# Shower Stall Tile Floor



## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

So I've been asked to takeover for another contractor who was too slow or inefficient, etc, and one of the tasks to be done is tiling the shower stall floor. First thing I see is the concrete/mortar was poured flush with the drain. I've been trying to think of a way that this could be right but am coming up with nothing. Anyone know of a fix that wouldn't involve ripping up all of the pan? 

Since I've never done a tile shower floor before, let alone poured the pan I am somewhat reluctant to rip it all up and start from scratch though it would be a good experience.

Thanks for any help or advice.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

debaser said:


> First thing I see is the concrete/mortar was poured flush with the drain.


Finished grate or drain body?

Is the preslope proper?


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Didn't someone here mention about starting a 10 post rule... :whistling::laughing:


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Why? Questions aren't allowed now?


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

It was a joke... A read a post discussing that you should have 10 informative posts before you can ask a "how to" question... It makes me chuckle because it seems like people only sign up here when they're knee deep in the quicksand :laughing:


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Sorry, back to topic...

Discuss-


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Most times when I *pour (it has been stated as "Dry Pack" and that really is correct)* the pan I run the drain down and use it to level off of. After the mortar is set I unscrew the drain back up to the height that I need for the tile. 

Have you tried unscrewing the drain yet?


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

It is to the finished grate.

I unscrewed the grate and tried to unscrew a bit but without too much pressure. 

I don't have any info about how it was done as the owner doesn't know and the guy that poured it is on an extended vacation.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

The only guaranteed way to have a successful installation is to rip it out.....or wait for the original guy to get back from his European vacation :laughing:


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

I wouldn't rip it out until finding a seasoned tile setter/mud man to check it out and give a verdict... It could be a good install,eh? Mud isn't something that can be done in 5 minutes. He could've gotten the boot before having a chance to unscrew the drain.
Just offering some scenerios here


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

...and welcome to CT :thumbup:


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

So you're saying maybe I just didn't put enough effort in trying to unscrew it? I'll give that a try next time I am there.

I think he had plenty of time as the HO said he was working on that bathroom (~4x5') for like 5 weeks and didn't even tape the concrete boards to the drywall.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

D-
You should take some snapshots and share to give us a better idea of the pan and overall job


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Since everyone has to be nice now :whistling: Ill just say rip it out, welcome aboard, and best wishes!


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

Will do. Won't be back there until Friday.


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## cleveman (Dec 28, 2007)

Have a pleasant time until friday then. Hope you're enjoying your time on Contractor Talk as much as we're enjoying your presence here.


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## NK Flooring (Aug 21, 2008)

Take the drain cover off and use a cold chisel on the ridges of the drain to tap it loose. If it doesn't break loose, break it loose around the drain then patch with thinset. Is the entire pan pour level or is there a slop to the drain 1/4 inch per foot? I had this same scenerio about a year ago and had to prime the mud pan and reslope.


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## bluebird5 (Dec 13, 2010)

Tech are you on the welcoming committy?


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## mikeswoods (Oct 11, 2008)

Pans aren't 'poured' they are 'packed' with deck mud---take lots of pictures--

Including one from below showing the drain piping and membrane--if possible.

I think you will want to pass on this job---I would not want to be liable for future failure with so many warning bells ringing.


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

thanks for the replies guys.

mikewoods: unfortunately i can't take pictures from below but i will take a bunch when i get there. i feel the same way about passing to avoid being liable for any future failures.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

bluebird5 said:


> Tech are you on the welcoming committy?


:laughing:


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## TileLady (Apr 8, 2008)

debaser said:


> So I've been asked to takeover for another contractor who was too slow or inefficient, etc, and one of the tasks to be done is tiling the shower stall floor. First thing I see is the concrete/mortar was poured flush with the drain. I've been trying to think of a way that this could be right but am coming up with nothing. Anyone know of a fix that wouldn't involve ripping up all of the pan?
> 
> Since I've never done a tile shower floor before, let alone poured the pan I am somewhat reluctant to rip it all up and start from scratch though it would be a good experience.
> 
> Thanks for any help or advice.


As was already mentioned, pans are not poured. If you've never done a proper mud pan before, this job shouldn't be your first. This current poured pan is doomed for failure and needs to be removed. Then redone by somebody who knows how to do a proper mud pan.

Stay away. You'll thank yourself in the long run.


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

TileLady said:


> As was already mentioned, pans are not poured. If you've never done a proper mud pan before, this job shouldn't be your first. This current poured pan is doomed for failure and needs to be removed. Then redone by somebody who knows how to do a proper mud pan.
> 
> Stay away. You'll thank yourself in the long run.


OMG, look who finally showed her head in the tiling section! Welcome Leslie! You should stick around. We can always use some more info!


