# Will this cord work?



## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

The Machine is a big floor sander which runs on 220. The stove in the home is electric and connects to a 10-50 receptacle and I would like to get my power there. I replaced both plugs on the extension cord and would like to know if it appears I proceeded correctly, or perhaps my creation is unusable for one reason or another.

** I have edited the original image to show the green wire going to the flat blade, white and black at the angles. Thanks, Plumber Bill, for pointing out the original configuration may have been, uh, a little unsafe. 

If it helps, the sander's stats are: 
Motor type .....single-phase AC motor; Voltage .....230 V; Frequency .....50 Hz; Output .....2.2 kW; Fusing .....16 A; Insulation class .....B; Protection rating .....IP 54; Starting capacitor .....60 μF; Operating capacitor .....40 μF.

I have very little electrical knowledge. I hope someone here can take a look and give a helpful comment.
Thanks.


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Not a sparky here, but you need to reverse the green (grnd) and the white (hot). Check both the male and the female ends to make certain the green wire is in the middle. 

Just 2 cents from an insomniac. Since this is electrical and I am no sparky, let one of the sparkies confirm the wiring configuration and comment on the rated amperage of the sander and the stove circuit. The difference in the rated amperage of the stove circuit and the rated amperage of the sander may make a difference in the protection provided to the sander and *you*.


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## Plumber_Bill (Jul 23, 2009)

Before you plug that in. Make sure your insurance is paid.

Get ready for the sound "POW"

Reference the angle plug photo (photo now revised edited) 10/10/2009


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

I have to question running the 50hz motor at 60 hz. All motors are not made the same, & some can run on both 50, & 60 hz, but you might want to verify the motors ability to run on 60hz. Green is pretty much always ground, & needs top be on straight lug. Black, & white are two hot leads to angle lugs. 

You might want to make up a fuse box to protect your motor. Running a 16amp motor on a 50 amp breaker, & small wire, is not a good practice.
Joe


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Boman, thanks for the useful reply. I had already been planning to get a sparky to check this all out in person, so the responses I'm getting confirm thats a great idea.



boman47k said:


> ...Check both the male and the female ends to make certain the green wire is in the middle...


I looked again at the instructions I followed to wire the plug. It clearly shows the white wire going to the middle, BUT! it shows black and RED to the side blades. :laughing: This is why I am asking for a pro to check all of this out beforehand. A novice :whistling might deduce that when they say black-white-red, it must be the same as black-white-green. D'oh! 



boman47k said:


> ...let one of the sparkies confirm the wiring configuration...may make a difference in the protection provided to the sander and *you*.


Exactly the kind of opinion I am seeking: useful. :thumbsup:


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Plumber_Bill said:


> ...Before you plug that in. Make sure your insurance is paid...


Hah! I sent my helper to plug it in an hour ago. Damn him! what is this black smear on the kitchen floor??

Thanks, Plumber Bill :thumbsup:


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Railman said:


> I have to question running the 50hz motor at 60 hz. All motors are not made the same, & some can run on both 50, & 60 hz, but you might want to verify the motors ability to run on 50hz....You might want to make up a fuse box to protect your motor. Running a 16amp motor on a 50 amp breaker, & small wire, is not a good practice.
> Joe


Point taken. As I said, I know little about electricity, so such a consideration is duly noted. Thanks for the thoughtful response.


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

*Et tu Brute*

Everyones a comedian.
My wife suggested I should bring along the following tool:


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Railman said:


> ...You might want to make up a fuse box to protect your motor....





boman47k said:


> ...The difference in the rated amperage of the stove circuit and the rated amperage of the sander may make a difference in the protection provided to the sander and *you*...


Thanks for the feedback. Have a look at the final solution. I used it today and it worked like a charm.


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## TxElectrician (May 21, 2008)

I am sure it "works" but it appears you are only protecting one conductor. Isn't that a single pole breaker?


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## rselectric1 (Sep 20, 2009)

Good eye TX-I sometimes don't notice the obvious things


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

Speaking of wire colors, is that extention rated for 220/240? When I think of black, white and green, I think 110, hot, nuetral, and ground.


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## Darwin (Apr 7, 2009)

TopFloor said:


> Everyones a comedian.
> My wife suggested I should bring along the following tool:


Only thing that will happen is the electrical current will flow up that grabber a zing you!


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

TxElectrician said:


> I am sure it "works" but it appears you are only protecting one conductor. Isn't that a single pole breaker?


