# Closing in ditch



## magnet (Apr 20, 2008)

I've got a job to close in ditch in front of house using 15" black flex pipe.Do they make a fitting to connect flex pipe to concrete culverts.I priced the job @ 4.00 a foot.Where do yall think I stand price wise.The ditch just needs to be cleaned out a little put pipe in and backfilled. Also is their any way to figure out how much dirt will be needed to cover up pipe. I have a min of 10 yards I have to buy and am worried I may have to much for 20' of pipe.dirt will cost 8.00 yard. Thank's for any advice.


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

What the hell? :blink: Am I reading this right? 

You are planning to install 20' of pipe @ $4/ft which = $80.00 and included with this is fill which you will purchase @ $8/yd and you have ordered 10 yards = $80.00.

I hope you do not have to supply the pipe as well.

But to answer your question, I don't know if they make an adapter to go from plastic pipe to concrete pipe. I would guess not. maybe you can throw in a yard or so of concrete to make the transition.

Not seeing the depth and breadth of the ditch it would be impossible to estimate the fill required from here. 

Oh, by the way welcome to the site.


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## cdub (Feb 4, 2008)

If it were mine, I would pour a concrete collar to connect the HDPE to the concrete pipe. 

I am curious about your price. Is $4.00/ft for 20' correct? If so, your bonding company might get concerned about your profit margin on this one. 

As far as the dirt quantity, it just depends on the ditch.


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## cdub (Feb 4, 2008)

Sorry I sounded redundant, Tom beat my post.


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## afg (Feb 23, 2008)

Homeowner pays for material


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## tgeb (Feb 9, 2006)

I didn't think any one typed slower than me! :thumbup1:


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## dayexco (Mar 4, 2006)

the term...screwd like a housecat comes to mind


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## Big Chris (Dec 3, 2006)

I wouldn't even load my backhoe and haul it to the site for $80.:no:

Granted I'm not an excavator either...


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## cexcavation (Apr 17, 2008)

In my opinion,Per foot pricing only works on bigger jobs where production can be maximized to compensate for all the shannanigans you have to go through just to get started. I personally bid all the smaller jobs on a case by case and it is on an hourly basis, with a minimum hour requirement-including transport. I would get $250 just for equipment on that job and make sure that they got their money's worth, i.e. if there is time left over, pluck out some shrubs or something so they feel good about the good deal they got. Point being, you can't make any money dragging equipment around for nothing when fuel is $4.00 a gallon. Keep tabs on what your local rental yards are charging for your machine and that should help boost your confidence. 

As far as transitioning from the concrete to abs, it would all depend on the ID and OD dimensions. If you can stub into the concrete with something that helps. I have done this with smaller stuff by running into the concrete 18" or so and then mix up a batch of quick set grout around the lip. Make sure everything is properly bed, and you should have no issues of pullout/leakage on a low pressure setup like this. Good Luck!!!:thumbsup:


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## pottsgroverc (Apr 17, 2008)

We use inserta tee fittings. You will have to core drill a hole in the concrete pipe first. Then the inserta teen pops right in. It is easy.


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## cexcavation (Apr 17, 2008)

I think he is trying to just extend a concrete culvert rather than tap into it. I might have read the post wrong though...it wouldn't be the first time


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## cdub (Feb 4, 2008)

tgeb said:


> I didn't think any one typed slower than me! :thumbup1:


 I cheated. I'm retarded. You can be number one:clap:


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## rino1494 (Jan 31, 2006)

I wouldn't even get out of bed for $80.


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## pottsgroverc (Apr 17, 2008)

cexcavation said:


> I think he is trying to just extend a concrete culvert rather than tap into it. I might have read the post wrong though...it wouldn't be the first time


Oh, I get it now. For $4.00 per foot, I wouldn't pour a concrete collar. Especially with the price of concrete now. Just shove the 15" pipe inside the concrete pipe and maybe (if you have some lying around) wrap fabric around the joint. ***Disclaimer: The above process is not the correct way to perform work and should only be attempted when the bare minimum is required and possible. I assume no responsibility when a sink hole forms over this joint. However, I will fix it on a T&M basis. Contact me for rates...LOL!!!


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