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## bluebird5 (Dec 13, 2010)

TileLady said:


> As was already mentioned, pans are not poured. If you've never done a proper mud pan before, this job shouldn't be your first. This current poured pan is doomed for failure and needs to be removed. Then redone by somebody who knows how to do a proper mud pan.
> 
> Stay away. You'll thank yourself in the long run.




Well it's not rocket science, but it does require research in order to full understand how the waterproofing and drain work. I think too often we tell people "oh you can't do this"... "Only I know how to do this" and I am not saying that handy dandy Randy should walk in with his or her fix anything tool box and plunger and build a shower, but shower building has been made simpler by schluter and their shower kits. But if someone has no idea what they are doing, what you said is true. It is hard to judge a persons skill level. :jester:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

debaser said:


> So I've been asked to takeover for another contractor who was too slow or inefficient, etc, and one of the tasks to be done is tiling the shower stall floor.
> ...Since I've never done a tile shower floor before


:laughing:


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## CO762 (Feb 22, 2010)

angus242 said:


> Why? Questions aren't allowed now?


Weren't you the one that kept bringing up the "ten post minimum before asking a basic 'how-to' question outside of the DIY section"?


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## angus242 (Oct 20, 2007)

Nope


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## tang (Jan 5, 2009)

This is not a job you take for the experience. It's a job that takes some experience before you attempt. If you chose to tear it out, look into surface bonded waterproofing like kerdi. It is more installer friendly than a pvc linner method.


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

ok here is an album of pictures i took today of the drain.

http://imgur.com/a/nQDkL

with a good bit of effort i was able to unscrew the drain a bit. does this look right? do i just fill in the void with thinset while tiling? 

on a side-note, the curb doesn't quite look right. shouldn't it be skimmed out with mortar?

if this needs completely redone i will pass on it. i've done plenty of tiling before but i don't want this liability.

thanks again.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Somethin don't seem right to me... If there's a liner underneath there shouldn't be screws into the inside face of the cbu (curb)
Its a clamp drain but what's the weeps draining to??

Id tear that mutha down...


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

2 questions for ya...
1. What is the subfloor? Frame or slab
2. Could you see what the curb is? (Under the cbu)


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

not sure the subfloor. assuming it's frame, but will ask homeowner monday.

guessing curb is same/2x4.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

Yeah, I think you should trash it. Looks like dips in the mortar and its not even a straight line across the back wall...
Personally, id rip down the cbu on the walls and start r over. I'm sure at least 5 others will agree after seeing those pics.

Hire a mud man and make sure your there to watch and ask questions to learn. Where are you located?


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

That shower looked some what like the first one I did, when I was 15. That one leaked, and Im pretty sure yours will too. Even if you rolled on waterproofing for days what is the weep draining too, like tech said. It could be a good opportunity for you the look good in front of the homeowners and recommend redoing it, then using that opportunity learn how its done from a pro. Winner winner chicken dinner.....


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

How about flood testing it via the plug in the pipe to test the pan first. Maybe give that a couple days. Then plug from the top and test the weep holes for a day. Just a thought.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

WildWill said:


> How about flood testing it via the plug in the pipe to test the pan first. Maybe give that a couple days. Then plug from the top and test the weep holes for a day. Just a thought.


I don't think id do that even if the HO signed off on it. If there's no liner and water back feeds up through the weep holes it could absorb the ply underneath the mortar and/or find a gap in the ply to leak through the ceiling below...


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Tech Dawg said:


> I don't think id do that even if the HO signed off on it. If there's no liner and water back feeds up through the weep holes it could absorb the ply underneath the mortar and/or find a gap in the ply to leak through the ceiling below...


I wouldnt volunteer to flood a potential clients house either..
:no:


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## WildWill (Jun 6, 2008)

Tech Dawg said:


> I don't think id do that even if the HO signed off on it. If there's no liner and water back feeds up through the weep holes it could absorb the ply underneath the mortar and/or find a gap in the ply to leak through the ceiling below...


Yea, agreed for sure. I was going to mention in my post there about "as long as there is no living space below" but didn't feel like typing all that.

Really I agree with ripping it out. I personally wouldn't tile it, just too much to chance. Was just playing devil advocate.


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## debaser (Dec 14, 2011)

i don't want to test it as underneath is an apartment lived in by the HO's tenant.

going to talk to homeowner monday and see if he knows when the previous installer is returning from vacation and if he even wants to bother getting more details from him or just rip it all out and find someone else.

i'm in pittsburgh.


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## Tech Dawg (Dec 13, 2010)

I will call a good friend of mine that lives in Monaca... He may know a good tile guy out there. If you can't find anyone, I can travel the distance for the right price


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