# New Trailer Setup



## Roofcheck

Jeff G said:


> Madmark,
> 
> That is ultra-swwwweeeeeeeeet!
> 
> I am curious do you have the wall cabinets set up is such a fashion that various items such as cans of wd-40, spray paint/primer, cleaning solutions, spray adhesives, an the veritable sundry of other similar items from rolling around/being tossed about?
> 
> Perhaps, one day, when I grow up, I can acquire a similar set up.
> 
> Great job!


Champion thread derailer? After 6 posts?


----------



## Madmak

svronthmve said:


> There's a lot of weight in there with all that lumber. Are you planning on carrying that all the time?
> 
> Trailer looks nice.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, why the electrical cords running through the holes into the trailer?
> 
> One thing you may also want to consider is an area for a workbench. You've got things pretty tight in there & sometimes it's nice to be able to work on something inside the trailer (when raining, snowing, etc.).


I chose to run two circuits in the trailer and feed them with pigtails that I can plug extension cords in to. I used a small access panel for these cords and one for air lines so I can keep them connected and lock the trailer up tight. 

I have two countertop areas inside but also two tables for outdoors. I plan on adding an awning as well but in winter it's inside the job site only. 

The lumber comes and goes bit I keep a few of everything in there, saves trips to the store during the day. The MDF is heavy but the 2Xs aren't bad.


----------



## Madmak

BCConstruction said:


> Nice setup. but is that your full time tow vehicle? I used to use a Cherokee jeep to pull my trailer. Think it only had a tow capacity of 3300lbs the way it was spec'd. It was geared all wrong to tow with as well. once you load that trailer up your gonna have a lot of weight on that tongue.


It's an Overland Hemi edition, 7700 lbs towing capacity, air suspension (self levelling), and 400+ HP. It does a pretty decent job with this trailer and my 23' 6000 lb travel trailer. It will have to do for now...


----------



## User602

Roofcheck said:


> Champion thread derailer? After 6 posts?


Ha! give it time, just give it some time.

In all seriousness, I posted here a few years ago, and left due to health issues that resulted in my having to give up my profession as well. But, now I'm back, somewhat, to good, and back to perusing this forum.


----------



## Madmak

Jeff G said:


> Madmark,
> 
> That is ultra-swwwweeeeeeeeet!
> 
> I am curious do you have the wall cabinets set up is such a fashion that various items such as cans of wd-40, spray paint/primer, cleaning solutions, spray adhesives, an the veritable sundry of other similar items from rolling around/being tossed about?
> 
> Perhaps, one day, when I grow up, I can acquire a similar set up.
> 
> Great job!


Thanks Jeff G, I'm working on those little details but ya, the cabinets are getting some dividers and such.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Madmak said:


> It's an Overland Hemi edition, 7700 lbs towing capacity, air suspension (self levelling), and 400+ HP. It does a pretty decent job with this trailer and my 23' 6000 lb travel trailer.  It will have to do for now...


Dam that's more than my half ton tow capacity!


----------



## j_sims

jlsconstruction said:


> I did it to :laughing: I was like how big is that trailer


lmao...I got suckered too...I've got a 16' trailer and thought.... Man I need to rethink my layout.:no:

Nice setup....Nice touch with the microwave,coffee maker,and fridge.. all the creature comforts.


----------



## svronthmve

Madmak said:


> I chose to run two circuits in the trailer and feed them with pigtails that I can plug extension cords in to. I used a small access panel for these cords and one for air lines so I can keep them connected and lock the trailer up tight.
> 
> I have two countertop areas inside but also two tables for outdoors. I plan on adding an awning as well but in winter it's inside the job site only.
> 
> The lumber comes and goes bit I keep a few of everything in there, saves trips to the store during the day. The MDF is heavy but the 2Xs aren't bad.












