like squeazing the end of a water hose, Correct?


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Here's a basic physics question. The smaller the hose the greater the suction but with less volume for debris? Kinda like squeazing the end of a water hose, Correct?


The vacuum does not "suck", it is higher pressure moving to the lower pressure that cause the air flow. Atmospheric pressure is the working force so the smaller hose having a lesser surface area, vacuum stays the same per square inch, volume decreases.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

So when I push air through a smaller orifice the air moves at a greater speed. Why wouldn't it be the same when you pull air through a smaller orifice?


----------



## Calidecks

I think this sums it up

Squeezing the water into a smaller pipe will not increase the water pressure!

Part of the reason this misconception persists is that it does seem logical. The example most often given to support this idea is what happens when holding your thumb over the end of a hose. As you press your thumb over the opening, making it smaller, you can feel the water pressure against your thumb increase. Pushing your thumb even tighter against the end of the hose, makes the opening even smaller, and you feel the pressure increase even more. That would seem to prove that decreasing the opening size is increasing the water pressure. So logically, using a smaller pipe would also increase the water pressure.

Unfortunately there is a lot more happening with this “thumb over the hose end” example than you realize. As water moves through a hose or pipe there is a lot of resistance caused by the hose or pipe surfaces. The water moves through the hose at the maximum speed it can while still overcoming this friction. When the water reaches the end of the hose it has close to zero pressure left as it exits. So if you have, say, 50 PSI of water pressure at the hose faucet, the water will move as fast as it can through the hose, such that it will use up almost all that 50 PSI of pressure by the time it reaches the end of the hose. If there were 60 PSI of pressure, the water would just move a little faster through the hose so that it used up almost all 60 PSI by the time it exits. So basically regardless of the pressure, almost all the water pressure is used up by the time the water flows through the hose. The nature of water is that it will reach the most efficient balance between flow rate and pressure loss that it can. (Note, I am oversimplifying this to make it digestible for the average person. If you have a degree in hydraulics you already know all the other related stuff about open vs. closed channels and nozzling


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> So when I push air through a smaller orifice the air moves at a greater speed. Why wouldn't it be the same when you pull air through a smaller orifice?


Air is not pulled threw the hose it is pushed. The pressure imbalance causes the air to move to the lower pressure. Anything in the way can get pushed along in the air stream. 

Atmospheric pressure is some what constant. The lower pressure in the CT is variable. 

Depending on the length/size of the restriction and the shape of the open area it will have a large affect on the flow rate.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Air is not pulled threw the hose it is pushed. The pressure imbalance causes the air to move to the lower pressure. Anything in the way can get pushed along in the air stream.
> 
> Atmospheric pressure is some what constant. The lower pressure in the CT is variable.
> 
> Depending on the length/size of the restriction and the shape of the open area it will have a large affect on the flow rate.
> 
> Tom


So will the smaller hose pick up a heavier object or the same as the larger hose?


----------



## Calidecks

I still think the fitting on the outside of the dust port has to be better than on the inside. Debris hits the end of the fitting when it's inside.


----------



## skillman

CarpenterSFO said:


> Quick install to prevent the flopping dust port on the TS55.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwtR7aI3tdo



A lot of guys are buying the new dust bag and port from Festool. Takin the old port out and installing it which has a better lock to stop the hose movement.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> I still think the fitting on the outside of the dust port has to be better than on the inside. Debris hits the end of the fitting when it's inside.


I agree. I believe the 27 mm hose is supplied because it fits the vast majority of tools. There were complaints about the dongle on the 22 and 36, that is why they went to the 15 amp plug. Imagine the complaints if they supplied an adapter or a 36 mm hose.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> So will the smaller hose pick up a heavier object or the same as the larger hose?


They should both pick up the same weight item, the 36 will move a higher volume item.

Another odd thing about the CT's is if you plug the end of the hose the amperage goes down because there is no longer a load on the CT. With the hose blocked the pressure in the CT is balanced.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

skillman said:


> A lot of guys are buying the new dust bag and port from Festool. Takin the old port out and installing it which has a better lock to stop the hose movement.


I have the new adapter on all 4 of my TS saws. Make sure you clock the adapter properly to get the housing to mate up.

I've also read that on the EQ model without the CT connected it can jamb up the blade from retracting. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> They should both pick up the same weight item, the 36 will move a higher volume item.
> 
> Another odd thing about the CT's is if you plug the end of the hose the amperage goes down because there is no longer a load on the CT. With the hose blocked the pressure in the CT is balanced.
> 
> Tom


Thank you Tom.


----------



## Calidecks

The guy I sold my ts55 to wants to know if that dust box picks up most the dust.


----------



## overanalyze

tjbnwi said:


> They should both pick up the same weight item, the 36 will move a higher volume item.
> 
> Another odd thing about the CT's is if you plug the end of the hose the amperage goes down because there is no longer a load on the CT. With the hose blocked the pressure in the CT is balanced.
> 
> Tom


That is hard for my feable mind to comprehend. ..lol..but I think I understand. Thanks Tom!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> They should both pick up the same weight item, the 36 will move a higher volume item.
> 
> Another odd thing about the CT's is if you plug the end of the hose the amperage goes down because there is no longer a load on the CT. With the hose blocked the pressure in the CT is balanced.
> 
> Tom


Same thing as a shop DC running wide open with no restrictions.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> The guy I sold my ts55 to wants to know if that dust box picks up most the dust.


If it is the EQ model tell him to use the CT. If it was an REQ model show him my video and let him decide if it picks up enough dust. The corded and cordless R models work the same with the bag.

Tom


----------



## charimon

Californiadecks said:


> Here's a basic physics question. The smaller the hose the greater the suction but with less volume for debris? Kinda like squeazing the end of a water hose, Correct?


With vacuum extractors there are three measurements that help explain what is going on.

1 static water lift. This is the max amount of suction (pressure) that the system can exert. It is simply determined by how much you can make water rise up a column like 102"

2CFM this is the maximum flow that a system cam make with no load.

3 The relationship between static pressure and cfm is a curve as static pressure goes up cfm goes down this relationship in a particular vacuum system is expressed in "Air watts" this is the actual amount of work that the system does. 
(look up Airwatt there is a lot info here)

When you restrict flow the static pressure goes up by choosing a smaller hose orifice in this case you "feel" the air getting forcibly pulled into the hose because it is being pulled at a higer static pressure.


----------



## StrongTower

I am puzzled why my new Mini doesn't pull as hard as my old 22. It's supposed to have more CFM. Same hose, running off my Kapex.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

StrongTower said:


> I am puzzled why my new Mini doesn't pull as hard as my old 22. It's supposed to have more CFM. Same hose, running off my Kapex.



Did the 22 have a hepa filter in it?

You can get a non hepa filter for the Mini.


----------



## StrongTower

I did switch the hepa out in my 22 for the standard. That's prob it, have to get one for the mini.


----------



## Spencer

Is it common to get more suction by changing to a standard filter?


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> Is it common to get more suction by changing to a standard filter?


Pressure differential at the end of the hose, yes. The standard filter has larger pores. 

Tom


----------



## CarpenterSFO

StrongTower said:


> I did switch the hepa out in my 22 for the standard. That's prob it, have to get one for the mini.


I keep those HEPA filters in there. With the bags, the filter never even gets dirty, and when you're vacuuming (we use the CTs for general cleanup) it doesn't even smell as if you've been vacuuming.


----------



## Nick R

So I bought a makita track on sale to use with my ts55, but even with the adjustment cams maxed out, there is still play between saw and track. Is this a known issue, and is there a work- around?


----------



## tjbnwi

Nick R said:


> So I bought a makita track on sale to use with my ts55, but even with the adjustment cams maxed out, there is still play between saw and track. Is this a known issue, and is there a work- around?


Never read of this happening before. Always read the Makita tracks work well with the TS saws.

How much adjustment is left on the saw when using the Festool track? I've had to replace the gibs on 2 of my TS saws due to wear.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

Nick R said:


> So I bought a makita track on sale to use with my ts55, but even with the adjustment cams maxed out, there is still play between saw and track. Is this a known issue, and is there a work- around?


I have that saw and track I can adjust it so tight it barely moves.


----------



## Nick R

tjbnwi said:


> Never read of this happening before. Always read the Makita tracks work well with the TS saws.
> 
> How much adjustment is left on the saw when using the Festool track? I've had to replace the gibs on 2 of my TS saws due to wear.
> 
> Tom



I can check that, but I believe about half way on the festool tracks. I'll also take a measurement. Holding them but to one another, the makita does look smaller.


----------



## duburban

My makita track also requires the gibbs to be maxed on my ts55 and ts75.

accessories also don't fit. wish i spent the money on the festool


----------



## TimelessQuality

Californiadecks said:


> I have that saw and track I can adjust it so tight it barely moves.


I thought you dumped it for that red thing..


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Looks like I got it worked out


i prefer the 27 for all the tools. it's easier to move around unless it's the ac 36 wither drywall hose super light and flexible 36m. 

wha's the part did you use to modify that?


----------



## Calidecks

TimelessQuality said:


> I thought you dumped it for that red thing..


I gave it to a buddy. I had that saw and used it on Makita tracks with no issue. None, and the gibbs were not maxed.


----------



## Calidecks

TimelessQuality said:


> I thought you dumped it for that red thing..


I gave it to a buddy. I had that saw and used it on Makita tracks with no issue. None, and the gibbs were not maxed.


----------



## aaron_a

Any one ever use these on a track saw?

https://www.festoolproducts.com/CMT...JHdjlG4VaZoG853gDCI4oUlwB3b4qemSMUaArlc8P8HAQ

have a fiber cement panel job coming up and would love to use the ts-55 to cut them.


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> Any one ever use these on a track saw?
> 
> https://www.festoolproducts.com/CMT...JHdjlG4VaZoG853gDCI4oUlwB3b4qemSMUaArlc8P8HAQ
> 
> have a fiber cement panel job coming up and would love to use the ts-55 to cut them.


Yep, use it all the time. Pretty sure I was the first one in the country with one. After I received it and posted over at FOG and here a few other dealers started to stock the blade. 

If you would not mind, order it from Tom, he was the first to stock it. (I have another reason for asking, but that will have to wait)

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/25164

Works on plaster also.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> Yep, use it all the time. Pretty sure I was the first one in the country with one. After I received it and posted over at FOG and here a few other dealers started to stock the blade.
> 
> If you would not mind, order it from Tom, he was the first to stock it. (I have another reason for asking, but that will have to wait)
> 
> http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/25164
> 
> Tom


Thanks.

I've never ordered from him. My lumberyard is a festool dealer, so I get all my stuff from them usually. Hows the life on the blade? I've got 54 sheets of high density FC to cut, wondering if I should get a back up.


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I've never ordered from him. My lumberyard is a festool dealer, so I get all my stuff from them usually. Hows the life on the blade? I've got 54 sheets of high density FC to cut, wondering if I should get a back up.


Unless your lumber yard is a CMT dealer they wont be able to get the blade. Even if they are a dealer the U.S. warehouse does not stock them, they are shipped here from Italy. 

Festool makes a blade for this, we can't get it here.

I have about 3000 feet on my blade, no signs of any wear or degradation of the cut. 

Hook it to your CT. I have the 36 AC so that's what I use. If you use a regular CT with a bag, every once in awhile you'll need to open the CT and slap the bag to knock the dust out of the pores. If it is a Mini or a Midi close the flap before you smack the bag (you'll only forget once). 

Once you've used the TS to cut FC, you'll avoid cutting FC without it.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> Unless your lumber yard is a CMT dealer they wont be able to get the blade. Even if they are a dealer the U.S. warehouse does not stock them, they are shipped here from Italy.
> 
> Festool makes a blade for this, we can't get it here.
> 
> I have about 3000 feet on my blade, no signs of any wear or degradation of the cut.
> 
> Hook it to your CT. I have the 36 AC so that's what I use. If you use a regular CT with a bag, every once in awhile you'll need to open the CT and slap the bag to knock the dust out of the pores. If it is a Mini or a Midi close the flap before you smack the bag (you'll only forget once).
> 
> Once you've used the TS to cut FC, you'll avoid cutting FC without it.
> 
> Tom



Thanks. Didn't think I would be able to get it from my yard. I'll order from tom tonight then. 

I have a ct 26 that I use with bags. I used to use a crappy ridgid fc saw, but this seems like a much better option.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

I'm curious if the dust has any wear and tear in the tools?


----------



## aaron_a

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I'm curious if the dust has any wear and tear in the tools?



It's supposed to void the warranty. But from looking around online it looks like most of the dust ends up in the ct like anything else...


----------



## tjbnwi

Tylerwalker32 said:


> I'm curious if the dust has any wear and tear in the tools?


Fiber cement is one of the approved building materials listed in the owners manual. I've seen no ill effects on the saws or rails. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> It's supposed to void the warranty. But from looking around online it looks like most of the dust ends up in the ct like anything else...


We had this discussion on FOG---the material is listed in the owners manual and the blade falls in the guidelines of approved blades (bore, thickness, kerf). The TSC-55 (cordless) lists fiber cement as an approved material in the owners manual, that would normally be bag collection. 

I see no way Festool could deny a claim for this and win.

This dust is so fine, more ends up in the CT than when you cut wood. By the way---the CT gets real heavy real fast.

Tom


----------



## Tylerwalker32

tjbnwi said:


> Fiber cement is one of the approved building materials listed in the owners manual. I've seen no ill effects on the saws or rails.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



That's good to know. I was curious about that since I know how bad silica can be. I will have to give it a try next time I'm doing fiber cement.


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> We had this discussion on FOG---the material is listed in the owners manual and the blade falls in the guidelines of approved blades (bore, thickness, kerf). The TSC-55 (cordless) lists fiber cement as an approved material in the owners manual, that would normally be bag collection.
> 
> I see no way Festool could deny a claim for this and win.
> 
> This dust is so fine, more ends up in the CT than when you cut wood. By the way---the CT gets real heavy real fast.
> 
> Tom


Yeah, I figured it would handle the dust about the same as it would boral. 

I just packed my ct26 so full of trex cuttings that it packed in the hose about a foot. That sucker was heavy. Still had suction too!


----------



## Calidecks

aaron_a said:


> Yeah, I figured it would handle the dust about the same as it would boral.
> 
> I just packed my ct26 so full of trex cuttings that it packed in the hose about a foot. That sucker was heavy. Still had suction too!


That's a trip when it completely fills the hose. I have to say I was surprised.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tylerwalker32 said:


> That's good to know. I was curious about that since I know how bad silica can be. I will have to give it a try next time I'm doing fiber cement.


Page 10 under intended use lists plaster and FC, page 12 has the recommended speed chart, also shows plaster and FC.

https://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/703959_002_TS 55 REQ_USA.pdf

I cut FC at 4, bogs a little on 3.

Tom


----------



## Tom M

aaron_a said:


> Yeah, I figured it would handle the dust about the same as it would boral.
> 
> I just packed my ct26 so full of trex cuttings that it packed in the hose about a foot. That sucker was heavy. Still had suction too!


How many cuts till that happened? A few decks or a few cuts. Composite makes a lot of debris and the 26 is a nice size.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> How many cuts till that happened? A few decks or a few cuts. Composite makes a lot of debris and the 26 is a nice size.



Lots more than a few cuts. An empty bag will not fill up on a single deck job. At least not the size we do... Although it al depends on how much cutting you have to do I suppose.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> That's a trip when it completely fills the hose. I have to say I was surprised.



Makes you feel like you got your money's worth. Never filled a shop vac bag close to full. Something always tore on them it seemed.


----------



## Calidecks

Nice thing about composite is the shavings are pretty clean. You can easily empty the bag 3 or 4 times before replacing it. Also I use the sponge filter in place of the hepa. It allows better air flow.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Nice thing about composite is the shavings are pretty clean. You can easily empty the bag 3 or 4 times before replacing it. Also I use the sponge filter in place of the hepa. It allows better air flow.


Have you considered the Long Life bag? Seems like the perfect material for it. 

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

Tom M said:


> How many cuts till that happened? A few decks or a few cuts. Composite makes a lot of debris and the 26 is a nice size.



Same bag was in for a few months. All kinds of crap in there. Topped it off with the trex.


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Have you considered the Long Life bag? Seems like the perfect material for it.
> 
> Tom


I use the midi.


----------



## aptpupil

tjbnwi said:


> Yep, use it all the time. Pretty sure I was the first one in the country with one. After I received it and posted over at FOG and here a few other dealers started to stock the blade.
> 
> If you would not mind, order it from Tom, he was the first to stock it. (I have another reason for asking, but that will have to wait)
> 
> http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/25164
> 
> Works on plaster also.
> 
> Tom


How do you secure the rail to the ceiling?


----------



## tjbnwi

aptpupil said:


> How do you secure the rail to the ceiling?


Clamps, screws (through factory hole in rail), tape, what ever is necessary to make it work.

Rapid Clamp works well for placing the rail in odd places.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

aptpupil said:


> How do you secure the rail to the ceiling?



Screws through the holes, double sided stick tape, the rapid clamp, or any combination of those as needed.


----------



## Nick R

Nick R said:


> I can check that, but I believe about half way on the festool tracks. I'll also take a measurement. Holding them but to one another, the makita does look smaller.



So I finally checked the makita rail compared to the festool. The makita measures .025" smaller, and with my saw on the festool tracks the gibbs are 3/4 to max. Saw on makita tracks maxed out still has play. 

Is 3/4 to max adjusted for the festool tracks normal? I never adjusted since new almost two years ago. The track measured 0.638" or so.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Makes you feel like you got your money's worth. Never filled a shop vac bag close to full. Something always tore on them it seemed.


The best thing I like about those vacs are how quiet they are. I am ruined for life. I can't stomach any other vac now.


----------



## country_huck

Californiadecks said:


> The best thing I like about those vacs are how quiet they are. I am ruined for life. I can't stomach any other vac now.



I still have my old ridgid hanging around mainly for wife to vacuum out the car and stuff around the house. Every time I have to use it I just dread the noise.


----------



## Tom M

I gave in and bought the midi & a sander today. Hope I am as happy about it as everyone else.


Hope I am as happy with mine as everyone else is with theirs. 
Better DV


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> I gave in and bought the midi & a sander today. Hope I am as happy about it as everyone else.


Which sander and what do you plan to use it for? Only asking to make sure you bought the proper one for the tasks you plan on doing. 

I'd suggest using it as much as you can in the next 29 days, if it is not what you need return it.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> The best thing I like about those vacs are how quiet they are. I am ruined for life. I can't stomach any other vac now.





country_huck said:


> I still have my old ridgid hanging around mainly for wife to vacuum out the car and stuff around the house. Every time I have to use it I just dread the noise.



I'm running an old Ridgid right now on my plainer. Now I remember why I quit using it. Not so much how loud, the high pitched whine is what gets me.

I just put a CT 48 and long life bag in my cart, I needed to order CT 22 bags and glue pucks for the Conturo, might as well make it a worth while order. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Tom M said:


> I gave in and bought the midi & a sander today. Hope I am as happy about it as everyone else.


I can’t speak for the rest of the guys here, but I hope you’re as happy as I am that you got a sander and CT :jester:

Just read funny to me :laughing:


----------



## Tom M

tjbnwi said:


> Which sander and what do you plan to use it for? Only asking to make sure you bought the proper one for the tasks you plan on doing.
> 
> I'd suggest using it as much as you can in the next 29 days, if it is not what you need return it.
> 
> Tom


The cheap one, the ETS its probably the most useful to me for touch up sanding and drywall finishing for spot repairs. I dont do big refinishing so unless that changes I dont see the need for a rotex. 

Im looking forward to the vac dust containment. I have the TS55 for a while and extracting will be a big change for lots of different tools.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Tom M said:


> The cheap one, the ETS its probably the most useful to me for touch up sanding and drywall finishing for spot repairs. I dont do big refinishing so unless that changes I dont see the need for a rotex.
> 
> Im looking forward to the vac dust containment. I have the TS55 for a while and extracting will be a big change for lots of different tools.


You need the Rotex.

I could live without an ETS.

Without my Rotex though......I'd give up on life.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

I started with the ETS as well. The Rotex is much faster and works better for sanding wood or removing larger amounts of material.

You need both. See what I did there...

The ETS works great for drywall patches, sanding finishes, and it works ok for sanding wood but you will love a Rotex for sanding wood.


----------



## country_huck

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I started with the ETS as well. The Rotex is much faster and works better for sanding wood or removing larger amounts of material.
> 
> You need both. See what I did there...
> 
> The ETS works great for drywall patches, sanding finishes, and it works ok for sanding wood but you will love a Rotex for sanding wood.




You will definitely NEED both!! 

ETS is great for drywall, and finish sanding just can't do what a Rotex will do.


----------



## Tom M

Next perhaps


----------



## aaron_a

I got my ets first, and then realized it wasn't enough and got a rotex.

It's a good little sander for sure, but it's tedious on raw wood. 

It's funny, before I got into festool stuff I just had my 5 inch ridgid orbital and thought that was plenty fine. Now I have an ro125, ets125, and dts400. I'll probably end up with an ro90, and maybe 150 at some point too. 

Also, check out abranet discs. I really like them, they seem to last the longest out of anything I have tried.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> The cheap one, the ETS its probably the most useful to me for touch up sanding and drywall finishing for spot repairs. I dont do big refinishing so unless that changes I dont see the need for a rotex.
> 
> Im looking forward to the vac dust containment. I have the TS55 for a while and extracting will be a big change for lots of different tools.


If it is the ETS 125 it is a great finish sander, but as others mentioned not great for raw wood knock down. With what you describe it is the proper sander for you. You will still need to hand sand the corner intersections. 

If it is the ETS 150-5, it is a more versatile sander, better for raw wood but not the best. 

Drywall dust tends to plug the bag pores, open the CT once in awhile and smack the bag, it knocks the dust out of the pores. Close the flap on the bag before you smack the bag.

Tom


----------



## duburban

aaron_a said:


> I got my ets first, and then realized it wasn't enough and got a rotex.
> 
> It's a good little sander for sure, but it's tedious on raw wood.
> 
> It's funny, before I got into festool stuff I just had my 5 inch ridgid orbital and thought that was plenty fine. Now I have an ro125, ets125, and dts400. I'll probably end up with an ro90, and maybe 150 at some point too.
> 
> Also, check out abranet discs. I really like them, they seem to last the longest out of anything I have tried.




Are you using some sort of backer saving pad behind the abranet? I'm not but know I should. I think Mirka sells one but if you know the name of it I'd appreciate it.


----------



## aptpupil

Ets is great for paint prep and light dw sanding. I got the ro125 first and it was a bit much to get used to, but now it's broken in (yeah yeah yeah) and I've gotten used to it.


----------



## Sisyphus

duburban said:


> Are you using some sort of backer saving pad behind the abranet? I'm not but know I should. I think Mirka sells one but if you know the name of it I'd appreciate it.


"Platen Protector" is what I use. There's also the "3/8” thick foam interface pad" more info here ...

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59471&cat=1,42500


----------



## tjbnwi

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg

He lost me at---it's a $1000.00 saw.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg
> 
> He lost me at---it's a $1000.00 saw.
> 
> Tom


So did you watch the whole thing? If I had nothing better to do, I bet it's worth a laugh.

I skipped through some of it, dude seems like a moron... If the saw works, who cares if it's a helical gear and not a spur gear...


----------



## tjbnwi

Yes. Nothing he mentions has failed on any of my saws (never had any failure with a TS). 

I disagree with him on the bearings, I feel the sealed balls are superior in this situation to tapered or roller bearings. The bronze bushing, as he pointed out has been around for thousands of years. They are used on machines far more expensive than the TS without issue.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> Yes. Nothing he mentions has failed on any of my saws (never had any failure with a TS).
> 
> I disagree with him on the bearings, I feel the sealed balls are superior in this situation to tapered or roller bearings. The bronze bushing, as he pointed out has been around for thousands of years. They are used on machines far more expensive than the TS without issue.
> 
> Tom


I supposed to be tiling my backsplash so I didn't watch the whole thing. You know more about all the stuff than I do anyway. He seemed to know what he was talking about and had a bunch of cool tools. But like you said, if it doesn't fail, then who cares?


----------



## Tom M

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> You need the Rotex.
> 
> I could live without an ETS.
> 
> Without my Rotex though......I'd give up on life.


So what are you doing with the sander through the course of a month? I'm thinking that the ability of the tool could change the way I work. Like things I normally would just replace, perhaps more economical to restore.


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I supposed to be tiling my backsplash so I didn't watch the whole thing. You know more about all the stuff than I do anyway. He seemed to know what he was talking about and had a bunch of cool tools. But like you said, if it doesn't fail, then who cares?


I did like the fact a few of his cool tools did not work.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

duburban said:


> Are you using some sort of backer saving pad behind the abranet? I'm not but know I should. I think Mirka sells one but if you know the name of it I'd appreciate it.



Depends. I use a festool interface pad sometimes.


----------



## overanalyze

It will be nice to have 2 good vacs onsite.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> It will be nice to have 2 good vacs onsite.


I had 4 out last week all just for me.


----------



## Calidecks

Does the auto clean keep the suction at maximum capacity, better than the others?


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> Does the auto clean keep the suction at maximum capacity, better than the others?


I'll let you know. I will say when all you are used to for the last few years is a Midi, this thing is a beast!! I want it to use with our Planex and to keep hooked to the Kapex and table saw and free up the Midi for sanding and tracksaw use when trimming.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

overanalyze said:


> it will be nice to have 2 good vacs onsite.


dude you'll love IT.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Does the auto clean keep the suction at maximum capacity, better than the others?




I have the midi and ac. the midi is awesome as you know. the ac is just a beast.although the motor and suction is the same something about the ac is just seems to suck more.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> Does the auto clean keep the suction at maximum capacity, better than the others?



No way you want to haul that thing around Mike. It gets heavy when it's loaded up.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> I'll let you know. I will say when all you are used to for the last few years is a Midi, this thing is a beast!! I want it to use with our Planex and to keep hooked to the Kapex and table saw and free up the Midi for sanding and tracksaw use when trimming.



Did you get the plastic bags for drywall and the fleece for normal use?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I had 4 out last week all just for me.



We only have 4 and I want more. Hate having to take a vacuum from an area we aren't done with it in because we need it somewhere else.


----------



## Mort

So my 7-year-old daughter likes to help me when I'm woodworking, and her favorite part is sanding. She uses my DeWalt ROS but the other day she was complaining that it was making her arm tingly. 

Would stepping up to the ETS125 be a noticeable reduction in vibration? Noise too? I want her to keep helping me, I like to encourage hard work and creativity rather than Minecraft or whatever the hell she plays on the PS3.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Does the auto clean keep the suction at maximum capacity, better than the others?


If you have the fleece bag in the AC it does not clean the bag. With the plastic liner it cleans the filter very well.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Mort said:


> So my 7-year-old daughter likes to help me when I'm woodworking, and her favorite part is sanding. She uses my DeWalt ROS but the other day she was complaining that it was making her arm tingly.
> 
> Would stepping up to the ETS125 be a noticeable reduction in vibration? Noise too? I want her to keep helping me, I like to encourage hard work and creativity rather than Minecraft or whatever the hell she plays on the PS3.



The ETS 125 is not a good wood sander, not what it was designed to do. If you want to try it do so, return it within 30 days if it does not do the job. I'd recommend the ETS 150-5. 

Get a CT to use the sander with, it will keep her work area cleaner.

Tom


----------



## Mort

tjbnwi said:


> The ETS 125 is not a good wood sander, not what it was designed to do. If you want to try it do so, return it within 30 days if it does not do the job. I'd recommend the ETS 150-5.
> 
> Get a CT to use the sander with, it will keep her work area cleaner.
> 
> Tom


What was it designed to do then?

I think the 150 might be a bit big for her small hands, plus its a bit overkill for the projects I have lined up. If Festool made an ETS90 that'd be perfect for her, but they don't.


----------



## overanalyze

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Did you get the plastic bags for drywall and the fleece for normal use?


Not yet. It came with one of each. I will order some soon. I am thinking the plastic for everything right???


----------



## tjbnwi

Mort said:


> What was it designed to do then?
> 
> I think the 150 might be a bit big for her small hands, plus its a bit overkill for the projects I have lined up. If Festool made an ETS90 that'd be perfect for her, but they don't.


The orbital stroke is 2mm, it is designed to sand between the coats of finishes. It will sand wood, nowhere near as fast as the the DeWalt. 

Try the 125, easy to return if need be.

Maybe an RTS?

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> Not yet. It came with one of each. I will order some soon. I am thinking the plastic for everything right???



When in doubt, ask Tom. :laughing:

But seriously though, ask Tom...

I have both, the plan being when I need to set up in the shop and we have stuff on site I'll swap the bag and use the 36 in the shop.


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Not yet. It came with one of each. I will order some soon. I am thinking the plastic for everything right???


Plastic is the best for the AC function. I use the bag/liner as the job dictates. The AC comes with the standard filter, you can get a HEPA for it.

Tom


----------



## Mort

tjbnwi said:


> The orbital stroke is 2mm, it is designed to sand between the coats of finishes. It will sand wood, nowhere near as fast as the the DeWalt.
> 
> Try the 125, easy to return if need be.
> 
> Maybe an RTS?
> 
> Tom


I dunno, maybe I will try it. In 'Murican, sanding stroke is 5/64ths, which is darn close to the 3/32 of my DeWalt. I love that 30 day return policy.

Says the RTS is the same sanding stroke, what would make it better?

I think its a reasonable trade-off if the NVH is a lot better.


----------



## john5mt

emmetnee said:


> I haven't posted in a while but I felt compelled to post a picture of my latest purchase. It's like a Prazi Beam cutter but you can use the guide rail and vacuum attachment. I purchased it for cutting Woodfibre board insulation and Eps/ XPS insulation.
> View attachment 219794
> View attachment 219802


Dont go showing off that NAINA stuff we cant have


----------



## emmetnee

john5mt said:


> Dont go showing off that NAINA stuff we cant have



I'm usually always looking on American tool website for stuff that I can't get here!!


----------



## StrongTower

john5mt said:


> Dont go showing off that NAINA stuff we cant have



You can get the Mafell version through Timberwolf. At least I thought I saw it on their website.


----------



## tjbnwi

Joemack1 said:


> Does festool make different length cords for their tools, like the track saw? I can't find any information on their website.


A 10 meter will be released in North America this October. 

Tom


----------



## BBuild

I wish they would come out with a 5 meter cord to pair with my Bosch hoses. The 10 would be nice for ladder work though.


----------



## country_huck

Anybody see the new finish sander coming out, they got a new hose and cord combo coming out too


----------



## overanalyze

I did see that...new brushless versions of the 5" & 6" etc sanders. They look more like the Mirka Deros.


----------



## Spencer

country_huck said:


> Anybody see the new finish sander coming out, they got a new hose and cord combo coming out too



The hose and cord combo would be nice but $250 for it is just stupid. I'll stick with the 50 cents I've got in duct tape keeping my cord and hose together. 

Besides being brushless it didn't look like the new sander was anything new.


----------



## Spencer

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> You need the Rotex.
> 
> 
> 
> I could live without an ETS.
> 
> 
> 
> Without my Rotex though......I'd give up on life.



This comment pushed me over the edge to get a ro 125. Man do I love it. Thanks


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> The hose and cord combo would be nice but $250 for it is just stupid. I'll stick with the 50 cents I've got in duct tape keeping my cord and hose together.
> 
> Besides being brushless it didn't look like the new sander was anything new.


Wait until the next go round when they offer the hose without the Systainer III. The hose, cord and sleeve is in line with prices if you use cable organization sleeve on the hose.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

The new sanders are much more user friendly then the mirka's.


----------



## country_huck

The new sanders are just new to us right, it's another tool that made it over the pond?


----------



## tjbnwi

They've been elsewhere about 18 months.

Tom


----------



## Joemack1

What makes the mirka sanders not user friendly?


----------



## aaron_a

Joemack1 said:


> What makes the mirka sanders not user friendly?


Wondering the same thing. Maybe the DC power box? I used one at a demo once and it was great.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I for one don't like the paddle switch on them or air powered sanders in general. I prefer to turn on the sander, adjust the speed and sand, not feather the paddle on top.
I also found the festool ones more comfortable to hang on to and use then the mirka's. 

Also easier to travel with.

I doubt I will buy one, but they were nice to use and didn't catch fire either.


----------



## Joemack1

The deros has a speed switch so you don't have to feather the switch. The deros also comes in a systainer just like the festool sanders.


----------



## Sisyphus

Deros is nice and unlike its predecessor (Ceros) no power box.


----------



## aaron_a

Yeah, the paddle switch is a little weird to use I suppose. I must have tried the deros.


----------



## Tom M

So I like the cord length on the midi. Do you guy's put your wire in lid before your hose? I am going to have to get used to operating with a hose too. I can also see that boom arm being handy 

I was surprised the cord on my ETS didn't plug into the TS today. I was going back and forth between them.


----------



## overanalyze

The track saw takes a heavier gauge wire. You can use the heavier one for all tools bit can't use the smaller gauge on heavier amperage tools.


----------



## tjbnwi

How I load the hose and cord.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE

Use the cord from the saw on everything. It is 16 ga. the sander cord is 18 ga. Keep the sander cord with you just in case.

No boom arm for the Midi. If your inside a bungee cord or two from above helps.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> So I like the cord length on the midi. Do you guy's put your wire in lid before your hose? I am going to have to get used to operating with a hose too. I can also see that boom arm being handy
> 
> I was surprised the cord on my ETS didn't plug into the TS today. I was going back and forth between them.



Tom (other Tom) has a video on putting the hose and cord back into the top. But the idea is, you put the hose in first around the edges, all except the last loop, then wrap the cord inside of that, and finish up with the last of the hose on top.

It works well and you can put systainers on top once you wrap it right.

Andrew is correct on the cords. A heavier gauge for the TS and some of the other larger tools. Light gauge can't plug into tools requiring heavy but heavy gauge can into light gauge tools. If you're using multiples in one area, just use a heavy gauge.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> How I load the hose and cord.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE
> 
> Use the cord from the saw on everything. It is 16 ga. the sander cord is 18 ga. Keep the sander cord with you just in case.
> 
> No boom arm for the Midi. If your inside a bungee cord or two from above helps.
> 
> Tom


Took me longer to type...


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> How I load the hose and cord.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE
> 
> Use the cord from the saw on everything. It is 16 ga. the sander cord is 18 ga. Keep the sander cord with you just in case.
> 
> No boom arm for the Midi. If your inside a bungee cord or two from above helps.
> 
> Tom


This may be a thing of the past. I can't say much other then it is much easier to put a thinner, more flexible cord away now.


----------



## Tom M

I put the hose in first , I can see leaving out that last coil would help tucking in that wire so I am going to remember that. It's full though, I bought a 3 piece cleaning set up to have and the loose pieces are a struggle getting in the garage


----------



## tjbnwi

I have the CT's with both cords, end up wrapping the cord the same way for both.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> I put the hose in first , I can see leaving out that last coil would help tucking in that wire so I am going to remember that. It's full though, I bought a 3 piece cleaning set up to have and the loose pieces are a struggle getting in the garage


It is pretty tight once you get the hose and cord in the garage. I have cleaning sets in Systainers.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> I put the hose in first , I can see leaving out that last coil would help tucking in that wire so I am going to remember that. It's full though, I bought a 3 piece cleaning set up to have and the loose pieces are a struggle getting in the garage


http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/compact-cleaning-set-ctt-loc-/p/497697/

This is a fantastic cleaning kit to leave with the vac that's rolling around. We have a couple vacs and only one of the compact cleaning kits but it stays on top of the Midi vac because that's the one that gets drug around the house.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Also, the cord wrap off the larger vacs will fit on the midi and mini.

The midi is my favorite. The 26 I have been lugging around for a few weeks is to damn big.


----------



## Tom M

Yeah I know, I didn't want the cleaning kit. If I do I will upgrade to the bigger one. A carpet cleaning beater would be useful.


----------



## overanalyze

I cut about 5' off my Midi cord. The 36AC is a beast in size when you are used to the Midi. I do like having 2 good vacs on site now!


----------



## skillman

Okay we need these in North America.


----------



## aptpupil

Wtf? Why wouldn't they make it available here? Ugh


----------



## overanalyze

They're coming...they are on ebay.uk and will ship to us if you really want it.


----------



## skillman

aptpupil said:


> Wtf? Why wouldn't they make it available here? Ugh



If it's not power tool related the storage systaners should be sold world wide . Since it doesn't need the government seal in my opinion.


----------



## skillman

overanalyze said:


> They're coming...they are on ebay.uk and will ship to us if you really want it.



So the states won't see them for sometime .


----------



## aaron_a

Tom M said:


> So I like the cord length on the midi. Do you guy's put your wire in lid before your hose? I am going to have to get used to operating with a hose too. I can also see that boom arm being handy
> 
> I was surprised the cord on my ETS didn't plug into the TS today. I was going back and forth between them.


The cord for the track saw will fit any other tools, but the track saw cord wont fit most others. It is a heavier gauge cord for higher draw tools.


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> The cord for the track saw will fit any other tools, but the track saw cord wont fit most others. It is a heavier gauge cord for higher draw tools.


Huhhhhh???

The 16 ga. cords will fit any of the tools, that is the one that comes with the track saws.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> Huhhhhh???
> 
> The 16 ga. cords will fit any of the tools, that is the one that comes with the track saws.
> 
> Tom


ha, meant the other tool cords wont fit the tracksaw.

looks like it has also been addressed above. so disregard my ramblings


----------



## Tom M

:laughing: Its all good aaron, because it was already addressed I knew what you were trying to say. 
Good looking out though! :thumbsup:


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

So I bought a MFK 700 and a 1mm edge banding bit the other day. 



Went out yesterday to test it out and it seems the bit doesn’t fit with the 1.5 degree horizontal base plate. Does Festool have a dog that doesn’t hunt here or am I just not getting it? Yes… I took the bearing off the bit.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/compact-cleaning-set-ctt-loc-/p/497697/
> 
> This is a fantastic cleaning kit to leave with the vac that's rolling around. We have a couple vacs and only one of the compact cleaning kits but it stays on top of the Midi vac because that's the one that gets drug around the house.




or 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

it's the same thing less antistatic hose but they hava that too.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

CITY DECKS INC said:


> or
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> it's the same thing less antistatic hose but they hava that too.


But that one doesn't come in a systainer.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

DaVinciRemodel said:


> So I bought a MFK 700 and a 1mm edge banding bit the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> Went out yesterday to test it out and it seems the bit doesn’t fit with the 1.5 degree horizontal base plate. Does Festool have a dog that doesn’t hunt here or am I just not getting it? Yes… I took the bearing off the bit.


Sorry to quote my own post, but if someone doesn’t have an answer to this, I need to take it back next week.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

You could always call the number on the tool and ask festool.


----------



## skillman

overanalyze said:


> They're coming...they are on ebay.uk and will ship to us if you really want it.


 Do you know any of the shippers names . I looked a lot don't ship out of UK .


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Sorry to quote my own post, but if someone doesn’t have an answer to this, I need to take it back next week.


That bit is designed to be used vertically. I'm doing a bunch of 3 mm tomorrow and using the 1.5 to trim it. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. As I understand it the bit flush trims and round overs in one pass.

They have a new vertical base with a bearing brake. I plan on getting the 700 EQ/B soon.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You could always call the number on the tool and ask festool.


Too easy!


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> That bit is designed to be used vertically. I'm doing a bunch of 3 mm tomorrow and using the 1.5 to trim it. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. As I understand it the bit flush trims and round overs in one pass.
> 
> They have a new vertical base with a bearing brake. I plan on getting the 700 EQ/B soon.
> 
> Tom


Tom, while I agree that the bit is designed to be used with the vertical base – the vertical base is not designed to be used with that bit – not if you want it to ride flat on the surface of your piece. The only way I can see the bit and vertical base working is if the base rides on the narrow edge banding edge. That’s no good.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Tom, while I agree that the bit is designed to be used with the vertical base – the vertical base is not designed to be used with that bit – not if you want it to ride flat on the surface of your piece. The only way I can see the bit and vertical base working is if the base rides on the narrow edge banding edge. That’s no good.


Got it, didn't consider that with the standard vertical base, like I said haven't used the bit yet. I think that is why Festool introduced the new base. I'll let you know how it goes later. I'll probably hot glue a shim to the base to get the offset. 

Other option is trim edge band flat then round it over.

Damn you, now I have to order the 700 EQ/B.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

How does one acquire a 700 EQ/B? Got a guess as to what it costs (with shipping)?


----------



## tjbnwi

Just the base with the break

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/60/products_id/25295

The 700 EQ/B

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/60/products_id/25289

Don't order anything until later, I learned a lot today on these few pieces.

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

Ok...so in the non traditional use of tools I have a new one for you. My wife found a free dresser she wanted me to refinish. Old solid pine, all wood unit. Not in bad shape. Just had a clear coat on it. Was out of Granit paper for my Rotex so I was using Rubin. Man it was clogging with the finish fast 

We had some 40 grit Granit for the Planex...why not! Worked awesome!! Took the finish off fast and did a nice job of sanding the surfaces flat. Popped on some 80 grit after that and then switched back to my Rotex with the Rubin.


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Ok...so in the non traditional use of tools I have a new one for you. My wife found a free dresser she wanted me to refinish. Old solid pine, all wood unit. Not in bad shape. Just had a clear coat on it. Was out of Granit paper for my Rotex so I was using Rubin. Man it was clogging with the finish fast
> 
> We had some 40 grit Granit for the Planex...why not! Worked awesome!! Took the finish off fast and did a nice job of sanding the surfaces flat. Popped on some 80 grit after that and then switched back to my Rotex with the Rubin.


Sand wood with the Planex....you don't say....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdpA3j7e3CA

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Used ours the other day to sand a screen porch floor before a coat of porch and floor paint.


----------



## tjbnwi

I had an opportunity to use my Conturo today. Actually I got to watch someone use my Conturo today after I showed him how to use the unit one the first piece. I did get to do the trimming. This was the tools maiden voyage, it was a pleasant journey to say the least. 

The panel being edge banded was particle board core melamine. The edge banding was 3 mm PVC, about 80' total.

The Conturo is easy to set up and adjust. It was used hand held, balance of the unit is superb. 

When we set up for the first pieces, temp setting 2 was used, 200ºC, that is what was recommend and we stayed with that setting. For the first run I increase the amount of glue 2 units over center. I chose to do this because of the core. After a few pieces I did change the amount setting to 2 units below center, plenty of glue, less squeeze out.

The 3 mm is very stiff to run. The Conturo ran and feed it just fine, it was getting the memory from the roll out of the band that was an issue. On the second run I decided to place the edge band in an oven set on Warm, about 120ºF. After about 5 minutes in the oven the edge banding was much more flexible and easier to set to the board edge. Only issue was tack time of the adhesive. It went from a few seconds to about 20 seconds, this did not affect the application at all.

One issue we did have was banding slide at times. A few of the bands were drug along by to much pressure on the roller, this caused the band to shift off the corner. If you back off some of the pressure the band will slide back in place. Once that occurs continue to apply the banding. 

Guillotine trimmer is an excellent tool. Cut this 3.0 mm banding effortlessly. 

The bit I had to trim the banding was the 1.5 mm round over with rotatable cutters. I do not have the 700 EQ/B or B base for this bit so I had to modify my 700 with a spacer. After a few test cut I discovered the bit would not work properly on the 3.0 mm. The bit would round over the edge but the flat cutting edge did not reach the board edge of the banding. I ended up using the 700 in the horizontal position with a 0º base and a 19 mm straight bit.

The carbide scraper is a tool you don't know you needed until you used one. To use the scraper make sure you wrap the cord as shown in the picture on the back of the Systainer it comes in. The cord rides against the face of the board and places the cutting edge at the proper angle. Having the cord in this position makes it much easier to use than the scraper flat against the face of the board. 

The Conturo is a tool that does what it claims to do and does it well. 

The modification I made to the 700 base. The spacer is 1/4" plywood, screws to make it work are 4mm x 0.7 x 12mm

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

What?? No pics of what you edgebanded?


----------



## Mort

Got me a Domino on the way. Got a screamin' deal on one along with a bunch of tenons. I hope all you f***ers haven't been lying about how good it is.


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> What?? No pics of what you edgebanded?


Nothing exciting. They are replacement shelves for these cabinets. They originals were edge banded on a stationary machine. For some reason the stationary machine really screwed up the 3 mm. 

No pictures of todays work.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Had my domino for 3 years. Never calibrated it, never broke a bit (used on lots of ipe and by my 9 year old) mostly exterior projects.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

TimelessQuality said:


> I think, unless you're cutting composites all day, the 55 will do most everything you need... I started with the 55/midi and love it:thumbsup:



With the proper blade the 55 will cut composite all day long.

IMO the only reason you need the 75 over the 55 is depth of cut. Proper blade selection is key as with any tool though.

I do not own the 75 because I primarily use it for 3/4" material or thinner. I rip doors, butcher block, and other things, but the bulk of my use is 3/4" thick or less.


----------



## kixnbux

The 55 cuts around 2 inches deep if I've read correctly. That would cut an interior door but not an exterior door? Just thinking this through well before I jump


----------



## overanalyze

I haven't ever had the need for the 75 yet either. The 55 will cut just shy of 2" thick and that has been more than enough for me. Blade selection is definitely something to be conscious of. The blade that comes with it is a good general to fine use blade. We have one for composites, ripping, and two finish blades.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> I had an opportunity to use my Conturo today. Actually I got to watch someone use my Conturo today after I showed him how to use the unit one the first piece. I did get to do the trimming. This was the tools maiden voyage, it was a pleasant journey to say the least.
> 
> The panel being edge banded was particle board core melamine. The edge banding was 3 mm PVC, about 80' total.
> 
> The Conturo is easy to set up and adjust. It was used hand held, balance of the unit is superb.
> 
> When we set up for the first pieces, temp setting 2 was used, 200ºC, that is what was recommend and we stayed with that setting. For the first run I increase the amount of glue 2 units over center. I chose to do this because of the core. After a few pieces I did change the amount setting to 2 units below center, plenty of glue, less squeeze out.
> 
> The 3 mm is very stiff to run. The Conturo ran and feed it just fine, it was getting the memory from the roll out of the band that was an issue. On the second run I decided to place the edge band in an oven set on Warm, about 120ºF. After about 5 minutes in the oven the edge banding was much more flexible and easier to set to the board edge. Only issue was tack time of the adhesive. It went from a few seconds to about 20 seconds, this did not affect the application at all.
> 
> One issue we did have was banding slide at times. A few of the bands were drug along by to much pressure on the roller, this caused the band to shift off the corner. If you back off some of the pressure the band will slide back in place. Once that occurs continue to apply the banding.
> 
> Guillotine trimmer is an excellent tool. Cut this 3.0 mm banding effortlessly.
> 
> The bit I had to trim the banding was the 1.5 mm round over with rotatable cutters. I do not have the 700 EQ/B or B base for this bit so I had to modify my 700 with a spacer. After a few test cut I discovered the bit would not work properly on the 3.0 mm. The bit would round over the edge but the flat cutting edge did not reach the board edge of the banding. I ended up using the 700 in the horizontal position with a 0º base and a 19 mm straight bit.
> 
> The carbide scraper is a tool you don't know you needed until you used one. To use the scraper make sure you wrap the cord as shown in the picture on the back of the Systainer it comes in. The cord rides against the face of the board and places the cutting edge at the proper angle. Having the cord in this position makes it much easier to use than the scraper flat against the face of the board.
> 
> The Conturo is a tool that does what it claims to do and does it well.
> 
> The modification I made to the 700 base. The spacer is 1/4" plywood, screws to make it work are 4mm x 0.7 x 12mm
> 
> Tom


Got a few questions for you:

Is there a reason you did not use the 1.5 degree horizontal base with the straight bit?

What was the cutter length on the straight bit? 

The scraper looks like a winner on melamine. What are your thoughts on using it on wood veneers? Will it mar the surface?


----------



## TimelessQuality

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> With the proper blade the 55 will cut composite all day long.


Unless you're from Cali and named Mike:jester:


----------



## kixnbux

Well I'm headed to get one if they have it in stock 👍🏻


----------



## aptpupil

If you want to cut ss sheets, then you'll need the 75.


----------



## kixnbux

aptpupil said:


> if you want to cut ss sheets, then you'll need the 75.



ss?


----------



## aptpupil

Stainless steel


----------



## kixnbux

I thought that might be what you meant. I've never had to cut that though. What steel I have had to cut I just use a Lennox blade in my dewalt saw...


----------



## Calidecks

TimelessQuality said:


> Unless you're from Cali and named Mike:jester:


Nope, the ts55 isn't the best saw for cutting composite. The Makita is considering the price. Considering I've owned three brands, I have a good idea of how they perform. 

I'm pretty sure I cut as much if not more composite on here with a track saw then anyone else.


----------



## TimelessQuality

Just ribbin' ya Mike 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Had my domino for 3 years. Never calibrated it, never broke a bit (used on lots of ipe and by my 9 year old) mostly exterior projects.


I calibrated all 4 of my Dominos to match. Had a job with multiple operations performed by different people at different locations. All the pieces had to fit together. 

Went through 12-5 mm bits in a month, got to a point where I could tell by the sound of the cut when the bit was going to break. They'd break anywhere from 5 plunges to 6000 plunges. Festool did replace 6 of them I believe, they claimed it was me. That did make me laugh, I now use the CMT cutters. Maybe some day I'll learn how to use a Domino.


Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Got a few questions for you:
> 
> Is there a reason you did not use the 1.5 degree horizontal base with the straight bit?
> 
> What was the cutter length on the straight bit?
> 
> The scraper looks like a winner on melamine. What are your thoughts on using it on wood veneers? Will it mar the surface?


I have the 0º base for other operations, by using the the 0º base there is no pitch on the edge banding. Not real noticeable on the 3 mm but on 18 mm solid wood it is very noticeable. 

This is the bit I use. I also have the planer bit for the 700. I adjusted the follower bearing for 3.5-4 mm of exposed cutter. With the base height properly set there was no making of the board surface. Don't tilt the router----it's a bad thing:whistling

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/10768

Went out and tried the scraper on oak and maple veneer plywood, no scratches with or cross grain.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Beginning the Festool life 😀


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> View attachment 223433
> 
> 
> Beginning the Festool life 😀


You forgot the rail.....:blink:

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> You forgot the rail.....:blink:
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Got two 55" ones in the truck bed. Clamps. Joining pieces. 3 blades. Hope I'm covered for a bit 😀😀


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> Got two 55" ones in the truck bed. Clamps. Joining pieces. 3 blades. Hope I'm covered for a bit 😀😀


You're good until Tuesday when the next tool bug bites you. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> You're good until Tuesday when the next tool bug bites you.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Checked out the track saw setup on the mft 3 while I was there. Gotta have that too I think. Maybe next month... Week? 😁


----------



## overanalyze

Awesome haul! Congrats!


----------



## Kolbym

> Beginning the Festool life 😀


The compact cleaning kit, with the addition of the brush attachment, is a great addition to the midi. Well worth the money, I think.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

tjbnwi said:


> I calibrated all 4 of my Dominos to match. Had a job with multiple operations performed by different people at different locations. All the pieces had to fit together.
> 
> Went through 12-5 mm bits in a month, got to a point where I could tell by the sound of the cut when the bit was going to break. They'd break anywhere from 5 plunges to 6000 plunges. Festool did replace 6 of them I believe, they claimed it was me. That did make me laugh, I now use the CMT cutters. Maybe some day I'll learn how to use a Domino.
> 
> 
> Tom



Hopefully one day you figure it out.

I currently have a paddle that is glued in the closed position.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

With a chain mortiser, hollow chisel mortiser, and an oscillating chisel mortiser the domino is kind of unneeded most of the time.


----------



## kixnbux

Had to play with it some at least today! Love it!!


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Hopefully one day you figure it out.
> 
> I currently have a paddle that is glued in the closed position.


Maybe some day, one can hope.....

You're the first one I've heard of with a glued paddle.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I am not the typical user. I have glue all over the front handle too. Oops.


----------



## Spencer

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Hopefully one day you figure it out.
> 
> I currently have a paddle that is glued in the closed position.


I've got a tiny square piece of wood glued up in the kapex blade guard that makes is so i don't have to pull the trigger to drop the saw. Had duct tape on the top button but its slipping. Think I'm going to glue that with some 2p10 too.


----------



## TimelessQuality

kixnbux said:


> View attachment 223489
> 
> 
> Had to play with it some at least today! Love it!!


Don't be cuttin' off momma's porch now


----------



## kixnbux

TimelessQuality said:


> Don't be cuttin' off momma's porch now



That'd be my log cabin on the lake front porch 😜


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Spencer said:


> I've got a tiny square piece of wood glued up in the kapex blade guard that makes is so i don't have to pull the trigger to drop the saw. Had duct tape on the top button but its slipping. Think I'm going to glue that with some 2p10 too.


Cut the corner off the guide rib on the clear guard part. I like the double trigger safety idea, but it does not work smooth or fast enough for my liking.


----------



## Spencer

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Cut the corner off the guide rib on the clear guard part. I like the double trigger safety idea, but it does not work smooth or fast enough for my liking.



I wanted to do something that didn't permanently alter the saw so that I wouldn't have any warranty issues if I ever would need to send it in. May still do that though if the wood piece ever fails me. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## kixnbux

Thinking about getting a Kapex and an MFT/3, question I have is I want the full size MFT3 kit with the Tracksaw setup with it but will also use kapex on it until I get something better. 

The left and right extensions for the kapex, will they adjust high enough with their legs to be able to use them on the taller MFT?


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> Thinking about getting a Kapex and an MFT/3, question I have is I want the full size MFT3 kit with the Tracksaw setup with it but will also use kapex on it until I get something better.
> 
> The left and right extensions for the kapex, will they adjust high enough with their legs to be able to use them on the taller MFT?


As you can see from these photos the UG Wings align to the MFT 3 (also aligns to the CMS). With the Kapex on top of the MFT the Kapex deck will be a Systainer 1 higher than the work surface.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

I was wondering about the ones that actually connect to the kapex sides. Any chance they'd run across the table top to it to keep the cutting surface all flat?


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> I was wondering about the ones that actually connect to the kapex sides. Any chance they'd run across the table top to it to keep the cutting surface all flat?


Those are the wings that connect to the side of the Kapex. The UG/L and UG/R.

Only picture I have of the UG Wings and Kapex on the UG stand.

UG wings on the CMS.

All of the work surfaces are at the same height. That is why the MFT Kapex is shorter, brings the deck to the proper height. If you're asking if the UG wings will work with the Kapex on the MFT Kapex, yes they will connect to the saw. If you want to use the Kapex on an MFT 3, then connect the UG Wings, you will have to make spacers to bring the leg to the proper height. 

I'm 6'1 and think the it will be way to tall on an MFT 3 to be comfortable.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Gotcha. Sorry I'm just trying to figure out which way to go with it all! Really appreciate your feedback!


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> Gotcha. Sorry I'm just trying to figure out which way to go with it all! Really appreciate your feedback!


I don't understand what you're apologizing for?

