# Paint grade millwork.. best finish?



## healthyhomes (Mar 14, 2008)

To all the painting and wood finishing pros-

When painting things like doors, window jambs, hand rails etc, what is the best way to finish? Acrylic paint sprayed on? Laquer? Our painter currently sprays all doors, casing, and base in 100 percent acrylic paint (usually white) and it gives a decent finish, but it still isn't super smooth. Any pointers!? I would love to improve upon the quality of finish of our paint grade millwork.

Also, what would you say is the most common approach to this (best quality or not?)


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

How super smooth are we talking? Can you describe what the finish is presently that has you less than happy?


----------



## healthyhomes (Mar 14, 2008)

I guess I want something that resembles a pre-finished product of sorts, or like a lacquered cabinet maybe. Something that will set our finished product apart from others. Currently when the painters paint aspen, pine, birch etc with a latex product, it just looks and feels like a painted wall (orange peely, and just "cheap looking and feeling").


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

I'm probably not the best to answer finishes, but I do finish my cabinets with a conversion varnish and occasionally have used lacquer on them too. 

However, I would think that there could be an adjustment with either the tip of the sprayer and/or the product used. I have heard really good things about Muralo. My finisher recommends it.

I don't think you want to go the lacquer route. It will give you the finish you are looking for, but I don't feel that the durability will be there. You can get the Muralo in an acrylic ceramic finish. 

What is your painter using for his rig setup?


----------



## healthyhomes (Mar 14, 2008)

He just has one of those portable Titan sprayers. I would even be willing to buy him a new sprayer to get a nicer finish! Any suggestions? HVLP or no?


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I think he needs a different tip.


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

I would suggest start simple and cheap first, test some things. Tip, like Darcy said. Dunno the airless tips that well, something like 313????

And what precisely are they using for paint. Brand and product. Prep IMO is the key. Good sanding, good primer. Even for regular wall painting, I go 2 coats primer, 2 coats paint. Not heavy coats. 

Orange peel could be many things. I know how you feel. You want that extra pop for the customer. 

I watched a really good painter once brush on regular SW onto cabinets. No thinning, straight out of the can. It was near flawless. Light brush strokes. Don't want to knock your painter, but have you thought about using someone else? Or talked with your present one and see what they can do to get a better finish?


----------



## healthyhomes (Mar 14, 2008)

I really agree. I think a big part of it IS the prep, and the quality of work. Unfortunately, we are on our 5th painter in 2 years! It's crazy here. A small handful of really good painters are absolutely swamped. I cant find anyone that is truly talented. It is a tough thing to master, and I dont have the ability to train anyone myself as I know a limited amount. I was hoping there was a product that would at least assist in providing a smoother finish.


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

I honestly feel for you. I know how hard it is to find decent help, I too have been for the most part unsuccessful. But I think this post may shed some light.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f3/master-carpenter-105088/index2/#post1299105

I think you could change the product a dozen times and still end up with the same result. It's probably not what you want to hear, but I really think you need to invest some serious time into finding or training the right painter.


----------



## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

Is your painter sanding? Pre prime, after prime, after 1st top coat? That will make a world of difference.

Proclassic from sherwin is pretty standard but is a fickle paint to work with. Runs very easily but it powders when sanded rather than peel like a latex.

You could apply an alkyd finish coat like Benjamin Moore Impervo for a classic oil gloss feel.

Solo gloss is another sherwin paint which is easier to apply than PC, less expensive, interior/ exterior, low voc and very fast cure to almost zero blocking. I like this paint a lot.

A little xim extender and a 212 or 312 fine finish tip will produce very good results.


----------



## Pete'sfeets (Mar 20, 2011)

I use a shellac primer on the wood jambs if there aren't too many of them, I know it will sand up super smooth. For hand railings I think the Advance finish is awesome, levels out and feels like you can wash it, but not very cost efficient for all the trim, I try to frown on oil type finishes although it starts as a waterbourne. You might try buying him some quality sandpaper for xmas such as the Norton 3times better 180 & 150 grit they have at home depot, sold at sherwin too but overpriced. Some painters have this mindset that rolling everything to give it texture is a solution to hiding the flaws but really a latex primer needs alot more time to dry until it is sandable and few of us make it available.I wouldn't suggest a real oil finish it is only available for steel that rusts


----------



## aptpupil (Jun 12, 2010)

i agree with others. try a fine tip like a 312 and a waterborne alkyd. i've had very good quality results when the surface is sanded with 220 and tacked clean before each coat.


----------

