# Retaining wall project



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Filled the last two weeks doing small jobs just trying to stay busy whilst the Township drug their feet approving my wall project permit.

It's my hometown actually, so I know the folks involved and their actually a pretty good bunch of peeps  

Even small jobs like this need to go though the planning commission which meets every Tuesday night and through zoning. Usually takes about a week to gather all the signatures then your good to go if everything's cool. Seems as though one guy is on vacation so that's what's holding things up.

Never mind, I'm gettin' started anyway :whistling... soon as I get this round in :thumbup:


----------



## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

planning commission for that? i didn't know you lived in berkeley. :laughing:
this isn't a historic area or anything is it?


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Some of you may remember this place from last year. We did the patio, walk, steps, sidewalk and curb. Owner wanted a natural brick retaining wall but couldn't swing it at the time but promised next season,...here we are and he's good to his word. Gotta admire people like that in my book.

Anyway, he actually installed this wall himself 30 years ago so he says. Held up pretty good considering it only four inches thick and nailed together :laughing:

I'll give him one of the 12 spikes he pounded it together with as a keepsake for old memories while I pleasurably demo this eyesore and take it to the dump.

Couldn't up sell any raised pilasters or fancy stuff on this one - owner wants basic so owners getting basic...simple 10" thick running bond brick masonry wall with 2" PA bluestone caps.

Still gotta appreciate the guy for choosing traditional masonry...I really don't get a chance do many of these anymore with all the current hardscape products.

This is what it'll probably look like when I'm done, same kinda brick - except with steps in the center.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

aptpupil said:


> planning commission for that? i didn't know you lived in berkeley. :laughing:
> this isn't a historic area or anything is it?


Not this area thank god - that's a whole nother bag of chips :laughing:

The old time BI who retired would give me this permit over the counter and sign the back of his card..."Okay to start, permit in progress". 

I use to love that guy :thumbup:

It's all changed now - new blood in the office with the certified inspectors the state now requires and it's just the way it is :sad:


----------



## Fundi (Jan 5, 2009)

what do you put on the soil side to stop bricks from getting moist and wet?


----------



## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

"Pookie", asphaltic mastic is used around here in that application.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

T has it - I'll use a parge coat over the 6" block and "pookie" as he likes to call it :laughing: over that up to grade. Wall will also receive 1ft thick crushed stone drainage w/ 4" perf pipe which will bleed out through open head joint weeps in the front in the front of the wall. 

As we all know, drainage is key for long term survival of any retaining wall.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

The permit still ain't ready pick up so I'm told, but I'm getting started with it anyway. At least I can take the old wall down and start digging the footing. A 12" x 3' deep monopour was specified and I'll bell the bottoms out to sixteen for good measure. 

Not long into the job and I've already hit a snag...Nieghbors water line runs parallel in my footing as proposed and I'm not sure how to handle this. Got a call into the water co. to see If i can get some guidance as I haven't run into this before.

I had had all of the utilities marked and it showed two waterlines about two feet apart and gas service in this one section. Normally a one inch sleeve and I'm pouring concrete if it's perpendicular, but I'm not sure about parallel. 

Neighbors line actually grades up in the footing trench as shallow as 
24" - out frost line around here is 36". What's up with that - normally their much deeper and I hardly ever run into them with a 3' excavation.

Guess I'll have to see what they say about this - definitely don't want any problems with the utilities If i can help it.


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

I would be panicking probably myself, interesting to see what you come up with, hopefully your boots dont take a beating lol.


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

That is probably the nicest dug hole i have seen in a while I must say.


----------



## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

JBM said:


> That is probably the nicest dug hole i have seen in a while I must say.


Was thinking the same thing. Never be able to do that around here.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Ya, I know what you mean by rocky soil. Fortunately this area is mostly clayish after about a foot of topsoil. 

Still no answer on the water line - got a call in but no return yet. 

