# Worm drive over side winder



## asgoodasdead (Aug 30, 2013)

Birch said:


> Don't watch the blade, watch the guide.


my cuts come out way more accurate/straighter when I watch the blade.


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## Designed2Fail (Apr 10, 2013)

Is their any learning curve with a worm drive saw? Have always used a sidewinder. Thanks


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## asgoodasdead (Aug 30, 2013)

it's a saw. it goes round and cuts. just a matter of adjusting to the weight difference and how the 2 saws are balanced differently.


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## NCMCarpentry (Apr 7, 2013)

Designed2Fail said:


> Is their any learning curve with a worm drive saw? Have always used a sidewinder. Thanks


It'll feel stupid heavy at first. I think you "get used" to it more than get stronger to make up for it... The slower blade feels a bit weird going through light lumber i.e 2x4 SPF. I'd say there's a bit of a learning curve but its the same concept as a sidewinder.

Coming from a guy who switched to a worm drive last month


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## aaron_a (Dec 18, 2013)

I bought a worm drive last year for the first time. I picked up a well used 8 1/4 skill for 50 bucks at the pawn shop. It has quickly become my go to saw. The line of sight is great for me, and as a short person, having the extra reach for cutting 4x8 sheets is a nice bonus.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

What blade you use makes a difference - some are designed for worm drives and some are designed for sidewinders.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Paulie said:


> but you'll have at least one arm that's ripped.


yea..ok Paulie..keep telling yourself it's because of the saw..


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> yea..ok Paulie..keep telling yourself it's because of the saw..


I sometimes switch hands so it feels like I'm getting some "strange"


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Tom Struble said:


> yea..ok Paulie..keep telling yourself it's because of the saw..


Note to self: purchase worm drive for cover story :whistling


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## Paulie (Feb 11, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> yea..ok Paulie..keep telling yourself it's because of the saw..





Californiadecks said:


> I sometimes switch hands so it feels like I'm getting some "strange"





EricBrancard said:


> Note to self: purchase worm drive for cover story :whistling


Degenerates. Those of us that are pure of heart know what I meant.:innocent:


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

asgoodasdead said:


> my cuts come out way more accurate/straighter when I watch the blade.



I can cut a line as nice as a table saw and only look at the blade once as it enters the sheet, and that's with a scribed line, by tape measure too. After the kerf is started, I move my attention to the guide, and keep a steady strong feed, so I cut much quicker than a TS too.


I always feel like techniques need to be talked about when comparing the two types of saws. I own both kind, but have more time on side-winders. I started appreciating the Worms more when I started gang cutting rafters/ bird-mouths. With wormies, I tend to be a blade watcher, but I keep aware of the guide (and my other senses too), but w/sw's, I religiously use the guide and my body's senses of sight, hearing, and touch, for sheathing cuts.


Wd's can cut better with dull blades than sw's. I have had some old Craftsman saws that the blade was totally hidden by the housing. I use mostly PC-315-1 mod saws. Drop foot w/top handles. Since they discontinued them about twenty years back, I just keep rebuilding them.


I think once you get a few hundred thousand cuts under your belt, it just happens, either type of saw.


One other thing I do is pull the trigger and never let off. It makes the switches last longer. Brush are cheaper and easier to replace too.


Using a Circ saw is more than just a visual experience. Your other senses are your warning lights on your instrument panel. If it looks, sounds, and feels good, all lights are green.



Keep that baby buzzing! 

...


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Birch said:


> I can cut a line as nice as a table saw and only look at the blade once as it enters the sheet, and that's with a scribed line, by tape measure too. After the kerf is started, I move my attention to the guide, and keep a steady strong feed, so I cut much quicker than a TS too. I always feel like techniques need to be talked about when comparing the two types of saws. I own both kind, but have more time on side-winders. I started appreciating the Worms more when I started gang cutting rafters/ bird-mouths. With wormies, I tend to be a blade watcher, but I keep aware of the guide (and my other senses too), but w/sw's, I religiously use the guide and my body's senses of sight, hearing, and touch, for sheathing cuts. Wd's can cut better with dull blades than sw's. I have had some old Craftsman saws that the blade was totally hidden by the housing. I use mostly PC-315-1 mod saws. Drop foot w/top handles. Since they discontinued them about twenty years back, I just keep rebuilding them. I think once you get a few hundred thousand cuts under your belt, it just happens, either type of saw. One other thing I do is pull the trigger and never let off. It makes the switches last longer. Brush are cheaper and easier to replace too. Using a Circ saw is more than just a visual experience. Your other senses are your warning lights on your instrument panel. If it looks, sounds, and feels good, all lights are green. Keep that baby buzzing!  ...


