# Tweaking a hollow metal door



## Jackpine Savage (Dec 27, 2010)

Here's the scenario:

I have a 3-0 hollow metal door in an apartment building that is having closing issues. It is retrofit in an old brick building. It has a closer and a panic bar. (LCN closer and Von Duprin Panic bar) Also an electric strike. The frame is grouted, with EIFS butted into one side and drywall into the other, so it ain't moving. 

The frame appears to have been installed slightly "crosslegged", meaning when the door closes, it contacts the stop on the top of the frame before hitting on the bottom. 

Two problems: first, the door doesn't latch without giving it a slight tug. Second, when the door is latched, it puts a little outward pressure on the electric strike which prevents it from releasing when using the fob reader. I already tried removing the weatherstripping, which helps, but still I'm having problems with the latching on it's own.

I haven't dealt with a lot of HM doors before. Does anyone know any tricks? The way the strike is constructed, there is no outward adjustment. It fits into a notch in the frame. 

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!


----------



## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Either grind down the latch plate, or install a new door.


----------



## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Bend the door. It's easy. If it is hitting on top and not on the bottom put some kind of stop on the bottom of the door and lean real hard into the top of the door. It'll move. Do the opposite if the bottom hits. You may have to lean into it pretty hard.


----------



## mbobbish734 (Apr 28, 2011)

I've done the trick Leo stated, it does work but may need some real force. Also don't break that door hardware, von duprin is some expensive stuff.


----------



## Old Grumpy (Mar 11, 2009)

The bending trick "can" work. Be careful though. In order to twist the door enough you may find that the paper honeycomb or insulation layer inside it has to break free of its bond with the inside. In extreme cases you immediately get a sloppy, floppy panel of tin instead of a stiff door. In less extreme cases the bond may be broken but will take time to loosen so what seems fine now mightloosen in a short period of time-or not.
Many/most HMD, arch. hardware suppliers offer the ability to do various levels of door customizing, including the off-setting of the hinge mount plates within the mortise area. Some have a crew/guy who can do this on site. Not free but you get a fully functional door and warranty *and *a valid fire label. 
This isn't always an option so think about doing some minor slotting of the screw holes on the hinges themselves or even redrilling and retapping the threads in the hinge mount plates.
If you have managed to get the pressure released on strike and are just having self latch problems remember that the closer should have a second "latch speed" adjustment covering the final half foot or so of travel that you may want to speed up.
Have fun with your steel door.


----------



## JustaFramer (Jan 21, 2005)

All the tips are here are good. They are also published by the HMMA. Btw are you sure you took off weather stripping? It could be smoke seal. Either way put it back on and file the strike.


----------



## Jackpine Savage (Dec 27, 2010)

Thanks for all the tips. I knew you guys would have some tricks up your sleeves!

I'm going to try the bending thing first. 

There is no latch plate/strike to grind. It's an electric strike. 

I'm putting the weatherstrip back on as soon as I get back there. This is northern Minnesota after all.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

when i first got married i worked at a Ford dealership and when a car came in with wind noise they had this huge 7' tall guy bend the doors in his hands to hit the gaskets:blink:


----------



## mbobbish734 (Apr 28, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> when i first got married i worked at a Ford dealership and when a car came in with wind noise they had this huge 7' tall guy bend the doors in his hands to hit the gaskets:blink:


Thats how you line up a hood or deck lid on a car that just won't adjust right. Give it a little tweak.


----------



## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

Is this a new slab in an old buck or is it a new retrofit slab and frame?
If it is a new slab and frame you should be able to tweak the frame edges somewhat to get things parrallel again.


----------



## cortez (Jul 10, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> when i first got married i worked at a Ford dealership and when a car came in with wind noise they had this huge 7' tall guy bend the doors in his hands to hit the gaskets:blink:



Just remember to open the window first and avoid breakage.


----------



## Kevinsmess (Mar 4, 2021)

Remove cover of closer and crank the power up to 6 or 7 on the end of the closer cylinder to pull door closed. Wont help the fob strike problem but will force strike to latch in most cases.


----------



## Elena Fishchenko (Apr 15, 2021)

Twist the entryway. It's simple. In the event that it is hitting on top and not on the base put some sort of stop on the lower part of the entryway and lean genuine hard into the highest point of the entryway. It'll move. Do the inverse if the base hits. You may need to incline toward it quite hard.


----------

