# Stucco lathe problem?



## Pennyroyal's (Sep 24, 2005)

It is my understanding metal lathe sheeting has an UP and Down position. Up giving the mud a trough to hold it, so to speak. 
My new sub has installed half up and half down...randomly.
Am I going to have a problem with this?
I noticed it as I arrived on the job and the mud is going on. 
My trade is carpentry and historic remodeling, not stucco. 
Joe.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

You won't, he will. (it doesn't really matter, it is nominally easier to put mud on the wall if mounted correctly)


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## Pennyroyal's (Sep 24, 2005)

*thanks tscar !*

nothing like making your job that much harder...


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## stacker (Jan 31, 2006)

like tscar said,your stucco wont be affected with the "upside /backwards lath"but your installer may.
when you look at the lath,you will see little cups that go in and down somewhat.that is the way you want the lath.this allows the lath to hold the mud/stucco.
now even tho the lath will hold the mud/stucco with the cups falling out.you installer will have a harder time,with the stucco or stone staying in place.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

As a rule, I try and use the size of the lath more efficently than the "proper" direction of the lath.


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## Snow Man (Aug 18, 2008)

There's 2 types of wire . Lath ( with no dimples ) and stucco with.

Big difference in tooling that mud with that there wire hanging upside down backwards. What he said 

If it were my job,I'd yank it and correct the situation :turned::stuart::stuart::hammer:


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Here is a little secret: If you hang the lath upside down, stroke it up (or sideways or whatever way you hang it), and it isn't an issue. It is all about the correct stroke and pressure, not the orientation of the lath. For the final result it does not matter a whit.


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## Snow Man (Aug 18, 2008)

Tscarborough said:


> Here is a little secret: If you hang the lath upside down, stroke it up (or sideways or whatever way you hang it), and it isn't an issue. It is all about the correct stroke and pressure, not the orientation of the lath. For the final result it does not matter a whit.


Good answer.......if you are performing the act.:laughing:


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## tool junkie (Jan 30, 2008)

It doesnt take that much more effort to pay attention and put it on right in the first place. My guess is your sub is green or he had laborers that didnt know apply the lath while he was at starbucks checking out the games on his cellphone.


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## Snow Man (Aug 18, 2008)

tool junkie said:


> It doesnt take that much more effort to pay attention and put it on right in the first place. My guess is your sub is green or he had laborers that didnt know apply the lath while he was at starbucks checking out the games on his cellphone.


OOOOOOOOOOOH Im seeing a little insecurity there JUNKY

lmao ... what do you do a year in plastering vs. lets say about 20-25 South Americans? 

I know , you cannot compete with people who dont pay taxes , eat rice and beans 24/7 and work longer hours than the typical American.

Or you didnt know that there were 2 TWO types of wire ????

Listen , IT"S A ROUGH TRADE, cut him some slack


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## stuccoman (Sep 6, 2006)

Lath is to stucco as rebar is to concrete!

Once the mud sets it is not going anywhere.

As for an up and down direction yes there is. Which way do the run it when it is on a ceiling?

As for the mud falling of it can but a craftsman can handle it. I guess that is why is is called a trade.

The up and down is more important when the stucco is applied to a wall that has no sheathing on it.

Worry more about the moisture barrier's and flashing's!


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## Snow Man (Aug 18, 2008)

As for the mud falling of it can but a craftsman can handle it. I guess that is why is is called a trade. (stuccoman)

if it was hung properly, then the craftsman wouldn't have to work that much harder, would he?


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## stuccoman (Sep 6, 2006)

Snowman,

The lath being upside down does not make the system fail.

As for it being harder it is all hard. That is why they call it work.


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## Rybit (Jul 23, 2008)

stuccoman said:


> Worry more about the moisture barrier's and flashing's!


 
Amen. Speaking of which the August CSI had an article about flashing for thin veneer systems. Worth the read for anyone who works with lick and stick stone or stucco.

properly installed the lathe will feel rough when you rub your hand up it and smooth when you rub your hand down it. That sounds backwards but that is the case. I worry when someone uses lathe for adhered masonry and doesn't cover ALL of the lathe with a brown coat. That galvanized lathe will could certainly rust just like galvanized roofing. I'd hate to see it in 30 years when it rusts away and the system begins to fail.


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## CottonFields (Jun 4, 2012)

Stuccoman, are you there? Hoping you can help me successfully do cement shower walls. What moisture barrier is best to put over the existing wood walls? Then Hardi, lathe, brown coat, Type S Mortar-Stucco mix, then a Sealer? If someone can set me straight on how to properly do this, I'll be a happy camper. I'd also like to know if the stucco can be tinted.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

CottonFields said:


> *Stuccoman, are you there?* Hoping you can help me successfully do cement shower walls. What moisture barrier is best to put over the existing wood walls? Then Hardi, lathe, brown coat [please tell me what that is], Type S Mortar-Stucco mix, then a Sealer? If someone can set me straight on how to properly do this, I'll be a happy camper. I'd also like to know if the stucco can be tinted.


:no: He hasn't logged in since 2009. But you never know. 
Maybe start a new thread with your question. :thumbsup:


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

Do acrylic on top of reg scratch coat...solve both moisture and color issues.

Pm me


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Acrylic stucco in shower = Fail.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

I would venture to say any stucco in the shower is a bad idea.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Not if it contains a good proportion of marble dust.


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## JBM (Mar 31, 2011)

I was thinking of something witty to say about the stucco being rough on my rear end but came up with nothing lol.


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## NYCB (Sep 20, 2010)

He shouldn't have a problem with it if he knows how to run his trowel.

Usually on a gable end to save time, I will just tip the lath to run right up the soffit.

It is less important to get it going in the right direction than it is to make absolutely sure there are no bumps in it, or spans without enough fasteners.


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

Tscarborough said:


> Acrylic stucco in shower = Fail.


Meh i did some installs six years ago.for designer...still zero moisture or water issues.


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## Stone (Mar 23, 2009)

sitdwnandhngon said:


> Usually on a gable end to save time, I will just tip the lath to run right up the soffit.
> 
> It is less important to get it going in the right direction than it is to make absolutely sure there are no bumps in it, or spans without enough fasteners.


Thin veneer stone manufacturers say to only nail into the framing. I usually do this but didn't on a current job and a building inspector called me on it. I had to do some fast talking to keep from tearing off 1200 square foot of lath and a few hundred of stone. It is hard not to have bumps when going over a 3/4 inch thick rainscreen drainage mat and only nailing into framing.


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## TheItalian204 (Jun 1, 2011)

How did they call you on it?


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## Stone (Mar 23, 2009)

The inspector initially called the builder, who called me in a panic. I have never had an inspector show any interest in exterior veneer work before but this office had seen some recent failures and were trying to get up to speed by reading the installation instructions online. I told them that nailing only into framing is a good idea but sometimes impractical and that the many failures I had seen were from lack of weather resistant barriers or kickout flashings or both, or generally poor workmanship. I also mentioned, as an example of ideal world versus real world, that every manufacturer calls for starting the stone 4 inches up from grade but most installers don't do that because it is unacceptable to the customers. I know that inspection of wall prep is happening in some areas with requirements to include drainage planes and weep systems, but I hadn't encountered it in my area before. No problem as long as I know what to expect and that everyone else has to follow the same rules.


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