# tell me about drip edge.



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

So I'm about to start shingling my personal house in a day or two as soon as the ice/frost melt.

I haven't roofed a house in a few years, and when I was reading the directions (I know :laughing It said to install in this order.
-I&W
-Drip edge
-underlayment lapped over the Drip edge
-Started Strip

This is for the eaves, I used to just put 
The drip edge, then the I&W then starter-strip No extra layer of underlay.

But the one that jumped out at me was on the rakes, It said to install the underlay first, then the Drip edge on it, then the starter strip.

Is this a new thing? or was I just doing it wrong before?


----------



## slowsol (Aug 27, 2005)

That's how I've always done it.


----------



## Inner10 (Mar 12, 2009)

Thanks for posting on ContractorTalk.com. The Moderators of this forum would prefer that you post Do It Yourself related topics on our sister site www.DIYChatroom.com 

ContractorTalk.com is designed for professional contractors to discuss issues and topics related to the construction and remodeling industries. Many of our professional contractors are also members at DIYChatroom.com and are looking forward to assist you with your needs.

Please take a moment to post your question at www.DIYChatroom.com If you're not already a member of DIYChatroom.com you can sign up for a free account by going to http://www.DIYChatroom.com/register.php/

We apologize for any inconvenience that this may have caused. This thread has been closed.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

...


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

When I do roofs I put gutter drip edge on then Ice and water over the whole roof then rake drip edge over the ice and water then follow directions on shingles.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

I been known to cheat with the I/W going over vs. under the drip but your instructions are correct.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

BCConstruction said:


> When I do roofs I put gutter drip edge on then Ice and water over the whole roof then rake drip edge over the ice and water then follow directions on shingles.


You put ice and water over the whole roof? 

Last house I shingled was 4 yrs ago ( thank God)

But I always did the drip edge first on the eave. That's the way I was taught. I've never had a leak, I was just wondering if the SOP Has changed, or if I always did it wrong


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

superseal said:


> I been known to cheat with the I/W going over vs. under the drip but your instructions are correct.


Thanks.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

JT Wood said:


> You put ice and water over the whole roof?
> 
> Last house I shingled was 4 yrs ago ( thank God)
> 
> But I always did the drip edge first on the eave. That's the way I was taught. I've never had a leak, I was just wondering if the SOP Has changed, or if I always did it wrong



I don't do a lot of roofs so when I do it's because someone wants my level of anal and a roof that def won't leak. It's def not a cheap way to do it but I ain't done any over 12 square. The majority of them I do are sheds so cost is minimal.


----------



## jstanton (Mar 25, 2012)

We use I&W first sandwiched between the fascia and 1x3 shadow board. Then underlay after the first 6' of I&W, then drip up the rakes. I have seen gutter get ice dams and leak into the trim where the drip had I&W on top of it not under.

I see no need for underlay on top of the drip. We just use ziptape on the top edge of the drip to the I&W for good measure. I will add 95% of our trim is pvc.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

BCConstruction said:


> I don't do a lot of roofs so when I do it's because someone wants my level of anal and a roof that def won't leak. It's def not a cheap way to do it but I ain't done any over 12 square. The majority of them I do are sheds so cost is minimal.


I'd go broke,:laughing:

My place is 44sq


----------



## BamBamm5144 (Jul 12, 2008)

We ice and water the bottom six feet, felt the rest then install the felt, then drip edge then starter.

The starter course is going to hang over the drip edge about 1/4" so there isn't any water getting under it anyway.

It's roofing. Don't over think it!


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

jstanton said:


> We use I&W first sandwiched between the fascia and 1x3 shadow board. Then underlay *after the first 6' of I&W*, then drip up the rakes. I have seen gutter get ice dams and leak into the trim where the drip had I&W on top of it not under.
> 
> I see no need for underlay on top of the drip. We just use ziptape on the top edge of the drip to the I&W for good measure. I will add 95% of our trim is pvc.


What type I/W you using? Ever since trying to remove shingles baked to I/W, I cover it all up now.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

JT Wood said:


> I'd go broke,:laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> My place is 44sq



Yeah that wouldn't be cheap with I&w over that whole roof.