The one side is all dug - just gonna call for a pre-pour and see what the inspector thinks. Hoping I can dig out a bigger footprint in that area and add extra rebar - off course in combination with a humongous sleeve.

Anybody else with any thoughts short of moving it?


----------



## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

All I can think of is sleeve it. Unless the gas co. is opposed to it....move on.

Nice clean work Super.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Finally spoke to the inspector at his office yesterday and much like the permit lady said, I was approved to start work. 

Had to fess up and told him I already did :thumbup: No big deal he say's,...can't expect you to wait for signatures on vacation so I conveniently asked for a pre-pour inspection while I was there. 

He came right down to the job, but I only had one side complete :blink: 

Had to explain I don't like leaving earthen forms open too long during questionable weather as heavy rains can ruin it fast. If I got to pour this thing quick, I wanna be able to do so.

Once again, no problem...did'nt even wanna come back to check on the other side after seeing what we're doing :whistling

That's definitely the type of relationship I shoot for with inspectors - mutual trust, mutual respect. Goes along way in the end I find.

Now gettin' back to work...Got away with sleeving both water mains with 1" thick foam to allow for any potential movement and continued on digging the other side. 

Hot work this is...this place is all sun


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

My main worry from day one was not getting any rain prior to pouring the footing. Two downspout leaders tie together and are hard piped underground on the neighbors side and discharge near that right side fence post. Needless to say, it would be like opening a fire hose into the footing where the utilities are and I'd hate to have to dig that out again :no: 

No matter, weather looks good and should be pouring today - till i woke up this morning and a wicked thunderstorm was rolling by. Where the hell did that come from 

Thank god it only skirted us, so not much rain with this one.

Quick call to my buddy and 5 yards is on it's way :thumbsup:


----------



## stuart45 (Oct 7, 2009)

Looking good superseal. I see you have got the buckets for the scaffold ready on site:laughing: How high's the wall going?


----------



## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

I see you did the front steps as well.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

stuart45 said:


> Looking good superseal. I see you have got the buckets for the scaffold ready on site:laughing: How high's the wall going?


Thanks Stu...those buckets are for my arse on this one :laughing: wall is only going up a couple of feet :thumbup:

Now only if I could buy some shade :sweatdrop: This heat wave sucks


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So I poured the footing on Friday and called it a day...wicked heat for sure and I was beat anyway. Saturday got up late and hit two local suppliers trying to stock up for tomorrow. Picked up some 6" hollows, sand, cement and lime. 

I normally only use my buddy chugo's place for concrete, sand, cement and most supplies. But when it comes to block, it's Fizzano Bros. In business since 1935 and right around the corner from me, it's a no brainer. 

This place makes everything block that's for sure.

Damn my boots are looking beat up! Time for some extra fancy tallow.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Was short on rebar, wall ties, etc...so I got a late start today 

No matter - off loaded some block, cement, lime and sand and made a run. While I was out, Elaine from the permit office called and said permit pickup was ready :thumbup: about damn time I say :whistling...anyway after some BS chatting with the inspector I was on my way. Only other inspection he wants on this job is prior to backfill /drainage. Told him no problem, I'll call ya when I'm ready. 

No helper this week - I beat him up pretty bad last week and I think he's recouping down the shore.

Oh well,... like I ain't used to working by myself anyway :whistling

I wet set random rebar left over from the footing knowing I'd be drilling and doweling additional rebar anyway. Just easier to do once the block is laid out for a little wall like this and I was too lazy to figure it out the day i poured the footing anyway 

No matter, It's keyed in pretty well :thumbup:


----------



## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

saftey first and a mudboard :O)...lookin good


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I'm laying block this morning minding my own business when a guy and gal pull up and park across the street. Green van, out of state tags and equipped with a Makita chipper hammer. Turns out they're replacing 4 sidewalk blocks the hard way :blink:

Took them about six hours to prep these up. Damn girl worked like a maniac. 