I put this on my trailer and wired into the panel inside the trailer. Allows me to use a regular extension cord, and keeps "peeping eyes" from flipping up the cover and seeing directly into my trailer.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

svronthmve said:


> View attachment 98850
> 
> 
> I put this on my trailer and wired into the panel inside the trailer. Allows me to use a regular extension cord, and keeps "peeping eyes" from flipping up the cover and seeing directly into my trailer.


That's the same type mine has.


----------



## Roofcheck

BCConstruction said:


> Dam that's more than my half ton tow capacity!


Sorry about your F1wimpy.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Roofcheck said:


> Sorry about your F1wimpy.


I know right. Crazy that SUV's have more tow capacity!


----------



## Roofcheck

I'm playing. Fords make great trucks, I just don't like them. I was so very excited to buy the 14 Silverado, that lasted three whole weeks and I'm back in a Crewmax. 

OP the trailer set up is nice, I'm standing in the line thinking the table saw was part of the trailer. 

Doing straight gutter my 12' tandem works great- fitting in carpentry tools (chop saw, table saw, compressor, ect) forget about it. The brake under the gutter machine takes up 1/3 by itself!


----------



## jlsconstruction

What was wrong with the Silverado


----------



## Madmak

svronthmve said:


> I put this on my trailer and wired into the panel inside the trailer. Allows me to use a regular extension cord, and keeps "peeping eyes" from flipping up the cover and seeing directly into my trailer.


I looked those but didn't want to give anyone the chance to unplug the trailer. It gets awful cold here in the winter and it could ruin a lot of things. With the hole only I can put a tie wrap around the cords and make sure it can't happen. They have a few different RV power inlets that would have looked better but...


----------



## mbryan

In use cover that gets locked?


----------



## Madmak

mbryan said:


> In use cover that gets locked?


Maybe? But I didn't find one that was at all flush mounted. These are flush and aluminium. I just stick regular cords inside and plug them in to pigtails. I plug the other ends inside the customer's garage or mine. Same with the air lines.


----------



## svronthmve

I have a pool in mine! :laughing:


----------



## Roofcheck

jlsconstruction said:


> What was wrong with the Silverado


Odd vibration 55-35 just decelerating. Four trip to the dealership with no real explanation and 6 lost days of 26. 

No AC ports to the back seat- my daughter (2-3/4) just sat and cried.

Mileage 20+ unloaded- dragging the trailer 65 8-9MPG.


----------



## jlsconstruction

Roofcheck said:


> Odd vibration 55-35 just decelerating. Four trip to the dealership with no real explanation and 6 lost days of 26.
> 
> No AC ports to the back seat- my daughter (2-3/4) just sat and cried.
> 
> Mileage 20+ unloaded- dragging the trailer 65 8-9MPG.


That's weird, I love my 11 Silverado, it averages about 12 mpg. Mostly city and always has a trailer on it.


----------



## Roofcheck

jlsconstruction said:


> That's weird, I love my 11 Silverado, it averages about 12 mpg. Mostly city and always has a trailer on it.


My trailer is a 6x12 tandem, loaded with gutter machine and ladders, tools, ect I'm guessing 6000 pounds. I've spent the last 350,000 driving Tundra's so...


----------



## Madmak

Couldn't resist the lure of a diesel so I ended up with a Ram 2500 Laramie CTD. Lovin' it so far!


----------



## Gary H

Madmak said:


> Couldn't resist the lure of a diesel so I ended up with a Ram 2500 Laramie CTD. Lovin' it so far!


You got snow already?


----------



## Madmak

We've had snow since late October, that's normal for around here. And it will be here till mid May!


----------



## Spencer

The front of that trailer looks super low. Don't hit a speed bump.


----------



## TheStoneGuy

Madmack you need a air suspension on the back of the truck to jack the trailer and it will be more stable to drive as well. I just did mine in Calgary and its way way better. Go to hitchexperts.ca they have 2 locations. Got mine for 620$ installed.


----------



## TheStoneGuy

amazing setup Madmak. 

