# strengthening 'Wing Wall'?



## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

I'm curious how you guys strengthen a wing wall/knee wall for a custom shower?....We're having a steel guy weld up a 14 1/2"x 16" or so angle bracket fastened to the 4" curb inside the last stud bay....(I don't have a pic). We're also gonna come from underneath and lag through the curb to make it sturdier.

Drywall on the vanity side, solid surface cap, and I'm assuming a glass panel and door. Details and materials change daily with this particular customer, but this scenario is pretty basic.


----------



## eXpatRioteX (Jan 26, 2007)

That end stud needs to extend through the bottom plate/curb, through the subfloor, and get nailed to a 2x thats nailed between two joists. If they are 2x10 joists, use a 2x10 block. Make sure the cut through the subfloor is a tight fit. Rock solid.


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

*I'm curious how you guys strengthen a wing wall/knee wall for a custom shower?....We're having a steel guy weld up a 14 1/2"x 16" or so angle bracket fastened to the 4" curb inside the last stud bay....(I don't have a pic). We're also gonna come from underneath and lag through the curb to make it sturdier.*

You can drop the end double bellow the floor since you have the access, and the secure between the joist, and after you enclose both sides it will be nice and stiff :thumbsup:


----------



## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

greg24k said:


> *I'm curious how you guys strengthen a wing wall/knee wall for a custom shower?....We're having a steel guy weld up a 14 1/2"x 16" or so angle bracket fastened to the 4" curb inside the last stud bay....(I don't have a pic). We're also gonna come from underneath and lag through the curb to make it sturdier.*
> 
> You can drop the end double bellow the floor since you have the access, and the secure between the joist, and after you enclose both sides it will be nice and stiff :thumbsup:


Yes, that would make the most sense...there's a couple problems though.

1. the wall was an after thought, but not like we couldn't just cut the curb, or pull it then drop the end through the floor.

2. The radiant heat has already been installed and looped in the joist bay

...The more I think about it, sinking the end double into the floor system is probably the best fix, but it'll be a PITA.

Thanks


----------



## Dpscott (Jan 20, 2010)

I always look to go through the floor like already stated. If that is not an option in your case than is wall thickness an issue? I would skin the whole wall in plywood the thicker the better or even on both sides of the wall, getting good nailing into the plates and the stud on the wall. That usually works good when there is a concrete floor. If wall thickness is an issue rip the studs down to accomadate


----------



## FowlOne (May 2, 2009)

Sounds like a PITA, but like everybody else, tied into the floor joist is best option. On a slab I normally core drill and drive 3 inch tube steel below the slab and pour it back in, doesnt get much stronger than that. Good luck.


----------



## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

I have done it with straps and it was very strong and quite easy.

Cut a slit in the floor each side of the double for a strap to drop through. Tack it on the edge of double, both sides, and hang the strap down through the floor to bottom of joist.

Go down and block out as needed to nail the straps securely. Then go back up to the light and take out the tacks, hold it plumb and nail it off.

Shear panel at least one side if possible and it's stiffer than a honeymoon....


----------



## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

Gus Dering said:


> I have done it with straps and it was very strong and quite easy.
> 
> Cut a slit in the floor each side of the double for a strap to drop through. Tack it on the edge of double, both sides, and hang the strap down through the floor to bottom of joist.
> 
> ...


How stiff is that?


----------



## clinkard (Feb 23, 2009)

Plywood one side( maybey two if it is not too much work. Slather with PL where possible. screw everything no nails.
Should stiffen. 
Its tough without going through the subfloor.


----------



## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

knucklehead said:


> How stiff is that?


How far back do I need to go to explain this one? :laughing:


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

Is there a vanity going against it?? If so secure the vanity well, then screw the wall to the vanity....If you have no other option


----------



## D.Foster (Sep 13, 2008)

Is that osb on the inside covered w plastic??


----------



## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

I wonder


----------



## genecarp (Mar 16, 2008)

Plywood , screws and PL, plumb up screw off, rock over the plywood, good to go , GMOD


----------



## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Diagonal crippling helps or even diagonal strapping. Just like plywood the intersecting wall 2x and the floor plate need really good connections resist any pull.


----------



## robert c1 (Mar 11, 2007)

If you don't want to go through the floor, I'll second the plywood suggestions. Glue and nail the **** out of everything and it's going nowhere. Either that or design in a short return wall.


----------



## Frank P (Nov 2, 2009)

Cant have a big shower without a corner seat or a bench. Up sell it and fix your problem at the same time.


----------



## mshoward (Jan 7, 2010)

+1 on the straps. I used to use 16 gauge strapping through the sub-floor on all my 1/2 walls at stairwells. A 2-3' section to joists or blocking will tighten it right up. This should easily fit in with your radiant heat as well.


----------



## bert0168 (Jan 28, 2008)

Probably too late but here is what I've done where a wing wall falls over a double joist (like along a set of stairs). It's super strong and should work even in between jiosts with some flat 2x blocking.

Drill a hole thru the center of the double top plate down thru the sole plate and thru the floor underneath. Countersink a hole in the double top plate to keep a nut and washer flush so you can cap the wall.

We inserted a 3/4" length of all thread completely thru and them bolted it up from the bottom.

Nice thing about this is if there is access underneath, you can go back and tighten it up when the lumber shrinks to keep everything stiff. laughing


----------



## WNYcarpenter (Mar 2, 2007)

bert0168 said:


> Probably too late but here is what I've done where a wing wall falls over a double joist (like along a set of stairs). It's super strong and should work even in between jiosts with some flat 2x blocking.
> 
> Drill a hole thru the center of the double top plate down thru the sole plate and thru the floor underneath. Countersink a hole in the double top plate to keep a nut and washer flush so you can cap the wall.
> 
> ...


I had mentioned it to the foreman...I read something similar to what you're saying in some trade magazine for attaching newel posts.

I also like the strapping idea.


----------