Wait a minute...I should hire her :laughing:

Another sunny, hot, blistering day...can't seem to get any relief on this job 

Hope these two aren't fellow CT'ers and recognize themselves


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Looking pretty smooth! What are you capping the wall with?


----------



## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

looks real sweet as always.
pardon the amateur question, but why didn't you put in drain rock at the base of the footing? i assume your drainage is going just at the bottom of the block wall?


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

JBM said:


> Looking pretty smooth! What are you capping the wall with?


PA thermal bluestone caps and full range mat brick to match house I'm hoping. Galantino supply is my choice for this.

http://galantino.com/


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

aptpupil said:


> looks real sweet as always.
> pardon the amateur question, but why didn't you put in drain rock at the base of the footing? i assume your drainage is going just at the bottom of the block wall?


I not really concerned about drainage under the footing as much as drainage behind the wall in this application. Yes, still a lot of soil to be removed from behind the wall for my helper when he comes back :thumbup: That area receives a one foot wide cut down to the base and is filled with clean 3/4 stone, fabric and 4" perf pipe.


----------



## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

just had to dig out a 40' x 18" trench in hard clay soil. rotohammer and clay spade will be your helper's best friend. :thumbsup:


----------



## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

Looking great superseal!:thumbup: I also like that detail you did on those steps, I've never seen that before.



Dave


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So I finished the one side and moved over to the other. Was gonna be short on block so I had to make another run. No biggie, just up the road. Spent the rest of the afternoon baking in the sun laying out the other side. These ain't gotta look pretty- just on the mark.

Gotta be a better way of makin' a buck :no:


----------



## oktex56 (Dec 30, 2011)

Nice work Superseal!

It's amazing how much work goes into building a proper retaining wall.

I too like the detail on the step nose. Have a trowel for that? I have seen a couple years ago.

There are some huge retaining walls built in STL. They build on goat hills there.

Steve:thumbup:


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I keep looking for holes in the block for the perf pipe to go through but I don't see it. Where will it drain?


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

dom-mas said:


> I keep looking for holes in the block for the perf pipe to go through but I don't see it. *Where will it drain*?


I could always core out the holes if you like, but i normally just leave open heads on the first course - perf pipe goes behind the wall.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

oktex56 said:


> Nice work Superseal!
> 
> It's amazing how much work goes into building a proper retaining wall.
> 
> ...


Yep, trowel and chamfer strip enables an easy bullnose. Well, sorta easy.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

A few more for those unfimiliar...


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

superseal said:


> I could always core out the holes if you like, but i normally just leave open heads on the first course - perf pipe goes behind the wall.


Interesting. I usually either see the pipe exiting at the side somewhere or on a wall that has the sides closed, through tee's that go through the wall. Do you think the water will get trapped between the brick and the sidewalk?


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

superseal said:


> A few more for those unfimiliar...


Daaaaaang


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

dom-mas said:


> Interesting. I usually either see the pipe exiting at the side somewhere or on a wall that has the sides closed, through tee's that go through the wall. Do you think the water will get trapped between the brick and the sidewalk?


That's fine too Dom - many ways of doing this. I just don't like big pipe penetrations.

Are far as trapping water, wall gets grouted up to sidewalk level between wythes and I'll use a mortar net above that to keep droppings from pluggin them up.


----------



## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

superseal said:


> A few more for those unfimiliar...


nice...need to get me one of them bullnose jointers


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

superseal said:


> That's fine too Dom - many ways of doing this. I just don't like big pipe penetrations.
> 
> Are far as trapping water, wall gets grouted up to sidewalk level between wythes and I'll use a mortar net above that to keep droppings from pluggin them up.



I agree those big openings are ugly. Then you have to buy an ornamental grill to keep the critter out. Just never seen it done that way.


----------



## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

it;ll take more than bars to keep me put.............:whistling


----------



## oktex56 (Dec 30, 2011)

Cool tool Super.

The ones I saw didn't have the inset below, or 45.