I like the MFT 3, I know other who don't. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Seemed like my question might've been a dumb one is all lol. I played with the MFT/3 last weekend at woodcraft and liked it a lot. I just want a kapex too and not too sold on buying the smaller table instead with no track saw toys as I may find myself using it with that a lot


----------



## brhokel606

Kixnbux,

Look up the betterly guide, it's a rail connector gauge and makes hooking the rails simple and straight as an arrow, I love mine! I got a 3rd 55" rail so I can cut 4' and 8' without having to take anything apart. It is so much easier storing those 3 (and way cheaper) than have 1 106" rail. Also the advice of using the Makita edges on the Festool rails is awesome. Sticks much better and I actually like the black edge instead of the clear Festool edge. I don't remember who recommended it but thanks guys, I love those edges.

Little info on the Kapex, as a few of you know I got the CT26 and Kapex this spring. I spent most of the summer on exterior jobs and concrete work. This last week I started a large trim job on a new house and holy crap I love the Kapex! I had used it here and there before this last week but have made hundreds of cuts, fine and exact cuts, this week and that saw is worth every penny. The house is empty so I have been able to cut inside which is nice and the vac on auto is sweet, who would have thought that something so simple as not having to hit the saw switch on and off every cut would be so nice. 

The dust from cuts is a bit more than I was expecting but actually not bad, I have rozein paper everywhere so not that big of a deal, full and occupied house with kids, might have to get Fastcap hood. But the saw is so accurate, blade deflection is not noticable if you don't force the saw, my other saws still would walk on hardwoods even without any pressure. I love the Kapex, just had to post about it if anyone is thinking about getting into Festool, expensive yes but your fine trim work will see the results from superior tools. The track saw and Kapex makes my trim work look awesome and everything before looking like I was trying to do calligraphy with crayons.

Thnaks for all the advice guys!


----------



## Sisyphus

"....If you can remember ever tool and consumable product you need for a job that covers multiple trades everyday good for you. I can't...."

I can't either, that's how I ended up with about 10 caulking guns (SIGH).


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Spencer said:


> I wouldn't either if I worked out of the back of a suburban.
> 
> There are jobs where I wouldn't want to live without the Paulk bench, it's superiority has made the mft pretty much completely useless to me.
> 
> The mft is way to small to do any real work on and paying that kind of money to put multiple mft's together would be a complete waste of money for me.
> 
> Truth is my mft would be just as useful as an overpriced boat anchor. It's been a complete waste of money.
> 
> The puke bench on the other hand is something that you can actually work off of for building things bigger than tinker toy boxes.



You wanting to sell your MFT?


----------



## Spencer

Tylerwalker32 said:


> You wanting to sell your MFT?



Pm me with an offer. I have no idea what shipping would be but I bet it's not cheap.


----------



## tjbnwi

Last week I went to do a job in Culver, IN. simple porch repair---so I thought. I towed the trailer because I need the break, took what I thought I needed. Well-------got there removed some butcher work and found the entire roof deck and rafters were rotted. Anticipating aluminum work, I had no framing tools, trip home to get the tools, picked up the material at the same time. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

I usually figure better to have the trailer and not need it than need it and not have it. Gas is cheap these days. Save time


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I can fit whatever I need to do whatever it is I am doing in the back of my suburban or pick up (both have 8 foot beds techinally) from some framing to some finish work to structural work. Carpenters tool chests were pretty small and they did a lot with that. I despise dragging a bunch of stuff out and then having to put it back when I am done. Next thing you know, you have a mess of cords and tools spread everywhere. 
Comes back to why I like systainers, cram 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound container. 

Next year I am going to start working out of a 60's shorty van, still be plenty of room. 

Ron Puke is a DB. He basically spammed numerous forums with his youtube videos, got you interested in his stuff, didn't contribute anything and then tried to sell you plans. 

I don't even have a decent work bench in the shop yet, right now I have storms sitting on saw horses. 
I did finally get a good vise mounted to a crappy table so I could finally teach myself how to hand cut dovetails.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

WarnerConstInc. said:


> ....
> I don't even have a decent work bench in the shop yet, right now I have storms sitting on saw horses....


I have a bunch of options, but I have to admit that one that gets a lot of use is a couple of sawhorses and whatever door I took out of the last project. If we're replacing a door in the current project it's all very easy. If it's a hollow core door I can throw some ply on it to protect it from the track saw.

Couple of old workmates, too.

The MFT rarely makes it to a job site.


----------



## CarpenterSFO

Sisyphus said:


> "....If you can remember ever tool and consumable product you need for a job that covers multiple trades everyday good for you. I can't...."
> 
> I can't either, that's how I ended up with about 10 caulking guns (SIGH).


The way I solved the caulking gun problem was to buy a Tajima for $20. It is worth it, and because I think of it as a tool, not just a piece of junk that I can replace for $3, I remember to take it along. I kept one junky one and threw away the other 5 or 6 that I had accumulated.


----------



## brhokel606

I drag a huge trailer, tried to do a few quick jobs once by just grabbing a few tools I thought I would need, takes forever to think what I might need and I always wished I had another tool.

I don't have it t show off, I think it's nice and one of the best I have ever seen, I'm biased, but it serves a purpose. I too have the speciality tools as I need them, miy skills aren't up to some of the people on this board, getting better everyday and better than most but the "fancy" tools help.

Everyone has what they prefer, i am good with that, I prefer the loaded up trailer.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

I think Rons bench is a good idea if you have the room to store it. If I was on a job for 2-3months+ I would prob build one just for that job but would have nowhere to store it after that. I remember Ron spamming a bunch of sites. It def pissed a lot of people off for sure. 

I thought about having a 8x4 MDF panel made up with festool sized holes that I could rest on the MFT's or saw horses depending on what I was doing. It would be able to stay on trailer but would be easier to store in my shed. 

Spence you should start a thread with some of this stuff you doing. Looks interesting.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> I think Rons bench is a good idea if you have the room to store it. If I was on a job for 2-3months+ I would prob build one just for that job but would have nowhere to store it after that. I remember Ron spamming a bunch of sites. It def pissed a lot of people off for sure.
> 
> I thought about having a 8x4 MDF panel made up with festool sized holes that I could rest on the MFT's or saw horses depending on what I was doing. It would be able to stay on trailer but would be easier to store in my shed.
> 
> Spence you should start a thread with some of this stuff you doing. Looks interesting.



He's started quite a few about it. Been a several month job for him.

Putting out some high quality, great looking work to.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> He's started quite a few about it. Been a several month job for him.
> 
> Putting out some high quality, great looking work to.



I don't get on here much anymore. The combination of crappy mobile site, stupid busy and working on own house meant no time on here. Been off work last 3weeks though so been on here a little so prob just missed his threads.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I can fit whatever I need to do whatever it is I am doing in the back of my suburban or pick up (both have 8 foot beds techinally) from some framing to some finish work to structural work. Carpenters tool chests were pretty small and they did a lot with that. I despise dragging a bunch of stuff out and then having to put it back when I am done. Next thing you know, you have a mess of cords and tools spread everywhere.
> Comes back to why I like systainers, cram 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound container.
> 
> Next year I am going to start working out of a 60's shorty van, still be plenty of room.
> 
> Ron Puke is a DB. He basically spammed numerous forums with his youtube videos, got you interested in his stuff, didn't contribute anything and then tried to sell you plans.
> 
> I don't even have a decent work bench in the shop yet, right now I have storms sitting on saw horses.
> I did finally get a good vise mounted to a crappy table so I could finally teach myself how to hand cut dovetails.


I didn't bring anything for framing. It was all on another job. I tore the porch completely off the house, headed home to get the framing tools and picked up the material on the way. Left the trailer on site, put everything in the truck. One of those jobs, info you were given did not match the scope once you got there.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Yes, it happens. When it happens you just try to make the best of what you can.


----------



## Spencer

BCConstruction said:


> Spence you should start a thread with some of this stuff you doing. Looks interesting.



There are several threads in the finish carpentry section and picture section from different projects. 

Spent the last 4-1/2 months on a 10k sq ft lake house trimming. Really fun job with lots of new stuff. 

Follow my link below to my Facebook page for easy viewing.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

BCConstruction said:


> I think Rons bench is a good idea if you have the room to store it. If I was on a job for 2-3months+ I would prob build one just for that job but would have nowhere to store it after that. I remember Ron spamming a bunch of sites. It def pissed a lot of people off for sure.
> 
> I thought about having a 8x4 MDF panel made up with festool sized holes that I could rest on the MFT's or saw horses depending on what I was doing. It would be able to stay on trailer but would be easier to store in my shed.
> 
> Spence you should start a thread with some of this stuff you doing. Looks interesting.


Here ya go Barri. This should keep you busy for a while. :thumbsup:

Lots of good pics of his work as well as good info from other guys throughout. Links are in the order he posted in so top is the oldest.



http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/apron-block-plane-trimming-miter-relief-suggestions-191050/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/59-degree-crown-spring-angle-10-ceiling-192906/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/how-cut-67-5-degree-miter-1x8-198681/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/w...rim-install-protecting-wood-glue-seal-196105/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/how-would-you-make-box-beam-connection-tray-ceiling-197922/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/any-advice-bending-materials-good-arch-trim-outs-202985/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/dealing-beam-height-offsets-coffered-ceiling-205113/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/a...stic-undulating-head-hew-scraped-look-202945/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/making-barn-beams-206065/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f30/hickory-coffered-ceiling-208602/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/paneled-arches-209921/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/got-my-wood-beams-up-212017/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/how-would-you-join-huge-circular-moulding-212825/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f30/secret-door-closet-214625/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/paneling-rail-stile-joinery-techniques-216297/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/c...asing-paneling-router-recommendations-212057/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f30/fireplace-mantle-woodwork-218194/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/coffered-ceiling-45-done-200881/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/put-big-medallion-together-today-218418/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f30/ugliest-mantle-ive-done-220001/

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/hidden-safe-room-door-stained-hickory-wall-paneling-211617/


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yes, it happens. When it happens you just try to make the best of what you can.


That's what I did, removed the old porch, cleaned everything up, planned for the next day. Does no good to waste the day sulking and driving around.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I haven't been to Maxinkuckee lake for years. Used to ice fish it and the lake to the west about 30 minutes away. Nice houses in Culver.


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I haven't been to Maxinkuckee lake for years. Used to ice fish it and the lake to the west about 30 minutes away. Nice houses in Culver.


This home is a cottage owned by a friends mom, it's about 2 miles from the lake. I'm not into water stuff/sports so the lake means nothing to me. 

I drive by Culver Academy to get to this job, pretty nice campus for a high school.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> This home is a cottage owned by a friends mom, it's about 2 miles from the lake. I'm not into water stuff/sports so the lake means nothing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> I drive by Culver Academy to get to this job, pretty nice campus for a high school.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



You know if you learned to swim, the water can be quite fun.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Mafell has had one for a few years now available here. The kss400
> 
> https://youtu.be/GsKsq485s8w



I've know about the KSS for a while. The KSS is not cordless.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> I've know about the KSS for a while. The KSS is not cordless.
> 
> Tom


You were ready for that weren't you? :laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> You were ready for that weren't you? :laughing:


I had looked at the Mafell about two years ago. No doubt they are really nice tools.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> I had looked at the Mafell about two years ago. No doubt they are really nice tools.
> 
> Tom


I was thinking of buying that kss400 but it's not worth it to me. I have all the tools I need and then some. However, I do have my eye on a cordless planer.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

This one appears to be cordless. He should probably be cutting 49mm treated lumber though :laughing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO4E9SMGcAw


----------



## brhokel606

My goodies arrived today.....more green Koolaid


----------



## brhokel606

tjbnwi said:


> No time line right now. I'm thinking of having one sent to me from the UK.
> 
> I have the TS-55 cordless, it is really nice......
> 
> Tom


How much more is it to have it shipped over here? I might be interested too


----------



## tjbnwi

brhokel606 said:


> How much more is it to have it shipped over here? I might be interested too


I have to price it then do the currency exchange. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

not much more. depending on exchange rates.


----------



## AGullion

If you like the idea of the cordless track saw, and I do, and don't want to wait , here is what I did.:

I bought a 6 1/2 Milwaukee Fuel 18 v circular saw and made 2 zero clearance guides ...one 4 foot long and a short one for cutting lumber ....the short one is a right angle type so it works like a speed square and zero clearance guide all in one for making perfectly square cuts and for taking 1/2 blade off,etc. 

I realize it's not exactly the same as a track saw, but its better than free hand by far and adds precision at a low cost.

I still use my TS 55 for the critical work and always will....it is my favorite tool, period. 

I ll post pics tomorrow if needed.


----------



## Calidecks

brhokel606 said:


> My goodies arrived today.....more green Koolaid


I had that sys 1 with the black insert for fasteners or whatnot. The sun destroyed it. Curled the sides up so bad it wouldn't close right.


----------



## brhokel606

Californiadecks said:


> I had that sys 1 with the black insert for fasteners or whatnot. The sun destroyed it. Curled the sides up so bad it wouldn't close right.


Hmmmmm, so what you are saying is don't leave it open outside, interesting. Never would have thought of that, thanks for the heads up Mike.


----------



## brhokel606

Although, California is closer to the sun than Iowa right? :laughing:


----------



## Calidecks

brhokel606 said:


> Hmmmmm, so what you are saying is don't leave it open outside, interesting. Never would have thought of that, thanks for the heads up Mike.


I would've never thought that either but two things come to mind. It's black and it gets up to 109 to 110 degrees out here.


----------



## overanalyze

Man who would have thought the soft pad and interface would make such a big difference on the Planex! Why don't they ship with these instead. It tames this beast a ton!


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

AGullion said:


> If you like the idea of the cordless track saw, and I do, and don't want to wait , here is what I did.:
> 
> I bought a 6 1/2 Milwaukee Fuel 18 v circular saw and made 2 zero clearance guides ...one 4 foot long and a short one for cutting lumber ....the short one is a right angle type so it works like a speed square and zero clearance guide all in one for making perfectly square cuts and for taking 1/2 blade off,etc.
> 
> I realize it's not exactly the same as a track saw, but its better than free hand by far and adds precision at a low cost.
> 
> I still use my TS 55 for the critical work and always will....it is my favorite tool, period.
> 
> I ll post pics tomorrow if needed.



sound like you made an old school shooter board?? I have one for my hilti cordless which also has a dust boot which really nice works outstanding.


----------



## AGullion

I put Pam hotmelt glue on the back of my longer one ...its kind of gummy...keeps it in place pretty good.


----------



## Calidecks

Anyone use the 260mm oshlun blades for the kapex? I like a 60t blade. Just ordered one. For 48 bucks I don't have much to lose.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IYJKVO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00


----------



## Calidecks

Pic didn't load on the first post. But here it is.


----------



## J L

Californiadecks said:


> Anyone use the 260mm oshlun blades for the kapex? I like a 60t blade. Just ordered one. For 48 bucks I don't have much to lose.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IYJKVO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00


I have an oshlun 80 tooth and an aluminum blade for the kapex. I've also got their blades for my track saw. No complaints and the price is right.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> This


they burn out. back in the day when i could not justify the cost of 500 vac no names mention i went through several of them.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

use them all the time great blades. last longer then festies for sure. 
from here 
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/search.php?search_query=festool+blades&x=0&y=0

or amazon


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> dude that wasn't even the 5.0 hp rigid and it smoked the fest. OMG....
> 
> i gotta tell ya. i have the midi and the bigass ac. the ac smokes the midi hands down and they have the same mortar. They both have the same mortar 137 cfm's and chit but the suck is no where the same. I keep hearing filter this filter that. I want that motha to suck like the big one.
> 
> i just love the the fact that midi serves as dolly with all my festi boxes it's so small and carry's it own. Th ridgid stuff just falls all over the place and it's dam loud.
> 
> i just ordered the Saw Stache from fastcap to control what it does not.
> fast cap has the remote control switch I gotta 2/pack dfrom amazon for under 30. really sweet. I think I may have sent you a pict. check your ph. I know I don't have one to resend because I've gone through 3/ samsungs in the past month.


Text pic? I'll check


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> Text pic? I'll check


text yep


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> text yep


I did get a pic of that cool handheld paint sprayer though. Nice rig!


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Californiadecks said:


> I did get a pic of that cool handheld paint sprayer though. Nice rig!


very nice indeed. i just love using that thing and gotten moneys worth 10fold. try priming / painting 16 - 5/panel doors red. 
average time for primer (gray) was 11min. 
finish coat was 15min. full door 
then used 1" tape on the wall tight up against the trim and banged out trim and jams while waiting for one side of the doors to dry. I find us using less paint / waste then a roller / brush. 

amazon
FASTCAP Remote Vacuum Control Channel-2


----------



## AGullion

Sears sells a tool activated switch also, i permanently mounted mine to one of my Paulk work benches....works well.


----------



## overanalyze

AGullion said:


> Sears sells a tool activated switch also, i permanently mounted mine to one of my Paulk work benches....works well.


We have this one too. It has worked for us for quite a few years now and I think we only paid $20 for it. Unfortunately I think they discontinued it


----------



## Sisyphus

The extra noise from the Shop Vac doesn't seem significant to me when the Kapex etc. is already running. (Gonna use ear protection anyway.) 

Festool vac excels for quiet cleaning up though.


----------



## Calidecks

Sisyphus said:


> The extra noise from the Shop Vac doesn't seem significant to me when the Kapex etc. is already running. (Gonna use ear protection anyway.)
> 
> Festool vac excels for quiet cleaning up though.


With the kapex noise anyway you're correct it's not really a big deal. I do have to say it picks up 98% of the shaving from my Mafell tracksaw. When I'm using the ct indoors its imperative that I keep the noise down and you're right it does Excel.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Ok so now we have a dedicated vac for workbench, indoors, miter saw, general cleanup, and fancy hush mode clean up.....there's no end in site.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Californiadecks said:


> 79.00 ridgid hooked to my kapex vs. 500.00 CT hooked to my kapex. As usual the festool is under powered. You'd think that i could at least get the same power as the cheap Vacs. I'm thinking of just using a Deadman switch on my ridgid and dedicating the CT to my mafell tracksaw.
> 
> Here's a demo with composite.
> 
> Ridgid:


Does this mean you’ll start cutting inside a finished house? :jester:


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Californiadecks said:


> This


Mike, I have a few of those i-sockets. They say they are rated for 15 amps and my experience is that that is an overstatement – my guess is somewhere closer to 11 – 12. With that vac and the Kapex you’ll be running at about 23. I don’t think it will last long.

Keep us updated on how it works.


----------



## C&C Custom Trim

I have a couple of the ivac automated switches that allow the shop vac and tool to run off different circuits. Find everything works better than the i-socket type without all the blown breakers.


----------



## Calidecks

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Does this mean you’ll start cutting inside a finished house? :jester:


It's still too much for inside. I have higher cleanliness standards inside homes.


----------



## Calidecks

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Mike, I have a few of those i-sockets. They say they are rated for 15 amps and my experience is that that is an overstatement – my guess is somewhere closer to 11 – 12. With that vac and the Kapex you’ll be running at about 23. I don’t think it will last long.
> 
> Keep us updated on how it works.


The kapex soft start may help.


----------



## TimelessQuality

My I-socket has taken everything I've thrown at it









Including a hammer obviously



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## asevereid

TimelessQuality said:


> My I-socket has taken everything I've thrown at it


Same here... And the shop vac too. 
I've run it continuously for up to 40 minutes cutting stucco or sanding.


----------



## Sisyphus

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Ok so now we have a dedicated vac for workbench, indoors, miter saw, general cleanup, and fancy hush mode clean up.....there's no end in site.


Just need two (or maybe seven??). I leave expendable Shop Vacs at various locations, saves hauling them around and they're clean with the HEPA Filter/ Drywall Bag combo. Saves my CT for sanding and other quiet times. (Of course if I was on site with lots of other trades using my stuff.....)


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Side note anybody use / have dust deputy. I'm using my shop more and more and every weekend for the last month or so getting tiered of costly vac bags. Burning up a lot of reclaimed timbers . Running the tablessing saw, planer. If it works I was thinking 55g barrel hook up with trash bag.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Not like you / we want more chachkies but did you think of fast cap dust hood.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Not like you / we want more chachkies but did you think of fast cap dust hood.


That doesn't keep it from throwing up all over the saw table. :laughing:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Then there's no end in site.


----------



## Calidecks

I'm afraid to buy the a bosch. Not knowing what to expect with power. Already had a ridgid, that made it cheap to compare.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

It never ends. Either fkit or reach into your pocket. I'm done and say fkit.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

It never ends. Either fkit or reach into your pocket. I'm done and say fkit.


----------



## Calidecks

You can say that again. :laughing:


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Buy from cpo outlets they have free s/h both ways. So test and send it back with in 30days. It's like fest but with everything they sell


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Fkit.....I'm done witdischit


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I miss the good old days of just grabbing big yeller and whalin away. Didn't even matter if the blade was dull it still did good job.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Buy from cpo outlets they have free s/h both ways. So test and send it back with in 30days. It's like fest but with everything they sell


Really? That's very cool. I buy from them often. Good to know


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I may hate my sparky right now but would never a stear a fellow tradesman wrong. We work to hard.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I may hate my sparky right now but would never a fellow tradesman wrong. We work to hard.


Sparkys think they're at the top of the food chain.


----------



## CPMKW

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Side note anybody use / have dust deputy. I'm using my shop more and more and every weekend for the last month or so getting tiered of costly vac bags. Burning up a lot of reclaimed timbers . Running the tablessing saw, planer. If it works I was thinking 55g barrel hook up with trash bag.


Look up the "Thein Baffle" tons of info out the on it and it works as advertised. I made a baffle for my brute can and use it hooked to the planer and table saw. Bag in the shop vac lasts for months now. 

Link:
http://www.jpthien.com/cy.htm


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Thanks man. I just ordered the dd.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I just think it's sad that the festi cost a boat load with remarkable features and the throw away has more balls.



It's because of the filtration level
Low filtration = high power 
High filtration = low power

It's the reason the CT26 is so much more powerful with the AC filter. 

Use the Festool with a filter in quality to the ridgid and it won't be nothing in it suction wise when it's equal amps.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> It's because of the filtration level
> Low filtration = high power
> High filtration = low power
> 
> It's the reason the CT26 is so much more powerful with the AC filter.
> 
> Use the Festool with a filter in quality to the ridgid and it won't be nothing in it suction wise when it's equal amps.


I use the sponge filter on the ct. Barely made a difference


----------



## Calidecks

Californiadecks said:


> I use the sponge filter on the ct. Barely made a difference


That test I did had the sponge. Doesn't get any more porous than that.


----------



## Calidecks

Not to mention composite dust is not fine dust, it's like confetti unlike mdf or even hardwood.


----------



## tjbnwi

Mike, I'd watch cutting small piece of trim with the Ridgid vac connected to the Kapex. Appears as if they'd end up in the vac.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Yep depot sells them. There right there with fest pricing. They work well for general clean up. I dont typiclly use inside if the room are finished or using tools there always hooked up to fest vac. Ridged with bag Still puff blow dust out the back when starting but that's drywall or plaster dust you won't see saw dust or composite get out if bag filter. Maybe ipe because that about as fine as drywall dust but only if the bag is packed. Again if it's outside so what. And you wouldn't even know what to do with ipe anyway. So again better then fine with bag in ridged.


----------



## Spencer

Californiadecks said:


> Using a hepa filter outside cutting composite not only doesn't work it's not something I'd want to waste and 80 dollar filter on. It restricts airflow. I think using the sponge or no filter at all is best for that. I wouldn't even use a vac if the kapex didn't throw the shavings in my face.


Why not switch saws? Is the kapex really needed for what you're doing? Or are you just after the dust collection?


----------



## Calidecks

Spencer said:


> Why not switch saws? Is the kapex really needed for what you're doing? Or are you just after the dust collection?


I really like the light wieght. After spending 2k on a saw and vac, it's tough to just throw in the towel. However I do like the dust collection because I'm around pools and Jacuzzis on 75% of my jobs.

I mainly need a miter saw for railing.


----------



## Calidecks

Dan_Watson said:


> Our Bosch vacs destroy our Ridgids for that kind of work. We only use the Ridgids for demo now. The Midi stats are way under the Bosch, about 20% less.


Dan have you ever used the bosch vac with a kapex? If so, how'd it compared to the ct? Thanks


----------



## brhokel606

Californiadecks said:


> Dan have you ever used the bosch vac with a kapex? If so, how'd it compared to the ct? Thanks


I would like to know the samething, I have a few large shop vacs that work well, just big, bulky and very loud. I have wondered how well the Bosch and Dewalt vacs are. I Had a Rigid and hated it, I think it was the 8 gallon, suction was ok but it was so fricken loud it was ridiculous. It has kept me away from buying another, plus I really don't want a monstrous vac just to get the powerful suction. Give me high CFPM in a 8 gallon, not 14 or 16.

I like the CT26 alot, bags aren't cheap and my larger shop vacs provide a noticable amount of greater suction. What irritates me right now is there isn't a standardized noise and suction ability scale. I know they have CFPM but that is subjective and done by manufacturers. Not that I want big brother checking up on something else but would really like a better apples to apples comparison.


----------



## Sisyphus

brhokel606 said:


> I would like to know the samething, I have a few large shop vacs that work well, just big, bulky and very loud. ....


Perhaps it depends on the model. Tested one of my Shopvacs and it was 72db, as they age they seem to be getting noisier. (Or maybe I'm getting crankier?) CT is however almost as quiet as the broom.


----------



## Calidecks

Sisyphus said:


> Perhaps it depends on the model. Tested one of my Shopvacs and it was 72db, as they age they seem to be getting noisier. (Or maybe I'm getting crankier?) CT is however almost as quiet as the broom.


Maybe if the ct had the same power as a shop vac it wouldn't be so quiet. I'd sacrifice "quiet" for more/enough power any day of the week.


----------



## Dan_Watson

Californiadecks said:


> Dan have you ever used the bosch vac with a kapex? If so, how'd it compared to the ct? Thanks


No. Maybe City will meet up to try.....


----------



## J L

Here's some pics of my homemade bedslide full of festool goodies :thumbup:


----------



## aptpupil

Slick. How does it glide? Things ever tip on left hand side?


----------



## J L

aptpupil said:


> Slick. How does it glide? Things ever tip on left hand side?


It glides OK. If I wasn't such a cheap bastid and actually bought some quality casters it would glide much better. 

On the left I've got 4 syscart bases to lock in the systainers. No tipping there. :thumbsup:


----------



## kixnbux

That is slick man!!! 🏻🏻🏻


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

J L said:


> Here's some pics of my homemade bedslide full of festool goodies :thumbup:


bare bones. I like it:thumbsup: are the extension wings on the bottom left? What brand are they? They look too wide to be festie's.


----------



## J L

CITY DECKS INC said:


> bare bones. I like it:thumbsup: are the extension wings on the bottom left? What brand are they? They look too wide to be festie's.


Good call on the extension wings. They are crown stops with some homemade extensions. :thumbsup: 

Let me see if I can dig up a photo


----------



## J L

Here's a pic of my kapex setup cutting 20' crown


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

J L said:


> Here's a pic of my kapex setup cutting 20' crown


I remember seeing them on another post here on Ct. 

btw nice. I like the lil leg. Is there any sway? 
why such big holes.


----------



## J L

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I remember seeing them on another post here on Ct.
> 
> btw nice. I like the lil leg. Is there any sway?
> why such big holes.


There's actually very little sway with it since the crown stop is secured to the saw. The little leg is slightly long so you can put it plumb and be slightly high or kick it in slightly to drop the wing height. 

The holes are for weight. I had some pieces of oak laying around the shop so that's what I used to build it. Ended up being heavier than I wanted so I drilled a bunch of 3 1/2" holes which reduced the weight by a lot and now they're not so akward to carry.


----------



## J L

Here's a pic of the slide before the slide portion got installed. I ended up adding a few more casters to the middle portion later on. Notice the extension slide out that comes out to the edge of the tailgate which allows the slide to extend out further than if the cantilever point was just inside the truck bed.


----------



## brhokel606

I did a bit of research. The Festools tend to be at 137 CFM for suction, Dewalt 140, Makita 138, Rigid anywhere from 110 to 200, Shopvac 110 to 205 CFM. Of the big 3, I don't think any of us could tell the difference in suction, IMO.

Here is the problem, each company does their own tests and I tend to believe Festool, Dewalt and Makita but not sure Rigid and Shopvac are on the up and up. Are they only using the foam filter too where the others have HEPA filters. This could make a huge difference I would think. We all know the big 3 are quieter but are the cheaper vacs sucking more because of less filtration?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

brhokel606 said:


> I did a bit of research. The Festools tend to be at 137 CFM for suction, Dewalt 140, Makita 138, Rigid anywhere from 110 to 200, Shopvac 110 to 205 CFM. Of the big 3, I don't think any of us could tell the difference in suction, IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the problem, each company does their own tests and I tend to believe Festool, Dewalt and Makita but not sure Rigid and Shopvac are on the up and up. Are they only using the foam filter too where the others have HEPA filters. This could make a huge difference I would think. We all know the big 3 are quieter but are the cheaper vacs sucking more because of less filtration?



I'm betting CFM is done without filters on all of them. Reason being is the ct36AC has same CFM as ct26 but it has noticeably more suction. Mainly because of the lower filtration level of the filter. If they were tested with filters the AC would have higher CFM.


----------



## Calidecks

charimon said:


> They do work well for what they are, and yes i agree on the old shopvac as a container, but there is NO comparison to a high CFM vac that uses cyclonic action as a part of it.


So what's the vac that's high cfm, cyclonic you're talking about?


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> So what's the vac that's high cfm, cyclonic you're talking about?


He mentioned two.

Oneida Dust Cobra and Ermator.

Locally PulseBac are really popular amongst concrete grinders.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

J L said:


> 3/4" x 6" or so. If I were to do it again, I'd use a piece of 3/4" ply on the flat (like the oak is now) and have 2" tall pieces of ply on the front and back edges for rigidity. I currently have a single 2" piece on the back for rigidity but I'd like to add one more on the front at some point. I'd do the holes again to reduce weight and to allow for clamping.


do a dato and incert 1/4" or 3/8 flat stock alum.


----------



## Agility

Agility said:


> My Fein Turbo II says 151 CFM actually.
> 
> But seriously, I do love the Fein vac. It just doesn't have the variable suction like the CT. Fein gives you a little adapter for the end of the hose that allows you to adjust how much suction is lost out of a little hole. It hasn't been a problem for me but it seems kinda cheap.
> 
> It's pretty quiet too. The Fein website says 66 db.



I bought a CT Midi today. I didn't have them both on site today for a head-to-head but already I prefer the Fein. I'm pretty sure I'll keep the Midi because I really like the size (and sys-compatibility) and need a second vac. 

The Midi may prove to be a superior machine for sanding since the Fein doesn't do variable suction very well, but I haven't tried yet. 

All the CTs have the same CFM, correct? It's just capacity and hose size that differ? 

The suction I have makes sense for the size of the Midi but if I bought something similar to the Fein in size and got Midi suction I would be disappointed.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

The problem is lots of vac's have is they can't have tool activation built in because they already pull too many Amps to over load a circuit let alone a saw running through it too. If they increase the motor power to increase CFM they would prob have to loose the tool outlet and run some kind of other system which won't be as easy as just one cable. 

When I used to run my Bosch axial glide on the ridgid I couldn't run them on Same circuits as it would trip breaker almost every damn time.


----------



## Agility

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

I just wheeled my new Midi - with a stack of systainers attached -into the house for some evening home projects and decided it was totally worth it. Everything I need in one trip. I love it when everything works as a system.


----------



## Agility

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



BCConstruction said:


> The problem is lots of vac's have is they can't have tool activation built in because they already pull too many Amps to over load a circuit let alone a saw running through it too. If they increase the motor power to increase CFM they would prob have to loose the tool outlet and run some kind of other system which won't be as easy as just one cable.
> 
> When I used to run my Bosch axial glide on the ridgid I couldn't run them on Same circuits as it would trip breaker almost every damn time.



I hadn't even considered that. 

I haven't run into that problem with my Fein (I also use a Bosch Axial Glide) but I did notice that the Midi has a much beefier power cord. I believe it's longer too.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Agility said:


> I just wheeled my new Midi - with a stack of systainers attached -into the house for some evening home projects and decided it was totally worth it. Everything I need in one trip. I love it when everything works as a system.



Yeah sometimes that system thing trumps the power weakness in their tools. 

They don't have the most powerful saws, drills, impacts, sanders, vacuums etc etc but they trump everyone else in quality, tool selection, light weight, working smarter, storage as a whole etc etc 

That's why I no longer own the axial glide or the ridgid vac's. More powerful but fall short in every other front.


----------



## asevereid

Just saw this on my YouTube feed...might be old news to a bunch of you, but it's news to me:


----------



## brhokel606

Decided on the vac today!


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Anyone got the Centrotec Installers Set? Any reviews?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Take the bag out of the midi, it will suck chrome off a trailer hitch ball.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Anyone got the Centrotec Installers Set? Any reviews?


Yes, about 2 generations back. I have the spur bits in the Sys, carry the Zobos in a tote.

I added the Robertson set from Atlas Tool and Machine and a set of Rocker Vix bits. 

Nice having one box to grab with all the bits I commonly use. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

Everyone on here seems to of had to modify thier ct. in order to get it to work effectively. Shorter hose, bigger hose, no bag, etc. Damn shame for the price.

And I might add it still is lacking power. Can't run it without a bag so that's not even a good solution. 

But I will say it makes a stellar tool cart. :laughing:


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> Yes, about 2 generations back. I have the spur bits in the Sys, carry the Zobos in a tote.
> 
> I added the Robertson set from Atlas Tool and Machine and a set of Rocker Vix bits.
> 
> Nice having one box to grab with all the bits I commonly use.
> 
> Tom


I’m a little disappointed the Zobos are not part of the new kit. Seems like in the old days they had a kit with Zobos and a kit without.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



Californiadecks said:


> Everyone on here seems to of had to modify thier ct. in order to get it to work effectively. Shorter hose, bigger hose, no bag, etc. Damn shame for the price.
> 
> And I might add it still is lacking power. Can't run it without a bag so that's not even a good solution.
> 
> But I will say it makes a stellar tool cart. :laughing:



I would get your vac checked out. I have had the dustless tech canister and a bunch of ridgid vac's and it is as powerful if not more powerful than any of them. Stick a decent bag and filter into the ridgid or dustless tech and they are even worse. I had to use my ridgids without a bag because they were so crap with a bag. The last ridgid I have left now is still run without a bag to get it to suck any good.

Also your stretching the modifications to the CT to make them work better. 

Shorter/bigger hoses help any vacuum. The CT's come with a thin hose a bigger hose is recommended for obvious reasons. 

And the no bag is not a modification. It's how some of their vacuums function out the box. I have used my 36 without a bag since I bought it. Works great and is very powerful even to the point the dust is touching the filter. Can't say the same for the ridgids when doing the same thing. They would have about 10% of their suction left the Festool has about 80%.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> I would get your vac checked out. I have had the dustless tech canister and a bunch of ridgid vac's and it is as powerful if not more powerful than any of them. Stick a decent bag and filter into the ridgid or dustless tech and they are even worse. I had to use my ridgids without a bag because they were so crap with a bag. The last ridgid I have left now is still run without a bag to get it to suck any good.
> 
> Also your stretching the modifications to the CT to make them work better.
> 
> Shorter/bigger hoses help any vacuum. The CT's come with a thin hose a bigger hose is recommended for obvious reasons.
> 
> And the no bag is not a modification. It's how some of their vacuums function out the box. I have used my 36 without a bag since I bought it. Works great and is very powerful even to the point the dust is touching the filter. Can't say the same for the ridgids when doing the same thing. They would have about 10% of their suction left the Festool has about 80%.


The suction without a bag drops off fast as the filter clogs. A bag keeps the suction linear, I always run bags in my Rigid.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I was just making a point about accidentally using mine half a day without a bag. 

The ct's work perfectly for what I want them to.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> I would get your vac checked out. I have had the dustless tech canister and a bunch of ridgid vac's and it is as powerful if not more powerful than any of them. Stick a decent bag and filter into the ridgid or dustless tech and they are even worse. I had to use my ridgids without a bag because they were so crap with a bag. The last ridgid I have left now is still run without a bag to get it to suck any good.
> 
> Also your stretching the modifications to the CT to make them work better.
> 
> Shorter/bigger hoses help any vacuum. The CT's come with a thin hose a bigger hose is recommended for obvious reasons.
> 
> And the no bag is not a modification. It's how some of their vacuums function out the box. I have used my 36 without a bag since I bought it. Works great and is very powerful even to the point the dust is touching the filter. Can't say the same for the ridgids when doing the same thing. They would have about 10% of their suction left the Festool has about 80%.


Nope, I tested the 2.5 hp ridgid and the ct both with and without a bag. Tested with the ridgid half full and the ct completly empty with a new bag. The Ridgid beat it on every level. That was just a 2.5 HP too. I can only imagine how the 4 or 5 HP Ridgid would leave it in its own dust. And there's nothing wrong with my ct. 

I also tested the Festool without the bag the ridgid beat it hands down. The ct doen't last too long with a good suction without a bag. Probaly why the Festool guy doesn't recommend it. 

I don't blame you Barri. Don't take things so personal. :laughing: I knew you would feel the need to defend your little vac's.

By the way I only paid 49.00 bucks for the ridgid 7 years ago.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> The suction without a bag drops off fast as the filter clogs. A bag keeps the suction linear, I always run bags in my Rigid.



It seems you have less of a clue than Mike. I own the vac and use it a lot. The suction hardly drops off at all. I'm saying 80% to be fair but it's prob more like 90% left even after container is full.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Nope, I tested the 2.5 hp ridgid and the ct both with and without a bag. Tested with the ridgid half full and the ct completly empty with a new bag. The Ridgid beat it on every level. That was just a 2.5 HP too. I can only imagine how the 4 or 5 HP Ridgid would leave it in its own dust. And there's nothing wrong with my ct.
> 
> I also tested the Festool without the bag the ridgid beat it hands down. The ct doen't last too long with a good suction without a bag. Probaly why the Festool guy doesn't recommend it.
> 
> I don't blame you Barri. Don't take things so personal. :laughing: I knew you would feel the need to defend your little vac's.
> 
> By the way I only paid 49.00 bucks for the ridgid 7 years ago.



Mike we all know how much you like to BS about stuff. This thread is no exception. I have owned and currently own enough vac's to have a good idea about how they work in comparison to each other. 

What I notice is you are only stating HP. I'm sure this is because you already know there's no HP ratings for Festool vac's. So let's stick to CFM. 

Perhaps state the models of ridgids you are using as a comparison. Are they 200CFM+ models or are they the 130cfm models like the Festool. 

Also are the ridgids limited in max amperage like the Festool so it don't over load circuits when tools are plugged into the vac or just vac's alone running in one circuit.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Mike we all know how much you like to BS about stuff. This thread is no exception. I have owned and currently own enough vac's to have a good idea about how they work in comparison to each other.
> 
> What I notice is you are only stating HP. I'm sure this is because you already know there's no HP ratings for Festool vac's. So let's stick to CFM.
> 
> Perhaps state the models of ridgids you are using as a comparison. Are they 200CFM+ models or are they the 130cfm models like the Festool.
> 
> Also are the ridgids limited in max amperage like the Festool so it don't over load circuits when tools are plugged into the vac or just vac's alone running in one circuit.


:laughing: knew you'd take the bait. You're everything I thought you were. Thanks for that. Lmao. 

I don't really care about vac's. All I know is the festool vac doesn't work worth a crap for what I need it for and that's all that matters to me. I have no reason to bs. You do however because you're so heavily invested in them. 

Do you still claim curb wieght includes your briefcase? :laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> :laughing: knew you'd take the bait. You're everything I thought you were. Thanks for that. Lmao.
> 
> I don't really care about vac's. All I know is the festool vac doesn't work worth a crap for what I need it for and that's all that matters to me. I have no reason to bs. You do however because you're so heavily invested in them.
> 
> Do you still claim curb wieght includes your briefcase? :laughing:


So as i thought. You cant stat any models because you are full of **** as normal. I have no doubt in my mind you are trying to compare a high cfm vac that has no aux to a vac that has lower CFM and an aux tool connect.

Kind of like comparing a 12v tool to a 18v tool.


----------



## Calidecks

This is a step up from my vac. They don't make mine anymore
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/6-gallon-wet-dry-vac. Mines a 2.5 peak hp.

They don't make mine anymore but judging by is labeling mine is not as powerful as this one.


----------



## Calidecks

Here's the one I tested. If saying I'm Bs'in is the best you can do I'm ok with that. Tells me you have nothing else. I too have been around vac's enough to know when one doesn't have the power I need. I'm going to be getting a Bosch soon. From all the people that have used them and a ct they say the bosch has better suction.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

This is the one i have http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-9...iKQJ6Kicd1dnp2qh3ermQaAhqL8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds 

It's ok for what i use it for as i dont run a bag in it but it aint a spot on my festools for power. Like i said you may want to get your festool looked at. 

i also have this too which is even more powerful than your one.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-5-gal-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-WD4522/100638389

Again not a spot on power compared to the festool but it does its job.


----------



## Calidecks

It's just a little guy


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Here's the one I tested. If saying I'm Bs'in is the best you can do I'm ok with that. Tells me you have nothing else. I too have been around vac's enough to know when one doesn't have the power I need. I'm going to be getting a Bosch soon. From all the people that have used them and a ct they say the bosch has better suction.


The Bosch should be better. It has higher CFM for one. I nearly bought one when they come out. I nearly bought the makita too until i see both were not Full unit certified.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’m a little disappointed the Zobos are not part of the new kit. Seems like in the old days they had a kit with Zobos and a kit without.


I have not looked at the Installer Set. I had the Zobos before the set, one of those new used purchases I could not pass up. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> The Bosch should be better. It has higher CFM for one. I nearly bought one when they come out. I nearly bought the makita too until i see both were not Full unit certified.


So we don't need to go on for 16 pages then?


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> It seems you have less of a clue than Mike. I own the vac and use it a lot. The suction hardly drops off at all. I'm saying 80% to be fair but it's prob more like 90% left even after container is full.


Go suck some insulation scraps or blown in then report back to me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Go suck some insulation scraps or blown in then report back to me.



Have done numerous times. Even left the auto clean off for about 30mins of drywall dust which anyone who sands the stuff knows how it clogs a filter and it was solid with dust and it still managed to clear it and return suction back to almost full.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> So we don't need to go on for 16 pages then?



Why would we. This ain't about facts it's about opinions. I can't argue with your opinion.


----------



## Calidecks

At 26 years old Barri's done everything tried it all and been everywhere but it's me that bs's. :laughing: unbelievable!


----------



## JFM constr

i own a bunch of vacs also .have done no specific test .3 of mine are festool .22 and 33 i believe . as for the shop type vacs [ridged ,craftsman etc] The bigger the motor or more suction the less they are effected by the plugged filter -so it seems to me . have never pulled the bag out the festools . but they are not as powerful as my big ridged or that screeming loud old craftman i use for field work .
but what ever . most of the vacs do not list cfms or whatever . I recall a review years back and fien had one that seemed to have alot more hump then the festool .small square box .yet in recent threds i have heard nothing mentioned about them .


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> At 26 years old Barri's done everything tried it all and been everywhere but it's me that bs's. :laughing: unbelievable!



Again your BS'ing Mike. I'm not 26 years old. I'm 37


----------



## Calidecks

Let's look at some facts; 

This is the vac that outperformed the midi in all the categories in my prior post. With bag, without bag, the ridgid half full and the midi with a new bag using the sponge filter.

The top one is the ridgid


----------



## J L

Managed to pick up a ts 55r insert for a cms. Pretty stoked!


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

JFM constr said:


> i own a bunch of vacs also .have done no specific test .3 of mine are festool .22 and 33 i believe . as for the shop type vacs [ridged ,craftsman etc] The bigger the motor or more suction the less they are effected by the plugged filter -so it seems to me . have never pulled the bag out the festools . but they are not as powerful as my big ridged or that screeming loud old craftman i use for field work .
> 
> but what ever . most of the vacs do not list cfms or whatever . I recall a review years back and fien had one that seemed to have alot more hump then the festool .small square box .yet in recent threds i have heard nothing mentioned about them .



All vac's list CFM. Just check in their specifications. My old ridgid was over 200cfm. That thing was an animal but it was massive too and stupidly noisy. Used to suck up toilet water at same time as drywall dust and it just kept going.


----------



## tjbnwi

J L said:


> View attachment 247241
> View attachment 247233
> 
> 
> Managed to pick up a ts 55r insert for a cms. Pretty stoked!


I have the 75. 

What fence did you get?

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Let's look at some facts;
> 
> This is the vac that outperformed the midi in all the categories in my prior post. With bag, without bag, the ridgid half full and the midi with a new bag using the sponge filter.
> 
> The top one is the ridgid



Like I said its your opinion. Paper specs say your wrong in CFM and amperage let alone my personal experience. 

As I say get your vac tested. A 130cfm 10amp vac will have no problem outperforming a 70cfm 7amp vac.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Like I said its your opinion. Paper specs say your wrong in CFM and amperage let alone my personal experience.
> 
> As I say get your vac tested. A 130cfm 10amp vac will have no problem outperforming a 70cfm 7amp vac.


Ok the specs are wrong or my ct is broken. So only your facts are true. Got it! You are such a bs'er. Must be a typo. :laughing: You're a piece of work Barri!


----------



## Calidecks

Ridgid


----------



## J L

tjbnwi said:


> I have the 75.
> 
> What fence did you get?
> 
> Tom


The sliding miter gauge. I see on their website where they have a dedicated fence but I'm not sure I'll be able to order it here.


----------



## Calidecks

Ct midi


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> Ok the specs are wrong or my ct is broken. So only your facts are true. Got it! You are such a bs'er. Must be a typo. :laughing: You're a piece of work Barri!



Yes or course Festool are lying about their specs and they are wrong and I'm wrong and you are right. There clearly nothing wrong with your vacuum it's working just as it should. 

Let me know when you wake up so we can get back to reality.


----------



## tjbnwi

J L said:


> The sliding miter gauge. I see on their website where they have a dedicated fence but I'm not sure I'll be able to order it here.


I do have the CS 70 fence. More often I use the angle head fence. I'll take some pics over the next few days and post them.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Yes or course Festool are lying about their specs and they are wrong and I'm wrong and you are right. There clearly nothing wrong with your vacuum it's working just as it should.
> 
> Let me know when you wake up so we can get back to reality.


So if I send it in and it comes back fine will you say you were wrong? Not ever going to happen. you will come up with some other excuse. When you are proven wrong then it must be the equipment? Lmfao! 

Checkmate


----------



## CrpntrFrk

Californiadecks said:


> Ct midi


Do you have larger Festool extractors also Mike? Or have you hooked up larger ones? Just wondering if something larger would do better. 

I still have not purchased a Festool extractor so I pay close attention to things like this so when I pull the trigger I make sure to get the right tool.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Californiadecks said:


> So if I send it in and it comes back fine will you say you were wrong? Not ever going to happen. you will come up with some other excuse. When you are proven wrong then it must be the equipment? Lmfao!
> 
> Checkmate



Send both your vac's for a CFM test. That will end this straight away. 

I know my vac's are more powerful than my ridgids that are higher CFM than yours which must mean either my Festool is not functioning correctly or all my ridgids never functioned correctly or the specs they post really are correct and all my vac's are functioning just how they should be.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

CrpntrFrk said:


> Do you have larger Festool extractors also Mike? Or have you hooked up larger ones? Just wondering if something larger would do better.
> 
> 
> 
> I still have not purchased a Festool extractor so I pay close attention to things like this so when I pull the trigger I make sure to get the right tool.



Course he don't. He's just making stuff up as he normally does. Remember he's an expert on stuff he don't own yet the people who own it don't know what they talking about.


----------



## Calidecks

CrpntrFrk said:


> Do you have larger Festool extractors also Mike? Or have you hooked up larger ones? Just wondering if something larger would do better.
> 
> I still have not purchased a Festool extractor so I pay close attention to things like this so when I pull the trigger I make sure to get the right tool.


The festool vac is awesome for the tracksaw. Gets 95%. If I were to do it all over again I'd probably get the bosch because of what I do with the kapex where I d need the power. That's an honest assessment. There's nothing wrong with my ct. I also like the size of the midi. 

If your cutting trim it should be a good extractor. My biggest peeve is trying to keep composite dust outta people's pools. It doesn't work well with composites.


----------



## Calidecks

CrpntrFrk said:


> Do you have larger Festool extractors also Mike? Or have you hooked up larger ones? Just wondering if something larger would do better.
> 
> I still have not purchased a Festool extractor so I pay close attention to things like this so when I pull the trigger I make sure to get the right tool.


The 36 I heard was better however they all have the same motor. So that concerns me.


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Course he don't. He's just making stuff up as he normally does. Remember he's an expert on stuff he don't own yet the people who own it don't know what they talking about.


Why would I make this up? Why?


----------



## Calidecks

BCConstruction said:


> Course he don't. He's just making stuff up as he normally does. Remember he's an expert on stuff he don't own yet the people who own it don't know what they talking about.


I've Never given an asessment on something I don't own. My posts have been about the midi which I've had a couple years.


----------



## brhokel606

CrpntrFrk said:


> Do you have larger Festool extractors also Mike? Or have you hooked up larger ones? Just wondering if something larger would do better.
> 
> I still have not purchased a Festool extractor so I pay close attention to things like this so when I pull the trigger I make sure to get the right tool.


I just got the MIdi and put the larger anti static hose on it and shortened to 6' roughly, cutting that expensive ass hose scared the crap out of me! That thing gets every spec of cutting, was really surprised. I think the larger hose and shorter hose really help too. I am trimming an entire house right now and have it inside, performs awesome. Especially coupled with the Oshlund blade! I did not want to have to turn the saw on every time, such a pain in the butt. My huge shop vac probably would suck more but I wouldn't turn it on every time.

Now the Midi just sits on the floor under the Kapex and its flawless IMO. Would do that purchase again in a heart beat. Now the CT26 gets hooked to planner, track saw, etc and has really sped things up and makes the customer very happy to see vacs hooked to tools everywhere. I am trimming a finished basement right now and running up the stairs and outside for every cut would be unproductive. My Fitbit would love it though:thumbup:


----------



## Calidecks

brhokel606 said:


> I just got the MIdi and put the larger anti static hose on it and shortened to 6' roughly, cutting that expensive ass hose scared the crap out of me! That thing gets every spec of cutting, was really surprised. I think the larger hose and shorter hose really help too. I am trimming an entire house right now and have it inside, performs awesome. Especially coupled with the Oshlund blade! I did not want to have to turn the saw on every time, such a pain in the butt. My huge shop vac probably would suck more but I wouldn't turn it on every time.
> 
> Now the Midi just sits on the floor under the Kapex and its flawless IMO. Would do that purchase again in a heart beat. Now the CT26 gets hooked to planner, track saw, etc and has really sped things up and makes the customer very happy to see vacs hooked to tools everywhere. I am trimming a finished basement right now and running up the stairs and outside for every cut would be unproductive. My Fitbit would love it though:thumbup:


Once CityDecks introduced me to oshlun for 40 bucks a piece I haven't looked back. Great blade, great price. I do agree that midi is great for trim, just lacks power for composites. :thumbsup:


----------



## StrongTower

Mike- I got a new mini last summer and my old CT 22 blows it out of the water on the Kapex. I'm cutting mdf all day long. I also see a measurable difference running seperate circuits with a seperate tool actuator box. With the actuator box the vac stays on longer as well. 

I think back when I first looked at extractors, it seemed the combination of water lift and CFM set them apart. At that time it was just Fein and Festool.


----------



## Calidecks

StrongTower said:


> Mike- I got a new mini last summer and my old CT 22 blows it out of the water on the Kapex. I'm cutting mdf all day long. I also see a measurable difference running seperate circuits with a seperate tool actuator box. With the actuator box the vac stays on longer as well.
> 
> I think back when I first looked at extractors, it seemed the combination of water lift and CFM set them apart. At that time it was just Fein and Festool.


I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm not wanting to double down on festool vac's. I think the best thing I can do is get the Bosch and cut my losses. It's about composite with me. If I was cutting fine dust all day I'd probably not be having this conversation. 

The problem I had was the shaving would clog up the port on the kapex, when I hooked up the ridgid it sucked it through unbelievably better. I thought about using the ridgid just around pools together with the "i socket" but after further thought I think I'm just going to get the Bosch and call it a day. I do like the idea of having a couple vac's onsite anyway. The Midi for the Mafell and the Bosch for the kapex. It always sucked bouncing one vac back and forth anyhow. 

Again my situation is probably not going to be the same for most. It just amazes me at the Beat down that comes with any criticism no matter how I try to put it. You'd think I was bad mouthing someone's work or something. It's quite bazaar to say the least.


----------



## brhokel606

Californiadecks said:


> I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm not wanting to double down on festool vac's. I think the best thing I can do is get the Bosch and cut my losses. It's about composite with me. If I was cutting fine dust all day I'd probably not be having this conversation.
> 
> The problem I had was the shaving would clog up the port on the kapex, when I hooked up the ridgid it sucked it through unbelievably better. I thought about using the ridgid just around pools together with the "i socket" but after further thought I think I'm just going to get the Bosch and call it a day. I do like the idea of having a couple vac's onsite anyway. The Midi for the Mafell and the Bosch for the kapex. It always sucked bouncing one vac back and forth anyhow.
> 
> Again my situation is probably not going to be the same for most. It just amazes me at the Beat down that comes with any criticism no matter how I try to put it. You'd think I was bad mouthing someone's work or something. It's quite bazaar to say the least.


Sucked, LOL! But you are right, I would find myself just making a quick cut here ans there to avoid moving vac around all the time. Kind of defeats the purpose. I haven't used the vacs outside, haven't seen the point I guess in my world, Iowa is much different than Cali. I have built decks by pools but just cut farther away, always kept everything in a close pile, swept it up and then cleaned up with shop vac. I can see you having clients that want no hint a board was cut even ln their street. 

Crpntrfrk, take the plunge....I promise you will not be sorry that you did. With the CT26 and Midi, I have over 1k in vacs and hoses, would do it again easily. Love the cleanliness of the area I am working it and so do the customers. Dang expensive to get to that point......I blame ContractorTalk for it! So does my wife, lol.

I am also seriously considering the AC36 for my porter cable drywall sander too.......

Damn you guys!!! There go my kids college funds!


----------



## tjbnwi

The red oak and maple were sanded to 180, the QSWO to 150 with an RO 125 in the Rotex mode. Paper was Granat. I get much better results with the RO on bare wood, very quickly, than the ETS. 

Tom


----------



## J L

tjbnwi said:


> The red oak and maple were sanded to 180, the QSWO to 150 with an RO 125 in the Rotex mode. Paper was Granat. I get much better results with the RO on bare wood, very quickly, than the ETS.
> 
> Tom


I think the RO sanders do great on raw wood but there is definitely a bigger learning curve with the RO series. Me personally, I can get a great finish with the RO sanders. However, I've got 20 different guys sanding and as such, I provide them with sanders that are easier to use to get a good finish every time. That means they don't get to use the RO sanders. I gave it a go initially but the guys didn't realize how fast it cut and we got some sanding divots in the wood. I found it was easier to give them a more balanced sander and let them use it like they're used to.


----------



## J L

Oh, and by the way, we use rhynogrip indasa sandpaper that has the right hole patterns for the festool sanders. We go through 5 boxes of sandpaper a week and found that it works well for us at a much better price.


