# Control Joint in 30x36 Garage



## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

I have a garage I'm hanging the ceiling in. It is 30x36. Insulated but not heated. Floor prone to a lot of sweating.

Would you put in control joints and if so how often? How much of a gap do you leave between sheets to accommodate for the trim?

Thanks I've never had an area this big before.


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## stombaugh85 (Jul 23, 2012)

Spencer said:


> I have a garage I'm hanging the ceiling in. It is 30x36. Insulated but not heated. Floor prone to a lot of sweating.
> 
> Would you put in control joints and if so how often? How much of a gap do you leave between sheets to accommodate for the trim?
> 
> Thanks I've never had an area this big before.


Im guesing your putting up OSB.I would'nt think you would have any issues if you didnt gap. How tall is your ceiling? Any ventilation, exhaust fans ect.?
If you gap them just put up a vapor barrier first, 1/8 inch should work. This is not my department of expertise thou. Just would think concrete sweating would affect your ceiling too much . 
I have an osb ceiling in my garage and the seams are tight. I installed a vapor barrier first. I only heat it when I'm out there working, I got a wood burner. Its been 5 years since built with no issues.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

I'm putting up drywall. Was thinking of going with osb but then decided I needed drywall because of possible living space in the attic room above down the road. 

There is a 4 mil vabor barrier between drywall and joist.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Double layer 5/8 rock? Will your trusses hold that?


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

jlsconstruction said:


> Double layer 5/8 rock? Will your trusses hold that?


Who said anything about double layer?

I'm simply putting 5/8 drywall on the ceiling in the garage and was wondering what standard practice was with control joints???


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Spencer said:


> Who said anything about double layer?
> 
> I'm simply putting 5/8 drywall on the ceiling in the garage and was wondering what standard practice was with control joints???


I was asking if you were, hence the question mark. And if you are planning on having living space above the garage you have to have double 5/8. Also the walls from the garage to the house. Atleast here you do.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

jlsconstruction said:


> I was asking if you were, hence the question mark. And if you are planning on having living space above the garage you have to have double 5/8. Also the walls from the garage to the house. Atleast here you do.


My bad. I'm not sure if a double layer is code here. A guy down the road did just have a vehicle spontaneously catch on fire in his shop. Pretty well burnt the thing down. I don't think I'd like anyone sleeping above a garage....anyway back to the control joints....


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Spencer said:


> My bad. I'm not sure if a double layer is code here. A guy down the road did just have a vehicle spontaneously catch on fire in his shop. Pretty well burnt the thing down. I don't think I'd like anyone sleeping above a garage....anyway back to the control joints....


Are you taping the joints or just putting trim over them. I've never seen intentionally spacing sheetrock.


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## elliot (Jan 24, 2009)

*re control joints*

Is their control joints in the slab? If so maybe place them at same locations.I've left anywhere from 3/8-1/2 inch and used the 093 control joint.(i believe they are zinc)


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## QCCI (Jan 28, 2013)

I do not think any control joints would be needed, I mean it's not that big. What are your concerns? Control joints would be for controling movement, not really moisture control. I think some good ventelation would help that. Just my 2 cents.....


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## jkfox624 (Jun 20, 2009)

jlsconstruction said:


> I was asking if you were, hence the question mark. And if you are planning on having living space above the garage you have to have double 5/8. Also the walls from the garage to the house. Atleast here you do.


Around here all you need is one layer with hardwired smoke detector. And i see no reason for control joints.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

jkfox624 said:


> Around here all you need is one layer with hardwired smoke detector. And i see no reason for control joints.


Yeah same here with the smoke alarms in every room but the kitchen and bathrooms


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

No control joints. And if it was my house I would double rock it If I had the chance. :thumbsup:

Just make sure you use the right size screw.:whistling


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

QCCI said:


> I do not think any control joints would be needed, I mean it's not that big. What are your concerns? Control joints would be for controling movement, not really moisture control. I think some good ventelation would help that. Just my 2 cents.....


You are right about controlling movement. My boss is pushing me to do it because his garage ceiling is absolutely destroyed. He has bad settling issues though. I shouldn't have this here.

It seemed like I read 30 ft and 50 being the magic number online. There will be a lot of moisture in there on days with big temp swings. 