I have just bought a used Well trailer in town and i need to do a setup. I need to redo the floor and the wall. I want to insulate it as well. How have you done yours ? It get so cold here... 

Where did you get those exterior boxes for the air hose and electrical, i need those ? 
and 8x4' T5 lighting ? 

What is your walls and ceiling made of btw it look really neat ? Fantastic

Perfect setup man im so jealous. Id use your help and knowledge anytime


----------



## ArtisanRemod

Nice setup. I knew when viewing the first pics a heavier truck would not be far behind. What do you figure it weighs?


----------



## VinylHanger

After looking at this trailer, which I also thought the saw was inside, I will never show mine on here. :no:

It is amazing what you did with just two more feet. With mine, I would just have two more feet to throw crap on the floor. We spent 20 minutes looking for the bolt cutters this morning. They were the only thing in the right place, which is why we couldn't find them. :laughing:


----------



## woodchuck2

You make me sick! Damn fine trailer though, nice job putting it together. Mine was never that nice to begin with but still much cleaner and organized than most. But after 5yrs here in the salt belt the body is starting to rot, ceiling has sprung a leak, brakes need replacing, both fenders have gotten smashed backing into things at night, dents in the doors from the wind trying to remove them from the hinges. Still cannot imagine working without it. My next one will be the same size but heavier built, i am overweight all the time. My plan is to buy a bucket truck this winter, this should help me lighten the load in the trailer.


----------



## Madmak

That pic was the first time hooked up to the trailer and I've adjusted the 10" drop hitch up a notch. The trailer does ride low likely because of the torsion axles, no issues though. I am looking at airbags and slightly bigger tires which will change heights again.

The RAM pulls it like a dream! Soooo worth the upgrade and I'm happy with the diesel decision. The Rambox option and tonneau is also proving very useful. 

I love working out of that trailer, so easy to find things and everything is always with me. The trailer is likely 5000+ lbs but I haven't weighed it, really should do that. 

The walls are FRP panels, floor is box liner, ceiling is just painted OSB. Walls and ceiling are insulated with 1" foam and I run a 1500W heater in there full time. Tools and supplies are always above freezing. All the supplies are from HD, Lowes, Princess Auto, etc here in Calgary. The power and air inlets are just black outlet covers without outlets behind them. The T5s are from HD, and wired through standard PVC. Husky cabinets from HD were cheap and light, the tool chest I had. 

I would be happy to show anyone if they wanted to get some ideas, just PM me. Any subs that work with me at times sure appreciate the availability of a hot lunch, coffee, and cold water!


----------



## onmywayup

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I have a question for Madmak (or anybody else, really). I just picked up my 14' v-nose yesterday and want to start getting it setup in a similar fashion this weekend. 

I'm wondering how those upper cabinets are hung securely. Are there wood studs in the walls of these trailers that you mounted them to? 

By the way, this single thread basically changed my mind from upgrading to a much larger van over to going with a truck/trailer instead. I must have this setup, and now!


----------



## woodchuck2

I worked out of a van for many yrs with my previous employer and it killed my knees. He now runs box trucks so no more crawling but now he has a climb instead. Personally i love the trailer. It can be a challenge sometimes with traffic and backing down tight twisty driveways but once on site you walk in with a small step and back out with no issues.If you have the ramp even better but watch the rain/snow for the slip-n-slide feature. I have the barn doors which i like but the wind plays hell with them.


----------



## svronthmve

woodchuck2 said:


> I worked out of a van for many yrs with my previous employer and it killed my knees. He now runs box trucks so no more crawling but now he has a climb instead. Personally i love the trailer. It can be a challenge sometimes with traffic and backing down tight twisty driveways but once on site you walk in with a small step and back out with no issues.If you have the ramp even better but watch the rain/snow for the slip-n-slide feature. I have the barn doors which i like but the wind plays hell with them.


I solved that by putting slide latches at the top and bottom of the non-dominate door. That way the only door that's loose is the one I have in my hands.


