# Drywall Problem



## kcrossley (Dec 17, 2006)

Well the drywall company is convinced that the problem is the rafters, so the game plan is to rip out 2' of drywall on both sides of the seam, inspect the seam, and then repair the whole thing. I'm sure that the drywall company is just looking for a way to charge the builder for the work. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks for your help.

Kelly


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## Celtic (May 23, 2007)

kcrossley said:


> I'm sure that the drywall company is just looking for a way to charge the builder for the work.



If the drywall is not laying flat what could have caused it?

A wire, pipe, etc that was not run over the framing....or the framing wasn't true.

Either way, you have to open to see the problem...thne start pointing fingers.


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## Frankawitz (Jun 17, 2006)

I would say the drywall company just does sh*t work, If there was a framing problem you would see it in other places of the ceiling. I would bet the board wasn't lined up, the edges didn't meet, then the finisher just did what he or she could with what they had to work with. Oh yeah! New home construction and I know why I left it far behind, the more incompetent workers these builders use is the problem. the builder probily has a crew of Mexicans who are getting .35 sqft to hang and finish, so you the customer gets the end product sh*t house, I would start looking real close at everything in that house before your the one holding the bag. I would call in a building inspector and tell the inspector to go over everything with a fine tooth comb. then hold the builder accountable. good luck Kelly hope they get it right, if not I can fix it for you. tell the builder you have someone who knows how to fix it you just need a plane ticket. LOL!


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## kcrossley (Dec 17, 2006)

As it turns out is was a framing problem. The framers used 90 degree ceiling joist hangers instead of 45 degree. When the framers realized what they had done, they simply tried to hammer them down. As we know from the this thread, it didn't work. Still, the drywallers had an obligation to NOT hang the drywall if they saw this problem, so in my book BOTH companies were in the wrong.

I'll try to post some pictures later.


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## mad drywall (Dec 14, 2006)

kcrossley said:


> I just purchased a new home and I'm having a slight problem with the dry-walled ceiling in our 2-story family room. The family room is approximately 19' x 16' with a 4' sloped ceiling, making the finished size 19' x 20'.
> 
> The problem is with the drywall seam that connects the main room to the 4' extension at the ceiling. Instead of being a straight line, the seam is rather crooked and just looks bad. We've already had the builder come in once and try to fix the ceiling, but now part of the ceiling has a defined seam and part of it has no seam.
> 
> ...


sorry but that ceiling shouldnt have been boarded never mind taped. I use a prodct called magic corner and u can keep it straight. What u do is find the center of peek.then measure down snap aline to keep straight glue and staple and coat u get nice straight line. any quiestions email at [email protected]


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

kcrossley,

Probably the best tool to use to fix this is X-Crack by Strait-flex. It would entail opening up the drywall about two feet to either side. Installing the X-Crack to a string or laser line and then installing the board. 

I would use the Butt-Taper with 5/8 OSB to back the seams that are not the angle for an even smoother job, but you could just tape and feather as normal. Tuff tape, NO-Coat, Strait-Flex would all be my tapes of choice to do the angle and the butt seam.

Hire it out and then back charge the builder who can then go after the framer and drywaller.


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## JCardoza (Jun 21, 2007)

I'm with Kgphoto. X-Crack is the best way to deal with off angles followed by good drywall hanging followed by Straight Flex or No Coat. That would be the best way if it wasn't drywalled yet. 

At this point rounding or coving the angle with lots of Durabond 90 and mesh tape would probably be the best way to fix it without removing drywall. 

From my experience you won't get much of a credit from the framers or drywallers because they don't make enough money to have cash on hand to pay for such things. Should but don't. You will only frustrate yourself and them by insisting on making them pay to rip out the drywall and re-frame the ceiling and then re-drywall the entire thing. 

So go with the quick fix of rounding the corner (and maybe put a heavy Hand texture over the whole ceiling) and if that still won't due then rip the drywall out and fix the framing.


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## kcrossley (Dec 17, 2006)

JCardoza said:


> So go with the quick fix of rounding the corner (and maybe put a heavy Hand texture over the whole ceiling) and if that still won't due then rip the drywall out and fix the framing.


They ripped the drywall out. The problem was that the framers used 90 degree joist hangers instead of 45 degree hangers and when they saw that they screwed up, they simply tried to beat the hell out of the 90 degree hangers to make them work. What's worse is that the drywallers decided to hang the drywall anyway. Very sloppy and stupid. If I had to guess, I'd say this mistake cost somebody around $2,000.


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## taper71 (Dec 5, 2006)

Well on a positive note .At least the GC or builder stepped up to the plate and began fixing the problem, instead of trying to cover it up, or running away. I am sure that it took some persuasion from yourself to get them to do that, but it is getting done. Too many times I have seen lawyers involved because of some stupid fine print in the contract, and the home owner gets screwed.


