# Glass Jointers



## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Anyone use them regularly? They sure are costly as they don't last very long. Ten masons using average 2 ea. per week. That's 100$ a week just because of colored mortar and polished/ ground face block. Anyone found a alternative that has been successful? Job duration works out to just north of 1k for jointing. That is if the masons don't lose, break or wear them prematurely and cost more out of pocket to company. I know of a few tricks to add a little life, when a mason starts the complaining about theirs being worn out prematurely.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Do you also use glass runners/sleds?


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Never seen them in our area. These are thumbs 5/8"


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

How much each again?...


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Were getting bulk rate 5$ ea.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Okay I re-read it,...for ten masons that ain't much.That get's figured into the job with ease I would think???

So obviously scratching the units and burning the joint are the issues?

I always joint up my glass block with regular steel and size it accordingly. I use Federal white too.

Striking up a little early certainly helps :thumbsup:


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

This is a buff called color closely matched to the block. We didn't have any issue with the interior 8". They jointed nicely with hubbards. The exterior veneers have some type of sealed composition to aide against water penetration. So the mortar won't set up normally as in water dissipation in unit from mortar is non existent. Proper dryness of mortar takes hours. This was never calculated in the bid. Non the less any profit shaving doesn't set well. Live and learn best teacher is experience.


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## jomama (Oct 25, 2008)

heck, I can get plexiglass jointers to last for years, maybe decades, but I understand your issue on a job like this. When I've needed custom plastic stuff in the past, I just went to a local plastic supplier/wholesaler/production place and told them what I needed. I wouldn't be surprised that they could heat-bend offsets in a harder style plastic round stock for you for a fraction of what you're paying now. Might be worth a try?


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Tried jointing early, but spec reads thumb print hard. Even then as soon as the hubbards touch joints the moisture is pulled to surface. On close inspection by the ACOE rep. he didn't like the wavy or water lines pulled up. Any mortar does this but with normal CMU never an issue. Wipe work with a nice horse hair brush and joints look great. These block require a special technique to rub them off which still leaves the undesirable joint achievement. This mortar has to be almost set hard to joint out acceptable for the inspector. One shot deal also re jointing not possible as mortar will start to separate due to level of dryness needed to pacify jointing effect required. More to the finesse side of masonry. Being dealt with though hope not to draw this inspector any time soon.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

Plexiglass are dirt cheap and disposable.


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Tscarborough said:


> Plexiglass are dirt cheap and disposable.


Thanks for clearing that up. LOL. Not the point of the post. A very wise and might I add wealthy man once told me. Money lost on a job is always lost and can never be recouped. So once it's gone it's gone and not coming back. My point being 1k for something not calculated from the start is a hard pill to swallow. The little things add up and the total can get out of control. Now a days every penny counts to our company. Especially when those dollars are coming out of my expense account. Monies left in said account at the end of job are a portion of my profit. I don't know anyone that likes giving money away first and foremost ME!


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

No experience with exactly what you are talking about, but... I find that wood jointers (I usually use the handle of my slicker/tuckpointer) help with wet joints quite a bit. If they aren't thumbprint hard a wood slicker can suck enough moisture off tho allow for a decent joint. Maybe try it first thing in the morning that way if it doesn't work you still have the day to use the glass or steel jointers


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Thanks dom-mas can't hurt to give it a try. Just have to make sure ACOE rep is preoccupied.


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## dom-mas (Nov 26, 2011)

If you do use a wood jointer, i suggest waiting 1/2 hr before wiping them with a brush.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

A wise and also wealthy man told me, if you aren't making money on the job, fire the estimator.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Must be slow go laying them up too I suppose. You getting any squatters 
if you move too fast?... Stupid question I know 

Mud has to be perfect for that job...

The only wood jointers I own are for stonework,...I suppose you could miter up some wood dowels and use TBII for glue up. Keep rotating them to keep them dry, worth a try!


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Tscarborough said:


> A wise and also wealthy man told me, if you aren't making money on the job, fire the estimator.


Don't recall saying we or I'm losing money or not making money. I can't imagine a PM that carries a crystal ball to aide on a take off or estimated cost to complete issue that occurs during work phase. Government contracts are so to speak guaranteed pay checks/ draws per percentages complete at time of pay request. No blame intended or implied. The material, product used along with a perfectionist as a daily inspector ( ACOE) were the sole contributing factors that brought about an invisible factor to the mix. We all know that a buffer is bid in automatically generated by percentages. I'm just going to miss my 1k for darn jointers. Repetitive loss due to foreseeable overlooked givens would be just cause for termination of any level employees.


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

superseal said:


> Must be slow go laying them up too I suppose. You getting any squatters
> if you move too fast?... Stupid question I know
> 
> Mud has to be perfect for that job...
> ...


You Sir are correct. The mortar must be perfect, but that is one of the basics of our Art/ Trade that has to be maintained to pull off most jobs. Yeah no stellar production days. But we bid at a low unit per mason ratio and were awarded the bid. No punch list to worry about with this inspector, he and I have a long time working relationship. Do what he says when he says it and at BOD final draw comes without a lot of b.s. FYI these are 4" versus the 8" interior used.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

If tool cost makes you lose profit on a project, you are figuring it too close. Especially something as insignificant as jointers. You should be able to enhance your tool inventory on a job, not lose money on it.


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Not many companies I have experienced supply tools. Masons bring what they need to do their job. This is the first job in my 30+ year career that the masons normally carried tools weren't enough to complete task at hand. Maybe some others can add my experience in this case to their memory banks. Experience seems to be the best teacher in these cases.


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## Tscarborough (Feb 25, 2006)

If the hand tools are special, the contractor should supply the first iteration, after that it is on the mason. If you had no idea that specialized tools would be needed, it goes back to the estimator.


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

That's were the expense account comes in to play. We are always left with a very comfortable buffer. It covers the unforeseen expenses that can and do from time to time arise.


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## superseal (Feb 4, 2009)

Take some pics heavy, I'd like to see what your working with...


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

superseal said:


> Take some pics heavy, I'd like to see what your working with...


I will try, it is military post secured at that. Most jobs no phones or cameras. Now we are being videotaped from north, south, east and west 4 darn cameras. I might be able to go covert, but don't want the MP's taking me to the brig!!! Then posting it on web not sure what my future out come could be. If I can I will!


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## Bobble head 1 (Feb 20, 2013)

We bag the joints wipe the face with a piece of burlap. Strike bag let it set up, strike brush then polish. Burlap bag works good light acid wash maybe that'll help.


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## heavyc (Jul 2, 2013)

Bobble head 1 said:


> We bag the joints wipe the face with a piece of burlap. Strike bag let it set up, strike brush then polish. Burlap bag works good light acid wash maybe that'll help.


Thank you for info. Burlap for our work went out when they quit putting livestock feed in them. As far as glass block the best method still is the burlap.


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## Fancis Casini (Jan 31, 2013)

*wood jointers*

I'm surpised to hear that suggested They work good when you get the hang of the timing ie when to press hard in reverse and do a nice slicking.We poinetd alot of brick buildings an doubled back with the broom handles they are amaxing blendrs at the brick edges and life savers when things get a little too hard on ya..that's when you go both ways like a rasp then reverse at the end. We would rat tail one end and flat the other. Brick veneer jobs look good with them especially colonila styled....

my father would tell me storys how his boss would go in the woods and come out with one to do the job......we also would soak them which no doubt is the advantage of a fressh cut one! The women love the brooms too.lol
:laughing::laughing:


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## Fancis Casini (Jan 31, 2013)

*burlap*

nice,a life saver in cold ...we always loved to use it.


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