# Deadbolt strike reinforcement plate vs. frame reinforcement plate?



## tipitop (Dec 3, 2013)

Talked with customer about protection from kick in door. I said that is reinforcement strike plate better. That yellow one that come with all Schlage deadbolt set. He thought that plate that go behind door frame in area of deadbolt is better. We went my way. I think reinforcement plate should be tough to brake. Yellow one in this link - http://www.lowes.com/pd_216034-76018-E+2482-L_0__?productId=3407304#BVRRWidgetID


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

tipitop said:


> Talked with customer about protection from kick in door. I said that is reinforcement strike plate better. That yellow one that come with all Schlage deadbolt set. He thought that plate that go behind door frame in area of deadbolt is better. We went my way. I think reinforcement plate should be tough to brake. Yellow one in this link - http://www.lowes.com/pd_216034-76018-E+2482-L_0__?productId=3407304#BVRRWidgetID


That pos is a waste of time.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

This one is supposed to be pretty bad arse. 

http://www.theultimatelock.com/


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

tipitop said:


> He thought that plate that go behind door frame in area of deadbolt is better.


He's right. You did him no favor by talking him out of it.


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## tipitop (Dec 3, 2013)

Tinstaafl said:


> He's right. You did him no favor by talking him out of it.


Meh it do not have any screws that go to studs. Just small screws that go into wood door frame. Hence many pepole can brake that door frame still alwais. This guy agree with me http://www.gaterslocksmith.com/blog...-strike-plate-the-forgotten-half-of-the-lock/


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## tipitop (Dec 3, 2013)

Inner10 said:


> That pos is a waste of time.


Is it anyone have experience where safety strike plate was broken and frame reinforcement plate hold.


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## GettingBy (Aug 19, 2010)

I've heard that if you can delay the burglar one minute [with either hardware setup] he will go to the next house, unless he is specifically targeting this house.

This one minute number is decades old and may vary up or down.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

tipitop said:


> Meh it do not have any screws that go to studs. Just small screws that go into wood door frame. Hence many pepole can brake that door frame still alwais. This guy agree with me http://www.gaterslocksmith.com/blog...-strike-plate-the-forgotten-half-of-the-lock/


Who the heck would use those toy screws? Do you install hinges with the screws in the package?

I have 4" and 6" screws for strikes. All strikes get at least 4" screws. I know it's overkill but I'd rather be over than under. 

I also put a screw in all the hinges that goes to structure.


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## Tinstaafl (Jan 6, 2008)

tipitop said:


> Meh it do not have any screws that go to studs. Just small screws that go into wood door frame.


You could use long screws into the studs with a dress plate, and it would be 90% as effective as what you chose. Those long screws can bend as the jamb splinters, allowing the bolt to escape the plate even though it's still hanging there.

With a larger plate on the backside of the jamb, you are not relying on only an inch or so at the edge to resist splintering. Essentially the entire jamb would have to break in half edgewise to defeat that plate. In that case it's not so much the depth of the screws, but their shear resistance.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I've seen those busted right out, even with long screws.

People breaking in aren't just 5 year olds with a butter knife...


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## Morning Wood (Jan 12, 2008)

*Deadbolt Strike Reinforcement Plate Vs. Frame Reinforcement Plate?*

Install an outswing door.


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## FrankSmith (Feb 21, 2013)

I worked for a remodeling company who had installed a door that had been broken into. It had the secondary plate by Shlage installed. The forced entry caused the door frame to split, as well as the stud. The casing and drywall broke as well. 

When the boss heard this he said "it's a good thing we installed that plate". Good in what way? In this instance all it did was cause more damage. Of course the reason it was good is so the installer of the door does not appear at fault that the door was an easy target. 

So my take is. Install the hardware that comes with a good brand of door knob. You can't stop someone from breaking in if it is they are set on it but you have to do you part so you don't look like a hack when it happens.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

On the average dead bolt, anybody with a decent set of channel lock pliers won't care what you reinforce the strike zone with.

Twist and done.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

SmallTownGuy said:


> On the average dead bolt, anybody with a decent set of channel lock pliers won't care what you reinforce the strike zone with.
> 
> Twist and done.


Twist what? Bumping would be easier than forcing anything.


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## tipitop (Dec 3, 2013)

SmallTownGuy said:


> On the average dead bolt, anybody with a decent set of channel lock pliers won't care what you reinforce the strike zone with.
> 
> Twist and done.


