# using recycled concrete



## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

dakzaag said:


> Thanks stacker, it looks better than expected. I could see this getting to be popular with the green people. I will have to keep it in mind.
> 
> Good job on the pics, I started a photo bucket account, now my helper thinks I want to be a reporter. First tool out in the morning is the camera and last thing back is the camera. I'm always telling him to get the camera.


Though they are a pain pics really really do make a thread much better. Thanks stacker for sticking with it.

I would like to see some recycled conc. walls mortared together!


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## stacker (Jan 31, 2006)

thanks guys.i think if it were mine i would power wash the wall.altho it looks ok now.
and those pix were taken with my phone.i always forgot to take my digi camera out to the job.:whistling


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Okaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay finally found this thread again, no thanks to the CT search functions. Had to go through google to find it.

I thought I would add my questions to this thread as opposed to starting a completely new one. Don't want stackers hard work to go unnoticed.

As mentioned earlier in this thread I have been collecting concrete for years and giving it to a friend of mine. Actually to be totally correct the collection stopped a long time ago, he's just now ready to get the show on the road.











Now for whatever reason my friend is pretty much doing what I say, which is dangerous as I'm not really sure what types of specs should be met. So I'm pretty much just telling him how I would do it if it were on my property and I was doing it, About all I have to go on is common sense and the knowledge gained from doing similar projects. 

I throw this out there to you guy who may have some input and thoughts.

So far this is were we are at.

I think he/we should mortar the concrete on a substantial concrete footer. As of right now he is using my kubota to dig a 2'x10" footer with a 2' kickback every 8' Rebar to be wired in. note: We are in SC with not freeze thaw

Here is a pic of the start










and one of where he is headed










I realize that part of the recipe of success for this wall will be impeccable drainage. Drain tile, stone and fabric will be put behind the wall and backfilled with fill sand.




This wall will be about 4' tall which I realize is prob pushing the outer limits of what should be done with this type of construction so any help would be appreciated.

Its late and my brain is shot, but I will add more to the post later, I just need to fire it off and get to bed.


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## CJKarl (Nov 21, 2006)

The stuff is called "urbanite" and I would have no problem using it (with proper drywall technique) to build a 4' retaining wall. No rebar, but good drainage in the back is important.


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

CJKarl said:


> The stuff is called "urbanite" and I would have no problem using it (with proper drywall technique) to build a 4' retaining wall. No rebar, but good drainage in the back is important.


It is the morning and my brain is now working again. The 4' wall height might be a little conservative for part of the wall it might approach 5' - 5.5' near the end.

Urbanite huh? Interesting. 

Well I could be completely wrong about the need to mortar this wall and if so this is the time to realize it.

My thinking for the need to mortar is for a couple of reasons. Besides the obvious strength implications, my thought is that the varying size of the bed joints can help to make up for size differences in the various pieces of concrete as this thing is built to 18" lifts, at which point we can get some wire in there. I think it also would look a lot better, but I could be wrong there as well.

In looking at the pictures I posted last night, I also realized that if this wall is to be mortared the dirt on the underside of the concrete will need to be washed off.

So again I don't know, I'm just fishing to see what you guys think. Personally I'm kind of excited about the project and hope I can get over there and help him as much as possible.


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## SAW.co (Jan 2, 2011)

loneframer said:


> One of the GCs I used to work for did about 1000 sq. ft. driveway with broken sidewalk pieces. He left about 1" margins on edges,and I have to say it looked neat. The cost must have been triple a new pour though, I would think.


I did the same thing with a walkway years ago & put pea gravel in the gaps it looked cool.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

I would mortar it only so much as needed to keep the individual pieces from "rocking". I would also have a pretty fair amount of batter, and I would not pour a concrete footing. 6-12" of key at the base on a compacted fill footing, rack em and stack em.


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Tscarborough said:


> I would mortar it only so much as needed to keep the individual pieces from "rocking". I would also have a pretty fair amount of batter, and I would not pour a concrete footing. 6-12" of key at the base on a compacted fill footing, rack em and stack em.


Hmm how much batter in 5' and what do you mean by 6-12" of key at the base. Put the key in the base of the footer? Never heard of a key in a compacted stone footer, but hey there are a LOT of things I haven't heard of (hence the value of CT) Sorry you lost me there.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Key is simply below finished grade level. It locks the toe of the wall in, so that it will not push out from the bottom. Batter keeps it from rotating from the top. I would also not lay the courses level front to back, but give them a 5-10 degree incline toward the retained dirt. Deadmen from large chunks wouldn't hurt either.


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## lukachuki (Feb 11, 2005)

Tscarborough said:


> Key is simply below finished grade level. It locks the toe of the wall in, so that it will not push out from the bottom. Batter keeps it from rotating from the top. I would also not lay the courses level front to back, but give them a 5-10 degree incline toward the retained dirt. Deadmen from large chunks wouldn't hurt either.


Makes sense thanks for the explanation.


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