I can cut I straighter line without looking at it at all, having a conversation with someone


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I do a surprising number of curved cuts, so I have to go with watching the blade on these. For gradual curves, I'll use a regular blade in the circ saw, but for tighter radius curves I'll use a demo blade - it's so thin it will flex pretty easily.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Just wanna know one thing - where is DWB?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Just wanna know one thing - where is DWB?


Hawaii:whistling


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

hdavis said:


> Hawaii:whistling


I'm just fine. Ha why you?:whistling


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

jlsconstruction said:


> I can cut I straighter line without looking at it at all, having a conversation with someone



Try closing your eyes . . . 


:laughing:

...


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## CanningCustom (Nov 4, 2007)

wormdrives are a more versatile tools. Either left or right handed. I for one use a wormdrive with both hands. I am right hand dominant and cut with my right hand 90% of the time. if I am cutting rafter cheek cuts ill switch to left hand.


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

carpenter uk said:


> thats a trim saw:whistling


but a worm drive, and that was the question.


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## CanningCustom (Nov 4, 2007)

m1911 said:


> but a worm drive, and that was the question.


winner by technicality!


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

m1911 said:


> but a worm drive, and that was the question.


and it's a kickass saw too! :blink:


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Birch said:


> Don't watch the blade, watch the guide.


Except that the guide runs off the material before the blade. Not to mention watching the blade is more accurate than the guide line.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

RobertCDF said:


> Except that the guide runs off the material before the blade. Not to mention watching the blade is more accurate than the guide line.


 
Iron sites on a gun are comparable to the guide on a saw. The line is the target, the guide is the front site, the blade is the rear site. That's just geometry. The guy that designed the saw put it there for a reason, and I find it very useful.  


The best cut guys on sheathing I ever saw were the girls that I trained to use my PC 315 sidewinders. They didn't have any bad habits developed from prior experience. Dead accurate cuts every time and amazing to watch too. They out cut most other guys on the crew at sheathing, including their fulltime husbands. 


Good saws, good blades, good technique, good cuts. :thumbsup:


Once your eye becomes glued to the blade, it's kind of hard to get it unstuck. :sad:


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I like it, I'll have to try it. Any other pointers using your technique?


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

hdavis said:


> I like it, I'll have to try it. Any other pointers using your technique?



Yeah, over on the "circ saw trick" thread I added a couple of tips. 


I will say that I have never used a worm drive saw I didn't like. I own Rockwell's, Skill's, and a Bosch. All pretty good saws. Blades are eye magnets though, Lol. :laughing:


I have had /used some sidewinders that were just crap for a saw. If I was buying new sidewinders I think I'd give the Makita's a try. Milwaukee's were good to. I own a couple of Yellow DeWalt's that I designate as "Newby, up-top saws", because they are cheap and have a good "Bounce" to them.  They flex so much the guides are almost useless on them though. :whistling But they bounce good if dropped. My good saws break easier if dropped. :sad:

...


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

Cut this 8' rip with a worm drive (ridgid) on a snapped chalk line, only looked at the blade. I even had to stop halfway to climb on top of the board to finish the rip.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Doesn't matter if you look at the guard or the blade if you know what you're doing, however, it's nice to have the blade on the left when you line up the start of the cut.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

RobertCDF said:


> Cut this 8' rip with a worm drive (ridgid) on a snapped chalk line, only looked at the blade. I even had to stop halfway to climb on top of the board to finish the rip.
> 
> View attachment 111637


Robert,

Thanks for the pic.

Impressive. That's the way they should look.

Not much with that cut to be critical of, for sure, use it anywhere. I'm sure it sounded and felt as good as it looks too, as you performed the cut. Since you are cutting well and happy with how and what you are accomplishing, you will probably not see or get any benefit from my posts. But I think maybe in the future you might recall something and find it suddenly useful, never know.