It gives your work a cool distinction, love it!:thumbsup:


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

oktex56 said:


> Cool tool Super.
> 
> The ones I saw didn't have the inset below, or 45.
> 
> *It gives your work a cool distinction, love it!:thumbs up*:


Don't get me wrong here, Supe's work, does certainly have a cool distinction, but, that detail is pretty common around these parts. Admittedly, its becoming less and less recreated as time goes by.
But, with preservationists like Superseal and others like him, many of these details will remain for future generations to appreciate.

D.


----------



## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

superseal said:


> A few more for those unfimiliar...


The steps are nice but the patio really really rocks. 

Any idea where to buy a similar set? I'd do it tomorrow.

Also whats you technique for scoring the nice decorative lines in the top of the patio? Special Tool beyond the handheld groover?

I know i'm seinding this thread onto a bunnytrail and all, but I'd like to know.


----------



## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Diamond D. said:


> Don't get me wrong here, Supe's work, does certainly have a cool distinction, but, that detail is pretty common around these parts. Admittedly, its becoming less and less recreated as time goes by.
> But, with preservationists like Superseal and others like him, many of these details will remain for future generations to appreciate.
> 
> D.


I've never seen it here, in the south....i'd like to start using this technique as it is a nice way to spruce up boring gray 'crete.


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

lukachuki said:


> The steps are nice but the patio really really rocks.
> 
> Any idea where to buy a similar set? I'd do it tomorrow.
> 
> ...


A straight edge.

Notice the tool on the left, in post #33, now that is also a cool tool that can be used creatively, but mostly used for tread traction.
I haven't seen one in quite some time, but there is even a much bigger one that you put on your bull float handle for larger areas.

D.


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

lukachuki said:


> Any idea where to buy a similar set? I'd do it tomorrow.


 Had to check and see if they had a web site.
They have much more, than what is shown, but it is a start.

http://www.abcspecialtiesinc.net/mas4.html

Good luck,
D.


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

CanCritter said:


> it;ll take more than bars to keep me put.............:whistling


hahhahahahahahahaha


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

lukachuki said:


> The steps are nice but the patio really really rocks.
> 
> Any idea where to buy a similar set? I'd do it tomorrow.
> 
> ...


http://www.stortz.com/index.asp?category=25460&count=1

Snap a string line in the fresh crete and have at it with a straight edge and groover.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

BTW that traction tool is also made by Stortz but is no longer available since the die broke or so I'm told. Too expensive to make new again so it's been discontinued. Nobody really uses them anymore so I guess it's justified on Stortz behalf,... but a shame to see them go.

Other are available but nothing like that one pictured. Current models are stainless and much deeper grooves which I really don't like. 

Anyway, If anyone can find one...let me know. I only have one left of that tool and gone for good if I lose it :sad:


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Off yesterday of course but back at it today - this heat wave here is starting to bug me I'll tell ya  At least I have power unlike a million or so others south of me.

So friggin hot out I had to upgrade my umbrella set up. Ran over to the local big box and picked up some shade yesterday and I put it to use today. Well worth the investment :thumbsup:

Still had some block to finish up, then ran out to Galantino supply to check out the brick selection.

Ended up picking up about half on what I'll need so I'll be making another trip shorty to pick up more. Brick selection will be McAvoy full range fine red mattex modular solid and I think it should match the house well. 

Hey, that guy and gal tag team where back today to pour the sidewalk across the street. He drops her off with all the gear a she handled the rest. Gotta hand it to her - she works hard and ain't afraid to get dirty...just don't see that all the time.

My buddy Chugo's company handled the delivery.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So here's a shot of my own homemade mortar net which will keep the weeps free and clear of droppings and allow the wall to properly drain out. Actually it's flow free gutter-guard material which easy cuts with scissors. Lay a base piece down , then cut little keystone shapes and set the in between wythes. Since I'm shooting for a 10" wall thickness, the gap is 3/4"...perfect fit.

