# Drilling Pavers



## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

Has anyone ever drilled 1.5" to 2" holes thru these type of pavers?
http://woodsshop.com/DESIGNS/Spa/9.htm

They're very hard, and my mason will need to drill holes thru a few. My thinking is that a regular rotary hammer drill bit would probably break them, so I'm wondering if that would in fact work, or maybe is there a carbide hole saw type of bit that would do a better job?

This is the application. I'm setting posts for a patio cover onto the pavers. I've already set my footings, 1/2" lower then the surrounding base material, with a 1/2" allthread sticking out at the post location. I'll attach my standoff post base to the allthread. He'll lay some very dry grout onto my footings, level with his base material, then set his pavers onto the grout, and he'll need to drill those holes so that one paver can drop down over the 1/2" rod.
http://woodsshop.com/PROJECTS/Hari/base.htm


----------



## tkle (Apr 15, 2006)

Try slowing down the hammer and running water on the bit.


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

I have had the best result starting 
with a smaller hole and stepping up
the bit sizes.
But I've never gotten away with too
many without breaking some.


----------



## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Just split and nibble the pavers. It isn't worth the effort to try and drill them.


----------



## wellbuilthome (Feb 5, 2008)

I use a hi speed grinder with a hole saw for granit and tile it should go thru like butter.


----------



## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

I don't understand Wellbuilt, you don't hook the hole saw to the grinder do you?

Seems to me like a hole saw would cut a 1.5" hole alot easier then a regular hammer drill bit would?

Would you use a carbide or diamond tipped hole saw for this?


----------



## MALCO.New.York (Feb 27, 2008)

Joe Wood said:


> I don't understand Wellbuilt, you don't hook the hole saw to the grinder do you?
> 
> Seems to me like a hole saw would cut a 1.5" hole alot easier then a regular hammer drill bit would?
> 
> Would you use a carbide or diamond tipped hole saw for this?


A grit hole saw!


----------



## concretemasonry (Dec 1, 2006)

A 1 1/2" to 2" hole in a 4" wide paver that is probably 2 3/8" thick. If you are careful and handle it carefully, you can get it in place. Get the pavers cored somewhere. - they are not too heavy to move.

That is a real strange detail with some of the pavers sitting in grout on a concrete footing and the rest sitting directly on a compacted soil base. - Any side load on the post?


----------



## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

My problem was, if I set the posts onto CB66 post bases, the paver guys would have to cut the pavers around each post, leaving the post bottoms in a hole where they'd possibly stay wet. The way I've decided to go, all the posts will land on top of uncut pavers and look alot better as well as staying high and dry. 

Not sure what you mean by side load on the posts, but here's a pic of the design, there'll be 6 posts altogether, all at slightly different elevations because of the slope.

Don't think the paver guys will want to stop what they're doing to go get each of the 6 pavers cored, they'll need to core them as they're laying.


----------



## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Technically, the post anchors should be set to grade and dry-pack grouted before the paver guys get there, then they cut around them.


----------



## concretemasonry (Dec 1, 2006)

TS has got it right.


----------



## tkle (Apr 15, 2006)

concretemasonry said:


> TS has got it right.


As usual.


----------



## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

Ya, that might be a good way to do it, but that's not what I'm asking about as my footings and allthread are already in.


----------



## tkle (Apr 15, 2006)

It's not only a " good way", it's the correct way to carry the load.


----------



## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Right. Put a nut on the all-thread at the correct height. Place the post anchor, then another nut. Get non-shrink non-metallic grout and drypack (which means damp pack) under the anchor.


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Tscarborough said:


> Right. Put a nut on the all-thread at the correct height. Place the post anchor, then another nut. Get *non-shrink non-metallic grout *and drypack (which means damp pack) under the anchor.


Can you name some good brands?
My experience is mostly with
iron types where it won't be exposed.
Watching this it occurs to me I can't 
name a structural non-metallic.


----------



## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Sono-grout 10K or several of the Sika grouts are nationally available. 


As an aside, the purpose of the metal shavings is to rust and swell an amount equal to the shrinkage of the cementious portion of the grout. The non-metallic grouts do the same thing using manganese or other non-ferrous minerals and are much more stable and predictable.


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Tscarborough said:


> *Sono-grout 10K or several of the Sika grouts are nationally available. *
> 
> 
> As an aside, the purpose of the metal shavings is to rust and swell an amount equal to the shrinkage of the cementious portion of the grout. The non-metallic grouts do the same thing using manganese or other non-ferrous minerals and are much more stable and predictable.


:notworthy
I've used, literally, tons of ferrous
grout for red-iron base plates and couldn't 
come up with one brand name
for a non-ferrous. :blush:


----------



## Joe Wood (Sep 20, 2005)

OK thanks fellas, appreciate the input, but I really only want to know what the proper drill bit would be to make 1.5" holes thru these pavers.


----------



## neolitic (Apr 20, 2006)

Joe Wood said:


> OK thanks fellas, appreciate the input, but I really only want to know what the proper drill bit would be to make 1.5" holes thru these pavers.


Only time I can think of that I 
had to do it, I started small 
and stepped up to 1".
(Cast aluminum faux Paris
street lamps with 4 bolt bases.)

Couple of thoughts...
Drilling on sand seemed to provide 
a cushion and reduce the breakage.
Maybe less chance of breakage 
if, after roto-hammmering a pilot,
you just went rotary only and 
step up more gradually.
You've only got 6 to do, right?


This advice is probably worth exactly what you paid for it.


----------

