# Track saw



## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

I'm looking to buy a track saw/ plunge saw.
So my thing is is it worth buying and having it in the collection of tools 
I want to get this because when I do cabinets the fullers come attach really want a cut for when I scribe the cabinet in


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Yes it is worth it.

A straight line scribe?:blink:


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

A angle in the wall


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

I don't even use mine much, and it's worth every cent for the rare occasion I pull it out


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

jlsconstruction said:


> I don't even use mine much, and it's worth every cent for the rare occasion I pull it out


 what kind do you have and how much track do you have?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Directfinish said:


> what kind do you have and how much track do you have?


Festool ts55

I have a 55" and a 118"


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Directfinish said:


> what kind do you have and how much track do you have?


2 Festool TS-55's, 1-Festool TS-75 and a little over 80' of rail. 

I have 16-20 clamps of various types and sizes. 

The TS's and the Domino's are the tools I would have the hardest time giving up.

Tom


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

just used my ts55 and ts75 to edge join some countertop material. dominos for alignment


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

tjbnwi said:


> 2 Festool TS-55's, 1-Festool TS-75 and a little over 80' of rail.
> 
> I have 16-20 clamps of various types and sizes.
> 
> ...


Now you're making people jealous Tom...

Why 2 55's? Not having to change blades?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Now you're making people jealous Tom... Why 2 55's? Not having to change blades?


Probably the same reason I have 4 worm drives


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## blackbear (Feb 29, 2008)

I use my ts 55 all day, everyday.. Go with the ts 75. I wish I did. The 55 could use some more ballz.


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Now you're making people jealous Tom... Why 2 55's? Not having to change blades?


 big time money I have trouble saving for one


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

jlsconstruction said:


> Probably the same reason I have 4 worm drives


And why is that? I don't even have one... You don't use all 4 at once.
Different blades? Different guys using them at the same time?


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Get it. I love using ours for scribing cabinet sides. You will find legit uses that make it more and more worthwhile. You could hold off on the longer track for now but you'll end up ordering one.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> And why is that? I don't even have one... You don't use all 4 at once. Different blades? Different guys using them at the same time?



Different guys. 


Today we had all of them out, with 2 circular saws


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I have to look into the different clamps available for the track. I may find different ways to utilize it.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

I've used it for scribing many a cabinet side. It's a great tool for that. Example, pulled a vanity that we were going to re-install, exterior wall is out of level. After raising it on a new toe kick that was level and sliding to the wall, I have a 1/4" gap at the bottom which the previous installer had just caulked.

I laid the vanity on it's back, marked a 1/4" on the top, laid the track, and cut. Fast, dust free, quicker than any other method you could have used with perfect accuracy. So yeah... they're worth it.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

jlsconstruction said:


> Different guys.
> 
> 
> Today we had all of them out, with 2 circular saws


Eh... I always pull rank and get the track saw... :laughing:

They have to use the table saw or a circular. lol. One day maybe... got to buy a Kapex first though.


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Eh... I always pull rank and get the track saw... :laughing: They have to use the table saw or a circular. lol. One day maybe... got to buy a Kapex first though.



We're framing a remodel. Timber frame from 1850. Everything has to be cut different.


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## CENTERLINE MV (Jan 9, 2011)

Love mine for those tapered extension jambs.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> Now you're making people jealous Tom...
> 
> Why 2 55's? Not having to change blades?


When we were doing the casework for the Cleveland project it would have been a disaster to be without a track saw, so I purchased a back up. When we went to do the install we took 1 55 and left one in the shop. I could not afford the down time if things were not being process here while we were away for 2 days with the 55. It's the same reason I have 2 DF 500's, could not afford to be without the tool. 

As you know blade changes on the TS saws is very easy. I think I have 20 blades of various tooth count in rotation (majority are the 48 tooth for the 55's). 

I have the 75 for thicker items and to mount in the TS-75 CMS plate. 

A little bit of lumber I picked up today that will be processed with the TS saws tomorrow. I was told by the person that loaded my trailer FML process 80,000 feet of lumber a day. Most of this is QSWO, one piece is over 9" wide.

(Excuse the filthy truck please)

Tom


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Tom M said:


> I have to look into the different clamps available for the track. I may find different ways to utilize it.


Start with the Rapid Clamp and a couple of screw clamps (get the 11").

The Rapid Clamp as a spreader to hold the rail in place;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ris8_OdlGYc
Tom


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

That's a great use of the Rapid Clamp!


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> And why is that? I don't even have one... You don't use all 4 at once.
> Different blades? Different guys using them at the same time?


Especially when doing decking, I have a saw on each end of the 20' stack of deck boards, this way I'm not dragging a saw back and forth to square up the ends, when necessary.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

Californiadecks said:


> Especially when doing decking, I have a saw on each end of the 20' stack of deck boards, this way I'm not dragging a saw back and forth to square up the ends, when necessary.