----------



## BamBamm5144 (Jul 12, 2008)

I&W over the whole roof is so pointless and creates so many headaches. I've had to replace a fair show of roofs less than a decade old because they were covered in IW entirely. Plywood became spongy and needs to be completely replaced.

A roof can be done without any underlayments and not leak. It isn't too hard.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

BamBamm5144 said:


> I&W over the whole roof is so pointless and creates so many headaches. I've had to replace a fair show of roofs less than a decade old because they were covered in IW entirely. Plywood became spongy and needs to be completely replaced.
> 
> A roof can be done without any underlayments and not leak. It isn't too hard.



I def wouldn't wanna be pulling I&w off after it's been down even a hr. The stuff sticks like crazy.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

jstanton said:


> We use I&W first sandwiched between the fascia and 1x3 shadow board. Then underlay after the first 6' of I&W, then drip up the rakes. I have seen gutter get ice dams and leak into the trim where the drip had I&W on top of it not under.
> 
> I see no need for underlay on top of the drip. We just use ziptape on the top edge of the drip to the I&W for good measure. I will add 95% of our trim is pvc.


Job i recently did the guys brother was a builder up in N.H.did the same type of ''shadow board'' detail..thing is we tend to use gutters here


----------



## PatChap (Jun 1, 2012)

The extra layer of underlay over the ice and water is just so the shingles dont stick to it. its not required just a good idea, as bam said its just roofing. Unless things have changed out there all that's required is paper 12'' past the heated wall.
What pitch is your new home, if its 6/12 or more I wouldn't sweat the eave detailing too much.


----------



## jstanton (Mar 25, 2012)

superseal said:


> What type I/W you using? Ever since trying to remove shingles baked to I/W, I cover it all up now.


 Grace only, I never really thought about the re roof. I haven't taken a roof apart with I&W, now I feel kinda silly.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

PatChap said:


> The extra layer of underlay over the ice and water is just so the shingles dont stick to it. its not required just a good idea, as bam said its just roofing. Unless things have changed out there all that's required is paper 12'' past the heated wall.
> What pitch is your new home, if its 6/12 or more I wouldn't sweat the eave detailing too much.


Yeah, It's not uncommon to see guys run 1 row of I&W on the eave, and nothing up the rake. I'm a 5/12 .


----------



## jstanton (Mar 25, 2012)

Tom Struble said:


> Job i recently did the guys brother was a builder up in N.H.did the same type of ''shadow board'' detail..thing is we tend to use gutters here


We use gutters here also, fascia is wide enough for shadow and gutters. It's usually 1x8 or 1x10 depending on how long the runs are. Tom Silva recommends holding the drip edge 1/2" off the shadow board to avoid capillary movement.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

yea..no..not a fan


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

jstanton said:


> We use gutters here also, fascia is wide enough for shadow and gutters. It's usually 1x8 or 1x10 depending on how long the runs are. Tom Silva recommends holding the drip edge 1/2" off the shadow board to avoid capillary movement.


Do the gutters get installed below the shadow board? On a long run there is a chance youll be down 4-5" below the drip. Cant imagine that being too pleasing on the eyes.


----------



## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

Never used I&W here. Not really needed. Any pics of the shadow detail with gutter. That sounds atrocious.


----------



## Stephen H (Feb 18, 2011)

generally---we put Ice Gaurd on the lower 6 feet of the roof----but don't worry about running up the rake with it. We run titanium UDL up to the top of the roof----Ideally all the Icegaurd gets covered with the titanium for the obvious reason.

The ONLY ice gaurd we use is GRACE---and when we install it we wrap it over the edge of the roof and slightly down onto the fascia--- ideally behind the gutter. Great thing about Grace is that its really flexible--- even cold---and you can wrap it tight around a edge like that and get it to stick.

once the drip edge is installed--- if any Grace is visible( and subject to uv rays) we will slip pieces of aluminum behind the drip edge and into the gutter and secure with zip screws. (quite often with tile or slate roofs we custom make the drip edge ourselves so that it can cover all the grace in one piece)

It's rare--- but we have had several instances where ice has backed up out of the gutter and forced itself into the joint where the decking meets the fascia---fills up the soffit and melts down inside the wall.

so---standard MO for us is to wrap the edge.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

that is pretty much how it's done here,the i&w wraps the facia about 3'' and the gutter goes over that,no one uses a drip edge whether under or over,some guys i know wrap the eave with a 3x4'' bend then i&w over that holding it flush with the bend