I would suggest, when you think of it, look forward of the blade and see what the guide is doing during your cuts, you should find it tracking nicely ahead of the cut. Not all guides align perfect with the blade, but on a good quality saw, wherever they do align, they will remain constant and can be used at that point. A good saw will naturally want to cut straight lines. (And using the guide will lengthen the line of attack to the target line creating less waver at the blade as it progresses.)

Most saw guides are wide notches with one side designated for square cuts and the other for 45* bevels. Everything else is somewhere in-between.  The old PC 315 had one sided guides that work for any angle. That will spoil you if you were a guide man. :thumbup:

I have never used a Rigid Worm Saw. I can tell from the pic that it has more stability than the Skills because there is more foot surface to the left of the saw blade. That is something that Skill could benefit from, I feel. I like that. 


A couple of differences from your technique and mine on the same cut above. 

1.) I would have cut a scribed line from the backside.

2.) I would not have stopped to climbed up to finish the cut. I would have used my right hand thumb on the trigger and my left hand on the pull knob to pull/push the saw along and just reached over/out. (I would have been comfortably set up on horses like you. Approximately 30" tall.)

3.) And yes, I would have watched the guide since the blade would not be easily visible from that position to the cut. *(I do not feel that a rip guide (track/fence) is unlawful for these kinds of cuts either, but for the sake of discussing technique, we will exclude them. The cuts my girls made the most were Hip/Val sheathing angles and simple square cuts, and rips. Fun to watch them too, so proud.)

4.) (?) And if possible, w/ needed, I would have gang cut several rips at once. (Gang cuts seem easier to me. More blade depth is helpful for stable straight rips.)

I believe the results would have been equal too, (or better, certainly not worse), and probably performed in less time. (Only because I think scribing is faster and not stopping and climbing.)


Nice post, thanks. :thumbsup:


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

When you're only 5' 3" tall and your rip is 25" there is no reaching over to make that cut, taller guys can pull that off much easier. I prefer to cut on the ground but I didn't have a sacrificial sheet in the back and it would have taken more time to get one out of the trailer, this was kind of a last minute decision to put up a new piece of soffit and the absolutely last thing we did on this project after everything else has been cleaned up. 

I agree that gang ripping makes it even easier with more depth. 

Girls are naturally better shooters too, they're better with their hands and steadier too. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

Birch said:


> Iron sites on a gun are comparable to the guide on a saw. The line is the target, the guide is the front site, the blade is the rear site. That's just geometry. The guy that designed the saw put it there for a reason, and I find it very useful.
> 
> 
> The best cut guys on sheathing I ever saw were the girls that I trained to use my PC 315 sidewinders. They didn't have any bad habits developed from prior experience. Dead accurate cuts every time and amazing to watch too. They out cut most other guys on the crew at sheathing, including their fulltime husbands.
> ...


I used to use a saw with the blade on the left so I could watch the blade through the cut. Eventually I moved over to a right hand blade and started using the guide. I prefer this method.


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

RobertCDF said:


> Girls are naturally better shooters too, they're better with their hands and steadier too.



Not to get too off topic, but it's only sort if true. They tend to be better listeners because they have less ego invested in shooting than the average guy. Thus following instruction better leads to better results. They also have a different center of gravity. If you look at the gap between male and female professional shooters, you'll see that this really only applies to novices as the top female shooters are light years behind the top male shooters.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

EricBrancard said:


> Not to get too off topic, but it's only sort if true.


Either way, if you get to train someone from scratch who has no experience, even *play* experience, you don't have to undo any habits they've developed.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

EricBrancard said:


> I used to use a saw with the blade on the left so I could watch the blade through the cut. Eventually I moved over to a right hand blade and started using the guide. I prefer this method.



:thumbup:

40 years ago when I was just starting out, I wanted to watch the blade too. I was a terrible sawyer. I watch a co-worker make a beautiful square cut across a "tuba 12", like butter, and I asked him how he did that. He said, "I watched the guide". So that's what I did from then on!


