# Texture in Hard to Reach Areas?



## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

I've got my mudder in to look at my job and he's throwing a fit about this one spot.

Its in the kitchen. The idea of leaving the ceiling go through over the stairwell was to make the room feel more open.

How do you guys get texture back in a situation like this?


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## westco (Nov 21, 2007)

1. get a new taper that doesn't whine

2. if it's hand texture, get the smallest guy to lie on top or long arms or spray heavy, finish it with a wide knife taped to a sand pole

3.if it's spray texture and there isn't enough room to get the hopper in there use texture in a can or a hvlp gun connected to a paint pot.

If I think of anything else I'll post it.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

westco said:


> 1. get a new taper that doesn't whine
> 
> 2. if it's hand texture, get the smallest guy to lie on top or long arms or spray heavy, finish it with a wide knife taped to a sand pole
> 
> ...


Thanks

Here's a pic


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## westco (Nov 21, 2007)

That's not that bad, just a little extra effort. Just remember it'll be a catch can for dust.


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## sunkist (Apr 27, 2012)

screw the drywall guy. what did the painter have to say?


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

The guy that taught me to tape and texture would never texture the backs of small closets. I never got that. Especially from him because I have not seen a taper to his equal including myself....


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

westco said:


> That's not that bad, just a little extra effort. Just remember it'll be a catch can for dust.


How would you tackle it?


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## westco (Nov 21, 2007)

I was the first to reply, one post down from yours


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Take the lid in the stairwell down and finish through it. 

I think I'd prolly lose the cans above it, and maybe just close it up. Kinda looks like a serious afterthought (spelled oops) as it is now.


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## wireless (Nov 2, 2006)

Spencer said:


> I've got my mudder in to look at my job and he's throwing a fit about this one spot.
> 
> Its in the kitchen. The idea of leaving the ceiling go through over the stairwell was to make the room feel more open.
> 
> How do you guys get texture back in a situation like this?


I don't think you are getting the more open feeling from that! more like cluttered!


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I think they need a few more lights in that room...............


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Spencer said:


> I've got my mudder in to look at my job and he's throwing a fit about this one spot.
> 
> Its in the kitchen. The idea of leaving the ceiling go through over the stairwell was to make the room feel more open.
> 
> How do you guys get texture back in a situation like this?


I'm assuming it's a knockdown or orange peel texture that's going on the ceiling?

1) In a pinch you can cut down the plastic hopper to size. :thumbsup:

2) Tell him to get a real texture machine and the gun would fit in there no problem. :whistling

3) Fly me over there and I could do a real nice skip trowel texture by hand for you. :thumbup:


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

TimelessQuality said:


> Take the lid in the stairwell down and finish through it.
> 
> I think I'd prolly lose the cans above it, and maybe just close it up. Kinda looks like a serious afterthought (spelled oops) as it is now.


Yeah, I don't know what to think about it. It is enclosing a stairs that is a straight shot to the basement from the garage.

Anytime you can make a ceiling continue through it does make a space feel more open often with sacrifice of looking a little oops. 

I think it will look fine when complete. There will be cabinets around it and a decorative crown detail around the edge. It will probably end up getting who knows what set on it and you won't be able to see clear the the back anyway. O well, one mans brilliant idea is another mans oops.

I think we'll just try and shoot back as far as we can with the hopper gun and then use some canned texture for the rest.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

How much clearance should those can lights get? Any concerns about them baking ceiling dust?


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

MarkJames said:


> How much clearance should those can lights get? Any concerns about them baking ceiling dust?


I'm not concerned at 18" especially with cfl's. Crap on top of the shelf would be more of a concern.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Spencer said:


> I'm not concerned at 18" especially with cfl's. Crap on top of the shelf would be more of a concern.


I was going to say send a small guy in there, but it sure doesn't look like 18" from here - those stud bays at the top back are wider than they are tall, and those look like 16 OC studs. If it's 12-14", your best bet is TimelessQuality's idea - take the lid off below and work from underneath.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

CarpenterSFO said:


> I was going to say send a small guy in there, but it sure doesn't look like 18" from here - those stud bays at the top back are wider than they are tall, and those look like 16 OC studs. If it's 12-14", your best bet is TimelessQuality's idea - take the lid off below and work from underneath.