I can honestly say in the past 15-20 years since this has become the go to method i have not seen an uv issue with exposed I&W at the eave


----------



## OVContractor (Nov 9, 2015)

jstanton said:


> We use I&W first sandwiched between the fascia and 1x3 shadow board. Then underlay after the first 6' of I&W, then drip up the rakes. I have seen gutter get ice dams and leak into the trim where the drip had I&W on top of it not under


Crew I worked with out east taught me to put I&W under the drip. If the drip is down first, ice migrates under the aluminum and up the sheathing. If the sheathing is sealed with I&W, no worries. 6' of I&W is code around here, then whatever tickles your fancy for underlay (I still prefer felt). I am a whole roof line snapper. Takes surprisingly little time compared to fussing around with each shingle to get the exposure right. In Nova Scoria we would hurricane nail too.

Whenever we did a place that had shadow boards, they were applied to the gable ends only. Fascia for eaves were left flat for gutters. The shadow board was a piece of 1x nailed off to the sub fascia and flashed over with cladding.


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

It looks like the trend to do under vs over is morphing into both actually. We just need somebody to start selling 8" I/W rolls.


----------



## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

superseal said:


> It looks like the trend to do under vs over is morphing into both actually. We just need somebody to start selling 8" I/W rolls.


Vycor comes in 9" and 4" ...they just call it Deck Protector ask your rep next time.


----------



## OVContractor (Nov 9, 2015)

Philament said:


> Vycor comes in 9" and 4" ...they just call it Deck Protector ask your rep next time.


Where do you pick up your Grace around here? I remember looking a couple of years ago and nobody seemed to carry it. I've been using BlueSkin instead


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

8" rolls would be awesome.


----------



## Philament (Dec 9, 2014)

OVContractor said:


> Where do you pick up your Grace around here? I remember looking a couple of years ago and nobody seemed to carry it. I've been using BlueSkin instead


RoofMart carries the normal 3'x75' standard vycor I&W and high temp vycor I&W for steel roofs. I get my deck protector from http://deckmasters.ca/


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

imo it's not even ice migrating,i would bet there is a bit of condensation that forms on the back of the metal covering the gap between the deck and facia,while i'm not saying it can't form on the back of the i&w it's probably less likely


----------



## SouthonBeach (Oct 18, 2012)

In the land of pleasing insurance companies, it's becoming pretty standard to I&W the whole roof. 
Drip edge first I&W over the top, if the other way we need to slather on a 4" strip of roofing tar over the drip edge. 
I'm starting to install a layer of felt over all of it to make it easy for the next guy to peel off the shingles when replacement time comes.


----------



## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

BCConstruction said:


> I don't do a lot of roofs so when I do it's because someone wants my level of anal and a roof that def won't leak. It's def not a cheap way to do it but I ain't done any over 12 square. The majority of them I do are sheds so cost is minimal.


IW over the whole roof isn't anal, it's stupid. The guys I've met who want to do that usually are doing it because they suck and can't get the roof sealed properly.

I usually do 3' of IW on the eaves after installing the drip, then felt the whole roof, including over the IW. 

I also lay it in the valleys, and if I can I like to get it under the step flashing and up the wall a little. 

And I've never seen a roofer here in Nova Scotia hurricane nail.


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

When working at Ski Hill developments which get snow measured in Feet (about 8 ft a year or more), the entire roof would get Ice and Water membrane. 
Otherwise, the code I worked with (Canadian Provincial code in BC) says you need to have I and W membrane 3 ft inside the heated portion of the building, so a single run of membrane is not enough to protect against ice damming.
Eave drip edge underneath and gable end drip edge over top.


----------



## Stephen H (Feb 18, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> imo it's not even ice migrating,i would bet there is a bit of condensation that forms on the back of the metal covering the gap between the deck and facia,while i'm not saying it can't form on the back of the i&w it's probably less likely


 At a Velux Training session several years ago we were told that condensation against the back of the flashing kit was the actual source of most reported skylight leaks and for that reason they were starting to include a baby roll of grace in every flashing kit. to get the warranty on the install you had to fully wrap the curb or frame with grace to prevent the condensation issue.

stephen


----------



## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

jlhaslip said:


> When working at Ski Hill developments which get snow measured in Feet (about 8 ft a year or more), the entire roof would get Ice and Water membrane.
> Otherwise, the code I worked with (Canadian Provincial code in BC) says you need to have I and W membrane 3 ft inside the heated portion of the building, so a single run of membrane is not enough to protect against ice damming.
> Eave drip edge underneath and gable end drip edge over top.


