# Metal roof



## Affordable Home (Mar 23, 2007)

Can anyone point me in the right direction.

I am experienced with 3 tab and archetectual shingles. 

I have recently had several potential customers ask about metal roofing and I'll just admit, I've never done even one.

Are there any sites I could visit that would help me better understand installation, material, cost etc...

I have read the book "Roofing Construction & Estimating" by Daniel Atcheson, from front to back and must admit I'm still a little intimadated by the metal roofs. 
I know there are several types out there but the one I get questioned about the most is the ribbed metal panel roof.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
AH


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## tnt specialty (Apr 19, 2007)

"Pro-Panel" is a very simple metal roof system. Your supplier ought to be able to get you info.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 12, 2004)

I went with Century Drain by Wheeling for my personal roof. I was a real PITA for the roofers here and God bless 'em for their advice.

The metal roof has many advantages. Longevity+fire and wind protection. Most ins. co's. will give you a serious break for having a metal roof. Don't forget the new underlays, they give a break for them too. The local power co. may also chip in for radiant barriers, mine did 50%. All sales points.

I've been planning to post some pic's of the roof job. I promise that I'll post them this week.


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## dayspring (Mar 4, 2006)

My suggestion is: Find the particular "brand" and type of metal roofing available in your area. Do a Google search. Most companies have a website that gives specs and procedures. Also familiarize yourself with trim pieces.

This is the product line most used in my area http://www.abcmetalroofing.com/abcroofing/


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## Ed the Roofer (Dec 12, 2006)

When I first opened up my roofing company in 1985, all I did was hot asphalt Built up roofing.

I bid on a Chilis Restaurant, but did not include the architectural sheet metal work, so even though my flat roof price was "too" cheap, I did not get the project due to not being 100 % responsible for all water tight integrity.

I then hired an old German sheet matal foreman from my old Union roofing company to work for me part time to teach me the ins and outs. There is a lot more to it than it seems, or at least to do it correctly and cosmetically.

It is simple to do, but not necessarily easy. Follow the fastening patterns and make sure you order all of the required accessories, such as the eave starter piece, which is a tightly bent flattened j-channel that keeps the center of the bottom of each panel from bowing and the proper miter pieces for hips or j-channels and hip and ridge cap pieces. Have someone experienced with the materials you choose make the materials order for you.

Also, to save cost on the panels, some metal companies will lease the roll forming equipment, which you can then just order the coil of metal and guillotine cut your lengths to the exact sizes required. That will cut down the panel cost by about 1/2.

Ed


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## Affordable Home (Mar 23, 2007)

Thank you all, I will check in with all responses/suggestions posted.
AH


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## roofwiz74 (Oct 27, 2006)

I'm not a big fan of the exposed fastners on the lower quality metal roof systems.But people want them regardless.Flashings are the most important.I can't tell you how many times I've had to fix caulk flashings.I would seriously consider maybe hiring on someone with experience in metal details.


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## Dibi (Feb 20, 2007)

FYI: Dan's book is wonderful but it pulls a little bit of info. from lots of books. Make sure you read up on the NRCA for more details. Also, read SMACNA as it's packed full of detailed drawings and specs. I've never done one either but I'm attempting to learn the mechanics of installation.


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## Joasis (Mar 28, 2006)

You mean like this roof? We did this one last summer. It is 26 gauge, forrest green.....in Oklahoma, the insurance deduction for this roof type is 25% or more, and the cost of materials, including screws, deck tights, trim, and closures runs about $90 a square currently.


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## Affordable Home (Mar 23, 2007)

Yes, exactly like that one. Nice job also. Here in Southern Il. it's becoming more attractive to the HO than regular run of the mill ashpalt shingles. Roofing has put money in my pocket when the slow times come so, I have to learn more about the metal roof industry if I want the work and stay competitive. As far as I can tell, the trim work seems to be the most critcal part of the job.


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## Ed the Roofer (Dec 12, 2006)

From past experience with 26 ga panels, especially with wider than 12 " sizes, is that they tend to show off the oil-canning, warped look too significantly.

I prefer 24 ga, and have used Berridge, Pac-Clad (Peterson Aluminum Corporation), and MBCI most frequently.

What product or company line was the one you used Joasis?

Do I note the oil-canning effect on your photo, or is it an illussion from the thumbnail compressed photo?

Ed


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

just curious?
do they have any provisions for sound proofing? or does a big rain storm keep you awake all night?

ray


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## Joasis (Mar 28, 2006)

Ed the Roofer said:


> From past experience with 26 ga panels, especially with wider than 12 " sizes, is that they tend to show off the oil-canning, warped look too significantly.
> 
> I prefer 24 ga, and have used Berridge, Pac-Clad (Peterson Aluminum Corporation), and MBCI most frequently.
> 
> ...