Thanks for your observation TxElectrician. I will contact the Electrician who set me up with this item and pose this question to him. I started this thread because I desire safety, so a response like yours is much appreciated. I will post the electrician's reply.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

TxElectrician said:


> I am sure it "works" but it appears you are only protecting one conductor. Isn't that a single pole breaker?


I see the same thing.



boman47k said:


> Speaking of wire colors, is that extention rated for 220/240? When I think of black, white and green, I think 110, hot, nuetral, and ground.


Electricity is many things, including color-blind. It doesn't care what color the insulation is. That's why you can use the white as a hot as long as it's re-identified.


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## TxElectrician (May 21, 2008)

TopFloor said:


> Thanks for your observation TxElectrician. I will contact the Electrician who set me up with this item and pose this question to him. I started this thread because I desire safety, so a response like yours is much appreciated. I will post the electrician's reply.


 
As long as you're going for safety, go ahead and install a connector on the cable as well. :thumbsup:


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## rselectric1 (Sep 20, 2009)

I think several of us would like to see a picture of the inside of that box.
Can you post one?


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

What will you do when you come to a house that has a 4-wire dryer line receptacle? 

You might want to have 2 such set ups, one for the 3-wire, and one for the 4-wire.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> What will you do when you come to a house that has a 4-wire dryer line receptacle?
> 
> You might want to have 2 such set ups, one for the 3-wire, and one for the 4-wire.


Or when the dryer is gas, mebbe you should have a 3rd and 4th one for the two range receptacle possibilities.

Oh, wait.... that might be gas, too.:whistling


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> Electricity is many things, including color-blind


Agreed. Same reason the first configuration would work as long as the the configuration was the same on both ends if all three wires were the proper size. Black tape or paint on the white and good to go? Cord looks big enough since it will only be pulling 16 amps, right? How many amps would that sander pull at startup?


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

rselectric1 said:


> ...a picture of the inside of that box...


I can do that:


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

boman47k said:


> ...How many amps would that sander pull at startup?


If it helps, the sander's stats are: 
Motor type .....single-phase AC motor; Voltage .....230 V; Frequency .....50 Hz; Output .....2.2 kW; Fusing .....16 A; Insulation class .....B; Protection rating .....IP 54; Starting capacitor .....60 μF; Operating capacitor .....40 μF.

Here is a link to the OWNERS MANUAL. Pages 31-33 have circuit diagrams.

Thanks, Boman.


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> ...You might want to have 2 such set ups, one for the 3-wire, and one for the 4-wire.





480sparky said:


> .mebbe you should have a 3rd and 4th one for the two range receptacle possibilities...


It probably wouldn't hurt to have one for each of the most common receptacles. Maybe I should just go for the 'box set' and make one for each of these (not) :no:


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

TxElectrician said:


> As long as you're going for safety, go ahead and install a connector on the cable as well. :thumbsup:


I would have thought the ends I have on there were 'connectors'. At the risk of sounding ignorant :whistling Please explain.


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## Metro M & L (Jun 3, 2009)

I always wondered if this critter was worth it?

http://www.americansanders.com/products/accessories/powerbooster.aspx


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Metro M & L said:


> ...I always wondered if this critter was worth it?...


For what its worth:

Title: Power Up- Hook Up Power Safely
Author: Kim M. Wahlgren

_"If you need to correct the voltage, a power booster can be placed in line, but keep in mind that most power boosters only increase or decrease the voltage by 10 percent. Power boosters have other advantages besides correcting voltage: they protect the sanding equipment against power spikes, they have a built-in volt meter, and some give you dedicated 110-volt outlets for your buffers and edgers so you dont trip the breakers in the house. You can buy standard boosters or have power boosters custom-built for your specific needs."_

-from Hardwood Floors Magazine (June/July 2008); pg. 62


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## TxElectrician (May 21, 2008)

TopFloor said:


> I would have thought the ends I have on there were 'connectors'. At the risk of sounding ignorant :whistling Please explain.


 
You are correct in calling the plug and receptacle devices connectors. There should also be a fitting (connector) attached to the disconnect box to secure the cable to the box.

The breaker is indeed a two pole so you're good to go on that!


Good to see someone going through so much effort to get it right. :thumbsup:


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

TopFloor said:


> I would have thought the ends I have on there were 'connectors'. At the risk of sounding ignorant :whistling Please explain.


You need to install one of these on each of the cords entering the box:






 
Also, there was a green screw that came with the box. Install that so the box itself is grounded properly.

My next question is: What size is the cord itself? I'm guessing 12, which would be too small.​


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> My next question is: What size is the cord itself? I'm guessing 12, which would be too small.


