# Painting pressure treated



## ESSaustin (Mar 27, 2010)

How long should I let pressure treated wood cure before I paint it?

I deconstructed an old garage a few months ago, and am finally rebuilding it. I was given a lot of PT that I am using for the main structural. I was on a jobsite last Friday and asked a painter how long to wait. He said 24 hours. Insert rolley eyed face icon. 

For anyone about to tell me to do a search: I have. I'm sure it has been discussed, but I am having a hard time finding threads. 

Thanks for the help!


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## world llc (Dec 9, 2008)

we let em sit for a few months.

i think the correct answer involves using a moisture meter... whenever all the timbers fall below ? %


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

How long it needs to sit depends on how wet it was. I've never used a moisture meter (would be helpful), can usually tell by looking at it.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

world llc said:


> i think the correct answer involves using a moisture meter... whenever all the timbers fall below ? %


General consensus seems to be 15%, while some want as low as 12%.

Problem is, 10-12% can be pretty hard to hit unless you have a good stretch of dry, sunny weather.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

I wouldn't paint it, it won't last. I would stain it. They have all sorts of stains in a variety of colors.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

I tell people to wait about six months. Staining as already suggested it is the best idea, otherwise prime with oil primer.


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## Miss Brown (Mar 30, 2011)

I usually wait till it's not damp feeling, (a month plus in good weather) then oil primer. A year ago I did a science experiment on my house and primed/ 1st coated with aura. Now, the color was greeny-gold so if the copper leeched through, I won't see it. But it's STUCK. The pt was pretty damp, I'm kinda amazed...


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

All our building lumber and outside trim is PT and we never worry about it,:whistling the house is built and then painted:blink:


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

As long as it isn't juicy, as in when you drive a fastner and see water come out you will be fine. I use a solid acrylic stain like SW woodscapes to prime. It does a better job of not letting the green bleed through. 

When the new pt came out paint mfg's spec'ed 12 months dry time.


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## Miss Brown (Mar 30, 2011)

> All our building lumber and outside trim is PT and we never worry about it,:whistling the house is built and then painted:blink:


It must be awesome to be you. I'm a little jealous. I have to buy KD just so I can sleep at night. 


12 MONTHS????? Sure, that's gona happen.


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

Miss Brown here in Hawaii if it's not PT the bugs will be in it very fast and with treated lumber the bugs will be in it just not as fast. The lumber yards even sells inside trim that is treated. We love the termite here they give us a lot of work:thumbup:


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

The only time we use untreated lumber or clear wood is for throwaway stuff like forms or high end stuff for trim like popular or exotic woods. I find it very freaky to see the pics with all the clear lumber used in the building on this post.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

From what I have gathered from Cabots site.


> Cabot would recommend staining your deck when the moisture content is 15% or lower.





Dirtywhiteboy said:


> The only time we use untreated lumber or clear wood is for throwaway stuff like forms or high end stuff for trim like popular or exotic woods. I find it very freaky to see the pics with all the clear lumber used in the building on this post.


Do they still dip all the cuts there DWB?


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## Dirtywhiteboy (Oct 15, 2010)

I haven't dipped or sprayed an end cut in a long time Will, never on the tracts or normal stuff. Maybe on some owner builder stuff, with all the new safety regs and use of poison it's better to have a co. that specializes in bug spraying come at the end of framing and elec. and plumbing and spray the whole frame and then they give a guarantee for so many years. With this it is well worth the money and helps if you go to sell the home. Even on the tracts they have a guy in a hazmat suit come in and spray the outside before the siding and the inside right before insulation and drywall.


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## ESSaustin (Mar 27, 2010)

I'm not going to purchase a moisture meter, but I think i will head in the direction of staining. Thanks for the input everyone.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

ESSaustin said:


> I'm not going to purchase a moisture meter, but I think i will head in the direction of staining. Thanks for the input everyone.


Just something to consider, the moister meters can be had for very cheap. you can get one on ebay for like $8. And it good for other things too, like testing the moisture of fire wood, of testing to see if your friends are dehydrated.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

WildWill said:


> Just something to consider, the moister meters can be had for very cheap. you can get one on ebay for like $8. And it good for other things too, like testing the moisture of fire wood, of testing to see if your friends are dehydrated.


Will, if you have a minute can you toss me the link to an inexpensive meter. All of the ones I see are several hundred bucks - out of my price range. I wanted to get one before, but just too expensive. 

I agree, with the usage. I think I'd use it a lot especially when purchasing new lumber.

If you can't find one, no big deal. I've been getting by fine without one. :thumbsup:


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## SuperiorHIP (Aug 15, 2010)

Lowes had some for around $25 for a while, not sure if they still have them.
Staining is great, we get lots of calls to paint decks and I usually at the least talk them into staining the deck and painting the railings (if their colors/sheen preferences call for it).


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

Click on the pic to see the product at Lowe's.


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## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

15% is a good goal. i've painted it before when redwood/pt has been above that (17%) and haven't had problems so far. i always use zinsser oil primer for this task.


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## Miss Brown (Mar 30, 2011)

> Miss Brown here in Hawaii if it's not PT the bugs will be in it very fast and with treated lumber the bugs will be in it just not as fast.


Yessir, pardon, I suppose Kd can refer to anything...but I shoulda said KD PT...kiln dried pressure treated....It's wildly expensive. I don't love the termites here (New Orleans) they're eating my favorite town. Chomp, chomp...Speaking of...anyone have any experience with the paint on blue stuff? I've only seen it once, I believe it's cobalt and like, propylene glycol...you can paint it on crappy new pine, and it sinks in and NOTHING will eat it...anyone? Ok, I know...no...I swear it exists....


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## Miss Brown (Mar 30, 2011)

And on staining...well, I've found it doesn't hold up here as well as paint, but that's here...At least you'll get a call back in 2 years to re-stain rather than 6 months to repaint for free.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

jb4211 said:


> I wouldn't paint it, *it won't last*. I would stain it. They have all sorts of stains in a var.....
> 
> I have to disagree. I have a couple of 4x4 treated posts on my porch that I painted...heck, not really sure how many years ago. I would think at least 10 years ago. I think it was longer thasn that.
> 
> The paint is still very solid except right at the bottom against the concrete porch. But, they were very dry when painted.


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

jb4211 said:


> Will, if you have a minute can you toss me the link to an inexpensive meter. All of the ones I see are several hundred bucks - out of my price range. I wanted to get one before, but just too expensive.
> 
> I agree, with the usage. I think I'd use it a lot especially when purchasing new lumber.
> 
> If you can't find one, no big deal. I've been getting by fine without one. :thumbsup:


Here's one right here, it'll give you the basic info. Most likely more then you'll ever really need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-4-P...351?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b50d1daf


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