# Tips And Tricks.....



## rrk (Apr 22, 2012)

rselectric1 said:


> That gets rid of a lot of it, but NOT all of it.:no:


the way he does it it all goes out, he has been doing it for 40 years


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Given I'm the last one in the walls before they're filled in by Itchy and Scratchy, I'm in the habit of photographing every wall and ceiling on the project. Sure helps months down the road when no one can remember exactly where something was.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

MarkJames said:


> That's great for open floor plan situations. The electrician on our addition did something like that, except he just wrote on the sheathing and folded it in tight.


Can’t do that here, all the pigtails have to be done before rough-in inspection.


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## Flash II (Jul 18, 2016)

Trying to turn off a circuit for a room, and the panel isn't clearly labled? Plug / run a vaccum cleaner. Youll know when you found the right circuit. 

I know of another, but that's a "do as I say" thing.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

I have a dedicated "black water" shop vac. :blink:

I hate pulling a WC with even a little water in it.

Works great for pulling a WC that's clogged, too. 





Unchaining the skid steer/mini ex: When I'm in a hurry :blink: I'll just undo the rear binder, hop on the machine, back up a few inches, and un-hook the front binder without ratcheting it out.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

fred54 said:


> no one seems to like this tip but I swear by it. I have a dedicated bucket vac that I only use for toilets. A rag hangs over the exhaust so no vapor plume.
> 
> 
> 
> Anytime I pull a toilet I vac out the tank then the bowl. Makes life so much easier. No mess no drips.


I had a drain that wouldn't get unclogged. Snaked it, didn't work. He loaned me his power snake. Still wasn't working.

He told me take my shop vac and hook to the drain and just suck it out. Man, hard to believe the drain worked at all considering the amount of gunk that came out.

That vac immediacy became my black water vac. It still sits lonely and abandoned until needed.

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## onmywayup (Aug 18, 2012)

VinylHanger said:


> I had a drain that wouldn't get unclogged. Snaked it, didn't work. He loaned me his power snake. Still wasn't working.
> 
> He told me take my shop vac and hook to the drain and just suck it out. Man, hard to believe the drain worked at all considering the amount of gunk that came out.
> 
> ...


I've been doing that for years. You close other drains in the room to increase suction, and I wrap a rubber glove around the intersection of the vac hose and the drain you're cleaning. Increases suction. Amazing how far down a drain line you can suck junk out of. 

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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Speaking of drains, and maybe this is commonly known....

I clear lots of lavatory sink drains for tenants and family, and rarely do I drop the P-trap. I reach into the cabinet and unscrew the pop-up lever arm from the tailpiece, then 1/4" hand auger from above. Fast and easy. (Just remember to reinstall the pop-up lever.)


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## tjbnwi (Feb 24, 2009)

MarkJames said:


> Speaking of drains, and maybe this is commonly known....
> 
> I clear lots of lavatory sink drains for tenants and family, and rarely do I drop the P-trap. I reach into the cabinet and unscrew the pop-up lever arm from the tailpiece, then 1/4" hand auger from above. Fast and easy. (Just remember to reinstall the pop-up lever.)


Just make sure the cable didn't punch through the trap....

Tom


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## rescraft (Nov 28, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Waste of time. The location of the box alone should tell you what it supplies. A black and a white? You need a receptacle. A stripped black and a stripped white? You need a GFCI. Two blacks and two whites? You need a GFCI.... the stripped black and white are the line, the unstripped are the load. Two blacks? You need a switch. Three blacks (or black/black/red or black/white/red)? You need a 3-way, the one wrapped around the other two is the common. 4 wires? You need a 4-way.
> 
> 
> If I have multiple devices in the multi-gang box, each 'gang' area has the wires for that device already marked as such and neatly folded into that area. So if I have a black/white 12, a black/black 14 and a black/white/red 14, I know I need a recep, a SP switch and a 3way. I don't need to know the recep is Line-Load GRCI protected, the SP is for the deck light and the 3-way is for the kitchen light. That was all decided before I started banging on boxes.
> ...


