# 1½ IP tap



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Need a bottoming tap for 1½" I.P. thread. Is that how they are sized? I have found some that say "1½X11.5"--that means,for 1½ pipe?, or it's really an 1½" tap? Prices also seem to vary wildly---$60 for set of three(1¼,1½,2") up to $169 for one tap!


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## randomkiller (Sep 22, 2007)

neolitic said:


> Need a bottoming tap for 1½" I.P. thread. Is that how they are sized? I have found some that say "1½X11.5"--that means,for 1½ pipe?, or it's really an 1½" tap? Prices also seem to vary wildly---$60 for set of three(1¼,1½,2") up to $169 for one tap!


 
Just look up a Greenlee or Ridgid 1 1/2" ips pipe tap


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

There is no such thing as a bottoming tap on a tapered thread.


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## PIPES (Nov 8, 2006)

KillerToiletSpi said:


> There is no such thing as a bottoming tap on a tapered thread.


Well yes and no, No you cannot bottom out a taper but, you can get pipe taps with out a taper. NPS vs. NPT

Try Mcmaster-Carr or MSC supply.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

PIPES said:


> Well yes and no, No you cannot bottom out a taper but, you can get pipe taps with out a taper. NPS vs. NPT
> 
> Try Mcmaster-Carr or MSC supply.


Right! Thanks for reading through the jumble, don't know why I didn't think of McMaster. At least I can compare with what the local houses are selling.
Bottoming tap is all I know to call one with no taper. Gotta clean out an old galvi ell, to old to mess around with doing it the hard way anymore.
Thanks again


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## Putty Truck (Oct 6, 2007)

Tapping = job killing.

I've never even owned a tap. I sell sold new plumbing systems.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Putty Truck said:


> Tapping = job killing.
> 
> I've never even owned a tap. I sell sold new plumbing systems.


Good for you! I've got a long time customer with a 1yr old $4k tile job that you could tear up for her---or clean up the ell behind the pedestal sink and put in a new nipple.


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## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

What's on the other side of the tiled wall?


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

send_it_all said:


> What's on the other side of the tiled wall?


Another tiled wall. Back to back baths. Second floor 1929 house just did "restorations", plumber pronounced drain lines "just fine":whistling


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## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

neolitic said:


> Another tiled wall. Back to back baths. Second floor 1929 house just did "restorations", plumber pronounced drain lines "just fine":whistling


What a nice guy to save the H.O. $6 like that.


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## Putty Truck (Oct 6, 2007)

neolitic said:


> Good for you! I've got a long time customer with a 1yr old $4k tile job that you could tear up for her---or clean up the ell behind the pedestal sink and put in a new nipple.


Not my problem, see?

My problem would be when the half-assed repair-by-tap leaks unseen into the wall and ruins her house.


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

neolitic said:


> Good for you! I've got a long time customer with a 1yr old $4k tile job that you could tear up for her---or clean up the ell behind the pedestal sink and put in a new nipple.


You can use a regular tap for that, you don't need a bottoming tap.


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

Putty Truck said:


> Not my problem, see?
> 
> My problem would be when the half-assed repair-by-tap leaks unseen into the wall and ruins her house.


There's no reason to do a half-ass repair with a tap. I'm sure he'll choose to do a first rate repair by tap. Just another couple wraps of teflon or a generous slathering of dope. You're acting like you've never done such a thing before?


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Putty Truck said:


> Not my problem, see?
> 
> My problem would be when the half-assed repair-by-tap leaks unseen into the wall and ruins her house.


Glad you can diagnose and solve all problems from such a great distance. Please explain exactly what it is that you _think_is going on here. Give me your detailed and all knowing instruction for a complete and satisfactory repair. Also be sure to include your phone number and all contact information, because I'm sure that the home owners will want to hire you immediately! Such a calm, pleasant and level headed guy as your self.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

mdshunk said:


> There's no reason to do a half-ass repair with a tap. I'm sure he'll choose to do a first rate repair by tap. Just another couple wraps of teflon or a generous slathering of dope. You're acting like you've never done such a thing before?


Thanks for giving a brother credit for being able to accomplish something as complex as replacing a nipple for a lavatory drain. Putty had me intimidated there for a minute.


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## mdshunk (Mar 13, 2005)

neolitic said:


> Thanks for giving a brother credit for being able to accomplish something as complex as replacing a nipple for a lavatory drain. Putty had me intimidated there for a minute.


Tip from me to you (hopefully Putty's not listening)... If you chuck up a small wire brush in your drill and clean up the crud inside the ell's threads, that's often all it takes. That way, all you're removing is crud, and don't have a chance of removing actual metal of the threads, like might happen if you use the tap to chase the threads. 

Don't take my word for it though. I'm just a dumb wire twister.


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

KillerToiletSpi said:


> You can use a regular tap for that, you don't need a bottoming tap.


It's an OLD galvanized ell, I just wanted to get as much thread as I can. I'm not sure how much taper is on a tap that size. I'd be inclined to accept advice from a guy who manages Chi-town traffic every day.:smile:


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## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

mdshunk said:


> Tip from me to you (hopefully Putty's not listening)... If you chuck up a small wire brush in your drill and clean up the crud inside the ell's threads, that's often all it takes. That way, all you're removing is crud, and don't have a chance of removing actual metal of the threads, like might happen if you use the tap to chase the threads.
> 
> Don't take my word for it though. I'm just a dumb wire twister.


Thanks.
Done that many times, _little too much_ metal left in there this time though. I'd go into other alternatives that work sometimes too, but I'm not up for a flame war tonite:whistling


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## Herk (Aug 1, 2007)

Neolitic said:


> It's an OLD galvanized ell,


A galvanized ell on drainage? Interesting. Of course, that was the pre-code days.

I once made an improvised tap by cutting a semi-long thread on a short pipe, then hacksawing against the thread on both sides, then a slight twist to the end to bring up the edge on both sides and make it like a thread cutter. It can help clear threads, but it won't take out metal.


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## KillerToiletSpider (May 27, 2007)

neolitic said:


> It's an OLD galvanized ell, I just wanted to get as much thread as I can. I'm not sure how much taper is on a tap that size. I'd be inclined to accept advice from a guy who manages Chi-town traffic every day.:smile:


I've cleaned up threads on 90 year old water risers and have never owned a bottoming tap, If a regular one works on a system running at 90 PSI, it will do the trick on your drain line.

The trick to the traffic is leave early.


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