# Siding "shouse"



## 51carpenter

We're building a shop with a house on top, like a carriage house. 28x48, and 24` to the eave. 

We're going with metal for the roof and siding. I'm trying to get ideas on siding, how to break it up. I've done wainscoat on some buildings like this, the tallest was 18` with a 3` wainscoat, it was level with the window sills. 

If I have a bunch of 4x4 windows with the top at 6`8" to match the walk doors, and have wainscoat I don't think that 3` would be tall enough and I think it looks dorky if it runs halfway up the windows. 

I've thought about a belly band. I also plan to have multiple colors. Roof color, siding color, wainscoat color, and possibly match all j metal trim and corner metal to the roof color.

Thanks for any ideas.


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## fjn

Well,there is a book out there,the title is What Not To Build,it warns two materials per elevation and two colors. With all the color changes you mentioned,it will violate at least one of the rules.I feel you may want to rethink all those colors,you're building a shop/ house,not a rainbow.:laughing:




https://www.amazon.com/What-Not-Bui...766222&sr=8-1&keywords=book+what+not+to+build


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## 51carpenter

Right on, thanks. That book looks interesting. 

I'm just over thinking it, probably just go with a wainscoat, keep it simple.


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## Krok

fjn said:


> What Not To Build,it warns two materials per elevation and two colors.


I see a lot of condos, townhouses, and other sardine type containers that intentionally throw a mix up of the most contrasting materials/colors. It seems though as they do that in order to not make the cramped and small look cramped and small.


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## 191266

It somewhat depends on the style of the building. Sometimes the "rules" need to be broken. Can you post some images of the floor plan and/or general elevations you have in mind?

I've been working on some plans for a garage with guest house above. It's an industrial modern, with some exposed block, stucco, and standing seam aluminum roofing & siding. The three materials blend really well and work with the clean, simple lines of the building.


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## 91782

I can offer no insight on colors and such, but I think the whole concept of having a residence above the biz is way cool. (How all small towns used to be).

Is this for your own use?


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## 51carpenter

This is going to be our shouse. I've changed the design, I think I've drawn it 3 or 4 times now. 

I'll try and post a pic of my drawing tonight. 

The new design is 28x40. 2 bed, 1 bath. 2, 6 3/4" x 24" x 28` glulams will carry the floor and will be pocketed into the exterior wall. TJIs will hang off the sides of the glulams. 

The basement/shop area will have 12` walls and be open. I didn't want posts so that's why the glulams are so big. 

I'm not as worried about the exterior finish now, since I took 4` off the height. 

I'm thinking of using ICFs for the foundation, I've never used them and would like to.


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## 191266

This sounds so similar to what I'm working on. 12ft ceiling so a car lift will fit in the shop? 

I was also thinking about ICF, but I've settled on Omni block. It's like reverse ICF with the insulation inside the block, so you can leave the block exposed as the wall finish.

I'm excited to see your plan. I can clean up a few ideas and share if you'd like.


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## 51carpenter

First time posting a picture, so bear with me if I messed up


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## 51carpenter

The top of the floor will be 12` and the bottom of my two beams will be 10` and the ceiling will be 11`.

I'll be able to have 10` tall garage doors so backing trailers in will be possible. That and it's easier to spin lumber around with more headroom. Our garage at or house we're in the process of selling only had 8` ceilings and I couldn't stand it.


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## 91782

This to go up on some acreage I take it?


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## 191266

I like the split bedrooms. I'd probably extend that hall wall over so the bath is screened from the living room a bit more. 

Are there exterior stairs, or is this a sloped lot?


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## 51carpenter

I didn't label the stairs, but they are at the end of the house off the kitchen. The stairs go down under the closet for that bedroom. 

We have 2 11 acre lots next to each other. This is going up on the end of them. 

I might have a picture of the land on my phone. 

I like the idea of extending that wall.


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## 51carpenter

The 1st picture is the spot I leveled, the second is looking down hill. I had better pictures on my last phone.


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## 91782

Where is "here"?


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## 191266

Wow. Love the view.

Is the area between the two bedrooms with the exterior door the entry, or a back door?


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## 51carpenter

Thanks! The view is awesome. 

We're in Jefferson City Montana. 

Between the bedrooms is the entry, which will be on the uphill side, so the shop will be like a daylight basement.


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## 191266

That makes sense. What style are you thinking of doing?

My brain thinks in modern, so my first thought on exterior finishes would be a small cantilever for a portion of the upper level. That would give you a nice visual break and a place to change materials.


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## j_sims

I agree with joy about extending the wall. 
What you're building is a fairly big deal here in Texas... Barndominiums


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## 51carpenter

I agree on extending that wall by the bathroom, good idea!

I'm not sure on the style, it'll have a 5/12 roof and 2` eaves. 

I don't think a cantilever or dormers are in our budget. We're trying to build this one cheap and go all out when we build a house in a couple years.


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## javatom

You may have already realized this, but your going to have a headroom problem as you go down the stairs. Maybe I misunderstood where you are placing the stair.


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## 51carpenter

javatom said:


> You may have already realized this, but your going to have a headroom problem as you go down the stairs. Maybe I misunderstood where you are placing the stair.


