# Best Rail Saw



## B.D.R. (May 22, 2007)

I have the Makita Plunge saw. I won it at a contractors appreciation night at the lumber yard. I think that that makes it the best.
One of my emploees dropped it off the back of his truck. $113.00 to replace the casing. :furious:
Hope he liked his Cristmas bonus.:laughing:


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Get a door hook and do all the fitting before you put your hinges on.
> 
> I bet it will save you some time.


If I ever had a whole bunch to do, I would, but for the relatively few I do a year, it's just another tool to carry around.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

TBFGhost said:


> If I ever had a whole bunch to do, I would, but for the relatively few I do a year, it's just another tool to carry around.


It's just 2 clips with a piece of rubber so you can hold the door flush to the jamb/casing. It takes up as much room as a tape measure.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> It's just 2 clips with a piece of rubber so you can hold the door the door flush to the jamb/casing. It takes up as much room as a tape measure.


Can't quite picture it. Can you ...uh, picture it?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> Can't quite picture it. Can you ...uh, picture it?


http://www.garymkatz.com/ChartsDrawings/Doorhook.html


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks. Hmm. Far be it from me to question a Katz Kontraption, but I think I'd have to see it in action a time or three before adding one to my already cluttered toolbox.

That's one of the frustrating aspects of being a generalist rather than a specialist. You just can't carry _everything_.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> Thanks. Hmm. Far be it from me to question a Katz Kontraption, but I think I'd have to see it in action a time or three before adding one to my already cluttered toolbox.
> 
> That's one of the frustrating aspects of being a generalist rather than a specialist. You just can't carry _everything_.



The big part goes over the top of the door, you wrap the part with the rubber around the jamb head and clip that hook to the jamb or casing.

That will hold that door upright, against the opening and let you work hands free while you are trying shim, adjust the door before you scribe it and take it to cut/plane/bevel.

You are going to have to buy his new DVD then. :laughing: Shows it about 30 times.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

I've watched the Festool video several times. They mention "optional" clamps for the track but most of the time didn't use them. What keeps the track from moving around on the work piece?


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## DKnafo (Feb 1, 2009)

Really like my cordless Dewalt. Wont handle all day cutting but the batteries last long enough for what I use it for. 

I do have a new never used Makita for sale if anyone in the New York area would like one.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> You are going to have to buy his new DVD then. :laughing: Shows it about 30 times.


You just saved me from that necessity. :laughing::thumbsup:

I could buy DVDs all year and never cover all the things I do. CT is my budget alternative.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

txgencon said:


> I've watched the Festool video several times. They mention "optional" clamps for the track but most of the time didn't use them. What keeps the track from moving around on the work piece?



There is a couple strips of grippy foam on the bottom of the rail.

I think I have clamped my rail down maybe a hand full of times in the last 2 years.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I will attest to the gripping of the Festool track saw. We used one recently to cut melamine panels for our basketball court and it worked flawlessly. I cannot imagine how those rubber grippy's hold so well on such a smooth surface, but they do indeed!


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I will clamp it if the piece is warped and I can't get the rail to lay flat.

Mafell is making a rail that has vacuum hold downs in it. There is a small line from the extractor that hooks to the end of their rails, turns it into a vac clamp.

They also have one that runs out on the rail and makes the cut and then comes back to you.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

warner, you truly are a tool nerd. where do you find all this stuff?


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

What is the price tag on the robot rail saw Warner?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Just a mere $2867.00 for the 120V version.

Here is what they make: http://www.mafell.com/products.html


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

aptpupil said:


> warner, you truly are a tool nerd. where do you find all this stuff?


Let's just say Europe gets all the cool tools.


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## Joe the chippy. (Jul 19, 2010)

Do all the brands of saw rails (makita dewalt etc) have the grippy strip? And can you interchange different brand rails with different brand plunge saws? 

Thank you.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Joe the chippy. said:


> Do all the brands of saw rails (makita dewalt etc) have the grippy strip? And can you interchange different brand rails with different brand plunge saws?
> 
> Thank you.



