# Caulking White Trim



## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

How much do you guys caulk around white trim before final painting? Casing and base?

I have heard of guys running a very thin bead around everything to create a seamless transition. Didn't know if that was normal or not?


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## CrpntrFrk (Oct 25, 2008)

Spencer said:


> I have heard of guys running a very thin bead around everything to create a seamless transition. Didn't know if that was normal or not?


What you describe is what we do.

Every crevice gets caulk.


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## Bearded Wonder (Jan 21, 2011)

Every joint.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Every joint, whether it is white or not. If you don't and there is one tiny bit of open line showing, it looks unfinished.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Dang, looks like I've got my work cut out for me...

Any particular caulk you're using? DAP kwik seal?


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

As nuch as I hate it, I usually caluk all trim to wall intersections. 

I prefer stained work, up and done.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

every joint? really?I don't do that,I try to paint fill as much as possible then caulk if i need to on the final coat.. but you know I can see how it would look more seamless


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Tom Struble said:


> every joint? really?I don't do that,I try to paint fill as much as possible then caulk if i need to on the final coat.. but you know I can see how it would look more seamless


Not every joint, unless a person sucks at trim work.:laughing:

I do wall to trim, I hate doing it, but people always complain about their wavy walls when they want painted trim, never say a word when it is stained. 

That is now why people who want painted trim pay more for it then stained work.


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## camaroman2125 (Apr 13, 2006)

We caulk everything before we even put on primer. Then we primer everything, sand and sweep 
then go back and hit any voids that are still showing.


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## dkillianjr (Aug 28, 2006)

I do the same as camaroman. Caulk everything! 

Dave


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## Sir Mixalot (Jan 6, 2008)

Yep, pretty much caulk every seam before painting.



camaroman2125 said:


> We caulk everything before we even put on primer. Then we primer everything, sand and sweep
> then go back and hit any voids that are still showing.


I always prime first, then caulk. I think the caulk adheres better to the primer. :thumbsup:


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## Bearded Wonder (Jan 21, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> every joint? really?I don't do that,I try to paint fill as much as possible then caulk if i need to on the final coat.. but you know I can see how it would look more seamless


Seems like caulking some areas but not others would leave a sporadic looking job. It's pretty much standard on every trim job I've ever painted or had painted to caulk every joint. Some guys do it before prime, some after, but if I saw a painter just caulking the areas that "need it" I would throw a fit...


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

Spencer said:


> Dang, looks like I've got my work cut out for me...
> 
> Any particular caulk you're using? DAP kwik seal?


I use Big Stretch pretty much exclusively.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

I have been using polyseamseal that my lumberyard stocks.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

ClaytonR said:


> Seems like caulking some areas but not others would leave a sporadic looking job. It's pretty much standard on every trim job I've ever painted or had painted to caulk every joint. Some guys do it before prime, some after, but if I saw a painter just caulking the areas that "need it" I would throw a fit...


eww I don't really like seeing it all caulked up..you loose a lot of trim definition..and you better make sure who you are throwing that fit at:whistling


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## Bearded Wonder (Jan 21, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> eww I don't really like seeing it all caulked up..you loose a lot of trim definition..and you better make sure who you are throwing that fit at:whistling


Depends on who's caulking. Should be a small enough bead that you don't lose any trim definition. And it better be fingered. I've seen guys throw on a nice tiny bead but not wipe it down with a finger, and that does look bad. I don't like caulking as a substitute for good craftsmanship either, which I have seen.


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## Ohio painter (Dec 4, 2011)

I am 50 / 50. If the trim is getting painted then I usually caulk the trim, but not always. Some jobs get it others don't, It just boils down to what I think will look the best. 

What I avoid is leaving caulk unpainted. I won't caulk the trim if the trim is not getting painted as the caulk may discolor over time. 

Robie - how long do you leave the Big Stretch to set up before painting over it? I always leave it at least overnight. It is great caulk.


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## Carpenter eyes (Jan 10, 2012)

All trim thats painted gets caulking. If i install, i caulk too. Then i proceed to cover myself in it


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

> Robie - how long do you leave the Big Stretch to set up before painting over it? I always leave it at least overnight. It is great caulk.


Yup, I strive for overnight. Strive I said. If overnight is impossible, I'll put a fan on it or in the room and if I'm careful with the brush, can put a coat on after two hours.