----------



## AustinDB

any chance you could swing through some scales and report back on the weight? I'm curious how much extra in weight all the goodies added. 

great job on the setup-the desk is a nice touch!


----------



## TimNJ

That is a gorgeous set up! I would not want to work in it and dirty it up.
I also wonder what the weight is. Are those 3500lb axles?


----------



## Adamsmith007

Great looking trailer. Add me to the long list of, "How the he!! did he get a table saw in their?" 

Great choice on the Cummins. That will eventually be my set up. If you're pulling anything regularly, diesel is the way to go.


----------



## TxElectrician

onmywayup said:


> Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I have a question for Madmak (or anybody else, really). I just picked up my 14' v-nose yesterday and want to start getting it setup in a similar fashion this weekend.
> 
> I'm wondering how those upper cabinets are hung securely. Are there wood studs in the walls of these trailers that you mounted them to?
> 
> By the way, this single thread basically changed my mind from upgrading to a much larger van over to going with a truck/trailer instead. I must have this setup, and now!


My trailer is framed with 1" square metal tubing. Attached 1/2 plywood to it, and attached shelves with self tapping screws. Don't know if that's the way a carpenter would do it, but it works for me.


----------



## jlsconstruction

TxElectrician said:


> My trailer is framed with 1" square metal tubing. Attached 1/2 plywood to it, and attached shelves with self tapping screws. Don't know if that's the way a carpenter would do it, but it works for me.


That's kinda how I did mine. But I self tapped 2x4s horizontally and hung my shelves and cabinets to them


----------



## renovaytor

Hi Where might I find the plug adapter to attach extension cords to my trailer. Thanks


----------



## 402joel

I used something similar on my trailer

http://http://www.marinco.com/product/15a-power-inlet-black


----------



## Xtrememtnbiker

Search "power inlet" on amazon. Lots of them on there


----------



## renovaytor

thanks....looking forward to getting back on my KHS Velvet........winter was too much like winter this year.


----------



## Irishman87

Hey everyone, I'm a newbie to the forum but a long time viewer and fan..... Just joined and I'm in the process of buying a trailer. I want power and maybe some kind of track lighting... Any ideas. Y'all have some amazing set ups and I will be swagger jacking a little bit of everything.... However BC has my vote for best. I am also new to being a business owner, but not new to the trade. Grew up in the biz and didn't take my fathers reins, instead built all I have on my own steam(blood,sweat,tears,sanity)... Any advice for a young up and coming biz owner. Ie advertising, employees, taxes, family.....ect


----------



## Irishman87

Nice


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Hey Irish welcome to the forum. You may want to break them questions up into different sub categories. Much easier for people to answer them. What trailer you thinking of getting?


----------



## Irishman87

Oh, sorry just so many questions.:laughing:I want a 6 by 10 Vnose..... Limited funds and it's only me and a helper now so it should work... Only worry I have is I want a work bench to the left and racks to the right, and I'm worried about having little to no cargo/ wiggle room after I fit it out. What do u think.


----------



## Buckeye Don

Irishman87 said:


> Oh, sorry just so many questions.:laughing:I want a 6 by 10 Vnose..... Limited funds and it's only me and a helper now so it should work... Only worry I have is I want a work bench to the left and racks to the right, and I'm worried about having little to no cargo/ wiggle room after I fit it out. What do u think.



When I went to buy a trailer, I was going to get a 6x12. The dealer showed me a 7x12 v nose. I have a work bench on the left and shelves on the right. That extra 1 ft makes a big diff. Something to consider.


----------



## jlsconstruction

Buckeye Don said:


> When I went to buy a trailer, I was going to get a 6x12. The dealer showed me a 7x12 v nose. I have a work bench on the left and shelves on the right. That extra 1 ft makes a big diff. Something to consider.


I agree, it's a huge difference. My 7x14 has 2' wide shelves on both side and 3' walk/ pile crap place. My old 6x12 had almost no room to move in it.


