# wood filler vs. caulk for trim



## fabiano

This is my first time installing trim work. When do you guys use caulk and when do you use wood filler or putty instead? My corners are coming out pretty good. I have to fill my nail holes and a few nicks in the trim. I'll be painting the trim, not staining. The cotractor that built the house I live in now did sloppy trim work and covered with what looks like a ton of caulk. I'm thinking if I do have to fix any corners I'll use filler so i can sand it and get a nice, neat corner. Any advice here is greatly appreciated!


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## Mr. D

Caulk for edges along wavy walls. 
Filler for filling


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## slickshift

Mr. D said:


> Caulk for edges along wavy walls.
> Filler for filling


Yup
Sometimes putty for nail holes


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## KENNEDY

Caulk for inside corners, filler/putty for outside corners, holes, and scarf joints (if needed).


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## AAPaint

KENNEDY said:


> Caulk for inside corners, filler/putty for outside corners, holes, and scarf joints (if needed).


This is what I do. Caulk for along walls and inside corners only. Outside corners get puttied and sanded. The look is much cleaner this way....seems people like to destroy outside corners wiping caulk everywhere trying to fill the minute gap in the miter joint. Nail holes, etc get putty...caulk in nail holes is annoying and looks like crap...dang carpenters, lol!


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## ChuckEA

*Caulking the edges*

Do you guys always caulk the edges along the wall or just when wavy? I've seen buiders around here that use caulk everywhere, even when the trim fits tight to the wall/ceiling. Seems to me that you can get a cleaner cut line if there is no caulk rounding the edge.


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## AAPaint

I have no issues getting it razor straight when caulked, and I honestly prefer the caulked look. Now matter how tight and perfect it's installed, the gap sticks out bad to me where most probably wouldn't notice. Unfortunately for stained trim, there's no caulking that, but carpenters tend to at least try and put their best foot forward on those installs I've seen. 

One important thing about caulk though. It should only be enough to bridge the gap, there shouldn't be any rounding if it's dont correctly....meaning caulked very tight and clean.


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## LI Rich

Caulk top and bottom seams for a clean look. For nail holes, window glazing works great. Roll it in ball and wipe it into the hole. "Sand" it with your finger immediately--no sanding necessary.


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## Richard

I usually caulk edges and fill holes FLUSH :clap: ( I cant stand carpenter hacks who should leave it to us ) with MH readypatch...


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## Jonesey

The 66 and 33 glazing is an oil based compound and will yellow low-acrylic content finishes. Best to use spackling pre-latex. That's what I do in closets when we latex them out.


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## LI Rich

Good point! We've never had a problem, but in 99% of the cases we're priming before topcoating anyway (new mouldings). We do a pretty thorough prep job on wood.


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## Peladu

There is a painter that I use who fills the nail holes heavy with Durabond, then sands it down after it dries.

He's the only one I have ever seen do that and I have to tell you, I was/am very impressed with the final product.

I doubted him at first, but when he was done, there were no imperfections. This was on a $800K house, might have been a $850K house should the HO went with a stained wood.


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## Brushslingers

I always use the oil based putty for holes, never had a problem but... I also use whiting, without it the oil based putty will indeed fisheye.


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## AAPaint

Brushslingers said:


> I always use the oil based putty for holes, never had a problem but... I also use whiting, without it the oil based putty will indeed fisheye.


Good post...whiting powder makes a major difference in the way the putty sets up. It prevents the shrinkage in a big way.


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