I'm one of those guys that tapes before I caulk, so I'm really wiping most of it off before I paint. With tape, I don't mess up the walls or trim by wiping a lot. So, the little amount left to blend any gap dries pretty fast.


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## Anderson (Sep 7, 2009)

seems that Dap white caulk goes translucent lately


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

What's a Dap?


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## Seven-Delta-FortyOne (Mar 5, 2011)

Do your best, caulk the rest.

Caulk and paint make a carpenter what he ain't.

:cheesygri








Not my philosophies, but still funny.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Anderson said:


> seems that Dap white caulk goes translucent lately


Their clear caulk does go on white and dry translucent??? You got the right stuff???


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

I'm going to make myself look really dumb but that's ok. If you can't tell I don't have a lot of experience painting. A carpenter I know used to do all his white trim like this:

He would paint a 12" area all around his doors, windows, and base with the wall color. Then he would install trim.

To paint the trim in place he would mask off the wall area that he had painted with wall color. He was a non pro painter so he relied more on tape the cutting ability.

So you paint the trim white, pull all your masking off the wall, and you don't have any cutting to do. Just roll the wall close to the trim, you don't have to cut because it is already painted behind.

Is this retarded?

I know that caulk always needs to be covered in paint so it seems like this wouldn't work if you caulk the trim/wall joint??? Excuse my stupidity...


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

I don't think it's dumb but then again...I tape.

I will get the walls finished and painted. Wait a full day, then come back with yellow Gorilla tape and tape the walls. Prime, caulk and paint the trim, then remove the tape. In my case, I'm probably doing something else around the house for them and it's not a big deal. 
I find when, especially on the baseboard, someone before me has done a lousy caulk job, taping allows me to get a crisp, even line at the transition to the wall.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

Spencer said:


> A carpenter I know used to do all his white trim like this:


There's the problem.



Spencer said:


> Is this retarded?


Yes.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

I think it doesn't matter much how you get to your desired results as long as you do....


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

hdavis said:


> There's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.


Thanks Davis. I can always count on you to shoot straight with me. :thumbup:

I just keep thinking there has to be a more efficient way to spray trim in place without cutting around all the window/door casing...

Robie, you must be brushing otherwise you'd be shooting overspray over your freshly painted wall. I'm going to be shooting everything with an airless.


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## Robie (Feb 25, 2005)

Spencer said:


> Thanks Davis. I can always count on you to shoot straight with me. :thumbup:
> 
> I just keep thinking there has to be a more efficient way to spray trim in place without cutting around all the window/door casing...
> 
> Robie, you must be brushing otherwise you'd be shooting overspray over your freshly painted wall. I'm going to be shooting everything with an airless.


Like with so many things...I missed that part. Sorry. I only spray lacquer on furniture. Carry on.


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## TAHomeRepairs (Jun 18, 2012)

Spencer said:


> Their clear caulk does go on white and dry translucent??? You got the right stuff???


Yeah, you sure you didn't get the clear?


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

If you're going to put paint on the wall before trim install, do the complete paint job on the walls. That saves much overall time.

Fastest I know of is paint the walls (all coats), rack the trim and paint it (all coats, some trim parts are preassembled). Glue the trim on with adhesive, no caulk (I don't do this - it just seems wrong to me, and I don't think it's very good if you have to tweak the install). I've seen this on high end stained trim as well.


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## thom (Nov 3, 2006)

You will find you do a better job while saving yourself time if you paint the trim onto the wall then go back and cut the wall into the trim. If the trim paint is glossy, cut the wall while the trim paint is still tacky or you will need two coats. 

Spraying only makes sense in a new house. It is best done right after the sheetrock is completed, prior to any other trim being installed.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

hdavis said:


> Fastest I know of is paint the walls (all coats), rack the trim and paint it (all coats, some trim parts are preassembled). Glue the trim on with adhesive, no caulk (I don't do this - it just seems wrong to me, and I don't think it's very good if you have to tweak the install). I've seen this on high end stained trim as well.


I've also heard of sanding the wall if semi gloss is sprayed on to take some of the sheen out. Ever heard of that?

I'm thinking the whole idea of painting the wall first is a wast of time...


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## TAHomeRepairs (Jun 18, 2012)

Spencer said:


> I've also heard of sanding the wall if semi gloss is sprayed on to take some of the sheen out. Ever heard of that?
> 
> I'm thinking the whole idea of painting the wall first is a wast of time...


I think I prefer to just use satin...


