# Commercial sink



## thom943 (Apr 3, 2007)

I was wondering if any of you guys have much experience installing commercial sinks, 3 bowl standing sinks,....I have never installed any of those and was wondering what to expect...Since mmost of my work is residential.....


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## crb555 (Jun 14, 2007)

I will list a takeoff for what I use for this.

Sanitary Indirect Waste: 
(3) 2" dwv cu fip adapters
(1) 2" dwv cu sanitary cross
(2) 2" dwv cu wyes
(4) 2" dwv cu 45's
(2) 2" fitting cleanouts
(15') 2" dwv cu pipe

(if drain is centered, if not, use a san tee instead of cross if drain is to one side, and eliminate 1 fitting cleanout)

Water (2 faucet install)

(2) or (4) 1/2" copper X copper stops (globe valves)
(2) or (4) escutcheons 1/2" cu
(8) 1/2" 90's (4, if your mechanic is very good at rough -in)
(2) 1/2" tee's if using 2 stops
(4) 1/2" flanged fip 90's
(8) 7/8 "crowsfeet" washers ( I use the ones electricians use.. i think they are 7/8X5/8
(4) 1/2" x close BRASS nipples
(4) 1/2" cu couplings
(10') 1/2" cu pipe

I figure 8 man hours per 3 compartment sink. This covers handling and installation.

Works for us.


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## Grumpyplumber (May 6, 2007)

*Here we require a cleanout, and more importantly a grease interceptor (grease trap).*
*The grease trap needs a flow restrictor at the inlet, and it has to be individually vented in 2", along with seperate vents for the sink drain and the grease trap itself.*
*If I were you, I'd check local code rather than ask here...especially if it's getting inspected.*
*Only because code can be completely different from one state to the next, **and IF you don't need a grease trap it's a HUGE difference in stock & labor.*


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## crb555 (Jun 14, 2007)

Well, I did mention the 1, or 2 fitting cleanouts. (depending upon center floor drain, or offset to 1 side)

However, Grumpy is entirely correct. I made an assumption, which can be fatal when estimating what some unfamiliar work requires. I was speaking in terms of what "I" plug for material when I do an estimate. And I do a pretty damn good job of takeoff, if I do say so myself.. /grin. Also, when you bid plan and spec work like I do, an engineer has specified a particular set of requirement for a p# designation fixture.

Around here, you also have to have a grease trap, however, it is usually located outside the building in most commercial kitchens. There are of course under sink type models available. Most of the time around here you will have a safe-waste system for grease lines. You would also need either a hub drain, or a floor drain with a funnel. Must also terminate the indirect waste piping above the drain with a air gap equal to 1 1/2 x the pipe size. The domestic water piping also has to be a minimum 12" above finished floor. ( to allow mops, etc). The sink has to be either dead flush against the wall, caulked with food grade silicone, or off the wall by 3" minimum, with a standoff bracket attached to secure the legs. If the sink has a disposer, you will likely need an extra 1/2" water supply line, with a vacuum breaker that mounts above the flood rim....there could be a re-heat basin compartment with a booster heater potentially requiring a prv/ backflow/ combo temp/psi gauge, etc. Would be an extra drainline, typically 1 1/4" in that instance. All of these other items are labored separately.

I would also urge you to check with the local heath department, as local plumbing code might not address all of the requirements.


In a nutshell, I oversimplified the process. Your best bet is to take Grumpy's advice.


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## Grumpyplumber (May 6, 2007)

*Good points CRB....I know of at least one town in my state that requires special degreasing chemical dispensors for grease traps...thats JUST that town.*
*I never hesitate to call local inspectors if I'm unsure on an estimate, and ALWAYS leave a note in the contract that any changes ordered to the existing plumbing by the inspector are not included.*


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

Something to keep in mind, and I don't know if this is applicable nationwide, but I would bet it is, health code supersedes plumbing code. The plumbing inspector can pass it as A-OK, but the health department can fail it and you are liable to fix it. In Cook county they do not allow a floor drain to be used as an open site indirect waste, it has to be an enameled floor sink. When checking code, check with both plumbing and health.


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## thom943 (Apr 3, 2007)

*Commercial Sink*

I appreciate all the advice, That sounds like a pretty big chunk to bite off, For not having any commercial experience...I might have to go out and watch one get installed just to be on the safe side....I havent went to the cafe were this is to be installed,...For All I know It could be one of those places being held up by a single piece of re-barb, just waiting to blown over by the next hurricane that comes passin through....There are certain places here in Florida that i have went out to give a bid.......And when you get there you wonder how this place ever passed inspection.....The price of some bids that comes to mind is worth more that building it-self.....lol
Thanks​


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## Herk (Aug 1, 2007)

I'm a little late to the party, but I'll add some things anyway. It's possible you use different materials in your area. Here, we use ABS pipe, and many of these sinks are plumbed together with 1-1/2" pipe, IF they are going to a floor sink. You didn't mention if this had a floor sink with a grease trap already installed or not.

Last weekend, I worked on a 3-basin at the local Winger's and all the strainers needed to be re-puttied and new strainer washers because the chemicals were deteriorating them. 

If it's going into a floor sink, it's a pretty easy job. If it's going into the wall, then you need to check with what your municipality requires for grease traps. (They're the ones who have to figure out what to do with grease that comes through the lines.) You need to not only know whether they require one, but what size it is. 

Some places actually have a large grease trap out in the parking lot. We had a KFC here with one like that. For grease trap piping, you need 2", and sometimes there's a larger fitting on the trap itself that you need to adapt to.


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