# Aluminum siding repair



## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

My house has 8" aluminum lap siding, some of which is damaged. The previous homeowners had some windows replaced, smaller than the existing, and just patched up the voids with OSB, no siding. I can't find anywhere to buy aluminum siding. I thought about replacing a few courses with fiber cement and using that aluminum to patch. I want to paint the house a specific color, that's why I haven't considered vinyl. Is this a stupid idea?


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Depending on how much fill in you need to do , I would not patch , it is always going to look patched. And would not use FC different size . I would think about some kind of trim board around the windows . Residing would by far be the best answer, but if can't do that need to look at other ways to not look bad. You could always take one wall down for the pieces and put new steel on that one wall too. But again probably is going to stand out being the aluminum is more likely smooth and steel or anything else would be wood grain. 
Good luck hope it all works out for you.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

The reason I thought of using fiber cement is that the 9 1/4" smooth boards will match the aluminum in profile and can be painted. It would be such a pain to weave in siding and find a way to nail it that full replacement would definitely be ideal. At every turn, more costs are making my budget seem less adequate so I'm trying to see where I can avoid spending more.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

need to see a pic


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

This is a picture of one window that was scabbed over with OSB only


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

Do you have any intentions to replace the windows? If so new windows the size of the original opening would be an ideal solution. That is what I done.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

dielectricunion said:


> This is a picture of one window that was scabbed over with OSB only
> 
> View attachment 98570


Looks like a nice mess to have to patch and make look somewhat nice. 

Still think it would be best to find a wall you can pull the needed off of. Short of starting over I would forget about weaving it in. Just cut the fill in pieces so they lap .Nothing right now short of residing it is going to look right. Just have to make it look the best you can for now.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Ohio painter said:


> Do you have any intentions to replace the windows? If so new windows the size of the original opening would be an ideal solution. That is what I done.


But even that now is not going to come out right being they have made the hole wider where the new window is. Would have to make the whole opening wider and then ther ie the problem of proper flashing.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

This is just one of the messy situations I need to correct at this house. Were living here at least 6 years so I have some time before we might sell or rent it but I'd really like to get these 8 windows in asap to replace old rotten single glazed. I bought my new windows larger but 3 of them will not be tall enough. Other challenge is, I bought new construction windows with a nailing fin because the old frames were beat and were odd sizes that would cost 3x more.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

*re:Aluminun Siding Repair*

Fill it with soffit material,,,vertical


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

There are several problems I see you are facing here. 

The first, is you can't pop metal sidings loose like you can with vinyl. You have to take it off from the top down. So, you're going to have 3/4 of that wall off before you ever get to the bottom of the patch area. Second, when you pull of the old metal siding, you ARE going to bend it in places. Not really much you can do about that, unless you are really, REALLY careful. Third, like Randy mentioned, they've expanded the width of the opening, so you're going to have to reconfigure those anyway, to fit your new windows.

So, IMHO.... you are going to need to replace any you remove anyway. As for finding smooth aluminum, it's available from any professional siding wholesale house. They may not stock it, but it's readily available. You'll need to order it in full cartons (usually 2 squares per carton), but it's easy to get.

I would highly recommend against mixing metal and FC. Even when painted, the surfaces will be different and reflect light differently. I don't care how much paint you use, you will easily be able to see a difference.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

mike d. said:


> Fill it with soffit material,,,vertical


This would not be my first, second, third or ANY choice. :no:

It would look exactly like what it is.... a crappy, hackish, patch job.

I would recommend biting the bullet and doing one whole side at a time as you can afford it.


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Rollex_aluminum_siding_8in

lakelandbuildingsupply

allied building products

I also Believe ABC Supply and Possibly Norandex may have alternatives. 8" in northern Il and Southern WI typically is or matches fairly close to rollex. Not perfect, however if you only need to replace a few panels it is likely doable.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

It looks good as is... I wouldn't touch it :thumbsup: 

But if you want to get siding, most siding distributors don't keep in stock but they can order for you.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

stick an arborvitae in front of it,...that'll help with street view anyway :laughing:

That's a real mess you got there :thumbup:


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

Some guy said I should scrap it and that will pay for my new siding. At maybe 50¢/lb, I'm pretty sure scrap price won't cover it. And then Ill want to take down the brittle asphalt junk that's under that and pay to dump it, replace with house wrap I suppose. No easy way around this one, I like the arborvitae suggestion though, it may become an option. Ha


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

CompleteW&D said:


> There are several problems I see you are facing here.
> 
> The first, is you can't pop metal sidings loose like you can with vinyl. You have to take it off from the top down. So, you're going to have 3/4 of that wall off before you ever get to the bottom of the patch area. Second, when you pull of the old metal siding, you ARE going to bend it in places. Not really much you can do about that, unless you are really, REALLY careful. Third, like Randy mentioned, they've expanded the width of the opening, so you're going to have to reconfigure those anyway, to fit your new windows.
> 
> ...