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## Freddieg37 (Jul 15, 2007)

They make this stuff called ultra- flex , you can buy at Lowes, coat both sides of the angle put the ultra-flex in wipe it down, coat it again just on the edges let dry and sand and poof no more curve


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## oldrivers (May 6, 2007)

rockers should have cut around the plates then the tapers should have filled with durabond even if the correct truss hangers were used in the first place.


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

Will we ever find out what happened?


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## kcrossley (Dec 17, 2006)

Sorry guys. Well the ceiling is finally fixed. The owner came out to check out the problem himself. He promptly assigned the job to his best drywaller and I'd say it's about as close to perfect as it could be. In fact, I was so impressed with the owner that I'm hiring his company to drywall our third floor attic, which I'm currently finishing off.

Unfortunately, since a rather large slice of drywall was cutout there are now two additional seams, which run the length of the room. The good news is that they're only visible when the ceiling fan rough-in light is lit. And that problem will be remedied as soon as we replace the light with a fan. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and advice!

Kelly :thumbup:


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## kgphoto (May 9, 2006)

What did they use to fix it? How was the problem solved?


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## RockStar (May 11, 2006)

*Adding to the problem*

Everytime they add more compound they make it worse.

Allow the builder one more chance to fix it properly (In writing) and a copy to your lawyer.
With the explanation that if it's not acceptable you will contract it out yourself and hold him responsible (thats the legal way).

There are a lot of drywall companies out there with talented people that can fix that. Even if it involves removing the area and starting over with a straight surface.

The problem is that most builders hire handymen to fix these problems, NOT PROFESSIONALS!

If I were to bid to fix this I would remove the area back about a foot in each direction, straighten the corner, replace the drywall and finish it right.

Other than taking a belt sander to it, it's the only option to insure it won't crack later.

If precautions were taken during construction, you wouldn't have to look at that.

Good luck:


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## giffrod (Jul 13, 2006)

oldrivers said:


> find the high spot and make that the new line all the way down the ceiling . looks to me about 2 0r 3 inches from the light ,then fill in the low spot with easy sand 90 . recoat with topping put on a straight flex recoat until done it will look perfect.


snap a chalk line from corner to corner and do like old rivers said and fill with 90 shouldn't need to straight flex but it might turn out nicer


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

Am I the only one who gets annoyed when people reply to posts without reading the entire thread? 

Some of you people scare me. You're still telling the OP how to straighten the crack, and yet he has already removed the board.


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## mseneker (Dec 22, 2007)

Might have to tear off the tape. Mud one side in the bad spot with quick set to get the angle at least started in a straight direction. Then I'd come back with 4" wide No-Coat brand tape which is the best you can get. The 4" tape gives you more play in getting the angle straight. Hopefully the finisher will not have to round out the angle with a rubber knife. 

If you just keep adding mud on top or to the side of that tape it will crack!

Is also a chance the framing was out for some reason. (would have had to see the chalk lines) the framer placed at the point he wanted to dive the ceiling joists in at. If he was high on one chalk line that particular ceiling joist would be high also. Some hangers are better than others at handling this problem such as shimming the joist with cardboard to bring it down to the same level as the other joists.

Is there room above that ceiling to get in the attic and see if the joist is up compared to the others? That might help get at the root cause and lead to a better idea of how to fix it.

If you cut out the board then you may also have cracking unless you take out a very large area. It would be a good idea to use screws at the top of that angle as well. Downward pressure (leaning away from the wall) is a good place for nail pops. It the joist was up the hanger should have known it because his nails or screws would have popped when hanging.

I'd want to take a piece of 4" No-coat and hold it against the current tape before I made any moves. Just to see if it will cover should you take out the exiting tape. The angle may never be 100% straight but at least the 4" tape would do a better job of spreading the arc in the angle out and not showing it so bad in just one spot.

From the point of view I have in the picture, and without knowing how long that angle is, it looks like the taper may have also not got his tape on straight. It that is the case, then the 4" No-Coat will work.


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

Hey mseneker, 


kcrossley said:


> Sorry guys. Well the ceiling is finally fixed. The owner came out to check out the problem himself. He promptly assigned the job to his best drywaller and I'd say it's about as close to perfect as it could be. In fact, I was so impressed with the owner that I'm hiring his company to drywall our third floor attic, which I'm currently finishing off.
> 
> Unfortunately, since a rather large slice of drywall was cutout there are now two additional seams, which run the length of the room. The good news is that they're only visible when the ceiling fan rough-in light is lit. And that problem will be remedied as soon as we replace the light with a fan. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and advice!
> 
> Kelly :thumbup:


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