# corner bead on densShield



## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

installed densShield for tub surround. also used densShield around the window sill but this will just get a skim coat and paint. the tile will come to the bottom of this window.

should i use metal corner bead, with thinset on the tile side and setting compound on the paint side?

or maybe mesh tape with thinset on wall and setting compound on the window sill since this corner cannot be damaged because the edge of the tile will act like a corner bead.

thanks fellas the gp website doesnt address this and i prefer to hear your guys 'real world' experience over what the rep tell me...


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

Are you installing the tile? If not then I'd ask the tile guy and see what he wants. Half the time around here they want corner bead and the other half they want it left alone so they can get there own straight line with tile.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Butt seams of DS in the wet area should be taped and thinsetted. Butt seams between DS and drywall in non-wet areas need to be taped and mudded using setting compounds. You should find this information on their website.

I wouldn't put any corner bead under tile unless one side is getting tile and the other is getting drywall mud and painted and the tile is going to stop short of the actual corner.


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## Brockster (Aug 24, 2007)

Mike Finley said:


> and the tile is going to stop short of the actual corner.


Why is this? Why wouldn't you go to the corner with tile? Are you worried about rust or something rotting out and hurting the integrity of the tile? Not trying to get lippy, just trying to understand and learn something here and because we run into this all the time.


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

Maybe I'm not clear. What I'm saying is if the tile goes right to the corner there is absolutely no reason to use a corner bead. The only reason I would see to use one would be if the tile stopped short of the corner and you would see the exposed corner. This would require something.

I wouldn't ever be worried about rust because I would never install anything in a wet area this could rust. Vinyl bead and rust proof screws in a wet area.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

Brockster said:


> Are you installing the tile?


yes sir what would you recommend? 



Mike Finley said:


> I wouldn't put any corner bead under tile unless one side is getting tile and the other is getting drywall mud and painted and the tile is going to stop short of the actual corner.


by stopping short of the corner do you mean the small distance of the corner bead or more like 5-6 inches down?

the tile will come all the way up to the corner. so its looking like mesh tape with thin set under tile and setting compound on the window sill?

mucho gracias fellas i know this aint the diy forum but im not a diy guy this is my job and want to provide quality work so i look to you guys for advice :notworthy

what about inside corners using densArmor whats better mesh tape and setting compound or vinyl inside beads? the gp website recommends paper tape creased in the middle using their drying style compound.

edit: just saw those last two post. ok vinyl bead no metal but in this application no bead at all. 

are normal drywall screws rust proof...dont shoot me thats a rookie question ha ha


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## Mike Finley (Apr 28, 2004)

No they aren't and around here they aren't up to code and you can get failed by using them. In wet areas we use a special collated screw that is rust resistant in order to comply.

I'm not sure exactly what you are doing, but is this a window in a shower? It seems it has to be to some degree or your wouldn't be worried about it. I think the issue is defining where the wet area is or isn't or where it stops. As long as the window is out of the wet area I'd do the drywall, if it's not I would denshield it and tile it inside and out.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

I got you. the tub is under a window. The wall tile stops at the bottom of the window. the window is returned with rock and bead. If this is correct i assume the tile will totaly cover the wall but not the return. If this is the case most tile guys ask to hang the bead but try to make it tight to the wall so the thinset fill isn't heavy. Coat the paint side full and leave the tile side out. Now if the tile is short of the bead you have to finish both sides and run the thinset over the spackle. As long as it is not inside the shower the water amount on the wall is different and shouldn't be a problem.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

BUTCHERMAN said:


> The wall tile stops at the bottom of the window. the window is returned with rock and bead. If this is correct i assume the tile will totaly cover the wall but not the return.


ah you lost me at the second sentence. the wall tile completely stops at the bottom window height. the rest of the way up is paint including the entire window sill and wall.

thought the gp website said to use normal drywall screws. those hardi backer and durock screws are really expensive is that what you recommend for denShield or is there another option.

somewhat unrelated whats the deal with those yellowish shinny coated drywall screws that come in the purple box?

edit:whoops i forgot, here is the window the bathtub is directly under it


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## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

I appreciate the fact that you want to provide a quality job for your customer, but it would have been better to bone up on your waterproofing knowledge BEFORE you had their bathroom gutted. That scope of work you have taken on goes a bit beyond handyman work and I would venture to guess that you are charging substantially more than $500 (the limit for unlicensed work here in Ca.)


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

send_it_all said:


> I appreciate the fact that you want to provide a quality job for your customer, but it would have been better to bone up on your waterproofing knowledge BEFORE you had their bathroom gutted. That scope of work you have taken on goes a bit beyond handyman work and I would venture to guess that you are charging substantially more than $500 (the limit for unlicensed work here in Ca.)



ah no here is comes..dont worry man im not undercharging and stealing work you can believe that im one broke ass dude just trying to learn tips from the old school guys.

this is not my first bath remodel, first time using densShield though. im a handyman that wakes up early and bust my ass like the rest of you guys. trust me you make more money :clap: if i make $500 a week im happy the way this job is going


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## bujaly (Dec 16, 2006)

send_it_all said:


> but it would have been better to bone up on your waterproofing knowledge BEFORE you had their bathroom gutted. That scope of work you have taken on goes a bit beyond handyman work


What do u mean here? I'm lookin t the picture of studs and shit.. I'm also half in the can and tired as heck..lol (tomorrow I might "see" a little clearer)


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

bujaly said:


> What do u mean here? I'm lookin t the picture of studs and shit.. I'm also half in the can and tired as heck..lol (tomorrow I might "see" a little clearer)


its sucks man i look up to send_it_all read lots of posts by him and learned lots of tips. think he is just rippin on me cause im midway through a job and asking questions...well deserved but i still enjoy adapting installation techniques as i learn new methods from forums like this one.