__________________

I was wondering the same thing. Don't about volts, b ut 12 is rated for 20 amps, right? That is also the reason I was wondering what kind of amps the sander pulls at startup. I suspect it is more than the 16 amps posted.


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Thank,s 480Sparky. Your knowledge is a huge help.



480sparky said:


> ...You need to install one of these on each of the cords entering the box...


Hah! I _thought_ it was strange for the cord to be just hanging without support, but just used what I had been given to make it. Thanks for the heads-up on that. 
​


480sparky said:


> Also, there was a green screw that came with the box. Install that so the box itself is grounded properly.



The green screw would go where? As the main screw which holds the cover on?



480sparky said:


> My next question is: What size is the cord itself? I'm guessing 12, which would be too small.


The cord is 10/3.​


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

TxElectrician said:


> ...There should also be a fitting (connector) attached to the disconnect box to secure the cable to the box...


Got it! I purchased these pieces from the local electrical supply and I think the staff was giving me the benefit of the doubt. That is, since the connectors are such an obvious necessity, they likely figured I would know to buy them.



TxElectrician said:


> ...Good to see someone going through so much effort to get it right. :thumbsup:


Sure! I have only recently started taking on the sanding and refinishing. I subbed a job to a guy whose cord was cut at the end, the three wires splayed and connected dangerously to the fuse panel. I saw him get zapped disconnecting it! He did good work sanding, but the amateur electrical work overshadowed everything. I want my customers to admire my professionalism, not question it.


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

TxElectrician said:


> You are correct in calling the plug and receptacle devices connectors. There should also be a fitting (connector) attached to the disconnect box to secure the cable to the box.
> 
> The breaker is indeed a two pole so you're good to go on that!
> 
> ...


I agree. I despise when a floor guy comes onto a job and thinks he can do whatever he wants in the electrical panel. As if my insurance and permit will cover their poor judgement. 

I dare to even say it but the OP might be best off using 2 insulated roach clips to attach to both main lugs and another 1 for bonding the circuit breaker enclosure. Kind of like my temporary service for doing upgrades.

picture


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

TopFloor said:


> .............The green screw would go where? As the main screw which holds the cover on?....


 
No. There should have been a bonding screw so the ground wire is bonded to the can itself. Without it, a short circuit to the can will not trip a breaker or fuse, but simply energize the can and create a potential shock hazard. Unless that can is not listed for use as service equipment, which in that small of one it may very well not be.

But you need to properly bond the can to the ground to prevent a potential shock hazard. Ask your sparky for a #10 ground pigtail.


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> ...might be best off using 2 insulated *roach clips* to attach to both main lugs and another 1 for bonding the circuit breaker enclosure. Kind of like my temporary service for doing upgrades.
> picture


Emphasizing that I am electrically challenged, whenever I hear 'roachclip' I always think of:










I checked out your photo link. Thats a nice temporary set-up. Hopefully I will get a skilled electrician to build something 'universal' and teach me how to use it, depending on each situation I may encounter. Thanks for your time in commenting.


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## TopFloor (Apr 21, 2009)

480sparky said:


> ...There should have been a bonding screw so the ground wire is bonded to the can itself....you need to properly bond the can to the ground to prevent a potential shock hazard. Ask your sparky for a #10 ground pigtail....


Got it. I am taking notes, 480, and plan to hit him up with all of these suggestions. When I get his answer I will post it. All your ideas are appreciated.


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## Magnettica (Dec 19, 2006)

TopFloor said:


> Emphasizing that I am electrically challenged, whenever I hear 'roachclip' I always think of:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your set up will be without the meter, obviously, and the reason for overcurrent protection is protect not only your equipment but your customers electrical panel from substantial damage. The reason for the clips is so you won't have to have the right circuit breaker for each panel you come across. It'll be "universal" as they say in the trade. :thumbsup:

Good luck!


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## boman47k (Oct 13, 2006)

> Ask your sparky for a #10 ground pigtail


. 

480, are you talking about running this pigtail off the green grnd wire to the can?


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## Ohmy (Sep 10, 2009)

Nice work. You gotta do something to make your work for efficient. I agree with all posters. I would check on the single pole breaker issue (isn't your machine 240V?) Also, the suggestion for more plugs can be done. You have the basic set-up with the over current protection and the right plug for your machine. Now you can make different adapters for the front of your unit. If you run into a 4 wire dryer you would plug your adapter into the plug and your setup into the adapter. Same with over plugs.


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## 480sparky (Feb 1, 2009)

boman47k said:


> .
> 
> 480, are you talking about running this pigtail off the green grnd wire to the can?


 
Yes. I can't tell from the pix, but it's possible the can isn't grounded.


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