# tricks on installing crown moulding solo



## A.W.Davis

Anybody have any tricks on installing long runs of crown by yourself....is there a jig that can be purchased that will hold the other end of the crown up? I have searched with no luck.

I have 9 months of work scheduled and will be self employed very soon and wont have the advantage of having a helper to hold the other end up like I do now so I am just trying to get some ideas.


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## Robie

Yup...
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/FSC-3026/25-Crown-Molding-Clips


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## A.W.Davis

Robie said:


> Yup...
> http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/FSC-3026/25-Crown-Molding-Clips


Thanks Robie......had any experience with this item.......I think I am going to order some!


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## Gordo

Or you can tack long finish nails into the wall studs.......a little higher than the bottom edge of the crown.


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## Bob Kovacs

Why would you possibly want to install those clips every 36"??? You should only need one clip to hold the opposite end of the piece in place while you work your way toward it. Maybe the clips are too weak to hold a long piece of crown? If that's the case, get a piece of 1/16" steel and fab up one clip for around 50 cents in material instead of plunking down $28 for 25 clips.......

Bob


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## Cole

Bob Kovacs said:


> Why would you possibly want to install those clips every 36"??? You should only need one clip to hold the opposite end of the piece in place while you work your way toward it. Maybe the clips are too weak to hold a long piece of crown? If that's the case, get a piece of 1/16" steel and fab up one clip for around 50 cents in material instead of plunking down $28 for 25 clips.......
> 
> Bob


I agree!


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## firemike

I use these - - - Love 'em!

Not expensive either.

http://www.cutncrown.com/littlegreensucker.htm


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## King of Crown

Fast Caps 3rd hand
http://www.fastcap.com/press/3rdhand_images.asp


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## Gordo

Alot of these options seem expensive.


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## WAGGS

Still cheaper than a helper and doesnt call in sick


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## A.W.Davis

Bob Kovacs said:


> Why would you possibly want to install those clips every 36"??? You should only need one clip to hold the opposite end of the piece in place while you work your way toward it. Maybe the clips are too weak to hold a long piece of crown? If that's the case, get a piece of 1/16" steel and fab up one clip for around 50 cents in material instead of plunking down $28 for 25 clips.......
> 
> Bob


True Bob I agree, but in my case I am usually working 14 hour days and on Saturdays so the last thing I want to do is spend wasted hours on a Sunday fabbing something, I really dont mind spending a little money on a product that will make things easier on myself, its worth it! Just my 2 cents.


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## JamesNLA

> but in my case I am usually working 14 hour days and on Saturdays so the last thing I want to do is spend wasted hours on a Sunday fabbing something


Agreed..

And at the same time, for me, spending extra money on tools to help make my 10-16 hr days better is a no brainer. I'm all for maximum profit and I am also someone who believes suffering is optional.

Last crown job I did, I was by myself. Wound up asking one of the son's of the owner to help out for a few minutes on each piece I was doing...That sucked and I felt I looked a little unprofessional, because I was too cheap to bring a helper. Same thing a few weeks ago, I needed to remove a piece of slab and I did it with a mini sledge and straight bar...took me 2 hours. I have a similar job in the morning to do, Just got back from buying an air hammer. Didn't want to spend the extra 60 bucks, but it sure beats spending 2+hrs of hard labor. I can use that extra energy to get my job done quicker and make the same $$$. And when you have a back log like yours you gotta do whatever it takes to get to them asap. Otherwise someone else will and that was your money someone just took. My next solo crown job, bet your a$$ I'll be bringing those green monster things. Beside when a client sees you with professional tools doing a professional job, you can charge a very professional amount.
Measure 3 times, cut once


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## Teetorbilt

I think that I'll stay with my nails. I tried some suction cups by Ryobi just before the Holidays and they left marks on the walls. Nails have worked for 3 generations...............


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## King of Crown

the third hand is only like $50 and like someone else said. difinitely cheaper than a know-nothing laborer.


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## zico

Hire someone that use to play basketball.


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## behrco

I just bought some of them clips that seems to be the easiest to me couple screws, if you lose one.... who the hell cares you got 24 more. 37 bucks with shipping I aint worried. The best part is that they are compact as if I got room for the third hand in my truck I do like the green sucker things though.


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## Steve Unkie

I use 'third hand' s too. They come in handy for cabinet installations too.


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## Scott Young

depending on the size of the crown. i will use either a third hand or a nail like previously mentioned.


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## Greg Di

Those orange clips were essentially "stolen" from a guy who posted this drawing on another website. I made some out of stainless steel and you really only need one to hang any length of crown.

Heck, my friend takes a coat hanger and bends it into a "J" and puts a loop at the end for a screw head. That's all you need.

Don't buy those premade ones..


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## Greg Di

Oh yeah...I made a couple of other versions that are a little longer for nailing up 16' fascias and freize boards.


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## Greg Di

Oh yeah...again...

Back to the original question of hanging crown solo. The biggest time saver I've found is the Hilti PD30 laser measuring device. It's about $350, but all you do is stick the base against the opposite corner and "shoot" to the other opposite inside corner. It is much, much, much more accurate than pulling a tape--even with two guys, because the tape sags over long runs making the measurement longer than it really is.

