# outdoor covered patio - tile?



## ruger9 (Jun 27, 2006)

My mom wants to redo the patio floor. It's a covered patio with pretty good weather protection from 3 sides (it's built between the house & garage). Whats on the floor now are very old linoleum tiles of some kind, 40 years old- no doubt asbestos- laid right on the concrete. Not one is loose or lifting, my dad must have used adhesive of some kind, and it's never let go. And it's hard as a rock.

I was going to go right over the floor with tile. Being asbestos, I want to encapsulate rather than try to remove.

Questions- ceramic or porcelain for exterior use? Does it matter? 

Can I mortar right to the old tile, or is a new subfloor absolutely required?

Also, are these interlocking tiles I see online (no subfloor or mortar necceasry, just lay them & lock them) any good? Sounds like a poor idea to me- water getting trapped underneath, can't imagine it'll be as solid as a tile floor...


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## EMCustom (Mar 19, 2007)

I'd recommend porcelain for outside because it has the lowest moisture absorption rating and is less likely to crack in freezing weather. As for laying it down right over asbestos tile... I dunno. It doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I'd go with an uncoupling type underlayment like Ditra.


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## ruger9 (Jun 27, 2006)

Thanks for the advice. I did some reading up on Ditra, and it seems to be a 50/50 like/dislike thing with that product. I'm considering removing the tile, even if it is asbestos, it's outside, I'll just keep it wet to keep dust to a minimum. Actually, I should be able to keep it dust-free. I'm not even 100% sure it's asbestos, I just assume it is because of it's age.

I'd feel alot better tiling directly to the concrete, I'm just not looking forward to a tile removal job if this stuff is stuck as good as it seems to be...


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## carolinaprowash (Dec 28, 2006)

Have you investigated decorative concrete overlay? Products can go straight over any sound and solid surface and you're not as limited to designs as you are with tile. Costs are comparable as well 

Celeste


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## LennyV-NHSNOLA (Nov 22, 2006)

I did a search of this forum and this is the only thread dealing with applying tile to a concrete patio. Am I searching the wrong forum?

I have a customer who is interested in having this done and I'm trying to find a little more info on the process. I've found concerns about heat and cold expansion/contraction and anti-slip issues but I haven't really found the answers to the heat/cold expansion/contraction... which isn't normally a problem with interior tile flooring.

Have you researched this issue?


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## JJC (Nov 5, 2005)

check out www.schluter.com for their Ditra product. Also the Kerdibands.


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## LennyV-NHSNOLA (Nov 22, 2006)

Is there a best-time-of-the-year to do tile on an outdoor patio? It's summertime down here where it's in the 90'sF most days and our winters don't last long but occasionally get below freezing a couple of times during the night. The last really hard-freeze (below freezing temps for several days) was back in 1989. I would imagine doing the install during the fall or spring with 60F temps would be best but I don't think I can talk the customer into waiting that long.

Sorry for the thread hijack but hopefully some of my questions will help the OP also.


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## JJC (Nov 5, 2005)

Ambient temperature, surfaces and materials should be maintained at a temperature above 50° F (10° C) or below 100° F (38° C) for 72 hours.

This common for most thinsets.


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## Bud Cline (Feb 12, 2006)

Porcelain _*is*_ a ceramic tile just a little different recipe. Porcelain has the lowest absorbancy rate of 1/2 of 1 percent and is very suitable for outdoor use winter or summer. The above installation weather parameters are correct. I would however use a quality modified thinset such as KeraBond mixed with Keralastic. The less expensive thinsets could be troublesome in the temperature extremes.

There is nothing wrong with encapsulating the existing tile but as old as it is now you would be depending on the existing bond to the concrete to last. The old tile should really be removed but be assured it does contain asbestos. The adhesive used to install it probably does to.

Leave a perimeter gap of 1/4" and if it must be filled for looks use caulk and not grout.:thumbsup:


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## Angus (Jul 12, 2007)

What is the possibility of building a floor over the existing floor? Then you have a better floor to install your Ditra/cement board. I had a contractor do this in one of my customers basements. The entire basement (1500 SF) was asbestos tile. It was much cheaper and less time to do this than taking up the asbestos tiles.


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