TBH if I would want to brake in would show up with sawzall and grinder powered with battery and a gorilla bar. No matter what door would be below 10 minutes.


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## Walraven (Jan 24, 2014)

I used to do a lot of burglary repair .If the jamb holds the door doesn't if the door holds the jamb doesn't if both hold they break the nearest window . In my experience the biggest deterent is a big bad dog.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

tipitop said:


> TBH if I would want to brake in would show up with sawzall and grinder powered with battery and a gorilla bar. No matter what door would be below 10 minutes.


Average response time for the cops in my town is under 6 minutes. No way is a burglar going to take any longer than a minute to break in.


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

tipitop said:


> TBH if I would want to brake in would show up with sawzall and grinder powered with battery and a gorilla bar. No matter what door would be below 10 minutes.


On a standard Schlage or Qwikset, deadbolt, I would be done about 9 minutes and 30 seconds before you.

But you remind of a an actual burglary that happened here:
The dumb azzes intention was to rob a buddy's appliance store, which is next door to a Tru Value hardware, which is next door to my favorite breakfast restaurant.

So, they prybar open the back door to the hardware, grab a new sawzall, stuff a grit blade in it and drag a power cord out to the appliance store and buzz through THOSE locks, and pull out a couple of huge widescreen TVs.

Good score right?
So a day later, these jack azzes are in a store in Troy - asking how much a controller box would cost for a particular wide screen, and how to warranty another that had cracked. Idiots.

The manager got suspicious, called Johnny law, and they were busted.

Now, meanwhile, this Tru Value, they could have kept loading up with Porter Cable and Makita tools - which just about any low life would have paid good money for.

:no::no:

Nobody can make up stoopid chit like this.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Walraven said:


> In my experience the biggest detergent is a big bad dog.


Laundry day must be fun at your house.:whistling


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

If a person wants into your house, they are going to get in... While I recommend the reinforced plates and screws to those who've heard about them, I also remind them that neither will do anything to protect glass...

Path of least resistance...

.
Even an alarm only shortens their time in the house... if you are that concerned over these issues, the best option is video and a monitored account, and advertising you have it...

.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Twist what? Bumping would be easier than forcing anything.


Bumping a lock isn't always fast and easy, I will attempt to zip, rake and spp a lock before resorting to bump keys. Bump keys are great when you have a lock with a shallow pin hidden behind a deep cut on a tight keyway making it hard to pick that pin without over setting the one in front. 

I have a set of 30 bump keys and I rarely use them.


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## kixnbux (Feb 12, 2015)

DeWalt 20v drill. Half inch steel bit. = master key to all cheap chit locks and deadbolts. It'll even retract the bolt for you as it goes through. Almost as fast as digging for the actual key in your pocket then using it


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## gRobb (Jul 18, 2015)

In my house, I used 2"x1/4"x14" channel iron bolted to 3-4 studs to backup the strike plate of a pick proof Mut-T-Lock deadbolt set on a wrap around door reinforcer with 3/16" plates on two sides. For maximum deterrent I added an alarm and fake video cameras. So far so good. The doors are wood, so they can be broken.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

tipitop said:


> Is it anyone have experience where safety strike plate was broken and frame reinforcement plate hold.




For whatever reason, last fall I must have done a dozen break-in door replacements.

The doors with the metal plate screwed into the back of the jamb held.

Doors with no plate, jamb shattered.

Doors with the double strike plate like your picture, some held, others no.

What was consistent-Fiberglass doors broke at the lock bores. The jambs or plates held, but the actual door slab broke.

Steel doors with the plate on the back of the jamb held up best.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

kixnbux said:


> DeWalt 20v drill. Half inch steel bit. = master key to all cheap chit locks and deadbolts. It'll even retract the bolt for you as it goes through. Almost as fast as digging for the actual key in your pocket then using it


A half inch bit drills kinda slow, 3/8" aircraft and set your bit at the shear line. Toughest part is hooking your bit on the anti-drill pins.



gRobb said:


> In my house, I used 2"x1/4"x14" channel iron bolted to 3-4 studs to backup the strike plate of a pick proof Mut-T-Lock deadbolt set on a wrap around door reinforcer with 3/16" plates on two sides. For maximum deterrent I added an alarm and fake video cameras. So far so good. The doors are wood, so they can be broken.


