# Router question?



## electricalguru (Mar 14, 2007)

I am working on a bar island at a commercial strip center. I have layed out the locations to my outlets inside the bar most of them are inside the cabinets. It is too small to fit my sawzall in and i am considering buying a router to finish cutting in my boxes. the wood is very dense (compact) and 3/4 of an inch thick with a 16th of an inch laminate on one side ( the cutting side ).

Is this the right tool for the job? I have 'nt done alot of carpentry and any advise would be greatly appreciated!

Michael


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## jmic (Dec 10, 2005)

Elect.,
How about Roto-Zip? I think it would do what you are looking to accomplish.


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## electricalguru (Mar 14, 2007)

One of my friends suggested that as well. I have never used one is it a drill or a saw? And about how much do they run?


Thank you for replying..............


Michael


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## Greg Di (Mar 12, 2005)

electricalguru said:


> One of my friends suggested that as well. I have never used one is it a drill or a saw? And about how much do they run?


Rotozips spin like a router, but use bits that cut like saws more or less. Personally, I'm not a big fan of Rotozips because they can screw up nice work really quick if the bit slips or takes off on you. Some guys love them and can get good results--not me. Practice on scrap material first.

They are about $100.


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## reveivl (May 29, 2005)

The roto-zip is the right tool. It's a small router that uses a wide variety of bits. Including side cutting bits. Greg has good advice when he says to practice first.


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## Scott Young (Dec 23, 2005)

i hate a rotozip. it will eat bits, it is inaccurate, and will frustrate you because it is overly hyped. sorry to those that love it. if i were going to get a rotary saw tool, i would buy the bosch colt variable speed laminate router. it will do what the rotozip will do but with greater ease, accuracy and has more flexability.

i use the rotozip like a die grinder, so it does have it's uses. but...a router/saw it isn't even in the ball park.


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## dayspring (Mar 4, 2006)

If you have room I would make a template from plywood, use 2 faced tape to place it and then rout it. That would eliminate a slip that could ruin your work. Again practice on some scrap.


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## Scott Young (Dec 23, 2005)

day spring that would be a great idea. infact you could use an inner template and use two screws into the cut out if you don't have enough room for an outside template.


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## stevie.c (Dec 11, 2005)

what about the Fein Multimaster ? i had to cut square holes in centuries old oak pannelling(for light swithes)and the Fein did it like a hot knife through butter.great versatile tool.


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

I have a dewalt router, craftsman corded rotozip and the dewalt 18V cordless rotozip. Use the cordless rotozip most often.......it does take practice with different materials and depths, they're not all the same. Unless I'm doing countertops the router stays in the shop in a table


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## karma_carpentry (Aug 7, 2005)

I second Scott's comment on the Bosch Colt. I just picked one up and I'm a huge fan already. It's a solid little tool. 1HP in a trim router. Solid collet, solid bearings. I got the set with the offset and angle base too.

If you're going THROUGH the wood, and can accept a little waviness - drill corner holes and use a jigsaw. If it's a mortise (NOT THROUGH) then use a router. Eat a little at a time - never try more than 1/4" depth at a time. Go slow. Let the carbide eat the wood. Don't burn the bit.


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

What sort of bit would a guy use in a trim router, if he wanted to use it for box cutouts in material a bit too heavy for a RotoZip?


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## karma_carpentry (Aug 7, 2005)

A straight bit - either a spiral upcut or a straight 2-fluted bottoming bit. Maybe 3/8. Then you have to chisel the corners if you want them square.


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## mickeyco (May 13, 2006)

I'm guessing he's got this done by now put I'll post this cause I got one and it works pretty good, it's an attachment for a Dremel tool and it also works on the flexible shaft so it can get into some tight spaces. I also have a plunge router attachment for the Dremel and that would probably work as well.


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## keepitstraight (Nov 12, 2006)

*rotozip*

i also seem to have an allergy to cutting with the rotozip. the feed has to be real slow or the bit breaks. far and away the best would be the fein. simple plunge, clean cut - way easy for the electric box or you could be anal and go a trim quality job with great tolerances. 

my friend has a pc sawzall with the adjustable/rotating head, and someone deserves a nobel prize for carpentry there. places you couldn't get to are accessible now. way safer when you are having to cut a ridge beam 3 floors off the ground up tight against siding. you just give it a little bend, a little twist, and let your weight do all the work as you keep your center of gravity over your feet.

may have enough room here if you use a short blade.


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