----------



## StrongTower

Californiadecks said:


> I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm not wanting to double down on festool vac's. I think the best thing I can do is get the Bosch and cut my losses. It's about composite with me. If I was cutting fine dust all day I'd probably not be having this conversation.
> 
> The problem I had was the shaving would clog up the port on the kapex, when I hooked up the ridgid it sucked it through unbelievably better. I thought about using the ridgid just around pools together with the "i socket" but after further thought I think I'm just going to get the Bosch and call it a day. I do like the idea of having a couple vac's onsite anyway. The Midi for the Mafell and the Bosch for the kapex. It always sucked bouncing one vac back and forth anyhow.
> 
> Again my situation is probably not going to be the same for most. It just amazes me at the Beat down that comes with any criticism no matter how I try to put it. You'd think I was bad mouthing someone's work or something. It's quite bazaar to say the least.



I actually believe that it benefits the Kapex in power as well, just seems that the vac and saw combination robs each other of power. No matter what vac you're using.


----------



## Spencer

StrongTower said:


> I actually believe that it benefits the Kapex in power as well, just seems that the vac and saw combination robs each other of power. No matter what vac you're using.


How do you have it setup so that the saw activates the vac while they are on two different circuits? I also feel like the kapex is a pooch when its plugged into the CT26, even on 20amp new construction circuits.


----------



## mgb

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42401,72660&p=63013

There's one way.

But it's crappy to buy a high end dust extractor and then use a vac switch anyway.

I ran one for a while, but finding 2 seperate circuits with no other load was a p.i.t.a for new construction.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

On 15amp circuits I notice a big difference between being on the 20's. You have to remember that a 10amp vac and 13amp saw is gonna be a week point. I think the vac's were only rated to run upto 3.7amps on the outlet even though we all run 13-15amp tools on it.


----------



## Spencer

Its not bad until I try and bevel a hickory 1x10 at a 45. Then I'm embarrassed by my $1400 saw and $650 vac.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Spencer said:


> Its not bad until I try and bevel a hickory 1x10 at a 45. Then I'm embarrassed by my $1400 saw and $650 vac.



Yeah bevels on hard large material def ain't it's strong point. My Bosch would destroy it for that type of cut. That's when the mft3 and ts75 come out.


----------



## C&C Custom Trim

mgb said:


> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42401,72660&p=63013
> 
> 
> 
> There's one way.
> 
> 
> 
> But it's crappy to buy a high end dust extractor and then use a vac switch anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran one for a while, but finding 2 seperate circuits with no other load was a p.i.t.a for new construction.



I use these with my Ridgid vac. Works great as the vac doesn't bog as you begin cutting.


----------



## StrongTower

Spencer said:


> How do you have it setup so that the saw activates the vac while they are on two different circuits? I also feel like the kapex is a pooch when its plugged into the CT26, even on 20amp new construction circuits.



iVac box as linked above. My main builder does plugs and switches before I arrive, so I have every outlet available. One into the fridge or washer and one into a standard 15 amp or garage gfi. Helps the Kapex, especially when it's a slower spinning miter saw to start.


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> On 15amp circuits I notice a big difference between being on the 20's. You have to remember that a 10amp vac and 13amp saw is gonna be a week point. I think the vac's were only rated to run upto 3.7amps on the outlet even though we all run 13-15amp tools on it.


Rating of the CT or receptacle does not choke current to the tool/draw. The tool/draw determines current.

If the tool draws 13 amps on a 15 amp circuit it will draw 13 amps on a 20 amp circuit (assumes voltage does not change between the circuits).

The rating changed on the new CT's because the cord plug changed to a 15 amp. The rating is based on a percentage of the plug for a 15 amp circuit. 

Here is a Kapex running through a CT 22 on a 15 amp circuit. 






Tom


----------



## StrongTower

Spencer said:


> How do you have it setup so that the saw activates the vac while they are on two different circuits? I also feel like the kapex is a pooch when its plugged into the CT26, even on 20amp new construction circuits.



iVac box as linked above. My main builder does plugs and switches before I arrive, so I have every outlet available. One into the fridge or washer and one into a standard 15 amp or garage gfi. Helps the Kapex, especially when it's a slower spinning miter saw to start.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Rating of the CT or receptacle does not choke current to the tool/draw. The tool/draw determines current.
> 
> If the tool draws 13 amps on a 15 amp circuit it will draw 13 amps on a 20 amp circuit (assumes voltage does not change between the circuits).
> 
> The rating changed on the new CT's because the cord plug changed to a 15 amp. The rating is based on a percentage of the plug for a 15 amp circuit.
> 
> Here is a Kapex running through a CT 22 on a 15 amp circuit.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAa2GctonQQ
> 
> Tom



You will notice a performance difference because you have to baby the saw on the 15amp circuit plugged into the vac. On the 20amp circuits I can cut "normally" without losing the performance because of MCB's


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> You will notice a performance difference because you have to baby the saw on the 15amp circuit plugged into the vac. On the 20amp circuits I can cut "normally" without losing the performance because of MCB's


If the saw is drawing 10 amps it does not matter what the overcurrent device rating is, 10 amps on a 15 amp protected circuit and 10 amps on a 20 amp protected circuit is 10 amps. 

Cutting with the CT plugged into a 15 amp circuit, the Kapex plugged into tool receptacle with no issues at all. 

The soft start/feed back system is in the saw head not the plug, cord, CT. Motor control does not come into play until the trigger is pulled on the saw. 

If you have a voltage drop at the saw, thats a different issue.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> If the saw is drawing 10 amps it does not matter what the overcurrent device rating is, 10 amps on a 15 amp protected circuit and 10 amps on a 20 amp protected circuit is 10 amps.
> 
> Cutting with the CT plugged into a 15 amp circuit, the Kapex plugged into tool receptacle with no issues at all.
> 
> The soft start/feed back system is in the saw head not the plug, cord, CT. Motor control does not come into play until the trigger is pulled on the saw.
> 
> If you have a voltage drop at the saw, thats a different issue.
> 
> Tom


Im talking about running the saw plugged into the vacuum. Performance is not as good as on a 20amp circuit than on a 15. I was replying to Spencer's post. I know its fine if you run on different circuits. but when on the same circuit they are different saws when on 20 circuits compared to 15's

Like i said you have to baby the saw on 15 and you dont on 20. 15 will bog down and trip the breaker and 20amp wont


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> Im talking about running the saw plugged into the vacuum. Performance is not as good as on a 20amp circuit than on a 15. I was replying to Spencer's post. I know its fine if you run on different circuits. but when on the same circuit they are different saws when on 20 circuits compared to 15's
> 
> Like i said you have to baby the saw on 15 and you dont on 20. 15 will bog down and trip the breaker and 20amp wont


Works fine for me plugged into the CT with the CT plugged into a 15 amp circuit.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> Im talking about running the saw plugged into the vacuum. Performance is not as good as on a 20amp circuit than on a 15. I was replying to Spencer's post. I know its fine if you run on different circuits. but when on the same circuit they are different saws when on 20 circuits compared to 15's
> 
> Like i said you have to baby the saw on 15 and you dont on 20. 15 will bog down and trip the breaker and 20amp wont


From what you describe I think the circuit has a voltage drop problem. The voltage goes down, amperage goes up, wattage changes. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> Works fine for me plugged into the CT with the CT plugged into a 15 amp circuit.
> 
> Tom


It does for me when i baby the saw into the material. I just cant push it through the material like i do when it's on a 20amp circuit. 90% of houses in this area run 15amp circuits so i make it work but the saw has way better performance on 20amp circuits. I have to run a breaker on the CT so that i dont have to keep walking down to main panel to reset the breaker. it alos dont help when HO is running a bunch of other stuff off the same circuit too. I have trip 15's hundreds of times and never tripped a 20.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

tjbnwi said:


> From what you describe I think the circuit has a voltage drop problem. The voltage goes down, amperage goes up, wattage changes.
> 
> Tom


No idea but it happens on every house i work in with 15amp circuits.


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> No idea but it happens on every house i work in with 15amp circuits.


If you get a chance plug a meter into the circuit and run the saw as you normally would, note the voltage. If it drops more than a few percent theres a problem.
Usually the problem is distance from the panel.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Never tripped any breaker using my saw with any if my CT's.

A 45 bevel in hickory is a tough cut for any 120v miter saw. 

Although I have beveled 1x12 ipe with no issues. 

I also run blades with 60t or less for most work.


----------



## Spencer

tjbnwi said:


> From what you describe I think the circuit has a voltage drop problem. The voltage goes down, amperage goes up, wattage changes.
> 
> Tom


I think this is the issue. Generally I'm running a 50' cord to get to the saw. Then a lot of times its got other stuff plugged into it on top of that. It comes down to not getting the power I should out of the circuit because it gets to be such a long run. All that aside, the kapex has always felt like a pooch to me compared to other miter saws. Might be in part because of the soft start but there have been many times that I've could have stalled the blade doing a bevel cut on a large board.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It does have a slip clutch that will let the blade stop instead of binding in a cut and messing some crap up. 

I routinely use a 100 foot cord.


----------



## Spencer

StrongTower said:


> iVac box as linked above. My main builder does plugs and switches before I arrive, so I have every outlet available. One into the fridge or washer and one into a standard 15 amp or garage gfi. Helps the Kapex, especially when it's a slower spinning miter saw to start.


What blades are you running on your kapex? Still like the miter pro? I bought the tenryu silencer and liked it. Its ready for a resharpening and I need to pick another good trim blade up. Miter pro is about 50 bucks and the silencer is 90. Didn't know if its worth the extra cost?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Tom recommended me a place that sells nice blades. I just bought a 40tooth I think it was and they bored it out to fit the kapex. Total was about $100 but extremely happy with how nice it cuts. It's a little smaller than the Festool blades though.


----------



## brhokel606

Spencer said:


> What blades are you running on your kapex? Still like the miter pro? I bought the tenryu silencer and liked it. Its ready for a resharpening and I need to pick another good trim blade up. Miter pro is about 50 bucks and the silencer is 90. Didn't know if its worth the extra cost?


I love the Oshlund for $60, will buy another


----------



## Spencer

brhokel606 said:


> I love the Oshlund for $60, will buy another



I've got a few oshlund. To me they are a decent multipurpose blade. Good for job where you're doing a lot of chopping but you don't want to dull up your good blade. 

I'm doing a job right now cutting a lot of car siding square and have a bunch of oak hardwood flooring to cut. They are great for those jobs but they leave something to be desired for higher end work.


----------



## StrongTower

Spencer said:


> What blades are you running on your kapex? Still like the miter pro? I bought the tenryu silencer and liked it. Its ready for a resharpening and I need to pick another good trim blade up. Miter pro is about 50 bucks and the silencer is 90. Didn't know if its worth the extra cost?



I reserve the miterpro for nice stain grade, use the silencer for paint, along with a couple festool blades.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Wtf is the deal with the app doing double posts


----------



## Calidecks

brhokel606 said:


> I love the Oshlund for $60, will buy another


I use 80t oshlun for trim and railings works great, zero tearout. 
I used it for 5" paint grade crown and there was no visible difference between it and the festool 80t. The price was certainly different though. 

I use a 60t oshlun for general purpose and composite which it actually is the best blade in quaity for those purposes, I've used as well. 

60t ......$45.00
80t.........57.00


----------



## Spencer

Californiadecks said:


> I use 80t oshlun for trim and railings works great zero tearout.
> I used it for 5" paint grade crown and there was no visible difference between it and the festool 80t. The price was certainly different though.
> 
> I use a 60t oshlun for general purpose and composite which it actually is the best blade in quaity for those purposes, I've used as well.
> 
> 60t ......$45.00
> 80t.........57.00


Can't argue with a $45 blade if its getting the job done. I don't feel like they come very sharp nor do they stay sharp very long. I ran a silencer doing nothing but trim for 4 months straight this summer before it needed a sharpening. I don't think I get anywhere near that kind of life out of an oshlun. The other aspect of it is how many sharpening are you going to get off one of those oshluns and how much are you going to spend on sharpening it each time. To me, if I can get 8 sharpenings out of a blade and I'm paying someone decent money to sharpen it each time, they may as well be sharpening a high quality blade as one or two sharpening make up that price difference.

I'm by no means a seasoned pro when it comes to blades. But the oshluns just feel different to me. Could all be in my head. I can't comment on accuracy as I haven't run quality trim with them.


----------



## Calidecks

Spencer said:


> Can't argue with a $45 blade if its getting the job done. I don't feel like they come very sharp nor do they stay sharp very long. I ran a silencer doing nothing but trim for 4 months straight this summer before it needed a sharpening. I don't think I get anywhere near that kind of life out of an oshlun. The other aspect of it is how many sharpening are you going to get off one of those oshluns and how much are you going to spend on sharpening it each time. To me, if I can get 8 sharpenings out of a blade and I'm paying someone decent money to sharpen it each time, they may as well be sharpening a high quality blade as one or two sharpening make up that price difference.
> 
> I'm by no means a seasoned pro when it comes to blades. But the oshluns just feel different to me. Could all be in my head. I can't comment on accuracy as I haven't run quality trim with them.


I don't like blades when the teeth are small from too many shapenings. (That too maybe just physiological) And I get my blades sharpened by Lietz too. They do a good job but composites are hard on blades and new blades often is just part of doing business. Nice having an economical alternative. I can say those high dollar festool blades are not a good blade at all for what I do.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

A good blade should last indefinitely. Carbide can be replaced. 

The difference in cost has to do with the blade body, carbide type and the amount of carbide. 

I have several blades that are going on 15 years old. 

60t blades are 12 bucks to sharpen, 80t are 18. 

Heck, I have my 7 1/4"
matsush!ta circular saw blades sharpened.


----------



## tjbnwi

I know someone who purchased this from HF;

http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html

He really likes the way it works. He did feel the diamond grit was a little course, but for everyday blades he had high praise for the way it worked.

Tom


----------



## Dan_Watson

WarnerConstInc. said:


> A good blade should last indefinitely. Carbide can be replaced.
> 
> The difference in cost has to do with the blade body, carbide type and the amount of carbide.
> 
> I have several blades that are going on 15 years old.
> 
> 60t blades are 12 bucks to sharpen, 80t are 18.
> 
> Heck, I have my 7 1/4"
> matsush!ta circular saw blades sharpened.


I dont have 15 year old blades. Way to young :laughing: but I agree with the rest.


----------



## Justin Huisenga

Spencer said:


> Can't argue with a $45 blade if its getting the job done. I don't feel like they come very sharp nor do they stay sharp very long. I ran a silencer doing nothing but trim for 4 months straight this summer before it needed a sharpening. I don't think I get anywhere near that kind of life out of an oshlun. The other aspect of it is how many sharpening are you going to get off one of those oshluns and how much are you going to spend on sharpening it each time. To me, if I can get 8 sharpenings out of a blade and I'm paying someone decent money to sharpen it each time, they may as well be sharpening a high quality blade as one or two sharpening make up that price difference.
> 
> I'm by no means a seasoned pro when it comes to blades. But the oshluns just feel different to me. Could all be in my head. I can't comment on accuracy as I haven't run quality trim with them.


Aside from the points Warner mentioned there are other differences in the quality of the carbide used in good blades. When they make carbide it starts out as a powder that gets mixed with metallic binders in a process called sintering. The teeth on the inexpensive blades often have a lot of air bubbles in the mix due to cheaper manufacturing processes. The more porous the carbide the faster the edge breaks down. 

Carbide teeth kinda resemble concrete with the carbide powder forming the aggregate and the binders the cement. The smaller the grains of carbide used the sharper the edge that can be put on the blade. Lower quality blades often have larger carbide grains. They don't take a very sharp edge to begin with and the larger the grain the less able it is to handle the impact of cutting wood causing the blade to dull faster. 

This is why the less expensive blades often aren't that sharp to begin with and dull faster than high quality blades. Tooling is one of many places where cheap can get expensive.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Oh lord can tooling ever get expensive.


----------



## Calidecks

Justin Huisenga said:


> Aside from the points Warner mentioned there are other differences in the quality of the carbide used in good blades. When they make carbide it starts out as a powder that gets mixed with metallic binders in a process called sintering. The teeth on the inexpensive blades often have a lot of air bubbles in the mix due to cheaper manufacturing processes. The more porous the carbide the faster the edge breaks down.
> 
> Carbide teeth kinda resemble concrete with the carbide powder forming the aggregate and the binders the cement. The smaller the grains of carbide used the sharper the edge that can be put on the blade. Lower quality blades often have larger carbide grains. They don't take a very sharp edge to begin with and the larger the grain the less able it is to handle the impact of cutting wood causing the blade to dull faster.
> 
> This is why the less expensive blades often aren't that sharp to begin with and dull faster than high quality blades. Tooling is one of many places where cheap can get expensive.


I haven't experienced any more wear on my cheap ones then I did festool blades. So far so good. I've built three large decks (one 750s.f.) with one including framing with a ton of blocking where I cut large quantities of 2x8 pt. All no real noticeable dullness. If I get half the life out of them I'm still money up from the Festool blades or the Tenyru for that matter. They're is zero noticeable difference in sharpness. As a matter of fact the Festool blade sucks in comparison. Imo. I have 4 festool blades collecting dust I'll Probably never use them again. Although they will make good demo blades to cut something that may ruin my other blades. 

I'm not opposed to buying the better blades for things that matter more, however it will never be a Festool blade and that goes for my Mafell as well.


----------



## Juan80

WarnerConstInc. said:


> A good blade should last indefinitely. Carbide can be replaced.
> 
> The difference in cost has to do with the blade body, carbide type and the amount of carbide.
> 
> I have several blades that are going on 15 years old.
> 
> 60t blades are 12 bucks to sharpen, 80t are 18.
> 
> Heck, I have my 7 1/4"
> matsush!ta circular saw blades sharpened.



I really like those matsu****a blades,and have them on my skill saw also.


----------



## Spencer

BCConstruction said:


> I doubt they do but they might
> 
> If i had to pick 5 things i love on the kapex it would be.
> 
> 1.Weight
> 2.Dual laser
> 3.Dust collection
> 4.Perfect Up front bevel control
> 5.Material Clamp
> 
> If a saw could do them 5 things well i would take a good look at it.


The weight is really nice compared to the 12" dewalt scms that I used to carry around.

The light that dewalt puts on their tools works good enough for me and never needs calibration. The laser is bad on dark stained wood because you can't see your pencil mark. That's where i really miss the light.

Dust collection. Nothing else gets close. 

Bevel control. I like it also.

Never use the material clamp.


----------



## brhokel606

Spencer said:


> The weight is really nice compared to the 12" dewalt scms that I used to carry around.
> 
> The light that dewalt puts on their tools works good enough for me and never needs calibration. The laser is bad on dark stained wood because you can't see your pencil mark. That's where i really miss the light.
> 
> Dust collection. Nothing else gets close.
> 
> Bevel control. I like it also.
> 
> Never use the material clamp.


The light on the Dewalt is great, that's what I used constantly for knowing where the cut it. It was nice because the shadow was always dead on. I have been having a problem with the lasers obscuring my pencil marks lately, bought a magnetic, small LED last week to shine on Kapex. Sure wish they made that option. The dust collection is nice, has not been getting more than 80% lately with the MIDI, not sure whats up. Checked bag, filter and both are good. 

The weight is definitely nice but blades are dang expensive. What I love is the dead on detents and very accurate tilting. Thats what I couldn't live without. Not worring that the saw will deflect is great to. 

I use the clamp on smaller things, had hand sucked into saw before and will not make that mistake again, got damn lucky I didn't lose a finger or worse. My Dewalt has a clamp and works about the same a the Festools, the only pain is having to move it when making a 45 degree cut. I wouldn't give up the saw even with the hefty price tag, I want precision and it has it.


----------



## overanalyze

As far as precision I have read quite a bit that the Bosch Axial glide is close and has up front controls. But it is missing the laser and good dust collection and it weighs as much as a tank. All big factors to me. It is a stupid amount of money for a saw but once the money shock is over you enjoy using it.


----------



## river rider

BCConstruction said:


> I doubt they do but they might
> 
> If i had to pick 5 things i love on the kapex it would be.
> 
> 1.Weight
> 2.Dual laser
> 3.Dust collection
> 4.Perfect Up front bevel control
> 5.Material Clamp
> 
> If a saw could do them 5 things well i would take a good look at it.


Last few days I found myself wishing I had just went for it when they did the kapex sale this summer. The height lock feature and ability to do dados and rabbets is a thing of beauty. Would have come in super useful. 

Would have pulled the trigger but don't like the internal blade guard system, and I would seriously miss the led light. Light is way, way better than laser to me.

Probably should have bought anyway one and jerry rigged some mods for both issues. If kapex was 12" I would grab one with out a doubt.


----------



## Agility

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



overanalyze said:


> As far as precision I have read quite a bit that the Bosch Axial glide is close and has up front controls. But it is missing the laser and good dust collection and it weighs as much as a tank. All big factors to me. It is a stupid amount of money for a saw but once the money shock is over you enjoy using it.



It weighs just a little more than a tank. But I think the dust collection is actually pretty good when hooked up to my Fein. It's not as good when hooked up to my Midi.

I've never used the Kapex so I can't compare them.

Edit: and like the Kapex you can lock the height for dados and rabbets on the Bosch. It does require a somewhat light touch if you want a truly consistent depth, otherwise it keeps you within 1/32 or so.


----------



## SamM

BCConstruction said:


> Yeah I'm curious of how much more they think they can increase the price before they price their self out of the market. I can't see paying more than $1500 for the kapex when the next best saw can be had for $600.


$2126.20 after tax at lee valley here.

Not planning on getting one.


----------



## LockTalk

SamM said:


> $2126.20 after tax at lee valley here.
> 
> Not planning on getting one.



That's the problem I like my 12" non sliding dewalt with LED. And id have to go through 3 of those saws before it adds up to the cost of the kapex


----------



## Spencer

Agility said:


> Edit: and like the Kapex you can lock the height for dados and rabbets on the Bosch. It does require a somewhat lift touch if you want a truly consistent depth, otherwise it keeps you within 1/32 or so.


That is one of my favorite features. When I've needed that I was sure glad I had it.

I had to kerf the 1x4's on 6 of these arches.


----------



## SamM

Spencer said:


> That is one of my favorite features. When I've needed that I was sure glad I had it.
> 
> I had to kerf the 1x4's on 6 of these arches.


Could that be done with a table saw?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

SamM said:


> Could that be done with a table saw?


Not as safely. I guess if you had a miter gauge on the saw and took off the fence you could technically do it.

I'd chose sliding the material along my saw wings and moving the head of the saw any day though. It would be substantially faster and safer.


----------



## Calidecks

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Not as safely. I guess if you had a miter gauge on the saw and took off the fence you could technically do it.
> 
> I'd chose sliding the material along my saw wings and moving the head of the saw any day though. It would be substantially faster and safer.


It's not too bad with a miter sled.


----------



## Calidecks

That was a poor example
This is a little better


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> It's not too bad with a miter sled.


I guess I was thinking of the saw I have and lack of a sled.

No shop saw for me, just the DeWalt jobsite. So I would definitely cut that on the Kapex.

With a sled it could be done safely on the DeWalt as well, but even with a sled I'd prefer the Kapex.


----------



## Spencer

SamM said:


> Could that be done with a table saw?



Yes but in a production trim environment there isn't time to screw with it.


----------



## SamM

Spencer said:


> Yes but in a production trim environment there isn't time to screw with it.


A quick mitre sled like cali posted with a small block the thickness of the Dado and set the proper distance from the blade as a jig and it would be faster, wouldn't it?

Not arguing with you. I'm nowhere near your skill level, and I've never done production trim. It just seems in my head that a jig would be faster than marking and lining up each cut.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

SamM said:


> A quick mitre sled like cali posted with a small block the thickness of the Dado and set the proper distance from the blade as a jig and it would be faster, wouldn't it?
> 
> Not arguing with you. I'm nowhere near your skill level, and I've never done production trim. It just seems in my head that a jig would be faster than marking and lining up each cut.


I wouldn't mark each cut, I'd make a reference mark on the miter saw fence and slide the last cut to the mark.


----------



## Calidecks

I'd think it would be faster if you had a ton to do. With a dado blade like you said. But for just a few the kapex would be faster I'd think.


----------



## Spencer

SamM said:


> A quick mitre sled like cali posted with a small block the thickness of the Dado and set the proper distance from the blade as a jig and it would be faster, wouldn't it?
> 
> Not arguing with you. I'm nowhere near your skill level, and I've never done production trim. It just seems in my head that a jig would be faster than marking and lining up each cut.



Nothing wrong with using a sled. It's not any safer on this cut. 

There was no marking and lining up. I just aimed for 3/4" or whatever. It was not critical as long as it bent like it was supposed to. The panel mold covered the kerf marks. 

In this case a miter saw is more practical because the 1x4's were 8' long. On my miter saw I have continuous support the whole way. A jobsite table saw has limited side support and I don't have a cross cut sled on site.


----------



## Mort

Wow, I'm glad I don't use my woodworking tools for business. My $35 Delta SCMS makes one long piece of wood into two short ones pretty darn good. 

I like Festool, I recommend Festool, I own Festool, but that saw just can't be twice as good as a Bosch axial glide.


----------



## EricBrancard

Mort said:


> Wow, I'm glad I don't use my woodworking tools for business. My $35 Delta SCMS makes one long piece of wood into two short ones pretty darn good.
> 
> I like Festool, I recommend Festool, I own Festool, but that saw just can't be twice as good as a Bosch axial glide.


It is if you have to carry it every day.


----------



## kixnbux

Oh I'm not faulting festool. I'm glad we at least have a place to easily buy blades, clamps or sand paper


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AustinDB

Sorry to hear Tom in Austin passed away. I stopped into his little shop a few times since moving to Austin. Fast shipping with my purchases.


----------



## BBuild

I guess I'm lucky when it comes to dealers. I have 2 within 5 miles, one being my lumber yard and a woodcraft about 25 minutes away. 

I used to have a dealer even closer but they closed a few years back. I actually looked at that as a blessing because I cleaned them out and was getting brand new festools for under 50% of retail. They told me they were losing money on my deals. Half my collection came from them. 

A few deals I got were kapex blades for $45 each, of1010 for $190, small planer for 225 big planer for 285, mft800 and mft mini $200 each. Clamps, sandpaper, you name it and I got it dirt cheap. They even threw in a free floor mat.


----------



## Roofcheck

I should clarify. I want ot go in to a dealer and see the tools I am interested in- table saw, router table. See the LR 32 in action. Yes, I would like to have better storage with the Systainers. 

Providence is close enough... as is Quincy/ Boston. 

I have been to the woodcraft in Woburn.


----------



## BBuild

Roofcheck said:


> I should clarify. I want ot go in to a dealer and see the tools I am interested in- table saw, router table. See the LR 32 in action. Yes, I would like to have better storage with the Systainers.
> 
> Providence is close enough... as is Quincy/ Boston.
> 
> I have been to the woodcraft in Woburn.


Sounds like Burns tools in Fall River,MA would be a great place to hit. They seem very knowledgeable about the festools they sell. There is also a good selection of stationary and portable machines on the floor. A trip there can turn expensive real fast. They stock stiletto, Tajima, powermatic, PLS, stabila, and tons of cordless brands. They are also nationally known for their sharpening services.

I've been to the Woburn woodcraft and was not impresses at all. The newer store in Walpole is way nicer. They have an enormous festool display and tons of Tanos systainers but I wouldn't imagine their staff being very helpful with an lr32 demo. I may be wrong but it seems like it's all semi retired guys who work there. They probably know a lot about turning pens though.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Can anyone tell me the diameter of the cups (when engaged) on the Gecko? I have a unique situation where I need to lift a panel that has a flat surface of 5-3/4”.

Paul


----------



## tjbnwi

5" unlocked-4-3/4" locked

Width of frame outside to outside is 5-5/8". 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Thanks Tom. We put a 30” x 30” crawlspace access in a tiled floor. My regular suction cup (7” in diameter) crosses the grout lines and won’t grab. :thumbsup:


----------



## Sisyphus

bbuild said:


> ..... They probably know a lot about turning pens though.


lol


----------



## Calidecks

Ok guys I'm sure ya'll know this but I just did a rain/water test on the sustainer and as long as it's sitting flat and horizontally it doesn't get a bit of water in it. I sprayed it good too.


----------



## kixnbux

Good to know! I'm still working through the learning curve on my new Rotex 125, thing is really an entirely different tool that any RO sander I've ever used. A beast


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juan80

Good to know on the water and systainer.
If you came up here in nor cal,you wouldn't need the hose.
I have been curious on that fact though.
Charlie


----------



## Juan80

Californiadecks said:


> Ok guys I'm sure ya'll know this but I just did a rain/water test on the sustainer and as long as it's sitting flat and horizontally it doesn't get a bit of water in it. I sprayed it good too.



Good to know,I have been curious on that.
You wouldn't need the hose up here, Lol
Charlie


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> Good to know! I'm still working through the learning curve on my new Rotex 125, thing is really an entirely different tool that any RO sander I've ever used. A beast
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Soon you'll be running it one handed. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> Soon you'll be running it one handed.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



At the moment I can't imagine that. In RO mode yes but geared is hardcore running 40 stripping lead paint off door casings. Two hands for sure but the removal rate is fantastic. 

Is there a specific paper you recommend when stripping paint?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

You can one hand in rotex mode, over your head off a ladder. Just takes practice. 

I have been using granat paper.


----------



## kixnbux

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You can one hand in rotex mode, over your head off a ladder. Just takes practice.
> 
> I have been using granat paper.



I usually end up sanding something almost every day so hopefully I'll get there soon. I can control it fine until paint gets stuck in one spot on the pad. Then it's a runaway beast as that grabs, til I either wire brush it off or change pads. Love the sander though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> At the moment I can't imagine that. In RO mode yes but geared is hardcore running 40 stripping lead paint off door casings. Two hands for sure but the removal rate is fantastic.
> 
> Is there a specific paper you recommend when stripping paint?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If this feeble old man can run it one handed anyone can. 

Saphir while stripping, then Granat to clean the wood up. The Saphir is very aggressive.

You can go with Granat only but it will plug faster than the Saphir. 

Turn the speed down a little, not may become more manageable.

I use the Rotex in the aggressive mode for raw wood prep prior to stain and finish. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> I usually end up sanding something almost every day so hopefully I'll get there soon. I can control it fine until paint gets stuck in one spot on the pad. Then it's a runaway beast as that grabs, til I either wire brush it off or change pads. Love the sander though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Once the paint plugs that spot on the paper pick it off while its warm and get back to work. If the paint cools flex the paper the paint may come off.

That's why I said to slow the sander down, you're heating and melting the paint.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> Once the paint plugs that spot on the paper pick it off while its warm and get back to work. If the paint cools flex the paper the paint may come off.
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I said to slow the sander down, you're heating and melting the paint.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Perfect. I'll order a box of each saphir and granat and check them out. Going to be easy to sink a ton in sandpaper I can see. I think I have 9 boxes already lol. 

I slowed it down for awhile but it seemed to still load almost as quickly but the pieces came off easier. Still not very long to wear a pad out to a point it's pretty much trash. No biggy there though. The cost of paper is very cheap compared to the time this thing saves for sure 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kixnbux

Ordered 🏻 thanks a lot Tom and Warner


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Order an extra backing pad or two. I keep at least 2 extra in the Systainer. 

You don't want to see the paper I have in stock, at least boxes for each of my sanders. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> Order an extra backing pad or two. I keep at least 2 extra in the Systainer.
> 
> You don't want to see the paper I have in stock, at least boxes for each of my sanders.
> 
> Tom



I ordered a hard one. Not remembering right now what came with the sander... Do they fail that much or are you changing to keep them cool?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> I ordered a hard one. Not remembering right now what came with the sander... Do they fail that much or are you changing to keep them cool?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They do fail under hard use. The H&L just goes away, the Festool H&L is much finer than most. I believe it is finer because of the lighter paper backing on Brilliant.

I have the soft and hard pads, it comes with the soft. You'll have a lot of fun with the hard pad. 

Tom


----------



## Tom Struble

i'd like to see..:sad:


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> They do fail under hard use. The H&L just goes away, the Festool H&L is much finer than most. I believe it is finer because of the lighter paper backing on Brilliant.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the soft and hard pads, it comes with the soft. You'll have a lot of fun with the hard pad.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Ordered some P26 Saphir. Sounded wicked. Just what I need. Lowest I have now is P40 and I screwed up and got Rubin then. But it worked fine for the ETS


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I forget they still have saphir.

I wonder if my dealer has it on the shelf? Bet not.


----------



## tjbnwi

Saphir is a great rip through what ever paper. Don't run it across your finger. Cristal was another paper that would do some damage.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I liked the cristal.


----------



## aptpupil

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I liked the cristal.


You and 2pac.


----------



## StrongTower

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I liked the cristal.



I still have a box of 60 grit of Cristal, I use to sand off the paint and drywall from balconies prior to installing landing treads. Takes it down fast.


----------



## BrooklynBravest

Festool REQ 55, with track.

Used, guy asking $500.

Very temping, is it a good price?


----------



## tjbnwi

BrooklynBravest said:


> Festool REQ 55, with track.
> 
> Used, guy asking $500.
> 
> Very temping, is it a good price?


With the rail?

If so and you are not paying shipping you're saving $140.00.

The build date is on the saw, second line, far right. If you get the date you'll know how much warranty is left. If you get the serial number Festool can tell you if it was reported stolen to them.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Here is one in New York. If he's close you may be able to get the rail.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/classifieds/ts55-44539/

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

I wouldn't pay 500 dollars for a used saw even with a rail. For 140 bucks it won't have someone else's boogers on it. :laughing:


----------



## GregB

I agree, Festool usually holds its value too well to make sense buying used. Sometimes you find a reasonable seller but not often. Some fanboy is waiting for the local sales. On ebay, you are bidding against someone in another country that won't pay import duty on a used tool.
I've used the resale to justify the purchase of a few where I wasn't sure they would get enough use to make sense otherwise. It may be easy to sell stuff you don't use at all but its hard to sell stuff you don't use enough.

Edited to add: If buying used, make sure you are getting everything that came with it originally, that it has the 3 year warranty registered, and that it comes with the T-Lock Systainer. Otherwise start deducting lots. On bidding sites, you will be bidding against others that don't think of those things.


----------



## TaylorMadeAB

This stuff must be highly contagious, because I went from laughing at the prices in my tool store, to deciding which one I want first.
I'm thinking the ct 26 vac would make the most sense for me right now, with the add-on collector by Oneida for when I am using the shop tools. 
Do you guys have any more suggestions on what I should get with it? I do a pretty diverse range of things, from tiling to trim.


----------



## tjbnwi

Track saw with an additional 118" rail. 

Make sure you get the discount for buying the package.

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Ok I think I got issues. To top it off I asked my wife for a toothbrush for cleaning grout joists as other one has gone and that is also Festool green!


----------



## tjbnwi

BrooklynBravest said:


> Festool REQ 55, with track.
> 
> Used, guy asking $500.
> 
> Very temping, is it a good price?


The guy on FOG just dropped his price $25.00.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Does anyone use the cms table that connects to the MFT/3? Considering my next few festool purchases. Seems I'm using the router more and more on the job sites and that looks like a heck of a nice option as the MFT/3 is my next purchase coming up. I'd be going for the one with the sliding table that's $1,350. Any thoughts? Obviously would need an of1400 as well 

Did I mention I love buying tools 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I think the stand alone would be better, just for the fact you can use it by itself or attach it to a mft


----------



## tjbnwi

I have the GE, the stand alone. I use it often and really like it, even with its quirks. I also have the TS 75 insert for it.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> I have the GE, the stand alone. I use it often and really like it, even with its quirks. I also have the TS 75 insert for it.
> 
> Tom



That would definitely be good to add. Finding the inserts seems to be the hard part


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> That would definitely be good to add. Finding the inserts seems to be the hard part
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They were never imported to the North American market.

The CMS router plate is home to one of my 2200's. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Hopefully i can locate one somewhere when that time comes. It'll be a bit though. Planning and working toward a new smaller work trailer that is as festool as possible so that everything will work together and be more compact. Love what I have but I'm always upgrading 🏻


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## J L

I'll add another recommendation for the stand alone table. I've got the table mounted with my of1400 plus I picked up a TS55 insert. The dust collection on the TS insert is awesome. :thumbsup:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Def get the free standing. That way you ain't got to set up a MFT as well as the CMS. Moving that thing around as 2 joined pieces prob ain't no fun either.


----------



## kixnbux

I do have to say I wish I'd gone with a CT26 instead of midi for my first vac. I love the midi but I'm wishing for accessories like the boom arm set which isn't compatible. If I'd realized that I would've done a 26 first. Ah well. Another $650 and then I can get the boom I guess 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rrk

what is the story with these? Not interested in buying them just wondering. They must either be old or from overseas right?

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5427614846.html


----------



## J L

rrk said:


> what is the story with these? Not interested in buying them just wondering. They must either be old or from overseas right?
> 
> http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5427614846.html


Those look old!


----------



## m1911

rrk said:


> what is the story with these? Not interested in buying them just wondering. They must either be old or from overseas right?
> 
> http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5427614846.html


They're old and 120 volt, so not overseas.


----------



## kixnbux

Dang how old would that be! Kinda cool looking though


----------



## GregB

rrk said:


> what is the story with these? Not interested in buying them just wondering. They must either be old or from overseas right?
> 
> http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5427614846.html


Those are around 15 years old. At the point he bought these, there was one Festool dealer in the US, in Camarillo, CA.

The ATF55 is the saw that was before the TS55, which is before the current TS55REQ. There was a HUGE improvement from the ATF55 to the TS55.
The OF1000 is the orginial Mafell copy, further improved by Festool to become the OF1100.
I'm less familiar with the jigsaw but it is about the same age.
The blades are all Leitz blades made for Festool, Festo when those were made. A big problem is that the blades are all different on the newer saws and these didn't have a consistent kerf width. 
He will probably sell this to someone that doesn't know all this and get his price but I wouldn't pay it.
If you have nothing and want this stuff, it could easily be worth $800 or so.


----------



## tjbnwi

Festo became Festool in 2000. The tools pre-date 2000.

Tom


----------



## TaylorMadeAB

I hope this site gets residuals from Festool! On Monday I walked past the Festool display and chuckled at the prices. On Monday night I read 20 pages of this thread. On Tuesday I bought the ct-36. I just bought a used ets-150/3 last week, and now I'm looking at about $5000 more of the Festie!!
I've got a few questions for the experts though
1. Is the sandpaper kit worth it? It's an assorment of 150 pcs of granat and Rubin.
2. Is it easy enough to remove the rail and guide from the MFT kit when you just need a flat surface?
3. I mostly use a laminate trimmer for on site routing (small round overs, bevels, hinge gains, etc) but if I went for the OF-1400 would it be too cumbersome for small work like that? Once in a while I need to put a large bit in for heavy duty work.


----------



## Spencer

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



TaylorMadeAB said:


> 3. I mostly use a laminate trimmer for on site routing (small round overs, bevels, hinge gains, etc) but if I went for the OF-1400 would it be too cumbersome for small work like that? Once in a while I need to put a large bit in for heavy duty work.


A good combo would be a decent name brand palm router and the OF1400. I have two 1400's. I wouldn't be using the 1400 for small stuff.


----------



## rrk

Spencer said:


> A good combo would be a decent name brand palm nailer and the OF1400. I have two 1400's. I wouldn't be using the 1400 for small stuff.


"palm nailer"??????? say what?


----------



## Spencer

rrk said:


> "palm nailer"??????? say what?



My bad. Fixed it.


----------



## kixnbux




----------



## rrk

I got that email also, that type of thing has been around for a long time. And certainly not $1300. My father in law had one, was an aluminum ball with a vac line going through it to a pad, sits a ring with a lever to tighten.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

TaylorMadeAB said:


> I hope this site gets residuals from Festool! On Monday I walked past the Festool display and chuckled at the prices. On Monday night I read 20 pages of this thread. On Tuesday I bought the ct-36. I just bought a used ets-150/3 last week, and now I'm looking at about $5000 more of the Festie!!
> I've got a few questions for the experts though
> 1. Is the sandpaper kit worth it? It's an assorment of 150 pcs of granat and Rubin.
> 2. Is it easy enough to remove the rail and guide from the MFT kit when you just need a flat surface?
> 3. I mostly use a laminate trimmer for on site routing (small round overs, bevels, hinge gains, etc) but if I went for the OF-1400 would it be too cumbersome for small work like that? Once in a while I need to put a large bit in for heavy duty work.


Not sure what type of work you do but for us the sandpaper kit would not be useful. We go through cartons of 180 and 220 grit – but that’s about all.

The rail on the MFT comes off pretty easily. It’s not easy to store (odd shape when off the table), but it does come off.

The OF1400 is a nice unit. It is not a replacement for a palm router. Festool makes the MFK 700 (palm router). Knowing what I know today, I would have bought a Colt (actually 6 or 7 of them) for what I paid for the MFK.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

kixnbux said:


>


Got my email today as well. Might be pre-ordering a couple of them. :thumbsup:


----------



## kixnbux

Looked neat to me too. I looked at it on the uk you tube and thought it could be dang handy. Now it'll be here in a month lol


----------



## TaylorMadeAB

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Not sure what type of work you do but for us the sandpaper kit would not be useful. We go through cartons of 180 and 220 grit – but that’s about all.
> 
> The rail on the MFT comes off pretty easily. It’s not easy to store (odd shape when off the table), but it does come off.
> 
> The OF1400 is a nice unit. It is not a replacement for a palm router. Festool makes the MFK 700 (palm router). Knowing what I know today, I would have bought a Colt (actually 6 or 7 of them) for what I paid for the MFK.


I'm pretty diverse in what I do, so I think I'd be able use most of the grits eventually. It seems like they are quite a bit cheaper than buying by the box.

I don`t have any specific task in mind that I`d use the rail system for, so would you suggest getting a basic MFT table over the one with the railÉ

I have a nice Ridgid palm router that works great actually. I just don`t like the dust.


----------



## tjbnwi

The MFK 700 is my favorite router. I have 2 Colts, nether hold an adjustment. 

Sandpaper, if you use the sander in the shop just get 10 packs then boxes of what you use most. If you use it in the field the Sys is worth it. If you buy the boxes Festool has an indicator to show when you're 1/2 way through the box. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Get the MFT with the rail. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I suggest the basic mft. The fence crap has been off mine since new.


----------



## Spencer

tjbnwi said:


> The MFK 700 is my favorite router. I have 2 Colts, nether hold an adjustment.
> Tom



Same experience here. The PC 1-1/4 hp Palm router isn't trustworthy either.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I didn’t see much use for the MFT rail system either. I figured for a $100 we would just get it. While we don’t use it a lot, we do use it more than I originally thought we would.


----------



## BBuild

The 42" rail that comes with the mft3 is nice for smaller cuts. It's almost worth the extra money just to have the another rail laying around.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

That's the only reason I don't regret getting all the crap with my mft


----------



## CarpenterSFO

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I suggest the basic mft. The fence crap has been off mine since new.


I use the fence crap quite a bit. Perfect 90s and easy repeatable lengths on panels and straight pieces. I might not use it as much if I had Warner's shop with a big cabinet saw with extensions, crosscut sled, etc.

I often cut sheet goods down to useable or close dimensions, then get to exact on the MFT


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I don't use sheet goods.


----------



## JFM constr

I have the 1400 router .Has all the extra items .it goes with me in the truck . it is a good machine but i have other routers that can do the same job . though compare it to a triton -yeah 1400 far stronger machine ,no deflection under load . the 1400 is a solid machine.
Think that sand paper kit could be nice .At this point i have different grits in the box packed in seperate sandwhich bags with label to say what grit . i tossed the plastic inserts that came in the sander boxes to gain space . my sanders travel to jobsights and i want to be able to go up in grit size gradually .seems to leave a better finish.
for me the mft table took some getting used to .the rail set-up really does not get used .just doesn't ,seems like i have to reset it everytime i move it . i use the dogs [after market item] instead for line up and square cuts .though come to think of it i have seen Gary Katz use the table system real effeciently /effectively .


----------



## tjbnwi

I use the cross cut capability of the MFT multiple times a week. All of my MFT-3's have the rail and fence set-up but one. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Ordered me one of these


----------



## brhokel606

kixnbux said:


> Ordered me one of these


I have 2 now and love them! Ordered some extra insert containers and love the setup, hope you like it too.


----------



## kixnbux

brhokel606 said:


> I have 2 now and love them! Ordered some extra insert containers and love the setup, hope you like it too.



They look great!









Right now I have all my little basics squeezed into the Sys MFT. So I'll clip the tool box on top. Once I order a CXS next week I'll move the necessaries into the toolbox and clip it onto the cxs. I have gotten a ton of tiny 30-45 minute job calls lately and it seems perfect for that.


----------



## charimon

So I ran my Midi Hard for 4ish hours last week as a dust extractor and here are my take aways.

1 It was able to handle a 7" grinder with dustless shroud with the 27 mm hose.
I used the New Ermator badged shroud, which I believe is the best for low CFM vacs on the market in the US.

2 The Vacuum ran well, better than expected, but the internal circutry started cutting power after 45min or so and then after every 7-10 min.

3 The filter bags work The average bag collected 30+lbs before losing suction (I stopped using the Midi after I used up my box of bags.

4 Compared to the Ermator S13 ($1600) or the Pulsebac 1050 ($2000) The initial price of this extractor is reasonable $400 but its cost to run as a dust extractor is prohibitive due to bag cost, $7.00 a pop. This grind I collected a total over 1300 lbs of concrete and epoxy dust 

5 I think this vac is a good choice as a small space dust extractor for using 5" and 7" dustless setups. Its size and ability to handle even hard use with out a cyclone gives me confidence for its abilities. 

6 I think it would be possible to run a couple in a parallel into a preseperator 
as a gateway to larger grinders in residential settings but this setup while flexible would be more clumsy than an S26


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Hey Chairman. Are they you the festi plastic bags? so when full you just tie up and tossed?
> Did you have the grinder plugged into the vac?
> I remember calling festi tech before i bought the midi and asking about masonry they said the motor is sealed so there should be no problems except if the tool is plugged in for a long time.
> 
> I've used my midi on several small grinding and cutting into 8" masonry walls for doors / windows headers etc. Polished / flattened a good bit of concrete as well. But usually used the felt cloth bag.
> 
> Now that I've had the AC36 for about year 1 1/2 gets most of the masonry work. I find it works excellent with the 6" hilti grinders and dust boots for either cutting or grinding. We tuck pointed 700sf of interior brick wall with it. At the end of the day just vac'd off you boots and went home. Kept job site very clean. Also had plastic wall as divider and 2/fans 1 in each window cross blowing with a cpl of cheepo hvac filters.
> 
> It's good to see you're not babying festi like most.


nnn


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

charimon said:


> They are the regular bags in the Midi. The plastic bags in the pic are "longo pac" that I run off of larger vacuums.
> 
> The Grinder that I used in this setting is a DW D28499 which will trip 20 amp breakers on its own. and will immediately trip a 20 amp breaker when run on the same circuit as the midi, if it is run through the vac or not.
> 
> I think 2 midi's or maybe even better for travel and transport sake 2 mini's linked with a "Y" to a preseparator (dust deputy) may make an ideal system for this application. One vacuum seems to do an okey job with the dust, but I believe two are necessary in order to reliably capture the the fine solids. Also I think you need to be careful about you wheel choice for cups. The Turbo wheels are designed to propel the dust out and away from the tool and often broadcast it under shrouds, so I do not recommend their use.



My grinding wheels are from hilti and some cheepo from depot. The hilti just eats through everything and dust boot keeps it all in. We installed a granite walk way last fall on 6" concrete pad. I had a spot on he old concrete threas hold going into to the walk way. Pulled out the ac 36 with hilti 6". This is at 730 am on a busy city street grinding away with total clean confidence behind the cones and caution tape. It's impressive how smooth you can do when your set up.


----------



## charimon

CITY DECKS INC said:


> My grinding wheels are from hilti and some cheepo from depot. The hilti just eats through everything and dust boot keeps it all in. We installed a granite walk way last fall on 6" concrete pad. I had a spot on he old concrete threas hold going into to the walk way. Pulled out the ac 36 with hilti 6". This is at 730 am on a busy city street grinding away with total clean confidence behind the cones and caution tape. It's impressive how smooth you can do when your set up.


Are you running a DG150?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

charimon said:


> are you running a dg150?




i have 2 - deg 600. With both types of dust boots 1/ tuck pointing and 2/ for grinding. 
HAVE THEM DEDICATED IN SYS BOXES WITH ALL OF THERE ACCESSORIES FOR THE TASK IN HAND. 


Looked at the dg 150 but do enough and think i would probably get the dewalt for the savings. My local hilti store does give me some really sweet deals with excellent service so it's hard not to go there. But in the end let's get real soem of there stuff is just way out there like festool.


----------



## Juan80

I got a slightly used ro 125.
$300. Good deal and from a reputable person(not stolen).
Charlie


----------



## country_huck

Charimon,

I use my ct vac as a dust extractor while grinding concrete all the time. Actually it's my only option, I bought one of the dust deputy's that fit in the top of the vacuum. It does a great job of collecting the dust. About the time the box is full is about the time I need to shake out the filter. I don't use the bags. 

I find that set up is great for doing kitchens and bathrooms!


----------



## TaylorMadeAB

I've been using my CT-36 (not the AC) like crazy these last two weeks, and it's been great. I notice that when it's been running for longer than about a minute, the vac will "rev down" briefly. Kind of like the suctions gets turned down for 1 second. Any idea what this is?


----------



## charimon

So the midi is perfect for this shroud...
I am doing a shower repair where the lippage is crazy but everything else is sound so we were grinding the walls flat to reset. This is with the S26 hooked up. That is right it sucks a 17#grinder to the wall. with the Midi extraction was great with out the extra stickyness.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

charimon said:


> So the midi is perfect for this shroud...
> 
> I am doing a shower repair where the lippage is crazy but everything else is sound so we were grinding the walls flat to reset. This is with the S26 hooked up. That is right it sucks a 17#grinder to the wall. with the Midi extraction was great with out the extra stickyness.



What's the better shroud? I remember you posting about the one with the white bits on the bottom. I need one for my 7" Makita at some point and was just gonna use the Makita model as it works awesome on my 4".


----------



## charimon

BCConstruction said:


> What's the better shroud? I remember you posting about the one with the white bits on the bottom. I need one for my 7" Makita at some point and was just gonna use the Makita model as it works awesome on my 4".


It is this model http://www.centralvacuumstores.com/...-CWPoJdjmguBt07ofOOOBNekzZWeXlXOBUaAsJK8P8HAQ
which is a rebadge of this


----------



## aptpupil

And what model cup wheel do you use with this?


----------



## charimon

aptpupil said:


> And what model cup wheel do you use with this?


I have been using the 2 row round wheel with 50 grit diamond from Diamond Vantage lately. The ones that look like this.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

charimon said:


> It is this model http://www.centralvacuumstores.com/...-CWPoJdjmguBt07ofOOOBNekzZWeXlXOBUaAsJK8P8HAQ
> 
> which is a rebadge of this
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxKcRlOLBsk



Looks like it works well on smooth floors but how is it on rough floors with chunks stick up? Does it get hung up much?


----------



## charimon

BCConstruction said:


> Looks like it works well on smooth floors but how is it on rough floors with chunks stick up? Does it get hung up much?


Im not sure. I know it is not sutable for destapleing of wood subfloors. I question how effective it will be for thinset removal. and on really rough stuff I do not think so. Ihave several grinders with the Dust Grabber shrouds from CDCLarue and they work in those situations but I think they need a Stiff brush ring to be most effective.

I will use this one on the next thinset removal job. I also think the "Nylon "glides can be beveled to slip over high spots better. Will update in the future.


----------



## charimon

dbl post


----------



## Tom M

Which Festool TS55 blades would be good for beveling a door? The panther blade?
How about hardwood like cherry cabinet fillers? The 48?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I like the 24t? Universal blade for most things.


----------



## Tom M

I use a 28t often but a 24? My spec book is from 2013


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Yeah, it's 28t.


----------



## Calidecks

The 28 is a great all around blade. I use the 48 for thinner material.


----------



## Tom M

Been wondering about the 14t panther but it looks like its been discontinued.


----------



## Calidecks

Tom M said:


> Been wondering about the 14t panther but it looks like its been discontinued.


I think that blade would be best for ripping wet lumber. I believe you can get it still from Tenryu.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> Been wondering about the 14t panther but it looks like its been discontinued.


There is a 12T Panther for the TS55 and 16T and 18T for the TS75.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> Which Festool TS55 blades would be good for beveling a door? The panther blade?
> How about hardwood like cherry cabinet fillers? The 48?


I would grab the 28T for the door and either a 28T or 48T for the filler.

I use the 12T Panther on thicker rips like a butcher block top.

The 48T is my go to for finish grade plywood.


----------



## rrk

Using a hard pad today on a table top, made a big difference to me than the standard pad. Much much better.


----------



## Tom M

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> There is a 12T Panther for the TS55 and 16T and 18T for the TS75.


I know about the 12t but it looked to aggressive. I saw that and figured dimensional lumber. Not that 14t would be a world of difference but they are the only two advertised as "ripping" blades.

I used the standard 48t on fillers and wasnt thrilled. I used the 28 on composite decks and doors but was looking to improve the laboring on door cuts. I dont have enough use for a Ts75


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> I know about the 12t but it looked to aggressive. I saw that and figured dimensional lumber. Not that 14t would be a world of difference but they are the only two advertised as "ripping" blades.
> 
> I used the standard 48t on fillers and wasnt thrilled. I used the 28 on composite decks and doors but was looking to improve the laboring on door cuts. I dont have enough use for a Ts75


I've used the 48T on fillers before. Is it a newer blade/sharp blade or have you had it for a while?

The 12T will rip the solid wood on the edge of a door very well. I like the 28T as a general purpose. I just cross cut the bottom of an old, solid wood door with a brand new 28T and I almost couldn't hear a difference in the load on the motor. Big difference over my old 28T. Guess it's time to send it in for sharpening...


----------



## tjbnwi

The 14 tooth was discontinued because it was 2.6 mm not 2.2 mm.

I have the 12, 28 and 48 tooth. I use the 48 tooth most. I've had no problem ripping thick material with the 48 tooth, that includes 8/4 white oak. 

Make sure the blade is clean and sharp. 

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I was going to suggest sharpening your blades every once and awhile


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Tom M said:


> Been wondering about the 14t panther but it looks like its been discontinued.




amana still makes them. i have few of there blades pretty good. 

http://www.agecuttingtools.com/sawblades/sawblades-festool-machines.html


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

12t 30/buck. cant beat that. i think festi blades are crap. but hey thats just my experience. also use ushlun they are a fraction of the price and will last least 2x's longer then festi before sharpening. amana lasted longer then the oshlun.
and i'm hard on my blades.

http://tools.toolstoday.com/search?w=160mm 20mm


----------



## Tom M

How are you guys maintaining your blades? This conversation made me open up my case and inspect my blades. They are sharp but they get gummed up. Its so tedious cleaning it off. I use a utility knife to scratch of the heavy on each tooth.....:sad: then wire brush, which murders the brush and finally put some gas on a cloth and wipe.

