# Glass tile blade



## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

The search didn't turn up name brands to look for. I have a glass mosaic tile backsplash coming up. The last one I did was a pain. Anyone have a good brand to recommend? 7" size.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Any good tile blade will do.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

I recently saw a $50+ bathroom remodel where the tile setter used a notched trowel to install the glass tile. Looked terrible as you could see all of the notches through the tile.

So, my advice, don't buy a notched trowel.


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## BlueRidgeGreen (Apr 21, 2012)

I've done a bit of testing on various glass tiles, using various blades.

I found that the T3 Razor was just as good as a Glassmaster.
My guess is that any good quality smooth continuous rim blade would work well.

I also think that it depends on the glass (and backing film) to some extent.

After a good blade, what I found to be most important was the method of cutting. 

On my last subway glass job, I was cutting 65% from the back, then 40% from the front.....which achieved the cleanest results (minor chipping of backing film....miniscule chipping of finished edge).

I then used 3in1 oil and a diamond hone to slightly ease my exposed finished cuts.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jb4211 said:


> I recently saw a $50+ bathroom remodel where the tile setter used a notched trowel to install the glass tile. Looked terrible as you could see all of the notches through the tile.
> 
> So, my advice, don't buy a notched trowel.


How would you install tile but for a notched trowel?

If you could see the towel lines that's installation error.


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## Sprung831 (Apr 4, 2012)

I'm intrigued by the T3/Glass Master comparison. Is this Glass Master the one with the same raised core as the T3?

I do agree that the method of cutting definitely has a huge impact.

I do not agree however, that any good tile blade will do. The chemistry of a porcelain blade is much different than that of a glass blade.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

Sprung831 said:


> I'm intrigued by the T3/Glass Master comparison. Is this Glass Master the one with the same raised core as the T3?
> 
> I do agree that the method of cutting definitely has a huge impact.
> 
> I do not agree however, that any good tile blade will do. The chemistry of a porcelain blade is much different than that of a glass blade.


Just speaking from experience. YMMV


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Thanks guys!! I will let you know what I end up with and how it performs.


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## jb4211 (Jul 13, 2010)

TNTSERVICES said:


> How would you install tile but for a notched trowel?
> 
> If you could see the towel lines that's installation error.


I'm not a tile setter.
But I talked to the tile setter I use about the visible lines behind that glass tile. He said he doesn't use a notched trowel for glass tiles. He said he keys-in a thin layer of mortar into the wall using the flat side of his trowel and back butters the tiles. Leaves no visible lines after installation.

That sounded like a nice method.

No??

I'm just now getting into tile installation.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

I then used 3in1 oil and a diamond hone to slightly ease my exposed finished cuts.[/QUOTE said:


> Polishing pad on grinder is pretty quick,too.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Anyone use the MK blades? Looks like MK , Glass master, and the T3 razor ar all around $60 for a 7".


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

jb4211 said:


> I'm not a tile setter.
> But I talked to the tile setter I use about the visible lines behind that glass tile. He said he doesn't use a notched trowel for glass tiles. He said he keys-in a thin layer of mortar into the wall using the flat side of his trowel and back butters the tiles. Leaves no visible lines after installation..


Using a notched trowel first, set a gauged amount of thinset. Then knock down ridges with flat side of trowel. Set tile and push into thinset with grout float. 

How could you backbutter a glass mosaic without thinset pushing into every grout line? Wouldn't work.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

olzo55 said:


> Using a notched trowel first, set a gauged amount of thinset. Then knock down ridges with flat side of trowel. Set tile and push into thinset with grout float.
> 
> How could you backbutter a glass mosaic without thinset pushing into every grout line? Wouldn't work.


That's how I have done it too.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

jb4211 said:


> I'm not a tile setter.
> But I talked to the tile setter I use about the visible lines behind that glass tile. He said he doesn't use a notched trowel for glass tiles. He said he keys-in a thin layer of mortar into the wall using the flat side of his trowel and back butters the tiles. Leaves no visible lines after installation.
> 
> That sounded like a nice method.
> ...


V notch trowel. Trowel the wall. Stick the tile. No need to flatten anything. If you are using the proper trowel the mortar will flatten out like it is supposed to. The ridges fill the valleys and you have no lines. 

My rule of thumb is that I press each mosaic individually. I make sure that there is no air bubbles or ridge lines. I have had to pull a few that I missed, but it's not normal on most installations.

One of the reasons I prefer painted back glass.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

olzo55 said:


> Using a notched trowel first, set a gauged amount of thinset. Then knock down ridges with flat side of trowel. Set tile and push into thinset with grout float.
> 
> How could you backbutter a glass mosaic without thinset pushing into every grout line? Wouldn't work.


I have had to back trowel a few mosaics. Not ideal and it was only due to location of install (had to get in a small angled area). In the two instances I have had to do it, I just hot glued the grout line from the back side. Only a few oozers but nothing my toothbrush couldn't handle.


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## GO Remodeling (Apr 5, 2005)

TNTSERVICES said:


> I have had to back trowel a few mosaics. Not ideal and it was only due to location of install (had to get in a small angled area). In the two instances I have had to do it, I just hot glued the grout line from the back side. Only a few oozers but nothing my toothbrush couldn't handle.


Interesting idea. I cut a small hand trowel out of a plastic putty knife with my grinder.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Well I ordered the MK glass blade and also added a dressing stone to my order. We will find out tomorrow how well it cuts.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

TNTSERVICES said:


> V notch trowel. Trowel the wall. Stick the tile. No need to flatten anything. If you are using the proper trowel the mortar will flatten out like it is supposed to. The ridges fill the valleys and you have no lines.


Yup.

I have a Marshalltown square-notched trowel with similar spread to the v-notch. I forgot the dimensions, but it works real nice, too.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

When you guys cut a full sheet of glass mosaic on the saw, how are you holding the sheet in place? Sequentially (tile-by-tile) with your fingers, or another method? Just wondering about a faster way.


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## TNTRenovate (Aug 19, 2010)

MarkJames said:


> When you guys cut a full sheet of glass mosaic on the saw, how are you holding the sheet in place? Sequentially (tile-by-tile) with your fingers, or another method? Just wondering about a faster way.


I cut them sitting on top of a scrap piece of tile. That way it's fully supported the entire cute.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

MarkJames said:


> When you guys cut a full sheet of glass mosaic on the saw, how are you holding the sheet in place? Sequentially (tile-by-tile) with your fingers, or another method? Just wondering about a faster way.


As crazy as it sounds, I have left them on the cardboard they came on and cut them. Seemed to work ok.


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## MarkJames (Nov 25, 2012)

Thanks. I was just wondering if I was missing some other magical way. Guess not.


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## overanalyze (Dec 28, 2010)

Well the MK blade worked well. Very little chipping. I also used the dressing stone about halfway through my install and that worked great too!


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