# Bell and spigot 4" PVC?



## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

I have to install some 4" bell and spigot pipe for a drain we are running under a parking lot. Tomorrow.

The last time I fooled with this stuff I recall having a terrible time getting any field cuts into the fittings. The guys were trying to put a bevel on the cut end with what ever we had, (which was not much at the time).

So what I want to know is what is the best way to bevel field cuts so these fittings will get together easier?

At this point I have an angle grinder in the truck and a couple different grinding wheels to see what might work best. 

But I know that some of you deal with this all the time....Give me some direction, Thanks!!


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

An angle grinder is what most guys use. Rigid makes a tool to put on the perfect bevel, but it's big money. An angle grinder works fine.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

We just use a hand help rasp. For 8" sewer main, we'll use the gas powered chop saw and then touch it up with the rasp.


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

Well I couldn't ask for any quicker response, Thanks guys, angle grinder it is! :thumbsup:


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

stihl chop saw on everything


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

What do you do Day? lay the saw on an angle and roll the pipe?

Can you explain the procedure?


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## TMatt142 (Apr 28, 2006)

*The Art Of Beveling......*

chop saw on everything. With the smaller pipe hold the saw at an agle and have one of your compadre's turn the pipe using the side of the saw blade. This brings up a great little craft. I watched plumbers beveling ductile in the most unusual way. Instead of using the side of the ductile blade, working it around the point of the end, one plumber actually used the edge of the blade, cutting a perfect wedge, all the way around the pipe end. Takes longer to do, plus lots of practice! Not sure if I explained how he did that right....


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

3" and up i hit pipe with a router,,

on socket (inserts) i go heavy in the primer & let it soak a lilttle longer than usual, this softens them up ...

ray


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## C buck (Mar 4, 2007)

Chop saw is the way to go. Cut it, tilt the saw and have another guy spin the pipe.


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## PipeGuy (Oct 8, 2004)

tgeb said:


> What do you do Day? lay the saw on an angle and roll the pipe?
> 
> Can you explain the procedure?



Place the saw on the ground and hold it firmly with the throttle about 60% open. Hold the piece of pipe horizontally against the saw blade at roughly a 30 degree angle and rotate (spin) the pipe along its axis while maintaining the 30 degree angle until you have an even bevel around the pipe end. Don't bevel the pipe so much that the pipe end becomes wafer thin. The bevel need only knock the square end off.
Use plenty of pipe lube of crisco when assembling the joint.


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

good point too thin a bevel could fold & that baby is never going in..

are you guys talking about friction joints for drainage or pressurized systems?


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## Kgmz (Feb 9, 2007)

We also use a Stihl chop saw as described above. You can use the angle grinder, but a chop saw is much faster.

Also for you guys with a Stihl chop saw. Get the little cart that your saw will bolt to. Instant little walk behind saw, works great for cutting asphalt and concrete if you get a diamond blade.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

the water dept. here no longer allows crisco, or any animal fat or vegetable based pipe lubricant because of the possible bacterial contamination. funny, nobody died, got sick for 40 yrs...now we have the stuff my pipelayer calls "smurf cum".....it's a lube that has a blue dye in it so the inspectors know that we're complying with the regs. if the stuff gets the SLIGHTEST bit wet, it's no good, have to dry, and reapply. if you're working in wet conditions, you just wait until inspector turns his head, and use the stuff you have in the ziplock bag stuck in your shirt pocket. what works real good, all kidding aside........is dawn dish soap.


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## POOLMANinCT (Oct 7, 2006)

just go back & hit the finished joints w/ papa smurf


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

All good advice fellas, I'll let you all know how I do!:thumbup:


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

Tom, if you use your chop saw, make sure you file any sharp edges. It takes practice to get a smooth bevel.

For lube use the pipe lube that our pipe dealer sells. We call it peanut butter because that is what it looks and kinda smells like.


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## Little (Jul 22, 2006)

Bevelling pvc with the side of cut-off blade on the chop saw is ok, but I don't allow my guys to use it when working with ductile as it kills the blades. Instead i got them a grinder to bevel the ductile, works twice as fast and super clean that way.


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## beachbum0286 (Mar 1, 2007)

Not to steal the thread, but as for chop saws what does everyone use? We use what use to be known as partners now husqvarna saws. They don't last nearly as long as a stihl, but I think they easier to handle while beveling pipe and cutting in general.


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

I use one of these it work great. We have done a couple drainage projects with it. Just insert on the end of the pipe and spin it by hand a couple times and a perfect bevel.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

beachbum0286 said:


> Not to steal the thread, but as for chop saws what does everyone use? We use what use to be known as partners now husqvarna saws. They don't last nearly as long as a stihl, but I think they easier to handle while beveling pipe and cutting in general.