Talked to the mudder this afternoon. I'm gonna compromise and box it in part way. I'll cut the depth in half and keep the shelf. I'll post pics with the progress as it gets finished.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Spencer said:


> Talked to the mudder this afternoon. I'm gonna compromise and box it in part way. I'll cut the depth in half and keep the shelf. I'll post pics with the progress as it gets finished.


Good idea.:thumbsup:


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## nicktools561 (May 29, 2013)

The problem here I am assuming is that your guy does not have enough room to use his arm properly. I cannot see what employee says no to their boss's request, but the best way that I personally would tackle this spot would be to lay down on top of that corner with your legs off the edge or on to an equally heightened scaffold. If you are spreading the texture as if you are trying to reach far above your head then your arm will far more range of motion in tight areas. I hope this simple tip helps in some way, good luck on your work project!


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Spencer said:


> Talked to the mudder this afternoon. I'm gonna compromise and box it in part way. I'll cut the depth in half and keep the shelf. I'll post pics with the progress as it gets finished.


That will look a lot better. IMO


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

TimelessQuality said:


> Take the lid in the stairwell down and finish through it.
> 
> I think I'd prolly lose the cans above it, and maybe just close it up. Kinda looks like a serious afterthought (spelled oops) as it is now.


Just curious, how do you handle "removing" new construction cans? Can you get to the wiring from inside the can? How about filling it in with drywall?

I am considering losing these cans if it wouldn't be a ridiculous amount of work. They are buried in cellulose insulation on the top side and aren't accessible.


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## bob hutson (Mar 16, 2013)

it depends on the can some have brackets, some have clips, clips you can get to from bottem...


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Spencer said:


> Just curious, how do you handle "removing" new construction cans? Can you get to the wiring from inside the can? How about filling it in with drywall?
> 
> I am considering losing these cans if it wouldn't be a ridiculous amount of work. They are buried in cellulose insulation on the top side and aren't accessible.


Unscrew the bulb?................whistling 

Seriously. Just call the electrician that did the job and ask him to come and help you out. Easy fix.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

bob hutson said:


> it depends on the can some have brackets, some have clips, clips you can get to from bottem...


These are new construction. 

I looked at one at the store this morning. There are three screws that you take out to remove the whole round piece of housing. You can then access the box. I plan to just use the can box as the junction box and remove the wiring that connects to the light. Thinking about it, it really isn't even necessary to unhook the light, but is probably good practice.

After that I'm not sure how to go about closing the hole...I'll probably stuff some fiberglass insulation up there and use a repair patch. Since the mounting piece of the can will still be there I can't screw in a wood backer.

The metal repair patch may be pushing it on a hole that size. It would definitely be fine if I put the new wall directly underneath where the old can was located.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

I think I would do like you're planning and leave the housing buried. Maybe cut a scrap to fit tight and shove it in with some pl.

The other would be cut out a 16" square and pull the whole thing then patch as normal.. 

Doing your own place is kinda like a rite of passage...Take your time, figure out all the details, and do it the way you want.:thumbsup:


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

TimelessQuality said:


> I think I would do like you're planning and leave the housing buried. Maybe cut a scrap to fit tight and shove it in with some pl.
> 
> The other would be cut out a 16" square and pull the whole thing then patch as normal..
> 
> Doing your own place is kinda like a rite of passage...Take your time, figure out all the details, and do it the way you want.:thumbsup:


Thanks Timeless,

You are right about the whole right of passage thing. I have done a lot but there is nothing like having everything fall on your shoulders to teach efficiency. It has also been great to learn other phases that I normally wouldn't dabble in if I was working for a client. I actually did all the electric on this house and that was an awesome learning experience.

I appreciate the patience and willing attitude you guys have. Could I have just tackled this with the best ideas my mind could come up with? Yes, but it is far more beneficial to bounce things like this off of you guys and not just come up with "a" solution but the "best" solution.


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## IanB (Apr 6, 2013)

Don't put much in the hopper at one time and just keep it on a angle there should be enough room by the looks of things to get in there , that would be my first attempt to do it. they do make texture machines with just a gun on the end and the hopper is built in to the machine sitting on the floor maybe rent one of those for the day??


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