Yes to the first part, no to the second.


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## alboston (Feb 22, 2007)

I rarely clamp the tracks down. Although yesterday I was ripping some 8' lengths of prefinished ply and the track wanted to wander a little at the end.


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

The Makita and Festool rails can swap back and forth with at least the saws and many attachments.


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## jhark123 (Aug 26, 2008)

Thanks Warner, now I'm going to end up buying a 3k saw.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

TBFGhost said:


> The Makita and Festool rails can swap back and forth with at least the saws and many attachments.


I think the only thing that won't work from festool on the Makita rails are the parallel guides because of the anti tip lip on the Makita's.



jhark123 said:


> Thanks Warner, now I'm going to end up buying a 3k saw.


It is pretty sweet, I like the one with the rail that rolls up and stores in the systainer.

I apologize about the language barrier but...:laughing:






http://www.mafelltoolstore.com/ksp-40-flexistem--120-volt--.html


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## B.D.R. (May 22, 2007)

nice tool thanks for adding to my "i want list"


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## katoman (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks to all for all the input. Guess it will be the festool. :thumbsup:

Just have to save up a little.


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

I'm a little late to this party:laughing: I think thats a good choice kato. I have been looking at track saws myself now for a while. The choices around here that I could acctually touch and see are either dewalt or the festool. 

I just picked up the festool ts55. You can deffinetly tell its high quality! I was always against festool, thinking how much better could they really be. I think now I may be hooked!:shutup::laughing:


I don't want to hijack this tread, but for the guys with the track saws. I want to get two 55" tracks and the couplers, instead of the 118" track. The longs tracks will be way to hard to keep in my truck without getting messed up. 

When you couple the tracks, I am assuming there is now play and it will be just like a long track?


Dave


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

dkillianjr said:


> I'm a little late to this party:laughing: I think thats a good choice kato. I have been looking at track saws myself now for a while. The choices around here that I could acctually touch and see are either dewalt or the festool.
> 
> I just picked up the festool ts55. You can deffinetly tell its high quality! I was always against festool, thinking how much better could they really be. I think now I may be hooked!:shutup::laughing:
> 
> ...


When I connect my to short tracks I use my longest level to push them against to make sure they are dead straight. There's really no need for the longer tracks as long as you got a level to use to keep them connected straight. I keep mine in the festool padded bag. Takes up so run at all. I would get the longer tracks if I had a workshop though.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*Ya,,,*

Вы и ваши фантазии инструменты...:laughing::jester:


B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Вы и ваши фантазии инструменты...:laughing::jester:
> 
> 
> B,


You and your fancy tools


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

PrestigeR&D said:


> Вы и ваши фантазии инструменты...:laughing::jester:
> 
> 
> B,


[_Trans.] _You and your fancy tools

Now quit it! :bangin:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Tinstaafl said:


> [_Trans.] _You and your fancy tools
> 
> Now quit it! :bangin:


Hey, I already did that.:blink:


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Hey, I already did that.:blink:


Beat me by _that_ much. :sad:


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Festool offers a 106" and a 118" rail. Is the 106" sufficient for 8' panels.


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## Rustbucket (May 22, 2009)

txgencon said:


> Festool offers a 106" and a 118" rail. Is the 106" sufficient for 8' panels.


Yes, the 106" is fine. That's what I use.

Darcy, I like that Mafell you showed. I just wonder how positively the saw registers to the rail compared to the Festool? It doesn't look like it has a groove that rides over a protrusion in the rail.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Does each brand of plunge saw (Festool, Makita and Dewalt) use a blade unique to the brand? to plunge saws? Is it a special blade in the same way that the Crain saws use a special blade?


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

txgencon said:


> Does each brand of plunge saw (Festool, Makita and Dewalt) use a blade unique to the brand? to plunge saws? Is it a special blade in the same way that the Crain saws use a special blade?


 Festool and Makita use the same blade I think!


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## TBFGhost (Oct 9, 2008)

The Makita uses a blade that is 5mm larger is diameter at 165mm, Festool uses 160mm...I use 160mm blades in my makita tho as they are easy to get, so they do swap out.


