# Water Popping Maple ? Would You?



## Hoquester (Jun 14, 2010)

So, here is my situation, I have a job and the customer really wants their natural maple darkening up, now I know traditionally you don't stain maple, but will water popping help even out the stain.

If I don't do it I'll lose the job to someone who will, customer is aware of patchy staining with maple but still wants it dark ... other option is tearing it up so they really want to try the cheaper option first.

What do you think ?


----------



## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

Water popping is a must with staining maple. You also need to be sure to do the perfect sand job. We palm sand the edges with a 60 grit paper prior to buffing. This will help ensure that the edges are blended perfectly.


----------



## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Alcohol sanding sealer will even the splotchy.

Are you ready to breathe vodka?


----------



## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Here's a water popped floor we done a couple years ago. Still blotchy. Prepare samples before you start so the client knows for sure what they're getting.


----------



## Pete'sfeets (Mar 20, 2011)

I'd love to know what water popping is. Water to raise the grain ? Just guessing.


----------



## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Pete'sfeets said:


> I'd love to know what water popping is. Water to raise the grain ? Just guessing.


Final sanding closes the woods pores. water popping/raising the grain, reopens those pores to let the stain in. Water popped floors definately go darker & more even.


----------



## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

Metro M & L said:


> Alcohol sanding sealer will even the splotchy.
> 
> Are you ready to breathe vodka?


<br>
I have always wondered if the sanding sealer would help even out the stain. That is good to know. How long do you let the stain dry before putting down the sealer?


----------



## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

the sealer goes on first Rhode...

it has to be thinned to a 1lb cut...its a shellac..
u apply it with applicators.
let dry..then stain over the top of it..it acts as a conditioner.


----------



## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

jamestrd said:


> the sealer goes on first Rhode...
> 
> it has to be thinned to a 1lb cut...its a shellac..
> u apply it with applicators.
> let dry..then stain over the top of it..it acts as a conditioner.



I was aware of it being a shellac. It is what we use as the first coat on naturally finished floors. How is the stain going to soak in if this is sealing the floor? It just does not make sense to me to first seal the floor and then try to stain it? Maybe it does work, so I am always interested in knowing anything that can make staining easier.


----------



## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

the stain stays on top more and this is how u get more even coverage..


----------



## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

jamestrd said:


> the stain stays on top more and this is how u get more even coverage..


Thanks for the reply. What do you dilute it with and at what ratio? Also, is this the way you always stain maple?


----------



## Pete'sfeets (Mar 20, 2011)

well you thin shellac with methyl hydrate, {denatured alcohol}, I 've seen that suggested for the end grain of newel posts. I gather we are still talking oil stain?. I've yet to break into the water based stains myself.


----------



## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

Thanks for the info.


----------



## jamestrd (Oct 26, 2008)

Rhode,


you wanna thin it to a 1lb cut....this is terminology used nfor shellac.

i was trained by an old timer and thats what he taught me.

in simple terms..you purchase a gallon and cut it with denatured alcohol 2 times..

or 2gallons alcohol to 1 gallon shellac..

the universal sealers have the wax removed..so is altered.
i would use regular shellac...Zinnser makes it also..yellow labeled cans

once thinned( u really dont have to worry about over thinning)

u can brush applicate and even rag it on...

let dry..then stain as usualy..let the stain tack...then wipe excess, but just enough to even it out..not to take away.

allow stain to THOROUGHLY dry. best to wait a day in between before any coatings applied.

I would then use sealer..let dry..then proceed with coats..

this can be used for pine as well.

honestly..i just stain maple naturally without all this..
but this method has been used in wood working for ages..


----------



## RhodesHardwood (Jun 28, 2010)

jamestrd said:


> Rhode,
> 
> 
> you wanna thin it to a 1lb cut....this is terminology used nfor shellac.
> ...



Thanks for the info. I have 2 1500 square foot + stained maple jobs coming up. So this is good to know. But I think for these I will just go with my usual way to play it safe.


----------