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## send_it_all (Apr 10, 2007)

I'm really not ripping on you....well, I am, but I'm not all militant about the licensing thing. 

How can you say in the same sentence that you aren't undercharging, and then say you're happy with $500 a week....that's $12.50 an hour...I pay my entry level helpers that much.

I'm just giving you a little s**t.....Glad you came to the right place for advice. Post pics when it's done.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

send_it_all said:


> How can you say in the same sentence that you aren't undercharging, and then say you're happy with $500 a week....that's $12.50 an hour...I pay my entry level helpers that much.


i usually charge hourly for small jobs. biggers ones i bid. you know about that stupid cali law so i just break down the big jobs into smaller $500 chunks.

ran into some setbacks (leaking abs in upstairs bath that transfers outside the house and runs down the exterior wall). you can see the pipe in the picture. so this week sucked from a money making standpoint is what i was trying to get at.

yeah pics when im done for sure. here is one for ya...LUKE IM NOT YOUR FATHER :w00t:


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

im thinking of using thinset and mesh on the two lower inside corners and also the outside corner of the window sill. maybe take the thinset 4 inches up the inside of the window frame. 

then use setting compound and go over the thinset because the inside of the window sill will be texture and paint.

will normal easy sand stick to thinset?

is this just a stupid idea or what they plan to put soap and wet stuff up there but dont want to tile it. 

thanks again guys changed alot of methods thanks to this site and they are working better...(i used to never thin premix mud :whistling sheesh what an idiot)


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

Now i'm confused.I think i got it right. The inside of the window is painted and the top and two sides outside the window are painted and the tile runs across the bottom of the window. If this is correct and the window is six feet high (as the ladder shows in the picture). And the window is not being trimed. Then this is the way i would go. Hang the dens shield from about 5 inches below the top of the tile. Then hang XP (purple board which is mold and mildew resistant) from the top of the dens shield all the way up. The XP is easy to paint. Coat the bead with ez sand and joint compound. Why go thinset first? this makes no sense. above six feet you usally only have to worry about steam not water. The XP is more than enough to handle that and you can tile on it with this application. I wouldn't use this in the shower because of the water on the wall factor below five feet. Don't use joint compound over thinset it's more work and defeats the purpose. Good luck. Also use mesh and thinset on the dens shield only and paper the XP.


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## BUTCHERMAN (Jan 19, 2008)

Also if you want you can use galvinized nails (roofing nails) and titebond construction adheisive to save on the cost of the screws. It's up to the code where i work. But use regular 1 1/4 on the XP


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## nwtile guy (Feb 13, 2008)

Is this a shower/tub combo? I couldn't see a shower head in the picture so I will assume it is just a tub. If it is just a tub you can virtually do just about anything because it will not be considered an area that receives constant water exposure. If it is a shower/tub combo, then tile the window!! A window in a shower is just asking for issues down the road. You can use drywall screws for the denshield, but what you want to do is take a liquid waterproofer like redguard or laticrete's hydroban and paint that over the screw heads. You will also want to do that on all the seems that u thinset and tape. Then your shower will be waterproof. If those steps are not taken, then you will not have a waterproof shower. As far as on the outside edge of a shower, if it is not affected by water, I would say put corner bead on it.


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## wopachop (Feb 12, 2008)

BUTCHERMAN said:


> Why go thinset first? this makes no sense.
> 
> Don't use joint compound over thinset it's more work and defeats the purpose.


i didnt want to apply the mesh tape over an outside densShield corner and apply thinset to one side and drywall setting compound to the other side.

so i thought it would be better to use thinset over the entire joint and then use drywall compound to finish the window sill side. the home owners plan on setting shampoo and soap on the window sill so it will get wet constantly but they dont want to tile all the way up the wall



nwtile guy said:


> You can use drywall screws for the denshield, but what you want to do is take a liquid waterproofer like redguard or laticrete's hydroban and paint that over the screw heads. You will also want to do that on all the seems that u thinset and tape. Then your shower will be waterproof. If those steps are not taken, then you will not have a waterproof shower.


i used rust proof screws. but do you still recommend using redguard even over seams that i thinset?


here is a pic. im just holding the tile in my hand and the corner bead is just sitting there. everything above the tile including the window sill will be painted. this is thinset over mesh.

the corner bead i bought has a really big radius compared to metal 90 degree. hard to tell in the pic...what do you guys think please dont be afraid to rip on me sometimes thats the most useful advice


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