# cashmere streaking



## aspenpainting (Mar 25, 2006)

i painted a wall 22 ft high with cashmere low lustre. it went on good and i put on plenty of paint.(2 coats)when i went back today the walls looked like it was streaking/flashing when you look down the wall in the sunlight. looked fine from staight on and all the bedrooms with 9 ft cielings looked great. anyone else run in to this? does it sound like somethng an extra coat would fix. color of walls is a beige.thanks for any advice.


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## MAC2PAINTING (Sep 19, 2006)

*Hmmmm*

I'm not getting a clear idea of what the problem is..streaking and flashing are two completely seperate problems...:blink:


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## aspenpainting (Mar 25, 2006)

sorry where the roller was streaking.


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## BMAN (Aug 21, 2006)

I have used a lot of cashmere and I have had some issues before. It is a funny paint as it doesnt cover very well but the end result looks awesome when applied right. What kind of streaks are you talking about? Is it lines like from the edge of the roller build up? if so then it was applied a little too heavy. its is a paint that is designed to level a liitle more than regular paint so if its a littel too heavy it will have a smoother textrue in those heavy areas. 
To get best results with Cashmere you must always cut light then roll light for first coat and then repeat until it covers. its extra work but the look is worth it. make sure you price it accordingly.


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## aspenpainting (Mar 25, 2006)

no its not from the edge buildup its more like you can see where the rollers been up and down the wall but only from the side. i havent ran into a whole lot of smooth walls alot more textured and i used a soft woven 3/8" from sherwin. the light blues. im thinking maybe i shouldve used a better cover and possibly 1/8"?


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

22 foot smooth walls? 2 coats in one day... ya, one more coat should do ya fine.. you most likely ran into a dry to touch but not ready to recoat problem. Moisture is funny in higher areas... whats "dry" at chest level isn't, 18 feet higher.

3/8 should be fine, though i'm telling ya those whizzfab roller covers are worth thier weight in gold, smooth or textured.


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## aspenpainting (Mar 25, 2006)

excellent thanks for the advice. i normally repaint walls at around 2.5 hrs instead of the cans recommended 4 hrs. how long do you guys usally wait? also where do you find those wiizzfab rollers?


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## BMAN (Aug 21, 2006)

Yea it sounds like either the higher paint wasnt dry enough for secod coat or the paint was drying too fast to level proper, like it was over worked a little.


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

I get em at the local smallguy paint store, though he just sold out to PPG, found some at lowes. You'll have to hunt for em in your city. I normally use 3/4 for smooth or textured (with that particular cover).

How long do I wait... depends on the walls, conditions, etc. For your 22 foot smooth finish, i'd wait till tomorrow to do 2nd. Orange peel, i'd wait till after lunch. Colder it gets i'd wait longer, certainly if the HO has the heat on. Id also run a screen across what you have now before the final coat.... by screen I mean a screen sander... on a pole.


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## Danahy (Oct 17, 2006)

I've had this problem before. At first I thought it was the tint not staying uniformily mixed in the can. Turns out its the actual sheen that's not staying consistant. That's why it looks good from every angle except from the side, especially where a light source may be present. 

I managed to get some info from a BM chemist. Turns out that each base of each type of paint is made by different people. Since each one is a different base formula, making the same colour in different sheens & quality sometimes there are gliches. He also told me 3 or 4 different things that were over my head....

I did manage to figure out that no matter how many coats I were to apply I'd keep getting the same result. Changes are necessary. First change the pile to a slightly lower pile, perhaps keep your paint stirred up frequently (just keep a stir stick in the tray). If all else fails I will change the sheen. These changes will get you from a 60% to atleast a solid 80% of improvement. I always wait til the next day to recoat, as I prefer to prep between coats. I find most of the real goodies show thier heads after the first coat is applied.

I've also seen this happen with over nuking (adding water, or too much water).

If all else fails, hang a tarp over all the light sources - Problem solved.

ps - oh and yes, I am aware that this is not a BM product.