Tip of the day.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

If you can come up with the scratch, buy a TS55.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

The Makita is 12 amps the ts55 I believe is 10 amps. Because of the density of composite I think the higher amperage motor may be the best for me.


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I've used it for scribing many a cabinet side. It's a great tool for that. Example, pulled a vanity that we were going to re-install, exterior wall is out of level. After raising it on a new toe kick that was level and sliding to the wall, I have a 1/4" gap at the bottom which the previous installer had just caulked. I laid the vanity on it's back, marked a 1/4" on the top, laid the track, and cut. Fast, dust free, quicker than any other method you could have used with perfect accuracy. So yeah... they're worth it.


 thanks


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

CENTERLINE MV said:


> Love mine for those tapered extension jambs.


 what do mean?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

You can trim a cabinet in place;

https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer#photo/tbadernwi/5559982153139116881/5559982647348910338

Can't find the photo where the rail is cantilevered off an angled cabinet so I could trim it. 

I started straight lining the material I picked up.

http://youtu.be/GjFXJDpmO-I

Tom


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## Nick R (May 20, 2012)

I had to trim a cabinet above a refrigerator that was tiled in place. No way to remove the fridge. I used the ts55 just clearing the fridge hinges. They called me because anyone else would have used a chainsaw.


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## dvatt (Apr 16, 2009)

Robie said:


> Tip of the day.


I have been very frustrated with Fiberon as there ends are not square. I haven't had this problem with timbertech ever.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

dvatt said:


> I have been very frustrated with Fiberon as there ends are not square. I haven't had this problem with timbertech ever.


I still cut them because my cuts look better. Sometimes you can see the color difference when looking through the gaps with thier cuts. So I cut everything for consistency.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

tjbnwi said:


> You can trim a cabinet in place;
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer#photo/tbadernwi/5559982153139116881/5559982647348910338
> 
> ...


Your video popped up in my news feed from Festool. :thumbup:

(You need a better camera... :laughing


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> (You need a better camera... :laughing


That's not going to happen. Most likely the guy who set up the camera anyway. 

Tom


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

So I done so my homework 
Since I don't own any festools 
I think I might go with makita plunge saw any thoughts?


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

it don't matter. i'm 100% addicted to festool so having system compatibility is crucial. But if you want a track saw period. its a good buy.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

Directfinish said:


> So I done so my homework Since I don't own any festools I think I might go with makita plunge saw any thoughts?


I would get the festool. That way you can buy loads more if their stuff and have justification because its a system lol


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Directfinish said:


> So I done so my homework
> Since I don't own any festools
> I think I might go with makita plunge saw any thoughts?


I do not own a Makita, but have read good things about them. The only negative I've seen more than once was the length of the cord is to short. I do know there are fewer rail options, but it will run on a Festool track. 

If you had done your homework wouldn't you have the answer (and a saw) by now?

Tom


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Directfinish said:


> So I done so my homework
> Since I don't own any festools
> I think I might go with makita plunge saw any thoughts?


CaliDecks seems happy with his Makita. Googling "site:contractortalk.com makita track saw" will get you some threads on the subject.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

tjbnwi said:


> I'll measure the blade distance from the front of the saw latter and get back to you. I'll check at the blade change lock and full plunge.
> 
> Tom


Thanks Tom, 

What's equally important is the back of the blade, there are lots of times I have to start the cut the from the other direction, sometimes this is the only option due to a deck edge where there's only one side to place the track. I'm about ready to go buy it today if it's not much difference. I will go there and check on this. Any excuse to buy a tool. Lol, good God I need one of those meetings.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Californiadecks said:


> Thanks Tom,
> 
> What's equally important is the back of the blade, there are lots of times I have to start the cut the from the other direction, sometimes this is the only option due to a deck edge where there's only one side to place the track. I'm about ready to go buy it today if it's not much difference. I will go there and check on this. Any excuse to buy a tool. Lol, good God I need one of those meetings.


Edit: if I'm not careful I'm going to find myself over there in the TBA thread picking up the pieces of what's left of my life.


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## pinwheel (Dec 7, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> Edit: if I'm not careful I'm going to find myself over there in the TBA thread picking up the pieces of what's left of my life.


I hear ya. I had to drop $750 last night on a new shop compressor.


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## N.E.Bldg&Rest.LLC (Aug 18, 2005)

Californiadecks said:


> Edit: if I'm not careful I'm going to find myself over there in the TBA thread picking up the pieces of what's left of my life.


If a new tool allows you to properly use the word "efficient" 

efficient*(ɪˈfɪʃənt) —adj: 1. functioning or producing effectively and with the least waste of effort; competent: 2. philosophy producing a direct effect ... 

Then the tool purchase becomes an investment and therefore money in the bank!