----------



## txgencon

I was more confused by the talk about a table since all I saw was the yellow (Dewalt?) job site table saw in about the third pic in the OP.

That IS a nice setup. I, too, would like to know how much is actually weighs.


----------



## EricBrancard

Irishman87 said:


> Oh, sorry just so many questions.:laughing:I want a 6 by 10 Vnose..... Limited funds and it's only me and a helper now so it should work... Only worry I have is I want a work bench to the left and racks to the right, and I'm worried about having little to no cargo/ wiggle room after I fit it out. What do u think.


Don't get a 6x10. Get a 7x14. You will outgrow a 6x10 before you know it and wish you went bigger from day one.


----------



## svronthmve

EricBrancard said:


> Don't get a 6x10. Get a 7x14. You will outgrow a 6x10 before you know it and wish you went bigger from day one.


With a 6' wide, you'll end up with 12" deep shelves on the one side and a 12" deep work bench on the other. You really need to keep as close to 36" width down the middle for access to everything. I don't think you'll find a 6' wide too appealing if you plan on working inside it. 

Also, unless you're only 5' tall, consider ordering one with extra headroom.

I started with a 5 x 8.5, then a 6 x 12, now a 7 x 20....

And don't worry about a v-nose. It's not going to make much/ any difference with fuel, and will only create headaches in space layout. Plus, they cost more.


----------



## txgencon

svronthmve said:


> ...And don't worry about a v-nose. It's not going to make any difference with fuel, and will only create headaches in space layout. Plus, they cost more.


Interesting. I've always thought about that. Only advantage I could see to a 14' V-nose is that perhaps 16' trim would fit.

Any other opinions, specifically about V-nose?


----------



## RobertCDF

Let's see... I'll go in order of what I bought: 6x12, 6x12, 8.5x20, 7x16, 7x16. Just sold off one of the 7x16s because I downsized. Go for a 7' bare minimum, 8'-8.5' is better. Don't go any shorter than 16' unless you never ever ever ever ever ever need 16' material. Put racks on it for your ladders, don't get a v-nose, instead build a box on the front for your cords and hoses. I'll keep the 7x16 I have for a few more years but then I'll get a 8'-8.5' x 16 and outfit it much like Ron Paulk does his box truck.


----------



## svronthmve

RobertCDF said:


> Let's see... I'll go in order of what I bought: 6x12, 6x12, 8.5x20, 7x16, 7x16. Just sold off one of the 7x16s because I downsized. Go for a 7' bare minimum, 8'-8.5' is better. Don't go any shorter than 16' unless you never ever ever ever ever ever need 16' material. Put racks on it for your ladders, don't get a v-nose, instead build a box on the front for your cords and hoses. I'll keep the 7x16 I have for a few more years but then I'll get a 8'-8.5' x 16 and outfit it much like Ron Paulk does his box truck.


This right here! :thumbup:


----------



## svronthmve

txgencon said:


> Interesting. I've always thought about that. Only advantage I could see to a 14' V-nose is that perhaps 16' trim would fit.
> 
> Any other opinions, specifically about V-nose?


Robert basically sums it up above. The only advantage to a v nose is the ability to carry a few longer pieces, but even that is limited to only a few inches in width at the center.

Otherwise, it's hard to install useful shelving on the v-nose unless it's shallow, or you want triangular shaped shelving.


----------



## Randy Bush

My 8x20 has got way to small. Remodeling in it again to gain more room. If had to do it over again would do a 8.5x 24 0r 26 also would go like 7 tall too.


----------



## jlsconstruction

I think I'll get another 14' or a 16 before going 24' or 26'


----------



## RobertCDF

jlsconstruction said:


> I think I'll get another 14' or a 16 before going 24' or 26'


That's what I'd done, the 8.5x20 was great but it was better to split things up so I bought 2 of the same 7x16's. But then I changed my mind about how I was doing things and sold off 1. I'm still in the process of dialing in exactly what I want in the trailer and what I store at home. All Festool stays in my truck or my garage, and I've taken some of the duplicates out of the trailer and store those at my place. Keeping too many spare drill bits, and hardware encourages mis-use and abuse. Guys just blow through stuff cause "There's plenty in the trailer".