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## EricBrancard (Jun 8, 2012)

hdavis said:


> Either way, if you get to train someone from scratch who has no experience, even *play* experience, you don't have to undo any habits they've developed.


Correct. A clean slate is a dream to work with.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

EricBrancard said:


> Correct. A clean slate is a dream to work with.



And if they're pretty, hard workers, and don't have a "Sexual Identity Crisis" thing going on, even better. :whistling :jester:


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

RobertCDF said:


> When you're only 5' 3" tall and your rip is 25" there is no reaching over to make that cut, taller guys can pull that off much easier. I prefer to cut on the ground but I didn't have a sacrificial sheet in the back and it would have taken more time to get one out of the trailer, this was kind of a last minute decision to put up a new piece of soffit and the absolutely last thing we did on this project after everything else has been cleaned up.
> 
> I agree that gang ripping makes it even easier with more depth.
> 
> ...




Robert,



Right handed?



A blade right saw would give you quite a bit more reach. 


:whistling

...


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## RobertCDF (Aug 18, 2005)

I think I know how to use a saw... but thanks for trying. I

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


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## D.R. Builders (Apr 29, 2014)

Hey guys, new to the forums here...

Here's my two cents. I've worked many years in construction, from building oil rigs in Prudhoe Bay to multi-million dollar custom lake houses in Vermont, to Big Sky Resort in Montana.

As someone previously mentioned, worm-drive saws tend to be more prevalent on the western side of the country, and direct-drive saws tend to be more prevalent on the eastern side of the country.

And as a practical matter, because worm drives are heavier, spin slower and generate more torque, they're better suited to heavy duty ripping, tearing through piles of sheet goods, etc. Direct drive saws spin faster, cut cleaner, and are typically the saw of choice on custom home sites (at least the ones I've worked on).


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

Birch said:


> Robert,
> 
> Thanks for the pic.
> 
> ...


i would have used the track saw..


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Tom Struble said:


> i would have used the track saw..


Strubles are like that:ninja:


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## Robinson1 (Mar 14, 2014)

D.R. Builders said:


> And as a practical matter, because worm drives are heavier, spin slower and generate more torque, they're better suited to heavy duty ripping, tearing through piles of sheet goods, etc. Direct drive saws spin faster, cut cleaner, and are typically the saw of choice on custom home sites (at least the ones I've worked on).


Also worm drive saws last MUCH longer.

Its not uncommon to see worm drives in daily use that are 10 years old. 

If I get 2 years out of a sidewinder I'm pleased. 

I remember my dad telling me when I first started helping him that a Makita (sidewinder) was good for 1 house, after that it gets put on abrasive blade and demo duty. Then he said a Skilsaw (he was referring to the Mag 77) can build a whole subdivision. Strangely enough dad was a sidewinder fan, and it stuck with me as well.


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## D.R. Builders (Apr 29, 2014)

Robinson1 said:


> Also worm drive saws last MUCH longer.
> 
> Its not uncommon to see worm drives in daily use that are 10 years old.
> 
> ...


I have to say, my experience has been vastly different from yours. My father and I both have USA made Skil worm drive saws that are well over twenty years old that are still used daily. So yes, those saws definitely exceed the ten year mark.

But I also have a USA made Black & Decker direct drive saw from the seventies that is in daily use, and a Dewalt direct drive saw purchased in 99 that's still running strong as ever, all of which have been put through literally dozens of projects, residential and commercial.


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## Robinson1 (Mar 14, 2014)

D.R. Builders said:


> I have to say, my experience has been vastly different from yours. My father and I both have USA made Skil worm drive saws that are well over twenty years old that are still used daily. So yes, those saws definitely exceed the ten year mark.
> 
> But I also have a USA made Black & Decker direct drive saw from the seventies that is in daily use, and a Dewalt direct drive saw purchased in 99 that's still running strong as ever, all of which have been put through literally dozens of projects, residential and commercial.


Sounds like I need to quit buying Makita saws. :laughing:

My dad is out of the construction game for the most part. He took a job about 8 years ago as Maintenance Director at a local apartment complex. The apartment complex supplies his tools now and they buy Hitachi for the most part. I can't remember the model number off hand but he said he really liked the Hitachi sidewinders. Of course they sub everything bigger than normal repairs so the tools he uses now see a work load more comparable to DIY use.

