# Stair Stringers



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

So I'm doing a set of stairs and I want to hold them off framing to be able to slide my drywall and skirt boards down along side of instead cutting the skirt boards in. Bosses request. From what I've down in the past has been to lay the stringer along side my wall framing mark the bottom of the stringer. Take a continuous 2x6 and nail it to the wall framing then nail the stringer to the 2x6. 1/2"drywall+3/4" skirt =1 1/4" that gives me an extra 1/4" to play with. 

So what other methods do some of you use to do this?


----------



## WarriorWithWood (Jun 30, 2007)

I do it the same way then I use base cap to cover the 1/4" gap.


----------



## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

I nail the 2x to the stringer first.


----------



## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

Brutus said:


> I nail the 2x to the stringer first.


Do you use some really long nails to fasten this all to the studs? Just curious


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

WarriorWithWood said:


> I do it the same way then I use base cap to cover the 1/4" gap.


 This one gets carpet so I don't have to worry about the gap.


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

Brian Peters said:


> Do you use some really long nails to fasten this all to the studs? Just curious


2nd that question. 

??????


----------



## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

Brian Peters said:


> Do you use some really long nails to fasten this all to the studs? Just curious


The stringer with the 2X strongback on the wall side would be strong enough without nailing to the studs. My framers just toenail through the studs into the 2X on the outside of the stringer. We use a 2X4, not a 2X6 but it really shouldn't make a difference so long as the 2X sits below the notch. This is really a far better way to do your stairs. 

Not only is it far easier for the drywallers, it produces a stronger straighter wall. When notching to fit the treads those notches/points in the drywall are weak points. The same for the mop board. It installs easier, it looks better, and it is stronger.


----------



## Brian Peters (Feb 2, 2011)

I've always done it with a 2x4 fastened to the wall first....fastened to the stringer first would save some time though 
That's what I like about this site, always new and different and better ways of doing things!


----------



## Hardly Working (Apr 7, 2005)

That was my thought exactly when I posted this. How many ways can we skin this cat. My boss just wanted me to go ahead and scab on 2x4 scrap to the stringer and nail that onto the wall framing. HUH?


----------



## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

Brian Peters said:


> Do you use some really long nails to fasten this all to the studs? Just curious





Hardly Working said:


> 2nd that question.
> 
> ??????


What Thom said. Toe nail through the stud into the 2x.

If this is not accessible, be it from finished wall on the other side, or on exterior wall, I go under the stringer and toe nail through the 2x into the stud.


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 17, 2008)

Brutus said:


> What Thom said. Toe nail through the stud into the 2x.
> 
> If this is not accessible, be it from finished wall on the other side, or on exterior wall, I go under the stringer and toe nail through the 2x into the stud.


toenail????? i use 4" screws


----------



## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

I try to always nail the 2x up first and then the stringer. No real time savings doing it the other way and less splitting of studs/stringer.


----------



## knucklehead (Mar 2, 2009)

Don't do it. 

Nail it all together tight to the studs. They can cut the sheetrock to fit.If you don't it will squeek and move eventually.


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

woodworkbykirk said:


> toenail????? i use 4" screws


Right on, same here. I've done the toenail thing as well. 

That kind of sounded weird :laughing:


----------



## Kent Whitten (Mar 24, 2006)

knucklehead said:


> Don't do it.
> 
> Nail it all together tight to the studs. They can cut the sheetrock to fit.If you don't it will squeek and move eventually.


Don't do what, add the 2x? If one nails and screws everything properly, there's no squeaking or moving anywhere.


----------



## 402joel (Sep 1, 2011)

I normally nail a one piece 2x4 flush to the bottom of the stringer, then a drop of glue to each stud, then toenail to the wall
Toenailing one nail to each side of the stud increases the clamping pressure, minimizes any movement


----------



## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

402joel said:


> I normally nail a one piece 2x4 flush to the bottom of the stringer, then a drop of glue to each stud, then toenail to the wall
> Toenailing one nail to each side of the stud increases the clamping pressure, minimizes any movement



I like that glue idea. I thought about it before, but never actually did it. Maybe if I ever get out of town house hell (confined stairs, 3-4 step stringers, lots of landings), I'll give this a go.


----------



## kyle_dmr (Mar 17, 2009)

I make 1 phone call and stairs arrive in a weeks time. I'm confused??


----------



## Brutus (May 29, 2007)

kyle_dmr said:


> I make 1 phone call and stairs arrive in a weeks time. I'm confused??


Damn Ontario guys and their delivered stairs.

Cannings getting prefab walls delivered!

Do you guys do anything besides pick up the phone and sit in the truck to drink coffee? :laughing:


----------



## Needles (May 18, 2012)

When stairs are installed next to a party wall that requires continuous type x to maintain a required fire rating. I have had to hold my stringer back for what ever the layering is. Comeback after rock and add some lags before the stairs get rocked.


----------