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Back of blade to farthest point of hose port at 1/2 blade depth 6-3/4",
At full depth 5-3/4"

I've had times where I've installed lookouts to support the rail to trim a porch or deck. It gets you past the post. Have to decide whether you want to spend the time trimming with a MM or installing the lookouts. 

Tom


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

tjbnwi said:


> Back of blade to farthest point of hose port at 1/2 blade depth 6-3/4",
> At full depth 5-3/4"
> 
> I've had times where I've installed lookouts to support the rail to trim a porch or deck. It gets you past the post. Have to decide whether you want to spend the time trimming with a MM or installing the lookouts.
> ...


The cool thing is even if it doesn't cut it off it will still leave a kerf part of the way. The leading edge of the kerf is often times the only thing visible anyway.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

tjbnwi said:


> Back of blade to farthest point of hose port at 1/2 blade depth 6-3/4",
> At full depth 5-3/4"
> 
> I've had times where I've installed lookouts to support the rail to trim a porch or deck. It gets you past the post. Have to decide whether you want to spend the time trimming with a MM or installing the lookouts.
> ...


Having no clue what you mean by this... are you talking about attaching supports or as you say, "lookouts" to the end joist or band board and being able to have your rail sit almost completely off the deck and run the saw on the outside of the posts to do your cut off of the deck boards?


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Yes. 

Tom


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Here's the two tracks together, the only thing I could see different was the lip on the Makita track that's used for the 45 degree clip. Other then that I don't see any reason the Festool saws wouldn't work with Makita rails.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

I Checked the bottom as well, the slot is exactly the same


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

Don't go with makita if you want festool guide rail accessories. Or you's gots to cut off anti tip lip.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

I was wondering about this, doesn't look like the parallel guides will work with it.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

For those that own both the TS55 and the 75 which one do you use the most?


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> For those that own both the TS55 and the 75 which one do you use the most?


I don't own both, just the TS55REQ, but here's my thoughts for whatever it's worth.

The 55 is almost 4 pounds lighter than the 75. I just finished using it to break down 16 sheets of plywood. I wouldn't have wanted the extra 4 pounds every time I used it. Others probably know better, but if I remember correctly, the 55REQ being the newest model has refinements that work better than the 75 having to do with the splinter guard and some other things.

Blade cost would also be a factor IMO. The blades for the 75 are a good bit more.

But as to which one you use more, seems that would be totally dependent on your application. I've used it to cut almost exclusively 3/4" or smaller OSB, plywood, or solid wood. I've ripped plenty of 2x material with it and various other things. I've had one time where I made a custom piece for a column base on an old house and had to cut 2 1/4" and depth of cut off the rail for the 55 is only 2 1/8". They were short pieces and I think I finished them with a jigsaw.

I do very little solid wood ripping or anything that having the extra power would be useful. So for me personally, the 55 is definitely the saw I would go to.

But I don't own both... :laughing:


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> I don't own both, just the TS55REQ, but here's my thoughts for whatever it's worth.
> 
> The 55 is almost 4 pounds lighter than the 75. I just finished using it to break down 16 sheets of plywood. I wouldn't have wanted the extra 4 pounds every time I used it. Others probably know better, but if I remember correctly, the 55REQ being the newest model has refinements that work better than the 75 having to do with the splinter guard and some other things.
> 
> ...


 I was just wondering if I owned both if I would always grab the 75 even though the 55 is adequate. No big issue.

I like the idea of the 75 because I do the occasional 1-1/2" composite. It's very dense. My brother caught wind of me possibly buying the 75 and he's bugging me about selling him my Makita. He knows I would give it to him cheap. Although I think it might be best to keep both.


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## Xtrememtnbiker (Jun 9, 2013)

Californiadecks said:


> I was just wondering if I owned both if I would always grab the 75 even though the 55 is adequate. No big issue.
> 
> I like the idea of the 75 because I do the occasional 1-1/2" composite. It's very dense. My brother caught wind of me possibly buying the 75 and he's bugging me about selling him my Makita. He knows I would give it to him cheap. Although I think it might be best to keep both.


How often do you use it? As in, on a deck job, the bulk of what your cutting is trimming deck boards right? With breaking down ply you're picking it up and setting it down an awful lot. But if composite is a big load on the saw, (haven't had the chance yet to use mine on a deck) then maybe it'd be better to have the 75. Seems like doing decks the depth of cut could also come into play more for you than for me with more interior stuff.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Xtrememtnbiker said:


> How often do you use it? As in, on a deck job, the bulk of what your cutting is trimming deck boards right? With breaking down ply you're picking it up and setting it down an awful lot. But if composite is a big load on the saw, (haven't had the chance yet to use mine on a deck) then maybe it'd be better to have the 75. Seems like doing decks the depth of cut could also come into play more for you than for me with more interior stuff.