I bought the PD30 specifically for crown, but have found a gazillion uses for it now that I have it. It's one of those tools that hurts to buy, but then you are glad you have it.

Note...the PD30 is ridiculously accurate because it uses a laser to measure distances--not sound waves like the $30 cheap-o ones you see all over the place. I've shot a 400'+ measurement accurate to 1/16". Oofa!


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## A.W.Davis

Greg Di said:


> Oh yeah...again...
> 
> Back to the original question of hanging crown solo. The biggest time saver I've found is the Hilti PD30 laser measuring device. It's about $350, but all you do is stick the base against the opposite corner and "shoot" to the other opposite inside corner. It is much, much, much more accurate than pulling a tape--even with two guys, because the tape sags over long runs making the measurement longer than it really is.
> 
> I bought the PD30 specifically for crown, but have found a gazillion uses for it now that I have it. It's one of those tools that hurts to buy, but then you are glad you have it.
> 
> Note...the PD30 is ridiculously accurate because it uses a laser to measure distances--not sound waves like the $30 cheap-o ones you see all over the place. I've shot a 400'+ measurement accurate to 1/16". Oofa!


Thanks for the info......I need to look into the PD30!!


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## xcavator

Great going Greg to post that photo


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## xcavator

I believe sears sells a unit 1/2 the price of Hilti's


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## xcavator

I know a guy that sizes all his windows and doors using the Hilti unit


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## AdrianRE

I have this little FatMax laser unit. I paid around $100.00. No problems as of yet and very accurate to date.


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## Greg Di

xcavator said:


> I believe sears sells a unit 1/2 the price of Hilti's


Maybe? But you can also buy a hammer drill at Sears for $39 and we know where that gets you. Measuring and layout is NOT a place to start getting cheap--it can cost you thousands fast.


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## Toothpick

Greg, with your experience with the pd 30 is it safe to assume that if accuracy is within 1/16" at say 400' it's 1/64" at 100'? (Not that it displays 1/64th's") Or is accuracy within 1/16" at any length? Also, what is the smallest fraction it goes to?


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## Greg Di

Toothpick said:


> Greg, with your experience with the pd 30 is it safe to assume that if accuracy is within 1/16" at say 400' it's 1/64" at 100'? (Not that it displays 1/64th's") Or is accuracy within 1/16" at any length? Also, what is the smallest fraction it goes to?


I have mine set to read at /16ths and a kind of forgot about changing it after that. I think it can do /32nds.

As far as accuracy, I don't know the exact answer to satisfy an engineer, but I can tell you that's it's WAY more accurate than pulling a tape 25' and getting sag, etc. The only issue I have with it is that the laser is SO accurate you have to make sure you put and hold the measuring dot in the right place.

I can't say enough good things about the PD30.

I think you can D/L the manual from Hilti online because I kind of remember doing it before I bought it.


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## JRicker

Here's another trick for solo crown... If you dont make scribe marks on the wall of the bottom of the crown, take a scrap piece and at least mark at either end. Take a finish nail and tack it in about 3 inches from the corner and an 1/8th inch below the mark. move to the middle of the wall and set the end of your tape on the nail, bump it in to the corner. I have found that even the Fat Max tapes, while have an 11' standout, start to sag at about 80" on a edge. Make a mark. Pull a measurment with end of tape on the other nail to the mark you just made, and add them. You can use the nails for resting the crown on while dry fitting. Just an idea...


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## cottageandcastl

A.W.Davis said:


> Anybody have any tricks on installing long runs of crown by yourself....is there a jig that can be purchased that will hold the other end of the crown up? I have searched with no luck.
> 
> I have 9 months of work scheduled and will be self employed very soon and wont have the advantage of having a helper to hold the other end up like I do now so I am just trying to get some ideas.


tack your piece in the center! measure your wall to the center from left, make a mark (100"?) then meassure from the right to that same mark (50") add the two (150") no guessing! bring your piece in and tack the middle, line up your inside corner and work from there.


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## cottageandcastl

*tricks for crown*

another trick, along with a good tape measure, get a light weight piece of alum. angle at least 8ft. long, mark a pricise measurement of (90") were ever you prefer, standing at the midde of the wall, place the angle into your inside corner, transfer your (90") mark, using the old fashin tape from the other corner, adding the two, and your set!


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## A.W.Davis

*update*

Well.....I finally got a chance to use my cheapy plastic crown moulding clips in my kitchen job.......they worked great, and yes I know the crown is diving down hill in the first pic,it only had a few nails when I snapped the pic......I was
able to crown the whole kitchen and dining room in about 2.5 hours by myself, it was nice


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## JPF

Hey A.W.....are the two pieces on either side of the bay mitered or coped to the piece at the back of the bay??.....just curious.....beutiful looking job by the looks of it by the way!!:thumbup:


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## A.W.Davis

Thanks....no coping on the crown, its faster for me to just cut the crown flat. I have had to cope things in the past, but usually try to avoid it.