That works great if the guy roping is the guy doing make ups. A lot of times they are two different people, and sometimes weeks/months pass between roping and make up.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

rescraft said:


> That works great if the guy roping is the guy doing make ups. A lot of times they are two different people, and sometimes weeks/months pass between roping and make up.


You should be making up at rough. Bang on boxes, drill holes, pull NM, make everything up.

You're spending _way too much time_ marking every cable in every box. Time better spent just making the damned thing up. And the time it takes someone months later to 'figure out' how to make up a box.... say, a 4-gang with 3 different circuits in it. If it was already made up at rough, there's NO guesswork, NO reading labels, NO re-engineering what has already been engineered before.

Yeah, I know... the builder wants everything done yesterday, so it's convenient to just rope and beat feet outta there so the rockers can start in. But why is it electricians are always expected to make _every other trade's_ job go quicker and easier? If you can't take 4-6 hours to make up your rough-in before the insulators come in, you're not very fast to begin with.

Maybe it's because you spent too much time cutting NM sheaths and pulling Sharpies out of your pocket all day. :whistling


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Doing a bunch of network cable home runs I'll color code and possibly label. Not something I'd do on electric


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## Golden view (Feb 16, 2012)

480sparky said:


> You should be making up at rough. Bang on boxes, drill holes, pull NM, make everything up.
> 
> You're spending _way too much time_ marking every cable in every box. Time better spent just making the damned thing up. And the time it takes someone months later to 'figure out' how to make up a box.... say, a 4-gang with 3 different circuits in it. If it was already made up at rough, there's NO guesswork, NO reading labels, NO re-engineering what has already been engineered before.
> 
> ...


Lucky for my sparkies everything must be made up before inspection. Don't worry, I still want everything done yesterday!


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Golden view said:


> Lucky for my sparkies everything must be made up before inspection. Don't worry, I still want everything done yesterday!


Of course you want it done yesterday. If you wanted it done by tomorrow, you'd call me tomorrow! :laughing:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

I don't know if it's a trick or not, but it's nice to put extra blocking in for certain stuff, like shower doors and tp holders, etc. 

Not a bad idea to nail 2x4 scraps to the door framing so the switches won't be too close to the casings. I hate switches close to them..or even touching.


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## griz (Nov 26, 2009)

MarkJames said:


> I don't know if it's a trick or not, but it's nice to put extra blocking in for certain stuff, like shower doors and tp holders, etc.
> 
> Not a bad idea to nail 2x4 scraps to the door framing so the switches won't be too close to the casings. I hate switches close to them..or even touching.


SOP in high end work...


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Here's a trick to address complaints of a mystery foul odor a bathroom.

Before you start thinking about the toilet's wax seal, try pouring a splash of bleach down the lavy sink and let it sit for a bit without rinsing. (It neutralizes the goop above the trap, where it accumulates at the bottom of the sink overflow.)


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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

MarkJames said:


> Here's a trick to address complaints of a mystery foul odor a bathroom.
> 
> 
> 
> Before you start thinking about the toilet's wax seal, try pouring a splash of bleach down the lavy sink and let it sit for a bit without rinsing. (It neutralizes the goop above the trap, where it accumulates at the bottom of the sink overflow.)




Refill the trap in the floor drain or shower drain in a little used basement bathroom. 

It eliminates the odor. If you use water, that is.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

MarkJames said:


> I don't know if it's a trick or not, but it's nice to put extra blocking in for certain stuff, like shower doors and tp holders, etc.
> 
> Not a bad idea to nail 2x4 scraps to the door framing so the switches won't be too close to the casings. I hate switches close to them..or even touching.


Me or my electrician always block out switches at doors and in corners. I prefer to do it myself because if the electrician does it you can guarantee a hump in the drywall. 

When I do it I rip 1/4” of the blocking to keep it just inside the edges of the studs.


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## sparehair (Nov 21, 2008)

If you tell people the truth and offer good value you will sell more work and make more money in the long run.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Big Johnson said:


> Me or my electrician always block out switches at doors and in corners. I prefer to do it myself because if the electrician does it you can guarantee a hump in the drywall.
> 
> When I do it I rip 1/4” of the blocking to keep it just inside the edges of the studs.