Yes I Believe your right. I do cut sheet material occasionally, but not too often. The only reason I would even sell the Makita is to help my brother, otherwise I have no problem keeping it.


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## Directfinish (Feb 3, 2012)

Californiadecks said:


> Yes I Believe your right. I do cut sheet material occasionally, but not too often. The only reason I would even sell the Makita is to help my brother, otherwise I have no problem keeping it.


All this festool talk 

I setup everything to buy a makita just waiting for the tax free weekend and H.D. Has it online I got a 100 off gift card


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Mike,

Don't sell your Makita, it will still be your go to saw. I use the 55 at least 95% of the time. If I was trimming a composite deck, I'd use the 55 over the 75.

Tom


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## Gary H (Dec 10, 2008)

Californiadecks said:


> I was wondering about this, doesn't look like the parallel guides will work with it.


They work I got the makita tracks and the fest tool parallel guides and snug fit but it works


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Was I suppose to get the 55 rail with the holes in it or the one without the holes? Which one was suppose to come with the saw?


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## jlsconstruction (Apr 26, 2011)

Californiadecks said:


> Was I suppose to get the 55 rail with the holes in it or the one without the holes? Which one was suppose to come with the saw?


Without holes comes with it if you buy a kit


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## DaVinciRemodel (Oct 7, 2009)

mike d. said:


> I have the ts55. I find it better to cut a 3'' filler with a table saw. I dont use it to much but it seems that it works best if the material is bigger than the track...Am I wrong???


I think your question got cut off :laughing: You can do small boards – if you have a second board the same thickness as your cutting. Place the second board under the track on the outer edge (non-cut edge) of the track and it will stabilize the track.

I think Tom posted a video where he demonstrated cutting 2-1/4” flooring. Tom might be able to post a link.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I have one of each. When I purchased the second rail I got one with holes by accident. I dont know if it cost more or not and the only purpose I believe is for router stops. Im sure Tom will know exactly what else its capable of.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Tom M said:


> I have one of each. When I purchased the second rail I got one with holes by accident. I dont know if it cost more or not and the only purpose I believe is for router stops. Im sure Tom will know exactly what else its capable of.


I just don't want to take it if my lumberyard made a mistake. I don't want to do that to my sales rep. He went home for the day is why I'm asking on here.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Californiadecks said:


> I just don't want to take it if my lumberyard made a mistake. I don't want to do that to my sales rep. He went home for the day is why I'm asking on here.


Maybe a few bucks more, like 10 I think. 

The holy rail is for the lr 32 shelf pin hole system.


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## wnc viking (Aug 4, 2011)

I have been looking at trac saws I like the price of the makita better but I have had bad luck with makita .I don't know if I am the unlucky one and get a lemon any time I buy makita or if there tools are just crap.


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

Mike, the solid rail is what normally comes with the saw. Now that the LR-32 rail is the same price a lot of dealers are just sending the LR 32 rail. 

When I bought my TS-75 I had Tom send me the 90" LR rail instead of the 75" solid rail which I already had. I recall about $30.00 to make the swap. 

Tom


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

mike d. said:


> I have the ts55. I find it better to cut a 3'' filler with a table saw. I dont use it to much but it seems that it works best if the material is bigger than the track...Am I wrong???





DaVinciRemodel said:


> I think your question got cut off :laughing: You can do small boards – if you have a second board the same thickness as your cutting. Place the second board under the track on the outer edge (non-cut edge) of the track and it will stabilize the track.
> 
> I think Tom posted a video where he demonstrated cutting 2-1/4” flooring. Tom might be able to post a link.


http://youtu.be/E3wovWUO61Y

Tom


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

Is ANYONE using the Triton track saw?
It's currently on sale at my local tool store for ....tree fiddy:laughing:, with a 59" track.
I've been looking to get a track saw for some time now, and this seems like a decent deal; but I'd like to get some feedback from some other users on how comparable it would be to the Makita.


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## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

I would pay the extra fiddy and get the Makita.


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

asevereid said:


> Is ANYONE using the Triton track saw?
> It's currently on sale at my local tool store for ....tree fiddy:laughing:, with a 59" track.
> I've been looking to get a track saw for some time now, and this seems like a decent deal; but I'd like to get some feedback from some other users on how comparable it would be to the Makita.


dont do it!!!!!!


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## asevereid (Jan 30, 2012)

duburban said:


> dont do it!!!!!!


Have you tried it?


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## duburban (Apr 10, 2008)

asevereid said:


> Have you tried it?


I have not. I do own a ts75 and ts55 and would buy a makita if i ran a crew. Theres a well established set of accessories that interchange nicely between the festool and makita systems. 

For not much savings I don't see the point in landing something so far from what is known to work. 

Give us a tour if you buy it!


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