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## camaroman2125 (Apr 13, 2006)

We do all new construction and the trim is always painted before we do walls. We just cut the wall color into the trim. Easy peazy:laughing:


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

camaroman2125 said:


> We do all new construction and the trim is always painted before we do walls. We just cut the wall color into the trim. Easy peazy:laughing:


How about base? Do you tape that?


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## camaroman2125 (Apr 13, 2006)

Spencer said:


> How about base? Do you tape that?


Yes but not to cut a line we use it to keep paint sprinkles off the base.


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## KDPaintingCT (Aug 8, 2013)

All trim should be caulked to look finished and professionally done. We use Sherwin Williams 950A for caulk, great product.


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## Bearded Wonder (Jan 21, 2011)

KDPaintingCT said:


> All trim should be caulked to look finished and professionally done. We use Sherwin Williams 950A for caulk, great product.


Agreed. Good stuff.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

KDPaintingCT said:


> All trim should be caulked to look finished and professionally done. We use Sherwin Williams 950A for caulk, great product.


Thats what I'm using but I'm wondering about how to prevent all the little bugers that are forming as I smooth it with my finger??? Hit it with a damp rag?


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

Am I the only one here that would rather be shot in the head than caulk up perfectly good trim?? 

Spackling paste; sandable, carvable.


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## kambrooks (Apr 24, 2012)

moorewarner said:


> Am I the only one here that would rather be shot in the head than caulk up perfectly good trim??
> 
> Spackling paste; sandable, carvable.


Probably. That sounds a little extreme :laughing:


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## moorewarner (May 29, 2009)

kambrooks said:


> Probably. That sounds a little extreme :laughing:


I'm not sure I'm entirely right in the head. :laughing:


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## Madmak (Aug 17, 2013)

I caulk all seams before paint as well and always use a wet rag to follow up and keep the bead small and smooth. Sometimes I hit it a second time after a coat of paint if something isn't looking right. There are also some very hard auto body fillers that work well on face joints, ie casing mitres.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Might have to caulk this casing and the top of the windows.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

ModernStyle said:


> Might have to caulk this casing and the top of the windows.


I think they forgot part of the jamb.


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Rubber shoe molding..


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

Being I was the ignoramus that started this thread I should probably post some progress pics. I learned real quick to hate caulking white trim but it sure does make it look good. 

I caulked every last flippin crack and it looks beautiful. Even under the base cap.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

That window apron is out of proportion.


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## Eaglei (Aug 1, 2012)

Spend the extra money and buy a quality caulk such as phenoseal, it's a caulk and binder all in one . It really holds things together like a glue would and does'nt shrink nearly as much as a regular caulk . I also like to tool my joints at a 90 deg. angle for a crisp look. If you do this with a cheap caulk it's going to shrink .All the big box stores and paint stores carry phenoseal .


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> That window apron is out of proportion.


That pic might not do it justice. It's 3-3/8. I think it looks good. I'm open to criticism. What width do you want?


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## ohiohomedoctor (Dec 26, 2010)

Bottom should be equal to the top less the crown in my opinion.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Good thread! I caulk everything, that being said, the first game played is make it tight so that I don't have to caulk anything. I also prime first. Any dark(shadow) areas get caulk.


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## TimelessQuality (Sep 23, 2007)

Looks right to me Spencer... You're going to end up with a beautiful home:thumbsup:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Jan 30, 2008)

Same as the exposed size of the head piece. Needs that solid base under the stool.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

It looks to be Craftsman style casing, so proportions can be all over. 

For most casings I'll keep the apron and legs pretty close in width. 

FWIW, if you turn it upside down and it makes sense, it's a decent design.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Same as the exposed size of the head piece. Needs that solid base under the stool.


Thankfully I'm happy with the way it looks. It didn't sound like it would look right after you said that but it does. I don't like the full width of the architrave piece as much but somewhere in between definitely looks nice.


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## Spencer (Jul 6, 2005)

TimelessQuality said:


> Looks right to me Spencer... You're going to end up with a beautiful home:thumbsup:


It has been a long haul. Been working on it for over a year and I'm running out of steam. Just gotta push for a couple more months....


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I think they forgot part of the jamb.


No way man. Its perfect. Carpenter said if I use the right caulk there is no reason why a 1 inch deep by 3/4 inch wide gap should be a problem. 
When I mentioned breaking out some of the drywall around the window to get it tighter he looked at me like I was stupid. 
I should have known better then to question the professionalism of a man with a 20 year old Craftsman tablesaw. He knows his stuff.


