# Delta Pop-Up Grief!



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Got a double vanity with all brass
Delta pop-ups (RP26533 if it matters).
I've tightened them til it's scary,
and they both still leak down
the threads below the rubber gasket.
This isn't my first rodeo, but this is 
the first time I've had this problem.
The bowls are cast something or other,
and they are dead flat on the bottom
where the drain hole is...not at all
"concave".
It seems like the shape of the hole is 
pulling the top of the gasket open
as the nut tightens.
I'm thinking of trying a smaller 
"repair gasket" on top of the one supplied
with the faucets, out of desperation.
Partner wants to slather the threads 
with silicone!
Any one got any tricks or ideas?
Can't get my plumber out til Friday, and
I really need to get this solved so that I 
can pull a much needed draw tomorrow.


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## Ron The Plumber (Oct 10, 2006)

Slop some pipe dope on the gasket tighten and see if that stops it.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Slop some pipe dope on the gasket tighten and see if that stops it.


Thanks.

Does this crap come up all the time?
Or have I just been lucky all these years?


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## Sewerologist (Dec 25, 2006)

Teflon tape the daylights out of the threads and dope up the gasket with Rectorseal. This has been an ongoing problem over the years with "square cut" sink outlets. The taper in the outlet isn't there to force the gasket tight against the PO threads. Make your own seal at that point. Silicone works too. Let it dry.


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## Ron The Plumber (Oct 10, 2006)

I always dope the gasket, also make sure you did not leave out the friction ring.

Delta pop-ups are known leakers, it's a hit and miss thing.


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

If the pop ups are chrome throw them out and install Gerber 43-973 pop-ups.

Delta drains are known for leaking like a sieve, they are worse than Danze or Water Works drains, which is why we stock the Gerbers at our shop.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Ron The Plumber said:


> I always dope the gasket, also make sure you did not leave out the friction gasket.
> 
> Delta pop-ups are known leakers, it's a hit and miss thing.


Guess I've just used up my luck 
after all these years...
never came up before, and this is
Delta country!
Thanks again.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

KillerToiletSpi said:


> If the pop ups are chrome throw them out and install Gerber 43-973 pop-ups.
> 
> Delta drains are known for leaking like a sieve, they are worse than Danze or Water Works drains, which is why we stock the Gerbers at our shop.


Good to have a fall back position.
They have one with a brushed 
SS flange?


Edit:
Looks like chrome only.
Wonder if the Delta flange
would thread in there?


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## Ron The Plumber (Oct 10, 2006)

I mentioned this trick in the Tricks of the Trade thread.


http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?p=345943#post345943


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Ron The Plumber said:


> I mentioned this trick in the Tricks of the Trade thread.
> http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?p=345943#post345943


Sorry I missed that.
I did try a "search" before I posted
but my batting average is pretty
low with that....
I never seem to guess the secret word!:laughing:
"Pop" and "Up" are apparently to short.


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

neolitic said:


> Good to have a fall back position.
> They have one with a brushed
> SS flange?
> 
> ...


They make decorative finish faucets, but I would have to call the rep to get just a pop up, they are based in Delphi Indiana, the local plumbing supply house should be able to help.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

KillerToiletSpi said:


> They make decorative finish faucets, but I would have to call the rep to get just a pop up, they are based in Delphi Indiana, the local plumbing supply house should be able to help.


If Ron's trick doesn't work
I think I'll take one of the
flanges to the supply and 
see if they work.
Every time the partner goes
weak kneed and lets the HO
supply stuff I wind up
in one of these messes!:laughing:


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## masterk (Dec 29, 2007)

The threads are machine threads so I always put a little silcone on the threads and the washer. Never have a problem anymore, this is now a standard process.


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## 3Kings Plumbing (Jan 2, 2008)

*Delta*

We had a similar problem But the sink wasn't thick enough. The rubber ring wouldn't seal because we ran out of threads we tried 3 metal washers first it didn't work so what we did was installed 2 rubber washers and tighten the piss out of it. after that it didn't leak an more.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

3Kings Plumbing said:


> We had a similar problem But the sink wasn't thick enough. The rubber ring wouldn't seal because we ran out of threads we tried 3 metal washers first it didn't work so what we did was installed 2 rubber washers and tighten the piss out of it. after that it didn't leak an more.


The bowl is plenty thick enough!
It's some kind of cast china-like stuff.
The bottom has no "concavity" to it,
and inside the bowl where the flange sits
it's to deeply concave for the flange to
really conform. I'm afraid to much
torque and the stainless flange will 
just punch through.
....double bowl factory underhung 
on cultured granite top....
not one I want to crack just now!:laughing:


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## Double-A (Jul 3, 2006)

I find that using a small rope of putty on the gasket will also get it to seal. I use Rectorseal T+2 or #5 on the threads before assembly. If its a cultured product, then I would use the T+2.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Double-A said:


> I find that using a small rope of putty on the gasket will also get it to seal. I use Rectorseal T+2 or #5 on the threads before assembly. If its a cultured product, then I would use the T+2.


Yeah, must be cultured something
or other, it feels like un-glazed china.
I'd call it a bisque finish.
Pardon my ignorance, but how is the
T+2 different to the Oatey teflon dope?
I've only used Rectorseal on gas (#5?).


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## Ron The Plumber (Oct 10, 2006)

Don't worry about those pipe dope numbers, just get some type of pipe dope, and slop it on, or silicone, they will all do the job and get it to seal. I use megaloc pipe dope.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Don't worry about those pipe dope numbers, just get some type of pipe dope, and slop it on, or silicone, they will all do the job and get it to seal. I use megaloc pipe dope.


Cool!:notworthy


I'd never get in a fight between 
Snoopy and an armed cat!:laughing::laughing:


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## smellslike$tome (Jan 22, 2006)

This is interesting because although it's been several years since I consistently installed Delta products, I don't remember the pop-ups having this problem nor do I find them in this condition in homes that have Delta (which seems to be virtually every home around here). I do not care for Delta for other reasons but the king of crappy pop-up assembles has got to be Price Pfister. When ho's drag this stuff home and then call me to install it I have to tell them we use a different pop-up or we can't install it. About 1/2 the time we end up selling them another faucet with a decent pop-up and if not, we charge them extra for the extra time it will take to tweak that plastic pop-up at least until we can get out the door (we have sternly warned them that it will leak sooner or later before we ever touch it). If it isn't obvious already we give NO WARRANTY.


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