Ya I'm not exactly sure how it will turn out. There will be a closet in the bedroom above the stairs so I figured to do some field engineering when I get to that step. I was hoping to frame the floor this weekend but I better work on my customers houses instead.


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## 51carpenter

Got the floor on, starting walls this weekend!


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## Randy Bush

What did you do use floor trusses to span that?


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## 51carpenter

16" TJIs. It feels stout. I cut the stairs last night.


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## 51carpenter

I'm terrible about taking progress pics, I think this was Friday night. Got the rest of the walls up Saturday and got trusses and most of the sheeting done today. I've been lucky with the weather, usually don't get to wear a t shirt working in November!


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## Randy Bush

51carpenter said:


> I'm terrible about taking progress pics, I think this was Friday night. Got the rest of the walls up Saturday and got trusses and most of the sheeting done today. I've been lucky with the weather, usually don't get to wear a t shirt working in November!


Looks like it is coming along nicely. The weather has been great, looks to be so for a while yet. Would be nice to get it dried in before weather turns.

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## 51carpenter

Randy Bush said:


> Looks like it is coming along nicely. The weather has been great, looks to be so for a while yet. Would be nice to get it dried in before weather turns.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk


I ordered the metal for the roof today, it's supposed to start snowing Thursday. I'll take a pic when I head up there this afternoon, it's looking like a house finally  

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## Randy Bush

51carpenter said:


> I ordered the metal for the roof today, it's supposed to start snowing Thursday. I'll take a pic when I head up there this afternoon, it's looking like a house finally
> 
> Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


Don't know how much metal you do, but one thing I like to do is at the gutter edge is to screw on both sides of the rib right into the 2x fascia board. Also if only using 1/2 sheeting I would recommend the 5/16 head screws for the roof. Much less chance of spin outs. Hope you can get it on before weather gets bad. Suppose to get nice for a little again.

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## 51carpenter

Agree on the 5/16 screws, just did a reroof that was hail damaged and they used 1/4" screws, probably 10/20% off the screws were loose or backed out. I also predrill the sheets, helps give that screw a little wiggle room to prevent them from backing out and it keeps it simple for the help, ha ha.

I like the idea of double screwing down at the eaves, I've only done that with standing seam with those screws being the only visible ones but I think I'll start doing that on everything.

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## 51carpenter

I'll post some pics I've got some on my phone. Got the metal done so it can snow all it wants now.


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## Randy Bush

51carpenter said:


> I'll post some pics I've got some on my phone. Got the metal done so it can snow all it wants now.


Good deal.:thumbsup: Hasn't the weather really been great lately. 

Been doing a bathroom addition on my house, just got it all dried in this evening. Now can slack off a little.


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## 51carpenter

I didn't take much for pictures, I'll get some from my wife, she took some today


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## Randy Bush

51carpenter said:


> I didn't take much for pictures, I'll get some from my wife, she took some today


How far off the interstate are you? I will have to stop by on my way to Sheridan sometime. 

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## 51carpenter

It's about two miles, you can see the hill behind the shouse from the interstate but you can't see the house. 

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## john5mt

jealous....I always wanted to build a shouse


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## Randy Bush

Got it dried in yet? Was pretty nice over the weekend. Was in Helena , but busy watching my grand daughter. Sounds like this week is not going to be nice doing outside work.


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## 51carpenter

Randy Bush said:


> Got it dried in yet? Was pretty nice over the weekend. Was in Helena , but busy watching my grand daughter. Sounds like this week is not going to be nice doing outside work.


I got some windows up, the ones I could reach off of the ground. I had to get an alternator for my gradall, so once I get that in I'll be able to reach the rest of the windows, probably be this weekend.

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## 51carpenter

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## 51carpenter

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## 51carpenter

I stained and sealed the concrete. There is a special wax that paint stores carry, it is applied after the sealer, restaurants use it to get their countertops approved for a food surface. 

The sealer did a pretty good job so I don’t think I’ll wax them. 

I poured this in place with the plastic breakaway forms. They were slick, I don’t think that I could have built my own forms without leaving any screw holes after removing them. 

I’ve got a 2x3 countertop to pour yet, I’ll do it in the shop with melamine forms. 

I have two more cabinets to build. I messed up the sizes of two but I was able to repurpose them so it worked out. 


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## Randy Bush

51carpenter said:


> I stained and sealed the concrete. There is a special wax that paint stores carry, it is applied after the sealer, restaurants use it to get their countertops approved for a food surface.
> 
> The sealer did a pretty good job so I don’t think I’ll wax them.
> 
> I poured this in place with the plastic breakaway forms. They were slick, I don’t think that I could have built my own forms without leaving any screw holes after removing them.
> 
> I’ve got a 2x3 countertop to pour yet, I’ll do it in the shop with melamine forms.
> 
> I have two more cabinets to build. I messed up the sizes of two but I was able to repurpose them so it worked out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looking pretty good.:thumbsup:


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## mstrat

This whole project makes me sick...I wish it was mine!!!! Looks great man!


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## 51carpenter

Thanks guys! I just snapped some pics of the shop downstairs. 


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## 51carpenter

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## 51carpenter

Place is a mess between building my cabinets and whatever comes up for jobs. I’ve got 12’ of cabinets to the left of the stove, I want to build some more for between the windows. 


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## Martin K

Very cool and, yes, I'm super jealous. Any updates?


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