Now I didn't buy into dad's 1 house theory and I use my saws until they die or start cutting out of square. The last couple Makitas I had developed a lot of blade wobble somewhere around the 2 year mark. But these saws get used for everything. Framing, decks, vinyl, sheet goods, demo, the whole 9 yards so to speak. I do keep a "junk" saw around for abrasive blades however. 

But yeah, I can pretty much kill a Makita 5007 in 2 years. Dad was a big Makita fan, his work trucks looked like a rolling Makita showroom. But I've strayed away from Makita for the most part. I tried a Milwaukee and didn't like it. The last time I needed to replace a saw I bought a Bosch CS10. I'm not crazy about it either, and I'm a Bosch fan. So go figure. :laughing:

Is that USA B&D you have a SawCat by any chance? Those were great, I'd love to run across a couple of those in a old hardware store somewhere. I'd pay a premium for a new in box SawCat.


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## D.R. Builders (Apr 29, 2014)

Robinson1 said:


> Is that USA B&D you have a SawCat by any chance? Those were great, I'd love to run across a couple of those in a old hardware store somewhere. I'd pay a premium for a new in box SawCat.


Actually yes, I do have one of those, the Super SawCat. It runs like a pro, too. But the B&D I was referring to is one that has the kind of yellow/brown paint scheme, you'll know the ones if you Google it. 

As far as the Dewalt saw, the model is the DW364. It's still in production, though I believe the table is now a little smaller, and they've gone from the 13A motor to a 15. Can't speak to the reliability of the new ones, but mine has no problem powering through heavy cuts just as well as the new worm drives, or making finish cuts. 

I'm a regular Ebay purchaser and buy USA made tools as I find them. Mag77s, Milwaukee Sawzalls, Holeshooter drills, American made nail guns, you name it. They're cheap! And they RUN, and RUN, and RUN. I just keep them for extras. 

I have three USA made Milwaukee Sawzalls that are heavier, more durable, and absolutely run better than the new ones, and I paid less for the three of them than I would have for one new one.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

The only reason that my worm drive has lasted so long is that it is barely used anymore. It has suffered as many injuries as any sidewinder I have owned. Broken handle, trigger, and recently I got it so hot that a wire inside burnt up. 

I used my worm for a year straight when it was new. Built many stairs, cut many rafters. All in all, it cut just fine. No better than a sidewinder though. It has more to do with the operator than the saw. I just did not like dealing with that heavy of a saw on a daily basis. I also don't think that it cuts any faster or more accurate.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

Tom Struble said:


> i would have used the track saw..



Yeah, why not. 



I was emphasizing free hand cuts using the saw guide. The guide is just another feature on the saws that can help make anyone a better saw man. It helps with posture, and reduces the  debris to the face.



For plunge cuts, how would you do them w/o using the guide? 

(*Pivoting from the leading edge of the foot, guide on the line, plunge.)

...


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I'll point out that how long a saw lasts in everyday use is largely determined by the engineering / manufacturing of the saw.

The think I hate about what lasts longer is by the time you find out a particular saw will last 10-20 years, you just aren't going to buy a new one easily, if at all. You can always get an old one and replace the bearings / recondition it, but that's more work than it's worth IMO.


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## D.R. Builders (Apr 29, 2014)

hdavis said:


> The think I hate about what lasts longer is by the time you find out a particular saw will last 10-20 years, you just aren't going to buy a new one easily, if at all. You can always get an old one and replace the bearings / recondition it, but that's more work than it's worth IMO.


I have to disagree with that. There are very few tools I buy new, in fact the only newly purchased power tools I own are my two Dewalt impact drivers. 

I buy used power tools almost exclusively, because the quality and durability is higher. So far, the only work I've had to do on any of them are a couple new power cords, one on my Hilti drywall gun and a sawzall, and some acetone to get the paint off of a Hitachi framing nailer that the last guy sprayed on it. 

DEFINITELY worth the combined hour or two i spent on those tools.


