# best drill bits and sawsall blades?



## besta (Mar 25, 2014)

Yesterday went through several drill bits drill out a 5/16 bolt.
Used up four sawsall blades cutting off one nut.
What brand and tip angle do you guys use for steel?
What brand of sawsall blades do you use for cutting steel?

A few years ago I had some good sawsall blades, once cut a foot in length of 1 inch thick steel using oil to lubricate and only used one blade, and when done it was still usable, don't remember the brand of it though.
Now what I'm purchasing from the big box stores is junk!
Even the big red name "M..." brand does not appear to hold up like they used to, per my ageing memory.

Any input?


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Triumph bits Lennox blades


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

go to your local Fastenal store. tell them what you're doing. they can direct/sell you the proper product for what you want to accomplish.

my experience with Fastenal is....great product and a knowledgable staff


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## mattg2448 (Jan 26, 2015)

My machinist side is coming out...... precision twist drills are the best, for that bolt, just use a general purpose 118 degree drill. Should be spinning around 450-600 rpm, and press in straight and hard. Use lots of lube (tap magic, cutting fluid, machining coolant ect )


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

mattg2448 said:


> My machinist side is coming out...... precision twist drills are the best, for that bolt, just use a general purpose 118 degree drill. Should be spinning around 450-600 rpm, and press in straight and hard. Use lots of lube (tap magic, cutting fluid, machining coolant ect )


i have family and friends in detroit. ever get to the woodward avenue dream cruise? i go every year. sit on the corner of woodward and maple...stay at the townsend.


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## mattg2448 (Jan 26, 2015)

I've never gone to the dream cruise, but I've always wanted to... my truck isn't too fuel efficient so I normally just skip it... My father's company does alot of work for detroit, from Grand prix, to demo restorations so I know the area well


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

dayexco said:


> go to your local Fastenal store. tell them what you're doing. they can direct/sell you the proper product for what you want to accomplish.
> 
> my experience with Fastenal is....great product and a knowledgable staff


I'm in a small town and don't have a lot of choices but we do have a Fastenal store.I always use them for Lennox blades for the sawzall.Some of the new Millwaukee blades like the torch blades are good but still prefer the Lenox.Bought some of the variety 12 packs of the Diablo blades at HD that were on sale.They suk.
Can't help on the bits .I buy bulk at a supply store here and they are not labeled as to brand.


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## trailtoy1993 (Mar 1, 2015)

Hilti blades are the best. I have cut tons of steel, used to like Milwaukee torch blades, but used Hilti a lot now and they are best.


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## craneboy762 (Aug 1, 2015)

Diablo diablo, used on to cut out a dozen floor joists that were in the wrong way. Brace ,cut off a foot of every joist for half the width of the floor, trim the nails, put in new joist the right way and repeat. Every thing came out in little pieces, I wore out before my sawsall blade did.It's still going strong. Cuts nails fast and keeps on going, far better than that bunny with the battery. I now see that they have carbide tipped sawsall blades.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

craneboy762 said:


> Diablo diablo, used on to cut out a dozen floor joists that were in the wrong way. Brace ,cut off a foot of every joist for half the width of the floor, trim the nails, put in new joist the right way and repeat. Every thing came out in little pieces, I wore out before my sawsall blade did.It's still going strong. Cuts nails fast and keeps on going, far better than that bunny with the battery. I now see that they have carbide tipped sawsall blades.


The carbide blades are pretty good, but pricey. My go to sawzall blade brand is Lenox. For wood/nails, the 956R is my go to. I look for them on ebay and can usually score at about $2/blade when I buy 25 or more.


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## CarpenterSFO (Dec 12, 2012)

Warren said:


> ...My go to sawzall blade brand is Lenox.....


Mine also.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

A bit off topic, but sometimes a dremel is the way to go. Keep a cheap set of wheels and bits from harbor freight on hand.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

The best drill bits I've found are the cold fired Cobalt by Ridgid, you really find out quick which blades and bits are the best when drilling a lot of composite. It's heat that's the enemy of bits/blades. My goto sawzall Blade is also Lenox. I too buy them bulk on eBay.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Warren said:


> The carbide blades are pretty good, but pricey. My go to sawzall blade brand is Lenox. For wood/nails, the 956R is my go to. I look for them on ebay and can usually score at about $2/blade when I buy 25 or more.


Bosch makes some bad arse recip blades.


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> The best drill bits I've found are the cold fired Cobalt by Ridgid, you really find out quick which blades and bits are the best when drilling a lot of composite. It's heat that's the enemy of bits/blades. My goto sawzall Blade is also Lenox. I too buy them bulk on eBay.


The guy was asking about steel.

I've basically stopped carrying my Sawzall all together now that I have a portaband, vastly cheaper per cut.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Inner10 said:


> The guy was asking about steel.
> 
> I've basically stopped carrying my Sawzall all together now that I have a portaband, vastly cheaper per cut.


Those Coldfired cobalt bits are for steel.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-5-16-in-Cobalt-Drill-Bit-6761/100392743

And it has a 90 day return


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## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Californiadecks said:


> Those Coldfired cobalt bits are for steel.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-5-16-in-Cobalt-Drill-Bit-6761/100392743


I believe you, buy some triumph bits and let me know which is better.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Inner10 said:


> I believe you, buy some triumph bits and let me know which is better.


I'm interested, I'll check them out.


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## Fouthgeneration (Jan 7, 2014)

A left hand twist bit the same size as you'd use to drill a hole to tap for the bolt, with constant cutting oil/fluid. Buy 2 sets of the common course and fine thread sizes needed before hand of course at a large hardware store. The wore out lefty bits are always good for a shop prank.:jester:

Use a bench top drill press or a portable magnetic. There is a freakin ingenious fence post drilling jig on u-tube for drill ~2"pipes in the feild.

An arc welded stub will often heat and free the broken bolt end...

Nuts use your 4-4.5-5" grinder and thin metal cut off blade(1-2$) ikeep one on my old grinder ready to go, 
again, some times the heat of partial grinding will free the nut for removal.
did you try an impact wrench???:blink:


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## Railman (Jan 19, 2008)

It sounds like you had to drill a fairly hard/high strength bolt, maybe a 6 star, or a325, 425 grade?
We used to drill a lot (probably 3-5 k holes) of cast iron knuckles in our shop. We tried the std m2 hss bits, but as soon as you hit a high carbon (very hard!) area, they were trashed.

Ti-nitried coated ones worked better, but weren't as good when re-sharpened. 

Then we started using a decent cobalt bit. They were much better, mostly due to the high heat they can take without loosing their cutting edge.

We also tried solid carbide, but when they hit the hard stuff, they would just explode!
Here's a good link on various drill bit qualities:
http://www.toolguy.com/titanium-drill-bits.html

I will agree with Inner in that the Triumph brand as being top notch, & still reasonable. Grainger has pretty good price breaks on lot quantities.


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