John I can replace a steel panel in the middle of a wall and you will not know it unless you look really close. Have done it many times. :thumbsup:

Although on one this bad I would just pull and reside so the windows can be installed and flashed right.


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## svronthmve (Aug 3, 2008)

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig!


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

svronthmve said:


> You can put lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig!


But you can make a silk purse out of a sows ear. :laughing:


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

roll of coil and a day..fix you right up:whistling


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

maybe some caulk too..:thumbsup:..i think i have whites..


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Randy Bush said:


> John I can replace a steel panel in the middle of a wall and you will not know it unless you look really close. Have done it many times. :thumbsup:
> 
> Although on one this bad I would just pull and reside so the windows can be installed and flashed right.


Your an expert with metal for sure. I know WE couldn't do a very good job replacing aluminum in the middle of a wall. Maybe steel being stiffer would be easier. But, there isn't a lot of steal around here. 

Other than my own house that is. Back when I first started in the business in 1988, my Mom was in the market for siding on the upper level of her Tri-level (which I now own). The company I worked for only sold vinyl, so I told her to find a company that sold the Alside vinyl clad steel.

She did. And the stuff looks just as good today, as the day it went on the house 25 years ago. Unfortunately, it's a crappy sage green color.  I just can't justify spending the $$$ on new EVERLAST just because I don't happen to care for the color.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

Is the smaller window actually wider than the original or is the brick molding adding the width? is the brick molding overlapping the aluminum siding or did the siding get cut back? I can't tell from the picture. 

If new windows were being considered by the owner then a replacement window would work, (not new construction window) if need be add a 1"x4" trim board to give added width.

As far as custom ordering an oddball size window, there are places that charge by the area of glass not the dimension of the window.

That's my 2 cents worth.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

The short replacement window is wider and has no moulding, just j trim around it's wider dimension. 3 windows I'm replacing are original in plaster walls. There's a good 1.5" of space on both sides of the frame. They're basically floating in the wall, no jack/trimmer stud or header. Anyway I think I'm just going to dive in and replace one, see if I can get the nail fin in and flashing tape, fish in some j trim.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

If I tear off all the aluminum on one side of the house, would it be possible to reside it with fiber cement lap siding? Could I keep my existing aluminum corners and how would I trim around windows?


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

dielectricunion said:


> The short replacement window is wider and has no moulding, just j trim around it's wider dimension. 3 windows I'm replacing are original in plaster walls. There's a good 1.5" of space on both sides of the frame. They're basically floating in the wall, no jack/trimmer stud or header. Anyway I think I'm just going to dive in and replace one, see if I can get the nail fin in and flashing tape, fish in some j trim.


One ideal is when you put in the window with a fin , leave or cut the siding back leaving enough room for a trim piece . If you use a 5/4 trim piece you can just caulk the sides and bottom and a drip cap on top . Or put j trim around the a trim boad over the nail fin. 

Although not ideal when a lot of aluminum sidiing was put on it was just caulked to the window brick mold , was in the days before they really even capped the windows. Not a completely ideal fix by todays standards it will work until you can reside the house.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

dielectricunion said:


> If I tear off all the aluminum on one side of the house, would it be possible to reside it with fiber cement lap siding? Could I keep my existing aluminum corners and how would I trim around windows?


What do you have for cornors now ? if not a cap and base it is a little more set up but it can be done. by cutting the cornors back on the aluminum side to fit the the cap and base design that guys use on FC or use a FC trim board cornor and caulk aluminum like you would be doing for the FC.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

My existing corners are aluminum that create a channel wrapping beneath the siding (nailed to sheathing) and a channel that the siding cut ends sit inside. Sorry, I don't know the proper terms for this corner trim. I figure water runs down the channel and shouldn't allow the siding to sit in water so should work?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

dielectricunion said:


> My existing corners are aluminum that create a channel wrapping beneath the siding (nailed to sheathing) and a channel that the siding cut ends sit inside. Sorry, I don't know the proper terms for this corner trim. I figure water runs down the channel and shouldn't allow the siding to sit in water so should work?