Years ago I had a nice Medeco pad lock on the back of a cube van, my father said why put such an expensive lock on a crappy plywood door, few chops with an axe and you're in.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

Inner10 said:


> Years ago I had a nice Medeco pad lock on the back of a cube van, my father said why put such an expensive lock on a crappy plywood door, few chops with an axe and you're in.



or a cordless saw


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Inner10 said:


> Bumping a lock isn't always fast and easy, I will attempt to zip, rake and spp a lock before resorting to bump keys. Bump keys are great when you have a lock with a shallow pin hidden behind a deep cut on a tight keyway making it hard to pick that pin without over setting the one in front.
> 
> I have a set of 30 bump keys and I rarely use them.


I dont think I said it was fast and easy, but faster and easier than forcing a lock with a set of channel locks. I know you want to show off and puff your chest but twist someone else's words.

EDIT: although I do have to say it's impressive you are an expert in every damn field but are a successful and busy with your low volt electric.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I dont think I said it was fast and easy, but faster and easier than forcing a lock with a set of channel locks. I know you want to show off and puff your chest but twist someone else's words.
> 
> EDIT: although I do have to say it's impressive you are an expert in every damn field but are a successful and busy with your low volt electric.


Unless it's a Kwikset Smart Key you won't open it with channellocks.

Access control is a significant part of my business, we install plenty of door hardware. Lockpicking is a hobby of mine.


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## kixnbux (Feb 12, 2015)

Inner10 said:


> A half inch bit drills kinda slow, 3/8" aircraft and set your bit at the shear line. Toughest part is hooking your bit on the anti-drill pins.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

kixnbux said:


> Inner10 said:
> 
> 
> > A half inch bit drills kinda slow, 3/8" aircraft and set your bit at the shear line. Toughest part is hooking your bit on the anti-drill pins.
> ...


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Inner10 said:


> Unless it's a Kwikset Smart Key you won't open it with channellocks.



Of course. Must be so.

And brother, you (the bank) sell me a house and hand me a set of keys at closing, and at 5 PM, and they don't fit, or skip town on a rental, I'll be twisting that damned deadbolt off with a pair of Irwin Channel locks.


Of course, next up is complaining the vid isn't a kwikset, or that those aren't Irwins, or how dare I ruin a perfectly good 40 dollar lock - knowing half the jackasses in town have a key - except me, and a new 2-door combo is 45 bucks at Menards....

uh-huh.

I'll leave pretty for the ballet dancers, I've got work to do.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Tom R said:


> Thanks, OK, - - gimme a 'few'.


It a hobby of his.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Of course. Must be so.
> 
> And brother, you (the bank) sell me a house and hand me a set of keys at closing, and at 5 PM, and they don't fit, or skip town on a rental, I'll be twisting that damned deadbolt off with a pair of Irwin Channel locks.
> 
> ...


That's a mortise cylinder not a deadbolt...


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## 91782 (Sep 6, 2012)

Inner10 said:


> That's a mortise cylinder not a deadbolt...


Damm I overlooked one possible "yeah but" - my bad.
:laughing::laughing:


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

SmallTownGuy said:


> Damm I overlooked one possible "yeah but" - my bad.
> :laughing::laughing:


That and you rarely see them without a trim ring. Good luck getting a grip on them tight enough when the outer ring just keeps spinning.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Who the heck would use those toy screws? Do you install hinges with the screws in the package?
> 
> I have 4" and 6" screws for strikes. All strikes get at least 4" screws. I know it's overkill but I'd rather be over than under.
> 
> I also put a screw in all the hinges that goes to structure.



6" screw?
I think I would be worried about hitting a wire to/from the switch box.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

TimNJ said:


> 6" screw?
> I think I would be worried about hitting a wire to/from the switch box.


I have done that. :sad:


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

I won't even pound in any framing nail heads standing proud.
My thought is 3 1/4" nail and if I drive it in more, that might be all it needs to go into a wire.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

TimNJ said:


> 6" screw?
> I think I would be worried about hitting a wire to/from the switch box.


Depends on the door. 3/4" jamb, 1/2" to structure, three studs. And don't screw towards a box.


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## TimNJ (Sep 7, 2005)

TNTSERVICES said:


> Depends on the door. 3/4" jamb, 1/2" to structure, three studs. And don't screw towards a box.


You're still going through with a 6".

I don't know where that electrician stapled his wires and I don't want to find out the hard way.


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