Anyone who is not capable of banging on a scrap 2x and not get the two faces lined up should not be allowed to so much as even l_ook_ at a hammer. :001_unsure:


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

480sparky said:


> Anyone who is not capable of banging on a scrap 2x and not get the two faces lined up should not be allowed to so much as even l_ook_ at a hammer. :001_unsure:


It requires more finesse when one is banging nails with lineman pliers.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Regardless of how much purple primer and cement you need for the job, have at least one can of each extra.

Because no matter how careful you are, you're going to kick your last can into the trench 3 joints before you're done. :blink:  :wallbash:


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

MarkJames said:


> It requires more finesse when one is banging nails with lineman pliers.


If, by 'finesse', you mean 8 more seconds, then yeah... I guess it takes more of it.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

480sparky said:


> Anyone who is not capable of banging on a scrap 2x and not get the two faces lined up should not be allowed to so much as even l_ook_ at a hammer. :001_unsure:


Some 2x4’s are thicker than others. You’ve clearly been electrocuted too many times to know that. Or you’re just stupid.


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## jproffer (Feb 19, 2005)

Big Johnson said:


> Some 2x4’s are thicker than others. You’ve clearly been electrocuted too many times to know that. Or you’re just stupid.


:blink:

You only get electrocuted once. He may have been shocked too many times.

But you're right...some 2x4s are 1/64" thicker than others.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

I've seen 2x4s 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" thick. Depends on how green they are.


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

jproffer said:


> :blink:
> 
> You only get electrocuted once. He may have been shocked too many times.
> 
> But you're right...some 2x4s are 1/64" thicker than others.


e·lec·tro·cute
/əˈlektrəˌkyo͞ot/
Learn to pronounce
verb
past tense: electrocuted; past participle: electrocuted
injure or kill someone by electric shock.
"a man was electrocuted when he switched on the Christmas tree lights"


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## Big Johnson (Jun 2, 2017)

Leo G said:


> I've seen 2x4s 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" thick. Depends on how green they are.


1-5/8 X 3-3/4 all the time. Way quicker to pick up a 2x4 and buzz a little off than it is to search around for the “right piece”.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Leo G said:


> I've seen 2x4s 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" thick. Depends on how green they are.


Also depends on what mill they come out of. Some mills run larger.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

I've had lumber from the same units be 1/8 different. Always fun.

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## Adamthebuilder (Apr 14, 2016)

I have a file folder for each current job in Dropbox. For each one I have folders labeled, Documents, Plans, Trades, Estimates and Photos. Transfer all your photos in this folder. When you are looking for a particular photo, you know what Job it belongs to and you can find it easily.


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## jproffer (Feb 19, 2005)

Big Johnson said:


> e·lec·tro·cute
> /əˈlektrəˌkyo͞ot/
> Learn to pronounce
> verb
> ...





> Does electrocuted mean death?
> 
> Many people use electrocution vs shock interchangeably. But the difference between an electrocution and an injury from an electrical shock is literally a matter of life and death. ... An electrocution means that a person has died as a result of an electricity.


It all depends on what Google hit you choose and how you were taught. I was taught this....which is a BIG difference.


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

But it doesn't mean they stayed dead. Electrocution and then revived is electrocuted.


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## wallmaxx (Jun 18, 2007)

hdavis said:


> Also depends on what mill they come out of. Some mills run larger.


That's what she said.


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## jproffer (Feb 19, 2005)

Leo G said:


> But it doesn't mean they stayed dead. Electrocution and then revived is electrocuted.


Ok then. :thumbsup:


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## Stunt Carpenter (Dec 31, 2011)

If you need to dowel something together a kreg shelf pin gig makes a great dowel guild also


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## Jaws (Dec 20, 2010)

Truck Ass Wisdom of the Week 

1) if you see someone about to actually ask you to do something text someone to call you. Then rush off for an "important meeting"

2) carry no tools. Your already set wearing the house shoes but if your wearing nice boots and have no tools you can be like "what do you want me to do, I'm standing here flatfooted. I got a pocket knife and a phone "

3) make sure always look at your calendar in your phone when someone asks to set a meeting, and shake your head and grumble a bit and say I can make thrusday at 2 work. I'll move some stuff around . Even if the calendar is empty

4) always show up after 9, that way you dont have to buy them a $5 cup of coffee too

5) 330 happy hour meetings are "networking" and if it becomes necessary to explain where you are at then say you have a "function" to attend

6) make sure to set your lunch appointment early as your other truck ass buddies will already have scheduled their lunch with someone. 2 hours is a lot of time to fill by yourself

7) it will seem weird but wear dark sunglasses so they cant see your eyes and stand behind people while they are working and smoke a cigar. This will make the snowflakes hate you, which is ok because it creates solidarity and teamwork amongst them and that is what creates productivity.

