# 2x12" construction board for stair tread??



## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

Weird stair treads .. 

I will post a photo tonight to help with reference.

I am using wood flooring that is being installed upstairs floors on the stairs. I pulled the carpet on the stairs up, and found some odd stair treads .. It appears as if they are 2x12" construction grade boards (something i'd find laying around a construction site to use as a plank when I used to paint). They also hang over the lip a good inch. 

The stairwell is kind of a "Y" shape with it opening up at the bottom. 

So .. do I need to rip out the current treads, and replace them with a thinner version with less of an over hang? Or can I fill the void from the lip to the riser, and put a finished riser board from the bottom of the stair to the top of the 2" tread?

Thanks in advance!


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## mako1 (Sep 1, 2013)

Your post is a little confusing.OK,a lot confusing.What are the finished stairs supposed to be.
It is common practice for a tread to overhang the riser with a bullnose.Why would you want thinner treads.What kind of stringers are under the stairs and at what spacing?


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

mako1 said:


> Your post is a little confusing.OK,a lot confusing.What are the finished stairs supposed to be.
> It is common practice for a tread to overhang the riser with a bullnose.Why would you want thinner treads.What kind of stringers are under the stairs and at what spacing?


The finished product will be wood flooring with a bullnose. 

When I tore out the carpet, the current treads appear to be 2"x12" construction planks. 

So, when I put the stair bullnose piece on the edge, it covers 3/8" of the 2" face, then the riser sits about 1" back under the current tread.

I guess, do I tear out the 2x12's and put in just a full sized finished tread, and forget the flooring. Or do I figure out how to use the bullnose and flooring?

I'll post a photo of it when I get home, its kind of hard to explain, but its been bugging the heck out of me since i uncovered it.


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## JR Shepstone (Jul 14, 2011)

Keep in mind what your riser heights are so that whatever you do, you aren't taking them out of code compliance. 

If I understand correctly, the house originally had carpet up the steps and on the second-floor floor. You're adding hardwood upstairs and want the stair treads to match. 

Because they used a 2x12 as a tread and carpeted over it, when you put your new treads on, you have the bullnose and the bottom corner of the 2x12 is exposed. 

Considering the bullnose sticks over the original tread, can you pad out the riser to bring it flush with the 2x12 tread, while keeping the steps code compliant?


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

JR Shepstone said:


> Considering the bullnose sticks over the original tread, can you pad out the riser to bring it flush with the 2x12 tread, while keeping the steps code compliant?



Awesome, that's what I figured was the "easiest" way to fix it, and run the riser from the bottom of the step to the bottom of the bullnose, I just wasn't sure if that was a feasible option. 

That way, nothing will effect the heights, etc.as I will be putting 3/8 flooring.

It wont be hard to rip down some boards to make the *current* tread flush with the risers.

My last worry, is a couple of the 2x12's look a hair cupped in the middles. Is there anything I can do to make that flat? 

The best part of this, is 3 pieces of flooring and the bullnose fit perfectly on the steps.


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## Warren (Feb 19, 2005)

Using 2x12 lumber was a common way for production builders to cut costs. Obviously the finish stairs had to be carpeted. I have not done a set like that for many years, but my own home actually has the same thing. I would never assume that there are finished treads under carpeting.


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## VinylHanger (Jul 14, 2011)

We just pulled some carpet and thought we would have nice oak treads like the rest of the house. Nope, ugly partical board. You never know.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

VinylHanger said:


> We just pulled some carpet and thought we would have nice oak treads like the rest of the house. Nope, ugly partical board. You never know.


I'd love to have had ugly particle board.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

Here are the photos.

There is a split in the second tread, doesn't squeak but annoys me.

Also, I double checked, there is definitely a hair of cupping going on in the centers of them.

Thanks for the help everyone!

FYI: if any one was wondering that is bellawood 3/8" red oak solid.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

Also, what sort of material should I use for the risers? If I fill the void and run the riser up onto the 2x12 lip, it won't be a standard size, and I will want something as thin as possible.


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## JR Shepstone (Jul 14, 2011)

Why not just rip the treads off and start fresh? 

Maybe double up some 3/4" advantech? Same thickness, dead flat. Glued and screwed together. No humps. No squeaks. No crappy edges. 

Then the bottom piece of the "sandwich" can be cut flush with the face of the riser, and the top piece can fully support your new finish tread.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

JR Shepstone said:


> Why not just rip the treads off and start fresh?
> 
> Maybe double up some 3/4" advantech? Same thickness, dead flat. Glued and screwed together. No humps. No squeaks. No crappy edges.
> 
> Then the bottom piece of the "sandwich" can be cut flush with the face of the riser, and the top piece can fully support your new finish tread.


I do like that idea. And tend to lean towards just doing it right the first time. The stair nose I have is the same brand, typical stuff.

Also, it will be interesting to see what they did on the upper steps, there are three standard size steps above the pseudo landing there. It "looks" like they used something smaller... oh well, I'll find that out this weekend.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

I think I'm going to go the route of the advantech sandwiched together to replace the current treads. That way I can end the tread at the riser so things line up properly for the hardwood flooring install over it.

I'll continue to post photos as I progress, might be a bit slow but i'll get there :thumbup:.

If anyone else has any tips or ideas I'm always open to them!


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

I did that not too long ago. Tore off the plank tread and risers, then added 3/4 plywood. Then ran 5/8 for the riser, but flush with the top of the new tread. Then one more layer of 3/4 on the tread, flush with the front of the riser. I glued and screwed the bajeezus out of it.


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

It's nice because you can see how the stringers are doing underneath , and replace any cracked ones.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

TaylorMadeCon said:


> It's nice because you can see how the stringers are doing underneath , and replace any cracked ones.


Actually, I house some equipment under that area, there is a closet on the lower level behind it, and I cut a hole where the stairs goes in, and framed off a tiny area, and boxed it in. Just some power line conditioners for the home theatre setup.

So, the stringers looked great, all five of them


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## Texas Wax (Jan 16, 2012)

Is winder step/pie shaped landing 3/4" ply/osb and not 2x. May have to get creative to cut that one back.


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

Texas Wax said:


> Is winder step/pie shaped landing 3/4" ply/osb and not 2x. May have to get creative to cut that one back.


I'll know tonight, I'm tearing off the rest of the carpet. I'm sure its something goofy, and then, i'm sure the three last steps going up that are standard size, are also the 3/4 single.

The landing I'll just cut the lip back if its 3/4, I can tolerate that. And I figure if the steps are over hung OSB, I'll just replace those with a "correct" sized OSB w/no lip.

I'll toss some pictures up tonight when i get past the landing/stair/whatever the heck that is.


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## TaylorMadeAB (Nov 11, 2014)

Just make sure each tread ends up being the same depth(width). That could be a tripping hazard


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## dieboy (Jun 21, 2011)

My plan is to basically replicate each tread, with out the lip, and with better quality material, rather than the current lipped, and semi cupped and beat up material.


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