----------



## Randy Bush

I work just by myself. So my trailer is my shop, my brake is on one side and work bench on the other. At this point in the game more then likely will not buy a new trailer unless really need to. I have a box van that is 16 ft work area in it. right now use it to store and cut my siding in . So between it and my trailer things work out ok . Just need to put a better hitch on the van to pull the trailer with when I need to .


----------



## txgencon

Where is the guy who has the trailer that has his brake on a long horizontal door that opens out from the side of his trailer? Did I see that here or somewhere else?


----------



## txgencon

The diagonal length of a 7x14x7 is just over 17'. Hauling a bundle of trim 12"-16" in diameter would be possible in a 14' trailer if it's laid out with that usage in mind.


----------



## Irishman87

Roofcheck said:


> You are in Georgia. Check out Lark trailers in Georgia. You used to be able to buy factory direct custom made and very competitive.


Do you know anything about diamond trailers been seeing them everywhere.


----------



## Roofcheck

txgencon said:


> The diagonal length of a 7x14x7 is just over 17'. Hauling a bundle of trim 12"-16" in diameter would be possible in a 14' trailer if it's laid out with that usage in mind.


Sure it is. Is that convenient? Not so much. 

Why so much support for the 14's when the 16's are so similarly priced? If your going to spend $5,000 why not $5,400?


----------



## txgencon

Anyone have a front mount hitch on their tow vehicle (or any vehicle you use as a "yard mule")?

Does it work well for you?


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Roofcheck said:


> Sure it is. Is that convenient? Not so much. Why so much support for the 14's when the 16's are so similarly priced? If your going to spend $5,000 why not $5,400?


Because 16's are on the limit of not being able to get into a lot of areas. I struggle with my 14 in a lot of places and the majority of places I def couldn't get a 16 into. I even designed my layout so I could back the barn doors upto walls and trees just to gain a extra couple of feet back and still be able to get to all my tools. 

Here's an example of a common issue for me. I have to remove the jack to get into drives so that I can get the hitch low enough to get the rear high enough to not gouge the drive when reversing in. It's an inch from the road there but it hits when pulling away so I have to place boards under the hitch.


----------



## txgencon

Skid wheels?

http://www.etrailer.com/Motorhome-Accessories/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979021.html


----------



## Irishman87

My uncle drove lowboys all his life and taught me a few tricks even some scrap two by fours thrown under there definitely helps


----------



## Roofcheck

BCConstruction said:


> Because 16's are on the limit of not being able to get into a lot of areas. I struggle with my 14 in a lot of places and the majority of places I def couldn't get a 16 into. I even designed my layout so I could back the barn doors upto walls and trees just to gain a extra couple of feet back and still be able to get to all my tools.
> 
> Here's an example of a common issue for me. I have to remove the jack to get into drives so that I can get the hitch low enough to get the rear high enough to not gouge the drive when reversing in. It's an inch from the road there but it hits when pulling away so I have to place boards under the hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 107599


Well as much as would like to one up your F150 with my Tundra... Our trucks are too low to begin with. I can understand behind the axles, that is a length issue.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Roofcheck said:


> Well as much as would like to one up your F150 with my Tundra... Our trucks are too low to begin with. I can understand behind the axles, that is a length issue.


Your tundra maybe but my f150 has to use a drop hitch to tow my trailer so its really too high.

The problem is the rear of my trailer is normally about an inch away from the ground on most slopes and the front about the same so adding another 2ft overall would bottom me out on most drives I pull into. reason I know this is because we have a 16 that can't get hardly anywhere around here other than interstates and main roads.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

txgencon said:


> Skid wheels? http://www.etrailer.com/Motorhome-Accessories/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979021.html


Always wondered in what situation them things work. If I used them it would bottom out my tongue up front.