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## Birch (Jul 20, 2009)

I have so many PC 315-1 saws I won't live long enough to kill them all. I have a grave yard of dead ones to scavenge from too along with boxes of replacement parts. (You can buy better replacement bearings than are original to most saws and they'll last longer the second time around) Rebuilding them is easy and fun and doing so really teaches you about them and the good/bad engineering behind them. Tool maintenance is just part of the gig. 


I don't believe there is any such thing as a Direct-drive circular saw. They all have gear boxes. I have never seen one that bolts the blade directly to the armature shaft. (?)


PC really screwed up when they discontinued that model. The best tool they make is barely good enough. . . and discontinued. :sad:

...


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Birch said:


> I don't believe there is any such thing as a Direct-drive circular saw. They all have gear boxes. I have never seen one that bolts the blade directly to the armature shaft. (?)


My screw up from not having taken one apart and looked. You are correct, at least when I check the models I have.


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## D.R. Builders (Apr 29, 2014)

Birch said:


> I don't believe there is any such thing as a Direct-drive circular saw. They all have gear boxes. I have never seen one that bolts the blade directly to the armature shaft.
> ...


I've always used the term "direct drive" simply to mean a "side winder" type saw.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

asgoodasdead said:


> you mean one with the blade on the right side? that would be a lefthand model. unless you like tweaking your neck to look over the top of the saw to see the blade.


I disagree with blade right being a left handed saw, but that's just because I'm left handed.


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## jiffy (Oct 21, 2007)

After reading this, go buy a cordless saw and don't look back. I'm thinking about how nice not having a cord could really be with a saw, finally.

http://www.coptool.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-vs-makita-18vx2-cordless-circular-saw-showdown/


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## m1911 (Feb 24, 2009)

jiffy said:


> After reading this, go buy a cordless saw and don't look back. I'm thinking about how nice not having a cord could really be with a saw, finally.
> 
> http://www.coptool.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-vs-makita-18vx2-cordless-circular-saw-showdown/


Cordless have their place, but won't replace my Bosch worm drive *for me*.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

jiffy said:


> After reading this, go buy a cordless saw and don't look back. I'm thinking about how nice not having a cord could really be with a saw, finally.
> 
> http://www.coptool.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-vs-makita-18vx2-cordless-circular-saw-showdown/


pipe dream


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## kyle_dmr (Mar 17, 2009)

Warren said:


> pipe dream


Never survive a framing crew. 
Hell we pull 4 saws out at least per day. Chop saw most days as well. 
Cordless has it's perks. Not for production.


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## TheGrizz (Sep 16, 2011)

I have a PC 423 MAG, which is a blade left sidewinder, so I have the best of both worlds. Light weight of the sidewinder, especially with the MAG sole plate, and blade left, so I can watch the blade or the guide or both without craning my neck. Incidentally, I'm left handed, but primarily cut with my right because I learned from my right handed dad on a blade right saw. Benefit of that is that I can use a blade right saw with my left hand and still make a straight cut if I want. Sometimes it's nice to be different.


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## loneframer (Feb 13, 2009)

Cordless saw works great for a quick rip of PVC sheets or a few crosscuts at the lumberyard. Aside from that, a cord is nowhere near as aggravating as changing a battery every three to five minutes of continuous sawing.


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## Kevin M. (Feb 28, 2010)

loneframer said:


> Cordless saw works great for a quick rip of PVC sheets or a few crosscuts at the lumberyard. Aside from that,* a cord is nowhere near as aggravating as changing a battery every three to five minutes of continuous sawing*.


That's the final word. I'm done buying cordless circ saws, sawzalls and jigsaws. they all suck. If you can't run a power tool with a cord on it, you need to go back to apprentice school or get retrained, or work at Wal Mart. :whistling


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## D.R. Builders (Apr 29, 2014)

Kevin M. said:


> If you can't run a power tool with a cord on it, you need to go back to apprentice school or get retrained, or work at Wal Mart. :whistling


Gotta disagree with you there boss. Cordless tools definitely have their place. 

I've found my cordless Dewalt circular saw to be incredibly convenient when doing things like laying down a blueboard subslab on houses. It'll cut through stuff like that all day long, it's perfect because a sheetrock knife (or "keyhole saw" to those who insist on splitting hairs) would take too long, but a full blown corded saw is just overkill.


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