# Best way to fasten plywood forms to concrete block?



## SK Remodeling (Feb 8, 2009)

For the past 3 years I've been doing 90% finish carpentry. I recently was asked to bid a forming job. I'm from florida where the shell is built in concrete block and then a solid concrete tie-beam is poured on top of the walls. 

In the past I've worked with contractors who used case hardened coil nails to shoot the plywood on. And one contractor I worked for tapcnned all the forms on. Shooting the nails seemed to be a quicker way to go, but taking the forms off with the tapcons was nice and clean. 

I just figured I'd ask to see if anyone had any thoughts on this matter. Also does anyone know what brand coil nailer shoots the hardened nails?
I appreciate any info...

THANKS


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## rbsremodeling (Nov 12, 2007)

sk071077 said:


> For the past 3 years I've been doing 90% finish carpentry. I recently was asked to bid a forming job. I'm from florida where the shell is built in concrete block and then a solid concrete tie-beam is poured on top of the walls.
> 
> In the past I've worked with contractors who used case hardened coil nails to shoot the plywood on. And one contractor I worked for tapcnned all the forms on. Shooting the nails seemed to be a quicker way to go, but taking the forms off with the tapcons was nice and clean.
> 
> ...



Mam, around here we use Cut nails and a hammer


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## BigLou80 (May 20, 2008)

I would use tapcon even though ramsets are faster just for the ease of removing them, but I don't pour bond beams day in and day out so maybe you don't want to listen to me


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## rustyjames (Aug 28, 2008)

sk071077 said:


> For the past 3 years I've been doing 90% finish carpentry. I recently was asked to bid a forming job. I'm from florida where the shell is built in concrete block and then a solid concrete tie-beam is poured on top of the walls.
> 
> In the past I've worked with contractors who used case hardened coil nails to shoot the plywood on. And one contractor I worked for tapcnned all the forms on. Shooting the nails seemed to be a quicker way to go, but taking the forms off with the tapcons was nice and clean.
> 
> ...


I think the tapcons are the way to go. They really don't take that long to install and you can reuse them.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Good Lord. A "T" nailer is the absolute ONLY way to go. It takes about 6 seconds to nail on a 2' x 8' 3/4" plywood form side for a lintel run. Put all the sides on the house in about 45 minutes, then you go up top and slap lintel clamps on the whole mess. It's a three hour-two man job, complete, for a 2,500sf house. (OK, maybe a little longer... and three men make it a lot easier...:whistling )

Almost all of the 7/8" (or 1" or 1-1/8" if you can't find the 7/8") "T" nails pull right off with the plywood, and the ones that don't, a kid can go around and pull out quickly with a crowbar in about 30 minutes.

Don't even think of using anything but a "T" nailer. And you can rent the lintel clamps almost anywhere.

But I have to ask, why the heck you aren't using lintel blocks instead? Let the masons do all the work.

Here's a picture file with the idea....


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## AtlanticWBConst (Mar 29, 2006)

IMHO - I'd leave the forming to form carpenters. You are attemtping to take too big of a leap out of your finished carpentry realm.


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## SK Remodeling (Feb 8, 2009)

thanks....especially wiilie t


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## strightclaw (Feb 16, 2009)

4 penny cut nail


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## DavidG19 (Sep 10, 2005)

I suggest an ET&F Fastening Systems Model 210 t-nailer. It shoots heat treated t nails from 1" to 2-1/2".


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## SWAY79 (Nov 26, 2008)

rustyjames said:


> I think the tapcons are the way to go. They really don't take that long to install and you can reuse them.


Definetly Tap-Con, if you use a ram set or even hand driven ram set nails you risk cracking or spalding the block. When you use the Tap-Con system, the pilot hole usualy prevents that, but not always.



GOOD LUCK:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## maurisgreen (Feb 20, 2009)

*Best way to fasten plywood forms to concrete block? Best way to fasten plywood forms*

Hello

I am not used it !

I will use than say anything !

ok !:laughing:


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

SWAY79 said:


> Definetly Tap-Con, if you use a ram set or even hand driven ram set nails you risk cracking or spalding the block. When you use the Tap-Con system, the pilot hole usualy prevents that, but not always.
> 
> 
> 
> GOOD LUCK:thumbsup::thumbsup:


On clean outs I have had tapcons fail, never had a failure when I used a T Nailer.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

Tap Cons in my opinion.

Pilot hole keeps it secure, and creates ease of removal. Just don't strip em' out.


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## SWAY79 (Nov 26, 2008)

bwalley said:


> On clean outs I have had tapcons fail, never had a failure when I used a T Nailer.


You may be right, I've never heard of a "T" nailer. I may know it by a different name. How does it work? What does it look like?


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

SWAY79 said:


> You may be right, I've never heard of a "T" nailer. I may know it by a different name. How does it work? What does it look like?


Type - T Nailer - into your Google window. Click on <images>.


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## bwalley (Jan 7, 2009)

SWAY79 said:


> You may be right, I've never heard of a "T" nailer. I may know it by a different name. How does it work? What does it look like?


http://www.thefloorpro.com/communit.../3430d1199059783-duo-fast-t-nailer-rs-t-n.jpg


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## kaitlin (Mar 9, 2009)

I hope to run a wall parallel to the joists, but not directly underneath a joist, screw a 2 × 4 bridge every 2' to 3' to the joists. Screw the top plate to the bridges.
If you have no pipes at the ceiling, screw the bridge between the joists rather than under them.
We opted to build the wall directly below a joist, so we didn't bother with bridges. To allow clearance for pipes and conduit, we screwed blocks of 2 × 4 to the joist, and then attached the top plate to the blocks.


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