All you need to do, is very carefully cut off one side of your existing outside corner post on the side you are installing the new siding. Remove the old siding. Install a 5/4 trim board to start your new outside corner. It can be 5/4 with a rabbit on the back to cover your siding end cuts, or it can be a 4/4 board with your new siding butting against the new corner board.

Then, when you're ready to do the other side, simply repeat the process with your new corner board over lapping the outside edge of your first one. It won't be the prettiest solution in the short term, but will be just fine once you do the other side.

Here is a rough mock up in MS Paint to help visualize what I'm saying....


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Or, if you're really careful in cutting your existing aluminum outside corner post, you can go ahead and create your overlap with your first outside corner trim board, and then just butt up to it with the second one....


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

CompleteW&D said:


> Or, if you're really careful in cutting your existing aluminum outside corner post, you can go ahead and create your overlap with your first outside corner trim board, and then just butt up to it with the second one....


Nice drawings John,:thumbsup: Lot easier to show in a picture then trying to use words at times.


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

Thanks Randy.... :thumbup:

After reading my post before I hit submit, hell.... I couldn't even understand what I wrote. So, I figured a picture would help.

:laughing:

They're only in MS Paint, but I think they convey my message well enough.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

Impressive! Some nice drawings for MS paint. That helps a lot, I think that's a pretty good temporary solution. Now what should i do about a rain screen/housewrap? Run it as far into corner as I can?


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## CompleteW&D (May 28, 2011)

dielectricunion said:


> Impressive! Some nice drawings for MS paint. That helps a lot, I think that's a pretty good temporary solution. Now what should i do about a rain screen/housewrap? Run it as far into corner as I can?


Sure.... run it corner to corner. As for what kind of house wrap, not meaning to open a can of worms, we really like the RainDrop house wrap from GreenGuard.


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## j_sims (Jul 5, 2007)

dielectricunion said:


> The short replacement window is wider and has no moulding, just j trim around it's wider dimension. 3 windows I'm replacing are original in plaster walls. There's a good 1.5" of space on both sides of the frame. They're basically floating in the wall, no jack/trimmer stud or header. Anyway I think I'm just going to dive in and replace one, see if I can get the nail fin in and flashing tape, fish in some j trim.


That's what I'd do...(unless you just wanted to replace the siding).... seal and trim the windows as best as you can and if it looks like hell...buy shutters and fit up against the window.

I am no siding applicator but... We had to re-install 8" steel siding after replacing a mudsill and rimjoist...it is a biaotch to work with if you don't know what your doing.

Like most, I hate covering stuff up and it may not be optimal but sometimes you have to play with the hand that is dealt you.

another one with "my .02 worth"


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

I just pulled down all the siding on the back of the house. I'm considering skipping the house wrap and leaving the old asphalt that was under the aluminum. The house was horribly maintained and its still in great condition. Any opinions? (I'm on a budget and have lots of other projects... the other 3 sides of house have that asphalt under aluminum and I won't be touching those)


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

Bad picture, but here is what's underneath...not felt tar paper but asphalt and gravel brick pattern.


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Use long nails.


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## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Guessing the stuff it like 3/4 " thick, pretty common stuff years back , sealed a house up very tight and nice. Thinking like 3/4 1 bys under that , which means you have a pretty good base to attach the new siding to. As lond as this stuff is flashed right not sure you will gain a lot with wrap. but that depends on what is normal in your area too. Would use longer nails for the new siding. If replacing windows , would move them out so not so deep in the hole and you are able to side right up to the window. 

Only thing about wrapping is if change windows you will be able to insure water drainage.


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## dielectricunion (Feb 27, 2013)

Half of that exterior wall Id like to rebuild because its cobbled together with short 2x4, shakes when I push on it, and has only random cavities for insulating. Mostly wood thermal bridges, I'd like to insulate properly. I may tear the asphalt down to t&g sheathing, install my windows and wrap in 15 or 30 felt, maybe add furring strips then install the fiber cement lap siding.


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