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## hdavis (Feb 14, 2012)

ModernStyle said:


> No way man. Its perfect. Carpenter said if I use the right caulk there is no reason why a 1 inch deep by 3/4 inch wide gap should be a problem.
> When I mentioned breaking out some of the drywall around the window to get it tighter he looked at me like I was stupid.
> I should have known better then to question the professionalism of a man with a 20 year old Craftsman tablesaw. He knows his stuff.


I see the same thing with guys driving new trucks and all new DeWalt tools. Having said that, the Craftsman saws from 20 years ago are generally worn out and don't produce decent cuts. The ones from 35+ years ago can be refurbed when needed, but who needs to lug around a cast iron saw? Original Craftsman fences pretty much s*cked - always having to check / tweak before any critical cut. Anyone half serious put an aftermarket fence on.


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## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

I think the proportions look fine.

Trim overall looks great!


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## mike gunderson (May 23, 2010)

I caulk all painted trim, that being said, caulking is like putty, it can make a good job better or a poor job worse.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

These carpenters are caulking their own crown, once they had asked me and sorted out which side was the top. No coping or compound mitre saw on this job. Oh they are also filling the nail holes with caulk. Glad I am just helping out another painter and it ain't my name on this job.


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## tccoggs (Dec 17, 2008)

White lightning 3006 works very well for interior trim and is not very expensive either. Blowes carries it around here. I like it much better than dap Alex plus but dap Alex 230 or Dyna flex 230 work quite well. Big stretch is the best but its all special order around here. Somebody threw a half tube in the dumpster and it oozed out on a piece of wood and I couldn't get it off and its stretched like mad before finally tearing.


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## ModernStyle (May 7, 2007)

Big Stretch will tear up your wrist trying to caulk a big house with it. Never had a problem with its quality, but man my hand was sore after a day of using it.


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## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

ah yea..always figured that about you..


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## Derek1157 (Dec 21, 2012)

When I was first learning to paint years back, there were 3 of us working for my boss. Caulking and masking was all I did for the first 4 years. I was a caulkmaster. We caulked every seam and crack. Makes it look much better and smooth. It's all about the prep.


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## JHC (Jun 4, 2010)

Looking good Spencer!


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## Vision HS (Dec 27, 2012)

Dynaflex 230 and caulk everything. Then, for intricate stuff, I take a 5in1 with a worn down point and clean the crevices and corners so I don't lose any profiles.


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## mike d. (Dec 2, 2009)

I always thought of caulking as the painters job. Do you caulk on stained trim too?


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## Vision HS (Dec 27, 2012)

It is the painters job. But I normally do it all. When I don't, the only thing I'll normally caulk is painted crown.

You _can_ caulk stained base to walls, but you gotta be darn good.


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## Fightnducks (Feb 10, 2014)

-After drywall, install all trim and doors
-caulk all trim to the walls and most trim to itself. IE, we caulk the casing to the jambs, the stops to the jambs etc. If you tool it well with a wet finger and rag you don't really loose the trim's definition. It's been my experience that not caulking these transitions usually results in very small yet highly visible gaps. IMO, even a 1/6 black gap against white trim looks like poo.
-spray all the trim. We usually try to schedule this so it lands on a friday, giving it the weekend to dry.

-mask all the trim off
-spray primer and paint


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## KAP (Feb 19, 2011)

When it comes to caulking trim, I don't know what I'd do without my index finger and back of thumb nail... :whistling


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## Fatbloke (Sep 28, 2014)

I always brush in with a wet brush
Not too wet
Leaves a lovely minimal but filled crack


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## Vision HS (Dec 27, 2012)

How do you keep the brush clean?


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## Fatbloke (Sep 28, 2014)

*Brush*

Just dip in kettle and wipe
Keep it just damp
Excellent for brushing in shadow gaps etc


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## Fatbloke (Sep 28, 2014)

A damp flat fitch is much better than a finger lol


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## Big Shoe (Jun 16, 2008)

Just installed 100' bead board, base, chair rail and crown. I was instructed to let the painter do all caulking and putty. I normally do all that. It felt strange leaving it that way.


Also, the apron looks small in my opinion. That was the first thought that came to mind. Like someone else said, upside down. But it's not the end of the world..............Life goes on.


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