Are the BC rules different than the Canadian national code? 
I've never seen anyone here do more than 3 feet, and I worked with a roofing crew that had 2 red seal carpenters.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

Stephen H said:


> At a Velux Training session several years ago we were told that condensation against the back of the flashing kit was the actual source of most reported skylight leaks and for that reason they were starting to include a baby roll of grace in every flashing kit. to get the warranty on the install you had to fully wrap the curb or frame with grace to prevent the condensation issue.
> 
> stephen


I'm not sure what you mean by wrap the curb. 

Like wrap the inside and out before it's installed?


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

SamM said:


> Are the BC rules different than the Canadian national code?
> I've never seen anyone here do more than 3 feet, and I worked with a roofing crew that had 2 red seal carpenters.


I'm 99 percent sure that one row at the eaves is all that's required in Calgary. 

I've never seen it done any other way. I can't remember seeing an ice dam around here either. 


Lots of guys just put one row of 30 lb at the eaves that's it. Nothing up the rake either.


----------



## Mr Latone (Jan 8, 2011)

JT Wood said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by wrap the curb.
> 
> Like wrap the inside and out before it's installed?


Apply the I/W to the roof deck and up the sides of the unit. If moisture laden air from the attic or rafter cavity is able to directly contact the metal of the flashing, condensation can occur.


----------



## OVContractor (Nov 9, 2015)

SamM said:


> And I've never seen a roofer here in Nova Scotia hurricane nail.


We did a house out in Prospect bay, maybe 20 mins south of Halifax on the eastern shore. The place was on a finger of land literally sticking out into the Atlantic Ocean with nothing to break the wind from there to North Africa. On a calm day there was still enough breeze to blow paper out of your hand. During a storm the wind was incredible.

For that place we doubled up our nails through the body of the shingle. We also applied roofing tar from a gun under every shingle to be sure that the tar strip in the shingle would lay flat long enough for the sun to heat it sufficiently to bond. We learned the technique from a Newfoundlander out of Port of Basque who had seen entire roofs blown off days after install because shore breezes had kept shingle too cold to bond and when a storm hit there was no seal between shingle layers.

Over kill to be sure, but we never had any problems. House's further inland with wind breaks wouldn't be subject to the same wind loads.


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

JT Wood said:


> I'm 99 percent sure that one row at the eaves is all that's required in Calgary.
> 
> I've never seen it done any other way. I can't remember seeing an ice dam around here either.
> 
> ...


has nothing to do with rows,it has to do with how far past the interior of the wall you want to be,houses with large overhangs may need another ''row''


----------



## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

OVContractor said:


> We did a house out in Prospect bay, maybe 20 mins south of Halifax on the eastern shore. The place was on a finger of land literally sticking out into the Atlantic Ocean with nothing to break the wind from there to North Africa. On a calm day there was still enough breeze to blow paper out of your hand. During a storm the wind was incredible.
> 
> For that place we doubled up our nails through the body of the shingle. We also applied roofing tar from a gun under every shingle to be sure that the tar strip in the shingle would lay flat long enough for the sun to heat it sufficiently to bond. We learned the technique from a Newfoundlander out of Port of Basque who had seen entire roofs blown off days after install because shore breezes had kept shingle too cold to bond and when a storm hit there was no seal between shingle layers.
> 
> Over kill to be sure, but we never had any problems. House's further inland with wind breaks wouldn't be subject to the same wind loads.


I wouldn't call that overkill. Just prudent considering the circumstances.


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

SamM said:


> Are the BC rules different than the Canadian national code?
> I've never seen anyone here do more than 3 feet, and I worked with a roofing crew that had 2 red seal carpenters.


Not sure. I would have to check on that and don't have my code books available right now.


----------



## PatChap (Jun 1, 2012)

JT Wood said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by wrap the curb.
> 
> Like wrap the inside and out before it's installed?


