# Lord I really need some help here



## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Ohio painter said:


> I have managed without a moisture meter, I would give it a solid day of drying after rain stops. Use common sense, if unsure give it another day until you are sure.
> I understand using a moisture meter on green wood but after a year of drying it is ready.


This really depends. There is a building that the North side is sheltered and the ground is wet. It takes about a week after you wash it, depending on drying conditions. Never ever has dried in 2 days. South side gets sun and wind, so it's ready to go in 2 days.


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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

hdavis said:


> This really depends. There is a building that the North side is sheltered and the ground is wet. It takes about a week after you wash it, depending on drying conditions. Never ever has dried in 2 days. South side gets sun and wind, so it's ready to go in 2 days.


 It does depend. Some lower buildings in a 'valley of sorts' take longer too. 

I remember speed masking our barn after the beady dew burnout in late morning. So I could get some production going with the Titan and back brush. When you add the dry off + mask time, it may not leave but some part of the day for actual painting so you might have to prepare to ramp things more than usual. While letting the masking on overnight can be a little risky. 

BTW you may or may not need green paper with lacquer - depends on solvent content.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

bradleyheathha said:


> Thanks for so much advice. Although it sounds like a crazy position to be in this isn't as bad as it sems. Even a PPG rep of 30 years recommended this lacquer then latex combination. For whatever reason it's what everybody does and accepts around here.
> 
> Would take forever to address what everybody's said so if I don't then I apologize. I appreciate your advice all the same.
> 
> ...


Never used your product so I couldnt say how dry it needs to be (the precise measurement). But new cedar fence boards can be practically dripping wet inside out. 

Now, the spec sheet you provided says it needs to weather for two months and that criteria has been met. If they are dry to the touch I would think you will be ok. Coatings have perm (permeation) ratings that spec how much water can move through the coating. As long as the perm rating isn't 1 (which means water tight) the wood will be able to breath. Most exterior latex paints don't have a perfect perm rating but some elastomeric coatings do. Also, the inside isn't being coated so moisture could move that way.

If the cedar tests between 6 and 12% it would be pretty standard for these parts. If you get to 16 20 percent or more I would maybe do some more homework. And it never hurts to do a tester. You know buy a wet cedar fence board for $1.50 and roll a coat on and see what happens. Maybe nothing, maybe you come back in 40 minutes and its blistered all over. 

All over this is probably way over thinking it but theres some good information in the thread on how to avoid problems.

#1 Get someone else to blame ie paint rep

#2 RTFM READ THE F MANUAL

#3 Experiment and train before game day.

Most guys would fire up the sprayer and blow and go but you're doing research before there is a problem so I'm pretty confident you'll do just fine.

And back roll that sh.




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## bradleyheathha (Jul 20, 2018)

Sparehair I really appreciate the vote of confidence. After talking with lots of qualified people who are familiar with these products I think everything will be just fine.

Met with the paint manufacturer today and they're really touting how well this stuff goes on and does what it's supposed to do. When I asked they said back rolling isn't necessary as this lacquer acts like a stain and just seeps into everywhere it's supposed to go. On the wet factor he said as long as the wood isn't wet on the surface just lay it on. Like your observation, he said since in my case the back side of the board isn't going to be coated that'll be enough for any moisture to escape.

If anyone cares to give advice on laying two coats of an oil based polyurethane on rough cedar (the interior part of this project), please see here...

http://www.contractortalk.com/f8/spraying-oil-based-polyurethane-rough-cedar-411613/#post7369995


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Are you really a painter?

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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

I've learned to not rely on reps for application techniques. If there arises a problem, answers normally equate to "I knew them and they wouldn't say that" or I'm sorry you misunderstood". Professing integrity and the highest levels of service can instantly turn on a dime. Had it happen. 

They simply don't know. It's really not their area.

Application best falls under the head ... "painting contractor".


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

Californiadecks said:


> Isn't your contracting trade painting, as claimed in your bio?
> 
> Shouldn't you be telling us how to paint?
> 
> ...


:laughing:


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Just wait until there is an issue and you didn't follow the TDS...


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## cedarboarder (Mar 30, 2015)

hdavis said:


> Just wait until there is an issue and you didn't follow the TDS...


yeah TDS saved my butt many times. my supplier emails me TDS seconds after ordering. really helps when you don't have to look for it. 

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## artinall (Aug 14, 2007)

hdavis said:


> Just wait until there is an issue and you didn't follow the TDS...


Know what you are saying about TDS but I've dealt with reps putting out loose talk as well. Often you have to separate promotional language and things like "thinning not recommended" (vs. "no reduction needed") whenever impractical.

If in-turn it affects any binders, etc., maybe it will become an issue...


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