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## EyeLevelTrimmer

Two "3rd Hands" work great. I screw a short piece of mitered plywood (like this /___\ ) to the pad on one pole and push it into the wall/ceiling corner- it serves a cradle to hold the crown up. I can slide or twist the crown in the cradle to get the joint right.
I'll use the other to force a corner together or hold one end secure while I adjust or check the other end. You can also clamp a small block the the ceiling to hook you tape on when getting measurements.


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## tcleve4911

I use my Zip Wall telescoping poles. They have non slip pads top & bottom. Work great!! They don't take breaks and don't leave to answer their cell phones.........:w00t:


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## elvinstheman




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## GOB

*10d nails work for me..*

I keep a 10d common nail in my pouch next to my nail set and use it to hold long crown when I need to, which is seldom. With under 7" crown, I don't care if I hit a stud or not. I just tap it into the drywall a bit above my guide mark at a slight downward angle and set one end of the crown on it. The trick is to set the crown on the nail right at the wall. Slides along just fine. Try it, you'll like it after a time or two. I only need to do this when making up a scarf joint or setting two outside corners (sometimes). 

I hang 3000 to 5000 feet a month by myself--no problem. A helper is an expensive luxury. They are watching you most of the time unless they can do everything you can. 

Either I'm a butcher or a lot of you guys are not understanding the problem with crown installs. Maybe both, I dunno. If the ceilings and walls were all flat planes, then knowing the geometry would be all you'd need. But they aren't, so you, and the crown, have to be flexible. Here's some things I think I've learned over the years. Take them with a grain of salt.

No chalk lines. Too messy in residences and they are just a guide anyway. I cut a block a little shy of the distance the crown hangs down the wall. I use it to mark the walls every 4-6 ft and as a block to tap joints into place. A laser is even better....I'm shopping for one now.

Always miter. The only time I cope is if I'm too lazy to recut a heavy piece that is a bit long and sticks into the drywall so much that I can't get a decent miter.

I all most never have to recut a joint. Inside joint open on top? Tap both pieces up a bit. Bottom? Both down. Outside corners? Reverse the above rules. Get a Starrett miter protractor to check the angles and you'll never hold scraps up and mark them top and bottom again.....well, all most never.

I don't run blocking if the ceiling and wall surfaces can be nailed (drywall, etc.). Nor do I seek out the studding. My 18 ga brad nailer holds it just fine. Occassionallly I use a block in a joint that needs severe twisting, 
that's all.

Bull nose corners just suck and that's all there is to it. Charge extra for the 3 piece ones and expect few of them to work per the planned cuts. And write your congressman to get them outlawed. 

There will be gaps at the walls and ceilings and that's just the nature of the beast, at least here in Florida. Blame 24" on center and no more strapping on trusses, I guess. It also seems they've outlawed drywall knives wider than 12" in my part of the world. I make this known before I start and caulking is the painters' job. Why would a carpenter do the painter's job unless he's hiding something? (lol)

Scarf joints give me the most trouble. If I can't get it damn near perfect, which I all most always do, then I never leave the top cut proud of the under cut. That way the pieces are in the same plane and a little filler easily hides the sin.

Take care at the miter saw that your crown is always sitting in it the same way. I use a 12" Dewalt with their crown stops. I also put a piece of crown in the saw and draw pencil lines on the fence at the top and on the base at 45, 22.5, and 0 degrees---left and right. Making sure the crown sits exactly where it should within a foot or so of the blade will prevent a lot of problems. Also, I've removed the adjustable fence pieces and installed a wood fence 1/2" deeper than the factory jobs. Lets me cut 7 1/4" crown left and tight with no problem. I always nest. Have never cut crown flat-talk about a time waster......

Remember, this is not a labor of love for me, though most of the time I love my job. I am competing with the other Jomokes out there and need footage on the wall every day. But my customers are happy and I get a lot of referrals. I am cheaper than most of my competitors because I work alone and crown is about all I do anymore, so I've gotten pretty fast at it. Even so, It's unusual for me to make less than $500 a day. More usually over twice that. Not too bad for a grumpy old bastard. Now if I can just find enough work to keep busy every day maybe I won't have to eat cat food when I retire after all.

I've read a lot of these but never responded before. Guess that's why I got so long winded. Anyone read this all the way through? 

-GOB in FL


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## premierpainter

Robie said:


> Yup...
> http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/FSC-3026/25-Crown-Molding-Clips


Will the clips work if you hang the crown with the right side up? The pic shows it upside down:thumbup:


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## Trimwerx

I agree with GOB. I use a nail. It works fine and is cheap and easy. You can nail it into the drywall with your tape. I just did around 600ft. alone last week using that method. Coulda done it in a day if i didn't keep running out... 

I did learn a powerful lesson though... I'll NEVER hang unpainted crown again when i'm gonna be doing the painting. I was in a HUGE hurry and thought i could brush it once and be done with it. I don't know what i was thinking...i guess i wasn't. Took me 2 days to paint it all.


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## wink

just got the book working alone, i agree , good book:thumbsup: good bye 9 dollar an hour never show up drunken helper


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