I'm just raking it out for now...I'll go back and point her up in one shot when i'm done cleaning etc..


----------



## 6stringmason (May 20, 2005)

Nice pics, and progress Superseal! 

Wheres the guy that was on here a while back to holler at you like he did me about using wall ties like that in block work lol?


----------



## darr1 (May 25, 2010)

superseal said:


> Yep, trowel and chamfer strip enables an easy bullnose. Well, sorta easy.


never seeen a trowel like that over here , have to look into it


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

6stringmason said:


> Nice pics, and progress Superseal!
> 
> Wheres the guy that was on here a while back to holler at you like he did me about using wall ties like that in block work lol?


Funny you should say :laughing: I was thinkin' about that and almost didn't use them,...then I came to my senses.

Wait till he sees my homemade mortar net :thumbsup:


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Had a couple of appointments this morning I had to take care of, then back out to Galantino for another load of brick. 

Should take a little over 600 brick to finish this wall and I got most of them here now.

By the time I made a mix just before lunch, the wife calls and tells me her 68 year old mother has been rushed to the hospital with chest pains and shes facing a battery of tests :sad:

I really couldn't think straight after hearing it and was worried for both of them. Turns out shes has two blocked arteries with the main one @ 90% restriction- very risky areas the surgeon says.

Doctors ain't messing with this one as they've scheduled a 7am open heart procedure tomorrow. Scary stuff that's for sure.

Needless to say, I didn't get much done today, but I did use up a small mix then wrapped things up early to be with the wife.

I pray the doctors do a good job on her tomorrow, my thoughts and prayers are with you Barbara.


----------



## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

best wishes, super.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Starting to get a feel for the contrast of the brick. It ain't an exact match, but the owner likes it and so do I :whistling

The dark brick aren't as black as the main house brick accents so I may try a little dye on some of the darker ones and see if it helps. Funny thing is, the sample board showed jet black accents but I've yet to find any in the pile :no:

Guess that's what you get when you try matching 65 year old brick


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Hope everything goes well in the hospital.

K&F Mowhawk look like you are talking about, black blacks, red reds. With some dark edging mixed in.


----------



## oktex56 (Dec 30, 2011)

Thoughts and prayers for your family Super.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Thanks for the well wishes - it worked :thumbsup:

She ended up getting a triple by-pass with one blockage labeled the widow maker...Doc said he couldn't believe she was getting around okay climbing steps and all. Apparently she wasn't showing many symptoms and apparently hasn't had a stress test recently.

Surgery was quite lengthy starting a 8:30 this morning and didn't end until 4 pm. She'll be in ICU for two days and then the rehab starts.

She ain't out of the woods just yet - but the prognosis looks good.

Get well soon Barb :thumbsup:


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I don't know but what I def know is that i hate solid bricks and if i see them i charge extra. You have to think about them rather than just listen to the radio and talk to the labia


----------



## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

dom-mas said:


> In my limited experience solid bricks are a *****. They're slow because there's no where for the mud to go.


I was taught long ago that when laying any brick, the back side get's "lowered" into place first, and you then tip the front of the brick to the line. Even with frogged or cored brick, it brings a ton of excess mud to the front of the brick which is ideal, as it keeps excess droppings out of the cavity as well as fills the bed joints completely, making jointing a breeze.

I've tried to relay this to my employees for years, to little avail. We recently finished a 25K brick home, and the garage door jambs were completely exposed after we laid them, enough that you could clearly see behind the entire panel, until the finished door jambs were installed by the carpenters. I laid 2 of the panels, while one of my other masons laid another. It was clear to see the huge difference in mortar droppings (or lack) of between the 3 panels by using my method.......:thumbsup:


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

I was taught that as well, but don't think i've ever really done it. I tend to lay the end that's going against the installed brick first, the push the exposed end down. I should really try to remember to use your method because jointing always takes me way too long since i have to fill a significant amount before i can joint.


