# Working around immovable claw foot tub ideas



## Mobly Handyman (Nov 11, 2016)

Got a very good customer has asked us to install a new sheet of vinyl in her upstairs bath which has a monstrous old claw foot tub in it. Short of tearing out the trim & removing the door & frame, I don't think we can get the tub out of the room. Especially with just two guys doing this and my old butt basically worthless when it comes to lifting something that heavy anymore.

I have an idea of trying to use either a bottle or floor jack to lift the tub up on one end. Then laying some lengths of 2X6 under it to block up that end & hold it up while I get down new under-layment & the vinyl rolled out & stuck down over to that point. Then carefully setting it back down & repeat the process on the other end. 

Do you think this will work, or does anyone have another suggestion? Got a few days to ponder on it, but hoping to get this laid first of next week. Thanks.


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## Frank Castle (Dec 27, 2011)

So you can disconnect it.? 
Get 4 of these.
Tilt tub up ( like you planned ) and set the tub on them.
Roll it to out of the way - if you can, roll it back. Working like you planned, but you won't have to work under the tub.

I have a pool table sitting on a set of them now as I'm working on a basement floor. Should hold the weight. At least short time. They are rated at 200lbs./dolly.


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

Frank Castle said:


> So you can disconnect it.?
> Get 4 of these.
> Tilt tub up ( like you planned ) and set the tub on them.
> Roll it to out of the way - if you can, roll it back. Working like you planned, but you won't have to work under the tub.
> ...


Use those and you will destroy the vinyl when you go to put the tub back in. I watched a guy ruin a 2 day old floor using those to move a fridge. 

If the tub is cast iron just disconnect everything and just lift and block it up, I have even used a 2x8 over a block as a lever and quickly slid a block under the tub. I did one side at a time to keep the tub stable.


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## Mobly Handyman (Nov 11, 2016)

Yes can easily disconnect tub from water supply & drain. We recently re-piped this place in pex, and converted to copper just below the floor up there for looks. I had though about casters, but was worried they would cut the new vinyl. Kind of worried about just setting it down on vinyl. 

Good to hear that I appear to at least be on the right track with this. Now to figure out what the PIA factor on this job is worth on the price.


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## madmax718 (Dec 7, 2012)

roll over plywood if you have to! (dont forget to jack over ply as well too). Couple sheets of MDF work too. Just depends on the weight and size of casters.


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## PrecisionFloors (Jan 24, 2006)

Why sheet vinyl? I would have tried to talk her into something easier to work with, within the logistical limits of the job. If it was piece goods you could use an air sled to move it from one side of the room to the other, lay the floor, and slide it back - no damage. Hell you could probably move if full of water even...


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## CPMKW (Apr 28, 2014)

Precision has this right. Vinyl planks and you probably would only have to lift on leg at a time as you worked.

Offer the sheet good plus PIA price vs a good plank price. 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

What's the flooring now?


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## Mobly Handyman (Nov 11, 2016)

The floor has linoleum on it now that is in bad shape. Tried steering her toward a different floor covering, but she has heart set on this vinyl she's already bought. Thanks for the replies


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Couple of strategic eyebolts into framing above, a few ratchet straps...
:shifty:


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

I once had to move a stone tub to get some new flooring in. I think it was about 900 pounds. I called a piano moving company. 4 guys – done in less than 15 minutes - $250. They actually had to flip it on its side (while holding it) to get it through the door. 

Guess who moved it back in. Best $500 I’ve spent. My back says it was priceless.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Years ago I was working a job with a massive tub carved out of a solid piece of granite. It was delivered and set in place during framing by a crane.

Come time to install flooring the tile setter refused to set the tiles to the tub and demanded the tub be moved. They managed to lift it by putting scaffolding over it, laying an I beam on the scaffolding. Then they made a sling around the tub and lifted it with a chain block mounted the the I beam. Once it was lifted they rolled it out of the way.

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## rservices (Aug 3, 2005)

I had the same issue this summer, except we tiled. The tub was too big to even get it out of the room. We tilled one-half of the room waited a few days for the mortar to cure and grout then we positioned the tub on boards and walked it into place and then finished the room.
This was a 110-year-old home with floors that sloped away from the walls where the drain was. I had a metal fab guy make me 4.5" stainless disc (several) so I could put them under the feet of the tub to distribute the weight better and correct the drainage of the tub. Because we tiled the room there were other subfloor issues we also need to deal with. The tile pattern had to be set so that each of the feet landed center of each tile and reinforcing the subfloor to be able to tile. The original floor was 1x6 pine covered with 3/8" particle board with rolled on vinyl.
Needless to say what should have been a 2 day project ended up being 3 hours a crack over 6 days


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## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

the issue with anything heavy on wheels is the wrinkling of the vinyl, any other hard surface it is less of an issue.


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## Lunicy (Dec 24, 2004)

What about the magic sliders, or some variant?
The plastic discs that are made of some slick type of plastic, under each foot.


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## Mobly Handyman (Nov 11, 2016)

rservices said:


> I had the same issue this summer, except we tiled. The tub was too big to even get it out of the room. We tilled one-half of the room waited a few days for the mortar to cure and grout then we positioned the tub on boards and walked it into place and then finished the room.
> This was a 110-year-old home with floors that sloped away from the walls where the drain was. I had a metal fab guy make me 4.5" stainless disc (several) so I could put them under the feet of the tub to distribute the weight better and correct the drainage of the tub. Because we tiled the room there were other subfloor issues we also need to deal with. The tile pattern had to be set so that each of the feet landed center of each tile and reinforcing the subfloor to be able to tile. The original floor was 1x6 pine covered with 3/8" particle board with rolled on vinyl.
> Needless to say what should have been a 2 day project ended up being 3 hours a crack over 6 days



This is also a historic home built ca. 1908-10 and was "Sears" house. Our local historical society has a 1908 Sears catalogue that features this very house for $1995. From 1965-1990 a prominent local author & teacher Jack Conroy lived here. There's a pic of the outside of the place from 2010 & short article about it here if anyone is interested. http://www.moberlymonitor.com/article/20100520/NEWS/305209885 

So this is sort of a high profile job, which we're pretty honored to be working on. We've already re-piped the place & redone the ceiling & floor of 1st fl bath & have a handful of other projects to do here after this floor. I suspect this floor project will also end up taking all of 2 days if not 3.


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