On a deck mount, you would pull the metal off the side and wrap the deck and up the side with their ice and water. On a curb mounted skylight you would wrap the curb, and velux doesn't require you use their product just that its a smooth surfaced product.

The code here, and im pretty sure in ab doesnt mention how many rows are required, just that you need to pass the inside wall by a minimum of 12'' with a minimum of 30lb felt. 
Covering the entire deck with paper isnt required by code, but on a 5/12 Its definitely a good idea, and depending on which manufacturer you use may be required for warranty. 
The Canadian brand we use a lot of requires it up to 7/12, optional past there.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

I'm using flextex gold for underlay I can't believe how much traction it provides. I've never used a synthetic underlay before but I like it. 


I've got a half roll of blueskin in my sea can. I was planning to use it on my skylight. It's a 46x46 curb mount. 

I misunderstood, I thought I was reading that I needed to fully wrap the curb .
I couldn't for the life of me figure out why that was recommended. :laughing:


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

whats a sea can?


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

One of these


----------



## Tom Struble (Mar 2, 2007)

seems like a big container for a roll of Blueskin..:blink:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

*Tell Me About Drip Edge.*



SamM said:


> IW over the whole roof isn't anal, it's stupid. The guys I've met who want to do that usually are doing it because they suck and can't get the roof sealed properly.
> 
> I usually do 3' of IW on the eaves after installing the drip, then felt the whole roof, including over the IW.
> 
> ...



It's not stupid at all. It just costs more. Nothing stupid about adding a extra bit of security. The roofs I have put it on and the sheds really required it because it was such a low pitch. Just because it's not a method you have used it don't make it stupid.

The last roof I looked at that was put on just 3 weeks prior was leaking because they didn't I&w the whole roof. Bet they though putting ice and water on the whole roof was stupid too. The roofing company said it was not needed shingle company said it was.

The roofing company blamed the window installers lol.


----------



## JT Wood (Dec 17, 2007)

Tom Struble said:


> seems like a big container for a roll of Blueskin..:blink:


It's in there somewhere :laughing:


----------



## SamM (Dec 13, 2009)

BamBamm5144 said:


> I&W over the whole roof is so pointless and creates so many headaches. I've had to replace a fair show of roofs less than a decade old because they were covered in IW entirely. Plywood became spongy and needs to be completely replaced.
> 
> A roof can be done without any underlayments and not leak. It isn't too hard.










BCConstruction said:


> It's not stupid at all. It just costs more. Nothing stupid about adding a extra bit of security. The roofs I have put it on and the sheds really required it because it was such a low pitch. Just because it's not a method you have used it don't make it stupid.
> 
> The last roof I looked at that was put on just 3 weeks prior was leaking because they didn't I&w the whole roof. Bet they though putting ice and water on the whole roof was stupid too. The roofing company said it was not needed shingle company said it was.
> 
> The roofing company blamed the window installers lol.


The roofer disagrees with you.

A low slope is a different animal. Ice and Water is a viable option, though I usually push towards steel at that point


----------



## BamBamm5144 (Jul 12, 2008)

A low slope shouldn't have shingles on it.

I'll still stand behind what I say and say that I&W over a whole roof is pointless.

Actually, if everyone didn't feel the need to make it seem important, I wouldn't use it at all.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

SamM said:


> The roofer disagrees with you.
> 
> A low slope is a different animal. Ice and Water is a viable option, though I usually push towards steel at that point



Well the roofer was clearly wrong in this situation as the roof leaked because he didn't flow the shingle manufacturers instructions and the HO had no warranty because of this. 

Ignore what the manufacturer says is your choice. I will follow their instructions to keep warranty intact.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

BamBamm5144 said:


> A low slope shouldn't have shingles on it.
> 
> I'll still stand behind what I say and say that I&W over a whole roof is pointless.
> 
> Actually, if everyone didn't feel the need to make it seem important, I wouldn't use it at all.



shingle manufacturers say it's fine as long as you follow their instructions. I don't write these rules they do.


----------



## OVContractor (Nov 9, 2015)

If it was so low sloped as to require I&W over the entire roof, wouldn't torch down be a better choice? If I am looking at a very low slope or even just a very tricky spot to make water tight I spec torch down. 