I did go ahead and cut it in half the 30 ft way, leaving a gap between the tapered side. I think that is all i'll do.

Thanks for letting a trim guy come over and ask questions. Appreciate the feedback...


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Maybe try sealing your garage floor if your worried about it sweating, i've never seen a control joint in drywall that's what the tape does hold it together?? In modular homes i've seen they use a thin drywall board around 3/8" and have vinyl strips for joints on vertical I suppose that's for transportation or just to be cheap??


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## ubcguy89 (Mar 23, 2013)

Spencer said:


> I have a garage I'm hanging the ceiling in. It is 30x36. Insulated but not heated. Floor prone to a lot of sweating.
> 
> Would you put in control joints and if so how often? How much of a gap do you leave between sheets to accommodate for the trim?
> 
> Thanks I've never had an area this big before.


on continuous runs over 24' you should have control joints. they should be every 24' but with 30' I would put it at 15' hang the board install the CJ and then hang the other side


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

Spencer said:


> You are right about controlling movement. My boss is pushing me to do it because his garage ceiling is absolutely destroyed. He has bad settling issues though. I shouldn't have this here.
> 
> It seemed like I read 30 ft and 50 being the magic number online. There will be a lot of moisture in there on days with big temp swings.
> 
> ...


No expert drywaller here, just a GC, but I've never heard of expansion issues with DW.

Furthermore, and I think it is code everywhere,IRC..ICC, that habital (maybe someplaces only bedrooms?) rooms above a garage require at minimum fire tapeing. That would seem to negate any expansion joint in your case.

Peter


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 3, 2010)

ubcguy89 said:


> on continuous runs over 24' you should have control joints. they should be every 24' but with 30' I would put it at 15' hang the board install the CJ and then hang the other side


Does the control joint, I'm not sure what the product is, provide airtight fire/retardent seal over a garage and under a bedroom.

By control joint, I thought he ment just a stress release spacing like a 1/8 spacing. 

Does moisture and/or heat differential really cause much issue with DW... and if so... what are the parameters before you have to treat with CJ's and consider the issue.

Thanks alot in advance

Peter


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## ubcguy89 (Mar 23, 2013)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Does the control joint, I'm not sure what the product is, provide airtight fire/retardent seal over a garage and under a bedroom.
> 
> By control joint, I thought he ment just a stress release spacing like a 1/8 spacing.
> 
> ...


What he means by a control joint is actuall called an expansion joint. It comes in both vinyl and metal. I have hung alot of board, and I can honstly say I have never put one on a ceiling. I am not saying it cant be done, I just have never done it. Your use for them are mainly in commercial hallways and they are generally above door jambs. drywall does move, alot, and that is when you get cracks in your board. if you tried to put an 1/8 space in drywall on a joint, you would have to prefill with durabond, and you would end up losing that spacing. trimtex makes an expansion joint, and you can also get a frye expansion joint that is usually cut in after, but being on a ceiling, I would double up joist, and hang a rip install frye, and hang another rip.


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

We put them in ceilings all the time. This mall we ran them every 30' the entire length on all floors.































This particular one was added right next to an existing one that is right above and in line with the parabolic light layout due to a structural issue that continually caused awful gaps and cracks.


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## GCTony (Oct 26, 2012)

What Mudmaster said. Control/expansion joints are usally seen in large commercial buildings and located where there are structural control/expansion points built into the structure. Usually along column/girt/beam lines.

Someone mentioned double layer of 5/8. not required in the IBC but not a bad idea. Not for fire but for sound. Double layer of 1/2X would be an option as well.


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## ubcguy89 (Mar 23, 2013)

Mud Master said:


> We put them in ceilings all the time. This mall we ran them every 30' the entire length on all floors.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



looks great, as I said I have never personally used them on lids, only above jambs. I am a commercial carpenter and the majority of lids that I hang are small, mainly offices, most ceiling are accoustical


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## Mud Master (Feb 26, 2007)

ubcguy89 said:


> looks great, as I said I have never personally used them on lids, only above jambs. I am a commercial carpenter and the majority of lids that I hang are small, mainly offices, most ceiling are accoustical


I agree. Bulkhead and bathroom lids are the majority of what we get. 

This being a mall however called for a different architectural layout.


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