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

aspenpainting said:


> i painted a wall 22 ft high with cashmere low lustre. it went on good and i put on plenty of paint.(2 coats)when i went back today the walls looked like it was streaking/flashing when you look down the wall in the sunlight. looked fine from staight on and all the bedrooms with 9 ft cielings looked great. anyone else run in to this? does it sound like somethng an extra coat would fix. color of walls is a beige.thanks for any advice.


high walls- how long were they? 
did you use a 9", 14", or 18" roller? 
were you sure you kept a wet edge? 
you said "plenty of paint"? what's plenty-normal or more than usual?

shoot some answers back...I'll chime in after I know some more:thumbsup:


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## ProWallGuy (Oct 17, 2003)

Danahy said:


> just keep a stir stick in the tray


Do pro painters really still use a tray to paint large surfaces, like a wall or ceiling? I only use a 5/screen set up for those.

Only time you'll see me with a tray is for doors or cabinets. 

Just curious.


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## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

Sounds to me like all you have to do is lay out your paint and roll in the same direction. Don't roll up and down. Your last strokes should be all down or all up.

That 3/8 nap must take a lot of dipping to cover a wall that big, doesn't sound like you're roping, but the opposite, not enough paint.

I still use a 2 gal. tray and plastic liners. Too risky with the bucket and screen, the paint dries on the side of the bucket and gets schmootz on my roller.

Having been a time study a long time ago, the method and motion of dipping into a tray with a long pole is less motion than tipping the pole all the way up into a bucket. With a 22' ceiling, he's probably using a long pole.


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## Danahy (Oct 17, 2006)

ProWallGuy said:


> Do pro painters really still use a tray to paint large surfaces, like a wall or ceiling? I only use a 5/screen set up for those.
> 
> Only time you'll see me with a tray is for doors or cabinets.
> 
> Just curious.


Yepper. A nice deep dish Simms Tray with a clean liner for me. I'd probably only use a 5/screen if I were on something commercial where I was using the same colour, and if it were to tip I'd have ample time to clean up... 

I don't know, maybe not though.

on a side note I have built this little tray out of plywood, just a crack bigger then my simms tray, with a 1x1 border. Installed 4 small soft rubber non skid casters on the bottom for my tray. Works awesome, rolls nicely over carpet, and bunched up tarps, also doubles as a roll along when I'm doing some serious baseboard work, or extensive low cuts. We call this thing road runner.


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## aspenpainting (Mar 25, 2006)

hey guys the wall is about 20' long, yes i used a long pole-i think its 16 ft. extended, stood on a step ladder to reach with an 18" roller. yes with lots and lots of dips into the tray-2 per line. i went in today and the streaks died down a little and the home owner actually loves it shes already put pictures on the wall. as always thanks for all the advice.


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## Danahy (Oct 17, 2006)

aspenpainting said:


> the home owner actually loves it shes already put pictures on the wall. as always thanks for all the advice.


If she loves it, I'd say you've won that battle. Good work.:clap:


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## Brushslingers (Jul 28, 2006)

aspenpainting said:


> hey guys the wall is about 20' long, yes i used a long pole-i think its 16 ft. extended, stood on a step ladder to reach with an 18" roller. yes with lots and lots of dips into the tray-2 per line. i went in today and the streaks died down a little and the home owner actually loves it shes already put pictures on the wall. as always thanks for all the advice.



Yah, sounds like its still drying. Sounds like you are out of the water too!


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## MAC2PAINTING (Sep 19, 2006)

Paintguy26 said:


> high walls- how long were they?
> did you use a 9", 14", or 18" roller?
> were you sure you kept a wet edge?
> you said "plenty of paint"? what's plenty-normal or more than usual?
> ...


NOW I THINK YER GETTIN SOMEWHERE...THIS SEEMS THE MOST LIKELY ANSWER TO ME TOO


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## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

for future reference, that 18" roller with a 3/8 nap is the problem. The roller covers so much horizontal area that the low nap can't get enough paint into the dips. The result is that the roller rides on the edges, leaving you with the "rope" look.


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## Richard (May 21, 2006)

Joewho said:


> for future reference, that 18" roller with a 3/8 nap is the problem. The roller covers so much horizontal area that the low nap can't get enough paint into the dips. The result is that the roller rides on the edges, leaving you with the "rope" look.


Hey Joe...what do you use for real big walls? A 14"? or a 9"? Just curious....


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## Joewho (Sep 20, 2006)

When I was younger I'd use 18's and other rollers bigger than 9, but as time goes on, the lower back can't take it. Now,I just use a 9". Usually a 3/4 unless a finer finish is required, then 1/2 for a high wall. the shorter the wall or the newer the wall, the more likely to use a short nap.

By the way, osha doesn't like the 18" rollers. Those are really floor rollers.


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