My roofers, local guys in the business for over 30 years now, are certified to do torch down, metal and slate as well as good ol asphalt. 

If it was me looking at a shingle that said right in it's specs that it couldn't keep a roof water tight without a full I&W base, you better believe it would not be going on the damn roof.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

OVContractor said:


> If it was so low sloped as to require I&W over the entire roof, wouldn't torch down be a better choice? If I am looking at a very low slope or even just a very tricky spot to make water tight I spec torch down.
> 
> My roofers, local guys in the business for over 30 years now, are certified to do torch down, metal and slate as well as good ol asphalt.
> 
> If it was me looking at a shingle that said right in it's specs that it couldn't keep a roof water tight without a full I&W base, you better believe it would not be going on the damn roof.



Well they wanted shingles and shingles are capable to use on the slope they had so they went for them. Problem was the roofer didn't think it needed I&W so it leaked. It wouldn't have leaked it it had I&W so not only did the roofer blame the window guys they lost their warranty too. 

If the shingles were not capable for the job they wouldn't say they can be used. Same reason I use it on shed's as there hardly any slope on them. Sometimes less than 1/12 depending on design.


----------



## OVContractor (Nov 9, 2015)

BCConstruction said:


> Well they wanted shingles and shingles are capable to use on the slope they had so they went for them. Problem was the roofer didn't think it needed I&W so it leaked. It wouldn't have leaked it it had I&W so not only did the roofer blame the window guys they lost their warranty too.
> 
> If the shingles were not capable for the job they wouldn't say they can be used. Same reason I use it on shed's as there hardly any slope on them. Sometimes less than 1/12 depending on design.


I have clients tell me stuff they "want" all the time. It's my job as the professional to advise them about the limitations of products and the acceptable alternatives which ensure a successful and properly executed build. 

1/12 qualifies as a flat roof, and shingles are not an acceptable solution. Snow load and melt alone would cause failure, I don't care how much adhesive backed membrane you apply (I&W). A torch down roof would be the only method I would even consider in that application.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

*Tell Me About Drip Edge.*



OVContractor said:


> I have clients tell me stuff they "want" all the time. It's my job as the professional to advise them about the limitations of products and the acceptable alternatives which ensure a successful and properly executed build.
> 
> 1/12 qualifies as a flat roof, and shingles are not an acceptable solution. Snow load and melt alone would cause failure, I don't care how much adhesive backed membrane you apply (I&W). A torch down roof would be the only method I would even consider in that application.



You put torch down roofs on shed's! That's a new one.

And who said anything about clients telling me what they want!


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

BCConstruction said:


> I do. They still need to stay dry inside and it's cheap insurance for such a small area. Most I do only need 1 roll and that covers most of the roof.



Different around here. Guys leave it out on areas with no heat 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

NYgutterguy said:


> Different around here. Guys leave it out on areas with no heat
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I don't specifically use it in shed's because of ice damning. It's mainly for the low slopes and to give me a chance to dry the roof in as I don't get the shingles on right after that's put on. Sometimes it's a few weeks depending on work load. Some of them are heated though with no loft area so heat travels right up to the roof so they do ice damn at times.


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

BCConstruction said:


> I don't specifically use it in shed's because of ice damning. It's mainly for the low slopes and to give me a chance to dry the roof in as I don't get the shingles on right after that's put on. Sometimes it's a few weeks depending on work load. Some of them are heated though with no loft area so heat travels right up to the roof so they do ice damn at times.



I hear ya with the low pitch and not putting on right away... Makes sense. I/w just came out as I was giving up roofing. 

My father and grandfather were roofers too just going over good ole tarpaper. They would be amazed with the different products out there now 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman (Jun 29, 2009)

It's one of them things that for what it costs it's worth using just in case. I have seen some roofs that leak through nail penetrations in bad storms where wind blows water up under the shingles. If I&w was used im almost certain them same roofs wouldn't have leaked.


----------



## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

So Im skimming through the IRC 2015 this mourning and looked in the roof section.

It is now code to use drip cap on eaves and rakes. It wasnt in the 2009. Historically its hit or miss around here. I seldom used it. Manufacturers suggest it. I'm more open to using it on eaves than on rakes. With rakes you get bowed fascia and different colored trim.

I dont like this. Roofs require permits and I doubt most inspectors do more than drive by. Another added cost to the job.


