# 2 1/2" Fiber Cement Siding



## OGStilts (Aug 30, 2007)

I've got a project where the architect has spec'd fiber cement siding to match what was once original to the home. When we removed the vinyl siding to uncover the original we found siding with a 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" reveal. So now I've got to find a fiber cement siding that is similiar in style. The best we've been able to do so far is a 4" reveal. Anyone here know of a brand that does the shorter reveal?


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

I've seen what you have, but these 
are the only replacements I have bought.
If there aren't too many, maybe you could
just cut down the 4"?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Ripping that stuff would suck.

Have to be cement board or can it be wood?

Here is a good one for wood:

http://www.wardclapboard.com/

I ran a 5" lap with a 3 1/2" exposure.

Why cant it go down to 2 3/4"?


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## Aframe (Mar 24, 2008)

if you end up ripping stock sizes, maybe go with Hardie 8"
http://www.jameshardie.com/builder/products_siding_hardieplankLapSiding.py

2 pieces with one cut, no waste. Or call a rep to see if custom sizes are available, if volume warrants it.
You will have a larger than normal gap behind where you nail it. Don't know if it would be an issue. 

If "you" modify an engineered product I would bet it will have warranty implications, so keep that in mind and let everybody else know.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Ooops. 
Forgot the click and paste part. :whistling
http://www.gaf-weatherside.com/?gclid=CMnSk_nWo5wCFYSL5wodARI0jQ
These were the closest matches
for what I've done. :thumbsup:


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Aframe said:


> if you end up ripping stock sizes, maybe go with Hardie 8"
> http://www.jameshardie.com/builder/products_siding_hardieplankLapSiding.py
> 
> 2 pieces with one cut, no waste. Or call a rep to see if custom sizes are available, if volume warrants it.
> ...


I imagined that he was talking about
the old transite shingle siding.
No where near as thick as Hardy planks.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

neolitic said:


> Ooops.
> Forgot the click and paste part. :whistling
> http://www.gaf-weatherside.com/?gclid=CMnSk_nWo5wCFYSL5wodARI0jQ
> These were the closest matches
> for what I've done. :thumbsup:


 
Is that faux asbestos siding?:laughing:


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Is that faux asbestos siding?:laughing:


Yeah, I think that's what 
he's talking about....transite.
That was the original
fiber cement.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

neolitic said:


> Yeah, I think that's what
> he's talking about....transite.
> That was the original
> fiber cement.


He was being kind of vauge.

Seems to me though, that if you pulled the vynil off of some of that, you wouldnt be able to save any of it.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> He was being kind of vauge.
> 
> Seems to me though, that if you pulled the vynil off of some of that, you wouldnt be able to save any of it.


Nor any other fiber cement
that I've seen.....
Maybe he'll give us some more hints
later on? :clap:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

neolitic said:


> Nor any other fiber cement
> that I've seen.....
> Maybe he'll give us some more hints
> later on? :clap:


I hope, the suspense is killing me!!


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## OGStilts (Aug 30, 2007)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Is that faux asbestos siding?:laughing:


:w00t: That's some funny stuff there. 

Sorry to keep you all in suspense, It is similar to what Warner had in his first link but has a rounded over edge instead of the square edge shown there. 

Problem is this architect is very specific about everything he does and he spelled out fiber cement siding so I have to either find it in fiber cement, get him to approve a substitute as cedar or a larger reveal, or find out if I can rip down some fiber cement siding. 

I have a message into the architect seeing if he will accept a substitute. I have my lumber salesman checking with hardi to see if we can rip down the siding to get the reveal we need without voiding the warranty. Something will have to give here. 

I think I have checked everywhere, just tried checking here with you guys as a final attempt. It's fairly common siding on these older homes so I'm surprised someone hasn't duplicated it before. I checked on period homes to see if they had any resources but nothing helpful there. Thanks for your help.


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## #1 Handyman (Aug 2, 2009)

Once you get the starter strip set after that all siding will lay down evenly and flat as long as the overlap remains consistent.

You may not have to trim the hardy board.


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## 21gun (Aug 4, 2009)

Presuming #1 is somewhat to scale.... the corner and window boards would be 3/4 inch... which is about what the thickness of that diagram would equal.... so could make harry situation on corner boards and the like... but other than that i see it working... but what a waste of material. I dont know the req. lap on hardy...not installed too much too know for sure... but seems like 3/4 rings a bell... i've heard about having to use felt paper under the joints too.... true? that would make it even thicker... right?

What about a thicker corner board or using a 1/4 inch shim board to build it out on corners... etc... Sorry, i'm no help really.


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## #1 Handyman (Aug 2, 2009)

Actually it is sort of drawn to scale.

the lengths are 1/2 scale and the siding board thickness is full scale.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

why would ripping down hardie void the warranty?
as long as the factory edge is exposed on the bottom
why wouldn't hardie honor it?


if they dont i have alot of last course rips and window cuts not covered:sad:


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## bert0168 (Jan 28, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> why would ripping down hardie void the warranty?
> as long as the factory edge is exposed on the bottom
> why wouldn't hardie honor it?
> 
> ...


Warranty is void, at least that's what I was told by my supplier.

I had a similar situation where I had to match an exposure of 3 1/2" like Warner.

We did exactly what #1 suggested, no problems on the corners or windows.

I love how these archys spec stuff before seeing if it exists :furious:


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## bert0168 (Jan 28, 2008)

To expand on what #1 is suggesting, we used a piece of beveled cedar as our under course starter.

This allowed less of a kick out on the board.

I think doing this only kicked out the first couple of courses. Near the ground you never see it.


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## strathd (Jan 12, 2009)

I put a 17'x6' addition on an old painted cedar sided house last winter. It was to make the kitchen bigger for a total kitchen remodel. The lap (reveal) was 3". After checking into special ordering that size of cedar it was more expensive than buying 8" cedar that most stores stock.

So I chose to rip hardi down to size. Don't know how much you have to rip but it was'nt that bad. Went through three blades.


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## OGStilts (Aug 30, 2007)

OK, I thought I'd stop back here one last time and let everyone know that my Hardie rep confirmed what many of you had said about ripping it down. He said as long as we seal the ripped edge that it will not void the warranty. So now I just need to confirm with architect that is the route he is going to want to go. It's not going to be the exact profile that was original but with the reveal the same I think it will look close enough and it will be much cheaper than cedar. Thanks for your help.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

As long ass the reveal is the same, you wont be able to tell much difference at all.
Just watch the bottoms and tops of windows, thats where the orginal courses might stray from the average reveal.

On additions, I just break it with trim at an old outside corner and go from there.
It has always looked good for me.

Good luck.


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