They looked new when I was done but....tedious


----------



## StrongTower

Tom M said:


> How are you guys maintaining your blades? This conversation made me open up my case and inspect my blades. They are sharp but they get gummed up. Its so tedious cleaning it off. I use a utility knife to scratch of the heavy on each tooth.....:sad: then wire brush, which murders the brush and finally put some gas on a cloth and wipe.
> 
> They looked new when I was done but....tedious



Blade and bit cleaner with a toothbrush. Can have a blade clean in 5 min, just dissolves the pitch. 

BOESHIELD BLADE AND BIT 8 OZ. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N9YLWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pmjVwbQVNWNG7


----------



## BBuild

CMT is another good brand of bit and blade cleaner. I also use a toothbrush and if there really bad I'll grab a nylon or brass bristle brush from HF.


----------



## tjbnwi

I use the CMT blade cleaner. 

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> I use the CMT blade cleaner.
> 
> Tom


I was going to say CMT cleaner and the top of the lid of a drywall bucket... but you posted a picture. For like 9 bucks for the cleaner it was well worth it.

As soon as I get my blades back from the sharpener I also spray some glide coat on them. Seems to help.


----------



## Deckhead

Californiadecks said:


> I think that blade would be best for ripping wet lumber. I believe you can get it still from Tenryu.


I was pretty damn impressed with the Tenryu blades. I wasn't expecting much and had to rip a bunch of 10/4 quarter sawn Wenge. It made it through without issue and clean cuts.


----------



## tjbnwi

Deckhead said:


> I was going to say CMT cleaner and the top of the lid of a drywall bucket... but you posted a picture. For like 9 bucks for the cleaner it was well worth it.
> 
> As soon as I get my blades back from the sharpener I also spray some glide coat on them. Seems to help.


I pour the excess back into the bottle. Goes a long way by doing this.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

StrongTower said:


> Blade and bit cleaner with a toothbrush. Can have a blade clean in 5 min, just dissolves the pitch.
> 
> BOESHIELD BLADE AND BIT 8 OZ. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N9YLWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pmjVwbQVNWNG7


I drop in the utility sink at shop spray heavy with simple green and scrub off with those lil hand brushes. the goo that comes off is amazing.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> I use the CMT blade cleaner.
> 
> Tom


i like that... i'll drop in and leave over or night or something.


----------



## Dan_Watson

Thought about it as well. 11 hrs, might as well fly.


----------



## brhokel606

It is 10 hours for me, I'm planning on going though...we should all meet up there too


----------



## kixnbux

Decided screw it. Ordered a cxs tonight too. Centrotec set on the way also  hoping for the PDC this week as well


----------



## BBuild

I'm surprised at how far some of you guys are willing to travel for the connect event. I didn't even bother going when it was at JLC and that's only like a 45 minute drive for me. I figured it would be a congregation of mostly retired desk jockey hobbyists sort of like the FOG.


----------



## kixnbux

It's a tax write off trip to play with tools.... Why not lol


----------



## BBuild

kixnbux said:


> It's a tax write off trip to play with tools.... Why not lol


I guess it is a good reason for a mini vacation. I do kind of regret going the year they had Norm Abram as a guest speaker. 

I'm sure once you guys post up all your free swag I'll be eating my words.


----------



## kixnbux

I would've loved that too. I did watch the 45 minute video of it on you tube though


----------



## john5mt

Any of you guys dropping the coin for the vacuum clamp? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Considering it. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

It's on my not sure list. If a job pops up it will be useful then yes. Really wish they would bring that Systainer vacuum out soon. Few mates in UK have it and they love it.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> It's on my not sure list. If a job pops up it will be useful then yes. Really wish they would bring that Systainer vacuum out soon. Few mates in UK have it and they love it.


I'd buy the systainer vac so fvcking fast...


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> I'd buy the systainer vac so fvcking fast...



It's a perfect small vac. Locked in a stack of Systainers for small jobs would be perfect.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> It's a perfect small vac. Locked in a stack of Systainers for small jobs would be perfect.


I'm just the kind of wanker who will pay an exorbitant price for a shop vac in a systainer.


----------



## kixnbux

Inner10 said:


> I'm just the kind of wanker who will pay an exorbitant price for a shop vac in a systainer.



Me too


----------



## Inner10

When he stuck that thing to the block and drilled the hole I got a semi.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ig9Sx9OFQrs
> 
> When he stuck that thing to the block and drilled the hole I got a semi.



I have that dust shroud thing but always forget I have it when I drill holes.


----------



## Inner10

BCConstruction said:


> I have that dust shroud thing but always forget I have it when I drill holes.


Does it stick to ceilings?


----------



## BBuild

Inner10 said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ig9Sx9OFQrs
> 
> When he stuck that thing to the block and drilled the hole I got a semi.


Bosch makes two sizes of that. The biggest one will fit a 6" coring bit. I always that it would be nice for small mulitmaster cuts in drywall.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Does it stick to ceilings?



Good question. Will test tomorrow. Powers out at job today so ain't on site to test it.


----------



## kixnbux

Just got the Festool Quadrive PDC 18/4 that I won from tool box buzz!!! Thanks Tyler and Festool!


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Thats a sweet package.


----------



## Juan80

I picked up a "baby" domino and the systainer full of dominos.
Now I need to figure out the best way to use it.

I have added a ro 125
Domino 500
Sys light
And a systainer full of tenons in the last month.
Good thing I have been busy.
Charlie


----------



## kixnbux

Finally got yesterday's haul all together. Liking this setup a lot!


----------



## Juan80

Juan80 said:


> I picked up a "baby" domino and the systainer full of dominos.
> Now I need to figure out the best way to use it.
> 
> I have added a ro 125
> Domino 500
> Sys light
> And a systainer full of tenons in the last month.
> Good thing I have been busy.
> Charlie



I'll try a pic 
Tool ****


----------



## kixnbux

Juan80 said:


> I'll try a pic
> Tool ****
> View attachment 275441



Nice! How do you like the syslite? That ones on my maybe list


----------



## J L

kixnbux said:


> Nice! How do you like the syslite? That ones on my maybe list


I've got one and it rocks. If you want a big light to light up an entire room, it's not it. If you want a rechargeable light to light up what you're working on, it's great. For instance, I was just working under the hood of my truck in the dark and it lit everything up nicely. Also, the fact that it accepts their cordless batteries to increase the time between recharges is pretty sweet. 

I've found that there's a whole realm of uses for it between using a flashlight or a big whole room light.


----------



## kixnbux

J L said:


> I've got one and it rocks. If you want a big light to light up an entire room, it's not it. If you want a rechargeable light to light up what you're working on, it's great. For instance, I was just working under the hood of my truck in the dark and it lit everything up nicely. Also, the fact that it accepts their cordless batteries to increase the time between recharges is pretty sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> I've found that there's a whole realm of uses for it between using a flashlight or a big whole room light.



Being I've got all the dewalt 20v LED light options I'm looking for any justifiable reason to part me from my $200 really lol. Besides it saying Festool on it obviously


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Syslite is my most used festool


----------



## Juan80

I like the light,set it down and it stays. Doesn't fall over like other lights.
I think Bob Marino has some on clearance?
Charlie


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Must resist


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

And yes that's a old Systainer it comes in. Who's cray idea that was I will never know.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I am not sure it comes in a systainer now.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

One of the reasons it took so long to get here.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

No systainer for it.


----------



## tjbnwi

The pump does not come in a Systainer. It will fit in a Sys 4, it's a listing thing, due to the continuous duty pump. 

The Classic Systainer has a slightly different interior shape and dimension, they had to use a Classic to get the pod and pieces in it. 

The Vac Sys works really well, I got to play with both generations of the system when I attended a class in Henderson.

I am trying a local dealer since Tom has past away. They were happy to take my order today. I'll get all of the consumables and accessories (for sanders and other stuff) I ordered on Monday, the Vac Sys should arrive to me on March 1st. I used to get the new releases from Tom 3-5 days before the release date, just couldn't post about them until the release date. 

Tom


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

It's def nice system. It's on the books for sure as soon as a project that warrants it comes along. 

I used to get stuff early until Festool found out and threatened the dealership. It pissed some higher ups of over at Festool central that I got them early.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Because the systainer wasn't a fire proof enclosure


----------



## tjbnwi

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Because the systainer wasn't a fire proof enclosure


That's why they could not get a listing for it (UL listed), I should have been clearer in my response.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

BCConstruction said:


> It's def nice system. It's on the books for sure as soon as a project that warrants it comes along.
> 
> I used to get stuff early until Festool found out and threatened the dealership. It pissed some higher ups of over at Festool central that I got them early.


The guys (I know there were 3 of us) who got things early would never mention the item (not even to each other) until the release date. Then we were very carful how we talked about the items on public forums.

Tom


----------



## Juan80

What size rails are you deck peeps using ? Not comparing saws,just want to know what your using to trim the decking.
Thanks in advance 
Charlie


----------



## tjbnwi

country_huck said:


> I guess the 1600 dollar question is the cms worth it.


The fence could be better, I have the pieces here to improve mine. Maybe someday I'll get them installed. 

I like that I can connect the UG wings to it or use an MFT for in/out feed. 

Worth it to me, can't speak for others.

Tom


----------



## gbruzze1

Tom,

I'm just thinking about getting a router table. I have a 1400, which is the only router I carry around with me. I also have a few bosh routers in the garage. Can the 1400 hook up to another store bought router table? I don't have much free time to build a custom set up, so I'd like something that will work out the box. 

What other advantages does the cms have over something like the kreg table or the Bosch tables?


Gary


----------



## tjbnwi

gbruzze1 said:


> Tom,
> 
> I'm just thinking about getting a router table. I have a 1400, which is the only router I carry around with me. I also have a few bosh routers in the garage. Can the 1400 hook up to another store bought router table? I don't have much free time to build a custom set up, so I'd like something that will work out the box.
> 
> What other advantages does the cms have over something like the kreg table or the Bosch tables?
> 
> 
> Gary


Not sure about your first question. Never tried it.

Portability and the sliding table. The sliding table alone makes it worth owning.

I have the TS-75 module also so it doubles as a portable table saw if need be. I one of those guys who uses a table saw less than 10 times a year.

Tom


----------



## KescoNY

gbruzze1 said:


> Tom,
> 
> I'm just thinking about getting a router table. I have a 1400, which is the only router I carry around with me. I also have a few bosh routers in the garage. Can the 1400 hook up to another store bought router table? I don't have much free time to build a custom set up, so I'd like something that will work out the box.
> 
> What other advantages does the cms have over something like the kreg table or the Bosch tables?
> 
> 
> Gary


If you believe in the festool "system" then the cms is great. Portability, dust collection etc etc . I have both cms ge and vl Use it all the time and love it I also have the TS75 and TS55 table saw attachment for it so a lot less i have to carry around. 

Another thing is, while its not in use it makes a great table ($1650 table and its the same hight as my mft, kapex.

The fence isn't great for either router or the saw but for a portable unit it works ok


----------



## tjbnwi

This shows the router plate, but the twin angle heads solve the poor fence set up for the saw. I have the CS-70 fence from Europe, it's a real nice fence.

Tom


----------



## KescoNY

tjbnwi said:


> This shows the router plate, but the twin angle heads solve the poor fence set up for the saw. I have the CS-70 fence from Europe, it's a real nice fence.
> 
> Tom


I tried your method once using my fence off of the MFT 3 while using the TS75 but my biggest issue is the repetitive setting of the fence for the router 

I do enjoy the adjustable offset for the fence tho.


----------



## tjbnwi

KescoNY said:


> I tried your method once using my fence off of the MFT 3 while using the TS75 but my biggest issue is the repetitive setting of the fence for the router
> 
> I do enjoy the adjustable offset for the fence tho.


I'm working on solving the adjustment quirk.

Tom


----------



## Spencer

Dan_Watson said:


> I was absolutely being obnoxious with the cuts, and I was trying to make as much dust as I could with MDF and azek. I wanted to see worst case scenario.


You'll see quickly that there is a very specific way to cut in order for the dust collection to work, basically pulling the blade out, plunging down, and pushing back into the saw. 

It doesn't do nearly as well if you just chop straight down or really tear through stuff fast.


----------



## Dan_Watson

Spencer said:


> You'll see quickly that there is a very specific way to cut in order for the dust collection to work, basically pulling the blade out, plunging down, and pushing back into the saw.
> 
> It doesn't do nearly as well if you just chop straight down or really tear through stuff fast.


It became apparent very quickly. Not always going to be practical but it makes a huge difference. 

I can't believe the cutting capacity. It's one hell of an expensive setup, it isnt complete and it hasn't left the shop yet but it's going to make a huge difference for us.


----------



## Spencer

Dan_Watson said:


> It became apparent very quickly. Not always going to be practical but it makes a huge difference.
> 
> I can't believe the cutting capacity. It's one hell of an expensive setup, it isnt complete and it hasn't left the shop yet but it's going to make a huge difference for us.


Its a nice setup.

I like your stand. I use the dewalt folding stand. It would be handy to be able to wheel the whole works around.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Huge. Indeed. Compact light clean accurate on and on. You'll wind up getting the silver gray Bosch 36m hose from Amazon for about 30bucks and cut to 6ft. Keep it dedicated for kapex. BTW dies your Bosch vac come with 36mil hose or smalker which i think is 27?


----------



## Spencer

Plus one on cutting down the silver Bosch hose from Amazon.


----------



## GregB

I have several of the Bosch VAC005 hose mentioned and use them for hooking up my Fein Vacs to Festools. 
However, the Ridgid Professional hose: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-ft-Pro-Grade-Universal-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Hose-Kit-VT2570/100375877
is easier to shorten and goes OVER the end on the Kapex so restricts flow even less. One of the end that screw directly on the hose fits over the Kapex port directly. If you cut the 10' hose in half you have a free second hose in case the first one gets damaged because the hose is tough enough you can't wear it out. Far tougher than the Bosch VAC005.

HD has the best price on this, $37 vs $57 from Amazon, etc.


----------



## Spencer

I forgot that hose came with the smaller end. I swapped it out for one that slides over. I think it collects better.


----------



## GregB

Spenser,

That makes sense. The Festool 36mm did better than the 27mm. I took a Bosch VAC005 and put a Festool 36mm tool end that gave me the same dust extraction without the cost. Next step was to shorten the hose, which helped again. 

When I bought a personal Kapex, I figured out that the Ridgid hose did better at lower cost. Festool fanatics would probably have a fit about the bright orange color.

Here's the duplicated setup on my personal Kapex:


----------



## Dan_Watson

GregB said:


> Spenser,
> 
> That makes sense. The Festool 36mm did better than the 27mm. I took a Bosch VAC005 and put a Festool 36mm tool end that gave me the same dust extraction without the cost. Next step was to shorten the hose, which helped again.
> 
> When I bought a personal Kapex, I figured out that the Ridgid hose did better at lower cost. Festool fanatics would probably have a fit about the bright orange color.
> 
> Here's the duplicated setup on my personal Kapex:


That is almost exactly what I ended up doing this morning.


----------



## Tylerwalker32

Spencer said:


> Plus one on cutting down the silver Bosch hose from Amazon.



You can use the orange rigid hoses also. Cut one down for my saw.


----------



## Dan_Watson

The hose slides right over the dust port. 










We had a damaged 27? mm hose, so I canalized it. The stock Rigid end, Bosch VAC004 2-1/2 Inch Hose to 35mm Dust Hose Port Adapter, into the locking Bosch end. 










And the vac fits inside the stand as planned.

It is a wonderful thing.


----------



## Mort

GregB said:


> When I bought a personal Kapex, I figured out that the Ridgid hose did better at lower cost. Festool fanatics would probably have a fit about the bright orange color.
> 
> :



I like to point out that I use a $20 Craftsman vac with my Domino. Drives 'em crazy


----------



## charimon

use this hose.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Poolmaster-1-1-2-in-x-40-ft-In-Ground-Vacuum-Hose-33440/100615496


----------



## m1911

charimon said:


> use this hose.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Poolmaster-1-1-2-in-x-40-ft-In-Ground-Vacuum-Hose-33440/100615496


It's not too stiff?:blink:


----------



## gbruzze1

m1911 said:


> It's not too stiff?:blink:



That's what she said


Gary


----------



## GregB

m1911 said:


> It's not too stiff?:blink:


It is and is pretty marginal compared to the Ridgid. It also has the wrong size on the vac end for almost everything. I tried one from my pool briefly when I was playing around.


----------



## GregB

Mort said:


> I like to point out that I use a $20 Craftsman vac with my Domino. Drives 'em crazy


I'm sure it works fine.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Got the ridged set up / integrated in bench at shop for k is set up I don't have do 1mote thing. Again great value.


----------



## kixnbux

For sanding cabinets and getting in the grooves, does anyone have experience with the LS 130? I'm planning to order one tonight if so. Thanks guys!


----------



## Dan_Watson

kixnbux said:


> For sanding cabinets and getting in the grooves, does anyone have experience with the LS 130? I'm planning to order one tonight if so. Thanks guys!


It has been sitting on a wishlist on Amazon for months. Just haven't been able to pull the trigger. Every time we have a project we need it for the scope changes and it's no longer needed.


----------



## kixnbux

Dan_Watson said:


> It has been sitting on a wishlist on Amazon for months. Just haven't been able to pull the trigger. Every time we have a project we need it for the scope changes and it's no longer needed.



That's the exact darn thing I've done. It's been sitting in the cart for months. And every few weeks I'm working and go man I could use that thing right now. But I make it through over and over lol


----------



## kixnbux

This is what the cabinets look like. Lot of detail sanding


----------



## tjbnwi

With the LS being a linear sander, you have to be carful not to go cross grain. Pick it up at the end of run, move it over, start again.

The pads do deteriorate over time. They last about 3 years. 

To shape the pad, place 150-180 grit paper upside-down on the profile, place the sanders pad on the paper, turn on the sander, carefully sand the profile into the pad. 

I think you'll have to do those arches by hand.

Tom


----------



## Dan_Watson

I have always thought of it for railings and trim. 

On those doors I would think it would do the perimeter and two vertical legs of the panel to frame. Arches by hand, flats with the Rotex.


----------



## kixnbux

Loving the Rotex on this job for sure


----------



## tjbnwi

What is the goal with those cabinets? Paint, colored lacquer, stain and top coat?

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Get 4 Clamping Elements, they will make your life easier......or wait until March 1st and pick up the Vac Sys:thumbs:

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



tjbnwi said:


> What is the goal with those cabinets? Paint, colored lacquer, stain and top coat?
> 
> Tom



Originally they thought re stain lighter but have changed their minds to a white paint. Just a very dark kitchen. I'm mainly looking for anything that'll speed up the hand sanding parts. 

Kind of assumed nothing but elbow grease is going to do the arches though


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> Get 4 Clamping Elements, they will make your life easier......or wait until March 1st and pick up the Vac Sys:thumbs:
> 
> Tom



I'm almost thinking I could justify the vac Sys given the amount of kitchens I've been redoing lately. Would be really handy. Trying to budget in the cms too though


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> Originally they thought re stain lighter but have changed their minds to a white paint. Just a very dark kitchen. I'm mainly looking for anything that'll speed up the hand sanding parts.
> 
> Kind of assumed nothing but elbow grease is going to do the arches though


With them going to paint you do not have to strip completely. Rough up finish, pigmentented shellac, sand, Wall and Wood primer, sand, reprime sand, paint.

Look at Liquid Sandpaper also.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> With them going to paint you do not have to strip completely. Rough up finish, pigmentented shellac, sand, Wall and Wood primer, sand, reprime sand, paint.
> 
> Look at Liquid Sandpaper also.
> 
> Tom



Ok I will. I get carried away enjoying the Rotex and it only takes a few minutes to fully strip a door. I replaced the pad with the hard pad today. Was a lot easier to change than I had heard it would be! Love the hard pad


----------



## rrk

try a mop sanding head


----------



## Builders Inc.

Good news. Bought the of1400 and went to town on the 280 linear ft of panel pilot bit runs through the 3/4" material. I made it 200' after 20 runs and it shut off. I was thinking dang it I knew I should have bought a of2200. So I packed up and went home. Did some work on the computer and ate dinner. Then I went to the truck to check on my new router. I plugged it up and hoped for the best. It runs fine. Who Hoo! The overload feature is a life saver. I am thoroughly impressed with their tools. Here begins a life long affair. 

Break out the c.c. And get to collecting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dan_Watson

Did you explain what your doing? What bit? Can you make two passes?


----------



## kixnbux

Prepare for the onslaught lol. I started last September with a TS and vac. Now have a bunch of stuff lol. Just ordered some more too. It's addictive!


----------



## m1911

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Got the ridged set up / integrated in bench at shop for k is set up I don't have do 1mote thing. Again great value.


Stop calling it Ridged every time.:laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

Don't shut the router off between passes. The air flow will help cool the motor.

Tom


----------



## Builders Inc.

Dan_Watson said:


> Did you explain what your doing? What bit? Can you make two passes?



We specialize in building risk category 1 accessory structures. Pool screen room, sun rooms, carports, pole barns, detached matching garages and our staple is residential storage buildings. So we use roof truss kits for the roofs. Most are small 30' and under. Largest we ever used were 8/12 on a 24' span of a 6/12 on a 30' span. Most are smaller. We bought the old truss plant equipment from the friend we were buying trusses from. He was 74 and ready to retire. We built a 2000sq ft pole barn behind our 7k sq. ft. shop. We spent near 20k setting up and moving all this equipment at our shop. 

His manufacturing table didn't make it in one piece so I have built a new one. It's 10' x 40' long with built in dados 1.5" x 1.5" x10' long. Decked with 3/4" plywood and uni-trac later inside the inlays. We have stops that slide back and forth on the uni-trac that act as bump stops to ensure the top chords and bottom chords are the same slope and height. I had to route 14 rows at 10' long to expose the inlays. Go over the edges with an 1/8" round over and lay the track.









It's gonna work well. And we can build and sell house trusses on the side too delivered but not lifted. No crane services offered. I've used a Freud 1/4" shank 3/8" panel pilot bit to cut the ply out. Have 30' left to do tomorrow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Builders Inc.

I'll posts time lapse video when we get up and running next week to show how it all works. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Boone32

Looking for some advice. 

Going to purchase a TS this week. Debating between the TS 55 REQ and the TS 75. Price is not the issue in the debate, I'm just curious what the obvious benifit or negative would be to one vs. the other? 

I like the extra cut depth of the TS 75 even if that would rarely come into play for me.

Any opinions that might help me would be appreciated.


----------



## tjbnwi

Boone32 said:


> Looking for some advice.
> 
> Going to purchase a TS this week. Debating between the TS 55 REQ and the TS 75. Price is not the issue in the debate, I'm just curious what the obvious benifit or negative would be to one vs. the other?
> 
> I like the extra cut depth of the TS 75 even if that would rarely come into play for me.
> 
> Any opinions that might help me would be appreciated.


Describe your primary use.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Boone32 said:


> Looking for some advice.
> 
> Going to purchase a TS this week. Debating between the TS 55 REQ and the TS 75. Price is not the issue in the debate, I'm just curious what the obvious benifit or negative would be to one vs. the other?
> 
> I like the extra cut depth of the TS 75 even if that would rarely come into play for me.
> 
> Any opinions that might help me would be appreciated.



I had the same quandary. I went with TS 55REQ because it's just a lighter smaller saw all around. I mostly cut sheet goods with an occasional door trimming with it. Works excellent! Haven't needed the 75s depth yet. YMMV

Tom is the one to know a lot about it though.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Boone32 said:


> Looking for some advice.
> 
> Going to purchase a TS this week. Debating between the TS 55 REQ and the TS 75. Price is not the issue in the debate, I'm just curious what the obvious benifit or negative would be to one vs. the other?
> 
> I like the extra cut depth of the TS 75 even if that would rarely come into play for me.
> 
> Any opinions that might help me would be appreciated.


TS 55 (without a doubt)

I use my 75 only about 3% of the time.

The other 97% of the time....I'm swinging that little 55 around like a conductors baton.


----------



## Boone32

tjbnwi said:


> Describe your primary use.
> 
> Tom


Basically what kixnbux stated. Sheet goods and doors and flooring.


----------



## tjbnwi

Boone32 said:


> Basically what kixnbux stated. Sheet goods and doors and flooring.


TS-55R or TSC-55.

Tom


----------



## river rider

I occasionally use my TS 55 on an existing vertical surface. Sometimes I'm holding one side of the track in place with one hand & running the saw with the other, when there is nothing to clamp or screw to. 55 is manageable for this. I think the 75 is probably too heavy & awkward, but I don't own a 75, so I really don't know. I don't do this a lot, but it has been just the ticket a few times. It's been worth it's cost just for those cuts alone.

Real happy with the 55.


----------



## Builders Inc.

Had to go pick up some quick drive screws and was talking with my local tool supplier and they are becoming festool dealers. Yup yup. Here we go. This is gonna be expensive. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juan80

I have a ts75 and love it.
I usually use a skill 7-1/4" wormdrive saw so it's not a big deal.

But, I can see a 55 in my future. Feels like a toy.
I think it all depends on usage,timber vrs plywood.
Charlie


----------



## Inner10

Is the systainer vacuum coming to the US anytime soon?


----------



## brhokel606

Inner10 said:


> Is the systainer vacuum coming to the US anytime soon?


I hope so, been hearing yes on FOG but nothing confirmed.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Inner10 said:


> Is the systainer vacuum coming to the US anytime soon?



It is just prob next year.


----------



## Juan80

I was vacuuming up sheet rock dust yesterday, I shut the vacuum off then tried to restart and it wouldn't start.

After waiting a bit it fired back up work just fine.
Could that mean the bag is full or is it the electronic shutting the vacuum down?
The bag is about half full.
Thanks
Charlie


----------



## kixnbux

Picked up the quick clamps today


----------



## aaron_a

overanalyze said:


> Their annual price increase is getting ridiculous. I like the tools I have but I am really glad I bought them awhile ago. They aren't even adding features or upgrades. ..just raising prices cause.



Yeah, I'm starting to get pretty salty about it too. I can't think of any other company that does that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> Their annual price increase is getting ridiculous. I like the tools I have but I am really glad I bought them awhile ago. They aren't even adding features or upgrades. ..just raising prices cause.


I guess, they just spent 15 million adding onto their facility in Lebanon, IN. They are constantly in R & D on new tools, they are constantly having new tools tested, everything is UL listed and they pay their employees well. 

I guess they could sell out to TTi and figure a way out to make stuff to a cheaper price point. 

No other tool you can easily buy will hold its resale value like Festool.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

aaron_a said:


> Yeah, I'm starting to get pretty salty about it too. I can't think of any other company that does that.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Everyone on here? What's the difference between everyone here telling everyone to keep raising your prices? You raise them until you hit a plateau and go from there. 

I think they are smart enough to know when is when.

I think the ts55 has went up a bit over a 100 bucks since I bought my first one almost 9 years ago. Big deal.


----------



## overanalyze

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I guess, they just spent 15 million adding onto their facility in Lebanon, IN. They are constantly in R & D on new tools, they are constantly having new tools tested, everything is UL listed and they pay their employees well.
> 
> I guess they could sell out to TTi and figure a way out to make stuff to a cheaper price point.
> 
> No other tool you can easily buy will hold its resale value like Festool.


Valid points...but other tool companies continue to do R & D, UL list items, etc. as well. Don't get me wrong, I think they are a great company, but you just don't see their competitors raising prices annually. Maybe this is their way of having a "sale". Buy now before the price hike...


----------



## overanalyze

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Everyone on here? What's the difference between everyone here telling everyone to keep raising your prices? You raise them until you hit a plateau and go from there.
> 
> I think they are smart enough to know when is when.
> 
> I think the ts55 has went up a bit over a 100 bucks since I bought my first one almost 9 years ago. Big deal.


Maybe since they advertise it it seems worse than it is?...


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Valid points...but other tool companies continue to do R & D, UL list items, etc. as well. Don't get me wrong, I think they are a great company, but you just don't see their competitors raising prices annually. Maybe this is their way of having a "sale". Buy now before the price hike...


My guess (and it is only a guess) is that all the tool companies raise their prices annually. Festool just does it at one time and announces it. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Maybe since they advertise it it seems worse than it is?...


Damn you....

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

overanalyze said:


> Valid points...but other tool companies continue to do R & D, UL list items, etc. as well. Don't get me wrong, I think they are a great company, but you just don't see their competitors raising prices annually. Maybe this is their way of having a "sale". Buy now before the price hike...


I dont really have a problem with it. They sell certain tools to a certain demographic. That demographic will or will not pay the price. When the sales decrease they'll lower or keep prices where they are.

I do the same with my business because I am in a select demographic. I'd imagine all of us would.

Some of us sell the most for the least (think Ryobi) some of us do most bang for our buck (think Dewalt/Milwaukee etc). Some of us sell to few at very high rates with exceptional quality (Festool/Mafell/Lamello/Hilti (hilti kind of)). Its just part of being the best, you should own the best and sell it accordingly.

I actually use them as a guage... If they increase prices, I follow suit. I figure they know more about markets than me.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

overanalyze said:


> Valid points...but other tool companies continue to do R & D, UL list items, etc. as well. Don't get me wrong, I think they are a great company, but you just don't see their competitors raising prices annually. Maybe this is their way of having a "sale". Buy now before the price hike...


You also don't see those competitors employees actually making good money working for them. Those Chinese factory workers don't make what the factory workers in Germany make. It trickles all the way down from the top and all the way back up. 

If you take the quality tools built in the 40s and 50s and what they cost now after inflation, festool is a deal compared. 

My one 50's PC belt sander was over 200 bucks back then. That would cost a fortune to make and buy today.


----------



## aaron_a

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I guess, they just spent 15 million adding onto their facility in Lebanon, IN. They are constantly in R & D on new tools, they are constantly having new tools tested, everything is UL listed and they pay their employees well.
> 
> I guess they could sell out to TTi and figure a way out to make stuff to a cheaper price point.
> 
> No other tool you can easily buy will hold its resale value like Festool.


Well, when you say it like that....

Maybe its like what overanalyze said. Announcing it might just make it sting a bit...


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

aaron_a said:


> Well, when you say it like that....
> 
> Maybe its like what overanalyze said. Announcing it might just make it sting a bit...


People would complain if they did or didn't announce it. 

Never going to make everyone happy all the time.


----------



## BBuild

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

Just for the hell of it I pulled out a catalog from 2009 to do some price comparisons. Kapex was $1300 now 1475. Ts55 was 500 now 660. Ct midi was 395 now 550. 

It makes me real glad I finished buying everything I needed a few years ago. If I were to just discover festool now the prices would turn me away. The kapex is getting so expensive I don't even like bringing it on site anymore. It would cost $1567 to replace after tax which is a little crazy considering the nearest competitor is the Bosch axial glide at $550.


----------



## SamM

BBuild said:


> Just for the hell of it I pulled out a catalog from 2009 to do some price comparisons. Kapex was $1300 now 1475. Ts55 was 500 now 640. Ct midi was 395 now 550.
> 
> It makes me real glad I finished buying everything I needed a few years ago. If I were to just discover festool now the prices would turn me away. The kapex is getting so expensive I don't even like bringing it on site anymore. It would cost $1567 to replace after tax which is a little crazy considering the nearest competitor is the Bosch axial glide at $550.


Try it in Canada. $2200.


----------



## overanalyze

Well our Kapex blew the smoke out of the motor.  Thankfully we are still in the warranty period. Festool sent out the box and pre-paid label for us to send it in. Waiting to hear back what failed. 

I am on two sides on this one...first the service is top notch from them! Paying for shipping both ways plus shipping a box to me first plus repairing the tool...that is the way service should be. Well done Festool!

Now the other side is why are their very expensive saws failing under 3 years? The cases of motor/armature failures are documented on FOG all over. I have a Dewalt that is 20 years old that has been used and abused that is still going strong. I love everything about the saw...but will it fail again in 3 years?? 

Also my attitude towards this issue is positive because I am not footing the bill...if it was just out of warranty I would not be so happy. It still sucks because we are in the middle if trimming out a new house and starting a kitchen on Monday so I need that saw back. Already tired of dust everwhere from our Dewalt 780!


----------



## Dan_Watson

Tools fail. I have a box of bosch **** bought at the big box instead of somewhere else and it wasn't even worth dealing with. We just but replacements that are not the lightweight version. Buying the kapex at almost 3 times the cost of the next saw was tough but the warranty, quality and dust extraction are impossible to beat. 

I won't buy a sander that isn't Festool.


----------



## kixnbux

Man I want a Kapex bad but this crap keeps making me move it down my list of festools I'm collecting


----------



## overanalyze

Dan_Watson said:


> Tools fail. I have a box of bosch **** bought at the big box instead of somewhere else and it wasn't even worth dealing with. We just but replacements that are not the lightweight version. Buying the kapex at almost 3 times the cost of the next saw was tough but the warranty, quality and dust extraction are impossible to beat.
> 
> I won't buy a sander that isn't Festool.


Yes I agree that tools fail. My question is should a tool that costs what the Kapex does cost fail in such a short time? Not unhappy with my Festools. Wouldn't trade them for another brand. However if the Kapex fails again on me in 3 years I will have a hard decision to make. 

I really hesitated even bringing this up on here. I am not a disgruntled owner or anti-Festool. I also love their sanders and vacuums. It is more a point of discussion. We never ran ours on a generator or long extension cords. It could just be a fluke. I think Darcy has had his much longer than a lot of people and hasn't had any issues. Maybe because we hear of the cases of failures we think there is a lot but in reality it is a very small amount compared to the number of tools out there. I guarantee that there are motor failures from other brands but we just don't hear about them. 

It is an ongoing topic on the FOG and there really hasn't been any feedback from Festool on the subject. Maybe because they don't feel the need to reply...maybe because there is a bigger problem with them. It does seem to be isolated to the 110v models.


----------



## Dan_Watson

The bad is always louder than the good. I heard about the failures and know it's a risk. We have a couple other saws that are 3-8 years old and at the end of their life. They probably should have been put down awhile ago but we weren't happy with the options for replacements and not sure of the kapex. Time will tell.


----------



## Inner10

All tools fail but the Kapex is a bit of a turkey.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I’ll be one to be loud about the good. I’ve owed my Kapex for about 6 years now. It has not had one problem (new out of the box).

I owed a second used one for about 4 years (bought the Rockler working display for $700) without any problems. I sold the second one to a contractor we work with quite a bit (about 9 months ago) and, as of Thursday, it is still running without any issues (they love it).

No complaints on this end… none what so ever. If it’s a turkey… can I have some more?


----------



## Dan_Watson

Are most of the problems found immediately, out of the box?


----------



## Spencer

overanalyze said:


> Yes I agree that tools fail. My question is should a tool that costs what the Kapex does cost fail in such a short time? Not unhappy with my Festools. Wouldn't trade them for another brand. However if the Kapex fails again on me in 3 years I will have a hard decision to make.
> 
> I really hesitated even bringing this up on here. I am not a disgruntled owner or anti-Festool. I also love their sanders and vacuums. It is more a point of discussion. We never ran ours on a generator or long extension cords. It could just be a fluke. I think Darcy has had his much longer than a lot of people and hasn't had any issues. Maybe because we hear of the cases of failures we think there is a lot but in reality it is a very small amount compared to the number of tools out there. I guarantee that there are motor failures from other brands but we just don't hear about them.
> 
> It is an ongoing topic on the FOG and there really hasn't been any feedback from Festool on the subject. Maybe because they don't feel the need to reply...maybe because there is a bigger problem with them. It does seem to be isolated to the 110v models.


I am curious to see how mine holds up. I'm with you, I expect a tool that expensive to last...at the same time when you use tools hard they do wear out. 

Talk to trim subs, they wear out their dewalt 870's also.

The thing that gets me addicted is the dust collection. I can't stand using my dewalt that I have in my shop anymore. I want to put a kapex in the shop too...


----------



## overanalyze

That's the thing...I baby my Kapex. It has the sharpest blades and cuts finish materials. I don't use it for wet PT lumber or cutting metal. That's what my old Dewalts are used for now.


----------



## brhokel606

overanalyze said:


> That's the thing...I baby my Kapex. It has the sharpest blades and cuts finish materials. I don't use it for wet PT lumber or cutting metal. That's what my old Dewalts are used for now.


I am the exact same way! Lol


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

brhokel606 said:


> I am the exact same way! Lol



I'm not... It's the only saw I use.

Let's hope it doesn't die on me.


----------



## tjbnwi

I use my Kapex for anything and everything, I've cut fiber cement siding on a Kapex. If it breaks they can blame me. 

It's a tool use it. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

I have always been that way with my miter saws. I had a good one and a beater. The good one was kept tuned and sharp. As I upgraded saws the old good one became the new beater.


----------



## Calidecks

If I had it to do all over again I would of gone a different route. Probably a 10" axial glide.


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> If I had it to do all over again I would of gone a different route. Probably a 10" axial glide.


I have played with that one some but the lack of the lasers and the horrible dust collection is a deal breaker for me now that I am used to them. Actually have heard the little 20v Dewalt is a nice little saw. You know with that small of a blade deflection shouldn't be an issue...lol! I still think the Kapex is the best I have used and I am hoping the repair gives me plenty more years with it.


----------



## kixnbux

overanalyze said:


> I have played with that one some but the lack of the lasers and the horrible dust collection is a deal breaker for me now that I am used to them. Actually have heard the little 20v Dewalt is a nice little saw. You know with that small of a blade deflection shouldn't be an issue...lol! I still think the Kapex is the best I have used and I am hoping the repair gives me plenty more years with it.



I love my 20v miter. I use it all the time.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I beat my k. Will cut anything I can fit. Change the blade for task in hand and have at it. Just sent my back last week. Still working and cutting perfect but the dust boot housing broke and lost the shroud also laser is caked up with a ton of ipe dust. A CPL cracks in housing but don't really care about that. Alum to steel to paralam to old reclaimed timbers to miles of cedar ipe plastics anything and everything.


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> I have played with that one some but the lack of the lasers and the horrible dust collection is a deal breaker for me now that I am used to them. Actually have heard the little 20v Dewalt is a nice little saw. You know with that small of a blade deflection shouldn't be an issue...lol! I still think the Kapex is the best I have used and I am hoping the repair gives me plenty more years with it.


The dust shroud clogs up with composite shavings anyway and is worse then the others without dust collection for what I do. I also only use it outside and you can't see the lasers anyway. So in hindsight I would probably go a different route. The reason I say probably is because I haven't tried the Bosch vacuum with it yet. The extra power may help with the extraction. I only need it around pools.


----------



## JFM constr

overanalyze said:


> Well our Kapex blew the smoke out of the motor.  Thankfully we are still in the warranty period. Festool sent out the box and pre-paid label for us to send it in. Waiting to hear back what failed.
> 
> I am on two sides on this one...first the service is top notch from them! Paying for shipping both ways plus shipping a box to me first plus repairing the tool...that is the way service should be. Well done Festool!
> 
> Now the other side is why are their very expensive saws failing under 3 years? The cases of motor/armature failures are documented on FOG all over. I have a Dewalt that is 20 years old that has been used and abused that is still going strong. I love everything about the saw...but will it fail again in 3 years??
> 
> Also my attitude towards this issue is positive because I am not footing the bill...if it was just out of warranty I would not be so happy. It still sucks because we are in the middle if trimming out a new house and starting a kitchen on Monday so I need that saw back. Already tired of dust everwhere from our Dewalt 780!


good points .alot of money but it is a great saw that can really make the difference .doing trim it can greatly ease the job and make things faster .
also though -the saw has a lot of electronics ,i am wondering if it is far more sensitive to being starved for juice .could of been hooked up to a weak circuit on a house or used with a light weight cord .


----------



## Juan80

Change of subject
I need a drill to augment my 10 year old hitachi impact.
Torn between the Festool pdc and the t-18
Got to hold the pdc today and was surprised at the weight, after hearing that it was a "beast", didn't seem that heavy to me.
What's the thinking ? Oh and I held the sds drill also,and I will get that for sure. Same battery platform 
Charlie


----------



## StrongTower

JFM constr said:


> good points .alot of money but it is a great saw that can really make the difference .doing trim it can greatly ease the job and make things faster .
> 
> also though -the saw has a lot of electronics ,i am wondering if it is far more sensitive to being starved for juice .could of been hooked up to a weak circuit on a house or used with a light weight cord .



I find that if I don't run the saw off the vac, I get better dust collection and better performance out of the saw. I may just be imagining it, but it does seem better. My Kapex smoked in the first 5 months of ownership, after that I've run on seperate circuits. Almost a year later and it hasn't skipped a beat. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kixnbux

Juan80 said:


> Change of subject
> I need a drill to augment my 10 year old hitachi impact.
> Torn between the Festool pdc and the t-18
> Got to hold the pdc today and was surprised at the weight, after hearing that it was a "beast", didn't seem that heavy to me.
> What's the thinking ? Oh and I held the sds drill also,and I will get that for sure. Same battery platform
> Charlie



I've had the PDC a few weeks. Used to to install a laundry vent through a stone wall and to run some conduit through the same wall. 1" masonry bit through 12" wall. It did the job. Very nice drill.


----------



## tjbnwi

Juan,

I have not held or used the PDC. I know a few others besides kix (sorry, I don't know your name) have the drill, hopefully they'll let you know what their impressions are.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

It's


Californiadecks said:


> The dust shroud clogs up with composite shavings anyway and is worse then the others without dust collection for what I do. I also only use it outside and you can't see the lasers anyway. So in hindsight I would probably go a different route. The reason I say probably is because I haven't tried the Bosch vacuum with it yet. The extra power may help with the extraction. I only need it around pools.


Again the only reason we bought the k was because it's lightweight accurate and DC is great compared to others. It is hiper sensitive to dull blade's power etc. Very high maintenance. In fact probably too much. And then come the blades. 
I don't think I would spend the Money especially as high as it's gotten. It's friggin 1500/buck's. 
If I was trimmer I would probably have an 8" slider or 12" non slidder and 12' Dewalt 780 slider hooked on vac is pretty good and or a non slider. After looking at have 3 saw forget bid still by the k. That hassle requires too much band width. So fortunately / Unfortunately id probably buy another k. Even with busted up missing dust boot it still collects better then others.


Oh and yes there service is ridiculous. Just ridiculous.


----------



## Spencer

StrongTower said:


> I find that if I don't run the saw off the vac, I get better dust collection and better performance out of the saw. I may just be imagining it, but it does seem better. My Kapex smoked in the first 5 months of ownership, after that I've run on seperate circuits. Almost a year later and it hasn't skipped a beat.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Remind me again what you use to make the saw work without being plugged into the vac?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Dan_Watson said:


> Are most of the problems found immediately, out of the box?


You got 3yrs. .... 
I remember when I got mine is smelled like it was burning up and kept bogging down. I went through 3 of them to realize what a chitty blade it came with and the SAW shutdown with it getting dull. I don't care for there high priced blade's. Been using oshlum and old 10" bored to fit. Again service it absolutely amazing 5star all the way and bobmarino festi dealer and Amazon is just a day away.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

kixnbux said:


> I love my 20v miter. I use it all the time.


Spence do you have a k?
Do you use the remote DC switch with 20v d? Or to hell with it and let it fly.


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> Juan,
> 
> I have not held or used the PDC. I know a few others besides kix (sorry, I don't know your name) have the drill, hopefully they'll let you know what their impressions are.
> 
> Tom



Josef


----------



## StrongTower

Spencer, I just use the iVac control box with the two pig tails hanging out of it










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lettusbee

Spencer said:


> Remind me again what you use to make the saw work without being plugged into the vac?


Does the kapex only work when plugged into a shop vac, er I mean dust collector?


----------



## overanalyze

Lettusbee said:


> Does the kapex only work when plugged into a shop vac, er I mean dust collector?


No it works with or without. The Festool vacs as well as a few others have a tool triggered outlet in them to be able to turn the vac on when you start the miter saw or any other tool you use the vac with.


----------



## overanalyze

Festool did just say on FOG that they are having a meeting regarding the Kapex and the on going lifespan thread on FOG. They will release a statement tomorrow about it.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

overanalyze said:


> Festool did just say on FOG that they are having a meeting regarding the Kapex and the on going lifespan thread on FOG. They will release a statement tomorrow about it.


This is very exciting


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Festool did just say on FOG that they are having a meeting regarding the Kapex and the on going lifespan thread on FOG. They will release a statement tomorrow about it.


Can you keep us posted on this?


----------



## overanalyze

I can..It will be interesting either way to see what their official position on it is.


----------



## Spencer

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Spence do you have a k?
> Do you use the remote DC switch with 20v d? Or to hell with it and let it fly.


Yes I have a kapex.

To me hookup DC to that little saw would defeat the whole purpose of its portability. When I use the 20v miter saw the whole purpose is speed of not having to hook into an outlet and its small portable size. Let it fly...


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Can you keep us posted on this?


According to Tylers post on FOG, the meeting is tomorrow, Tyler stated he will post info when he is able to. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

If it really is a relatively small amount of failures releasing the failure rate would probably do good don't you think? PR has to be tough in this Internet heavy time we live in.


----------



## tjbnwi

I believe the failure rate would help------unless it was yours that failed. 

I do know the Kapex motor receives less than line voltage while running. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

tjbnwi said:


> I believe the failure rate would help------unless it was yours that failed.
> 
> I do know the Kapex motor receives less than line voltage while running.
> 
> Tom


By design?


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> By design?


Yes. The electronics ramp the voltage up if more power is needed during a cut. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Ordered the stubby Brad point bit set and a couple of the twin box sets tonight. Looks like you can order the HSS regular size metric Brad point bits all individually but not as a set. Annoying but I might try to order them all that way anyway and make my own set I guess.


----------



## tjbnwi

kixnbux said:


> Ordered the stubby Brad point bit set and a couple of the twin box sets tonight. Looks like you can order the HSS regular size metric Brad point bits all individually but not as a set. Annoying but I might try to order them all that way anyway and make my own set I guess.


The bit flutes are very sharp, be careful handling them when they're out of the case. I learned this the bloody way.

Tom


----------



## Spencer

I'm glad to be using the kapex today. It would suck breathing all this mdf all day not to mention the mess without good DC.


----------



## aaron_a

Spencer said:


> I'm glad to be using the kapex today. It would suck breathing all this mdf all day not to mention the mess without good DC.



Mdf is some nasty business. Finishes up real nice in the right applications, but man do I hate that dust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## overanalyze

My Kapex showed up today. They changed 2 bearings, the armature, and the brushes and holders. Also a stop and they put a new sticker on the side where I poked through to adjust the lasers to my liking. Sounds like it did before. Less than a week from when it left my shop til it came back. That's pretty fast. I am very happy....but I also didn't have to pay anything. 

Now as far as the official Festool response to the motor problems on the Kapex over at the FOG, they said they ran all the numbers and in the US the motor failure rate was slightly higher than other parts of the world but still within a range they consider acceptable for a failure rate. They were not planning on releasing actual numbers. 

Either way I am glad to have it back to finish up trim at our new home project and for the kitchen reno I just started! Our Dewalt 718 is dialed in perfect for cut quality but even with a vac dust is everywhere.


----------



## aaron_a

I have to send in my carvex again. It feels like it's going to jump out of my hands. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juan80

I had to send In my 300 jig saw,the blade gripper thing was throwing sparks all over the place. Fixed it ,and no problems since. About 2 years.
Great customer service in my opinion.
Charlie


----------



## aaron_a

Juan80 said:


> I had to send In my 300 jig saw,the blade gripper thing was throwing sparks all over the place. Fixed it ,and no problems since. About 2 years.
> Great customer service in my opinion.
> Charlie



I had to send in the carvex once before, and just got my ct26 back from service the other week. Service is great, but I think I'm getting to be a little too familiar 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I sent my k back to get laser cleaned, replace the dust boot and holder. Give it once over make sure it's solid. Gotta call today saying this thing needs a lot of and in poor shape. 
All the bearings shot. 3-4 sensors, cracked housing which I don't care about. 2page repair list. I told the guy it's unacceptable. Not paying 575.00. Out of warranty almost 5months and had the box and ups label for almost a year to ship back. OK my fault just too dam busy to worry about a dirty laser, broken dust boot housing. And after few back and forth calls full overall 100% whole again for 200.00

Its not the money that bothers me it's the principle of it all. Come on all the bearings and 2dozen other failing / failed things in it but still runs and cuts just as day1.
So I guess on 1 hand it makes extremely durable or the hand not. I've had dewalts and never had mechanical problems. They just essential fell apart or too much time tweaking to cut true. 

At the end great service sending it back tomorrow and Fair with price but still wtf.... At least if justifiable with 400-600 saw but it was 1250 when I bought this and to get a new model at almost 1600 is just ridiculous.


----------



## Juan80

*Festool Fan Club Thread*

I think the thing to do is
Return a kapex at two years for a good "once over" though it may be running fine at the time. Let them pay for all the parts. Ymmv.
Tell them the whatchamacallit doesn't sound right.
Glad you got the $$ lowered, City deck.
Charlie


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Juan80 said:


> I think the thing to do is
> Return a kapex at two years for a good "once over" though it may be running fine at the time. Let them pay for all the parts. Ymmv.
> Tell them the whatchamacallit doesn't sound right.
> Glad you got the $$ lowered, City deck.
> Charlie


Set your remainders.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Set your reminders.


----------



## overanalyze

Festool USA you tube video!!


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Great video. Now if they can only prevent premature failure with K. Lol


----------



## Dan_Watson

It says the video is private?


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Private for me too


----------



## brhokel606

Hmmmm, I watched it fine....maybe you guys aren't in the cool guy club I guess:laughing:


----------



## kixnbux

Private here too


----------



## overanalyze

Looks like Festool let one slip...It was on the FOG. Private there now too. Definitely shows promise of releasing this soon in the U.S.


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Festool USA you tube video!!
> 
> http://youtu.be/sisEWSJW4-o


What it is?


----------



## overanalyze

It is the vac in a systainer.


----------



## Mort

I saw it before it went private too, you aren't crazy. 

So it basically is about the same size as a Mini but without wheels or variable suction? Do I have that right?


----------



## Boone32

Mort said:


> I saw it before it went private too, you aren't crazy.
> 
> So it basically is about the same size as a Mini but without wheels or variable suction? Do I have that right?


I was able to see it too.

That's how it looked to me.


----------



## brhokel606

Mort said:


> I saw it before it went private too, you aren't crazy.
> 
> So it basically is about the same size as a Mini but without wheels or variable suction? Do I have that right?


That's what I thought too, would be kind of cool having it on the bottom of the sys cart


----------



## JohnKaznecki

I actually got to use the sys vacume. Cool little thing but the bag is small and for me I rather have the wheels for transport and pack other sys on top.
Only way I will use it as a backpack meybe or build it into portable work banch?

Best future you can use the hose as blower. It has a discharge on the back side.


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Does anybody know what size track will fit the festi Flag Stop http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/flag-stops/p/495542/
> 
> I'd like to put them on 3/4 ply extensions and was thinking of dado for flush mount.
> 
> Thanks


Are you asking about a C-channel track? Do you want to use them on guide rails? I use mine on the Festool fences. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> Are you asking about a C-channel track? Do you want to use them on guide rails? I use mine on the Festool fences.
> 
> Tom


put into one of these

http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-Track-S...1458528828&sr=8-1&keywords=incra+track+system



this would work too http://www.amazon.com/Woodpeckers-P...sktop?ie=UTF8&pi=SL500_SS115&ref_=pd_aw_sbs_6 just like the flag stops are lil bigger.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> which Squangle do you use?


This is actually a Squangle we used to use it to cut rafters and seatcuts. The lower pic is what I use as an angle guide to cut borders. I call it a sqangle as well.


----------



## Calidecks

Not sure what the bottom of the Festool looks like but here's the muf.


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> put into one of these
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-Track-S...1458528828&sr=8-1&keywords=incra+track+system
> 
> 
> 
> this would work too http://www.amazon.com/Woodpeckers-P...sktop?ie=UTF8&pi=SL500_SS115&ref_=pd_aw_sbs_6 just like the flag stops are lil bigger.


I just tried the Festool flip stop on an Incra track. The edge of the stop protrudes slightly from the face of the track.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

So it Does not fit??


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> So it Does not fit??


It will fit in the channel, not real well. It will not be rock solid and can twist.

Tom


----------



## Builders Inc.

Californiadecks said:


> This is actually a Squangle we used to use it to cut rafters and seatcuts. The lower pic is what I use as an angle guide to cut borders. I call it a sqangle as well.



I carry that adjustable speed square. And a Swanson with me. Along with a framing square and square locks when I frame. Love that yellow and black Stanley. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

Builders Inc. said:


> I carry that adjustable speed square. And a Swanson with me. Along with a framing square and square locks when I frame. Love that yellow and black Stanley.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They make great deck spacers as well, because they stick up out of the groove and you can grab them easy. They are also the prefect thickness.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> It will fit in the channel, not real well. It will not be rock solid and can twist.
> 
> Tom


Looks like I'll go with Wood pecker from the link above. 
Thanks Tom.


----------



## overanalyze

I like the hose on the CT 36AC...it is nice and flexible and a good size for general cleanup. The end design doesn't work with the stock Festool angled nozzle in the compact cleaning kit...until now. If you cut the larger hub off the hose now fits snug around the handle. The smaller 27mm hose end will also still fit in the end.


----------



## kixnbux

Got my OF1400 with edge guide and rail guides today. Looks awesome!


----------



## overanalyze

I keep watching the Mafell KSS40 video and then the Festool HKC55 video. I want to try one...


----------



## Calidecks

The kss400, 40, and 300 can all be used with the flexy track


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

And it's cordless... Sweet. Battery looks similar to HILTI 36v which is a beast. Probably made by Panasonic like HILTI. Panasonic has the technology all buttoned up on batteries.


----------



## Tom M

Californiadecks said:


> The kss400, 40, and 300 can all be used with the flexy track
> 
> https://youtu.be/GsKsq485s8w



Mike that isnt the Mafell you have is it?

I wish Festool had a flex track, be nice on the long ones


----------



## Deckhead

Mafell sure makes some sweet tools. Im very tempted on their jigsaw after looking at it.

Their tracks are a step above festools but the cost is a lot more from what I understand.


----------



## Mort

Core77 just posted a YouTube video about a Mafell automatic track saw. The automatic part seems silly but the vacuum plugs into the rail, which would be cool.


----------



## tjbnwi

Looks like the HK saws will be here this fall. 

http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/hkc-release-dtae-stateside/msg449763/?topicseen#msg449763

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

Tom M said:


> Mike that isnt the Mafell you have is it?
> 
> I wish Festool had a flex track, be nice on the long ones


No I have the mt55cc. I sure am tempted to get a kss400. I want someone else to buy it so I can get a review. :laughing:


----------



## Inner10

StrongTower said:


> What happens when you want a jobsite Bose Wave Radio, in a systainer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Service Exceeding Expectation


Can't make the Bose sound much worse.


----------



## JohnKaznecki

Is there a blade out there for ts55 to cut ceramic?
I need to cut 6mm ceramic panel that is 120 inches long.
Thanks


----------



## StrongTower

Inner10 said:


> Can't make the Bose sound much worse.



It's another sub's radio. I thought it was pretty funny. Does sound better than any other "jobsite" radio that I've heard. 


Service Exceeding Expectation


----------



## Spencer

StrongTower said:


> It's another sub's radio. I thought it was pretty funny. Does sound better than any other "jobsite" radio that I've heard.
> 
> 
> Service Exceeding Expectation


Do you see festool on the job a lot? I've never met another person on a job with a single festool. Don't even know anyone local that has anything.


