# Custom Cabinetry - Tricks of the Trade



## KraftMaster (Mar 30, 2009)

We just started offering custom cabinetry and need some help.

A project that we are starting has several wall cabinets that have extended stiles which I know are trimable. 

My question is two fold -

A) How do you scribe that to the wall to get a template?

B) Once you have the template traced on to the cabinet what is the best way to trim? 

Does anyone have a video on how they have done it or can just explain ?

Much appreciate the tip !

:thumbup:


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## RS Sam (Feb 9, 2009)

Hopefully you aren't trying to fit between 2 walls with face frame stiles needing to be scribed on both ends. If that's the case my answer will be different.

In the case of a typical scribe - assuming your scribe vert is attached to the cabinet (_I send mine loose to be fitted then attached in the field_) get your cabninet as close to position as possible, all level and plumb in every orientation then - if your line is a simple 1/8" to 5/16" top to bottom kind of taper I usually just transfer those dims. to the stile and cut it with my Festool track saw. If your line is a squiggly thing I merely trace the wall with dividers properly set to mark the cabinet. I apply painter's tape to the cabinet so that my pencil mark is clear. I then cut to the line with a small Porter Cable belt sander after taking the bulk of the waste with a jig saw. One man's way...


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## detroit687 (Sep 4, 2008)

I usually take the fence off the table saw free hand it and then belt sand to the line.


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## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

The only thing I can add that Sam hasn't already mentioned is to keep a back bevel when trimming your scribe.

Make your cuts proud of the line, fine tune with a belt sander with a little back angle and test fit frequently. 

Take your time, you'll get much faster after a couple under your belt.:thumbsup:


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## RS Sam (Feb 9, 2009)

WNYcarpenter said:


> The only thing I can add that Sam hasn't already mentioned is to _keep a back bevel when trimming your scribe._
> :thumbsup:


Be careful back beveling uppers though so that you don't do the back bevel all the way through to the bottom. That will leave a pretty poor impression  if you know what I mean...


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## KnottyWoodwork (May 23, 2010)

Instead of a belt sander, i use my grinder with different wheels on it. I also bust out the mini handheld belt sander on occasion. But 99% of the time, that dang grinder just smokes it, and is my go to tool.


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## KraftMaster (Mar 30, 2009)

I have not heard of that saw ...watched a You tube on it and thats a must buy for my truck !

Thanks to all for the explanation - Will post pics of our first one when its done


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Basically the same approach. Except I use my block plane to pare it to the line. No belt sander.


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## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

katoman said:


> Basically the same approach. Except I use my block plane to pare it to the line. No belt sander.


well sure....it's a bit of a step from someone never doing it to the skills of the guy teaching the class!:laughing:

I haven't mastered the art of sharpening yet so my block plane technique sucks...You're setting the bar, none the less....:thumbsup:


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

:laughing: Just yesterday I was doing exactly that. I forgot I had added a small build out on one of the stiles. Ran my block plane through a couple of nails. 

Spent 10 minutes last night sharpening the blade.

Get one of those units that have a grinding wheel and wet sharpening stone all in one. The sharpening stone will put the bevel on the blade, and then just a few strokes on your sharpening stone and you're done.

Works great for chisels too. :thumbsup:

I watched a program the other night about making samurai swords. The guy spent 10 days sharpening it


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## RS Sam (Feb 9, 2009)

I was NEVER - EVER a belt sander user for cabinet related work :no: UNTIL I discovered the http://www.contractortalk.com/reviews/compact-belt-sander-porter-cable

This is a perfect scribe tool as I wrote in my review at the link above. A one hand tool that lets you creep up to a pencil line regardless of the gnarlyness of the grain. Scribing is practically the only thing I use it for and at that, it excels. I took the outer sleeve of the exhaust port off so that I could plug my Festool sander hose to it and now I have a dust free scribe tool. Nothing wrong with any of the other suggestions - I'm just saying that the little belt sander works great for me.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

That is the belt sander I use for scribing.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Festool RAS is the bomb for scribing.


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

The way I trim my stiles is...

1- find the largest gap ( let's say 4" ) from top to bottom and either get a piece of stock 4" or larger.

2- line up that piece of stock flush with the custom unit. Do not let lay over edge.. flush is key

3- set your scribe to 4" and scribe piece. 

4- use table saw / jig saw to complete the cut and sand to fit.

That's how I do it.


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## chris klee (Feb 5, 2008)

i love that mini belt sander for scribing. i call it my mouse belt sander.


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

I've used block planes, belt sanders, grinders, hand held portable planers, & B&D Super Saw Cats. They all have their advantages, depending on cabinet material, amount of material removal, & severity of curve. They all work. 
It's more about the user than the tool. 
Joe


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

All of the above works great, but sometimes you will come across a cab that has an extended stile that you made or that was made to have to scribe to a wall. With custom cabs, that can also include custom finishes, you don't want to have to play around with the cabinet too much. 

Simplest way in this scenario (extended stile) is to use a "calibrated flexible curve" (see below) to create a template... 









http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=150-746&LARGEVIEW=ON

Sidewinders are awesome for this, but are quite pricey...

Anyway, get a length of ply or MDF (preferably) greater than the height of cabinet (to be clamped to cab later). Use that to create a template for use on the cab after using the curve to copy the contour of the wall. After transferring the wall contour from the curve tool to the ply/mdf and cutting out shape with your tool of choice (depends on how bad contour is, but jig or belt sander will do the job). Test against wall. You now have a template to use your router to flush cut it (my peferred method... one pass and you are done assuming your template was correct) or your beltsander. And the best part is you don't have to worry about making a mistake on the actual cab.

Unclip the door, put some painters tape on to protect the finish, attach template and your off creating the final product. Measure from the next cab over to the top and bottom of wall where cab will meet and you will know where to place your template by measuring from right of cab. Just set the template back 1/6" to allow for expansion and contraction. If needed, caulk thin 1/6" seam using paintable caulk and paint to match. 

Total time - 10 - 15 minutes... 

Best of luck... 8^)


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## blackbear (Feb 29, 2008)

I like running the piece through a table saw on a slight angle but leaving about an 1/4. Alot easier to scribe the 1/4 than the whole 3/4.

another way I do it is take a straight piece, clamp the stile on correct angle and run through table saw


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

For cabs that have a panel that returns into the wall and they leave you a scribe rail on it, I like to rip a bevel on it with my rail saw and then kick that cab into the wall. 

The bevel will cut into the Sheetrock slightly and leave a perfect crisp line.


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## RS Sam (Feb 9, 2009)

If you kick the base cabs, is this how you do the uppers :wallbash:? 

:laughing:


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## Rich D. (Oct 14, 2011)

Good pointer warner.. I must try that... Thanks!


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

RS Sam said:


> If you kick the base cabs, is this how you do the uppers :wallbash:?
> 
> :laughing:


Ok, knee it.:laughing:


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