----------



## builditguy

skid wheels do the job, but when they roll across a customer's driveway they will leave marks. Some customers are going to complain about white scratches running down thier driveway. 
The argument of 14' vs. 16' is no different than any other length. If you are considering a 10', why not 12'. This is where I think I screwed up buying an 18'.
The price was right. A really nice trailer for $3,000. The problem I'm finding is where to put it. When I bought it, I went over previous jobs in my head and thought 18' would be no problem. Now that I have it, problems always come up. Since July we haven't had a single job that I could park it on. I used it a couple of times because it was easier than unloading tools and re-loading into a truck. 
One time, I thought, "I'll just park on the street, no problem walking a little extra." When I got to the job site, the closest parking spot was 4 houses away. Nobody had parked there for weeks.


----------



## txgencon

Makes me wonder if some sort of pneumatic or hydraulic lift kit (that would only be used for occasional clearance issues) would be practical. Might need to also be able to raise the ball height.

I would convert from a 15' cutaway van to a 16' trailer if I could get it into my garage. Heck, the back bumper of my cutaway only clears my driveway (which slopes steeply down from the street - about a 4' elevation change in 25') by a couple of inches.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

txgencon said:


> Makes me wonder if some sort of pneumatic or hydraulic lift kit (that would only be used for occasional clearance issues) would be practical. Might need to also be able to raise the ball height. I would convert from a 15' cutaway van to a 16' trailer if I could get it into my garage. Heck, the back bumper of my cutaway only clears my driveway (which slopes steeply down from the street - about a 4' elevation change in 25') by a couple of inches.


Be nice if there was such a system. That's the problem with torsion flex axles. Silly low to the ground which is nice for getting in and out of but horrible for ground clearance.


----------



## txgencon

Low would be nice (for access) but I think I would sacrifice some of that and go with leaf spring suspension. Just cutting the 37.5" of the cutaway in half is applealing to me.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

txgencon said:


> Low would be nice (for access) but I think I would sacrifice some of that and go with leaf spring suspension. Just cutting the 37.5" of the cutaway in half is applealing to me.


Problem is the leafs ride like crap. I couldnt have have the stuff I have mounted in my trailer the way it is If I went leafs plus moving stuff in and out with the barn doors can be a pig.


----------



## txgencon

BCConstruction said:


> ..plus moving stuff in and out with the barn doors can be a pig.


So imagine what that's like with a cutaway van (with rollup door).

I guess you could go with torsion axles and just mount them with spacers to get additional ground clearance.


----------



## Randy Bush

BCConstruction said:


> Be nice if there was such a system. That's the problem with torsion flex axles. Silly low to the ground which is nice for getting in and out of but horrible for ground clearance.


Mine is a torsion axle and I don't think it rides all that low. Guy I work with has springs and our trailers ride about the same.


----------



## Randy Bush

Must be a lot different out here, but I rarely have problems parking my 20 on a job. Some times we have 2 trailers , my box van and dump trailer too. Now that takes up a lot of room.:laughing:


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

txgencon said:


> So imagine what that's like with a cutaway van (with rollup door). I guess you could go with torsion axles and just mount them with spacers to get additional ground clearance.


Yeah you won't catch me in one of them lol. Not sure that's even possible. I'm sure it could be with some work but may as well go springs if you do that.


----------



## The Coastal Craftsman

Randy Bush said:


> Must be a lot different out here, but I rarely have problems parking my 20 on a job. Some times we have 2 trailers , my box van and dump trailer too. Now that takes up a lot of room.:laughing:


Yeah living in mountain vallys ain't fun for getting into drives. One job I was at a few months back I couldn't get my trailer up there at all. Had to walk about 3 mins up a stupidly steep road to get to the house. I could only just about walk up the road it was that step.


----------