The older experienced hands will recognize your infinite wisdom of the "big picture" and appreciate your paying attention to their work. Always give atleast one example of how they could do their job "better" or more (efficient).

I'm full of all kinds of good leadership strategies like that

8) never miss an opportunity to say "when I was doing the work" or " when I did your job" I did it this way or this is how it was. It is important for their overall job security and satisfaction to understand you "get it" and are truly a wealth of knowledge and experience

Also always tell stories from your time in the trades. They love to hear about how competent their leaders are

9) when a sub gives you a price even if it's really low be sure to say how high it is and that he is trying to screw you around. Even when you give it to him make sure to say how it's because you like his work so much and because of his loyalty to your ever changing (volitlie) schedule

10) always schedule times to talk about discrepancies in payments to subs (like when you hold 10k for punch) for around 5 on friday. So if you do have to pay them more money they cant cash until Monday

Holler if you need some more advice hoss


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Jaws said:


> Truck Ass Wisdom of the Week
> 
> 1) if you see someone about to actually ask you to do something text someone to call you. Then rush off for an "important meeting"
> 
> ...


:laughing:

"How To Be A Big-Timer".




:lol:


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## Leo G (May 12, 2005)

Sounds like a recipe to get yourself shot :laughing:


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Sort of. 

I just make sure the studs are square, and then it comes out fine.


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## Mordekyle (May 20, 2014)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> Here’s my box-setting jig.
> 
> It holds the box at the right height and depth at the same time.
> 
> ...


Well, that would have been useful two months ago!

Nice.


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## nickko (Nov 11, 2012)

i use one of those big zip ties that HVAC guys use for flex duct to wrap my shim bundles. As i remove shims i just pull the zip tie tighter. when I'm done with the shim bundle i just use the point of my knife to pry back the tab on the zip tie and pull it out and put it on the next bundle. Those zip ties are about two feet long so i cut it to a good length after i wrap it around a bundle.

Nicko


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Don’t know how you other sparkles do it, but for exterior receptacles where there is no room to nail on a box and you need to extend it out past the siding, I love these boxes form Arlington. F101 is what they call them.


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## nickko (Nov 11, 2012)

I read once on this forum that you weren’t allowed to put a screw on the inside of a box into a stud. I have done it many times but ever since I read that awhile back I always think about it when I need to do it. Don’t know if it’s true or not.


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Electrical code is strict, and it requires many things, including “device boxes” to be “listed” for the purpose.

So you can’t get a standard blue Carlin box, pull the nails, and blow a couple drywall screws though the side into a stud.

But those boxes perfectly fine. I use them all the time.


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## nickko (Nov 11, 2012)

Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:


> Electrical code is strict, and it requires many things, including “device boxes” to be “listed” for the purpose.
> 
> So you can’t get a standard blue Carlin box, pull the nails, and blow a couple drywall screws though the side into a stud.
> 
> But those boxes perfectly fine. I use them all the time.


Thanks for clarifying 

nicko


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Diablo whole saws take the Bosch mandrels, but not Milwaukee. 👍


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

I remember working for a commercial electrical company and the UL sticker had been scraped off a transformer. Inspector wouldn't pass it. Had to order a sticker from the manufacturer.


Mike.
*___*


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## Stunt Carpenter (Dec 31, 2011)

Calidecks said:


> I remember working for a commercial electrical company and the UL sticker had been scraped off a transformer. Inspector wouldn't pass it. Had to order a sticker from the manufacturer.
> 
> 
> Mike.
> *___*


I had an inspector make us scrape the homebuilder electrical company’s sticker off a panel before he would pass the basement development


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