----------



## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

dom-mas said:


> I was taught that as well, but don't think i've ever really done it. I tend to lay the end that's going against the installed brick first, the push the exposed end down. I should really try to remember to use your method because jointing always takes me way too long since i have to fill a significant amount before i can joint.


My employees are the same way, they joint with a trowel in one hand and a sled or S jointer in the other. I usually have a jointer in one hand and a coffee in the other....:thumbsup: I drives me nuts to joint behind either one of them, and the times the laborer does joints for us, he's always complaining about their open joints as well............


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Not me, I always gauge head joint side flush with the last brick I laid and then tap the other side to the line.

I try to gauge the mortar bed thickness carefully when laying it down and usually end up with little squeeze out. Angle of the trowel during furrowing plays a big part; steep equals thick joint, shallow for skinny joints.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So anyway, didn't get done what I thought I would today. My B-Day is Tues. next week and the wifey surprised me with a little get away so were leaving tomorrow. Just squared things up and I 'll get back it sometime next week. 

Looking forward to some R & R after the recent MIL scare and this friggin' heat wave...she's doing well btw, right back to her miserable self again :blink: so I know every things cool 

I know, I know, I'm a little outta order in progress here...who the hell points up after cleaning anyway. 

Got the back band laid and struck up, then cleaned the raked out front exposure with a mild dilution of Sure Klean 600 detergent. Works quite well and not as caustic as muriatic. 

Still a few thing to do here, so I'll be back for some pointing, parging, drainage work and capping sometime next week :thumbup:

In the meantime, I think I'm gonna try me a Mai Tai:thumbup1:


----------



## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Hello SuperSealMobile!


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Back at it again on my BDay none the less :thumbup: and I gotta remove more dirt for backfill. Inspector said he wanted to see it before I closed up it up for good so I made the call. 
My damn boots are gettin' tired of diggin'!

Still gotta waterproof the back side, with exception to the weeps of course :whistling, set some drain pipe, fabric and stone and top it off with some of the dirt and sod I saved. 

While I wait for him, I think I'll start pointing her up.

This July heat is friggin' nuts...I'm hiding under umbrellas like I'm at the beach


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Here's some pointing after the fact :laughing: But at least I know it'll be one color and I'll barely have to clean it again.

Starting to look like a wall it is :thumbup:


----------



## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

furrowing.brick..block..stone...stucco...it all boils down on how you mix your mud...heat,cold.wind.rain...it all comes with experience


----------



## oktex56 (Dec 30, 2011)

superseal said:


> Back in school 30 years ago, we only used solid brick due to the fact we reclaimed them after projects and they were easier to clean. Teacher would always say, "spread and furrow, spread and furrow". He would additionally always say, "and don't hit the level" :laughing:


I remember reading an article some years ago about a very old guy who made 10 cents per brick cleaning old mortar off with a cane knife. He would sit on a crate all day and slice/strike the mortar off each side. Heck of a way to make a living. Wonder how it is normally done today?

BTW SS, wall is coming out nice!


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Pointed the rest of the wall up this morning under intense heat and the threat of boomer's all afternoon.

Was gonna use an asphalt based sealer on the backfill side, but changed my mind and just used Thoro foundation coating. 
Little Acryl 60, soup it up and brush it on. 

Hey, they were giving away free t-shirts, what can I tell ya :whistling

I'll give it a quick second coat tomorrow, then start with backfill.


----------



## CanCritter (Feb 9, 2010)

. Wonder how it is normally done today?

BTW SS, wall is coming out nice![/QUOTE]

we used to go out and tear down houses and would take them to local boys home and they would clean them for $


----------



## bluebird5 (Dec 13, 2010)

SuperSeal, that is the finest retaining wall I have ever seen. Nice clean, QUALITY work. The homeowner is lucky to have you doing their project.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

So I stop by today to second coat the backside with Thoroseal foundation coating - yep, basically the non pigmented variety of the old stand by Thoroseal. I use the pigmented bags for interior basements a lot, but when you don't care about color, you can save a few bucks per bag going with this stuff.