I have used a lot of 24 gauge from MBCI, and have had oil canning on the wide surfaces. The metal I use is an industry standard "classic" rib panel, with 3/4 inch high ribs, 9 inches on center, and unless a sheet is damaged, will not show "canning"....however, with all metal roofs flat to deck, preperation is key...miss a nail from the old roof, and it will show or "dimple the metal." To further note Ed, it has been my experience that 26 gauge resists hail dents better then 24, which tends to be a lower grade of steel. I have no less then 7 building manufacturing plants within 100 miles of me, so using metal components works here....inexpensively also. 

The added benifits are reflective value of the steel....most people notice their A/C comes on less in the summer and the home "feels" cooler. The myth of a "sweating tin roof" also doesn't get any merit if installed correctly, meaning attic ventilation and insulation from the living area.



POOLMANinCT said:


> just curious?
> do they have any provisions for sound proofing? or does a big rain storm keep you awake all night?
> 
> ray


Everyone asks me if you can hear it like in a barn when it rains...answer? Nope....sounds really no different then under a comp roof....in a well insulated home, you don't hear it anyway. 

What we are doing now on new construction and offering on re-roofs is to strap a roof with 1X4's and roll solar gaurd for an underlayment. Now this has little R value, but claimes to decrease heat gain on the roof by 70% or more, depending on color. I will post pics tonight of the ICF home...it is getting a metal roof, and should be done tonight.....just in time for pictures for the home show this weekend.


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## roofwiz74 (Oct 27, 2006)

The myth of a "sweating tin roof" also doesn't get any merit if installed correctly, meaning attic ventilation and insulation from the living area.

it's no myth,as you state "if" it's installed right.
have you ever used any other metal roofing besides screw down barn tin?


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## roofwiz74 (Oct 27, 2006)

http://www.englertinc.com/roofing1024.aspx

http://www.fabral.com/default.htm
I've had alot of exp. with the englert,good stuff.My problem with exposed fastners is the expansion and contraction of the panels.It does loosen the fastners,then it leaks.


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## roofwiz74 (Oct 27, 2006)

here's a pic of one I did five or six years ago.


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## roofwiz74 (Oct 27, 2006)

a good read about metal roof condesation,and ice dams.
http://www.fabral.com/technical/Residential_condensation.pdf


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## Ed the Roofer (Dec 12, 2006)

Joasis,

I thought, but wasn't sure that that panel had a centered rib for additional strength. With that integral rib, it makes the 26 ga much less prone to oil-canning.

The job looked really nice. I wasn't trying to be critical of it. Especiall at $ 90.00 per square for all materials and accessories. That about half of the 24 ga Kynar 500 panel from Pac-Clads system if I remember correctly.

I don't see how a thinner material would be sess prone to hail damage though. But you work in a major hail alley, so I defer to your historical experience. 

Ed


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## Joasis (Mar 28, 2006)

roofwiz74 said:


> The myth of a "sweating tin roof" also doesn't get any merit if installed correctly, meaning attic ventilation and insulation from the living area.
> 
> it's no myth,as you state "if" it's installed right.
> have you ever used any other metal roofing besides screw down barn tin?


Yes I have...installed the $600 a square architectural steel roof systems...also standing seam panelized, and stone coated shakes. The look of a "barn tin" roof isn't for everyone, and tastes vary, like opinions, *but in my market, in my area*, it is tough to sell a steel roof that can exceed $12 a square foot. I have heard the "barn tin" criticism from lots of people, and the bottom line for me is we install a good roof, insurance accepted, and we can compete with high end comp shingles. I would not pretend to guess what other areas do, or how they would be recieved, but in our area of the country, as Ed pointed out, we deal with hail outs every few years....high winds, fire dangers....and if barn tin roofs perform well, and your insurance premiums are not rising every few years because you have hail damage, they look pretty good.

For a few years, we did a roof a week, and now it seems every roofer in our area is doing metal roofs...we moved on to new construction and commercial work, so we don't do many roofs unless I know the customer well, and I don't solicit roofing...but I can tell you we do this on all our new construction spec homes.


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## Affordable Home (Mar 23, 2007)

What exactly is oil canning?
Like I said before, I have yet to install one. Have checked every page you all have suggested and even the good read about condensation on metal roofs. I really liked the page on ABC so I want to thank dayspring for that. I have to be honest guys, it really does not seem that diffucult,like I said before looks like the trim work is the most important.
However, just so everyone will know, I have not taken the ILL. state test yet, am scheduled to do so in June on residential only. Hope by then I'll be ready and thanks again to all.


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