----------



## kixnbux

I've never seen anyone in person with Festool either lol. Come to think of it I'm usually the only one in the Festool area at woodcraft when I go too, even when it's busy.


----------



## StrongTower

Spencer said:


> Do you see festool on the job a lot? I've never met another person on a job with a single festool. Don't even know anyone local that has anything.



Some here and there. Cabinet installer on this job has a Kapex, some Systainers and domino. 


Service Exceeding Expectation


----------



## tjbnwi

JohnKaznecki said:


> Is there a blade out there for ts55 to cut ceramic?
> I need to cut 6mm ceramic panel that is 120 inches long.
> Thanks


No. 

You could have a 6" diamond blade punched.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I see them, but it's the same couple guys that had them when I first saw them 9 years ago.


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> Do you see festool on the job a lot? I've never met another person on a job with a single festool. Don't even know anyone local that has anything.


Yes.

Tom


----------



## Spencer

tjbnwi said:


> Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Justin doesn't count.


----------



## tjbnwi

Spencer said:


> Justin doesn't count.


Justin's not an anyone?

I've met/know others also. 

I'm doing some finish work for a GC who got my contact info from my posts on FOG. He also owns Festools.

Tom


----------



## Mort

I know of one other guy that has Festools around here. The guys at the lumber yard hadn't even heard of them.


----------



## Justin Huisenga

Spencer said:


> Do you see festool on the job a lot? I've never met another person on a job with a single festool. Don't even know anyone local that has anything.


Just about every guy I know on the install side has at least a track saw. Quite a few guys carry more.


----------



## JohnKaznecki

tjbnwi said:


> No.
> 
> You could have a 6" diamond blade punched.
> 
> Tom


I just bought a 4'' rigid blade at hd with 20mm arbor and tested on scrap tile. Works good. I will order tomorrow the 2 slabs for my shower and cut it myself. Will post picture once done. 2 slabs will cost me 2k.
Fabricator quoted me 5.5k to do it.
Even if I screw up one panel I will have left over for the kss300 and some other things I been trying to get.


----------



## Moxley-Kidwell

Hey gentlemen quick question. Festool recommends the 36mm hose for the HL 850 planer, is there a coupler to connect the tool to my 27mm vac hose? Don't really want to invest in the larger hose until I know the smaller won't work for me. Thanks


----------



## tjbnwi

Moxley-Kidwell said:


> Hey gentlemen quick question. Festool recommends the 36mm hose for the HL 850 planer, is there a coupler to connect the tool to my 27mm vac hose? Don't really want to invest in the larger hose until I know the smaller won't work for me. Thanks


27mm wont work.

Tom


----------



## JohnKaznecki

Moxley-Kidwell said:


> Hey gentlemen quick question. Festool recommends the 36mm hose for the HL 850 planer, is there a coupler to connect the tool to my 27mm vac hose? Don't really want to invest in the larger hose until I know the smaller won't work for me. Thanks


Do what I did.
Order from Amazon
Bosch VAC005 5-Meter Vacuum Hose 35mm
Works just fine for me.
I was going to retrofit the 27mm but it will definitly not work.
I do own two festool 36mm but they are with my guys on job sites. The bosch stays in shop.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

JohnKaznecki said:


> I just bought a 4'' rigid blade at hd with 20mm arbor and tested on scrap tile. Works good. I will order tomorrow the 2 slabs for my shower and cut it myself. Will post picture once done. 2 slabs will cost me 2k.
> Fabricator quoted me 5.5k to do it.
> Even if I screw up one panel I will have left over for the kss300 and some other things I been trying to get.


How thick are those slabs?
Slabs of what?
You going to use the festi track saw to cut?
I have 200+ 3/4" tile to cut Coming up and was going to use mad 77, dust boot and AC 36.


----------



## JohnKaznecki

CITY DECKS INC said:


> How thick are those slabs?
> You going to use the festi track saw to cut?
> I have 200+ 3/4" tile to cut Coming up and was going to use mad 77, dust boot and AC 36.


Yes I will try festool track for that.
I started a new post in tilling forum.
They are only 6mm in thickness.


----------



## Inner10

I pre ordered my CTL-SYS I can't believe I just spend $525 2 months before getting a stupid vacuum inside an ABS box.


----------



## river rider

I went with bosch 35mm hose and bosch accessory kit off amazon. Quite a bit cheaper, and seem to work just fine for me. I didn't think those items being "festool" would be significant difference to me. Doesn't come with systainer of course. I toss the brush bar and accessories in a cheap plastic tool box.

Did go with festool on the midi itself and the turbo brush. On those items I thought festool quality would be worthwhile. Zero regrets.

BTW, I recommended midi for general size & usability, NOT because of any suction issues. I don't know about that, but heard they have same motor/suction specs. Mini just seemed too small capacity to have the same overall utility. Midi is still very portable , and one hand carry, with significantly more capacity. Works out perfect for me.


----------



## AccurateCut

Domino simply simple and so dam good at making things join together


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Domino all the way. By far my favorite Tool


----------



## Juan80

AccurateCut said:


> Domino simply simple and so dam good at making things join together



Definitely One of the coolest tools I have


----------



## BeachCarpenter

Agreed. Domino 700 by far my favorite tool. 2"+ table tops and 10x10 legs..no problem. It makes so many furniture joints easy and fast.


----------



## aaron_a

Don't use my 700 a ton, but in glad I have it. I bought the Seneca adapter and plates thinking I would use it for 3/4 stock more often, but it's just too cumbersome I think. I'd like to pick up a 500 one of these days 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BeachCarpenter

aaron_a said:


> Don't use my 700 a ton, but in glad I have it. I bought the Seneca adapter and plates thinking I would use it for 3/4 stock more often, but it's just too cumbersome I think. I'd like to pick up a 500 one of these days
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've been thinking the same.. The 700 has been so incredible for furniture, chairs and doors that Ive been itching to get a 500 for more everyday trim use. I have some jobs lined up in about a month that should make me pull the trigger.


----------



## tjbnwi

I have the 700 and 500, I've read that most prefer the ergonomics of the 700. I don't find that to be the case. I choose the one that fits the project best.

One of three doors fabricated with the 700.

Tom


----------



## BeachCarpenter

Ive heard that also but I dont have any ergonomic issues with my biscuit joiner so I imagine the 500 is about the same.. I think the size and weight of the 500 would be nice for case work, door/window casing, scarf joints etc.. Basically replace my biscuit with better joint alignment


----------



## Calidecks

aaron_a said:


> Don't use my 700 a ton, but in glad I have it. I bought the Seneca adapter and plates thinking I would use it for 3/4 stock more often, but it's just too cumbersome I think. I'd like to pick up a 500 one of these days
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice work Aaron.


----------



## Juan80

I have the 500, and find it to be great.
When I find a need for a 700 , I'll get it for sure. 
I have been making garage cabinets with the smaller one.
Gates look great.
Charlie


----------



## country_huck

Man I don't know about some of you guys but I was looking at the prices after this last price hike WOW is all I have to say. 

If I wouldn't have started buying into festool years ago in not sure I would at this point. 

There are a few tools that are still on my wish list that are going to have to wait for that "right" job.


----------



## aptpupil

Yeah, and considering the dollar is strong against the Euro these hikes are even worse.


----------



## Tom M

Big big set on them


----------



## Dan_Watson

For some of the tools I have no problem paying. But I am never going to go all Festool, especially the cordless. 

The HK looks quite nice though....


----------



## kixnbux

Dan_Watson said:


> For some of the tools I have no problem paying. But I am never going to go all Festool, especially the cordless.
> 
> The HK looks quite nice though....




I never planned on investing in the cordless either but dang are the drills nice! Got two now and considering a cordless Tracksaw to add to my corded one


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Yeah, best drills I have owned.


----------



## country_huck

There cordless drill are just one thing I have not been able to wrap my head around. I'm sure they are great products but I am the guy that gets many many years of use out of other manufactures drills at half the cost I just can't swallow that pill..... Yet?


----------



## aaron_a

I'd have to get a drill in my hand before I make any judgements on them. For now I'm plenty happy with my dewalt 20v. But that cordless sds does look sweet 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kixnbux

aaron_a said:


> I'd have to get a drill in my hand before I make any judgements on them. For now I'm plenty happy with my dewalt 20v. But that cordless sds does look sweet
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I've run the dewalt 20v line primarily. Have half dozen of the drills and impacts. They're great but I barely use them now. Except the impact obviously. The PDC 18/4 Quadrive replaces them nicely. Now the CXS... I love that thing for trim work, cabinetry, pocket holes etc. just smooth and light all the way. Might get a second one. The swapping chucks out instead of bits is insanely handy doing cabinet hardware. YMMV


----------



## tjbnwi

You only have to bevel the saw one direction. Flipping the base over is faster than beveling the saw. 

Tom


----------



## Juan80

*Festool Fan Club Thread*



overanalyze said:


> I also was very used to cutting all base vertical. The upfront control and the large degree indicator make it easy. If anything I like it now because I cope flat...so why not cut flat. Having nice extensions help.



I like your set up


----------



## Juan80

overanalyze said:


> I also was very used to cutting all base vertical. The upfront control and the large degree indicator make it easy. If anything I like it now because I cope flat...so why not cut flat. Having nice extensions help.



I like your set up


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> T-15, 5-1/2" hole saw, drilled through 1/2" drywall, 1/2" plywood for 10 recessed light, 1 battery with an unknown state of charge.
> 
> About 30 seconds a hole.
> 
> Tom


LOVE THE DUST BOOT. JUST AWESOME.... :thumbsup:


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> LOVE THE DUST BOOT. JUST AWESOME.... :thumbsup:


It catches 99.9% of the dust. Only issue is having to pre-drill the pilot hole, it's hard to see a mark.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Drilling the pilot hole accounts for the missing .1% of the dust :whistling


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Drilling the pilot hole accounts for the missing .1% of the dust :whistling


This gets the pilot drill dust. 

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-to...r-nozzles/drill-dust-collection-nozzle-500483

Didn't want to over sell the dust "boot" with a 100% rating.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Pilot hole could be done with a half a tennis ball :thumbsup:


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Pilot hole could be done with a half a tennis ball :thumbsup:


Genius...

Tom


----------



## BeachCarpenter

overanalyze said:


> I also was very used to cutting all base vertical. The upfront control and the large degree indicator make it easy. If anything I like it now because I cope flat...so why not cut flat. Having nice extensions help.


Agreed. I have the Bosch and with similar wings.. Upfront bevel controls and wings makes it real easy to cut flat..then just roll the saw to cut the straight cut of the cope.. I love my Bosch but a Kapex is on the list for this summer


----------



## brhokel606

Ordered a SYS-combo 3 systainer, Sortainer SYS T-Loc and 2 packages of plastic containers for those Combi's!!! 

I soooooooooooo can't wait for these to come in!!!


----------



## Tom M

Andrew were those home made wings on that saw set up? They look well designed.


----------



## overanalyze

Tom M said:


> Andrew were those home made wings on that saw set up? They look well designed.


They were. I made them off of a few different pictures I saw out there. I think my favorite things about them is the wide surface to work off of and when cutting small pieces of trim off of larger ones, you don't have pieces falling off one side of the cut because of lack of support.


----------



## aaron_a

Picked up the cxs from Craigslist today. Go figure, the seller is one of the guys online who posts all the reviews and tutorials about all the Festool goodies.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Brice?


----------



## aaron_a

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Brice?




Yep


----------



## dkillianjr

aaron_a said:


> Picked up the cxs from Craigslist today. Go figure, the seller is one of the guys online who posts all the reviews and tutorials about all the Festool goodies.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's funny, I bought a router off him not too long ago. Nice guy. 

Dave


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Man knows when to purge..... I was thinking recently since my kapex was practically rebuilt to start selling off every 2-3years and buy new / updated. I do that with all the other tools I own. 
What are used festi getting these days. Last time I came accros festi item on CG they were averaging 10% below retail.


----------



## Spencer

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Man knows when to purge..... I was thinking recently since my kapex was practically rebuilt to start selling off every 2-3years and buy new / updated. I do that with all the other tools I own.
> What are used festi getting these days. Last time I came accros festi item on CG they were averaging 10% below retail.


If that's the case its definitely a seller's market and makes sense. I can't fathom buying used to save a measly 10%.


----------



## aaron_a

Spencer said:


> If that's the case its definitely a seller's market and makes sense. I can't fathom buying used to save a measly 10%.




The prices people are asking are nuts. I have seen some good deals on Craigslist out here though.


----------



## Mort

I got 10% below retail for my Carvex. One guy tried to lowball me so I sent a somewhat long winded response on Festool resale values. The next guy couldn't get his wallet out fast enough.


----------



## tccoggs

If Festool keeps raising prices for what seems to be no good reason other than because they can, the tools will continue to be a good investment from a resale perspective, but I wouldn't bother buying used to save 10%. It would have to be 30% or so for it to make any sense at all.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Not getting those prices out of a 2 year old Dewalt drill or saw or whatever.


----------



## Calidecks

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Not getting those prices out of a 2 year old Dewalt drill or saw or whatever.


WTF would anyone pay almost full price for anything 2 years old? Makes zero sense at all. If I'm going to have to pay 80%, I might as well but them new. Especially for an older model of something.


----------



## brhokel606

Californiadecks said:


> WTF would anyone pay almost full price for anything 2 years old? Makes zero sense at all. If I'm going to have to pay 80%, I might as well but them new. Especially for an older model of something.


I agree, I have looked at used Festool and not worth it to me, I'll just buy new for not much more money. I get full warranty too


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I'm with you all not buying used for 10% less then new. I don't get it either. But they buy it. 
Warner is right you won't get those numbers from Dewalt Milwaukee etc.
I'll be sending back my ac36 before warranty runs out.
Sell off midi and pick up new . 
Recently had 1400router overhauled. And the kapex with shot bearings and a laundry list chit.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I'm with you all not buying used for 10% less then new. I don't get it either. But they buy it.
> Warner is right you won't get those numbers from Dewalt Milwaukee etc.
> I'll be sending back my ac36 before warranty runs out.
> Sell off midi and pick up new .
> Recently had 1400router overhauled. And the kapex with shot bearings and a laundry list chit.


With the price difference in Milwaukee fuel and Festool, I don't need to get those numbers. Not when I can buy three to one.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Californiadecks said:


> WTF would anyone pay almost full price for anything 2 years old? Makes zero sense at all. If I'm going to have to pay 80%, I might as well but them new. Especially for an older model of something.



It makes great sense to me. Nice to know my 3 year old power tool is worth something if I want to sell it. Not getting anything out any other tool used.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> With the price difference in Milwaukee fuel and Festool, I don't need to get those numbers. Not when I can buy three to one.


That was my logic with Hilti cordless tools.



WarnerConstInc. said:


> It makes great sense to me. Nice to know my 3 year old power tool is worth something if I want to sell it. Not getting anything out any other tool used.


Is it? How often do you sell a cordless drill?


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Inner10 said:


> That was my logic with Hilti cordless tools.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it? How often do you sell a cordless drill?



I don't sell off cordless drills. I only have 4 to begin with.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Inner10 said:


> That was my logic with Hilti cordless tools.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it? How often do you sell a cordless drill?


I got a full HILTI cordless line. Never sold. Just bring in for new ones with in warranty. Top notch service.


----------



## Inner10

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I got a full HILTI cordless line. Never sold. Just bring in for new ones with in warranty. Top notch service.


So did I....then I replaced them all...


----------



## Boone32

What size dust extractor would you guys recommend for general use? TS and job site clean up mostly.


----------



## Deckhead

Boone32 said:


> What size dust extractor would you guys recommend for general use? TS and job site clean up mostly.


Midi


----------



## kixnbux

Boone32 said:


> What size dust extractor would you guys recommend for general use? TS and job site clean up mostly.




MIDI here too


----------



## tjbnwi

The CT's with the 27 mm hose are not a great large debris site clean up vac.

Midi for your first...

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

I do run a large shop vac for just plain garbage pick up. Stuff that fills it rapidly. Plaster from lathe removal etc. Ymmv


----------



## Boone32

tjbnwi said:


> The CT's with the 27 mm hose are not a great large debris site clean up vac.
> 
> Midi for your first...
> 
> Tom


That's good to know. Thanks guys.


----------



## aaron_a

I got a 26 first. Just added a midi a few months ago. The 26 can be a bit big and cumbersome, especially when full, but with the cleaning kit it does a good job for general cleanup. Even with the bigger hose in he cleaning kit, I still need to sweep a bit first. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckhead

Anyone else have a problem with their carvex? Mine cuts like its got a dull blade. I've tried a bunch of things but this only came up about a month ago. This is the second problem I've had with it. I'm very tempted to buy the mafell jigsaw and sell the carvex.


----------



## tjbnwi

My cordless Carvex is a great saw, the corded not very good. I should send it in for service.

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

Deckhead said:


> Anyone else have a problem with their carvex? Mine cuts like its got a dull blade. I've tried a bunch of things but this only came up about a month ago. This is the second problem I've had with it. I'm very tempted to buy the mafell jigsaw and sell the carvex.




Mines driving me nuts. I've had to send it back once before. Mine starts to vibrate real hard and stops cutting nicely. I keep meaning to send it in for an overhaul.


----------



## aptpupil

Used the carvex a few times, I'll stick with my Bosch.


----------



## Juan80

I have a trion and it seems to be a good saw.
I contemplated getting the carvex but the only difference was the strobe light and I didn't feel that was worth the extra money


----------



## aaron_a

Juan80 said:


> I have a trion and it seems to be a good saw.
> I contemplated getting the carvex but the only difference was the strobe light and I didn't feel that was worth the extra money




Strobe and brushless motor. As well as the stupid base


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have the corded and cordless carvex. I like them both.


----------



## country_huck

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I have the corded and cordless carvex. I like them both.


Is there a tool from festool you don't like? You never have anything negitive to say. 

That's a legitimate question not trying to be a jerk.


----------



## aptpupil

He doesn't like the mft accessories.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

country_huck said:


> Is there a tool from festool you don't like? You never have anything negitive to say.
> 
> That's a legitimate question not trying to be a jerk.


Yeah, the mft fence and rail thing is dumb. I didn't care for my ro90, I wish my dx93 and ras115 had plug its, the attic systainers are stupid, they fill up with water. 

The handle on my ct22 is stupid.


----------



## Philament

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yeah, the mft fence and rail thing is dumb. I didn't care for my ro90, I wish my dx93 and ras115 had plug its, the attic systainers are stupid, they fill up with water.
> 
> The handle on my ct22 is stupid.


And I thought I was the only one that didn't like the RO90. Very regrettable purchase.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Philament said:


> And I thought I was the only one that didn't like the RO90. Very regrettable purchase.



It was OK. Too close to my ro125 and it was taller then my dx93.


----------



## Deckhead

I'm not a real big fan of the carvex, I am 2 problems in now and bought it when it first came out. The RO90 never thrilled me either. The mft tables are just meh to me all together. Probably good if you had at least 4 hooked together, but alone just kind of sits and collects lots of systainers on top. Not real impressed with lights on the drills either, they are in some dumb places.

Oh and the open systainers suck. The tools are really nice but I'm starting to lose fanatical fervor for festool, probably because I'm moving towards bigger machinery. Maybe because I don't feel the need to buy the newest stuff and I'm good with my car investment in hand tools... not sure.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I have most of the things I need. 
I could use a couple more sanders though. I like my kapex mft


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Boone32 said:


> What size dust extractor would you guys recommend for general use? TS and job site clean up mostly.


Midi. And cordless Dewalt or whatever cordless line you carry. My midi is my go to 70%.


----------



## country_huck

I never got bit real hard with the festool fever. I have a good bit of their tools and some I wouldn't trade for the world, but as their prices keep climbing and other manufactures keep stepping up their game. I feel the whole thing will become bleh sooner than later.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Inner10 said:


> So did I....then I replaced them all...


How sweet are those 24+ volt batteries.


----------



## tjbnwi

I like my MFT's and RO 90. 

Tom


----------



## country_huck

I do want to add a midi to my collection the ct 36ac is become a pain to move around. 

I still am not decided if I want to add the kapex mobile stand and extensions. I have a set a wings I built and goes with the dewalt stand but I would like something a little faster to set up for those smaller trim jobs.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> The CT's with the 27 mm hose are not a great large debris site clean up vac.
> 
> Midi for your first...
> 
> Tom


Pick up 36mil Bosch from Amazon. You can't beat it. If you use the 36mil primarily for miter or table saw cut to 5-6'.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

country_huck said:


> I do want to add a midi to my collection the ct 36ac is become a pain to move around.
> 
> I still am not decided if I want to add the kapex mobile stand and extensions. I have a set a wings I built and goes with the dewalt stand but I would like something a little faster to set up for those smaller trim jobs.


Got a Pict or extension Wing set up? Also why not just use the Dewalt built in wings for small 1/2 day stuff. 
I use Dewalt stand and saw helpers or built in wings or my 8ft plywood wings. I hate them all for setup and move.


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Pick up 36mil Bosch from Amazon. You can't beat it. If you use the 36mil primarily for miter or table saw cut to 5-6'.


I have a few 36 mm hoses. Some are fitted for the Kapex, a couple for the CMS, Planex hose used for general stuff when not on the Planex.

Tom


----------



## country_huck

CITY DECKS INC said:


> country_huck said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do want to add a midi to my collection the ct 36ac is become a pain to move around.
> 
> I still am not decided if I want to add the kapex mobile stand and extensions. I have a set a wings I built and goes with the dewalt stand but I would like something a little faster to set up for those smaller trim jobs.
> 
> 
> 
> Got a Pict or extension Wing set up? Also why not just use the Dewalt built in wings for small 1/2 day stuff.
> I use Dewalt stand and saw helpers or built in wings or my 8ft plywood wings. I hate them all for setup and move.
Click to expand...

I will have to take a pic tomorrow. My biggest gripe is that it takes me three trips to set up my stand. I'm getting lazy and want something fast and portable


----------



## aaron_a

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yeah, the mft fence and rail thing is dumb. I didn't care for my ro90, I wish my dx93 and ras115 had plug its, the attic systainers are stupid, they fill up with water.
> 
> The handle on my ct22 is stupid.


I bought mine thinking the fence and rail set up would be sweet for doing dadoes with the router and cutting cabinet parts from plywood. I really dont use it at all. Its such a hassle to have to square up all the time.

Almost bought an ro90 a while ago, went with the dts400 instead, which I am really happy with.


----------



## overanalyze

country_huck said:


> I will have to take a pic tomorrow. My biggest gripe is that it takes me three trips to set up my stand. I'm getting lazy and want something fast and portable


This is why I went to a Keter table. Quick and light. If I want a larger setup I bring my wings, for quick stuff a roller stand or nothing does fine.

Hell some days its the floor and a couple sys1's.


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> I like my MFT's and RO 90.
> 
> Tom


You do seem to have a system that works for you. On the job stuff, festool is hard to beat for me.

The mft just doesn't fit for my way of working.

Festool is definitely a system and when you have that system working for you, its smart. I would never bag on festool, they make a quality product, some use it to their advantage, some complain about price, some never invest the time to learn the system to tailor to their needs. Never used the kapex mft. Also havent pulled the trigger on the UG stand because the fastcap stand is pretty sweet and comparable.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

The kapex ug cart is really sweet. Not a big fan of there wings. We hardly ever need a cart to wheel the kapex. But when needed we have custom fabd condo carts I call them. 32x48x36h. Fits everything dedicated in its in slot / space. Kapex, mini Dewalt table saw, saw helpers, levels, cordless package fasters etc etc. 1 trip in off loading dock, elevator commercial space. If anything Does not fit in cart it rides in sys on midi or ac36 or both.


----------



## AustinDB

why didn't they design the wings for the UG cart to have a stop that always lined up the back so that it's flush with the saw (adjustable of course). They are hard to tighten down too, my guys never set it up correctly


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Once I showed the guys how to set it up right, it's been set up right most times. There are rare occasions where the latch doesn't end up in the right spot when tightening the knob.


----------



## aaron_a

Is the auto clean vac pretty much required to run the planex? I'm doing a kitchen right now and am dreading sanding it with my ets and dts, but I don't want to buy a 3rd ct right now 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

You can buy just the Planex hose, use any CT you have. Use the bag, it will plug the pores, but the filters will stay cleaner. Not the best set up, but it works.

The Planex hose locks on the Planex.

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Well it official. 2 festi products down. 
1st kapex.
Today ac36.
The pitch has been a lot higher last few days and today the auto button or plug is dead. Bought this thing and has been a great value for drywall patch, tuck Pointing, cutting and polishing.... Less then 15months old.

Wtf festi. I would of bought the HILTI but they don't have plug for tools or any of those support and sys factor which is huge.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

It's official. I'm selling festi like the rest and upgrading before warranty runs out.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

At least with HILTI I can walk into store with damaged or broken tools and walk out with new as a temp or total replacement in real Time.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Also will not baby my tools there made to work. No fkn blankets or getting tucked in at night bs...no climate control. Real work environments you hang or get traded in. 850.00 is real money and is expected to perform at least 3-4years. I also can't fkn stand there garage housing. I've replaced 3 on the AC and 2 on the midi over the last year. 1 tumble and they crack. Fkn junk...


----------



## Dan_Watson

We beat the **** out of our Bosch vacs.

Rain, falls, inside and out, back of trucks, pulling them around by the hose. 

I was uhh, cleaning the hose, and pulled it right off the work bench. Broke a pc of the housing off but the thing was kicking just fine. It would have been fine if a L2 wasn't attached to the top (L2 survived just fine). Screwed it back together and its been going just fine for months now.


----------



## Nick R

City, that's rough. Can you outright ask the service department to go through entire tools? My tracksaw had a motor burning/ sparking incident but I continue to use it ... I'm closing in on 2 1/2 years now and would like an overhaul.


----------



## aaron_a

when did this happen?

http://www.walmart.com/c/brand/festool-festool-collection


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> when did this happen?
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/c/brand/festool-festool-collection


First I've seen it.

Tom


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

aaron_a said:


> when did this happen?
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/c/brand/festool-festool-collection


Looks like it ships from Hartville Tool


----------



## aaron_a

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Looks like it ships from Hartville Tool


Where are you seeing that?

That place is crazy, I drove out there for a katz roadshow last year. Somehow managed to get out with only a couple packs of abranet...


----------



## Dan_Watson

Yea, It is like Bestbuy showing third party retailers when you search on their site.

Walmart Marketplace Buying Options
Here's what you need to know about buying from our approved Marketplace Retailers:
Marketplace items are not returnable to Walmart.com or Walmart stores
You can buy Walmart.com and Marketplace items in the same order
It's safe - we don't share your credit card information with Marketplace Retailers
Marketplace Retailers ship the items you buy from them
Tracking details (if available) can be found in your Walmart account
Marketplace Retailers provide customer service for the items you buy from them


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

aaron_a said:


> when did this happen?
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/c/brand/festool-festool-collection


No fkn way.....wow. Im speechless.


----------



## Philament

aaron_a said:


> Where are you seeing that?
> 
> That place is crazy, I drove out there for a katz roadshow last year. Somehow managed to get out with only a couple packs of abranet...


It's in the description of the items.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

https://www.us.hilti.com/cutting,-sawing-&-grinding/vacuum-cleaners/r4635738






I've been waiting for this since I got my midi 3years ago.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Been waiting for this since I got my midi almost 3yrs ago


----------



## overanalyze

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Been waiting for this since I got my midi almost 3yrs ago
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tlG4QarwDg8


Curious why they didn't test it against the CT36AC....


----------



## Dan_Watson

overanalyze said:


> Curious why they didn't test it against the CT36AC....


Or the Bosch. 

Which has much higher CFM and costs half as much.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

No idea.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I'll check if the vac is in store tomorrow. They also have hybrid that can be operated with batteries or cord. Fkn brilliant.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I'll check if the vac is in store tomorrow. They also have hybrid that can be operated with batteries or cord. Fkn brilliant.


If they have in store I'll bring in my ac36 for a head to Head. They have a Demo area in there store which is cool.


----------



## Dan_Watson

CITY DECKS INC said:


> If they have in store I'll bring in my ac36 for a head to Head. They have a Demo area in there store which is cool.


Which store? I am available tomorrow with the Bosch if its local and not first thing in the morning.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Dan_Watson said:


> Which store? I am available tomorrow with the Bosch if its local and not first thing in the morning.


philly.... grays ferry. across from diamond tool


----------



## Dan_Watson

I use Diamond but I had no idea there was a Hilti there. Our office is less than 20 minutes from there.


----------



## john5mt

Video that demo!!!! I've been eyeing one of those hilti's but they make the 36ac seem cheap. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Dan_Watson said:


> Or the Bosch.
> 
> Which has much higher CFM and costs half as much.


although the cfm varies, i'm not sure how they all relate? higher cfm doesn't alway suck more. not sure how it works. but think it all boils down to the filter restrictions. the 

festis 130cfm
bosch 150
hilti 129
dewalt 140
makita 135

yes bosch is the highest.

hilti price on line is not the real price. when you have an account is much lower. also can work them for perks. there have no problem thowing stuff in. they have a dozen ways to right it up in there system. 

festi ac36 is primarly made for drywall dust. which is the smallest micron in construction. .05 or something smaller the masonry dust . i might be off with exact word it's been a while. but before buying i was pretty clear when asking festi tech. did the masonry dust kill the the ac or it just just can't hang. the only reason i bought it was because i already have there products and several other in the sys boxes. you know the system which we all know is great. 
any way back to topic of cfm. i think its based on the filter. not sure...


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

CITY DECKS INC said:


> No idea.


mfg's decline trials / test. Who knows. where was makita? why cant th just buy them off the shelf it's not like cpl of thousand dollars towards marketing test can't be justified.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

john5mt said:


> Video that demo!!!! I've been eyeing one of those hilti's but they make the 36ac seem cheap.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


i know the hilt vac plastic housing is like bullet proof. i used to have one before it was ripped off. had it for almost 4yrs beat the chit out it. just ran everything through it. can't count the miles of brick dust that was run through it. and god only know how many times fell down the steps rolled over. and nothing.


----------



## aptpupil

What do you guys do when sanding on a ladder with vacuum on ground?
Looking into this, but cost is kinda crazy. Any alternatives?
Festool 500940 Hose with Sleeve 10m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IOGX3K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FsXdxbSBK3JM5


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

aptpupil said:


> What do you guys do when sanding on a ladder with vacuum on ground?
> Looking into this, but cost is kinda crazy. Any alternatives?
> Festool 500940 Hose with Sleeve 10m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IOGX3K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FsXdxbSBK3JM5


OK. We just experienced this for the first time last week. We had to add sprinkler heads added. Place was finished and has 20ft ceilings. To sand Patch work we (see pitc). I tried to DBL the the length with my 27m and suction was weak. It still powered the turbo Sander but just took twice as long. I wasn't going accros town back to shop for my other 36m. Maybe that would of worked better ...?? Maybe 2-27m would if better...??We just pulled the ac36 up about 5' and tied off on ladder. 32ft of hose seems like a nightmare to handle. I would just add another 16ft Bosch 27 or 36. Anti static or not that's just ridiculous price.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I hook my 36mm and 27mm hoses together.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

I have to make correction. 
1- router 1400 rebuilt.
1-kapex bearings and laundry list.
1-ac36 loader and ug or auto is dead.

Total of 3festis going down. In the last 3months. All less the 3yrs old.


----------



## JohnKaznecki

Who owns the new vac-sys clamping system?

We are getting into refinishing a lot of kitchen cabinet doors and would be a time saver to hold the doors when we prep them.

Just want somone opinion from here before I pull the triger.


----------



## tjbnwi

I've had it since the release date. Use it every day I'm in the shop. You'll need the additional heads for cabinet doors.

I'm thinking about getting the MFT brackets for convenience. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I hook my 36mm and 27mm hoses together.


Tried on the turbo Sander. Never for straight up sanding. Like I said pressure was weak but still worked.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

CITY DECKS INC said:


> Tried on the turbo Sander. Never for straight up sanding. Like I said pressure was weak but still worked.


No problems with it sanding clap boards, my paint shaver or anything else.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> I have to make correction.
> 1- router 1400 rebuilt.
> 1-kapex bearings and laundry list.
> 1-ac36 loader and ug or auto is dead.
> 
> Total of 3festis going down. In the last 3months. All less the 3yrs old.


Uh oh!


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

It's also the same guy that swore he had 4 bad Kapex's in a row, but it just turned out to be junk blades.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's also the same guy that swore he had 4 bad Kapex's in a row, but it just turned out to be junk blades.


im sure all of you have never experienced a saw shut down on a 2nd deck job. used for chit load of blocking. oh and by way the junk blades were from festi. they really do suck.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

oh and btw again. the button fell off the ac36 today. wtf.. thank god i can still use with the remote start. i'm in the middle of house reno and need 2 vacs. actually can use a 3rd. i cant stand the dust. i dont how i used to do this chit and don't how you guys do it.


----------



## Sisyphus

CITY DECKS INC said:


> ... cant stand the dust......


Yeah, that's the big benefit of the Festool stuff as far as I'm concerned. Setting aside the obvious health hazards to all who are exposed, being able to cut closer to where the material is being used and less cleanup time saves time ($$$).

It's not just the saving of 30 minutes of walking or cleaning up over the course of a day, sometimes that extra time means the job carries over into the next day. So instead of starting at a new site it's a broken up day, more driving, one extra set up and take down session etc....


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> oh and btw again. the button fell off the ac36 today. wtf.. thank god i can still use with the remote start. i'm in the middle of house reno and need 2 vacs. actually can use a 3rd. i cant stand the dust. i dont how i used to do this chit and don't how you guys do it.



I have no clue what is going on with your tools. Pack them so they don't bounce around so much? Mine move at least as much as yours, never had any of the issues you're having. Not a single broken piece on any of them. 

I treat my tools for what they are----tools I don't baby them. 

None of the above is a criticism in any way, just bewilderment on my part. 

I hate the dust also, that's why I have all the CT's I have. Need a few more because I hate swapping cords and hoses. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> I have no clue what is going on with your tools. Pack them so they don't bounce around so much? Mine move at least as much as yours, never had any of the issues you're having. Not a single broken piece on any of them.
> 
> I treat my tools for what they are----tools I don't baby them.
> 
> None of the above is a criticism in any way, just bewilderment on my part.
> 
> I hate the dust also, that's why I have all the CT's I have. Need a few more because I hate swapping cords and hoses.
> 
> Tom


Not the packing. Everything has nook / home in my truck. Nothing fall's or moves. Don't know. Don't care. Send it back on Mon. The real chit of it all the down time if a week. At least with HILTI I walk in and walk out. tools are returned with 24hrs. I wish they had more wood working tools like back in the day from what I understand. Or at least offer the Euro lines here. There all DC set up. Even have there own of brand tracks that festi. The commercial Union out fits cry OSHA and OSHA that and still tuck point in busy down town streets over packed side walks. HILTI leases all there tool to Union outfits for the span of job. Unions don't require anything but tool belts. All else is on the project manager outfits.


----------



## tjbnwi

I hope it works out and you get it back in a week.

As you know I cut anything with my TS saws. I had the 36 AC connected to an Abortech AS 170 to clear out hundreds of feet of mortar. Biggest issue was I forgot to stop and empty it before it got so heavy I couldn't move it. It's still going strong. 

Tom


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

tjbnwi said:


> I hope it works out and you get it back in a week.
> 
> As you know I cut anything with my TS saws. I had the 36 AC connected to an Abortech AS 170 to clear out hundreds of feet of mortar. Biggest issue was I forgot to stop and empty it before it got so heavy I couldn't move it. It's still going strong.
> 
> Tom


My god that thing gets heavy fast. . I didn't know ou had an abortech. Dam Tom your just rolling in tools. When I 1st the AC 36 we put it work on 500sf tuck point then sanded the off unchipped Plaster. I think we filled 35-40 of the liner's. That thing ran for a week straight. How do you like the abortech compared to grinder.


----------



## tjbnwi

CITY DECKS INC said:


> My god that thing gets heavy fast. . I didn't know ou had an abortech. Dam Tom your just rolling in tools. When I 1st the AC 36 we put it work on 500sf tuck point then sanded the off unchipped Plaster. I think we filled 35-40 of the liner's. That thing ran for a week straight. How do you like the abortech compared to grinder.


That's what happens when you do general remodeling.

The Abortech was the tool for the job. Had to remove bricks for toothing and cut some openings in. It allowed me to precisely do both. 

The Abortech is slower than a grinder if you just had to partial clear the joint for a tuck point, faster if you're removing brick. I went through 3 sets of blades. 

Ran the CT full once, had to use a coffee can to bail the mortar out of the CT. 

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> That's what happens when you do general remodeling.
> 
> The Abortech was the tool for the job. Had to remove bricks for toothing and cut some openings in. It allowed me to precisely do both.
> 
> The Abortech is slower than a grinder if you just had to partial clear the joint for a tuck point, faster if you're removing brick. I went through 3 sets of blades.
> 
> Ran the CT full once, had to use a coffee can to bail the mortar out of the CT.
> 
> Tom













I've gotten my 26 pretty full too. Packed the 27mm hose about halfway full too.


----------



## tjbnwi

Done that.

Worse was bricking the old 22's and 33'. They had paper bags that tore when you tried to remove them. 

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> Done that.
> 
> Worse was bricking the old 22's and 33'. They had paper bags that tore when you tried to remove them.
> 
> Tom




I'm loving these fleece bags. They're so much tougher than the paper bags I would use on my ridgid. They do a great job of keeping the filter clean too. I finally banged mine out for the first time in over two years the other day.


----------



## StrongTower

tjbnwi said:


> Done that.
> 
> Worse was bricking the old 22's and 33'. They had paper bags that tore when you tried to remove them.
> 
> Tom




I've actually has the paper bags blow on me in my 22. Such a mess


----------



## AustinDB

Anyone have an idea for a latch I can incorporate with my van shelves? 










I have angle that I was going to install for each Sys with an inch between boxes, but could never come up with a way to secure each box. 

An ideal solution would be spring loaded so if one of the guys slides a box into its spot the latch has to reset. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Something like this? Install it with the tapper away from the Systainers.

http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/vi...s-truck-hardware-latch-bolts/long-latch-bolt?

Tom


----------



## drywaldepot16

*festool sander*

we just started stocking the festool sander at drywall tool depot

drywall tool depot .com


----------



## asevereid

drywaldepot16 said:


> we just started stocking the festool sander at drywall tool depot
> 
> drywall tool depot .com


I'm sorry... Was that, dry wall depot? 
Just wanted to confirm...


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

drywaldepot16 said:


> we just started stocking the festool sander at drywall tool depot
> 
> drywall tool depot .com


Which one are you stocking? Offering any discounts?

Just thought I'd get a couple stupid questions in before... well you'll see.


----------



## Deckhead

drywaldepot16 said:


> we just started stocking the festool sander at drywall tool depot
> 
> drywall tool depot .com


So you're a paint supplier?


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Just ordered this as back up. At 400 with AC and tool plug you really can't beat it or maybe I can. Should be in by tomorrow or Wed for sure if missed cut off. 
AC 36 got dropped off at UPS tonight. Let's see what they come up with. Thank God I kept my kapex box. Just sent the top back. My main Lumber yard is a festi dealer now. I could of on my delivery tomorrow and they would of taken care of the whole thing. Good to know for the next break.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

If I keep the Bosch I'll make a mini platform to stack up sys.


----------



## john5mt

Just ran into these on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...title_srh_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WO0LWTFI0BL8

anyone tried one yet?

I am still looking for that blade that can cut softwoods on a kapex like a cheap diablo can. (no splintering on either side)


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

Check out oshlum blade's. Great value.


----------



## charimon

CITY DECKS INC said:


> If I keep the Bosch I'll make a mini platform to stack up sys.


someone needs to make a"L box" to systainer adapter


----------



## Justin Huisenga

john5mt said:


> Just ran into these on Amazon
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...title_srh_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WO0LWTFI0BL8
> 
> anyone tried one yet?
> 
> I am still looking for that blade that can cut softwoods on a kapex like a cheap diablo can. (no splintering on either side)


I have a couple for my 75. Edge holds up better than the Festool/Leitz blades in my applications. I own a few of various grinds for miter and table saws and based on carbide size and edge life they represent a good value at the price point. The plate quality blows anything Freud make away.


----------



## CITY DECKS INC

charimon said:


> someone needs to make a"L box" to systainer adapter


My ocd won't let me not work on this. Also have access to 3d printers from the size of your hand to a vw.


----------



## Calidecks

CITY DECKS INC said:


> My ocd won't let me not work on this. Also have access to 3d printers from the size of your hand to a vw.


Cool I'll take a kss300 next time your around that printer. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Deckhead

Californiadecks said:


> Cool I'll take a kss300 next time your around that printer. Thanks in advance!


Start a mafell thread. I really want their jigsaw. I'd look like a dildo starting the thread without owning any of their stuff.

Of course, I have been known to look slick and rubbery with a big head before:whistling

Kss is sweet too. Cant spend the extra 300 on the tracksaw without the depth. I'm really starting to dig the mafell stuff though.


----------



## Calidecks

Deckhead said:


> Start a mafell thread. I really want their jigsaw. I'd look like a dildo starting the thread without owning any of their stuff.
> 
> Of course, I have been known to look slick and rubbery with a big head before:whistling
> 
> Kss is sweet too. Cant spend the extra 300 on the tracksaw without the depth. I'm really starting to dig the mafell stuff though.


Done!


----------



## kixnbux

Tool Nut running 15% off dust extractors. Excludes the new CT-SYS though. Might be time for me to add a CT 26


----------



## tjbnwi

Festool is running the promo-it starts May 1st. The CT's and accessories will be 15% off at any dealer. 

Time to get a 48 for the shop.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

tjbnwi said:


> Festool is running the promo-it starts May 1st. The CT's and accessories will be 15% off at any dealer.
> 
> Time to get a 48 for the shop.
> 
> Tom




Thanks! Sorry I just saw the email this morning. That's a good deal actually


----------



## brhokel606

Damn it! Might have to pick up the AC36 now! You rarely see a sale like that on Festool stuff, so I don't think I can pass it up. Get that and the turbo brush....that would make 3 extractors but I have completely stopped using my shopvacs I love the extractors so much.

Want the AC36 to use with my porter cable drywall sander, can't afford the planex yet.


----------



## Juan80

A new midi may be in my future. 
$80 plus is the savings. A festool sale ? What's this world coming to ?

Actually I bought my Ts 75 on a recon sale,looked brand new.
Charlie


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> Festool road show is in our town next Tuesday, are you part of that? Or what brings you to Colo?


The Road Show is there the following Tuesday, the 17th.

No, not affiliated with Festool in any way. I don't even get free t-shirts from them.

Oldest daughter lives in Highlands Ranch. Just purchased another home, have a daddy do list on to start on (her husband is not a DIY type of guy, his work takes to much of his time). My wife is going on a shopping spree for the twins Kelly is having. You guys think this sh!ts expensive...

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Go to the road show and try out the sanders, pick the on that works best for you.

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

tjbnwi said:


> Go to the road show and try out the sanders, pick the on that works best for you.
> 
> Tom


Don't know if I can wait that long! The urge to spend has overtaken my common sense:laughing:

I didn't spend much on tools last year, and this year I feel like springing for the festool stuff that I'd been eyeballing for years now. 

I worked in Highlands Ranch in the early to mid 90s when it was just getting started. That's a different universe down there these days. I get lost driving around there. Places that we used to ride horses are covered with homes, and I get lost anytime I venture off the Interstate in that area. Which isn't too often anymore.


----------



## tjbnwi

Get the ETS EC 125, hard pad and paper.

Tom


----------



## john5mt

StrongTower said:


> Has anyone had problems with their fences on the kapex? I pulled one side out for some big base, tried to put it back in and it was all tore up and rough. They've always slid so smoothly and I haven't had a problem before. Doesn't seem bent, thing just started doing it out of the blue.
> 
> 
> Service Exceeding Expectation


I did, sent it in and they replaced the whole thing. I works decent but this one is a little sticky too. I try and lube it and it helped a bit


----------



## Lettusbee

And now it's time to get to work.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Did you go with the 150?


----------



## Lettusbee

125
I imagine I'll be adding more later
Now that I've got the vacuum out of the way (Er, extractor), I'll be more inclined to add sanders to the fleet.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Lettusbee said:


> 125
> I imagine I'll be adding more later


looks big in the picture. But then I look big in pictures as well :laughing:


----------



## Mort

The camera adds 25mm.


----------



## country_huck

I know we have discussed this on a few occasions but I'm not going to lie since I wasn't in the market at the time I didn't pay attention. 

I am in need of some after market saw blades for my festool kapex and track saw. 

I mean the festool blades are ok, I just don't think they keep an edge like some of the other blades I have used. 

So what are people using for there stuff.


----------



## gbruzze1

I like the Oshlun festo series blades


Gary


----------



## StrongTower

I've found that Tenryu's blades are nice, I've also rebored some of my favorites from my old 10" slider. 


Service Exceeding Expectation


----------



## brhokel606

Happy Day!!! I think I am in love with the UPS driver!


----------



## brhokel606

I fricken love the systainer! I will be ordering more soon


----------



## brhokel606

Switched out the attic lid systainer onto the combo systainer, its perfect now


----------



## Deckhead

country_huck said:


> I know we have discussed this on a few occasions but I'm not going to lie since I wasn't in the market at the time I didn't pay attention.
> 
> I am in need of some after market saw blades for my festool kapex and track saw.
> 
> I mean the festool blades are ok, I just don't think they keep an edge like some of the other blades I have used.
> 
> So what are people using for there stuff.


Tenryu is a good blade for my ts75. I ripped a bunch of wenge (10/4) and it still cut well for another month, but when it went, it completely went. I have a CMT for the Kapex that I'm not thrilled with but for the price it works while the other 2 Leitz blades are getting sharpened. 

Check out Guhdo gmax blades, same parent company makes beam saw blades and when I used the 100tooth in my regular 12" saw I was thoroughly impressed. I've been meaning to buy one for my kapex and just haven't yet. Cost to cut ratio is very solid.

Also a big thing with the leitz(festool) blades is clean them up with some cmt blade cleaner and you might find they're not as dull as you think. I always spray them with bladecoat when I take the wax off them. For the blade cleaner just use the top of the lid of a drywall bucket to let them soak a few minutes and bam, usually the blade is much Better than you thought.


----------



## Deckhead

brhokel606 said:


> I fricken love the systainer! I will be ordering more soon


I got a 12 drawer sortainer and 4 drawer I hate. They just sit in the shop now. I'm not a big systainer fan myself. Great for their tools but too brittle overall the price.


----------



## CrpntrFrk

So..........you're letting em go real cheap right?


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Deckhead said:


> I got a 12 drawer sortainer and 4 drawer I hate. They just sit in the shop now. I'm not a big systainer fan myself. Great for their tools but too brittle overall the price.


I want those Sortainers.

Give em up easy..... and nobody will get hurt.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> I sliced a finger open the first time I tried to take one out of the case.
> 
> Tom


So you get to Colorado and the first thing you do is get on CT? What are we going to do with you? :laughing:


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> So you get to Colorado and the first thing you do is get on CT? What are we going to do with you? :laughing:


Second thing----first things was give my daughter a hug. 

Beautiful area by the way. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

So now that you’ve had your family time, what are we going to do?


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> So now that you’ve had your family time, what are we going to do?


Fix a roof, install a vent fan, repair the deck rail, kill wasps and install the bay joist cover thats fallen off, repair and paint exterior trim, install motion lights......that's on the new place. Head over to their other place and repair stuff there. 

Unless you have a better suggestion:whistling

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

What time do you get started? I’ll bring moral support :laughing:


----------



## Lettusbee

I'll be cheering for you from up North:clap:


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> What time do you get started? I’ll bring moral support :laughing:


An hour and a half ago. 

Bring a 2700 or 3000 guide rail also

Tom


----------



## duburban

tjbnwi said:


> That's how you check and set the toe.
> 
> I have multiple saws so I made a fixture so all I do is---loosen the screws drop the saw on it, plunge the blade, tighten the screws. It sets the toe and matches the saws at the same time.
> 
> Tom


if you could snap a pic of this jig i'd love to see it, i only have 2 track saws but i like consistency!


----------



## Sisyphus

tjbnwi said:


> Fix a roof, install a vent fan, repair the deck rail, kill wasps and install the bay joist cover thats fallen off, repair and paint exterior trim, install motion lights......that's on the new place. Head over to their other place and repair stuff there.
> 
> Unless you have a better suggestion:whistling
> 
> Tom


Just like one of my "vacations".


----------



## Inner10

DaVinciRemodel said:


> What time do you get started? I’ll bring moral support :laughing:


Better bring a case of beer to go with that moral support.


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> Better bring a case of beer to go with that moral support.


I hate beer. 

Paul, thanks for bringing the tracks and CT by today. I truly appreciate it. 

My wife asked when I'm returning your stuff, she wants to meet your dog. All she cares about after the talk about the buildings. 

Tom


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> I hate beer.
> 
> Paul, thanks for bringing the tracks and CT by today. I truly appreciate it.
> 
> My wife asked when I'm returning your stuff, she wants to meet your dog. All she cares about after the talk about the buildings.
> 
> Tom


Hate is a strong word...


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> Hate is a strong word...


Not strong enough for how I despise the taste of beer. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> I hate beer.
> 
> Paul, thanks for bringing the tracks and CT by today. I truly appreciate it.
> 
> My wife asked when I'm returning your stuff, she wants to meet your dog. All she cares about after the talk about the buildings.
> 
> Tom


No problem, it was good to finally meet you in person. I don’t think you need to ship tools out ahead next trip. I can probably get you what you need.

I did notice that you didn’t mention the VAC SYS, ETS EC Sander, Kapex, OF 1010 or CONTURO that you barrowed. I want those back too :lol:

As far as getting the stuff back, we’ll figure it out. We’re on a preventative maintenance today (11,000 SF house takes us about 7 hours to complete), My wife and I have an event to attend this evening and I have a walk through on a project tomorrow morning. I may just need to make arrangements with Kelly to get them sometime next week. I’ll call you later and we’ll figure it out.

I might be able to arrange it so that the dog can go home with you and dig up your yard :whistling


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Not strong enough for how I despise the taste of beer.
> 
> Tom


No one would drink it if it didn't have alcohol in it.


----------



## m1911

tjbnwi said:


> Not strong enough for how I despise the taste of beer.
> 
> Tom


You must have drank that domestic piss water they call beer.
I love German beer and a good wiesswurst


----------



## m1911

Dammit
Now I'm really hungry...


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> No one would drink it if it didn't have alcohol in it.


Sure they would that's why they make alcohol free beer.


----------



## J L

Inner10 said:


> Sure they would that's why they make alcohol free beer.



Do people actually drink that stuff? :blink:


----------



## m1911

J L said:


> Do people actually drink that stuff? :blink:


Yes, I have an uncle in Germany that buys alcohol free beer. I tried it, it's not bad.


----------



## aaron_a

I hate the gravity rise stand. Too big and moves too much. Sold mine and got a a dewalt folding stand

Dewalt is nice and compact. Takes up almost no space in the van

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckhead

aaron_a said:


> I hate the gravity rise stand. Too big and moves too much. Sold mine and got a a dewalt folding stand
> 
> Dewalt is nice and compact. Takes up almost no space in the van
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Heheyy you're in business, looks like a door in the back there:thumbup:

Now was it 3'-0"or 30":laughing:

(Just ****ing with you)


----------



## aaron_a

Deckhead said:


> Heheyy you're in business, looks like a door in the back there:thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Now was it 3'-0"or 30":laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> (Just ****ing with you)




****** deck head


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## country_huck

I use a dewalt set up for my kapex with some simple extensions I made. While it is easy to store it takes three trips to set up. And for the quick punch list type items is just way to much effort for my liking.


----------



## Calidecks

aaron_a said:


> I hate the gravity rise stand. Too big and moves too much. Sold mine and got a a dewalt folding stand
> 
> Dewalt is nice and compact. Takes up almost no space in the van
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I use the third hands because of the length of my wings. Probably why I don't get movement.


----------



## Calidecks

I certainly wouldn't buy a stand without wheels. Something you youngsters will eventually understand.


----------



## country_huck

Californiadecks said:


> I certainly wouldn't buy a stand without wheels. Something you youngsters will eventually understand.


I'm still pretty young in the grand scheme but I am a fast learner.


----------



## aaron_a

Californiadecks said:


> I certainly wouldn't buy a stand without wheels. Something you youngsters will eventually understand.




The wheels are useless to me. Takes up too much room with the saw stored on the stand 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Morning Wood

My current setup is Bosch saw with Trojan stand. It's a heavy setup. Not one I like to carry very far. I think what I'd like to have probably doesn't exist.


----------



## aaron_a

Morning Wood said:


> My current setup is Bosch saw with Trojan stand. It's a heavy setup. Not one I like to carry very far. I think what I'd like to have probably doesn't exist.


an autonomous robotic laser saw?


----------



## Deckhead

aaron_a said:


> an autonomous robotic laser saw?


No, an employee that works as hard as yourself:laughing:


----------



## aaron_a

Deckhead said:


> No, an employee that works as hard as yourself:laughing:


Probably have better luck finding the robot


----------



## Morning Wood

You know. The perfect setup.


----------



## m1911

Californiadecks said:


> I use the third hands because of the length of my wings. Probably why I don't get movement.


That's what she said...


----------



## Morning Wood

been eyeing up the Fast cap stand. It seems like a pretty good setup really, but I just don't see myself really being able to use it all the time. It's not like I just do siding or decks or something where I'm cutting all day long. I'm going to have to think about it. Probably give them a call. I could see going with their rails on a stand for sure. I would want a long rail though. Seems silly not to be able to cut something long repetitively.


----------



## brhokel606

I have the gravity rise, it works well but takes up alot of trailer real estate, sold my folding dewalt stand a couple of years ago and kind of kicking myself over that 1. I really like the fastcap setup, really want one but out of my price range at this time.


----------



## Calidecks

brhokel606 said:


> I have the gravity rise, it works well but takes up alot of trailer real estate, sold my folding dewalt stand a couple of years ago and kind of kicking myself over that 1. I really like the fastcap setup, really want one but out of my price range at this time.


The fastcap stand is bigger and heavier than the gravity rise stand.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I like the Festool UG stand. Nice and compact and portable.

Hate away... :whistling


----------



## CrpntrFrk

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I like the Festool UG stand. Nice and compact and portable.
> 
> Hate away... :whistling


Dick.....

Only cause you have one and I don't.


----------



## m1911

CrpntrFrk said:


> Dick.....
> 
> Only cause you have one and I don't.


I'm sorry to hear that you don't have a dick.


----------



## Deckhead

Californiadecks said:


> Everlast doesn't make a kapex blade.


They don't show they do but they are made about an hour south from me, pretty sure my machinery guy said they make one or could. They are fair in pricing too. Their website sucks


----------



## kixnbux

For a corner sander.... Between an RO 90 and a DTS 400, opinions? I do have an RO 125 already so not sure how big a benefit the 90 will be in that regard.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

I like my dx93


----------



## kixnbux

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I like my dx93




Looking for one that isn't in a combo with a vac at festools-online. I don't see it as a single item??