Cut your acryl 3:1 and whip it up with a drill mixer. Let it dwell a bit, then smack it again. Now your ready to apply. Tampico brushes work well here.

With all the acryl - yesterdays first coat is hard as a rock :thumbup:


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Thats the nice thing about Thoro with the acryl,... cures out hard and fast and ready for backfill. 

Pretty sure I got some pipe and fabric laying around the shop,... 
Thats next on the list so back to work I go :whistling

Lets see what I can come up with


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Lost the boots today - their in rehab due to over exhaustion :whistling

Getting late too  ain't gonna be able to pick up another load of stone till tomorrow :clap:


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

OK, now I'm confused.
Where does the pipe discharge?
If your using the weeps, then why bother with the pipe?

I do like the use of the hair, for extra protection of the weeps. 

Very nice job overall, great attention to detail. :thumbsup:

D.


----------



## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Weeps get rid of moisture in the wall, the drainage pipe reduces hydrostatic pressure behind the wall. The drainage pipe should go to sunlight.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Diamond D. said:


> OK, now I'm confused.
> Where does the pipe discharge?
> If your using the weeps, then why bother with the pipe?
> 
> ...


Just a little redundancy I suppose - or maybe it's my airflow chassis :laughing:

Agreed, don't really need it but I do use less buckets of stone :whistling

This wall should bleed out like a stuck pig


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

I will soak down a white painters drop cloth and cover bluestone this time of year too. I will even directly hose it if I am still working after a couple hours.

Its frustrating having the mortar shrink in the joints over night.


----------



## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

Looks great superseal!:thumbup:


Dave


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

Looks good. I prefer the butt joint. The only time i do miters is if the caps/sills are square but I'm putting a wash on them


----------



## bluebird5 (Dec 13, 2010)

I'm not a mason so I gotta ask. Why you got to do all that torching of the stone? What does that do? What if you don't do it?


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

bluebird5 said:


> I'm not a mason so I gotta ask. Why you got to do all that torching of the stone? What does that do? What if you don't do it?


'Cause ya *can't* be doin' this. :no:



superseal said:


> Wonder how many guys would leave that saw-cut on the back side of the stone :whistling


But, I bet *a lot* of guys do. :sad:

D.


----------



## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

bluebird5 said:


> I'm not a mason so I gotta ask. Why you got to do all that torching of the stone? What does that do? What if you don't do it?


it's for looks.


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

the intense heat blows of a thin layer of the stone. Saw and chisel marks can be gotten rid of in this manner


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Also makes it not so slippery.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Wrapping up some touch up, pointing the cap joints and clearing out some equipment today as this job is all but done :thumbup:

Owner loves it - A lot of the neighbors too! Got a lot of attention on this one with all the people stopping and some additional work has already come in.

As far as torching the stone, many of us refer to this as thermal finishing. Like mentioned, the high heat textures the saw cut and adds a little charm to the edging. On the flat, it greatly increases slip resistance which comes in handy when doing steps and such. 

I ended up showing my thermaled edge out and put the factory finish inward on this job. My edge was slightly more rustic and not quite as sharp on the corner.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Pointing the cap stone joints was delightful - only three per wall and I kept them tight. Small concave jointer was used and it's a clean look.

I don't know,...the wet look is kinda nice too :whistling


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

Looks great, Super. :thumbsup:

'Bout time ya got those landscape ties outta there. :whistling:

D.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Diamond D. said:


> Looks great, Super. :thumbsup:
> 
> 'Bout time ya got those landscape ties outta there. :whistling:
> 
> D.


Did a number on the grass didn't I :laughing:

All being rescaped anyway,...I don't know why I tried puttin' the sod back :whistling

Owner is thinking regrading mulch beds behind the wall with some tall grass and plantings. Should look nice when it's all done.


