# cutting dimensional shingles.



## K2 (Jul 8, 2005)

It's been a while but the last time i cut heavy dimensionals I used a hook knife and some big tin snips because it was cold. I heard they made a saw blade for them. Any suggestions. I have about 5 sq to put on a shed . Thanks. K2


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## jamesfl (Sep 4, 2007)

Sharp hook blade works fine here in florida. I've never seen a special tool for that.

James


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## K2 (Jul 8, 2005)

jamesfl said:


> Sharp hook blade works fine here in florida. I've never seen a special tool for that.
> 
> James


Thanks James. I'll go with the hook blade then. It's not too cold yet.


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## reveivl (May 29, 2005)

I use hooks or snips, they make a shear for them, but can't imagine it would be worth it for 5 sq.

Had a curved rake once, I let them hang out a couple inches and then cut with a skilsaw. Worked fine.


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## Ed the Roofer (Dec 12, 2006)

Certainteed also sells an air powered saw for cutting shingles, but I would go with the normal hook blades for something so small.

Ed


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## K2 (Jul 8, 2005)

Hook blade is working great. I guess the last time I did it it was 10 degrees... I think this will be the very last time I do it. Thanks for the help.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Use snips if you want a straight edge in hot or cold weather. Unless you like busting your knuckles.


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## Tom R (Jun 1, 2004)

Hook blade works fine, - - although when I have repetitive or even random cuts (like for lay-out) I use an an old tile cutter, - - it's like a heavy duty version of a paper-cutter, - - you just push the ole' handle down.


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## MJW (Jan 27, 2006)

What is this.....the DIY channel? I've never used a hook blade for edges. Cut the shingles as you go with a staright blade. Around pipes and vents, yes I use a hook blade.


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## PA woodbutcher (Mar 29, 2007)

*Shingle shear*

I run a starter shingle up the rake, measure and cut them as I work up the roof. I use a Shingle shear that resembles the old paper cutters we used to use in school. Cost me $300 so I don't think I would run out and buy one for a shed roof, but it also has a tape on it so it's only a matter of slapping the shingle on it pull down on the handle and I have a nice square cut shingle that fits


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## RooferJim (Mar 6, 2006)

The Sheffield hookblades made in UK are the best and last three times as long as any other hook blade. We buy them in bulk. also tin snips or a shingle cutter are good for the supper heavy weight shingles.

RooferJim


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## tekwrytr (Sep 11, 2007)

RooferJim said:


> The Sheffield hookblades made in UK are the best and last three times as long as any other hook blade. We buy them in bulk. also tin snips or a shingle cutter are good for the supper heavy weight shingles.
> 
> RooferJim


Agreed. For those who favor individuality and custom tools, try a Plumb wood shingle hatchet (not the awful club used for asphalt), cut off the heel, drill a couple of holes to hold the Sheffield blades (one for center, another directly below it to hold the blade at a slight angle back toward the handle), and you will have a hatchet that most roofers can only dream about.

If you are less intrigued by custom tools, an AJC hatchet with a straight blade works reasonably well for trimming rakes. However, when it comes to trimming open valleys, the Sheffield blade--especially mounted on a hatchet--is a joy to work with.

When using a nail gun, why would anyone care about a blade on a hatchet? Because we typically use guns for full-shingle runs, with another roofer doing the trim and detail work. It is the same principle as building leads in masonry; the higher-skilled masons build the corners, the lesser-skilled masons fill in the courses between. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment a little. It will be worth the effort.
tekwrytr


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## jrroofing (Oct 6, 2007)

Snips? Skillsaws? Air powered saws? C'mon guys.... you know your father's would laugh at you. 

Why dont you just use a hook blade? All it takes is a little practice... I've cut 3 dimensional shingles in 10 degree weather all day and not lost one bit of skin on my knuckles. 

You just score them first with your hookblade, cutting from the top... then after the nail line, if its in the tooth, you just cut the top layer first, then come back and follow the same line to cut the shingle in two.

Real easy.


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## jrroofing (Oct 6, 2007)

Btw, I also run a starter up the edges, gives me a kind of a guideline for cutting, even if the house isn't square.

The problem I see with you guys talking about just dropping the handle is this...

If it makes a perfect cut every time, what will you do if your house or whatever is totally out of square... say you are doing a reroof for some old lady and her husband who couldn't read built it back in '29 or something.


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## dougger222 (Jan 29, 2004)

In high school the shop teacher said to turn the shingles upside down and cut with a straight blade knife. Have yet to see a roofer do this in the "real world". What your shop teacher teaches you in high school and what goes on in the real work are two different things. Since the teacher knew I was in a family of reputable roofers he asked me what I thought. At the age of 17 told him this, "My family does roofing for a living, we don't use a square and a flat blade for laying shingles. Your idea looks great in this nice and warm shop were in but out there your way would be laughed at.

Never wasted a pair of tin snips on a shingle. Always thought snips were for metal and hooked blades for shingles.

Of the hundreds and hundreds of roofs I've done in the past 10 years all have had "bleeders" run up the rakes. When looking up from the ground it's the best finished look, IMO.


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## MJW (Jan 27, 2006)

Your shop teacher was right. IMO

Hanging them over and cutting with a hook blade later is a waste of time and a waste of shingles. If you are shingling correctly in a stair step pattern, you should cut as you go to use the scraps. This can save you how much on shingles, clean up, and time. Think of the money you are throwing away.


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## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

If it's real cold and you just gotta be out there doing it,there is another way of cutting these heavy shingles with very little effort,
I'm not sure they make them any more,so it may be hard to find,but well worth the effort if you do a lot of cold weather roofing.
It' an old asbestos siding cutter that looks like a big paper cutter.It's heavy and awkward,but if you want to cut all your starters ahead of time,set it on a roof plank nearby ,and with one push of the handle your done.
Look at tag or garage sales .I found mine at the local landfill, oiled it up ,and it works great.


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## Ed the Roofer (Dec 12, 2006)

This particular model is called the "Shingle Shark".

Ed


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## oldfrt (Oct 10, 2007)

That baby looks a lot more stable than the old siding cutters!Good job Ed.
That'll surely save a few knuckle burns!


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## dougger222 (Jan 29, 2004)

MJW said:


> Your shop teacher was right. IMO
> 
> Hanging them over and cutting with a hook blade later is a waste of time and a waste of shingles. If you are shingling correctly in a stair step pattern, you should cut as you go to use the scraps. This can save you how much on shingles, clean up, and time. Think of the money you are throwing away.



When running laminates I cut as I go but most don't. My father cuts and uses as he goes and does the same for the other end (gable or hip). His waste is next to nothing.

When running a section to the right nothing is faster than chaulking a line and pulling out the hook blade, IMO. On most rakes I like to cut the bottom half seperate than the top half in case the rake is out of whack. On really long runs I may chaulk and cut three or four different times.

All the time spent flipping over a shingle is a waste, IMO.


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