----------



## AustinDB

I can speak of the DTS400, but my experience with the RO90 has been great. I moved up from my Fein MM with delta attachment to the RO and project time went down considerably. It's paid for itself. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## StrongTower

DTS is a great little sander, if you don't have to take much out. 


Service Exceeding Expectation


----------



## Dan_Watson

kixnbux said:


> For a corner sander.... Between an RO 90 and a DTS 400, opinions? I do have an RO 125 already so not sure how big a benefit the 90 will be in that regard.


The RO 90 has been great to us.


----------



## kixnbux

Looks like a lot of RO 90 votes lol


----------



## Dan_Watson

72chevy4x4 said:


> I can speak of the DTS400, but my experience with the RO90 has been great. I moved up from my Fein MM with delta attachment to the RO and project time went down considerably. It's paid for itself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am positive every Festool I have purchased has paid for itself in the first job. The Kapex is a stretch, but the rest without a doubt.


----------



## kixnbux

Dan_Watson said:


> I am positive every Festool I have purchased has paid for itself in the first job. The Kapex is a stretch, but the rest without a doubt.




Agreed!!!! This will only be my third sander but I'm well on the way


----------



## Deckhead

Dan_Watson said:


> I am positive every Festool I have purchased has paid for itself in the first job. The Kapex is a stretch, but the rest without a doubt.


I'd tend to agree but am starting to think that I could have gone a little more expensive at times and been more pleased. 

Biggest failure for me has been the carvex, never paid for itself and is sitting idle because I haven't sent it back in to be replaced and this is after the blade guide on one side already broke.

I wouldn't balk at buying a festool sander though if I thought I needed another. They have been nothing short of amazing. Every single one of them has withstood tons of abuse on exotics and then some.


----------



## kixnbux

I don't have a festool jigsaw yet... Just using a dewalt 20v


----------



## Dan_Watson

I have been selective on the tools though. I doubt I will ever have a Festool drill or jig saw. 

Sanders, saws, the Domino, those make sense to me.

HKC is being pre-ordered. I have been struggling with it, still contemplating a KSS. Worried about the HKC power.


----------



## Deckhead

Dan_Watson said:


> I have been selective on the tools though. I doubt I will ever have a Festool drill or jig saw.
> 
> Sanders, saws, the Domino, those make sense to me.
> 
> HKC is being pre-ordered. I have been struggling with it, still contemplating a KSS. Worried about the HKC power.


I'm very up in the air and haven't decided on that or the kss. My worries are if I buy the kss and love it I'm going to have a new problem.:whistling


----------



## Deckhead

Dan_Watson said:


> I have been selective on the tools though. I doubt I will ever have a Festool drill or jig saw.
> 
> Sanders, saws, the Domino, those make sense to me.
> 
> HKC is being pre-ordered. I have been struggling with it, still contemplating a KSS. Worried about the HKC power.


I will say the cxs is way worth it too. The other drills I haven't jumped on but that little drill is the cats ass.


----------



## kixnbux

Deckhead said:


> I will say the cxs is way worth it too. The other drills I haven't jumped on but that little drill is the cats ass.




That's no joke! I use that thing every single day. I do have the PDC 18/4 also. As well as half a dozen 20v dewalt drills lol. I barely touch the dewalts anymore.


----------



## tjbnwi

If you're worried about power of the HKC order the HK instead. 

The drills are well worth it it me, corded Carvex not so much. The cordless Carvex performs great. 

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> If you're worried about power of the HKC order the HK instead.
> 
> The drills are well worth it it me, corded Carvex not so much. The cordless Carvex performs great.
> 
> Tom


Whenever I use a corded jigsaw I do expect a lot and made that mistake. With decent planning I will just put it on the bandsaw ahead of time and make light work of it. That's why its been dead in the shop, because I've forced myself to plan better.

I haven't tried the cordless carvex. I am thinking I'm going to give the kss60 a shot though because its big and beefy and then maybe start more into the festool line for battery stuff, mafell for the powered.


----------



## tjbnwi

Deckhead said:


> Whenever I use a corded jigsaw I do expect a lot and made that mistake. With decent planning I will just put it on the bandsaw ahead of time and make light work of it. That's why its been dead in the shop, because I've forced myself to plan better.
> 
> I haven't tried the cordless carvex. I am thinking I'm going to give the kss60 a shot though because its big and beefy and then maybe start more into the festool line for battery stuff, mafell for the powered.


I don't have a band saw, been looking but nothing yet.

I agree with everyone on the CXS, I gave away all my Bosch 10.8/12 volt Max drills swearing I'll never use a compact drill again. Then the CXS came along and I carry two with me. Amazing little drill. 

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> I don't have a band saw, been looking but nothing yet.
> 
> I agree with everyone on the CSX, I gave away all my Bosch 10.8/12 volt Max drills swearing I'll never use a compact drill again. Then the CXS came along and I carry two with me. Amazing little drill.
> 
> Tom


Out of the newish bandsaw's Jet has a nice little 3hp 16" I bought one and put a bimetal blade on it, resawed loads of sapele with it up to 12". Normally not a jet proponent of their newer stuff but for like 1800 it is a sweet little saw.

The worst thing about the cxs is that you forget you have it on and go and sit in the truck with it still hung on your shorts. A lot of power in a little drill, I own no 12V stuff.


----------



## AustinDB

Can't wrap my head around a carved and losing the portability of a M18 bc lugging around a cord cuts down productivity for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

72chevy4x4 said:


> Can't wrap my head around a carved and losing the portability of a M18 bc lugging around a cord cuts down productivity for me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's like cutting steak with a steak knife not a butter knife. That's why I use the Carvex. I have the corded version because I don't have any of the Festool drills other than the CXS and so I didn't want to have to deal with the batteries.

We still keep the M18 jigsaw and the trailer and I'll grab it for a quick cut that precision isn't as needed and such but it's nothing amazing.


----------



## kixnbux

Thinking I might grab a CT SYS too. Been thinking I have a lot of uses for one. Or maybe I see a tool I like then find a reason to need it


----------



## Inner10

kixnbux said:


> Thinking I might grab a CT SYS too. Been thinking I have a lot of uses for one. Or maybe I see a tool I like then find a reason to need it


It's great but for a carpenter the capacity is probably a problem.


----------



## kixnbux

Inner10 said:


> It's great but for a carpenter the capacity is probably a problem.




Most of the time I'll just run to do a couple doors or something and don't take the trailer. It'd be handy just to toss in the truck for a sander or a couple TS cuts etc.


----------



## brhokel606

I was planning on the HKC but my PC 7800 might have bit the dust today, which will really piss me off but might have to go to the Planex....then there goes my HKC money!


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

brhokel606 said:


> I was planning on the HKC but my PC 7800 might have bit the dust today, which will really piss me off but might have to go to the Planex....then there goes my HKC money!


There is nothing sad about owning a Planex. Unless of course you were wanting to use the money for the HKC. But there is still nothing sad about a Planex... :laughing:


----------



## overanalyze

The HKC really has my eye. Just want to try it first. Hoping to go to Connect and give it a whirl.


----------



## brhokel606

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> There is nothing sad about owning a Planex. Unless of course you were wanting to use the money for the HKC. But there is still nothing sad about a Planex... :laughing:


I know....but dang, I hate throwing out a tool that has worked hard for me for years and done well and then paying big bucks to upgrade. Especially when I want that HKC! I really hadn't budgeted to replace the PC yet....crap


----------



## CrpntrFrk

brhokel606 said:


> I know....but dang, I hate throwing out a tool that has worked hard for me for years and done well and then paying big bucks to upgrade. Especially when I want that HKC! I really hadn't budgeted to replace the PC yet....crap


That's tough man. On the bright side you're going to have a kick ass tool either way.


----------



## asevereid

So is the CXS is really the cats ass? 
I'm invested in the Milwaukee line and don't really (at this point) want to switch to another battery platform for another drill.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Love mine.


----------



## kixnbux

The Cxs is indeed the cats ass. I'm thinking about a second one actually


----------



## Philament

I bought the M12 fuel driil and impact, friend bought the cxs. Wish I would have bought the cxs even though I'm heavily invested in Milwaukee batteries.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I have a ton of Milwaukee stuff. The CXS is very much worth the extra battery line. It is our go to drill by far for what we do.


----------



## Shaneymack

I agree the cxs is amazing. I have the pdc 18 as well and find myself grabbing the cxs for most tasks. If you're investing in Festool drills, have a look at the installers bit sets. Everything you need in there- all centrotec. Its pretty sweet. 

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## GregB

Another vote for the CXS. For light finish work it is worth the extra battery system. If you hold it "right" and put your index finger along the drill body, using your second finger to pull the trigger, it becomes an extension of your hand.


----------



## asevereid

Thanks, I'll look into it... Christmas is coming soon 👍


----------



## Philament

GregB said:


> Another vote for the CXS. For light finish work it is worth the extra battery system. If you hold it "right" and put your index finger along the drill body, using your second finger to pull the trigger, it becomes an extension of your hand.


This is one of the reasons I love that drill so much. Starting out it was either pistol grip corded drill or the makita 9.6 drill, learned to hold a drill just as you describe. Then everything went T handle, which I've always hated. Having the force applied inline with the driver gives you so much more control. Impacts solve some of the shortcomings of the T handle design wanting to can out, but I don't want to be using an impact for small stuff.


----------



## Deckhead

So I just sent some pictures to the carpenterfreak of the sortainers. We're about to see if he's like BRG and embarrassed for me for how "unclean" they are. I actually cut stuff though, so my stuff tends to get dirty:whistling:laughing:

(and no I don't clip my fingernails either, they just refuse to grow:laughing


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

TimelessQuality said:


> Midi quit sucking today...


Pound on it, sit on it and kick it a bit. You can get some more in there :laughing:


----------



## overanalyze

I am loving the long life bag for my Midi! The inside is smooth and the dust just falls off. The pores clear up after a few taps on the side of the dumpster. I think it is even washable.


----------



## CrpntrFrk

TimelessQuality said:


> Midi quit sucking today...


The Midi dust brick!


----------



## StrongTower

At least the new self clean bags don't blow up...my CT22s old paper bags would get packed so tight and blow everywhere inside. 


Service Exceeding Expectation


----------



## Calidecks

There's extra room in the hose when the bag fills up. :laughing:


----------



## aaron_a

Been there too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kixnbux

aaron_a said:


> Been there too
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Geez! The suction on mine drops huge when the bag fills. It makes a solid brick but that's impressive


----------



## Tom M

TimelessQuality said:


> Midi quit sucking today...


Becareful Steve drug smuggling is illegal :whistling

:laughing:


----------



## aaron_a

kixnbux said:


> Geez! The suction on mine drops huge when the bag fills. It makes a solid brick but that's impressive




The 26 is a beast, I've filled up the hose before. The midi cuts out well before then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

aaron_a said:


> The 26 is a beast, I've filled up the hose before. The midi cuts out well before then.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My hose fills all the way on my midi when using the tracksaw.


----------



## BBuild

Over filling a long life bag will cause the top to pop off and makes one hell of a mess


----------



## aaron_a

BBuild said:


> Over filling a long life bag will cause the top to pop off and makes one hell of a mess
> 
> View attachment 332242




You win 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

When the dust starts blowing out the side of the TS I figure it's time to check the bag.

Tom


----------



## CrpntrFrk

Maybe you gents can answer something for me. Looking at the UG miter saw wings and the small MFT for my Kapex. Right now I sit it on my Keter table but want to upgrade to the setup I described. Question is, will the UG wings hook right up to the Kapex at the correct hight or are the UG wings only compatible with the UG stand? Thanks interweb homies


----------



## tjbnwi

CrpntrFrk said:


> Maybe you gents can answer something for me. Looking at the UG miter saw wings and the small MFT for my Kapex. Right now I sit it on my Keter table but want to upgrade to the setup I described. Question is, will the UG wings hook right up to the Kapex at the correct hight or are the UG wings only compatible with the UG stand? Thanks interweb homies


The combination works out to 900 mm, same height as on the UG. 

You're good with the set up.

Tom


----------



## CrpntrFrk

tjbnwi said:


> The combination works out to 900 mm, same height as on the UG.
> 
> You're good with the set up.
> 
> Tom


Thank you sir!


----------



## Calidecks

BBuild said:


> Over filling a long life bag will cause the top to pop off and makes one hell of a mess
> 
> View attachment 332242


Does it destroy the bag?


----------



## CrpntrFrk

Not full yet....but heavy mutha!


----------



## TimelessQuality

CrpntrFrk said:


> Not full yet....but heavy mutha!


What unit is that? 26? AC?


----------



## CrpntrFrk

TimelessQuality said:


> What unit is that? 26? AC?


CT36 AC. We were grinding concrete one day then doing shelving the next. I didn't want to dump the liner before it was full so I kept using it with no bag. Never had a problem.


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> Never had any of these issues. I have to drag my 2200's out from under a bench shelf and never have the handle at 90º when that is happening.
> 
> I've carried mine in warm and cold weather.
> 
> Tom


I'm not the only guy using them, and they get worked harder and more often I presume.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> I have 3 cracked boxes. Not from being abusive either. They are cheaply made.


Tlock style?


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> Tlock style?


Yep


----------



## Inner10

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> We always carry them with the T lock facing us. Other wise like Inner said, the handle can come off after enough times picking them up improperly. It wears down the nubs on the lid and you have to get a new lid.
> 
> I dropped a piece of PT joist 20' onto a Sys 2 and all it did was break the handle off. I stand on them when I'm lazy and need to stand on something and don't have a ladder handy. I weigh 190 lbs.
> 
> I've had more pieces break off the CT26 than anything else. That plastic is way too brittle.


I busted clean through a lid on one.

Two of my cracked ones were from them crashing to the ground when the handle gave out.


----------



## Calidecks

Is my opinion they are worth about 15 or 20 bucks then I wouldn't be so critical. Just buy new ones and write them off as a consumable.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I like them and keep buying them. I love the one hand operation. As silly as it sounds, dealing with two latches is annoying when one gets the job done.

We don't baby them and the issues we have had were all preventable and it's been a while since we have had any break.


----------



## kixnbux

No point in complaining about them. Buy and use or don't. It's simple. I've had zero issues with mine. They've been in spots where I figured they'd break and didn't so I'm impressed so far.


----------



## Builders Inc.

I'm actually off this weekend and the wife needed help cleaning the house. Yes we have a huge dog. Yes he sheds. It's about twice or three times a week we have to vacuum. I opted to help her but I used my ct26 shop vac. She hit the carpets while I hit the tile and furniture and flat surfaces. Then I went over the carpet again, WOW this thing is pulling stuff up that the Hoover missed. I love the way the house smells after the heap filter freshens the air. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Sisyphus

Builders Inc. said:


> I'm actually off this weekend and the wife needed help cleaning the house. Yes we have a huge dog. Yes he sheds.


Diet might help reduce the shedding. I added sardines and fish oil to an old Lab's diet and over 6 months his fur went from coarse to silky and the constant shedding stopped. The change was dramatic.


----------



## CrpntrFrk

Builders Inc. said:


> I'm actually off this weekend and the wife needed help cleaning the house. Yes we have a huge dog. Yes he sheds. It's about twice or three times a week we have to vacuum. I opted to help her but I used my ct26 shop vac. She hit the carpets while I hit the tile and furniture and flat surfaces. Then I went over the carpet again, WOW this thing is pulling stuff up that the Hoover missed. I love the way the house smells after the heap filter freshens the air.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've done this many of times with my MIDI. We have 2 labs.Great for fans too!






Sisyphus said:


> Diet might help reduce the shedding. I added sardines and fish oil to an old Lab's diet and over 6 months his fur went from coarse to silky and the constant shedding stopped. The change was dramatic.


Good to know!!


----------



## Inner10

kixnbux said:


> No point in complaining about them. Buy and use or don't. It's simple. I've had zero issues with mine. They've been in spots where I figured they'd break and didn't so I'm impressed so far.


If you manufactured them would you not want feedback?


----------



## Calidecks

I think it's important people on here get points of view from different angles.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> I think it's important people on here get points of view from different angles.


Yeah from guys who paid for it and used the hell out of it.


----------



## Tom M

Can you polish anything with the little ETS? Was wondering for a furniture table top or counter top.


----------



## kixnbux

Inner10 said:


> Yeah from guys who paid for it and used the hell out of it.




Did pay. Use daily. Would buy again. If that's not your opinion I won't lose sleep over it


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> Can you polish anything with the little ETS? Was wondering for a furniture table top or counter top.


ETS 125?

Would be slow, but it will polish using the proper steps.

Tom


----------



## JohnSawyer

*Nice!!!!*

This is IMPRESSIVE!!!! Thanks for Sharing! :thumbsup:


tjbnwi said:


> I have a CMS, just the "yankee" version. I want the saw insert, I think we need to talk.
> 
> Made this using just a Domino, Kapex and OF 1400 off this one jig.
> 
> Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

A little bit different use for an MFT.


----------



## Tom M

Thanks for the entertainment Travis


----------



## J L

Tom M said:


> Can you polish anything with the little ETS? Was wondering for a furniture table top or counter top.


I'll use it to sand up to about 1200 grit and then I'll hit it with a buffer.


----------



## overanalyze

Yeah the vac end is for the 27mm hoses I believe. This upgrades it to the newer locking style.


----------



## Deckhead

EricBrancard said:


> Ok, so I guess I'm leaning towards the HKC. When I think about it, my M18 Fuel 7 1/4 has basically replaced my corded circular saws. I haven't used one in months. It would seem like a step back to be tethered to a cord again if I'm going to be using the HK saw for tasks that I would have used my fuel for. On the other hand, cutting stringers definitely burns though batteries faster than just simple cross cuts.
> 
> Are the Festool 5.2AH packs good to go?


Yeah, the battery has been badass. I'm doing an exterior set of stairs from a seawall down to a beach in the next couple days. I'll let you know how it does but I'm betting one fully charged battery will cut all 4 stringers and still have some life left.


----------



## brhokel606

Philament said:


> It arrived. Not sure what the vacuum hose adapter is for yet. Hopefully it works fine with the standard 27mm. I'll be putting it to work tomorrow.


Very envious! Tried to order but was sold out!!! Still upset about it


----------



## Tylerwalker32

a


Philament said:


> It arrived. Not sure what the vacuum hose adapter is for yet. Hopefully it works fine with the standard 27mm. I'll be putting it to work tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 347377


i ordered mine day 2, I sure hope I'm gonna get one. My buddy ordered one first day and will be here tomorrow.


----------



## Deckhead

Got 1 sitting at machinery guy's place, the other one had to be put on backorder. Apparently they were gone pretty quick.


----------



## overanalyze

Got my ship notice for mine...will have it Thursday.


----------



## Philament

Ironically I ordered mine after the notice went out about lack of stock. I just think that not many people in my area bought one. Guy at the shop said it was the first one that has went out.


----------



## Inner10

Philament said:


> Ironically I ordered mine after the notice went out about lack of stock. I just think that not many people in my area bought one. Guy at the shop said it was the first one that has went out.


Mine says it's on it's way.

So you wanna buy a sander after I take the systainer? :laughing:


----------



## Philament

Inner10 said:


> Mine says it's on it's way.
> 
> So you wanna buy a sander after I take the systainer? :laughing:


I will counter your offer, by offering to let your new sander sleep side by side with my sander and any piece of wood I sand with it will have "Thanks Inner10" written on the back of it. Deal?

Just think of how lonely it's going to get, tucked away with your nail guns and stiletto hammer, never to see the light of day again.


----------



## Inner10

Philament said:


> I will counter your offer, by offering to let your new sander sleep side by side with my sander and any piece of wood I sand with it will have "Thanks Inner10" written on the back of it. Deal?
> 
> Just think of how lonely it's going to get, tucked away with your nail guns and stiletto hammer, never to see the light of day again.


Right beside your jackhammer.


----------



## Philament

In other news, I used the Pro 5 today smoothing out some preprimed flat stock. It's a decent little sander, about what you'd expect. No fancy anti vibration or anything, but it's nice and nimble for between coats. 

Attached the new vacuum end to the hose (Thanks for the info Overanalyzed) seems to have a real good engagement on the Pro 5, a bit more difficult to get on the domino, but that could just be because the rubber is new.


----------



## Philament

Inner10 said:


> Right beside your jackhammer.


I do like that jack hammer. It probably would be ceased up by now if I didn't use it. Lol.


----------



## sunkist

Deckhead said:


> Although I like Kimal, if you want to buy Festool I would get them from Glenco woodworking machinery because 1) I like the guy a lot and 2) him and his son have better customer support than any other company out there, in pretty much any business.
> 
> If you buy something tell them Rob sent you in there, and you want a glenco shirt. THey carry other blades too that fit festool so you have a little more selection than the overpriced mediocre leitz (festool) blades. Not to mention all the other machinery they have in the back. If you want I'll meet you up there.


Holy smokes i live on Lockwood and tallevast right by the greek church i never knew about Glenco.
How the hell i never heard of Glenco is beyond me i go to whitfield loop all the time, graingers, the a/c place, the flooring company, powder coaters and the guy who does metal finnishing, thank god walmart called today my new glasses are in
Rob when i have some time i will stop in and be sure to tell them you sent me :thumbsup:


----------



## Deckhead

sunkist said:


> Holy smokes i live on Lockwood and tallevast right by the greek church i never knew about Glenco.
> How the hell i never heard of Glenco is beyond me i go to whitfield loop all the time, graingers, the a/c place, the flooring company, powder coaters and the guy who does metal finnishing, thank god walmart called today my new glasses are in
> Rob when i have some time i will stop in and be sure to tell them you sent me :thumbsup:


Dave or Glen will be good to you. They don't do any marketing but are great family owned business and glen knows everything about anything about machines, he's like a local Darcy.

I used to hang out around the greek church years and years ago. Back when "The Lazy Lobster" was "The Lighthouse" and wings and things was the best wings in town.


----------



## tjbnwi

Deck and Sunkist (any of the other FL. people). 

Have you ever been to Hurricane Hole in/on Key West?

http://www.hurricaneholekeywest.com

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> Deck and Sunkist (any of the other FL. people).
> 
> Have you ever been to Hurricane Hole in/on Key West?
> 
> http://www.hurricaneholekeywest.com
> 
> Tom


Yep. Been to everywhere on Key West I think it was either their or at Sloppy Joes I saw one of the best stand up comics ever. Just a local fat dude who played a banjo.

They have a great courtyard thats awesome just to sit and people watch at. Spent a lot of my early 20's fishing, diving, and drinking in the keys.


----------



## tjbnwi

Deckhead said:


> Yep. Been to everywhere on Key West I think it was either their or at Sloppy Joes I saw one of the best stand up comics ever. Just a local fat dude who played a banjo.
> 
> They have a great courtyard thats awesome just to sit and people watch at. Spent a lot of my early 20's fishing, diving, and drinking in the keys.


I asked because the snot nosed kid who used to live across the street owns the place now (for the last 10-15 years I think). I know they redid the courtyard you're referring to. 

Long story how he got to the Keys (nothing nefarious), but it worked out well for him. 

For the record, he's always been a great kid/person.

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> I asked because the snot nosed kid who used to live across the street owns the place now (for the last 10-15 years I think). I know they redid the courtyard you're referring to.
> 
> Long story how he got to the Keys (nothing nefarious), but it worked out well for him.
> 
> For the record, he's always been a great kid/person.
> 
> Tom


He did a great job with the place then. 25 years or so ago I remember it being a chithole but didnt go to keywest back than much and mostly stayed on Marathon or Islamorada. They re-did everything in that area about 10-12 years ago and brought it all up to date. Kind of sad really because it had that old time island feel and now is that tourist feel.

Its great for business Im sure but part of the allure of the keys for a bunch of us natives was the old fishing florida the keys brought back. Its still fun, but lost its island swagger. COngrats to him but also he's an ahole:laughing: for taking away the keys I remember.


----------



## Calidecks

March 23rd!

Festool is in the process of manufacturing additional PRO 5 Sanders. So, you will definitely receive your $99 PRO 5 Sander with $50 voucher, as promised. Based on the schedule provided by Festool, we anticipate that your sander will ship on or around Thursday, March 23rd. Note that this is an estimated ship date and is subject to change.*


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> March 23rd!
> 
> Festool is in the process of manufacturing additional PRO 5 Sanders. So, you will definitely receive your $99 PRO 5 Sander with $50 voucher, as promised. Based on the schedule provided by Festool, we anticipate that your sander will ship on or around Thursday, March 23rd. Note that this is an estimated ship date and is subject to change.*


If you need one sooner you can borrow mine.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> If you need one sooner you can borrow mine.


I don't even really need one. But they finally dropped a tool down to a price that I thought they were valued at, so I bought one. Had it been 100 dollars instead of 99, I wouldn't have bought it.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> I don't even really need one. But they finally dropped a tool down to a price that I thought they were valued at, so I bought one. Had it been 100 dollars instead of 99, I wouldn't have bought it.


I did it for my CT street cred.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Californiadecks said:


> March 23rd!
> 
> Festool is in the process of manufacturing additional PRO 5 Sanders. So, you will definitely receive your $99 PRO 5 Sander with $50 voucher, as promised. Based on the schedule provided by Festool, we anticipate that your sander will ship on or around Thursday, March 23rd. Note that this is an estimated ship date and is subject to change.*


Mine will ship on Feb. 15th. :tt2:


----------



## Calidecks

Wouldn't it make sense to make a Kapex adapter to use any blade you wanted. Vs. Always needing to have blades bored that don't otherwise fit?


----------



## Home wood

I ordered a pro 5 ltd through KMS tools in a pre sale. Was supposed to be here November 1. Then I was told middle of November. Now I'm just told that Festool is the hold up and we don't know.
This was from my understanding a promo to show people that Festool is worth the money.
All I can say is wtf how can I tell if it's worth the money if you can't even get me the sander that I've bought. I have a planex a dts400 and a ct36ac and I love them.
But this has left a bad taste in my mouth. Guess the green kool aid is over rated.


----------



## StrongTower

I just want the voucher and systainer...


Service Exceeding Expectation


----------



## brhokel606

Home wood said:


> I ordered a pro 5 ltd through KMS tools in a pre sale. Was supposed to be here November 1. Then I was told middle of November. Now I'm just told that Festool is the hold up and we don't know.
> This was from my understanding a promo to show people that Festool is worth the money.
> All I can say is wtf how can I tell if it's worth the money if you can't even get me the sander that I've bought. I have a planex a dts400 and a ct36ac and I love them.
> But this has left a bad taste in my mouth. Guess the green kool aid is over rated.


The only problem is that Festool had no idea how wildly successful this promotion would be. That really isnt their fault


----------



## rrk

brhokel606 said:


> The only problem is that Festool had no idea how wildly successful this promotion would be. That really isnt their fault


I disagree, it is like selling crack to 20 year olds. They will get hooked and be back for more. That had to have known.

In the end it will be very profitable, just like a store has a sale.

They just underestimated by a lot, but some promotions guy is very happy


----------



## john5mt

Looky what I got












Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


----------



## StrongTower

Does anyone know why when I run a new style ETS sander it turns on other vacuums wirelessly? Not even on the same circuit. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## EricBrancard

strongtower said:


> does anyone know why when i run a new style ets sander it turns on other vacuums wirelessly? Not even on the same circuit.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iphone using tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> Does anyone know why when I run a new style ETS sander it turns on other vacuums wirelessly? Not even on the same circuit.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I never took you for a stoner, only explanation I have. ;-)

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

My partner keeps thinking it's the FBI wanting to get our employee because he's always on the up and up on conspiracy theories... . But in all seriousness, both my 6 inch and his 5 inch set off other plugged in vacs. Festool and a Fein. These are new construction tract homes, maybe the electrician has some funky wiring going on. Also I run my vacs and saws on separate circuits through an iVac auto switch, if that has anything to do with it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckhead

StrongTower said:


> My partner keeps thinking it's the FBI wanting to get our employee because he's always on the up and up on conspiracy theories... . But in all seriousness, both my 6 inch and his 5 inch set off other plugged in vacs. Festool and a Fein. These are new construction tract homes, maybe the electrician has some funky wiring going on. Also I run my vacs and saws on separate circuits through an iVac auto switch, if that has anything to do with it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Must be. I have mine on all day next to at least 2 CT's in the shop and it only turns the one on it's plugged into.


----------



## Lettusbee

EricBrancard said:


> View attachment 358249


I see that picture everywhere, with a hundred different captions. What is that from?


----------



## EricBrancard

Lettusbee said:


> I see that picture everywhere, with a hundred different captions. What is that from?


http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/ancient-aliens


----------



## Inner10

Lettusbee said:


> I see that picture everywhere, with a hundred different captions. What is that from?


Giorgio A. Tsoukalos

http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/ancient-aliens


----------



## EricBrancard

Must be an echo in here :laughing:


----------



## Lettusbee

And here it was I was expecting it to be a scene from some mtv stoner movie.


----------



## Home wood

Well still no pro5 for me. Can't even get a date or a reply as to when it may come.
Also waiting on a new top for my ct36ac.
Not impressed at all with Festool in this respect.
I paid for my sander in September when can I have my sander?
The store I bought through just keeps saying we don't have them yet we will ship it as soon as we get it. Festool didn't even reply to our emails.
If it wasn't such a deal on such a good product that I want and need I would cancel and never order another thing from Festool or the store.

Arrrg I'm pissed


----------



## overanalyze

We just sunk a bunch of money into a new trailer, upfitting it, and our new spray booth area...so I will sneak the HKC purchase in a little later this year...lol! 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckhead

overanalyze said:


> We just sunk a bunch of money into a new trailer, upfitting it, and our new spray booth area...so I will sneak the HKC purchase in a little later this year...lol!
> 
> Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


Very much worth the money. As far as value goes, it's silly how quick it pays for itself.

Mine might be for sale in the next 6 months because I'm thinking of going mafell.


----------



## overanalyze

Deckhead said:


> Very much worth the money. As far as value goes, it's silly how quick it pays for itself.
> 
> Mine might be for sale in the next 6 months because I'm thinking of going mafell.


Yeah that is another sticking point for me. I like the 40 from Mafell and the fact the cross cut guide and flexitrack all fit in the systainer. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


----------



## J L

Deckhead said:


> Mine might be for sale in the next 6 months because I'm thinking of going mafell.


I'm waiting :whistling:laughing:


----------



## Deckhead

J L said:


> I'm waiting :whistling:laughing:


You will be the first person I let know.


----------



## AustinDB

with the newer locking hose ends are they 'backwards compatible' as in will the twist ends work on the older compression ends? 

Which tools would it make the most sense to upgrade? Do the dust extractors have a conversion piece to upgrade the hose connection as well? 

any experience on decreased airflow or debris getting clogged in the line?


----------



## AustinDB

duplicate post...is there a way to delete this altogether?


----------



## EricBrancard

72chevy4x4 said:


> with the newer locking hose ends are they 'backwards compatible' as in will the twist ends work on the older compression ends?
> 
> Which tools would it make the most sense to upgrade? Do the dust extractors have a conversion piece to upgrade the hose connection as well?
> 
> any experience on decreased airflow or debris getting clogged in the line?


They are almost the same except for the channels cut into the end for the locking mechanism. The actual inside diameter is identical and the friction fit works the same.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Finally showed up!


----------



## Warren

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Finally showed up!


I got mine a couple weeks ago right after emailing them. So far I really like it.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Had a mirror frame to make (I mean remake :whistling) yesterday so it got about 10 minutes of use. Not sure if there’s any difference between it and the 125s we already have. Couldn’t resist the price though. 

I knew it had shipped because they emailed and asked me to write a review on it a week before I got it. :laughing:


----------



## Juan80

I'm still waiting,no notice or e-mail,but I expect one any day.
Obviously I didn't need it LOL
Charlie


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Had a mirror frame to make (I mean remake :whistling) yesterday so it got about 10 minutes of use. Not sure if there’s any difference between it and the 125s we already have. Couldn’t resist the price though.
> 
> I knew it had shipped because they emailed and asked me to write a review on it a week before I got it. :laughing:


I think it's an updated version which has minor difference's but probably hard to tell. I bought it because it's a nice sander for $100 and you get the voucher thrown in as well. Couldn't pass it up.


----------



## Calidecks

I'm due one March 23rd.

I don't sand anything. But for a hundy what the hey!


----------



## Mort

I had an ETS125 I bought for my 8-year-old daughter because my DeWalt made her arms tingle when she used it. If I'd know I was going to be moving away, I would've bought one of those Pro5s for myself.


----------



## charimon

here is how I have been getting longer life out of my festool vacuum filter bags.


----------



## Calidecks

charimon said:


> here is how I have been getting longer life out of my festool vacuum filter bags.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjOLPxNWluo




Here's what I do.


----------



## Mort

I made a comment on FOG about how I just take my Craftsman vac and shake it into the garbage outside. Holy moly, by their reactions you'd think I just dumped a tanker full of oil into a wildlife refuge.


----------



## brhokel606

Sorry, another update on the HKC55. 2 weeks again of using it daily and working it very hard! Best saw I have ever owned hands down! Cut down 28 14" wood TGI beams, wouldn't cut all the way through but flipped them over, eventhe 40'ers and finished the cut on the back side, fricken awesome. Used exclusively for 1600 square feet of 3/4" sub floor, had 2 connected rails and one single 55" rail. Absolutely amazing cutting, could set depth so I could cut straight off the stack of OSB and not move it all around to cut. Used plunge feature for obsticiales with depth stop, wow, seriously wow!

Threw on parallel guide for thin rip cuts, worked perfectly. I do want 1 more battery I think, had 2 times while making web fillers and squash blocks that I ran battery down before other charged but I was doing some serious cutting. Using dust bag with saw and works pretty good, have to empty alot but impressed. 

I all honesty, if the saw died from use tomorrow, I would order another immediately (I know theres a great warranty) but just saying it is that good. My problem I thought I had with the batteries was user error, yeah thanks Tom, I didn't realize they clicked in that hard into the charger. So once I took Tom's guidance, they work great. Buy this saw guys, I know the Mafell would be nice because track stores in systainer but I love that I can use all of my rails with this saw. Couldn't be more impressed with this saw!


----------



## Warren

Looks like the price increases $45 next month. I did pick one up to examine last week and it felt a bit awkward. I got that $50 voucher burning a hole in my pocket, and this saw seems to fit perfectly with what we do. 

We all know what this means...


----------



## Warren

Looks like the price increases $45 next month. I did pick one up to examine last week and it felt a bit awkward. I got that $50 voucher burning a hole in my pocket, and this saw seems to fit perfectly with what we do. 

We all know what this means...


----------



## J L

Warren said:


> Looks like the price increases $45 next month. I did pick one up to examine last week and it felt a bit awkward. I got that $50 voucher burning a hole in my pocket, and this saw seems to fit perfectly with what we do.
> 
> We all know what this means...


Just post a pic up when it arrives :laughing::laughing::thumbsup:


----------



## overanalyze

Warren said:


> Looks like the price increases $45 next month. I did pick one up to examine last week and it felt a bit awkward. I got that $50 voucher burning a hole in my pocket, and this saw seems to fit perfectly with what we do.
> 
> We all know what this means...


Man I am thinking the same thing...my only hold up is the lack of a 45 bevel cut but we do 12/12 roofs so very little and almost never to decks I am thinking that isn't a concern.


----------



## EricBrancard

Just buy the saw already!


----------



## Calidecks

They are perfect for decks. Perfect!

_________


----------



## Deckhead

EricBrancard said:


> Just buy the saw already!


I know right? It's 600 bucks and if you don't like it send it back. So what if it doesn't cut one thing, you got away without it and are now preventing yourself from being more productive because a "maybe" or a "what if".


----------



## Mort

Just keep one of those DeWalt blades handy in case you need to bevel a 45.


----------



## Warren

So, my final questions:

Does this saw work with other Festool and Makita rails?

I am thinking cordless over corded, as I think for us it will mostly be used for exterior finish, and I like the portability. Any thoughts on this?

How long does it take before using it feels more normal and less awkward?


----------



## EricBrancard

Warren said:


> So, my final questions:
> 
> Does this saw work with other Festool and Makita rails?
> 
> I am thinking cordless over corded, as I think for us it will mostly be used for exterior finish, and I like the portability. Any thoughts on this?
> 
> How long does it take before using it feels more normal and less awkward?


1) yes

2) cordless would be good. Like I've said before I will be buying a cordless to go with my corded. 

3) Day 2 maybe. It's my go-to so for most tasks now.


----------



## tjbnwi

Warren said:


> Looks like the price increases $45 next month. I did pick one up to examine last week and it felt a bit awkward. I got that $50 voucher burning a hole in my pocket, and this saw seems to fit perfectly with what we do.
> 
> We all know what this means...


The price increase reflects the new battery platform the saw will come with (backward compatible). The corded HK does not have a price increase. 

These are the model numbers for the HKC with the new battery platform;

HKC Basic: 201359
HKC Plus: 201371
HKC Set-FSK: 201374

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Warren, like Tom said, the new Airstream batteries are what will be shipping with the saw after April 3rd.

I'm planning to get it after the increase to get the new batteries. They are supposed to charge 60% faster than the current ones which would be useful for a cordless saw so you might never run out, even if you only have the two batteries.

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/airstream/


----------



## Warren

Looks like the new batteries charge faster, but are essentially gonna have the same run time. A new 5.2 airstream battery is listed as $50. So, if I just go with the current ones, I could add a battery later and end up with a third battery for $5 more.


----------



## J L

$50 isn't bad at all for an 18v battery.


----------



## overanalyze

But to charge faster don't they need the new airstream charger? 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

overanalyze said:


> But to charge faster don't they need the new airstream charger?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk




Yes. I would assume that in a set with a battery or two and a charger, the charger would be an airstream charger.


----------



## jmontgom

Can you order the set with airstream batteries and charger now and avoid price hike? Says they ship April 2nd.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaron_a

Been doing a lot more drywall lately, so I picked up the drywall gun at the end of the year. Really like it so far. Makes hanging so much easier. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

jmontgom said:


> Can you order the set with airstream batteries and charger now and avoid price hike? Says they ship April 2nd.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The new numbers do not come up in a search of Tool Nuts price comparison chart. I'd suggest calling a dealer.

http://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-price-increase-2017.html

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

It's confusing on their website. 

http://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-201374-hkc-55-cordless-track-saw-plus-fsk.html

http://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-564626-hkc-55-cordless-track-saw-plus-fsk.html

I think the price with airstream is $735.00 before and after April 3rd?


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> It's confusing on their website.
> 
> http://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-201374-hkc-55-cordless-track-saw-plus-fsk.html
> 
> http://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-564626-hkc-55-cordless-track-saw-plus-fsk.html
> 
> I think the price with airstream is $735.00 before and after April 3rd?


That is correct, the Airstream will not ship until April 3rd.

The non-airstream will not be available after April 3rd from what I can figure out.

Tom


----------



## brhokel606

tjbnwi said:


> Add a couple of interface pads too the order. They will make the learning curve easier. They also reduce dust extraction very, very slightly. (Use just one pad at a time, a couple are handy to have on hand)
> 
> Once you get the hang of the unit you can use it without the interface. Be careful once you remove the pad, you can over sand a seam in half a heart beat.
> 
> Tom


Is it really that different than the Porter Cable drywall sander? I have numerous hours on that thing, in fact today was the deciding factor of ditching it.


----------



## brhokel606

Here's what I was sanding today. The commerical office addition , this is the exterior that faces into the plant. 2 floors of drywall to install yet, about 4800 square feet and that's not counting it all has to be double 5/8 on both side for the 2 hour fire barrier. This exterior already has the double layers of 5/8 and spray foam insulation to cut down on noise should be sprayed on all ways, even interior Monday! 

My guy is standing there to scale the size of it, lol


----------



## tjbnwi

brhokel606 said:


> Is it really that different than the Porter Cable drywall sander? I have numerous hours on that thing, in fact today was the deciding factor of ditching it.


I've never used the Porter Cable, have no clue how different it may be. 

I do know when I first started using it I was disappointed in the unit, nothing wrong with the unit it was me. I was over sanding everything. 

Speed and suction control is on the handle. 

Not sure what paper you ordered but I hope is was 220. 

I still have the Brilliant 2 paper for mine, I find it less aggressive/sharp than the Granat (on other tools). 

I got the interface pads to sand popcorn ceilings after I figured the damn thing out. Wish I would have had them to learn with.

If you do a lot of ceilings the harness is a big help---again after you figure the damn thing out:blink:

Tom


----------



## shanetoolnut

More aggressive than the PC sander. Like Tom said, usually even with a high grit you'll find that you're moving along very quickly because it can really motor through some drywall mud.


----------



## brhokel606

Well yesterday and today were good days! Got the Planex along with sandpaper and other small things. The interface pad was out of stock but shipped and the Planex hose shipped today....that sucks bad though. Really needed to use Planex this weekend:sad:

So mid next week the Planex hose and interface pad should be here. A bit disappointed in Festoolproducts, bought a lot of stuff from them and really needed that hose. Oh well, it is what it is...I could have bought it from another company that had it in stock but didn't want orders between various places confusing me. 

Can't wait to try it out, I will be using the old rust bucket PC over the weekend:laughing:


----------



## overanalyze

Your regular hose will work...just won't lock on. Use that SOB...you will like it.


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Your regular hose will work...just won't lock on. Use that SOB...you will like it.


The regular 36 mm hose is pretty stiff, may not play well with the Planex, but worth a try.

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

Hey if I had a shiny new tool I would make due with a stiff hose...lol!


----------



## shanetoolnut

I show that your hose shipped today. Not sure if it will make it there by the weekend, based on UPS's map, I think it will likely be Monday. I can send you the tracking number if you didn't get it already. Just email/PM me.

When you ordered the hose, it was shown as out of stock with expected shipping in 5-7 days. It shipped in 5-7 days. Sorry that it was out of stock when you ordered and I can certainly understand your need to have it for a project. I hope we communicated the stock status adequately.

The interface pad also shipped, scheduled for delivery on Saturday.

Shane


----------



## brhokel606

shanetoolnut said:


> I show that your hose shipped today. Not sure if it will make it there by the weekend, based on UPS's map, I think it will likely be Monday. I can send you the tracking number if you didn't get it already. Just email/PM me.
> 
> When you ordered the hose, it was shown as out of stock with expected shipping in 5-7 days. It shipped in 5-7 days. Sorry that it was out of stock when you ordered and I can certainly understand your need to have it for a project. I hope we communicated the stock status adequately.
> 
> The interface pad also shipped, scheduled for delivery on Saturday.
> 
> Shane


Yeah i saw the hose was out of stock when I clicked for the order to be placed, was too excited about the new tools to notice it earlier. I could have bought somewhere else but wanted all from the same place. The communication about out of stock was my fault, but it was delayed over a weekend from even getting to you guys. Other than the phone fiasco, which you are aware of, all is good and I will purchase from Festoolproducts again, would feel better with a T-shirt, just kidding. 

Because we all know once you drink the green kool-aid, you are constantly thirsty for it!!!:laughing: I do like the notification system for shipping and very good contact overall, heck a return phone call for a after hours call I made to you guys, darn east coast time., that was cool.


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Hey if I had a shiny new tool I would make due with a stiff hose...lol!


He!!, use it without a hose, will make you appreciate the dust collection even more.

Tom


----------



## J L

So I was letting someone else use my midi while sanding decks on a boat. With the vac running, they managed to drop the hose in the water. I wasn't there when it happened so I don't know how much water was inside the machine but I do know the bag was soaked as was the filter. This was salt water. 

How screwed is the vac?


----------



## GregB

J L said:


> So I was letting someone else use my midi while sanding decks on a boat. With the vac running, they managed to drop the hose in the water. I wasn't there when it happened so I don't know how much water was inside the machine but I do know the bag was soaked as was the filter. This was salt water.
> 
> How screwed is the vac?


Done it 3 times now. Each time with the tool on it, twice with the trigger locked on, once with me still holding the tool . 

Tools and vac still working fine after a good flush with regular water and blowing out with air.
My Midi mostly lives in the engine room of a 65' wood yacht.


----------



## jmontgom

Just got home from JLC Live New England. Festool definitely has one of the best booths and a great swag bag. Got to take a look at the Hk and HKC. Will be ordering HKC real soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

J L said:


> So I was letting someone else use my midi while sanding decks on a boat. With the vac running, they managed to drop the hose in the water. I wasn't there when it happened so I don't know how much water was inside the machine but I do know the bag was soaked as was the filter. This was salt water.
> 
> How screwed is the vac?


Not at all. 

The CT's are designed to pick up water. There is a sensor in them 
that shuts the motor off when the tub gets filled.

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

Had some free time today on the job...










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Five_Star

*Festool Ct36AC vs Ct36*

Hi guys 

I purchased a used Ct36AC vac on Craigslist. It was a great deal that I couldn't pass up, the vac is great but now I'm just doubting my purchase because I don't do a lot of drywall sanding and mostly using my Ts75 and sanders with it. 
I do some drywall patches that require sometimes a lot of sanding which I have a hand held sander that connects to the vac. The reg shop vac filters get full to fast with the drywall dust so I figured this Ct Auto Clean will help with that and kill 2 birds with one stone.

My question for all the festool pros is if the Ct36 AC will function good for general Carpentry tasks and light drywall clean up without the planex or should I consider selling it and getting the reg Ct vac without the auto clean.

Just looking for some opinions and I know I can sell it and probably make money because festool is about to raise there prices in April. 

Thanks in advance


----------



## brhokel606

Five_Star said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I purchased a used Ct36AC vac on Craigslist. It was a great deal that I couldn't pass up, the vac is great but now I'm just doubting my purchase because I don't do a lot of drywall sanding and mostly using my Ts75 and sanders with it.
> I do some drywall patches that require sometimes a lot of sanding which I have a hand held sander that connects to the vac. The reg shop vac filters get full to fast with the drywall dust so I figured this Ct Auto Clean will help with that and kill 2 birds with one stone.
> 
> My question for all the festool pros is if the Ct36 AC will function good for general Carpentry tasks and light drywall clean up without the planex or should I consider selling it and getting the reg Ct vac without the auto clean.
> 
> Just looking for some opinions and I know I can sell it and probably make money because festool is about to raise there prices in April.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Keep it! Just don't need to use the auto clean feature all the time, it is a great vac. Keep that thing


----------



## overanalyze

The CT36 hose is great! Flexible and 35mm. It is a great vac for general cleanup. The plastic bags are great to empty and reuse if you don't need HEPA.


----------



## aaron_a

Yeah I use my 36ac all the time. While not in drywall duty, it's my general cleanup vac. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

aaron_a said:


> Yeah I use my 36ac all the time. While not in drywall duty, it's my general cleanup vac.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 
Mine stays under the Kapex..

That 36 is a big beast. (so vely heavy)

For me........Midi for general cleanup.

(And I was stupid and just got the regular 36 because it was in stock....right in my face....during a quick Woodcraft trip.
I want to punch myself every time I think of getting a Planex.)


----------



## brhokel606

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Mine stays under the Kapex..
> 
> That 36 is a big beast. (so vely heavy)
> 
> For me........Midi for general cleanup.
> 
> (And I was stupid and just got the regular 36 because it was in stock....right in my face....during a quick Woodcraft trip.
> I want to punch myself every time I think of getting a Planex.)


Yeah on the AC part but I am going to stay with the 26 for my new Planex. The good bags last awhile and really keep the HEPA filter clean. I just factor the bags in on the bid. Plus its a bit lighter to haul around. Right now I am drywalling from ground to 30' high, so throwing the 26 on the Skyjack is good, a half full 36 could be a bear.


----------



## brhokel606

My MIDI stays under my Kapex, I love how small it is.


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

brhokel606 said:


> Yeah on the AC part but I am going to stay with the 26 for my new Planex. The good bags last awhile and really keep the HEPA filter clean. I just factor the bags in on the bid. Plus its a bit lighter to haul around. Right now I am drywalling from ground to 30' high, so throwing the 26 on the Skyjack is good, a half full 36 could be a bear.


So you don't really HAVE to use an AC with the Planex....????

Yay!!!

(I haven't had any green stuff to buy for so long.
I need a fix.......(but I rarely need a Planex :sad


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

brhokel606 said:


> My MIDI stays under my Kapex, I love how small it is.


It would fill up too quickly for my tastes.

We bring in the 36, once......and it never fills up on one job (unless I'm running it on the CMS with the router too.)


----------



## brhokel606

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> It would fill up too quickly for my tastes.
> 
> We bring in the 36, once......and it never fills up on one job (unless I'm running it on the CMS with the router too.)


That is true.....hmmmm, well do I need a 36AC now for Planex? Then 26 under Kapex and MIDI for clean up???? 

More Kool-aid I guess:whistling


----------



## Five_Star

brhokel606 said:


> My MIDI stays under my Kapex, I love how small it is.


I have the midi but wanted something bigger because the bag fills up to quick with the TS75 and kapex.
The CT36AC was all I can find without buying a new one. I sold a Ct33 about 2 years ago and that was pretty bulky but size isn't really a factor for me, I was more concerned about it being a auto clean and using it for other things but Not the Planex.

Now that I started reading about the planex and seeing the pictures I might have to take a plunge into that🤢

Damn you festool

Damn you🤦*♂


----------



## brhokel606

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> So you don't really HAVE to use an AC with the Planex....????
> 
> Yay!!!
> 
> (I haven't had any green stuff to buy for so long.
> I need a fix.......(but I rarely need a Planex :sad


Not if you use the good bags. But you do have to get the hose that locks onto the Planex, usually comes with the AC


----------



## aaron_a

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> Mine stays under the Kapex..
> 
> 
> 
> That 36 is a big beast. (so vely heavy)
> 
> 
> 
> For me........Midi for general cleanup.
> 
> 
> 
> (And I was stupid and just got the regular 36 because it was in stock....right in my face....during a quick Woodcraft trip.
> 
> I want to punch myself every time I think of getting a Planex.)




I keep my 26 under the miter saw. MIDI gets all over the place, usually with the ts or something. 

Hate buying bags every day for the midi, so I use the vac with the easy to dump bags. I should just get a damned dust deputy, but then I'll want 3 and have no where to put them. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

aaron_a said:


> I keep my 26 under the miter saw. MIDI gets all over the place, usually with the ts or something.
> 
> Hate buying bags every day for the midi, so I use the vac with the easy to dump bags. I should just get a damned dust deputy, but then I'll want 3 and have no where to put them.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When we get back to my shop.....

I just suck the bags empty with my big Jet dust collector.

(I'm cheap when it comes to stuff like that. I'll suck em out 4 or 5 times till the cardboard starts to separate.)


----------



## aaron_a

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> When we get back to my shop.....
> 
> 
> 
> I just suck the bags empty with my big Jet dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> (I'm cheap when it comes to stuff like that. I'll suck em out 4 or 5 times till the cardboard starts to separate.)




I'd do that if I had a shop setup like that. I cut and tape the bottoms. That shiny duct tape works real well. Usually get 2 or 3 uses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

aaron_a said:


> I'd do that if I had a shop setup like that. I cut and tape the bottoms. That shiny duct tape works real well. Usually get 2 or 3 uses.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My "shop" is a feculent little chithole, with cracked and uneven concrete floors, a 100 year old cistern that we fish errant caulk tubes out of with a roller on a pole, not enough space to cut full sheets on the tablesaw without resting the back edge on the CMS (Good height match though), and mice that piss on my MDF and melamine tops and store corn in the legs of my UG wings (seriously....half a bushel came out when I set it up on a client's porch the other day).

Don't go gettin too jealous........yet. :laughing:


----------



## aaron_a

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> My "shop" is a feculent little chithole, with cracked and uneven concrete floors, a 100 year old cistern that we fish errant caulk tubes out of with a roller on a pole, not enough space to cut full sheets on the tablesaw without resting the back edge on the CMS (Good height match though), and mice that piss on my MDF and melamine tops and store corn in the legs of my UG wings (seriously....half a bushel came out when I set it up on a client's porch the other day).
> 
> 
> 
> Don't go gettin too jealous........yet. :laughing:




Mine is a two car garage with a lumpy and cracked concrete floor, no water and no heat. I almost rented something nicer last year, but then I decided to move. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Incase you didn't realize;

The 36AC top will fit on the 26 tub and vice versa. Turns the 26 into a 26AC.

Tom


----------



## Deckhead

BlueRidgeGreen said:


> My "shop" is a feculent little chithole, with cracked and uneven concrete floors, a 100 year old cistern that we fish errant caulk tubes out of with a roller on a pole, not enough space to cut full sheets on the tablesaw without resting the back edge on the CMS (Good height match though), and mice that piss on my MDF and melamine tops and store corn in the legs of my UG wings (seriously....half a bushel came out when I set it up on a client's porch the other day).
> 
> Don't go gettin too jealous........yet. :laughing:


Damn, you're making me feel good about my little 1600 sq ft place even though it sucks balls. About to get happy though....


----------



## john5mt

Sounds like my shop 20x28. Crap structure. Crap slab. Crap electrical. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom M

For those who use the midi for general clean up, what attachments are you using and are you leaving the larger hose connected?


----------



## J L

Tom M said:


> For those who use the midi for general clean up, what attachments are you using and are you leaving the larger hose connected?


I use the small cleaning kit in the sys 1 and use the smaller hose. The end of the hose will get plugged in occasion but it's easy to unclog.


----------



## Tom M

I didn't buy a kit, just a loose three piece I stick in the garage. Getting​ tired of squatting down and would like the floor brush if it works well enough. I don't have a lot of confidence in Floor brushes though


----------



## BlueRidgeGreen

Tom M said:


> For those who use the midi for general clean up, what attachments are you using and are you leaving the larger hose connected?


I use the small diameter hose (?? the one that came with it ??)

I got one of those sets.

Not the spendy metal one.

I think it is the Universal Cleaning Set.

Nice lightweight wand and the important attachments.
The get in the tight notches thingy (use only rarely).
The brush head thingy (I use the most).
The small head (hardly ever, maybe never used).

All I need.

176 clams for a seemingly minor bunch of plastic chit.
But hey....it has a green Festool logo on it (somewhere I think).


----------



## tjbnwi

Framed this over the weekend. 

Considered getting the HKC for it, alas I did not buy one. 

The weather sucked, hate being on a roof in the rain. 

I wondering if the difficulty I had with it (used someone else's) is because of my left-handedness. Any lefties using the HK saws? If so how comfortable are they to use for you?

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Framed this over the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Considered getting the HKC for it, alas I did not buy one.
> 
> 
> 
> The weather sucked, hate being on a roof in the rain.
> 
> 
> 
> I wondering if the difficulty I had with it (used someone else's) is because of my left-handedness. Any lefties using the HK saws? If so how comfortable are they to use for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




I'm left handed. It's a little awkward, but as you know we have to find a way. Also I have a helper at all times. So I rarely need to hold the peice I cut. But when I do it's just a matter of working it out.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> I'm left handed. It's a little awkward, but as you know we have to find a way. Also I have a helper at all times. So I rarely need to hold the peice I cut. But when I do it's just a matter of working it out.


Thanks Mike.

This will have to wait before I give it another go, just bought 5K worth of sprayers. 

Tom


----------



## gbruzze1

overanalyze said:


> Well the HKC is ordered...FestoolProducts (ToolNut) showed they were out of stock online but a quick phone call said they had one left. We have a covered porch to build and are stick framing the roof so it will get skme initial testing right away.




I'd like to see how you do this. I can't imagine it being faster then a swing table, or chain saw equipped with a fence. But those tools are one trick ponies, so may not make sense to buy them for 1 room, as opposed to the HK that can be used for several things. 

