# drywall over interior plaster/ brick walls



## n8sr (Nov 1, 2005)

I am currently working on a 100+ year old three story home.Ive already gutted all the plaster and lathe on the 3rd floor/finished attic area,hung 1/2
drwall,and completely finished on my own,this has taken 2 weeks of very long 
days.my first question is,being new to the busisness and having a hard time
finding good reliable help,is this too excessive of a timje scale for a 30x12 by
10ft room. second,i have currently run into another indecisive problem,in the
second floor master bed.,3 out for walls are outside brick walls,and the plaster was placed onto the brick w/out mesh or lath.I was proceding to
place 1/4 drywall over all the walls but what could i use on the outside walls to attach the drywall or should i just skim coat all the walls and not use sheetrock at all.


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## K2 (Jul 8, 2005)

Do your 3 out of 4 walls need electrical in them? That might determine the best way to finish them.


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## n8sr (Nov 1, 2005)

*reply to rob53*

no the customer does not want to buck up and pay to run new electrical,they
have decided to keep the k&t. altough i strongly disagree


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## Zendik (Sep 18, 2005)

n8sr said:


> second,i have currently run into another indecisive problem,in the
> second floor master bed.,3 out for walls are outside brick walls,and the plaster was placed onto the brick w/out mesh or lath.I was proceding to
> place 1/4 drywall over all the walls but what could i use on the outside walls to attach the drywall or should i just skim coat all the walls and not use sheetrock at all.


Depends if the customer wants to save space or lose a couple of inches. I'd run hat channel on the brick and then rock over it with the 1/2 if losing a inch or two was accecptable....


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## n8sr (Nov 1, 2005)

the customer has been worried about losing squarefootage even though it is a small amount,I think imj going to use and adhesive to fix my issue.thanks for your help


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## catalfanoc (Feb 11, 2005)

we do tons of three story brown stones in philly all we do is nail it on with roofing nails and glue it just rember to pull all the trim off. If you decide to do electrical they just have to channel it.


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## Tonkadad (Jun 22, 2005)

How do you deal with moisture penatrating thru the brick and causing a problem with the interior drywall.

Also I would recommend looking for a helper. I just started with employee's this year and it makes a big difference. Sure there are hassles but have someone who can do the demo or clean up, help carry materials etc... is really nice.

You can always hire temp labor, the company takes care of all the insurance and payroll and you can just get them when you need them. Also if you get a lemon you can send him back and ask for another worker. When you find one who is decent you can always try to request him in the future.

It can really make a difference.

As far as the time needed to do the job I can see it taking one guy that long. Are you doing it T&M or by the job? Now if you had a helper and you could have got it done quicker then you should be making more money, especially if you are doing it T&M. Charge him out at your same price.


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## boardslinger (Apr 1, 2004)

If all you want to do is slap drywall on the outer walls, Laminate it. Blob some joint compoumd on the backside of the rock and slap it up. then slap the board a few times to get it to really stick.


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## housedocs (Jan 10, 2005)

boardslinger said:


> If all you want to do is slap drywall on the outer walls, Laminate it. Blob some joint compoumd on the backside of the rock and slap it up. then slap the board a few times to get it to really stick.



Board I have to agree that drywall mud is sticky stuff and will stick to most any clean surface, regardless of the material, but would actually trust mud to hold new board to a plaster or brick wall?:no: That might work in the desert, but if you are anyplace with normal high humidity, the stuff is going to fall off the wall relatively quick. Personally I'd either go with channel or else furring strips and attach the drywall to that. 

To me this sounds like a nightmare job for a cheap client, I'd probably take a pass on the whole shooting match.


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## boardslinger (Apr 1, 2004)

Shoot housedocs. we use to get r done that way back in Iowa, all the time. Once the mud dries, it's dry. But I would agree with you if he wanted it done right, fir it out, and start from scratch.


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## n8sr (Nov 1, 2005)

I dont think I would want to mud the sheetrock to brick because of moisture issues on mo..I am currnetly about finished with the mater bedroom and I decided to use drywall adhesive and also ran 6 tapcons into the brick,I let 1 sheet set for a week with no tapcons, just adhesive and it was pretty solid,and with the tapcons,it isnt going anywhere.also i did recently pick up a helper to do alot of laboring so things are moving a little faster and he is starting to learn a couple of things.This has been a frustrating job becuase when i started the job business was looking quite slow but after demolition ive been getting pretty booked up and i took this job way to cheap.also working w/people that dont want to spend what it takes to the job correctly has got me going insane,trying to get out of this one asap. thanks


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