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Curious to see if it will be used more around here. If it's only a manufacturer suggestion I doubt much will change. Even the high end roofers I work for avoid drip. 

My friend is a local BI. Gonna ask him about it 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

2012 required it as well

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_9_par032.htm


----------



## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

NYgutterguy said:


> Curious to see if it will be used more around here. If it's only a manufacturer suggestion I doubt much will change. Even the high end roofers I work for avoid drip.
> 
> My friend is a local BI. Gonna ask him about it
> 
> ...


Something I don,t even give second thought too. If shingles are going back on it gets drip edge. To much of a hassle for me when doing soffit and fascia when it is not on.

Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Randy Bush said:


> Something I don,t even give second thought too. If shingles are going back on it gets drip edge. To much of a hassle for me when doing soffit and fascia when it is not on.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk



Too much of a hassle because you use the pre bent steel fascia? Would it become wavy if wasn't going under a drip?


----------



## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

NYgutterguy said:


> Too much of a hassle because you use the pre bent steel fascia? Would it become wavy if wasn't going under a drip?


Yes with the pre bent. With no drip edge I have to put sill trim up against the bottom side of the shingles to hold the top of the fascia in place. Doing this way I don,t have to face nail.

Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Randy why on earth would you use pre bent?

I dont like it because it increases cost. Not much but...
I dont like that rakes have different colors
Rakes can have waves that 10'edging will mess with.
Eaves I see often have a large gap between fascia and gutter sometimes more than the drip can cover.
That forces you to have coil and a brake with you.
I also dont like it on eaves with steep slopes.

If the slope is low its good
When I have T&G that has an overhang I will cut it off, if not I like a drip cap over it.


----------



## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Tom M said:


> Randy why on earth would you use pre bent?
> 
> I dont like it because it increases cost. Not much but...
> I dont like that rakes have different colors
> ...


Why would I use it? 

For me it is cost efficient, A roll of aluminum coil cost me $100 plus freight which will make 150ft of 6" costing about 70cents a foot plus labor to make. or $1.20 a foot for steel coil. Where 10' pieces of 6' Fascia cost me right at $10 a piece. 
IMO it is more durable, better looking and easier to deal with. 
I only make fascia when it is a custom deal , made some this past summer where I could only get 1 piece out of every 10 ft. 

Any color of fascia I use I can get matching drip edge. 

I know you guys back east do things different , but here pretty much everyone uses pre-made.


----------



## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Wasn't looking to offend you Randy. I'm not a fan and the need for rolls on a job for rakes and windows or flashing make it a no brainer to me. I z bend all eaves for ridgity and here 95% of the houses have 1x2 over 1x6 going on rakes. Some flush with the sheathing, some butting up to it.


----------



## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

Tom M said:


> Wasn't looking to offend you Randy. I'm not a fan and the need for rolls on a job for rakes and windows or flashing make it a no brainer to me. I z bend all eaves for ridgity and here 95% of the houses have 1x2 over 1x6 going on rakes. Some flush with the sheathing, some butting up to it.


No problem. We all do things different ways for different reasons. 

Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

Randy Bush said:


> No problem. We all do things different ways for different reasons.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk


I'm with you, prebent is the main way for me.


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

A&E Exteriors said:


> I'm with you, prebent is the main way for me.



Does it have the ridges or is it smooth ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

NYgutterguy said:


> Does it have the ridges or is it smooth ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ribbed or textured, customers choice....usually ribbed


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

A&E Exteriors said:


> Ribbed or textured, customers choice....usually ribbed



Textured ? Like PVC coated ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## A&E Exteriors (Aug 14, 2009)

NYgutterguy said:


> Textured ? Like PVC coated ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah...woodgrain looking


----------



## Randy Bush (Mar 7, 2011)

A&E Exteriors said:


> Yeah...woodgrain looking


Pretty much same for me. Most of mine comes from Aside Supply. Although have one builder that does not like the ribs so I have to use Rolex for him. 

Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk


----------



## NYgutterguy (Mar 3, 2014)

Randy Bush said:


> Pretty much same for me. Most of mine comes from Aside Supply. Although have one builder that does not like the ribs so I have to use Rolex for him.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk



Ribs only on pre fab here. PVC coated I might see a hand full of times a year. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