Please keep us posted on how it goes, maybe some pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Warren

gbruzze1 said:


> I'd like to see how you do this. I can't imagine it being faster then a swing table, or chain saw equipped with a fence. But those tools are one trick ponies, so may not make sense to buy them for 1 room, as opposed to the HK that can be used for several things.
> 
> Please keep us posted on how it goes, maybe some pics?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Even though we do a lot of framing, I would likely not use the hkc for that. We do a lot of pvc trim. They come in 18' pieces and are awkward to maneuver back and forth to the slide saw. I envision taking the hkc right to the pile, and cutting the piece there. I could also take it up in the lift when fitting pieces, avoiding trips back to the saw for adjustments. 

Probably the only time I would use it framing would be for cutting stair stringers.


----------



## brhokel606

Warren said:


> Even though we do a lot of framing, I would likely not use the hkc for that. We do a lot of pvc trim. They come in 18' pieces and are awkward to maneuver back and forth to the slide saw. I envision taking the hkc right to the pile, and cutting the piece there. I could also take it up in the lift when fitting pieces, avoiding trips back to the saw for adjustments.
> 
> Probably the only time I would use it framing would be for cutting stair stringers.


I thought the samething about how often would I use it. But I now have the lumber stack close to where I am working and cut right on the lumber stack. No more using square with circular saw. I absolutely love the saw now and rarely use the miter saw for framing anymore. No more walking to the saw. It works great for wood i beams and also great for LVL's.


----------



## Warren

brhokel606 said:


> I thought the samething about how often would I use it. But I now have the lumber stack close to where I am working and cut right on the lumber stack. No more using square with circular saw. I absolutely love the saw now and rarely use the miter saw for framing anymore. No more walking to the saw. It works great for wood i beams and also great for LVL's.


We rarely use the miter saw when framing. I would always take the circ saw to the lumber pile and cut there. Too awkward to get big stuff up on the slide saw each time, and with decent skill, good results can be had without the miter saw. Finish is a different story. Those cuts need the precision that a circ saw just can provide. I do own the ts55 and will use that for many of the reverse cuts that the slide saw can't do. Never really considered using it off the pile, but I guess I could.


----------



## Inner10

Warren said:


> Even though we do a lot of framing, I would likely not use the hkc for that. We do a lot of pvc trim. They come in 18' pieces and are awkward to maneuver back and forth to the slide saw. I envision taking the hkc right to the pile, and cutting the piece there. I could also take it up in the lift when fitting pieces, avoiding trips back to the saw for adjustments.
> 
> Probably the only time I would use it framing would be for cutting stair stringers.


You can put it in the hands of the most ham fisted individual in the world and realize perfectly square cuts.


----------



## overanalyze

I am thinking the consistent repeatability of angle cuts for rafters will be a benefit. I know it is just "framing" but if it makes things better and a little faster it was a good purchase. Add in the multiple uses with decking and exterior finish trim and it adds more value...at least I am hoping.


----------



## shanetoolnut

All, just a friendly reminder that Festool has announced a price increase effective this coming Monday, 4/3. If there's something on your short list, you may want to snag it before then to save a little coin.

Also, the new Sys-Rock radio, Domino connectors and AirStream batteries start shipping next Monday. You can find details on all the new Festool wares here.

Shane


----------



## Tom M

So if you wanted to strip some paint off​ a door or stairs would you be fine with some coarse paper and a rotex125 ? The RAS looks good but likely too aggressive, leaving marks.

I still want a better cleaning set up on jobs. The midi works but thought of buying the trademan for a larger hose to lug around just for a floor attachment and extension wand is bugging me...and apparently wont work as well.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> So if you wanted to strip some paint off​ a door or stairs would you be fine with some coarse paper and a rotex125 ? The was looks good but likely too aggressive, leaving marks


If it is a veneer you'll most probably go right through it. Solids should not be an issue as you can sand them until you get a good surface.

If the Granat paper plugs, you either have the unit speed up to high, melting the paint or to fine of paper to start. 

I stripped to dye darken these doors had to be very careful with the 125. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

Used it a little yesterday. Used it as a cordless track saw and as the HKC. Hand position is a little awkward to me but not bad. I kept want to plunge it when using it as a track saw. Had to think about retracting the guard.


----------



## shanetoolnut

The guard should retract automatically as you make the cut. Try running the saw up the rail and you'll see what I mean.


----------



## Inner10

shanetoolnut said:


> The guard should retract automatically as you make the cut. Try running the saw up the rail and you'll see what I mean.


The guard retracts when you plunge with it?


----------



## brhokel606

Inner10 said:


> The guard retracts when you plunge with it?


Yes it does. It can be a bit awkward to figure out how to use the depth stop, but once you figure it out it is great. Matching it up to my tracks was a great decision and I haven't got out the TS55 since.


----------



## Inner10

brhokel606 said:


> Yes it does. It can be a bit awkward to figure out how to use the depth stop, but once you figure it out it is great. Matching it up to my tracks was a great decision and I haven't got out the TS55 since.


I have to retract it manually on my plebian fvcking Mafell.


----------



## brhokel606

Inner10 said:


> I have to retract it manually on my plebian fvcking Mafell.


It has a lever on the front that retracts the guard too.


----------



## Inner10

brhokel606 said:


> It has a lever on the front that retracts the guard too.


Yeah mine has that, but ya gotta pull it back before you lower it.


----------



## tjbnwi

Inner10 said:


> The guard retracts when you plunge with it?


It can be "one time plunged". What I mean is there is a lever on the top that allows you to set it to plunge. Once you plunge the saw the lever releases, the base stays in the "normal" position after the cut, unlike a TS where the base extends to guard the blade. 

Easier done than described. 

If you download the operating instructions from the website, the plunge lever is 1-8 in the diagram.

https://www.festool.com/Products/Pa...5-portable-circular-saw-HK-55-EBQ-Plus-FSK420

Tom


----------



## brhokel606

overanalyze said:


> Used it a little yesterday. Used it as a cordless track saw and as the HKC. Hand position is a little awkward to me but not bad. I kept want to plunge it when using it as a track saw. Had to think about retracting the guard.


Keep using it, was a bit awkward at first with the track on and I really prefer a left side saw, but I use it all the time now and wouldn't get rid of it for anything.


----------



## overanalyze

shanetoolnut said:


> The guard should retract automatically as you make the cut. Try running the saw up the rail and you'll see what I mean.


It does on the FSK track but not on the regular track if you start your cut in a bit...like you would with a regular tracksaw. I get how it operates..just a bit of a change.


----------



## Deckhead

Trust me, once you get used to it, there is no going back. I haven't touched a circular saw or the TS55 since. The 75 is still useful because depth of cut but the 55 is all but useless now.

A circular saw? Yeah right, never again. Even off the tracks its better than most circular saws.


----------



## Philament

Deckhead said:


> Trust me, once you get used to it, there is no going back. I haven't touched a circular saw or the TS55 since. The 75 is still useful because depth of cut but the 55 is all but useless now.
> 
> A circular saw? Yeah right, never again. Even off the tracks its better than most circular saws.


Were you a sidewinder or left blade saw guy before getting it?


----------



## shanetoolnut

Fair warning folks, Festool price increase comes on Monday. Today (Sunday, 4/2) is your last chance to buy at current 2016 prices.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

So yesterday I helped my wife print off 25 sheets of paper that needed to be cut in half for some handouts at an event she was going to today. The only thing we have to cut paper in half would be scissors and that wouldn't work too well and would take a long time.

So, I suggested using the TS55 and she said I was crazy and I said I wanted to try so she let me. I tested it on a stack of scrap first and it worked, so I did it on the good stack with no problems. It was pretty cool.


----------



## Deckhead

Philament said:


> Were you a sidewinder or left blade saw guy before getting it?


Sidewinder. Running a wormdrive would def take time to get used to the cross over.


----------



## tjbnwi

Used the TSC 55 to trim rake end roof shingles today. Snap line, set rail, make cut. 

Tom


----------



## Tom M

tjbnwi said:


> Used the TSC 55 to trim rake end roof shingles today. Snap line, set rail, make cut.
> 
> Tom


Did you really?? What blade cut it without gumming up to bade?


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> Did you really?? What blade cut it without gumming up to bade?


Yes, I really did. Debris collection was surprisingly good. 

48 tooth I had in the saw, set the speed to 4. 

I suck at roofing, this was the only bright spot of the entire process. 

Tom


----------



## Sisyphus

It's almost worth a new thread, "Things I cut with my tracksaw".

So what do we have so far? Wood/wood products, metal, gyproc, plaster & lath, paper, styrofoam, plastics, and asphalt(?) shingles. 

(BTW It's not OSHA approved for cutting live body parts.)


----------



## tjbnwi

Sisyphus said:


> It's almost worth a new thread, "Things I cut with my tracksaw".
> 
> So what do we have so far? Wood/wood products, metal, gyproc, plaster & lath, paper, styrofoam, plastics, and asphalt(?) shingles.
> 
> (BTW It's not OSHA approved for cutting live body parts.)


I'll attempt to cut anything I think it will cut with the blades I have on hand. If it is beyond the capability of the blades I have, I search for one that will work for next time. Placing the track at times can be interesting, between clamps, VHB, hot melt, screws, haven't found a place I couldn't get it to stay. 

Shingles were asphalt coated, fiberglass core.

Granite, marble and porcelain tile.....

Coretec Plus LVT (last week)...

I think track saws are one of the safest saws on the market, the base returns so quickly I think it would be difficult to cut yourself without a lot of effort and fore thought.

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

Got my SysRock. Sucker is loud. Gonna have to learn how to Bluetooth now.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk


----------



## Lettusbee

Lettusbee said:


> Got my SysRock. Sucker is loud. Gonna have to learn how to Bluetooth now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk


Forgot pic









Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom M

Would ordering guide rails over the internet to risky as far as damage goes?


----------



## Morning Wood

It's time for me to get a domino. Main use is going to be joining site built cabinet boxes and face frames. I'm thinking the smaller domino would be better for this, but that the large one is more useful overall. Any thoughts?


----------



## overanalyze

For cabinet work as the main use get the 500.


----------



## Deckhead

tjbnwi said:


> Yes, I really did. Debris collection was surprisingly good.
> 
> 48 tooth I had in the saw, set the speed to 4.
> 
> I suck at roofing, this was the only bright spot of the entire process.
> 
> Tom


Never fear Tom, everyone sucks at roofing. Some people just suck less.


----------



## Deckhead

Morning Wood said:


> It's time for me to get a domino. Main use is going to be joining site built cabinet boxes and face frames. I'm thinking the smaller domino would be better for this, but that the large one is more useful overall. Any thoughts?


I only own the 500 and don't do any cabinet work. The big one is useful only if you are doing really big stock. If you were going to do all your entry doors and thinking of replacing a horizontal bore than the 500 isn't for you. However for 90% of what I do the 8's are big enough. I would actually only use the bigger one for depth rather than thickness.

A 12mm domino is more glue surface than any dowel I've ever used. If it requires that I just go mortise and tenon.


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> It's time for me to get a domino. Main use is going to be joining site built cabinet boxes and face frames. I'm thinking the smaller domino would be better for this, but that the large one is more useful overall. Any thoughts?


Get the 500. There is a learning curve to it's use. 

Hold the unit firmly by the front handle, push from the rear while holding near the cord fitting.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> Would ordering guide rails over the internet to risky as far as damage goes?


Anything less than the 5000 should be fine. I have a couple of 3000's they arrived unscathed.

Tom


----------



## brhokel606

Tom M said:


> Would ordering guide rails over the internet to risky as far as damage goes?


I have 3, all have been internet ordered. Most companies package well.


----------



## shanetoolnut

Tom M said:


> Would ordering guide rails over the internet to risky as far as damage goes?


While we can't control what happens after we hand it to UPS, we rarely have pretzel rails primarily due to additional care and protection for the box. :thumbsup:


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

tjbnwi said:


> I think track saws are one of the safest saws on the market, the base returns so quickly I think it would be difficult to cut yourself without a lot of effort and fore thought.
> 
> Tom


Did I tell you about that time I cut my finger using the TS55? :whistling

You have to have a lot of stupid going on to do this though, I've got that covered. It was a few years ago, maybe I'm not as stupid now. :no: So it went like this...

I was cutting something and realized that the the clear guard wasn't all the down to my work piece for maximum dust extraction and so I pushed on it to lower it down to the work piece... while still cutting... :blink: 

Well, my finger slipped off the piece because it doesn't push well at an angle, and found itself getting cut by a 48T blade. It wasn't terrible, I've had worse injuries but yeah, it's possible, especially if you're stupid like me. :thumbup:


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> Would ordering guide rails over the internet to risky as far as damage goes?


I've had a few of the 3000's delivered by freight all have arrived un damaged, as well as all the other rails. I use Bob Marino who's up in your neck of the woods.


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Did I tell you about that time I cut my finger using the TS55? :whistling
> 
> You have to have a lot of stupid going on to do this though, I've got that covered. It was a few years ago, maybe I'm not as stupid now. :no: So it went like this...
> 
> I was cutting something and realized that the the clear guard wasn't all the down to my work piece for maximum dust extraction and so I pushed on it to lower it down to the work piece... while still cutting... :blink:
> 
> Well, my finger slipped off the piece because it doesn't push well at an angle, and found itself getting cut by a 48T blade. It wasn't terrible, I've had worse injuries but yeah, it's possible, especially if you're stupid like me. :thumbup:


Effort and fore thought....

Tom


----------



## Philament

Morning Wood said:


> It's time for me to get a domino. Main use is going to be joining site built cabinet boxes and face frames. I'm thinking the smaller domino would be better for this, but that the large one is more useful overall. Any thoughts?


I pained over this decision myself last year. The ergonomics of the DF-700 seemed better with the D-handle and I liked the idea of the mutiple pin guides on the front of the 700 better than the 500. The seneca adapters made it even more difficult because you can use the smaller dominoes with it. 

Ultimately, after handling the DF 700 multiple times in the store, I just couldn't see it working well on smaller rails and stiles because it's so big and bulky, so I went with the 500. Considering almost all of my work with it since then has been with 5mm dominoes, I feel I made the right choice.


----------



## shanetoolnut

If you decide to get the Domino XL, we have an adapter that will let you use the DF 500 cutters/bits on it. So, it gives you the versatility of having both machines essentially. Just do a search on our website for "Seneca". :thumbsup:


----------



## Lettusbee

Got my HKC with Airstream today:clap:


----------



## RobertCDF

Lettusbee said:


> Got my HKC with Airstream today:clap:


I'm getting pretty tempted by that thing. I'll probably sell off my TS55REQ and get the HKC as it'll work for what I actually use the TS55 for. I've got to get the new Makita saw first though.


----------



## BBuild

I asked the Festool rep at JLC Live about the Seneca adapter for the XL and he said a lot of guys are breaking bits with it.


----------



## shanetoolnut

BBuild said:


> I asked the Festool rep at JLC Live about the Seneca adapter for the XL and he said a lot of guys are breaking bits with it.


What do you expect them to say? :whistling

"Sure, we don't want you to buy both a DF 500 *and* a DF 700. We would rather you buy a third party's adapter for $70."

I've not heard reports of broken bits. I just did a quick Google search and found a thread on another forum where several people say that have never broken a bit using the Seneca adapter.

Not sure if I can link to another forum based on the rules here, but PM me and I'll share the link if you can't find it yourself.


----------



## duburban

shanetoolnut said:


> What do you expect them to say? :whistling
> 
> "Sure, we don't want you to buy both a DF 500 *and* a DF 700. We would rather you buy a third party's adapter for $70."
> 
> I've not heard reports of broken bits. I just did a quick Google search and found a thread on another forum where several people say that have never broken a bit using the Seneca adapter.
> 
> Not sure if I can link to another forum based on the rules here, but PM me and I'll share the link if you can't find it yourself.


Truth. 

Hows about CMT replacement domino cutters? Mixed reviews I've seen.


----------



## tjbnwi

duburban said:


> Truth.
> 
> Hows about CMT replacement domino cutters? Mixed reviews I've seen.


I've never broken a CMT cutter. Went through 14-5mm Festool cutters one month (Shane did warranty about half of them for me). 

Tom


----------



## duburban

tjbnwi said:


> I've never broken a CMT cutter. Went through 14-5mm Festool cutters one month (Shane did warranty about half of them for me).
> 
> Tom


Thats great, thanks. I'm still in architecture school, buying festool consumables is killing me.


----------



## aaron_a

Call me a sucker, but this sys lite duo is amazing. It was the talk of the job site last week. Ended up getting the painters in trouble too 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> Call me a sucker, but this sys lite duo is amazing. It was the talk of the job site last week. Ended up getting the painters in trouble too
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Love the Duo, switch or not....

You think this got the painters in trouble, you should see the inspection light they have. 

Tom


----------



## aaron_a

tjbnwi said:


> Love the Duo, switch or not....
> 
> 
> 
> You think this got the painters in trouble, you should see the inspection light they have.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




What's the inspection light? I have the older KAL and it's great, but this shows a lot more flaws. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

aaron_a said:


> What's the inspection light? I have the older KAL and it's great, but this shows a lot more flaws.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


https://www.festool.com/Products/Pa...=201937&name=STL-450-inspection-light-STL-450

I got to play with one. The way the light rakes the wall is interesting. 

Tom


----------



## Tom M

$435 on amazon for a light....brass ball Festool has plus increases brass balls 

I would say they are across the board 35 to 40% too high for their products. They are enjoying the popularity across the industry on the forums.


----------



## DLynch0009

I use the Midi on kitchen and bathroom renovations. Being as the midi was my first festool purchase I was hesitant to spend the extra money on the larger extractors. I kick myself looking back because the lack of cord management on the midi drives me nuts. Anyone have a solution on the midi to not have to jam the cord on top of the hose? Or am I going to be buying a larger vac soon?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

DLynch0009 said:


> I use the Midi on kitchen and bathroom renovations. Being as the midi was my first festool purchase I was hesitant to spend the extra money on the larger extractors. I kick myself looking back because the lack of cord management on the midi drives me nuts. Anyone have a solution on the midi to not have to jam the cord on top of the hose? Or am I going to be buying a larger vac soon?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk







Tom


----------



## Calidecks

DLynch0009 said:


> I use the Midi on kitchen and bathroom renovations. Being as the midi was my first festool purchase I was hesitant to spend the extra money on the larger extractors. I kick myself looking back because the lack of cord management on the midi drives me nuts. Anyone have a solution on the midi to not have to jam the cord on top of the hose? Or am I going to be buying a larger vac soon?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk




I use the Midi for my kapex, so the cord fits nicely as long as you store a 5' foot hose instead of the long one. The long hose travels in my sys 5 with my tracksaw.


----------



## DLynch0009

That video admittedly made me feel like a JO kind of. By the time im wrapping the hose and cord up I've been working for 9 or 10 hours and I may or may not be slightly agitated. I'll have to give that a shot, but I'd still love nothing more than to have some sort of cord management on the back of the vac.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

The.Handyman said:


> Rounded out my sander lineup. The DTS 400 did not get a price increase.


I love that tool , it gets in the corners very good.:thumbsup:


----------



## Juan80

DLynch0009 said:


> I use the Midi on kitchen and bathroom renovations. Being as the midi was my first festool purchase I was hesitant to spend the extra money on the larger extractors. I kick myself looking back because the lack of cord management on the midi drives me nuts. Anyone have a solution on the midi to not have to jam the cord on top of the hose? Or am I going to be buying a larger vac soon?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk




I have a sys 26 and while I like the vac,it gets heavy when even half full. When I was in my local Festool shop, the owner talked me out of a midi for a 26.
I think someone could get the cord wrap from a 26,and drill out the holes on a midi and install it? Might be worth a look.
I will be getting a midi to help with my on-site vac needs.
And maybe a sys-vac. Yep I have a problem.
Charlie




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## DLynch0009

Juan80 said:


> I have a sys 26 and while I like the vac,it gets heavy when even half full. When I was in my local Festool shop, the owner talked me out of a midi for a 26.
> I think someone could get the cord wrap from a 26,and drill out the holes on a midi and install it? Might be worth a look.
> I will be getting a midi to help with my on-site vac needs.
> And maybe a sys-vac. Yep I have a problem.
> Charlie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


To be honest when I'm not doing kitchen and baths I'm usually doing more in and out door and window jobs which the midi is perfect for size wise. I'll probably pick up a larger vac for the remodels this year at some point. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Inner10

DLynch0009 said:


> That video admittedly made me feel like a JO kind of. By the time im wrapping the hose and cord up I've been working for 9 or 10 hours and I may or may not be slightly agitated. I'll have to give that a shot, but I'd still love nothing more than to have some sort of cord management on the back of the vac.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


I wish it had a retractable cord, the hose is hard enough to fit in the garage let alone the power cord.


----------



## Calidecks

www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5YzIwK-g0E

_________


----------



## aaron_a

Californiadecks said:


> www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5YzIwK-g0E
> 
> _________




Way too much techno in that video 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

aaron_a said:


> Way too much techno in that video
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just drop a molly and it will be fine:blink: My buddy got those plans and every thing was in mm and too bad it's not in inches.


----------



## tjbnwi

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Just drop a molly and it will be fine:blink: My buddy got those plans and every thing was in mm and too bad it's not in inches.


They're available with inch dimensions when ordered.....

Tom


----------



## TaylorMadeAB

Juan80 said:


> I have a sys 26 and while I like the vac,it gets heavy when even half full. When I was in my local Festool shop, the owner talked me out of a midi for a 26.
> I think someone could get the cord wrap from a 26,and drill out the holes on a midi and install it? Might be worth a look.
> I will be getting a midi to help with my on-site vac needs.
> And maybe a sys-vac. Yep I have a problem.
> Charlie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro




I got the CT-SYS and I love it more than my children. The bag holds more than you'd think, and the suction is amazing. For one day jobs you can can't beat the portability. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juan80

TaylorMadeAB said:


> I got the CT-SYS and I love it more than my children. The bag holds more than you'd think, and the suction is amazing. For one day jobs you can can't beat the portability.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




That's what I was afraid of LOL
Charie


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## tjbnwi

Sisyphus said:


> It's almost worth a new thread, "Things I cut with my tracksaw".
> 
> So what do we have so far? Wood/wood products, metal, gyproc, plaster & lath, paper, styrofoam, plastics, and asphalt(?) shingles.
> 
> (BTW It's not OSHA approved for cutting live body parts.)


Vinyl siding. 

Tom


----------



## Tom M

Nice Tom.
I picked up the CMT blade in your recommendations for cement board and plaster. Going to try it soon.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> Nice Tom.
> I picked up the CMT blade in your recommendations for cement board and plaster. Going to try it soon.


Make sure you connect the TS to a CT.

Tom


----------



## Tom M

Absolutely. That's the perk


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Anyone have any experience with the LS 130 EQ – Plus? We’ve got a project coming that has about 80 raised panel cabinet doors/DFs and I’d love to find something to help minimize the hand sanding.


----------



## tjbnwi

Double post, see next one.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

If you have time to wait, I'm bringing mine with me. Be out there in a month.

If not contact Joe, see if he still has his for sale. Good price with a lot of accessories. 

http://festoolownersgroup.com/class...ander-extra-profile-pads/msg469696/#msg469696

You can tell him I referred you.

Yes, it works. 

Have you considered using your brush sander?

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

tjbnwi said:


> Make sure you connect the TS to a CT.
> 
> Tom


any reason other than the mess? 

I'm looking to get a TSC 55 and it may come in handy for the occasional hardiboard cuts


----------



## shanetoolnut

72chevy4x4 said:


> any reason other than the mess?
> 
> I'm looking to get a TSC 55 and it may come in handy for the occasional hardiboard cuts


Assume he recommended it because of Silica.

https://www.osha.gov/dsg/topics/silicacrystalline/

_James Hardie® products contain respirable crystalline silica, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer and is considered by IARC and NIOSH to be a cause of cancer from some occupational sources. Breathing excessive amounts of respirable silica dust can also cause a disabling and potentially fatal lung disease called silicosis, and has been linked with other diseases. Some studies suggest smoking may increase these risks. During installation or handling: (1) work in outdoor areas with ample ventilation; (2) use fiber cement shears for cutting or, where not feasible, use a HardieBlade® saw blade and dust-reducing circular saw attached to a HEPA vacuum; (3) warn others in the immediate area; (4) wear a properly-fitted, NIOSH-approved dust mask or respirator (e.g. N-95) in accordance with applicable government regulations and manufacturer instructions to further limit respirable silica exposures. During clean-up, use HEPA vacuums or wet cleanup methods-never dry sweep._

Reference: http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/best-practices/intro-tools-hz5-ca-en.pdf


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> any reason other than the mess?
> 
> I'm looking to get a TSC 55 and it may come in handy for the occasional hardiboard cuts


The TSC will connect to a CT. Just make sure you turn the CT on.

The TSC does collect dust well. cutting certain items it is best to connect to a CT. 

Thanks for posting the link Shane.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

The first person that posts can have this. 

PM me your address. I'll kick it off in the mail.









_________


----------



## shanetoolnut

Californiadecks said:


> The first person that posts can have this.
> 
> PM me your address. I'll kick it off in the mail.


Save yourself a stamp and the other person the wait.

Just PM the voucher code, that's all that's need. :thumbsup:


----------



## Mort

When does it expire? BTW, first, yo.


----------



## shanetoolnut

Mort said:


> When does it expire? BTW, first, yo.


December 31, 2017


----------



## Calidecks

Mort said:


> When does it expire? BTW, first, yo.


Just so you know, it can't be used for any accessories. 

_________


----------



## Mort

I was thinking a CT-Sys for my as-yet-unpurchased cargo trailer/mobile shop. Something small and quiet.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Californiadecks said:


> The first person that posts can have this.
> 
> PM me your address. I'll kick it off in the mail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _________


You didn't love me enough to just PM me the code. :jester: :laughing:

You already know I have a problem.


----------



## Inner10

I also have one somewhere I don't plan on using.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

tjbnwi said:


> If you have time to wait, I'm bringing mine with me. Be out there in a month.
> 
> If not contact Joe, see if he still has his for sale. Good price with a lot of accessories.
> 
> http://festoolownersgroup.com/class...ander-extra-profile-pads/msg469696/#msg469696
> 
> You can tell him I referred you.
> 
> Yes, it works.
> 
> Have you considered using your brush sander?
> 
> Tom


Thanks, Tom but I think it’s one of those must haves for me and I’m not much for used tools. At one time wasn’t a kit with all the different sanding pads available? And what’s the difference between the SSH-STF-LS130-R25KX and the SSH-STF-LS130-R10KX?


----------



## tjbnwi

I don't recall the kit. 

Radius of the convex curve, 10 mm (about 3/8" radius) or 25 mm (about 1" radius). 

Tom


----------



## Tom M

Used the TS55 with the hardi cement board to clean up some plaster openings in a ceiling.
It worked very well. Very little dust. The most awkward thing was starting the saw upside down. I used task poles to hole it up.


----------



## Lettusbee

What is the best Festool or aftermarket blade for TS55 when cutting styrofoam sheets? Curious if Dust collection will even work with that product?


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> What is the best Festool or aftermarket blade for TS55 when cutting styrofoam sheets? Curious if Dust collection will even work with that product?


Use the 48 tooth that comes with the 55. I cut on foam all the time, it is the backer I use when cutting sheet goods and solids. Dust collection will be just fine. 

Start cutting on foam, you'll find an increase in dust collection. Set the saw to cut about 5mm through the sheet. 

Tom


----------



## J.C.

Is the Pro5 sander just a limited edition sander or will they sell them again once they take care of the backlog?


----------



## tjbnwi

J.C. said:


> Is the Pro5 sander just a limited edition sander or will they sell them again once they take care of the backlog?


Limited form what I've read on FOG. 

Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

I've used the 12 tooth for foam without any issues. Sometimes you can get some strings of foil from the polyiso though.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Just in case my comment above was taken negatively towards Shane or Toolnut or Festool Products(dot)com, I assure you that they delivered as promised. My comment was meant to be light-hearted.
> 
> Like everyone else, I ordered it when I needed it and was hoping it was in the shop 10 minutes after I ordered it. They didn’t deliver on my hopes – but no one does.
> 
> They did what they were asked to do – it was out the door that day. :thumbsup: Shane, I meant no offense. The rest of you – stop sending me PMs and lighten-up - alls good in Da Vinci's world. :laughing:


My comment was me picking on Shane....

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> You stay from my vendors! WTF – you come in here for a few weeks and pretty soon my vendors will be calling me a hack! :laughing:
> 
> I thought about it after we hung-up that I can call the vendors you need and put you on my account. Then you’d get the same 1% discount I get. :laughing:


If I knew what I was doing, I'd get a real job.

Thanks for the offer. (I do need a glass installer)

I went to Horror Freight and got a framing nailer. Thanks for the offer of using yours.

Seeing as this is the FFC thread, I should mention I picked up an HK today also...

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

What kind of glass? Shower?


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> What kind of glass? Shower?


Shower panel(s), mirror and cabinet glass.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Contact Rob at Banner Glass. 303-730-0310. Mention my name for that 1% discount off of retail. :laughing:


----------



## Tom M

tjbnwi said:


> I showered last night....
> 
> Feels sharp and sharp, are 2 different things....
> 
> Quinn did a bunch of blades for me last week. Really nice job, 3 day turn around.
> 
> http://quinnsaw.com
> 
> Tom


So these three blades came out to $48.


----------



## Deckhead

Tom M said:


> So these three blades came out to $48.


For a good sharpening, that ain't too bad. I could get the same thing for about 22 bucks but they would destroy the carbide or pony up about 38 in Tampa and get 3 like new blades. I think one is 25-30 cents a tooth and one is 12 to 20. They have the same machines, the difference is the guy running them.


----------



## Calidecks

Ordered an extra one of these clamps, and customized my horses to accept them. Perfect for using the KSS cross-cut saws.











_________


----------



## overanalyze

Any body have a Tloc Sys sort IV? Wondering how deep the drawers are... 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## shanetoolnut

Usable drawer space:

13-11/16" wide 
2-7/8" high 
10-1/2" deep


----------



## overanalyze

Awesome! Thanks Shane!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## StrongTower

overanalyze said:


> Any body have a Tloc Sys sort IV? Wondering how deep the drawers are...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk




Make sure to factor in buying the dividers because it doesn't come with any. My partner has one, loves it, but was kinda bummed that no dividers came with. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## overanalyze

StrongTower said:


> Make sure to factor in buying the dividers because it doesn't come with any. My partner has one, loves it, but was kinda bummed that no dividers came with.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looking to use it for all my Bosch 12v stuff so I won't need the dividers but thanks for the heads up! 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## StrongTower

overanalyze said:


> Looking to use it for all my Bosch 12v stuff so I won't need the dividers but thanks for the heads up!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk




It's a sweet setup!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## overanalyze

Loving the HKC saw! Cutting rafters, stair treads, lvl beams..it is great. Just ordered the smaller 250 track. I am thinking for stairs it will be nice to set one track at the rise angle and one at the run angle. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## brhokel606

overanalyze said:


> Loving the HKC saw! Cutting rafters, stair treads, lvl beams..it is great. Just ordered the smaller 250 track. I am thinking for stairs it will be nice to set one track at the rise angle and one at the run angle.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


That's a good idea on the 2 rails. I have never had stringers that turned out so well as when I used it. The inspector even commented how perfect they looked. Love the saw


----------



## Big Johnson

Deckhead said:


> For a good sharpening, that ain't too bad. I could get the same thing for about 22 bucks but they would destroy the carbide or pony up about 38 in Tampa and get 3 like new blades. I think one is 25-30 cents a tooth and one is 12 to 20. They have the same machines, the difference is the guy running them.


$0.30/tooth is about what my local sharpener charges. I think my blades work better after a sharpening than they do new. A 60 tooth blade is $18 sharpened and $35 new. When you drop off 3 blades it adds up. Plus the local guy gets the money and not China or Taiwan or wherever they're making the blades.


----------



## tjbnwi

I did finally got the HK. Picked up (can't tell you from which vendor, I don't want Paul yelling at me again:laughing the short rail at the same time. 

I had to adjust how I used the saw, once I did it worked very well.

Still prefer the TS for sheet goods.

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

The HK is nice for cutting osb. That thing can throw some dust! 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

The bag catches 95%. On the Mafell anyway. 

_________________


----------



## Jonbuild

Tom M said:


> Yes Jon



Is that a reply to me?? If so where??


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Jonbuild said:


> So is there a sticker I can get to go over my metric guide to make it standard guide?





Tom M said:


> Yes Jon





Jonbuild said:


> Is that a reply to me?? If so where??


This I'm guessing.


----------



## tjbnwi

19 mm (0.748) is very close to 3/4" (0.750). All you really need to know when it comes to using the saws on imperial material.

Tom


----------



## CrpntrFrk

Californiadecks said:


> I'm getting pretty good at converting metric to inches in my head.
> 
> _________________


I wrote myself a little note with conversions on it and pinned it inside my trailer. Man I wish we were metric.


----------



## J L

I just made a line to mark the depth for various items: 1/2" ply, 3/4" ply, etc. No converting required.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

CrpntrFrk said:


> Man I wish we were metric.


I wish they hadn't changed over to the french system.


----------



## RobertCDF

Seen the new sanders yet? cordless/corded hybrids. I just want the adapter so I can use it on my HKC55 so it'll have some nuts when it needs a little extra boost.


----------



## RobertCDF

RobertCDF said:


> Seen the new sanders yet? cordless/corded hybrids. I just want the adapter so I can use it on my HKC55 so it'll have some nuts when it needs a little extra boost.


Well after poking around FOG it seems that the adapter won't work with anything but the sanders...  that's dumb.


----------



## Tom M

Jonbuild said:


> Is that a reply to me?? If so where??


Sorry, I was thinking of these:
http://iowawebhosting.com/festool/


----------



## tjbnwi

RobertCDF said:


> Well after poking around FOG it seems that the adapter won't work with anything but the sanders...  that's dumb.


Different battery platform. 

Other adapters may be forth coming.

Tom


----------



## RobertCDF

tjbnwi said:


> Different battery platform.
> 
> Other adapters may be forth coming.
> 
> Tom


Hopefully.


----------



## shanetoolnut

I really don't see why the 18v-to-AC adapter wouldn't work on other 18v Festool cordless tools. I had pinged Phil Beckley, Festool UK trainer, to see if he could test and confirm compatibility. Phil's a good guy and ex-colleague. Hopefully the news will be good on compatibility.

Shane


----------



## Sisyphus

shanetoolnut said:


> I really don't see why the 18v-to-AC adapter wouldn't work on other 18v Festool cordless tools. I had pinged Phil Beckley, Festool UK trainer, to see if he could test and confirm compatibility. Phil's a good guy and ex-colleague. Hopefully the news will be good on compatibility.
> 
> Shane


Wouldn't amperage be an issue?


----------



## shanetoolnut

Sisyphus said:


> Wouldn't amperage be an issue?


I don't think so. But I'm also not an electrical engineer. At most, a switch to select amps would be needed.

However, this seems to be a moot point. Phil confirmed that the adapter will not work with other Festool cordless tools. The adapter is keyed to prevent it from being used on a Festool charger or other tools by accident. So, only compatible with these new sanders. A bit of a bummer.

Shane


----------



## Pro framer

My newest from Festool


----------



## tjbnwi

Pro framer said:


> My newest from Festool


I used my HK absit 30 hours in the last 3 days. I never thought I'd like the saw, but every time I use it I'm getting better with it. 

All this strapping and car siding were cut with the HK. Today I cut and installed the cubby area.

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Y'all are going to make me buy one lol


----------



## Pro framer

I almost regretted the purchase, but after a day when I sorted it out!! Man I love it, laid some decking whit it awesome!!


----------



## Tom M

tjbnwi said:


> I used my HK absit 30 hours in the last 3 days. I never thought I'd like the saw, but every time I use it I'm getting better with it.
> 
> All this strapping and car siding were cut with the HK. Today I cut and installed the cubby area.
> 
> Tom


Did you use the clamp on rail guide square ? The GRS 16


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> Did you use the clamp on rail guide square ? The GRS 16


I have not found a need to use the clamp with the GRS-16 yet. If the product I'm cutting is that slick, I'll use a Gecko on the rail. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Had to cut 118º bevels on a 20-1/2" wide piece of 3/4" plywood. Used the TS-55 and MFT 3. 

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

tjbnwi said:


> Had to cut 118º bevels on a 20-1/2" wide piece of 3/4" plywood. Used the TS-55 and MFT 3.
> 
> Tom


Kinda Like Where's Waldo


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> Kinda Like Where's Waldo


I don't understand. Who's Waldo?

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

It's an I spy type game book for kids, mostly.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Where's_Wally?

Do an image search for it. 

It just took me a while to find your cut piece of plywood in the last picture.


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> It's an I spy type game book for kids, mostly.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Where's_Wally?
> 
> Do an image search for it.
> 
> It just took me a while to find your cut piece of plywood in the last picture.


Got it.

Guess its's a good thing it took awhile.

Tom


----------



## JFM constr

i love your way of cutting that angle .though I suspect it was a lot of time and work to set -up .thanks for sharing


----------



## tjbnwi

JFM constr said:


> i love your way of cutting that angle .though I suspect it was a lot of time and work to set -up .thanks for sharing


According to the time stamps on the photos, I took the first one at 9:51:26, the last one of the cuts at 10:05:59. 

That time included stopping to take photos of each step and correcting a mistake I made in my set up. The lower support I used first was car siding, the bevel dropped into it and screwed with the set up. Had to change it to a 2x4. 

My guess is I could do this in less than 5 minutes if all the tools are out. 

Tom


----------



## rrk

Tom M said:


> Did you use the clamp on rail guide square ? The GRS 16


That is what I use , works really well. Not as cumbersome for me. And a lot cheaper


----------



## Tom M

What's the deal with the rail square.The triangle one fits in the sustainer but the square one is better??????


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> What's the deal with the rail square.The triangle one fits in the sustainer but the square one is better??????


The angled one was out first. While designing it they wanted it to fit in a Systainer, thus the angle. They brought out the PE after numerous request that the rail could be used from either edge. Due to the added edge it wont fit in a Systainer. Not sure the PE is better, just gives you the option of working from either edge.

Confused as to which one to get---buy the combo set...

If you go to the TSO website you'll see the new models have a few holes in them. There are a few really nice accessories for the GRS due to be released in about a month. 

Tom


----------



## JFM constr

What is this rail square .I did a search and not coming up with anything


----------



## tjbnwi

https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

tjbnwi said:


> There are a few really nice accessories for the GRS due to be released in about a month.


can you share what they are?


----------



## AustinDB

Anyone have the gearbox on a Rotex go out? My RO90 gave out yesterday. Motor is working perfectly, but the sanding pad doesn't spin. The first time it happened I was able to spin the pad in rotex mode and it started working; 2 mins later it stopped for good. 1.5years old.

So far I've had problems with my TS55, RO150 and now a RO90. I bought the TS75 b/c of the issues the 55 was having and couldn't work without a tracksaw, it's time to send these tools in. 

With $6k-$7k in Festool products, I'll be interested in how they take care of my warranty claims.


----------



## AustinDB

...


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> With $6k-$7k in Festool products, I'll be interested in how they take care of my warranty claims.


I've used the warranty once twice, once dropped a tool off because I was going by Festool on my way to somewhere else, second time they sent me the part need to make a repair. They didn't want to because it voids the warranty if I serviced it. I really needed the tool and the balance of the warranty is only another 3 months so they agreed to ship the part. 

One $100.00 tool or the entire line, matters not at all. They repair the tool and pay shipping both ways.

There is an online repair form you can fill out to expedite this.

http://service.festoolusa.com/account/repair/

Tom


----------



## shanetoolnut

The RO 90 is belt driven. It's possible the belt has given up. But, generally speaking, I've not seen or heard about any common issues with that sander. It's a great machine and usually rock solid.


----------



## Morning Wood

I'm looking at a second festool vac. I've got a midi, and am thinking either the 26 or 36. The 36 because of the self cleaning bag. But I also ordered the dust deputy for the festool, so maybe the self cleaning bag is a wash. Any thoughts? Thanks, nick.


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> I'm looking at a second festool vac. I've got a midi, and am thinking either the 26 or 36. The 36 because of the self cleaning bag. But I also ordered the dust deputy for the festool, so maybe the self cleaning bag is a wash. Any thoughts? Thanks, nick.


All of the fleece bags are "self cleaning". They collapse when the motor shuts down knocking some of the dust off the inside. The 36 AC has a filter cleaning mode for when you're sanding drywall compound.

36 can get heavy...

Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

I think I'll be fine with the 26 and the dust deputy anyway. I find the really fine dust clogs up my midi bag a bit before it gets full. I've poked and prodded it some to get the vac moving more air. Hopefully that isn't an issue with the dust deputy.


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Gray can also be neutral
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Here they limit the gray to 277 volt. One of the many joys of electrical work in this area.

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

tjbnwi said:


> Here they limit the gray to 277 volt. One of the many joys of electrical work in this area.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




Brown Orange and yellow


Mike.
_______________


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> Brown Orange and yellow
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


480 3 phase. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

120/240 Volt
black - phase 1
red - phase 2
blue - phase 3
white or with 3 white stripes - neutral
green - ground

277/480 Volt
brown - phase 1
orange - phase 2
yellow - phase 3
gray or with 2 white stripes
green with yellow stripe - ground


Mike.
_______________


----------



## tjbnwi

Californiadecks said:


> 120/240 Volt
> black - phase 1
> red - phase 2
> blue - phase 3
> white or with 3 white stripes - neutral
> green - ground
> 
> 277/480 Volt
> brown - phase 1
> orange - phase 2
> yellow - phase 3
> gray or with 2 white stripes
> green with yellow stripe - ground
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Blue is the EU standard for neutral. 

https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/AC_Circuits/87/Differences_in_USA_and_European_AC_Panels

Some items make it over here with blue neutrals. 

Tom


----------



## Morning Wood

It was black, white, Green. 
Also received my festool dust deputy. It definitely isn't really meant to be used with the midi, but it barely hooks up. We'll see how I do with bag usage.


----------



## StrongTower

Morning Wood said:


> It was black, white, Green.
> Also received my festool dust deputy. It definitely isn't really meant to be used with the midi, but it barely hooks up. We'll see how I do with bag usage.




I've ran a deputy for a few years now, mainly off my tablesaw. I can't even remember the last time I've changed the bag in the vac, still feels empty every time I load it up. A lot of mdf, and it all goes in the deputy. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Morning Wood

They're really great.


----------



## AustinDB

Finally sprung for the AZ trays, should have spent the $400 years ago. This is the third redo of my van, think I’m done. 

Figured out where to store my levels too! 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

You do know the AZ's are not rated for in vehicle use?

Tom


----------



## AustinDB

no, why?

much better solution than the bungee cord that was keeping them from tipping over.


----------



## tjbnwi

72chevy4x4 said:


> no, why?
> 
> much better solution than the bungee cord that was keeping them from tipping over.


I don't know why Festool does not rate them for in vehicle use. Probably a liability issue.

I know a lot of people who use them in vechiles.

I know one guy who rolls racks of them into his trailer.:whistling

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

For the guys that have the 6" Rotex sander...what are the tasks you use the machine for and what different types of uses is it capable of doing really well?

I got this $50 rebate burning a hole in my pocket and I'm going to be sad if I don't use it. I already have the brushless 6" ETC 150-3. 

Looking to couple it with a Midi to take advantage of that discount as well. End of the year tools. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> For the guys that have the 6" Rotex sander...what are the tasks you use the machine for and what different types of uses is it capable of doing really well?
> 
> I got this $50 rebate burning a hole in my pocket and I'm going to be sad if I don't use it. I already have the brushless 6" ETC 150-3.
> 
> Looking to couple it with a Midi to take advantage of that discount as well. End of the year tools.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have to strip finishes/paint often? Sand rough wood often?

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

Mostly sanding off the planer, glue ups, finish on site beams, built ins, etc. Not a lot cabs, but general finish carpentry. 

I more in the market for the midi, but having been searching for another festool tool to take advantage of the combo deal. I may just get another TS55.

Always been intrigued by the Rotex sanders though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> Mostly sanding off the planer, glue ups, finish on site beams, built ins, etc. Not a lot cabs, but general finish carpentry.
> 
> I more in the market for the midi, but having been searching for another festool tool to take advantage of the combo deal. I may just get another TS55.
> 
> Always been intrigued by the Rotex sanders though
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you don't have one I think the DTS or RTS would be a better choice. I prefer the RTS, I tend to overwork the edges on the DTS.

Get the Rotex local, the way you can return it if it does not fit your needs. Be aware it can be a beast. Control is all in how you hold it. Think of it as a floor buffer, once you figure out how to run it one handed is possible. 

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

tjbnwi said:


> If you don't have one I think the DTS or RTS would be a better choice. I prefer the RTS, I tend to overwork the edges on the DTS.
> 
> 
> 
> Get the Rotex local, the way you can return it if it does not fit your needs. Be aware it can be a beast. Control is all in how you hold it. Think of it as a floor buffer, once you figure out how to run it one handed is possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




I have a DTS, works great for its purpose. The Rotex maybe overkill for what I need. Thanks Tom 🤙🏻


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

If you haven't seen Sedge's short videos they're worth a look, he's a really nice guy, slightly nuts and very knowledgeable about the tools. 

I contend he's doing them to get a new tee-shirt per video.

https://www.instagram.com/festoolsedge/

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> I have a DTS, works great for its purpose. The Rotex maybe overkill for what I need. Thanks Tom 🤙🏻
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you use the voucher for accessories? 

Maybe just get the CT at $50.00 off?

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

I have the 5" Rotex. I love it...now. Like others said there is a learning curve. My partner still hates it and doesn't use it. I mostly use it when I need to remove a lot of finish or get out planer or tooling marks. I prefer it in aggressive mode. You can get a nice finish with it...but is is not a finish sander if that makes sense. 



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> I have the 5" Rotex. I love it...now. Like others said there is a learning curve. My partner still hates it and doesn't use it. I mostly use it when I need to remove a lot of finish or get out planer or tooling marks. I prefer it in aggressive mode. You can get a nice finish with it...but is is not a finish sander if that makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk




I've had one for months still never used. But the price was right. I think. 


Mike.
_______________


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> I've had one for months still never used. But the price was right. I think.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


A Rotex or the $99 Pro 5? 


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> A Rotex or the $99 Pro 5?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk




The pro 5. My bad!


Mike.
_______________


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> The pro 5. My bad!
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Yep...2 completely different animals. I love the Pro5 as a finish sander. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

overanalyze said:


> I have the 5" Rotex. I love it...now. Like others said there is a learning curve. My partner still hates it and doesn't use it. I mostly use it when I need to remove a lot of finish or get out planer or tooling marks. I prefer it in aggressive mode. You can get a nice finish with it...but is is not a finish sander if that makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


In the aggressive mode the Rotex can be a animal!! More like a grinder. It can take down a ½" in no time.


----------



## VinylHanger

I use mine hooked to my hepa vac for sanding drywall.



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

I prep sand for stain and finish with my Rotex. Use the ETS-125 for between coats sanding.

Tom


----------



## J.C.

Californiadecks said:


> The pro 5. My bad!
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Interested in getting rid of it since you don't use it?


----------



## Calidecks

J.C. said:


> Interested in getting rid of it since you don't use it?


 As soon as I get rid of it I'll probably need it. I do have a Mafell KSS 60 for sale. 36v three batteries and 10 blades. Hardly used. 

_________________


----------



## J.C.

Californiadecks said:


> As soon as I get rid of it I'll probably need it. I do have a Mafell KSS 60 for sale. 36v three batteries and 10 blades. Hardly used.
> 
> _________________


Since you're a deck builder, I think you'd be much happier with a Rotex RO 125 or 150 instead of the Pro5. They sand nothing much faster. You should sell the Pro 5 to me and upgrade. :laughing:


----------



## cedarboarder

Just heard that KMS tools in Canada is dropping fest tools because of low sales, and a contract thats size of phone book. hope they keep the Vacuums.


----------



## asevereid

cedarboarder said:


> Just heard that KMS tools in Canada is dropping fest tools because of low sales, and a contract thats size of phone book. hope they keep the Vacuums.


We had a tool store here drop the line a few years ago because they weren't allowed to include them in their sale promotions. 
I'll have to see if the local KMS will be doing the same. 

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk


----------



## cedarboarder

asevereid said:


> We had a tool store here drop the line a few years ago because they weren't allowed to include them in their sale promotions.
> I'll have to see if the local KMS will be doing the same.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk



I wonder if they will put in clearance bin.. :laughing: oh ya.. can't. they are stuck with them.


----------



## Framer87

All the festools in the last 6 months...
Hkc 55 plus fsk 420
1400 track
2700 track
Ct26
Domino xl df 700
Of 1400
Ro 150
Ct26
Mfk 700
Dts 400
Rts 400
Duplex ls 130
Hl 850
Next is probably a TS 75, and I'd like to trade the hk55 for a large maffell unit...


----------



## Spencer

StrongTower said:


> For the guys that have the 6" Rotex sander...what are the tasks you use the machine for and what different types of uses is it capable of doing really well?
> 
> I got this $50 rebate burning a hole in my pocket and I'm going to be sad if I don't use it. I already have the brushless 6" ETC 150-3.
> 
> Looking to couple it with a Midi to take advantage of that discount as well. End of the year tools.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the RO 125. I'm glad I have it. It works well for a lot of tasks. A hard pad is a must. Can't comment on the 6" rotex. I'd imagine it would be a beast to control.

I'd recommend the ETS EC 150/5. You wouldn't think so but the 5mm stroke makes such a huge difference. It gets the job done so much faster. I have the 125/3 also and since I got the 150/5 I hate the 125/3. Wish I had two 150/5's. 

I just received their new cordless sander last week. I'm looking forward to using that onsite for field joints and stuff like that. You might consider that sander. I got it for coffered ceiling joints, scarf joints on base, wains, etc. Bad thing is its only like a 2mm stroke.


----------



## Spencer

StrongTower said:


> For the guys that have the 6" Rotex sander...what are the tasks you use the machine for and what different types of uses is it capable of doing really well?
> 
> I got this $50 rebate burning a hole in my pocket and I'm going to be sad if I don't use it. I already have the brushless 6" ETC 150-3.
> 
> Looking to couple it with a Midi to take advantage of that discount as well. End of the year tools.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Matt, the HKC 55 has also been amazing for me if you're looking to blow some money. 

Cutting shiplap and carsiding,

Cutting finished stair treads and risers, just mark with collings stair gauge drop the saw on it and cut. No walking to the miter saw and trying to get it on just the right angle.

Quick framing jobs its awesome.

I've even used it to install basic waiscoting by cutting in the room when miter saw was setup out in the garage far from the room I was working in.

Handy to take up on scaffolding when doing beam work. If its a hair long. Just trim a little off from the top of the scaffolding. No climbing back down for a re cut.


----------



## Tom Struble

i did this...does that make me a bad person?:sad:


----------



## Tom Struble

Spencer said:


> Matt, the HKC 55 has also been amazing for me if you're looking to blow some money.
> 
> Cutting shiplap and carsiding,
> 
> Cutting finished stair treads and risers, just mark with collings stair gauge drop the saw on it and cut. No walking to the miter saw and trying to get it on just the right angle.
> 
> Quick framing jobs its awesome.
> 
> I've even used it to install basic waiscoting by cutting in the room when miter saw was setup out in the garage far from the room I was working in.
> 
> Handy to take up on scaffolding when doing beam work. If its a hair long. Just trim a little off from the top of the scaffolding. No climbing back down for a re cut.


I have the hk..idk..i think i still prefer to use a miter saw,it's probably cause i don't use it a lot but it just seems awkward to me


----------



## overanalyze

Never thought about cutting vinyl siding with it...I like it!


----------



## Tom M

I bet it works well for vinyl shakes and gable end cuts.


----------



## Tom Struble

i spin the blade around for vinyl

i built a grid of ripped down 2x to cut on top of that folds for storage


----------



## AustinDB

StrongTower said:


> For the guys that have the 6" Rotex sander...what are the tasks you use the machine for



there is defn a learning curve to being able to utilize it without screwing up the wood. I have hard, med and soft pads, only use the med or hard. 

learning how to use the speed and modes in conjunction with proper grit selection has helped me. I've used it for smoothing cabinets and taking down sun damaged ipe (using 40 grit). slowing the speed down and using a good grip keeps the damage down. 

using it on finished oak stairs can be done but it's all in the technique if you want to keep the swirl patterns out. I swirl the machine with hand while it's swirling, I can do it but my worker can't get the hang of it (so I'll always go behind him). mineral spirits on a rag over the wood will allow you to see the condition of the surface before stain so you can determine if another pass is needed. 

I'm so use to the rotex150 that the Pro5 is like watching paint dry or fishing, both which are painfully slow for me :laughing:


----------



## Jonbuild

So I just purchased the HL 850 (planer) today! Loved it for most of the day, then it broke!! 😡




















I was using the rustic head to clean and shape some logs, after an hour or so of enjoyment then SNAP!! I'm not sure if I was using it to hard, not even sure what happened the planer head is perfectly fine, I may have picked up the heel then set it down and power of the planer bit into the wood and it snapped 

Have any of you guys used their planers?


----------



## JFM constr

logs and rough surfaces are tough on planers . i jambed one up bad once ,broke the blade when it ripped it out .planer was still good .


----------



## tjbnwi

Jonbuild said:


> So I just purchased the HL 850 (planer) today! Loved it for most of the day, then it broke!! 😡
> View attachment 414297
> View attachment 414305
> View attachment 414313
> 
> 
> I was using the rustic head to clean and shape some logs, after an hour or so of enjoyment then SNAP!! I'm not sure if I was using it to hard, not even sure what happened the planer head is perfectly fine, I may have picked up the heel then set it down and power of the planer bit into the wood and it snapped
> 
> Have any of you guys used their planers?


Return it. There is a 30 day return policy. 

Tom


----------



## saynever

Key word is "returns it to it's approved state". The extractors come with a molded cord end. You can replace the entire cord with a cord with a molded end but cannot use a field replaced cord end cap. At least thats what OSHA 30 taught me. 

Maybe I was taught incorrect?









tjbnwi said:


> 72chevy4x4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> wonder if OSHA would fine you if they caught you using a CT26 with a non-oem plug?
> 
> do they make compliant replacement plugs?
> 
> 
> 
> A UL listed plug is compliant. (Really the director who responded should have stated listed plug. U.L. is not the only recognized listing agency).
> 
> "April 18, 2014
> 
> Mr. Wes Woodward, Maintenance Mgr.
> Sugar Loaf Senior Living
> 
> Dear Mr. Woodward:
> 
> This letter is in response to your letter dated March 31st, 2014, to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). This letter was forwarded to OSHA's Directorate of Enforcement Programs for response. You had a question about OSHA requirements for replacing the electrical cord on a vacuum cleaner.
> 
> This letter constitutes OSHA's interpretation only of the requirements discussed below and may not be applicable to any question not delineated within your original correspondence. Your question and our reply follow:
> 
> Question: Can I replace the broken end of an electrical cord on my vacuum cleaner with a UL approved plug? Or must I replace the entire cord on the machine?
> 
> Response: The letter you referenced from April 4, 2010 (letter # 20070926-7973; https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=27353), does apply to the scenario you described. As stated in the referenced letter, damaged or defective cords can be replaced so long as they return to their "approved" state. Therefore, you may replace the broken end of the electric cord of the vacuum cleaner with an approved UL plug, so long as the equipment returns to its approved condition; and so long as the equipment is visually inspected for any damages prior to use on any shift.
> 
> In addition to the information we have provided above, the following links on electric cords, and general electrical safety, may be useful for you:
> 
> Electrical safety participant guide - https://www.osha.gov/dte/grant_materials/fy07/sh-16586-07/4_electrical_safety_participant_guide.pdf*
> OSHA's electrical safety page and guide to standards - https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/electrical/index.html
> Thank you for your interest in occupational safety and health. We hope you find this information helpful. To ensure that you are using the correct information and guidance, please consult OSHA's website at https://www.osha.gov/. If you have further questions, please feel free to contact the Directorate of Enforcement Programs at (202) 693-2100.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Thomas Galassi, Director
> Directorate of Enforcement Programs"
> 
> Link for above quote;
> 
> https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=29816
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...


