# Framing for one piece tub/shower unit



## Brian Peters

I was installing some of these in a remodel today and was wondering how others do this. I usually notch my studs so the screw flanges sit flush with the framing, makes it easier on the drywall guys. I know it's not always possible to do this...you have to have the tub in place before you put in the final wall.
I have sometimes nailed furring strips to bring the framing out flush . I'd like to hear some discussion.. is it any advantage to you drywall guys? Should drywall even go down over the flange?


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## sunkist

brian i am a little lost with your post, one piece/ flange?, drywall in wet aera?


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## Brian Peters

Yes..one piece, this one today was Delta brand. Here in Kentucky these are quite common...and yes they put drywall around them.
This is what I'm wanting to hear...discussion from other places, hoping I learn a few things


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## Brian Peters

This is what I'm talking about


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## Brutus

we just frame the opening. dry wall goes over the flange, then some trim.


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## Dirtywhiteboy

I'm with BigB. we just frame it, Those things are usually 5' here. Frame it 5'1/4"


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## moorewarner

I've used the furring strip method and in similar types of situations rasped the backside of the drywall.


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## William James

Brian Peters said:


> I was installing some of these in a remodel today and was wondering how others do this. I usually notch my studs so the screw flanges sit flush with the framing, makes it easier on the drywall guys. I know it's not always possible to do this...you have to have the tub in place before you put in the final wall.
> I have sometimes nailed furring strips to bring the framing out flush . I'd like to hear some discussion.. is it any advantage to you drywall guys? Should drywall even go down over the flange?


The drywall guys dont matter. Its the carpenters that need to deal with the curve! :whistling
Yes, every adjacent wall "should be" shimmed out. But most times, because of cost or laziness, they aren't. 

I still use greenboard/purpleboard when painting the rest of bathroom. Would use cement board if tiling. Some use the fiberglass board...


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## William James

Oh, notching is fine too. But i never bothered, seemed like more work. You know what you're doing. Don't over think it.


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## WarnerConstInc.

I just hack out the back of the drywall.


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## slowsol

Everyone I've ever seen, the drywallers stop their board at the flange and hot mud/tape over the flange.


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## griz

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I just hack out the back of the drywall.


Most common way I have seen the issue dealt with...:thumbup:


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## CanningCustom

Well if it is a one piece no ceiling i notch the studs. If it is a one piece with ceiling i'll just ad backing inside the framing and set it back the thickness of the tub flange.


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## ohiohomedoctor

I have done this many different ways including all the above. Last year we did one where the drywaller installed 1/4 over the flange and then mesh taped the whole kitten caboodle. I thought it turned out nice.


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## txgencon

I believe it's the builder's job to see that the walls are firred out. Sometimes, that's three walls in a 5x10 to 5x12 room. Whatever it takes.

The framer is long gone. 

I don't really want the plumber hacking on studs. 

I certainly don't want the rock hanger hacking the back of the drywall.

I've seen houses where there wasn't any consideration given to the offset created by the thickness of the flange. Looks like crap.


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## ohiohomedoctor

Especially when the walls are tiled.


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## mnjconstruction

I always fur the walls out the 1/4" it needs to match. That way its all ready to go.


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