# How do I repair HO's mistake?



## outsidethelines (Oct 19, 2007)

I don't have a lot of experience when it comes to drywall; mostly just repairs. But, I have a job coming up where the HO did his own drywall hanging in a bathroom and he left a couple big gaps. One is about an inch wide and about three feet long between the top of the wall and the ceiling (short wall piece). The other is the corner where the two walls meet. That one is from top to bottom, almost an inch as well. I am fairly certain he has no intention of doing this over, so I wanted to know the best way to repair. We are supposed to do the taping and mudding for him and then of course prime and paint.


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## PSG (Oct 16, 2010)

I would tell him that I has to be fixed, you cannot tape a joint like that.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Fill it with hard... tape as usual.


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## tazmanian (Jul 22, 2010)

tell ho that if he doesnt want you to fix it then it will not come out to his liking - get him to sign off on it and just do the best you can. if he wants to fix it cut him a break and move forward. if it is not really a big deal fix it and tell him that you did it and if he could find his way to being fair - charge him x.....a lot of ways to get around this one. be kind, and it will come back in spades to you.


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## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

I would just use a heavy mix of durabond and pull it tight for the first coat. See how it dries, if you need to apply it again or find a better method so be it. In my experience it has been fine to go ahead and lay tape on the next coat, That's how I have done it. Might not be the most ideal practice but hey, it worked..so far.:whistling


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Drywall is five bucks a sheet. I would rather rehang that rather than try to patch that. If his skills are that lacking, he probably skimped on other aspects as well. I know times are tough and work is scarce, but cmon.


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## tazmanian (Jul 22, 2010)

not worried about it cracking out - if someone bangs into it that way? i am sure it has worked for you int he past......do it right and be done with it. it is not always about the money!


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## outsidethelines (Oct 19, 2007)

Yea, I was thinking about just stuffing a bunch of mud in there, bringing it level and then as you say, taping as usual, but I guess I just was not sure how much is too much. In other words, how thick can you go with mud before it just does not make sense? I am assuming it would take a couple coats at least to bring it level. The one at the top of the wall; I was thinking I would need to cut the space wider and then add a new strip of sheetrock since there are only studs behind it.


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## dibs16 (Nov 30, 2010)

I like that idea. Good sell on some more work and you know the product is going to last. I am interested in the "How much is too much" question though, can't wait to see some responses


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## Bob Kovacs (May 4, 2005)

Crown moulding to cover the ceiling gap, and a thin rip of drywall tacked into the wall joint, covered my hot-mudded flat tape, followed by conventional corner work. All with a written disclaimer to the homeowner that it still might crack or look like general dog****.


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Bob Kovacs said:


> Crown moulding to cover the ceiling gap, and a thin rip of drywall tacked into the wall joint, covered my hot-mudded flat tape, followed by conventional corner work. All with a written disclaimer to the homeowner that it still might crack or look like general dog****.


Yep! What Bob said.








And if the HO doesn't want crown.
Rip a one inch piece of drywall, tack, hot mud and tape just like the wall angle.:thumbup:

-Paul


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

Warren said:


> Drywall is five bucks a sheet. I would rather rehang that rather than try to patch that. If his skills are that lacking, he probably skimped on other aspects as well. I know times are tough and work is scarce, but cmon.



Just rip out his mistakes and move on.


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## BC Carpenter (Dec 28, 2010)

personally I wouldn't attempt to fill that big of a gap that long with mud, kinda continuing the HO's behavior.

I'd give it a try with a 1" rip, if that isn't going to do the job properly then cut a section out and reboard with a bigger piece


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

You could have bought the materials, installed, taped and mudded them by now. *Get the money up front then do it right.* Contracting is simple if you follow that rule, in that order.


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## FreedomBuilders (Apr 18, 2010)

CAULK IT !! ..jk Answers were given already, no need to say it again. Taping and mudding is one thing, Fixing an HO's goof is another with another charge.


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## Snobnd (Jul 1, 2008)

That sucks... mix a batch of Durabond 15 min and fill as best as possible.
Fill the ceiling gap - flat tape the crack - then run you corner when dry ....Good luck

And don't forget the No Guarantee clause!


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## Chris G (May 17, 2006)

Back fill with Durabond and tape. Should be fine.

It's all good and fine to go all "Mike Holmes" on the place and tear it out and do it over, but it's not your money to play with. If the homeowner doesn't want to pay for it to be done that way, what's a man to do, especially when the solution isn't much different to the process of plaster walls of old?


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## tedanderson (May 19, 2010)

I agree on ripping the 1" piece also. It's been my experience that anything longer or wider than 2 inches needs to be fortified with another piece of drywall.


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## mrkjb (Apr 9, 2011)

backblock the crack and prefill it. tape then. easy mate.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 7, 2010)

Spray some spray foam insulation from a can in it, use a low expansion type, then cut it back to where you want it, it also acts as a glue too, so it will hold the rock in place. you can glue drywall together with the stuff, so it will work:thumbsup:


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## outsidethelines (Oct 19, 2007)

BC Carpenter said:


> ....I'd give it a try with a 1" rip, if that isn't going to do the job properly then cut a section out and reboard with a bigger piece


 
so, we went ahead with the one inch strips. It was fine. The room went from horror to :clap:. Oh and BTW Kovacs, no work I have ever done has ever looked like dog****. Actually, it looks f****** awesome. :cheesygri


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## Rob PA (Aug 30, 2010)

I just got done with a apartment like this. All the seams were junk. Pulled the tape and huge gaps. Some we were able to back fill and others we had to patch and float new drywall. I would tell them its a change order and give them an ESTIMATE. You will find others in there. I know i did. 

Money up front for the change order or have him fix it.


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## BC Carpenter (Dec 28, 2010)

outsidethelines said:


> so, we went ahead with the one inch strips. It was fine. The room went from horror to :clap:. Oh and BTW Kovacs, no work I have ever done has ever looked like dog****. Actually, it looks f****** awesome. :cheesygri


 

glad it worked out...:thumbsup:


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## Rockhound (Jul 12, 2007)

tedanderson said:


> I agree on ripping the 1" piece also. It's been my experience that anything longer or wider than 2 inches needs to be fortified with another piece of drywall.


 Rip a sliver and if you can't get screws in it : MIRACLE DSA/20 ....the name says it all.....


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## HawaiiBuilder (Jan 15, 2009)

Very simple patch.

If gap is backed by stud. Fill gap with 20 min. hot mud, tape over and skim tight, but not hard enough where you'll squeeze too much mud, then you'll have your tape popping.

Sand the whole wall, skim coat plus 3 compound or other lightweight mud to feather out the joint. Sand entire wall once lightweight compound has dried, skim again if level 5 finish or touch up and texture.:thumbsup:


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## AARC Drywall (May 11, 2008)

You guys are going to laugh, but we had a similar problem, but i grabbed the first thing that i thought would work, and it was low expansion spray foam...put it in the crack, and let it expand over night, and trimmed it back, taped as normal, and it worked like a hot damn....by no means do we make a habbit of it, it was more to prove a point...

Jay


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

I use spray foam all the time on remodels. First thing I do is go through the entire job prefilling holes/gaps with it. Later that day or next day cut off excess with hacksaw blade, It flexes and stays tight to wall.

Tape or not to tape? That is the next question.


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## Tim0282 (Dec 11, 2007)

Don't tape it, use Vario!


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## CstmHmsMdeEasy (Aug 7, 2011)

*10%*

Call a dry wall contractor. get a bid from him and add 10-20% plus your time.


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