----------



## tjbnwi

Jonbuild said:


> So I just purchased the HL 850 (planer) today! Loved it for most of the day, then it broke!! 😡
> View attachment 414297
> View attachment 414305
> View attachment 414313
> 
> 
> I was using the rustic head to clean and shape some logs, after an hour or so of enjoyment then SNAP!! I'm not sure if I was using it to hard, not even sure what happened the planer head is perfectly fine, I may have picked up the heel then set it down and power of the planer bit into the wood and it snapped
> 
> Have any of you guys used their planers?


When you're using the undulating/rustic heads, make sure the depth is set to 0. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

"Therefore, you may replace the broken end of the electric cord of the vacuum cleaner with an approved UL plug, so long as the equipment returns to its approved condition; and so long as the equipment is visually inspected for any damages prior to use on any shift."

I guess this is one of those situations where we'll never get a direct firm answer. 

I interpret the above as meaning a UL approved replacement plug qualifies as a repair. 

The original equipment was approved with a grounding plug, you install a new UL approved grounding plug, you inspect it to make sure it's install properly. Done.

I believe you've met the intent and letter of the ruling. 

Tom


----------



## Jonbuild

JFM constr said:


> logs and rough surfaces are tough on planers . i jambed one up bad once ,broke the blade when it ripped it out .planer was still good .



Yes I am aware that peeling logs is hard on planers, most times I will hand peel, but in this case it was on the wall... no way for me to get a draw knife in there, farther more I have used my dewalt quite often in the same situation,

That said I was not impressed with the lite weight of the planer, it felt cheap built...


----------



## Jonbuild

tjbnwi said:


> When you're using the undulating/rustic heads, make sure the depth is set to 0.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



That maybe where I did wrong. I had the depth as deep as it will go, but it really knocked some wood out, that's what I liked about it, 👍🏻


----------



## Morning Wood

Where's the best place to get festool stuff online? Local sales tax is going to kill me.


----------



## tjbnwi

Morning Wood said:


> Where's the best place to get festool stuff online? Local sales tax is going to kill me.


Try Festool Products or Tool Nut (same company kinda).

https://www.festoolproducts.com

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

Order from Festools-online.com and you get free swag too


----------



## J.C.

Anyone here have the CT SYS? Does yours make all kind of different noises depending on how much you block the air flow? Mine makes all kinds of noises and I don't know if that's the standard.


----------



## Deckhead

J.C. said:


> Anyone here have the CT SYS? Does yours make all kind of different noises depending on how much you block the air flow? Mine makes all kinds of noises and I don't know if that's the standard.


Mine does too. Seems normal. I used mine to clean out my truck and got some leaves in it and it sounded like someone raping a mule.


----------



## Frank Castle

J.C. said:


> Anyone here have the CT SYS? Does yours make all kind of different noises depending on how much you block the air flow? Mine makes all kinds of noises and I don't know if that's the standard.





Deckhead said:


> Mine does too. Seems normal. I used mine to clean out my truck and got some leaves in it and it sounded like someone raping a mule.


Yes. Got alot drywall dust in mine now and it's begging to sound like that mule.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

J.C. said:


> Anyone here have the CT SYS? Does yours make all kind of different noises depending on how much you block the air flow? Mine makes all kinds of noises and I don't know if that's the standard.


It does. I assume it's a release valve to not burn up the motor or something along those lines.


----------



## overanalyze

I think Travis nailed it. Has something to do with the compact size and keeping the unit from overheating when the airflow slows down due to the bag getting full/clogged.


----------



## tjbnwi

It's normal. Change the bag. The Sys is the only CT I use a reusable bag in.

Tom


----------



## J.C.

tjbnwi said:


> It's normal. Change the bag. The Sys is the only CT I use a reusable bag in.
> 
> Tom


I made sure to get the reusable bag as well. I think it's a must for that vac.


----------



## overanalyze

J.C. said:


> I made sure to get the reusable bag as well. I think it's a must for that vac.


I have the reusable in our CT Sys and our Midi. Well worth it. In our CT36AC I just use the plastic liner. I will dump it a few times before swapping in a new one.


----------



## john5mt

Ok....what's up with the Carvex?
Ive been an avid festoolian but im a little ticked. Bought it when it was first released in NA and last summer it started to vibrate like a MOFO 

sent it in and the quote was 392 bucks to fix it...motor, case, balancing shaft. Basically it wore itself out like a chinese pos

Are they not making the carvex with quality parts? Ive had my bosch 1590 evsk since 2005 and it never gave me a lick of trouble. and it cost half as much WTH?

Why can I get a brand new carvex and a systainer and all the associated parts for less than what it cost to repair my old one? Is this seriously how festool does business? Even though i loved the way this saw cut before it broke. I will not ever waste the money for another and seriously consider future festool purchases that do not offer unique capabilities. I was buying all festool to because i wanted long term usage out of tools, but if i cant get festool to outlast my chinese produced tools that are half or a third as much cost. There is no reason to purchase them.


----------



## Tom M

I need to replace my Bosch jigsaw. I have had it forever. One of those barrel grips that you have to twist the cap 10x to switch blades. 
I looked at the carvex but it was the one Festool that many here wouldn't recommend. So I am still stuck with the Bosch.


----------



## overanalyze

Skip the Carvex and grab the Trion 300. Solid unit and cheaper then the Carvex.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> I need to replace my Bosch jigsaw. I have had it forever. One of those barrel grips that you have to twist the cap 10x to switch blades.
> I looked at the carvex but it was the one Festool that many here wouldn't recommend. So I am still stuck with the Bosch.


Get the Mafell P1cc.

I have a corded and cordless Carvex. The corded it terrible, the cordless is a great saw. It seems to be a crap shoot if you get a good one or junk. 

Tom


----------



## kixnbux

I love mine. It lives on the truck. Best jigsaw I’ve ever owned.


----------



## Tom M

tjbnwi said:


> Get the Mafell P1cc.
> 
> I have a corded and cordless Carvex. The corded it terrible, the cordless is a great saw. It seems to be a crap shoot if you get a good one or junk.
> 
> Tom


That Mafell is expensive I dont think the frequency of use warrants the expense.

I want something with average power that holds straight and wont walk.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> That Mafell is expensive I dont think the frequency of use warrants the expense.
> 
> I want something with average power that holds straight and wont walk.


Give the Carvex a shot then. If you get a bad one return it for an exchanger until you get a good one.

Tom


----------



## Tom M

What are your thoughts on the Trion?


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> What are your thoughts on the Trion?


I've only used it a few times. Didn't have an opinion one way or another. 

I've read complaints about line of sight. I don't have the issue because the vast majority of the time I'm using the jig saw upside down.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Tom M said:


> What are your thoughts on the Trion?


I had the Trion a few years back and sold it to a member here. I did not like the clear plastic dust collection cover. Dust would collect on the plastic (static electricity) and block my site of the blade. I assumed this was due to our low humidity.

I liked the saw, but without dust collection, it was no better than my Boschs.


----------



## Inner10

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I had the Trion a few years back and sold it to a member here. I did not like the clear plastic dust collection cover. Dust would collect on the plastic (static electricity) and block my site of the blade. I assumed this was due to our low humidity.
> 
> I liked the saw, but without dust collection, it was no better than my Boschs.


IIRC the verdict on the Trion when it came out was no one could see the damn blade and it wasn't better than the much loved Bosch at a fraction the price...then the Carvex came out and it was crap as well.


----------



## J.C.

I tried the trion a couple years before the carvex came out and returned it. The thing I didn't like about it was no variable speed trigger. Top handle and variable speed trigger are "must haves" for me.


----------



## john5mt

I cant find much info about the Bosch JS572EBK
It looks like the Carvex in Blue.
Has no one tried it? 
I really have a hard time justifying the Mafell price for a jigsaw 
The Carvex felt like a stretch as it was


----------



## tjbnwi

J.C. said:


> I tried the trion a couple years before the carvex came out and returned it. The thing I didn't like about it was no variable speed trigger. Top handle and variable speed trigger are "must haves" for me.


Because I use the saw from below so often, I prefer a barrel grip. Guess that's why they make both.

Tom


----------



## J.C.

tjbnwi said:


> Because I use the saw from below so often, I prefer a barrel grip. Guess that's why they make both.
> 
> Tom


Actually, I don't know if I've ever used a barrel grip. I just know I want a variable speed trigger and I've never seen a barrel grip with a variable speed trigger. Top handle, upside down or right side up, makes no difference to me.


----------



## overanalyze

Skip the dust collection on any jigsaw. Not worth the small amount it collects vs what the saw generates.


----------



## asevereid

john5mt said:


> I cant find much info about the Bosch JS572EBK
> It looks like the Carvex in Blue.
> Has no one tried it?
> I really have a hard time justifying the Mafell price for a jigsaw
> The Carvex felt like a stretch as it was


I was going to get one, but settled on the 470EBL instead... If you're interested in reading a TON about the 572, head over to the BTP forum... There's at least three different threads and reviews about that jigsaw. 

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

J.C. said:


> Actually, I don't know if I've ever used a barrel grip. I just know I want a variable speed trigger and I've never seen a barrel grip with a variable speed trigger. Top handle, upside down or right side up, makes no difference to me.


The Carvex has a slide on switch, I control the speed by rotating the speed dial with my finger.

They also have an A position, the speed comes up under a load. 

I never could get used to the top handle upside down. 

Tom


----------



## Builders Inc.

Yeah I'm OCD and I like to have the cleanest crew trucks in town. I wash my truck with chemical guys foam cannon and special soap and use the F11 top coat sealant product on top. I was in the process of ordering a clay bar kit and a polish kit and wax kit from them on Black Friday. I need a high speed buffer for the polish. I've got the rotex 150 6" 

I've seen the applicator pads from festool and chemical guys pads are cheaper but I need the adaptor pad that goes on my sander to adapt the chemical guys polishing pads to it. 

What you say? Know about this or have done it? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Jonbuild said:


> OK!! give me a break, I just hurried it together!!
> 
> That is pretty cool CMS fence there, can I do that with CMS-VL setup??


Take the rail and front support off. Slide them in from left to right viewed from the front. The feather keys will set the location. 

Not sure. I don't have a VL. Let me think about how it connects and get back to you.

Tom


----------



## smpcarpentry

Jonbuild said:


> More to my little collection!! 😊🎊
> View attachment 427417


Well wtf i got the mft3 and ro90 now i want to go get the cms to my wife is going to be pissed at you


----------



## Tom M

Does anyone have an 8 ft Rail and regret not buying a 10?

I usually just join a couple of pieces together but I would like a long one for plywood and cutting doors. What I'm not crazy about is transporting the rail larger than 8 ft. I don't use a van and I feel like it's an accident waiting to happen.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

Love my 10 foot rails. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

Tom M said:


> Does anyone have an 8 ft Rail and regret not buying a 10?
> 
> I usually just join a couple of pieces together but I would like a long one for plywood and cutting doors. What I'm not crazy about is transporting the rail larger than 8 ft. I don't use a van and I feel like it's an accident waiting to happen.




I've found that's it's faster and easier to put rails together then securing and transporting long rails. Especially Mafell rails. 


Mike.
_______________


----------



## duburban

Tom M said:


> Does anyone have an 8 ft Rail and regret not buying a 10?
> 
> I usually just join a couple of pieces together but I would like a long one for plywood and cutting doors. What I'm not crazy about is transporting the rail larger than 8 ft. I don't use a van and I feel like it's an accident waiting to happen.


I built a case for my 10' rail years ago. I did an awful job and finally burned it this summer. 

I've been using the DIY rail connectors and they are awesome. Makes joining rails feel good again.


----------



## Tom M

Thanks for the input.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I have the 118". It's been a long time since I've joined a rail.


----------



## Jonbuild

smpcarpentry said:


> Well wtf i got the mft3 and ro90 now i want to go get the cms to my wife is going to be pissed at you



After seeing Tom's fence setup I'm kinda wishing I would have gotten GE setup, but for the fact I got a table by my router, I just see me now detaching the router table every time I need to make a cut on the MFT table🤔

New MFT table!!! Problem fixed!! :whistling


----------



## Jonbuild

I have the 106" 75" 55", the 75 is probably the least used,

Oh and now I have the 42" as well


----------



## Calidecks

Festool hoses and Bluetooth batteries 

https://www.festool.net/campaign/dustfree/downloads/Web_2017_FES_CT_Facelift_Folder_en-GB.pdf


Mike.
_______________


----------



## overanalyze

Californiadecks said:


> Festool hoses and Bluetooth batteries
> 
> https://www.festool.net/campaign/dustfree/downloads/Web_2017_FES_CT_Facelift_Folder_en-GB.pdf
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Pretty cool! I wish they would come up with a module for the midi. That is my most used vac. The new hoses looks sweet! 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

overanalyze said:


> Pretty cool! I wish they would come up with a module for the midi. That is my most used vac. The new hoses looks sweet!
> 
> Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk




I'd buy that setup. As it is I have a remote button on all my hoses. Very convenient.


Mike.
_______________


----------



## Tom M

My two complaints with my midi are the cord storage and hose.

Looks like a great improvement.


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Tom M said:


> My two complaints with my midi are the cord storage and hose.
> 
> Looks like a great improvement.


----------



## Tom M

I've seen it before Travis. Still sucks. If the new ones are not crazy, I'm in.


----------



## Inner10

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgwYCiWhyhE


It's still a time consuming pain in the ass, I got the hose part down, but getting the cord tucked away sucks.


----------



## Tom M

And I leave a nozzle, brush and small attachment tucked in for convenience. I bought a cleaning kit but it's not all that convenient if you have to remove the kit from the top of the garage to get your hose and cord out every single time you use it.


----------



## Morning Wood

Does anyone other than festool make an antistatic hose that will work on festool vacs and tools? One that is cheaper mainly is what I'm looking for. Thanks, Nick.


----------



## tjbnwi

Check the dimensions of the Bosch hoses.

If you do need a new hose the 36 mm Planex hose is a really nice hose. Wont connect to 27 mm ports. 

Tom


----------



## Inner10

tjbnwi said:


> Look at the cuff, towards the hoes end you'll see 2 slots with tabs in them, depress the tabs, pull cuff off hose, the lock ring will probably will slide down the hose, unscrew the retainer (LH thread), trim hose, screw on retainer, slide the lock ring against the retainer, align tabs on ring to slots on cuff, depress tabs, push cuff onto ring.
> 
> I can do this faster than typing it out....
> 
> Tom


I do it all the time to fit the end in electrical boxes, it's sucked more strings through pipe than it has sawdust.


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> But you didn't tell us which end of the hoe has the 2 slots... :whistling


Southern hemisphere.

Tom


----------



## Juan80

tjbnwi said:


> Man down:laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




Or get one of the new smooth ones coming out.
And fix it.
Charlie


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## tjbnwi

Juan80 said:


> Or get one of the new smooth ones coming out.
> And fix it.
> Charlie
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


or just grab one of the other 20 I own.

Tom


----------



## Jonbuild

tjbnwi said:


> Man down:laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Heater was creeping up behind me!! 😡


----------



## Juan80

tjbnwi said:


> or just grab one of the other 20 I own.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




Yeah I figured,just playing 
Charlie


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Tom M

The hose is not a strong point to the vacuum. Yesterday the end must of unscrewed 5 times between sanding pita. And the ribs of the hose wanna grab everything they brush up against.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> The hose is not a strong point to the vacuum. Yesterday the end must of unscrewed 5 times between sanding pita. And the ribs of the hose wanna grab everything they brush up against.


If you just screw the end back on it will keep coming off. Assembled you can't tighten the locking collar. 

Take it apart as described above. Cut back about 2" of hose, reassemble.

You can sleeve the hose to prevent the snags. Should have done mine years ago, just to damn lazy...

or as Juan mentioned get the new sleeved hose. 

Tom


----------



## Tom M

On the midi? I will take a closer look at it later.


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> On the midi? I will take a closer look at it later.


Only difference on the Mini/Midi hose is the CT side cuff being 90º. All the Festool hoses assemble/disassemble the same way.

Tom


----------



## Sisyphus

Apparently Rolair is coming out with a "Systainer Compressor".
(https://festoolshop.ca/rolair/AIRSTAK) 

That's the Canadian price, it'll be cheaper in the US.


----------



## StrongTower

Anyone know if the edging plate and angle adaptor setup for the 1010 router adjusts enough to be able to rout a groove in the center of door bottom? Or is it just for flush trimming?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Bottom of the door rail which is 1-1/8 or 1-3/4?

Use the edge guide or twin edge guides. 

The lipping plate and angle arm are for trimming a vertical edge to a horizontal edge. 

1400 with door edge pinched between two edge guides. I'll see if I have a picture of the lipping plate in use. 

They also make a plexiglass guide for this function. I'll see if I have a picture of that, probably on the 2200. 

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Only other pic I can find.

Tom


----------



## StrongTower

tjbnwi said:


> Only other pic I can find.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom




Thanks Tom, I just came across the other setup. The edge guides look a lot more stable. The plexiglass jig has an incredible price tag. Got a 1010 on the recon sale, just seeing what all functions it can do. I’m going to demo the 2200 in April, will see how it performs routing treads over steel stairs. I have high hopes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

StrongTower said:


> Thanks Tom, I just came across the other setup. The edge guides look a lot more stable. The plexiglass jig has an incredible price tag. Got a 1010 on the recon sale, just seeing what all functions it can do. I’m going to demo the 2200 in April, will see how it performs routing treads over steel stairs. I have high hopes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you're going to do the dual edge guides, get one for the 1010 and one for the 2200, they have the same on center spacing for the rods. 

I have multiple 2200's, they're a hand held shaper. They'll do things you'll never consider doing with any other hand held router. I've spun my 3-5/8" panel raising bit hand held to raise panels for wainscoting. One pass in solid oak panels, the router didn't even know it was cutting. 

You may have seen this. Miter lock run in a 2200 on an 8' panel.






Tom


----------



## Calidecks

Got a chance to look at the new hoses today. They are smoother on the inside as well. 


Mike.
_______________


----------



## overanalyze

You really can't have the better use for the HKC than cutting ship lap or T&G ceiling, deck boards, etc. Anything long. Cut right at the stack with super precision.


----------



## Juan80

overanalyze said:


> You really can't have the better use for the HKC than cutting ship lap or T&G ceiling, deck boards, etc. Anything long. Cut right at the stack with super precision.




I like mine , but have only used for cutting plywood .
I do have a composite deck coming up that will be put to use.
Charlie


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Deckhead

overanalyze said:


> You really can't have the better use for the HKC than cutting ship lap or T&G ceiling, deck boards, etc. Anything long. Cut right at the stack with super precision.


I wish they would have made the battery doubled up because it didn't want have enough balls. I do like that I can cut at the stack and then go to whatever and straight line it on a regular track.

I use mine as much as I use any festool tool, includong the cxs. Makes me think I would have liked the red that much more.


----------



## overanalyze

Yeah it's a little underpowered when cutting yellow pine stringers or lvl but still decent. 

I would love to switch to Mafell but haven't been able to justify that jump yet. Maybe when our TS55 dies I will look a little closer.


----------



## Deckhead

overanalyze said:


> Yeah it's a little underpowered when cutting yellow pine stringers or lvl but still decent.
> 
> I would love to switch to Mafell but haven't been able to justify that jump yet. Maybe when our TS55 dies I will look a little closer.


I haven't done it either but I think this might be the year. I just got done framing a deck with a lot of 45° bevels on the joists and got so aggravated that I have this $600 saw that can only cut 2× on a 90. It's the cats ass on a lot of things and most anything that 1×. Just doesn't have the balls or the depth that I wished it would have.

I have been saying for 2 years I'm going to switch... Maybe I'll finally get off my wallet and do it:laughing:

One thing is for sure though, I'm never getting different Sanders than festool. They are bar none the best hand Sanders on the planet.


----------



## Lettusbee

I tried to use mine on pressure treated deck framing. 
What a joke. 
I'll be getting around to the red brand before long.


----------



## Deckhead

Lettusbee said:


> I tried to use mine on pressure treated deck framing.
> What a joke.
> I'll be getting around to the red brand before long.


I think it was Eric Brancard who bought the corded one because he was going to be using it mostly for stringers and said it was fine for it. Double edged sword. On the job site, everything is moving towards cordless (and rightfully so) but at the same token you don't want to give up the power.

It definitely has it's uses cordless and the convenience is wonderful but would have been so much better with the dual battery.

This week I've learned to treat it as, "it's just not a framing saw" and it's not such a let down. On another hand the flexvolt DeWalt circular saw has been impressive with a single battery. It doesn't skip a beat for power.


----------



## Lettusbee

They market it as a crosscut framing saw, but it comes with a ripping blade. 
That should have been my first clue. 
I use it primarily for siding. Most of my work is with cedar 1x and 2x ext trim, or smart side siding and 5/4 x whatever smart side. 

It does ok on the smart side. But on the cedar, the rip blade leaves the crosscuts too fuzzy, and the next blade up doesn't work because the saw doesn't have enough beans. 

But for ripping smart side, worthless. 

I still use it every day, but I'm looking forward to the day I'll sell it.


----------



## Calidecks

I sold my kss50 and my kss60. The Kss40 is a great little saw even for 2x. (90 degree only)The 50 was underpowered the 60 was damn heavy. The little 40 is perfect even though it's small (go figure). If I were to go with those bigger saws I'd certainly get the corded versions. The large cordless were disappointing to say the least.


Mike.
_______________


----------



## overanalyze

I don't do many decks at all so I can't add any experience with the saw in that regard. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sisyphus

After reading all the feedback about the HKC being under powered I've been holding off hoping Festool comes up with an upgraded model. It would be great to have one saw that can do everything, especially now that there are the new Bluetooth CTs. (We'll see how they fare in the real world soon too.)


----------



## Calidecks

It amazes me that my 99.00 Milwaukee m18v fuel, has more power than the cordless Mafell kss50.


Mike.
_______________


----------



## Sisyphus

Californiadecks said:


> It amazes me that my 99.00 Milwaukee m18v fuel, has more power than the cordless Mafell kss50.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Which makes one wonder why Festool and Mafell can't make their saws more powerful. (Meh!)


----------



## overanalyze

I did see in Europe Dewalt has a Flexvolt circular saw with the track saw base on it. Makes sense to me. I am sure not as precise as a dedicated track saw but another option. Still it misses the retractable track feature which I love.


----------



## Inner10

Californiadecks said:


> I sold my kss50 and my kss60. The Kss40 is a great little saw even for 2x. (90 degree only)The 50 was underpowered the 60 was damn heavy. The little 40 is perfect even though it's small (go figure). If I were to go with those bigger saws I'd certainly get the corded versions. The large cordless were disappointing to say the least.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


I should have got the cordless one like you. I didn't find mine to be under powered, but then again it's tiny...still feels like more power than than anemic TS55.


----------



## Calidecks

Inner10 said:


> I should have got the cordless one like you. I didn't find mine to be under powered, but then again it's tiny...still feels like more power than than anemic TS55.




That little 40 is our most used saw on the job, from framing to decking. I will not hesitate to replace it if it wears out. I cut 60 feet on the tracks with it today. Powered through no problem. I forgot my mt55cc. 


Mike.
_______________


----------



## Morning Wood

I’ve got the hk. $$$ and the fact I was worried about power with the hkc. The hk is fine cutting pt stringers and such. I just like the accuracy and dust collection aspect.


----------



## Calidecks

Bosch track saws are coming to the USA

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/corded-tools/new-bosch-plunge-saw_o


Mike.
_______________


----------



## Irishslave

Californiadecks said:


> Bosch track saws are coming to the USA
> 
> http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/power-tools/corded-tools/new-bosch-plunge-saw_o
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


I've been a Bosch fan for a long time (some stuff their cordless meh) and of course some of their stuff is made in China...wonder if it's techtronic? 

If it's West German or USA made it should be OK. China stuff is Harbor Freight quality...throw away chit.


----------



## CityDecks

Morning Wood said:


> I’ve got the hk. $$$ and the fact I was worried about power with the hkc. The hk is fine cutting pt stringers and such. I just like the accuracy and dust collection aspect.


Interesting you say it can cut pt stringers. Have you tried it on repetitive block cutting? How is it on composite? It looks like it could save bookoo amounts of time doing hot tub fit outs, blocking for smaller jobs etc. Anything big can not pull my speed SQ out of bags for.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## CityDecks

Californiadecks said:


> I sold my kss50 and my kss60. The Kss40 is a great little saw even for 2x. (90 degree only)The 50 was underpowered the 60 was damn heavy. The little 40 is perfect even though it's small (go figure). If I were to go with those bigger saws I'd certainly get the corded versions. The large cordless were disappointing to say the least.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


I was looking at maf upgrade on cordless but could not find a real answer from a real Carpenter/ user in the field with no tolerance 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## CityDecks

CityDecks said:


> I was looking at maf upgrade on cordless but could not find a real answer from a real Carpenter/ user in the field with no tolerance
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


I'll keep my corded mak tracksaw. Already replaced the washers to 5/8 arbor blades and super happy with no mail order $20+/- blades. Now they match my dewalt and Hilti 6 1/2". 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lettusbee

Does cordless Makita track saw work well on Festool guide rails?


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> Does cordless Makita track saw work well on Festool guide rails?


It works, don't know how well. 

Make sure you adjust/match the saws to match if you're running various saws on the saw rails. 

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

tjbnwi said:


> It works, don't know how well.
> 
> Make sure you adjust/match the saws to match if you're running various saws on the saw rails.
> 
> Tom


Thanks,
If I get the Makita and like it, I will liquidate my Festool TS55 and HKC. But I have about $1000.00 bucks worth of Festool Guide rail that I'd like to keep.


----------



## Morning Wood

CityDecks said:


> Interesting you say it can cut pt stringers. Have you tried it on repetitive block cutting? How is it on composite? It looks like it could save bookoo amounts of time doing hot tub fit outs, blocking for smaller jobs etc. Anything big can not pull my speed SQ out of bags for.
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk




Have only used it for stringers and some interior trim miters, which incidentally I had trouble with the track moving. It was ok for stringers. It dig get bogged down a few times when the grain pinched the blade. But I’ve had that happen with my Side winder too. I’m really looking forward to using it on rafters for the top cut.


----------



## CityDecks

Lettusbee said:


> Does cordless Makita track saw work well on Festool guide rails?


They work perfect. I know because I have festi and mak tracks. There is a hair of a wiggle just turn the tension knobs less the 1/4 turn and it's done. You'll never know the difference. I also like the mak tracks rubber blade strips better then festi. I run the mak rubber on both.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## CityDecks

Morning Wood said:


> Have only used it for stringers and some interior trim miters, which incidentally I had trouble with the track moving. It was ok for stringers. It dig get bogged down a few times when the grain pinched the blade. But I’ve had that happen with my Side winder too. I’m really looking forward to using it on rafters for the top cut.


Thanks. There's always the pinch with any saw so just normal business as far as im concerned. Still having a hard time cost. I it's going to be money well spent as soon as i Bite the bullet. Still not sold. If I wasn't cutting pt most if the time I probably would if bought it by know. Perfect example: this winter cutting tons if frozen pt. Good luck festi. I was going 2blades per day on skilsaw.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## Morning Wood

I bought a second blade for it, but I think I bought one with more teeth for interior stuff. I ended up using the MFT table and the 55 for stair nosing miters, stairs treads, trim miters etc.


----------



## tjbnwi

Learning to use the HK on narrower stock was a struggle for me. I finally figured it out and it works well for me now.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I should probably post in the Things I Hate thread…

Kapex crapped out yesterday. Made 2 cuts and was a non-start for the third cut of the day. Pull the trigger and absolutely nothing.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I should probably post in the Things I Hate thread…
> 
> Kapex crapped out yesterday. Made 2 cuts and was a non-start for the third cut of the day. Pull the trigger and absolutely nothing.


Did it let out the “magic smoke”? If so;

If it’s not under warranty, call Festool, order an armature, we’ll change it next weekend. Armature is about $160.00.

If magic smoke was not let out, let me know. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Magic smoke? Just because I live in Colorado, doesn’t mean I’d let my Kapex do any of that chit.

Anyway, here’s the sequence of events:

On Wednesday morning, I was cutting a 57-degree angle and the off cut jammed the saw. Started to kick back, but I got off the trigger pretty quick.

I made a few test cuts and everything seemed fine. Went on with our day and about 2:00 it tripped the breaker. We’ve been on this site for 3 weeks – without tripping this breaker (seemed strange). 

Reset the breaker and finished the day without incident.

Thursday morning, we made our first cut. The second cut it tripped the breaker again. Reset the breaker and made the second cut. Went to make the third cut and nothing. My first thought was it tripped the breaker again… Until I realized the radio was still on. Turned the CT to manual – works fine. 

Kapex is dead! 

I didn’t see any smoke, but it was bright sun and really windy.

I don’t remember when I bought it – probably 7 years ago – no warranty.


----------



## tjbnwi

I’ll text you when I get in the area. Have to see “my girls” before I head to Colorado Springs. 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Magic smoke? Just because I live in Colorado, doesn’t mean I’d let my Kapex do any of that chit.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, here’s the sequence of events:
> 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday morning, I was cutting a 57-degree angle and the off cut jammed the saw. Started to kick back, but I got off the trigger pretty quick.
> 
> 
> 
> I made a few test cuts and everything seemed fine. Went on with our day and about 2:00 it tripped the breaker. We’ve been on this site for 3 weeks – without tripping this breaker (seemed strange).
> 
> 
> 
> Reset the breaker and finished the day without incident.
> 
> 
> 
> Thursday morning, we made our first cut. The second cut it tripped the breaker again. Reset the breaker and made the second cut. Went to make the third cut and nothing. My first thought was it tripped the breaker again… Until I realized the radio was still on. Turned the CT to manual – works fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Kapex is dead!
> 
> 
> 
> I didn’t see any smoke, but it was bright sun and really windy.
> 
> 
> 
> I don’t remember when I bought it – probably 7 years ago – no warranty.




That's when you smell the motor. Closely! Like almost touching closely!


Mike.
_______________


----------



## cedarboarder

DaVinciRemodel said:


> Magic smoke? Just because I live in Colorado, doesn’t mean I’d let my Kapex do any of that chit.
> 
> Anyway, here’s the sequence of events:
> 
> On Wednesday morning, I was cutting a 57-degree angle and the off cut jammed the saw. Started to kick back, but I got off the trigger pretty quick.
> 
> I made a few test cuts and everything seemed fine. Went on with our day and about 2:00 it tripped the breaker. We’ve been on this site for 3 weeks – without tripping this breaker (seemed strange).
> 
> Reset the breaker and finished the day without incident.
> 
> Thursday morning, we made our first cut. The second cut it tripped the breaker again. Reset the breaker and made the second cut. Went to make the third cut and nothing. My first thought was it tripped the breaker again… Until I realized the radio was still on. Turned the CT to manual – works fine.
> 
> Kapex is dead!
> 
> I didn’t see any smoke, but it was bright sun and really windy.
> 
> I don’t remember when I bought it – probably 7 years ago – no warranty.


funny you say that... Peter_C just mentioned kapex motor failures in my post searching for a dust extractor 
http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/choosing-right-dust-extractor-393322/


----------



## Calidecks

cedarboarder said:


> funny you say that... Peter_C just mentioned kapex motor failures in my post searching for a dust extractor
> http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/choosing-right-dust-extractor-393322/




I'm extremely happy with my Milwaukee extractor. I have a Fein, Festool Midi, and the Milwaukee. Each has there benefit. I love the Midi for the track saw and the portability. The Fein is the most powerful by just a little. It stays with the jobsite miter saw. The Milwaukee is permanently attached to the Kapex now set up at my house. Great when I need things cut here. I just ran all the electrical and threw together all my extra Bestfence rails to put together a nice saw setup. Oh I did have to purchase a new Bosch Gravity Rise stand. 


Mike.
_______________


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Californiadecks said:


> That's when you smell the motor. Closely! Like almost touching closely!
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


I did indeed touch it and smell it (I do this a lot) after it happened. It was warm, but probably due to the sun. It did not have a smell of toasted electrical. It normally smells like money. This time it had the smell of not making money (no smell at all).


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

cedarboarder said:


> funny you say that... Peter_C just mentioned kapex motor failures in my post searching for a dust extractor
> http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/choosing-right-dust-extractor-393322/


Correlation does not imply causation. I run all my tools (fix cord or not) through the CT and have for nearly a decade now. The Kapex has been in hard use for approx. 7 years and this is the first time it failed to get to work. To this point, I have invested exactly $0 maintaining or repairing it. I’ll try not to over think this and use the tools the way they were designed.


----------



## Deckhead

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I did indeed touch it and smell it (I do this a lot) after it happened. It was warm, but probably due to the sun. It did not have a smell of toasted electrical. It normally smells like money. This time it had the smell of not making money (no smell at all).


:laughing:

Smells like money.:laughing:

If that's true than dust collection pipe smells like my wife, cost a lotta money.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I did indeed touch it and smell it (I do this a lot) after it happened. It was warm, but probably due to the sun. It did not have a smell of toasted electrical. It normally smells like money. This time it had the smell of not making money (no smell at all).


Plug the Kapex in and give it a try. All Festool’s have thermal switches in them.

As I mentioned in the other thread, I also run everything through a CT, including the Kapex’s (I believe that would be the plural). 

Tom


----------



## Calidecks

My new setup.










Mike.
_______________


----------



## CityDecks

Californiadecks said:


> My new setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


You bringing the Craftsman in the Job? 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Nope. Although my brother said we should go again since it was a good time.


I get there Friday night....

Tom


----------



## MrMcJones1

tjbnwi said:


> I get there Friday night....
> 
> Tom


How was it?


----------



## tjbnwi

MrMcJones1 said:


> How was it?


It was nice. The FOG event Friday night was very enjoyable. They gave the attendees a Systainer with a corded hose in it and a cheese board/knife set. 

I got a few DF 700 connectors from Sedge so I could try out an assembly process that is not listed in the Festool instructions. What we need to do works with the connectors. 

The tools I have a pretty good grasp on how to use them and what they'll do. Nothing there I did not already know about. 

Funniest thing that happened is someone triggered the cartridge on the Saw Stop cabinet saws they had set up (TTS Tooltechnic, Festool parent company, acquired Saw Stop June of 2017). Heard through the entire hall. 

I attend to see some members of FOG I've known for at least 10 years. Someone I know from back home flew out, I was surprised to see him. Hadn't seen him in a few years so it was good catching up. 

Tom


----------



## john5mt

Hey all!

I dont want to get into an argument about this tool just looking for some advice from someone whos done this already

Kapex motor just crapped the bed today I bought it in 2013 so its obviously out of warranty. Does anyone know what the typical problem is for this? It sounds like it's the armature that goes bad. Do you just order one and swap it out or are there other parts you should order at the same time? I wish it was like a dewalt or something where you could just unbolt the motor and swap out a whole unit! Anyone know of a Kapex motor repair kit? TIA


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

Hey John, go back to post # 7068 of this thread (where mine took a dump) and read forward. I changed the armature (not a real simple process, but if I did it…). The problem was not the armature.

If you end up changing the armature, pay attention to post #7092.

I ended up giving it to Tom (tjbnwi) and he changed the speed control board. It now runs (so I’m told).

What were the circumstances of it going down?


----------



## tjbnwi

john5mt said:


> Hey all!
> 
> I dont want to get into an argument about this tool just looking for some advice from someone whos done this already
> 
> Kapex motor just crapped the bed today I bought it in 2013 so its obviously out of warranty. Does anyone know what the typical problem is for this? It sounds like it's the armature that goes bad. Do you just order one and swap it out or are there other parts you should order at the same time? I wish it was like a dewalt or something where you could just unbolt the motor and swap out a whole unit! Anyone know of a Kapex motor repair kit? TIA


Did it slow down then let out the magic smoke or just stop working?

Did the problem occur while cutting?

Do the lasers come on?

Tom


----------



## john5mt

THanks for the tip :thumbsup: I will read those.

It was running fine...never had a problem then on it's last cut it all of the sudden was arcing inside the housing, couldnt turn at barley half speed and smelled like burning electrical. I wondered if something didnt break off and is blocking the armature? 

I got some instructions online and got it halfway apart before i ran out of energy last night. Brushes look fine. Ive got to get some kind of detail vaccum attachment so i can clean the dust out to the bolt holes to pull the motor to get to see the rest of it. Should the armature be able to spin freely or feel like it is catching? 

I know how to take electric motors apart and get them back together. I am still not completely sure how they work. So i am interested in how to diagnose the problem. Your case is the only time i have read online of it not being the armature.


----------



## john5mt

tjbnwi said:


> Did it slow down then let out the magic smoke or just stop working?
> 
> Did the problem occur while cutting?
> 
> Do the lasers come on?
> 
> Tom


 It happened immediatley on the pull of the trigger. From dozens of good cuts to a single now griding, burning, and reduced speed for now on.

Lasers were showing when it was burning used it last. I havent tried them since.


----------



## tjbnwi

john5mt said:


> It happened immediatley on the pull of the trigger. From dozens of good cuts to a single now griding, burning, and reduced speed for now on.
> 
> Lasers were showing when it was burning used it last. I havent tried them since.


It cooked the armature. 

Order a set of brushes to go along with the armature.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

The new armatures now come with the lower bearing assembly in place. 

The new assembly and part number. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

tjbnwi said:


> The new armatures now come with the lower bearing assembly in place.
> 
> The new assembly and part number.
> 
> Tom


Sure they do...with all the failures Festool needed to speed up the repair process...


----------



## tjbnwi

overanalyze said:


> Sure they do...with all the failures Festool needed to speed up the repair process...


By percentage what are the failures?

I have 3 Kapexs. 

I have 2 other brand saws that have issues and are unusable. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

tjbnwi said:


> By percentage what are the failures?
> 
> I have 3 Kapexs.
> 
> I have 2 other brand saws that have issues and are unusable.
> 
> Tom


Kinda a joke kinda not. Can't really say on the failure rate of them. I do know mine failed twice in a 1 year period. Never ran on a generator, never on a long cord. My 20 year old DeWalt is still going. Don't get me wrong...I love the Kapex but I bought a new DW716xps for when the Kapex fails the 3rd time. Just a lot of money and a lot of supposed failures on FOG for a saw that isn't a mainstream purchase item for most guys.


----------



## Lettusbee

tjbnwi said:


> By percentage what are the failures?
> 
> I have 3 Kapexs.
> 
> I have 2 other brand saws that have issues and are unusable.
> 
> Tom


Nobody can say by percentage about failure rate because Festool remains mum. 

I've been tempted to get one, but reputation for failure is discouraging. Add to that the rumor that you really aren't suppose to use it on same circuit as the "dust collector", then what am I supposed to think?. 

I think I'm not going to bother with it is what I'm going to think. 

I know you're more than satisfied with yours, but based on my experience with festool and their underpowered saws, combined with the kapex legend of premature fatalities, I'm simply not going to take the chance. 

I'm not trying to change anyone's mind here, I'm just hoping festool would wake up and address the issue, rather than stay silent. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckhead

Lettusbee said:


> Nobody can say by percentage about failure rate because Festool remains mum.
> 
> I've been tempted to get one, but reputation for failure is discouraging. Add to that the rumor that you really aren't suppose to use it on same circuit as the "dust collector", then what am I supposed to think?.
> 
> I think I'm not going to bother with it is what I'm going to think.
> 
> I know you're more than satisfied with yours, but based on my experience with festool and their underpowered saws, combined with the kapex legend of premature fatalities, I'm simply not going to take the chance.
> 
> I'm not trying to change anyone's mind here, I'm just hoping festool would wake up and address the issue, rather than stay silent.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


If it means anything mine is one of the first ones out (2008 I think?) And I bought it used from my machinery guy in 2012 and I have no issues with it. It's actually the longest I've ever had a Miter saw without a major issue. Normally I figure if I can get three years out of them then it's worth it to just sell at a really low price or give it away and buy new. Kapex had to last 6 and it's been much longer.

Add to that the fact it is so much more accurate and faster than most other saws, I wouldn't hesitate if you're looking for one in the shop. Not sure I'd run one on jobsites often though.

Now the HKC? **** that. Go buy a mafell. I still hate my HKC every time I pull it out.


----------



## john5mt

I guess I must be strange but this motor failure on the kapex is the first miter saw failure I've ever had. 

I've got a Hitachi 10fsh that is still running that I bought in 2008 that is bailing me out while the kapex is down. I use it for framing siding (Hardie) and decks. Only thing wrong with it is the stupid guard design. If I didn't have employees I'd rip that dumb thing off.

I really like almost everything about the kapex except the goofy blade size that limits my choices and the weak grindy motors. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Calidecks

Deckhead said:


> If it means anything mine is one of the first ones out (2008 I think?) And I bought it used from my machinery guy in 2012 and I have no issues with it. It's actually the longest I've ever had a Miter saw without a major issue. Normally I figure if I can get three years out of them then it's worth it to just sell at a really low price or give it away and buy new. Kapex had to last 6 and it's been much longer.
> 
> 
> 
> Add to that the fact it is so much more accurate and faster than most other saws, I wouldn't hesitate if you're looking for one in the shop. Not sure I'd run one on jobsites often though.
> 
> 
> 
> Now the HKC? **** that. Go buy a mafell. I still hate my HKC every time I pull it out.




You've got to use it to know how long it will last. :laughing:


Mike.
_______________


----------



## Inner10

overanalyze said:


> Kinda a joke kinda not. Can't really say on the failure rate of them. I do know mine failed twice in a 1 year period. Never ran on a generator, never on a long cord. My 20 year old DeWalt is still going. Don't get me wrong...I love the Kapex but I bought a new DW716xps for when the Kapex fails the 3rd time. Just a lot of money and a lot of supposed failures on FOG for a saw that isn't a mainstream purchase item for most guys.


It's a turkey.


----------



## rrk

I think Festool has “jumped the shark” I the last few years except for their sanders


----------



## Inner10

rrk said:


> I think Festool has “jumped the shark” I the last few years except for their sanders


They always had hits and misses like any company.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom M

How do you like the hose?

Does it fit in the garage better? Is it much looser to manuvre? I had the ribs catching on finish work


----------



## tjbnwi

Tom M said:


> How do you like the hose?
> 
> Does it fit in the garage better? Is it much looser to manuvre? I had the ribs catching on finish work


Works well.

About the same.

Yes.

Everyone has, thus the redesign.

Tom


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

I agree with Tom.

Our crews have also agreed, much nicer not getting caught all the time.


----------



## Juan80

Tom M said:


> How do you like the hose?
> 
> Does it fit in the garage better? Is it much looser to manuvre? I had the ribs catching on finish work




I was worried that the hose would not fit, being a 5m instead of a 3.5m ,but it fits the hose garage nice.
The old hose always seemed to catch on everything and kept its form after taking it out of the hose garage , making it hook on things Even worse .

I think you could jump out of a plane with just that hose and land safely . It would catch on everything on the way down.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## CityDecks

So in love with Hilti. Got bottom guide rail plate from UK. Best $3.00 that's right $3.00 ever spent.









Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## AustinDB

I’ve been enjoying the TSP guide rail square but still check it with a tape from time to time bc that 1/16” makes a difference when I’m building some boxes.

Does anyone else use a tape off the back to set their rail? I can subtract 7-5/16 from the dimension and that’s the distance when I put the end of the tape to the track. 

Would be nice to have a tape that’s offset by 7-5/16 (or adjustable based on your saws guide offset). Been waiting for the TSO parallel guide release, but that’s scheduled for May. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

AustinDB said:


> I’ve been enjoying the TSP guide rail square but still check it with a tape from time to time bc that 1/16” makes a difference when I’m building some boxes.
> 
> Does anyone else use a tape off the back to set their rail? I can subtract 7-5/16 from the dimension and that’s the distance when I put the end of the tape to the track.
> 
> Would be nice to have a tape that’s offset by 7-5/16 (or adjustable based on your saws guide offset). Been waiting for the TSO parallel guide release, but that’s scheduled for May.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Adjustable drywall square.....

https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-419-48-Adjustable-T-Square/dp/B001BRFK2O

Tom


----------



## Ken360

Just replaced my festool track saw with the one from Makita. Really impressed by the makita, very precise and definitely has more balls than the festool.


----------



## Sisyphus

Lee Valley has introduced their take on the "Track Saw Guide Rail Bag". 

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...g/110494-lee-valley-track-saw-guide-rail-bags


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I’ve got an ETS 125 EQ sander that is leaving swirl marks – bad swirl marks. I’ll send it in for service but I need another so we can keep moving on the cabinets we’re doing.

It looks like I can get an ETS 125 REQ-Plus for $200 or an ETS EC125 for $400. Is the EC that much better (twice as good)?


----------



## J L

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’ve got an ETS 125 EQ sander that is leaving swirl marks – bad swirl marks. I’ll send it in for service but I need another so we can keep moving on the cabinets we’re doing.
> 
> It looks like I can get an ETS 125 REQ-Plus for $200 or an ETS EC125 for $400. Is the EC that much better (twice as good)?


Yes. You'll thank yourself for getting it and the ETS125 EQ will just sit on the shelf once it gets back. :thumbsup:


----------



## CityDecks

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’ve got an ETS 125 EQ sander that is leaving swirl marks – bad swirl marks. I’ll send it in for service but I need another so we can keep moving on the cabinets we’re doing.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I can get an ETS 125 REQ-Plus for $200 or an ETS EC125 for $400. Is the EC that much better (twice as good)?


Have you tried lowering vac speed 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## CityDecks

Ken360 said:


> Just replaced my festool track saw with the one from Makita. Really impressed by the makita, very precise and definitely has more balls than the festool.


Totally hands down. 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## koa

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I’ve got an ETS 125 EQ sander that is leaving swirl marks – bad swirl marks. I’ll send it in for service but I need another so we can keep moving on the cabinets we’re doing.
> 
> It looks like I can get an ETS 125 REQ-Plus for $200 or an ETS EC125 for $400. Is the EC that much better (twice as good)?


The ETS EC 125/3 will also take the larger pads from the ETS EC 150/3, so you’re sort of getting two sanders.


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

CityDecks said:


> Have you tried lowering vac speed
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


We have 3 of them. The other 2 work just fine at the same vac speed.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

koa said:


> The ETS EC 125/3 will also take the larger pads from the ETS EC 150/3, so you’re sort of getting two sanders.


Mele Kalikimaka, brah:thumbsup:


----------



## koa

Dirtywhiteboy said:


> Mele Kalikimaka, brah:thumbsup:


Same to you and your family.


----------



## Bearpau

I have a few festool sanders and my workers prefer the Milwaukee ros says its not as hard on their hands.


----------



## CityDecks

Bearpau said:


> I have a few festool sanders and my workers prefer the Milwaukee ros says its not as hard on their hands.


I tried the Maki band ended getting the Bosch 2nd gen 6". 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## EricBrancard

Ken360 said:


> Just replaced my festool track saw with the one from Makita. Really impressed by the makita, very precise and definitely has more balls than the festool.


I only wish it had a 12’ cord. Who’s the genius at Makita that decided to put a short cord on a track saw?


----------



## Inner10

CityDecks said:


> I tried the Maki band ended getting the Bosch 2nd gen 6".
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


The Bosch 6" is a monster.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## CityDecks

EricBrancard said:


> I only wish it had a 12’ cord. Who’s the genius at Makita that decided to put a short cord on a track saw?


I replaced with 14' er.. 10 min upgrade

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## CityDecks

Inner10 said:


> The Bosch 6" is a monster.
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I primarily use Bosch 6 " or ro90. Between the 2 of them there's not a hole lot you can't do. 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


----------



## EricBrancard

CityDecks said:


> I replaced with 14' er.. 10 min upgrade
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


I need to find one of those Festool quick connect ends for it. Or maybe I’ll just get the cordless one.


----------



## Inner10

EricBrancard said:


> I need to find one of those Festool quick connect ends for it. Or maybe I’ll just get the cordless one.


You can but the plug-it conversion kit which is basically a pigtail connector.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## AustinDB

Checking out the booth at IBS2020










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## georgiasparky

If you're using a dust extractor, turn it down to 20-25% or so. The swirl marks will most likely go away and the dust pick up will be the same or better.


----------



## cedarboarder

CityDecks said:


> I primarily use Bosch 6 " or ro90. Between the 2 of them there's not a hole lot you can't do.
> 
> Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


the ro 90 will be my first festool purchase.. one day.. I like how they made a sand paper kit with a tool box for it. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## duburban

cedarboarder said:


> the ro 90 will be my first festool purchase.. one day.. I like how they made a sand paper kit with a tool box for it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk




Ro90 is a contender for my least used Festool 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cedarboarder

duburban said:


> Ro90 is a contender for my least used Festool
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


what about most used?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

cedarboarder said:


> the ro 90 will be my first festool purchase.. one day.. I like how they made a sand paper kit with a tool box for it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


I have to ask----what are you planning on using the sander for? 

The only 2 Festool sanders I do not own are the RO 150 and ETS 150. Simply because I do not need to stock another thousand dollars worth of sandpaper.

Tom


----------



## cedarboarder

correction the Dts 400 delta is the one I've been looking at for a while. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## tjbnwi

cedarboarder said:


> correction the Dts 400 delta is the one I've been looking at for a while.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


It's a good sander. Biggest issue is even with the extractor set all the way down they tend to stick to the work surface. Having a protection pad on it not matter the abrasive helps limit the issue.

Tom


----------



## rblakes1

cedarboarder said:


> correction the Dts 400 delta is the one I've been looking at for a while.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


I was gonna say let me know when you want to get the ro 90, I have an extra

-Rich


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

We bought a DTS 400 about a year and a half ago for a specific use (about 6 hours of sanding). We haven't used it since. We use the RO-90 once a year.

We use the chit out of our ETS 125's and RO 125.


----------



## duburban

Ets EC 150 3/5 depending on application and Ro 150 are my most used festool sander with the mft tables and track saw being most used Festools 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## EricBrancard

The RTS 400 is my most used at this point.


----------



## overanalyze

The cordless Delta head is my favorite for small patches and inside corner work!!


----------



## cedarboarder

tjbnwi said:


> I have to ask----what are you planning on using the sander for?
> 
> The only 2 Festool sanders I do not own are the RO 150 and ETS 150. Simply because I do not need to stock another thousand dollars worth of sandpaper.
> 
> Tom





overanalyze said:


> The cordless Delta head is my favorite for small patches and inside corner work!!


The LS 130 is another one I would consider since it comes with the 90° sanding pad.
It would be used mostly for getting in tight spots where the drywall sander cant get too. I want a sander with the best extraction and festool is it.


----------



## tjbnwi

cedarboarder said:


> The LS 130 is another one I would consider since it comes with the 90° sanding pad.
> It would be used mostly for getting in tight spots where the drywall sander cant get too. I want a sander with the best extraction and festool is it.


DTS 400 with an inferface pad, otherwise it will be to aggressive when hooked to a CT.

Tom


----------



## tjbnwi

Calidecks said:


> I have that one. It's big and bulky imo. Really like the Festool switch.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> _______________


Maybe you can put the reciever in an electrical box? Plug on the in wires, receptacle on the out wires?

I've yet to see one, not sure how praticale my suggestion may be.

Tom


----------



## Lettusbee

Picked up an RO90DX last week. Really love the sander. 

I was hoping to use it for Rubio Monocoat, but am looking for alternatives to the Festool Branded accessories. Because the Festool branded accessories are ridiculous expensive. Anybody have any reccomendations?


----------



## tjbnwi

Lettusbee said:


> Picked up an RO90DX last week. Really love the sander.
> 
> I was hoping to use it for Rubio Monocoat, but am looking for alternatives to the Festool Branded accessories. Because the Festool branded accessories are ridiculous expensive. Anybody have any reccomendations?


Don’t know of anyone making 90 accessories. 

Tom


----------



## overanalyze

I have been using Mirka AutoNet and love it! Might wanna see if they have it available for that size


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

What the hell is happening here? TS55 cutting a 45 bevel in 3/4" white oak. Brand new blade. All the burn marks are on the fall side. This thing cut well yesterday. Now today it's burning its way through. It's also hit the track a couple of times. Did it lose it's toe-in?


----------



## tjbnwi

Check the rail gibbs, make sure one is not loose or to tight (probably the front one).

We’re you cutting bevels yesterday?

The CMT blade cleaner works well. 

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

The first thing I checked was if the blade was in backwards (that's how bad the cut was). Checked the gibbs. She is solid on the track. Yes, we were cutting 45's yesterday as well.

That blade was black a full inch up from the teeth. I got as much off as I could with the CMT (in the picture). Had to use a paint scraper for some of it... then more CMT.

That new blade made approx. 8 cuts yesterday and 5 ugly ones today.


----------



## Dirtywhiteboy

It was getting a lot of friction, I use paraffin wax on my blades to help the friction.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> The first thing I checked was if the blade was in backwards (that's how bad the cut was). Checked the gibbs. She is solid on the track. Yes, we were cutting 45's yesterday as well.
> 
> That blade was black a full inch up from the teeth. I got as much off as I could with the CMT (in the picture). Had to use a paint scraper for some of it... then more CMT.
> 
> That new blade made approx. 8 cuts yesterday and 5 ugly ones today.


I’ll probably be up your way Sunday, I can take a look at the toe in on the saw if you want me to.

Tom


----------



## DaVinciRemodel

I put a new blade on this morning and it cut just fine. The cuts we were making yesterday were on small pieces (had to prop the back of the track on some scrap and no real good way to clamp them down). My guess is that they were moving.

If I don't screw anything up on finish or install, we won't need to make any more of these Fing cuts.

Thanks for the offer. Let me know if you have time to go get a beverage Sunday.


----------



## tjbnwi

DaVinciRemodel said:


> I put a new blade on this morning and it cut just fine. The cuts we were making yesterday were on small pieces (had to prop the back of the track on some scrap and no real good way to clamp them down). My guess is that they were moving.
> 
> If I don't screw anything up on finish or install, we won't need to make any more of these Fing cuts.
> 
> Thanks for the offer. Let me know if you have time to go get a beverage Sunday.


Next time you run into a narrow piece like this, masking tape on the edges of the work board and another board same thickness, hot glue the edges together. (If you have a Domino and the edge is not visible just use dominos).

I might drop the wife off at the daughters (I’m not allowed over there, but it’s okay I drop her doors off I refinished.....)because I’m not getting the vaccine.

I’ll let you know if I can get away for a beverage....

Tom


----------

