# Cleaning WD-40 off of a concrete slab before tile



## BCULP2 (May 31, 2006)

I just looked at a job where the home owner removed a glue down wood floor in their kitchen. They used a gallon of wd-40 to remove the glue from the concrete slab, over about 150sf. 

My question is, what should be done to clean the slab before tile goes down?

Scrub it with a degreaser?
Clean it with TSP?
Use a certain type of thinset?
Don't worry about it?
Run? 


Thanks


----------



## JohnFRWhipple (Oct 20, 2009)

*Mapei - Crack and Sound Isolation Mat*

That is a very tricky install.

I would think you could use the Mapei peel and stick Sound and Crack Isolation product but call them the check first.

http://www.mapei.com/

Here is the Data Sheet for the Crack and Sound Isolation Mat

I would remove as much of the oil as possible first. Good Luck.


----------



## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Scarify. It ends the worry of surface contaminants. No offense to John, but if the whole point of using a membrane is because of a bond breaker - how do you know the membrane will bond??


----------



## Morgan Tile (Jun 25, 2011)

muratic acid thats what i would use to be on the safe side if an oily residue is present after that tile installation would not be an option.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

x2 Scarify but not acid.


----------



## BCULP2 (May 31, 2006)

Morgan Tile said:


> muratic acid thats what i would use to be on the safe side if an oily residue is present after that tile installation would not be an option.



I've only ever used muriatic acid for cleaning masonry outside. Seems like pretty nasty stuff to try and use indoors.

If the residue is still there after cleaning what would the options for coverings be?


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

how about alittle wd40? that stuff cleans everything:thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

BCULP2 said:


> I've only ever used muriatic acid for cleaning masonry outside. Seems like pretty nasty stuff to try and use indoors.
> 
> *If the residue is still there after cleaning what would the options for coverings be?*


Scarify. Then you don't have this problem :whistling

Why do people insist on finding another solution when the answer is right in front of them?


----------



## BCULP2 (May 31, 2006)

PrecisionFloors said:


> Scarify. Then you don't have this problem :whistling
> 
> Why do people insist on finding another solution when the answer is right in front of them?




Just checking out the options. Running a sacrifier through a kitchen wouldn't be my first choice if there was another way of cleaning it. :thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

BCULP2 said:


> Just checking out the options. Running a sacrifier through a kitchen wouldn't be my first choice if there was another way of cleaning it. :thumbsup:


I understand the need for options. But. _Why_ is my point.

Why wouldn't scarifying be your first choice? Cost? Noise? Access to equipment? Never done it before?

I guess what I'm getting at is I *think* there are some misconceptions about what scarifying a typical 120sf kitchen would entail. I'd be willing to bet, with the right equipment, I could scarify the floor quicker, easier, and cheaper (if you value your time or factor in labor costs) than you could clean the floor AND guarantee the elimination of all bond breakers. 

There are a lot of instances in construction where chemical science has taken us to new heights and eliminated the manual labor of things. Cleaning contaminates from a concrete slab in a situation where floor covering will be adhered to it afterward is not one of them however :thumbsup:


----------



## MAULEMALL (May 16, 2010)

BCULP2 said:


> Just checking out the options. Running a sacrifier through a kitchen wouldn't be my first choice if there was another way of cleaning it. :thumbsup:


use some clay kitty litter and let it take up the excess..

I have used Greased Lightning and Krud cutter and both worked..

but Dawn dishwashing detergent and a scrubbrush has worked really well for me....


It's going to take some work but it will come up.


----------



## BCULP2 (May 31, 2006)

PrecisionFloors said:


> I understand the need for options. But. _Why_ is my point.
> 
> Why wouldn't scarifying be your first choice? Cost? Noise? Access to equipment? Never done it before?



Yeah, mostly dust and being able to get into all the areas with the machine would be my only concerns. 

I'm figuring that I'd still have to scrub the floor with a degreaser to get close to the cabinets and in the pantry.

I'll probably try out a test spot with some greased lightning or tsp on Tuesday. If that doesn't work I'll be trying your solution.

Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## Rockwood (Dec 1, 2008)

I would go with the dawn or a good degreaser then put a fan on it. After it drys pour a few drops of water to see it is beading up like a waxed car. If it is then scarify it.


----------



## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Doug_W said:


> The simpelest solution to this problem is to use Tyroc Subflooring. It is a floating subfloor 1/2" H. Easy to install, does not attach to the floor. You can lay the Tyroc down and tile directly over it. It has passed TCNA standards for residential tile installation over concrete floors. The MgO surface board has been Mapei tested as well.


 While I appreciate your zeal to sell stuff...That is hardly a simpler solution than renting a machine and cleaning the slab. Let alone the cost involved in buying the miracle subfloor and then the additional labor of installing it. I'm sure there are situations that Tyroc may be the simple solution. This ain't one of 'em :no:


----------



## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Another for scarifying. When doing epoxy floors it would be the same surface prep. Necessary to remove surface contaminates, and get a nice profile for proper adhesion.


----------



## ernesto (Apr 11, 2011)

I bet that WD-40 "penetrate" went deeper than a scarifyer can go.


----------



## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Why not try some oil dry of kitty litter ground in on the spot (really ground in) and let it set for a few days?


----------

