# Deck stair code problem?



## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

This is my first set of stairs.

Local code follows IRC. I am following IRC. (attempting)

I'm struggling with the stringer layout. The left side will meet code, but the right side will not....

because...

The right side is 3/4" higher than the left on the deck. And also the right side landing cement has settled by more than an inch.

What do you do in this case? Try to meet code best you can? I currently plan to keep the top tread of the stringer level. So the left side will meet code but the right side will have a 3/4" larger step only at the top. Everything below will be uniform until the bottom step. Which then will have a 1 inch difference side to side because of the settled cement.


Thoughts?

Thank you


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

Cannot post my photos right now... 

"missing security token..."?


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

What is your overall height from bottom to top? Can you add more treads and make the stringer length longer by shortening the riser height. You've got between 4 inches to 7 inches to play with. I'm sure you can find some number in the middle that will comply if you add another tread. If you have the room at the base of the stairs for an extra tread. 


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

Lest say 8' rise. Riser height would be 7 3/8". 13 risers and 12 treads. But with 14 risers and 13 treads you would have a riser of 6 7/8" 


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

Total rise is---- 
43 1/8th on the left side and 44 1/8 on the right (roughly)

There is a cement "curb" in the way where they set the old stairs on. I do have some room to stretch it out further and clear the curb and still meet the 3 ft landing, but I was trying to keep in line with the current hand rail, but may have to protrude past it.


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

hmmm...

With all do respect. I think you may be missing my question. 

I (think) understand the code and how to find my rise and run.

I'm asking how to deal with uneven surfaces.

If your facing the stairs and go to walk up them. The left is smaller than the right.

1 inch lower at the bottom on the right.
3/4" higher at the top on the right.


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## Rio (Oct 13, 2009)

Make the top even and work out the difference when you get to grade. If the deck is pitched split the difference from one side of the stair to the other.


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## Builders Inc. (Feb 24, 2015)

New railing or pour a cap on the concrete landing. I'd make sure you don't overextend the stairs to a point you fail to meet code with the handrail. 


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

Wouldn't I then have side ways sloped stairs?


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## CPMKW (Apr 28, 2014)

Set the top tread level, splitting the difference in the slope.

Do this be adding the left measurement and the right measurement and dividing it in half. Mark the centre point of your stairs and hang the the top tread level down this measurement.

Calculate your overall rise from this centre point as well. When cutting your stringers, leave the bottom rise long and scribe it to the ground. 

So pretty much ignore the sloping deck and the sloping grade. Make the centre of the stair run legal and even. 

Clear as mud?


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

:thumbup::clap:

thank you


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

Is like trying to pick a turd up by the clean end. But I agree with Rio.


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## WalnutBuilders (Sep 24, 2016)

tucnasam said:


> hmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Build as normal until you get the the end of the run. At that point, you scribe the lowest riser to the ground/concrete pad...which will result in an uneven riser of course.


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## greg24k (May 19, 2007)

tucnasam said:


> hmmm...
> 
> With all do respect. I think you may be missing my question.
> 
> ...


You will be fine... You can have 1 1/2" max at walkways or driveways.


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

Where do you find that in the irc? All I've read is rise and run must not exceed the smallest by 3/8".

Everything went well except for the right bottom rise dips off about an inch.

I'm probably just paranoid and the stairs turned out great


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

If you want to be technical you need to have a stripe on the tread or some kind of indicator to alert the person.

Where are you working? Not my area I hope I can't be helping you underbid me. Lol.

In the building planning section, chapter 2 something like 311


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

I build the Carriage to the high side, fabricate it on the ground then cut down the bottom riser using a straight edge marking low to high. slice with a saw bevel then notch in a cleat


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## Tom M (Jan 3, 2007)

Tom M said:


> If you want to be technical you need to have a stripe on the tread or some kind of indicator to alert the person.
> 
> In the building planning section, chapter 2 something like 311


Scratch that, it's an IBC thing for public way. It's not going to be enforced on residential work. Just work off the center line of travel.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

tucnasam said:


> Where do you find that in the irc? All I've read is rise and run must not exceed the smallest by 3/8".
> 
> Everything went well except for the right bottom rise dips off about an inch.
> 
> I'm probably just paranoid and the stairs turned out great


I swear I read that same thing Greg was talking about. But I can't find it in the 2012 irc.


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## tucnasam (Feb 1, 2016)

2012 or 2015???

I assume not much changed between them.


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## Calidecks (Nov 19, 2011)

tucnasam said:


> 2012 or 2015???
> 
> I assume not much changed between them.


To be honest the last I saw that was probably 2009 book or before


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## Irishslave (Jun 20, 2010)

I've scribed kadjillions of em to unlevel pads....I don't like doing it....I'd rather level the pad...if the stairs are 4' or wider...it's a given if it's sloped to any degree it's getting leveled...


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