# Stairwell half wall



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Looking for suggestions on the best way to build a stiff half wall around this stairwell.

Orange lines indicate ceiling line change from vaulted to flat. Blue lines are strictly halfwall


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Notch and let in a dbl2x4or 4x4 like newel posts. Build the wall between.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

If you are unable to tie it into the floor, I would suggest some angle iron and lag bolts.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I could tie into the floor framing around the rim fairly easily with GRK's. My concern there is that I don't really want to cut holes in the ceiling. Would I need to block around the posts being the holes will be right at the perimeter or will such small holes not matter?


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Just cut the plywood back enough to allow the blocks to be installed.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

The more I think about it a 2"x3" hole should be fine right? I mean my my duct vents are 6x10


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

There are a few ways to do this. The first question, is do you want to be able to take it down to bring furniture / bulky items up easier?

If you want to take it down and put it up fairly easily, use something like this:

http://www.ljsmith.com/products.aspx?category=&type=9&product=11

Tons of other ways to go. I always liked framing it with blocking and dropping it in.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I overlooked it in planning


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

And no, this will be permenant....not removeable


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

I must be missing something - cutting holes in ceiling?? Your blocking doesn't have to run down to the ceiling.

I'm not sure why a 2X3 hole in the floor would be a concern, unless you'd be cutting the stairway framing. 

In renos, I tend to use the surface mount style - the added work dealing with finished surfaces makes it preferred.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

A&E Exteriors said:


> And no, this will be permenant....not removeable


You just have subfloor down, just open it up enough to put in the blocking you need, and put the same piece of subfloor (minus the post cutout) right back in.

If that won't work with your stair framing, use a surface mount style. Angle iron and base wrap to cover is pretty common.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

hdavis said:


> You just have subfloor down, just open it up enough to put in the blocking you need, and put the same piece of subfloor (minus the post cutout) right back in.
> 
> If that won't work with your stair framing, use a surface mount style. Angle iron and base wrap to cover is pretty common.


I think I am gonna roll with the 2ish x 3" hole and call it a day. I think I was thinking decking mentality for something that has a sheetgood floor


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

A&E Exteriors said:


> I think I am gonna roll with the 2ish x 3" hole and call it a day. I think I was thinking decking mentality for something that has a sheetgood floor


You only need one or two on each length of wall, not every stud.


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

I know that much! LoL


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

jlhaslip said:


> You only need one or two on each length of wall, not every stud.


Building a half wall, he just needs the posts solid, and pop the bottom plate down to the floor. Maybe past 8' or so he'd need another post just for the stiffness, but a 1X6 cap or double top plate can stiffen it as well.


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

Just throwing this out there... Could you sheath the interior of the wall with quarter inch ply down through the RO and then rock it with quarter inch drywall? 
Wouldn't that stiffen if up plenty? 
The last knee wall I framed up was with a double 2x post beside a rim joist through the floor, but it still had a bit of wobble to it. Nothing dangerous, but enough to bug me. 

Sent from my Gravity 5 LTE using Tapatalk


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## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Pretty damn stiff


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

> that's what she said.
> - anon


lol


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## Timuhler (Mar 7, 2006)

A&E Exteriors said:


> Looking for suggestions on the best way to build a stiff half wall around this stairwell.
> 
> Orange lines indicate ceiling line change from vaulted to flat. Blue lines are strictly halfwall




I've thought about trying these if all else fails. We've used them on decks and they work well. Maybe just cut the subfloor back to hide the base?


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## arrowguy (Jan 9, 2018)

don't forget to post any updates or follow ups is/when you got em!


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