# Refinishing an Exterior Ceiling



## jhicks (Dec 15, 2014)

I've been asked to refinish a tongue and groove exterior ceiling and exposed beam. It has been stained in the past but that's about all I know.
What would be the best way to tackle this? Quick 120 sand then another coat of stain? 
With the beam being completely exposed to sun and the elements, will stain alone do it or is there a better way.

Thanks


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## jhicks (Dec 15, 2014)

Here is a shot of the beam.


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

In order to give you a good answer, I'd need to know:

-what your customer wants, (re-stain same shade, different, etc.)
-what stain is currently on the wood, as specific as you could possibly be. If you don't know the original stain, you'll need to strip the existing stain to insure adequate penetration and a uniform finish.


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

jhicks said:


> I've been asked to refinish a tongue and groove exterior ceiling and exposed beam. It has been stained in the past but that's about all I know.
> What would be the best way to tackle this? Quick 120 sand then another coat of stain?
> With the beam being completely exposed to sun and the elements, will stain alone do it or is there a better way.
> 
> Thanks


Stripping overhead is no fun task. Depending upon how thick the stain is and whether or not you're familiar with chems, you might decide to sand versus chemically strip. I posted this on PT last week about a job I did 2 weeks ago. 

Garage door had a few old coats of Olympic and a coat of Behr, all acrylic stain. I was there for annual washing of the house and this was an add-on, so I used what I had, which was F-18, (sodium hydroxide), along with some Potash Flakes, Butyl & Glycol to boost the mix, (since acrylics are tougher to strip than oils), applied in a pump sprayer and allowed to dwell for 5 min, then reapplied, 5 minutes later I hosed it off with a garden hose. This was after my initial wash of 3% bleach, Elemonator & Cing-On, a surfactant, (soap), which helps it cling to the surface and keeps the mix wet & working at full strength. I also added the Elemonator & Cling-On to the F-18. 

The 2nd pic was after I applied the F-18. The sodium hydrox in the F-18 darkens the wood, and throws the pH way out of wack.

3rd pic was after I applied the F-8, let it dwell for 10 min, then hosed off. The F-8 is an Oxalic Acid which brightens the wood and restores the pH to a safe level for re-coat.

The Elemonator, Cling-On, F-18 & F-8 I got at www.pressuretek.com
Butyl Cellosolve & Propylene Glycol from www.chemistrystore.com
Bleach & Potash from local supplier.

I also repeated the process to their front door, which was oak. Start-to-finish for cleaning, stripping, & brightening was 1.5hrs.


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## carzie (May 21, 2013)

What Troy said +1, some stains are meant as a 1 coat system so you can't just simply scuff and re apply another coat of stain, it will fail prematurely especially on the exposed beam. 

A chemical strip will be risky, if they are not dead set on keeping that look there's always solid stain


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## jhicks (Dec 15, 2014)

stelzerpainting said:


> In order to give you a good answer, I'd need to know:
> 
> -what your customer wants, (re-stain same shade, different, etc.)
> -what stain is currently on the wood, as specific as you could possibly be. If you don't know the original stain, you'll need to strip the existing stain to insure adequate penetration and a uniform finish.


stelzerpainting:
Customer wants re-stain same shade
I asked them today and they didn't for sure. The owner of the building seems to think it was a Penofin product, but isn't certain.

That's about as much as they know.


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## Caslon (Dec 15, 2007)

jhicks said:


> I've been asked to refinish a tongue and groove exterior ceiling and exposed beam. It has been stained in the past but that's about all I know.
> What would be the best way to tackle this? Quick 120 sand then another coat of stain?
> With the beam being completely exposed to sun and the elements, will stain alone do it or is there a better way.
> 
> Thanks


See? Questions like this just don't belong here.
To the OP...how about you do it and tell us what you learned? 

Or...just read the label.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Caslon said:


> See? Questions like this just don't belong here.
> To the OP...how about you do it and tell us what you learned?
> 
> Or...just read the label.


Are you this thick in real life? Jeez.

In this thread alone I learned more about stripping a garage door than I had a clue about. Isn't that what this place is for?

When the "state" gave you thier license did you have to sign a douchebag contract.


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## jhicks (Dec 15, 2014)

Hey Caslon- it's arrogant pieces that don't belong here. Maybe there's a forum for whiney contractors? Just a thought.


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## stelzerpainting (Feb 27, 2014)

jhicks said:


> stelzerpainting:
> Customer wants re-stain same shade
> I asked them today and they didn't for sure. The owner of the building seems to think it was a Penofin product, but isn't certain.
> 
> That's about as much as they know.


Ya, like I said, if you don't know what's on there, you can't just apply new stain over it. Gotta be stripped. Take some pics and post results. PM me for any questions if needed.


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## jhicks (Dec 15, 2014)

stelzerpainting said:


> Ya, like I said, if you don't know what's on there, you can't just apply new stain over it. Gotta be stripped. Take some pics and post results. PM me for any questions if needed.


Thank you. I might just contact you.


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## Jmayspaint (Apr 20, 2014)

I've had to strip a couple like that. Never was brave enough to try chemicals, just seemed too risky/messy. I've always sanded them. 

This one had a failed acrylic polyurethane on it. Mildew had grown in and under the film. No way to remove it without stripping. Finished it with Sikkens L&S natural. 

















I remember averaging 10 sqft per hour on the sanding. The beams were in good shape thankfully, just had to strip the T&G. 

Another good reason for random question threads, an excuse to post random job pics


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## Quality_PTG (May 9, 2011)

I would recommend a good clean (like what stelzer recommended) and a decent sand. 

Maybe go for an emulsion type stain from flood. As much as I dislike BM arbourcoat is pretty good too.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Caslon said:


> See? Questions like this just don't belong here.
> To the OP...how about you do it and tell us what you learned?
> 
> Or...just read the label.


Let me translate as I am fluent in pompous a$$;

I have no clue how to accomplish what you ask, but I'll berate you for asking.

Tom


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## jhicks (Dec 15, 2014)

Well, I'm throwing in the towel on this one. I am a very finicky contractor that does things properly. I'm not willing to take the chance of screwing this up big time. So, I have contacted a painter friend with 20+ years experience and we are going to do this job together. I want to be able to help on the job so I can acquire the knowledge.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

jhicks said:


> Well, I'm throwing in the towel on this one. I am a very finicky contractor that does things properly. I'm not willing to take the chance of screwing this up big time. So, I have contacted a painter friend with 20+ years experience and we are going to do this job together. I want to be able to help on the job so I can acquire the knowledge.


A wise man.


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