We have Stihl saws.


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

Nac said:


> I use one of these it work great. We have done a couple drainage projects with it. Just insert on the end of the pipe and spin it by hand a couple times and a perfect bevel.


That is pretty neat Nac. What size pipe will that take and how much was it ??


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## Nac (Apr 16, 2006)

I think it can do up to 12" I dont remember how much but if you search online for pvc pipe beveler you should find it and how much


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

we like the stihl 350's. light, balanced well, but stihl doesn't make them anymore....so at every auction i go to, see a used one, we buy em up. the stihl guy here in the winter time completely rebuilds several for us.


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## fhdesign (Jan 17, 2007)

I like the husqvarna, good local dealer, also used stihl in the past also good.


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## Little (Jul 22, 2006)

All new Stihl saws, the ones witht the compression shut-off. Boy does that save your hands at times.


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## denick (Feb 13, 2006)

tgeb,

A young fellow who came to work had a tool that worked everytime on gasketed pipe.

A medium size flat blade srew driver. You just stick it up under the gaset and rip it out "they don't work right anyway"


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## funk5stacks (Mar 19, 2007)

we use partner saws, if the pipe is pvc one man can usually bevel it himself if he's crafty, and we almost always use pipe soap (see above post  i.e. roofdrains), the only thing we watch is nick'ing the pipe to far back where it will rest against the bell, this could cause a sanitary joint to leak while being tested and can be a pain to locate.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

funk5stacks said:


> this could cause a sanitary joint to leak while being tested and can be a pain to locate.



no kidding, pulling airbags thru the main, inflating/deflating every 14' sucks finding a leak. seems like it never fails, it's one of the last joints you test  that's why i've gone to the no leak bonus with my guys. amazing how few we've had, if any since we've gone that route. on any given job, ALL pipe on that job has to pass in order to get bonus, if one line fails, they lose it all


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## DigIt (Apr 23, 2007)

*New Husqvarna Saw for bevelling PVC- Works Great!!*

Husqvarna has a brand new saw out now for bevelling SDR PVC. It can do 4, 6, and 8". It works great, I have a friend who's employer buaght one. It cuts and bevels in about 20 seconds, and anybody can use it. My buddy said it's one man job, and they can cut and bevell PVC faster than ever.


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## DigIt (Apr 23, 2007)

*Speedmill Picture*

Thought I'd put a picture up so you guys can see what I'm talking about.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

now, THAT looks slicker'n snot on a doorknob where can i buy one?


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## DigIt (Apr 23, 2007)

Yep, I agree, it is that slick. Wait until you try it or see it work. 

I guess you should just go to your local Husqvarna/Partner distributor that sells cut-off saws to contractors. They should be able to buy it directly from Husqvarna. It's brand new so nobody knows about it yet. My buddy said that his Project Manager doesn't want there competition to get a hold of it..... it works so good! I'm beggin our owner to get'em, he said he will soon, he was impressed. 

I think it sells for around $1700, but I've heard it's worth every penny and more. I bet it'd pay for itself.


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

went to their site, didn't see it. do you have a URL that tells a little more about it?


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## DigIt (Apr 23, 2007)

*http://us.husqvarnacp.com/node1552.aspx?nid=12701&pid=20151*

This site won't let me post a URL for some reason.

I found it at husqvarnacp.com then go to 'Americas', then go to products, then go to machines, then click on power cutters, scrool down and it's listed as the Husqvarna K750 Speedmill, or you could google it. I did and the husqvarna site is one that comes up. 

Hopes this helps


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## DigIt (Apr 23, 2007)

I pasted the URL in the title box in my last post, so just cut and paste that in your web browser, should take you right to it.


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## LNG24 (Oct 30, 2005)

Here is a link to another version. Does 1 1/2" to 12"

http://www.jimslimstools.com/Search.aspx?Keyword=pipe+beveler


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## funk5stacks (Mar 19, 2007)

dayexco said:


> no kidding, pulling airbags thru the main, inflating/deflating every 14' sucks finding a leak. seems like it never fails, it's one of the last joints you test  that's why i've gone to the no leak bonus with my guys. amazing how few we've had, if any since we've gone that route. on any given job, ALL pipe on that job has to pass in order to get bonus, if one line fails, they lose it all


The bonus incentive is a really good idea, we're not quite there yet though. We've only had one leak in one of our sanitary lines in the past 4 or 5 years. Some careless operator over compacted right above a wye and caused a hairline crack in the housing :whistling .


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