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## PrestigeR&D (Jan 6, 2010)

*rail....bridge...*

:whistling:whistling same concept- not friendly on space efficiency..:laughing:

I know this is impractical for a lot of you guys,, but they did make these back in the day... the "ARN" a little different in set up.. weight:w00t: :laughing: but the same principle... Pretty cool machine..:thumbsup: i am not suggesting this,... but just thought this was an interesting piece of machinery...:notworthy



B.


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

Well, thanks to you guys, four days of snow/ice/cold (and the boredom that goes with that), I am now the owner (well, I will be when it all gets shipped) of a new SP6000K saw, 118" rail, 55" rail and a set of rail clamps. I got the saw and 55" rail on eBay and the 117" rail and clamps from Tyler Tool.


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## Andrew M. (May 25, 2008)

I have an barley used then ATF55[$150 of CL] w. case.
Before Christmas;
3 x 55" rails from Tool barn sale
*55" Guide Rail*/Makita-194368-5 ] 3 for $176.97

, w. Bosch rail clamps and connectors
[allprotools]
*Bosch 1607960008 Guide Rail Clamps (2 Pcs.)*
1607960008 $17.27 
Ordered: *1*
$17.27 

*Bosch 1602319003 Guide Rail Connector*
1602319003 $4.82 
Ordered: *2*
$9.64 
[Bosch parts are less than 1/2 the price of Festool and Swiss made, super quality]

All had free shipping too.

So for about $350 I can gloat I think. Should have bought another rail and cut it down for door bottoms. I leave 2 connected and breakdown only when needed to . The Bosch connectors go to their jig saw system but fit perfectly and are superb quality as are the clamps. I included the part numbers for you all 
Amazing what one will do to avoid getting hosed by Festool's price fixing. I know this bastard combo would never work for Warner:shifty: but for me I just love finding a deal.


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## sancho (Apr 3, 2010)

The festool as I have said before sort of reminds me of the multimaster in that the more I use it the more I find uses for it. Especially when it is used as a "system". The uses for MFT in combonation with te TS55 and the 55" tracks (2 ea) are endless. I added the paralel guides and I havent used my TS in a while.


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## mehtwo (Nov 14, 2010)

Is there a way to put a dado blade on a track saw?


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## txgencon (Jan 4, 2011)

mehtwo said:


> Is there a way to put a dado blade on a track saw?


No, but you can use a router to accomplish the same cut.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Andrew M. said:


> I have an barley used then ATF55[$150 of CL] w. case.
> Before Christmas;
> 3 x 55" rails from Tool barn sale
> *55" Guide Rail*/Makita-194368-5 ] 3 for $176.97
> ...


I would have rather spent the extra money and bought the festool. You would have had a better quality system with better warranty and better product support if you had any issues. Plus when it come time to upgrade you could have sold them for not a lot less than you paid for them and purchased the newer model when they come out or if you decided to keep them you would have had a tool that would last a lifetime and been able to purchase parts for it for almost as long.


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## darr1 (May 25, 2010)

i am buying the dewalt one next week


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## Andrew M. (May 25, 2008)

BC , What issues that require support? I have been using a track system for 10 years, a Tru Grip pro wide track w. PC framer saw on a sliding T track base. Never had any issues except the new systems are easier to set up and use.
The ATF55 is a great saw, just a previous model . The ATF55 that was barely used by someone who just did 1 job plunge cutting some existing Kitchen Cab. doors to make them have a glass inserts and decided he wanted to build furniture not do on site work. It is almost brand new for $150 w. systainer and blade. He needed money ASAP to pay for his expensive Euro sider table saw he bought. Besides, those Festool saws are bullet proof, at least that is what you all say. The Makita Rails are just as good as the Festool's maybe even heavier duty in x section, they interchange and the Bosch clamps and connectors are Swiss made parts. $350 for 3 x 55" rails and saw and clamps and connectors. That is way better than anything I have seen. 
Oh, OK I get it you are joking:thumbup:


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