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

:thumbsup:

D.


----------



## oktex56 (Dec 30, 2011)

SS, great crisp, clean look overall. Love it!

What stands out to me besides the great brick work is how blue the cap is. Know it is bluestone but wow it pops!:thumbsup:


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

oktex56 said:


> SS, great *crisp*, clean look overall. Love it!
> 
> What stands out to me besides the great brick work is how blue the cap is. Know it is bluestone but wow it *pops*!:thumbsup:


Why yes it is,...and yes it does :laughing:

Now I'm messing around trying to become a youtuber - these are my first ever successful uploads 

see if i can get this to work :001_unsure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWMj6Ab6xqk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T23O3Os6zRg


----------



## dbrons (Apr 12, 2010)

I think it's gone viral! :thumbup:


----------



## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

hahahahahahaha.

I liked how the closest related videos were about fancy hairstyles!!!!


----------



## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Neat! Never saw the process before.

So what's with the foam insulation? :whistling: :laughing:


----------



## r4r&r (Feb 22, 2012)

Nice work.


----------



## oktex56 (Dec 30, 2011)

dom-mas said:


> hahahahahahaha.
> 
> I liked how the closest related videos were about fancy hairstyles!!!!


Mine showed the art of stone massage:rockon:


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Sorry to re-hash an old thread. but it's been a month since I finished the wall and I stopped back for a check up and sealer application in addition to more work the owner wanted done. I know I know, no landscaping here yet, but the owner promised me he's starting in September. 

Normally the heads joints shrink in bluestone or maybe it's the other way around, but anyhoot, I like to wait for a complete cure before I come back and apply a flexible joint to the heads and then go ahead and waterproof and seal the stone and brickwork.

Process entails saw-cutting about 3/8" depth into my mortar joint, apply the bond breaker tape, Vulkem 116 sealant, tape and a few tools.

I like texture of the 116 and it blends well with the bluestone. Just hope no kids decide to stick their fingers in it whilst it cures


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Sure enough, some heads were cracked open,...tight but still there.

The sealant/caulk application provides long term performance with it's flexible nature and ensures a water tight joint. 

You can also broadcast dry blasting sand in the fresh sealant if you'd like so airborne containments don't bother to stick in your gooey concoction.


----------



## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

Wow I love that. I might have to start doing that. Although, why wouldnt you just press a flat joint down in about a half inch so you dont have to cut it out?


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

Very nice. :thumbsup:

Where did you get those wooden handled spatulas?

D.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

JBM said:


> Wow I love that. I might have to start doing that. Although, why wouldnt you just press a flat joint down in about a half inch so you dont have to cut it out?


I truly enjoy dusting out some of the new cars parked on the street :laughing: 

Na,...Just gave them a finish look till I got back. That 6:1:1 mix saw-cuts pretty easy with a tuck pointer blade and you get a fresh clean edge to boot.

Don't really need to go a half inch,...3/8 more than enough.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Diamond D. said:


> Very nice. :thumbsup:
> 
> Where did you get those wooden handled spatulas?
> 
> D.


What,...these :laughing:

Tool fetish I am.

Thorosystems and many others carry these knives/slickers. Just saw a whole kit from Albion linked on a key ring for under 40 bucks. All steel pretty cool. see if I can find their link...

http://www.albioneng.com/home/products/accessories/joint-tools.aspx


----------



## Diamond D. (Nov 12, 2009)

Thanks, I have a couple of the larger ones, but I like that 1/2 or 3/8 with the slight bend in it.

Are you using the jointers for caulk as well?
What do you use as a lubricant?

D.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Diamond D. said:


> Thanks, I have a couple of the larger ones, but I like that 1/2 or 3/8 with the slight bend in it.
> 
> *Are you using the jointers for caulk as well?*What do you use as a lubricant?
> 
> D.


Na, stainless blades are the way to go. Dawn or WD works great if you need it.


----------

